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All rights loscfvcc! throughout the v>'orl<i
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CONTENTS |
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Page |
Chapter 1. |
Getting to Know Your Machine...................................................................................................................... |
2 |
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Principal Parts.................................................................................................................................................. |
2 |
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Accessories.................................................................................................................................................. |
3 |
Chapter 2. |
Getting Ready to Sew .................................................................................................................................. |
4 |
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Choosing and Changing Accessories......................................................................................................... |
4 |
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Fabric Weight Table............................................................................................................................... |
6 |
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Fabric Thread and Needle Table.............................................................................................................. |
8 |
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Needle-Fabric Combinations ..................................................................................................................... |
10 |
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Operating the Machine.................................................................................................................................. |
10 |
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The Bobbin Thread...................................................................................................................................... |
11 |
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Winding the Bobbin • Threading the Bobbin Case |
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Threading the Machine................................................................................................................................ |
13 |
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Raising the Bobbin Thread |
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Chapter 3. |
Straight Stitching......................................................................................................................................... |
,15 |
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Adjusting Machine Stitch to Suit Your Fabric.......................................................................................... |
15 |
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Setting Selectors • Regulating Presser Foot Pressure • |
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Adjusting Stitch Length • Needle-Thread Tension |
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Sewing a Seam........................................................................................................................................... |
17 |
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Keeping the Seam Straight |
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Applications .................................................................................................................................................. |
18 |
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Zipper Insertion • Darning |
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Chapter 4, Basic Zig-Zag Stitching.............................................................................................................................. |
19 |
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Adjusting Machine to Suit Your Fabric.................................................................................................. |
19 |
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How to Set Selectors • Pattern Group Selector • |
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Needle Position Selector • Stitch Width Selector • Adjusting Needle Tension « |
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Adjusting Stitch Length • Adjusting Presser Foot Pressure |
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Satin Stitching............................................................................................................................................... |
21 |
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Applications ................................................................................................................................................... |
22 |
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Appiiqub • Lingerie Seams • Zig-Zag Seam Finishes |
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Chapter 5. |
Machine Stitch Patterns............................................................................................................................... |
24 |
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Setting Selectors .... ................................................................................................................................... |
24 |
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Selecting a Pattern Group • Adjusting Width of the Design • Adjusting Stitch |
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Placement • Adjusting Stitch Length • Adjusting Stitch Balance |
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Adjusting Stitches to Suit Stretch Fabrics ............ .................................................................................. |
27 |
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Guiding and Supporting Fabric • Adjusting Pressure |
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Stitch Pattern Chart..................................................................................................................................... |
28 |
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Applications ................................................................................................................................................ |
29 |
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Blindstitch . ............................................................................................................................................... |
29 |
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Hems |
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Multi Stitch Zig-Zag....................................................................................................................................... |
30 |
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8'ar Tacks • Mending a Tear |
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Honeycomb Stitch ..................................................................................................................................... |
31 |
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Attaching Elastic |
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Chapter 6, |
Buttonholes and Buttons . ....... .................................................................................................................. |
32 |
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Four-Step Buttonholing................................................................................................................................ |
32 |
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Changing Stitch Density |
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Buttons......................................................................................................................................................... |
34 |
Chapter 7. |
Twin-Needle Stitching.................................................................................................................................. |
35 |
Chapter 8. |
Free-Arm Sewing........................................................................................................................................ |
38 |
Chapter 9. |
Performance Checklist................................................................................................................................. |
37 |
Chapter 10. Caring for Your Machine................................................................................................................................. |
38 |
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Index ...................................................................................................................................................................................... |
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40 |
1
accessories
Tho accessories that come with your sewing machine are designed to help you do many kinds of sewing easily,
1, Transparent Bobbins (No. 172336).
2.Needles
•Style 2020 is for general sewing.
•Style 2045 is used for sewing knits, stretch fabrics and elastic.
•Style 2025 for twin-needle decorative stitching on woven and knit fabrics.
3.Buttonhole Foot is used to make bar tack buttonholes of any length in four steps.
4.Special Purpose Foot. Used for all kinds of decorative zig-zag stitching.
5.Zipper Foot for inserting zippers and stitch ing corded seams.
6.General Purpose Fool on your machine when delivered, is used for ail utility sew ing, with either straight or zig-zag stitching.
7.General Purpose Needle Plate on your machine when delivered is used with ail presser feet.
8.Snap-in Feed Cover for button sewing and free-motion work.
9.Spool Pin Extension used for tubes of thread.
10.Blindstitch Hem Guide. Use this with the general purpose foot to position and guide the hem.
11.Detachable Spool Pin for decorative twinneedle stitching and two-thread topstitch-
ing.
12. Felt to help thread unwind smoothly.
}1
o
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choosing and changing accessories
CHANGING THE NEEDLE
♦ |
Raise needle to its highest |
point |
by |
turning |
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the hand wheel toward you. Loosen needle |
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clamp screw A and remove the needle. |
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Insert new |
needle |
up |
into |
clamp |
B |
as far |
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as it will go. |
with |
the |
fiat side of |
the |
needle |
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to the back. |
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Hat Side to Back
« Tighten needie clamp screw.
CHANGING PRESSER FEET
Snap-on Presser Feet
The presser feet furnished with snap on and off a common shank.
your machine Raise needle to highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you. Raise presser foot.
To Remove and Replace Foot
la. Press toe of pressor foot upward as far as 1b. Then snap down to remove, it will go.
;2. Centre the new presser foot under the shank 3. Press presser foot screw down firmly until C and lower the pressor foot lifter so that foot snaps into place,
the shank fits over the presser foot pin.
REMOVING AND REPLACING NEEDLE PLATE
•Raise presser foot.
•Raise needle to highest position.
•Open slide plate. Place thumb under right
side of needle plate, lift it up and withdraw it to right.
• Replace needle plate under clamping pin A, push it gently to the left and press down until it snaps into place.
ATTACHING SNAP-IN FEED COVER
•Raise presser foot.
•Raise needle to highest position by turning hand wheel toward you. Open slide plate.
•Slide snap-in feed cover away from you over needle plate until points B and C are
positioned directly over holes in needle plate as iiiustrated. Snap in point B. Then push point C in toward point B until it snaps into place. Close slide plate. To remove, open slide plate then simply lift up front edge of feed cover.
ATTACHING BLINDSTITCH HEM GUIDE
•Raise presser foot, loosen presser foot screw with a coin and slip blindstitch hem guide between screw and shank of the general purpose foot.
•Be sure underside of the guide clears the slide plate and front of foot.
•Tighten screw with a coin.
FABRIC WEIGHT TABLE
There are many types of |
fabrics around the world, each |
manufactured |
with a specific fibre and |
weight. The fabric below |
have been classified according |
to weight to |
give a small sample of |
what is available for purchase. |
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FIBRE |
FILMY |
SHEER |
AND |
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CONSTRUCTION |
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SILK |
Chiffon, |
Net, Lace, Ninon |
(Woven) |
Organza, |
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Tulle |
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(Knit) |
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RAYON |
Tulle |
Net, Lace |
(Woven) |
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(Knit) |
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COTTON (Woven)
(Knit)
WOOL (Woven)
(Knit)
SYNTHgTIC (Woven)
(Knit)
SYNTHETIC BLENDS (Woven)
(Knit)
LEATHER
PLASTIC
Voile. |
Net, Lace |
Tulle |
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Chiffon, |
Net, Lace, Ninon, |
Organza, |
Crepe de Chine |
Tulle |
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Volte
Piastic Film
Velvet, Crepe de Chine, Shantung. Faille
Jersey
Velvet, Taffeta, Satin
Ciré
Chains, Organdy, Muslin, Batiste, Dimity,
Lawn, Percale, Eyelet, Gingham, Piqué,
Poplin
Jersey
Cashmere. Flannel, Mohair, Felt, Crepe
Jersey
Crepe, Velvet, Taffeta, Satin
Raschol, Single Knit, Sweater Knit,
Bonded Knit, Tricot, Ciré
Broadcloth, Batiste, Eyelet, Gingham,
Poplin
Single Knit
Kidskifi, Patent, Chamois, Imitation-
Leathers & Suedes, Leather, Suede
Piastic Film
VINYLS
Refer to this table to determine the weight and type of fabric you will bo using in order to select the correct needle and thread combination.
For correct needle and thread combination for your fabric, refer to the Fabric. Thread and Needle Table on the following page.
Velvet. Crepe de Chine. Shantung, Suiting, Brocade
Velvet. Taffeta, Satin, Crepe
Velveteen, Corduroy, Velvet. Fleece,
Velour, Terry, Chintz
Stretch Veiours'% Stretch Terry-'*'
A U$uaify contain some synliiottc tibres also.
Suiting, Flannel, Gabardine, Feit,
Sorgo, Mohair
Jersey
Velvet, Crepe, Taffeta, Satin.
Gabardine
Jacquard, Double Knit, Sweater Knit,
Bonded Knit, Tricot. Spandex, Stretch
Terry, Stretch Velour, Deep Pile, Fake
Furs
Linen Type, Poplin, Corduroy,
Gabardine
Terry Knit
Patent, Imitation-Leathers & Suedes,
Leather, Suede, Replite
: -HEévv \ |
VERY HEAVY |
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Brocade. Taffeta, Satin. Crepe
Corduroy, Denim, Ticking. Canvas,
Linen. Drapery Fabric, Burlap
Suiting, Tweed, Duffle
Double Knit, Heienca, Fake Furs
Denim, Gabardine, Drapery Fabric
Double Knit
Denim, Duck,
Canvas, Sailcloth.
Upholstery Fabric
Coating, Blanketing
Buckskin, Calfskin. Suede, Beptite Upholstery Leather
Bonded Vinyl (Knit Back), Patent, |
Uphoistory Vinyl |
Upholstery Vinyl |
Embossed, Printed |
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FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE TABLE
Choosing the correct needle and thread for your fabric is of utmost importance. Correct choice wilt make the difference in the wear and appearance of your new garment. The Fabric Weight Table on the previous page, and the Fabric. Thread and Needle Table below are practical guides to needle and thread selection. Refer to them before starting a sewing project. Be sure to use the same size and type of thread in both needle and bobbin.
To select the correct needle and thread for your fabric, first refer to the Fabric Weight Table to determine the weight and type of the material you are using.
Next, refer to the Fabric Thread and Needle Table.
TYPE
OF
SILK
RAYON
OOTTON
WOOL
SYNTHETIC
SYNTHETIC BLENDS
LEATHER
PLASTIC
VINYLS
FILMY
THREADS j ^NEEDLES
Fine Silk |
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Fino Mercerizocl |
2020-9 |
Fino Silk |
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Fine Mercerized |
2020-9 |
Fine Cotton |
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Fine Mercerized |
2020-9 |
Fine Synthetic |
2020-9 |
-Fine Synthetic |
2020-9 |
SHEER |
j LIGHT |
; IHHEAUS % lEEOLES |
1 THREADS 1 NEEDLES |
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Fine Silk |
2020-9 |
Fine Mercerized |
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Fine Silk |
2020-9 |
Fine Mercerized |
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Fine Cotton |
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Fine Mercerized |
2020-9 |
Fine Silk |
2020-11 |
Fine Mercerized |
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Fine Synthetic |
2020-9 ” |
Fine Synthetic |
2020-9 |
Fine Silk |
2020-11 |
Fine Mercerized |
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Fine Silk |
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Fine Mercerized |
2020-11 |
Medium Cotton |
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Med. Mercerized |
2020-11 |
Fine Silk |
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Fine Mercerized |
2020-11 |
Fine Synthetic |
^ 2045-11 ^ |
Fine Synthetic |
2045-11 |
Med, Mercerized |
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Med. Synthetic |
2032-11 |
Fine Mercerized |
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Fine Synthetic |
2020-11 |
Fine Mercerized |
2020-T1 |
Fine Synthetic |
Find the fabric you are using in Type of Fabric column at left (silk, rayon, etc.). Then locate the fabric weight column (filmy, sheer, etc.) for your fabric at top of table. Read across from Type of Fabric column to correct weight of fabric column. There, the correct thread and needle choice for your fabric will bo found.
Example: If you are sewing a medium weight wool, find wool in Type of Fabric column. Read across to Medium (weight) column and you will see that a medium silk or mercerized thread and a size 2020-14 needle are to be used.
You should follow the recommendations in this instruction book and on the needle package for correct stylo and size of needle for different types and weights of fabric.
Medium Silk |
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Heavy Silk |
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Medium Mercerized |
2020-11 |
Heavy Mercerized |
2020-14 |
Heavy Silk |
2020-14 |
Medium Synthetic |
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Heavy Synthetic |
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Heavy Synthetic |
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Medium Mercerized |
2020-11 |
Heavy Mercerized |
2020-14 |
Heavy Mercerized |
2020-14 |
Medium Cotton |
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Heavy Cotton |
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Heavy Cotton |
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Medium Mercerized |
2020-14 |
Heavy Mercerized |
2020-16 |
Heavy Mercerized |
2020-18 |
Medium Silk |
2020-14 |
Heavy Mercerized |
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Medium Mercerized |
2020-16 |
Heavy Mercerized |
2020-16 |
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Medium Synthetic |
2045-14 |
Heavy Synthetic |
2045-16 |
Heavy Synthetic |
2020-16 or 18 |
Medium Synthetic |
: 2045-14 ; |
Heavy Synthetic |
2045-16 |
Heavy Synthetic |
2020-16 or 18 |
Medium Mercerized |
; 2032-14 |
Heavy Mercerized |
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Heavy Mercerized |
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Medium Synthetic |
Heavy Synthetic, |
2032-16; |
Heavy Synthetic |
2032-18 |
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Medium Mercerized |
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Medium Mercerized |
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Heavy Mercerized |
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Medium Synthetic |
2020-11 |
Medium Synthetic |
2020-14 |
Heavy Synthetic |
2020-16 |
Medium Mercerized |
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Medium Mercerized |
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Heavy Mercerized |
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Medium Synthetic |
2020-11 |
Medium Synthetic |
2020-14 |
Heavy Synthetic |
2020-16 |
needie-fabric combinations
Correct needle selection is closely related to stitch quality and appearance. Damaged fabric is almost always caused by a needle that is bent, burred or that is an inappropriate style for the fabric and thread you are using.
The three types of needles most commonly used are the regular, ball point, and wedge. To obtain good results, the correct size and type of needle for the fabric and thread you are using must bo chosen. Refer to the Fabric,
Thread and Needle Table, page 8.
Result of Using a Bent Needle
operating the machine
CONNECTING MACHINE
•Before plugging in your machine, be sure the electrical information on the side of the machine A, below the hand wheel agrees with the range marked on your electrical meter.
•Connect plug B to machine and plug C to your socket outlet.
•To turn the machine attd light on or off, press switch as shown.
•To run the machine and control speed, press the speed controller D with your foot. The
speed controller has electronic circuitry which provides constant speed and constant penetration when sewing on fabrics of vary ing thickness. The harder you press, the faster the machine will sew,
CAUTION: Disconnect the power line plug from the socket outlet when changing needles, feet or needle plates or when leaving the machine unattended. This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine by accidentally pressing the speed controller.
the bobbin thread
Your sowing machine uses two threads to form a stitch. The upper thread comes from the spool and is threaded through the eye of the needle. The lower thread comes from the bob bin. Wind the bobbin before threading the machine.
WINDING THE BOBBIN
Preparation Steps
1.Raise the presser foot and turn hand wheel toward you until needle is in highest po sition.
2.Loosen hand wheel knob A by turning it to ward you with the right hand while holding hand wheel with the left hand.
3.Open slide plate and lift out bobbin.
4.Place spool pin felt on pin.
Winding Steps
• Place thread spool on spool pin with thread retaining slit B on top. (Break paper at the end of spool if necessary). If you are using a tube of thread affix spool pin extension to spool pin to ensure even flow of thread,
• Load thread around bobbin winder tension disc C and through small hole in bobbin from inside out. •
•Place bobbin on spindle and push bobbin to right to engage bobbin winder.
•Hold thread end as shown and start the ma chine. Cut off thread end after a few coils have been wound.
•When required amount of thread has been wound (winding will stop when bobbin is full), stop the machine and cut connecting thread.
•Push bobbin to left and remove bobbin from spindle.
•Hold hand wheel and tighten hand wheel knob.
THREADÍNG THE BOBBIN CASE
1. Hold bobbin so that thread unwinds in the direction shown, and put bobbin into bobbin case.
2. Pull thread into notch A, draw it back under the tension spring and back into slot B.
3. Draw approximately 10 cm {4 inches) of thread across the bobbin.
4. Close slide plate allowing thread to enter slot between the needle plate and slide plate.
12
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