SINGER 771 User Manual

Name: SINGER 771
Brand: SINGER
SKU: 1806314
Rating: 4.5 (2 reviews)

4.5 (2)

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Deluxe Zig-Zag Sewirig Machine by SINGER

Congratulaiions... You are about to discover the wonderfui pleasure of sewing with your new

Touch & Sew* sewing machine. The Modei 771 Flip & Sew* sewing machine

features a hinged bed lor free arm sewing. And you will also enjoy;

• the simplicity of dial controls. Now, you can simply dial a stitch length, a stitch width, and a stitch pattern; pressure and tension settings; even buttonhole stitching

• the versatility Oi sewing capacity that produces stitches that stretch, and stitches that don't stretch ... permanent stitches that are firmly locked in, and temporary stitches that pul! out easily... stitches that decorate, embroider, mend, baste

• and, of course, the ease of the push-button bobbin, and much more!

Among the many Singer engineering and design features that ensure these sewing pleasures are —

• buHt-in stitch patterns, which let you produce a straight stitch and a variety of zig-zag patterns by simply turning a dial, plus Flexi-Stitch* patterns for stitching knit and stretch fabrics and producing intricate stitch designs

• Soft-touch Fabric Feed that protects even the most delicate fabrics

• one-way needle clamp that makes it impossible to insert the needle back wards

• stitch control dial that lets you switch from regular to s-t-r-e-t-c-h

stitching

• easy needle plate changing — needle plate secured by magnets is easy to lift out for cleaning

• three-position presser foot lifter that lets you place bulky fabric or many fabric layers under the presser foot

As you go through this book, you will discover how these and many other leatures give you the ultimate in simplicity of operation and beautiful results.

sewing!

SINGEB* Service is always close at hand, if your machine should need servic ing, call your local SINGER Sewing Center to be sure of v.'arranted SINGER Parts and Service. You will find the address in the telephone directory under SINGER COMPANY.

AU Rights Reserved Throughoyt the Wodd

CONTENTS

1. Getting to Know Your Machine......................................................................

Principal Parts and What They Do..................................................................................................... 3

Accessories.......................................................................................................................................... 4

2. Getting Ready to Sew

Preliminary Steps ................................................................................................................................... 6

Choosing Needle and Thread ............................................................................................................. 7

Threading the Machine..................................................................................................................... 12

3. Straight Stitching...................................................................................................................................... 18

Preparation ..................................................................................................................................... 18

Starting to Sew.................................................................................................................................... 18

Adjusting for Your Fabric.................................................................................................................. 19

Sewing a Seam..................................................................................................................................... 21

4. Zig-Zag Stitching.................................................................................................................................... 25

Zig-Zag Stitch Patterns......................................................................................................................... 25

Adjusting Dials.................................................................................................................................... 26

Satin Stitching .................................................................................................................................... 28

5. Twin-Needle Stitching.............................................................................................................................. 29

Inserting the Needle............................................................................................................................ 29

Threading the Needle.......................................................................................................................... 30

Dial Settings ........................................................................................................................................ 31

Turning a Square Corner ..................................................................................................................... 32

.....

.......................................................................................................................... 6

.......................................

6. Temporary Stitching

Speed Basting ................................................................................................................................... 33

Chainstitching....................................................................................................................................... 35

7. Buttons and Buttonholes........................................................................................................................ 39

Buttons............................................................................................................................................... 39

Buttonholes....................................................................................................................................... 40

8. Free-Motion Stitching ............................................................................................................................ 46

Flower Embroidery ............................................................................................................................ 46

9. Sewing the Professional Way ............................................................................................................. 47

Construction Details......................................................................................................................... 47

Sewing Knit and Stretch Fabric .......................................................................................................

Hints on Sewing Special Fabric......................................................................................................... 58

Decorative Touches ............................................................................................................................. 60

Keeping Up Appearances................................................................................................................. 65

10. Free-Arm Sewing

11. Caring for Your Machine ................................................................................................................... 72

Cleaning the Machine ........................................................................................................................ 72

Removing Covers. Bobbin Case, and Bulb........................................................................................ 73

Performance Checklist ....................................................................................................................... 76

12. Sewing Aids

...................................................................................................................................... 78

..............

................................................................................................................................ 68

................................................................................................................ 33

Index................................................................................................................................................................. 80

1. GETTING TO KNOW YOUR MACHINE

12, Spool Hol<ler

13. Handwheel

Switch

Dial

16. Stitch Width Dial

Dial

Lever

19* Suttonhoie Dial

20. Sewing Light

principal parts and what they do

1. Pattern Selector Dial can be set to pro duce a straight stitch, a decorative or practical zig-zag stitch: or speed basting.

2. Tension Dial lets you select just the right tension for your stitch, thread, and fabric. The numbers eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings,

3. Tension Discs, controlled by the tension dial, regulate the amount of tension on your needle thread.

4. Self-Threading Take-up Lever controls flow of needle thread.

5. Pressure Dial regulates presser-foot pressure on fabric. It has an all-purpose sewing setting plus settings for extra light and extra-heavy pressure and for darning.

6. Face Plate swings open for access to threading chart and pressure dial.

7. Thread Cutter is built into presser bar for safety and convenience,

8. Presser Foot holds fabric against feed.

9. Soft-Touch Feed moves fabric under

presser foot. Soft surface does not injure fabric, even the most delicate.

10. Needle Plate, secured by magnets, lifts out for removal. Guidelines on right and left sides of plate help you keep seams straight.

11. Slide Plate opens easily, lets you see bobbin. Releases bobbin push button from winding to sewing position when closed. Seam guidelines (extended from needle plate) have cross lines to help you turn square corners.

12. Friction-Free Spool Holder with horizon tal pin holds spools of various sizes: holder lets thread unwind without tug or drag. The spool does not turn.

13. Hand Wheel controls movement of takeup lever and needle. Always turn it toward

you.

14. Power and Light Switch turns on machine and sewing light simul taneously. FAST and SLOW speed range settings let you choose the best sewing speed for your work.

15. Needle Position Dial places needle in either L (left), A (center) or R (right) stitching position.

16. Stitch Width Dial controls the width of zig-zag stitching and positions the nee dle for bobbin winding and straight stitching.

17. Stitch Control Dial allows for a variety of stitch lengths, including FINE for zig-zag satin stitching. Has special settings for buttonholing and Flexi-Stitch patterns.

18. Reverse-Stitch Lever instantly reverses stitching direction at the touch of your finger.

19. Buttonhole Diai controls steps in sewing round-end buttonholes. Dial must be in OFF position when not in use,

20. Built-in Sewing Light illuminates sewing area. Pull-down bracket makes it easy to replace bulb.

21. Hinged Plate converts machine for free arm sewing.

22. Needle Clamp is designed to make nee dles self-setting and eliminate the possibility of inserting needle back wards.

23. Presser Foot Lifter, at back of machine, allows you to raise and lower presser foot. Extra-high lift position permits easy placement of bulky fabrics.

24. Transparent Bobbin shows thread sup ply. Two halves can be unscrewed to гетюуе unwanted thread.

25. Bobbin Latch holds bobbin in place. Flips up at the touch of your finger for easy bobbin removal.

26. Bobbin Push Button allows you to switch from sewing to bobbin winding without rem*oving bobbin.

27. Electrical Connections and Speed Con

troller designed for convenience and

safety.

accessories

The accessories that come with your Touch & Sew sewing machine are designed to help you

do many Kinds of sewing easily and perfectly. To increase the versatility of your machine, additional accessories can be purchased at your Singer store. See page 78.

1. BOBBINS

Transparent Bobbin Seam and Biindstitch

Hem Guide

Regular Needle

Bat! Point

(Yellow Band) Needle

Twin Needle

• Transparent drop-in bobbin in your machine.

• Extra transparent drop-in bobbins.

2. SEAM AND BLINDSTITCH HEM GUIDE

• Helps you stitch seams and blindstitch hems of uniform width.

3. NEEDLES

IMPORTANT: Your SINGER sewing

machine has been designed to obtain best results with SINGER* needles. You should follow the recommendations in this in struction book and on the needle package for correct style and size of needle for different types and weights of fabric.

• Style 2020 (15x1) needles, for all-pur pose sewing.

• Style 2045 ball-point Yellow Band" nee

dles, for sewing synthetic knits and stretch fabrics.

Vertical

Spool Pin

Small

Spool Holder

Lint Brush

Style 2028 needle, decorative stitching.

4. VERTICAL SPOOL PIN

• Vertical spool pin for decorative twin-

needle stitching.

5. SMALL SPOOL HOLDER

• For use with small diameter tubes of

thread.

6. LINT BRUSH

• Lint brush for cleaning your sewing

machine.

for twin-needie

7. PRESSER FEET

• The genera! purpose foot on your machine.

• Additionai interchangeabie snap-on presser feet:

Straight stitch foot for close fabric control

Zipper foot for inserting zippers and stitching corded seams

Special purpose foot for all kinds of decorative zig-zag stitching

Buttonhole foot to make round-end buttonholes

Overedge foot for overedged seams in stretch fabric

• A one-piece button foot to hold buttons securely for stitching.

• Even Feed Foot for sewing hard-to-feed pile, stretch, and bonded fabrics. Also excellent for matching plaids and stripes and for topstitching. (Cannot be used for speed basting.)

Fresser Feet

% •: I;

. \\ General Purpose

Foot

P p Zipper Foot

; Buttonhole Foot

>, Straight

Stitch

Special Purpose

Overedge Foot // /

8. MEEDLE PLATES

• The general purpose needle plate in place on your machine.

• The straight stitch needle plate for use with the st.--aight stitch foot.

• The chainstitch needle plate for single thread chainstitching.

• The feed-cover plate for button sewing

and free-motion work.

9. CHAINSTITCH FITTINGS

• One set of three fittings.

Thread Guide

Bobbin Case Cover

Needle Plate

Heedle Plates

General Purpose

Needle Plate

Straight Stitch

Needle Plate

ChamstiicN Fittings

Chainstitch

Needle Piate

Feed Cover

Plate

2. GETTliyC READY TO SEW

preliminary steps

1. CONNECTING MACHINE

Before plugging in your machine, be sure that the voltage and number of cycles indicated at the right end of the machine or inside face

plate conform to your electrical power supply. Push the machine plug into the machine recep

tacle. Then connect the power-line plug to

your electrical outlet

2. OPERATING MACHINE AND

CONTROLLER

To turn on both the machine and sewing light and set speed range, slide the power and light switch to the selected range.

F>Sv3T OFF' 3L.OW

^ i': ' T'^"rT?TTT

T¥^’T

F>OW3P^ e< L^IOMT

• The FAST setting allows for full speed ca

pacity of the machine. It is best for long, straight seams, easy-to-handle fabrics, and general sewing where a variety of speeds are needed.

Power and Light Switch

Speed Controller

• The SLOW setting allows for maximum con trol at lower sewing speeds. Use this setting for special jobs such as button sewing, but tonhole making, and where intricate con struction details require close control.

CAUTION: We recommend that you turn off the power and light switch before changing needles, presser feet or needle plates and when leaving the machine unattended. This elimi nates the possibility of starting the machine by accidentally pressing the speed controller.

To run the machine, press the speed con troller. The harder you press, the faster the

machine will sew within the selected speed range.

Very light pressure on the controller will oper ate the machine very slowly, enabling you to stop the machine with the needle In any desired position, up or down.

choosing needle and thread

The needle and thread you choose will depend upon the fabric being stitched. The table below is a practical guide to needle and thread

FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE TABLE t

selection. Refer to it before starting a sewing project Be sure to use the same size and type of thread in both needle and bobbin.

FABRIC WEIGHT AND TYPE

DELICATE — tulle, chiffon, fine lace, or

ganza, chiffon velvet

LIGHTWEIGHT - batiste, organdy, voile,

taffeta, crepe, chiffon velvet, plastic film, satin, surah, peau de soie, shantung, brocade

MEDIU.Vt WEIGHT - gingham, seersucker,

madras, percale, piqué, linen, chintz, faille. fine corduroy, velveteen, suitings, vinyl, terry doth, chains, twill

MEDIUIVI HEAVY — gabardine, tv/eed, sail

cloth. duck, denim, coatings, drapery fabrics, vinyl, deep“pile fabrics, corduroy, bonded fabric

HEAVY — overcoatings, upholstery fabrics,

canvas

KNITS, WOVEN STRETCH AND ELASTIC--

double knits, bonded knits, spandex, ny

lon tricot ciré tricot, jersey, panné velvet,

stretch terry

LEATHER — suede, kidskin. calf, capeskin.

buckskin, cabreita. patent, cobra, lined

leathers, simulated leathers

VINYLS (KNIT BACK)-suede, imitation

reptile, crinkle patent, patent, embossed and printed vinyls

WOVEN FABRICS (ALL WEIGHTS) - dec

orative straight-stitch topstitchlng

LIGHT AND MEDIUM WEIGHTS (WOVEN) -

decorative twin-needle stitching

tDoes not apply to chalnstitching.

ttSize 9 needle recommended for sewing only. For

tttUse with mercerized cotton, “A” silk, or polyester

THREAD

Fine polyester, nylon,

or cotton thread Cotton-wrapped

polyester (FINE)

100% polyester

SO mercerized cotton

’^A" nylon

‘‘A’’silk

Cotton-wrapped polyester

100% polyester

50 mercerized cotton

60 cotton

“A” silk

Cotton-wrapped polyester

100% polyester

Heavy-duty

mercerized cotton

40 to 60 cotton

Cotton-wrapped polyester

Heavy-duty

mercerized cotton

40 cotton

Cotton-wrapped polyester

100% polyester

'‘A'" nylon

50 mercerized cotton

‘‘A’' silk

Cotton-wrapped polyester

100% polyester

50 mercerized cotton

nylon

“A" silk

Cotton-wrapped polyester

100% polyester

50 mercerized cotton

nylon

Yellow Band

^'A^’silk

-D'’silkttt

(Buttonhole twist)

Cotton-wrapped polyester

100% polyester

50 mercerized cotton

bobbin winding use larger size needle,

thread in bobbin.

NEEDLES

TYPE SIZE

Style 2020

(15x1)

Style 2020

,15x1)

Style 2020

(15x1)

Style 2020

(15x1)

Style 2020

(15x1)

Style 2045

Ball Polrit

Style 2032

(15x2)

Style 2045

Sail Point

Style 2020

(15x1)

Style 202$

(twin)

9tt

14 16

16 16

Changing the Needle

NEEDLES

The needle you use should be straight to en sure perfect stitch formation and needle penetration through the fabric. The needle should also be fine enough to prevent the fabric from being marred with large punctures, yet heavy enough to pierce the fabric without being bent or deflected. Remember, too, that the eye of the needle must be large enough for the thread to pass through freely; too fine a needle will cause the thread to fray.

For best results use a SINGER* needle.

Changing the Needle

1. Raise needle bar to its highest point, loosen needle-clamp screw, and remove needle.

2. insert new needle in clamp, with the flat

side of the needle to the back; push it up as far as it will go.

General Purpose Foot

3. Tighten needle-clamp screw.

choosing accessories

The type of sewing you plan to do will deter mine which presser foot and needle plate you should use.

PRESSER FEET Three Most Used Presser Feet

General purpose foot is used with the general

purpose needle plate for all utility sewing and some decorative zig-zag stitching. These general purpose accessories ntust be used together when alternating between straight and zig-zag stitching.

straight stitch foot Is used with the straight

stitch needle plate when your fabric or sewing procedure requires close control Use for:

• Precision straight stitching of curved and scalloped edges, top stitching, edge stitch ing. etc.

• Straight stitching delicate or spongy fabrics.

Special purpose foot is used with the general

purpose needle plate for all kinds of decora tive zig-zag stitching. The raised center sec tion of the foot allows closely spaced zig-zag stitching to feed freely while the toe holds fabric firmly for straight line feeding. Use for:

• Ornamental stitching, bar-tack buttonholes.

Flexi-Stitch pattern stitching, applique, satin stitching,

Presser Feet for Special Sewing Needs Zipper foot is used to place stitching close to

a raised edge. Thus, it is useful for corded seams (page 48) as well as zipper insertion

(page 47). It can be fitted to the presser foot shank for use on either the right or left side of the needle.

Straight Stitch Foot

Button Foot

Sutton foot holds any two-hole or four-hole button securely for stitching. The groove in the foot can be used to hold a needle, over which a thread shank can be formed.

Buttonhole foot. This snap-on transparent foot is used to make two-step, round-end but tonholes in fabrics of light to medium weight. The guidelines on the sole plate simplify but tonhole placement and make it easy to gauge buttonhole length.

Overedge foot, used with the overedge stretch pattern (see page 54) enables you to produce flexible overedge seams and edge finishes. It is particularly useful in construc tion of garments made of knit, stretch, and elastic fabric.

Even Feed foot improves the feeding of fabrics that tend to stick, stretch, or slip while being sewn. The foot feeds top and bottom fabric layers together so that seams start even, feed evenly, and end even.

Changing Snap^on Presser Feet

press Toe Upward for Rerr.ovai

of New Presser Foot under Shank

■ \, Lower Presser Bar and

Press Down on Screw

; to Secure New Foot

CHANGING PRESSER FEET

Snap-on Presser Feet

These presser feet snap on and off a common shank.

1. Raise needle to its highest position and raise the presser foot.

2. Press toe of presser foot upward (as far as it will go) and then snap down to remove.

3. Center the new presser foot under the shank and lower the presser bar so that the shank fits over the presser foot pin.

4. Press down on presser foot screw until foot snaps into place.

To remove and replace shank of snap-on presser feet, follow instructions below for one-piece presser feet.

Changing One-Piece Presser Foot

Movable Arm.

One-Piece Presser Feet

1. Raise needle to its highest position and raise the presser foot.

2. Loosen presser foot screw and remove the

foot.

3. Hook new foot around the presser bar and tighten presser foot screw.

NOTE: When changing one-piece presser feet, you may insert the edge of a coin in the slot to tighten presser foot securely.

The Even Feed Foot

• Guide Even Feed foot into position from

back of machine, making sure the movable arm straddles the needle clamp. Tighten presser-foot screw securely with a coin.

Needle Clamp

Changing Even Feed Foot

NEEDLE PLATES

General purpose needle plate, in place in

your machine, can be used with all presser feet.

Straight stitch needle plate for use with the straight stitch presser foot.

Chainstitch needle plate is one of three ac cessories that must be used together for ohainstitching. For instructions, refer to “Chainstitching” beginning on page 35.

General Purpose Needle Plate

Feed cover plate for use when fabric feeding

is not desired.

CHANGING NEEDLE PLATE

NOTE: Remove bobbin if it contains thread in order to prevent thread being caught when needle plate is replaced.

1. Raise needle to its highest point and raise presser foot.

2. Open slide plate. Remove needle plate by

placing thumb under plate and lifting it up and out.

Straight Stitch Needle Plate

Chainstitch Needle Plate

3. Position new needle plate over the two pins and release. (Needle plate is drawn into

position by magnets.)

4. Close slide plate.

Changing Needle Plate

threading the machine

Place spool or tube of thread on horizontal spool pin. If spool has a retaining slit, the slit should be placed against the spool cushion to the right Select correct spool holder according to the type and diameter of spool being used. The diameter of the end of the spool holder should always be larger than that of the spool itself. Press holder firmly against spool to pre vent it from turning.

With two hands, slip thread horizontally between ten sion discs from the top.

ÍO Hold Small Tubes

To Hold Small Spools To Hold Large Spools

THREADIMG THE NEEDLE

With right hand, lead thread under thread guide on right side . . .

Turn hand wheel to raise take-up lever to its highest posi

... and, with left hand, lead

thread over spring and un der guide on left side.

tion, and raise presser foot to release the tension discs.

2, Lead thread through all points as shown, making sure to:

Use both hands and snap thread horizontally into thread

guide-post, making sure it enters eyelet fine thread

should be doubled for added strength.

Thread tension discs as illustrated at left. Thread take-up lever from back to front, guiding thread

Allow spring to return to its

normal up position and con

tinue threading the machine.

down over top of lever and then up into eyelet. Thread needle from front to back, drawing about four in

ches (10cm) of thread through eye of needle.

Note: Dotted lines in illustrations represent thread path hidden by machine.

WINDING THE BOBBIN

Push-button bobbin winding wiO make your sewing go faster than ever before — whether you are using a lot of one kind of thread or small quantities of blfierent threads.

You will find a bobbin in place under the slide plate of your machine. To open slide plate, simply slide it gently toward you. If the bobbin runs out of thread while you are sewing, you

can rewind it without removing it from the

machine-

Bobbin

preparation for Winding

l4 R I

r 1 Ti-i

Preparation Steps Make sure buttonhole dial is in OFF position.

1. Use genera! purpose, special purpose, or straight stitch presser foot.

2. Raise presser foot to release tension on

thread, and raise the needie to its highest

position. (Make sure your needle is a size

11 or larger).

3. Set needle position and stitch width dials at straight stitch setting indicated by

A symbols.

4. Open slide piate and make sure bobbin is empty. For removal of bobbin and thread, see page 16.

Wmdirsg Steps

1. Press bobbin push button to the left to engage it in winding position.

2. Wrap thread around pressar foot screw, and hold end of thread firmly.

3. Start the machine.

* Run the machine at a moderate speed. ♦ Pull thread end away after a few coils

have been wound.

• Keep your eye on the bobbin as it fills. Do

not allow thread to wind beyond the out side FULL ring.

4. Close slide plate to release push button to sewing position.

Turn to the next page for instructions on start ing to sew.

Winding Steps

Step 1

Do Not Allow

how to start sewing

How you begin to sew after winding a bobbin depends on whether your stitching is to start at or away from the edge of the fabric.

TO START AT FABRIC EDGE

♦ Position needle in very edge of fabric by

pressing speed controller lightly or turning the hand wheel

• Lower the presser foot and stitch. The con tinuous thread, leading from the needle to the bobbin, will 'lock” over the fabric edge.

TO START AWAY FROM FABRIC EDGE

• Puli thread back under presser foot and cut.

• Position needle in fabric where desired and stitch.

NOTE: Should the bobbin run out of thread

after you have begun a line of stitching, re

move the fabric, rewind the bobbin, and follow

the two immediately preceding steps.

Starting at Fabric Edge

with a Continuous Thread

Starting Away from Fabric Edge

Removing Bobbin

changing the bobbin

REMOVING THE BOBBIN

Raise needle to its highest position.

1. Open slide plate; leave bobbin push button in sewing position,

2. Raise bobbin latch by inserting fingernail under end of latch at center of bobbin.

Open Slide Plate and Raise Latch

/■^ f. V ' V -X

/ / /■ ;■' ’Vf^--:-. Ч Ч

/ / / ,/

Lift Out Bobbin

Replacing Empty Bobbin

.........

X .

V ■ ■

> У

7 ^

■:. < /

/ /

Slip Bobbin into Case

V —

.-г'-Л,

. '' '

3. Insert fingernail under rim of bobbin im mediately to right of latch and remove the bobbin.

REPLACING AN EMPTY BOBBIN

1. Make sure bobbin halves are securely tight

ened.

2. With latch raised, slip bobbin (wide side

up) into bobbin case. Then snap latch down to secure bobbin.

3. Leave the slide plate open until you have finished winding,

REMOVING THREAD FROM BOBBIN

■\

If there is not much thread left on the bobbin, you do not need to remove bobbin from ma chine— simply pull the thread end through the needle plate.

If there is a lot of thread left and you do not wish to reserve it by setting aside the bobbin for future use, remove the bobbin, unscrew the two halves, and remove all the thread at once.

Then screw the two halves together, tighten ing securely.

/ /'

■ <, /

f/ 'x..^;-^:r v-.

Snap Latch Down

/ \...

Removing Thread from Bobbin

REPLACING A WOUND BOBBIN

0':4K7r>

VVi

^ / / Insert Bobbin

Close Slide Plate

Raise needle to Its highest position.

1 Open slide plate; leave bobbin push button

in sewing position.

2. Draw about four inches {10cm) of thread from bobbin and place bobbin in case with thread leading off to right side of latch. Snap latch down to secure bobbin.

3. Close slide plate, allowing the thread to enter the slot in the slide plate. Then raise

the bobbin thread as instructed below.

RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD

1. Hold needle thread lightly with left hand

/■"o

and turn hand wheel slowly toward you so that needle enters needle plate,

2. Continue turning hand wheel until needle

rises and brings up bobbin thread in a loop.

Replacing a Wound Bobbin

Stepi

3. Undo the loop and place both threads under the presser foot, laying them diagonally to the right Position needle in fabric where desired, lower the presser foot and stitch.

Raising the Bobbin Thread

3. STRAIGHT STITCHING

Pattern: Straight Stitch

Needie Position: A Stitch Width: A Stitch Controi; To suit fabric

1 :... 4. ; A

Dials Set for Straight Stitching

Straight Stitch Needle Plate or General Purpose Needle Plate Straight Stitch Foot or General Purpose Foot

preparation

Before you set the dials for straight stitching,

turn the handwheel toward you untiltheneedle

is above the needle plate.

Straight Stitch Foot and Needle Plate

SETTING THE IVIACHINE

1. Set pattern dial selector at .

2. Move needle position dial to A .

3. Set stitch width dial on A .

4. Set stitch control for desired stitch length. For regular straight stitching, turn dial to a numbered setting; for straight stretch stitching, turn dial to

^ setting.

CHOOSING ACCESSORIES

Best results will be obtained if you use the straight stitch foot and needle plate. However, the general purpose foot and needle plate

may also be used.

starting to sew

* Place needle and bobbin threads under pres-

ser foot and draw to back of machine.

• Position the needle in the fabric where de

sired for stitching start.

♦ Lower the presser foot and start the machine. To sew perfectly on a wide variety of fabrics

adjust stitch length, pressure and thread ten sion as instructed on the following pages.

For information on straight stretch stitching, turn to page 52.

adjusting for your fabric

SETTING STITCH LENGTH

The stitch-controi dial regulates the length of

both straight and zig-zag stitches. The num

bers 6 to 20 represent the number of straight stitches per inch and the numbers 1 to 4 represent stitch length in milhnneters. Generally, shorter stitches are best for light weight fabric; longer ones for heavy fabric. Curved seams, bias-cut seams and scallops

require short straight stitches for elasticity and smooth contours. Bound buttonholes should be sewn with a short stitch for durability and strength.

The FINE area is used for the adjustment of zig-zag satin stitching (page 28} and speed basting {page 33}.

The ^ setting is used for straight-stretch stitching and Flexi-Stitch patterns. For infor mation on Flexi-Stitch patterns and straightstretch stitching, see pages 25 and 52.

Stitch Control Dial

• To set stitch control, turn dial until setting

desired is under the red line.

For reverse stitching, simply press reversestitch lever all the way down and hold in place.

Release lever for forward stitching.

REGULATING PRESSURE

The pressure dial regulates the pressure that

the presser foot exerts on the fabric. Correct

pressure is important because it means fabric feeds smoothly and evenly. The NORM (nor mal} setting Is an all-purpose setting that can

be used for sewing a wide variety of fabrics

of different weights and textures. Intermediate

notched settings, above and below NORM, are also provided. When you need extra con trol to sew very heavy fabric, use the MAX {maximum) setting.

Lower the presser foot before setting pressure.

♦ To increase pressure, turn dial from NORM

toward MAX.

• To decrease pressure, turn dial from NORM toward DARN.

♦ For darniing, set dial on DARN.

Decrease

Pressure Dial

Darning

Needle-Thread Tension

REGULATING NEEDLE-THREAD TEN SION

The tension dial regulates the degree of ten

sion on your needle thread. Set it according to the type of thread and fabric you use. The numbers on the dial are for reference and eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings.

Correct tension is important because too much or too little will weaken your seams or cause your fabric to pucker. Be sure your machine is threaded correctly and make a test sample with the fabric and thread you plan to use, and examine it.

A perfect stitch will have the needle and bob

bin threads locked between the two layers of

fabric with no loops on top or bottom and no

puckers.

To Decrease Tension

♦ If the top stitches in your test sample look

loose, increase needle-thread tension by

turning the dial to a higher number.

♦ If the fabric puckers, decrease needle-

thread tension by turning the dial to a lower

number.

sewing a seam

PIN BASTING

Pin basting is a time saver and can be used In place of hand basting when you are straight stitching seams in easy-to-handle fabric.

Use fine pins and place them so that:

• They are at right angles to the presser foot and just nip into the fabric at the stitching

line.

• They do not extend under both sides of the

presser foot. Never place pins on the under

side of the fabric in contact with the feed.

Pin Placement When Seam

and Hem Guide Is Not Used

Pin Placement

PLACING FABRIC

Most fabric can be placed under the presser foot by raising the presser-foot lifter to its normal up position. When placing bulky fab rics, such as coating, knit or terry cloth, or multiple fabric layers, you will find it conven ient to raise the presser-foot lifter to the highrise position. Hold lifter in position (since it does not lock) while placing fabric under the

presser foot Make sure the lifter is all the way

down before starting to sew.

Presser Foot Lifter Settings

starting a Seam

Stitching a Seam

Guiding and Supporting Fabric

Applying Gentle Tension

STARTING A SEAM

1. With presser foot raised, turn hand wheel toward you to position needle in fabric about

1/2 inch (1.3cm) from starting edge.Lower

the presser foot.

2. Press reverse-stitch lever all the way down and hold in place. Backstitch to edge of

fabric for reinforcement.

3. Release reverse-stitch lever and stitch in

forward direction.

GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC

Most fabrics need only to be guided in front of the presser foot Some fabrics, however, re quire support while being stitched, as shown. These fabrics require using the straight stitch

presser foot.

CAUTION: Do not puli the fabric while you are

stitching as this may deflect the needle, caus- ing it to break,

• For filmy sheers, knits, tricot, etc., apply gentle tension by holding seam in front and

back of the presser foot.

Applying Firm Tension

♦ For stretch fabrics, apply firm tension front

and back when stitching in the same direc

tion as the stretch. For seams not on the stretch direction, stitch in the conventional

manner, guiding fabric in front of the presser

foot.

KEEPING SEAMS STRAIGHT

To keep the seam straight, use one of the numbered guidelines on the needle plate. The numbers indicate distance, in eighths of an inch, from the needle. If you want a 5/8 inch f 1.6cm) seam, for example, line up your fabric with the number 5 guideline. Note that both number 5 guidelines (the most commonly used) are extended on the slide plate for your convenience: the crosslines serve as corner ing guides when stitching a square corner.

(9mm)

Vz"

(1.3cm)

(1.9cm)

(1.6cm)

TURNING SQUARE CORNERS

To turn a square corner 6/8 inch (1.6cm) from the fabric edge, you need not

measure or mark the seam. Simply use

the crosslines on the slide plate.

• tine up your fabric with right or left guideline 5 on the needle plate. Stitch seam, slowing speed as you approach corner.

Pivoting at Corner

• Stop stitching, with the needle down, when the bottom edge of the fabric

reaches the cornering crosslines on the

slide plate.

• Raise presser foot and turn fabric on

needle, bringing bottom edge of fabric in line with guideline 5.

• Lower the presser foot and stitch in new direction.

Fabric at Crosslines Fabric after Turning

CURVED SEAMS

1. Use a fairly short stitch for elasticity and strength. For example, if you use a medium stitch length for straight seams, select a slightly shorter stitch length to stitch curved seams in the same fabric.

2, If you use the seam guide to guide stitch

ing, attach it at an angle so that the edge that is closer to the needle acts as a guide.

TO ATTACH SEAM GUIDE

Fasten seam guide by securing guide screw into hole provided for it in machine bed.

To adjust the seam guide, loosen the guide

screw and slide the guide to the required seam width. Then tighten the guide screw.

REINFORCING END OF SEAM

1. Stitch to the edge of the fabric,

2. Press reverse-stitch lever all the way down and hold in place. Backstitch approx

imately 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) to reinforce end

of seam. Release lever.

Reverse-Stitch

Lever

3. Raise needle to its highest position, raise the presser foot, and remove the fabric by drawing it to the back and left.

4. Cut threads on thread cutter at rear of

presser bar.

Ending a Seam

Cutting Threads

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