Rover 800 User Manual

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Rover 820, 825 & 827

Service and Repair Manual

J. S. Mead

Models covered

Rover 820, 825, 827 and Sterling models with 4-cylinder and V6 petrol engines, including special/limited editions 1994 cc, 2494 cc & 2675 cc

Does not cover 8-valve carburettor (petrol) engine or Diesel-engined models

(1380-304-11AA3)

in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 273 8 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil,

Somerset BA22 7JJ Haynes Publishing

Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

Editions Haynes S.A.

147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 Paris, France

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

Box 1504, 751 45 Uppsala, Sweden

ABCDE FGHIJ KLMNO PQRST

1 2 3

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Contents

LIVING WITH YOUR ROVER

Introduction Page 0•4 Safety First! Page 0•5 General dimensions and weights Page 0•6

Roadside Repairs

Jacking, towing and wheel changing Page 0•7 Jump starting Page 0•9 Identifying leaks Page 0•10

Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system – precaution Page 0•10 Conversion Factors Page 0•11

ROUTINE MAINTENANCE

Routine maintenance and servicing

Routine maintenance Page 1•1 Servicing Specifications Page 1•2 Lubricants, fluids and capacities Page 1•3 Maintenance schedule Page 1•4 Maintenance procedures Page 1•8

Weekly checks Page 1•8 Every 6000 or six months Page 1•11 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months Page 1•13 Every 24 000 miles or 2 years Page 1•23 Every 48 000 miles Page 1•26 Every 60 000 miles or 5 years Page 1•26

REPAIRS & OVERHAUL

Engine and Associated Systems

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures Page 2A•1 V6 engine – in-car engine repair procedures Page 2B•1 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures Page 2C•1 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Page 3•1 Fuel and exhaust systems – Single-point injection engines Page 4A•1 Fuel and exhaust systems – Lucas multi-point injection engines Page 4B•1 Fuel and exhaust systems – MEMS multi-point injection engines Page 4C•1 Fuel and exhaust systems – Honda PGM-Fi injection engines Page 4D•1 Fuel and exhaust systems – Emissions control systems Page 4E•1 Engine electrical systems Page 5•1

Transmission

Clutch Page 6•1 Manual transmission Page 7A•1 Automatic transmission Page 7B•1 Driveshafts Page 8•1

Brakes

Braking system Page 9•1

Suspension and Steering

Suspension and steering systems Page 10•1

Body Equipment

Bodywork and fittings Page 11•1 Body electrical systems Page 12•1

Wiring Diagrams Page 12•19

REFERENCE

MOT Test Checks Page REF•1 General Repair Procedures Page REF•5 Tools and Working Facilities Page REF•6 Buying Spare Parts and Vehicle Identification Numbers Page REF•9 Fault Finding Page REF•10 Glossary of Technical Terms Page REF•18

Index Page REF•23

Contents

Designed in conjunction with the Honda Motor Company of Japan, the Rover 800 series was launched in the UK in July 1986 as a replacement for the ageing Rover SD1. Initially available in four-door Saloon guise, a Fastback version was added to the range in mid-1988. Minor styling revisions were applied to various models in the intervening years, culminating in a major facelift to all models for the 1992 model year. This saw the introduction of the “second generation” Rover 800 series with significant styling and engineering revisions, together with the launch of the Coupe model later in the same year.

Three different engines are used in the Rover models covered by this manual. 820 models are powered by a 2.0 litre, 4-cylinder, sixteen valve engine with singlepoint or multi-point fuel injection. The early version of this power unit is based on the proven O-series engine used previously in the Montego and earlier Austin Rover vehicles, but with an all new cylinder head and valve train. For the 1992 model year the T-series version was announced which shared many of the O-series components but with significant revisions in many areas. Both these engines

are available in normally aspirated or turbocharged versions.

825, 827 and Sterling models are powered by a 2.5 or 2.7 litre V6 twenty four valve engine with programmed fuel injection. Both versions of this engine are virtually identical apart from an increase in cylinder bore diameter to provide the larger capacity of the

2.7 litre unit.

On all models, the engine is mounted transversely at the front of the car and drives the front wheels through a five-speed manual, or four speed automatic transmission.

Suspension is independent at the front by double wishbones and coil springs, and at the rear by transverse links and coil springs. Power-assisted steering is standard on all models.

A comprehensive range of electrical and interior features are offered as standard equipment, including electric front windows, central locking and stereo radio cassette player. Anti-lock braking, air conditioning, headlight wash, electric rear windows, driver and passenger airbags and many other features and accessories are also available as optional or standard equipment according to model.

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug, who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Project vehicles

The main project vehicle used in the preparation of this manual, and appearing in many of the photographic sequences was a 1986 Rover 820 Se Saloon. Additional work was carried out and photographed on a 1988 Rover 820 Si Fastback and a 1992 Rover Sterling.

0•4 Introduction

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Introduction to the Rover 800 Series

Rover 820i Saloon Rover 800 Coupe

Safety First! 0•5

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Scalding

• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot.

• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing

• When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps.

Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack.

• Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive.

• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.

• Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools).

• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit.

• Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.

• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock

• Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication

• Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut.

• Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice.

• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket.

• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Asbestos

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Special hazards

Hydrofluoric acid

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 4000C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed,

the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned.

• When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery.

• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags

• Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body

to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember...

• Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle – especially the electrical system.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

A few tips

DON’T

• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability – get assistance.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

0•6 General dimensions and weights

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Dimensions

Overall length:

Pre-1992 model year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4694.0 mm

1992 model year onwards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4882.0 mm

Overall width - including mirrors:

Pre-1992 model year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1946.0 mm

1992 model year onwards:

Saloon and Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1965.0 mm

Coupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1900.0 mm

Overall height (unladen):

Pre-1992 model year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1398.0 mm

1992 model year onwards:

Saloon and Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1363.0 mm

Coupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1400.0 mm

Wheelbase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2760.0 mm

Front track . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1490.0 mm

Rear track . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1450.0 mm

Ground clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145.0 mm

Weights

Kerb weight*:

820 Saloon models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1305 to 1405 kg

820 Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1335 to 1435 kg

820 Coupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1420 kg

825 and Sterling Saloon models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1360 to 1400 kg

827 and Sterling Saloon models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1400 to 1470 kg

827 and Sterling Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1410 to 1510 kg

827 Coupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1450 kg

Maximum roof rack load:

Saloon and Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 kg

Coupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 kg

Maximum towing weight:

820 models with manual transmission:

Braked trailer (all models except Turbo) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1550 kg

Braked trailer (Turbo models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1025 kg

Unbraked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 kg

820 models with automatic transmission:

Braked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1025 kg

Unbraked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 kg

825, 827 and Sterling models:

Braked trailer** . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1550 kg

Unbraked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 kg

Maximum towing hitch downward load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 kg

*Depending on model and specification - refer to Rover dealer for exact recommendations. **On automatic transmission models, an auxiliary fluid cooler must be fitted if the towing weight is to exceed 1000 kg.

Roadside Repairs 0•7

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Jacking, towing and wheel changing

Jacking

The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit should only be used for changing the roadwheels - see “Wheel changing” later in this Section. When carrying out any other kind of work, raise the vehicle using a hydraulic (or “trolley”) jack, and always supplement the jack with axle stands positioned under the vehicle jacking points (see illustration).

When using a hydraulic jack or axle stands, always position the jack head or axle stand

head under one of the relevant jacking points.

To raise the front of the vehicle, position the jack head under the front towing eye which is welded to the longitudinal support member running under the engine. Do not position the jack under the longitudinal member itself, or under the sump or any of the steering or suspension components.

To raise the rear of the vehicle, position the jack head under the rear towing eye which is welded to the reinforcement panel under the spare wheel carrier.

If the side of the vehicle is to be raised, position the jack head under the reinforced areas at the front or rear of the side sills.

The jack supplied with the vehicle also locates in the reinforced areas of the side sills. Ensure that the jack head is correctly engaged before attempting to raise the vehicle.

Never work under, around or near a raised vehicle unless it is adequately supported in at least two places.

Jacking points and axle stand locations

1 Front towing eye - used for raising the front of the car 2 Reinforced sill area - used for raising the side of the car, or

supporting on axle stands

3 Front chassis member - used for supporting the car on axle

stands

4 Rear chassis member - used for supporting the car on axle stands

5 Reinforced sill area - used for raising the side of the car, or

supporting on axle stands 6 Rear towing eye - used for raising the rear of the car 7 Square tubular chassis sections - Not suitable for jacking or

supporting 8 Suspension components - Not suitable for jacking or supporting

0•8 Roadside Repairs

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Towing

Towing eyes are fitted to the front and rear of the vehicle for attachment of a tow rope. The front towing eye is situated under the centre of the front bumper and the rear towing eye is located under the centre of the rear bumper behind a detachable trim plate.

Always turn the ignition key to position II to ensure that the steering is unlocked and that the various switches (indicators and lights) are functional. It should also be noted that the brake servo and power-assisted steering will not be operating with the engine switched off and therefore an allowance will need to be made for reduced braking efficiency and increased steering effort.

Before being towed, release the handbrake and place the gear lever in neutral. Do not tow at a speed greater than 30 mph. On no account may the car be towed with the front wheels on the ground if the transmission is faulty, if the transmission oil or fluid is low or if the towing distance is greater than 30 miles.

Wheel changing

To change a roadwheel, first remove the spare wheel and jack which are located under the luggage compartment floor (see illustration). Firmly apply the handbrake and engage first gear on manual transmission models or PARK on automatic transmission models. Place chocks at the front and rear of the wheel diagonally opposite the one to be changed.

Remove the wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts with the tools provided in the tool kit. Position the jack head in the reinforced jacking point, at the base of the sill nearest to the wheel to be changed. Raise the jack to just take the weight of the car. If the tyre is flat, position the base of the jack so that it is flat on the ground. If the tyre is not flat, position the jack so that the base elbow is resting on the ground and the base is just clear (see illustration). Raise the vehicle until the wheel is just clear of the ground, then remove the wheel nuts and the wheel. Fit the spare wheel and screw on the wheel nuts. Lower the jack until the tyre is just touching the ground, and tighten the wheel nuts moderately tight. Now lower the jack fully and tighten the wheel nuts securely in a diagonal sequence. Refit the wheel trim, then remove the jack and stow it together with the wheel and tools in the luggage compartment. Remember to check

the tightness of the wheel nuts using a torque wrench at the earliest opportunity.

Spare wheel and tool locations

1 Tool kit 2 Floor panel

3 Spare wheel clamp 4 Spare wheel

Using the vehicle tool kit jack

1 Jack base positioned flat on the ground (deflated tyre) 2 Jack positioned with base elbow on the ground, and base just clear (inflated tyre)

Roadside Repairs 0•9

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

4 Before connecting the booster

battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.

4 Ensure that all electrical equipment

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

4 Make sure that the booster battery is

the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

4 If the battery is being jump-started

from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

4 Make sure that the transmission is in

neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are

three possibilities:

The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by

leaving the lights on.

The charging system is not working

properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).

The battery itself is at fault

(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started.

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.

Jump starting

0•10 Roadside Repairs

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

Identifying leaks

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking. Some

fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak.

Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil Gearbox oil

Brake fluid Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system - precaution

The radio/cassette unit fitted as standard equipment by Rover is equipped with a builtin security code, to deter thieves. If the power source to the unit is cut, the anti-theft system will activate. Even if the power source is immediately reconnected, the radio/cassette unit will not function until the correct security

code has been entered. Therefore, if you do not know the correct security code for the radio/cassette unit do not disconnect either of the battery terminals, or remove the radio/cassette unit from the vehicle.

To enter the correct security code, follow

the instructions provided with the radio/cassette player handbook.

If an incorrect code is entered, the unit will

become locked, and cannot be operated.

If this happens, or if the security code is lost or forgotten, seek the advice of your Rover dealer.

Conversion Factors 0•11

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Length (distance)

Inches (in) x 25.4 = Millimetres (mm) x 0.0394 = Inches (in) Feet (ft) x 0.305 = Metres (m) x 3.281 = Feet (ft) Miles x 1.609 = Kilometres (km) x 0.621 = Miles

Volume (capacity)

Cubic inches (cu in; in3) x 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm3) x 0.061 = Cubic inches (cu in; in3) Imperial pints (Imp pt) x 0.568 = Litres (l) x 1.76 = Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) x 1.137 = Litres (l) x 0.88 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) x 1.201 = US quarts (US qt) x 0.833 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) x 0.946 = Litres (l) x 1.057 = US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) x 4.546 = Litres (l) x 0.22 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) x 1.201 = US gallons (US gal) x 0.833 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal) x 3.785 = Litres (l) x 0.264 = US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight)

Ounces (oz) x 28.35 = Grams (g) x 0.035 = Ounces (oz) Pounds (lb) x 0.454 = Kilograms (kg) x 2.205 = Pounds (lb)

Force

Ounces-force (ozf; oz) x 0.278 = Newtons (N) x 3.6 = Ounces-force (ozf; oz) Pounds-force (lbf; lb) x 4.448 = Newtons (N) x 0.225 = Pounds-force (lbf; lb) Newtons (N) x 0.1 = Kilograms-force (kgf; kg) x 9.81 = Newtons (N)

Pressure

Pounds-force per square inch x 0.070 = Kilograms-force per square x 14.223 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Pounds-force per square inch x 0.068 = Atmospheres (atm) x 14.696 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Pounds-force per square inch x 0.069 = Bars x 14.5 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Pounds-force per square inch x 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa) x 0.145 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Kilopascals (kPa) x 0.01 = Kilograms-force per square x 98.1 = Kilopascals (kPa)

centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2) Millibar (mbar) x 100 = Pascals (Pa) x 0.01 = Millibar (mbar) Millibar (mbar) x 0.0145 = Pounds-force per square inch x 68.947 = Millibar (mbar)

(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Millibar (mbar) x 0.75 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) x 1.333 = Millibar (mbar) Millibar (mbar) x 0.401 = Inches of water (inH2O) x 2.491 = Millibar (mbar)

Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) x 0.535 = Inches of water (inH

O) x 1.868 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)

Inches of water (inH2O) x 0.036 = Pounds-force per square inch x 27.68 = Inches of water (inH2O)

(psi; lbf/in

; lb/in2)

Torque (moment of force)

Pounds-force inches x 1.152 = Kilograms-force centimetre x 0.868 = Pounds-force inches (lbf in; lb in) (kgf cm; kg cm) (lbf in; lb in) Pounds-force inches x 0.113 = Newton metres (Nm) x 8.85 = Pounds-force inches

(lbf in; lb in) (lbf in; lb in) Pounds-force inches x 0.083 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 12 = Pounds-force inches (lbf in; lb in) (lbf in; lb in) Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 0.138 = Kilograms-force metres x 7.233 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)

(kgf m; kg m) Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 1.356 = Newton metres (Nm) x 0.738 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) Newton metres (Nm) x 0.102 = Kilograms-force metres x 9.804 = Newton metres (Nm)

(kgf m; kg m)

Power

Horsepower (hp) x 745.7 = Watts (W) x 0.0013 = Horsepower (hp)

Velocity (speed)

Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph) x 1.609 = Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) x 0.621 = Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption*

Miles per gallon (mpg) x 0.354 = Kilometres per litre (km/l) x 2.825 = Miles per gallon (mpg)

Temperature

Degrees Fahrenheit = (°C x 1.8) + 32 Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) x 0.56

* It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (l/100km), where mpg x l/100 km = 282

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Engine

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Oil filter:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion B101

V6 engines:

paper type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X119

cannister type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion E102

Cooling system

Coolant protection at 33% antifreeze/water mixture ratio:

Slush point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -19ºC (-2ºF)

Solidifying point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -36ºC (-33ºF)

Coolant protection at 50% antifreeze/water mixture ratio:

Slush point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -36ºC (-33ºF)

Solidifying point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -48ºC (-54ºF)

Fuel system

Air filter element:

“M” series 4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W114

“T” series 4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available

V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W601

Fuel filter:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L208

V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L207

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Accelerator cable and linkage check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Air conditioning system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Automatic transmission fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

Auxiliary drivebelts check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Battery check, maintenance and charging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

Braking system hydraulic fluid seal check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . 40

Clutch operation and hydraulic hose condition check . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

Cooling system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Door, boot, tailgate and bonnet check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Driveshaft rubber gaiter and CV joint check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Emissions control equipment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

Engine base idle speed and CO content check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Engine compartment wiring check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Manual transmission oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Manual transmission oil renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Roadwheel nut tightness check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Routine maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Steering, suspension and roadwheel check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Timing belt condition and tension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

Tyre and tyre pressure checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Underbody and fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . . . . . . . . . . 8

Windscreen/tailgate and headlight washer system and wiper

blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

1•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Ignition system

Firing order:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)

V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-4-2-5-3-6 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end on rear bank)

Spark plugs:

Type: *

4-cylinder normally aspirated engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC9YCC

4-cylinder turbocharged engines up to 1992 model year . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC

4-cylinder turbocharged engines 1992 model year onwards . . . . . Champion RC9YCC

V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC9YCC4

Electrode gap: *

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm

V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

Spark plug (HT) leads:

Type:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-05 boxed set

V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion boxed set not available

Maximum resistance per lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 000 ohms

* Information on spark plug types and electrode gaps is as recommended by Champion Spark Plug. Where alternative types are used, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations

Braking system

Front brake pad thickness (including backing but excluding shims):

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17.4 mm

Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.2 mm

Rear brake pad thickness (including backing):

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14.5 mm

Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.2 mm

Tyres

Tyre pressures (cold): Front Rear

195/70 VR 14 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 bar (26 psi) 1.8 bar (26 psi)

195/65 VR 15 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar (28 psi) 2.0 bar (28 psi)

205/55 VR or ZR 16 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.2 bar (32 psi)

205/60 VR 15 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar (28 psi) 2.0 bar (28 psi)

215/45 ZR 17 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 bar (34 psi) 1.9 bar (28 psi)

115/70 R 15 (space saver spare tyre) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.1 bar (60 psi) 4.1 bar (60 psi)

Note: For sustained high speeds above 100 mph (160 km/h), increased pressures are necessary. Consult the driver’s handbook supplied with the vehicle.

Wiper blades

Windscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-5103

Tailgate/rear window . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-5103

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Power steering pump bolts:

4-cylinder engines - rear-mounted pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

4-cylinder engines - front-mounted pump:

Early version (4 mounting bolts) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Later version (5 mounting bolts) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

V6 engines:

Mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 29

Adjusting nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Power steering pump drivebelt tensioner wheel retaining

nut (4-cylinder engines - rear mounted pump) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Alternator pivot and mounting bolts (4-cylinder engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Alternator adjustment bracket bolts (4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Alternator side pivot bolt (V6 engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Alternator lower mounting nut (V6 engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 17

Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Manual transmission filler/level and drain plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Automatic transmission drain plugs:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Spark plugs:

4-cylinder engines up to 1991 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

4-cylinder engines from 1991 onward . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81

1•2 Specifications

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Lubricants and fluids

Component or system Lubricant type/specification

1 Engine Multigrade engine oil to specification API SG/CD or better,

viscosity range 5W/50 to 10W/40

2 Cooling system Soft water, and antifreeze (ethylene glycol-based, suitable

for use in mixed-metal cooling systems)

3 Manual transmission Multigrade engine oil to specification API SG/CD or better,

viscosity 10W/40

4 Automatic transmission Dexron IID type ATF 5 Power steering fluid reservoir Dexron IID type ATF 6 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir Hydraulic fluid to FMVSS 116 DOT 4 General greasing Multipurpose lithium based grease

Capacities

Engine oil (including filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litres

Cooling system:

4-cylinder engines:

“M” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 litres

“T” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 litres

V6 engines:

2.5 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 litres

2.7 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.6 litres

Manual transmission (drain and refill) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 litres

Automatic transmission (drain and refill):

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litres

V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.2 litres

Power steering reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 litres

Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 litres

Lubricants, fluids and capacities 1•3

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Rover 800 Series maintenance schedule

1•4 Maintenance and servicing

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

The manufacturer’s recommended maintenance schedule for these vehicles is as described below - note that the schedule starts from the vehicle’s date of registration. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the factory for vehicles driven daily, but subjected only to “normal” use. If you wish to keep your car in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures even more often. Because frequent maintenance enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your car, we encourage you to do so. If your usage is not “normal”, shorter intervals are also recommended - the most important examples of

these are noted in the schedule. These shorter intervals apply particularly if you drive in dusty areas, tow a caravan or trailer, sit with the engine idling or drive at low speeds for extended periods (ie, in heavy traffic), or drive for short distances (less than four miles) in below-freezing temperatures.

Although the manufacturer’s intervals have been extended to one main service at 12 000 mile (12 monthly) intervals for 1994 models onward, the earlier schedule which also includes a lubrication service at 6000 mile (6 monthly) intervals, is the schedule shown in this Chapter.

W eekly checks

mm Check the engine oil level, and top-up if necessary

(Section 3).

mm Check the brake fluid level, and top-up if necessary

(Section 3). If repeated topping-up is required, check the system for leaks or damage at the earliest possible opportunity (Section 24).

mm Check the windscreen/tailgate and headlight washer fluid

level, and top-up if necessary (Section 3).

mm Check the tyre pressures, including the spare (Section 4). mm Visually check the tyres for excessive tread wear, or

damage (Section 4).

mm Check the operation of all (exterior and interior) lights and

the horn, wipers and windscreen/tailgate washer system (Sections 6 and 13).

mm Renew any blown bulbs (Chapter 12), and clean the

lenses of all exterior lights.

mm Check the coolant level, and top-up if necessary (Sec-

tion 3).

mm Check the battery electrolyte level, where applicable

(Section 3).

mm Check the power steering fluid level, and top-up if

necessary (Section 5).

mm Check the aim of the windscreen/tailgate/headlight

washer jets, correcting them if required (Section 6).

mm Check the condition of the wiper blades, renewing them if

worn or no longer effective (Section 6).

mm Visually check all reservoirs, hoses and pipes for leakage

(Section 8).

mm Check the operation of the air conditioning system (where

applicable) (Section 18).

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months, whichever occurs first

mm Check the cooling system (Section 9). mm Check the operation of the accelerator cable and linkage

(Section 10).

mm Renew the spark plugs (models without emission control

equipment) (Section 11).

mm Renew the air cleaner filter element (models without

emission control equipment) (Section 12).

mm Check the electrical system (Section 13). mm Check the battery (Section 14). mm Check the seat belts (Section 15). mm Check the auxiliary drivebelt(s) (Section 16). mm Check the condition of all engine compartment wiring

(Section 17).

mm Check the condition of all air conditioning system

components (where applicable) (Section 18).

mm Check the engine idle speed and mixture (where

applicable) (Section 19).

mm Check the manual transmission oil level (Section 20). mm Check the steering, suspension and roadwheels (Sec-

tion 21).

mm Check the driveshaft rubber gaiters and CV joints (Sec-

tion 22).

mm Check the exhaust system (Section 23). mm Check the underbody, and all fuel/brake lines (Sec-

tion 24).

mm Check the clutch operation and hydraulic hose condition

(Section 25).

mm Check the brake system (Section 26). mm Check the doors and bonnet, and lubricate their hinges

and locks (Section 27).

mm Check the condition of the bodywork and all exterior trim

(Section 28).

mm Check the security of all roadwheel nuts (Section 29). mm Road test (Section 30). mm Check the level of the automatic transmission fluid after

road test (Section 31).

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months, whichever occurs first

mm Change the engine oil and filter (Section 7). mm Check under the bonnet for fluid leaks and hose condition

(Section 8).

Maintenance and servicing 1•5

1 Vehicle identification plate 2 Screen washer reservoir filler 3 Power steering fluid reservoir

filler

4 Cooling system expansion tank

filler

5 Front shock absorber top

mounting

6 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir

filler 7 Brake master cylinder 8 Vacuum servo unit 9 Fuel filter 10 Power steering pump drivebelt

(early models) 11 Distributor cap 12 Ignition coil 13 Brake pressure reducing valve 14 Fuse and relay box 15 Battery negative terminal 16 Battery positive terminal 17 Ignition/fuel ECU 18 Air cleaner assembly 19 Radiator cooling fan 20 Air cleaner intake trunking 21 Engine oil dipstick 22 Alternator 23 Thermostat housing 24 Engine oil filler cap

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2 years, whichever occurs first

mm Renew the spark plugs (models with emission control

equipment) (Section 11).

mm Renew the air cleaner filter element (models with emission

control equipment) (Section 12).

mm Check the condition and tension of the timing belt

(Section 32).

mm Check the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system (Section 33). mm Renew the fuel filter (Section 34). mm Renew the automatic transmission fluid (Section 35). mm Renew the brake fluid (Section 36). mm Renew the manual transmission oil (Section 37). mm Renew the coolant (Section 38).

Every 48 000 miles (80 000 km)

mm Renew the timing belt (Section 39).

Every 60 000 miles (100 000 km) or 5 years, whichever occurs first

mm Renew the braking system rubber seals (recommendation

only) (Section 40).

mm Check the operation of the emission control equipment

(Section 41).

Engine compartment component locations 4-cylinder engine models with single-point fuel injection

1•6 Maintenance and servicing

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Vehicle identification plate 2 Screen washer reservoir filler 3 Power steering fluid reservoir

filler

4 Cooling system expansion tank

filler

5 Front shock absorber top

mounting

6 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir

filler 7 Brake master cylinder 8 Vacuum servo unit 9 Fuel filter 10 Ignition system ECU 11 Ignition coil 12 Brake pressure reducing valve 13 Fuse and relay box 14 Battery negative terminal 15 Battery positive terminal 16 Air cleaner assembly 17 Radiator cooling fan 18 Air cleaner intake trunking 19 Engine oil dipstick 20 Airflow meter 21 Throttle housing 22 Plenum chamber 23 Engine oil filler cap 24 Alternator 25 Power steering pump (later

models)

Engine compartment component locations 4-cylinder engine models with multi-point fuel injection

1 Engine oil dipstick 2 Screen washer reservoir filler 3 Power steering fluid reservoir

filler 4 Cooling system expansion tank

filler 5 Alternator 6 Power steering pump 7 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir

filler 8 Fuel filter 9 Control box 10 Ignition coil 11 Throttle body 12 ABS modulator 13 Fuse and relay box 14 Battery negative terminal 15 Battery positive terminal 16 Air cleaner assembly 17 Engine oil filler cap

Engine compartment component locations - V6 engine models

Maintenance and servicing 1•7

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Engine undertray 2 Front towing eye 3 Longitudinal support member 4 Clutch slave cylinder 5 Reversing light switch 6 Front tie-bar 7 Transmission drain plug 8 Inner constant velocity joint 9 Transmission filler plug 10 Front anti-roll bar 11 Gearchange rod 12 Steady rod 13 Fuel pipes 14 Exhaust section flange joint 15 Power steering gear 16 Steering track rod 17 Front lower suspension arm 18 Brake caliper 19 Oil filter 20 Driveshaft damper 21 Engine oil drain plug

Underside view at front end showing component locations on 4-cylinder engine models

1 Exhaust intermediate section 2 Fuel tank 3 Exhaust rear heat shield 4 Handbrake cable 5 Fuel pipes 6 Trailing link 7 Fuel filler neck connection 8 Transverse link 9 Fuel tank retaining straps 10 Rear anti-roll bar 11 Rear silencer 12 Brake caliper

Underside view at rear end

3 Fluid level checks

General

1 Fluids are an essential part of the lubrication, cooling, braking and other systems. Because these fluids gradually become depleted and/or contaminated during normal operation of the vehicle, they must be periodically replenished. See “Lubricants, fluids and capacities” at the beginning of this Chapter before adding fluid to any of the following components. Note: The vehicle

must be on level ground before fluid levels can be checked.

Engine oil

2 The engine oil level is checked with a dipstick located at the front of the engine in the centre, or on the right-hand side (see illustration). The dipstick extends through a metal tube, from which it protrudes down into the sump at the bottom of the engine. 3 The oil level should be checked before the vehicle is driven, or about 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. If the level is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will remain in the engine upper components, producing an inaccurate reading. 4 Pull the dipstick from the tube, and wipe all the oil from the end with a clean rag or paper towel; note the dipstick’s maximum and minimum levels, indicated by holes on the dipstick (see illustration). Insert the clean dipstick all the way back into its metal tube,

and pull it out again. Observe the oil on the end of the dipstick; its level should be between these two holes. 5 Do not allow the level to drop below the minimum level notch, or oil starvation may cause engine damage. Conversely, overfilling

the engine (adding oil above the maximum level notch) may cause oil-fouled spark plugs, oil leaks or oil seal failures. 6 The oil filler cap is screwed into the righthand front end of the valve cover; unscrew it to add oil (see illustrations). When topping-

Maintenance procedures

1•8 Maintenance and servicing

3.6b . . . and on V6 engines3.6a Topping up the engine oil on 4-

cylinder engines . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain the Rover 800 Series models for peak performance, economy, safety and long life.

Contained in this Chapter is a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each item on the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component replacement and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the location of various components.

Servicing your Rover in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide it with a

planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals will not produce the same results.

As you service your car, you will discover that many of the procedures can - and should be grouped together, because of the nature of the particular procedure you’re performing, or because of the close proximity to one another of two otherwise-unrelated components.

For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, you should inspect the exhaust, suspension, steering and fuel systems while you’re under the vehicle. When you’re checking the tyres, it makes good sense to check the brakes and wheel bearings, especially if the roadwheels have already been removed.

Finally, let’s suppose you have to borrow or

hire a torque wrench. Even if you only need to tighten the spark plugs, you might as well check the torque of as many critical fasteners as time allows.

2 Routine maintenance

The first step of this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the Sections which are relevant to the procedures you’re planning to carry out, then make a list of, and gather together, all the parts and tools you will need to do the job. If it looks as if you might run into problems during a particular segment of some procedure, seek advice from your local parts man or dealer service department.

Weekly checks

3.4 Note the dipstick’s maximum and

minimum levels, indicated by holes on the

dipstick

3.2 Engine oil dipstick location (arrowed) on V6 engines

up, use only the correct grade and type of oil, as given in the “Lubricants, fluids and capacities” Section of this Chapter; use a funnel if necessary to prevent spills. After adding the oil, refit the filler cap hand-tight. Start the engine, and allow it to idle while the oil is redistributed around the engine - while you are waiting, look carefully for any oil leaks, particularly around the oil filter or drain plug. Stop the engine; check the oil level again, after the oil has had enough time to drain from the upper block and cylinder head galleries. 7 Checking the oil level is an important preventive maintenance step. A continuallydropping oil level indicates oil leakage through damaged seals and from loose connections, or oil consumption past worn piston rings or valve guides. If the oil looks milky in colour, or has water droplets in it, the cylinder head gasket may be blown - the engine’s compression pressure should be checked immediately (see Chapter 2). The condition of the oil should also be checked. Each time you check the oil level, slide your thumb and index finger up the dipstick before wiping off the oil. If you see small dirt or metal particles clinging to the dipstick, the oil should be changed.

Coolant

Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank filler cap, or to disturb any part of the

cooling system, while it or the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding.

8 All vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with a sealed, pressurised cooling system. A translucent plastic expansion tank, located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment, is connected by a hose to the thermostat housing or radiator top hose. As the coolant heats up during engine operation, surplus coolant passes through the connecting hose into the expansion tank. As the engine cools, the coolant is automatically drawn back into the cooling system’s main components, to maintain the correct level. 9 While the coolant level must be checked regularly, remember that it will vary with the temperature of the engine. When the engine is cold, the level should be up to the pipe outlet on the side of the tank, but once the engine has warmed up, the level may rise to above this level. 10 For an accurate check of the coolant level, the engine must be cold and the level must be up to the pipe outlet. If it is below this level, the coolant must be topped-up as follows. 11 First prepare a sufficient quantity of coolant mixture, using clean, soft water and antifreeze of the recommended type, in the specified mixture ratio. If only a small amount of coolant is required to bring the system up to the proper level, plain water can be used, but repeatedly doing this will dilute the antifreeze/water solution in the system, reducing the protection it should provide against freezing and corrosion. To maintain

the specified antifreeze/water ratio, it is essential to top-up the coolant level with the correct mixture, as described here. Use only ethylene/glycol type antifreeze, and do not use supplementary inhibitors or additives.

Warning: Never remove the expansion tank filler cap when the engine is running, or has

just been switched off, as the cooling system will be hot, and the consequent escaping steam and scalding coolant could cause serious injury.

12 If topping-up is necessary, wait until the system has cooled completely (or at least 10 minutes after switching off the engine, if lack of time means it is absolutely necessary to top-up while the engine may still be warm). Wrap a thick cloth around the expansion tank filler cap, and unscrew it one full turn. If any hissing is heard as steam escapes, wait until the hissing ceases, indicating that pressure is released, then slowly unscrew the filler cap until it can be removed. If more hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before unscrewing the filler cap completely. At all times, keep your face, hands and other exposed skin well away from the filler opening. 13 When the filler cap has been removed, add coolant to bring the level up to the outlet pipe level (see illustration). Refit the cap, tightening it securely. 14 With this type of cooling system, the addition of coolant should only be necessary at very infrequent intervals. If topping-up is regularly required, or if the coolant level drops within a short time after replenishment, there may be a leak in the system. 15 Inspect the radiator, hoses, expansion tank filler cap, radiator drain plug and water pump. If no leak is evident, have the filler cap and the entire system pressure-tested by your dealer or garage; this will usually show up a small leak not otherwise visible.

Windscreen/tailgate and headlight washer fluid

16 Fluid for the windscreen/tailgate/headlight washer system is stored in a plastic reservoir, the filler neck of which is located at the righthand front corner of the engine compartment. 17 To check the fluid level, release the cap and observe the level in the reservoir by looking down the filler neck. In milder

climates, plain water can be used to top-up the reservoir, but the reservoir should be kept no more than two-thirds full, to allow for expansion should the water freeze. In colder climates, the use of a specially-formulated windscreen washer fluid, available at your dealer or any car accessory shop, will help lower the freezing point of the fluid. Do not use regular (engine) antifreeze - it will damage the vehicle’s paintwork.

Battery electrolyte

18 On models not equipped with a sealed battery (see Section 9), check the electrolyte level of all six battery cells. The level must be approximately 10 mm above the plates; this may be shown by maximum and minimum level lines marked on the battery’s casing. If the level is low, use a coin to release the filler/vent cap, and add distilled water. Install and retighten the cap.

Caution: Overfilling the cells may cause electrolyte to spill over during periods of heavy charging, causing corrosion or damage. Refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 9.

Brake fluid

19 The brake fluid reservoir is located on the top of the brake master cylinder, attached to the front of the vacuum servo unit. The “MAX” and “MIN” marks are indicated on the side of the translucent reservoir, and the fluid level should be maintained between these marks at all times. 20 The brake fluid inside the reservoir is readily visible. With the vehicle on level ground, the level should be on or just below the “MAX” mark. 21 Progressive wear of the brake pad linings causes the level of the brake fluid to gradually fall; however, when the brake pads are renewed, the original level of the fluid is restored. It is not therefore necessary to topup the level to compensate for this minimal drop, but the level must never be allowed to fall below the minimum mark. 22 If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag before removing the cap - do not invert the cap after removal. When adding fluid, pour it carefully into the reservoir, to avoid spilling it on surrounding painted surfaces (see illustration).

Weekly Checks 1•9

3.22 Topping up the brake master cylinder reservoir

3.13 Topping up the cooling system

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Be sure to use only the specified hydraulic fluid (see “Lubricants, fluids and capacities” at the start of this Chapter) since mixing different types of fluid can cause damage to the system.

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use

extreme caution when handling and pouring it. Wash off spills immediately with plenty of water. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air. Excess moisture can cause corrosion and a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

23 When adding fluid, it is a good idea to inspect the reservoir for contamination. The system should be drained and refilled if deposits, dirt particles or contamination are seen in the fluid. 24 After filling the reservoir to the correct level, make sure that the cap is refitted

securely, to avoid leaks and the entry of foreign matter. 25 If the reservoir requires repeated replenishing to maintain the correct level, this is an indication of an hydraulic leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately.

Power steering fluid

26 See Section 5 of this Chapter.

4 Tyre and tyre pressure

checks

1 Periodic inspection of the tyres may spare you from the inconvenience of being stranded with a flat tyre. It can also provide you with vital information regarding possible problems in the steering and suspension systems before major damage occurs. 2 The current tyres are equipped with tread wear indicator (TWI) bands, which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately

1.6 mm. Most tyres have a mark around the tyre at regular intervals to indicate the location of the tread wear indicators, the mark being TWI, an arrow, or the tyre manufacturer’s symbol. Tread wear can also be monitored with a simple inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge (see illustration). 3 Ensure that tyre pressures are checked regularly and maintained correctly (see the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter for pressures). Checking should be carried out with the tyres cold, and not immediately after

the vehicle has been in use. If the pressures are checked with the tyres hot, an apparentlyhigh reading will be obtained, owing to heat expansion. Under no circumstances should an attempt be made to reduce the pressures to the quoted cold reading in this instance, or effective under-inflation will result. Most garage forecourts have a pressure line which combines a gauge to check and adjust the tyre pressures, but they may vary in accuracy, due to general misuse and abuse. It therefore pays to carry a good-quality tyre pressure gauge in the vehicle, to make the checks required and ensure pressure accuracy.

4 Note any abnormal tread wear (see illustration). Tread pattern irregularities such

as feathering, flat spots, and more wear on one side than the other, are indications of front wheel alignment and/or balance problems. If any of these conditions are noted, they should be rectified as soon as possible. 5 Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, owing to excessive flexing of the casing, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a consequent loss of adhesion and excessive wear, as well as the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. 6 Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced adhesion, harder ride, and the danger of damage occurring in the tyre casing. 7 Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Remove any nails or stones

1•10 Weekly Checks

4.2 Checking the tyre tread depth with a depth gauge

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)

Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension parts

Hard cornering

Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation

Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.

Check and adjust pressures If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s

tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.

Incorrect camber or castor

Repair or renew suspension parts

Malfunctioning suspension

Repair or renew suspension parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

embedded in the tread, before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail reveals that the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail, so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Do not drive on a tyre in such a condition. If in any doubt as to the possible consequences of any damage found, consult your local tyre dealer for advice. 8 General tyre wear is influenced to a large degree by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. Interchanging of tyres may result in more even wear; however, it is worth bearing in mind that if this is completely effective, the added expense is incurred of replacing simultaneously a complete set of tyres, which may prove financially restrictive for many owners. 9 Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. The front wheels should always be correctly aligned according to the settings specified by the vehicle manufacturer. 10 Don’t forget to check the spare tyre for condition and pressure. 11 Legal restrictions apply to many aspects of tyre fitting and usage, and in the UK this information is contained in the Motor Vehicle Construction and Use Regulations. It is suggested that a copy of these regulations is obtained from your local police, if in doubt as to current legal requirements with regard to tyre type and condition, minimum tread depth, etc.

5 Power steering fluid level

check

1 The power steering fluid reservoir is located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment next to the cooling system expansion tank. 2 For the fluid level check on 4-cylinder models, the power steering system must be cold; on V6 models, it may be either hot or cold.

3 Use a clean rag to wipe the filler cap and the surrounding area, to prevent foreign matter from entering the system. Unscrew and remove the filler cap. 4 Check that the fluid level is up to the “MAX” mark on the dipstick. On V6 engine models, there is a scale on both sides of the dipstick, one for hot checking and one for cold checking. 5 Top-up the level to the “MAX” mark, using the grade of fluid specified at the beginning of this Chapter (see illustration). Be careful not to introduce dirt into the system, and do not overfill. The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated.

6 Refit the filler cap.

6 Windscreen/tailgate and

headlight washer system and wiper blade check

1 The windscreen and tailgate wiper and blade assembly should be inspected at the specified intervals for damage, loose components, and cracked or worn blade elements. 2 Road film can build up on the wiper blades and affect their efficiency, so they should be washed regularly with a mild detergent solution. 3 The action of the wiping mechanism can loosen bolts, nuts and fasteners, so they

should be checked and tightened, as necessary, at the same time as the wiper blades are checked. 4 If the wiper blade elements are cracked, worn or warped, or no longer clean adequately, they should be replaced with new ones. 5 Switch on the ignition, and the windscreen wipers, then park the wipers vertically on the windscreen while they are still running. Lift the wiper arm and blade away from the glass. 6 To remove the wiper blade, depress the catch on the blade attachment, then withdraw the blade assembly off the arm (see

illustration). 7 The tailgate wiper blade is removed in the

same way, but it is not necessary to park it in the centre of the glass prior to removal. 8 If the metal part of the wiper blade is in good condition, it may be possible to renew the rubber insert separately. The insert can be obtained from a car accessory shop and, according to type, it may need to be cut to the correct length before sliding into the clips. 9 Refit the wiper blade assembly using a reversal of the removal procedure, making sure that it fully engages with the spring clip. 10 Check that the washer jets direct the fluid onto the upper part of the windscreen/tailgate, and if necessary adjust the small sphere on the jet with a pin. Note that the headlight washer jets are of the fixed type and cannot be adjusted.

Weekly Checks 1•11

6.6 Remove the windscreen wiper blade

by depressing the catch on the blade, then

withdraw the blade assembly off the arm

5.5 Topping up the power steering fluid reservoir

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 6000 miles or 6 months, whichever occurs first

7 Engine oil and filter change

1 Make sure that you have all the necessary tools before you begin this procedure. You should also have plenty of rags or newspapers handy, for mopping up any spills. 2 To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. 3 Access to the underside of the vehicle is greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on a hoist, driven onto ramps, or supported by axle stands.

Warning: Do not work under a vehicle which is supported only by an hydraulic or scissor-type jack, or by bricks, blocks of wood, etc.

4 If this is your first oil change, get under the vehicle and familiarise yourself with the position of the engine oil drain plug location in the sump. The engine and exhaust components will be warm during the actual work, so try to anticipate any potential problems while the engine and accessories are cool. 5 The oil should preferably be changed when

Frequent oil changes are the best preventive maintenance the home

mechanic can give the engine, because ageing oil becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

the engine is still at normal operating temperature, just after a run; warm oil and sludge will flow out more easily. Park the vehicle on firm, level ground, apply the handbrake, then select 1st or reverse gear (manual transmission) or the “P” position (automatics). Open the bonnet and remove the engine oil filler cap from the valve cover, then remove the oil level dipstick. 6 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it securely on axle stands. Remove the front right-hand roadwheel, then remove the plastic panel under the wheelarch to provide additional access to the oil filter.

Warning: To avoid personal injury, never get beneath the vehicle when it is supported by

only by a jack. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed solely for raising the vehicle to remove and refit the roadwheels. Always use axle stands to support the vehicle when it becomes necessary to place your body underneath the vehicle.

7 Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust components, place the drain pan under the drain plug, and unscrew the plug. If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns. As the plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply, so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the pan, not up your sleeve! Allow the oil to drain into the drain pan, and check the condition of the plug’s sealing washer; renew it if worn or damaged. 8 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the pan as the oil flow slows to a trickle. When the oil has completely drained, wipe clean the drain plug and its threads in the sump and refit the plug, tightening it securely. 9 On all engines except the 2.5 litre V6, the oil filter renewal procedure is relatively simple; proceed as follows. Reposition the drain pan under the oil filter then, using a filter removal tool, unscrew the oil filter from the housing; be prepared for some oil spillage (see illustration). Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the engine; if it has, carefully remove it. Withdraw

the filter, taking care to spill as little oil as possible. 10 Using a clean, lint-free rag, wipe clean the cylinder block around the filter mounting. If there are no specific instructions supplied with it, fit a new oil filter as follows. Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the filter’s sealing ring. Screw the filter into position on the engine until it seats, then tighten it through a further half- to three-quarters of a turn only. Tighten the filter by hand only - do not use any tools. 11 On 2.5 litre V6 engines the filter is a cartridge contained within the filter housing. 12 Reposition the drain pan under the filter assembly and first, drain the filter by unscrewing the drain plug on the side of the housing (see illustration). Refit the plug when the filter has drained. Now undo the three retaining nuts and withdraw the baseplate from the filter assembly. As you do this be prepared for oil spillage and catch the filter cartridge and its components, which will fall out and probably land in the oil as the baseplate is removed. Retrieve the filter lower spring and the sealing ring on the baseplate. 13 Clean the baseplate thoroughly and wipe around the inside of the filter housing using a clean lint-free rag. 14 Locate the new sealing ring in the baseplate, then fit the spring to the locating lugs in the baseplate. Locate the filter in the housing, and refit the baseplate. Screw on the three nuts and tighten them securely. 15 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the vehicle, refit the access panel and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground. 16 Refill the engine with oil, using the correct grade and type of oil, as given in the “Lubricants, fluids and capacities” Section of this Chapter. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time, until the level is up

to the lower notch on the dipstick. Adding approximately 0.5 to 1.0 litre will raise the level to the dipstick’s upper notch. 17 Start the engine. The oil pressure warning light will take a few seconds to go out while the new filter fills with oil; do not race the engine while the light is on. Run the engine for a few minutes, while checking for leaks around the oil filter seal and the drain plug. 18 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter now completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, adding more oil as necessary. 19 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to “General repair procedures” in the Reference Section of this manual.

8 Underbonnet check for fluid

leaks and hose condition

Caution: Renewal of air conditioning hoses must be left to a dealer service department or air conditioning specialist who has the equipment to depressurise the system safely. Never remove air conditioning components or hoses until the system has been depressurised.

General

1 High temperatures in the engine compartment can cause the deterioration of the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine, accessory and emission systems operation. Periodic inspection should be made for cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and leaks. 2 Carefully check the large top and bottom radiator hoses, along with the other smallerdiameter cooling system hoses and metal pipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipes which run from the engine to the bulkhead. Inspect each hose along its entire length, replacing any that is cracked, swollen or shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may become more apparent if the hose is squeezed. 3 Make sure that all hose connections are tight. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits on the areas adjoining the leak; if the spring clamps that are used to secure the hoses in this system appear to be slackening, they should be renewed to prevent the possibility of leaks. 4 Some other hoses are secured to their fittings with clamps. Where clamps are used, check that they haven’t lost their tension, allowing the hose to leak. If clamps aren’t used, make sure the hose has not expanded and/or hardened where it slips over the fitting, allowing it to leak. 5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs of leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering

1•12 Every 6000 miles

7.12 Oil filter cartridge components on

2.5 litre V6 engines

1 Engine oil drain plug 2 Oil filter housing drain plug 3 Baseplate retaining nuts 4 Baseplate 5 Oil filter cartridge 6 Spring locating lugs 7 Spring 8 Sealing ring

7.9 Using a filter removal tool, unscrew the oil filter from the housing

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

fluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in the same place, close inspection of the ground underneath it will soon show any leaks; ignore the puddle of water which will be left if the air conditioning system is in use. As soon as a leak is detected, its source must be traced and rectified. Where oil has been leaking for some time, it is usually necessary to use a steam cleaner, pressure washer or similar, to clean away the accumulated dirt, so that the exact source of the leak can be identified.

Vacuum hoses

6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses, especially those in the emissions system, to be numbered or colour-coded, or to be identified by coloured stripes moulded into them. Various systems require hoses with different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance and temperature resistance. When renewing hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the same material. 7 Often the only effective way to check a hose is to remove it completely from the vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure correct installation. 8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to include any plastic T-fittings in the check. Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check the hose where it fits over the fitting

for distortion, which could cause leakage. 9 A small piece of vacuum hose (quarter-inch inside diameter) can be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end of the hose to your ear, and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the “hissing” sound characteristic of a vacuum leak.

Warning: When probing with the vacuum hose stethoscope, be very careful not to come into

contact with moving engine components such as the auxiliary drivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.

Fuel hoses

Warning: There are certain

precautions which must be

taken when inspecting or

servicing fuel system components. Work in a well-ventilated area, and do not allow open flames (cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) or bare light bulbs near the work area. Mop up any spills immediately, and do not store fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.

10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas where the hose bends, and also just before fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the fuel filter.

11 High-quality fuel line, usually identified by the word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on the hose, should be used for fuel line renewal. Never, under any circumstances, use unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing or water hose for fuel lines. 12 Spring-type clamps are commonly used on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their tension over a period of time, and can be “sprung” during removal. Replace all springtype clamps with screw clamps whenever a hose is replaced.

Metal lines

13 Sections of metal piping are often used for fuel line between the fuel filter and the engine. Check carefully to be sure the piping has not been bent or crimped, and that cracks have not started in the line. 14 If a section of metal fuel line must be renewed, only seamless steel piping should be used, since copper and aluminium piping don’t have the strength necessary to withstand normal engine vibration. 15 Check the metal brake lines where they enter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulic unit (if used) for cracks in the lines or loose fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls for an immediate and thorough inspection of the brake system.

Every 12 000 miles 1•13

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months, whichever occurs first

9 Cooling system check

1 The engine should be cold for the cooling system checks, so perform the following procedure before driving the vehicle, or after it has been shut off for at least three hours. 2 Remove the expansion tank filler cap (Section 3), and clean it thoroughly inside and out with a rag. Clean the filler neck on the expansion tank. The presence of rust or corrosion in the filler neck indicates that the coolant should be changed. The coolant inside the expansion tank should be relatively clean and transparent. If it is rust-coloured, drain and flush the system, and refill with a fresh coolant mixture. 3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses as described in Section 8. 4 Inspect all other cooling system components (joint faces, etc.) for leaks. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gasket with reference to Chapter 3. 5 Clean the front of the radiator with a soft brush to remove all insects, leaves, etc, embedded in the radiator fins. Be careful not

to damage the radiator fins, or cut your fingers on them.

10 Accelerator cable and

linkage check and lubrication

1 From within the engine compartment check the condition of the accelerator cable ensuring that it isn’t kinked or trapped behind any other components or fittings. Make sure that all clips and cable ties are in place and that the cable properly supported. Where cruise control is fitted, check the cruise control operating cable in the same way. 2 Operate the throttle by means of the accelerator pedal and make sure that the action is smooth without notchiness or evidence of binding. 3 Finally, lubricate the throttle linkage and the accelerator pedal pivot with a few drops of light oil.

11 Spark plug renewal

Note: Spark plug renewal at this service interval is only necessary on certain engines without emission control equipment. On all

other engines the recommended interval for spark plug renewal is every 24 000 miles or 2 years. Consult the spark plug manufacturer or a Rover dealer for their advice concerning renewal intervals.

Spark plug check and renewal

1 It is vital for the correct running, full performance and proper economy of the engine that the spark plugs perform with maximum efficiency. The most important factor in ensuring this, is that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine. The suitable type is given in the Specifications Section at the beginning of this Chapter, or in the vehicle’s Owner’s Handbook. If this type is used and the engine is in good condition, the spark plugs should not need attention between scheduled renewal intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary, and should not be attempted unless specialised equipment is available, as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends. 2 Spark plug removal and refitting requires a spark plug socket, with an extension which can be turned by a ratchet handle or similar. This socket is lined with a rubber sleeve, to protect the porcelain insulator of the spark plug, and to hold the plug while you insert it into the spark plug hole. You will also need a wire-type feeler gauge, to check and adjust the spark plug electrode gap, and a torque

wrench to tighten the new plugs to the specified torque (see illustration). 3 To remove the spark plugs, first open the bonnet; the plugs are easily reached at the top of the engine or on the front and rear facing sides. Note how the spark plug (HT) leads are routed and secured by clips, and on some engines, how they’re positioned along the channel in the cylinder head cover. To prevent the possibility of mixing up spark plug (HT) leads, it is a good idea to work on one spark plug at a time. 4 If the marks on the original-equipment spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark the leads 1 to 4 (or 1 to 6), to correspond to the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of the engine on 4-cylinder engines, and at the timing belt end of the engine on the rear bank under the brake master cylinder on V6 engines). 5 On 4-cylinder engines, undo the bolts securing the spark plug cover to the centre of the cylinder head, noting the accelerator cable support bracket on early engines. Lift off the cover and again, on early engines, release the HT lead grommet from the end of the cover. 6 On all engines, pull the leads from the plugs by gripping the rubber boot, not the lead, otherwise the lead connection may be fractured. 7 Unscrew the spark plugs, ensuring that the socket is kept in alignment with each plug - if the socket is forcibly moved to either side, the porcelain top of the plug may be broken off. If any undue difficulty is encountered when unscrewing any of the spark plugs, carefully

check the cylinder head threads and tapered sealing surfaces for signs of wear, excessive corrosion or damage; if any of these conditions is found, seek the advice of a dealer as to the best method of repair. 8 As each plug is removed, examine it as follows - this will give a good indication of the condition of the engine. If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture. 9 If the tip and insulator nose are covered with hard black-looking deposits, then this is indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich. 10 If the insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is correct, and it is likely that the engine is in good condition. 11 If you are renewing the spark plugs, purchase the new plugs, then check each of them first for faults such as cracked insulators or damaged threads. Note also that, whenever the spark plugs are renewed as a routine service operation, the spark plug (HT) leads should be checked as described below. 12 The spark plug electrode gap is of considerable importance as, if it is too large or too small, the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. The gap should be set to the value given in the Specifications Section of this Chapter. New plugs will not necessarily be set to the correct gap, so they should always be checked before fitting. 13 Special spark plug electrode gap adjusting tools are available from most motor accessory shops. 14 To set the electrode gap, measure the gap with a feeler gauge or adjusting tool, and then bend open, or closed, the outer plug electrode until the correct gap is achieved (see illustrations). The centre electrode should never be bent, as this may crack the insulation and cause plug failure, if nothing worse. If the outer electrode is not exactly over the centre electrode, bend it gently to align them. 15 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that the threaded connector sleeves at the top of the plugs are tight, and that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are

clean. Brown staining on the porcelain, immediately above the metal body, is quite normal, and does not necessarily indicate a leak between the body and insulator. 16 On installing the spark plugs, first check that the cylinder head thread and sealing surface are as clean as possible; use a clean rag wrapped around a paintbrush to wipe clean the sealing surface. Apply a smear of copper-based grease or anti-seize compound to the threads of each plug, and screw them in by hand where possible.

17 When each spark plug is started correctly on its threads, screw it down until it just seats lightly, then tighten it to the specified torque wrench setting. 18 Reconnect the spark plug (HT) leads in their correct order, using a twisting motion on the boot until it is firmly seated. On 4-cylinder engines, refit the spark cover.

Spark plug (HT) lead and distributor cap check

19 The spark plug (HT) leads should be inspected one at a time, to prevent mixing up

1•14 Every 12 000 miles

11.14c . . . then use the end of the special tool to adjust the gap

11.14b . . . or adjusting tool . . .11.14a Measure the spark plug gap with a

feeler gauge . . .

11.2 Tools required for spark plug

removal, gap adjustment and refitting

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Take extra care to enter the plug threads correctly, as the cylinder head is of aluminium alloy - it’s often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without cross-threading them. To avoid this possibility, fit a short piece of hose over the end of the spark plug. The flexible hose acts as a universal joint, to help align the plug with the plug hole. Should the plug begin to crossthread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage.

the firing order, which is essential for proper engine operation. Gain access to the leads and disconnect them as described above for the spark plug check and renewal. 20 Check inside the boot for corrosion, which will look like a white crusty powder. Clean this off as much as possible; if it is excessive, or if cleaning leaves the metal connector too badly corroded to be fit for further use, the lead must be renewed. Push the lead and boot back onto the end of the spark plug. The boot should fit tightly onto the end of the plug - if it doesn’t, remove the lead and use pliers carefully to crimp the metal connector inside the boot until the fit is snug. 21 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of the lead to remove built-up dirt and grease. Once the lead is clean, check for burns, cracks and other damage. Do not bend the lead sharply, because the conductor might break. 22 Inspect the remaining spark plug (HT) leads, ensuring that each is securely fastened at the distributor cap and spark plug when the check is complete. If any sign of arcing, severe connector corrosion, burns, cracks or other damage is noticed, obtain new spark plug (HT) leads, renewing them as a set. If new spark plug leads are to be fitted, remove and refit them one at a time, to avoid mix-ups in the firing order. 23 Refer to Chapter 5 and remove the distributor cap then thoroughly clean it inside and out with a dry lint-free rag. 24 Examine the HT lead segments inside the cap. If they appear badly burned or pitted renew the cap. Also check the carbon brush in the centre of the cap, ensuring that it is free to move and stands proud of its holder. Make sure that there are no sign of cracks or black “tracking” lines running down the inside of the cap, which will also mean renewal if evident. Refit the cap as described in Chapter 5 on completion.

12 Air cleaner element renewal

1 The air cleaner filter element is located in the air cleaner assembly mounted on the left-

hand side of the engine compartment. Undo the retaining screws and/or release the clips, and lift the air cleaner cover, disconnecting the vacuum hose where fitted. Lift the element out of the housing, together with its support frame on V6 engines, and wipe out the housing (see illustrations). Check that no foreign matter is visible, either in the air intake or in the housing. 2 If carrying out a routine service, the element must be renewed regardless of its apparent condition. If you are checking the element for any other reason, inspect its lower surface; if it is oily or very dirty, renew the element. If it is only moderately dusty, it can be re-used by blowing it clean from the upper to the lower surface with compressed air.

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air! Because it is a pleated-paper

type filter, it cannot be washed or re-oiled. If it cannot be cleaned satisfactorily with compressed air, discard and renew it. Caution: Never drive the vehicle with the air cleaner filter element removed. Excessive engine wear could result, and backfiring could even cause a fire under the bonnet.

3 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that the element and cover are securely seated, so that unfiltered air cannot enter the engine.

13 Electrical system check

1 Check the operation of all external lights and indicators (front and rear). 2 Check for satisfactory operation of the instrument panel, its illumination and warning lights, the switches and their function lights.

3 Check the horn(s) for satisfactory operation. 4 Check all other electrical equipment for

satisfactory operation. 5 Check all electrical wiring in the engine compartment for correct routing, and for any signs of physical or heat-damage or chafing.

14 Battery check, maintenance

and charging

Warning: Certain precautions must be followed when checking and servicing the

battery. Hydrogen gas, which is highly flammable, is always present in the battery cells, so keep lighted tobacco and all other open flames and sparks away from the battery. The electrolyte inside the battery is actually dilute sulphuric acid, which will cause injury if splashed on your skin or in your eyes. It will also ruin clothes and painted surfaces. When disconnecting the battery, always detach the negative (earth) lead first and connect it last!

Note: Before disconnecting the battery, refer to Section 1 of Chapter 5.

General

1 A routine preventive maintenance programme for the battery in your vehicle is the only way to ensure quick and reliable starts. Before performing any battery maintenance, make sure that you have the proper equipment necessary to work safely around the battery. 2 There are also several precautions that should be taken whenever battery maintenance is performed. Before servicing the battery, always turn the engine and all accessories off, and disconnect the lead from the negative terminal of the battery - see Chapter 5, Section 1. 3 The battery produces hydrogen gas, which is both flammable and explosive. Never create a spark, smoke, or light a match around the battery. Always charge the battery in a wellventilated area. 4 Electrolyte contains poisonous and corrosive sulphuric acid. Do not allow it to get in your eyes, on your skin, or on your clothes. Never ingest it. Wear protective safety glasses when working near the battery. Keep children away from the battery. 5 Note the external condition of the battery. If the positive terminal and lead clamp on your vehicle’s battery is equipped with a plastic

Every 12 000 miles 1•15

12.1c Lift the element out of the housing,

together with its support frame on V6 engines

12.1b . . . and element on 4-cylinder

engines with single-point fuel injection

12.1a Removing the air cleaner cover . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

cover or rubber protector, make sure that it’s not torn or damaged. It should completely cover the terminal. Look for any corroded or loose connections, cracks in the case or cover, or loose hold-down clamps. Check the entire length of each lead for cracks and frayed conductors. 6 If corrosion, which looks like white, fluffy deposits is evident, particularly around the terminals, the battery should be removed for cleaning as described in Chapter 5, Section 2. 7 Clean the lead clamps thoroughly, using a soft wire brush or a terminal cleaner, with a solution of warm water and baking soda. Wash the terminals and the top of the battery case with the same solution, but make sure that the solution doesn’t get into the battery. When cleaning the leads, terminals and battery top, wear safety goggles and rubber gloves, to prevent any solution from coming in contact with your eyes or hands. Wear old clothes too - even when diluted, acid splashed onto clothes will burn holes in them. Wash all cleaned areas with plain water. 8 Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition and the hold-down clamp nuts are tight. If the battery is removed from the tray, make sure no parts remain in the bottom of the tray when the battery is refitted. When refitting the hold-down clamp nuts, do not overtighten them. 9 Information on jump starting can be found at the front of this manual. For more detailed battery checking procedures, refer to the Haynes “Automobile Electrical and Electronic Systems Manual”.

Cleaning

10 Corrosion on the hold-down components, battery case and surrounding areas can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with plain water. 11 Any metal parts of the vehicle damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zincbased primer, then painted.

Charging

Warning: When batteries are being charged, hydrogen gas, which is very explosive and

flammable, is produced. Do not smoke, or allow open flames, near a charging or a recently-charged battery. Wear eye protection when near the battery during charging. Also, make sure the charger is unplugged before connecting or disconnecting the battery from the charger.

12 Slow-rate charging is the best way to restore a battery that’s discharged to the point where it will not start the engine. It’s also a good way to maintain the battery charge in a vehicle that’s only driven a few miles between starts. Maintaining the battery charge is particularly important in winter, when the battery must work harder to start the engine, and electrical accessories that drain the battery are in greater use.

13 It’s best to use a one- or two-amp battery charger (sometimes called a “trickle” charger). They are the safest, and put the least strain on the battery. They are also the least expensive. For a faster charge, you can use a higheramperage charger, but don’t use one rated more than 1/10th the amp/hour rating of the battery (ie no more than 5 amps, typically). Rapid boost charges that claim to restore the power of the battery in one to two hours are hardest on the battery, and can damage batteries not in good condition. This type of charging should only be used in emergency situations. 14 The average time necessary to charge a battery should be listed in the instructions that come with the charger. As a general rule, a trickle charger will charge a battery in 12 to 16 hours.

15 Seat belt check

1 Check the seat belts for satisfactory operation and condition. Inspect the webbing for fraying and cuts. Check that they retract smoothly and without binding into their reels. 2 Check that the seat belt mounting bolts are tight, and if necessary tighten them to the specified torque wrench setting (see Chapter 11).

16 Auxiliary drivebelts check

and renewal

General

1 The number and type of auxiliary drivebelts depends on the engine, year of manufacture, and whether or not the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning. The belt will be either a V-belt or a flat, multi-ribbed (or “polyvee”) type. All the drivebelts are located on the right-hand end of the engine and are driven from the crankshaft pulley. Early “M” series 4-cylinder engines have an additional drivebelt for the power steering pump, which is driven from a pulley on the camshaft.

2 The good condition and proper tension of the auxiliary drivebelts is critical to the operation of the engine. Because of their composition and the high stresses to which they are subjected, drivebelts stretch and deteriorate as they get older. They must, therefore, be regularly inspected.

Check

3 With the engine switched off, open and support the bonnet, then locate the auxiliary drivebelts fitted to your car (Be very careful, and wear protective gloves to minimise the risk of burning your hands on hot components, if the engine has recently been running). For improved access, jack up the front of the vehicle, support it securely on axle stands, remove the roadwheel, then remove the cover from inside the wheelarch. 4 Using an inspection light or a small electric torch, and rotating the engine when necessary with a spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt, check the whole length of the drivebelt for cracks, separation of the rubber, and torn or worn ribs. Also check for fraying and glazing, which gives the drivebelt a shiny appearance. Both sides of the drivebelt should be inspected, and you will have to twist the drivebelt to check the underside. Use your fingers to feel the drivebelt where you can’t see it. If you are in any doubt as to the condition of the drivebelt, renew it.

Drivebelt tension - 4-cylinder engines

Alternator drivebelt (early “M” series engines)

5 Check that it is just possible to twist the

belt by hand through 90º at a point midway between the two pulleys. If adjustment is necessary, proceed as follows. 6 Slacken the two alternator adjustment bracket bolts and the alternator pivot bolt and nut (see illustrations). 7 Lever the alternator away from the engine until the drivebelt is moderately tight. The alternator must only be levered with care at the drive end bracket. Hold the alternator in this position and tighten the adjustment bracket bolts and pivot nut and bolt.

1•16 Every 12 000 miles

16.6b . . . and pivot bolt retaining nut on early “M” series 4-cylinder engines

16.6a Alternator adjustment bracket bolts (arrowed) . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Power steering pump drivebelt (early “M” series engines)

8 Refer to Chapter 4, Part A or B, and remove

the air cleaner components as necessary, for access. 9 Undo the retaining screw and remove the cover over the camshaft pulley (see illustration). 10 Undo the bolts securing the coolant bypass pipe to the cylinder head and to the main coolant pipe, and move the bypass pipe aside as necessary for access. 11 To check and adjust the belt tension accurately it will be necessary to obtain a socket to fit the power steering pump pulley retaining nut, a socket bar of at least 12 inches in length, and a spring balance capable of recording a minimum of 25 lbs. Make a paint mark or similar on the socket bar, 12 inches up from the centre of the square drive end. 12 Slacken the centre retaining nut on the belt tensioner wheel, then turn the tension adjuster bolt clockwise until the belt is slack. Retighten the tensioner wheel retaining nut to

5.0 Nm. 13 Fit the socket and bar to the pump pulley retaining nut, and position it so that the socket bar is vertical. 14 Attach the spring balance to the socket bar at the point marked 12 inches up from the square drive end. 15 Turn the adjuster bolt anti-clockwise until it takes a pull of 25 lbs to make the pump pulley slip. This procedure is shown (see illustration 16.9), but using the Rover special tool. The socket and bar are a substitute for this tool. 16 Remove the socket, bar and spring balance, then turn the crankshaft until the camshaft pulley has turned through 180º. 17 Check the belt tension again, and readjust if necessary. 18 Now turn the tension adjuster bolt anticlockwise two complete turns. 19 Tighten the tensioner wheel retaining nut fully to the specified torque. 20 Refit the coolant pipe retaining bolts, and the cover over the camshaft pulley.

21 Refit the air cleaner components.

Alternator/power steering pump/air conditioning compressor drivebelt (later “M” series engines)

22 Accurate tensioning of the drivebelt on

cars with this arrangement can only be achieved with the Rover belt tensioning tool, and ideally this operation should be carried out by a Rover dealer. However, if a new belt has been fitted, or if the existing tension is extremely slack, a rough approximation as a temporary measure can be achieved using the following procedure. 23 To adjust the belt tension, slacken the idler pulley retaining nut, then turn the adjuster bolt clockwise to increase the tension or anticlockwise to decrease it, until it is just possible to twist the belt by hand through 90º at a point midway between the crankshaft and power steering pump pulleys (see illustration).

Every 12 000 miles 1•17

16.23 Drivebelt adjustment on later “M” series 4-cylinder engines

1 Drivebelt 2 Checking gauge - Rover

special tool

3 Idler pulley retaining nut 4 Adjuster bolt

16.9 Power steering pump drivebelt adjustment on early “M” series 4-cylinder engines

1 Camshaft pulley cover

retaining screw 2 Camshaft pulley cover 3 Coolant pipe retaining bolt

4 Coolant pipe 5 Drivebelt 6 Belt tensioner wheel centre

retaining nut

7 Tension adjuster bolt 8 Rover special tool for

checking tension

9 Spring balance

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

24 When the tension is correct, tighten the idler pulley retaining nut to the specified torque and lower the car to the ground.

Alternator/power steering pump/air conditioning compressor drivebelt (“T” series engines)

25 “T” series engines are fitted with an

automatic drivebelt tensioner incorporating a wear indicator to show when the belt has stretched too far for the tensioner to maintain correct adjustment (see illustration). 26 To check the tension, observe the wear indicator and make sure that the pointer has not reached the right-hand end of the slot. If it hasn’t, all is well, and no further action is necessary; if it has, renew the belt.

Drivebelt tension - V6 engines

Alternator drivebelt

27 Undo the three bolts and one nut securing

the power steering pump and alternator pulley

covers to the top of the engine. Move the pipes and cables clear and lift off the covers

(see illustration). 28 The belt tension is correct when it is just

possible to deflect the belt by 18 to 22 mm at the mid-point of its run, under moderate finger pressure. If adjustment is required, proceed as follows. 29 Slacken the alternator side pivot bolt and lower mounting nut, then turn the adjusting bolt on the side of the unit as necessary to achieve the correct tension (see

illustrations). 30 Tighten the pivot and mounting nuts and

bolts and refit the covers to the top of the engine.

Power steering pump drivebelt

31 Undo the three bolts and one nut securing

the power steering pump and alternator pulley covers to the top of the engine. Move the pipes and cables clear and lift off the covers.

32 The belt tension is correct when it is just possible to deflect the belt by 18 to 22 mm at the mid-point of its run, under moderate finger pressure. If adjustment is required, proceed as follows. 33 Slacken the pump adjusting nut and mounting bolt, then engage the end of a 1/2 inch square drive socket bar in the hole at the rear of the large lug on top of the pump (see illustrations). Using the bar, move the pump as necessary, until the belt tension is correct, then tighten the adjusting and mounting nut and bolt.

Air conditioning compressor drivebelt

34 The belt tension is correct when it is just

possible to deflect the belt by 7 to 9 mm at a point mid-way between the crankshaft pulley and the tensioner jockey wheel, under

1•18 Every 12 000 miles

16.33b . . . then engage the end of a

socket bar in the lug on top of the pump to

adjust the belt

16.29a . . . slacken the alternator side pivot bolt (arrowed) . . .

16.33a Slacken the V6 engine power steering pump adjusting nut . . .

16.29b . . . and lower mounting nut

(arrowed), then turn the adjusting bolt to

achieve the correct tension

16.27 On V6 engines, remove the pulley covers over the top of the engine . . .

16.25 Drivebelt adjustment details on “T” series engines

1 Wheelarch cover retaining

bolts

2 Wheelarch cover 3 Tensioner wear indicator

4 Releasing the tensioner for

belt renewal

5 Drivebelt

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

moderate finger pressure. If adjustment is required, proceed as follows. 35 Slacken the bolt in the centre of the tensioner jockey wheel, then turn the adjusting bolt, behind the adjuster, to obtain the correct belt tension (see illustration). When the adjustment is correct, tighten the jockey wheel bolt.

Renewal - 4-cylinder engines

36 Open the bonnet, jack up the front of the vehicle (where applicable) and support it securely on an axle stands, remove the roadwheel, then remove the cover from inside the wheelarch. 37 The routing of the drivebelt around the pulleys is dependant on the drivebelt type and whether or not air conditioning is fitted. Before removing the drivebelt, it’s a good idea to sketch the belt run around the pulleys; this will save a lot of frustration when it comes to refitting. 38 If the existing drivebelt is to be refitted, mark it, or note the maker’s markings on its flat surface, so that it can be installed in the same way. 39 To renew the drivebelt, slacken the belt tension fully as described above according to type, noting that where an automatic tensioner is fitted, it is only necessary to turn the tensioner centre bolt clockwise, using a spanner, to release the belt tension. Slip the belt off the pulleys then fit the new belt ensuring that it is routed correctly. With the belt in position, adjust the tension as previously described, or simply release the tensioner bolt. 40 Using a spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft through at least two full turns clockwise to settle the drivebelt on the pulleys, then check that the drivebelt is properly installed. 41 Refit the cover and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground.

Renewal - V6 engines

42 Open the bonnet, jack up the front of the vehicle (where applicable) and support it securely on an axle stands, remove the roadwheel, then remove the cover from inside the wheelarch.

43 If the existing drivebelt is to be refitted, mark it, or note the maker’s markings on its flat surface, so that it can be installed the same way. 44 Depending on which drivebelt is to be renewed, it will probably be necessary to remove one (or both) of the other drivebelts first, to gain access. Note also, that if the power steering pump drivebelt is to be renewed, it will be necessary to support the engine under the sump on a jack (with interposed block of wood) and undo the two bolts on the right-hand engine mounting, to allow the belt to pass through. 45 To renew the drivebelt, slacken the belt tension fully as described above according to type. Slip the belt off the pulleys then fit the new belt. With the belt in position, refit the engine mounting bolts (where applicable) and adjust the tension as previously described. 46 Using a spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft through at least two full turns clockwise to settle the drivebelt on the pulleys, then check that the drivebelt is properly installed. 47 Refit the cover and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground.

17 Engine compartment wiring

check

1 With the vehicle parked on level ground, apply the handbrake firmly and open the bonnet. Using an inspection light or a small electric torch, check all visible wiring within and beneath the engine compartment. 2 What you are looking for is wiring that is obviously damaged by chafing against sharp edges, or against moving suspension/ transmission components and/or the auxiliary drivebelts, by being trapped or crushed between carelessly-refitted components, or melted by being forced into contact with the hot engine castings, coolant pipes, etc. In almost all cases, damage of this sort is caused in the first instance by incorrect routing on reassembly after previous work has been carried out. 3 Depending on the extent of the problem, damaged wiring may sometimes be repaired by rejoining the break or splicing-in a new length of wire, using solder to ensure a good connection, and remaking the insulation with adhesive insulating tape or heat-shrink tubing, as appropriate. If the damage is extensive, given the implications for the vehicle’s future reliability, the best long-term answer may well be to renew that entire section of the loom, however expensive this may appear. 4 When the actual damage has been repaired, ensure that the wiring loom is rerouted correctly, so that it is clear of other components, and not stretched or kinked, and is secured out of harm’s way using the plastic clips, guides and ties provided. 5 Check all electrical connectors, ensuring

that they are clean, securely fastened, and that each is locked by its plastic tabs or wire clip, as appropriate. If any connector shows external signs of corrosion (accumulations of white or green deposits, or streaks of “rust”), or if any is thought to be dirty, it must be unplugged and cleaned using electrical contact cleaner. If the connector pins are severely corroded, the connector must be renewed; note that this may mean the renewal of that entire section of the loom - see your local Rover dealer for details. 6 If the cleaner completely removes the corrosion to leave the connector in a satisfactory condition, it would be wise to pack the connector with a material which will exclude dirt and moisture, preventing the corrosion from occurring again. 7 Check the condition of the battery connections - remake the connections or renew the leads if a fault is found. Use the same techniques to ensure that all earth points in the engine compartment provide good electrical contact through clean, metalto-metal joints, and that all are securely fastened. 8 Refer to Section 11 for details of spark plug (HT) lead checks.

18 Air conditioning system

check

Warning: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. Do not loosen any fittings or remove

any components until after the system has been discharged. Air conditioning refrigerant must be properly discharged into an approved type of container, at a dealer service department or an automotive air conditioning repair facility capable of handling the refrigerant safely. Always wear eye protection when disconnecting air conditioning system fittings.

1 The following maintenance checks should be performed on a regular basis, to ensure that the air conditioner continues to operate at peak efficiency:

(a) Check the auxiliary drivebelt. If it’s worn

or deteriorated, renew it (see Section 16).

(b) Check the system hoses. Look for cracks,

bubbles, hard spots and deterioration. Inspect the hoses and all fittings for oil bubbles and seepage. If there’s any evidence of wear, damage or leaks, renew the hose(s).

insects and other debris. Use a “fin comb” or compressed air to clean the condenser.

Warning: Wear eye protection

when using compressed air!

(d) Check that the drain tube from the front

of the evaporator is clear - note that it is normal to have clear fluid (water) dripping

Every 12 000 miles 1•19

16.35 Air conditioning compressor

drivebelt tensioner jockey wheel bolt (A),

and adjusting bolt (B) on V6 engines

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

from this while the system is in operation, to the extent that quite a large puddle can be left under the vehicle when it is parked.

2 It’s a good idea to operate the system for about 30 minutes at least once a month, particularly during the winter. Long term nonuse can cause hardening, and subsequent failure, of the seals. 3 Because of the complexity of the air conditioning system and the special equipment necessary to service it, in-depth fault diagnosis and repairs are not included in this manual. For more complete information on the air conditioning system, refer to the Haynes “Automotive Heating and Air Conditioning Manual”. 4 The most common cause of poor cooling is simply a low system refrigerant charge. If a noticeable drop in cool air output occurs, the following quick check will help you determine if the refrigerant level is low. 5 Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature. 6 Place the air conditioning temperature selector at the coldest setting, and put the blower at the highest setting. Open the doors

- to make sure the air conditioning system doesn’t cycle off as soon as it cools the passenger compartment. 7 With the compressor engaged - the clutch will make an audible click, and the centre of the clutch will rotate - feel the inlet and outlet pipes at the compressor. One side should be cold, and one hot. If there’s no perceptible difference between the two pipes, there’s something wrong with the compressor or the system. It might be a low charge - it might be something else. Take the vehicle to a dealer service department or an automotive air conditioning specialist.

19 Engine base idle speed and

CO content check

Refer to the appropriate Parts of Chapter 4.

20 Manual transmission oil level

check

1 The manual transmission does not have a dipstick. To check the oil level, raise the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands, making sure that the vehicle is level. On the left-hand side of the transmission casing, to the rear of the constant velocity joint, you will see the filler/level plug. Wipe around the plug with a rag, then unscrew and remove it. If the level is correct, the oil should be up to the lower edge of the hole. 2 If the transmission needs more lubricant (if the oil level is not up to the hole), use a syringe, or a plastic bottle and tube, to add more (see illustration). Stop filling the transmission when the lubricant begins to run

out of the hole. Make sure that you refer to “Lubricants, fluids and capacities” at the beginning of this Chapter for the correct grade of lubricant to use, according to transmission type. 3 Refit the filler/level plug, and tighten it to the specified torque wrench setting. Drive the vehicle a short distance, then check for leaks. 4 A need for regular topping-up can only be due to a leak, which should be found and rectified without delay.

21 Steering, suspension and

roadwheel check

Front suspension and steering check

1 Apply the handbrake, then raise the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. 2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steering gear gaiters for splits, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of these components will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 Check the power-assisted steering fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steering gear. 4 Check for signs of fluid leakage around the shock absorber body, or from the rubber boot around the piston rod (where fitted). Should any fluid be noticed, the shock absorber is defective internally, and renewal is necessary. 5 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it. Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation is necessary to determine the source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free play is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the suspension joints or mountings.

6 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track rod balljoints. If the outer track rod end balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be obvious. If the inner joint is suspect, it can be felt by placing a hand over the rackand-pinion rubber gaiter, and gripping the track rod. If the wheel is now rocked, movement will be felt at the inner joint if wear has taken place. 7 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber. 8 With the vehicle standing on its wheels, have an assistant turn the steering wheel back-and-forth, about an eighth of a turn each way. There should be very little, if any, lost movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously described, but in addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and also check the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself. 9 The efficiency of the shock absorber may be checked by bouncing the car at each front corner. Generally speaking, the body will return to its normal position and stop after being depressed. If it rises and returns on a rebound, the shock absorber is probably suspect. Examine also the shock absorber upper and lower mountings for any signs of wear.

Rear suspension check

10 Chock the front wheels, then raise the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. 11 Check the rear hub bearings for wear, using the method described for the front hub bearings (paragraph 4). 12 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Check the condition of the shock absorbers as described previously.

Roadwheel check and balancing

13 Periodically remove the roadwheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by “kerbing” whilst parking, and similarly, steel wheels may become dented or buckled. Renewal of the wheel is very often the only course of remedial action possible. 14 The balance of each wheel and tyre

1•20 Every 12 000 miles

20.2 Topping up the manual transmission oil

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

assembly should be maintained, not only to avoid excessive tyre wear, but also to avoid wear in the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration through the vehicle’s bodyshell, although in many cases it is particularly noticeable through the steering wheel. Conversely, it should be noted that wear or damage in suspension or steering components may cause excessive tyre wear. Out-of-round or out-of-true tyres, damaged wheels and wheel bearing wear/ maladjustment also fall into this category. Balancing will not usually cure vibration caused by such wear. 15 Wheel balancing may be carried out with the wheel either on or off the vehicle. If balanced on the vehicle, ensure that the wheel-to-hub relationship is marked in some way prior to subsequent wheel removal, so that it may be refitted in its original position.

22 Driveshaft rubber gaiter and

CV joint check

1 The driveshaft rubber gaiters are very important, because they prevent dirt, water and foreign material from entering and damaging the constant velocity (CV) joints. External contamination can cause the gaiter material to deteriorate prematurely, so it’s a good idea to wash the gaiters with soap and water occasionally. 2 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on axle stands, turn the steering onto full-lock, then slowly rotate each front wheel in turn. Inspect the condition of the outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs of cracking, splits, or deterioration of the rubber, which may allow the escape of grease, and lead to the ingress of water and grit into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the inner CV joints. If any damage or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be renewed as described in Chapter 8. 3 At the same time, check the general condition of the outer CV joints themselves,

by first holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheels. Repeat this check on the inner joints, by holding the inner joint yoke and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. 4 Any appreciable movement in the CV joint indicates wear in the joint, wear in the driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut.

23 Exhaust system check

1 With the engine cold (at least three hours after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system, from its starting point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe. Ideally, this should be done on a hoist, where unrestricted access is available; if a hoist is not available, raise and support the vehicle on axle stands. 2 Check the pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion, or damage. Make sure that all brackets and rubber mountings are in good condition, and tight; if any of the mountings are to be renewed, ensure that the replacements are of the correct type (see illustration). Leakage at any of the joints or in other parts of the system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak. Note: Exhaust sealants

should not be used on any part of the exhaust system upstream of the catalytic converter even if the sealant does not contain additives harmful to the converter, pieces of it may break off and foul the element, causing local overheating.

3 At the same time, inspect the underside of the body for holes, corrosion, open seams, etc. which may allow exhaust gases to enter the passenger compartment. Seal all body openings with silicone or body putty. 4 Rattles and other noises can often be traced to the exhaust system, especially the rubber mountings. Try to move the system, silencer(s) and catalytic converter. If any components can touch the body or suspension parts, secure the exhaust system with new mountings.

24 Underbody and fuel/brake

line check

1 With the vehicle raised and supported on axle stands or over an inspection pit, thoroughly inspect the underbody and wheelarches for signs of damage and corrosion. In particular, examine the bottom of the side sills, and any concealed areas where mud can collect. Where corrosion and rust is evident, press and tap firmly on the panel with a screwdriver, and check for any serious corrosion which would necessitate repairs. If the panel is not seriously corroded, clean away the rust, and apply a new coating of

underseal. Refer to Chapter 11 for more details of body repairs. 2 At the same time, inspect the PVC-coated lower body panels for stone damage and general condition. 3 Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on the underbody for damage, rust, corrosion and leakage. Also make sure that they are correctly supported in their clips. Where applicable, check the PVC coating on the lines for damage.

25 Clutch operation and

hydraulic hose condition check

1 Check the clutch pedal moves smoothly and easily through its travel, and that the clutch functions correctly, with no trace of slip or drag. 2 Remove the closing panels under the facia for access to the pedal and apply a few drops of light oil to the pedal pivot. Refit the panel. 3 From within the engine compartment check the condition of the fluid lines and hoses as described in Section 8. Now have a look under the front of the car at the clutch slave cylinder. Check for signs of fluid leaks around the rubber boot and check the security of the linkage. Apply a few drops of oil to the pushrod clevis pin and linkage.

26 Brake check

Note: For detailed photographs of the brake system, refer to Chapter 9.

1 The work described in this Section should be carried out at the specified intervals, or whenever a defect is suspected in the braking system. Any of the following symptoms could indicate a potential brake system defect:

(a) The vehicle pulls to one side when the

brake pedal is depressed.

(b) The brakes make scraping or dragging

noises when applied. (c) Brake pedal travel is excessive. (d) The brake fluid requires repeated topping-

up.

2 A thorough inspection should be made to confirm the thickness of the pad linings, as follows. 3 Jack up the front or rear of the vehicle in turn, and support it on axle stands. 4 For better access to the brake calipers, remove the wheels. 5 Look through the inspection window in the caliper, and check that the thickness of the friction lining material on each of the pads is not less than the recommended minimum thickness given in the Specifications. Note:

Bear in mind that the lining material is normally bonded to a metal backing plate.

6 If it is difficult to determine the exact thickness of the pad linings, or if you are at all

Every 12 000 miles 1•21

23.2 Typical exhaust system rubber mountings and brackets

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

concerned about the condition of the pads, then remove them from the calipers for further inspection (refer to Chapter 9). 7 Check the remaining brake caliper(s) in the same way. 8 If any one of the brake pads has worn down to, or below, the specified limit, all four pads at that end of the car must be renewed as a set (ie all the front pads or all the rear pads). 9 Measure the thickness of the discs with a micrometer, if available, to make sure that they still have service life remaining. If any disc is thinner than the specified minimum thickness, renew it (refer to Chapter 9). In any case, check the general condition of the discs. Look for excessive scoring and discolouration caused by overheating. If these conditions exist, remove the relevant disc and have it resurfaced or renewed (refer to Chapter 9). 10 Before refitting the wheels, check all brake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). In particular, check the flexible hoses in the vicinity of the calipers, where they are subjected to most movement. Bend them between the fingers (but do not actually bend them double, or the casing may be damaged) and check that this does not reveal previously-hidden cracks, cuts or splits. On completion, apply the handbrake and check that the rear wheels are locked. The handbrake does not normally require periodic adjustment but if its travel seems excessive, refer to Chapter 9.

27 Door, boot, tailgate and

bonnet check and lubrication

1 Check that the doors, bonnet and tailgate/boot lid close securely. Check that the bonnet safety catch operates correctly. Check the operation of the door check straps. 2 Lubricate the hinges, door check straps, the striker plates and the bonnet catch sparingly with a little oil or grease.

28 Bodywork, paint and

exterior trim check

1 The best time to carry out this check is after the car has been washed so that any surface blemish or scratch will be clearly evident and not hidden by a film of dirt. 2 Starting at one front corner check the paintwork all around the car, looking for minor scratches or more serious dents. Check all the trim and make sure that it is securely attached over its entire length. 3 Check the security of all door locks, door mirrors, badges, bumpers radiator grille and wheel trim. Anything found loose, or in need of further attention should be done with reference to the relevant Chapters of this manual.

4 Rectify any problems noticed with the paintwork or body panels as described in Chapter 11.

29 Roadwheel nut tightness

check

1 Apply the handbrake and remove the wheel trim. 2 Slacken each wheel nut in turn then, using a torque wrench, tighten it to the specified torque wrench setting. If any of the wheel nuts appear corroded, or are tight to unscrew, jack up and securely support the car at the front or rear as applicable, and remove the relevant wheel. Clean the threads of the wheel studs and apply a high-melting point copper based grease to each stud. It’s a good idea to do this to all the studs at each wheel; if one was corroded, they’re probably all the same. 3 If the nuts were removed, check the torque setting again after lowering the car, then refit the wheel trim.

30 Road test

Check the operation and performance of the braking system

1 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard. 2 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking. 3 Check that the handbrake operates correctly, without excessive movement of the lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary on a slope. 4 With the engine switched off, test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. Depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum, then start the engine. As the engine starts, there should be a noticeable “give” in the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is now depressed again, it should be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no further hissing should be heard, and the pedal should feel considerably harder.

Steering and suspension

5 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road “feel”. 6 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises. 7 Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive sloppiness or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering and driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

8 Check the performance of the engine, transmission and driveshafts. 9 Check that the engine starts correctly, both when cold and when hot. 10 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine and transmission. 11 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when idling, and that there is no hesitation when accelerating. 12 On manual transmission models, check that all gears can be engaged smoothly without noise, and that the gear lever action is not abnormally vague or “notchy”. 13 On automatic transmission models, make sure that the drive seems smooth without jerks or engine speed “flare-ups”. Check that all the gear positions can be selected with the vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they should be referred to a Rover dealer. 14 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from the front of the vehicle as the vehicle is driven slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock. Carry out this check in both directions. If a clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a driveshaft joint, in which case renew the joint.

Clutch

15 Check that the clutch pedal moves smoothly and easily through its full travel, and that the clutch itself functions correctly, with no trace of slip or drag. If the movement is uneven or stiff in places, check the system components with reference to Chapter 6.

Instruments and electrical equipment

16 Check the operation of all instruments and electrical equipment. 17 Make sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment in turn, to check that it functions properly.

31 Automatic transmission fluid

level check

1 The level of the automatic transmission fluid should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and transmission damage. 2 The transmission fluid level should only be checked when the transmission is hot (at its normal operating temperature). If the vehicle has just been driven over 10 miles (15 miles in a cold climate), and the fluid temperature is 160 to 175ºF, the transmission is hot.

4-cylinder engine models

3 Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the handbrake, and start the engine. While the engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and move the selector lever to the “P” (PARK) position. 4 Remove the dipstick from its tube located

1•22 Every 12 000 miles

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

at the front left-hand side of the engine. Note the condition and colour of the fluid on the dipstick. 5 Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a clean rag, and re-insert it into the filler tube until the cap seats. 6 Pull the dipstick out again, and note the fluid level. The level should be between the “MIN” and “MAX” marks, on the side of the dipstick marked “HOT” (see illustration). If the level is on the “MIN” mark, stop the engine, and add the specified automatic transmission fluid through the dipstick tube, using a clean funnel if necessary. It is important not to introduce dirt into the transmission when topping-up. 7 Add the fluid a little at a time, and keep checking the level as previously described until it is correct. The difference between the “MIN” and “MAX” marks on the dipstick is approximately 0.3 litre.

V6 engine models

8 Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the handbrake, and start the engine. While the engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and move the selector lever to the “P” (PARK) position.

9 Switch off the engine and wait one minute. 10 Remove the dipstick from its tube which

is located at the rear left-hand side of the engine. The dipstick is mounted low down, on top of the transmission casing and access is not very good (see illustration). Note the condition and colour of the fluid on the dipstick. 11 Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a clean rag, and re-insert it into the filler tube until the cap seats. 12 Pull the dipstick out again, and note the fluid level. The level should be within the shaded sector on the blade. If the level is below or very near to the bottom of the shaded sector, add the specified automatic

transmission fluid through the dipstick tube, using a clean funnel (see illustration). It is important not to introduce dirt into the transmission when topping-up. 13 Add the fluid a little at a time, and keep checking the level as previously described until it is correct. The difference between the upper and lower part of the shaded sector is approximately 0.9 litre.

All models

14 The need for regular topping-up of the transmission fluid indicates a leak, which should be found and rectified without delay. 15 The condition of the fluid should also be checked along with the level. If the fluid at the end of the dipstick is black or a dark reddishbrown colour, or if it has a burned smell, the fluid should be changed. If you are in doubt about the condition of the fluid, purchase some new fluid, and compare the two for colour and smell.

Every 24 000 miles 1•23

31.12 Add the specified automatic

transmission fluid through the dipstick

tube, using a clean funnel

31.10 Automatic transmission fluid level

dipstick (1), Lower (2) and upper (3) shaded

sector and dipstick tube (4)

31.6 Automatic transmission fluid level dipstick (1) and level markings on

4-cylinder engine models

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years, whichever occurs first

32 Timing belt condition and

tension check

1 The manufacturers have increased the service interval for checking the timing belt condition and tension on certain engines, due to the introduction of automatic tensioners and improvements in timing belt construction and manufacture. However, the consequences of timing belt failure can be very expensive in terms of possible engine damage and it is still worthwhile to check the belt at the shorter intervals given in this schedule. The procedures vary considerably according to engine type and model year, and reference should be made to the appropriate Part of Chapter 2 for full information.

33 Positive Crankcase

Ventilation (PCV) system check

1 The function of the crankcase ventilation system is to reduce the emission of unburned hydrocarbons from the crankcase, and to minimise the formation of oil sludge. By ensuring that a depression is created in the crankcase under most operating conditions, particularly at idle, and by positively inducing fresh air into the system, the oil vapours and “blow-by” gases collected in the crankcase are drawn from the crankcase, through the air cleaner or oil separator, into the inlet tract, to be burned by the engine during normal combustion. 2 On four cylinder engines, the main

components of the system are an oil separator, diverter valve and associated hoses. Checking of the system consists of a simple visual check of the component hoses and their connections. 3 On V6 engines the crankcase ventilation system main components are a PCV valve, located in the breathing chamber of the front camshaft cover, and the hoses that connect to the internal channels in the inlet manifold. As with 4-cylinder engines, checking is limited to merely a visual hose condition check. Accurate checking of the PCV valve should be entrusted to a dealer. 4 Check that all components of the system are securely fastened, correctly routed (with no kinks or sharp bends to restrict flow) and in sound condition; renew any worn or damaged components.

5 If oil leakage is noted, disconnect the various hoses and pipes, and check that all are clear and unblocked. Remove the air cleaner assembly cover, and check that the hose is clear and undamaged. Always ensure that the air cleaner filter element is clean as this is a vital part of the system. If it is not due for renewal but appears dirty, it may be possible to clean it as described in Section 12.

34 Fuel filter renewal

Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so extra precautions must be taken when working on

any part of the fuel system. Do not smoke, or allow open flames or bare light bulbs, near the work area. Also, do not work in a garage if a natural gas-type appliance with a pilot light is present. While performing any work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses, and have a suitable (Class B) fire extinguisher on hand. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water.

1 On all engines, a fuel filter is provided in the fuel pump outlet line and is located on the lefthand side of the engine compartment bulkhead. The filter performs a vital role in keeping dirt and other foreign matter out of the fuel system, and so must be renewed at regular intervals, or whenever you have reason to suspect that it may be clogged. 2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 3 Place absorbent rags around the fuel filter outlet union banjo bolt, then slowly unscrew the bolt itself or, on later models, the small bleed screw in the centre of the bolt, to relieve the system pressure (see illustrations). If a bleed screw was fitted, tighten it once the pressure has been released. 4 On 4-cylinder engines, unscrew the filter inlet and outlet union banjo bolts, and recover the four copper washers. On V6 engines, unscrew the inlet union nut and withdraw the pipe from the filter head (see illustration).

Now unscrew the outlet union banjo bolt and recover the two copper washers. 5 Undo the filter bracket retaining nuts or bolts, and remove the filter (see illustration). 6 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal, but use new copper washers on the banjo unions.

35 Automatic transmission fluid

renewal

1 The automatic transmission fluid should be changed when the transmission is warm after the vehicle has been driven for two or three miles. 2 Position the vehicle over an inspection pit, on vehicle ramps, or jack it up, but make sure that it is level. 3 Place a large container beneath the transmission and thoroughly clean the area around the drain plug(s). On 4-cylinder engine models, undo the two socket-headed drain plugs - one on the side of the sump pan, and one on the transmission casing (see illustration). On V6 engine models undo the single drain plug on the end of the transmission casing at the front. Allow the fluid to drain into the container.

Warning: Take care to avoid scalding - the transmission fluid will be very hot. Remove the dipstick to speed up the draining operation.

4 When all the fluid has drained (this may take quite some time) clean the drain plug(s) then refit, together with new seals and tighten securely. 5 Lower the vehicle to the ground and apply the handbrake securely. 6 Place a funnel in the dipstick tube and fill the transmission with the specified type of fluid. Only add about half the specified amount before checking the level on the dipstick. 7 On 4-cylinder engine models, slowly add more fluid until the level just shows on the dipstick. Now start the engine with the selector lever in “P” and check the fluid level on the dipstick immediately (don’t wait for the engine to warm up). Add fluid as necessary until the level is up to the “MAX” mark on the “COLD” side of the blade then refit the dipstick. Recheck the level as described in Section 31, with the engine fully warmed-up, at the earliest opportunity. 8 On V6 engine models, slowly add more fluid until the level is within the shaded sector on the dipstick blade. Refit the dipstick, drive the car until it is fully warmed-up, then recheck the level as described in Section 31.

1•24 Every 24 000 miles

35.3 Automatic transmission fluid drain

plug locations on 4-cylinder engine models

1 Sump pan drain plug 2 Transmission casing drain plug 3 Sealing washers

34.5 Undo the filter bracket retaining nuts or bolts, and remove the filter

34.4 On V6 engines, unscrew the inlet

union nut and withdraw the pipe from the

filter head

34.3b Unscrewing the banjo union bolt on

V6 engines

34.3a Fuel filter outlet union banjo bolt (arrowed) on 4-cylinder engines

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

36 Brake fluid renewal

The procedure is similar to that for the bleeding of the hydraulic system as described in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid reservoir should be emptied by syphoning, and allowance should be made for the old fluid to be removed from the circuit when bleeding a section of the circuit.

37 Manual transmission oil

renewal

1 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands making sure that it is level. 2 Place a container beneath the drain plug, which is located below the driveshaft inner constant velocity joint on the same side as the filler plug (see illustration). Undo the plug using a square key, and allow the oil to drain. If a key is not available, the 3/8 inch square drive end of a socket bar will suffice. 3 Refit the plug after draining, using a new sealing washer if necessary, then refill with fresh oil as described in Section 20.

38 Coolant renewal

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin or painted surfaces of the

vehicle. Flush contaminated areas immediately with plenty of water. Don’t store new coolant, or leave old coolant lying around, where it’s accessible to children or pets - they’re attracted by its sweet smell. Ingestion of even a small amount of coolant can be fatal! Wipe up garage-floor and drip-pan spills immediately. Keep antifreeze containers covered, and repair cooling system leaks as soon as they’re noticed.

Warning: Never remove the

expansion tank filler cap when

the engine is running, or has

just been switched off, as the cooling system will be hot, and the consequent escaping steam and scalding coolant could cause serious injury.

Coolant draining

Warning: Wait until the engine is

cold before starting this

procedure.

1 To drain the system, first remove the expansion tank filler cap (see Section 3). Move the heater temperature control lever to the fully hot position. 2 If additional working clearance is required,

raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands. 3 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the undertray from beneath the radiator. 4 Place a container beneath the left-hand side of the radiator. Slacken the hose clip and carefully ease the bottom hose off the radiator outlet. Allow the coolant to drain into the container. 5 Additionally, on V6 engines, slacken the two cylinder block drain plugs, on the front and rear sides of the engine, and drain the cylinder block (see illustration). Use two containers for this operation, or open the drain plugs one at a time.

System flushing

6 With time, the cooling system may gradually lose its efficiency, as the radiator core becomes choked with rust, scale deposits from the water, and other sediment. To minimise this, as well as using only goodquality antifreeze and clean soft water, the system should be flushed as follows whenever any part of it is disturbed, and/or when the coolant is renewed. 7 With the coolant drained, refit the bottom hose and where applicable tighten the drain plugs, then refill the system with fresh water. Refit the expansion tank filler cap, start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature, then stop it and (after allowing it to cool down completely) drain the system again. Repeat as necessary until only clean water can be seen to emerge, then refill finally with the specified coolant mixture. 8 If only clean, soft water and good-quality antifreeze has been used, and the coolant has been renewed at the specified intervals, the above procedure will be sufficient to keep clean the system for a considerable length of time. If, however, the system has been neglected, a more thorough operation will be required, as follows. 9 First drain the coolant, then disconnect the radiator top and bottom hoses. Insert a garden hose into the top hose, and allow water to circulate through the radiator until it runs clean from the bottom outlet. 10 To flush the engine, insert the garden hose into the thermostat water outlet, and allow water to circulate until it runs clear from

the bottom hose. If, after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator should be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent. 11 In severe cases of contamination, reverse-flushing of the radiator may be necessary. To do this, remove the radiator (Chapter 3), invert it, and insert the garden hose into the bottom outlet. Continue flushing until clear water runs from the top hose outlet. A similar procedure can be used to flush the heater matrix. 12 The use of chemical cleaners should be necessary only as a last resort. Normally, regular renewal of the coolant will prevent excessive contamination of the system.

Coolant filling

13 With the cooling system drained and flushed, ensure that all disturbed hose unions are correctly secured, and that the radiator drain plug is securely tightened. Refit the radiator undershield if it was removed for access, and lower the vehicle to the ground. 14 Prepare a sufficient quantity of the specified coolant mixture allow for a surplus, so as to have a reserve supply for topping-up. 15 Slacken the cooling system bleed screw which, on early 4-cylinder engines, is located on the hose connecting the main coolant pipe to the water pump at the rear of the engine and, on V6 engines, just below the throttle body (see illustrations). Later (1992 onward) 4-cylinder engines don’t have a bleed screw. 16 Slowly fill the system through the

Every 24 000 miles 1•25

38.15a Cooling system bleed screw

location (arrowed) on early 4-cylinder

engines . . .

38.5 V6 engine cylinder block drain plug (arrowed)

37.2 Manual transmission oil drain plug location (arrowed)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

expansion tank until coolant, free from air bubbles, flows from the bleed screw. Tighten the bleed screw and continue filling until the coolant level reaches the expansion tank “MAX” level line. 17 Start the engine, run it for approximately two minutes, then switch off. 18 Slowly unscrew the pressure cap one complete turn, wait until all the pressure escapes, then remove the cap. Check that the coolant just covers the pipe outlet on the seam of the tank, top up if necessary, then refit the cap.

19 After refilling, always check carefully all components of the system (but especially any unions disturbed during draining and flushing) for signs of coolant leaks. Fresh antifreeze has a searching action, which will rapidly expose any weak points in the system.

20 Note: If, after draining and refilling the system, symptoms of overheating are found which did not occur previously, then the fault is almost certainly due to trapped air at some point in the system, causing an air-lock and restricting the flow of coolant; usually, the air is trapped because the system was refilled too quickly. In some cases, air-locks can be released by tapping or squeezing the various hoses. If the problem persists, stop the engine and allow it to cool down completely, before unscrewing the expansion tank filler cap or disconnecting hoses to bleed out the trapped air.

Antifreeze mixture

21 The cooling system should be filled with a water/ethylene glycol-based antifreeze solution, of a strength which will prevent freezing down to at least -25ºC, or lower if the local climate requires it. Antifreeze also protects against corrosion, and increases the coolant boiling point. 22 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling

system should be completely drained, preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security. As noted earlier, fresh antifreeze will rapidly find any weaknesses in the system. 23 After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and the date installed. Any subsequent topping-up should be made with the same type and concentration of antifreeze. 24 The exact mixture of antifreeze-to-water which you should use depends on the relative weather conditions. On all V6 engines, and 4-cylinder engines equipped with air conditioning, the mixture should contain approximately 50% antifreeze. On 4-cylinder engines without air conditioning, approximately a 33% antifreeze mixture is recommended. Antifreeze concentrations greater than 55% for V6 engines or 60% for 4-cylinder engines are not recommended as the efficiency of the cooling system may be impaired. Consult the mixture ratio chart on the antifreeze container before adding coolant. Hydrometers are available at most automotive accessory shops to test the coolant. Use antifreeze which meets the vehicle manufacturer’s specifications.

1•26 Every 24 000 miles

38.15b . . . and on V6 engines (arrowed)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 48 000 miles

39 Timing belt renewal

1 As mentioned in Section 32, the

manufacturers have increased the service interval for checking the timing belt condition and tension on certain engines, and also the renewal interval. On certain engines the renewal interval is every 48 000 miles but, according to the manufacturer’s, the timing

belt on 1990 model year onward V6 engines should last for 96 000 miles. Prudent owners may wish to reduce this interval considerably. 2 Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, or Part B as applicable for renewal procedures

40 Braking system hydraulic

fluid seal check and renewal

Refer to the relevant overhaul procedures in Chapter 9, for the brake calipers and master cylinder.

41 Emissions control

equipment check

1 Details of the emissions control system components are given in Chapter 4 Part E, and checking procedures for the positive

crankcase ventilation system is given in Section 33 of this Chapter. 2 Checking and testing of the other emissions control systems should be entrusted to a Rover dealer.

Every 60 000 miles or 5 years, whichever occurs first

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

General

Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line, double-overhead camshafts

Engine codes:

“M” series engines:

Normally aspirated engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . M16 (20 HD)

Turbocharged engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . M16 (20 M4G)

“T” series engines:

Normally aspirated engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . T16 (20 T4)

Turbocharged engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . T16 (20 T4) Turbo

Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1994 cc

Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.45 mm

Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89.0 mm

Compression ratio:

Normally aspirated engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0:1

Turbocharged engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5:1

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Timing belt tensioner spring free length (“T” series engines) . . . . . . . . . 57.5 to 58.5 mm

Cylinder head

Maximum gasket face distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 mm

Camshafts and hydraulic tappets

Camshaft bearing running clearance:

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.060 to 0.094 mm

Used . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm maximum

Camshaft endfloat (“T” series engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.06 to 0.25 mm

Lubrication

Engine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Oil pressure:

Idling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 bar

Running . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.8 bar

Auxiliary drivebelts check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Camshaft covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Camshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Cylinder head, rocker gear and valve assemblies -

cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2C

Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2C

Engine/transmission - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2C

Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . 18

Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 17

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . 2

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Timing belt (“M” series) - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . 7

Timing belt (“T” series) - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . 8

Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 3

2A•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Chapter 2 Part A: 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Camshaft cover bolts:

“M” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

“T” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Camshaft sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 48

Camshaft housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Timing belt tensioner bolt:

“M” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

“T” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Timing belt idler pulley bolt (“M” series engines):

Up to 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

1989 onwards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 36

Cylinder head bolts (“M” series engines):

Up to 1989:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 60º, or to 108 Nm (80 lbf ft) whichever comes first

1989 onwards:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

Cylinder head bolts (“T” series engines):

With MSPS stamped on bolt head:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

With KX stamped on bolt head:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 52

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º

Inlet manifold nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Exhaust manifold nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Crankshaft pulley centre bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63

Crankshaft pulley-to-sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Oil pump housing bolts (“M” series engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4

Oil pump housing bolts (“T” series engines):

M6 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

M10 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Oil pump cover plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4

Oil pick-up pipe-to-pump screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Sump bolts:

“M” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

“T” series engines:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 3

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Flywheel bolts:

“M” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63

“T” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81

Torque converter driveplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81

Transmission adaptor plate bolts:

“M” series engines:

Bolts below crankshaft centre-line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Bolts above crankshaft centre-line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

“T” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Rear oil seal carrier bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Main bearing cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81

Crankpin (big-end) bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41

Front engine mounting to transmission bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59

Front engine mounting bracket to transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Rear engine mounting bracket to transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Right-hand engine mounting through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Right-hand engine mounting to engine bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44

Right-hand engine mounting bracket to engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Engine rear tie-bar to mounting bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 55

Engine rear tie-bar mounting bracket bolts:

M10 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

M12 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63

Engine rear tie-bar through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63

Longitudinal support member to underbody . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Engine snubber bracket to transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

2A•2 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 General information

How to use this Chapter

1 This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repair procedures possible while the engine is still installed in the car, and includes only the Specifications relevant to those procedures. Similar information concerning the V6 engines will be found in Part B of this Chapter. Since these procedures are based on the assumption that the engine is installed in the car, if the engine has been removed and mounted on a stand, some of the preliminary dismantling steps outlined will not apply. 2 Information concerning engine/transmission removal and refitting, and engine overhaul, can be found in Part C of this Chapter, which also includes the Specifications relevant to those procedures.

Engine description

“M” series engine

3 The M16 engine fitted to Rover 820 models

is a water-cooled, four-cylinder, doubleoverhead camshaft, four-stroke petrol engine, of 1994 cc capacity. The engine was fitted to Rover 820 models from 1986 until approximately October 1991. 4 The combined crankcase and cylinder block is of cast iron construction, and houses the pistons, connecting rods and crankshaft. The solid skirt cast aluminium alloy pistons have two compression rings and an oil control ring, and are retained on the connecting rods by fully floating gudgeon pins. To reduce frictional drag and piston slap, the gudgeon pin is offset to the thrust side of the piston. The forged steel connecting rods are attached to the crankshaft by renewable shell type bigend bearings. The crankshaft is carried in five main bearings, also of the renewable shell type. Crankshaft endfloat is controlled by thrust washers which are located on either side of the centre main bearing. 5 The twin overhead camshafts are located in the cylinder head, and each is retained in position by a housing bolted to the cylinder head upper face. The camshafts are supported by five bearing journals machined directly into the head and housings. Drive to the camshafts is by an internally-toothed rubber timing belt, from a sprocket on the front end of the crankshaft. An idler pulley and adjustable tensioner pulley are fitted to eliminate backlash and prevent slackness of the belt. The distributor rotor arm is attached to the rear of the exhaust camshaft, and on early models, the power steering pump is belt-driven from a sprocket attached to the rear of the inlet camshaft. On later models, the power steering is located at the front of the engine, and is belt-driven from a sprocket on the crankshaft.

6 The M16 engine utilizes four valves per cylinder, mounted at an inclined angle, and running in guides which are pressed into the cylinder head. The valves are of small diameter, to improve breathing efficiency and reduce valve mass. Each valve is opened by a hydraulic tappet, acted upon directly by the lobe of the camshaft, and closed by a single valve spring. 7 Blow-by gases from the crankcase are vented by a positive crankcase ventilation system back into the intake air stream for combustion. The system incorporates an oil separator, to return oil droplets to the sump, and a diverter valve, which channels the vapour to inlets on either side of the throttle valve, depending on manifold depression. 8 The pressed-steel sump is attached to the underside of the crankcase, and acts as a reservoir for the engine oil. The oil pump draws oil through a strainer attached to the pick-up pipe and submerged in the oil. The pump passes the oil along a short passage and into the full-flow filter, which is screwed onto the pump housing. The freshly filtered oil flows from the filter and enters the main cylinder block oil gallery, which feeds the crankshaft main bearings. Oil passes from the main bearings, through drillings in the crankshaft to the big-end bearings. 9 As the crankshaft rotates, oil is squirted from a hole in each connecting rod, to splash the thrust side of the pistons and cylinder bores. 10 A drilling from the main oil gallery feeds the cylinder head gallery, via a restrictor located just below the top face of the cylinder block. The cylinder head contains an oil gallery on each side, with drillings to lubricate each camshaft journal and hydraulic tappet bore. The oil then drains back into the sump via large drillings in the cylinder head and cylinder block. 11 On turbocharged engines, a take-off pipe from the main oil gallery feeds the turbocharger shaft bearings and then returns to the sump via an oil return pipe. 12 A pressure relief valve is incorporated in the oil pump housing, to maintain the oil pressure within specified limits.

“T” series engine

13 The T16 engine fitted to later Rover 820

and Vitesse models is a development of the “M” series unit and is similar in most areas. The engine was fitted to Rover 820 models from approximately October 1991 and is currently still in production. 14 The main differences between the two units is in the following areas. 15 The timing belt only drives the two camshafts; the water pump now being situated externally on the engine, behind the power steering pump, and driven (in conjunction with the power steering pump) by the auxiliary drive belt. The timing belt incorporates an automatic tensioner to maintain correct timing belt tension for virtually the life of the belt.

16 The semi-floating pistons are retained on the connecting rods by interference fit gudgeon pins. 17 The engine mountings have been revised to improve vibration resistance and power unit stability. 18 Other detail modifications have been incorporated, mainly in the area of ancillary component attachments, and these will be covered in greater detail where procedures in this Chapter are likely to be affected.

2 Repair operations possible

with the engine in the vehicle

The following operations can be carried out without having to remove the engine from the car:

(a) Compression pressure - testing. (b) Removal and refitting of the timing belt. (c) Removal and refitting of the camshaft and

tappets.

(d) Removal and refitting of the cylinder

head. (e) Removal and refitting of the sump. (f) Removal and refitting of the big-end

bearings.* (g) Removal and refitting of the piston and

connecting rod assemblies.* (h) Removal and refitting of the oil pump. (i) Removal and refitting of the engine

mountings. (j) Removal and refitting of the flywheel or

driveplate (after first removing the

transmission). * In extreme cases caused by a lack of necessary equipment, repair or renewal of piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and big-end bearings is possible with the engine in the vehicle. However, this practice is not recommended, because of the cleaning and preparation work that must be done to the components involved, and because of the amount of preliminary dismantling work required - these operations are therefore covered in Part C of this Chapter.

3 Compression test -

description and interpretation

1 When engine performance is down, or if misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to the ignition or fuel systems, a compression test can provide diagnostic clues as to the engine’s condition. If the test is performed regularly, it can give warning of trouble before any other symptoms become apparent. 2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature, the oil level must be correct, the battery must be fully charged, and the spark plugs must be removed. The aid of an assistant will also be required.

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•3

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

3 Disable the ignition system by disconnecting the LT wiring connectors from the ignition coil. Refer to Chapter 5 for further information. 4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1 cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester which screws into the plug thread is to be preferred. 5 Arrange for an assistant to hold the accelerator pedal fully depressed to the floor while at the same time cranking the engine over several times on the starter motor. Observe the compression gauge reading. The compression will build up fairly quickly in a healthy engine. Low compression on the first stroke, followed by gradually increasing pressure on successive strokes indicates worn piston rings. A low compression on the first stroke which does not rise on successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked cylinder head could also be the cause). Deposits on the underside of the valve heads can also cause low compression. Record the highest gauge reading obtained, then repeat the procedure for the remaining cylinders. 6 Due to the variety of testers available, and the fluctuation in starter motor speed when cranking the engine, different readings are often obtained when carrying out the compression test. However, the most important factor is that the compression pressures are uniform in all cylinders, and that is what this test is mainly concerned with. 7 Add some engine oil (about three squirts

from a plunger type oil can) to each cylinder through the spark plug holes and repeat the test. 8 If the compression increases after the oil is added it is indicative that the piston rings are definitely worn. If the compression does not increase significantly, the leakage is occurring at the valves or the head gasket. Leakage past the valves may be caused by burned valve seats and/or faces or warped, cracked or bent valves. 9 If two adjacent cylinders have equally low compressions, it is most likely that the head gasket has blown between them. The appearance of coolant in the combustion chambers or crankcase would verify this condition. 10 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower than the other, and the engine has a rough idle, a worn lobe on the camshaft could be the cause. 11 On completion of the checks, refit the spark plugs and reconnect the LT wiring at the ignition coil.

4 Camshaft covers -

removal and refitting

“M” series engines

Removal

1 Detach the breather hose from the rear of

the inlet camshaft cover. 2 On cars with multi-point fuel injection, release the plastic covers then undo the two bolts securing the plenum chamber support brackets to the plenum chamber. 3 Undo the two bolts and lift off the spark plug cover from the centre of the cylinder head. Note that the spark plug HT lead grommet engages with the end of the cover, and on certain models, an accelerator cable support bracket is also retained by the righthand cover bolt. 4 Undo the ten bolts securing each camshaft cover to its respective camshaft housing, and lift off the two covers (see illustrations). 5 Withdraw the baffle plates, taking care not to damage the sealing edges on both sides of the plates (see illustration).

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Renew the

baffle plates if their sealing edges are damaged. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.

“T” series engines

Removal

7 Detach the breather hoses from the side

and rear of the inlet camshaft cover. 8 Undo the two bolts securing the plenum chamber support brackets to the plenum chamber. 9 Undo the four screws and lift off the spark plug cover between the two camshaft covers. 10 Working from the centre outwards slacken then remove the ten bolts (inlet camshaft cover), or 12 bolts (exhaust camshaft cover) and lift off the two covers. 11 Withdraw the baffle plates, taking care not to damage the sealing edges on both sides of the plates.

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Renew

the baffle plates if their sealing edges are damaged. Tighten the cover bolts to the specified torque in the sequence shown (see

illustration).

5 Inlet manifold -

removal and refitting

Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when disconnecting

any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or bare light bulbs in or near the work area. Don’t work in a garage where a natural gas appliance (such as a clothes dryer or water heater) is installed. If you spill petrol on your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have a fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires handy, and know how to use it.

2A•4 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

4.12 Camshaft cover tightening sequence for “T” series engines

4.5 Remove the baffle plates over the camshafts

4.4b . . . and remove the covers

4.4a Undo the camshaft cover retaining bolts . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Single-point fuel injection engines

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead

(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Refer to Chapter 4A, and remove the air cleaner air box. 3 Relieve the fuel system pressure as described in Chapter 4A, Section 5. 4 Release the hose clips and disconnect the two fuel hoses from the fuel pipes (see

illustration). 5 Refer to Chapter 4A, Section 12, and

remove the throttle body. 6 Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the cooling system. 7 Undo the brake servo banjo hose union at the manifold, and recover the two copper washers (see illustration). 8 Slacken the hose clip and disconnect the coolant hose from the right-hand end of the manifold (see illustration). 9 Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the lefthand end of the manifold, after noting their respective positions for reassembly. 10 Slacken the hose clip and disconnect the remaining coolant hose from the manifold. 11 Undo the bolt securing the manifold to the support bracket under the coolant hose outlet. 12 Undo the bolt securing the upper end of the stay bar to the manifold. 13 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands.

14 Undo the manifold stay bar lower retaining bolt and remove the stay (see

illustration). 15 Release the clip and disconnect the breather hose from the oil separator (see illustration). 16 Disconnect the breather hose from the

lower end of the oil separator at the cylinder block, and at the sump outlet. 17 Disconnect the lead at the oil pressure switch and disconnect the pressure transducer lead at the wiring connector. 18 Unscrew the pipe union nut at the oil pressure switch adaptor. 19 Unscrew the bolt securing the oil pressure switch adaptor and oil separator to the cylinder block and remove the adaptor and oil separator. 20 Disconnect the wiring plug at the knock sensor on the cylinder block, and the two leads at the manifold heater temperature sensor under the manifold (see illustration). Move the wiring harness clear of the manifold. 21 Slacken the nine nuts and bolts securing the manifold to the cylinder head. 22 Remove all the bolts followed by the two nuts, then withdraw the manifold off the studs and remove it from the engine. Recover the manifold gasket. 23 Clean the manifold and cylinder head mating faces, and obtain a new gasket if the sealing lips of the original are damaged.

Refitting

24 Refitting is a reversal of removal; tighten

the manifold nuts and bolts in the sequence shown, to the specified torque (see illustration).

Multi-point fuel injection engines

Removal

25 Remove the fuel injectors and fuel rail as

described in Section 12 of either Chapter 4B, for “M” series, or Chapter 4C for “T” series. 26 Release the clip and disconnect the breather hose from the oil separator. 27 Disconnect the breather hose from the lower end of the oil separator and the sump outlet. 28 Disconnect the wires at the oil pressure switch, oil pressure transducer and knock sensor.

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•5

5.8 Disconnect the coolant hose from the right-hand end of the manifold

5.7 Undo the brake servo banjo hose union at the manifold

5.4 Release the hose clips and disconnect the two hoses from the fuel pipes

5.24 Inlet manifold nut and bolt tightening sequence

5.14 Undo the manifold stay bar lower retaining bolt (arrowed)

5.20 Disconnect the leads at the manifold heater temperature sensor

5.15 Disconnect the breather hose (A) from the oil separator (B)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

29 Slacken the nine nuts and bolts securing the manifold to the cylinder head. 30 Remove all the bolts, followed by the two nuts, then withdraw the manifold off the studs and remove it from the engine. Recover the manifold gasket. 31 Clean the manifold and cylinder head mating faces, and obtain a new gasket if the sealing lips of the original are damaged.

Refitting

32 Refitting is a reversal of removal; tighten

the manifold nuts and bolts in the sequence shown, to the specified torque (see

illustration 5.24).

6 Exhaust manifold -

removal and refitting

Note: Never work on or near a hot exhaust system and in particular, the catalytic converter (where fitted).

Single-point fuel injection engines

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead

(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Refer to Chapter 4A, Section 2, and remove the necessary air cleaner components to

provide access to the front and side of the engine. 3 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1.

4 Remove the dipstick from the dipstick tube. 5 Remove the distributor cap and place it to

one side. 6 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands. 7 Undo the four bolts securing the exhaust front pipe flange to the manifold. Separate the flange and recover the gasket. 8 Undo the bolts on both sides securing the two halves of the manifold stove together, and remove the outer half (see illustrations). 9 Undo the bolt securing the heater bypass pipe to the cylinder head and to the main coolant pipe support bracket (see

illustrations). 10 Slacken the clip securing the bypass pipe

connecting hose to the thermostat housing. 11 Undo the five nuts and bolts securing the manifold to the cylinder head, noting that the upper nut also secures the bypass pipe bracket (see illustration). 12 Release the connecting hose from the thermostat housing, and withdraw the bypass pipe from the manifold stud. 13 Remove the manifold from the cylinder head, followed by the inner half of the stove and the manifold gasket. 14 Clean the manifold and cylinder head mating faces, and obtain a new gasket if the original is damaged.

Refitting

15 Refitting is a reversal of removal; tighten

the manifold nuts and bolts starting with the upper two, then the lower centre, then the two outer, to the specified torque. Make sure that the inner half of the stove is in position before fitting the manifold.

Multi-point fuel injection engines

Normally-aspirated engines

16 Refer to the procedures described above

for single-point fuel injection engines, but ignore the instructions to remove the manifold stove, which is not fitted to models with multipoint fuel injection.

Turbocharged engines

17 Refer to Chapter 4B or 4C as applicable

and remove the turbocharger. 18 Refer to the procedures described above for single-point fuel injection engines, but ignore the instructions to remove the manifold stove, which is not fitted to models with multipoint fuel injection.

7 Timing belt (“M” series) -

removal, refitting and adjustment

Note: Accurate adjustment of the timing belt entails the use of a tension checking gauge which is a Rover special tool. An approximate setting can be achieved using the method described in this Section, but the tension should be checked by a Rover dealer on completion. Note: On early “M” series engines the crankshaft pulley and timing belt sprocket are a one-piece assembly secured by a single centre bolt. On later “M” series engines (with a front mounted power steering pump), the pulley and sprocket are two separate components secured by the centre retaining bolt and four additional bolts. As this difference significantly affects the timing belt procedures, identify the type being worked on before proceeding.

2A•6 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

6.11 Undo the manifold nuts and bolts,

noting that the upper nut also secures the

bypass pipe bracket

6.9b . . . and to the main coolant pipe bracket (arrowed)

6.9a Undo the bolt securing the bypass pipe to the cylinder head (arrowed) . . .

6.8b . . . and remove the stove outer half6.8a Undo the bolts securing the two

halves of the manifold stove . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Early “M” series engines

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead

(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Slacken the right-hand front wheel nuts, jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands. Remove the roadwheel. 3 Undo the three bolts and remove the access panel under the wheelarch. 4 Refer to Chapter 1 and remove the auxiliary drivebelt. 5 Position a jack and interposed block of wood under the sump, and just take the weight of the engine. 6 Undo the bolts securing the power steering pipe support brackets, and move the pipes

slightly to gain access to the right-hand engine mounting (see illustration). 7 Undo the engine mounting through-bolt, and recover the special nut. Note that the forked end of the nut plate locates over a stud on the body bracket (see illustration). 8 Undo the two bolts securing the engine mounting to its mounting bracket, and remove the mounting. 9 Raise the engine slightly, then undo the three bolts and lift off the timing belt upper cover (see illustration). 10 Undo the four bolts and remove the timing belt lower cover (see illustration). 11 Using a socket or spanner on the crankshaft pulley, turn the crankshaft in an anti-clockwise direction until the timing

notches on the camshaft sprockets are facing each other and aligned horizontally (see illustrations). The notch on the crankshaft pulley should also be aligned with the edge of the metal bracket which forms the timing belt bottom cover (see illustration). In this position, the crankshaft is at 90º BTDC, with No 1 piston on its compression stroke. 12 If required, the crankshaft can be locked in this position, by inserting a dowel rod or drill through the hole in the transmission adaptor plate, near to the lower edge of the cylinder block on the front-facing side of the engine (see illustration). The dowel or drill will then engage with a corresponding hole in the flywheel. 13 Undo the three bolts and remove the timing belt bottom cover (see illustration).

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•7

7.9 Timing belt upper cover retaining bolts (arrowed)

7.7 Undo the engine right-hand mounting through-bolt

7.6 Undo the bolts securing the power

steering pipe support brackets (arrowed)

7.13 Removing the timing belt bottom cover

7.12 Lock the crankshaft by inserting a dowel rod or drill (1) through the hole in

the transmission adaptor plate

7.11c Crankshaft pulley timing notch

(arrowed) aligned with timing belt bottom

cover

7.11b . . . then check their horizontal alignment with a straight edge

7.11a Turn the crankshaft to align the sprocket timing marks (arrowed) . . .

7.10 Timing belt lower cover retaining bolts (arrowed)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

14 Using an Allen key, undo the timing belt tensioner retaining bolt, and remove the tensioner (see illustration). 15 Slip the belt off the sprockets, and remove it from the engine. 16 If the timing belt is to be re-used, mark its running direction with an arrow in chalk, and store it on its edge while it is off the engine. 17 Check the belt for any sign of cracks or splits, particularly around the roots of the teeth. Renew the belt if wear is obvious, if there are signs of oil contamination, or if the belt has exceeded its service interval (see Chapter 1). Also renew the sprockets if they show any signs of wear or chipping of the teeth. 18 Check the tensioner and sprockets as described in Section 9. 19 Before refitting, check that the crankshaft is still at the 90º BTDC position, and that the timing marks on the two sprockets are still aligned.

Refitting and adjustment

20 Engage the timing belt with the teeth of

the crankshaft sprocket, and then pull the belt vertically upright on its straight, right-hand run. Keep it taut, and engage it over the exhaust camshaft sprocket, then the inlet camshaft sprocket. 21 Check that none of the sprockets have moved, then feed the belt around the idler pulley and engage it with the teeth of the water pump sprocket. 22 Fit the timing belt tensioner and secure with the retaining bolt, tightened finger-tight only at this stage. 23 Engage an Allen key with the hexagonal adjusting hole in the tensioner, and turn the tensioner body until there is moderate tension on the belt (see illustration). Hold the tensioner in this position, and tighten the retaining bolt. 24 Remove the locking pin (if used) from the transmission adaptor plate, and turn the crankshaft one complete turn clockwise, followed by one complete turn anti-clockwise, and re-align the timing marks. 25 Check that it is just possible to deflect the belt, using moderate hand pressure, by

19.0 mm at a point midway between the crankshaft and exhaust camshaft sprockets.

Re-adjust the tension if necessary by slackening the tensioner retaining bolt, and repositioning the tensioner body with the Allen key. Recheck the tension again after turning the crankshaft one turn clockwise, then one turn anti-clockwise. It must be emphasised that this is only an approximate setting, and the tension should be checked by a dealer, using the Rover tension gauge, at the earliest opportunity. 26 Refit the timing belt bottom cover, turn the crankshaft to align the pulley timing mark with the edge of the bottom cover, and make a final check that the camshaft sprocket timing marks are still aligned. 27 Refit the timing belt upper and lower covers. 28 Refit the engine mounting to its bracket, lower the engine and secure the mounting to the body with the through-bolt and special nut. 29 Refer to Chapter 1 and refit the auxiliary drivebelt. 30 Refit the power steering pipe support brackets, the wheelarch access panel, and the roadwheel. 31 Lower the car to the ground, tighten the wheel nuts fully, and reconnect the battery.

Later “M” series engines

Removal

32 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to

9 above. 33 Undo the four bolts and remove the timing belt centre cover. 34 Using a socket or spanner on the crankshaft pulley, turn the crankshaft in an anticlockwise direction until the notches on the camshaft sprockets are facing each other and aligned horizontally. Insert a dowel rod or drill through the hole in the transmission adaptor plate, near to the lower edge of the cylinder block on the front-facing side of the engine (see illustration 7.12). The dowel or drill will then engage with a corresponding hole in the flywheel. If the dowel won’t engage, turn the crankshaft through 180º and try again. With the dowel rod engaged and the camshaft notches aligned, the crankshaft is at 90º BTDC, with No 1 piston on its compression stroke. Temporarily remove the dowel rod.

35 Refer to Chapter 5, and remove the starter motor. 36 Using a socket and long handle, slacken the crankshaft pulley centre retaining bolt. Lock the flywheel ring gear, through the starter motor aperture, using a large screwdriver or similar tool to prevent the crankshaft rotating as the pulley bolt is undone. This operation will probably have moved the timing marks on the camshafts out of alignment, so re-align them, and fit the crankshaft dowel rod as described previously. 37 Remove the centre retaining bolt from the crankshaft pulley, then unscrew the four additional pulley bolts and remove the pulley. 38 Undo the bolts and remove the timing belt bottom cover. 39 Using an Allen key, undo the timing belt tensioner retaining bolt, and remove the tensioner. 40 Slip the belt off the sprockets, and remove it from the engine. 41 Check the timing belt, sprockets and tensioner as described in paragraphs 16 to

18. 42 Before refitting, check that the crankshaft is still at the 90º BTDC position, and that the timing marks on the two sprockets are still aligned.

Refitting and adjustment

43 Engage the timing belt with the teeth of

46 Refit the timing belt bottom cover. 47 Remove the dowel rod from the

crankshaft. 48 Refit the crankshaft pulley and secure with the centre bolt and four additional bolts, tightened to the specified torque. Hold the crankshaft using the same procedure as for removal to tighten the centre bolt. 49 Engage an Allen key with the hexagonal adjusting hole in the tensioner, and turn the tensioner body until there is moderate tension on the belt. Hold the tensioner in this position, and tighten the retaining bolt. 50 Turn the crankshaft one complete turn clockwise, followed by one complete turn anti-clockwise, and re-align the timing marks. 51 Check that it is just possible to deflect the belt, using moderate hand pressure, by

19.0 mm at a point midway between the crankshaft and exhaust camshaft sprockets. Re-adjust the tension if necessary by slackening the tensioner retaining bolt, and repositioning the tensioner body with the Allen key. Recheck the tension again after turning

2A•8 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

7.23 Tensioner hexagonal adjusting hole (arrowed)

7.14 Removing the timing belt tensioner

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

the crankshaft one turn clockwise, then one turn anti-clockwise. It must be emphasised that this is only an approximate setting, and the tension should be checked by a dealer, using the Rover tension gauge, at the earliest opportunity. 52 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of removal.

8 Timing belt (“T” series) -

removal, refitting and adjustment

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Slacken the right-hand front wheel nuts, jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands. Remove the roadwheel. 3 Undo the three bolts and remove the access panel under the wheelarch. 4 Refer to Chapter 1 and remove the auxiliary drivebelt. 5 Position a jack and interposed block of wood under the sump, and just take the weight of the engine. 6 Undo the bolts securing the power steering pipe support brackets, and move the pipes slightly to gain access to the right-hand engine mounting. 7 Undo the engine mounting through-bolt, and recover the special nut. Note that the forked end of the nut plate locates over a stud on the body bracket. 8 Undo the two bolts securing the engine mounting to its mounting bracket, and remove the mounting. 9 Raise the engine slightly, then undo the five bolts and lift off the timing belt upper cover

(see illustration). 10 Undo the remaining five bolts and remove

the timing belt centre cover. 11 Using a socket or spanner on the crankshaft pulley, turn the crankshaft in an anti-clockwise direction until the timing notches on the camshaft sprockets are facing each other and aligned horizontally. Insert a dowel rod or drill through the hole in the transmission adaptor plate, near to the lower edge of the cylinder block on the front-facing side of the engine (see illustration 7.12). The dowel or drill will then engage with a corresponding hole in the flywheel. If the dowel won’t engage, turn the crankshaft through 180º and try again. 12 With the dowel rod engaged and the camshaft notches aligned, the crankshaft is at 90º BTDC, with No 1 piston on its compression stroke. Temporarily remove the dowel rod. 13 Refer to Chapter 5, and remove the starter motor. 14 Using a socket and long handle, slacken the crankshaft pulley centre retaining bolt. Lock the flywheel ring gear, through the starter motor aperture, using a large

screwdriver or similar tool to prevent the crankshaft rotating as the pulley bolt is undone. This operation will probably have moved the timing marks on the camshafts out of alignment, so re-align them, and fit the crankshaft dowel rod as described previously. 15 Remove the centre retaining bolt from the crankshaft pulley, then unscrew the four additional pulley bolts and remove the pulley. 16 Undo the three bolts and remove the timing belt bottom cover. 17 Slacken the timing belt tensioner centre bolt, move the tensioner away from the belt as far as it will go, then re-tighten the tensioner bolt. 18 Slip the belt off the sprockets, and remove it from the engine. 19 If the timing belt is to be re-used, mark its running direction with an arrow in chalk, and store it on its edge while it is off the engine. 20 Check the tensioner and sprockets as described in Section 9.

Refitting and adjustment

21 Before refitting the belt, check that the crankshaft is still at the 90º BTDC position (dowel rod engaged) and that the timing marks on the two sprockets are still aligned.

22 Engage the timing belt with the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket, and then pull the belt vertically upright on its straight, right-hand run. Keep it taut, and engage it over the exhaust camshaft sprocket, then the inlet camshaft sprocket. 23 Check that none of the sprockets have moved, then feed the belt around the tensioner.

24 Refit the timing belt bottom cover. 25 Remove the dowel rod from the

crankshaft. 26 Refit the crankshaft pulley and secure with the centre bolt and four additional bolts, tightened to the specified torque. Hold the crankshaft using the same procedure as for removal to tighten the centre bolt. 27 Slacken the timing belt tensioner retaining bolt slightly and allow the tensioner to automatically tension the belt. 28 Using a torque wrench applied to the inlet camshaft sprocket retaining bolt, apply a load of 40 Nm, in an anti-clockwise direction, to take up all the slack in the timing belt. Hold this load, and tighten the tensioner retaining bolt to the specified torque. 29 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of removal.

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•9

8.9 Timing belt components as fitted to “T” series engines

1 Upper cover bolt 2 Upper cover 3 Camshaft sprocket bolt 4 Washer 5 Timing belt 6 Inlet camshaft sprocket 7 Exhaust camshaft sprocket 8 Backplate bolt

9 Upper backplate 10 Lower backplate 11 Spring sleeve 12 Anchorage bolt 13 Tensioner spring 14 Timing belt tensioner 15 Tensioner bolt

16 Crankshaft sprocket 17 Bottom cover 18 Bottom cover bolt 19 Centre cover 20 Crankshaft pulley 21 Pulley-to-sprocket bolts 22 Pulley centre bolt

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

9 Timing belt tensioner and

sprockets - removal,

inspection and refitting

Tensioner

Removal

1 Remove the timing belt as described in

Sections 7, or 8, according to engine type. 2 On the “M” series engine, the tensioner will have been removed together with the timing belt; proceed to paragraph 6. 3 On the “T” series engine, slacken the tensioner retaining bolt and allow the tensioner to move fully under the action of the spring. 4 Unhook the tensioner spring from the anchorage stud. 5 Remove the tensioner retaining bolt, lift off the tensioner and remove the spring.

Inspection

6 Spin the tensioner, and ensure that there is

no roughness or harshness in the bearing. Also check that the endfloat is not excessive and there is no sign of free play. Check the surface of the tensioner for any signs of roughness, nicks or scoring which may damage the timing belt. Renew the tensioner if worn. 7 On “T” series engines, measure the free length of the tensioner spring. If the free length is greater than that specified, renew the spring.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Camshaft sprockets

Removal

9 Remove the timing belt as described in

Sections 7, or 8, according to engine type. 10 Undo the retaining bolt securing each sprocket to its respective camshaft. To prevent the sprockets turning as the bolts are undone, either insert a large screwdriver through one of the sprocket holes and engage it with one of the backplate bolts behind, or make up a holding tool from scrap metal,

which is of a scissor shape, with a bolts at each end to engage with the holes in the sprocket. 11 Withdraw the two sprockets from the camshafts, noting that they are not identical, and should be marked INLET (or IN) and EXHAUST on their front faces to avoid confusion. If no marks are visible, make your own to identify each sprocket (see

illustration).

Inspection

12 Check the condition of the sprockets,

inspecting carefully for any wear grooves, pitting or scoring around the teeth, or any wear ridges which might cause damage to the timing belt. Make sure that the dowels are not worn and are not a loose fit in the camshaft or sprocket holes.

Refitting

13 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure

that the sprockets are fitted to their correct camshafts and tighten the retaining bolt to the specified torque.

Crankshaft sprocket

Removal

14 Remove the timing belt as described in

Sections 7, or 8, according to engine type. 15 Slide the sprocket off the front of the crankshaft (“T” series engines).

Inspection

16 Check the condition of the sprocket,

inspecting carefully for any wear grooves, pitting or scoring around the teeth, or any wear ridges which might cause damage to the timing belt. Examine the Woodruff key and its groove and make sure it is a tight fit.

Refitting

17 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

10 Camshaft oil seals -

renewal

Note: The use of an oil seal extractor which screws into the seal inside circumference is

preferable for this operation. These are available at most accessory shops and can often be hired from tool hire outlets. In the absence of this type of tool, an alternative (but less satisfactory) method of removal is described in the following procedure.

Front oil seals

1 Remove the camshaft sprockets as described in the previous Section. 2 On early “M” series engines undo the retaining bolt using an Allen key, and remove the timing belt idler pulley. Recover the spacer behind the pulley (see illustration). 3 Undo the bolts and remove the backplate from the cylinder head (see illustration). 4 The oil seals are now accessible for removal. Punch or drill two small holes opposite each other in the oil seal. Screw a self-tapping screw into each hole and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal. 5 Check that the housing is clean before fitting the new seal. Lubricate the lips of the seal and the running faces of the camshaft with clean engine oil, then carefully locate the seal over the camshaft and drive it squarely into position using a tube or a socket. Take great care not to turn over the lips of the seal as it is being fitted. An alternative method of fitting is to draw it squarely into position using the sprocket bolt and a distance piece. 6 With the seal fully inserted in its housing, refit the components removed for access then refit the camshaft sprockets as described in the previous Section.

Rear oil seals

Exhaust camshaft oil seal

7 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 and

remove the air cleaner assembly and intake trunking components as necessary for access. 8 Undo the two retaining bolts, withdraw the distributor cap, and place it to one side. 9 Undo the retaining Allen screw, and remove the distributor rotor arm. 10 Undo the two screws and remove the

2A•10 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

10.3 Undo the bolts (arrowed) and remove the backplate

10.2 Remove the timing belt idler pulley and recover the spacer (arrowed)

9.11 The camshaft sprockets are marked INLET (or IN) and EXHAUST on their front

faces (arrowed)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

distributor adaptor plate from the cylinder head (see illustration). 11 Punch or drill two small holes opposite each other in the seal. Screw a self-tapping screw into each, and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal. 12 Clean the seal location in the cylinder head; polish off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place. 13 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil and carefully locate the seal over the camshaft and into the cylinder head. 14 Using a tubular drift which bears on the hard outer edge of the seal, drive the seal fully into the head until it contact the inner land. 15 With the seal fully inserted in its housing, refit the components removed for access then refit the camshaft sprockets as described in the previous Section.

Inlet camshaft oil seal

16 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 and

remove the air cleaner assembly and intake trunking components as necessary for access. 17 On cars with multi-point fuel injection, undo the throttle housing retaining nuts, withdraw the housing from the studs and move it aside. Undo the two bolts and remove the blanking plate or camshaft sensor (turbocharged engines) from the cylinder head

(see illustration). 18 On cars fitted with a rear-mounted power

steering pump, remove the auxiliary drivebelt

as described in Chapter 1, remove the camshaft pulley, then withdraw the spacer behind the pulley. Undo the two nuts and two bolts, and remove the power steering pulley backplate. 19 The seal can now be removed and refitted as described in paragraphs 11 to 15 above.

11 Camshafts and hydraulic

tappets - removal, inspection

and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the timing belt as described in the Sections 7 or 8, according to engine type. 2 Remove the camshaft sprockets as described in Section 9. 3 On early “M” series engines, undo the bolt securing the timing belt idler pulley to the cylinder head using an Allen key (see illustration). Withdraw the pulley, noting that there is a spacing washer fitted between the pulley and cylinder head backplate. 4 Undo the four bolts and remove the cylinder head backplate. 5 Undo the two retaining bolts, withdraw the distributor cap, and place it to one side. 6 Undo the retaining Allen screw, and remove the distributor rotor arm. 7 Undo the two screws and remove the distributor adaptor plate from the cylinder head. 8 On cars fitted with a rear-mounted power

steering pump driven off the inlet camshaft, remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described in Chapter 1, remove the camshaft pulley then withdraw the spacer behind the pulley. Undo the two nuts and two bolts, and remove the power steering pulley backplate. 9 On cars fitted with a front-mounted power steering pump, undo the two bolts and remove the blanking plate or camshaft sensor (turbocharged engines) from the cylinder head. 10 Remove the camshaft covers as described in Section 4. 11 Slacken the ten bolts securing each camshaft housing to the cylinder head, then remove all the bolts except two on each housing at diagonally opposite corners. Make sure that the heads of the bolts left in position are at least 5.0 mm (0.2 in) clear of the housing face. Note that two types of retaining bolts are used to secure the camshaft housings. The three bolts on the inner edge of each housing nearest to the spark plugs are plain bolts, while all the rest are patch bolts. Patch bolts are of the micro-encapsulated type, having their threads fitted with a locking/sealing compound. Obtain new plain and patch bolts prior to reassembly. 12 Using a plastic or hide mallet, carefully tap up each housing to release it from the locating dowels. When the housings are free, remove the remaining bolts and lift off the two housings (see illustration). 13 Carefully lift out the camshafts, and remove the oil seals at each end. Identify each camshaft, inlet or exhaust, with a label after removal. 14 Have a box ready with sixteen internal compartments, marked Inlet 1 to 8, and Exhaust 1 to 8, or mark a sheet of card in a similar way. 15 Lift out each tappet in turn, and place it upside down in its respective position in the box or on the card (see illustration). If the tappets are difficult to remove by hand, use the rubber sucker end of a valve grinding tool to lift them out. 16 Prior to reassembly, obtain new camshaft oil seals, a complete set of camshaft housing retaining bolts, and a tube of Loctite sealant 574.

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•11

11.3 Undo the timing belt idler pulley bolt

10.17 Undo the two bolts (arrowed) and remove the blanking plate

10.10 Undo the two screws (arrowed) and remove the distributor adaptor plate

11.15 Lift out the tappets and keep them in order

11.12 Removing the exhaust camshaft housing

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Inspection

17 Clean and inspect the various components removed for signs of excessive wear. 18 Examine the camshaft bearing journals and lobes for damage or wear. If evident, a new camshaft must be fitted or one that has been renovated by a company specialising in exchange components. 19 The camshaft bearing bore diameters in the cylinder head should be measured and checked against the tolerances specified. A gauge will be required for this but if not available, check for excessive movement between the camshaft journals and the bearings. Alternatively, the Plastigage method, described in Part C of this Chapter, for main and big-end bearing running clearance checks, can be used. If the bearings are found to be unacceptably worn, either a new camshaft or a new cylinder head is required as the bearings are machined directly in the head. 20 It is seldom that the hydraulic tappets are badly worn in the cylinder head bores but again, if the tappets are scored, or the bores are found to be worn beyond an acceptable level, either the tappet(s) or the complete cylinder head must be renewed. 21 If the contact surface of the cam lobes show signs of depression or grooving, note that they cannot be renovated by grinding as the hardened surface will be removed and the overall length of the tappet(s) will be reduced. The self-adjustment point of the tappet will be exceeded as a result, so that the valve adjustment will be affected and they will then be noisy in operation. Therefore, renewal of the camshaft is the only remedy in this case.

Refitting

22 Remove all traces of sealant from the camshaft housing retaining bolt holes in the

cylinder head, using an M8 x 1.25 mm tap. Alternatively, use one of the old bolts with two file grooves cut into its threads. Also ensure that there is no oil remaining at the bottom of the bolt holes. 23 Thoroughly lubricate the tappet bores in the cylinder head, and refit the tappets in their original positions. 24 Lubricate the camshaft journals and lobes, then place the camshafts in position. Temporarily place the sprockets over the ends of the camshafts, and position the camshafts in the cylinder head so that the sprocket timing marks are horizontal and towards each other. 25 Lubricate the sealing lips of the new oil seals, carefully ease them over the camshaft journals, and position them against the shoulder in the cylinder head (see illustration). 26 Apply a thin bead of Loctite sealant 574 to the camshaft housing-to-cylinder head mating face, then place both housings in position on the cylinder head (see illustration). 27 Fit new housing retaining bolts (3 plain bolts and 7 patch bolts for each housing) and tighten them in the order shown (see illustration). Note the locations of the two types of bolt.

28 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of removal. When the engine is finally started, be prepared for a considerable rattle from the tappets until they completely fill with oil. This may take a few minutes, and will be more pronounced if any of the tappets have been renewed.

12 Cylinder head -

removal and refitting

Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when disconnecting

Single-point fuel injection engines

Removal

1 Drain the cooling system as described in

Chapter 1. 2 Remove the air cleaner, air box and intake trunking as described in Chapter 4A. 3 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 7 or 8, according to engine type. 4 Remove the camshaft covers as described in Section 4. 5 Undo the nuts and separate the exhaust front pipe from the manifold flange. Recover the gasket. 6 Slacken the clips and disconnect the radiator top hose, and the expansion tank hose at the thermostat housing. 7 Disconnect the wiring multiplug at the coolant temperature sensor. 8 Undo the brake servo vacuum hose banjo union bolt on the right-hand side of the inlet manifold, and recover the two copper washers. 9 Slacken the clip and disconnect the heater hose at the inlet manifold, behind the brake servo vacuum hose.

2A•12 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

11.26 Apply sealant to the camshaft housing mating face

11.25 Fitting the camshaft oil seals

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

11.27 Camshaft housing retaining bolt identification and tightening sequence

A Patch bolt locations B Plain bolt locations

10 Undo the bolt securing the stay bar to the inlet manifold, below the heater hose. 11 Slacken the clips and disconnect the heater bypass hose at the thermostat housing. 12 Slacken the clip and disconnect the heater hose at the other end of the bypass pipe. 13 Undo the bolts securing the bypass pipe to the exhaust manifold, cylinder head and main coolant pipe, release the clips securing the wiring harness, and remove the bypass pipe from the engine (see illustration). 14 Slacken the clip and disconnect the coolant hose at the left-hand end of the inlet manifold. 15 Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the inlet manifold, adjacent to the coolant hose. Mark the location of each hose as it is disconnected. 16 Undo the bolt securing the support bracket to the inlet manifold, below the vacuum hoses. 17 At the rear of the engine below the inlet manifold, release the wire clip and detach the breather hose from the top of the oil separator. Also detach the hose from the crankcase ventilation system diverter valve

(see illustration). 18 Disconnect the two wires to the inlet

manifold heater temperature sensor, on the underside of the manifold, and the single lead to the manifold heater at the wiring connector. 19 Slacken the accelerator cable locknuts, and unscrew the lower locknut off the outer

cable end. Open the throttle at the throttle cam, slip the cable end out of the cam slot, and remove the cable from the support bracket. Release the cable from the camshaft cover support bracket, and place it clear of the engine. 20 On automatic transmission models, disconnect the kickdown cable, using the same procedure as for the accelerator cable. 21 Disconnect the wiring multiplugs at the idle speed stepper motor, the fuel injector, and the throttle potentiometer. Move the wiring harness clear of the cylinder head. 22 Place absorbent rags around the fuel filter outlet union banjo bolt on the left-hand side of the filter, then slowly unscrew the bolt to release the fuel system pressure. Remove the bolt and recover the two copper washers after the pressure has been released. Tape over the filter orifice and banjo union to prevent fuel loss and dirt ingress. 23 Disconnect the fuel return hose at the pipe below the fuel filter. 24 Remove the dipstick from the dipstick tube. 25 On cars fitted with a rear-mounted power steering pump, extract the circlip from the end of the power steering pump drivebelt tension adjuster bolt. Slide the adjuster rearwards, and undo all the accessible bolts securing the adjuster bracket to the cylinder head. Now move the adjuster the other way, and undo the remaining bolts, then remove the adjuster assembly complete. 26 Progressively slacken all the cylinder head

retaining bolts, in the reverse sequence to that shown (see illustration 12.32c). Remove the bolts when all have been slackened. 27 With the help of an assistant, lift the cylinder head, complete with manifolds, off the engine. If the head is stuck, it can be carefully levered up using a large screwdriver between the cylinder block and the protruding cylinder head flanges. Do not insert the screwdriver under the head-to-block mating face. Place the head on blocks on the bench to protect the valves. 28 Remove the cylinder head gasket from the block. 29 Prior to refitting, ensure that the cylinder block and head mating faces are thoroughly clean and dry, with all traces of old gasket removed. Clean the threads of the retaining bolts, and remove any oil, water and thread sealer from the bolt holes.

Refitting

30 Locate a new gasket over the dowels on the cylinder block (see illustration). 31 Check that the crankshaft is still

positioned at the 90º BTDC position, and that the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets are aligned. 32 Lower the cylinder head assembly onto the gasket, and refit the retaining bolts. Working in the sequence shown, tighten the retaining bolts in stages, to the specified torque and angle settings given in the Specifications (see illustrations). 33 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•13

12.30 Locate a new cylinder head gasket over the dowels

12.17 Detach the hose from the diverter valve (arrowed)

12.13 Release the wiring harness clips from the bypass pipe

12.32b . . . then angle-tighten the bolts to the specified angular setting

12.32a Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the specified torque . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

12.32c Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

removal but refer to the relevant Sections and Chapters for adjustment details as necessary.

Multi-point fuel injection engines

Removal

34 Carry out the operations described in

Paragraphs 1 to 8. 35 On turbocharged engines remove the exhaust manifold as described in the relevant part of Chapter 4. 36 Slacken the clip and disconnect the heater hose at the other end of the bypass pipe. 37 Undo the bolts securing the bypass pipe to the exhaust manifold, cylinder head and main coolant pipe, and remove the bypass pipe. 38 Slacken the clips and disconnect the two coolant hoses from the underside of the throttle housing. 39 At the rear of the engine, disconnect the wiring multiplugs and leads at the crankshaft sensor, knock sensor, oil pressure switch and oil pressure transducer. 40 Disconnect the main engine wiring loom multiplug(s) on the right-hand side valance as necessary, to enable part of the loom to be removed with the cylinder head. 41 Check that all the wiring likely to impede removal of the cylinder head and its ancillaries has been disconnected, and the harness moved clear. It may be necessary to disconnect additional wiring, depending on options or additional equipment fitted. 42 Disconnect the breather hoses from the oil separator. 43 Open the throttle fully by hand, and slip the accelerator inner cable end out of the slot on the throttle lever. 44 Slacken the outer cable locknuts, and unscrew the outer locknut, nearest to the cable end, fully. Remove the washer and rubber bush, then withdraw the cable from the support bracket. 45 On automatic transmission models, disconnect the kickdown cable, using the same procedure as for the accelerator cable. 46 Place absorbent rags around the fuel filter outlet union banjo bolt on the left-hand side of the filter, then slowly unscrew the bleed screw in the centre of the bolt to release the fuel system pressure. Tighten the bleed screw when the pressure has been released. Undo the outlet union banjo bolt, and recover the two copper washers. Tape over the filter orifice, and banjo union to prevent fuel loss and dirt entry. 47 Unscrew the union nut and disconnect the fuel return hose at the fuel pressure regulator, on the left-hand side of the inlet manifold. 48 Remove the dipstick from the dipstick tube. 49 On cars fitted with a rear-mounted power steering pump, extract the circlip from the end of the power steering pump drivebelt tension

adjuster bolt. Slide the adjuster rearwards, and undo all the accessible bolts securing the adjuster bracket to the cylinder head. Now move the adjuster the other way, and undo the remaining bolts, then remove the adjuster assembly complete. 50 Progressively slacken all the cylinder head retaining bolts, in the reverse sequence to that shown (see illustration 12.32c). Remove the bolts when all have been slackened. 51 With the help of an assistant, lift the cylinder head, complete with manifolds, off the engine. If the head is stuck, it can be carefully levered up using a large screwdriver between the cylinder block and the protruding cylinder head flanges. Do not insert the screwdriver under the head-to-block mating face. Place the head on blocks on the bench to protect the valves. 52 Remove the cylinder head gasket from the block. 53 Prior to refitting, ensure that the cylinder block and head mating faces are thoroughly clean and dry, with all traces of old gasket removed. Clean the threads of the retaining bolts, and remove any oil, water and thread sealer from the bolt holes.

Refitting

54 Locate a new gasket over the dowels on

the cylinder block. 55 Check that the crankshaft is still positioned at the 90º BTDC position, and that the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets are aligned. 56 Lower the cylinder head assembly onto the gasket, and refit the retaining bolts. Working in the sequence shown, tighten the retaining bolts in stages, to the specified torque and angle settings given in the Specifications (see illustration 12.32c). 57 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of removal but refer to the relevant Sections and Chapters for adjustment details as necessary.

13 Sump -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands. 3 Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter

1. 4 Remove the exhaust front section with reference to the appropriate Part of Chapter 4. 5 Undo the bolts securing the longitudinal support member to the underbody beneath the engine, and remove the member. 6 Disconnect the crankcase breather

hose from the pipe stub on the side of the sump. 7 Where applicable, release the turbocharger oil return hose from the sump. 8 Slacken, then remove, the sump retaining bolts, noting that the corner bolt on the drain plug side at the flywheel end is longer than the rest, and has a flat washer and elongated washer in addition to the normal spring washer (see illustration). 9 Withdraw the sump from the crankcase, tapping it from side to side with a hide or plastic mallet if it is stuck. Recover the sump gasket. 10 If the oil pick-up tube and strainer are to be removed, undo the two bolts securing the tube flange to the crankcase, and the single bolt securing the support bracket to the main bearing cap (see illustration). 11 Slide the support bracket from under the crankcase breather oil return pipe, and remove the pick-up pipe and tube from the crankcase. Recover the O-ring from the pickup pipe flange. 12 Clean the sump thoroughly, and remove all traces of old gasket and sealant from the mating faces of the sump and crankcase. 13 If removed, clean the pick-up pipe, and the filter gauze in the strainer.

Refitting

14 Place a new O-ring seal on the pick-up pipe flange, fit the pipe and strainer assembly, and secure with the retaining bolts,

2A•14 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

13.8 Sump special retaining bolt location

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

13.10 Undo the two pick-up pipe-tocrankcase bolts

tightened to the specified torque (see illustration). 15 Apply a bead of RTV sealant to the joint

between Nos 1 and 5 main bearing caps and the edge of the crankcase (see illustration). Apply gasket sealant to the sump and crankcase mating faces, then place a new gasket in position. 16 Refit the sump, and tighten the retaining bolts progressively, and in sequence, to the specified torque (see illustration). 17 Refit the crankcase breather hose and turbocharger oil return hose. 18 Refit the exhaust front section as described in Chapter 4.

19 Refit the longitudinal support member. 20 Lower the car to the ground, reconnect

the battery and fill the engine with oil as described in Chapter 1.

14 Oil pump -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 7 or 8 according to engine type. On “T” series engines also remove the timing belt tensioner as described in Section 9. 2 Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter as described in Chapter 1. 3 On early “M” series engines, remove the starter motor as described in Chapter 5. Using

a socket and long handle, slacken the crankshaft pulley centre retaining bolt. Lock the flywheel ring gear, through the starter motor aperture, using a large screwdriver or similar tool to prevent the crankshaft rotating as the pulley bolt is undone. Remove the bolt and withdraw the pulley. 4 On later “M” series engines and all “T” series engines, withdraw the sprocket from the crankshaft. 5 Remove the Woodruff key from the slot in the crankshaft. 6 Unscrew the oil pipe unions on the side of the filter housing, then undo the bolt securing the oil pipe retaining clip and timing belt backplate to the crankcase (see illustration). Where fitted unscrew the oil cooler feed and return pipe unions from the pump housing. 7 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the timing belt lower backplate. 8 Undo the housing retaining bolts, and withdraw the assembly from the crankshaft and crankcase (see illustration). Recover the gasket.

Refitting

9 Ensure that the pump housing and crankcase mating faces are thoroughly clean, with all traces of old gasket and sealer removed. 10 Apply a bead of RTV sealant to the vertical joint between the main bearing cap and the crankcase, and smear jointing compound to both faces of a new gasket. Place the gasket in position on the crankcase.

11 Lubricate the lip of the oil seal, then locate the pump housing in place. 12 Fit the retaining bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque.

13 Refit the timing belt lower backplate. 14 Reconnect the oil pipe and where

applicable, the oil cooler unions, and refit the pipe support clip retaining bolt. 15 Place the Woodruff key in its crankshaft groove, then refit the crankshaft pulley, retaining bolt and washer. 16 Refit the crankshaft sprocket on later “M” series engines and all “T” series engines. 17 On early “M” series engines, refit the crankshaft pulley and tighten the retaining bolt to the specified torque. Prevent the crankshaft rotating using the same method as used for removal when tightening the bolt. Refit the starter motor as described in Chapter 5. 18 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 7 or 8 as applicable. 19 Fit a new oil filter, and fill the engine with oil as described in Chapter 1.

15 Oil pump - dismantling,

inspection and reassembly

Dismantling

1 With the pump housing removed from the engine, undo the four Torx retaining bolts on the housing rear face, and lift off the pump cover (see illustration).

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•15

13.16 Sump retaining bolt tightening sequence

13.15 Apply sealant to the main bearing cap joints

13.14 Fit a new O-ring to the pick-up pipe flange

15.1 Oil pump cover retaining bolts (arrowed)

14.8 Oil pump housing retaining bolts (arrowed)

14.6 Undo the bolt securing the oil pipe retaining clip and timing belt backplate

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

H28968

2 To remove the pressure relief valve components, extract the split pin and withdraw the plug cap, spring and relief valve plunger (see illustration). 3 Using a screwdriver, prise out the crankshaft front oil seal from the oil pump housing.

Inspection

4 Inspect the condition of the inner and outer rotors for visual signs of scoring or wear ridges. Note that the pump internal parts are not available separately, and if there is any sign of wear, a complete new oil pump and housing assembly must be obtained. 5 Check the plunger for scoring or wear ridges, and renew if necessary. Also renew the plug cap O-ring if it shows signs of deterioration.

Reassembly

6 Liberally lubricate the pump rotors to prime the pump, then refit the pump cover and secure with the four Torx bolts. 7 Lubricate the relief valve components with engine oil, then refit the plunger, spring and plug cap. Secure the cap with a new split pin. 8 Place a new oil seal in position, and carefully tap it home with the aid of a mallet, block of wood and the old oil seal.

16 Crankshaft oil seals -

renewal

Front oil seal

1 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 7 or 8, according to engine type. 2 On early “M” series engines, remove the starter motor as described in Chapter 5. Using a socket and long handle, slacken the crankshaft pulley centre retaining bolt. Lock the flywheel ring gear, through the starter motor aperture, using a large screwdriver or similar tool to prevent the crankshaft rotating as the pulley bolt is undone. Remove the bolt and withdraw the pulley. 3 On later “M” series engines and all “T” series engines, withdraw the sprocket from the crankshaft.

4 Remove the Woodruff key from the slot in the crankshaft. 5 Punch or drill two small holes opposite each other in the seal. Screw a self-tapping screw into each, and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal. 6 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place. 7 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil and carefully locate the seal over the crankshaft and into the housing. 8 Using a tubular drift which bears on the hard outer edge of the seal, drive the seal into the housing until it is flush with the housing face.

9 Refit the Woodruff key to the crankshaft. 10 On later “M” series engines and all “T”

series engines, refit the sprocket to the crankshaft. 11 On early “M” series engines, refit the crankshaft pulley and tighten the retaining bolt to the specified torque. Prevent the crankshaft rotating using the same method as used for removal when tightening the bolt. Refit the starter motor as described in Chapter 5. 12 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 7 or 8 as applicable.

Rear oil seal

13 Remove the flywheel/driveplate as described in Section 17.

“M” series engines

14 Punch or drill two small holes opposite

each other in the seal. Screw a self-tapping screw into each, and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal. 15 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place. 16 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil and carefully locate the seal on the end of the crankshaft. 17 Using a tubular drift which bears on the hard outer edge of the seal, drive the seal into the housing until it is flush with the housing face. 18 Clean off any surplus oil then refit the flywheel/driveplate as described in Section 17.

“T” series engines

19 Drain the engine oil as described in

Chapter 1. 20 Slacken all the sump securing bolts in a progressive sequence, but do not slacken the three at the timing belt end. 21 Completely remove the two bolts at the other end, securing the sump to the oil seal carrier. 22 Undo the five bolts and carefully remove the oil seal carrier from the cylinder block dowels and crankshaft. Take great care not to damage the sump gasket as the carrier is removed. 23 Note that the oil seal carrier and the oil seal itself, are supplied as an assembly; the seal is not available separately.

24 Before refitting, inspect the sump gasket; if it was damaged in any way during removal it must be renewed. 25 Clean the end of the crankshaft, and polish off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place. 26 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil and carefully locate the seal on the end of the crankshaft. 27 Push the oil seal carrier into position over the locating dowels and refit the retaining bolts. Progressively tighten the carrier bolts to the specified torque, starting with the two at the bottom, then the two in the centre, and finally the one at the top. 28 Tighten the sump bolts to the specified torque, in the correct sequence (see Section 13). 29 Refit the flywheel/driveplate as described in Section 17. Refill the engine with oil on completion of refitting, and check for leaks around the sump flange when the engine is run.

17 Flywheel/driveplate -

removal, inspection and refitting

Removal

1 With the engine removed from the car and separated from the transmission, or with the transmission removed as described in Chapter 7, remove the clutch assembly (manual transmission) as described in Chapter

6. 2 Where fitted, knock back the tabs of the locking plate, using a screwdriver or small chisel, and undo the six flywheel/driveplate retaining bolts. Note that the retaining bolts

are of the encapsulated type, incorporating a locking compound in their threads, and new bolts must be obtained for reassembly.

3 Lift off the locking plate, then withdraw the flywheel/driveplate from the crankshaft. On automatic transmission models, recover the spacer from the end of the crankshaft.

Inspection

4 Inspect the starter ring gear on the flywheel or driveplate for wear or broken teeth. If evident, the ring gear should be renewed. On automatic transmission models, the ring gear is bolted to the driveplate, and renewal is straightforward. On manual transmission models however, the ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel, and renewal entails drilling

2A•16 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

15.2 Oil pressure relief valve components

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

To prevent the flywheel turning, lock the ring gear teeth using a small strip of

angle iron engaged in the teeth and against the adaptor plate dowel.

the old ring then splitting it with a chisel. The new ring must then be heated so that it expands slightly, and allowed to cool when in position on the flywheel. As it cools, it contracts to a smaller diameter than the flywheel so as to provide a tight interference fit. The temperatures involved in this operation are critical to avoid damaging the ring gear, and the work should be carried out by a Rover dealer or motor engineering works. 5 The clutch friction surface on the flywheel should be checked for grooving or cracks, the latter being caused by overheating. If these conditions are evident, renewal of the flywheel is necessary. 6 On manual and automatic transmission models, check the condition of the reluctor ring teeth. If any are bent, broken. or in any way damaged, renew the ring, which is bolted to the flywheel or driveplate.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten the new bolts to the specified torque, then bend over the tabs of a new locking plate.

18 Engine/transmission

mountings -

inspection and renewal

Inspection

1 The engine/transmission mountings seldom require attention, but broken or deteriorated mountings should be renewed immediately, or the added strain placed on the driveline components may cause damage or wear (see

illustration). 2 During the check, the engine/transmission

unit must be raised slightly, to remove its weight from the mountings. 3 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it securely on axle stands. Position a jack under the sump, with a large block of wood between the jack head and the sump, then carefully raise the engine/transmission just enough to take the weight off the mountings. 4 Check the mountings to see if the rubber is cracked, hardened or separated from the metal components. Sometimes the rubber will split right down the centre. 5 Check for relative movement between each mounting’s brackets and the engine/ transmission or body (use a large screwdriver or lever to attempt to move the mountings). If movement is noted, lower the engine and check-tighten the mounting fasteners.

Renewal

Front mounting

6 Remove the battery as described in

Chapter 5, then undo the retaining bolts and remove the battery tray. 7 Remove the air cleaner assembly as described in the relevant part of Chapter 4.

8 Undo the nut securing the mounting to the engine mounting bracket, and the two bolts securing the mounting to the front chassis member. 9 Using a jack and interposed block of wood, raise the engine slightly until the mounting stud can be withdrawn from the bracket, then remove the mounting from the car. 10 Renew the mounting if it shows any sign of damage, contamination or separation of the rubber-to-metal bond. 11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the small peg on the mounting top face engages with the hole in the bracket, and tighten the bolts and nut to the specified torque (Chapter 2, Part C).

Rear mounting

12 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air

intake trunking as described in the relevant part of Chapter 4. 13 Jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands. 14 Undo the bolts and remove the longitudinal support member from beneath the engine. 15 Support the engine and transmission

assembly on a jack with interposed block of wood. 16 Undo and remove all the nuts and bolts securing the mounting to its mounting bracket and chassis member, and the mounting bracket to the engine. 17 Withdraw the mounting bracket from below, followed by the mounting. If there is a spacer located between the mounting and mounting bracket, retain this for refitting with the existing mounting, but discard it if the mounting is being renewed. 18 Renew the mounting if it shows any sign of damage, contamination or separation of the rubber-to-metal bond. 19 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the small peg on the mounting top face engages with the hole in the bracket, and tighten the bolts and nut to the specified torque (Chapter 2, Part C).

Right-hand mounting

20 Position a jack and interposed block of

wood under the sump, and just take the weight of the engine. 21 Undo the bolts securing the power steering pipe support brackets, and move the

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•17

18.1 Engine mounting components (manual transmission shown - automatic transmission similar)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

pipes slightly to gain access to the right-hand mounting. 22 Undo the mounting through-bolt, and recover the special nut. Note that the forked end of the nut plate locates over a stud on the body bracket. 23 Undo the two bolts and remove the mounting and snubber plates from the bracket on the engine. 24 Renew the mounting if it shows any sign of damage, contamination or separation of the rubber-to-metal bond. 25 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but tighten the bolts to the specified torque (Chapter 2, Part C). Ensure that the mounting is correctly orientated when fitting, with its central casting web facing upwards.

Rear tie-bar

26 On cars equipped with single-point fuel

injection, remove the air cleaner assembly as described in Chapter 4A. 27 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1, then disconnect the heater hoses and coolant hoses in the vicinity of the tie-bar as necessary to provide access. 28 Undo the two through-bolts securing the tie-bar to its mounting brackets. Note that at the larger end of the tie-bar, the through-bolt

is retained by a forked nut which engages over a peg on the engine bracket. 29 Using a screwdriver if necessary, prise the tie-bar from its brackets and remove it from the car. 30 Renew the tie-bar if it shows any sign of damage, contamination or separation from the rubber-to-metal bond. 31 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the tie-bar is positioned with the word TOP, on the larger end of the bar, uppermost. Tighten the through-bolts to the specified torque (Chapter 2, Part C), then refit the air cleaner as described in Chapter 4A. Refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1 on completion.

Snubber

32 Jack up the front of the car and support it

on axle stands. 33 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the longitudinal support member from under the engine. 34 Undo the nuts and remove the backing plate and snubber from the longitudinal support member. 35 If required, undo the nuts and bolts and remove the snubber bracket from the transmission adaptor plate. 36 Renew the snubber if it shows any sign of

damage, contamination or separation of the rubber-to-metal bond. Check also for signs of wear on the snubber bracket, and renew if necessary. 37 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Centralise the snubber in its bracket before tightening the bolts and nuts to the specified torque (Chapter 2, Part C).

Lower tie-bar

38 Jack up the front of the car and support it

on axle stands. 39 Undo the two through-bolts securing the tie-bar to its mounting brackets. Note that at the larger end of the tie-bar, the through-bolt is retained by a forked nut which engages over a peg on the mounting bracket. 40 Using a screwdriver if necessary, prise the tie-bar from its brackets and remove it from the car. 41 Renew the tie-bar if it shows any signs of damage, contamination or separation of the rubber-to-metal bond. 42 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal, but ensure that the tie-bar is positioned with the letters BTM, on the larger end of the bar, facing downwards, and tighten the through-bolts to the specified torque (Chapter 2, Part C).

2A•18 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

General

Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . V6, single overhead camshaft per bank

Engine code:

2.5 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C25A

2.7 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C27A

Capacity:

2.5 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2496 cc

2.7 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2675 cc

Bore:

2.5 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 mm

2.7 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87.0 mm

Stroke (all engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.0 mm

Compression ratio:

2.5 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.6:1

2.7 litre engines:

Non-catalyst equipped engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.4:1

Catalyst equipped engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0:1

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-4-2-5-3-6 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end on rear bank)

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Radial clearance on rocker shaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.08 mm maximum

Cylinder head

Maximum gasket face distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.2 mm

Camshafts and hydraulic tappets

Camshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 to 0.15 mm

Camshaft bearing running clearance:

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.045 to 0.081 mm

Used . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 mm maximum

Hydraulic tappet seating stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.08 mm maximum

Chapter 2 Part B: V6 engine – in-car engine repair procedures

Auxiliary drivebelts check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Camshaft and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and refitting 15

Camshaft covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Camshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Cylinder head, rocker gear and valve assemblies - cleaning and

inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2C

Cylinder head side covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2C

Engine/transmission - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2C

Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . 21

Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Exhaust valve rocker clearances - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 22

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Oil cooler and filter head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . 2

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Timing belt - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Top Dead Centre (TDC) for number 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . 4

Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 3

2B•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Lubrication

Engine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Cylinder head bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 50

Cylinder head side cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Timing belt cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Timing belt backplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Timing belt tensioner bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 32

Camshaft sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 24

Camshaft carrier bolts:

4 bolts at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

2 bolts at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 21

Oil gallery bolts:

8 bolts at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 21

2 bolts at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Crankshaft pulley centre bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 85

Driveplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 55

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 78

Filter head bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Main bearing caps:

Bolts 1 to 8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 30

Bolts 9 to 16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 50

Bolts 17 to 24 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37

Big-end bearing caps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37

Oil cooler centre bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37

Oil pump housing bolts:

M6 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

M8 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Oil pick-up pipe bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Sump nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Rocker arm guide plate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Inlet manifold retaining nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Exhaust manifold retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Front engine mounting to transmission bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59

Front engine mounting bracket to transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Rear engine mounting bracket to transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Right-hand engine mounting through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Right-hand engine mounting to engine bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44

Right-hand engine mounting bracket to engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Engine rear tie-bar to mounting bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 55

Engine rear tie-bar mounting bracket bolts:

M10 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

M12 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63

Engine rear tie-bar through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63

Longitudinal support member to underbody . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Engine snubber bracket to transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

2B•2 V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 General information

How to use this Chapter

1 This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repair procedures possible while the engine is still installed in the car, and includes only the Specifications relevant to those procedures. Since these procedures are based on the assumption that the engine is installed in the car, if the engine has been removed and mounted on a stand, some of the preliminary dismantling steps outlined will not apply. 2 Information concerning engine / trans-

mission removal and refitting, and engine overhaul, can be found in Part C of this Chapter, which also includes the Specifications relevant to those procedures.

Engine description

3 The V6 engine fitted to Rover 825, 827 and Sterling models is a water-cooled, sixcylinder, four-stroke petrol engine, of single overhead camshaft configuration per bank, and 2494 cc (2.5 litre) or 2675 cc (2.7 litre) capacity. The larger capacity being achieved by an increase in cylinder bore diameter. The

2.5 litre engine was fitted to Rover 825 models from 1986 until 1988, to be replaced by the

2.7 litre engine which is currently still in production.

4 The combined crankcase and cylinder block is of die-cast aluminium alloy construction, and houses the pistons, connecting rods and crankshaft. The solid skirt cast aluminium alloy pistons have two compression rings and an oil control ring, and are retained on the connecting rods by semifloating gudgeon pins which are an interference fit in the connecting rods. The forged steel connecting rods are attached to the crankshaft by renewable shell type bigend bearings. The crankshaft is carried in four main bearings, also of the renewable shell type. Crankshaft endfloat is controlled by thrust washers which are located on either side of No 3 main bearing. 5 A single overhead camshaft is located in

each cylinder head, and is retained in position by a housing bolted to the cylinder head upper face. The camshafts are supported by bearing journals machined directly into the head and housings. Drive to the camshafts is by an internally-toothed composite rubber timing belt, from a sprocket on the front end of the crankshaft. The belt also drives the water pump pulley, and an automatic tensioner is fitted to eliminate backlash and prevent slackness of the belt. 6 The camshafts operate slippers which pivot on hydraulic tappets, one for each valve. The inlet valves are operated directly from the camshaft slippers, whereas the exhaust valves are operated indirectly from the camshaft slippers by pushrods and adjustable rocker arms (see illustration). 7 The engine utilizes four valves per cylinder, mounted at an inclined angle, and running in guides which are pressed into the cylinder head. The valves are of small diameter, to improve breathing efficiency and reduce valve mass. 8 The distributor is attached to the rear of the front facing cylinder head and is driven off the rear of the camshaft. The power steering pump and alternator are mounted on top of the engine and driven by separate drivebelts from the crankshaft pulley. 9 Blow-by gases from the crankcase are vented by a positive crankcase ventilation system back into the intake air stream for combustion. 10 The pressed-steel sump is attached to the underside of the crankcase, and acts as a reservoir for the engine oil. The oil pump

draws oil through a strainer attached to the pick-up pipe and submerged in the oil. The pump passes the oil along a passage and into the full-flow filter and oil cooler assembly, mounted on the front of the engine. The filtered oil flows from the filter and enters the main cylinder block oil gallery, which feeds the crankshaft main bearings. Oil passes from the main bearings, through drillings in the crankshaft to the big-end bearings. 11 A drilling from the main oil gallery feeds the cylinder head gallery, where the oil is directed to the camshaft bearings, cams and cam slippers, and to the hydraulic tappets, rocker arm pivots and rocker arm shafts. The oil then drains back into the sump via large drillings in the cylinder head and cylinder block. 12 A pressure relief valve is incorporated in the oil pump, to maintain the oil pressure within specified limits. 13 Apart from minor development differences, both the 2.5 and 2.7 litre versions of the engine are mechanically identical.

2 Repair operations possible

with the engine in the vehicle

The following operations can be carried out without having to remove the engine from the car:

(a) Compression pressure - testing. (b) Removal and refitting of the timing belt. (c) Removal and refitting of the camshaft and

tappets.

(d) Removal and refitting of the cylinder

head. (e) Removal and refitting of the sump. (f) Removal and refitting of the big-end

bearings.* (g) Removal and refitting of the piston and

connecting rod assemblies.* (h) Removal and refitting of the oil pump. (i) Removal and refitting of the engine

mountings. (j) Removal and refitting of the flywheel or

driveplate (after first removing the

Precautionary note

Due to the layout of the V6 engine, and the very limited space available in the engine compartment, access to most components is extremely limited. Although it is physically possible to carry out the operations described above with the engine in the car, the space

restrictions, the number of components that need to be removed for access, and the complications involved when working on an engine of this complexity, may present unforseen difficulties.

Read through all the relevant procedures and familiarize yourself with what’s involved before proceeding; in many instances, it may actually be easier to remove the engine from the car, and carry out the repair with the unit on the bench. Strictly speaking, much of the work described in this Chapter is not for the faint-hearted, and should really only be undertaken by the more experienced DIY owner.

3 Compression test -

description and interpretation

Refer to Part A, Section 3.

4 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for

number 1 piston - locating

General

1 Top Dead Centre (TDC) is the highest point that each piston reaches as the crankshaft rotates. While each piston reaches TDC both at the top of the compression stroke and again at the top of the exhaust stroke, for the purpose of timing the engine, TDC refers to the piston position (usually No 1 piston) at the top of its compression stroke. 2 It is useful for several servicing procedures to be able to position the engine at TDC. 3 No 1 piston and cylinder are at the righthand (timing belt) end of the engine (right- and left-hand are always as seen from the driver’s seat), on the rear bank (ie under the brake master cylinder). The crankshaft rotates clockwise when viewed from the right-hand side of the vehicle.

Locating TDC

4 Remove the small plastic plug from the viewing hole on the front of each timing belt upper cover (see illustration).

V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures 2B•3

1 Camshaft 2 Hydraulic tappet 3 Inlet valves 4 Inlet valve slippers 5 Exhaust valves 6 Exhaust valve

slippers

7 Pushrods 8 Rocker arms

9 Tappet body 10 Plunger 11 Check ball 12 Return spring

1.6 General arrangement of the V6 engine valve gear

4.4 Remove the plastic plug from the

viewing hole on each timing belt upper

cover

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

5 Remove the access cover under the righthand wheelarch. 6 Using a socket and bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft pulley, in the normal direction of rotation, until a series of very small notches on the pulley inner rim come into view. The first three notches are the ignition timing marks and can be ignored. The next notch (usually coloured white) represents Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston on compression, and this is the one we’re after

(see illustration). 7 Continue turning the crankshaft until the

TDC notch is aligned with the pointer on the timing belt cover, just above the pulley. It’s best to look down at this from the engine compartment to get the angle right. 8 Now look through the viewing hole on the front timing belt cover. A paint mark on the camshaft sprocket rim should be aligned with the notch at the top of the viewing window (see illustration). If it isn’t, turn the crankshaft through one complete revolution and realign the timing marks as before. The mark on the camshaft sprocket should now be correctly aligned. The mark on the rear camshaft sprocket should also be visible through the other window. 9 When all the marks are aligned, the engine is at TDC for No 1 cylinder on compression, and is correctly positioned for any work that requires the timing belt to be disturbed. 10 Refit the plugs to the viewing windows on completion.

5 Camshaft covers -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Release the spark plug HT leads from their clips on the camshaft covers and move the leads to one side. 2 Release the clips and disconnect the breather hoses from the camshaft covers. 3 Disconnect the oil temperature switch wiring multiplug from the rear camshaft cover. 4 Undo the two bolts and detach the pipe support brackets from the rear cover.

5 Undo the two bolts securing each camshaft cover to the cylinder head and lift off the covers (see illustration). Collect the washers under the bolt heads, and remove the cover gaskets. 6 Inspect the cover gasket and the seals on the retaining bolts and renew any that are damaged. 7 Clean the cover and mating faces carefully then, if necessary, fit a new gasket to the cover, ensuring that it locates in the cover grooves.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

6 Cylinder head side covers -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 If the rear cover is being removed, jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Access to the rear cover is marginally better from below. 2 Move the adjacent components clear as much as possible and undo the side cover retaining bolts. Note the oxygen sensor wiring support bracket attachments on one of the lower bolts and the engine earth lead on the upper front cover bolt (see illustration).

3 Withdraw the side covers from the cylinder head being prepared for some oil spillage. 4 Inspect the condition of the cover gasket and renew it if necessary. 5 Clean the cover and mating faces carefully then, if necessary, fit a new gasket to the cover, ensuring that it locates in the cover grooves.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure that the arrow, and the word UP are at the top when refitting each cover (see illustration).

7 Exhaust valve rocker

clearances - adjustment

Note: This is not a routine maintenance operation and will only be necessary if the cylinder head, camshafts or any components of the valve train have been disturbed or renewed.

1 Remove the camshaft covers and the cylinder head side covers as described in Sections 5 and 6 respectively. 2 Set the engine to TDC for No 1 cylinder on compression, as described in Section 4. 3 Slacken the rocker arm adjusting screw locknuts for No 1 cylinder exhaust valves on the rear cylinder head. 4 Tighten the adjusting screw until it just contacts the valve, then tighten it a further

2B•4 V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures

6.6 Ensure that the arrow, and the word UP are at the top when refitting the side

covers

6.2 Engine earth lead (arrowed) on the upper front side cover bolt

5.5 Lifting off the front camshaft cover4.8 Paint mark on the camshaft sprocket

rim aligned with the notch at on the

viewing window

4.6 Ignition timing notches (A) and TDC notch (B) on the crankshaft pulley

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

one and a half turns. Tighten the locknut securely (see illustration). 5 Repeat paragraphs 3 and 4 for No 2 cylinder exhaust valves on the rear cylinder head, and No 4 cylinder exhaust valves on the front cylinder head. 6 Rotate the crankshaft through one complete revolution and realign the timing marks. 7 Repeat paragraphs 3 and 4 for No 5 and No 6 cylinder exhaust valves on the front cylinder head, and No 3 cylinder exhaust valves on the rear cylinder head. 8 Refit the cylinder head side covers and camshaft covers on completion.

8 Inlet manifold -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1. 2 Disconnect the spark plug HT leads from the spark plugs and cable clips and move the leads clear of the engine. Ensure each lead is labelled to identify its respective spark plug. 3 Refer to Chapter 4, Part D and remove the following components:

(a) Air cleaner and air intake components

(Section 2). (b) Throttle body (Section 12). (c) Electronic idle control valve (Section 12). (c) Fast idle valve (Section 12). (d) Front and rear fuel rail and injectors

(Section 12).

4 Refer to Chapter 4, Part E and remove the air suction valve pipe. 5 Check that all the vacuum hoses at the pipe cluster are numbered with corresponding numbers on their respective pip stubs. Mark any as necessary, then disconnect all the hoses from the pipe cluster stubs. 6 Check that all pipes, hoses and cables have been disconnected; undo the eight nuts and bolts securing the manifold to the cylinder head. 7 Lift the manifold up and off the engine and recover the two gaskets.

Refitting

8 Ensure that the manifold and cylinder mating faces are clean then place the manifold on the cylinder head using new gaskets. Secure the manifold with the eight nuts and bolts. 9 Refer to the relevant Parts of Chapter 4 and refit the previously removed components. 10 Reconnect the spark plug leads, then refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1.

9 Exhaust manifold -

removal and refitting

Note: Never work on or near a hot exhaust system and in particular, the catalytic converter (where fitted).

Removal

1 If the front manifold is being removed, refer to Chapter 3 and remove the radiator. 2 Jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. 3 On the front manifold, undo the two nuts and lift off the small heat shield and the air suction pipe flange. Recover the gasket. 4 Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring harness connectors and release the wiring from the support brackets. 5 Undo the bolts from the main manifold heatshields and remove the heatshields. 6 Undo the flange nuts and lower the exhaust front pipe from the manifold studs. Recover the gaskets. 7 Undo the seven nuts securing each manifold to its respective cylinder head, and remove the manifold(s). 8 Clean the mating faces of all components and obtain new gaskets prior to refitting.

Refitting

9 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Refit the radiator as described in Chapter 3 on completion.

10 Crankshaft pulley -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the auxiliary drivebelts for the alternator, power steering and if fitted, the air conditioning compressor as described in Chapter 1. 2 Remove the starter motor as described in Chapter 5. 3 Jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands. 4 Remove the access panel under the righthand wheelarch. 5 Using a socket and long handle, undo the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt. Lock the flywheel ring gear, through the starter motor

aperture, using a large screwdriver or tool to prevent the crankshaft rotating as the pulley bolt is undone. Remove the bolt and washer

(see illustration). 6 Withdraw the pulley from the crankshaft.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten the pulley retaining bolt to the specified torque. Refit the starter motor as described in Chapter 5, and the drivebelts as described in Chapter 1.

11 Timing belt covers -

removal and refitting

Upper covers

Removal

1 If the covers are being removed for any

procedure that will entail disturbing the timing belt, set the engine at TDC with No 1 cylinder on compression, as described in Section 4, before proceeding. 2 Remove the auxiliary drivebelts for the alternator, power steering and if fitted, the air conditioning compressor as described in Chapter 1. 3 Undo the three bolts securing the rear upper cover to the cylinder head (see

illustration). 4 Release the wiring harness support clips,

V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures 2B•5

7.4 Exhaust valve rocker clearance adjustment

11.3 Timing belt rear upper cover retaining bolts (arrowed)

10.5 Remove the bolt and washer and withdraw the crankshaft pulley

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

and move the harness clear, then withdraw the rear cover from the engine. 5 Undo the four bolts securing the front cover to the cylinder head (see illustration). 6 Undo the dipstick tube bolt and remove the front cover from the engine.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure

that the lip on the cover lower edge engages behind the lower cover (see illustration). Refit the drivebelts as described in Chapter 1.

Lower cover

Removal

8 Remove the upper covers as described

previously. 9 Remove the crankshaft pulley as described in Section 10.

10 Undo the eight bolts securing the lower cover to the engine (see illustration). 11 Release the rubber grommet from the protruding head of the timing belt tensioner retaining bolt (see illustration). 12 Undo the two bolts from the air conditioner compressor bracket and remove the drivebelt tensioner from the compressor bracket.

13 Withdraw the lower cover from the engine.

Refitting

14 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

12 Timing belt - removal, refitting

and adjustment

Note: Access may be improved if the coolant is drained and the expansion tank is removed (see Chapter 1).

Removal

1 Remove the timing belt upper and lower covers, as described in Section 11. Note that it will be necessary to support the engine, and remove the bolts from the right-hand engine mounting, to allow auxilliary drivebelt removal (see Chapter 1). 2 Slacken the timing belt tensioner retaining bolt and move the tensioner, against the pressure of the spring, to the fully released position. Tighten the bolt to hold the tensioner in this position.

3 Remove the belt guide from the crankshaft sprocket noting that it is fitted with its concave side facing outwards (see illustration). 4 Sketch the timing belt arrangement around the sprockets, water pump pulley and tensioner, as a guide when refitting (see

illustration). 5 Ease the belt off the camshaft sprockets,

then the water pump pulley and tensioner and finally, the crankshaft sprocket (see

illustration). Remove the belt from the engine. 6 If the timing belt is to be re-used, mark its

running direction with an arrow in chalk, and store it on its edge while it is off the engine. 7 Check the belt for any sign of cracks or splits, particularly around the roots of the teeth. Renew the belt if wear is obvious, if there are signs of oil contamination, or if the belt has exceeded its service interval (see Chapter 1). Also renew the sprockets if they show any signs of wear or chipping of the teeth. 8 Check the tensioner and sprockets as described in Section 13. 9 Before refitting the belt, check that the engine is still at TDC with No 1 cylinder on compression (Section 4) as it will probably have moved when the crankshaft pulley was removed. Use a screwdriver engaged with the flywheel teeth to move the crankshaft as necessary, and move the camshafts by means of their sprockets. With the covers removed, it is possible to see the mark or notch on the ends of the camshaft sprockets, which should be aligned with the corresponding line in the backplate (see

2B•6 V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures

12.5 Ease the belt off the camshaft sprockets

12.4 Timing belt arrangement around the sprockets, pulley and tensioner

12.3 Remove the belt guide from the crankshaft sprocket

11.11 Release the rubber grommet from the protruding head of the timing belt

tensioner retaining bolt

11.10 Timing belt lower cover retaining bolts (arrowed)

11.7 Ensure that the lip on the upper cover lower edge engages behind the lower

cover

11.5 Timing belt front upper cover retaining bolts (arrowed)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

illustrations). Similarly, there is a notch on the front of the crankshaft sprocket which should align with an arrow cast into the oil pump housing (see illustration).

Refitting and adjustment

10 Feed the timing belt around the sprockets, starting with the crankshaft sprocket, then, keeping it taught, feed it over the front camshaft sprocket, water pump pulley, rear camshaft sprocket, and tensioner pulley. 11 Slacken the timing belt tensioner retaining bolt, allow the tensioner to automatically tension the belt, then re-tighten the bolt. 12 Refit the belt guide to the crankshaft sprocket noting that it is fitted with its concave side facing outwards. 13 Check that the timing marks are still aligned with the engine at TDC, then refit the timing belt covers and crankshaft pulley. 14 Turn the engine over by means of the crankshaft pulley bolt to settle the belt on the sprockets. Return the crankshaft to TDC for No 1 cylinder on compression. 15 Now turn the crankshaft further by approximately nine teeth on the camshaft sprocket until an additional notch (usually coloured blue) is aligned with the pointer on the lower cover. 16 Slacken the timing belt tensioner bolt, then retighten it once more. 17 Turn the crankshaft further to return it to the TDC position for No 1 cylinder on

compression, and check that all the timing marks, on the pulley and camshaft sprockets are aligned as previously described. If they are all is well. If not, the belt is probably a tooth out and should be repositioned as previously described. 18 Refit the plugs to the upper covers, then refit the auxiliary drivebelts as described in Chapter 1.

13 Timing belt tensioner and

sprockets - removal,

inspection and refitting

Tensioner

Removal

1 Remove the timing belt as described in

Section 12. 2 Unhook the tensioner spring from the anchorage stud. 3 Remove the tensioner retaining bolt, lift off the tensioner and remove the spring (see

illustration).

Inspection

4 Spin the tensioner, and ensure that there is

damage the timing belt. Renew the tensioner if worn.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure

that the lower tensioner arm engages over the lug in the casing (see illustration).

Camshaft sprockets

Removal

6 Remove the timing belt as described in

Section 12. 7 Undo the three retaining bolts securing each sprocket to its respective camshaft. To prevent the sprockets turning as the bolts are undone, either insert a large screwdriver through one of the sprocket holes and engage it with one of the backplate bolts behind, or make up a holding tool from scrap metal, which is of a scissor shape, with a bolts at each end to engage with the holes in the sprocket (see illustration). 8 Withdraw the two sprockets from the camshafts, noting their orientation; the sprocket with the flanged edge is fitted to the front camshaft, and the sprocket with the spokes is fitted to the rear camshaft.

Inspection

9 Check the condition of the sprockets,

inspecting carefully for any wear grooves, pitting or scoring around the teeth, or any wear ridges which might cause damage to the timing belt. Make sure that the dowels are not

V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures 2B•7

12.9c Notch on the front of the crankshaft sprocket aligned with the arrow cast into

the oil pump housing

12.9b Rear camshaft sprocket timing

notch, aligned with the corresponding line

in the backplate

12.9a Front camshaft sprocket timing

mark, aligned with the corresponding line

in the backplate

13.7 Use a tool like this to hold the camshaft sprocket as the bolts are

undone

13.5 Ensure that the lower tensioner arm engages over the lug in the casing when

refitting

13.3 Remove the tensioner retaining bolt,

lift off the tensioner and remove the spring

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

worn and are not a loose fit in the camshaft or sprocket holes.

Refitting

10 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure

that the sprockets are fitted to their correct camshafts and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque.

Crankshaft sprocket

Removal

11 Remove the timing belt as described in

Section 12. 12 Slide the sprocket off the front of the crankshaft followed by the timing belt guide behind.

Inspection

13 Check the condition of the sprocket,

Refitting

14 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

14 Camshaft oil seals -

renewal

Note: The use of an oil seal extractor which screws into the seal inside circumference is preferable for this operation. These are available at most accessory shops and can often be hired from tool hire outlets. In the absence of this type of tool, an alternative (but less satisfactory) method of removal is described in the following procedure.

1 Remove the camshaft sprockets as described in the previous Section. 2 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the backplate from the front or rear cylinder head as required (see illustration). 3 The oil seals are now accessible for removal. Punch or drill two small holes opposite each other in the oil seal. Screw a self-tapping screw into each hole and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal. 4 Check that the housing is clean before

fitting the new seal. Lubricate the lips of the seal and the running faces of the camshaft with clean engine oil, then carefully locate the seal over the camshaft and drive it squarely into position using a tube or a socket. Take care not to turn over the lips of the seal as it is being fitted. Another method of fitting is to draw it squarely into position using the sprocket bolt and a distance piece. 5 With the seal fully inserted in its housing, refit the backplate, then refit the camshaft sprocket as described in the previous Section.

15 Camshaft and hydraulic

tappets - removal, inspection

and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the air cleaner assembly and air intake trunking as described in Chapter 4, Part D. 2 Remove the camshaft covers as described in Section 5. 3 Remove the cylinder head side covers as described in Section 6. 4 Remove the camshaft sprocket(s) as described in Section 13. 5 If working on the front camshaft, remove the distributor as described in Chapter 5. 6 If working on the rear camshaft, remove the power steering pump as described in Chapter

10. 7 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the

backplate from the front or rear cylinder head as required. 8 Undo the ten bolts securing the oil gallery to the camshaft carrier noting the locations of the two short bolts (see illustration). 9 Lift off the oil gallery and recover the small O-ring seal in the camshaft carrier (see

illustration). 10 If working on the front camshaft, undo the

two small camshaft carrier retaining bolts at each end. 11 Lift the camshaft carriers off the cylinder head (see illustration). 12 Carefully lift out the camshafts, marking or labelling them FRONT or REAR as applicable

(see illustration). 13 Withdraw the oil seal off the front of the

camshaft. 14 If working on the rear camshaft, remove the end plug from the cylinder head. 15 Obtain a compartmented box, and mark it inlet and exhaust for each cylinder (ie 1 INLET, 1 EXHAUST, 2 INLET, 2 EXHAUST etc). 16 Lift out the slippers, tappets and pushrods for each cylinder, in turn, and place the components in their respective compartments in the box (see illustration).

Inspection

17 Clean and inspect the various components removed, for signs of excessive wear. 18 Examine the camshaft bearing journals and lobes for damage or obvious wear. If evident, a new camshaft must be fitted, or one that has been renovated by a company

2B•8 V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures

15.12 Carefully lift out the camshafts15.11 Lift the camshaft carrier off the

cylinder head

15.9 Recover the small O-ring seal in the camshaft carrier

15.8 Undo the ten bolts securing the oil gallery to the camshaft carrier

14.2 Front cylinder head backplate retaining bolts (arrowed)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

specialising in exchange components. If the camshaft appears sound, measure the journal diameters using a micrometer (see

illustration). 19 The camshaft bearing bore diameters in

the cylinder head should be measured and checked against the tolerances specified. A gauge will be required for this but if not available, check for excessive movement between the camshaft journals and the bearings. Alternatively, the Plastigage method, described in Part C of this Chapter, for main and big-end bearing running clearance checks, can be used. If the bearings are found to be unacceptably worn, either a new camshaft or a new cylinder head is the only answer as the bearings are machined directly in the head. 20 It is seldom that the hydraulic tappets are badly worn in the cylinder head bores but again, if the tappets are scored, or the bores are found to be worn beyond an acceptable level, either the tappet(s) or the complete cylinder head must be renewed. If any of the tappets have been noisy in operation, or their internal condition is suspect, perform a tappet seating stroke check as described below. 21 If the contact surface of the cam lobes show signs of depression or grooving, note that they cannot be renovated by grinding as the hardened surface will be removed and the overall length of the tappet(s) will be reduced. The self-adjustment point of the tappet will be exceeded as a result, so that the valve adjustment will be affected and they will then

be noisy in operation. Therefore, renewal of the camshaft is the only remedy in this case. 22 Check the rocker arms for signs of scoring on their contact faces and for any visible signs of wear on the pushrods. Renew any that are noticeably worn or damaged.

Tappet seating stroke check

23 Carry out this check if any of the tappets have been noisy in operation, or their internal condition is suspect. 24 Using a small drill bit that will just fit through the hole in the end of the tappet, immerse the tappet in a small container of clean engine oil so that the tappet is submerged. Insert the drill bit through the hole in the tappet ball end and push the valve inside the tappet in and out several times, using a slow pumping action, to remove all air from the tappet (see illustrations). 25 Remove the tappet from the container and place it on the bench with the ball end uppermost. 26 Mount a dial gauge and test stand over the tappet with the dial gauge probe in contact with the tappet ball end. Zero the gauge. 27 Push the ball end down quickly by hand and note the reading on the dial gauge. This is the tappet seating stroke and, if it is outside the maximum figure given in the Specifications, renew the tappet. 28 After checking, the tappet must be drained of oil so as to be fitted dry on reassembly.

Caution: On reassembly, do not fit a tappet that is full of oil from the seating stroke check, otherwise there is a possibility of the valves being held open on initial cranking.

29 Turn the tappet upside down and, using the small drill bit, depress the internal valve to drain the oil from the tappet (see illustration). 30 Repeat the above procedure on any other suspect tappets.

Refitting

31 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in mind the following points:

(a) Fill the tappet bores to oil path level

before fitting the tappets and do not rotate them once in position (see illustration).

V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures 2B•9

15.18 Measure the camshaft journal diameters using a micrometer

15.16b . . . and hydraulic tappets15.16a Lift out the rocker arms . . .

15.31a Fill the tappet bores with oil before fitting the tappets

15.24a Using a small drill bit that will just fit through the hole in the end of the tappet . . .

15.29 Depress the internal tappet valve to drain the oil prior to installation

15.24b . . . immerse the tappet in oil and

push the valve inside in and out to remove

all the air

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

(b) Prime the tappet oil feeds in the cylinder

head with oil (see illustration).

camshaft carrier before refitting (see illustration).

(d) Use new gaskets on all joints and tighten

the retaining nuts and bolts to the specified torque where given. Tighten the oil gallery bolts in the sequence shown (see illustration).

(e) Refit all components removed for access

as described in the relevant Sections and Chapters of this manual.

16 Cylinder head -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the inlet manifold as described in Section 8. 2 Remove the camshaft and hydraulic tappets on the side concerned as described in Section 15. 3 Undo the flange bolts and remove the exhaust front pipes from the exhaust manifolds. Recover the flange gaskets. 4 Undo the bolts securing the coolant connecting pipe. Disconnect the temperature sensor wiring multiplug, move the wiring harness aside and remove the connecting pipe. Recover the sealing O-rings from the pipe. 5 If removing the front cylinder head,

disconnect the camshaft sensor wiring multiplug (where fitted). 6 If not already removed, remove the push rods from their locations and place them in a marked box to indicate their respective cylinders. 7 Progressively slacken the cylinder head retaining bolts a third of a turn at a time, in the sequence shown until all are slack, then remove the bolts (see illustration). 8 Lift the cylinder head off the locating dowels and remove it from the engine. If the head is stuck, it can be carefully levered up using a large screwdriver between the cylinder block and the protruding cylinder head flanges. Do not insert the screwdriver under the head-to-block mating face. Place the head on blocks on the bench to protect the valves. 9 Remove the cylinder head gasket from the block. 10 Prior to refitting, ensure that the cylinder block and head mating faces are thoroughly clean and dry, with all traces of old gasket removed. Clean the threads of the retaining bolts, and remove any oil, water and thread sealer from the bolt holes.

Refitting

11 Locate a new gasket over the dowels on the cylinder block. 12 Lower the cylinder head assembly onto the gasket, and refit the retaining bolts. Working in the sequence shown, tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque (see illustration 16.7). Note that the cylinder head bolt slackening and tightening sequence are the same. 13 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of removal but refer to the relevant Sections and Chapters of this manual for adjustment details.

17 Sump -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands.

3 Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter 1. 4 Remove the exhaust front pipe with

reference to Chapter 4, Part D. 5 Undo the bolts securing the longitudinal support member to the underbody beneath the engine, and remove the member. 6 Undo the six nuts and sixteen bolts securing the sump to the crankcase. 7 Withdraw the sump from the crankcase, tapping it from side to side with a hide or plastic mallet if it is stuck. Recover the sump gasket. 8 If the oil pick-up tube and strainer are to be removed, undo the two bolts securing the strainer bracket to the crankcase, and the two bolts securing the pick-up tube flange to the oil pump. 9 Remove the pick-up pipe and tube from the crankcase. Recover the O-ring from the pickup pipe flange. Remove the baffle plate from the cylinder block. 10 Clean the sump, and the mating faces of both the sump and crankcase thoroughly. 11 If removed, clean the pick-up pipe, and the filter gauze in the strainer.

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use a new sump gasket and O-ring seal on the pickup pipe flange and tighten the sump retaining nuts and bolts progressively to the specified torque. Fill the engine with oil as described in Chapter 1 on completion.

18 Oil cooler and filter head -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1.

2B•10 V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures

16.7 Cylinder head bolt slackening and tightening sequence

15.31d Oil gallery retaining bolt tightening sequence

15.31c Apply RTV sealant to the ends of the camshaft carrier (shown shaded)

before refitting

15.31b Prime the tappet oil feeds in the cylinder head with oil

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

H27532

H27533 H27534

2 Jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands. 3 Remove the right-hand front road wheel and the access panel under the wheelarch. 4 Place a jack with interposed block of wood under the sump and just take the weight of the engine. 5 Undo the two right-hand engine mounting retaining bolts. 6 Lower the jack slightly to provide access to the oil cooler and filter head assembly from under the wheelarch. 7 Undo the three bolts securing the assembly to the front of the engine. 8 Withdraw the assembly from the engine, and disconnect the oil pressure switch wiring and the two coolant hoses (see illustration). 9 Recover the double O-ring seal from the filter housing outlets on the engine (see

illustration). 10 With the assembly on the bench, undo the

centre bolt from the oil cooler and remove the cooler from the filter head. Recover the Orings.

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but lubricate the O-rings prior to fitting. Fill the cooling system and top-up the engine oil as described in Chapter 1, on completion.

19 Oil pump -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter 1. 2 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 12. 3 Remove the crankshaft sprocket and the timing belt tensioner as described in Section

13. 4 Remove the timing belt inner guide from the front of the crankshaft. 5 Unscrew the timing belt tensioner spring anchorage stud from the oil pump housing. 6 Remove the oil cooler and filter head as described in Section 18.

7 Support the engine from above using a crane and chains or sturdy slings attached to suitable anchorage points on the engine. 8 Remove the jack from under the sump (from the previous operation) then remove the sump and oil pick-up strainer as described in Section 17. 9 Undo the retaining bolt and remove the dipstick tube. Recover the O-ring. 10 Undo the two bolts from the oil feed tube and remove the tube. Recover the O-rings. 11 Undo the nine oil pump housing retaining bolts, noting the locations of the two longer bolts (see illustration). 12 Release the pump housing from the dowels and remove it from the engine. 13 Clean off all traces of sealant on the pump housing and cylinder block mating faces prior to reassembly.

Refitting

14 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Apply a bead of RTV sealant to the housing mating face, inside the line of bolt holes and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque. Use new O-rings on all components.

20 Crankshaft oil seals -

renewal

Front oil seal

1 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 12. 2 Withdraw the sprocket from the crankshaft together with the timing belt guide plate. 3 Remove the Woodruff key from the slot in the crankshaft. 4 Note the fitted depth of the oil seal in relation to the front of the housing as an aid to refitting. 5 Punch or drill two small holes opposite each other in the seal. Screw a self tapping screw into each, and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal. 6 Clean the seal location in the pump housing, and clean off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail.

7 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil and carefully locate the seal over the crankshaft and into the housing. 8 Using a tubular drift which bears on the hard outer edge of the seal, drive the seal into the housing to the previously noted depth.

9 Refit the Woodruff key to the crankshaft. 10 Refit the timing belt guide plate and

sprocket to the crankshaft. 11 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 12.

Rear oil seal

12 Remove the flywheel/driveplate as described in Section 22. 13 Punch or drill two small holes opposite each other in the seal. Screw a self tapping screw into each, and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal. 14 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place. 15 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil and carefully locate the seal on the end of the crankshaft. 16 Using a large tubular drift bearing on the hard outer edge of the seal, drive the seal into the housing until it is flush with the housing face. 17 Clean off any surplus oil then refit the flywheel/driveplate as described in Section 22.

21 Engine/transmission

mountings - inspection and

renewal

Refer to Part A, Section 18.

22 Flywheel/driveplate -

removal, inspection and refitting

Removal

1 With the engine removed from the car and separated from the transmission, or with the

V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures 2B•11

19.11 Oil pump housing location on the front of the engine

18.9 Recover the double O-ring seal from the filter housing outlets

18.8 Removing the oil cooler and filter head assembly

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

transmission removed as described in Chapter 7, remove the clutch assembly (manual transmission) as described in Chapter 6. 2 Undo the eight flywheel/driveplate retaining bolts. To prevent the flywheel turning, lock the ring gear teeth using a small strip of angle iron engaged in the teeth and against, or screwed into, a transmission-to-engine retaining bolt inserted into a vacant bolt hole.

3 Lift off the washer plate (automatic transmission), then withdraw the flywheel/ driveplate from the crankshaft.

Inspection

4 Inspect the starter ring gear on the flywheel or driveplate for wear or broken teeth. If evident, the ring gear should be renewed. This is a specialist operation and should be entrusted to a Rover dealer.

5 The clutch friction surface on the flywheel should be checked for grooving or cracks, the latter being caused by overheating. If these conditions are evident, renewal of the flywheel is necessary.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, tightening the bolts to the specified torque in a diagonal and progressive sequence.

2B•12 V6 engine - in-car engine repair procedures

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

4-cylinder engines

Cylinder head

Valve seat angle (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45º

Valve seat width (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 2.0 mm

Valves Inlet Exhaust

Valve stem diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.09 to 7.10 mm 7.07 to 7.09 mm

Valve head diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31.7 to 31.9 mm 29.2 to 29.4 mm

Valve stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 to 0.06 mm 0.06 to 0.07 mm

Valve spring free length:

“M” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.0 mm

“T” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.2 mm

Pistons and piston rings

Piston-to-cylinder bore clearance:

“M” series engines:

Top of skirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.08 to 0.10 mm

Bottom of skirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 to 0.05 mm

“T” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.01 to 0.03 mm

Piston ring end gap - installed:

“M” series engines:

Compression rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.50 mm

Oil control ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.50 mm

“T” series engines:

Top compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.35 mm

2nd compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.50 mm

Oil control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.50 mm

Piston ring-to-groove clearance:

Top compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.06 to 0.09 mm

2nd compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 to 0.07 mm

Chapter 2 Part C: Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

Crankshaft - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Crankshaft - refitting and main bearing running clearance check . . 21

Crankshaft (4-cylinder engine) - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Crankshaft (V6 engine) - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Cylinder block/crankcase - cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Cylinder head - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Cylinder head (4-cylinder engine) - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Cylinder head and rocker gear (V6 engine) - dismantling . . . . . . . . . 8

Cylinder head, rocker gear and valve assemblies - cleaning

and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Engine - initial start-up after overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Engine overhaul - dismantling sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Engine removal - methods and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Engine/transmission (4-cylinder engine) - removal, separation

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Engine/transmission (V6 engine) - removal, separation and refitting 5

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Main and big-end bearings - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Piston/connecting rod assemblies - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Piston/connecting rod assemblies - refitting and big-end bearing

running clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Piston/connecting rod assemblies (4-cylinder engine) - removal . . . 11

Piston/connecting rod assemblies (V6 engine) - removal . . . . . . . . . 12

Piston rings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

2C•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Cylinder block

Cylinder bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.456 to 84.469 mm

Maximum cylinder bore taper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm

Maximum cylinder bore ovality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15

Maximum gasket face distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 mm

Crankshaft and bearings

Main bearing journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54.005 to 54.026 mm

Main bearing journal-to-shell running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.03 to 0.070 mm

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.648 to 47.661 mm

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal-to-shell running clearance . . . . . . . 0.04 to 0.08 mm

Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.03 to 0.20 mm

Note: Refer to Part A of this Chapter for torque wrench settings.

V6 engines

Cylinder head

Valve seat angle (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45º

Valve seat width (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm maximum

Valves Inlet Exhaust

Valve stem diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.58 to 6.59 mm 6.55 to 6.58 mm

Valve stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.16 mm maximum 0.22 mm maximum

Cylinder block

Cylinder bore diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87.00 to 87.02 mm

Maximum cylinder bore taper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 mm

Maximum cylinder bore ovality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 mm

Maximum gasket face distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 mm

Pistons and piston rings

Piston-to-cylinder bore clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.08 mm

Piston ring end gap:

Top compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.35 mm maximum

2nd compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.50 mm maximum

Oil control ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.70 mm maximum

Piston ring-to-groove clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . No information available

Crankshaft and bearings

Main bearing journal-to-shell running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.24 to 0.048 mm

Main bearing journal taper and ovality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.010 mm maximum

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal-to-shell running clearance . . . . . . . 0.026 to 0.050 mm

Crankpin (big-end) bearing journal taper and ovality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.010 mm maximum

Crankshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 to 0.30 mm

Note: Refer to Part B of this Chapter for torque wrench settings.

2C•2 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 General information

How to use this Chapter

This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to engine/transmission removal and refitting, to those repair procedures requiring the removal of the engine/transmission from the vehicle, and to the overhaul of engine components. It includes only the Specifications relevant to those procedures. Refer to Parts A and B for additional Specifications, if required.

General information

The information ranges from advice concerning preparation for an overhaul and the purchase of replacement parts, to detailed step-by-step procedures covering removal

and installation of internal engine components and the inspection of parts.

The following Sections have been written based on the assumption that the engine has been removed from the vehicle. For information concerning in-vehicle engine repair, as well as removal and installation of the external components necessary for the overhaul, see Parts A and B of this Chapter and Section 6 of this Part.

When overhauling the engine, it is essential to establish first exactly what replacement parts are available. On some of the engines covered in this Chapter, components such as the piston rings are not available separately from the piston/connecting rod assemblies; pistons, gudgeon pins and valve guides may also not be available separately as may some under- or oversized components. In some cases, depending on the extent of engine wear, it would appear that the easiest and

most economically-sensible course of action is to replace a worn or damaged engine with an exchange unit.

2 Engine overhaul -

general information

It’s not always easy to determine when, or if, an engine should be completely overhauled, as a number of factors must be considered.

High mileage is not necessarily an indication that an overhaul is needed, while low mileage doesn’t preclude the need for an overhaul. Frequency of servicing is probably the most important consideration. An engine that’s had regular and frequent oil and filter changes, as well as other required maintenance, will most likely give many

thousands of miles of reliable service. Conversely, a neglected engine may require an overhaul very early in its life.

Excessive oil consumption is an indication that piston rings, valve seals and/or valve guides are in need of attention. Make sure that oil leaks aren’t responsible before deciding that the rings and/or guides are worn. Perform a cylinder compression check to determine the extent of the work required.

Loss of power, rough running, knocking or metallic engine noises, excessive valve train noise and high fuel consumption rates may also point to the need for an overhaul, especially if they’re all present at the same time. If a full service doesn’t remedy the situation, major mechanical work is the only solution.

An engine overhaul involves restoring all internal parts to the specification of a new engine. Note: Always check first what

replacement parts are available before planning any overhaul operation; refer to Section 1 of this Part. Rover dealers, or a good engine reconditioning specialist/ automotive parts supplier may be able to suggest alternatives which will enable you to overcome the lack of replacement parts.

During an overhaul, it is usual to renew the piston rings, and to rebore and/or hone the cylinder bores; where the rebore is done by an automotive machine shop, new oversize pistons and rings will also be installed - all these operations, of course, assume the availability of replacement parts. The main and big-end bearings are generally renewed and, if necessary, the crankshaft may be reground to restore the journals. Generally, the valves are serviced as well, since they’re usually in less-than-perfect condition at this point. While the engine is being overhauled, other components, such as the starter and alternator, can be renewed as well, or rebuilt, if the parts can be found. The end result should be an as-new engine that will give many trouble-free miles. Note: Critical cooling

system components such as the hoses, drivebelt, thermostat and water pump MUST be replaced with new parts when an engine is overhauled. The radiator should be checked carefully, to ensure that it isn’t clogged or leaking (see Chapter 3). Also, as a general rule, the oil pump should be renewed when an engine is rebuilt.

Before beginning the engine overhaul, read through the entire procedure to familiarise yourself with the scope and requirements of the job. Overhauling an engine isn’t difficult, but it is time-consuming. Plan on the vehicle being off the road for a minimum of two weeks, especially if parts must be taken to an automotive machine shop for repair or reconditioning. Check on availability of parts, and make sure that any necessary special tools and equipment are obtained in advance. Most work can be done with typical hand tools, although a number of precision measuring tools are required, for inspecting

parts to determine if they must be replaced. Often, an automotive machine shop will handle the inspection of parts, and will offer advice concerning reconditioning and replacement. Note: Always wait until the

engine has been completely dismantled, and all components, especially the cylinder block/crankcase, have been inspected, before deciding what service and repair operations must be performed by an automotive machine shop. Since the block’s condition will be the major factor to consider when determining whether to overhaul the original engine or buy a rebuilt one, never purchase parts or have machine work done on other components until the cylinder block/crankcase has been thoroughly inspected. As a general rule, time

is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it doesn’t pay to install worn or sub-standard parts.

As a final note, to ensure maximum life and minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine, everything must be assembled with care, in a spotlessly-clean environment.

3 Engine removal -

methods and precautions

If you’ve decided that an engine must be removed for overhaul or major repair work, several preliminary steps should be taken.

Locating a suitable place to work is extremely important. Adequate work space, along with storage space for the vehicle, will be needed. If a workshop or garage isn’t available, at the very least, a flat, level, clean work surface made of concrete or asphalt is required.

Cleaning the engine compartment and engine/transmission before beginning the removal procedure will help keep tools clean and organised.

An engine hoist or A-frame will be necessary. Make sure the equipment is rated in excess of the combined weight of the engine and transmission. Safety is of primary importance, considering the potential hazards involved in removing the engine/transmission from the vehicle.

If this is the first time you have removed an engine, a helper should ideally be available. Advice and aid from someone more experienced would also be helpful. There are many instances when one person cannot simultaneously perform all of the operations required when removing the engine/transmission from the vehicle.

Plan the operation ahead of time. Arrange for, or obtain, all of the tools and equipment you’ll need prior to beginning the job. Some of the equipment necessary to perform engine/transmission removal and installation safely and with relative ease, and which may have to be hired or borrowed, includes (in addition to the engine hoist) a heavy-duty

trolley jack, a strong pair of axle stands, some wooden blocks, and an engine dolly (a low, wheeled platform capable of taking the weight of the engine/transmission, so that it can be moved easily when on the ground). A complete set of spanners and sockets (as described in the front of this manual) will obviously be needed, together with plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for mopping-up spilled oil, coolant and fuel. If the hoist is to be hired, make sure that you arrange for it in advance, and perform all of the operations possible without it beforehand. This will save you money and time.

Plan for the vehicle to be out of use for quite a while. A machine shop will be required to perform some of the work which the do-ityourselfer can’t accomplish without special equipment. These establishments often have a busy schedule, so it would be a good idea to consult them before removing the engine, to accurately estimate the amount of time required to rebuild or repair components that may need work.

Always be extremely careful when removing and installing the engine/transmission. Serious injury can result from careless actions. By planning ahead and taking your time, the job (although a major task) can be accomplished successfully.

4 Engine/transmission

(4-cylinder engine) - removal,

separation and refitting

Note: The engine can be removed from the car only as a complete unit with the transmission; the two are then separated for overhaul. The engine/transmission are removed upwards and out from the top of engine compartment.

Removal

1 Extract the retaining clips and release the support struts from the bonnet. Tie the bonnet back in the fully-open position. 2 Drain the cooling system, the engine oil, and the transmission oil or fluid as described in Chapter 1. 3 Remove the complete air cleaner and intake trunking assembly, as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4. 4 Remove the battery as described in Chapter 5, then undo the three bolts and remove the battery tray. 5 Undo the three bolts and remove the air cleaner support bracket, located below the battery tray. 6 On cars with single-point fuel injection, undo the three ignition/fuel ECU mounting bracket bolts, and move the ECU and bracket aside. 7 Slacken the clips and remove the radiator top hose, then disconnect the expansion tank hose at the thermostat housing. On singlepoint injection models, disconnect the two heater outlet hoses at the inlet manifold.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2C•3

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

8 Disconnect the remaining vacuum hose at the inlet manifold. 9 Undo the bolt securing the engine rear tiebar support bracket to the inlet manifold (see

illustration). 10 Undo the two through-bolts securing the

engine rear tie-bar to the engine and body brackets, and recover the special forked nut (see illustration). Note that the forked end of the nut engages with a bracket projection to prevent the nut turning. 11 Withdraw the rear tie-bar from its brackets, noting that it is stamped with the word TOP on the upper face of the larger end, which must be refitted accordingly. 12 Slacken the clips and disconnect the radiator bottom hose at the radiator and main

coolant pipe, the bottom hose take-off at the expansion tank pipe, the two heater hoses at the heater matrix, and the heater outlet hose at the inlet manifold or throttle housing (see illustrations). On automatic transmission models, disconnect the two coolant hoses at the transmission oil cooler. 13 Place absorbent rags around the fuel filter outlet banjo union bolt on the left-hand side of the filter, then slowly unscrew the bleed screw in the centre of the bolt, or the bolt itself as applicable, to relieve the fuel system pressure. When the pressure is released, remove the bolt and recover the two copper washers. Tighten the bleed screw where fitted. 14 Release the clip and disconnect the fuel return hose from the pipe below the fuel filter.

Plug or tape over the disconnected fuel hoses and unions. 15 Disconnect the accelerator cable at the throttle end, as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4. 16 Undo the brake servo vacuum hose banjo union bolt at the inlet manifold, and recover the two copper washers. 17 On cars with single-point fuel injection, disconnect the wiring multiplug from the ignition/fuel ECU, and remove the relay from its holder behind the ECU location (see

illustration). 18 Separate the engine wiring harness from

the main wiring harness by disconnecting the large round wiring multiplug located behind the battery. Additionally, on cars with singlepoint fuel injection, disconnect the adjacent large flat multiplug, and on cars with multipoint fuel injection, the multiplugs at the rear right-hand side of the engine compartment

(see illustrations). 19 Disconnect the two sensing leads at the

battery clamps, noting their locations, and also the main positive lead to the starter motor at the battery clamp. 20 Remove the cover from the fuse and relay box on the left-hand side of the engine compartment, then lift off the cover over the fusible links. 21 Lift out the engine harness cable retaining clip, undo the cable retaining screw, and remove the cable from the fuse and relay box (see illustrations).

2C•4 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

4.18c Disconnect the appropriate multi-

plugs at the rear of the engine compartment

4.18b . . . and the adjacent flat multiplug4.18a Disconnect the large round wiring

multiplug (arrowed) . . .

4.17 Remove the relay behind the ignition/fuel ECU

4.12b . . . and the heater hoses at the heater matrix (arrowed)

4.12a Disconnect the radiator hose

(arrowed) at the main coolant pipe . . .

4.10 Remove the tie-bar through-bolt (A) and recover the forked nut (B)

4.9 Undo the bolt (arrowed) securing the

engine rear tie-bar support bracket to the

inlet manifold

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

22 Disconnect the HT and LT leads at the ignition coil. 23 Disconnect the single cable at the starter solenoid. 24 Undo the bolt and disconnect the earth lead on the side of the transmission, then slide up the rubber boot and disconnect the reversing light switch wires (see illustration). 25 On automatic transmission models, extract the spring clip and withdraw the steel and rubber washers securing the selector cable end to the transmission selector lever. Undo the outer cable retaining nut at the abutment bracket, release the inner and outer cables, and recover the inner cable spacer. 26 Disconnect the speedometer transducer cable at the wiring multiplug. 27 Check that all electrical connections between the engine and the car main wiring harness have been disconnected and moved clear. The engine wiring harness stays in situ, and is removed with the engine assembly. 28 Slacken the hose clips and disconnect the two power steering hoses at the fluid reservoir (see illustration). Plug the hoses and the outlets immediately to reduce fluid loss. 29 Undo the two power steering pipe support bracket bolts, and release the pipes from the brackets (see illustration). 30 On cars with a rear-mounted power steering pump, slacken the clip and disconnect the power steering fluid return hose from the pipe, then remove the pipe and hose assembly clear of the engine (see illustration).

31 Jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands. 32 Refer to Chapter 4 if necessary, and separate the exhaust front section at the manifold or turbocharger, and at the intermediate pipe flange joints. Remove the exhaust front section from the car. 33 On manual transmission models, extract the spring clip and withdraw the clevis pin securing the clutch slave cylinder pushrod to the release arm. Undo the two slave cylinder retaining bolts and move the cylinder aside. 34 On manual transmission models, undo the bolt in the centre of the transmission steady rod. Remove the dished washer, slide off the steady rod and remove the inner flat washer. Remove the spring clip to expose the

gearchange rod-to-gearchange shaft retaining roll pin. Using a parallel pin punch, tap out the roll pin and slide the gearchange rod rearwards off the shaft. 35 Undo the eight bolts and remove the longitudinal support member from beneath the engine (see illustration). 36 On cars with a front-mounted power steering pump, undo the pipe union and remove the fluid pipe from the rear of the pump. Plug the unions to prevent fluid loss. 37 Undo the nut securing the right-hand steering knuckle balljoint to the lower suspension arm, then release the balljoint from the arm using a universal balljoint separator tool or two-legged puller. 38 Pull the steering knuckle outwards, then

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2C•5

4.21c . . . and remove the cable from the fuse and relay box

4.21b . . . undo the cable retaining screw . . .

4.21a Lift out the engine harness cable retaining clip . . .

4.30 Disconnect the power steering fluid return hose (arrowed)

4.24 Disconnect the transmission earth lead (A) and the reversing light switch

wires (B)

4.29 Undo the power steering pipe support bracket bolts

4.28 Disconnect the two power steering hoses at the fluid reservoir

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

4.35 Undo the bolts and remove the

longitudinal support member (arrowed)

using a flat bar or large screwdriver, lever between the driveshaft inner constant velocity joint and the differential housing to release the joint. 39 Move the driveshaft clear, then repeat these operations on the left-hand driveshaft. 40 Attach a hoist to the engine using rope slings, or chains attached to brackets secured to the cylinder head. Adjust the ropes or chains so that the engine will hang at approximately 30º to the horizontal, with the timing belt end uppermost, when it is lifted out. 41 On automatic transmission models, undo the mounting bracket bolts and remove the engine lower tie-bar from under the front of the car, complete with mounting brackets. 42 Undo the right-hand engine mounting through-bolt, and recover the special nut. Note that the forked end of the nut plate locates over a stud on the body bracket. 43 Undo the two bolts securing the engine mounting to its mounting bracket, and remove the mounting (see illustration). 44 Undo the two bolts securing the air cleaner trunking support bracket to the front chassis member, and remove the bracket

(see illustration). 45 Undo the nut securing the front engine mounting to its transmission bracket (see illustration). 46 Undo the nut securing the rear engine

mounting to its transmission bracket. 47 Raise the engine slightly, then on cars with a rear-mounted power steering pump,

undo the power steering pipe union nut at the rear of the pump, and remove the pipe. Plug the unions to prevent loss of fluid. 48 Make a final check that everything connecting the engine and transmission to the car has been disconnected and moved well clear. 49 Carefully lift the power unit upwards, whilst moving and twisting it slightly to clear the various projections (see illustration). When the unit has been raised sufficiently, draw the hoist forwards to bring the engine unit over the front body panel, then lower it to the floor.

Separation - manual transmission models

50 With the engine/transmission removed from the car, undo the starter motor retaining bolts, and remove the unit from the clutch housing. 51 Undo the three bolts and remove the engine snubber bracket from the transmission adaptor plate beneath the engine sump. 52 Undo the two bolts securing the front engine mounting bracket to the transmission, and remove the bracket. 53 Undo the bolts securing the rear engine mounting bracket to the transmission, noting the location of the crankshaft sensor bracket. Move the sensor aside and remove the bracket. 54 Undo all the remaining bolts securing the transmission to the engine. 55 With the transmission well supported, release the locating dowels and draw the unit squarely away from the engine.

Separation - automatic transmission models

56 With the engine/transmission removed from the car, undo the starter motor retaining bolts and remove the unit from the converter housing. 57 Refer to Chapter 7, Part B and release the kickdown cable from the engine. 58 Turn the crankshaft as necessary, using a socket or spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt, until one of the torque converter retaining bolts becomes accessible through the starter motor aperture. Undo the bolt, turn the

crankshaft and remove the remaining two bolts in the same way. 59 Undo the two bolts securing the front engine mounting bracket to the transmission, and remove the bracket. 60 Undo the bolts securing the rear engine mounting bracket to the transmission, noting the location of the crankshaft sensor bracket. Move the sensor aside and remove the bracket. 61 Undo the remaining bolts securing the transmission to the engine. 62 With the transmission well supported, release the locating dowels and draw the unit squarely away from the engine. Ensure that the torque converter stays in place on the transmission.

Attachment - all models

63 Attachment is the straightforward reversal of the separation sequence, but where applicable, tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque (Chapter 2, Part A). On manual transmission models, smear the gearbox mainshaft and release bearing face with molybdenum disulphide grease before attachment.

Refitting

64 Refitting is a straightforward reversal of removal, bearing in mind the following points:

(a) Refit all the engine mounting bolts

loosely, then tighten them so as not to place any under strain. Ensure that the right-hand mounting bolt is positioned centrally within the elongated slot in the body bracket.

(b) Refill the cooling system as described in

Chapter 1.

(d) Fill the engine with oil as described in

Chapter 1.

(e) Refill and bleed the power steering

system as described in Chapter 10.

(f) Adjust the accelerator cable as described

in the relevant Part of Chapter 4, and where applicable, the automatic transmission kickdown cable as described in Chapter 7 Part B.

2C•6 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

4.49 Removing the engine and transmission from the car

4.45 Undo the nut securing the front engine mounting

4.44 Undo the bolts (arrowed) and remove the air cleaner trunking support bracket

4.43 Remove the right-hand engine mounting

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

5 Engine/transmission

(V6 engine) - removal,

separation and refitting

Removal

5 Refer to Chapter 3 and remove the radiator. 6 Disconnect the accelerator cable at the

throttle end (Chapter 4 Part D). Release the cable from its support clips and move it clear.

7 Disconnect the HT lead at the ignition coil. 8 Undo the two through-bolts securing the

engine rear tie-bar to the engine and body brackets, and recover the special forked nut. Note that the forked end of the nut engages with a bracket projection to prevent the nut turning. Withdraw the tie-bar from its brackets. 9 Undo the brake servo vacuum hose banjo union bolt at the inlet manifold, and recover the two copper washers. 10 Slacken the clips and disconnect the coolant hoses at the thermostat housing (see illustration). Disconnect the two heater hoses from their connections on the side of the engine. Disconnect any remaining coolant hoses from the engine and move them clear. 11 Undo the bolt and disconnect the earth lead on the front engine side cover. 12 Disconnect the multiplugs and release the harness from the clips on and around the dipstick tube.

13 Remove the cover from the fuse and relay box on the left-hand side of the engine compartment, then lift off the cover over the fusible links. 14 Lift out the engine harness cable retaining clip, undo the cable retaining screw, and remove the cable from the fuse and relay box

(see illustrations). 15 Disconnect the two engine wiring harness

wiring multiplugs located in a bracket below the battery tray. 16 Disconnect the battery lead at the starter motor. 17 Disconnect the engine earth lead on the transmission casing. 18 Check that all the vacuum hoses at the pipe cluster are numbered with corresponding numbers on their respective pipe stubs. Mark any as necessary, then disconnect all the hoses from the pipe cluster stubs. 19 Disconnect the cruise control vacuum hose and release the hose from the engine clips. 20 Check that all remaining vacuum hoses likely to impede removal of the engine have been removed. 21 Disconnect the hose at the charcoal canister (where fitted). 22 Disconnect the hose at the diverter valve (where fitted). 23 Place absorbent rags around the fuel filter outlet banjo union bolt on the left-hand side of the filter, then slowly unscrew the bleed screw in the centre of the bolt, to relieve the fuel

system pressure. When the pressure is released, remove the bolt and recover the two copper washers. Tighten the bleed screw where fitted. 24 Release the clip and disconnect the fuel return hose from the pipe below the fuel filter (see illustration). Plug or tape over the disconnected fuel hoses and unions. 25 Separate the engine wiring harness from the main wiring harness by disconnecting the three large round wiring multiplugs located at the rear right-hand side of the engine compartment (see illustration). Release the harness from the support bracket and move it clear. 26 Wipe clean the area around the pipe and hose unions on the top of the power steering pump. Place absorbent rags around the unions. 27 Undo the two bolts securing the high pressure pipe connector, lift off the connector and recover the O-ring. 28 Slacken the hose clip, then disconnect the return hose from the pump. Plug or tape over the disconnected unions to prevent dirt entry. 29 Release the hoses from the support brackets and move them clear. 30 On cars equipped with air conditioning, remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described in Chapter 1, then remove the compressor from the engine as described in Chapter 3. Don’t disconnect any of the refrigerant pipes, just release the mountings. Move the compressor to one side.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2C•7

5.14b . . . undo the screw, and remove the cable from the fuse and relay box

5.14a Lift out the engine harness cable retaining clip . . .

5.10 Slacken the clips and disconnect the coolant hoses at the thermostat housing

5.25 Disconnect the three wiring

multiplugs at the rear of the engine

compartment

5.24 Disconnect the fuel return hose from the pipe below the fuel filter

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

31 Undo the three expansion tank retaining bolts and move the expansion tank to one side. 32 Jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands. Remove the front roadwheels. 33 Undo the bolts and remove the access panel under the right-hand wheelarch and the undertray from beneath the wheelarch. 34 Undo the flange bolts and separate the exhaust front pipes from the manifolds. Collect the gaskets. 35 Remove the engine oil cooler and filter head assembly as described in Part B, Section 18. 36 Undo the retaining bolt and remove the speedometer transducer assembly from the rear of the transmission. Move the assembly clear. 37 Undo and remove the nut from the rear engine mounting. 38 Undo the nut securing the right-hand steering knuckle balljoint to the lower suspension arm, then release the balljoint from the arm using a universal balljoint separator tool or two-legged puller. 39 Pull the steering knuckle outwards, then using a flat bar or large screwdriver, lever between the driveshaft and intermediate bearing assembly to release the joint. 40 Move the driveshaft clear, then repeat these operations on the left-hand driveshaft, but release it from the differential housing. 41 Attach a hoist using chains attached to the engine and transmission lifting eyes. Raise the hoist to just take the weight of the engine. 42 Undo the eight bolts and remove the longitudinal support member from beneath the engine. 43 On manual transmission models, undo the two slave cylinder retaining bolts, collect the pushrod and move the cylinder aside. 44 On manual transmission models, undo the bolt in the centre of the transmission steady rod. Remove the dished washer, slide off the steady rod and remove the inner flat washer. Remove the spring clip to expose the gearchange rod-to-gearchange shaft retaining roll pin. Using a parallel pin punch, tap out the roll pin and slide the gearchange rod rearwards off the shaft. 45 On automatic transmission models, refer to Chapter 7, Part B and disconnect the selector cable at the transmission end. 46 Undo the front engine mounting retaining nut, then undo the three bolts and remove the mounting bracket from the engine. 47 Undo the right-hand engine mounting through-bolt, and recover the special nut. Note that the forked end of the nut plate locates over a stud on the body bracket. 48 Undo the two bolts securing the righthand engine mounting to the engine, and remove the mounting. 49 Check that all electrical connections between the engine and the car main wiring harness have been disconnected and moved clear. The engine wiring harness stays in situ, and is removed with the engine assembly.

50 Make a final check that everything connecting the engine and transmission to the car has been disconnected and moved well clear. 51 Support the engine on a jack with interposed block of wood positioned under the sump. take the weight of the engine/transmission on the jack so that the hoist can be lowered slightly. Reposition the lifting chains so that the engine will adopt approximately a 30º angle to the horizontal as it is lifted out, with the timing belt end uppermost. 52 Carefully lift the power unit upwards, whilst moving and twisting it slightly to clear the various projections (see illustration). When the unit has been raised sufficiently, draw the hoist forwards to bring the assembly over the front body panel, then lower it to the floor.

Separation - manual transmission models

53 With the engine/transmission removed from the car, undo the starter motor retaining bolts, and remove the unit from the clutch housing. 54 Undo the bolts and remove the engine snubber bracket from the transmission adaptor plate beneath the engine sump. 55 Undo the bolts securing the rear engine mounting bracket to the transmission, and remove the bracket. 56 Undo all the remaining bolts securing the transmission to the engine. 57 With the transmission well supported, release the locating dowels and draw the unit squarely away from the engine.

Separation - automatic transmission models

58 With the engine/transmission removed from the car, undo the starter motor retaining bolts and remove the unit from the converter housing. 59 Refer to Chapter 7, Part B and release the kickdown cable from the engine. 60 Turn the crankshaft as necessary, using a socket or spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt, until one of the torque converter retaining bolts becomes accessible through the opening on the lower face of the torque

converter housing. Undo the bolt, then turn the crankshaft and remove the remaining bolts in the same way. 61 Undo the bolts securing the rear engine mounting bracket to the transmission, and remove the bracket. 62 Undo the remaining bolts securing the transmission to the engine. 63 With the transmission well supported, release the locating dowels and draw the unit squarely away from the engine. Ensure that the torque converter stays in place on the transmission.

Attachment - all models

64 Attachment is the straightforward reversal of the separation sequence, but where applicable, tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque (Chapter 2, Part A). On manual transmission models, smear the gearbox mainshaft and release bearing face with molybdenum disulphide grease before attachment.

Refitting

65 Refitting is a straightforward reversal of removal, bearing in mind the following points:

(a) Refit all the engine mounting bolts

loosely, then tighten them so as not to place any under strain. Ensure that the right-hand mounting bolt is positioned centrally within the elongated slot in the body bracket.

(b) Refill the cooling system as described in

Chapter 1.

(d) Fill the engine with oil as described in

Chapter 1.

(e) Refill and bleed the power steering

system as described in Chapter 10.

(f) Adjust the accelerator cable as described

in Chapter 4, Part D and where applicable, the automatic transmission kickdown cable as described in Chapter 7 Part B.

6 Engine overhaul -

dismantling sequence

1 The engine dismantling and reassembly tasks are made easier if the engine is mounted on a portable engine stand which can be hired. 2 If a stand is not available, it is possible to dismantle the engine with it supported on a strong workbench or on the floor. Be careful not to tip or drop the engine when working without a stand. 3 If a reconditioned engine is to be fitted, all external components of the original engine must be removed in order to transfer them to the replacement unit (as they will if you are doing a complete engine rebuild). These components include the following, according to engine type.

2C•8 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

5.52 Removing the engine and transmission from the car

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

(a) Alternator and mounting brackets. (b) Power steering pump and air conditioning

compressor. (c) Distributor, HT leads and spark plugs. (d) Thermostat and housing. (e) Fuel injection system components. (f) Inlet and exhaust manifolds and

turbocharger. (g) Oil filter and housing. (h) Engine mountings. (i) Flywheel/driveplate. (j) Water pump. (k) All associated pipes, hoses and brackets. Note: When removing the external components from the engine, pay close attention to details that may be helpful or important during refitting. Note the fitting positions of gaskets, seals, washers, bolts and other small items.

4 If you are obtaining a short motor (which consists of the engine cylinder block, crankshaft, pistons and connecting rods all assembled), the cylinder head(s), sump, oil pump and timing belt will have to be removed also. 5 If a complete overhaul is planned, the engine can be dismantled and the internal components removed in the following order.

(a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds. (b) Timing belt, tensioner and sprockets. (c) Cylinder head(s). (d) Flywheel/driveplate. (e) Sump. (f) Oil pump.

(g) Pistons (with connecting rods). (h) Crankshaft.

6 Before starting the dismantling and overhaul procedures, make sure that you have all of the correct tools for the jobs to tackled. Refer to the introductory pages at the start of this manual for further information.

7 Cylinder head (4-cylinder

engine) - dismantling

Note: New and reconditioned cylinder heads are often available from the manufacturers, and from engine overhaul specialists. Due to the fact that some specialist tools are required for the dismantling and inspection procedures, and new components may not be readily available, it may be more practical and economical for the home mechanic to purchase a reconditioned head, rather than to dismantle, inspect and recondition the original head.

1 With the cylinder head on the bench, remove the camshafts and tappets, thermostat housing, inlet and exhaust manifolds, and the spark plugs, referring to the applicable Sections and Chapters of this manual as necessary. 2 To remove the valves, compress each spring in turn with a universal valve spring compressor, until the two retaining collets can be removed (see illustration).

3 Release the compressor, and lift off the spring top cup, valve spring, oil seal, valve spring seat and the valve (see illustrations). 4 It is essential that the valves are kept in their correct order, unless they are so badly worn or burnt that they are to be renewed. If they are going to be refitted, place them in their correct sequence, along with the camshaft tappets removed previously. Also keep the valve springs, cups, seats and collets in the same order.

8 Cylinder head and rocker

gear (V6 engine) - dismantling

Note: Refer to the introductory note concerning reconditioned cylinder heads at the beginning of Section 7.

1 With the cylinder head on the bench, remove the camshafts and tappets, the exhaust manifold, and the spark plugs, referring to the applicable Sections and Chapters of this manual as necessary. 2 If working on the front cylinder head, undo the two bolts and remove the crank/angle sensor (where fitted) (see illustration). 3 Unscrew the two blanking plugs from the cylinder head and collect the sealing washers. 4 Screw a cylinder head bolt into the now exposed transmission end of the rocker shaft and pull the shaft out of the cylinder head. 5 As the shaft is removed, collect the rocker

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2C•9

7.3b . . . valve spring . . .7.3a Release the compressor, and lift off

the spring top cup . . .

7.2 Compress the valve springs with a universal valve spring compressor

7.3e . . . and the valve7.3d . . . spring seat . . .7.3c . . . oil seal . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

arm spacer springs and the rocker arms, and place them in their appropriate compartments of the marked box that has all the hydraulic tappets and slippers removed previously. Alternatively use labelled plastic bags. 6 Undo the eight bolts securing the guide plates and lift the guide plates off their locating dowels. 7 To remove the valves, compress each spring in turn with a universal valve spring compressor, until the two retaining collets can be removed. 8 Release the compressor, and lift off the spring top cup, valve spring(s), oil seal, valve spring seat and the valve. 9 It is essential that the valves are kept in their correct order, unless they are so badly worn or burnt that they are to be renewed. If they are going to be refitted, place them in

their correct sequence, along with the tappets and other parts removed previously. Also keep the valve springs, cups, seats and collets in the same order.

9 Cylinder head, rocker gear

and valve assemblies -

cleaning and inspection

Note: Always check first what replacement parts are available before planning any overhaul operation. A Rover dealer, or a good engine reconditioning specialist/automotive parts supplier, may be able to suggest alternatives which will enable you to overcome the lack of replacement parts.

1 Thorough cleaning of the cylinder head and valve components, followed by a detailed

inspection, will enable you to decide how much valve service work must be carried out during the engine overhaul. Note: If the

engine has been severely overheated, it is best to assume that the cylinder head is warped, and to check carefully for signs of this.

Cleaning

2 Scrape away all traces of old gasket material and sealing compound from the cylinder head. 3 Scrape away the carbon from the combustion chambers and ports, then wash the cylinder head thoroughly with paraffin or solvent. 4 Scrape off any heavy carbon deposits that may have formed on the valves, then use a power-operated wire brush to remove deposits from the valve heads and stems.

Inspection

Note: Be sure to perform all the following inspection procedures before concluding that the services of a machine shop or engine overhaul specialist are required. Make a list of all items that require attention.

Cylinder head

5 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks,

evidence of coolant leakage, and damage. If cracks are found, a new cylinder head should be obtained. 6 Use a straight edge and feeler blade to check that the head gasket surface is not distorted. If it is, it may be possible to resurface it. 7 Examine the valve seats in each of the combustion chambers. If they are severely pitted, cracked or burned, then they will need to be renewed or re-cut by an engine overhaul specialist. If they are only slightly pitted, this can be removed by grinding-in the valve heads and seats with fine valve-grinding compound, as described below. 8 If the valve guides are worn, indicated by a side-to-side motion of the valve, new guides must be fitted. Measure the diameter of the existing valve stems (see below) and the bore of the guides, then calculate the clearance, and compare the result with the specified value; if the clearance is excessive, renew the valves or guides as necessary. 9 The renewal of valve guides is best carried out by an engine overhaul specialist. 10 If the valve seats are to be re-cut, this must be done only after the guides have been renewed.

Valves

11 Examine the head of each valve for

pitting, burning, cracks and general wear, and check the valve stem for scoring and wear ridges. Rotate the valve, and check for any obvious indication that it is bent. Look for pits and excessive wear on the tip of each valve stem. Renew any valve that shows any such signs of wear or damage. 12 If the valve appears satisfactory at this stage, measure the valve stem diameter at

2C•10 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

8.2 V6 engine cylinder head and rocker gear components

1 Exhaust manifold heat

shield bolt

2 Exhaust manifold heat

shield 3 Manifold nut 4 Exhaust manifold 5 Gasket 6 Crank/angle sensor bolts 7 Crank/angle sensor 8 Blanking plug and seal

9 Bolt for rocker shaft

removal 10 Rocker shaft 11 Spacer springs 12 Rocker arm 13 Guide plate bolts 14 Guide plates 16 Collets 18 Spring top cups 19 Valve springs 20 Valves

22 Oil seal 23 Spring seats 24 Blanking plugs 25 Oil restrictor 26 O-ring 27 Oil plug 28 O-ring 29 Blanking plugs 30 Spring 31 Relief valve

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

several points, using a micrometer (see illustration). Any significant difference in the readings obtained indicates wear of the valve stem. Should any of these conditions be apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed. 13 If the valves are in satisfactory condition, they should be ground (lapped) into their respective seats, to ensure a smooth gas-tight seal. If the seat is only lightly pitted, or if it has been re-cut, fine grinding compound only should be used to produce the required finish. Coarse valve-grinding compound should not be used unless a seat is badly burned or deeply pitted; if this is the case, the cylinder head and valves should be inspected by an expert, to decide whether seat re-cutting, or even the renewal of the valve or seat insert, is required. 14 Valve grinding is carried out as follows. Place the cylinder head upside-down on a bench, with a block of wood at each end to give clearance for the valve stems. 15 Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade of) valve-grinding compound on the seat face, and press a suction grinding tool onto the valve head. With a semi-rotary action, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute the grinding compound.

16 If coarse grinding compound is being used, work only until a dull, matt even surface is produced on both the valve seat and the valve, then wipe off the used compound, and repeat the process with fine compound. When a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt finish is produced on both the valve and seat, the grinding operation is complete. Do not grind in the valves any further than absolutely necessary, or the seat will be prematurely sunk into the cylinder head. 17 When all the valves have been ground-in, carefully wash off all traces of grinding compound, using paraffin or solvent, before reassembly of the cylinder head.

Valve components and rocker gear

18 Examine the valve springs for signs of

damage and discolouration, and also measure

their free length by comparing each of the existing springs with a new component. 19 Stand each spring on a flat surface, and check it for squareness. If any of the springs are damaged, distorted, or have lost their tension, obtain a complete set of new springs. 20 Check the spring upper seats and collets for obvious wear and cracks. Any questionable parts should be renewed, as extensive damage will occur if they fail during engine operation. Any damaged or excessively-worn parts must be renewed; the valve spring lower seat/stem oil seals must be renewed as a matter of course whenever they are disturbed. 21 Check the rocker shaft on V6 engines for straightness and for any obvious sign of scoring where the rockers contact. Similarly check the rocker bore and the fit of the rocker on the shaft. Renew any suspect parts.

10 Cylinder head -

reassembly

1 Before reassembling the cylinder head, first ensure that it is perfectly clean and no traces of grinding paste are left in the head or on the valves and guides. Use compressed air, if available, to blow out all the oil holes and passages. 2 Commence reassembly of the cylinder head by lubricating the valve stems and guides with clean engine oil. 3 With the valves and valve seats prepared, and with the valves in their correct order, commence reassembly, starting with the first valve of No 1 cylinder as follows. 4 Place the valve spring seat in position, then fit a new oil seal over the valve guide, pushing it fully into position. 5 Lubricate the valve stem with engine oil, then insert the valve into its guide. 6 Fit the valve spring(s), and place the top cup over the spring and valve. 7 Using the compressor tool, compress the valve spring until the two collets can be slid into position. Release the compressor carefully, in order not to displace the collets. 8 Refit the remaining valves in the same way. When they are all fitted, tap the end of each

valve stem with a plastic mallet to settle the components.

11 Piston/connecting rod

assemblies (4-cylinder engine) - removal

1 Remove the cylinder head, the sump, and the oil pick-up pipe as described in Part A of this Chapter. 2 Turn the crankshaft by means of the pulley bolt, until No 1 and No 4 pistons are at the bottom of their stroke. 3 Using a knife or scraper, clean the carbon ridge from the top of the cylinder bore, to facilitate removal of the piston. 4 Mark the No 1 cylinder connecting rod and cap on their sides, using a centre-punch and hammer, to indicate the cylinder the assembly is fitted to, and also the fitted relationship of the cap to the rod. Note: Any markings that may

appear on the rod and cap are often cylinder bore size codes and not necessarily the position of the assembly in the engine. Always make your own marks to avoid confusion.

5 Undo the big-end cap nuts on No 1 connecting rod, then remove the cap, complete with the lower bearing shell (see illustration). If the cap is difficult to remove, tap it from side to side with a plastic mallet. 6 Push the piston/connecting rod upwards with the aid of the wooden handle of a hammer or similar tool, then withdraw the assembly from the top of the cylinder bore

(see illustration). 7 Refit the bearing cap and shell to the

connecting rod after removal. 8 Repeat paragraphs 3 to 7 for No 4 connecting rod. 9 Turn the crankshaft back through half a turn, until No 2 and No 3 pistons are at the bottom of their stroke. 10 Repeat paragraphs 3 to 7 for No 2 and No 3 connecting rods.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2C•11

11.6 Removing the piston and connecting rod assembly

11.5 Removing the connecting rod cap and big-end bearing shell

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

9.12 Measuring the valve stem diameter

A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease the grinding operation.

12 Piston/connecting rod

assemblies (V6 engine) -

removal

The procedure is the same as described in the previous Section for 4-cylinder engines, but turn the crankshaft as necessary until each pair of pistons are at the bottom of their stroke and their connecting rod caps are accessible. On later engines it will be necessary to remove the oil baffle retaining bolts and remove the baffle for access to the crankshaft components.

13 Crankshaft (4-cylinder

engine) - removal

Note: The crankshaft can be removed only after the engine has been removed from the vehicle. It is assumed that the transmission, flywheel/driveplate, adaptor plate, timing belt, cylinder head, sump, oil pump pickup/strainer, oil pump, and piston/connecting rod assemblies, have already been removed.

1 Before the crankshaft is removed, check the endfloat. Mount a DTI (Dial Test Indicator, or dial gauge) with the stem in line with the crankshaft and just touching the crankshaft. 2 Push the crankshaft fully away from the gauge, and zero it. Next, lever the crankshaft towards the gauge as far as possible, and check the reading obtained. The distance that

the crankshaft moved is its endfloat; if it is greater than specified, check the crankshaft thrust surfaces for wear. If no wear is evident, new thrustwashers should correct the endfloat. 3 Feeler gauges can be used if no dial gauge is available. Lever or push the crankshaft all the way towards the right-hand end of the engine. Slip feeler gauges between the crankshaft and the main bearing incorporating the thrustwashers to determine the clearance

(see illustration). 4 Withdraw the crankcase breather tube

elbow from the outside of the cylinder block

(see illustration). 5 From within the crankcase, remove the crankcase breather extension tube (see illustration). To do this, move the tube from

side to side to release the sealing compound, then tap it out using a dowel rod inserted through the elbow aperture. 6 Note that the main bearing caps have their numbers cast on the face of each cap, and in addition, Nos 2, 3 and 4 have arrows indicating their fitted direction (see

illustration). 7 Undo the main bearing cap retaining bolts,

one turn at a time, then when all are slack, remove the bolts. 8 Lift away each main bearing cap and the bottom half of each bearing shell, taking care to keep the bearing shell with the right cap. If the caps are tight, tap them on their sides with a plastic mallet to release them from the locating dowels.

9 When removing the centre main bearing cap, note the bottom semi-circular halves of the thrustwashers, one located on each side of the cap. Lay them, with the centre bearing cap, along the correct side. 10 Lift out the crankshaft, followed by the bearing shell upper halves and the thrustwashers. Keep the bearing shells and thrustwashers with their correct caps.

14 Crankshaft (V6 engine) -

removal

Note: The crankshaft can be removed only after the engine has been removed from the vehicle. It is assumed that the transmission, flywheel/driveplate, rear oil seal carrier, timing belt, cylinder head, sump, oil pump pickup/strainer, oil pump, and piston/connecting rod assemblies, have already been removed.

1 Before removing the crankshaft, check the endfloat as described in the previous Section. 2 Where fitted, undo the bolts and remove the oil baffle from the bottom of the crankcase. Undo the eight oil gallery retaining bolts and lift the oil gallery off the main bearing caps. Collect the four O-rings from the base of the gallery (see illustration). 3 Using a hammer and centre punch, mark the main bearing caps, 1 to 4 and make a mark to indicate their fitted direction in the crankcase. 4 Undo the main bearing cap retaining bolts, two on the bottom and two on the side, one turn at a time; when all are slack, remove the bolts. 5 Screw in two oil gallery bolts into each main bearing cap and pull up on the bolts to withdraw the caps from their locations (see illustration). Lift away each main bearing cap and the bottom half of each bearing shell, taking care to keep the bearing shell with the right cap. Remove the oil gallery bolts after removing the caps. 6 Lift out the crankshaft, followed by the bearing shell upper halves and the two thrustwashers from the No 4 journal location. Keep the bearing shells and thrustwashers with their correct caps.

15 Cylinder block/crankcase -

cleaning and inspection

Note: Always check first what replacement parts are available before planning any overhaul operation. A Rover dealer, or a good engine reconditioning specialist/automotive parts supplier may be able to suggest alternatives which will enable you to overcome the lack of replacement parts.

Cleaning

1 Prior to cleaning, remove all external components and senders, and any gallery plugs or caps that may be fitted.

2C•12 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

13.6 Main bearing cap identification number and direction arrow

13.5 Remove the crankcase breather tube extension tube

13.4 Withdraw the crankcase breather tube elbow

13.3 Checking crankshaft endfloat using feeler gauges

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

2 If any of the castings are extremely dirty, all should be steam-cleaned. 3 After the castings are returned from steamcleaning, clean all oil holes and oil galleries one more time. Flush all internal passages with warm water until the water runs clear, then dry thoroughly, and apply a light film of oil to all machined surfaces, to prevent rusting. If you have access to compressed air, use it to speed the drying process, and to blow out all the oil holes and galleries.

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air!

4 If the castings are not very dirty, you can do an adequate cleaning job with hot soapy water (as hot as you can stand!) and a stiff brush. Take plenty of time, and do a thorough job. Regardless of the cleaning method used, be sure to clean all oil holes and galleries very thoroughly, and to dry all components completely; protect the machined surfaces as described above, to prevent rusting. 5 All threaded holes must be clean and dry,

to ensure accurate torque readings during reassembly; now is also a good time to clean and check the threads of all principal bolts. 6 When all inspection and repair procedures are complete (see below) and the block is ready for reassembly, refit the main bearing caps, and tighten the bolts finger-tight. 7 If the engine is not going to be reassembled right away, cover it with a large plastic bag to keep it clean; protect the machined surfaces as described above, to prevent rusting.

Inspection

8 Visually check the castings for cracks and corrosion. Look for stripped threads in the threaded holes. If there has been any history of internal coolant leakage, it may be worthwhile having an engine overhaul specialist check the cylinder block/crankcase for cracks with special equipment. If defects are found, have them repaired, if possible, or renew the assembly. 9 Check each cylinder bore for scuffing and scoring. 10 Noting that the cylinder bores must be

measured with all the crankshaft main bearing caps bolted in place (without the crankshaft and bearing shells), to the specified torque wrench settings, measure the diameter of each cylinder at the top (just under the ridge area), centre and bottom of the cylinder bore, parallel to the crankshaft axis. Next, measure each cylinder’s diameter at the same three locations across the crankshaft axis. Note the measurements obtained. 11 Measure the piston diameter at rightangles to the gudgeon pin axis, just above the bottom of the skirt; again, note the results. 12 If it is wished to obtain the piston-to-bore clearance, measure the bore and piston skirt as described above, and subtract the skirt diameter from the bore measurement. If the precision measuring tools shown are not available, the condition of the pistons and bores can be assessed, though not quite as accurately, by using feeler gauges as follows. Select a feeler gauge of thickness equal to the specified piston-to-bore clearance, and slip it into the cylinder along with the matching piston. The piston must be positioned exactly as it normally would be. The feeler gauge must be between the piston and cylinder on one of the thrust faces (at right-angles to the gudgeon pin bore). The piston should slip through the cylinder (with the feeler gauge in place) with moderate pressure; if it falls through or slides through easily, the clearance is excessive, and a new piston will be required. If the piston binds at the lower end of the cylinder, and is loose toward the top, the cylinder is tapered. If tight spots are encountered as the piston/feeler gauge is rotated in the cylinder, the cylinder is out-of-round (oval). 13 Repeat these procedures for the remaining pistons and cylinder bores. 14 Compare the results with the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter; if any measurement is beyond the dimensions specified for that class, or if any bore measurement is significantly different from the others (indicating that the bore is tapered or oval), the piston or bore is excessively-worn.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2C•13

14.5 Using oil gallery bolts to withdraw the main bearing caps

14.2 Main bearing, oil gallery and related components on V6 engines

1 Oil baffle retaining bolt 2 Oil baffle 3 Pick-up/strainer retaining

bolt

4 Oil pump pick-up/strainer

5 O-ring 6 Main bearing/oil gallery bolt 7 Main bearing/oil gallery bolt 8 Pipe elbow bolt 9 Oil pipe elbow

10 O-ring 11 Oil gallery 12 O-ring 13 Main bearing shell

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

15 If any of the cylinder bores are badly scuffed or scored, or if they are excessivelyworn, out-of-round or tapered, the usual course of action would be to have the cylinder block/crankcase rebored, and to fit new, oversized, pistons on reassembly. See a dealer or engine reconditioning specialist for advice. 16 If the bores are in reasonably good condition and not excessively-worn, then it may only be necessary to renew the piston rings. 17 If this is the case, the bores should be honed, to allow the new rings to bed in correctly and provide the best possible seal. Honing is an operation that will be carried out for you by an engine reconditioning specialist. 18 After all machining operations are completed, the entire block/crankcase must be washed very thoroughly with warm soapy water to remove all traces of abrasive grit produced during the machining operations. When the cylinder block/crankcase is completely clean, rinse it thoroughly and dry it, then lightly oil all exposed machined surfaces, to prevent rusting. 19 The cylinder block/crankcase should now be completely clean and dry, with all components checked for wear or damage, and repaired or overhauled as necessary. Refit as many ancillary components as possible, for safekeeping. If reassembly is not to start immediately, cover the block with a large plastic bag to keep it clean, and protect the machined surfaces as described above to prevent rusting.

16 Piston/connecting rod

assemblies - inspection

Note: Always check first what replacement parts are available before planning any overhaul operation. A Rover dealer, or a good engine reconditioning specialist/automotive parts supplier may be able to suggest alternatives which will enable you to overcome the lack of replacement parts.

1 Before the inspection process can be carried out, the piston/connecting rod assemblies must be cleaned, and the original piston rings removed from the pistons. The rings should have smooth, polished working surfaces, with no dull or carbon-coated sections (showing that the ring is not sealing correctly against the bore wall, so allowing combustion gases to blow by) and no traces of wear on their top and bottom surfaces. The end gaps should be clear of carbon, but not polished (indicating a too-small end gap), and all the rings (including the elements of the oil control ring) should be free to rotate in their grooves, but without excessive up-and-down movement. If the rings appear to be in good condition, they are probably fit for further use; check the end gaps (in an unworn part of the bore). If any of the rings appears to be worn or

damaged, or has an end gap significantly different from the specified value, the usual course of action is to renew all of them as a set. Note: While it is usual always to renew

piston rings when an engine is overhauled, this of course assumes that rings are available separately - if not, it follows that great care must be taken not to break or damage any of the rings during the following procedures, and to ensure that each ring is marked on removal so that it is refitted only the original way up, and only to the same groove.

2 Using a piston ring installation tool, carefully remove the rings from the pistons. If such a tool is not available, the rings can be removed by hand, expanding them over the top of the pistons. The use of two or three old feeler blades will be helpful in preventing the rings dropping into empty grooves. Be careful not to nick or gouge the pistons in the process, and mark or label each ring as it is removed, so that its original top surface can be identified on reassembly, and that it can be returned to its original groove. 3 Scrape all traces of carbon from the top of the piston. A hand-held wire brush or a piece of fine emery cloth can be used, once the majority of the deposits have been scraped away. Do not, under any circumstances, use a wire brush mounted in a drill motor to remove deposits from the pistons - the piston material is soft, and may be eroded away by the wire brush. 4 Use a piston ring groove-cleaning tool to remove carbon deposits from the ring grooves. If a tool isn’t available, but replacement rings have been found, a piece broken off the old ring will do the job. Be very careful to remove only the carbon deposits don’t remove any metal, and do not nick or scratch the sides of the ring grooves. Protect your fingers - piston rings are sharp! 5 Once the deposits have been removed, clean the piston/rod assemblies with solvent, and dry them with compressed air (if available). Make sure the oil return holes in the back sides of the ring grooves, and the oil hole in the lower end of each rod, are clear. 6 If the pistons and cylinder walls aren’t damaged or worn excessively, and if the cylinder block/crankcase is not rebored, new pistons won’t be necessary. Normal piston wear appears as even vertical wear on the piston thrust surfaces, and slight looseness of the top ring in its groove. 7 Carefully inspect each piston for cracks around the skirt, at the pin bosses, and at the ring lands (between the ring grooves). 8 Look for scoring and scuffing on the thrust faces of the skirt, holes in the piston crown, and burned areas at the edge of the crown. If the skirt is scored or scuffed, the engine may have been suffering from overheating and/or abnormal combustion, which caused excessively-high operating temperatures. The cooling and lubrication systems should be checked thoroughly. A hole in the piston crown is an indication that abnormal

combustion (pre-ignition) was occurring. Burned areas at the edge of the piston crown are usually evidence of spark knock (detonation). If any of the above problems exist, the causes must be corrected, or the damage will occur again. The causes may include intake air leaks, incorrect fuel/air mixture or incorrect ignition timing. 9 Corrosion of the piston, in the form of small pits, indicates that coolant is leaking into the combustion chamber and/or the crankcase. Again, the cause must be corrected, or the problem may persist in the rebuilt engine. 10 Check the piston-to-rod clearance by twisting the piston and rod in opposite directions. Any noticeable play indicates excessive wear, which must be corrected. On 4-cylinder “T”-series engines and V6 engines, the piston/connecting rod assemblies should be taken to a Rover dealer or engine reconditioning specialist to have the pistons, gudgeon pins and rods checked, and new components fitted as required. 11 On these engines, don’t attempt to separate the pistons from the connecting rods (even if non-genuine replacements are found elsewhere). This is a task for a Rover dealer or similar engine reconditioning specialist, due to the special heating equipment, press, mandrels and supports required to do the job. If the piston/connecting rod assemblies do require this sort of work, have the connecting rods checked for bend and twist, since only such engine repair specialists will have the facilities for this purpose. 12 On 4-cylinder “M” series engines, the gudgeon pins are retained by circlips and the pistons and connecting rods can be separated. 13 To remove the pistons from the connecting rods, extract the two gudgeon pin retaining circlips, using a small screwdriver, then push out the gudgeon pin (see illustration). If the pin is tight, warm the piston in hot water, which will expand the piston slightly, enabling the gudgeon pin to be pushed out. As each piston is removed, mark it on the inside with a punch, indicating its cylinder number. 14 Check the connecting rods for cracks and other damage. Also on 4-cylinder engines, check that the oilway in the base of the

2C•14 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

16.13 Using a small screwdriver to extract the gudgeon pin circlip

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

connecting rod is clear by probing with a piece of wire. Temporarily remove the big-end bearing caps and the old bearing shells, wipe clean the rod and cap bearing recesses, and inspect them for nicks, gouges and scratches. After checking the rods, replace the old shells, slip the caps into place, and tighten the bolts finger-tight. 15 To refit the pistons to their connecting rods on “M” series engines, start with No 1 and insert the connecting rod into the piston, so that the offset at the gudgeon pin end of the rod is towards the side of the piston marked FRONT on its top face (see illustrations). Insert the gudgeon pin, and refit the retaining circlips. Ensure that the circlips fully enter their grooves. 16 Assemble the No 3 piston and connecting rod in the same way. 17 Assemble the No 2 and No 4 pistons and connecting rods in the same way, but with the offset at the gudgeon pin end of the rod away from the side of the piston marked FRONT.

17 Crankshaft - inspection

1 Clean the crankshaft, and dry it with compressed air if available.

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air! Be sure to clean the oil holes with a pipe cleaner or similar probe.

2 Check the main and crankpin (big-end) bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring, pitting and cracking. 3 Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oil holes with a stone, file or scraper. 4 Using a micrometer, measure the diameter of the main bearing and crankpin (big-end) journals, and compare the results with the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter

(see illustration).

5 By measuring the diameter at a number of

points around each journal’s circumference, you will be able to determine whether or not the journal is out-of-round. Take the measurement at each end of the journal, near the webs, to determine if the journal is tapered. 6 If the crankshaft journals are damaged, tapered, out-of-round, or worn beyond the limits specified in this Chapter, the crankshaft must be taken to an engine overhaul specialist, who will regrind it, and who can supply the necessary undersize bearing shells. 7 Check the oil seal journals at each end of the crankshaft for wear and damage. If either seal has worn an excessive groove in its journal, consult an engine overhaul specialist, who will be able to advise whether a repair is possible, or whether a new crankshaft is necessary.

18 Main and big-end bearings -

inspection

Note: Always check first what replacement parts are available before planning any overhaul operation. A Rover dealer, or a good engine reconditioning specialist/automotive

parts supplier, may be able to suggest alternatives which will enable you to overcome the lack of replacement parts.

1 Even though the main and big-end bearing shells should be renewed during the engine overhaul, the old shells should be retained for close examination, as they may reveal valuable information about the condition of the engine (see illustration). 2 Bearing failure occurs because of lack of lubrication, the presence of dirt or other foreign particles, overloading the engine, and corrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearing failure, it must be corrected before the engine is reassembled, to prevent it from happening again. 3 When examining the bearing shells, remove them from the cylinder block/crankcase and main bearing caps, and from the connecting rods and the big-end bearing caps, then lay them out on a clean surface in the same general position as their location in the engine. This will enable you to match any bearing problems with the corresponding crankshaft journal. Do not touch any shell’s bearing surface with your fingers while checking it, or the delicate surface may be scratched. 4 Dirt or other foreign matter gets into the engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in the engine during assembly, or it may pass

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2C•15

17.4 Measuring the main bearing journal diameters

16.15b The pistons are marked FRONT on their top face (arrowed) on “M” series

4-cylinder engines

16.15a Connecting rod offset and oil squirt hole relationship on “M” series 4-cylinder

engines

18.1 Typical bearing failures

A Scratched by dirt; dirt embedded in bearing

material B Lack of oil; overlay wiped out C Improper seating: bright (polished) sections

D Tapered journal; overlay gone from entire

surface E Radius ride F Fatigue failure: craters or pockets

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

H27537

through filters or the crankcase ventilation system. It may get into the oil, and from there into the bearings. Metal chips from machining operations and normal engine wear are often present. Abrasives are sometimes left in engine components after reconditioning, especially when parts are not thoroughly cleaned using the proper cleaning methods. Whatever the source, these foreign objects often end up embedded in the soft bearing material, and are easily recognized. Large particles will not embed in the material, and will score or gouge the shell and journal. The best prevention for this cause of bearing failure is to clean all parts thoroughly, and to keep everything spotlessly-clean during engine assembly. Frequent and regular engine oil and filter changes are also recommended. 5 Lack of lubrication (or lubrication breakdown) has a number of inter-related causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil), overloading (which squeezes the oil from the bearing face) and oil leakage (from excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump or high engine speeds) all contribute to lubrication breakdown. Blocked oil passages, which usually are the result of misaligned oil holes in a bearing shell, will also starve a bearing of oil, and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is the cause of bearing failure, the bearing material is wiped or extruded from the shell’s steel backing. Temperatures may increase to the point where the steel backing turns blue from overheating. 6 Driving habits can have a definite effect on bearing life. Full-throttle, low-speed operation (labouring the engine) puts very high loads on bearings, which tends to squeeze out the oil film. These loads cause the shells to flex, which produces fine cracks in the bearing face (fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearing material will loosen in pieces, and tear away from the steel backing. Short-distance driving leads to corrosion of bearings, because insufficient engine heat is produced to drive off condensed water and corrosive gases. These products collect in the engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil is carried to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and corrodes the bearing material. 7 Incorrect shell refitting during engine assembly will lead to bearing failure as well. Tight-fitting shells leave insufficient bearing

running clearance, and will result in oil starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped behind a bearing shell result in high spots on the bearing, which lead to failure. Do not touch any shell’s bearing surface with your fingers during reassembly; there is a risk of scratching the delicate surface, or of depositing particles of dirt on it.

19 Engine overhaul -

reassembly sequence

1 Before reassembly begins ensure that all new parts have been obtained and that all necessary tools are available. Read through the entire procedure to familiarise yourself with the work involved, and to ensure that all items necessary for reassembly of the engine are at hand. In addition to all normal tools and materials, jointing and thread locking compound will be needed in some areas during engine reassembly. In all other cases, provided the relevant mating surfaces are clean and flat, new gaskets will be sufficient to ensure joints are oil-tight. Do not use any kind of silicone-based sealant on any part of the fuel system or inlet manifold, and never use exhaust sealants upstream of the catalytic converter. 2 In order to save time and avoid problems, engine reassembly can be carried out in the following order (as applicable).

(a) Crankshaft and main bearings. (b) Engine adaptor plate or rear oil seal

carrier. (c) Pistons and connecting rods. (d) Oil pump. (e) Sump. (f) Flywheel/driveplate. (g) Cylinder head(s). (h) Camshafts and hydraulic tappets. (i) Timing sprockets, tensioners and belt. (j) Engine external components.

3 Ensure that everything is clean prior to reassembly. As mentioned previously, dirt and metal particles can quickly destroy bearings and result in major engine damage. Use clean engine oil to lubricate during reassembly.

20 Piston rings - refitting

1 Before installing new piston rings, check the end gaps. Lay out each piston set with a piston/connecting rod assembly, and keep them together as a matched set from now on. 2 Insert the top compression ring into the first cylinder, and square it up with the cylinder walls by pushing it in with the top of the piston. The ring should be near the bottom of the cylinder, at the lower limit of ring travel. 3 To measure the end gap, slip feeler gauges between the ends of the ring, until a gauge equal to the gap width is found (see illustration). The feeler gauge should slide

between the ring ends with a slight amount of drag. Compare the measurement to the value given in the Specifications Section of this Chapter; if the gap is larger or smaller than specified, double-check to make sure you have the correct rings before proceeding. If you are assessing the condition of used rings, have the cylinder bores checked and measured by a Rover dealer or similar engine reconditioning specialist, so that you can be sure of exactly which component is worn, and seek advice as to the best course of action to take. 4 If the end gap is still too small, it must be opened up by careful filing of the ring ends using a fine file. If it is too large, this is not as serious, unless the specified limit is exceeded, in which case very careful checking is required of the dimensions of all components, as well as of the new parts. 5 Repeat the procedure for each ring that will be installed in the first cylinder, and for each ring in the remaining cylinders. Remember to keep rings, pistons and cylinders matched up. 6 Refit the piston rings as follows. Where the original rings are being refitted, use the marks or notes made on removal, to ensure that each ring is refitted to its original groove and the same way up. New rings generally have their top surfaces identified by markings (often an indication of size, such as “STD”, or the word “TOP”) - the rings must be fitted with such markings uppermost. Note: Always

follow the instructions printed on the ring package or box - different manufacturers may require different approaches. Do not mix up the top and second compression rings, as they usually have different cross-sections.

7 The oil control ring (lowest one on the piston) is usually installed first. It is composed of three separate elements. Slip the spacer/expander into the groove. If an antirotation tang is used, make sure it is inserted into the drilled hole in the ring groove. Next, install the lower side rail. Don’t use a piston ring installation tool on the oil ring side rails, as they may be damaged. Instead, place one end of the side rail into the groove between the spacer/expander and the ring land, hold it firmly in place, and slide a finger around the piston while pushing the rail into the groove. Next, install the upper side rail in the same manner. 8 After the three oil ring components have been installed, check that both the upper and lower side rails can be turned smoothly in the ring groove. 9 The second compression (middle) ring is installed next, followed by the top compression ring - ensure their marks are uppermost, and be careful not to confuse them. Don’t expand either ring any more than necessary to slide it over the top of the piston. 10 When all the rings are in place set the ring gaps as follows:

4-cylinder “M” series engines - set the

compression ring gaps at 90º to each other, and away from the thrust side of

2C•16 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

20.3 Measuring piston ring end gap

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

the piston. Position the gaps of the two oil control rails and the expander at 90º to each other.

4-cylinder “T” series engines - set the

compression ring gaps at 120º to each other and away from the inlet valve cutout side of the piston. Position the gaps of the two oil control rails at 120º to each other and the gap of the expander at 120º to the rail gaps. On turbocharged engines, position the oil control rail gap and spring gap at 30º on opposite sides of the gudgeon pin axis.

V6 engines - set the compression ring gaps at

90º to each other and the oil control expander gap at 90º to the top ring gap. Position the oil control rail gaps at 15º either side of the expander gap.

21 Crankshaft - refitting and

main bearing running clearance check

1 It is assumed at this point that the cylinder block/crankcase and crankshaft have been cleaned, inspected and repaired or reconditioned as necessary. Position the engine upside-down. 2 Remove the main bearing cap bolts, and lift out the caps. Lay the caps out in the proper order, to ensure correct installation. 3 If they’re still in place, remove the old bearing shells from the block and the main bearing caps. Wipe the bearing recesses of the block and caps with a clean, lint-free cloth. They must be kept spotlessly-clean!

Main bearing running clearance check

4 Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in the crankcase and clean the backs of the bearing shells. Insert the respective upper shells (dry) into position in the crankcase and the lower shells into their respective caps. On the V6 engines, the shells with the oil groves are fitted to the crankcase, and the plain shells are fitted to the caps. Where the old main bearings are being refitted, ensure that they are located in their original positions. Make sure the tab on each bearing shell fits

into the notch in the block or cap (see illustration).

Caution: Don’t hammer the shells into place, and don’t nick or gouge the bearing faces. No lubrication should be used at this time.

5 Place the crankshaft thrustwashers into position in the crankcase so that their oil grooves are facing outwards (away from the central web) (see illustration). 6 Clean the bearing surfaces of the shells in the block, and the crankshaft main bearing journals with a clean, lint-free cloth. Check or clean the oil holes in the crankshaft, as any dirt here can go only one way - straight through the new bearings. 7 Once you’re certain the crankshaft is clean, carefully lay it in position in the main bearings. Trim several pieces of the appropriate-size Plastigage (they must be slightly shorter than the width of the main bearings), and place one piece on each crankshaft main bearing journal, parallel with the crankshaft centre-line

(see illustration). 8 Clean the bearing surfaces of the cap

shells, and install the caps in their respective positions (don’t mix them up) with the arrows pointing to the timing belt end of the engine or positioned according to the marks made during removal. Don’t disturb the Plastigage. 9 Working on one cap at a time, from the centre main bearing outwards (and ensuring that each cap is tightened down squarely and evenly onto the block), tighten the main

bearing cap bolts to the specified torque wrench setting (Chapter 2, Part A). Don’t rotate the crankshaft at any time during this operation! 10 Remove the bolts, and carefully lift off the main bearing caps (on V6 engines, use the oil gallery bolts as before). Keep them in order. Don’t disturb the Plastigage or rotate the crankshaft. 11 Compare the width of the crushed Plastigage on each journal with the scale printed on the Plastigage envelope to obtain the main bearing running clearance (see illustration). Check the Specifications to make sure that the clearance is correct. 12 If the clearance is not as specified, seek the advice of a Rover dealer or similar engine reconditioning specialist - if the crankshaft journals are in good condition, it may be possible simply to renew the shells to achieve the correct clearance. If this is not possible, the crankshaft must be reground by a specialist who can supply the necessary undersized shells. First though, make sure that no dirt or oil was between the bearing shells and the caps or block when the clearance was measured. If the Plastigage is noticeably wider at one end than the other, the journal may be tapered. 13 Carefully scrape all traces of the Plastigage material off the main bearing journals and the bearing surfaces. Be very careful not to scratch the bearing - use your fingernail or the edge of a credit card.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2C•17

21.7 Plastigage in place on a crankshaft main bearing journal

21.5 Fitting the crankshaft thrustwashers21.4 Fitting the main bearing shell upper

halves

21.14 Thoroughly lubricate the crankshaft journals

21.11 Measuring the width of the

deformed Plastigage using the scale on

the card provided

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Final refitting

14 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the engine. Clean the bearing surfaces of the shells in the block, then apply a thin, uniform layer of clean molybdenum disulphide-based grease, engine assembly lubricant, or clean engine oil to each surface (see illustration). Coat the thrustwasher surfaces as well. 15 Lubricate the crankshaft oil seal journals with molybdenum disulphide-based grease, engine assembly lubricant, or clean engine oil. 16 Make sure the crankshaft journals are clean, then lay the crankshaft back in place in the block (see illustration). Clean the bearing surfaces of the shells in the caps, then lubricate them. Install the caps in their respective positions, with the arrows pointing to the timing belt end of the engine or the previously made marks positioned correctly. When fitting the centre main bearing cap on 4-cylinder engines, ensure that the thrustwashers, generously lubricated, are fitted with their oil grooves facing outwards, and the locating tab of each is engaged with the slot in the main bearing cap (see illustration). Apply RTV sealant into the vertical grooves on the edges of Nos 1 and 5 main bearing caps, then fit these caps to their locations. 17 On 4-cylinder engines, working on one cap at a time, from the centre main bearing outwards (and ensuring that each cap is tightened down squarely and evenly onto the block), tighten the main bearing cap bolts to

the specified torque wrench setting (Chapter 2, Part A). 18 On V6 engines, tighten the bolts to the specified torque (Chapter 2, Part A) in the sequence shown (see illustration). 19 Rotate the crankshaft a number of times by hand, to check for any obvious binding. 20 Check the crankshaft endfloat. It should be correct if the crankshaft thrust faces aren’t worn or damaged. 21 On 4-cylinder engines, apply sealer to the crankcase breather tube extension, then fit the tube to its location. Apply sealant to the breather tube elbow, and fit the elbow, ensuring that it is tapped down until the shoulder contacts the crankcase. 22 On V6 engines, refit the oil gallery, use new O-ring seals and secure with the bolts tightened to the specified torque (Chapter 2, Part A). 23 Refit the engine oil seal carrier, or adaptor plate and install a new seal (see Part A or B of this Chapter according to engine type).

22 Piston/connecting rod

assemblies - refitting and big-end

bearing running clearance check

1 Before refitting the piston/connecting rod assemblies, the cylinder bores must be perfectly clean, the top edge of each cylinder must be chamfered, and the crankshaft must be in place. 2 Remove the big-end bearing cap from No 1 cylinder connecting rod (refer to the marks noted or made on removal). Remove the original bearing shells, and wipe the bearing

recesses of the connecting rod and cap with a clean, lint-free cloth. They must be kept spotlessly-clean!

Big-end bearing running clearance check

3 Clean the back of the new upper bearing shell, fit it to the connecting rod, then fit the other shell of the bearing set to the big-end bearing cap. Make sure the tab on each shell fits into the notch in the rod or cap recess.

Caution: Don’t hammer the shells into place, and don’t nick or gouge the bearing face. Don’t lubricate the bearing at this time.

4 It’s critically important that all mating surfaces of the bearing components are perfectly clean and oil-free when they’re assembled. 5 Position the piston ring gaps as described in Section 16, lubricate the piston and rings with clean engine oil, and attach a piston ring compressor to the piston. Leave the skirt protruding about a quarter-inch, to guide the piston into the cylinder bore. The rings must be compressed until they’re flush with the piston. 6 Rotate the crankshaft until No 1 crankpin (big-end) journal is at Bottom Dead Centre, and apply a coat of engine oil to the cylinder walls. 7 Arrange the No 1 piston/connecting rod assembly so that the word FRONT or the arrow on the piston crown points to the timing belt end of the engine. Gently insert the assembly into the No 1 cylinder bore, and rest the bottom edge of the ring compressor on the engine block.

2C•18 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures

21.18 Main bearing cap retaining bolt tightening sequence on V6 engines

21.16b Fitting the crankshaft thrustwasher lower halves to the centre bearing cap on

4-cylinder engines

21.16a Crankshaft installation

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

8 Tap the top edge of the ring compressor to make sure it’s contacting the block around its entire circumference. 9 Gently tap on the top of the piston with the end of a wooden hammer handle (see illustration), while guiding the connecting rod’s big-end onto the crankpin. The piston rings may try to pop out of the ring compressor just before entering the cylinder bore, so keep some pressure on the ring compressor. Work slowly, and if any resistance is felt as the piston enters the cylinder, stop immediately. Find out what’s binding, and fix it before proceeding. Do not, for any reason, force the piston into the cylinder - you might break a ring and/or the piston. 10 To check the big-end bearing running clearance, cut a piece of the appropriate-size Plastigage slightly shorter than the width of the connecting rod bearing, and lay it in place on the No 1 crankpin (big-end) journal, parallel with the crankshaft centre-line. 11 Clean the connecting rod-to-cap mating surfaces, and refit the big-end bearing cap. Tighten the cap bolts to the specified torque (Chapter 2, Part A). Don’t rotate the crankshaft at any time during this operation! 12 Unscrew the bolts and detach the cap, being very careful not to disturb the Plastigage. 13 Compare the width of the crushed Plastigage to the scale printed on the Plastigage envelope, to obtain the running clearance. Compare it to the Specifications, to make sure the clearance is correct.

14 If the clearance is not as specified, seek the advice of a Rover dealer or similar engine reconditioning specialist - if the crankshaft journals are in good condition, it may be possible simply to renew the shells to achieve the correct clearance. If this is not possible, the crankshaft must be reground by a specialist, who can also supply the necessary undersized shells. First though, make sure that no dirt or oil was trapped between the bearing shells and the connecting rod or cap when the clearance was measured. Also, recheck the crankpin diameter. If the Plastigage was wider at one end than the other, the crankpin journal may be tapered. 15 Carefully scrape all traces of the Plastigage material off the journal and the bearing surface. Be very careful not to scratch the bearing - use your fingernail or the edge of a credit card.

Final piston/connecting rod refitting

16 Make sure the bearing surfaces are perfectly clean, then apply a uniform layer of clean molybdenum disulphide-based grease, engine assembly lubricant, or clean engine oil, to both of them. You’ll have to push the piston into the cylinder to expose the bearing surface of the shell in the connecting rod. 17 Slide the connecting rod back into place on the crankpin (big-end) journal, refit the bigend bearing cap, and then tighten the bolts as described above. 18 Repeat the entire procedure for the remaining piston/connecting rod assemblies. 19 The important points to remember are:

(a) Keep the backs of the bearing shells and

the recesses of the connecting rods and caps perfectly clean when assembling them.

(b) Make sure you have the correct

piston/rod assembly for each cylinder.

word FRONT must face the timing belt end of the engine.

(d) Lubricate the cylinder bores with clean

engine oil.

(e) Lubricate the bearing surfaces when

refitting the big-end bearing caps after the running clearance has been checked.

20 After all the piston/connecting rod

assemblies have been properly installed, rotate the crankshaft a number of times by hand, to check for any obvious binding. 21 Continue with the engine reassembly in the sequence given in Section 19.

23 Engine -

initial start-up after overhaul

1 With the engine refitted in the vehicle, double-check the engine oil and coolant levels. Make a final check that everything has been reconnected, and that there are no tools or rags left in the engine compartment. 2 Refit the spark plugs, and connect all the spark plug (HT) leads (Chapter 1). Switch on the ignition and listen for the fuel pump; it will run for a little longer than usual, due to the lack of pressure in the system. 3 Start the engine, noting that this also may take a little longer than usual, due to the fuel system components being empty. 4 While the engine is idling, check for fuel, coolant and oil leaks. Don’t be alarmed if there are some odd smells and smoke from parts getting hot and burning off oil deposits. If the hydraulic tappets have been disturbed, some valve gear noise may be heard at first; this should disappear as the oil circulates fully around the engine, and normal pressure is restored in the tappets. 5 Keep the engine idling until hot water is felt circulating through the top hose, check that it idles reasonably smoothly and at the usual speed, then switch it off. 6 After a few minutes, recheck the oil and coolant levels, and top-up as necessary (Chapter 1). 7 If they were tightened as described, there is no need to re-tighten the cylinder head bolts once the engine has first run after reassembly. 8 If new components such as pistons, rings or crankshaft bearings have been fitted, the engine must be run-in for the first 500 miles (800 km). Do not operate the engine at fullthrottle, or allow it to labour in any gear during this period. It is recommended that the oil and filter be changed at the end of this period.

Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures 2C•19

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

22.9 Refitting the piston and connecting rod assemblies, with the aid of a ring

compressor

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Coolant

Mixture type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Cooling system capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1

Expansion tank cap

System pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 bar

Thermostat

4-cylinder engines:

Starts-to-open temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76º to 80ºC

Fully-open temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88ºC

V6 engines:

Fully-open temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78ºC

Air conditioning system

Refrigerant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . R12 or R134a

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Water outlet elbow to thermostat housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Thermostat housing to cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Water pump:

to cylinder block (“M” series engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

housing cover bolts (“T” series engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5

to engine plate (V6 engines):

M6x22 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

M6x25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Engine mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Timing belt tensioner plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Intercooler to radiator bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11

Air conditioning condenser pipe unions:

M17 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 13

M22 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Air conditioning condenser pipe union bolts (From VIN 152206) . . . . . . 10 7

Air conditioning compressor pipe unions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Air conditioning compressor mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Air conditioning compressor pipe bracket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Air conditioning receiver/dryer pipe unions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Air conditioning evaporator pipe unions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Chapter 3

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Air conditioning system - general information and precautions . . . . 13

Air conditioning system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Air conditioning system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . 14

Antifreeze - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Auxiliary drivebelts check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Coolant level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Cooling system electrical switches and sensors - removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Cooling system checks (coolant leaks, hose condition) .See Chapter 1

Cooling system hoses - disconnection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and refilling) . .See Chapter 1

Electric cooling fan assembly - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . 5

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Heater/air conditioning controls - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 12

Heater/ventilation components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Radiator (4-cylinder engines) - removal, inspection and refitting . . . 7

Radiator (V6 engines) - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . 8

Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Water pump (4-cylinder engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 9

Water pump (V6 engines) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

3•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

1 General information

Engine cooling system

The cooling system is of the pressurized, pump-assisted thermosyphon type. The system consists of the radiator, water pump, thermostat, electric cooling fan, expansion tank and associated hoses (see illustrations). On “M” series 4-cylinder engines, and V6 engines, the impeller type water pump is mounted on the right-hand end of the engine, and is driven by the timing belt. On “T” series 4-cylinder engines, the water pump is mounted behind, and driven by, the power steering pump, which itself is driven by the auxiliary drive belt.

The system functions as follows. Cold coolant in the bottom of the radiator left-hand tank passes, via hoses and pipes, to the water pump, where it is pumped around the cylinder block and head passages. After cooling the cylinder bores, combustion surfaces and valve seats, the coolant reaches the underside of the thermostat, which is initially closed, and is diverted through a bypass hose to the heater matrix. On 4-cylinder engines, after passing through the heater, the coolant travels through the water jacket of the inlet manifold or throttle housing, and to the turbocharger, or to the automatic transmission fluid cooler where applicable, before returning to the water pump inlet hose. On V6 engines, after passing through the heater, the coolant circulates through the engine oil cooler, fuel system fast idle valve, idle control valve, throttle body and inlet manifold and to the automatic transmission fluid cooler, where applicable, before returning to the water pump.

When the engine is cold, the thermostat remains closed, and the coolant only circulates as described. When the coolant reaches a predetermined temperature, the thermostat opens, and the coolant passes through the top hose to the radiator righthand tank. As the coolant circulates around the radiator, it is cooled by the inrush of air when the car is in forward motion. Airflow is supplemented by the action of the electric cooling fan(s) when necessary. Upon reaching the left-hand side of the radiator, the coolant is now cooled and the cycle is repeated.

When the engine is at normal operating temperature, the coolant expands, and some of it is displaced into the expansion tank. This coolant collects in the tank, and is returned to the radiator when the system cools.

The electric cooling fan mounted on the radiator is controlled by a thermostatic switch, located in the radiator right-hand side tank. At a predetermined coolant temperature, the switch contacts close, thus actuating the fan. On models equipped with air conditioning, additional fans are fitted for cooling of the air conditioning system condenser.

3•2 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

1.1a Cooling system layout and flow diagram - 4-cylinder engines

1.1b Cooling system layout - V6 engines

Dark arrows indicate hot coolant flow Light arrows indicate cold coolant flow 1 Water pump 2 Radiator 3 Bottom hose

4 Thermostat housing 5 Bypass (heater) hose 6 Heater hose 7 Throttle housing 8 Automatic transmission

fluid cooler

9 Thermostat open

10 Coolant flow through top

hose

11 Cooling fan thermostatic

switch 12 Expansion tank 13 Pressure cap

1 Radiator 2 Cooling fan thermostatic

switch 3 Radiator cooling fan 4 Coolant low level switch 5 Pressure cap 6 Expansion tank

7 Water pump 8 Heater hoses

9 Water pump inlet pipe 10 Thermostat housing 11 Bottom hose 12 Top hose 13 Oil cooler

14 Oil cooler return pipe 15 Bleed screw 16 Air conditioning condenser

fan thermostatic switch

17 Air conditioning condenser

fan

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank filler cap, or to disturb any part of the

cooling system, while it or the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. If the expansion tank filler cap must be removed before the engine and radiator have fully cooled down (even though this is not recommended) the pressure in the cooling system must first be released. Cover the cap with a thick layer of cloth, to avoid scalding, and slowly unscrew the filler cap until a hissing sound can be heard. When the hissing has stopped, showing that pressure is released, slowly unscrew the filler cap further until it can be removed; if more hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before unscrewing the cap completely. At all times, keep well away from the filler opening.

Warning: If the engine is hot, the

electric cooling fan(s) may start

rotating even if the engine is not

running, so be careful to keep hands, hair and loose clothing well clear when working in the engine compartment.

Heating system

The heating system consists of a blower fan and heater matrix (radiator) located in the heater unit, with hoses connecting the heater matrix to the engine cooling system. Hot engine coolant is circulated through the heater matrix. When the heater temperature control on the facia is operated, a flap door opens to expose the heater box to the passenger compartment. When the blower control is operated, the blower fan forces air through the unit according to the setting selected.

Air conditioning system

See Section 14.

2 Antifreeze -

general information

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin, or with the painted

surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or in puddles on the floor; children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, and may drink it. Check with local authorities about disposing of used antifreeze - many have collection centres which will see that antifreeze is disposed of safely.

The cooling system should be filled with a water/ethylene glycol-based antifreeze solution, of a strength which will prevent freezing down to -25ºC, or lower if the local

climate requires it. Antifreeze also provides protection against corrosion, and increases the coolant boiling point.

The cooling system should be maintained according to the schedule described in Chapter 1. If antifreeze is used that is not to Rover’s specification, old or contaminated coolant mixtures are likely to cause damage, and encourage the formation of corrosion and scale in the system. Use distilled water with the antifreeze, if available - if not, be sure to use only soft water. Clean rainwater is suitable.

Before adding antifreeze, check all hoses and hose connections, because antifreeze tends to leak through very small openings. Engines don’t normally consume coolant, so if the level goes down, find the cause and correct it.

The exact mixture of antifreeze-to-water which you should use depends on the relative weather conditions. On all V6 engines, and 4-cylinder engines equipped with air conditioning, the mixture should contain approximately 50% antifreeze. On 4-cylinder engines without air conditioning, approximately a 33% antifreeze mixture is recommended. Antifreeze concentrations greater than 55% for V6 engines or 60% for 4-cylinder engines are not recommended as the efficiency of the cooling system may be impaired. Consult the mixture ratio chart on the antifreeze container before adding coolant. Hydrometers are available at most automotive accessory shops to test the coolant. Use antifreeze which meets the vehicle manufacturer’s specifications.

3 Cooling system hoses -

disconnection and renewal

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work.

1 If the checks described in Chapter 1 reveal a faulty hose, it must be renewed as follows. 2 First drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1); if the antifreeze is not due for renewal, the drained coolant may be re-used, if it is collected in a clean container. 3 To disconnect any hose, use a pair of pliers to release the spring clamps (or a screwdriver to slacken screw-type clamps), then move them along the hose clear of the union. Carefully work the hose off its stubs. The hoses can be removed with relative ease when new - on an older car, they may have stuck. 4 If a hose proves stubborn, try to release it by rotating it on its unions before attempting to work it off. Gently prise the end of the hose with a blunt instrument (such as a flat-bladed screwdriver), but do not apply too much force, and take care not to damage the pipe stubs or hoses. Note in particular that the

radiator hose unions are fragile; do not use excessive force when attempting to remove the hoses.

5 When refitting a hose, first slide the clamps onto the hose, then work the hose onto its unions. If the hose is stiff, use soap (or washing-up liquid) as a lubricant, or soften it by soaking it in boiling water, but take care to prevent scalding. 6 Work each hose end fully onto its union, then check that the hose is settled correctly and is properly routed. Slide each clip along the hose until it is behind the union flared end, before tightening it securely. 7 Refill the system with coolant (see Chapter 1). 8 Check carefully for leaks as soon as possible after disturbing any part of the cooling system.

4 Thermostat -

removal, testing and refitting

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work.

4-cylinder engines

Removal

1 Partially drain the cooling system

(approximately 2.5 litres), using the procedure described in Chapter 1. 2 Slacken the clips and detach the radiator top hose and expansion tank hose from the water outlet elbow on the thermostat housing

(see illustration). 3 Undo the two bolts and remove the water

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•3

4.2 Detach the radiator top hose and

expansion tank hose from the water outlet

elbow

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

If all else fails, cut the coolant hose with a sharp knife, then slit it so that it

can be peeled off in two pieces. While expensive, this is preferable to buying a new radiator. Check first, however, that a new hose is readily available.

outlet elbow (see illustrations). Remove the gasket. 4 Withdraw the thermostat from its seat in the housing (see illustration). 5 To remove the housing, disconnect the coolant temperature sensor wiring multiplug(s). A single sensor is fitted to early engines; two are fitted to later engines. 6 Slacken the retaining clips, and disconnect the heater pipe connecting hose from the side of the housing. 7 Undo the two bolts, and remove the thermostat housing and gasket from the cylinder head (see illustration).

Testing

8 Before assuming the thermostat is to blame

for a cooling system problem, check the coolant level, where applicable the auxiliary drivebelt tension and condition (see Chapter 1) and temperature gauge operation. 9 If the engine seems to be taking a long time to warm up (based on heater output or temperature gauge operation), the thermostat is probably stuck open. Renew the thermostat. 10 If the engine runs hot, use your hand to check the temperature of the radiator top hose. If the hose isn’t hot, but the engine is, the thermostat is probably stuck closed, preventing the coolant inside the engine from escaping to the radiator - renew the thermostat.

Caution: Don’t drive the vehicle without a thermostat. The lack of a thermostat will slow warm-up time. The engine

management system’s ECU will then stay in warm-up mode for longer than necessary, causing emissions and fuel economy to suffer.

11 If the radiator top hose is hot, it means that the coolant is flowing and the thermostat is open. Consult the “Fault diagnosis” section at the front of this manual to assist in tracing possible cooling system faults. 12 If the thermostat remains in the open position at room temperature, it is faulty, and must be renewed as a matter of course. 13 To test it fully, suspend the (closed) thermostat on a length of string in a container of cold water, with a thermometer beside it; ensure that neither touches the side or bottom of the container. 14 Heat the water, and check the temperature at which the thermostat begins to open, or is fully open. Compare this value with the figures given in the Specifications, then remove the thermostat and allow it to cool down; check that it closes fully. 15 If the thermostat does not open and close as described, if it sticks in either position, or if it does not open at the specified temperature, it must be renewed.

Refitting

16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing

in mind the following points:

(a) Position the unit with its support legs

across the heater outlet pipe.

(b) Clean away all traces of old gasket from

the mating faces, and use a new gasket, lightly smeared with jointing compound.

bolts to the specified torque.

(d) Top up the cooling system with reference

to Chapter 1.

V6 engines

Removal

17 Refer to Chapter 4, Part D, and remove

the air cleaner components as necessary for access to the thermostat housing. 18 Partially drain the cooling system (approximately 2.5 litres), using the procedure described in Chapter 1. 19 Undo the bolt securing the hose support bracket to the thermostat housing and move the hoses aside (see illustration). 20 Slacken the clip and detach the radiator hose from the thermostat housing.

3•4 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

4.19 Thermostat and housing components on V6 engines4.7 Removing the thermostat housing

4.4 Withdraw the thermostat from the housing

4.3b . . . and remove the water outlet elbow

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

4.3a Undo the two retaining bolts . . .

1 Bottom hose clip 2 Bottom hose 3 Hose support

bracket bolt

4 Thermostat

housing bolt

5 Thermostat

housing

6 Thermostat

21 Undo the three bolts and remove the thermostat housing and gasket. 22 Withdraw the thermostat from its seat in the housing.

Testing

23 Refer to the procedures described above

for 4-cylinder engines.

Refitting

24 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure

that the housing mating surfaces are clean and use a new gasket.

5 Electric cooling fan

assembly - testing, removal

and refitting

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work. Note: On cars equipped with air conditioning, a second cooling fan for the condenser is mounted alongside the main cooling fan for the radiator The following procedures are applicable to both types of installation.

Testing

1 The cooling fans are controlled by complex circuitry and their operation is dependant on a number of factors. Single or twin fans may be fitted, with variable speed operation. Numerous sensors used in conjunction with the engine management system and, where

fitted, the air conditioning system determine their operating temperature and at what speed they will run. 2 If it is suspected that the cooling fan(s) are not operating when high engine temperature would normally require them to do so, check the relevant fuses and relays (see Chapter 12) and ensure that all wiring connections are clean and soundly made. 3 Further testing can really only be carried out successfully using Rover test equipment and should therefore be entrusted to a dealer.

Removal

4 On pre-1992 model year vehicles, remove the radiator grille as described in Chapter 11, Section 19. 5 On turbocharged and V6 engines, remove the engine undertray. 6 Undo the two bolts each side securing the centre platform to the body side members

(see illustration). 7 Undo the nut and retaining bolt securing

the bonnet safety catch to the centre platform

(see illustration). 8 Lift the centre platform upwards, turn it

over, and cut off the cable ties securing the bonnet release cable to the platform underside (see illustration). Remove the platform from the car. 9 Disconnect the cooling fan multiplug at the wiring connector (see illustration). 10 Undo the three retaining nuts (four on turbocharged engines), then carefully lift out

the cooling fan assembly (see illustrations). Note that the cooling fan, motor and cowl are a balanced assembly, and should not be dismantled. Should renewal be necessary, all three components are supplied as an assembled unit.

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

6 Cooling system electrical

switches and sensors -

removal and refitting

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work.

Cooling fan thermostatic switch

Note: On cars equipped with air conditioning, a second thermostatic switch for the condenser fan is mounted in the radiator side tank, below the main thermostatic switch for the radiator cooling fan. The following procedures are applicable to both types of installation.

Removal

1 Partially drain the cooling system

(approximately 2.5 litres), as described in Chapter 1 2 Disconnect the two wires, remove the switch retaining ring, which is a bayonet

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•5

5.8 Cut off the cable ties securing the bonnet release cable

5.7 Remove the bonnet safety catch from the centre platform

5.6 Centre platform retaining bolts - righthand side (arrowed)

5.10b Removing the cooling fan assembly5.10a Cooling fan upper retaining nut

(arrowed)

5.9 Disconnect the cooling fan multiplug at the wiring connector

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

fitting, and withdraw the switch and seal from the radiator (see illustration).

Refitting

3 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but renew

the seal if the old one has deteriorated. Top up the cooling system as described in Chapter 1.

Coolant temperature sensors

Removal

4 The coolant temperature sensors contain

an element, the resistance of which alters

according to coolant temperature. The units control the operation of the temperature gauge, and are also used by the fuel and ignition system control units to determine engine temperature. Depending on the engine management system fitted, either a single sensor performs both functions, or a separate sensor is used for each. 5 On 4-cylinder engines either a single sensor, or two sensors are located on the thermostat housing. On V6 engines a single sensor is located in a coolant passage on top of the engine, just below the distributor. 6 Partially drain the cooling system (approximately 2.5 litres) as described in Chapter 1. 7 Disconnect the wiring multiplug, then unscrew the relevant sensor from its location

(see illustrations).

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but refill

the cooling system as described in Chapter 1.

7 Radiator (4-cylinder engines)

- removal, inspection and refitting

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work.

Radiator - normally aspirated engines

Removal

1 Drain the cooling system as described in

Chapter 1. Leave the bottom radiator hose disconnected. 2 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnect the radiator top hose. 3 Disconnect the cooling fan motor multiplug(s) at the wiring connector(s). 4 Disconnect the wires at the thermostatic switch(s) just below the top hose outlet. 5 On pre-1992 model year vehicles, remove the radiator grille as described in Chapter 11, Section 19. 6 Undo the two bolts each side securing the centre platform to the body side members (see illustration 5.6).

7 Undo the nut and retaining bolt securing the bonnet safety catch to the centre platform (see illustration 5.7). 8 Lift the centre platform upwards, turn it over, and cut off the cable ties securing the bonnet release cable to the platform underside. Remove the platform from the car. 9 Lift the radiator upwards, and carefully remove it from the car. 10 With the radiator removed, it can be inspected for leaks and damage. If it needs repair, have a radiator specialist or dealer service department perform the work, as special techniques are required. Clear the matrix of flies and small leaves with a soft brush, or by hosing. 11 Reverse-flush the radiator, as described in Chapter 1. Renew the top and bottom hoses and clips if they are damaged or have deteriorated.

Refitting

12 Refitting the radiator is a reversal of

removal, but ensure that the lower mounting lugs engage in the rubber grommets, and the centre platform grommets locate over the radiator upper lugs (see illustrations). Resecure the bonnet release cable to the centre platform, using new cable ties. On completion, fill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1.

3•6 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

7.12b . . . and the centre platform

grommets (arrowed) locate over the

radiator upper lugs

7.12a Ensure that the radiator lower lugs (arrowed) engage with the rubber

grommets . . .

6.7b Coolant temperature sensor location on V6 engines

1 Wiring multiplug 2 Temperature sensor

6.7a Disconnecting the coolant

temperature sensor multiplug on the

4-cylinder engine

2 Top hose

retaining clip

4 Wiring

connectors

10 Switch retaining

ring 11 Switch 12 Seal

6.2 Cooling fan thermostatic switch components

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Radiator and intercooler turbocharged engines

Removal

13 Remove the right-hand headlight lens unit

as described in Chapter 12, Section 7. 14 Remove the air cleaner components, as necessary for access to the radiator, as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4. 15 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1. Leave the bottom radiator hose disconnected. 16 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnect the radiator top hose. 17 Disconnect the cooling fan motor multiplug(s) at the wiring connector(s). 18 Disconnect the wires at the thermostatic switch(s) just below the top hose outlet. 19 On pre-1992 model year vehicles, remove the radiator grille as described in Chapter 11, Section 19. 20 Undo the two bolts each side securing the centre platform to the body side members. 21 Undo the nut and retaining bolt securing the bonnet safety catch to the centre platform. 22 Lift the centre platform upwards, turn it over, and cut off the cable ties securing the bonnet release cable to the platform underside. Remove the platform from the car. 23 Slacken the hose clip and disconnect the coolant outlet hose at the turbocharger. 24 Slacken the retaining clip and remove the air intake hose from the turbocharger. 25 Slacken the two clips and remove the air intake and outlet hoses from the intercooler. 26 Lift the radiator and intercooler upwards, and carefully remove the assembly from the car. 27 If required, remove the upper and lower mounting bolts and nuts and separate the intercooler from the radiator. 28 With the radiator removed, it can be inspected for leaks and damage. If it needs repair, have a radiator specialist or dealer service department perform the work, as special techniques are required. Clear the matrix of flies and small leaves with a soft brush, or by hosing. 29 Reverse-flush the radiator, as described in Chapter 1. Renew the top and bottom hoses and clips if they are damaged or have deteriorated.

Refitting

30 Refitting the radiator and intercooler is a

reversal of removal, but ensure that the lower mounting lugs engage in the rubber grommets, and the centre platform grommets locate over the radiator upper lugs. Re-secure the bonnet release cable to the centre platform, using new cable ties. On completion, fill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1.

8 Radiator (V6 engines) -

removal, inspection and refitting

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work.

Removal

1 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1. Leave the bottom radiator hose disconnected. 2 On pre-1992 model year vehicles, remove the radiator grille as described in Chapter 11, Section 19. 3 Undo the two bolts each side securing the centre platform to the body side members (see illustration 5.6). 4 On vehicles with air conditioning, undo the two nuts securing the condenser to the front of the centre platform (see illustration). 5 Undo the nut and retaining bolt securing the bonnet safety catch to the centre platform (see illustration 5.7). 6 On vehicles equipped with air conditioning, cut off the cable ties or undo the screws and release the support straps, securing the various hoses to the centre platform and to the fan cowl (see illustration). 7 Lift the centre platform upwards, turn it over, and cut off the cable ties securing the bonnet release cable to the platform underside. Remove the platform from the car. 8 Slacken the retaining clip and disconnect the radiator top hose. 9 Disconnect the cooling fan motor multiplug(s) at the wiring connector(s). 10 Disconnect the wires at the thermostatic switch(s) just below the top hose outlet.

11 Where applicable, unscrew the union nuts and disconnect the automatic transmission oil cooler pipes from the radiator. Cover the disconnected pipes and fit blanking plugs to the radiator ports. 12 Lift the radiator upwards, and carefully remove it from the car. 13 With the radiator removed, it can be inspected for leaks and damage. If it needs repair, have a radiator specialist or dealer service department perform the work, as special techniques are required. Clear the matrix of flies and small leaves with a soft brush, or by hosing. 14 Reverse-flush the radiator, as described in Chapter 1. Renew the top and bottom hoses and clips if they are damaged or have deteriorated.

Refitting

15 Refitting the radiator is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the lower mounting lugs engage in the rubber grommets, and the centre platform grommets locate over the radiator upper lugs (see illustrations 7.12a and

7.12b). Re-secure the bonnet release cable and hoses to the centre platform, using new cable ties. On completion, fill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1. On models with automatic transmission, top up the transmission fluid as described in Chapter 1.

9 Water pump (4-cylinder

engines) -

removal and refitting

Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work.

“M” Series engines

Removal

1 Drain the cooling system as described in

Chapter 1. 2 Remove the timing belt as described in Chapter 2, Part A. 3 Undo the three remaining bolts securing the lower backplate to the engine, noting that on some engines, one bolt also retains a breather hose clip, and one retains an oil pipe clip. Remove the lower backplate (see illustration).

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•7

8.6 Undo the screw and release the hose support strap from the fan cowl

8.4 Condenser-to-centre platform

retaining nuts (arrowed) on the right-hand

side

9.3 Removing the lower backplate from the engine (early metal version shown,

later plastic version similar)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

4 If not already done, undo the centre retaining bolt and remove the timing belt tensioner. 5 Slacken the clip and detach the water inlet hose from the rear of the pump. 6 Undo the bolt securing the support strut to the rear of the pump housing (see

illustration). 7 Undo the four bolts securing the right-hand

engine mounting bracket to the water pump, then remove the bracket (see illustration). 8 Undo the remaining two bolts securing the water pump to the cylinder block (see

illustration). 9 Have a container handy to catch any

remaining coolant, then withdraw the pump from the block. If necessary, carefully tap the pump body with a soft-faced mallet to free it. 10 With the pump removed, scrape away all traces of RTV sealant from the pump and cylinder block mating faces, ensuring that both are completely clean and dry. 11 If the pump is to be renewed, undo the three bolts or Torx type socket-headed screws, as applicable, and remove the timing belt tensioner mounting plate so that it can be transferred to the new pump. Note, however, that it will be necessary to obtain new bolts or screws, prior to refitting. These are of the micro-encapsulated type incorporating locking compound in their threads; consequently, they can only be used once.

Refitting

12 If removed, locate the timing belt

tensioner mounting plate in position, and fit

the three bolts or screws tightened to the specified torque. Do not attempt to retighten any of the screws or bolts after the locking compound has set (approximately two minutes), otherwise the locking properties will be destroyed, and the screws may loosen in service. 13 Apply a thin, continuous bead of RTV sealant to the cylinder block mating face, and locate the water pump in position (see

illustration). 14 Apply thread sealer to the two pump

retaining bolts, and fit them finger-tight at this stage. 15 Apply thread sealer to the four engine mounting bracket-to-pump bolts, fit the bracket and tighten the bolts to the specified torque. Now tighten the two pump bolts fitted previously. 16 Refit the bolt securing the support strut to the rear of the pump housing.

17 Reconnect the inlet water hose. 18 Refit the lower backplate to the engine,

and secure with the three bolts. 19 Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, and refit the timing belt. 20 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt and refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1.

“T” Series engines

Removal

21 Drain the cooling system as described in

Chapter 1. 22 Slacken the clip and detach the water inlet hose from the rear of the pump cover

(see illustration). 23 Undo the five bolts and remove the pump

cover from the housing. 24 Withdraw the pump assembly from the housing and, where fitted, collect and discard the three sealing rings. The sealing rings are used on factory assembly, but Loctite sealer is used instead, when the pump is refitted or renewed in service. 25 Thoroughly clean the sealing ring grooves, removing all traces of any old sealant (if the pump has been removed previously).

Refitting

26 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but

apply Loctite 405 to the sealing ring grooves, and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque. Refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1 on completion.

3•8 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

9.22 Water pump components on the “T” series engine

1 Hose clip 2 Water inlet hose 3 Pump cover retaining bolts

4 Water pump cover 5 Water pump

6 Sealing rings 7 Inner sealing ring

9.13 Apply RTV sealant to the cylinder block mating face

9.8 Undo the remaining two bolts securing the water pump to the cylinder block

9.7 Undo the four bolts securing the righthand engine mounting bracket to the

water pump

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

9.6 Undo the bolt (arrowed) securing the support strut to the housing

H27493

10 Water pump (V6 engines) -

removal and refitting

Note: Due to the layout of the V6 engine and the limited space available in the engine compartment, access to most components is extremely limited and may present unforseen difficulties. Read through all the relevant procedures and familiarize yourself with what’s involved before proceeding. Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work.

Removal

1 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1. 2 Remove the timing belt and timing belt tensioner as described in Chapter 2, Part B. 3 Undo the nine bolts securing the water pump to the engine front plate, noting that two are of a different length than the rest (see

illustration). 4 Withdraw the water pump and recover the

large sealing O-ring. 5 Thoroughly clean the mating faces, locating dowels and O-ring recesses.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a new sealing O-ring, and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque. Refit the timing belt and tensioner as described in Chapter 2,

Part B, and refill the cooling system as described in Chapter 1.

11 Heater/ventilation

components -

removal and refitting

Heater blower motor and housing assembly

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead

(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Remove the trim panel under the facia on the passenger’s side.

3 Open the glovebox, undo the two screws securing the glovebox bar, and remove the glovebox. 4 Disconnect the air duct from the side of the unit, and recover the seals (see illustration). 5 Release the screw cap and undo the facia retaining bolt at the extreme end, adjacent to the door aperture. 6 Disconnect the blower motor wiring multiplug (see illustration). 7 Disconnect the vacuum hose at the solenoid (see illustration). 8 Undo the two upper bolts and one lower nut securing the heater housing assembly in position, and remove the unit from under the facia (see illustrations).

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•9

11.4 Exploded view of the heater blower motor housing assembly

10.3 Water pump retaining bolts (arrowed) on V6 engines

11.8a Undo the two upper bolts (arrowed) . . .

11.7 Solenoid vacuum hose (arrowed)11.6 Blower motor wiring multiplug

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Fan 2 Relay 3 Air box 4 Vacuum actuator 5 Vacuum solenoid 6 Seal 7 Harness 8 Gasket 9 Air flap 10 Air duct 11 Control assembly 12 Distribution cable 13 Temperature cable

Refitting

9 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Heater blower motor

Removal

10 Remove the blower motor and housing

assembly from the car as described previously. 11 Extract the clips securing the two halves of the housing assembly, and lift off the upper half.

12 Remove the separator plate.

13 Undo the nut and remove the fan from the

motor. 14 Disconnect the cooling hose and wiring multiplug from the side of the motor. 15 Undo the motor retaining nuts, withdraw the motor and collect the gasket.

Refitting

16 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Heater matrix

Removal

17 Remove the facia as described in Chap-

ter 11. 18 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1. 19 From within the engine compartment, disconnect the heater hoses at the matrix pipe stubs. 20 Remove the duct between the heater blower motor assembly and the matrix housing. Collect the two seals. 21 Extract the retaining stud from the driver’s side footwell duct and remove the duct (see

illustration). 22 Extract the two studs securing the rear

compartment duct to the matrix casing, and slide the duct rearwards.

23 Remove the two retaining clips at the base of the matrix housing. 24 Undo the two upper retaining bolts and remove the matrix housing from the car (see

illustration). 25 Remove the seal from the top of the

housing. 26 Undo the screw and remove the left-hand duct. 27 Release the clips around the upper face aperture, and remove the face panel. 28 Release the clips securing the two halves of the matrix housing, and separate the housing.

29 Remove the matrix.

Refitting

30 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Heater vacuum servo

Removal

31 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)

lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 32 Remove the trim panel under the facia on the passenger’s side. 33 Open the glovebox, undo the two screws securing the glovebox bar, and remove the glovebox. 34 Disconnect the air duct from the side of the heater blower assembly, and recover the two seals. 35 Disconnect the vacuum hose at the servo unit. 36 Extract the retaining spire clip, and release the servo arm from the heater lever. 37 Undo the two screws and remove the servo from the heater assembly.

Refitting

38 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Heater solenoid valve

Removal

39 Proceed as described in paragraphs 31 to

34 above. 40 Disconnect the vacuum hose at the solenoid valve.

41 Disconnect the solenoid wiring multiplug. 42 Undo the retaining screw and remove the

solenoid from the car.

Refitting

43 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

3•10 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

11.24 Matrix housing upper retaining bolts (arrowed)

11.21 Exploded view of the matrix and housing assembly

1 Housing assembly 2 Clip 3 Blend lever

4 Distribution lever 5 Heater matrix 6 Duct

7 Duct 8 Duct 9 Duct joint

11.8b . . . and lower nut (arrowed)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

12 Heater/air conditioning

controls -

removal and refitting

Heater control unit and cables

Removal

1 Remove the cowl around the instrument

panel as described in Chapter 12, Section 9. 2 Remove the trim panel under the facia on the driver’s side. 3 Extract the outer cable retaining clips, and slip the cable ends off the heater levers. 4 Withdraw the control unit and cables from the facia. 5 Release the two inner and outer cables from the control unit.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. When

connecting the heater cables, adjust the position of the outer cables in their retaining clips so as to give full travel of the heater levers, consistent with full travel of the control levers.

Air conditioning control unit

7 Refer to “Instrument cowl switch units” in Chapter 12, Section 4.

13 Air conditioning system -

general information and precautions

General information

The air conditioning system consists of a condenser mounted in front of the radiator, an evaporator mounted adjacent to the heater matrix, a compressor mounted on the engine, a receiver/dryer, and the plumbing connecting all of the above components (see illustration).

A blower fan forces the warmer air of the passenger compartment through the evaporator core (rather like a radiator in reverse), transferring the heat from the air to the refrigerant. The liquid refrigerant boils off into low-pressure vapour, taking the heat with it when it leaves the evaporator.

Two versions of the system are used, the change point being on models from VIN 152206 onwards. Both versions are virtually identical in component layout apart from minor differences in the condenser pipe connections. The main difference, however is that the later version uses the more environmentally friendly R134a refrigerant whereas the early version uses the ozonedepleting R12.

Precautions

Warning: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. Do not loosen any fittings or remove any components until

after the system has been discharged. Air conditioning refrigerant should be properly discharged into an approved type of container, at a dealer service department or an automotive air conditioning repair facility capable of handling the refrigerant safely. Always wear eye protection when disconnecting air conditioning system fittings.

When an air conditioning system is fitted, it is necessary to observe the following special precautions whenever dealing with any part of the system, its associated components, and any items which necessitate disconnection of the system:

(a) While the refrigerant used on later models

- R134a - is less damaging to the environment than the previously-used R12, both are very dangerous substances. They must not be allowed into contact with the skin or eyes, or there is a risk of frostbite. They must also not be

discharged in an enclosed space as there is a risk of suffocation. The refrigerant is heavier than air, and so must never be discharged over a pit.

(b) The refrigerant must not be allowed to

come in contact with a naked flame, otherwise a poisonous gas will be created

- under certain circumstances, this can form an explosive mixture with air. For similar reasons, smoking in the presence of refrigerant is highly dangerous, particularly if the vapour is inhaled through a lighted cigarette.

atmosphere - R134a is not an ozonedepleting ChloroFluoroCarbon (CFC) as is R12, but is instead a hydrofluorocarbon, which causes environmental damage by contributing to the “greenhouse effect” if released into the atmosphere.

(d) R134a refrigerant must not be mixed with

R12; the system uses different seals and

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•11

13.1 Air conditioning system layout (V6 engine installation shown - 4-cylinder engine installation similar)

1 Compressor 2 Condenser 3 Cooling fans (behind

radiator) 4 Receiver/drier 5 Evaporator

6 Thermostatic expansion

valve 7 Thermistor 8 Heater distribution and

blend unit

9 Blower unit

10 High and low pressure

servicing connections 11 High pressure switch 12 Dual pressure switch

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

has different fittings requiring different tools, so that there is no chance of the two types of refrigerant becoming mixed accidentally.

(e) If for any reason the system must be

disconnected, entrust this task to your Rover dealer or a refrigeration engineer.

(f) It is essential that the system be

professionally discharged prior to using any form of heat - welding, soldering, brazing, etc - in the vicinity of the system, before having the vehicle oven-dried at a temperature exceeding 70ºC after repainting, and before disconnecting any part of the system.

14 Air conditioning system

components -

removal and refitting

Warning: Refer to the precautions given in the previous Section before proceeding.

Condenser

Removal

1 Have the refrigerant discharged at a dealer

service department or an automotive air conditioning repair facility. 2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (see Chapter 5, Section 1).

3 On pre-1992 model year vehicles, remove the radiator grille as described in Chapter 11, Section 19. 4 Undo the two bolts each side securing the centre platform to the body side members. 5 Undo the two nuts securing the condenser to the front of the centre platform (see

illustration). 6 Undo the nut and retaining bolt securing

the bonnet safety catch to the centre platform. 7 Cut off the cable ties securing the various hoses to the centre platform. 8 Lift the centre platform upwards, turn it over, and cut off the cable ties securing the bonnet release cable to the platform underside. Remove the platform from the car. 9 On early models, using two spanners, one to unscrew the union nut and a second to counterhold the relevant pipe, unscrew the pipe unions on the front of the condenser. Where fitted, recover the O-rings from the pipe unions. Plug or cover the open pipes and condenser ports. On later models, undo the two pipe union retaining bolts and release the pipes. Recover the O-rings from the pipe connector ends. 10 Undo the bolts from the pipe support brackets and move the disconnected pipes aside. 11 Lift the condenser upwards, and carefully remove it from the car.

Refitting

12 Refitting the condenser is a reversal of

removal, but ensure that the lower mounting lugs engage in the rubber grommets, and the centre platform grommets locate over the radiator upper lugs. Re-secure the bonnet release cable and hoses to the centre platform, using new cable ties. Have the system evacuated, charged and leak-tested by the specialist who discharged it.

Compressor - 4-cylinder engines

Removal

13 Have the refrigerant discharged at a

dealer service department or an automotive air conditioning repair facility. 14 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (see Chapter 5, Section 1). 15 Raise the front of the vehicle and securely support it on axle stands. 16 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chapter 1). 17 Remove the alternator as described in Chapter 5. 18 Undo the bolts securing the alternator support bracket to the compressor and move the support bracket aside. 19 Disconnect the compressor clutch wiring at the in-line connector. 20 Unscrew the two pipe unions at the rear of the compressor and plug or cover the disconnected pipes and compressor ports. Where fitted, recover the O-rings from the pipe unions. 21 Undo the bolt securing the pipe bracket to the flange on the underside of the compressor. 22 Undo the upper and lower compressor mounting nuts and bolts and remove the unit upwards off the engine.

Refitting

23 Refitting the compressor is a reversal of

removal. Tighten the unions and mountings to the specified torque. Have the system evacuated, charged and leak-tested by the specialist who discharged it.

Compressor - V6 engines

Removal

24 Have the refrigerant discharged at a

dealer service department or an automotive air conditioning repair facility. 25 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (see Chapter 5, Section 1). 26 Raise the front of the vehicle and securely support it on axle stands. 27 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chapter 1). 28 Disconnect the compressor clutch wiring at the in-line connector (see illustration). 29 Undo the four compressor mounting bolts and withdraw the compressor from the mounting bracket. 30 Undo the two bolts and release the pipe mounting flanges from the compressor. Recover the O-rings from the pipe unions and plug or cover the disconnected pipes and compressor ports.

3•12 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

14.5 Air conditioning condenser mounting and attachment details (early version shown)

1 Condenser-to-centre

platform retaining nuts 2 Centre platform 3 Pipe union nut

4 Pipe union nut 5 Pipe union nut 6 Bracket

7 Condenser 8 Lower mounting lug rubber

grommets

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

31 Working under the car, place a jack and block of wood under the engine to support it, then unscrew the eight bolts that secure the engine longitudinal support member by approximately 15 mm - it should not be necessary to remove the bolts. Have an assistant lever the support member down to give increased clearance, which will allow the compressor to be removed from the car.

Refitting

32 Refitting the compressor is a reversal of

removal. Tighten the unions and all mountings to the specified torque. Have the system evacuated, charged and leak-tested by the specialist who discharged it.

Receiver/dryer

Removal

33 Have the refrigerant discharged at a

dealer service department or an automotive air conditioning repair facility. 34 Unscrew the two pipe unions on top of the receiver/dryer and plug or cover the disconnected pipes and receiver/dryer ports (see illustration). Recover the O-rings from the pipe unions. 35 Undo the three mounting bolts, move the adjacent components clear and remove the unit from the car.

Refitting

36 Refitting the receiver/dryer is a reversal of

removal. Tighten the unions and mountings to the specified torque. Have the system evacuated, charged and leak-tested by the specialist who discharged it.

Electric cooling fan assembly

37 Refer to Section 5.

Blower motor

Removal

38 Remove the trim panel under the facia on

the passenger’s side. 39 Disconnect the wiring multiplug from the motor socket. 40 Detach the hose from the motor and motor housing. 41 Undo the three bolts and remove the motor from the blower housing.

Refitting

42 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Evaporator

Removal

43 Have the refrigerant discharged at a

dealer service department or an automotive air conditioning repair facility. 44 Undo the five screws and remove the glovebox from the facia. 45 Remove the radio/cassette player and the clock as described in Chapter 12. 46 Undo the retaining screws and remove the glovebox bar. 47 From within the engine compartment unscrew the two pipe unions using two spanners, one to unscrew the union nut and a second to counterhold the relevant pipe. Recover the O-rings from the pipe unions. Plug or cover the disconnected pipes immediately. 48 Disconnect the thermistor wiring multiplug on the front face of the evaporator. 49 Undo the evaporator mounting nuts and bolts, noting the location of any cable support brackets and clips. 50 Disconnect the wiring at the connector multiplugs as the unit is withdrawn and remove the evaporator from the car.

Refitting

51 Refitting the evaporator is a reversal of

removal. Tighten the unions and mountings to the specified torque. Have the system evacuated, charged and leak-tested by the specialist who discharged it.

Blower housing

Removal

52 Remove the evaporator as described

previously. 53 Disconnect the wiring multiplugs, undo the mounting bolts and remove the unit from the car.

Refitting

54 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•13

14.28 Air conditioning compressor mountings and attachments on V6 engines

1 Tensioner pulley locknut 2 Tensioner adjuster bolt 3 Drivebelt

4 Wiring connector 5 Compressor mounting bolts 6 Compressor

7 Pipe mounting flange bolts 8 Mounting bracket bolts 9 Tensioner bracket bolt

14.34 Air conditioning receiver/dryer pipe unions (1) and mounting bolts (2)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

General

System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Indirect single-point injection with microprocessor control

ECU-controlled idle speed:

Manual transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 700 to 800 rpm

Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 650 to 750 rpm

Base idle speed:

Manual transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 625 to 675 rpm

Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 575 to 625 rpm

Idle mixture CO content . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 to 3.0%

Throttle potentiometer voltage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315 to 335 mV

Throttle lever lost motion gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 0.9 mm

Fuel octane rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 RON leaded or 95 RON unleaded

Fuel Pump

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nippon Denso, electric

Output pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.1 bar

Regulated pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2 bar

Delivery rate (at 1.2 bar and 12 volts) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 litres/hour

Voltage at pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0 to 10.0 volts

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Inlet air temperature sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5

Fuel filter banjo union bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37

Throttle body to manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Fuel pump banjo union bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Fuel tank drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37

Fuel tank strap locknuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Inlet manifold heater bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Exhaust front pipe to manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Exhaust section flange nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Exhaust heat shield retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Chapter 4 Part A: Fuel and exhaust systems – Single-point injection engines

Accelerator cable - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Accelerator pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Accelerator cable and linkage check and lubrication . . .See Chapter 1

Air cleaner assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2A

Exhaust system - general information and component renewal . . . . 13

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Fuel gauge sender unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Fuel injection system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Fuel injection system - testing and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Fuel injection system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 12

Fuel pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Fuel system - depressurisation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Fuel tank - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2A

Underbody fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . .See Chapter 1

Unleaded petrol - general information and usage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

4A•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Rover 800 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual