Ford Fiesta 1995 User Manual

1•1

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

1

Contents

Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Automatic transmission fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Door, tailgate and bonnet check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Driveshaft rubber gaiter and CV joint check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Emission control system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Engine compartment wiring check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Front wheel alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Handbrake adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	27
Idle speed and mixture check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	9
Idle speed control valve cleaning and maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . .	22
Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	2
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	1
Manual transmission oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	8
Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	19
Roadwheel nut tightness check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	15
Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	17
Spark plug renewal and HT component check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	21
Steering, suspension and roadwheel check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	10
Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	29
Underbody and fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	13
Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . . . . . . . . . .	5
Valve clearance adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	7

Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable for

1

Fairly easy, suitable

2

Fairly difficult,

3

Difficult, suitable for

4

Very difficult,

5

novice with little

for beginner with

suitable for competent

experienced DIY

suitable for expert DIY

experience

some experience

DIY mechanic

mechanic

or professional

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1•2 Servicing Specifications

Lubricants and fluids

Refer to end of “Weekly Checks”

Capacities

Engine oil
At oil and filter change:
HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	3.25 litres
CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	3.50 litres
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	4.25 litres
Difference between dipstick minimum and maximum level notches . . .	0.5 to 1.0 litre
Cooling system
HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	7.1 litres
CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	7.6 litres
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	7.0 litres
Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	42.0 litres
Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	3.1 litres
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	3.5 litres

Engine

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)
Oil filter:
HCS, CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Champion C104
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Champion C148

Cooling system

Coolant protection at standard 40% antifreeze/water mixture ratio:
Slush point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	-25ºC (-13ºF)
Solidifying point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	-30ºC (-22ºF)
Coolant specific gravity at standard 40% antifreeze/water
mixture ratio and 15ºC/59ºF - with no other additives in coolant . . . . .	1.061

Fuel system

Idle speed*:
1.0, 1.1 and 1.3 litre HCS (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	750	± 50 rpm (cooling fan running)
1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines:
Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	800	± 50 rpm (cooling fan running)
CTX automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	850	± 50 rpm (cooling fan running)
1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel injection) engines:
Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	900	± 50 rpm
Base idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	750	± 50 rpm
Idle mixture CO content*:
1.0, 1.1 and 1.3 litre HCS (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	1.0	± 0.5%
1.4 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	1.5	± 0.25%
1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	1.5	± 0.5%
1.6 litre CVH (fuel injection) engines:
Non turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	0.8	± 0.25%
Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	1.5	± 0.25%

*Note: The idle speed and mixture CO content is only adjustable on the engines shown above. On all other engines, it is controlled by the engine management system, and cannot be checked or adjusted without specialised test equipment.

Air filter element:

1.0, 1.1 and 1.3 litre HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Champion W153
1.4 litre CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Champion W226
1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Champion W226
1.6 litre CVH (fuel injection) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Champion U557
1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Champion U612
Fuel filter:
HCS, CVH (fuel injection) and PTE engines:
Without quick-release fuel line fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Champion L204
With quick-release fuel line fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Champion type not available
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Champion L218

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

	Servicing Specifications 1•3
Ignition system
Firing order:
HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	1-2-4-3 (No 1 cylinder at timing chain end of engine)
All other engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end of engine)
Spark plugs*:
HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Champion RS9YCC or RS9YC
1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Champion RC7YCC or RC7YC
1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel injection) and PTE engines
Non-turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Champion RC7YCC4 or RC7YC4
Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Champion C61YC
1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Champion RE7YCC
Electrode gap*:
HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	1.0 mm
1.4 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	0.8 mm
1.4 litre CVH (CFi fuel injection) and PTE engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	1.0 mm
1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines:
With Champion RC7YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	0.8 mm
With Champion RC7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	0.7 mm
1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel injection) engines:
Non-turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	1.0 mm
Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	0.7 mm
1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	1.3 mm
Spark plug (HT) leads:
HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Champion LS-28
1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH (carburettor) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Champion LS-14
1.4 litre CVH (CFi fuel injection) and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Champion LS-14
1.6 litre CVH (EFi fuel injection) engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Champion LS-26
1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Champion type not available		1
Maximum resistance per lead	30 000 ohms

* Information on spark plug types and electrode gaps is as recommended by Champion Spark Plug. Where alternative types are used, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations.

Braking system

Minimum front brake pad lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	1.5 mm
Minimum rear brake shoe lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	1.0 mm

Tyres

Tyre pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Weekly Checks”

Wiper blades

Windscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Champion X-4803
Tailgate/rear window . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Champion X-4103

Torque wrench settings	Nm	lbf ft
Auxiliary drivebelt cover fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	8	6
Auxiliary drivebelt adjustment:
Adjusting bolt (sliding arm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	22	16
Central (locking) bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	22	16
Pinion (adjuster) nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	12	9
Alternator mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	24	18
Tensioner pulley centre bolt (HCS engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	20	15
Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	24	18
Manual transmission filler/level plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	20	15
Spark plugs:
HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	18	13
CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	24	18
Zetec engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	15	11
Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	71 to 100	52 to 74

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1•4 Maintenance schedule

The maintenance schedule for these vehicles, based on the manufacturer’s recommendations, is as described below - note that the schedule starts from the vehicle’s date of registration. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the factory for Fiestas driven daily, but subjected only to “normal” use. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures even more often. Because frequent maintenance enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle, we encourage you to do so. If your usage is not “normal”, shorter intervals

are also recommended - the most important examples of these are noted in the schedule. These shorter intervals apply particularly if you drive in dusty areas, tow a caravan or trailer, sit with the engine idling or drive at low speeds for extended periods (ie, in heavy traffic), or drive for short distances (less than four miles) in below-freezing temperatures.

When your vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a Ford dealer service department to protect the factory warranty. In many cases, the initial maintenance check is done at no cost to the owner. Note that this first free service (carried out by the selling dealer

1500 miles or 3 months after delivery), although an important check for a new vehicle, is not part of the regular maintenance schedule, and is therefore not mentioned here.

It should be noted that for the 1992 model year, for all models except RS Turbo, the service time/mileage intervals were extended by the manufacturer to the periods shown in this schedule. Although these intervals can be applied retrospectively, owners of earlier vehicles may notice a discrepancy between this schedule and the one shown in the Service Guide supplied with the vehicle.

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

m Refer to “Weekly Checks”.

Every 5000 miles (8000 km) or

6 months, whichever occurs first

Note: Frequent oil and filter changes are good for the engine. We recommend changing the oil at the mileage specified here, or at least twice a year if the mileage covered is less.

m Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3).

Every 10 000 miles (16 000 km) or 12 months, whichever occurs first

Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:

mCheck the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 4).

mCheck under the bonnet for fluid leaks and hose condition (Section 5).

mCheck the condition of all engine compartment wiring (Section 6).

mCheck the valve clearance adjustment - HCS engines only (Section 7).

mCheck the manual transmission oil level (Section 8).

mCheck the engine idle speed and mixture - HCS and CVH engines only, where possible (Section 9).

mCheck the steering, suspension and roadwheels (Section 10).

mCheck the driveshaft rubber gaiters and CV joints (Section 11).

mCheck the exhaust system (Section 12).

mCheck the underbody, and all fuel/brake lines (Section 13).

mCheck the brake system (Section 14).

mCheck the security of all roadwheel nuts (Section 15).

mCheck the doors, tailgate and bonnet, and lubricate their hinges and locks (Section 16).

mCheck the seat belts (Section 17).

mCheck the condition of the bodywork, paint and exterior trim (Section 18).

mRoad test (Section 19).

mCheck the automatic transmission fluid level (Section 20).

Every 20 000 miles (32 000 km) or two years, whichever occurs first

Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:

mRenew the spark plugs and check the condition of the HT leads - all engines except Zetec (Section 21).

mClean the idle speed control valve (Weber type) - CVH EFi engines only (Section 22).

Every 30 000 miles (48 000 km) or three years, whichever occurs first

Carry out all operations listed above, plus the following:

mRenew the coolant (Section 23).

mRenew the air cleaner filter element and check the air cleaner temperature control system - carburettor engines only (Section 24).

mCheck the emission control systems (Section 25).

mRenew the spark plugs and check the condition of the HT leads - Zetec engines (Section 21).

mRenew the automatic transmission fluid (Section 26).

mCheck the handbrake adjustment (Section 27).

mCheck the front wheel alignment (Section 28).

Note: If the vehicle is used regularly in dusty or polluted conditions, the air cleaner filter element should be renewed at more frequent intervals.

Every 40 000 miles

m Renew the timing belt - CVH and PTE engines only (Section 29).

Every 60 000 miles

mRenew the timing belt - Zetec engines only (Section 29).

mRenew the fuel filter (Section 30).

Every three years (regardless of mileage)

m Renew the brake fluid (Section 31).

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Maintenance – component location 1•5

1.1 litre HCS carburettor engine (air cleaner removed for clarity)

1Engine oil filler cap

2Engine oil level dipstick

3Cooling system expansion tank

4Brake fluid reservoir

5Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir cap

6Battery

7Vehicle identification plate

8Thermostat housing

9Radiator cooling fan thermal switch multiplug

10Alternator

11Starter motor solenoid

12CTX automatic transmission fluid level dipstick

13Exhaust heatshield/airbox

14Brake pressure control valves

15Top of suspension strut mounting assembly

16Carburettor

17Fuel feed hose

18Anti-dieselling (fuel-cut off) solenoid connection

19Throttle kicker

20Throttle kicker control solenoid

21Ignition module

22Heater blower motor cover

23Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket

1

1.4 litre CVH CFi fuel injection engine (air cleaner removed for clarity)

1 Engine oil filler cap

2 Engine oil level dipstick

3 Cooling system expansion tank

4 Brake fluid reservoir

5 Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir cap

6 Battery

7 Vehicle identification plate

8 Thermostat housing

9 Pre-heat tube

10 Timing belt cover

11 Distributor

12 Fuel filter

13 Heater blower motor cover

14 Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket

15 Jack and wheelbrace retaining bolt

16 Top of suspension strut mounting assembly

17 EEC IV engine management module cover

18 CFi unit

19 Fuel injector

20 Fuel pressure regulator

21 Throttle plate control motor

22 Carbon canister

23 Manifold absolute pressure sensor

24 Ignition module

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1•6 Maintenance – component location

1.6 litre (XR2i) CVH EFi fuel injection engine

1 Engine oil filler cap

2 Engine oil level dipstick

3 Cooling system expansion tank

4 Brake fluid reservoir

5 Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir cap

6 Battery

7 Vehicle identification plate

8 Thermostat housing

9 Timing belt cover

10 Top of suspension strut mounting assembly

11 Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket

12 Jack and wheelbrace retaining bolt

13 Distributorless (E-DIS) ignition coil

14 Fuel filter

15 Air cleaner

16 Air inlet duct

17 Idle speed control valve

18 Fuel pressure regulator

19 Throttle housing

20 Upper section of inlet manifold

21 Intake air temperature sensor

22 Fuel trap

23 EEC IV engine management module cover

24 Manifold absolute pressure sensor

25 Ignition module

1.8 litre (XR2i) Zetec SEFi fuel injection engine

1Engine oil filler cap

2Engine oil level dipstick

3Cooling system expansion tank

4Braking system fluid reservoir

5Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir cap

6Battery

7VIN plate

8Thermostat housing

9Timing belt cover

10Top of suspension strut mounting assembly

11Windscreen wiper motor mounting bracket

12Jack and wheelbrace retaining bolt

13Distributorless (E-DIS) ignition coil

14Fuel filter

15Air cleaner

16Air inlet duct

17Idle speed control valve

18Fuel pressure regulator

19Throttle housing

20Inlet manifold

21Throttle position sensor

22Fuel system pressure release/test point

23EEC IV engine management module cover

24Mass air flow sensor

25Ignition module

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Maintenance – component location 1•7

Front underside view of the 1.4 litre CVH CFi fuel injection model

1Engine oil sump

2Front suspension lower arm

3Brake caliper assembly

4Driveshaft

5Alternator

6Auxiliary drivebelt cover

7Steering rack gaiter

8Windscreen/tailgate washer pump

9Carbon canister

10Oxygen sensor

11Catalytic converter (exhaust) rubber insulator mounting

12Catalytic converter assembly

13Underbody heatshields

14Gearchange mechanism shift rod

15Gearchange mechanism stabiliser bar

1

Front underside view of the 1.8 litre (XR2i) Zetec SEFi fuel injection model

1 Engine oil drain plug

2 Front suspension lower arm

3 Brake caliper assembly

4 Driveshaft

5 Alternator

6 Auxiliary drivebelt cover

7 Horn

8 Windscreen/tailgate washer pump

9 Carbon canister

10 Oxygen sensor

11 Front suspension crossmember

12 Catalytic converter

13 Underbody heat shields

14 Gearchange mechanism shift rod

15 Gearchange mechanism stabiliser bar

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1•8 Maintenance – component location

Rear underside view of the 1.4 litre CVH CFi fuel injection model

1 Fuel tank

2 Fuel filler pipe

3 Fuel tank ventilation hose

4 Twist beam rear axle assembly

5 Underbody heatshields

6 Exhaust rear silencer

7 Exhaust rubber insulator mounting

8 Load apportioning valves (on vehicles with the anti-lock braking system)

9 Handbrake cable

10 Rear towing eye

11 Spare wheel carrier hook (on the retaining bolt)

Rear underside view of the Courier van model

1Fuel tank

2Fuel filler pipe

3Fuel tank ventilation hose

4Rear axle assembly - spring torsion bars visible

5Rear axle pivot brackets

6Rear suspension dampers

7Exhaust system rear silencer

8Braking system light-laden valve

9Handbrake cables

10Rear towing eye

11Spare wheel carrier

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Maintenance procedures 1•9

1 Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance.

This Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components.

Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals will not produce the same results.

As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can - and should - be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust should be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components.

The first step of this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the

Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather together all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist or a dealer service department.

2 Intensive maintenance

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised.

2It is possible that there will be some times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals.

3If engine wear is suspected, a compression test (refer to Part A, B or C of Chapter 2) will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a

waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work (Chapter 2D) is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations

a)Clean, inspect and test the battery (See “Weekly Checks”).

b)Check all the engine-related fluids (See “Weekly Checks”).

c)Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 4).

d)Check and if necessary adjust the valve clearances on HCS engines (Section 7).

e)Renew the spark plugs and clean and inspect the HT leads (Section 21).

f)Check the condition of the air cleaner filter element and renew if necessary (Section 24).

g)Check and if necessary adjust the idle speed and mixture settings - where applicable (Section 9).

h)Renew the fuel filter - fuel injection models (Section 30).

i)Check the condition of all hoses, and check for fluid leaks (Section 5).

5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following operations:

Secondary operations

All the items listed under “Primary 1 operations”, plus the following:

a)Check the charging system (Chapter 5A).

b)Check the ignition system (Chapter 5B).

c)Check the fuel system (Chapter 4A, 4B,

4C and 4D).

e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 21).

Every 5000 miles (8000 km) or 6 months, whichever occurs first

3 Engine oil and filter renewal 1

Frequent oil changes are the best preventive

maintenance the home mechanic can give the

engine, because ageing oil becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

1Make sure that you have all the necessary tools before you begin this procedure (see illustration). You should also have plenty of rags or newspapers handy, for mopping up any spills.

2To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work.

3 Access to the underside of the vehicle is greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on a hoist, driven onto ramps, or supported by axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).

Warning: Do not work under a vehicle which is supported only by an hydraulic or scissors-type jack, or by bricks, blocks of wood, etc.

changing the engine oil and filter

4If this is your first oil change, get under the vehicle and familiarise yourself with the position of the engine oil drain plug location in the sump. The engine and exhaust components will be warm during the actual work, so try to anticipate any potential problems while the engine and accessories are cool.

5The oil should preferably be changed when the engine is still fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature, just after a run (the needle on the temperature gauge should be in the “Normal” sector of the gauge); warm oil and sludge will flow out more easily. Park the vehicle on firm, level ground, apply the handbrake firmly, then select 1st or reverse gear (manual transmission) or the “P” position (automatic transmission). Open the bonnet and remove the engine oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover, then remove the oil level dipstick from its tube (see “Weekly Checks”).

6Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the front righthand roadwheel to provide access to the oil

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1•10 Every 5000 miles or 6 months

sump on HCS, CVH and PTE engines

on the Zetec engine

filter; if the additional working clearance is required, remove also the auxiliary drivebelt cover.

7 Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust components, place the drain pan under the drain plug, and unscrew the plug (see illustrations). If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns.

As the drain plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply, so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the pan, not up your sleeve!

8 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the pan as the oil flow slows to a trickle. Check the condition of the plug’s sealing washer and renew it if worn or damaged. When the oil has completely drained, wipe clean the drain plug and its threads in the sump and refit the plug, tightening it to the specified torque wrench setting.

9 Reposition the drain pan under the oil filter then, using a suitable filter removal tool,

unscrew the oil filter from the cylinder block, oil pump or oil filter adaptor, as applicable; be prepared for some oil spillage (see illustration). Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the engine; if it has, carefully remove it. Withdraw the filter through the wheel arch, taking care to spill as little oil as possible.

10Using a clean, lint-free rag, wipe clean the cylinder block around the filter mounting. If there are no specific instructions supplied with it, fit a new oil filter as follows. Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the filter’s sealing ring (see illustration). Screw the filter into position until it seats, then tighten it through a further halfto three-quarters of a turn only (see illustration). Tighten the filter by hand only - do not use any tools.

11Remove the old oil and all tools from under the vehicle, refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to the ground.

12Refill the engine with oil, using the correct grade and type of oil, as given in “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to run to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time, until the level is up to the lower notch on the

engine using a strap wrench

dipstick. Adding approximately 0.5 to 1.0 litre (depending on model) will raise the level to the dipstick’s upper notch.

13Start the engine. The oil pressure warning light will take a few seconds to go out while the new filter fills with oil; do not race the engine while the light is on. Run the engine for a few minutes, while checking for leaks around the oil filter seal and the drain plug.

14Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter now completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.

15Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to “General repair procedures” in the Reference Sections of this manual.

Note: It is antisocial and illegal to dump oil down the drain. To find the location of your local oil recycling bank, call this number free.

3.10a Lubricate the filter’s sealing ring with clean engine oil	3.10b Fitting the new oil filter on the Zetec engine
before installing the filter on the engine

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Every 10 000 miles or 12 months 1•11

4.4 Check the auxiliary drivebelt for signs of wear like these. Very small cracks across the drivebelt ribs are acceptable. If the cracks are deep, or if the drivebelt looks worn or damaged in any other way, renew it. This is the “polyvee” type belt, but the checks on the V-belt type are the same

cover from inside the wheel arch

Every 10 000 miles (16 000 km) or 12 months, whichever comes first

4Auxiliary drivebelt check and 2 renewal

General

1The number of auxiliary drivebelts fitted and their type depends on engine, and on whether the vehicle is equipped with power steering. The drivebelt(s) are located on the right-hand end of the engine and will be either of the V- belt type or the flat, multi-ribbed (or “polyvee”) type. The belt drives the alternator, water pump and, on CVH and Zetec engines with power steering, the power steering pump from the engine’s crankshaft pulley. On HCS engines with power steering, one belt drives the alternator and water pump and a separate belt drives the power steering pump.

2The good condition and proper tension of the auxiliary drivebelt is critical to the operation of the engine. Because of their composition and the high stresses to which they are subjected, drivebelts stretch and deteriorate as they get older. They must, therefore, be regularly inspected.

Check

3 With the engine switched off, open and support the bonnet, then locate the auxiliary drivebelt(s) on the right-hand end of the engine (Be very careful, and wear protective gloves to minimise the risk of burning your hands on hot components, if the engine has recently been running). For improved access, jack up the front right-hand side of the vehicle, support it securely on an axle stand, remove the roadwheel, then (where fitted) remove the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from inside the wheel arch (see illustration).

4 Using an inspection light or an electric torch, and rotating the engine when necessary with a spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt, check the whole length of the

drivebelt(s) for cracks, separation of the rubber, and torn or worn ribs (see illustration). Also check for fraying and glazing, which gives the drivebelt a shiny appearance. Both sides of the drivebelt(s) should be inspected, which means you will have to twist the drivebelt(s) to check the underside. Feel the relevant drivebelt where you can’t see it. If you are in any doubt as to the condition of the drivebelt(s), renewal is necessary (go to paragraph 23).

Turning the engine will be much easier if the spark plugs are removed first (Section 21).

Drivebelt tension

5The tension must be adjusted manually on all V-belt type drivebelts, on flat “polyvee” type drivebelts fitted to early Zetec engines, and on “polyvee” type drivebelts fitted to HCS engines to drive the power steering pump. The “polyvee” type drivebelts used on later Zetec engines and PTE engines are fitted with an automatic tensioner to maintain the correct belt adjustment.

6For models on which the tension can be adjusted manually, open the bonnet. Jack up

4.7 Checking drivebelt adjustment - V-belt types

Note that the 4 mm dimension is the total belt swing and is equal to 2 mm of deflection

the front right-hand side of the vehicle, and support it securely on an axle stand. Remove the roadwheel, then (where fitted) remove the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from inside the wheel arch.

7 Ford technicians use a special tension gauge and various other special tools for checking drivebelt adjustment, but for DIY purposes,

checking the belt tension using finger pressure 1 gives a good indication of correct adjustment. Apply firm finger pressure midway between the pulleys on the longest run of the belt, and look

for a deflection of approximately 2.0 mm (i.e. a total drivebelt “swing” of approximately 4.0 mm) (see illustration).

8 If adjustment is necessary, proceed as follows according to belt type.

V-belt with sliding arm type adjuster

9 Loosen off the alternator mounting bolts and sliding arm adjustment bolts, pivot the alternator as required to provide the correct drivebelt tension, then retighten the bolts to secure (see illustration).

10Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground.

11Run the engine for about five minutes, then recheck the tension.

bolt (A) and sliding arm mounting bolt (B) - V-belt with sliding arm type adjuster

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1•12 Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

4.12a Rack-and-pinion type auxiliary drivebelt adjuster

AAdjuster arm

BPinion (adjuster) nut

CCentral (locking) bolt

V-belt and flat “polyvee” type drivebelt with rack-and-pinion type adjuster

12Loosen off the alternator mounting bolts and the adjusting arm mounting bolt. Slacken the pinion central locking bolt, and turn the pinion nut as required to take up the tension of the drivebelt. Hold it at the required setting, and tighten the central bolt securely to lock the adjuster arm and set the tension (see illustrations).

13Tighten the alternator mounting and adjusting arm bolts securely.

14Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground.

15Run the engine for about five minutes, then recheck the tension.

Flat “polyvee” type drivebelt with tensioner pulley adjuster (HCS engine power steering pump drivebelt)

16Slacken the tensioner pulley centre bolt then turn the adjuster bolt at the base of the tensioner pulley bracket, as required, to take up the tension of the drivebelt. When the belt deflection is correct, tighten the adjuster pulley centre retaining bolt.

17Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground.

18Run the engine for about five minutes, then recheck the tension.

Flat “polyvee” type drivebelt with automatic adjuster

19As mentioned above, this type of drivebelt is tensioned by an automatic tensioner; regular checks are not required, and manual “adjustment” is not possible.

20If you suspect that the drivebelt is slipping and/or running slack, or that the tensioner is otherwise faulty, it must be renewed. To do this, remove the drivebelt as described below, then unbolt and remove the tensioner. On fitting the new tensioner, ensure that it is aligned correctly on its mountings, and tightened to the specified torque wrench setting.

the adjuster nut, and tighten the central bolt securely to lock the adjuster arm

Renewal

21Open the bonnet. Jack up the front righthand side of the vehicle, and support it securely on an axle stand. Remove the roadwheel, then remove the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover (where fitted) from inside the wheel arch.

22The routing of the drivebelt around the pulleys is dependent on the drivebelt type, and on whether power steering is fitted. Before removing the drivebelt, it’s a good idea to sketch the belt run around the pulleys; this will save a lot of frustration when it comes to refitting. Note that on HCS engines with power steering, to renew the alternator/ water pump drivebelt it will be necessary to remove the power steering pump drivebelt first.

23If the existing drivebelt is to be refitted, mark it, or note the maker’s markings on its flat surface, so that it can be installed the same way round.

24To renew a drivebelt with manual adjustment, slacken the belt tension fully as described above, according to type. Slip the belt off the pulleys, then fit the new belt, ensuring that it is routed correctly. If fitting a flat “polyvee” type drivebelt, arrange it on the grooved pulleys so that it is centred in their grooves, and not overlapping their raised sides. With the belt in position, adjust the tension as previously described.

25To renew the flat, “polyvee” type drivebelt with automatic adjuster, reach up between the body and the engine (above the crankshaft pulley), and apply a spanner to the hexagon in the centre of the automatic tensioner’s pulley. Rotate the tensioner pulley clockwise to release its pressure on the drivebelt, then slip the drivebelt off the crankshaft pulley, and release the tensioner again (see illustration). Note that on certain models, a self-cocking tensioner is fitted, and that this will remain in the released position. Working from the wheel arch or engine compartment as necessary, and noting its routing, slip the drivebelt off the remaining pulleys and withdraw it.

26Check all the pulleys, ensuring that their grooves are clean, and removing all traces of

4.25Automatic drivebelt tensioner - “polyvee” type drivebelt

Turn tensioner clockwise to release tension

oil and grease. Check that the tensioner works properly, with strong spring pressure being felt when its pulley is rotated clockwise, and a smooth return to the limit of its travel when released.

27If the original drivebelt is being refitted, use the marks or notes made on removal, to ensure that it is installed to run in the same direction as it was previously. To fit the drivebelt, arrange it on the grooved pulleys so that it is centred in their grooves, and not overlapping their raised sides, and is routed correctly. Start at the top, and work down to finish at the crankshaft pulley; rotate the tensioner pulley clockwise, slip the drivebelt onto the crankshaft pulley, then release the tensioner again.

28Using a spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft through at least two full turns clockwise to settle the drivebelt on the pulleys, then check that the drivebelt is properly installed.

29Refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where applicable) and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground.

5 Underbonnet check for fluid	1
leaks and hose condition

General

1 High temperatures in the engine compartment can cause the deterioration of the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine, accessory and emissions systems operation. Periodic inspection should be made for cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and leaks.

2 Carefully check the large top and bottom radiator hoses, along with the other smallerdiameter cooling system hoses and metal pipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipes which run from the engine to the bulkhead. Inspect each hose along its entire length, replacing any that is cracked, swollen or shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may become more apparent if the hose is

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months 1•13

5.2 Hoses, like drivebelts, have a habit of failing at the worst possible time - to prevent the inconvenience of a blown radiator or heater hose, inspect them carefully as shown here

squeezed (see illustration). If you are using non-Ford specification antifreeze, and so have to renew the coolant every two years or so, it’s a good idea to renew the hoses at that time, regardless of their apparent condition.

3 Make sure that all hose connections are tight. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as whiteor rust-coloured deposits on the areas adjoining the leak; if the spring clamps that are used to secure the hoses in this system appear to be slackening, they should be renewed to prevent the possibility of leaks.

4 Some other hoses are secured to their fittings with clamps. Where clamps are used, check to be sure they haven’t lost their tension, allowing the hose to leak. If clamps aren’t used, make sure the hose has not expanded and/or hardened where it slips over the fitting, allowing it to leak.

5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs of leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering fluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in the same place, close inspection of the ground underneath it will soon show any leaks. As soon as a leak is detected, its source must be traced and rectified. Where oil has been leaking for some time, it is usually necessary to use a steam cleaner, pressure washer or similar, to clean away the accumulated dirt, so that (when the engine is run again) the exact source of the leak can be identified.

Vacuum hoses

6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses, especially those in the emissions system, to be colour-coded, or to be identified by coloured

stripes moulded into them. Various systems require hoses with different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance and temperature resistance. When renewing hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the same material.

7 Often the only effective way to check a hose is to remove it completely from the vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure correct installation.

8When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to include any plastic T-fittings in the check. Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check the hose where it fits over the fitting for distortion, which could cause leakage.

9A small piece of vacuum hose (quarter-inch inside diameter) can be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end of the hose to your ear, and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the “hissing” sound characteristic of a vacuum leak.

Warning: When probing with the vacuum-hose stethoscope, be very careful not to come into contact with moving engine

components such as the auxiliary drivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.

Fuel hoses

Warning: There are certain precautions which must be taken when inspecting or servicing fuel system

components. Work in a well-ventilated area, and do not allow open flames (cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) or bare light bulbs near the work area. Mop up any spills immediately, and do not store fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.

10Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas where the hose bends, and also just before fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the fuel filter.

11High-quality fuel line, usually identified by the word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on the hose, should be used for fuel line renewal. Never, under any circumstances, use unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing or water hose for fuel lines.

12Spring-type clamps are commonly used on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their tension over a period of time, and can be “sprung” during removal. Replace all spring-type clamps with screw clamps whenever a hose is replaced.

Metal lines

13Sections of metal piping are often used for fuel line between the fuel filter and the engine. Check carefully to be sure the piping has not been bent or crimped, and that cracks have not started in the line.

14If a section of metal fuel line must be renewed, only seamless steel piping should be used, since copper and aluminium piping don’t have the strength necessary to withstand normal engine vibration.

15 Check the metal brake lines where they enter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulic unit (if used) for cracks in the lines or loose fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls for an immediate and thorough inspection of the brake system.

6 Engine compartment wiring	1
check

1 With the vehicle parked on level ground, apply the handbrake firmly and open the bonnet. Using an inspection light or a small electric torch, check all visible wiring within and beneath the engine compartment.

2 What you are looking for is wiring that is obviously damaged by chafing against sharp edges, or against moving suspension/ transmission components and/or the auxiliary drivebelt, by being trapped or crushed between carelessly-refitted components, or melted by being forced into contact with the hot engine castings, coolant pipes, etc. In almost all cases, damage of this sort is caused in the first instance by incorrect routing on reassembly, after previous work has been carried out.

3 Depending on the extent of the problem, damaged wiring may be repaired by rejoining

the break or splicing-in a new length of wire, 1 using solder to ensure a good connection,

and remaking the insulation with adhesive insulating tape or heat-shrink tubing, as appropriate. If the damage is extensive, given the implications for the vehicle’s future reliability, the best long-term answer may well be to renew that entire section of the loom, however expensive this may appear.

4 When the actual damage has been repaired, ensure that the wiring loom is rerouted correctly, so that it is clear of other components, and not stretched or kinked, and is secured out of harm’s way using the plastic clips, guides and ties provided.

5Check all electrical connectors, ensuring that they are clean, securely fastened, and that each is locked by its plastic tabs or wire clip, as appropriate. If any connector shows external signs of corrosion (accumulations of white or green deposits, or streaks of “rust”), or if any is thought to be dirty, it must be unplugged and cleaned using electrical contact cleaner. If the connector pins are severely corroded, the connector must be renewed; note that this may mean the renewal of that entire section of the loom - see your local Ford dealer for details.

6If the cleaner completely removes the corrosion to leave the connector in a satisfactory condition, it would be wise to pack the connector with a suitable material which will exclude dirt and moisture, preventing the corrosion from occurring again; a Ford dealer may be able to recommend a suitable product.

7Check the condition of the battery

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1•14 Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

connections - remake the connections or renew the leads if a fault is found. Use the same techniques to ensure that all earth points in the engine compartment provide good electrical contact through clean, metal- to-metal joints, and that all are securely fastened. (In addition to the earth connection at the engine lifting eye, and that from the transmission to the body/battery, there are others in various places, so check carefully).

8 Refer to Section 21 for details of spark plug (HT) lead checks.

7	Valve clearance adjustment 2
Refer to Chapter 2, Part A.
8	Manual transmission oil level	1
	check

1The manual transmission does not have a dipstick. To check the oil level, raise the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands, making sure that the vehicle is level. On the lower front side of the transmission housing, you will see the filler/level plug. Unscrew and remove it - an Allen key or bit will probably be required (see illustration).

2With the plug removed, check the oil level. To do this accurately, make up an oil level check dipstick from a short length of welding rod or similar material. Make a 90º bend in the rod, then mark the downward leg in 5 mm increments. The dipstick is then inserted through the filler plug orifice so that the unmarked leg rests flat on the plug orifice threads, with the marked leg dipped in the oil. Withdraw the dipstick and read off the level of oil.

3The oil level must be maintained between 0 and 5 mm below the lower edge of the filler/level plug hole. Top up (if necessary), using fresh transmission oil of the specified type and using a syringe, or a plastic bottle and tube. Refit and tighten the filler/level plug to the specified torque on completion.

8.1 Manual transmission oil level/filler plug (A), and selector shaft cap nut (B)

4The need for regular topping-up can only be due to a leak, which should be found and rectified without delay.

5Regular oil changing is not specified by the manufacturer’s, but the oil can be drained, if required, by removing the selector shaft cap nut and locking assembly.

	9 Idle speed and mixture	4
	check and adjustment

General

1Many of the engines fitted to Fiesta models are equipped with fuel injection systems of one sort or another which are entirely controlled by the engine management system. On most of these vehicles, it isn’t possible to make any adjustments to the idle speed or the mixture settings without specialist test equipment of a type usually only found at a Ford dealer or fuel injection specialist. However, the very nature of these highlysophisticated systems means they don’t go out of tune very often (if ever), so that it’s one less maintenance operation to worry about.

2On carburettor engines and 1.6 litre EFi fuel injection engines, certain checks and adjustments are necessary as part of the service requirements, and these are described below.

Idle speed and mixture check and adjustment - carburettor engines

Note: Later carburettors are fitted with tamperproof mixture adjusting screws, consisting of a hexagon-shaped socket with a pin in the centre. Such screws require the use of Ford service tool 23-032 to alter their settings; if this tool (or a suitable equivalent) is not available, the CO level will have to be checked, and any necessary adjustment will have to be made, by a Ford dealer.

3 Before carrying out the following checks and adjustments, ensure that the spark plugs are in good condition and correctly gapped (Section 21). To carry out the

9.6Cooling fan thermostatic switch multiplug with temporary bridging wire

connected

checks/adjustments, an accurate tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will be required.

4Make sure that all electrical components are switched off during the following procedures.

5Connect a tachometer to the engine in accordance with its manufacturer’s instructions, and insert the probe of an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) into the exhaust tailpipe. As previously mentioned, these items are essential in obtaining an accurate setting. If they are not available, an approximate check/adjustment can be made as a temporary measure, providing they are further checked out as soon as is possible using a tachometer and a CO meter (or by a Ford dealer).

6Run the engine at a fast idle speed until it reaches its normal operating temperature and the radiator cooling fan cuts in. Turn the engine off, then disconnect the radiator cooling fan lead at the thermostatic switch connector. Now connect a temporary wire to the fan switch multi-plug, as shown (see illustration) to enable the fan to operate continuously during the following checks and adjustments (if this is specified). Take care to keep clear of the fan during the following operations when working in the engine compartment.

7Where fitted, disconnect the throttle kicker vacuum pipe, and plug the end. To identify the throttle kicker unit, refer to Chapter 4A.

8Check that the vehicle lighting and other electrical loadings (apart from the radiator cooling fan) are switched off, then restart the engine. Increase the engine speed to 3000 rpm for 30 seconds, and repeat this at three-minute intervals during the check/adjustment procedures. This will ensure that any excess fuel is cleared from the inlet manifold.

9Ensure that the throttle is fully released, allow the meters to stabilise for a period of 5 to

30seconds is normally sufficient, then check the idle speed against that specified. If adjustment is necessary, turn the idle speed adjusting screw until the engine is idling at the specified speed (see illustrations). Any checks and adjustments must be completed within

30seconds of the meters stabilising.

9.9a Idle speed adjusting screw (A) and mixture adjusting screw (B) (Weber TLM carburettor)

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Every 10 000 miles or 12 months 1•15

9.9b Idle speed adjusting screw (A) and mixture adjusting screw (B) (Weber TLDM carburettor)

10If adjustment to the mixture is required, the tamperproof cap will need to be removed from the carburettor to gain access to the mixture screw. To do this, first unclip the fuel trap from the side of the air cleaner unit, then remove the air cleaner unit, ensuring that the crankcase ventilation trap remains connected. Prise free the tamperproof cap (with the aid of a thin-bladed screwdriver), then with the vacuum and emissions control pipes connected to it, relocate the air cleaner unit temporarily into position.

11Turn the mixture adjustment screw clockwise to weaken the mixture, or anti-clockwise to richen it, until the CO reading is as given in the Specifications. If a CO meter is not being used, weaken the mixture as described, then enrich the mixture

on the 1.6 litre EFi engine

9.9c Idle speed mixture adjusting screw (A) and idle speed adjusting screw

(B) (Weber DFTM carburettor)

until the maximum engine speed is obtained, consistent with even running.

12If necessary, re-adjust the idle speed then check the CO reading again. Repeat as necessary until both the idle speed and CO reading are correct.

13Where required by law (as in some European countries), fit a new tamperproof cap to the mixture adjustment screw.

14Disconnect the tachometer and the CO meter, refit the air cleaner unit, and reconnect the fan switch lead to complete.

Base idle speed and mixture check and adjustment - 1.6 litre EFi engines

15 Proceed as described above in paragraphs 3 to 6 inclusive, then continue as follows.

16Run the engine at a fast idle speed until it reaches its normal operating temperature and the cooling fan cuts in. Check the CO content of the exhaust, and compare it against the specified reading. If the CO content reading is incorrect, it can be adjusted by prising free the tamperproof cap for access to the mixture CO adjustment screw (see illustration), and turning the screw in the required direction to suit.

17The operational idle speed is controlled by the EEC IV engine management module and is not adjustable. However, if the base idle speed is incorrect, the module will not have an accurate datum point from which to establish

9.9d Idle speed mixture adjusting screw (A) and idle speed adjusting screw

(B) (Weber TLD carburettor)

the normal operational idle speed. If idle problems have been experienced, the base idle speed should be checked as follows.

18Disconnect the multi-plug from the idle speed control valve and increase the engine speed to 2000 rpm, hold it at that speed for

30seconds, then fully release the throttle and check if the base idle speed registered is as specified.

19If adjustment is necessary, prise free the tamperproof plug using a suitable small screwdriver to gain access to the base idle speed adjustment screw in the throttle body.

Turn the screw in the required direction to 1 adjust the base idle speed to the specified amount. Turning the screw anti-clockwise increases the idle speed (see illustration).

20Increase the engine speed to 2000 rpm again, hold it at that speed for 30 seconds, then fully release the throttle once more. Check and further adjust the base idle speed if required, then fit a new tamperproof plug into position.

21Reconnect the idle speed control valve multi-plug and check that the engine speed briefly rises to about 900 rpm, then drops down to the specified normal idle speed.

22On completion, disconnect the tachometer and the CO meter, but continue running the engine at idle speed for a period of about five minutes, to enable the engine management module to relearn its values before switching it off.

9.19 Base idle speed adjustment screw (arrowed) on the 1.6 litre EFi engine

		10 Steering, suspension and	2
		roadwheel check
	Front suspension and steering
	check
	1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
	front of the car and support it on axle stands
	(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
	2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers
	and the steering gear gaiters for splits, chafing
end balljoint dust cover (arrowed)	or deterioration (see illustrations). Any wear
	of these components will cause loss of

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1•16 Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

arm balljoint dust cover (arrowed)

lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear.

3Check the power-assisted steering fluid hoses (where fitted) for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steering gear.

4Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and

6o’clock positions, and try to rock it. Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation is necessary to determine the source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free play is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the suspension joints or mountings.

5Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track rod balljoints. If the outer track rod end balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be obvious. If the inner joint is suspect, it can be felt by placing a hand over the rack-and- pinion rubber gaiter, and gripping the track rod. If the wheel is now rocked, movement will be felt at the inner joint if wear has taken place.

6Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected, as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber.

7With the vehicle standing on its wheels, have an assistant turn the steering wheel back-and-forth, about an eighth of a turn each way. There should be very little, if any, lost movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously

rack gaiters

described, but in addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and also check the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.

Rear suspension check

8 Chock the front wheels then jack up the rear of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the rear roadwheels.

9Check the rear hub bearings for wear, using the method described for the front hub bearings (paragraph 4).

10Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected, as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Check the condition of the shock absorbers and their bushes/mountings. On Van models, check the leaves of the leaf springs for signs of cracking, distortion, or other damage.

Roadwheel check and balancing

11Periodically remove the roadwheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by “kerbing” whilst parking, and similarly, steel wheels may become dented or buckled. Renewal of the wheel is very often the only course of remedial action possible.

12The balance of each wheel and tyre assembly should be maintained, not only to avoid excessive tyre wear, but also to avoid wear in the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration through the vehicle’s bodyshell, although in many cases it is particularly noticeable through the steering wheel. Conversely, it should be noted that wear or damage in suspension or steering components may cause excessive tyre wear. Out-of-round or out-of-true tyres, damaged wheels and wheel bearing wear/ maladjustment also fall into this category. Balancing will not usually cure vibration caused by such wear.

13Wheel balancing may be carried out with the wheel either on or off the vehicle. If

for cracks and/or leaking grease

balanced on the vehicle, ensure that the wheel-to-hub relationship is marked in some way prior to subsequent wheel removal, so that it may be refitted in its original position.

	11 Driveshaft rubber gaiter and	1
	CV joint check

1 The driveshaft rubber gaiters are very important, because they prevent dirt, water and foreign material from entering and damaging the constant velocity (CV) joints. External contamination can cause the gaiter material to deteriorate prematurely, so it’s a good idea to wash the gaiters with soap and water occasionally.

2 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on axle stands, turn the steering onto full-lock, then slowly rotate each front wheel in turn. Inspect the condition of the outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs of cracking, splits, or deterioration of the rubber, which may allow the escape of grease, and lead to the ingress of water and grit into the joint (see illustration). Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the inner CV joints. If any damage or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be renewed as described in Chapter 8.

3 At the same time, check the general condition of the outer CV joints themselves, by first holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheels. Any appreciable movement in the CV joint indicates wear in the joint, wear in the driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut. Repeat this check on the inner joints, by holding the inner joint yoke and attempting to rotate the driveshaft.

12 Exhaust system check	1

1 With the engine cold (at least three hours after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system, from its starting

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months 1•17

point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe. Ideally, this should be done on a hoist, where unrestricted access is available; if a hoist is not available, raise and support the vehicle on axle stands.

2 Check the pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion, or damage. Make sure that all brackets and rubber mountings are in good condition, and tight; if any of the mountings are to be renewed, ensure that the replacements are of the correct type (see illustration). Leakage at any of the joints or in other parts of the system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak. Note: Exhaust sealants should not be used on any part of the exhaust system upstream of the catalytic converter - even if the sealant does not contain additives harmful to the converter, pieces of it may break off and foul the element, causing local overheating.

3At the same time, inspect the underside of the body for holes, corrosion, open seams, etc, which may allow exhaust gases to enter the passenger compartment. Seal all body openings with silicone or body putty.

4Rattles and other noises can often be traced to the exhaust system, especially the rubber mountings. Try to move the system, silencer(s) and catalytic converter. If any components can touch the body or suspension parts, secure the exhaust system with new mountings.

5Check the running condition of the engine by inspecting inside the end of the tailpipe; the exhaust deposits here are an indication of the engine’s state of tune. The inside of the tailpipe should be dry, and should vary in colour from dark grey to light grey/brown; if it is black and sooty, or coated with white deposits, the engine is in need of a thorough fuel system inspection.

13 Underbody and fuel/brake	1
line check

1With the vehicle raised and supported on axle stands or over an inspection pit, thoroughly inspect the underbody and wheel arches for signs of damage and corrosion. In particular, examine the bottom of the side sills, and any concealed areas where mud can collect. Where corrosion and rust is evident, press and tap firmly on the panel with a screwdriver, and check for any serious corrosion which would necessitate repairs. If the panel is not seriously corroded, clean away the rust, and apply a new coating of underseal. Refer to Chapter 11 for more details of body repairs.

2At the same time, inspect the PVC-coated lower body panels for stone damage and general condition.

3Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on the underbody for damage, rust, corrosion and leakage. Also make sure that they are

rubber mountings replacements are of the correct type - their colour is a good guide. Those nearest to the catalytic converter are more heat-resistant than the others

correctly supported in their clips. Where applicable, check the PVC coating on the lines for damage.

14 Brake check	2

Note: For detailed photographs of the brake system, refer to Chapter 9.

1 The work described in this Section should be carried out at the specified intervals, or whenever a defect is suspected in the braking system. Any of the following symptoms could indicate a potential brake system defect:

a)The vehicle pulls to one side when the brake pedal is depressed.

b)The brakes make scraping or dragging noises when applied.

c)Brake pedal travel is excessive.

d)The brake fluid requires repeated toppingup.

2 A thorough inspection should be made to confirm the thickness of the linings, as follows.

Front brakes

3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).

4 For better access to the brake calipers, remove the wheels.

5Look through the inspection window in the caliper, and check that the thickness of the friction lining material on each of the pads is not less than the recommended minimum thickness given in the Specifications. Note:

Bear in mind that the lining material is normally bonded to a metal backing plate.

6If it is difficult to determine the exact thickness of the pad linings, or if you are at all concerned about the condition of the pads, then remove them from the calipers for further inspection (refer to Chapter 9).

7Check the remaining brake caliper in the same way.

8If any one of the brake pads has worn down

to, or below, the specified limit, all four pads must be renewed as a set.

9Measure the thickness of the discs with a micrometer, if available, to make sure that they still have service life remaining. If any disc is thinner than the specified minimum thickness, renew it (refer to Chapter 9). In any case, check the general condition of the discs. Look for excessive scoring and discolouration caused by overheating. If these conditions exist, remove the relevant disc and have it resurfaced or renewed (refer to Chapter 9).

10Before refitting the wheels and lowering the car, check all brake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). In particular, check the flexible hoses in the vicinity of the calipers, where they are subjected to most movement. Bend them between the fingers (but do not actually bend them double, or the casing may be damaged) and check that this does not reveal previously-hidden cracks, cuts or splits.

Rear brakes

11 Chock the front wheels then jack up the rear of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).

12 For better access, remove the rear wheels.

13 To check the brake shoe lining thickness without removing the brake drums, prise the rubber plugs from the backplates, and use an electric torch and mirror to inspect the linings 1 of the leading brake shoes. Check that the thickness of the lining material on the brake shoes is not less than the recommendation given in the Specifications.

14 If it is difficult to determine the exact thickness of the brake shoe linings, or if you are at all concerned about the condition of the shoes, then remove the rear drums for a more comprehensive inspection (refer to Chapter 9).

15With the drum removed, check the shoe return and hold-down springs for correct installation, and check the wheel cylinders for leakage of brake fluid. Check the friction surface of the brake drums for scoring and discoloration. If excessive, the drum should be resurfaced or renewed.

16Before refitting the wheels, check all brake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). On completion, apply the handbrake and check that the rear wheels are locked. The handbrake also requires periodic adjustment, and if its travel seems excessive, refer to Section 27.

15 Roadwheel nut tightness	1
check

1Apply the handbrake.

2Remove the wheel covers, using the flat end of the wheelbrace supplied in the tool kit (on some models it will be necessary to unscrew the retaining bolts with a special key).

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1•18 Every 10 000 miles or 12 months

3Check that the roadwheel nuts are tightened to the specified torque wrench setting.

4Refit the wheel covers.

	16 Door, tailgate and bonnet	1
	check and lubrication

1Check that the doors and tailgate/boot lid close securely. Check that the bonnet safety catch operates correctly. Check the operation of the door check straps.

2Lubricate the hinges, door check straps, the striker plates and the bonnet catch sparingly with a little oil or grease.

17 Seat belt check	1

1 Check the seat belts for satisfactory operation and condition. Inspect the webbing for fraying and cuts. Check that they retract smoothly and without binding into their reels. 2 Check that the seat belt mounting bolts are tight, and if necessary tighten them to the specified torque wrench settings as given in Chapter 11.

	18 Bodywork, paint and exterior	1
	trim check

1The best time to carry out this check is after the car has been washed so that any surface blemish or scratch will be clearly evident and not hidden by a film of dirt.

2Starting at one front corner check the paintwork all around the car, looking for minor scratches or more serious dents. Check all the trim and make sure that it is securely attached over its entire length.

3Check the security of all door locks, door mirrors, badges, bumpers, front grille and wheel trim. Anything found loose, or in need of further attention should be done with reference to the relevant Chapters of this manual.

4Rectify any problems noticed with the paintwork or body panels as described in Chapter 11.

19 Road test	1

Check the operation and performance of the braking system

1Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard.

2Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking.

3 Check that the handbrake operates correctly, without excessive movement of the lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary on a slope.

4 Test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. With the engine switched off, depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum, then hold the pedal depressed. Start the engine, and there should be a noticeable “give” in the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed again, it should be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no further hissing should be heard, and the pedal should feel considerably firmer.

Steering and suspension

5Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road “feel”.

6Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises.

7Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive sloppiness or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering and driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

8 Check the performance of the engine, transmission and driveshafts.

9Check that the engine starts correctly, both when cold and when hot.

10Listen for any unusual noises from the engine and transmission.

11Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when idling, and that there is no hesitation when accelerating.

12On manual transmission models, check that all gears can be engaged smoothly without noise, and that the gear lever action is not abnormally vague or “notchy”.

13On automatic transmission models, make sure that the drive seems smooth without jerks or engine speed “flare-ups”. Check that all the gear positions can be selected with the vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they should be referred to a Ford dealer.

14Listen for a metallic clicking sound from the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock. Carry out this check in both directions. If a clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a driveshaft joint, in which case renew the joint if necessary.

Clutch

15 Check that the clutch pedal moves smoothly and easily through its full travel, and that the clutch itself functions correctly, with no trace of slip or drag. If the movement is uneven or stiff in places, check that the cable is routed correctly, with no sharp turns.

16 Inspect both ends of the clutch inner cable, both at the transmission end and inside the car, for signs of wear and fraying.

Instruments and electrical equipment

17Check the operation of all instruments and electrical equipment.

18Make sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment in turn, to check that it functions properly.

	20 Automatic transmission fluid	1
	level check

1The level of the automatic transmission fluid should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and transmission damage.

2The transmission fluid level should only be checked when the transmission is hot (at its normal operating temperature). If the vehicle has just been driven over 10 miles (15 miles in a cold climate), and the fluid temperature is 60 to 70ºC, the transmission is hot.

Caution: If the vehicle has just been driven for a long time at high speed or in city traffic in hot weather, or if it has been pulling a trailer, an accurate fluid level reading cannot be obtained. In these circumstances, allow the fluid to cool down for about 30 minutes.

3Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the handbrake, and start the engine. While the engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and move the selector lever through all the gear positions three times, beginning and ending in “P”.

4Allow the engine to idle for one minute, then (with the engine still idling) remove the dipstick from its tube. Note the condition and colour of the fluid on the dipstick.

5Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a clean rag, and re-insert it into the filler tube until the cap seats.

6Pull the dipstick out again, and note the fluid level. The level should be between the “MIN” and “MAX” marks. If the level is on the “MIN” mark, stop the engine, and add the specified automatic transmission fluid through the dipstick tube, using a clean funnel if necessary. It is important not to introduce dirt into the transmission when topping-up.

7Add the fluid a little at a time, and keep checking the level as previously described until it is correct. The difference between the “MIN” and “MAX” marks on the dipstick is approximately 0.4 litres.

8The need for regular topping-up of the transmission fluid indicates a leak, which should be found and rectified without delay.

9The condition of the fluid should also be checked along with the level. If the fluid on the dipstick is black or a dark reddish-brown colour, or if it has a burned smell, the fluid should be changed. If you are in doubt about the condition of the fluid, purchase some new fluid, and compare the two for colour and smell.

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Every 20 000 miles or two years 1•19

Every 20 000 miles (32 000 km) or two years, whichever comes first

Warning: Wear eye protection

clean and white, with no deposits, this is

21 Spark plug renewal and HT

1

when using compressed air!

indicative of a weak mixture.

component check

10 If you are renewing the spark plugs,

6 Unscrew the spark plugs, ensuring that the

purchase the new plugs, then check each of

socket is kept in alignment with each plug - if

them first for faults such as cracked insulators

Note: Spark plug renewal at

this service

the socket is forcibly moved to either side, the

or

damaged

threads. Note

also

that,

porcelain top of the plug may be broken off. If

whenever the spark plugs are renewed as a

interval is only necessary on the HCS, CVH

any undue difficulty is encountered when

routine service operation, the spark plug (HT)

and PTE engines. On Zetec

engines, the

unscrewing any of the spark plugs, carefully

leads should be checked as described below.

recommended interval for spark plug renewal

check the cylinder head threads and tapered

11

The spark

plug electrode

gap

is of

is every 30 000 miles or three years.

sealing surfaces for signs of wear, excessive

considerable importance as, if it is too large or

Spark plug check and renewal

corrosion or damage; if any of these

too small, the size of the spark and its

1 It is vital for the correct running, full

conditions is found, seek the advice of a Ford

efficiency will be seriously impaired. The gap

performance and proper economy of the engine

dealer as to the best method of repair.

should be set to the value given in the

that the spark plugs perform with maximum

7 As each plug is removed, examine it as

Specifications Section of this Chapter. New

efficiency. The most important factor in ensuring

follows - this will give a good indication of the

plugs will not necessarily be set to the correct

this is that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the

condition of the engine. If the insulator nose is

gap, so they should always be checked

engine. The suitable type is given in the

covered with light tan to greyish-brown

before fitting.

Specifications Section at the beginning of this

deposits, then the mixture is correct, and it is

12

The spark plug gap is correct when the

Chapter, on the Vehicle Emissions Control

likely that the engine is in good condition.

correct-size feeler gauge or wire gauge is a

Information (VECI) label located on the

8 If the tip and insulator nose are covered

firm sliding fit between the electrodes (see

underside of the bonnet (only on models sold in

with hard black-looking deposits, then this is

illustrations).

some areas) or in the vehicle’s Owner’s

indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should

13 To adjust the electrode gap, bend open, or

Handbook. If the correct type is used and the

the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that

close up, the outer plug electrode until the

engine is in good condition, the spark plugs

the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture

correct gap is achieved (see illustration). The

1

should not need attention between scheduled

being too rich.

centre electrode should never be bent, as this

renewal intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely

9 If the insulator nose of the spark plug is

may crack the insulation and cause plug failure,

necessary, and should not be attempted unless

specialised equipment is available, as damage

can easily be caused to the firing ends.

2 Spark plug removal and refitting requires a

spark plug socket, with an extension which can

be turned by a ratchet handle or similar. This

socket is lined with a rubber sleeve, to protect

the porcelain insulator of the spark plug, and to

hold the plug while you insert it into the spark

plug hole. You will also need a set of feeler

gauges, to check the spark plug electrode gap,

and a torque wrench to tighten the new plugs

to the specified torque (see illustration).

3 To remove the spark plugs, first open the

bonnet; the plugs are easily reached at the

top of the engine. Note how the spark plug

plugs

feeler gauge

(HT) leads are routed and secured by clips,

and on some engines, how they’re positioned

along the channel in the cylinder head cover.

To prevent the possibility of mixing up spark

plug (HT) leads, it is a good idea to try to work

on one spark plug at a time.

4If the marks on the original-equipment spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark the leads

1to 4, to correspond to the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt/chain end of the engine). Pull the leads from the plugs by gripping the rubber boot, not the lead, otherwise the lead connection may be fractured.

5It is advisable to soak up any liquid in the spark plug recesses with a rag, and to remove

	any dirt from them using a clean brush,	recommend using a wire-type gauge when	electrode only, and be very careful not to
	vacuum cleaner or compressed air before
		checking the gap - if the wire or feeler gauge	crack or chip the porcelain insulator
	removing the plugs, to prevent any dirt or
		does not slide between the electrodes with a	surrounding the centre electrode
	water from dropping into the cylinders.
		slight drag, adjustment is required

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1•20 Every 20 000 miles or two years

if nothing worse. If the outer electrode is not exactly over the centre electrode, bend it gently to align them. Special spark plug gap adjusting tools are available from motor accessory shops, or from certain spark plug manufacturers.

14Before fitting the spark plugs, check that the threaded connector sleeves at the top of the plugs are tight, and that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are clean. Brown staining on the porcelain, immediately above the metal body, is quite normal, and does not necessarily indicate a “leak” between the body and insulator.

15Apply a smear of copper-based grease or anti-seize compound to the threads of each plug, and screw them in by hand where possible. Take extra care to enter the plug threads correctly, as the cylinder head is of aluminium alloy.

It’s often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without cross-threading them. To avoid this possibility, fit a short piece of rubber hose over the end of the spark plug. The flexible hose acts as a universal joint, to help align the plug with the plug hole. Should the plug begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage.

16When each spark plug is started correctly on its threads, screw it down until it just seats lightly, then tighten it to the specified torque wrench setting. If a torque wrench is not available - and this is one case where the use of a torque wrench is strongly recommended - tighten each spark plug through no more than 1/4 of a turn (CVH and PTE engines) or 1/16 of a turn (HCS and Zetec engines) after it seats. HCS and Zetec engines are fitted with taper-seat spark plugs, identifiable by not having a sealing washer, and these in particular should NEVER be overtightened - their tapered seats mean they are almost impossible to remove if abused.

17Reconnect the spark plug (HT) leads in their correct order, using a twisting motion on the boot until it is firmly seated on the end of the spark plug and on the cylinder head cover.

Spark plug (HT) lead, distributor cap and rotor arm check

18 The spark plug (HT) leads should be checked whenever the plugs themselves are

renewed. Start by making a visual check of the leads while the engine is running. In a darkened garage (make sure there is ventilation) start the engine and observe each lead. Be careful not to come into contact with any moving engine parts. If there is a break in the lead, you will see arcing or a small spark at the damaged area.

19 The spark plug (HT) leads should be inspected one at a time, to prevent mixing up the firing order, which is essential for proper engine operation. Each original lead should be numbered to identify its cylinder. If the number is illegible, a piece of tape can be marked with the correct number, and wrapped around the lead (the leads should be numbered 1 to 4, with No 1 lead nearest the timing belt end of the engine). The lead can then be disconnected.

20Check inside the boot for corrosion, which will look like a white crusty powder. Clean this off as much as possible; if it is excessive, or if cleaning leaves the metal connector too badly eroded to be fit for further use, the lead must be renewed. Push the lead and boot back onto the end of the spark plug. The boot should fit tightly onto the end of the plug - if it doesn’t, remove the lead and use pliers carefully to crimp the metal connector inside the boot until the fit is snug.

21Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of the lead to remove built-up dirt and grease. Once the lead is clean, check for burns, cracks and other damage. Do not bend the lead sharply, because the conductor might break.

22Disconnect the lead from the ignition coil by pressing together the plastic retaining catches (where fitted) and pulling the end fitting off the coil terminal. Check for corrosion and for a tight fit. If a meter with the correct measuring range is available, measure the resistance of the disconnected lead from its coil connector to its spark plug connector. If the resistance recorded for any of the leads exceeds the value specified, all the leads should be renewed as a set. Refit the lead to the coil, noting that each coil terminal is marked with its respective cylinder number, so that there is no risk of mixing up the leads and upsetting the firing order.

23Inspect the remaining spark plug (HT) leads, ensuring that each is securely fastened at the distributor cap or ignition coil and spark plug when the check is complete. If any sign of arcing, severe connector corrosion, burns, cracks or other damage is noticed, obtain new spark plug (HT) leads, renewing them as a set. If new spark plug leads are to be fitted, remove and refit them one at a time, to avoid mix-ups in the firing order.

If new spark plug leads are to be fitted, remove the leads one at a time and fit each new lead in exactly the same position as the old one.

24 On models with distributor ignition systems, refer to Chapter 5B and remove the distributor cap then thoroughly clean it inside and out with a dry lint-free rag.

25Examine the HT lead segments inside the cap. If they appear badly burned or pitted renew the cap. Also check the carbon brush in the centre of the cap, ensuring that it is free to move and stands proud of its holder. Make sure that there are no sign of cracks or black “tracking” lines running down the inside of the cap, which will also mean renewal if evident.

26Inspect the rotor arm checking it for security and also for signs of deterioration as described above.

27Refit the cap as described in Chapter 5B on completion.

22 Idle speed control valve	1
cleaning and maintenance

Note: The idle speed control valve may be mounted on the air cleaner, on the engine compartment bulkhead, or on the side of the inlet manifold according to valve make and year of manufacture. Valves manufactured by Weber are mounted on the air cleaner and only these valves require the periodic maintenance described below. Bulkhead and inlet manifold mounted valves are manufactured by Hitachi and are maintenance free. Refer to the warning note in Section 1 of Chapter 4C before proceeding.

1Remove the valve as described in Chapter 4C, Section 14.

2Immerse the valve head in a suitable container filled with clean petrol, and allow it to soak for approximately three minutes.

3Clean the valve bore, slots and piston with petrol, using a suitable lint-free cloth, then gently move the piston up and down in its bore using a small screwdriver (see illustration). Ensure that no cloth particles enter the bore, and do not use the slots to move the piston.

4Rinse the valve again with clean petrol, then dry it using an air line (or other source of compressed air).

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air!

5 Clean the mating faces of the valve and the air filter housing then refit as described in Chapter 4C, Section 14.

22.3 Gently move the idle speed control valve piston up and down in its bore using a small screwdriver (1.6 litre EFi engine)

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Every 30 000 miles or three years 1•21

Every 30 000 miles (48 000 km) or three years, whichever comes first

23 Coolant renewal	1

Note: If the antifreeze used is Ford’s own, the coolant need not be renewed for the life of the vehicle. If the vehicle’s history is unknown, if antifreeze of lesser quality is known to be in the system, or simply if you prefer to follow conventional servicing intervals, the coolant should be changed periodically (typically, every 3 years) as described here. Refer also to

“Antifreeze - notes on renewal” in this Section.

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin or painted surfaces of the vehicle. Flush

contaminated areas immediately with plenty of water. Don’t store new coolant, or leave old coolant lying around, where it’s accessible to children or pets - they’re attracted by its sweet smell. Ingestion of even a small amount of coolant can be fatal! Wipe up garage-floor and drip-pan spills immediately. Keep antifreeze containers covered, and repair cooling system leaks as soon as they’re noticed. Warning: Never remove the expansion tank filler cap when the engine is running, or has just been switched off, as the cooling system will be hot, and the consequent escaping steam and scalding coolant could cause serious injury.

Coolant draining

Warning: Wait until the engine is cold before starting this procedure.

1 To drain the system, first remove the expansion tank filler cap (see “Weekly Checks”).

2 If additional working clearance is required, raise the front of the vehicle and support it

radiator - use a coin to unscrew the plug

securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).

3 Place a large drain tray beneath the radiator, and unscrew the radiator drain plug - you can use a small coin to do this, as the plug’s slotted for this purpose (see illustration). Direct as much of the escaping coolant as possible into the tray.

System flushing

4With time, the cooling system may gradually lose its efficiency, as the radiator core becomes choked with rust, scale deposits from the water, and other sediment (refer also to “Antifreeze - notes on renewal” later in this

Section). To minimise this, as well as using only good-quality antifreeze and clean soft water, the system should be flushed as follows whenever any part of it is disturbed, and/or when the coolant is renewed.

5With the coolant drained, refit the drain plug, and refill the system with fresh water. Refit the expansion tank filler cap, start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature, then stop it and (after allowing it to cool down completely) drain the system again. Repeat as necessary until only clean water can be seen to emerge, then refill finally with the specified coolant mixture as described below.

6If only clean, soft water and good-quality antifreeze (even if not to Ford’s specification) has been used, and the coolant has been renewed at the suggested intervals, the above procedure will be sufficient to keep the system clean for a considerable length of time. If, however, the system has been neglected, a more thorough operation will be required, as follows.

7First drain the coolant, then disconnect the radiator top and bottom hoses. Insert a garden hose into the top hose, and allow water to circulate through the radiator until it runs clean from the bottom outlet.

8To flush the engine, insert the garden hose into the thermostat water outlet, and allow water to circulate until it runs clear from the bottom hose. If, after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator should be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent.

9In severe cases of contamination, reverseflushing of the radiator may be necessary. To do this, remove the radiator (Chapter 3), invert it, and insert the garden hose into the bottom outlet. Continue flushing until clear water runs from the top hose outlet. A similar procedure can be used to flush the heater matrix.

10The use of chemical cleaners should be necessary only as a last resort. Normally, regular renewal of the coolant will prevent excessive contamination of the system.

Coolant filling

11 With the cooling system drained and flushed, ensure that all disturbed hose unions are correctly secured, and that the radiator drain plug is securely tightened. If it was raised, lower the vehicle to the ground.

12 Prepare a sufficient quantity of the specified coolant mixture (see below); allow for a surplus, so as to have a reserve supply for topping-up.

13 Slowly fill the system through the expansion tank; since the tank is the highest point in the system, all the air in the system should be displaced into the tank by the rising liquid. Slow pouring reduces the possibility of air being trapped and forming airlocks.

14 Continue filling until the coolant level reaches the expansion tank “MAX” level line, then cover the filler opening to prevent coolant splashing out.

15 Start the engine and run it at idle speed, until it has warmed-up to normal operating temperature and the radiator cooling fan has cut in; watch the temperature gauge to check

for signs of overheating. If the level in the 1 expansion tank drops significantly, top-up to

the “MAX” level line, to minimise the amount of air circulating in the system.

16Stop the engine, allow it to cool down completely (overnight, if possible), then uncover the expansion tank filler opening and top-up the tank to the “MAX” level line. Refit the filler cap, tightening it securely, and wash off any spilt coolant from the engine compartment and bodywork.

17After refilling, always check carefully all components of the system (but especially any unions disturbed during draining and flushing) for signs of coolant leaks. Fresh antifreeze has a searching action, which will rapidly expose any weak points in the system.

18If, after draining and refilling the system, symptoms of overheating are found which did not occur previously, then the fault is almost certainly due to trapped air at some point in the system, causing an airlock and restricting the flow of coolant; usually, the air is trapped because the system was refilled too quickly. In some cases, airlocks can be released by tapping or squeezing the various hoses. If the problem persists, stop the engine and allow it to cool down completely, before unscrewing the expansion tank filler cap or disconnecting hoses to bleed out the trapped air.

Antifreeze mixture

19 If the antifreeze used is not to Ford’s specification, it should always be renewed at the suggested intervals (typically, every 2 or 3 years). This is necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1•22 Every 30 000 miles or three years

the corrosion which would otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors become progressively less effective. Always use an ethylene glycol-based antifreeze which is suitable for use in mixed-metal cooling systems.

20 If the antifreeze used is to Ford’s specification, the levels of protection it affords are indicated in the Specifications Section of this Chapter. To give the recommended standard mixture ratio for this antifreeze, 40% (by volume) of antifreeze must be mixed with 60% of clean, soft water; if you are using any other type of antifreeze, follow its manufacturer’s instructions to achieve the correct ratio. It is best to make up slightly more than the system’s specified capacity, so that a supply is available for subsequent topping-up.

21 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling system should be completely drained, preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security. As noted earlier, fresh antifreeze will rapidly find any weaknesses in the system.

22After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and the date installed. Any subsequent topping-up should be made with the same type and concentration of antifreeze. If topping-up using antifreeze to Ford’s specification, note that a 50/50 mixture is permissible, purely for convenience.

23Do not use engine antifreeze in the windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will damage the vehicle’s paintwork. A screenwash additive should be added to the washer system in its maker’s recommended quantities.

Antifreeze - notes on renewal

24 Ford state that, where antifreeze to Ford specification ESD-M97B-49-A is used, it will last the lifetime of the vehicle. This is subject to it being used in the recommended concentration, unmixed with any other type of antifreeze or additive, and topped-up when necessary using only that antifreeze mixed

engines, undo the air cleaner lid retaining screws . . .

50/50 with clean water. If any other type of antifreeze is added, the lifetime guarantee no longer applies; to restore the lifetime protection, the system must be drained and thoroughly reverse-flushed before fresh coolant mixture is poured in.

25If the vehicle’s history (and therefore the quality of the antifreeze in it) is unknown, owners who wish to follow Ford’s recommendations are advised to drain and thoroughly reverse-flush the system before refilling with fresh coolant mixture. If the appropriate quality of antifreeze is used, the coolant can then be left for the life of the vehicle.

26If any antifreeze other than Ford’s is to be used, the coolant must be renewed at regular intervals to provide an equivalent degree of protection; the conventional recommendation is to renew the coolant every two or three years.

27The above assumes the use of a mixture (in exactly the specified concentration) of clean, soft water and of antifreeze to Ford’s specification or equivalent. It is also assumed that the cooling system is maintained in a scrupulously-clean condition, by ensuring that only clean coolant is added on topping-up, and by thorough reverse-flushing whenever the coolant is drained.

General cooling system checks

28The engine should be cold for the cooling system checks, so perform the following procedure before driving the vehicle, or after it has been shut off for at least three hours.

29Remove the expansion tank filler cap, and clean it thoroughly inside and out with a rag. Also clean the filler neck on the expansion tank. The presence of rust or corrosion in the filler neck indicates that the coolant should be changed. The coolant inside the expansion tank should be relatively clean and transparent. If it is rust-coloured, drain and flush the system, and refill with a fresh coolant mixture.

30Carefully check the radiator hoses and

of the lid

heater hoses along their entire length; renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated (see Section 5).

31 Inspect all other cooling system components (joint faces, etc.) for leaks. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as whiteor rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gasket with reference to Chapter 3.

32 Clean the front of the radiator with a soft brush to remove all insects, leaves, etc, embedded in the radiator fins. Be careful not to damage the radiator fins, or cut your fingers on them.

24 Air cleaner element renewal 1

1 The air cleaner filter element is located in the air cleaner assembly mounted either on top of the carburettor or CFi unit, or on the left-hand or right-hand side of the engine compartment at the front. Remove the air cleaner lid as follows according to type.

Carburettor and CFi fuel injection models

2Undo the two or three retaining screws on the top of the air cleaner lid (see illustration).

3Release the clips, and lift off the air cleaner cover (see illustration).

EFi fuel injection models

4 If the idle speed control valve is mounted on the air cleaner, disconnect the multi-plug and the air bypass hose from the valve.

5Disconnect the flexible hose between the air cleaner lid and the air inlet duct or turbocharger air intake.

6Release the retaining clips and lift off the air cleaner lid (see illustration).

24.6 On EFi fuel injection engines, release the retaining clips and lift off the air cleaner lid

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Every 30 000 miles or three years 1•23

disconnect the mass air flow sensor wiring multi-plug . . .

SEFi fuel injection models

7Disconnect the mass air flow sensor wiring multi-plug (see illustration).

8Slacken the hose clip and disconnect the flexible rubber intake hose from the black plastic air intake duct (see illustration).

9Undo the retaining screws or release the clips and lift off the air cleaner lid complete with mass air flow sensor (see illustration).

All models

10Lift out the element, and wipe out the housing (see illustrations). Check that no foreign matter is visible, either in the air inlet or in the air mass meter, as applicable.

11If carrying out a routine service, the element must be renewed regardless of its apparent condition. Note that on models so equipped, the small foam PCV filter in the rear right-hand corner of the air cleaner housing must be cleaned whenever the air filter element is renewed (see Section 25).

12If you are checking the element for any other reason, inspect its lower surface; if it is oily or very dirty, renew the element. If it is only moderately dusty, it can be re-used after blowing it clean from the upper to the lower surface with compressed air.

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air! Because it is a pleated-paper type filter, it cannot be washed or re-oiled. If it cannot be

carburettor engine models . . .

disconnect the intake hose from the air intake duct . . .

cleaned satisfactorily with compressed air, discard and renew it.

Caution: Never drive the vehicle with the air cleaner filter element removed. Excessive engine wear could result, and backfiring could even cause a fire under the bonnet.

13 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that the element and cover are securely seated, so that unfiltered air cannot enter the engine.

Air cleaner temperature control system check (carburettor models)

14 In order for the engine to operate efficiently, the temperature of the air entering the inlet system must be controlled within certain limits.

15 The air cleaner has two sources of air, one direct from the outside of the engine compartment, and the other from a shroud on the exhaust manifold. On HCS engines, a wax-controlled thermostatic valve controls a flap inside the air cleaner inlet. When the ambient air temperature is below a predetermined level, the flap admits air heated from the exhaust manifold shroud; as the ambient temperature rises, the flap opens to admit more cool air from the engine compartment until eventually it is fully open. A similar system is used on CVH engines, except that a vacuum actuator modifies any

injection engine models

release the clips and lift off the air cleaner lid complete with mass air flow sensor

opening or closing action of the temperature sensor on the flap valve, according to the level of the inlet manifold vacuum under running conditions.

HCS engines

16 This check must be made when the engine is cold. Detach and remove the air cleaner inlet trunking. Examine the position of the check valve within the duct. When the underbonnet air temperature is below 28ºC, the valve must be open to allow hot air to enter the filter (see illustration).

17 Refit the inlet trunking. Start the engine 1 and run it until it reaches its normal operating temperature, then stop the engine, remove

the inlet trunking and check that the valve has closed off the air passage from the exhaust and opened the main (cool) air inlet.

18 If the flap does not operate correctly, check that it is not seized. Apart from this there is no adjustment possible, and the unit should be renewed if faulty. Refit the air inlet trunking on completion.

CVH engines

19 This check must be made when the engine is cold. Disconnect the main air inlet duct, and visibly check that the flap to the hot-air inlet is closed (i.e. open to the passage of cold air).

20 Start the engine, and check that with the

24.16 Air cleaner inlet and flap valve on the HCS engine

AMain air cleaner inlet (cool air)

BWarm air duct (flap open)

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1•24 Every 30 000 miles or three years

24.20 Air cleaner inlet and flap valve on the CVH engine

AFlap open (cool air inlet closed)

BWarm air inlet

engine idling, the hot-air inlet is open to allow warm air from the exhaust manifold area to enter the air cleaner. If the flap operates as described, it is functioning correctly (see illustration).

21 If the flap fails to operate as described, check the condition of the vacuum pipe and its connections, and check that the flap valve has not seized. If these are in order, either the temperature sensor or vacuum actuator is faulty, and a new air cleaner assembly must be obtained. Refit the main air duct on completion.

25 Emission control system	1
check

General

1Of the emission control systems that may be fitted, only the crankcase ventilation system and the evaporative emission control systems require regular checking, and even then, the components of these systems require minimal attention.

2Should it be felt that the other systems are not functioning correctly, the advice of a dealer should be sought.

Crankcase ventilation system

3The function of the crankcase ventilation system is to reduce the emission of unburned hydrocarbons from the crankcase, and to minimise the formation of oil sludge. By ensuring that a depression is created in the crankcase under most operating conditions, particularly at idle, and by positively inducing fresh air into the system, the oil vapours and “blow-by” gases collected in the crankcase are drawn from the crankcase, through the air cleaner or oil separator, into the inlet tract, to be burned by the engine during normal combustion.

4On HCS engines, the system consists of a vented oil filler cap (with an integral mesh filter) and a hose connecting it to the oil separator/engine breather valve connector on the underside of the air cleaner housing. A

CVH engines

further hose leads from the adapter/filter to the inlet manifold.

5 On CVH engines, a closed-circuit type crankcase ventilation system is used, the function of which is basically the same as that described for the HCS engine types, but the breather hose connects directly to the rocker cover. A separate filter is fitted in the hose to the rocker cover in certain applications (see illustration).

6 The system fitted to the PTE engines is similar to that used on the earlier (CVH) engines on which these engines are based, but with revisions to the hose arrangement to suit the remotely sited air cleaner and fuel injection system layout.

7On Zetec engines, the crankcase ventilation system main components are the oil separator mounted on the front (radiator) side of the cylinder block/crankcase, and the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve set in a rubber grommet in the separator’s lefthand upper end. The associated pipework consists of a crankcase breather pipe and two flexible hoses connecting the PCV valve to a union on the left-hand end of the inlet manifold, and a crankcase breather hose connecting the cylinder head cover to the air cleaner assembly. A small foam filter in the air cleaner prevents dirt from being drawn directly into the engine.

8Check that all components of the system are securely fastened, correctly routed (with no kinks or sharp bends to restrict flow) and in sound condition; renew any worn or damaged components.

9On HCS engines, remove and inspect the oil filler cap to ensure that it is in good condition, and not blocked up with sludge.

10Disconnect the hoses at the cap, and clean the cap if necessary by brushing the inner mesh filter with petrol, and blowing through with light pressure from an air line. Renew the cap if it is badly congested.

11If oil leakage is noted, disconnect the various hoses and pipes, and check that all are clear and unblocked. Remove the air cleaner lid, and check that the hose from the cylinder head cover to the air cleaner housing is clear and undamaged.

foam filter is located in the air cleaner housing on Zetec engines

12Where fitted, the PCV valve is designed to allow gases to flow out of the crankcase only, so that a depression is created in the crankcase under most operating conditions, particularly at idle. Therefore, if either the oil separator or the PCV valve are thought to be blocked, they must be renewed (see Chapter 4E). In such a case, however, there is nothing to be lost by attempting to flush out the blockage using a suitable solvent. The PCV valve should rattle when shaken.

13While the air filter element is removed (see Section 24), wipe out the housing, and on Zetec engines, withdraw the small foam filter from its location in the rear right-hand corner of the housing (see illustration). If the foam is badly clogged with dirt or oil, it must be cleaned by soaking it in a suitable solvent, and allowed to dry before being refitted.

Evaporative emission control systems

14 Refer to the checks contained in Chapter 4E.

26 Automatic transmission fluid 1 renewal

1 The automatic transmission fluid should only be changed when the transmission is cold.

2Position the vehicle over an inspection pit, on vehicle ramps, or jack it up and securely support it on axle stands, but make sure that it is level.

3Place a suitable container beneath the drain plug on the transmission sump pan. Remove the transmission fluid dipstick to speed up the draining operation.

4Thoroughly clean the area around the drain plug in the transmission sump pan, then unscrew the plug and allow the fluid to drain into the container.

5When all the fluid has drained (this may take quite some time) clean the drain plug, then refit it together with a new seal and tighten it securely.

6Place a funnel with a fine mesh screen in the dipstick tube, and fill the transmission with

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Every 30 000 miles or three years 1•25

the specified type of fluid. It is essential that no dirt is introduced into the transmission during this operation.

7 Depending on the extent to which the fluid was allowed to drain, it is possible that the amount of fluid required when filling the transmission may be more than the specified amount (see “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”). However, due to fluid remaining in the system, it is more likely that less than the specified amount will be required. Add about half the specified amount, then run the engine up to its normal operating temperature and check the level on the dipstick. When the level approaches the maximum mark, proceed as detailed in Section 20 to check the level and complete the final topping-up as described.

27 Handbrake adjustment	3

1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the rear of the car and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Fully release the handbrake.

2 Check that the handbrake cables are correctly routed and secured by the retaining clips at the appropriate points under the vehicle. 3 The handbrake is checked for adjustment by measuring the amount of movement possible in the handbrake adjuster plungers. These are located on the inside face of each rear brake backplate (see illustration). The

located on the inside face of each rear brake backplate

total movement of the two plungers combined should be between 0.5 and 2.0 mm. If the movement measured is outside of this tolerance, the handbrake is in need of adjustment. Adjustment is made altering the position of the in-line cable adjuster sleeve.

4 When adjustment to the handbrake is necessary, a new adjustment sleeve locking pin will be required, and this must therefore be obtained before making the adjustment.

5 To adjust the handbrake, first ensure that it is fully released, then firmly apply the footbrake a few times to ensure that the rear brake adjustment is taken up by the automatic adjusters. Extract the locking pin from the adjuster sleeve (see illustration), then turn the sleeve to set the combined movement of the plungers within the tolerance

pin (A), locknut (B) and adjuster sleeve (C)

range specified (0.5 to 2.0 mm). Turn the locking nut by hand as tight as is possible (two clicks) against the adjustment sleeve. Now grip the locknut with a suitable wrench, and turn it a further two clicks (maximum).

6Secure the adjustment by inserting the new lock pin.

7Check that the operation of the handbrake is satisfactory, then lower the vehicle to the ground, apply the handbrake and remove the chocks from the front wheels.

28 Front wheel alignment check 4

1

Refer to Chapter 10, Section 29.

Every 40 000 miles

29 Timing belt renewal	4

Refer to Chapter 2, Part B or C as applicable.

Every 60 000 miles

30 Fuel filter renewal	1

Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so extra precautions must be taken when working on any part of the fuel system. Do

not smoke, or allow open flames or bare light bulbs, near the work area. Also, do not work in a garage if a natural gas-type appliance with a pilot light is present. While performing any work on the fuel

system, wear safety glasses, and have a suitable (Class B) fire extinguisher on hand. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water.

1 On fuel injection engines, an in-line fuel filter is provided in the fuel pump outlet line. The filter is located in the engine compartment either below and behind the battery, or on the left-hand side of the engine compartment bulkhead. The renewal procedure is the same for both locations. The filter performs a vital role in keeping dirt and other foreign matter out of the fuel system, and so must be

renewed at regular intervals, or whenever you have reason to suspect that it may be clogged. It is always unpleasant working under a vehicle - pressure-washing or hosing clean the underbody in the filter’s vicinity will make working conditions more tolerable, and will reduce the risk of getting dirt into the fuel system.

2Depressurise the fuel system as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.

3Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1), then position a suitable container beneath the fuel filter to catch escaping fuel. Have a rag handy to soak

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

1•26 Every 60 000 miles

the filter on models with quick-release couplings

up the fuel when the feed and outlet pipe unions are disconnected.

4On models without quick-release couplings on the fuel lines, slowly slacken the fuel feed pipe union allowing the pressure in the fuel pipe to reduce. When the pressure is fully released, disconnect the fuel feed and outlet pipe unions.

5On models with quick-release couplings on the fuel lines, release the fuel feed and outlet pipe unions from the filter, by squeezing together the protruding locking lugs on each union, and carefully pulling the union off the filter stub (see illustration). Where the unions

showing clamp bolt (arrowed). Note fuel flow direction arrows on filter body

are colour-coded, the feed and outlet pipes cannot be confused; where both unions are the same colour, note carefully which pipe is connected to which filter stub, and ensure that they are correctly reconnected on refitting.

6Noting the arrows and/or other markings on the filter showing the direction of fuel flow (towards the engine), slacken the filter clamp bolt and withdraw the filter from the car (see illustrations). Note that the filter will still contain fuel; care should be taken, to avoid spillage and to minimise the risk of fire.

7On installation, slide the filter into its clamp so that the arrow marked on it faces the

fuel filter. Clamp bolt (arrowed)

correct way, then reconnect and tighten the pipe unions or slide each pipe union on to its (correct) respective filter stub, and press it down until the locking lugs click into their groove. Tighten the clamp bolt carefully, until the filter is just prevented from moving; do not overtighten, or the filter casing may be crushed.

8 Refit the fuel pump fuse and reconnect the battery earth terminal, then switch the ignition on and off five times, to pressurise the system. Check for any sign of fuel leakage around the filter unions before lowering the vehicle to the ground and starting the engine.

Every 3 years

31 Brake fluid renewal	3

The procedure is similar to that for the bleeding of the hydraulic system as described in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid reservoir should be emptied by syphoning, and allowance should be made for the old fluid to be removed from the circuit when bleeding a section of the circuit.

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

2A•1

Chapter 2 Part A:

HCS engine in-car repair procedures

Contents

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1 Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Cylinder head rocker cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Cylinder head rocker gear - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . 6 Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1 Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly Checks” Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . 15

Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Timing chain cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Timing chain, sprockets and tensioner - removal, inspection

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable for

1

Fairly easy, suitable

2

Fairly difficult,

3

Difficult, suitable for

4

Very difficult,

5

2A

novice with little

for beginner with

suitable for competent

experienced DIY

suitable for expert DIY

experience

some experience

DIY mechanic

mechanic

or professional

Specifications

General

Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Engine code:

1.0 litre carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.1 litre carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.1 litre CFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.3 litre carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.3 litre CFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Capacity:

1.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.1 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.3 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Bore:

1.0 and 1.1 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.3 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Stroke:

1.0 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.1 and 1.3 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Compression ratio:

Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

CFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Four-cylinder, in-line overhead valve

TLB

GUE or GUD

G6A

JBC

J6B

999 cc

1118 cc

1297 cc

68.68 mm

73.96 mm

67.40 mm

75.48 mm

9.5:1

8.8:1

1-2-4-3 (No 1 cylinder at timing chain end) Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Valves

Valve clearance (cold):

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 mm Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 mm

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

2A•2 HCS engine in-car repair procedures

Lubrication

Engine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”
Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”
Oil pressure:
At idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	0.60 bars
At 2000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	1.50 bars
Oil pump clearances:
Outer rotor-to-body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	0.14 to 0.26 mm
Inner rotor-to-outer rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	0.051 to 0.127 mm
Rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	0.025 to 0.06 mm

Torque wrench settings	Nm	lbf ft
Camshaft thrust plate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	5	4
Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	18	13
Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	115	85
Rocker shaft pedestal bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	43	32
Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	67	49
Sump:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	7	5
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	9	7
Stage 3 (with engine warm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	9	7
Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	14	10
Cylinder head bolts (may be re-used once only):
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	30	22
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Angle-tighten a further 90º
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Angle-tighten a further 90º
Timing chain tensioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	8	6
Timing chain cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	9	7
Crankshaft rear oil seal housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	18	13
Rocker cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	5	4
Oil pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	18	13
Oil pump cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	9	7
Engine mountings:
Engine mounting (right-hand):
Bolt to body (in wheel arch) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	41 to 58	30 to 43
Nut to body (by suspension strut) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	41 to 58	30 to 43
Bracket to cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	54 to 72	40 to 53
Rubber insulator to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	71 to 95	52 to 70
Transmission mounting fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .	Refer to Chapter 7A or 7B

Note: Refer to Part D of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.

1 General information

How to use this Chapter

This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repair procedures possible while the engine is still installed in the vehicle, and includes only the Specifications relevant to those procedures. Similar information concerning the 1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH and PTE engines, and the 1.6 and 1.8 litre Zetec engines, will be found in Parts B and C of this Chapter respectively. Since these procedures are based on the assumption that the engine is installed in the vehicle, if the engine has been removed from the vehicle and mounted on a stand, some of the preliminary dismantling steps outlined will not apply.

Information concerning engine/transmission removal and refitting, and engine overhaul, can be found in Part D of this Chapter, which also includes the Specifications relevant to those procedures.

Engine description

The engine is an overhead valve, watercooled, four cylinder in-line design, designated HCS (High Compression Swirl). The engine is mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle together with the transmission to form a combined power unit.

The crankshaft is supported in three or five shell-type main bearings. The connecting rod big-end bearings are also split shell-type, and are attached to the pistons by interference-fit gudgeon pins. Each piston is fitted with two compression rings and one oil control ring.

The camshaft, which runs on bearings within the cylinder block, is chain-driven from the crankshaft, and operates the valves via pushrods and rocker arms. The valves are each closed by a single valve spring, and operate in guides integral in the cylinder head.

The oil pump is mounted externally on the crankcase, incorporates a full-flow oil filter, and is driven by a skew gear on the camshaft. On carburettor versions, the fuel pump is also driven from the camshaft, via an eccentric lobe.

Repair operations possible with the engine in the car

The following work can be carried out with the engine in the car:

a)Compression pressure - testing.

b)Cylinder head rocker cover - removal and refitting.

c)Valve clearances - adjustment.

d)Rocker shaft assembly - removal, inspection and refitting.

e)Cylinder head - removal and refitting

f)Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising.

g)Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting.

h)Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.

i)Timing chain, sprockets and tensioner - removal, inspection and refitting.

j)Oil filter renewal.

k)Oil pump - removal and refitting.

l)Sump - removal and refitting.

m)Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting.

n)Engine/transmission mountings -

inspection and renewal.

Note: It is possible to remove the pistons and

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HCS engine in-car repair procedures 2A•3

connecting rods (after removing the cylinder head and sump) without removing the engine. However, this is not recommended. Work of this nature is more easily and thoroughly completed with the engine on the bench, as described in Chapter 2D.

2 Compression test -	2
description and interpretation

1 When engine performance is down, or if misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to the ignition or fuel systems, a compression test can provide diagnostic clues as to the engine’s condition. If the test is performed regularly, it can give warning of trouble before any other symptoms become apparent.

2The engine must be fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature, the oil level must be correct and the battery must be fully charged. The aid of an assistant will also be required.

3On fuel injection engines, refer to Chapter 12 and remove the fuel pump fuse from the fusebox. Now start the engine and allow it to run until it stalls.

4Disable the ignition system by disconnecting the multi-plug from the DIS or E-DIS ignition coil. Remove all the spark plugs with reference to Chapter 1 if necessary.

5Fit a compression tester to the No 1 cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester which screws into the plug thread is to be preferred.

6Arrange for an assistant to hold the accelerator pedal fully depressed to the floor, while at the same time cranking the engine over for several seconds on the starter motor. Observe the compression gauge reading. The compression will build up fairly quickly in a healthy engine. Low compression on the first stroke, followed by gradually-increasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low compression on the first stroke which does not rise on successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked cylinder head could also be the cause). Deposits on the underside of the valve heads can also cause low compression. Record the highest gauge reading obtained, then repeat the procedure for the remaining cylinders.

7Due to the variety of testers available, and the fluctuation in starter motor speed when

cranking	the engine,	different readings
are often	obtained	when carrying out

the compression test. For this reason, actual compression pressure figures are not quoted by Ford. However, the most important factor is that the compression pressures are uniform in all cylinders, and that is what this test is mainly concerned with.

8 Add some engine oil (about three squirts from a plunger type oil can) to each cylinder through the spark plug holes, and then repeat the test.

9If the compression increases after the oil is added, it is indicative that the piston rings are definitely worn. If the compression does not increase significantly, the leakage is occurring at the valves or the head gasket. Leakage past the valves may be caused by burned valve seats and/or faces, or warped, cracked or bent valves.

10If two adjacent cylinders have equally low compressions, it is most likely that the head gasket has blown between them. The appearance of coolant in the combustion chambers or on the engine oil dipstick would verify this condition.

11If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower than the other, and the engine has a slightly rough idle, a worn lobe on the camshaft could be the cause.

12On completion of the checks, refit the spark plugs and reconnect the HT leads and the ignition coil plug. Refit the fuel pump fuse to the fusebox.

3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for	2
No 1 piston - locating

1Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point of the cylinder that each piston reaches as the crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches its TDC position at the end of its compression stroke, and then again at the end of its exhaust stroke. For the purpose of engine timing, TDC at the end of the compression stroke for No 1 piston is used. On the HCS engine, No 1 cylinder is at the crankshaft pulley/timing chain end of the engine. Proceed as follows.

2Ensure that the ignition is switched off. Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs, then unscrew and remove the plugs as described in Chapter 1.

3Turn the engine over by hand (using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley) to the point where the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley aligns with the TDC (0) mark or TDC reference pointer on the timing cover (see illustration). As the pulley mark nears the timing mark, the No 1 piston is simultaneously approaching the top of its cylinder. To ensure that it is on its compression stroke, place a finger over the No 1 cylinder plug hole, and

feel to ensure that air pressure exits from the cylinder as the piston reaches the top of its stroke.

4A further check to ensure that the piston is on its compression stroke can be made by first removing the air cleaner (refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4), then unbolting and removing the rocker cover, so that the movement of the valves and rockers can be observed.

5With the TDC timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and timing cover in alignment, rock the crankshaft back and forth a few degrees each side of this position, and observe the action of the valves and rockers for No 1 cylinder. When No 1 piston is at the TDC firing position, the inlet and exhaust valve of No 1 cylinder will be fully closed, but the corresponding valves of No 4 cylinder will be seen to rock open and closed.

6If the inlet and exhaust valves of No 1 cylinder are seen to rock whilst those of No 4 cylinder are shut, the crankshaft will need to be turned one full rotation to bring No 1 piston up to the top of its cylinder on the compression stroke.

7Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any of the other cylinders can then be located by rotating the crankshaft clockwise (in its normal direction of rotation), 180º at a time, and following the firing order (see Specifications).

2A

4Cylinder head rocker cover - 1 removal and refitting

Removal

1Where necessary for access, remove the air cleaner as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.

2Detach the HT leads from the spark plugs. Pull on the connector of each lead (not the lead itself), and note the order of fitting.

3Remove the engine oil filler cap and breather hose (where fitted).

4Unscrew the four retaining bolts, and lift the rocker cover clear of the cylinder head. Remove the gasket.

3.3 Timing mark on the crankshaft pulley aligned with the TDC (0) mark on the timing cover

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2A•4 HCS engine in-car repair procedures

into the cut-outs in the cover

Refitting

5 Thoroughly clean the rocker cover, and scrape away any traces of old gasket remaining on the cover and cylinder head mating surfaces.

6Fit a new gasket to the rocker cover, then refit the rocker cover (see illustrations). Tighten the cover retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench setting, in a diagonal sequence.

7Reconnect the HT leads, and refit the air cleaner as described in Chapter 4.

5 Valve clearances -	2
checking and adjustment

Note: The valve clearances must be checked and adjusted only when the engine is cold.

1 The importance of having the valve clearances correctly adjusted cannot be overstressed, as they vitally affect the performance of the engine. If the clearances are too big, the engine will be noisy (characteristic rattling or tapping noises) and engine efficiency will be reduced, as the valves open too late and close too early. A more serious problem arises if the clearances are too small, however. If this is the case, the valves may not close fully when the engine is hot, resulting in serious damage to the engine (eg. burnt valve seats and/or cylinder head warping/cracking). The clearances are checked and adjusted as follows.

2Set the engine to TDC for No 1 piston, as described in Section 3.

3Remove the rocker cover as described in Section 4.

4Starting from the thermostat end of the cylinder head, the valves are numbered as follows:

Valve No		Cylinder No
1	- Exhaust	1
2	- Inlet	1
3	- Exhaust	2
4	- Inlet	2
5	- Inlet	3
6	- Exhaust	3
7	- Inlet	4
8	- Exhaust	4

5 Adjust the valve clearances following the sequence given in the following table. Turn the crankshaft pulley 180º (half a turn) after adjusting each pair of valve clearances.

Turning the engine will be easier if the spark plugs are removed first - see Chapter 1.

Valves “rocking”	Valves to adjust
7 and 8	1 (exhaust), 2 (inlet)
5 and 6	3 (exhaust), 4 (inlet)
1 and 2	8 (exhaust), 7 (inlet)
3 and 4	6 (exhaust), 5 (inlet)

6 The clearances for the inlet and exhaust valves differ (refer to the Specifications). Use a feeler gauge of the appropriate thickness to check each clearance between the end of the valve stem and the rocker arm (see illustration). The gauge should be a firm sliding fit between the valve and rocker arm. Where adjustment is necessary, turn the adjuster bolt as required with a ring spanner to set the clearance to that specified. The adjuster bolts are of stiff-thread type, and require no locking nut.

7 On completion, refit the rocker cover as described in Section 4.

6 Cylinder head rocker gear -	2
removal, inspection and
refitting

Removal

1Remove the rocker cover as described in Section 4.

2Unscrew the four retaining bolts, and lift the rocker gear assembly from the cylinder head. As the assembly is withdrawn, ensure that the pushrods remain seated in their positions in the engine.

Inspection

3 To dismantle the rocker shaft assembly, extract the split pin from one end of the shaft, then withdraw the spring and plain washers from the shaft.

4 Slide off the rocker arms, the support pedestals and coil springs from the shaft, but

If the pushrods are to be removed, keep them in the correct order of fitting by labelling them 1 to 8, starting from the thermostat end of the cylinder head, or locate them in a card.

take care to keep them in their original order of fitting (see illustration).

5 Clean the respective components, and inspect them for signs of excessive wear or damage. Check that the oil lubrication holes in the shaft are clear.

6 Check the rocker shaft and arm pads which bear on the valve stem end faces for wear and scoring, and check each rocker arm on the shaft for excessive wear. Renew any components as necessary.

Refitting

7 Apply clean engine oil to the rocker shaft prior to reassembling.

inspection

1595Ford Fiesta Remake