Loading...14U 10 STITCH OVERLOOK MACHINE
Operator’s
Guide
14U
10 STITCH OVERLOOK MACHINE
PREFACE
Thank you for your purchase of this sewing machine.
This machine will provide you with excellent performance in sewing from light to heavy material (lawn to denim). Please refer to this booklet for proper use and optimum service.
To get the most out of your sewing machine, read the entire operator’s manual before attempting to operate the machine. Then familiarize yourself with the machine by following the operator’s manual page by page.
Safety Cautions;
®Be sure that the electrical voltage of the socket outlet (wall receptacle) is the same as the rated voltage of the motor.
®Disconnect the power-line plug from the socket outlet when changing needles, presser foot or throat plate, or when leaving the machine unattended. This eliminates the possibility of start ing the machine by accidentally pressing the speed controller.
* Do not pull the fabric while you are stitching as this may deflect the needle, causing it to
break.
®Before cleaning your machine, disconnect the power-line plug from the socket outlet.
®Do not attempt to adjust the motor bell. Contact your nearest Service Center should any adjustment be required.
®Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor. Be sure not to place anything on top of it.
®When sewing, closely watch the area being sewn to avoid injuries from needles and knives.
®Use only the handle to lift and move the machine.
To ensure that you are always provided with the most modern sewing capabilities, the manufacturer reserves the right to change the appearance, design or accessories of tliis sewing machine when considered necessary without notification or obligation.
* A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY
Copyright ©1988 SINGER SEWING MACHINE COMPANY
All Rights Reserved Throughout The World
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CONTENTS |
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1. |
Selection of stitches ........................................................................................................................................... |
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2 |
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2. |
Handy reference chart........................................................................................................................................ |
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4 |
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3. |
Principal parts.................................................................................................................................................... |
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4. |
Preparation for sewing...................................................................................................................................... |
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5. |
Preparation for threading................................................................................................................................. |
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• Setting up the thread guide holder............................................................................................................ |
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Needle positions........................................................................................................................................... |
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• How to insert the needles............................................................................................................................. |
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• How to open looper cover ........................................................................................................................... |
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• How to remove cylinder cover.................................................................................................................... |
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• How to thread the machine ........................................................................................................................ |
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• How to change threads .............................................................................................................................. |
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• Chain off and test sew.............................................................................................................................. |
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6. How to sew double chainstitch...................................................................................................................... |
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7. How to sew two-thread overlock and overedge............................................................................................ |
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8. How to sew three-thread standard overlock, flatlock and wrapped edge overlock ................................ |
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9. How to sew three-thread ultra-stretch mock safety stitch.......................................................................... |
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10. |
How to sew four-thread ultra-stretch mock safety |
stitch.................................................................. |
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11. How to sew four-thread safety stitch ............................................................................................................ |
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12. |
How to sew five-thread safety stitch.............................................................................................................. |
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13. How to adjust stitch length............................................................................................................................. |
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14. How to fine-tune overedge seam width.......................................................................................................... |
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15. How to sew rolled hem ................................................................................................................................... |
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16. Differential feed (with differential feed machine only).............................................................................. |
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31 |
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Gathered overedge .................................................................................................................................... |
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31 |
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Stretch overedge......................................................................................................................................... |
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17. Free arm sewing (tubular work).................................................................................................................... |
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18. |
Seam guide lines .............................................................................................................................................. |
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33 |
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19. |
Edge guide ....................................................................................................................................................... |
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33 |
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20. |
Three-thread flatlock stitch ........................................................................................................................... |
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34 |
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21. |
Two-thread flatlock stitch.............................................................................................................................. |
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34 |
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22. Two or three-thread blindstitching............................................................................................................... |
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23. |
Braiding by chaining-off................................................................................................................................. |
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35 |
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24. Two or three-thread pin tucking ................................................................................................................... |
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25. Reinforced (tapes) overedge stitching........................................................................................................... |
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26. |
Applying elastic................................................................................................................................................ |
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27. |
Turning square corners .................................................................................................................................. |
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28. How to replace stationary knife...................................................................................................................... |
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29. How to exchange light bulb ............................................................................................................................ |
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30. How to adjust presser foot pressure............................................................................................................... |
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31. |
Lubrication....................................................................................................................................................... |
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32. Reasons for poor stitches and how to make adjustment............................................................................. |
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33. Relationship between cloth, thread and needle............................................................................................ |
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34. |
Accessories........................................................................................................................................................ |
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43 |
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35. |
Specification..................................................................................................................................................... |
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1. Selection of stitches
This machine is capable of producing various types of stitches according to the combination of needle positions, threading methods, tension adjustment and the use of convertible right looper/spreader.
Stitch Type
(jlj Double
chainstitch
(2)Two-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock
(3)Two-Thread Overedge
(T)Three-Thread Overlock
(S)Three-Thread Flatlock
(6)Three-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock
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Reference |
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Pages |
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A 1-needle 2-thread straight stitch is |
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used for construction or decorative |
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stitching. Seams also can be sewn at |
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desired distance from edge of fabric by |
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disengaging the right looper and |
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movable knife. |
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1-needle 2-thread stitch is used for |
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seaming lightweight or stretch fabrics. |
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Also ideal for rolled hemming. Also, |
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a 3.5mm and 5.7mm overlock seam |
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width can be obtained by changing the |
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needle position.* |
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1-needle 2-thread stitch is used for |
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overedging common fabrics. It is also |
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ideal for flatlock (butted or lapped) |
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seams and blind hemming. Also, a |
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3.5mm and 5.7mm overedge seam |
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width can be obtained by changing the |
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needle position.* |
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1-needle 3-thread stitch is used for |
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overedging and seaming on common |
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fabrics. Also, a 3.5mm and 5.7mm |
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overlook seam width can be obtained |
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by changing the needle position.* |
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1-needle 3-thread stitch is used for |
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butted or lapped seams and ornamental |
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stitching with decorative thread. Also, |
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a 3.5mm and 5.7mm flatlock width |
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can be obtained by changing the needle |
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position.* |
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1-needle 3-thread stitch is used for |
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sewing narrow rolled hems or |
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ornamental edges. Also, a 3.5mm and 5.7mm wrapped overlook seam width can be obtained by changing the needle position.*
Stitch Type
(7) Three-Thread
Ultra-Stretch
Mock
Safety Stitch
(D Four-Thread
Ultra-Stretch
Mock
Safety Stitch
(D Four-Thread
Safety Stitch
@Five-Thread Safety Stitch
Reference
Pages
2-needle 3-thread stitch which is ideal for lightweight, extremely
stretchy fabrics such as tricot and 23 spandex.
2-needle 4-thread stitch which is ideal for medium to heavy weight
stretchy fabrics such as double knits 24 and swim wear.
This 4-thread stitch is a safety stitch made up of combined 2-thread over edge and double chainstitch.
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Overedging and seaming can be done in one operation on non-stretch fabrics.
This 5-thread stitch is a safety stitch made up of combined 3-thread overlock and double chainstitch.
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Overedging and seaming can be done in one operation on non stretch fabrics.
*Depending on the needle positions used, this machine can sew 2-thread and 3-thread standard width 3.5mm overedge and a 5,7mm wide overedge seams.
Also, for overedging heavyweight fabrics, the seam width can be increased still more by turning the over
edge seam width adjustment knob. (See page 27)
2. Handy reference chart
Stitch Type |
Needle |
Positions |
Tension Dial: Numbers shown are average settings on medium weight fabric with standard #80 Polyester thread
Blue |
Green Orange Yellow Purple |
Right Looper or Spreader
(T) Double
Chainstitch
Two-Thread
Wrapped Edge
Overlock
(3)Two-Thread Overedge
®Three-Thread Overlock
Three-Thread
Flatlock
® Three-Thread
Wrapped Edge
Overlock
Three-Thread
(Z) Ultra-St retch Mock
Safety Stitch
Four-Thread
Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch
(^0 Four-Thread Safety Stitch
Five-Thread
Safety Stitch
O O
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3.5 |
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3.5mm |
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5.0 |
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1.5 |
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5.7mm |
O |
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1.0 |
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4.0 |
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3.5mm |
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1.0 |
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4.0 |
5.7mm |
O |
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4.5 |
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1.5 |
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3.5mm Q |
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O |
2.5 |
2.0 |
2.0 |
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5.7mm |
O |
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2.5 |
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3.0 |
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2.0 |
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3.5mm |
O |
0.5 |
6.0 |
9.0 |
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5.7mm |
O |
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3.0 |
8.0 |
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0.5 |
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3.5mm |
O |
2.5 |
1.0 |
6.0 |
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5.7mm |
O |
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0.5 |
5.5 |
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4.0 |
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4.0 |
2.0 |
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1.5 |
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3.5 |
2.5 |
2.0 |
2.0 |
O |
3.5 |
1.0 |
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3.0 |
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3.5 |
2.5 |
2.0 |
2.0 |
Non-operating
1.5Position
Spreader
Spreader
Spreader
Spreader
Looper
Looper
Looper
Looper
Looper
Looper
Spreader
Looper
1.5Spreader
1.5Looper
The thread tension becomes tighter as the dials are turned to higher numbers. The tension settings shown on this page as well as throughout the operator’s manual are suggested guides. Adjust thread tensions to suit the fabric and size of thread used. For best results make tension adjustments in small increments of no greater than half a number at a time.
® When chainstitching under conditions given in Nos. ii) . and ;il; - set stitch length to over 2min.
4.Preparation for sewing
Connect the machine plug to the electrical receptacle of your machine and the power line plug to the wall receptacle.
For 220/240V |
For 120V |
Power switch |
Power switch |
(used also for light switch) |
(used also for light switch) |
Push upper side ("I" mark) |
When the switch is ON, |
to turn "ON". |
the red mark on the knob |
Push lower side ("O" mark) is visible to turn "OFF..
Wall receptacle
Power line plug
To run the machine and control the speed, press the speed controller. The harder you press, the faster the machine will sew. To stop the machine from sewing, remove your foot from the speed controller.
Caution:
®Be sure that the electrical voltage of the socket outlet (wall receptacle) is the same as the rated voltage of the motor.
®Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor. Be sure not to place anything on top of it when not in use.
®Disconnect the power-line plug from the socket outlet when changing needles, presser feet or throat
plates, or when leaving the machine unattended. This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine by accidentally pressing the speed controller.
• Before cleaning your machine, disconnect the power-fine plug from the socket outlet.
5.Preparation for threading
• Setting up the thread guide holder
Extend the thread guide holder as far as possible and set the thread guides so that they are located right above the spool pins.
Place the thread on the spool stand as shown in the figure at the left.
When using synthetic threads that easily spill off the cone, slip the anti-spill sleeve furnished with the machine over the thread from the bottom of the cone leaving the thread end hanging free at the top of the anti-spill sleeve as shown above.
When using a regular thread spool, fit the spool cap supplied with the machine onto the thread spool as shown at left.
• Needle Positions
Three needles can be inserted to the needle clamp on this machine as shown in the sketch but only one or two needles are to be used for sewing. Do not attempt to use three needles.
A.Overedge right needle-
B. Overedge left needle— |
-O |
C. Chainstitch needle_____________________________
The Operator’s Guide refers to different needle positions by illustrating the needle clamp as shown in the following examples:
Note: When both the left and right overedge needles arc inserted, the left needle will be slightly higher than the right.
How to insert the needles
Use Singer needles Cat. No. 2054 available in sizes #14 and #10.
To remove the needles:
•Be sure the power line plug is disconnected from the wall socket.
•Turn the hand wheel over toward you until the needles are at their highest position. Loosen the needle set screws with the small screwdriver and remove the needles.
To replace the needles:
•Insert the needles into the needle clamp as far as they will go with the flat surface to the rear and firmly tighten the needle set screws.
Note: One screw holds in both the left and right overedge needles.
How to open looper cover
(T) Push the cover to the right as far as it will go and
(D Pull cover down toward you.
Be sure looper cover is closed when sewing.
' How to remove cylinder cover
To replace cover
© While pulling the cylinder cover to the left, |
© Place tab A under the throat plate. |
(2) Lift cover upward and off the machine. |
@ Press cover downward to the right. |
■K' Do not hold the cylinder cover when lifting or carrying the machine.
How to thread the machine
To thread the machine correctly, simply follow the steps on the following pages making reference to the threading chart on the inner side of the looper cover showing the threading paths in different colors.
• How to change threads
When you wish to change the chainstitch needle thread, left overedge needle thread, right overedge needle thread, left looper thread, right looper thread or chainstitch looper thread with a different thread, the following steps will make the changing convenient.
(1)Cut the thread near the spool and tie the end to the thread you wish to change to as shown in figure at right.
(2)Raise presser foot.
(3)Note tension reference numbers.
(4)Turn the tension dials down toward the (—) mark until the dial stops and
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draw the thread out so that the tie |
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knot of the threads extend |
about |
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5cm (2 inches) from the presser foot. |
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When drawing needle thread through |
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the needle eye, stop the tie |
knot |
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before the needle eye, cut the thread |
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and pass it through the needle eye. |
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(5) |
Return tension dials to reference |
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numbers. |
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Chain off and test sew
Thread cutter
When the machine is completely threaded, turn the hand wheel toward you 2 or 3 turns while holding the 4 threads applying a slight tension as shown in figure at left.
After chaining off, make a test stitch on a sample of your fabric so that you can adjust the thread tensions correctly.
After completing the seam, chain off approx. 5 cm (2 inches) as shown in figure at left and cut thread with the thread cutter on the presser foot.
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6.How to sew double chainstitch
The |
double |
chainstitch is sewn with 2 threads, |
one needle and one looper. Normally, this machine trims |
the |
fabric |
edge while the seam is being sewn |
however, a chainstitch seam can be placed at a desired |
distance from edge of fabric by putting the knife in a non-operating position, disengaging the right looper and installing the chainstitch seam width gage.
(1) Move knife into non-operating position
• Turn the hand wheel over toward you until the movable knife is at its lowest position and set it in the non-operating position as shown in the sketch below.
Push the movable |
knife holder to the right as |
As shown above, the movable knife will |
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far as it will go |
and turn the knob in |
the |
be in a non-operating position. |
direction shown. |
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(2) Disengage right looper |
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Turn |
hand wheel over toward you until right looper is |
at its lowest position.
•With the large screwdriver, turn right looper lock screw
counterclockwise until it comes out of right looper driving lever.
• Pull out the screw with your fingers until it stops.
To re-engage right looper
•Turn hand wheel toward you until right looper driving block is at its highest position.
•Lift right looper driving lever at point A and hold in place as you turn screw clockwise to tighten.
Right looper driving block
(3)Remove knife cover and install chainstitch seam width gage.
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(4) Threading for chainstitch
• To thread the chainstitch looper
Open looper cover. Thread chainstitch looper in the order (f) to (9) as shown. (Purple thread path)
While holding thread with finger, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs.
when threading looper thread hole (7) > (D •
• Draw about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread from the looper thread hole.
(5) To thread the chainstitch needle
Thread the chainstitch needle thread in the order (T) to (9) as shown. (Blue path)
While holding thread with finger, pass it between the tension discs and puli thread down to make certain it is properly located in be tween the tension discs.
• Use tweezer to thread eye
d ) .
•Draw about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread from needle eye.
(6) Correct thread tensions for double chainstitch
Be sure the threads are correctly threaded otherwise proper tension cannot be obtained.
Set each tension dial to settings shown below and test sew on a sample of your fabric.
Fabric |
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Tension Dial |
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Chainstitch needle thread tension dial (blue) |
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Blue |
Green |
Orange |
Y ellow |
Purple |
Chainstitch looper thread tension dial (purple) |
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Light weight |
2.0 |
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1.5 |
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Medium weight |
3.5 |
1 |
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1.5 |
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Heavy weight |
6.0 |
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L |
1.5 |
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Adjust thread tensions to suit your fabric making reference to table below.
When needle thread is too loose
Note: When adjusting tension dials, make your adjustments in small iiicrcmcnts of no greater than half a number at a time. (For example 2.0 to 2.5)
Turn needle thread tension dial (blue) toward the (+) mark.
Or, turn chainstitch looper thread tension dial (purple) toward the (—) mark.
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