Instr-cLCtions for using-
Sewing Machine 185 J&K
Instructions for ■ using
SINGER
•k
Another in a long line of quality products by SINGER!
Copyright © 1958 by The Singer Company
♦A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY
AS THE OWNER OF THE SINGER 185J
you have a beautifully styled, smooth running machine which offers you a new world of sewing enjoyment. Exclusive dresses for yourself, clothing for your family, and numerous items for the home—all will be yours at a fraction of their ready-made cost.
SINGER* SERVICE
SINGER is interested in helping you keep your machine in top running condition. That’s why you should always call your SINGER SEWING CENTER if ever your machine requires adjust ment or repair. Only from a SINGER SEWING CENTER can you obtain the services of trained repair men plus warranted SINGER* parts.
Look for the famous red “S” and SINGER Trademarks at your SINGER SEWING CENTER. See phone book under SINGER CO. for address nearest you.
PRINCIPAL PARTS OF MACHINE 185J
SPOOL PIN
PRESSURE REGULATING
THUMB SCREW
TAKE-UP LEVER
NEEDLE THREAD
TENSION
THROAT PLATE
HAND WHEEL
BOBBIN
WINDER
BELT
STITCH REGULATOR
AND FEED
REVERSING LEVER
SLIDE PLATE
FABRIC, THREAD, NEEDLE AND STITCH LENGTH CHART
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
MACHINE STITCH SETTINGS |
||
|
|
|
TYPES OF FABRICS |
|
|
|
THREAD |
NEEDLE |
FOR STRAIGHT SEWING |
||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
SIZES |
SIZES |
INSIDE |
TOP |
||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
SEAMS |
STITCHING |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Filmy |
materials |
comparable |
to |
Net, |
Marquisette, |
Chiffon, |
50 Embroidery |
|
|
|
|||||
100 Cotton |
9 |
15 to 20 |
15 to 20 |
||||||||||||
Silk and Chiffon Velvets, Voiles, Ninon |
|
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|
|
Synthetic Thread |
|
|
|
||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
|
|
|||||||||||
Sheer materials comparable to Lawn, Dimity, Synthetic |
50 Embroidery |
|
|
|
|||||||||||
Sheers, Paper Taffetas, Pure Silks, Gossamer Silks, |
Silk or |
80 to 100 Cotton |
11 |
12 to 15 |
15 to 20 |
||||||||||
Synthetic Tricots, Synthetic Velvets, Satins |
|
|
|
Synthetic Thread |
|
|
|
||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
||||||
Lightweight |
materials |
comparable |
to |
Gingham, |
Cham* |
50 Mercerized |
14 |
|
|
||||||
bray. |
Pique, |
Poplin, |
Percale, |
Cretonne, |
Chintz, |
Faille, |
|
|
|||||||
60 to 80 Cotton |
or |
12 |
15 to 18 |
||||||||||||
Bengaline, Wool |
Flannel, |
Wool Jersey, |
Wool |
Crepe, |
|||||||||||
A Silk |
16 |
|
|
||||||||||||
Cotton Velvets and Velveteens, Lightweight Suitings |
|
|
|
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Medium heavy materials comparable |
to |
Corduroy, |
Crash, |
Heavy Duty Mer. |
|
|
|
||||||||
40 to 60 Cotton |
16 |
10 |
12 |
||||||||||||
Gabardine, Rep, Heavy Suitings and Coatings |
|
|
|||||||||||||
|
|
Synthetic Thread |
|
|
|
||||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|||||
Heavy |
materials |
comparable |
to |
Sailcloth, |
Denim, |
Ticking, |
20 to 40 Cotton |
18 |
8 |
10 |
|||||
Overcoatings |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Thread |
19 or 21 |
||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Plastic Materials |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
50 Embroidery |
11 or 14 |
|
12 |
|||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Synthetic Thread |
10 |
||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
50 Mercerized |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
NEEDLES AND THREAD
This machine uses needles 1 5 x 1 (Catalog 2020),
Sizes 9, 11, 14, 16, 18,19 and 21
For perfect stitching, choose needle and thread which correspond to the fabric accord ing to the chart on page 4. Be sure to use like threads for both needle and bobbin.
NEEDLE INSERTION
Raise needle bar to its highest point.
Loosen clamp screw A.
Insert needle (flat side to the right) up into needle clamp as far as it will go.
Tighten clamp screw A.
FLAT
SIDE
6
REMOVING AND WINDING THE BOBBIN
/
Raise needle to its highest point.
Open slide plate.
Press bobbin ejector and lift out bobbin.
|
Place empty bobbin on spindle. |
|
Press bobbin winder down against hand |
Loosen stop motion screw. |
wheel. |
t
Place spool of thread on spool pin.
Thread machine as shown above.
Hold end of thread and start machine. (End of thread will break off after a few coils have been wound on bobbin.)
When bobbin is full—
•Stop machine.
•Lift bobbin winder away from hand wheel.
•Remove bobbin.
•Tighten stop motion screw.
If thread doesn't wind evenly on bobbin—
•Loosen the screw which holds thread guide to bed of machine.
•Turn guide to left if bobbin winds high on right.
•Turn guide to right if bobbin winds high on left.
UPPER THREADING
Raise take-up lever to its highest point.
Place spool of thread on spool pin.
Thread machine as shown at left.
Thread needle from left to right as shown
below.
I
REPLACING THE BOBBIN AND THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE
Hold bobbin so that thread leads off in direction shown.
Place bobbin in case and draw thread into slot 1.
Draw thread between case and tension spring until it reaches notch 2.
Pull about 3 inches of thread across bobbin.
I
Close slide plate, allowing thread to enter notch in slide plate.
f
\
I
-r
10
STITCH LENGTH REGULATOR
Numerals on the indicator plate represent approximate number of stitches per inch.
The “red dot” C indicates the stitch setting.
To set stitch length —
|
• |
Turn thumb nut to the left. |
c |
• |
Move lever until “red dot” C is at desired |
|
|
stitch setting. |
|
• |
Turn thumb nut to the right until it rests |
|
|
against indicator plate. |
Once thumb nut is against indicator plate, reverse stitching is accomplished by raising lever to its highest position.
11
PRESSURE ADJUSTMENTS
To decrease pressure, turn thumb screw up.
To increase pressure, turn thumb screw down.
Pressure is the force the presser foot exerts on the fabric.
Too light a pressure will cause irregular feeding, which affects both quality of stitch and evenness of seams.
Too heavy a pressure not only affects stitch and seam quality, but will mar smooth surfaces and pile fabrics.
Surface finish, as well as weight and texture of the fabric, must be considered when determining the amount of pres sure needed.
12
PREPARING TO SEW
1/
\
•Have take-up lever at its highest point.
•Hold needle thread lightly with left hand.
•Turn hand wheel so that needle enters plate and brings up bobbin thread.
Pull end of bobbin thread up through needle hole in plate.
Lay both threads diagonally under presser foot.