SINGER 15-90 User Manual

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INSTRUCTIONS

FOR USING

SINGER*

SEWING MACHINES

REVERSIBLE FEED

LOCK STITCH, FOR FAMILY USE

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THE SINGER MANÜFACTORING GO.

;n u. 3. A

THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER* LUBRICANTS FOR

YOUR ELECTRIC SEWING MACHINE

i t The Best is the Cheapest”

Use SINGER SEWING MACHINE

OIL on Machine

Knowing from many years* experience the great importance of using good oil, SINGER sells an extra quality sewing machine oil, in cans, especially prepared for sewing machines.

TO ALL WHOM IT MAY CONCERN:

The improper placing or renewal

of the Trade Mark SINGER’ ’ or any other of the Trade Marks of The Singer Manufacturing Company (all of which are duly Registered Trade Marks) on any machine that has been repaired» rebuilt, reconditioned, or altered in any way whatsoever outside of a SINGER factory or an authorized SINGER agency is forbidden.

20316

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING

SINGER

15*

SEWING MACHINES

(WITH ATTACHMENTS)

REVERSIBLE FEED

OSCILLATING SHUTTLE

FOR FAMILY USE

THE SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY

*A Trade Mark of THE SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY

Copyright (c) 1951 by The Singer Manufacturing Company

to

8

DESCRIPTION

These SINGER family sewing machines will give you practically life-time service.

Machine 15-88 is intended for operation by foot power and is regularly equipped with a treadle stand.

Machine 15-89 has a hand driving attachment and is provided with a wooden base and cover. This portable outfit can be conveniently carried from place to place as desired.

Each machine has an oscillating shuttle on a hori­ zontal axis and makes the lock stitch. Both machines have reverse feeding mechanism which enables you to sew either in a forward or backward direction, making it easy to back tack and to fasten the ends of seams.

In addition to plain sewing, a great variety of pleasing effects such as hemming, binding, edge stitching, shirring, ruffling, etc., can be produced with the aid of the attachments furnished with each machine. These attachments and other popular SINGER Fashion Aids will enable you to obtain the much desired tailored appearance of professionallymade garments and to add new fashion touches or finishes demanded by swiftly changing styles at a fraction of the cost of ready-made garments.

READ THIS BOOK CAREFULLY TO GET

THE UTMOST SERVICE

FROM YOUR SEWING MACHINE

S I N G E R SERVICE

Now that you have purchased your new SINGER, we do not want you to feel that your relations with us have come to an end. You are cordially invited to visit your SINGER Shop at any time for assistance in your sewing problems. You will be most welcome.

We hope, too, that you will make the SINGER Shop your headquarters for sewing supplies and service. Only there or through authorized bonded SINGER representatives can you secure warranted SINGER SEWING MACHINE OIL, needles, belts, parts, etc., so important in getting the best results from your machine. And remember, only an authorized SINGER representative should be allowed to touch your machine when repairs or adjustments are required.

World-wide SINGER SERVICE has no equal.

Use it!

TO OPERATE THE TREADLE MACHINE

(SEE FIG. 3)

Raise the presser foot B by means of the presser bar lifter C to prevent injury to the foot B and feed A.

FIG. 3. FRONT VIEW OF THE MACHINE

Hold the balance wheel D with the left hand and, with the right hand, loosen the stop motion screw E to release the balance wheel from the stitching mechanism.

Place your feet upon the treadle and, with the right hand, turn the balance wheel over toward you. Continue the balance wheel in motion by an alter­ nate pressure of heel and toe on the treadle, until a regular and easy movement is acquired. Then tighten the stop motion screw E to connect the balance wheel with the stitching mechanism.

Place a piece of cloth under the presser foot B and lower the foot by means of the presser bar lifter C and operate the machine, without thread, until you have become accustomed to guiding the material.

6

TO OPERATE THE HAND MACHINE

(SEE FIG. 4)

Place the lever H of the hand driving attachment in the socket G and turn the hinged finger F back between the spokes of the balance wheel, as shown.

FIG. 4. END VIEW OF MACHINE 15-89

SHOWING HAND DRIVING ATTACHMENT

Raise the presser foot B, Fig. 3 by means of the presser bar lifter C, Fig. 3 to prevent injury to the foot B and feed A, Fig. 3.

Turn the lever H of the hand driving attachment over from you, continuing the motion thus begun until a regular and easy movement is acquired. Then tighten the stop motion screw E, Fig. 3 to connect the balance wheel with the stitching mechanism.

Place a piece of cloth under the presser foot B, Fig. 3, lower the foot by means of the presser bar lifter C, Fig. 3 and operate the machine, without thread, until you have become accustomed to guid­ ing the material with the left hand.

NOTE: To release the lever H from the socket G, withdraw the plunger J and pull out the lever.

CHART SHOWING THE RELATIONSHIP OF

TYPES OF FABRICS,

THREAD AND NEEDLE SIZES AND

MACHINE STITCH SETTINGS

		TYPES OF					THREAD	NEEDLE	MACHINE
										STITCH
		FAB BIGS					SIZES	SIZES	SETTINGS
Filmy		materials			comparable				INSIDE		TOP
to		Net,			Marquisette,		100 Cotton		SEAMS		STITCHING
Chiffion,			Silk,		Organdie,		00 and 000	9	15-20		20-30
Ninon,		Silk		Velvet,		Nylon	Silk
Sheers.
Sheer		materials			comparable		80 to 100	11	12-15		15-20
to	Lawn,		Dimity,			Voile,
Batiste,			Rayon			Sheer,	Cotton
Rayon Crepe, Silk Crepe.							0 Silk
Lightweight			materials			com­	50 Mercerized	14	12		15-18
parable to Gingham, Cham-							60 to 80
bray.		Sheer		Wool		Crepe,	Cotton
Taffeta.							A Silk
Medium		lightweight				mater­	50 Mercerized
ials	comparable				to	Poplin,
Pique,		Percale,				Chintz.	50 to 70	14	12		15-16
Faille,		Bengaline,				Wool	Cotton
Flannel, Wool				Crepe,		W'ool	A or В Silk
Jersey.
Medium		heavy			materials		50 Mercerized
comparable			to	Crash,		Gab­	40 to 50	16	10		12
ardine,		Rep,			Corduroy,		Cotton
Velveteen,			Coatings,			Suit­	C Silk
ings.
Heavy		materials			compar­		Heavy Duty
							Mercerized
able		to	Sailcloth,			Sturdy		18	8
							30 to 40 Cotton				10
Denim,			Ticking,			Drill		19
							20to24 Cotton
Cloth, Heavy Coating.							D Silk	18 or 19
Very	heavy		materials			com­	40 to 60 Linen	21	6		8
							20 to 24 Cotton
parable to overcoating.							E Silk
Plastic materials.							Mercerized	11	10		12
							Cotton

When ordering needles, always specify “Class and Variety 15x1 ’ ’and state the size and quan ti ty required.

8

TO SET THE NEEDLE

Select the cor­ rect needle ac­ cording to the table on page 7. Be sure that the needle is not blunt or bent.

Raise the needle bar to its highest position and loosen the thumb screw K in the needle clamp.

Push the needle with its flat side

to	the	left up
into	the		needle
clamp		as	far as
it will		go, then
t i g h t e n			t h e

thumb screw.

Eieoio

FIG. 5. SETTING THE NEEDLE

UPPER THREADING

(SEE FIG. 6 ON THE FOLLOWING PAGE)

Raise the take-up lever 5 to its highest point. Place the spool of thread on spool pin at top of

machine

Pass the thread through the thread guide 1 Down, under and from back to front between the

tension discs 2 (the thread guard L guiding the thread between the discs)

Hold the spool tightly and pull the thread against the take-up spring 4 until it enters the retain­ ing fork 3

Pass the thread from back to front through the hole 5 in the take-up lever

Down through the guide 6 on the face plate Into the guide 7 on the needle clamp

From right to left through the eye 8 of the needle. Draw about two inches of thread through the eye of the needle with which to commence sewing.

9

FIG. 6. UPPER THREADING

10

TO REMOVE THE BOBBIN

Raise the take-up lever 5, Fig. 6 to its highest point. Withdraw the bed slide plate. Reach down with the left hand and open the bobbin case latch M and lift out the bobbin case. Release the latch and re­ move the bobbin from the bobbin case.

FIG. 7. REMOVING THE BOBBIN CASE

TO WIND THE BOBBIN

(SEE FIG. 8 ON THE FOLLOWING PAGE)

Hold the balance wheel D with the left hand and, with the right hand, loosen the stop motion screw E to release the balance wheel from the stitching mechanism.

Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle as far as it will go, having the small pin enter the hole in the side of the bobbin.

11

Place the spool of thread on the spool pin 1 Pass the thread to the right between the tension

discs 2

Up and to the left through one of the holes in the left side of the bobbin 3, from the inside.

FIG. 8. WINDING THE BOBBIN

The end of the thread must be held by the hand until a few coils are wound and then should be broken off.

Press down on the bobbin and the bobbin winder latch will drop down and hold the bobbin winder pulley against the hub of the balance wheel.

Then operate the machine the same as for sewing. When sufficient thread has been wound upon the

bobbin, the bobbin winder is automatically released from the balance wheel.

Then tighten the stop motion screw E.

12

If the pressure of the bobbin winder pulley against the hub of the balance wheel is insufficient for wind­ ing the bobbin, press down the bobbin winder until the latch N, Fig. 9 drops down and holds it, then loosen the adjusting screw O, Fig. 9. With the fore­ finger, push back the upper end of the slotted plate P as far as it will go, as shown in Fig. 9, and at the same time press the bobbin winder pulley against the hub of the balance wheel, then tighten the adjusting screw O.

£19072

FIG. 9. ADJUSTMENT OF BOBBIN WINDEK

If the thread does not wind evenly on the bobbin, loosen the screw which holds the tension bracket 2, Fig. 8 in position on the bed of the machine and slide the tension bracket to the right or left, as may be required, then tighten the screw.

Bobbins can also be wound while the machine is sewing.

13

TO THREAD THE BOBBIN CASE

Hold the bobbin so that the thread will unwind in the d i r e c t i o n

s h o w n

i n

Fig. 10.

EI9007

FIG. 10

Hold the bobbin case as shown in Fig. 10, and place the bobbin into it.

Pull the thread into the slot 1, under the tension spring 2 and into the slot 3 at the end of the spring.

14

TO REPLACE THE BOBBIN CASE

Hold the bobbin case by the latch and place it on the stud T of the shuttle body with the position finger S opposite the notch at the top of the shuttle race.

£19096

FIG. 13. BOBBIN CASE THREADED AND REPLACED

Release the latch and press the bobbin case back until the latch enters the groove in the stud. Allow about three inches of thread to hang free from the bobbin case and close the bed slide plate.

15

TO PREPARE FOR SEWING

Hold the end of the needle thread with the

left	hand	and	turn
the b a l a n c e			wheel
o v e r	toward		you
until	the	needle	goes

down and up again and the thread take-up lever 5, Fig. 16 is at its highest point. Pull up the needle thread and bobbin thread will come with it, as shown in

Fig. 14.

FIG. 15

THREADS IN POSITION TO

COMMENCE SEWING

FIG. 14

DRAWING UP THE BOBBIN THREAT

Lay both threads back under the presser foot diag­ onally across the feed, as shown in Fig. 15, to the right or left, depending upon which side of the needle the material is to be located, so that when the presser foot is lowered, the threads will be firmly held between the feed and the presser foot.

16

TO COMMENCE SEWING

Be sure to have the thread take-up lever 5 at its highest point.

Place the material beneath the presser foot B, lower the foot by means of the presser bar lifter C and com­ mence to sew, turning the balance wheel over toward you.

Never pull the ma­ t e r i a l a l o n g w h e n stitching. This is liable to bend the needle. Guide the material only.

Never operate the machine without cloth under presser foot.

FIG, 16

The slide over the bobbin case should be kept closed when the machine is in operation.

The balance wheel must always turn over toward the operator.

17

TO TURN A CORNER

Stop the machine when the needle is commencing its upward stroke. Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired, using the needle as a pivot, then lower the presser foot.

BASTING

The longest stitch, No. 6 on the stitch indicator, adjusted by lever X, Fig. 17, is satisfactory for basting. These basting stitches can be easily removed by clipping every sixth stitch and with­ drawing the long continuous thread.

Machine basting is firmer, more even and much quicker than hand basting.

TO SEW BIAS SEAMS

Use a shorter stitch when sewing bias or curved seams to increase the elasticity of the seam and to prevent seam failure under strain.

No change in tensions is required.

TO REMOVE THE WORK

Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever 5, Fig. 16 at its highest position. Raise the presser foot, draw the fabric back and to the left, and sever the threads on the thread cutter U, Fig. 16. Place the ends of the threads under the presser foot, as shown in Fig. 15.

18

TO REGULATE THE LENGTH OF STITCH

The machine is adjustable to make from 6 to 30 stitches per inch, as indicated by the numerals on the stitch indicator plate W.

FIG. 17. SHOWING LEVER FOR REVERSING DIRECTION

OF FEED AND REGULATING LENGTH OF STITCH

The number of stitches to the inch that the ma­ chine is set to make is indicated by the number which is in line with the upper side of the stitch regulating lever X.

To change the length of stitch, loosen the thumb screw Y and move it to the bottom of the slot. Then move the stitch regulating lever X until its upper side is in line with the number of the desired length of stitch. Now move the thumb screw Y until the stitch regulating plate touches the lever X, then tighten the thumb screw Y.

The machine will now make the indicated number of stitches to the inch in either a forward or reverse direction, depending on whether the lever X is at its lowest or highest position.

19

TO REGULATE THE DIRECTION OF FEED

To feed the material from you, push down the stitch regulating lever X Fig. 17 as far as it will go.

To feed the material toward you, raise the stitch regulating lever X as high as it will go.

The direction of feeding can be reversed at any point of a seam without removing the work from the machine.

The reverse feed makes it easy to do 'Tack tack­ ing” and to fasten the ends of seams.

TO REGULATE PRESSURE ON

PRESSER FOOT

For ordinary sewing, the pressure of the presser foot on the material seldom requires changing. Heavy materials require more pressure than light weight materials. The pressure should be only heavy enough to prevent the material from rising with the needle and to enable the feed to move the work along evenly. To increase the pressure, turn the thumb screw V, Fig. 16 clockwise or downward. To lighten the pressure, turn the thumb screw so that it screws upvrard.

SINGER Needles should be used in SINGER Machines

These Needles and their Containers are marked wi th the

Company’s Trade Mark "SIMANCO.*” i

Need I es in Containers marked

"FOR SINGER MACHINES”

are NOT SINGER made needles. 2