Bernette 20
Bernina Bernette 20, Bernette 46, Bernette 66, Bernette 92C, Artista 635 Operation Manual
...
©2010 BERNINA of America, Inc. Permission granted to copy and distribute in original form only.
Content may not be altered or used in any other form or under any other branding.
Basic Operation
For all current BERNINA models
Including bernettes
Table of Contents
Introduction ................................................................................................................. 3
Sewing Machine Needles ........................................................................................... 4
Thread ........................................................................................................................ 6
Presser Feet ............................................................................................................... 7
Securing Stitches ........................................................................................................ 8
Turning Corners .......................................................................................................... 9
Zigzag Stitch ............................................................................................................... 10
Blind Hem ................................................................................................................... 11
Triple Straight Stitch ................................................................................................... 12
Vari-Overlock Stitch .................................................................................................... 13
Stretch Stitch .............................................................................................................. 14
Gathering Over Cord .................................................................................................. 15
Buttonholes ................................................................................................................. 16
Manual Buttonholes .................................................................................................... 17
Automatic Buttonholes ................................................................................................ 18
Attaching Buttons ...................................................................................................... 19
Stitching Zippers ......................................................................................................... 20
Stitch, Function, and Foot Charts ............................................................................... 21
1008
8Series
bernette
activa
aurora
12/13/10
artista
3Series
The information in this workbook applies to all current BERNINA
and bernette sewing machines. Note: Some exercises apply only
to models equipped with the highlighted feature.
2
Introduction
This workbook is designed to be used as a step-by-step guide to familiarize you with the basic operation of
your BERNINA
machine, attach the sewn samples to the information pages (or add an extra mounting page as a facing page)
and insert the pages into plastic page protectors to store in a 3-ring binder. They can then be used as a
reference tool in the future as you use your machine and explore the creative possibilities it affords.
Pages 23-25 of this workbook have several charts that are useful when working through the stitching exercises on pages 8-20. Stitch numbers, presser feet, and machine functions are listed for all BERNINA and
bernette models. This will help you determine if your machine can be used for the exercise and it will make
it faster for you to locate particular stitches. Each stitch exercise page has a graphic of the stitch(es) used
so you can quickly find it on the chart and on your machine.
Each page that has a stitching exercise ends with a “Sew How” box. This mini-quiz will let you test your knowledge and review the points the exercise is covering. Taking the class is just the first step. Using the information on a fairly regular basis will help make it become part of your sewing skill set and before long it becomes
something you don’t even have to thing about.
BERNINA strives to provide its customers with quality sewing machines, and informative publications and
classes. Along with providing My BERNINA Classes, your local BERNINA dealer stocks BERNINA reference
books such as Feet-ures and The Serger Technique Reference Book. Plus, BERNINA of America, Inc. has
websites offering free projects and a variety of articles and postings that appeal to all types of stitchers, no
matter which machines are their favorites. Visit all of these and don’t forget the BERNINA of America blog
where you can share ideas and inspiration with other BERNINA enthusiasts!
or bernette sewing machine. Once you have completed the exercises designated for your
www.berninausa.com
www.bernina8series.com
www.berninamylabel.com
www.sewingrepublic.com
www.berninaUSAblog.com
www.throughtheneedle.com
For more ideas and information about using your
BERNINA machine, download Through the Needle
ONLINE. This FREE magazine offers fun sewing
projects and informative articles for all types of
stitchers: quilters, garment makers, embroiderers,
crafters, virtual stitchers, fiber artists and more!
Sign up now for Through the Needle ONLINE at
www.throughtheneedle.com, and you’ll receive an
e-mail notification with a link to each new issue when
it becomes available. After all, the next best thing to
sewing is reading about it!
12/13/10
3
Sewing Machine Needles
General Information
Along with thread, needles are very important to stitch formation.
Many “mechanical” problems and damage to fabrics can be
traced to a bent, damaged, or incorrect size or type needle.
When selecting the correct needle, consider the following:
Needle system – 130/705H
Needle point – assures proper stitch formation; avoids fabric
damage
Needle size – smaller for lightweight fabrics; larger for heavier
fabrics
If the needle is:
Too small – the thread can’t stay in the groove to form a
loop to be picked up by the hook point
Bent – the thread loop forms too far away from hook point
and the hook can’t enter the loop to form a stitch
Blunt – the needle won’t pierce fabric, so no thread loop
forms to make a stitch
Need to Know
Needles should be changed after every 4-6
hours of stitching. The needle is the most
inexpensive part in your sewing machine
but it is crucial for getting good results and
keeping your machine running well. Don’t
let false economy keep you from doing
what is best for your sewing projects and
your machine.
Needle “Secret” Code
• DRI = Triple
• E = Embroidery
• J = Jeans
• L, LL, R = Leather
• M = Microtex
• MET = Metallica
• N = Topstitching/Cordonnet
• Q = Quilting
• S = Stretch
• SUK = Fine Ball Point
• SES = Medium Ball Point
• WING = Wing
• ZWI = Double
Needle Size Conversion
Regardless of the system, the
greater the number, the larger
the diameter of the needle.
European vs. Domestic
60 = 8
70 = 10
75 = 11
80 = 12
90 = 14
100 = 16
110 = 18
120 = 19
PartsofaNeedle
Shank (flat side to the back)
Groove (on the front)
Scarf (on the back)
Needle Size for Fabrics
60 – very fine batiste
70 – shirt-weight
80 – medium-weight
90 – denim and twill
100/110/120 – canvas
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Eye
Point
The selected thread should fit
in the groove on the front of the
needle. If it isn’t protected by the
groove, a needle with a larger
groove should be used.
Always make sure needles are
fully inserted as high as possible,
with the flat side to the back.
Shaft
4
Type Sizes Description
Sewing Machine Needles
Ballpoint
Stretch
Universal
Double
Triple
Jeans
Leather
Microtex
/ Sharp
Quilting
60-100
70-90
60-120
1.6/70-
8.0/100
2.5/90
3.0/90
70-110
80-100
60-90
75 & 90
Has a rounded point. Size 70 for lingerie, nylon, jersey; 80 for T-shirt; 90
for sweatshirt fleece.
A Stretch needle has a more rounded point than a Ballpoint, and a blue
anti-cling coating which helps to prevent skipped stitches in knits and
elastic. Sometimes used on Ultrasuede, vinyl, and plastic.
A compromise between a Sharp and a Ballpoint; used on both wovens
and knits.
Two needles attached to one shank. For pintucks, hems, and decorative
work. Available in Universal, Stretch, Jeans, Metallica, and Embroidery
needles.
Three needles attached to one shank. Used to create mock smocking and
other decorative effects
Has a sharp point and a shaft that is less prone to flex. The sharpness
of the needle is better for use on denim and woven fabrics.
Point is a sharp cutting wedge. Used for leather only. Not for vinyl or
simulated leathers.
Sharp point; thin shaft. Specially designed for microfiber fabrics.
Thin, tapered point eliminates potential damage to fabric when seaming
and cross-seaming.
Topstitch
Embroidery
Metafil
Wing
Double Wing
Metallica
70-100
75 & 90
80
100 & 110
100
70-100
A sharp point with a large eye and deep groove. For use with heavier
fabrics – the large groove cradles heavier threads.
Sharp needle with large eye and groove; has a coating and a larger scarf.
Prevents shredding of rayon or metallic threads. Two threads may be
used through the eye.
Similar to Embroidery needle with large eye and deep groove. Made
of a heat-resistant alloy with a friction-reducing coating. Suitable for
manufactured fibers such as polyester, acrylic, and nylon.
Sharp-pointed needle with a non-cutting metal wedge on each side.
Makes a hole without cutting the threads of the fabric. Used for
decorative and heirloom work, such as hemstitching.
One Universal needle and one Wing needle attached to a single shank.
Designed for metallic threads; has a large eye and deep groove.
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5
Thread
To achieve quality stitches, a sewing machine needs three things: correct
thread, correct size needle, and properly adjusted thread tensions. Poor
quality or the wrong type of thread can cause inferior stitches on any
machine. Inferior thread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered
seams, frayed thread, and/or needle breakage. Did you know that thread
passes through the eye of the needle approximately 37 times in a
“seesaw” action before it forms a single stitch?
Long staple threads are stronger and smoother than short staple threads.
(Staple refers to the length of fibers used to twist together to form a single
ply). Most bargain-priced threads are usually short staple and will deposit
more lint and fuzz into your sewing machine, potentially causing tension
inconsistencies and possibly even damage to your machine over the long
term. Using long staple threads also result in less snagging and fraying
as you sew.
Ply refers to the number of strands twisted together to make a single
thread. The number of plies are usually indicated by a number after the
weight of the thread such as 50/3, which means a 3-ply, 50-wt. thread.
The lower the weight, the heavier the thread; conversely, higher numbers
indicate fine or lightweight thread.
Guidelines for Thread Weights
12 wt.— Couching, bobbinwork
30 wt.— Embroidery, bobbinwork
40 wt.— General construction, quilting, embroidery
50 wt.— General construction, piecing, bobbin thread
60 wt.— Lingerie, heirloom, appliqué, bobbin thread
80 wt.— Extra-fine lingerie, heirloom
Fibers
Fiber refers to the type of material
used to produce the thread.
Polyester
Good for clothing construction on
man-made, natural or blended fabrics. Tolerates high temperatures.
Polyester embroidery thread has a
high sheen; excellent for embroidery,
very abrasion resistant.
Cotton 2 ply
Mettler 60/2; excellent for French
heirloom stitching, delicate machine
embroidery, piecing and darning.
Mettler 30/2; loose twist for a soft,
shiny look in machine embroidery,
appliqué, and buttonholes.
Mettler 50/2; excellent for clothing
construction on natural fibers. Tighter
twist than embroidery cotton thread
and less puckering on problem fabrics. Cotton thread stretches less
than polyester.
Rayon
A lustrous embroidery thread; weaker
than cotton, it is used for decorative
work only.
Silk
Used on silk and wool fabrics, this
strong, lustrous fiber is good for
construction and decorative details
such as buttonholes. Also used for
quilting as it blends into the fabric.
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The exercises in this workbook are designed to be sewn
with Mettler thread. Use one
of the following in any color
of medium value:
• Metrosene Polyester
• Silk-finished 50-wt. cotton
6
Presser Feet
BERNINA Presser Feet:
▪ are precision engineered for specific functions
▪ are Swiss-made for the highest quality
▪ are one-piece metal feet, making them sturdy and durable
▪ are easy to change with one hand, requiring no special tools
▪ have a white shank, making it easier to see the eye of the needle,
resulting in easier threading
▪ are, in some cases, modeled after commercial feet used in factories to
increase speed and production with professional results
▪ do the job intended in relation to all types of sewing (example, quilting,
garment-making, home dec, etc.)
▪ are supported by the best and most complete educational materials in the
industry, such as Feet-ures volumes 1, 2, & 3, and the BERNINA of
America website at www.berninausa.com
Understanding the Numbers/Letters
BERNINA presser feet are numbered and may have one or two additional versions with a letter that follows
the number, such as Edgestitch Foot #10C or Jeans Foot #8D.
Number Only—The number without a letter refers to a foot engineered for BERNINA models that have a
CB Hook and a maximum stitch width of 5.5mm. These feet may also be compatible with models that have
a 9mm width when a 9mm width is not desired, such as when making pintucks with feet #30, 31, 32, or 33.
The Letter “C”—When a foot number is followed by a “C”, it indicates a version of the foot made for models
that have rotary hook systems and a maximum stitch width of 9mm. The “C” stands for coded and refers to
the sensor on the foot that works with the electronics of the machine to engage the wider stitch width. The
sole of the “C” foot is usually larger to fit the wider feed dog of the rotary hook machines. Exceptions: Overlock
Foot #2/2A: 2A is larger to fit the wider feed dog but does not have a sensor for a wider stitch because the
overlock stitches are not used at wide widths. Extra Wide Gathering Foot #16C: 16C is larger to fit the wider
feed dog but does not have a sensor for a wider stitch width.
The Letter “D”—The feet that have a number followed by a
“D” are designed to work with the 8-Series (models 830 and
820) Dual Feed feature. After attaching the foot, the Dual Feed
mechanism is positioned in the cutout on the back of the foot,
engaging the BERNINA Dual Feed system. It is recommended
that the D-Feet be used only when the BERNINA Dual Feed
Feature is engaged.
Easy-On/Easy-Off Soles—The 3 Series & activa machines
have simple-to-use easy-on/easy-off metal soles that attach
to a standard shank. These machines are also compatible
with the one-piece full-shank presser feet available as
optional accessories for all BERNINA machines.
For complete information
on all of the BERNINA presser feet &
accessories, see Feet-ures, Vols 1, 2, & 3.
12/13/10
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