Bernina 580 Owner's Manual

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Bernina 580 Owner's Manual

BERNINA 580

Introduction 1

Dear Bernina Customer,

Congratulations! You’ve decided on BERNINA, a reliable choice that will delight you for years to come. For over 100 years, our family has placed the highest value on satisfied customers. For myself, it is a matter of personal pride to offer you Swiss precision at the height of perfection, future-oriented sewing technology, and a comprehensive customer service.

Presenting the B 580, BERNINA launches an ultramodern sewing-/embroidery computer. Apart from the highest demand on technology, we have also focused on the design; after all we sell our products to creative people like you, who expect a high standard of best quality and appreciate the design vocabulary.

Enjoy the creative sewing and embroidery with your BERNINA 580 and find out about our varied range of accessory. Let yourself be inspired by new sewing projects and visit us at www.bernina.com.

And don’t forget to make use of service and maintenance offers from our highly trained

BERNINA dealers.

I wish you lots of pleasure and many creative hours with your new BERNINA.

H.P. Ueltschi

Owner

BERNINA International AG

CH-8266 Steckborn

www.bernina.com

4. Edition

033527.53.04_2014-07_Manual_B580_EN

2 Safety Instructions

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following:

Read all the instructions before using this sewing-/embroidery computer.

When the sewing-/embroidery computer is not in use, it should be disconnected from the electricity supply by removing the plug from the outlet.

DANGER!

To reduce the risk of electrical shock:

1.The sewing-/embroidery computer should never be left unattended when plugged in.

2.Always unplug this sewing-/embroidery computer from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

3.LED Radiation – Do not view directly with optical instruments. Class 1M LED product.

WARNING!

To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury to persons:

1.Use this sewing-/embroidery computer only for purposes as described in this manual. Use only attachments, accessories and parts recommended by the manufacturer.

2.Do not allow this sewing-/embroidery computer to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing-/embroidery computer is used by or near children and infirm persons. The sewing-/embroidery computer is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the sewing-/embroidery computer by a person responsible for their safety. To ensure children do not play with the sewing-/

embroidery computer they must be supervised.

3.Never operate this sewing-/embroidery computer if:

it has a damaged cord or plugit is not working properly

it has been dropped or damagedit has fallen into water

Return the sewing-/embroidery computer to your local authorized BERNINA dealer for examination or repair.

4.Never operate the sewing-/embroidery computer with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing-/embroide- ry computer free from the accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.

5.Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing needle.

6.Never insert any objects into any openings on the sewing-/embroidery computer.

7.Do not use the sewing-/embroidery computer outdoors.

8.Do not operate the sewing-/embroidery computer where aerosol products (sprays) or oxygen are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

9.Do not pull or push the fabric while stitching. This may deflect the needle, causing it to break.

10.Do not use bent needles.

11.Always use the original BERNINA stitch plate. The wrong stitch plate can cause needle breakage.

12.To disconnect, turn power switch to «0» (off), then remove the plug from the outlet. Do not unplug by pulling the cord, instead grasp the plug to pull it from the outlet.

13.Turn power switch to «0» (off) when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as changing the needle or the presser foot, etc.

14.Always unplug the sewing-/embroidery computer from the electrical outlet when carrying out cleaning or maintenance work or any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual.

15.This sewing-/embroidery computer is provided with double insulation (except USA and Canada). Use only identical replacement parts. See instructions for servicing of double-insu- lated products.

033527.53.04_2014-07_Manual_B580_EN

Safety Instructions 3

SERVICING DOUBLEINSULATED PRODUCTS

In a double-insulated product two systems of insulation are provided instead of grounding. No grounding means is provided on a doubleinsulated product, nor should a means for grounding be added to the product. Servicing a double-insulated product requires extreme care and knowledge of the system and should be done only by qualified service personnel. Replacement parts for a double-insulated product must be identical to the original parts in the product. A double-insulated product is marked with the words: «DOUBLE INSULATION» or «DOUBLE INSULATED».

The symbol may also be marked on the product.

DISCLAIMER

No liability will be assumed for any possible damage which arises from misuse of this sewing-/ embroidery computer.

This sewing-/embroidery computer is intended for household use only.

This sewing-/embroidery computer meets the European Standard 2004/108/EC concerning the electromagnetic tolerance.

SAVE THESE

INSTRUCTIONS!

Environmental Protection

BERNINA is committed to the protection of the environment. We strive to minimize the environmental impact of our products by continuously improving product design and our technology of manufacturing.

When your sewing computer won't be used anymore, dispose this product in an environmentally responsible way according to the national directive. Do not throw away this product with your household waste. In case of doubt, please contact your BERNINA dealer.

If the sewing computer is stored in a cold room, it should be brought to a warm room about one hour before use.

Please find the latest version of your instruction manual at www.bernina.com

033527.53.04_2014-07_Manual_B580_EN

4 Notes

Notes

033527.53.04_2014-07_Manual_B580_EN

 

Sewing - Contents

 

 

5

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sewing - Contents

 

5

 

 

 

 

 

Accessory

 

7

 

 

 

 

 

Preparation

10

 

 

 

10

██

Overview sewing computer

 

 

 

 

██

Sewing preparation

12

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Functions

26

 

Creative consultant

52

26

██

«Function»-buttons sewing computer

██

 

██

Overview Display

28

██

Help program

53

 

██

Setup Program

40

██

Balance

54

 

██

Tutorial

50

██

eco

55

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sewing stitches

56

 

BSR

94

56

██

Practical stitches

██

 

██

Buttonholes

74

██

Alphabets

99

 

██

Decorative stitches

88

██

Personal program

102

 

██

Quilt stitches

92

██

Combi mode

106

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Embroidery - Contents

 

 

 

 

111

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cleaning

 

 

 

 

158

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Troubleshooting

159

 

 

Stitch patterns

164

Motifs

171

 

 

 

 

Index

182

 

 

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6 Key to Signs

DANGER!

Very important! Risk of injury!

ATTENTION!

Very important! Risk of damage!

Tips!

Glossary

Balance

Correcting abnormalities in stitch formation due to the fabric

BERNINA USB stick Mobile storage medium

Fabric fold

Folded edge of material

BSR

BERNINA-Stitch-Regulator. Quilting with consistent stitch length within a certain speed

clr

Deleting settings or data

Hook

«Catches» the needle-thread loop, forming the stitch together with the lower thread

LMS

Length Measuring System for buttonhole

Memory

Long Term Memory

Satin stitching

Dense Zig-zag

Bartack

Buttonhole-bead cross-connections

All rights reserved

For technical and product improvement reasons, the sewing computer's features, parts and accessory are subject to unannounced changes and alterations at any time. The accessory included can differ from country to country.

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Accessory 7

Standard Accessory

̶̶ Carrier bag

̶̶ Accessories box ̶̶ Foot control

̶̶ Power cable ̶̶ Slide-on table ̶̶ Seam Guide

̶̶ Free Hand System (FHS)

 

 

 

A

5 bobbins (one of them in the bobbin case)

D

 

 

 

F

B

Selection of needles

 

 

 

C

Seam guide, right

C

 

G

D

Touch pen

 

E

Height compensation tool

E

 

 

 

 

 

F

Seam ripper

 

I

H

G

Screwdriver, red

 

 

H

Angular Torx button

B

 

 

 

 

I

Lint brush

 

 

 

J

Lubricator

 

 

J

K

3 spool discs

 

 

 

L

2 foam pads

 

K

 

 

 

A

 

L

 

 

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8 Accessory

Presser feet

1

2

3

 

4

1

No. 1C

Reverse pattern foot

 

 

 

 

 

2

No. 2A

Overlock foot

 

 

 

 

 

3

No. 3A

Automatic buttonhole foot

 

 

 

 

 

4

No. 4

with slide

 

 

 

 

 

Zipper foot

 

 

 

 

 

5

No. 5

Blindstitch foot

 

 

 

 

 

6

No. 8

Jeans foot

 

 

 

 

 

7

No. 20C

Open embroidery foot

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5

6

7

 

 

 

 

 

Visit www.bernina.com for more accessory information.

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Accessory 9

Accessory box

D

C E

G

F

A

Storing accessory

██ on the back of the box, pull both extensions out until they click into place

Storage example

The box is equipped as standard with one small A and one large B drawer as well as a compartment for bobbin holders C and presser feet D.

██

to remove a bobbin, press the compartment holder E lightly

██

buttonhole foot with slide no. 3A can be stored in the left compartment F

██

store the needle range supplied in the special compartment G

B

All rights reserved

For technical and product improvement reasons, the sewing computer's features, parts and accessory are subject to unannounced changes and alterations at any time. The accessory included can differ from country to country.

033527.53.04_2014-07_Manual_B580_EN

10 Preparation - Overview sewing computer

Front view

16

15

12

13

14

 

 

11

9

10

 

8

 

7

 

 

5

6

 

 

 

4

2

3

 

1

22

23

24

 

 

21

17

20

18

19

45

25

Detail view

10

40

42

 

 

43

 

 

39

6

4

41

44

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Preparation - Overview sewing computer 11

 

 

 

 

 

1

Bobbin cover

30

Handwheel

16

26

 

 

 

2

Stitch plate

31

Power switch On «I»/

 

 

 

3

Attachment base for

 

Off «0»

 

 

 

 

 

32

 

 

 

 

 

4

special accessories

Power plug socket

 

 

 

22

 

Presser foot

33

USB-connection

 

 

 

 

5

LED-sewing light

34

PC-connection for

 

 

 

 

 

6

Needle clamp

35

embroidery software

 

 

 

27

 

7

«Quick reverse»-button

Connection for embroidery

 

 

 

 

8

«Automatic thread cutter»-

 

module

 

 

 

 

 

36

 

23

24

 

 

28

button

Foot control socket

 

 

29

 

9

«Start/Stop»-button

37

Feed dog drop

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10

Thread guide

38

Air vents

 

 

 

 

 

11

Slide Speed Control

39

Needle threader

 

 

 

 

 

12

Thread take-up cover

40

Feed dog

 

 

 

 

 

13

«Needle stop»-button

41

Cutter for lower thread

 

 

 

 

 

14

down/up

42

Presser foot pressure

 

 

 

 

 

Programmable «Pattern

43

adjustment wheel

 

 

 

 

 

15

end-/securing»-button

Headframe fixing screw

 

 

 

 

 

Thread take-up lever

44

Thread cutter on the head

 

 

 

30

 

16

Pre-tension stud

45

frame (left)

 

 

 

 

17

Display

Slide-on table socket

 

 

 

 

 

18

«Sewing support»-buttons

46

Darning hoop connection

 

 

 

 

 

 

██ «Home»-button

47

Presser foot lifter

 

 

 

 

 

 

██ «Setup»-button

48

BSR-connection

 

 

 

 

 

 

██

«Tutorial»-button

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

██

«Creative Consultant»-

 

 

 

 

 

 

31

 

 

button

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

██ «Help»-button

 

 

 

 

 

 

32

 

██

«eco»-button

 

 

 

33

 

 

 

██ «clr»-button

 

 

 

 

 

 

19

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

«Needle position»-buttons

 

 

 

34

 

 

 

20

Stitch length knob

 

 

 

35

 

 

 

21

Stitch width knob

 

 

 

 

 

38

22

Carrying handle

 

 

 

36

 

 

23

Bobbin winder

 

 

 

 

 

 

24

Thread cutter on bobbin

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

37

 

 

 

25

winder

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Free Hand System

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

26

connection

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rear thread guide

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

27

Horizontal spool pin

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

28

Vertical spool pin

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

29

Eyelet thread guide

 

 

 

47

 

 

 

46

48

USA/Canada only: The sewing computer has a

 

45

 

polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To

2

reduce the risk of electrical shock, this plug is

 

intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If

 

 

the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the

 

 

plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified

 

 

electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not

 

 

modify the plug in any way!

 

 

 

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12 Sewing preparation

Power Switch/Power Cable

 

 

1

Power Switch

 

1

The sewing computer is switched on («I») and off («0») with the power switch.

6

2

I

the sewing computer is switched on

 

0

the sewing computer is switched off

5

 

 

2

Power plug socket

4

 

3

 

3

Foot control socket

 

 

4

Connection for embroidery module

 

 

5

PC-connection for embroidery software

 

 

6

USB-connection

Foot control

 

Before beginning to sew

 

██

unwind the cable

A

██

plug the cable in the outlet provided A

██

unwind the cable to the desired length and slip into B or C

 

 

Sewing speed control

B

 

Control the sewing speed by pressing the foot control more or less.

 

 

Adjust needle down or up

D

C

██

adjust the down/up position of the needle by sinking the heel back on the

 

foot control

 

 

 

After sewing

██

wind the cable around the reel

██

plug cable into D

USA/Canada only: Use only foot controller type LV-1 with sewing computer B 580.

Slide-on table

1

A

██

turn the handwheel (see page 11)

needle is raised

██

raise presser foot lifter 1 up

presser foot is lifted

The slide-on table increases sewing surface.

Attaching the slide-on table

██

raise the needle and presser foot

██

slide over free-arm to the right until it engages

Removing the slide-on table

██

raise the needle and presser foot

██

press button A down

██

pull slide-on table to the left

033527.53.04_2014-07_Manual_B580_EN

Sewing preparation 13

Seam Guide

██ press the release button and insert into the groove (underside of table) from left or right

Can be moved over the entire table length.

Free Hand System (FHS)

The FHS raises and lowers the presser foot.

Attaching the Free Hand System

██ insert into the opening

Raising and lowering the presser foot

██ with your knee push lever to the right

You should be able to operate the FHS with your knee in your normal sitting position.

the presser foot is raised; the feed dog is lowered simultaneously. The thread tension is released.

The feed dog is raised as soon as the first stitch is sewn.

Your dealer can adjust the FHS if necessary.

Vertical spool pin

The vertical spool pin is on the side behind the handwheel.

It is an essential aid for sewing with more than one thread, e.g. double needle work and can also be used for winding the bobbin while sewing.

██ turn the spool pin 1 as far it will go

1

██ use foam pad 2 for stability with all thread spools

2

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14 Sewing preparation

Winding a bobbin

██

██

turn power switch to «I» (on) place empty bobbin on spindle

A

██

██

██

██

██

██

place foam pad on the spool pin place thread on the spool pin attach appropriate spool disc

following the direction of the arrow, take the thread through the rear guide and round the pre-tension stud

wind the thread two to three times around the empty bobbin cut off any excess thread on the thread cutter A

 

 

Appropriate spool disc

 

 

Diameter of thread spool determines disc size. There must be no

 

 

gap between the disc and the spool.

 

██

push engaging lever A against bobbin

 

the winder works automatically

 

the Display to wind the bobbin is opened

 

██

move the round knob in the Display to the left/right or

A

██

turn the stitch width knob (see page 10)

 

the winding speed is altered

 

the motor will stop automatically when the bobbin is full

 

the Display is closed

 

██

remove bobbin and

 

██

pull the thread over thread cutter A to cut it

B

Bobbin winding while sewing

 

██

attach foam pad on the vertical spool pin B

 

██

place thread on the vertical spool pin

C

██

following the direction of the arrow, take the thread through the thread

 

 

guide C and

 

██

guide around the pre-tension stud

Then proceed as mentioned above.

It is recommended to reduce the winding speed when winding from the vertical spool pin.

033527.53.04_2014-07_Manual_B580_EN

Sewing preparation 15

Inserting a bobbin/Threading lower thread

A

██

██

insert the bobbin so that the thread runs clockwise A

pull the thread from the right into the slot

 

 

 

██

pull the thread to the left under the spring

 

 

 

██

until it lies in the T-shaped slit at the end of the spring

 

 

 

██

pull the thread

 

 

 

the bobbin must turn clockwise

 

 

 

 

 

Exchanging bobbin case

Removing the bobbin case

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

██

raise the needle

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

██

turn power switch to «0» (off)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

██

open bobbin cover

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

██

grasp the latch of the bobbin case

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

██

remove the bobbin case

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Inserting the bobbin case

██

hold the bobbin case latch

Opening of the bobbin case points up.

██

insert the case so that it clicks into place

Bobbin thread cutter

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A

██

pull the thread over thread cutter A to cut it

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

██

close the cover

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

033527.53.04_2014-07_Manual_B580_EN

16 Sewing preparation

Threading the upper thread

██

██

██

██

██

██

██

A

B

raise the needle and presser foot turn power switch to «0» (off) place foam pad on the spool pin

place spool on pin so that the thread unwinds clockwise attach appropriate spool disc

take thread through rear guide A then into slit of upper thread tension B

D

 

 

E

C

 

 

 

E

C

 

F

 

F

 

 

██

██

██

██

pull thread down to the right of the take-up cover and around C take thread up to the left of the cover and around D, placing it in the take-up lever

take thread down and through guides E and F thread the needle (see page 18)

Appropriate spool disc

Diameter of thread spool determines disc size. There must be no gap between the disc and the spool.

Changing the needle

Removing the needle

██

raise the needle

██

lower or remove presser foot (see page 18)

██

turn power switch to «0» (off)

██

loosen the needle clamp screw

██

pull the needle down to remove

Inserting the needle

██

flat side of needle to the back

██

insert the needle as far as it will go

██

tighten needle clamp screw

033527.53.04_2014-07_Manual_B580_EN

██
██
██
██
██
██
██
██
██
██
██
██
██
██
██
██
██
██
██
██
██
██
██

Threading the double needle

B

D

 

C

A

 

E

Threading the triple needle

3

4

2 1

Sewing preparation 17

Threading the first thread

turn power switch to «0» (off) insert double needle

raise the needle and presser foot place foam pad on the spool pin

place thread spool C on horizontal spool pin attach appropriate spool disc

take thread through rear guide B

guide the thread to the front in the slit and past the tension disc A on the right side

guide the thread to the needle as usual and thread the right needle manually

Threading the second thread

place foam pad on vertical spool pin

place the second thread spool D on the vertical spool pin take thread through rear guide B

guide the thread to the front in the slit and past the tension disc A on the left side

guide the thread to the needle as usual and thread the left needle manually

Threads E must not be twisted together.

When using the vertical spool pin, always add a foam pad. This prevents the thread from twisting around the spool pin.

Two thread spools and one full bobbin are needed. insert triple needle

place one thread spool 1 on horizontal spool pin

place second thread spool 3 and the bobbin 2, separated by a spool disc, on vertical spool pin (both spools must to turn in the same direction)

thread as usual and

guide two threads on the left side of the tension disc 4 and one thread past the right side

guide threads to the needle as usual and thread every needle manually

By using the additional eyelet for metallic and silk threads (optional accessory) the thread release from the stacked spool/bobbin can be enhanced.

033527.53.04_2014-07_Manual_B580_EN

18 Sewing preparation

Thread needle

A

B

C

Position the needle by pressing the foot control once (1 stitch).

██

raise the needle

██

lower the presser foot

██

turn power switch to «0» (off)

██

hold thread to the left and back

██

press lever A down and hold it

██

guide thread around the hook B to the right in front of the needle

██

put the thread from the front into the guide C until it catches in the wire

 

hook

 

██

release lever A

 

needle is threaded

A

██

pull the thread to the back and

 

D

 

██ put the thread under the foot and pull it from front to back over the thread cutter on left side of the head frame D, cut

Threads release automatically as soon as the first stitch is sewn.

Changing the presser foot

Removing the presser foot

██

raise the needle and presser foot

██

turn power switch to «0» (off)

██

██

raise the clamping lever remove the presser foot

Attaching the presser foot

 

 

 

██

guide the presser foot upwards over the cone

 

 

 

██

press the clamping lever down

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Sewing preparation 19

Stitch plate

A

B

Markings on the stitch plate

̶̶ the stitch plate is marked with vertical, horizontal and diagonal lines in mm and inches

̶̶ the lines help to guide the fabric for sewing seams and precise topstitching, etc.

̶̶ the horizontal markings are helpful for sewing corners and buttonholes, etc. ̶̶ the diagonal markings are useful for quilting

̶̶ needle insertion point is position «0» (center needle position)

̶̶ the vertical measurements correspond to the distance between the needle and the line

̶̶ measurements are marked to the right and to the left of center needle position

Removing the stitch plate

██

press «Feed dog»-button (see page 11)

the feed dog is lowered

██

turn power switch to «0» (off)

██

remove presser foot and needle

██

press the stitch plate down at the right back corner A until it flips up

██

remove the stitch plate

Replacing the stitch plate

██

place the stitch plate over the opening B

██

press down until it clicks into place

██

press «Feed dog»-button

the feed dog is raised as soon as the first stitch is sewn

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20 Sewing preparation

Thread tension

Higher upper thread tension = the upper thread is tightened, which pulls the lower thread up to the topside of fabric.

Lower upper thread tension = the upper thread is loosened, which enables it to be pulled to the backside of the fabric.

Basic settings are applied automatically when a stitch pattern or program is selected.

The upper thread tension is set optimally at the BERNINA factory and the sewing computer has been tested. Metrosene-/Seralon thread size 100/2 (Company Mettler, Switzerland) is used for upper and lower thread.

In case of using other types of sewing or embroidery threads, the optimal tension may vary. Therefore it may be necessary to adjust the upper thread tension according to the fabric and the desired stitch pattern.

██

██

touch «i»-icon

touch «Upper thread tension»-icon

Changing the upper thread tension

the optimal stitch formation (stitch formation in the fabric) is visible

the white bar within the scale and the number in the icon show the basic

 

setting

██

touch arrow icon up/down or

██

turn stitch width or stitch length knob to the left or to the right or

██

move the round knob in the Display using the finger or the touch pen

upper thread tension is tightened or loosened

the alteration of the upper thread tension is visible within the scale (yellow)

and in the yellow-framed icon

basic setting remains visible (white)

the alteration of the upper thread tension only affects the selected stitch

██

touch «Back»-icon

the setting is saved and the Display closes

Reset settings

██

touch the yellow-framed icon

basic setting is reset

██

switch off the sewing computer

any alterations are deleted

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Sewing preparation 21

Adjusting presser foot pressure

The presser foot pressure is adjusted by the presser foot pressure adjustment wheel A on the left side of the headframe.

A

Pressor foot pressure

 

Basic setting = 46

Increasing the presser foot pressure

̶̶ for sturdy material e.g. denim ̶̶ improves the fabric feed

Reducing pressor foot pressure

̶̶

for jersey fabrics and loose knits

̶̶

to prevent fabric from stretching

██

adjust pressure so that the fabrics feeds correctly

██

██

touch «i»-icon

touch «Pressor foot pessure»-icon

Display pressor foot pressure

opens the «Pressor foot pressure»-display

alterations of the pressor foot pressure are visible within the scale (yellow) and in the yellow-framed icon

basic setting remains visible (white)

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22 Sewing preparation

Feed dog

Feed dog lowered/ready to sew

A

«Feed dog»-button A flush with housing. feed dog is ready to sew

«Feed dog»-button A pressed. feed dog is lowered

For free-motion sewing (darning, embroidery, quilting, etc.).

Feed Dog and Fabric Feed

With each stitch the feed dog moves forward by one step. The length of this step is determined by the stitch length selected.

With an extremely short stitch length, the steps are also very short. The fabric moves away from the foot quite slowly, even at full sewing speed. e.g. buttonholes, satin stitch and decorative stitches are all sewn with a very short stitch length.

Let the fabric feed evenly.

ATTENTION!

Pulling, pushing or holding back the fabric can result in damages of the needle and stitch plate.

Pulling, pushing or holding back the fabric will result in uneven stitches.

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Sewing preparation 23

Important facts about thread and needle

Thread

The thread is chosen accordingly to the purpose. For a perfect sewing result, thread and fabric quality play an important role. It is recommended to use quality brands.

Cotton threads

̶̶ cotton threads have the advantage of being a natural fiber and therefore are especially suitable for sewing cotton fabrics

̶̶ if cotton thread is mercerized, it has a slight sheen that is not lost with washing

Polyester threads

̶̶ polyester thread has a high tensile strength and is particularly colorfast

̶̶ polyester threads are more flexible and are recommended where a strong and elastic seam is required

Rayon threads

̶̶ rayon threads are made of natural fibers and have a brilliant sheen ̶̶ rayon threads are suitable for decorative stitches and achieve a more

beautiful effect

Needle, thread and material

ATTENTION!

Check the needle condition.

As a guide: Replace the needle before starting a new sewing project. A defective needle does not only damage the sewing project but also the sewing computer.

Care must be taken when choosing needle and thread.

The correct needle size depends on the selected thread and fabric. The fabric weight and type determine the thread weight, needle size and point form.

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24 Sewing preparation

Needles, threads

2

1

5

3

4

Correct needle/Thread combination

When sewing, the thread should travel smoothly down the long groove on the front of the needle.

Too thin thread or too thick needle

The thread has too much clearance in the long groove. Skipped stitches and damage to the thread can occur.

Too thick thread or too fine needle

The thread rubs on the edges of the long groove and can get jammed. This can cause thread breakage.

Guidelines

Needle size

Material and thread

Light weight materials:

70-75

Fine thread (darning thread, embroidery thread)

Medium weight materials:

80-90

Sewing thread

Heavy weight materials:

100, 110, 120

Sewing thread (quilting thread, topstitching)

130/705 H-S/70

1130 Shank length

2705 Flat shank

3H Needle scarf

4S Needle point (here e.g. medium ball point)

570 Needle size (shank diameter)

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Sewing preparation 25

Overview needles

Universal

 

Metafil

130/705 H/60-100

 

130/705 H-MET/75-80 or H-SUK/90-100

Normal point, slightly rounded

 

Large eye

 

For nearly all natural and synthetic

 

Sewing with metallic threads

fabrics (woven and knitted)

 

 

Jersey/Stretch

 

Cordonnet (Topstitching)

130/705 H-S, H-SES, H-SUK/70-90

 

130/705 H-N/80-100

Ball point

 

Small ball point, long eye

 

Jersey, knit and stretch material

 

Topstitching with thick thread

Leather

Wing needle (Hemstitch needle)

130/705 H-LL, H-LR/90-100

130/705 HO/100-120

With cutting point

Wide needle (wing)

All types of leather, synthetic leather,

Hemstitching

plastic, sheeting

 

Jeans

Double wing needle

130/705 H-J/80-110

130/705 H-ZWI-HO/100

Very fine sharp point

 

Heavy weight fabrics such as jeans,

For special effects with hemstitch

canvas, overalls

embroidery

Microtex

Double needle

130/705 H-M/60-90

130/705 H-ZWI/70-100

Especially fine sharp point

Needle distance:

 

1.0/1.6/2.0/2.5/3.0/4.0/6.0/8.0

Mircro fiber fabrics and silk

Visible hems in stretch fabrics, pintucks,

 

decorative sewing

Quilting

Triple needle

130/705 H-Q/75-90

130/705 H-DRI/80

Fine sharp point

Needle distance: 3.0

Straight and topstitching

Visible hems in stretch fabrics;

 

Decorative sewing

Embroidery

130/705 H-SUK/70-90 Large eye, slight ball point

Embroidery on all natural and synthetic fabrics

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26 Functions - «Function»-buttons sewing computer

Overview «Function»-buttons sewing computer

«Quick reverse»-button

̶̶ secures the seam beginning and end: sews in reverse as long as the button is pressed

̶̶ used to program the buttonhole length ̶̶ used to program the darning length

̶̶ used to determine end of stitching in straight stitch Securing stitch No. 5

̶̶ used for securing in Quilters securing program No. 1324

«Start/Stop»-button

̶̶ starts and stops the sewing computer when operating it with or without foot control

̶̶ starts and stops the BSR-Function if the BSR foot is attached and activated

«Automatic thread cutter»-button

̶̶ upper and lower threads are automatically cut ̶̶ 2-6 securing stitches can be programmed in

the setup program. These are sewn before the thread is cut

Speed control

̶̶ sewing-/embroidery speed is infinitely variable with the slide

«Needle stop»-button

██ touch button

the needle is raised or lowered in the same way as by sinking the heel back on the foot control

Programmable «Pattern end/Securing»-button

██

touch button before the sewing starts or

during sewing

single pattern is secured at the end, with the

 

selected number of stitches programmed

██

touch button before the sewing starts or

during sewing of a combination

the combination is secured at the end, with

 

the selected number of stitches programmed

██

the number and type of the securing stitches

 

can be programmed in the setup program

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«Function»-buttons sewing computer 27

«Needle position»-buttons

██

press the left button

needle moves to the left

██

press the right button

needle moves to the right

██

keep button pressed

quick change

̶̶

total of 11 needle positions (5 left, 5 right,

 

1 center)

Stitch width and Stitch length Knobs (Multifunction)

̶̶ to adjust stitch width or stitch length ̶̶ to alter thread tension

̶̶ to set the buttonhole slit width or the button size

̶̶ to adjust the balance

̶̶ various alterations in the setup program ̶̶ various alterations when embroidering

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28 Overview Display

Overview Main Display

System settings

A Home

B Setup Program

C Tutorial

D Creative consultant

E Help

F ECO

G Deleting settings

A B C D E F G

H

Menu Selection

H

Practical stitches

I

I

Decorative stitches

J

Alphabets

 

K

Buttonholes

J

L

Personal program/Memory

M Stitch selection by number

K

L

M

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Overview Display 29

Selection

NSingle and combi mode

OScroll up/down

N O

Stitch Pattern selection

P Stitch pattern selections

P

Stitch Pattern Display

QDisplay of the stitch pattern selected

RInformation

R

Q

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