Bernina Artista 185 User Manual

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Safety Instructions

1

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

When using an electrical machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following.

Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.

When the machine is not in use, it should be disconnected from the electricity supply by removing the plug from the outlet.

DANGER

To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1.A machine should never be left unattended when plugged in.

2.Always unplug this machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

WARNING

To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury to persons:

1.Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this machine is used by or near children and infirm persons.

2.Use machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

8.Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle, causing it to break.

9.Turn power switch to “0” when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading or changing the needle, threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot.

10.Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in this instruction manual.

11.Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

12.Do not use outdoors.

13.Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

14.Before disconnecting, turn all controls to the off (“0”) position then remove the plug from the outlet.

15.Do not unplug by pulling on the cord but grasp the plug before pulling.

16.No responsibility will be taken for any possible damage as the result of misuse of the machine.

17.This machine is provided with double insulation.

Use only identical replacement parts. See instructions for Servicing of double-insulated machines.

3.Never operate this machine if

·it has a damaged cord or plug

·it is not working properly

·it has been dropped or damaged

·it has fallen into water

Return the machine to the nearest authorized BERNINA dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

4.Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.

5.Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing needle.

6.Always use the BERNINA original stitch plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

SERVICING DOUBLEINSULATED PRODUCTS

In a double-insulated product, two systems of insulation are provided instead of grounding. No grounding means is provided on a double-insulated product nor should a means for grounding be added to the product. Servicing a double-insulated product requires extreme care and knowledge of the system and should only be done by qualified service personnel. Replacement parts for a double-insulated product must be identical to those parts in the product. A double insulated product is marked with the words “DOUBLE INSULATION” or “DOUBLE INSULATED”.

The symbol

may also be marked on the product.

7. Do not use bent needles.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS!

This sewing machine is intended for household use only.

030866.51.04_0401_a185_EN

2

“Welcome to

the BERNINA

family!”

H.P. Ueltschi

BERNINA Sewing Machine

Company

Choosing a BERNINA “Sewing and Embroidery System” is a decision which

will have a positive impact on your sewing for years to come.

Customer satisfaction has been the driving force of our family company for over

100 years and I intend to continue that tradition of delivering superb Swiss

quality, future-orientated sewing technology and unrivaled customer service.

The new BERNINA family of creative sewing machines gives you the unique

opportunity to select what you need to satisfy your sewing needs and

requirements.

As the name suggests, the “artista” range of computer sewing is pure artistry.

These machines provide unlimited scope for total sewing pleasure. They inspire

creativity and allow you to translate your ideas into practical sewing of the finest

quality.

In addition, a wide range of sewing accessories, together with sewing publications

full of practical and creative ideas, add to the joy of sewing the BERNINA way.

It gives me great pleasure to welcome you into the BERNINA family.

www.bernina.com

Fritz Gegauf Ltd · BERNINA Sewing Machines · CH-8266 Steckborn/Switzerland

030866.51.04_0401_a185_EN

Contents 3

1Safety Instructions

2Forward

4–5 Details of the machine

6–13 Setting up the machine

14–16 Stitch Summary

17 Presser feet

18 –19 Practical stitches/buttonholes

20–25 General instructions

25–31 Functions

31 Messages

32–39 Buttonholes

40–41 Alphabets/numbers

42–47 Memory

48–50 Quilt stitches/16-directional sewing/4-directional sewing

50–51 Sideways motion stitches – “Outline Designs”

52–53 Balance

54 Help

55–57 TTC (Thread tension/Tutorial/Creative Consultant)

58 smart function

59–72 Setup program

73 eco (ecological) function

73–75 Special accessories

76–78 Needles, Thread, Fabric Feed

79Cleaning and maintenance

80Troubleshooting

81–82 Glossary of terms

83–84 Index

030866.51.04_0401_a185_EN

4

Details of the machine

Details of the machine

9

7

49

8 5

2

1

Front view

Back view

 

12

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

17

 

 

 

 

 

 

16

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11

 

 

 

 

 

 

18

 

 

19

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

23

10

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

21

 

 

22

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

24

 

 

25

14

 

15

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

26

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

27

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6

28

32

 

 

3

4

 

35

37

38

36

39

29

30

31

33

34

50

030866.51.04_0401_a185_EN

Details of the machine

5

36

40

View from the left side

42

48

47

46

45

View from the right side

 

1

Bobbin cover

 

2

Stitch plate

 

3

Attachment base for special accessories

 

4

Darning ring connection

 

5

Presser foot

 

6

Needle clamp

 

7

Thread guide

 

8

Needle threader

 

9

Thread take-up cover

 

10

Thread path

 

11

Thread take-up

 

12

Bobbin pre-tension

 

13

Quick reverse button

 

41

14

F (Favorite Function) button

 

15

Automatic thread cutter

 

 

16

Screen

 

 

 

17

Bobbin winder with on/off switch and

 

 

49

 

thread cutter

 

 

 

18

Practical stitch button

 

 

 

19

Buttonhole button

 

20

Decorative stitch button

 

21

Alphabet button

 

22

External embroidery button

 

23

Quilt stitches/Directional sewing button

 

24

clr (Clear) button

 

25

mem (Memory) button

 

26

Needle stop up/down

 

27

“?” (Help) button

 

28

TTC (Thread Tension/Tutorial/ Creative

 

 

 

 

Consultant) button

 

29

Stitch width knob

 

30

Stitch length knob

 

31

Needle position

 

32

smart button

 

33

setup button

 

34

eco (Ecology) button

 

35

Free Hand System connection

 

36

Presser foot lifter (manual)

 

37

Carrying handle

 

38

Spool pins

 

39

Sewing table socket

 

40

Thread cutter

 

41

Presser foot pressure dial

 

42

Handwheel

 

43

Power switch on/off

 

44

Power plug socket

 

45

Drop feed-dog

 

46

Foot control socket

 

47

Embroidery module (special accessory)

 

 

 

 

connection

 

48

PC serial port

 

49

Lens holder

 

50

CFL-Sewing light

43

44

030866.51.04_0401_a185_EN

6

Setting up the machine

Carrying case

Carrying case

· protects from dust and dirt

· compartment for accessories

Accessories

· foot control

· instruction manual · power cable

· warranty card

· FHS presser foot lifter (Free Hand System) · seam guide for sewing table

· sewing table (attached)

· to remove the sewing table, lift slightly and remove.

To remove the case

· grasp both sides · pull up vertically

Accessory box

Standard Accessories

(can vary from country to country)

 

 

 

 

 

 

· four bobbins

 

 

 

(+ one in bobbin case)

 

 

 

· selection of 130/705 H needles

 

 

 

· seam ripper

 

A

 

 

 

· small screwdriver

 

 

 

· angular Torx key

 

 

 

· lint brush

 

 

 

· seam guide

 

 

 

· foam pad

 

 

 

· Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

 

 

 

· Overlock foot No. 2A

Storing Accessories

· Buttonhole foot with code No. 3C

· Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A

· set up the free standing accessory box by pulling both extensions out

· Zipper foot No. 4

until they click into place

· Blind stitch foot No. 5

 

 

 

The accessory box is equipped with one small and one large drawer

· Jeans foot No. 8

· Button sew-on foot No. 18

each as well as two compartments for bobbins, two compartments for

· Open embroidery foot No. 20C

coded presser feet and one compartment for non-coded presser feet.

· Sideways motion foot No. 40C

The compartments can be stored in the box (additional

· Compensation plate for sewing buttonholes

compartments and drawers are available as optional extras).

 

· insert the bobbins into the compartments provided

· height compensating tool

· to remove a bobbin, press the compartment holder A lightly

· vertical spool holder pin

· hang presser feet in the compartments provided

· three spool discs

· store the remaining accessories as shown in the picture

· oiler

Suitcase System (special accessory)

· artista data transfer CD-Rom

· CPS Installations CD-Rom

The suitcase system is specially built for your sewing and embroidery

 

computer and has integrated wheels. This allows your system to be

Important:

transported easily and elegantly.

(USA/Canada only!) Use only foot

 

 

 

 

 

 

controller type LV1/LV2 with sewing machine

 

 

 

models 185.

030866.51.04_0401_a185_EN

Setting up the machine

7

Power cable

 

 

 

 

 

Power cable

Important! (USA/Canada only)

 

 

 

 

 

· the power cable is stored in the case

This sewing machine has a polarized plug

 

 

 

 

 

· plug A into machine

(one blade wider than the other). To

 

 

 

 

 

· plug B into electrical outlet

reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug

 

 

 

 

 

Foot control cable

is intended to fit only one way into a

 

 

 

 

 

polarized outlet. If the plug does not fit

 

 

 

 

 

· plug C into machine

fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

still does not fit, contact a qualified

 

 

 

A

 

 

 

electrician to install the proper outlet. Do

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

C

 

 

 

 

 

not modify the plug in any way.

 

 

 

B

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Foot control

Sewing speed

· control the sewing speed by depressing the foot control with your toe

· raise or lower the needle by tapping on the foot control with your heel

Use only foot controller type LV1/LV2 for sewing machine model 185 (USA/Canada only)

 

 

 

Cable tidy

A

 

 

· wind the cable round the

 

 

spool

 

 

B

 

 

 

 

· insert the plug into A

 

 

 

 

When sewing

C · unwind the cable to the desired length and slip into B or C

Power switch

Power switch

The power switch is on the handwheel side of the machine 1 the machine is switched on

0 the machine is switched off

The sewing light is switched on and off within the Setup program.

Refer to the safety instructions!

Sewing table

Larger sewing surface

·the sewing table increases the sewing surface

·free arm for larger tubular items such as pant legs and waistbands

To attach

·push over the free arm and press firmly so that it engages on the fixing lug (needle and presser foot fully raised)

To remove

·pull to the left

·remove by pulling it completely from the free arm

Seam guide

·insert into the groove (underside of table) from the right

·it can be freely adjusted over the whole width of the table

Scale

·number “0” corresponds to the center needle position

FHS (Free Hand System) presser foot lifter

Raising and lowering the

automatically as soon as

operate the lifter in your

presser foot

the first stitch is sewn

normal sitting position.

· the freehand system

Attaching the presser foot

Note:

raises and lowers the

lifter

Your dealer can adjust the

presser foot

· the freehand system is

position if necessary

· push to the right with

stored in the case.

 

your knee

· insert the freehand

 

· the presser foot is raised

system into the opening

 

and the feed-dogs are

in the base plate

 

lowered and the needle

· you should be able to

 

thread tension is released

 

 

simultaneously

 

 

· the feed-dogs come up

 

 

030866.51.04_0401_a185_EN

8

Setting up the machine

Winding the bobbin

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Threading the bobbin

Winding the bobbin

· turn power switch on

· following the direction of the arrow take thread through

· place empty bobbin on

the rear guide and round the pre-tension stud

spindle

· wrap the thread around the inner bobbin two or

 

 

 

 

 

three times and cut off any excess thread on the thread

 

 

 

 

 

cutter

 

 

 

 

 

· press the engaging lever against the bobbin

 

 

 

 

 

· press the foot control

 

 

 

 

 

the motor stops automatically when the bobbin is full

 

 

 

 

 

· remove the bobbin

Thread cutter

·cut the thread on the thread cutter

Bobbin case

To remove

·raise the needle

·turn power switch to “0”

·open the bobbin cover

·grasp the latch of the bobbin case

·remove case

To insert

·hold the bobbin case latch

·the opening on the case should be at the top

·insert so that it engages

·close the bobbin cover

A

Bobbin thread cutter

·insert the bobbin case

·take thread over cutter (A)

·cut thread

Note:

For normal sewing, the bobbin thread does not have to be brought up as the loose end is just the right length to start sewing.

Warning:

If your sewing computer is equipped with an embroidery bobbin case, thread the bobbin thread in the guide spring only when the embroidery module (optional accessory) is in use.

Refer to the safety instructions!

Inserting the bobbin

Insert the bobbin so that

Pull the thread counter-

Pull the thread to the left

the thread runs clockwise.

clockwise into the slot.

under the spring until it

 

 

lies in the T-shaped slit at

 

 

the end of the spring.

The bobbin must turn clockwise when the thread is pulled.

030866.51.04_0401_a185_EN

Setting up the machine

9

Changing the needle

Removing the needle

· raise the needle

· turn power switch to “0” · lower the presser foot

· loosen the needle clamp

· pull the needle down to remove

Inserting the needle

· loosen the needle clamp, if needed · flat side of needle to the back

· insert the needle as far as it will go · tighten the needle clamp

Refer to the safety instructions!

Changing the presser foot

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Changing the presser foot

Raising the lever

 

Attaching the presser foot

Refer to the safety

· raise the needle and

· raise the clamping lever

 

· guide the foot upwards

instructions!

presser foot

· remove the presser foot

 

over the cone

 

· turn power switch to 0

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

· press the clamping lever

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

down

 

Vertical Spool Pin

Vertical spool pin

·the supplementary spool pin (vertical) is stored in the accessory box

· insert the pin from right to left in the opening

· to remove, pull to the right at the base of the spool pin · essential sewing aid when using more than one thread,

i.e. double needle, etc. or for stacked thread spools

030866.51.04_0401_a185_EN

10

Setting up the machine

Threading the upper thread

A

C

B

D

E

Attaching the thread spool

·raise the needle and presser foot

·turn the power switch to «0» (off)

·attach the foam pad

·place spool on pin (spool turns clockwise)

·attach the appropriate spool disc - diameter of spool disc is disc size. There must be no clearance between the disc and the spool

·take thread through rear guide A

·then into slit of upper thread tension

Down

· pull thread down to the right of the take-up cover to B

Up

·take thread up to the left of the cover to C in the direction of the arrow, placing it in the take-up lever

Down

· take thread down and through guides D and E

Refer to the safety instructions!

Needle Threader

 

A

 

 

 

B

 

 

Thread in hook

Lever down

Thread in front of needle

Release the lever and

· lower the presser foot

· press lever A down and

· put the thread from the

thread

· lay the thread behind

simultaneously guide the

front into the guide until

· let go of lever A and

hook B and hold lightly

thread around hook B to

it catches in the hook

thread

 

the right to the needle

 

 

Bringing up the lower thread

Bringing up the lower thread

·if bobbin thread is cut on the cutter (page 8), there is no need to bring it up

·hold the upper thread

·sew one stitch

· pull the upper thread to bring the lower thread up through the stitch plate hole

· take both threads through the slit on the presser foot to the back

· pull threads over the cutter

Note:

The bobbin thread must be brought up through the stitch plate for certain types of work. The length of thread is sufficient for most normal work if the lower thread cutter has been used.

030866.51.04_0401_a185_EN

Setting up the machine

11

A

B

A

Note:

Use of the Supplementary thread guide (special accessories), helps threads on the Vertical spool pin to wind off better without failing and slipping down the spool.

Threading the double needle

Threading the first thread

·place thread spool on horizontal spool pin

·thread by guiding the thread to the front in the slit and past the tension disc A on the right side

·thread sewing computer as usual, but at thread guide B guide the thread through on the right side and thread the right needle

Threading the second thread

·place thread spool on the vertical spool pin

·thread by guiding the thread to the front in the slit and past the tension disc A on the left side

·guide thread on the left side of the thread guide B and thread the left needle

·threads must not be twisted together

Note:

When using the supplementary spool pin (vertical) always attach the foam pad (prevents the thread from getting caught on the spool pin)

Threading the triple needle

·two thread spools and one full bobbin are needed

·place one thread spool on horizontal spool pin

·place second thread spool and the lower thread spool, separated by a spool disc, on additional spool pin (both spools have to turn in the same direction)

·thread as usual by guiding two threads on the left side of the tension disc A and the thread guide B and one thread on the right side of disc

Multiple spool holder (Optional accessory)

030866.51.04_0401_a185_EN

12

Setting up the machine

Thread cutter

Thread cutter on head frame

· pull both threads from front to back over the cutter.

· the threads release as soon as the first stitch is sewn

Stitch Plate

A

9 mm Stitch plate

Stitch plate markings

·the stitch plate is marked with vertical lines in millimeters and inches

·mm measurements are at the front

·inch measurements are at the back

·the measurements correspond to the distance from the needle to the line

A 5,5 mm Stitch plate (special accessory)

·needle insertion point is position 0 (center needle position)

·the mm/inch measurements are marked to the right and left

·the lines help to guide the fabric for sewing seams and for top stitching

·the horizontal markings are helpful for sewing corners and buttonholes, etc.

A Straight stitch plate (special accessory)

Removing the stitch plate

·turn power switch off («0»)

·raise the presser foot and needle

·press the stitch plate down at the back right corner until it flips up

Replacing the stitch plate

·place the stitch plate over the opening A and press down until it clicks into place

Feed-dog

Button under the handwheel

Button flush with base plate = feed dogs up, sewing position

· for all machine-fed sewing

Button depressed = feed dogs lowered, darning position

·for free-hand sewing (darning, freehand embroidery, freehand quilting)

·for embroidery with the Embroidery Module

030866.51.04_0401_a185_EN

Setting up the machine

13

Presser foot pressure

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dial on head frame

 

Standard pressure

 

Reduced pressure

 

Increased pressure

· the presser foot pressure

 

· for all normal sewing

 

· for jerseys and loose

 

· for sheer, slippery

 

dial is on the left of the

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

knits, quilting

 

 

lightweight fabrics,

 

head frame

 

 

 

 

 

 

· prevents fabric stretching

 

 

quilting

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

· adjust pressure so that

 

· improves fabric feed and

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

the fabric still feeds

 

 

prevents puckering

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

correctly

 

 

 

 

 

030866.51.04_0401_a185_EN

Bernina Artista 185 User Manual

14

Stitch Summary

 

Practical stitches

Buttonholes

9 mm/40 mm decorative stitches

030866.51.04_0401_a185_EN

Stitch Summary

15

Quilt stitches

16-directional sewing 4-directional sewing

Alphabets

030866.51.04_0401_a185_EN

16

Stitch Summary

030866.51.04_0401_a185_EN

Presser feet

17

Presser Feet

Note: The letter “C” after a foot number indicates the foot is coded or equipped with a sensor for 9mm stitching. When a stitch is selected with a coded foot attached to the machine, the preprogrammed width is

9 mm, rather than 5.5 mm. This letter does not always appear on the foot and in some cases does not appear on the screen in the presser foot indicator.

3A

2A

1C

2A

3C

3A

Reverse Pattern Foot

Overlock Foot

Buttonhole Foot

Automatic Buttonhole Foot

Practical and decorative

Overlock seams,

Buttonholes

Buttonholes in flat

stitches

oversewing seam edges

 

materials

 

 

 

Darning program

4

5

8

 

 

 

18

4

5

8

18

Zipper foot

Blind stitch foot

Jeans foot

Button sew-on foot

Sewing in zippers

Blind hems

Straight stitching in thick,

Sewing on buttons, hooks

 

Edge stitching

firm fabrics

and eyes

20C

40C

Open Embroidery foot

Sideways motion foot

Embroidery, applique,

with code

satin stitch seams, mono-

For all sideways motion

grams

stitches

BERNINA Specialty Presser Feet

The standard selection of presser feet covers most normal sewing requirements but we recommend the use of BERNINA specialty presser feet for specific sewing tasks such as quilting, heirloom sewing, home decorating, tailoring, etc.

They are available from your BERNINA dealer.

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18

Practical stitches

Practical stitches

1Straight stitch

All non-stretch fabrics. All straight stitch work.

2Zig-zag

Most fabric types. All simple zig-zag applications such as oversewing fine fabrics, attaching elastic, lace and appliqué.

3Vari-overlock

Primarily for fine jerseys, stretch overlock seams and hems.

4Running stitch

Most types of fabric. Mending, patching, reinforcing seams.

5Securing stitch

All types of fabric. Secures the beginning and end of seams sewn with straight stitch.

6Triple straight stitch

Reinforced seams in tough, heavy fabrics.

7Triple zig-zag

Reinforced seams in firm fabrics, visible hems and seams, decorative stitching, couching.

8Honeycomb stitch

Most types of interlock and smooth fabrics. Visible seams and hems.

9Blindstitch

Most types of fabric. Blind hems, shell edging on soft jerseys and fine fabrics, decorative seams.

10Double overlock

All types of knit. Sews and finishes the edges in one operation.

11Super stretch

Open seam in all super-stretch fabrics, such as Lycra.

12Gathering stitch

Most types of fabric. Gathering with shirring elastic. Butted seams (edge to edge).

13Stretch overlock

Medium weight knits, toweling and firm wovens. Overlock seams, flat joining seams.

14Jersey stitch

Natural, blended or synthetic fabrics and delicate knits. Visible seams and hems. Mending jersey/interlock.

15Universal stitch

Firm fabrics such as felt and leather. Flat joining seams, visible seams, attaching elastic, decorative seams.

16Sewn-out zig-zag

Oversewing woven fabrics, reinforcing edges, attaching elastic, decorative seaming.

17Lycra stitch

All two-way stretch fabrics, flat joining seams and hems, reinforced seaming on underwear.

18Stretch stitch

All stretch fabrics, open seam in sportswear.

19Reinforced overlock

Medium to heavy weight knits and toweling, overlock seams, flat joining seams.

20Knit overlock

All knits, machine or handmade. Sews and finishes edges in one operation.

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Practical stitches

19

21Basting

Basting seams, hems, etc.

22Simple darning program

Automatic darning in fine and medium weight fabrics.

23Reinforced darning program

Automatic darning in heavy weight fabrics.

24Bar tack program

Reinforcing pocket edges, belt loops etc.

25Bar tack program

Reinforcing pocket edges, belt loops etc.

26Fly stitch large

Mediumto heavyweight fabrics, reinforcing pocket edges, zippers and openings

For specific instructions on using various practical stitches, refer to the artista 185 Sewing Manual, pages 2–20.

Buttonholes

51Standard buttonhole

Fine to medium weight fabrics. Blouses, shirts, trousers, bedding, etc.

52Narrow buttonhole (heirloom sewing)

Fine to medium weight fabrics. Blouses, shirts, dresses, trousers, children’s and baby clothes, dolls’ clothes and heirloom.

53Stretch buttonhole

All stretch fabrics made from cotton, wool, silk, and synthetic fibers.

54Round buttonhole with normal bartack

For medium to heavy weight fabrics of all types. Clothing, jackets, coats, rainwear.

55Round buttonhole with horizontal bartack

For medium to heavy weight fabrics of all types. Clothes, jackets, coats, rainwear.

58Keyhole buttonhole with horizontal bartack

For firm, non stretch fabrics. Jackets, coats, leisure wear.

59Straight stitch buttonhole

For reinforcing satin stitched buttonholes, making bound buttonholes, and stitching buttonholes in leather or imitation suede.

60Button sew-on program

For buttons with 2 and 4 holes.

61Narrow zig-zag eyelet

Opening for cords and narrow ribbons/bands, decorative work.

62Straight stitch eyelet

Opening for cords and narrow ribbons.

56Keyhole buttonhole with normal bartack

Heavy weight, non-stretch fabrics. Jackets, coats, trousers, leisure wear.

57Keyhole buttonhole with pointed bartack

For non-stretch firm fabrics. Jackets, coats, leisure wear.

63Hand-look buttonhole

Lightto mediumweight woven fabrics. Blouses, dresses, leisure wear, bedding

For more information on stitching various types buttonholes, refer to the artista 185 Sewing Manual, pages 21–30.

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20

General instructions

Screen

The artista is operated with a combination of external buttons and knobs and a touch screen.

Switch machine on

· power switch to “1”

Welcome screen

· welcome

· appears for approximately 3 seconds · can be disabled in the Setup program

A B C D E

F

G

H

K J I

Practical stitch screen

·the practical stitch screen appears immediately after the welcome

·screen shows:

A – presser foot indicator B – needle stop position

C – assigned Favorite Function button

D – selected stitch and number E – stitch width (basic setting

always visible)

F– needle position (11 possibilities)

G– up/down scroll arrows

H– stitch length (basic setting always visible)

I– scroll arrow for functions

J– stitch selection by number (selected stitch is highlighted)

K– functions

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General instructions

21

On-screen stitch selection/stitch display/functions

Stitch Selection

·touch the stitch of your choice

·the stitch is highlighted

·every stitch is displayed with its number

Altering the stitch width

· turn the upper knob

·altered width is shown on the stitch width bar

·the basic setting will still be visible (shown at 3 mm)

·stitch width can be altered from 0 mm to 9 mm when using coded feet

·stitch width bar automatically shows 0–9 when using coded feet

Altering the stitch length

·turn the lower knob

·altered length is shown on the stitch length bar

·the basic setting will still be visible (shown at 3 mm)

·stitch length can be altered from 0 mm to 5 mm on most stitches

Display of selected stitch

·a graphic of the selected stitch is visible in the center of the upper portion of the screen

Altering the needle position

·press the right or left needle position button

·each press moves the needle one position to the right or left

·stitch width can be altered from 0 mm to 5.5 mm when using noncoded feet

·stitch width bar automatically shows 0–5 when using non-coded feet

·the stitch number is displayed to the top left of the stitch graphic in the center of the upper portion of the screen

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22

General instructions

Presser foot indicator

·the recommended presser foot is displayed by number

Return to basic settings

·press the external clr button

·the stitch will revert to its basic settings

Needle stop adjustment

·press the needle stop button

·arrow points down

·the machine always stops with the needle down

Functions

·touch the function of your choice

·the selected function is highlighted (a number of different functions can be selected simultaneously)

·touch the function toolbar arrow to scroll more functions

·activate another function if desired

·press needle stop button again – needle stop reverts to up (arrow points up)

·touch the toolbar arrow to scroll again

·the toolbar can be customized in the Setup program

·For more information on functions, see pages 24–31

Stitch selection

Stitches can be selected using one of the two methods listed below.

Direct selection by scrolling up/down

·touch the arrow (down)

·scroll the screen to view all stitches

·the top row disappears

·the next two rows move up

·a new row appears at the bottom

·touch the arrow (up)

·the first row of stitches appears again

Select a stitch by number

·touch the function “0–9”

·the screen changes to stitch numbers

·touch numbers to select the stitch of your choice

·the number of the selected stitch appears in the top row

·the scroll function (up/down) is used to find and view all the machine’s stitches

·use when a visual search for a particular stitch is needed

·when the desired stitch is located, touch it to select

Correct

·to correct mistakes or deselect, touch del (top right)

·the cursor moves to the left and deletes the number

·select new number

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General instructions

23

Confirm and go to next screen

·touch OK to confirm

·the screen displays the selected stitch

·the selected stitch is active (highlighted)

Back to previous screen

·touch esc

·the previous screen appears

·if the selection was not confirmed by touching OK, the stitch selected by number will be ignored

Note

If an unavailable number is entered, the screen will not react.

Simple menu selection

Practical Stitches

Buttonholes

External menu buttons

 

 

· press a button to select the desired

 

 

menu

 

 

· the first stitch, stitch program, or

 

 

stitch summary appears on the

 

 

screen

Decorative Stitches

Quilt/Directional

 

 

Stitches

 

Alphabets

Embroidery

Practical stitch button

·the practical stitch menu appears

·the straight stitch at the top left is active (highlighted)

·15 practical stitches appear on the screen

·use arrows to scroll for viewing additional stitches

Buttonhole button

·the buttonhole menu appears, including the eyelet and button sew-on programs

Decorative stitch button

·the decorative stitch menu appears

·pattern types and sizes can be selected including 9mm decorative stitches and sideways motion stitches (indicated with a cross symbol)

·touch to select the desired stitch group

·the selected stitch group appears

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24

General instructions

Alphabet button

·the alphabet menu appears

·touch to select the alphabet of your choice

Quilt stitches/Directional sewing button

·the menu of the 3 categories appears:

·quilt stitches

·16-directional sewing

·4-directional sewing

·touch to select the category of your choice

·the menu of all stitches in that category appears

Setup button

·press the external Setup button

·menu appears

·use Setup to customize your machine’s settings

·stitches and functions can be combined to form a customized menu (Personal program)

·customized menu (Personal program) can be saved

quilt stitches

16 directions

4 directions

·saved customized menu (Personal program) can be opened at any time

·customized settings can be cancelled at any time

External function buttons

clr (Clear)

·press the clr button

·stitch length, width, needle position, tension and balance will be returned to basic settings

·most functions will be deleted (see individual functions)

mem (Memory)

·press the mem button

·memory is open and appears on the screen

·the memory bar replaces the third row of stitches on the screen

·press mem button again to close

·for more information on using the memory, see pages 42–47

Smart button

·press the Smart button

·the stitch is saved with all adjustments to width/length, needle position, tension and balance

·select a new stitch, e.g. buttonholes

·press the Smart button to return to the previous screen with saved settings

·use the Smart button to toggle between stitches as you work

Setup

·press Setup

·menu appears

·use Setup to customize your machine’s settings

·stitches and functions can be combined to form a customized menu (Personal program)

·customized menu (Personal program) can be saved

·saved customized menu (Personal program) can be opened at any time

·customized settings can be cancelled at any time

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General instructions / Functions

25

Needle stop

·the default setting of the needle stop is the “up” position

·press the needle stop button

·the on-screen arrow will now point down

·the machine will now always stop with needle down

·press the needle stop button again to revert to needle stop up

“?” (Help)

·press the Help button

·touch a stitch or function

·a description of the selected stitch or function appears

TTC (Thread tension/Tutorial/Creative Consultant)

·press the button

·three menus appear on the screen

·Thread tension

·Tutorial (brief operating instructions)

·Creative Consultant (advice on fabric,needle,techniques, and thread tension)

·touch to select the desired menu

·the information selected is activated and the appropriate screen will appear

Needle position

·press the left or right needle position button

·the needle moves to the right or left as selected

·total of 11 needle positions: 5 left, 5 right, and center

Automatic thread cutter

·press the external button

·the upper and bobbin thread are cut automatically

eco (ecology) button

·press the eco button

·energy use by the machine is cut by 50%

·particularly useful for long interruptions in work

·all settings remain active; foot control is inactive

·screen saver is activated

·press the eco button again to restore the sewing machine to normal function

Quick reverse button (above needle)

·press the quick reverse button

·secure the seam beginning and end

– sews in reverse as long as button is depressed

·used to program buttonhole length

·used to program darning length

·used to switch to straight stitch securing program (Stitch no. 5)

·used to start/stop stitching with the embroidery module (special accessory)

F (Favorite function) button (above needle)

·this button can be individually programmed in Setup with a function of your choice

·selected function can be cancelled and reprogrammed at any time with another function

·personal program can be programmed into “F” button

·for more information on the Favorite function button, see page 63

On-screen functions

Fields are highlighted when functions are activated.

Activated functions can be cancelled individually by pressing a second time.

All selected functions can be cancelled simultaneously by pressing the external clr button.

Exceptions:

Needle stop Motor speed Double needle limitation These functions must always be cancelled individually.

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26 Functions

General functions

The following functions are found on various screens and programs of the artista sewing machine. They are consistently used in the same manner for specific tasks when accessing and moving between different programs.

 

Scroll up

 

Closing special applications

 

· touch one or more times

 

· touch esc

 

· screen scrolls up to show more

 

· the special application closes

 

options

 

· returns to previous screen

 

· touch the symbol continuously to

 

 

 

scroll quickly

 

 

 

Scroll down

 

OK

 

· touch one or more times

 

· touch to confirm and activate

 

· screen scrolls down to show more

 

adjustment/selection, e.g. thread

 

options

 

tension change

 

· touch the symbol continuously to

 

· programmed adjustment/selection

 

scroll quickly

 

is ready to sew

Function toolbar

The following functions are available on the artista sewing machines. Any function which can be used in the selected program will appear on the screen in the bottom row. If there are more than eight (or four memory functions), the remaining ones will be hidden and can be accessed by using the arrow in the lower right corner to scroll. When a hidden function is active, the arrow will flash.

Complete function toolbar as it appears in the practical stitch program.

Hidden functions that can be accessed by scrolling with the arrow.

Note:

The scroll arrow and the 0–9 (stitch selection by number) will remain on the screen for easy access and will never be hidden. A total of eight functions (or four memory functions) will show on-screen.

Pattern begin

·touch symbol

·the needle moves to the beginning of a stitch or stitch combination

·field is highlighted but reverts to normal after 2 seconds or after beginning to sew

·if selecting Pattern begin for a memory combination, the cursor will appear to the right of the first stitch on-screen

Applications:

·embroidery, buttonholes, working in memory

Pattern end

·touch symbol

·sewing computer stops at the end of the active single pattern or the active pattern within a combination

Securing

·touch symbol

·individual stitches will be secured at the beginning and end with

4 stitches

·securing in memory: stitch and letter combinations will be secured at the beginning and end

Applications:

·sewing individual decorative stitches

·sewing individual letters

·sewing stitch combinations and words

Motor speed 14, 12, 34, 44

·touch symbol one or more times to select speed

·selected speed is displayed

·reduces or increases the motor speed

·will sew the selected maximum speed with the foot control fully depressed

Applications:

·adjust speed for decorative sewing machine work such as freehand embroidery or freehand quilting and when more control is desired for the sewing task

·when children are sewing

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Functions 27

Long stitch

·touch symbol

·machine sews every second stitch (max. stitch length 10 mm)

·can be activated for all practical, decorative, and directional stitches except buttonholes and sideways motion stitches

·functions and stitches can be combined

·can be saved in memory

·does not operate with the embroidery module (special accessory)

Applications:

·combine with straight stitch to baste

·combine with triple straight stitch for topstitching

Stitch selection by number

·touch number symbol

·select stitch by touching the appropriate number combination

Applications:

·quick selection of individual stitches

·quick selection of sitches for memory combinations

Scroll

·touch one or more times to view more functions

Applications:

·view all available functions

·combine functions with stitches for individual motifs or in memory navigation through memory

Mirror image – up/down

·touch symbol

·machine sews selected stitch in mirror image (up/down – determined by the sewing direction)

·can be saved in memory

Applications:

·decorative stitching

·pattern combinations in memory

Pattern extend 2–5x

·touch one or more times

·the numbers 2–5 appear depending on the type of stitch selected

·the length of selected stitch will be increased by 2–5 times

·lengthened stitches can be programmed in memory

Applications:

·lengthen existing patterns without affecting the stitch density

·Function can be combined with stitches and saved in memory

Pattern repeat 1–9 x

·touch symbol one or more times to select number required

·1 = machine stops at the end of an individual stitch or stitch combination

·2–9 = machine stops at the end of a stitch or stitch combination after the number of repeats selected

Applications:

·sewing individual motifs

·combine with practical stitches and 4-directional sewing

·Sews memory contents the specified number of times

Mirror image – right/left

·touch symbol

·machine sews selected the stitch in mirror image (right/left – determined by the sewing direction)

·can be saved in memory

Applications:

·decorative stitching

·pattern combinations in memory

Continuous reverse sewing

·touch symbol

·sews the selected stitch in reverse

Application:

·darning with straight or running stitch

·decorative stitching on sleeves or trouser legs

·quilting

Half pattern

·touch symbol

·machine automatically stops at the halfway point of the stitch pattern

·when stitching is resumed, the pattern is completed and the first half of the next pattern is stitched before the machine automatically stops again

·use Single pattern to stop at the end of the second half of the stitch pattern

Application:

·turning corners

·altering decorative stitches for a new look

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28 Functions

Double needle limitation

·touch one or more times to select number from 2 to 8

·the numbers represent the distance between the needles in mm

·the stitch width will be limited automatically

·this prevents the needles from hitting the presser foot or stitch plate, avoiding needle breakage

·can be saved in memory

Applications:

·sewing pintucks

·hemming knits

·decorative stitching

Clear All

·clears all settings that were changed except those that were changed using the Setup program

·returns to default settings

·Settings affected: Continuous Reverse Long Stitch

Pattern End Securing Function

Mirror Image – up/down Mirror Image – left/right Pattern Extend

Balance Stitch Length Stitch Width

Needle Position Half Pattern

Double Needle Limitation Hemstitch Needle Limitation Needle Stop Position

Motor Speed Alphabet Size Monogram Size Stored Buttonholes Tension Function

Balance

·touch symbol to open balance screen

·correct forwards and reverse stitches

·correct sideways motion stitches

Applications:

·adapting practical and decorative stitches to various types of fabrics

·altering decorative stitches for a new look

·adapting buttonholes to different fabrics

·adapting sideways motion stitches to different fabrics

Note:

There are two additional functions, Tension and Hemstitch Needle Limitation, available for placement on the function toolbar (see Functions in Setup, page 28). These can be placed on the toolbar using the Setup program (see page 63).

Functions in Setup

The functions below are available in the Setup program of the artista sewing machine. They are sewing functions used from the sewing screens; however, they will not

show up on the toolbar at the lower edge of the screen unless specifically placed there. For more information, see pages 62–63.

Personal program

·touch symbol

·personal screen appears

Applications:

·quick method to open personal program

Tension

·will not show up on the function toolbar unless it is inserted by the user

·can be installed in the Setup program

·touch symbol to access tension screen

·tension changes affect the selected stitch only

·visual change of setting appears on the tension screen

·default setting shown by a fine line

·touch reset to return to basic settings (factory setting or values selected in Setup)

Hemstitch (wing) needle limitation

·will not show up on the function toolbar unless it is inserted by the user

·can be installed in the Setup program

·the stitch width is limited automatically

·needle position is limited to center

·prevents the needle from hitting the presser foot or stitch plate, avoiding needle breakage

Application:

·hemstitching

·decorative stitching

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Functions 29

Functions in Memory

The following functions become available along the lower portion of the screen when the external memory button is pressed to access the memory feature.

Check

·touch symbol

·memory contents are displayed

Application:

· check and correct memory contents

Delete

·touch symbol

·delete individual stitches or letters to the left of the cursor

·delete stitch combinations

Applications:

·corrections in memory

·delete complete memories

Scroll left

·touch symbol once or several times

·memory contents are scrolled backward

Scroll right

·touch symbol once or several times

·memory contents are scrolled forward

Select memory

·the opened memory bank is displayed with its number

·touch check to display the contents of the memory bank

·touch esc to close the memory bank

·leave memory: press external mem button

Applications:

·working in memory

·saving stitch combinations

Store

·touch symbol

·saves individual stitches, stitch combinations and letters

Application:

· saving programs

Edit memory contents

·touch symbol

·scroll through the memory bank and select stitch to edit

·choose from a variety of functions to change, including, Stitch length, Stitch width, Neddle position, Motor speed, Long stitch, Tension, Mirror images, Pattern Extend, and Balance

·choose to add the Securing function within a combiantion or add a Sub-divider to the memory bank

Application:

·correcting, changing memory contents

Functions in Editing

The following functions become available in the center of the screen when the edit function is selected. All functions on the toolbar (except del) will become inactive

Motor speed

·touch symbol one or more times to select speed

·selected speed is displayed

·full speed is 900 stitches per minute (unless the basic setting has been changed in the Setup program)

·reduces or increases the sewing speed 1/4 at a time (1/4, 2/4, 3/4, 4/4)

Securing function

·touch symbol

·can be inserted between stitches in the memory

when the edit function is selected and will reactivate when the edit function is closed.

Tension

·touch symbol to access tension screen

·tension changes affect the selected stitch only

·visual change of setting on tension screen

·default setting shown by a fine line

·touch reset to return to basic settings (factory setting or values selected in Setup)

Mirror image – right/left

·touch symbol

·machine sews selected stitch flipped right to left

·alteration of selected stitch is shown on-screen

Mirror image – up/down

·touch symbol

·machine sews selected stitch flipped up/down

·alteration of selected stitch is shown on-screen

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30 Functions

Memory sub-divider

·touch symbol

·the memory has up to 255 sections or banks

·each bank can be subdivided as desired

·total memory (all banks together) holds 1023 stitches

Pattern Extend 2–5x

·touch one or more times

·the numbers 2–5 appear depending on the type of stitch selected

·the length of selected stitch will be increased by 2–5 times

·the stitch density is not affected

·lengthened stitches can be programmed in memory

Balance

·touch symbol to open balance screen

·correct forwards and reverse stitches

·correct sideways motion stitches

Long stitch

·touch symbol

·machine sews every second stitch (max. stitch length 10 mm)

Letter size

·touch one or more times

·one half of field is highlighted

·the gray section visually indicates the letter size: large (9 mm) or small (6 mm)

Monogram sizes

·appears in editing in place of Letter Size function when a monogram is selected

·when monograms are selected, size 1 = 30 mm is automatically activated

·touch symbol – the middle field is activated (2 = 20 mm)

·touch symbol again – the right field is activated (3 = 15 mm)

Buttonhole program functions

The functions below appear on the function toolbar at the lower edge of the screen when any buttonhole (stitches 51–63) is selected.

Buttonhole length – direct length entry

·touch symbol to open number screen

·enter button size (diameter + thickness) in mm

Application:

·use this method if you know the size of your button

Buttonhole length – on screen measurement

·touch symbol to open measuring screen

·hold button to bottom lower left corner of screen and use the stitch width knob to measure it

·buttonhole length will be programmed with 2 mm added automatically

Application:

·simple method to determine buttonhole size

Manual buttonhole

·touch symbol

·follow procedure (4–6 steps, depending on buttonhole type)

Application:

·for individual manually sewn buttonholes

·to repair existing buttonholes

Stitch counter buttonhole

·select buttonhole

·touch symbol

·stitch counter buttonhole will be activated

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