Bernina Artista 170 User Manual

	MASTERING
		BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180
	YOUR
	BERNINA®

MASTERING YOUR

BERNINA®

artista 170 QPE/180

OWNER’S WORKBOOK

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 1/10/02

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	MASTERING
		BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180
	YOUR
	BERNINA®

Table of Contents

SECTION A	Pages 3-16
Care and Feeding of Your Machine
SECTION B	Pages 17-36
Let’s Start WIth The Basics
SECTION C	Pages 37-59
On The Edge
SECTION D	Pages 60-74
Gather It Up and Tuck It Down
SECTION E	Pages 75-91
Miscellaneous Magic
SECTION F	Pages 92-99
Creative Sewing
SECTION G	Pages 100-111
Programming Pizzazz
SECTION H	Pages 112-121
Fabulous Features
SECTION G	Pages 122-131

Decorative Directions (180 only)

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	YOUR
	BERNINA®

MASTERING YOUR

BERNINA®

artista 170 QPE/180

OWNER’S WORKBOOK

Section A

Care and Feeding of Your Machine

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SECTION A

Care and Feeding of Your Machine

Machine Set Up	Threading the Upper Thread
Owner’s manual pg.____	Owner’s manual pg.____
• Cover/Storage of foot control, FHS bar, etc.	• Spool pins and discs – Owner’s manual pg.____
• Accessory storage – how box slides on & opens	- vertical spool pin for stacked and decorative
• Attach foot control; note storage of cords	threads
• Power switch – Owner’s manual pg____	- horizontal spool pin for crosswound threads
• Light - on/off function (in setup) – Owner’s	- use disc closest to diameter of the spool
manual pg____	• Optional supplementary thread guide
• Extension table + sliding guide	• Optional BERNINA® thread stand
• Presser foot lifter	• Thread machine with the presser foot up until
- acts as a “third hand”	ready to thread the needle
- extra 2mm of presser foot lift	Threading the Needle
- drops feed dog to give extra space between
presser foot and feed dog	• Needle threader – Owner’s manual pg.____
- speeds sewing by 20%	• Side thread cutter – Owner’s manual pg.____
- alternate size available for use with a sewing	• After the needle is threaded, put the thread
machine cabinet	under the presser foot
	• Lower the presser foot
Presser Feet	• Insert the thread into the cutter; it is cut to the
Owner’s manual pgs.____	proper length to begin sewing
• Importance of using the correct foot	Needle Stop Adjustment
• On-screen indicator
• Overview of included presser feet	• With the foot control – Owner’s manual pg.___
	• With the Needle Stop Up/Down function –
Feed Dog	Owner’s manual pg.___
Owner’s manual pg. ____	Needle Positions
Threads	Owner’s manual pg. ____
Owner’s manual pg. ____	• Eleven positions
• Types of thread	Practical/Decorative Stitches
• Uses for each type of thread
	Owner’s manual pgs.____
Needles	• Stitches programmed in the machine
Owner’s manual pg.____	• Stitches available from CPS software
	• Uses for the stitches – Owner’s manual pgs.____
Bobbins	• How to select stitches – Owner’s manual pgs.____
Owner’s manual pg.____	- touch screen
• Removing the bobbin case	- scroll arrows
• Winding a bobbin	- selection by stitch number
• Use bobbin thread cutter	- external buttons for stitch groups
• Quick start bobbin – use thread cutter located in
the bobbin area
• Clip the thread close to the case before
removing the bobbin
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Straight Stitching

•Seam measuring – stitch plate marks – Owner’s manual pg.____

-the following measurements are indicated on the stitch plate: ¼”, 3/8”, ½”, 5/8”, ¾”, and 1”

-the line just behind the needle is 4mm

-the horizontal lines to the far back and the line in front of the needle are 5/8” from needle

•Quilting/seam guide is included with the machine

•Left seam guide and seam guides with rulers are available as optional accessories

•Straight stitch throat plate available

•5.5mm throat plate available for 180

Basting

Owner’s manual pgs.____

•Loosening the top tension helps in the removal of stitches.

•Using the maximum stitch length gives a 1” stitch.

Topstitching/Edgestitching

Owner’s manual pgs.____

•Machine sews every second stitch when the Long Stitch function is activated; stitch length is 10mm when using the maximum stitch length.

Securing Stitches

Owner’s manual pgs.____

•Options

•Stitch

•Functions

Satin Stitches

•Tension adjustments

-Function icon - must be placed on the function bars (artista 180 only)

-TTC button (artista 180 only)

-Creative Consultant (artista 180 only)

-Setup function (artista 180 only)

-Thread bobbin case finger to adjust tension (artista 170 QPE only)

•Can taper while sewing

•Stabilizer – important to the success of stitches

Altering Stitches

Owner’s manual pg.____

Restoring Basic Settings

Owner’s manual pg.____

Presser Foot Pressure

Owner’s manual pg.____

Speed Controls

•Three ways to control – Owner’s manual pg.___

-function box in Setup

-function box on the screen

-½ stitch at a time by tapping the back of the foot control

Changing the Light Bulb

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Use only 12V 5W. W 2.1 x 9.5d bulbs

Cleaning the Feed Dog

•Periodically remove thread fluff and fabric fuzz which collects under the stitch plate. Refer to manual for step-by-step instructions (pg.___).

Cleaning and Lubricating the Hook

•Low mass hook system does not require lubrication

•See Owner’s manual page ____ for step-by-step cleaning instructions

Cleaning the Screen

• Wipe only with a damp cloth

Cleaning the Outside of the Machine

• Wipe with damp cloth. If needed, use a solution of water and a few drops of liquid soap.

IMPORTANT: Never use oil, alcohol, or solvents of any kind on any part of the external surface of the machine.

Here’s an idea...

Use your birthday month as a reminder to have your BERNINA® machine serviced. Take it to an authorized BERNINA® technician during the month of your birthday and you’ll never have to remember

when it was last serviced.

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		THREADS

Poor quality or the wrong type of thread can cause poor stitches on any machine. Thread passes through the eye of the needle approximately 37 times in a “see-saw” action before it forms a single stitch. Poor quality thread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered seams, frayed thread, and/or needle breakage. To achieve quality stitches, a sewing machine needs three things: correct thread, correct size needle, and properly adjusted thread tensions.

Several factors such as the fiber, twist, ply, finish, and size of thread must be considered for use with today’s fabrics for fine stitches.

Staple – refers to the length of fibers used to twist together to form a single ply. Domestic thread fiber lengths are usually 1½” to 2½” long while European threads use 5½” to 6½” lengths.

Ply – the number of single strands twisted together to make a single thread.

Roll – the tendency of thread to roll to the right or left during stitching, causing the stitch to appearslightly crooked. Poor quality threads are more likely to roll.

Twist – the crimping of fibers which causes them to interlock firmly into a single ply. Thread should not untwist during stitching. This will cause skipped stitches, thread breakage, crooked stitches, and weak spots in seams.

Right twist – most American threads are twisted to the right, causing some rolling. This gives average stitch quality.

Left twist – Most commercial and imported threads are twisted to the left, giving better than average stitch quality. Left twist resists rolling and makes a larger loop for the hook point to enter, reducing skipped stitches.

Wearable art embellishment has necessitated the creation and marketing of many new thread types, such as Sulky’s rayons and metallics. Made in West Germany, these are left twist threads; Mettler and Isacord threads are also left twist. To test the twist of a thread: while holding the spool in the left hand, roll the strand of thread towards you with one thumb. Left twist will tighten, right twist will loosen.

Fiber – refers to the typ eof material used to produce the thread. Some commonly used threads:

•Polyester 2 ply – such as Metrosene 100. Good for clothing construction on man-made, natural or blended fabrics. Will tolerate heat up to 450° Fahrenheit. Also Isacord embroidery thread – excellent for embroidery, very abrasion resistant.

•Polyester 3 ply cordonnet – topstitching or buttonhole twist – such as Mettler 30/3.

•Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 60/2 – excellent for French Machine Sewing, delicate machine embroidery, and darning.

•Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 30/2 – loose twist for a soft, shiny look in machine embroidery, applique, and buttonholes.

•Cotton 3 ply – such as Mettler 50/3 – excellent for clothing construction on natural fibers. Tighter twist than embroidery cotton thread and less puckering on problem fabrics. Cotton thread stretches less than polyester.

•Rayon – a lustrous embroidery thread. Weaker than cotton, it is used for decorative work only.

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NEEDLES

Along with thread, needles are very important to stitch formation. Many “mechanical” problems and damage to fabrics can be traced to a bent, damages, or incorrect size or type needle. Approximately 60% of all needles made are discarded at some stage of production. When selecting the correct needle for any sewing project, three things must be considered:

Needle system – 130/705H

Needle point – to assure stitch formation and avoid fabric damage

Needle size – small size for lightweight fabrics; larger needle for heavier fabrics

If the needle is:

Too small – the thread can’t stay in the groove to form a loop to be picked up by the hook point Bent – thread loop forms too far away from hook point; hook can’t enter loop to form stitch Blunt – needle won’t pierce fabric so no thread loop forms to make a stitch

Need To Know

• Needle should be changed every 4-6 hours of sewing. The needle is the most inexpensive part in your sewing machine but is one of the most crucial for getting good results and keeping your machine running well. Don’t let false economy keep you from doing what is best for your sewing projects and your machine.

• European needles are chrome-plated to glide in and out of fabric easily.

• The selected thread should fit in the groove on the front of the needle. If it isn’t protected by the groove, a needle with a larger groove should be used.

• Always make sure the needle is fully inserted as high as possible when installing a new one.

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		SEWING MACHINE NEEDLES

	Ball Point	70-90	Has a rounder point. 70 for
			lingerie, nylon, jersey; 80 for
			T-shirt; 90 for sweatshirt fleece.
	Stretch	70-90	A stretch needle has a more
			rounded point and a blue anti-
			cling coating which helps to
			prevent skipped stitches in knits
			and elastic. Sometimes used on
			Ultrasuede®, vinyl, and plastic.
	Stretch	2.5/75	Two ballpoint needles on one
		4.0/75
	Double		shank; each needle has a large
			scarf. Used for hemming and for
			stitching on knit fabric.
	Universal	60-110	A compromise between a sharp
			and a ballpoint needle; can be
			used on both wovens and knits.
			60 – very fine batiste
			70 – broadcloth
			80 – trigger and gabardine
			90 – denim and twill
			100 & 110 – canvas
	Double	1.6/70-	Two needles attached to one
	Universal		shank. Used for pintucks, hems,
		8.0/100	and decorative work. Note: The
			170 QPE can use up to a 4.0mm
			and a 180 can use up to an
	Triple	3.0/90	8.0mm.
			Three needles attached to one
	(Drilling)
			shank. Used to create mock
			smocking and other decorative
	Jeans	70-90	effects.
			Has a sharp point and a shaft
			that is less prone to flex. The
			sharpness of the needles makes
			it better for use on denim and
			woven fabrics where a clean
	Jeans	4.0/100	stitch is desired.
			Two Jeans needles attached to
	Double
			one shank. For topstitching on
			denim with heavy thread; can
			also be used for decorative

Microtex	60-90	stitching with metallic thread.
Sharp		A sharp point with a thin shaft.
(Schmetz)		60-90 corresponds to the weight
Microfiber		of the fabric; as the fabric gets
		heavier, the number is higher.
(Lammertz)
Quilting	assort’d	The thin, tapers point of this
	(75 &	needle causes less damage to
		fabric when seaming and cross
	90)
		seaming.
Topstitch	80-100	A sharp point with a large eye
		and deep groove. For use with
		heavier fabrics – the large
		groove cradles heavier threads.
Embroidery	75-90	Sharp needle with a large eye
(Schmetz)		and groove; also has a coating
Metafil		and a larger scarf. For use with
		embroidery thread – prevents
(Lammertz)		shredding of rayon or metallic
		threads. Two threads may be
		used through the eye of an 80
		or 90 needle.
Metafil	3.0/75	Two Metafil needles attached to
Double		one shaft; for double needle
		work with embroidery threads.
Wing	100-	Sharp pointed needle with a non-
		cutting wedge of metal on each
	120
		side. Needle makes a hole in the
		fabric without cutting the threads
		of the fabric. Used for decorative
		and heirloom work, such as
		hemstitching. Works best on
		natural fibers or on the bias.
Double	100	One regular needle and one wing
Wing		needle attached to a single shaft.
		Use the same as a Wing; makes
		one large and one regular hole.
Leather	80-90	Point is a sharp cutting wedge.
		Used for sewing leather only. Not
		for vinyl or simulated leathers.

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NEEDLE POSITIONS

Fabric: Firmly woven fabric, 4” x 6”

Needle: 90/14 Embroidery

Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery

Contrasting color

Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.____

•The 170 QPE/180 has 11 fixed needle positions.

•Fold fabric in half to 2” x 6”.

•Select Straight Stitch. The basic settings are displayed on the screen. The needle position indicator is just below the stitch width scale; the needle should be in center position.

•Position the fold of the fabric on the 1” mark on the right side of the stitch plate.

•Select Pattern End 3x; sew until the machine stops.

•Move the needle one position to the left.

•Sew until the machine stops.

•Repeat until all six positions have been sewn.

•Leaving the fabric under the foot – move the needle position back to center.

•Sew until the machine stops.

•Move the needle one position to the right.

•Sew until the machine stops.

•Move the needle one more position to the right – sew until the machine stops.

•Repeat until all six positions have been sewn.

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SEAMING

Fabric: Firm fabric – 2 pieces, 4” x 6” each

Needle: 90/14 Embroidery

Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery

Contrasting color

Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.____

•Find the 5/8” guide line on the stitch plate.

•Place fabric pieces right sides together and align them with the guide line.

•Sew a 5/8” seam on one 6” edge.

•Attach the Quilting/Seam Guide to the foot and sew a 2” seam on the other side.

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BERNINA®

Basting Stitch #21

Preprogrammed settings

Basting Stitch #21 - 5mm length

Long Stitch function engaged

BASTING

Fabric: Firm fabric – 2 pieces, 4” x 6” each

Needle: 90/14 Embroidery

Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery

Contrasting color

Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.____

•Place fabric pieces right sides together.

•Using Basting Stitch #21 with the preprogrammed length, baste a 5/8” seam along one side of the fabric.

•Using the same stitch with a 5.5mm stitch length, engage the Long Stitch function and baste another 5/8” seam along the opposite edge.

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BERNINA®
	TOPSTITCHING/EDGESTITCHING
	Fabric:		Firm fabric – 4” x 6”
	Needle:		90/14 Embroidery
	Thread:		30 wt. cotton embroidery
			Contrasting color
	Presser Foot: Edgestitch Foot #10/10C (optional accessory)

Owner’s manual pg.____

•Cut fabric in half to create 2 pieces each 2” x 6”.

•Sew two pieces together with a 5/8” seam on the 6” sides.

•Press the seam open.

•From the right side, position the blade of the foot in the ditch of the seam.

•Select Triple Straight Stitch #6.

•Move the needle position 3 places to the left.

•Sew the length of the seam.

•Select the Long Stitch function.

•Move the needle position 4 places to the right.

•Start at the top of the seam as before.

•Sew down the length of the seam again.

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SECURING STITCHES

Fabric: Firm fabric – 3 pieces, 3” x 6” each

Needle: 90/14 Embroidery

Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery

Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.____

• Fold each fabric piece in half to 1½” x 6”.

• Find the 5/8” seam line on the guide plate.

• The BERNINA® 170 QPE/180 secures in three ways:

1 – Select stitch #3 and sew a few stitches. Press the Quick Reverse button located on the front

of the sewing machine and the machine will sew in reverse until the button is released. Continue stitching the seam and secure the end in the same manner.

2 – Select stitch #5 and stitch. The machine will automatically reverse after five stitches, then continue in a forward motion. Stitch to the end of the seam, then press and release the Quick Reverse button. The machine will stitch backward five stitches, and then continue forward again five stitches and stop.

3 – Select stitch #332. Engage the Securing function to put a securing stitch at the beginning and the end of each pattern repeat. In regular sewing, turn the Securing function off after the first stitch and back on again after the last stitch is taken.

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SATIN STITCH

Fabric: Firm fabric – 3 pieces, 3” x 6” each

Needle: 90/14 Embroidery

Thread: 30 wt. Cotton Embroidery

Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.____

•Fold fabric in half to 3” x 6”. Use stabilizer as needed.

•Select Stitch #2. Change the stitch length to satin stitch and the stitch width to the maximum setting.

•Thread the bobbin thread through the hole in the finger of the bobbin case (170 QPE only).

•Move the needle position all the way to the left.

•Position the raw edge of the fabric on the 3/8” line (on the right side of the stitch plate).

•Sew down this edge about 1”. While continuing to sew, turn the stitch width knob to taper the stitch to 0mm. Then widen the stitch back to maximum. Repeat until the stitching reaches the end of the fabric.

•Position the fold of the fabric on the 3/8” line (on the left side of the stitch plate).

•Move the needle position all the way to the right and stitch along the right side of the fabric, tapering and widening the stitching while sewing.

•Move the needle position to the center and stitch down the center of the fabric, tapering and widening the satin stitch while sewing.

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BERNINA®

ALTERED MEMORY

Fabric:	Firm fabric – 6” x 6”
Needle:	90/14 Embroidery
Thread:	30 wt. cotton embroidery
Presser Foot:	Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.____

•Fold fabric to 3” x 6”.

•Select stitch #407.

•Sew a row of stitching as programmed down the center of the sample.

•Alter stitch length to 1mm and sew a 2nd row on one side of the first row.

•Touch CLR - this clears alterations made to the selected stitch only.

•Select stitch #2 - (the one used for satin stitching in the previous exercise). Notice the computer remembered all the changes made to the stitch.

•Select stitch #407 again.

•Alter stitch width to 3.5mm (170 QPE) or stitch 6mm (180) and sew a 3rd row on the other side of the first row.

•Touch CLR ALLnotice the alterations made are gone.

•Select stitch #2 again - notice the changes made to it are gone also. CLR ALL returns all stitch alterations back to default settings.

•The computer will remember any and all stitches you alter, as long as the clear buttons are not used and as long as the machine is not turned off.

RETURNING TO BASIC SETTINGS

• Three options:	1.	Press the external CLR button
	2.	Touch the CLR ALL function.
	3.	Manually set changes back to the basic mark
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	BERNINA®

WISH LIST

Care and Feeding of Your Machine

Feet-ures

Edgestitch Foot #10/10C

Additional bobbin holders for accessory cabinet

Additional presser foot holders for accessory cabinet

Stabilizers – Sampler Pack or	type __________
	type __________
Thread – Assortment or	size ____ and type ____
	size ____ and type ____
Needles – Assortment or	size ____ and type ____
	size ____ and type ____
	size ____ and type ____
	size ____ and type ____

Needle Threader Bobbins – Baker’s dozen

Spool Bobbin Holders

Magnetic Pin Cushion

Magnetic Bobbin Holder Straight Stitch Plate Seam Sealant

Extra Thread Stand

Scissors - 6” or 7” Dressmaker’s shears ____

4” or 5” Trimming scissors ____

Thread nips ____

Left guide (matches right guide included with machine)____

Seam Guide with Rulers (right and left) ____

Set of Magnifying Glasses

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MASTERING YOUR

BERNINA®

artista 170 QPE/180

OWNER’S WORKBOOK

Section B

Let’s Start With The Basics

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SECTION B

Let’s Start With The Basics

	Seams				Reinforced Overlock – SL2mm SW5mm
	Triple Straight Stitch – SL 2-3mm				Owner’s manual pg. ____
	Owner’s manual pg.____				• The artista has several seaming stitches
	• Jeans Foot #8 prevents needle deflection				from which to choose, depending on the
	• Non-Stick Straight Stitch Foot #53				type of fabric being used. With the Creative
	• This stitch sews strong seams on heavy				Consultant, you can specify the type of fabric
	fabrics				you want to use, and the computer will
	Zigzag – SL1mm	SW1.5mm			suggest the appropriate stitch.
					Stitching Corners
	Owner’s manual pgs.____
	Stretch – SL1mm	SW2mm			• Utilize the FHS system to raise and lower
					the presser foot when turning corners.
	Owner’s manual pg. ____				• Use the	5	8
							/ ” markings on stitch plate
	Super Stretch – as programmed				• Engage the Needle Down function
					• Press heel on foot control to lower needle
	Owner’s manual pg. ____
	• use to seam curved edges that receive a				Oversewing Edges
	lot of stress such as the crotch area of pants.				Blind Hem – Owner’s manual pg.____
	Vari-Overlock – SL1mm		SW4mm NP right		• The Blind Hem Foot #5, along with the
					blindstitch, produces a superior blind hem.
	Owner’s manual pg. ____				The zigzag part of the stitch is formed over
	• Can be used with double needle for a				the guide on the foot, causing the stitch to
	decorative hem on knits				be slightly loose, so that the blind hem will
	• Overlock Foot #2 (optional for 170 QPE) or				not pucker and does not form a tuck in the
	#2A (included with 180) prevents the seam				fabric.
	from rolling as it is being sewn
	• Engage the Needle Down function				Hand Picked – Feet-ures, Unit B pg.____
	Double Overlock – SL2mm			SW5mm	Triple Zigzag – Feet-ures, Unit A pg.____
	Owner’s manual pg. ____				• This stitch is used for strong, visible hems
	Knit Overlock – as programmed				on firm, coarse fabrics such as denim and
					canvas.
	Owner’s manual pg. ____
	• Use Overlock Foot #2 (optional for 170 QPE)				Double Needle – Feet-ures, Units A and K, pgs__
	or #2A (included with 180)				Neckline Hem – Owner’s manual pg.____
	Stretch Overlock – SL2mm			SW4mm
	Owner’s manual pg. ____				Jeans – Feet-ures, Unit B pg.____
	Flat Joining – SL2mm		SW4mm		• Height Compensation Tool
	Owner’s manual pg. ____

•Good for thick fabrics such as terry cloth which would be stretched by a straight stitch

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BERNINA®

TRIPLE STRAIGHT STITCH

Fabric:	Denim, 4” x 6”
Needle:	90/14 Jeans
Thread:	All-purpose
Presser Foot:	Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
	Edgestitch Foot #10/10C (optional accessory)

Owner’s manual pg.___

•Cut the fabric in half lengthwise forming two pieces, 2” x 6” each.

•Select the Triple Straight Stitch #6.

•Sew the two pieces together with a 5/8” seam allowance using Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C.

•Press the seam open.

•Change to Edgestitch Foot #10/10C and adjust the needle position to stitch through the seam allowance.

•Adjust the stitch length to 3.5mm.

•With the guide of the foot in the ditch of the seam, topstitch the length of the seam on both sides.

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	BERNINA®

ZIGZAG SEAM

Fabric:	Firm knit – 4” x 6”
Needle:	80/12 Universal
Thread:	All-purpose
Presser Foot:	Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.___

•Cut the fabric piece in half lengthwise, creating two pieces, 2” x 6” each.

•Select the Zigzag Stitch #2 – SW 1mm and SL 0.5mm.

•Position the fabric to produce a 5/8” seam down one side.

•Stitch the seam.

•Clip one seam allowance in the middle.

•Press one part of the seam open and leave the other half closed, so the stitch is visible.

•Trim and mount the sample.

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	MASTERING
	YOUR		BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180
	BERNINA®
		SUPER STRETCH SEAM
			Fabric:	Heavy Double Knit, 4” x 6”
			Needle:	80/12 Universal
			Thread:	All-purpose
			Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.___

•Cut fabric in half lengthwise creating two pieces, 2” x 6” each.

•Select stitch #11.

•Position the fabric to produce a 5/8” seam down one side.

•Stitch the seam; lighten the presser foot presure if fabric stretches.

•Clip one seam allowance in the middle and press one part of the seam open.

•Trim and mount the sample.

Note: This stitch is good for an open seam on all knit fabrics; works well for sportswear.

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BERNINA®

VARI-OVERLOCK SEAM

Fabric:	Cotton Interlock, 4” x 6”
Needle:	Ribbing, 2” x 4”
	80/12 Univeral
Thread:	All-purpose
Presser Foot:	Overlock Foot #2 (optional accessory) /2A

Owner’s manual pg.___

•Cut an inside curve in one corner of the fabric to simulate a neckline.

•Select the Vari-Overlock Stitch #3.

•Engage the Needle Down function.

•Place folded ribbing along the curved edge of the fabric (ribbing and fabric, right sides together).

•Guide the raw edges of the fabric under the pin of the foot and stitch; stitch length and width can be adjusted, if needed.

•Trim the sample and mount with the ribbing pressed to the finished position.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 1/10/02

artista 170 QPE/180/22

	MASTERING
	YOUR		BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180
	BERNINA®
		DOUBLE OVERLOCK SEAM
		Fabric:	Single Knit – 4” x 6”
		Needle:	80/12 Universal
		Thread:	All-purpose
		Presser Foot: Overlock Foot #2 (optional accessory) /2A

Owner’s manual pg.___

•Cut the fabric in half lengthwise, creating two pieces, 2” x 6’ each.

•Select the Double Overlock Stitch #10.

•Guide the raw edge along the pin of the Overlock Foot.

•The right swing of the needle should go off the fabric edge.

•Trim the sample and mount.

Note: This is a good overlock seam for loosely knit fabrics and for cross seams in other knits and jerseys.

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	MASTERING
		BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180
	YOUR
	BERNINA®

KNIT OVERLOCK SEAM

Fabric:	Sweater knit fabric, 4”x 6”
Needle:	80/12 Universal
Thread:	Regular sewing
Presser Foot:	Overlock Foot #2 (optional accessory) /2A

Owner’s manual pg.___

•Cut the fabric in half lengthwise, creating 2 pieces 2” x 6” each.

•Select the Stretch Overlock stitch #20.

•Guide the fabric so the right swing of the needle goes off the edge of the seam; lighten presser foot pressure if seam stretches.

•Trim and mount the sample.

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MASTERING

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BERNINA®

BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

STRETCH OVERLOCK SEAM

Fabric:	Loosely knit fabric, 4”x 6”
Needle:	80/12 Universal
Thread:	Regular sewing
Presser Foot:	Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.___

•Cut the fabric in half lengthwise, creating 2 pieces 2” x 6” each.

•Select the Stretch Overlock stitch #13.

•Guide the fabric so the right swing of the needle goes off the edge of the seam; lighten presser foot pressure if seam stretches.

•Trim and mount the sample.

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MASTERING

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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

BERNINA®

FLAT JOINING SEAM

Fabric:	Terry cloth - 2 pieces, 2” x 6” each
Needle:	90/14 Universal
Thread:	Regular sewing thread to match fabric
Presser Foot:	Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.___

•Select the Stretch Overlock stitch #13.

•Cut a 5/8” seam allowance off one piece of fabric along the long edge.

•Mark a line on the other piece of fabric, 5/8” from one long edge. This will be the right-hand piece of fabric.

•Overlap the fabric edges left over right, aligning the left raw edge with the drawn line on the right-hand piece.

•Stitch along the raw edge. Turn the fabric over and stitch along the remaining raw edge.

NOTE: This is a great seam technique to use on bulky fabrics such as terry cloth.

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	MASTERING
		BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180
	YOUR
	BERNINA®

REINFORCED OVERLOCK SEAM

Fabric:	Bulky knit fabric, 4”x 6”
Needle:	80/12 Universal
Thread:	Regular sewing
Presser Foot:	Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.___

•Cut the fabric in half lengthwise, creating 2 pieces 2” x 6” each.

•Select the Reinforced Overlock stitch #19.

•Guide the fabric along the 15mm line for a 5/8” seam; lighten presser foot pressure if seam stretches.

•Trim excess seam allowance and mount the sample.

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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

BERNINA®

STITCHING CORNERS

Fabric:	Firm fabric – 2 pieces, 5” x 5” each
Needle:	80/12 Universal
Thread:	All-purpose
Presser Foot:	Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.___

•Select the Straight Stitch #1.

•Place fabric pieces right sides together.

•Place the fabric under the foot with the top edge even with the horizontal line behind the foot.

•The right edge should be even with the 5/8” seam line.

•Engage the Needle Down function.

•Sew until the bottom edge touches the horizontal line in front of the needle; stop.

•Pivot and continue sewing until you come to the next corner and do the same thing.

•Stitch only three sides of this sample.

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MASTERING
YOUR		BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180
BERNINA®
		OVERSEWING EDGES
		Fabric:	Heavy Flannel – 3” x 6”
		Needle:	80/12 Universal
		Thread:	All-purpose
		Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C

Owner’s manual pg.___

•Select the Zigzag Stitch #2.

•Finish one 6” edge using the following steps.

•Guide edge of fabric under the middle of the presser foot.

•The needle should go into the fabric on one stroke of the needle and over the edge on the next stroke.

•Do not use too long a stitch or too wide a stitch; the edge should lie flat, not roll.

•Match the weight of the thread to the weight of the fabric.

•Trim and mount the sample.

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MASTERING

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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180

BLIND HEM

Fabric:	Heavy Flannel – 6” x 7”
Needle:	80/12 Universal
Thread:	All-purpose
Presser Foot:	Reverse pattern Foot #1/1C and
	Blind Hem Foot #5

Owner’s manual pg.___

•Finish one 6” edge of the fabric following the steps of the previous exercise.

•Fold a 2” hem to the wrong side of the fabric and press.

•Select Basting Stitch #21 and attach Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C.

•Baste the hem in place, sewing about ¼” from the raw edge.

•Select the Blindstitch #9 and attach Blind Hem Foot #5.

•Fold hem back to the right side over the basting line.

•Sew on the extended hem allowance, keeping the folded edge next to the guide on the foot.

•Adjust the stitch width if needed so that the needle barely stitches into the fold.

•Mount the sample with the edges folded back as shown in the drawing.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 1/10/02

artista 170 QPE/180/30