Bernina 2500DCET Owner's Manual

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Overlocker / Serger

Instruction Manual

2500DCET

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Umschlag_GB.indd 1

 

 

10.10.2007 16:18:59 Uhr

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2500_DCE_1_englisch_neu 09.10.2007 14:32 Uhr Seite 3

Safety Instructions

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

3

 

When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following. Read all instructions before using this overlock sewing machine.

DANGER

To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1.The appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in.

2.Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

3.Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with the same type rated max.12 volts/5 watts.

11.Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

12.Do not use outdoors.

13.Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

14.To disconnect, turn all controls to the off («0») position, then remove plug from outlet.

15.Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug not the cord.

16.Basically, the machine should be disconnected from the electricity supply when not in use.

17.This appliance is provided with double insulation (except USA/CANADA). Use only identical replacement parts. See instructions for servicing of double insulated products.

WARNING

To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury to persons:

1.Do not allow this appliance to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this appliance is used by or near children.

2.Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

3.Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

4.Never operate the appliance with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.

5.Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing needle and knife.

6.Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

7.Do not use bent needles.

8.Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

9.Switch the sewing machine off («O») when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading looper, or changing presser foot and the like.

10.Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

SERVICING DOUBLEINSULATED PRODUCTS

(except USA/CANADA)

In a double-insulated product, two systems of insulation are provided instead of grounding. No grounding means is provided on a double-insulated product nor should a means for grounding be added to the product. Servicing a doubleinsulated product requires extreme care and knowledge of the system and should only be done by qualified service personnel. Replacement parts for a double-insulated product must be identical to those parts in the product. A double insulated product is marked with the words «DOUBLE INSULATION» or «DOUBLE INSULATED».

The symbol may also be marked on the product.

SAVE THESE

INSTRUCTIONS!

This overlock/cover stitch machine is intended for household use only.

2500_DCE_1_englisch_neu 10.10.2007 15:23 Uhr Seite 4

4

Dear Customer

Hanspeter Ueltschi

President

Congratulations on the purchase of your BERNINA 2500DCET overlocker. You are now

the proud owner of an overlock sewing machine which fulfills every expectation in terms

of use and quality. The unique stitch selection and pre-set tensions make sewing easier

than ever and will give you years of pleasure.

Our comprehensive instruction manual takes you step by step through the features and

handling of your new machine. We also provide you with tips and suggestions for using

the various overlock stitches, roll hem, cover and chain stitch. On the last page of the

manual, you will find a list of optional accessories and BERNINA services which provide

even more scope for getting the most out of your new overlocker.

If you require any further information about your overlocker or sewing in general, please

do not hesitate to contact your BERNINA dealer who will be delighted to help you.

We wish you happy and successful overlocking.

BERNINA INTERNATIONAL AKTIENGESELLSCHAFT

BERNINA International AG, CH-8266 Steckborn

2500_DCE_1_englisch_neu 09.10.2007 14:33 Uhr Seite 5

Contents

5

Details of the machine

Setting up the machine

Functions and general operating instructions

Needles, thread, fabric

Stitch chart and stitch selection

Threading instructions for overlock, cover/chain stitch and top & bottom cover stitch

Overlock threading

Overlock test sewing and fine tuning

Cover/chainand top & bottom cover stitch functions and general instructions

Cover stitch threading

Top & bottom cover stitch threading

Top & bottom cover stitch / Cover stitch test sewing and fine tuning

Chain stitch threading (position G)

Chain stitch test sewing and fine tuning

Converting from overlock to cover/chain stitch

Converting from cover stitch position F (4 thread cover stitch) top & bottom cover stitch (position H)

Converting from top & bottom cover stitch (position H) to cover/chain stitch position F (4 thread cover stitch)

Converting from cover/chain stitch to overlock

Overlock practical sewing, needles and threads

Cover stitch/ top & bottom cover stitch practical sewing

Chain stitch practical sewing

Maintenance

Trouble shooting

Index

Technical information

Optional Accessories

Bernina publications

6

11

14

23

24

30

31

35

38

42

48

51

53

55

57

58

59

60

61

67

70

71

72

74

76

77

78

2500_DCE_1_englisch_neu 09.10.2007 14:33 Uhr Seite 6

Details of the machine

BERNINA 2500DCET cover/chain stitch mode

6

12

13

14

25 24 23 22 11

2

1

10

9

8

7

3

4

5

6

View from the front

1Stitch selection dial

2Stitch display

3Cloth plate/free arm

4Stitch plate

5Standard presser foot with tape guide

6Cover stitch extension plate

7Needle clamp

8Sewing light

9Needle stop

10Safety control light

11Carrying handle

12Thread guide

13Thread guide support

14Support rod

15Differential feed dial

16Stitch length dial

17Handwheel

18Foot control socket

19Machine socket

20Power switch

21Looper cover

22Lower looper fine tuning (purple)

23Needle R fine tuning (brown)

24Needle C fine tuning (green)

25Needle L fine tuning (yellow)

21 16 15 20 17 19 18

BERNINA 2500DCET top & bottom cover stitch mode

26

27

28

29

30

View from the front

26Wiper fine tuning (grey)

27Thread guide

28Thread eyelet

29Feeding link guide

3330 Wiper

31 Finger guard

3232 Wiper activating lever

33 Upper knife arm screw

31

2500_DCE_1_englisch_neu 09.10.2007 14:33 Uhr Seite 7

Details of the machine

BERNINA 2500DCET overlock mode

12

13

10

9

8

7

6

5

3

4

26

27

28

29

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

View from the front

7

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1

Stitch selection dial

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2

Stitch display

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

14

3

Cloth plate/free arm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4

Stitch plate

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

25

24

23

22

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5

Standard presser foot with tape guide

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6

Knife guard

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7

Needle clamp

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2

8

Sewing light

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9

Needle stop

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1

10

Safety control light

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11

Carrying handle

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12

Thread guide

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13

Thread guide support

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

14

Support rod

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

15

Differential feed dial

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

16

Stitch length dial

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

17

Handwheel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

18

Foot control socket

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

19

Machine socket

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20

Power switch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

21

Looper cover

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

22

Lower looper fine tuning (red)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

23

Upper looper fine tuning (blue)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

24

Needle C fine tuning (green)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

25

Needle L fine tuning (yellow)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

26

Cutting width dial

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

27

Roll hem selection lever

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

28

Cutting lines

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

21

16 15 20 17 19 18

29

Waste collector

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BERNINA 2500DCET overlock mode (Detailed)

 

 

 

 

30

Wiper fine tuning (grey)

 

 

 

 

31

Thread guide

 

 

 

 

32

Thread eyelet

 

 

 

2

33

Feeding link guide

 

 

 

34

Wiper

 

 

 

 

30

 

 

 

35

Finger guard

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

36

Wiper activating lever

3 34

31

32

36

A

4

 

33

 

2500_DCE_1_englisch_neu 09.10.2007 14:33 Uhr Seite 8

Details of the machine

BERNINA 2500DCET overlock mode

8View from the back

38 Thread stand

39 Foam pad

40 Spool stabilizers

41 Spool pin

42 First thread guide

43 Presser foot pressure control

44 Presser foot lifter

45 Light switch

46 Thread cutter

47 Foot control

48 Power cord

41

40

39

38

Foot control:

Model Nr. YC-425

47 48

42

43

44

45

46

2500_DCE_1_englisch_neu 09.10.2007 14:33 Uhr Seite 9

Details of the machine

View with looper cover open

1 Threading diagram

9

72 Upper looper (blue)

3 Lower looper (red)

4 Lower looper auto-threader

15 Lower knife

26 Lower knife setscrew

7 Upper knife

38 Conversion arm

5

6

4

8

Accessories in looper cover

The most important threading and machine accessories are neatly stored in the looper cover and always to hand.

1Household needles 130/705H (2 x 70, 3 x 80)

2Small screwdriver

3Tweezers

4Brush/needle inserter

5Needle and looper threader

6Upper looper converter

2 3 1 4 6 5

2500_DCE_1_englisch_neu 09.10.2007 14:33 Uhr Seite 10

Details of the machine

Accessories

10

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1

All other accessories are stored in the accessory bag and box.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1

Spool caps

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2

Nets

 

 

 

2

3

Spare knife

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4

Bulb holder

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5

Large screwdriver

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3

6

Oiler

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7

Accessory bag

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4

 

 

 

 

 

 

8

Dust cover

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9

Deco guide

 

 

 

 

 

5

10

Seam guide right

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11

Needle set JLx2 (3x 80)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6

12

Cover stitch presser foot *

 

 

 

 

13

Cover/chain stitch extension plate

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

14

Standard foot with tape guide

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

15

Knife guard

 

 

 

 

7

 

 

 

 

 

 

9

10

8

14

 

* Cover stitch presser foot

 

Instructions for using the cover stitch presser foot

 

(compensating foot) are on page 16.

13

Cover stitch:

 

Depending on whether your machine is delivered in

 

overlock or cover stitch mode, either of the accessories

12

13, 14 or 15 will be attached to the machine.

2500_DCE_1_englisch_neu 09.10.2007 14:33 Uhr Seite 11

Setting up the machine

Attaching the foot control

2500DCET

 

Plug the foot control into the machine socket (1) on the

 

right side of the machine. Plug the power cord into the

11

machine socket (2) and into the mains socket (3).

 

Warning

This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized main socket only one way.

If the plug does not fit fully in the polarized main socket , reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified

2 1 3 electrician to install the proper polarized main socket. Do not modify the plug in any way (for USA, Canada only). For the BERNINA 2500DCET use only the foot control model YC-425 (USA, Canada).

5

4

Sewing speed

Decrease or increase the pressure on the electronic foot control for fully variable speed control.

The maximum sewing speed for:

 

Overlock stitch mode A to E

1500 s.p.m.

Cover/chain stitch mode F and G

800 s.p.m.

Top&botom cover stitch mode H

500 s.p.m.

The maximum sewing speeds are automatically set by the stitch selection dial.

Thread stand

Push the support rod firmly into the socket on the back of the machine.

Raise the support rod (4) fully, turning slightly until the positioning catches engage. Position the thread guide (5) on the thread stand so that it is parallel to the machine.

2500_DCE_1_englisch_neu 09.10.2007 14:33 Uhr Seite 12

Setting up the machine

Waste collector

Hang the waste collector onto the opening provided on the looper cover. It catches the cut-off fabric as you sew,

keeping your working area neat and tidy.

12

Thread, cones, spools

Cones or domestic spools in all sizes can be used on your

BERNINA overlocker.

Place the stabilizers on the spool pins when using thread cones.

When sewing with large industrial spools, use the stabilizers upside down, i.e. with the wider edge at the top.

Remove the stabilizers for household spools, but secure the spools with the spool holder caps, rounded side downwards.

2500_DCE_1_englisch_neu 09.10.2007 14:33 Uhr Seite 13

Setting up the machine

Placing the spool holder for the top & bottom cover stitch thread

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lift the foam pad (A), slide the guide tabs (C) of the spool

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

holder (B) into the guide of the upperside of the spool holder

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

from left to right into position (E) and press until tab (D)

 

A

13

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

clicks into the underside of rib (F).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

E

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

F

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

C

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

D

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

B

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

E

C

F

D

2500_DCE_1_englisch_neu 09.10.2007 14:33 Uhr Seite 14

Functions and general operating instructions

Power switch

The power switch is on the handwheel side of the machine in front of the machine socket.

O = OFF

I = ON

14

4

3

1

2

Light switch

The light switch is positioned on the rear left side of the machine to the left of the presser foot lifter.

1 = ON

2 = OFF

Electronics/Safety/Needle stop

Your Bernina overlocker is equipped with electronic operating and safety features.

Micro-safety switch:

When the looper cover is open, the electricity supply to the motor is automatically interrupted. The machine will not sew but the light remains on for threading etc.

Needle stop:

The Needle stop for overlock stitches (positions A to E) is generally up, i.e. when you stop sewing, the needle(s) will stop in their highest position, the ideal position for threading or changing needles. To lower the needle(s), press the Needle stop button (3).

The Needle stop for cover and chain stitch (positions F/G/H) is generally down, i.e. cover and chain stitch formations end with the needle in the fabric.

Safety control lamp:

The machine will not sew if it has not been prepared correctly. When the foot control is depressed, the safety control lamp will light up (4).

The control lamp also lights up when the presser foot is raised, when the presser foot is swung out or the looper cover is open.

Safety cut-out

If overheating should occur, the motor will cut-out after 2 seconds, after cooling down, sewing can be continued.

Note:

If you turn the stitch selection dial while sewing, the control lamp will blink and the machine will stop.

2500_DCE_1_englisch_neu 09.10.2007 14:33 Uhr Seite 15

2

1

Functions and general operating instructions

Handwheel

The handwheel turns counter-clockwise as on a household

15

sewing machine.

15

15

Looper cover

To open the looper cover, press to the right and tilt the cover towards you.

To close the cover, push it up and press lightly to the left and it will engage automatically.

Cloth plate / free-arm

The cloth plate can be removed to expose the free arm.

To remove pull to the left.

To attach press firmly to the right until it engages.

The free arm is ideal for sewing tubular items such as ribbing, trousers and sleeve hems.

Two-step presser foot lifter

The presser foot lifter is positioned on the rear of the machine above the presser foot.

To raise the presser foot, lift the presser foot lifter until it engages (1).

It can be raised again to maximum height and held in this position to provide more space between presser foot and stitch plate for bulky items. (2).

Press the lifter down to lower the presser foot.

Note: When the presser foot is raised, all the tensions are released making it easier to thread the machine.

WARNING: If sewing in top & bottom cover stitch mode, when lifting the presser foot to its highest position (2), do not use any force.

2500_DCE_1_englisch_neu 09.10.2007 14:33 Uhr Seite 16

Functions and general operating instructions

 

Swing-out presser foot

 

The swing-out foot (exclusive by BERNINA) provides easy

 

access for threading needles. It also makes it easier to change

 

the needles and insert band or elastic into the guide on the

 

foot.

 

To swing out:

16

 

· Raise the needles (Needle stop).

 

· Raise the presser foot and swing it out to the left.

 

To position for sewing:

 

· Push the foot from left to right until it engages.

 

· Lower the presser foot.

 

Note:

 

The machine will not run when the foot is swung-out.

 

An additional safety measure to prevent damage to

 

needle(s) or machine.

 

Note:

 

Cover stitch compensating foot:

 

To prevent damaging the needle points, the cover stitch

 

foot (accessory) should not be swung out.

Changing the presser foot

1

2

3

·Raise the needles (Needle stop)

·Raise the presser foot.

·Press the catch (1) to release the presser foot from the clamp (2) and remove it to the left.

To attach the foot, place it under the shaft. The groove in the shaft should line up exactly with the presser foot pin (3). Lower the shank and the presser foot engages automatically.

The cover stitch presser foot (compensating foot – accessory) is used together with the seam guide lines on the extension plate and for work where precise guiding is necessary.

The cover stitch presser foot consists of a solid centre section and two spring-loaded side sections. The indents on the centre section (1) indicate the needle positions and act as guides.

The spring-loaded side sections (2) guide the fabric and prevent sideways movement. Perfect for topstitching hems with elastic, folded edges, seams and ribbings as well as bindings or sewing on lace or elastic.

Note:

Cover stitch compensating foot: To prevent damaging the needle points, the cover stitch foot (accessory) should not be swung out.

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Functions and general operating instructions

Stitch length

Every stitch equals one complete feed-dog movement. The

17

amount of movement is determined by the selected stitch

 

length.

17

 

The stitch length is infinitely variable from 1– 4 mm and can

 

be adjusted while sewing. Simply turn the stitch length dial in

 

17

the direction desired.

 

Most overlock work is done with a basic stitch length setting of 2.5 mm (marking on the dial).

Most cover stitch work is done with a stitch length of between 3 and 4.

Cutting width

Adjusting the cutting width for overlock stitches:

Turn the dial in the direction desired. The upper knife adjusts automatically to the position of the lower knife.

The stitch width of overlock stitches is determined by the cutting width and the needle(s) in use.

Note cover/chain stitch:

Cover and chain stitches are sewn without knives. The upper knife and upper knife arm are fully raised when the machine is in cover/chain stitch mode.

Position of knife:

1

2

3

 

 

 

 

Needle C:

3 mm

4 mm

5 mm

 

 

 

 

Needle L:

5 mm

6 mm

7 mm

 

 

 

 

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Functions and general operating instructions

Cutting width

Narrower cutting width:

If the edges of fine fabrics curl when being sewn, reduce the cutting width by turning the dial to a lower number.

Wider cutting width:

18 If the loops formed on the fabric edge are too loose, increase the cutting width by turning the dial to a higher number.

Differential feed

Your BERNINA overlocker is equipped with a front (1) and a rear (2) feed dog. The two feed dogs move independently, and the distance each feed dog travels can be adjusted independently.

2 1

2

1.5

N (1)

Gathering effect

This is the most common use for differential feed and is to prevent waving or fluting in knits or puckers in fine woven fabrics.

The distance travelled by the front feed dog is greater than that of the rear feed dog.

The front feed dog pushes the amount of fabric which the rear feed dog can take up unstretched (knit) or unpuckered (fine wovens) behind the needle(s) (e.g. 1.5 and 2).

Stretching effect

The opposite effect can be produced to prevent fine nylon jerseys or closely woven fabrics from puckering.

The distance travelled by the rear feed dog is greater than that of the front feed dog.

The front feed dog holds the fabric back so that the rear feed dog can take up the fabric (slightly stretched) behind the needle(s). (e.g. 0.7).

Adjusting the differential feed

0.7Simply turn the dial in the direction desired for fully variable adjustments while sewing. Test sew.

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Functions and general operating instructions

Setting

2

1.5

N

0.7

 

 

 

 

 

Effect

Gathering effect,

Gathering effect,

Normal feed

Stretching effect,

 

flat seams

flat seams

 

pucker free seams

 

 

 

 

 

Overlock

Thick or loose

Fine to medium

Woven fabrics

Nylon jerseys,

 

knits, handknits

weight knits, e.g.

 

closely woven

 

 

sweatshirt,

 

fabrics e.g

 

 

velours, interlock

 

Charmeuse,

 

 

 

 

linings, satin, poplin.

4 thread

Thick or loose

Fine to medium

 

Knits with the grain

 

Sewing over seams

cover stitch

knits, hand-knits

weight knits

 

 

 

 

(5 thread

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

top & bottom

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

cover stitch)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3 thread

Thick or loose

Fine to medium

Knits with the grain

sewing over seams

cover stitch

knits, hand-knits

weight knits

 

 

(5 thread

 

 

 

 

top & bottom

 

 

 

 

cover stitch)

 

 

 

 

19

19

19

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Functions and general operating instructions

Presser foot pressure

20

 

1

2

The presser foot pressure ensures perfect fabric feed. It is factory adjusted to a medium setting.

Adjusting the pressure:

Push the lever in the direction desired.

HHigh pressure: For thick or stiff fabrics such as denim, tweed, linen and for sewing on elastic.

NNormal pressure: Basic setting for most normal overlock work.

LLow pressure: For light-weight or sheer fabrics such as chiffon, georgette, batiste, linings.

Note:

Seams in knitted fabrics will wave if the presser foot pressure is too high. Always set to «N» when sewing knits.

Upper knife

Raise the needle(s) to their highest position (needle stop). Open the looper cover, if sewing in overlock mode.

To raise the knife press the upper knife holder (1) to the right. Turn the knob (2) clockwise until the knife

locks (3).

To lower, press the holder to the right and turn the dial (2) counter-clockwise until it engages. The knife

engages in the cutting position.

3

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Functions and general operating instructions

L C R

1

3

2

Needle clamp

BERNINA 2500DCET needle clamp

21

There are three needle positions (L, C, R) each with its own

21

fixation screw.

 

 

 

 

 

21

 

 

 

 

 

 

Needle positions

Needles are inserted into positions L, C or R depending on the stitch selected, which produces different stitch widths.

Note:

The third needle position (R) is for cover and chain stitch applications only!

Needle L and C or Needle L

5–7 mm overlock

Needle C

3–5 mm overlock 2–3 mm roll hem

Needles L, C R

or needle L and R 5 mm cover stitch

Needles L and C

Needles C and R

2.5 mm cover stitch left or right of centre

Needles L, C, and R

5 mm top & bottom cover stitch

Needles L and C

2.5 mm top & bottom cover stitch

Needle R

Chain stitch

Note:

Remove all needle(s) not in use, and their corresponding thread(s).

Inserting needles

Needles can be inserted quickly and easily with the practical needle inserter.

To remove:

·Raise the needles (Needle stop).

·Raise the presser foot and swing out or remove.

Loosen the fixation screw and remove the needle using the inserter. Place the replacement needle, flat sides towards the back, into the hole of the needle inserter (1) and insert

the needle in the appropriate hole as far as possible into the needle clamp (2).Tighten the needle setscrew firmly (3).

Tip:

Insert the needle C first and then needle L. Needle L is slightly higher than the needle C.

Use needle R for cover and chain stitch.

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Functions and general operating instructions

Upper looper converter

 

 

Attach the upper looper converter for overlock stitches sewn

 

 

with one looper, e.g. 2 thread roll hem or 2 thread flatlock.

 

 

· Lower the needles (press Needle stop)

 

 

· Open the looper cover

 

 

 

22

 

Attach the converter (stored in looper cover) to the upper

 

1

 

looper arm (1). Insert the wire hook into the upper looper

 

 

eye from back to front (2). The upper looper has now been

2

converted, i.e. it no longer carries thread but it diverts the

lower looper thread so that loops are formed round the edge of the fabric.

Tip:

Before starting to sew, check that the upper looper is correctly positioned by first turning the handwheel a few times to form a chain.

Stitch selection lever/roll hem on the stitch plate

The selection lever for roll hem is integrated in the stitch plate. When the selection lever is pulled forward (3), the wide overlock stitch finger (4) is retracted to expose the roll hem pin (5). The fabric edge is rolled round the pin while sewing to produce a fine and decorative edge finish.

4

6 For overlock, push the selection lever back away from you (6).

5

3

For roll hem, pull the selection lever forward towards you (3).

2500_DCE_1_englisch_neu 09.10.2007 14:34 Uhr Seite 23

Needles, thread, fabric

Needles and machine

Your BERNINA overlocker is equipped with needle system 130/705 H (household needles). However for certain types of sewing, system JLx2 needles can also be used on

the BERNINA 2500DCET when sewing cover and chain stitch (Positions F and G).

It is important to purchase system 130/705H needles for overlocking and

cover stitch or JLx2 needles

23

for cover and chain stitch

 

when replacement needles

23

are required.

 

23

 

23

A

Needle and fabric

Needles must be in perfect condition. Problems can occur if needles:

Aare bent

Bare damaged or blunt

Chave hooked points

Needle and thread

 

The needle size used

 

depends on the thread. The

 

needles hould be in

B

accordance with thread used.

When sewing, the thread is fed through the long groove in the needle. If the needle is too fine, the thread does not fit into the groove and stitches will be skipped. Use

needles no. 70–90 on your BERNINA overlocker.

Thread/decorative threads

Sewing and special overlock threads are manufactured in a wide variety of types, weights and combination

fibres. It is worth investing in good quality threads for perfect sewing results.

Decorative threads specially

Cmade for overlockers (available on cones) are also becoming widely available. We recommend following basic guidelines when using special threads on your overlocker:

·Purchase threads on cones or spools which are produced exclusively for overlocking.

·When using normal spools, use the spool caps (in accessory bag).

·Only use decorative threads in the loopers. The thread must move easily and without resistance through the thread guides and looper eyes.

·The thicker the thread, the longer the stitch length (3–4).

·The thicker the thread, the looser the tensions

·Sew slowly when using decorative threads. Pull the thread chain gently to the rear when starting to sew.

·Always test sew decorative threads before starting to sew your work.

·Use the deco-guide when sewing thick or decorative threads (see page 36. )

Thread, needle, application table

Thread

Needles

Where

Application

 

 

 

 

All purpose overlock thread

70–90

Needles-, loopers-

For all overlockand cover stitch work

120/2 (polyester)

 

and wiper threads

 

 

 

 

 

Polyester-continuous filaments

 

Loopers only

Neatening edges

 

 

 

 

Woolly nylon

 

Loopers and wiper only

Soft seams in knits, rolled hems

 

 

 

 

Spun Polyester

80–90

Needles-, loopers-

Seams in all fabrics

 

 

and wiper threads

 

 

 

 

 

Embroidery/darning and

70–90

Loopers and wiper only

Neatening edges, rolled hems and

decorative threads

 

 

cover stitch applications

 

 

 

 

2500_DCE_1_englisch_neu 09.10.2007 14:34 Uhr Seite 24

Stitch formations and stitch selection

1

2

3

4

245

6

1–6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

BERNINA 2500DCET stitches

The 2500DCET sews 16 different basic stitches.

Overlock stitches are basically formed with two looper threads.

Examples:

4 thread overlock with integrated safety seam

3 thread overlock/flatlock/roll hem/narrow seam

A further selection of stitches can be sewn with one looper using the upper looper converter.

Examples:

A 3 thread super stretch

2 thread overlock/flatlock/roll hem

B

C

D

E

The BERNINA 2500DCET can be converted to cover and chain stitch. The cover stitch is 2.5/5 mm wide and is sewn with two or three needles and the lower looper (the upper looper

F is released and the upper knife and knife arm are raised).

Chain stitch is sewn with one needle and the lower looper (the upper looper is released and the upper knife and knife arm are raised).

G The top & bottom cover stitch is 2.5/5 mm wide and is sewn with two or three needles, a wiper thread along with a lower looper (the upper looper is released and the upper knife and knife arm are raised).

H Important!

Remove all needles that are not in use and their corresponding threads.

2500_DCE_1_englisch_neu 09.10.2007 14:34 Uhr Seite 25

Stitch formations and stitch selection

1

2

3

4

5

6

1–6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

 

Stitch display/stitch selection

 

 

dial

 

 

The Bernina 2500DCET is equipped with a one dial stitch

 

 

selection function. The basic tension settings for sixteen

 

 

different stitches are distributed over eight positions. The

 

 

position desired can be selected by simply turning the stitch

 

 

selection dial. An LED display indicates the selected position.

 

A

The positions A, C, D and E are adjusted for overlock stitches

 

using standard overlock thread.

 

 

 

B

The stitches on Position B are the same as position A but with

25

pre-set tensions for woolly nylon or a similar decorative

 

 

C

thread in the loopers.

Position F is pre-set for cover stitch, G for chain stitch using

 

D

all-purpose overlock thread and H for top & bottom cover

stitch.

 

E

 

 

 

 

Stitch display

 

The stitch display provides all the information you need about

F

stitches and threading.

 

G

Symbols:

Yellow line = insert needle L and thread

 

H

Green line = insert needle C and thread

 

 

Brown line = insert needle R and thread

 

Blue dot = thread the upper looper through the blue guides

 

Red dot = thread the lower looper through the red guides

 

Purple dot = thread the lower looper through the purple

 

guides

 

Small black dot = do not thread needle, remove needle

 

Attach the upper looper converter

 

(upper looper is not threaded)

 

Move stitch selection lever to overlock

 

Move stitch selection lever to roll hem

 

Raise the upper knife and upper knife arm

 

Attach the cover stitch extension plate

 

Lower the wiper and finger guard

 

Press in wiper activating lever

Bernina 2500DCET Owner's Manual

2500_DCE_1_englisch_neu 09.10.2007 14:34 Uhr Seite 26

Stitch Chart

No.

Stitch

Symbols

Stitch

Pos. Thread

Basic settings

 

 

 

width

 

 

 

1

4 thread overlock with integrated safety seam

 

5–7 mm

A

Loopers and needles:

Stitch length: 2.5

 

 

 

needles C

 

all-purpose overlock thread, polyester

Cutting width: 2

 

 

 

and L

 

thread

Differential: N - 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

(knits),

 

 

 

 

B

Loopers: woolly nylon

N –0.7 (wovens)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Needles: all-purpose overlock thread,

 

 

 

 

 

 

polyester thread

 

2

3 thread super stretch

 

5–7 mm

A

Lower looper and needles:

Stitch length: 2.5

26

 

 

needles C

 

all-purpose overlock thread, polyester

Cutting width: 1–2

 

 

 

and L

 

thread

Differential: N

 

 

 

 

B

Lower looper: woolly nylon

 

 

 

 

 

 

Needles: all-purpose overlock thread,

 

 

 

 

 

 

polyester thread

 

3

3 thread overlock

 

3–5 mm

A

Loopers and needle:

Stitch length: 2.5

 

 

 

needle C

 

all-purpose overlock thread, polyester

Cutting width: 2

 

 

 

5–7 mm

 

thread, embroidery or darning thread

Differential: N–1.5

 

 

 

needle L

 

 

(knits),

 

 

 

 

B

Loopers: woolly nylon

0.7–N (wovens)

 

 

 

 

 

or similar decorative thread

 

 

 

 

 

 

Needle: all-purpose overlock thread,

 

 

 

 

 

 

polyester thread

 

4

2 thread wrapped overlock

 

3–5 mm

A

Lower looper: woolly nylon

Stitch length: 2.5

 

 

 

needle C

 

all-purpose overlock thread, polyester thread,

Cutting width: 2

 

 

 

5–7 mm

 

embroidery and darning thread

Differential: N1.5

 

 

 

5–7 mm

 

 

(knits),

 

 

 

needle L

B

Lower looper: woolly nylon

0.7–N (wovens)

 

 

 

 

 

or similar decorative thread

 

 

 

 

 

 

Needle: all-purpose overlock thread,

 

 

 

 

 

 

polyester thread

 

5

3 thread narrow seam

 

3–5 mm

A

Loopers/needle:

Stitch length: 1.0–1.8

 

 

 

needle C

 

all-purpose overlock thread, polyester and

Cutting width: 1–2

 

 

 

 

 

rayon threads

Differential: 0.7–N

 

 

 

 

B

Loopers: woolly nylon

 

 

 

 

 

 

Needle: all-purpose overlock thread, polyester

 

 

 

 

 

 

thread

 

6

2 thread roll hem

 

1–3 mm

A

Lower looper/needle:

Stitch length: 1.0–1.8

 

 

 

needle C

 

all-purpose overlock thread, embroidery or

Cutting width: 1–2

 

 

 

 

 

darning thread, rayon thread

Differential: 0.7–N

 

 

 

 

B

Loopers: woolly nylon

 

 

 

 

 

 

Needle: all-purpose overlock thread

 

7

3 thread roll hem

 

1–3 mm

C

Upper looper: all-purpose overlock thread,

Stitch length: 1.0–1.8

 

 

 

needle C

 

woolly nylon, embroidery, darning or rayon

Cutting width: 1–2

 

 

 

 

 

thread

Differential: 0.7–N

 

 

 

 

 

Lower looper: all-purpose overlock thread,

 

 

 

 

 

 

embroidery, darning or rayon thread

 

 

 

 

 

 

Needle: all-purpose overlock thread, embroidery

 

 

 

 

 

 

or darning thread, rayon thread

 

8

3 thread flatlock

 

3–5 mm

D

Upper looper: all-purpose overlock thread,

Stitch length: min. 2.5

 

 

 

needle C

 

polyester thread, woolly nylon or similar

Cutting width: 2

 

 

 

5–7 mm

 

decorative or rayon thread

Differential: N

 

 

 

needle L

 

Lower looper, needle: all-purpose overlock

 

 

 

 

 

 

thread, polyester thread

 

9

2 thread flatlock

 

3–5 mm

E

Lower looper: all-purpose overlock thread,

Stitch length: min. 2.5

 

 

 

needle C

 

polyester thread, woolly nylon or similar

Cutting width: 2

 

 

 

5–7 mm

 

decorative or rayon thread

Differential: N

 

 

 

needle L

 

Needle: all purpose overlock thread, polyester

 

 

 

 

 

 

thread

 

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