Rover 800 User Manual

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Rover 820, 825 & 827

Service and Repair Manual

J. S. Mead

Models covered

Rover 820, 825, 827 and Sterling models with 4-cylinder and V6 petrol engines,
including special/limited editions
1994 cc, 2494 cc & 2675 cc

Does not cover 8-valve carburettor (petrol) engine or Diesel-engined models

(1380-304-11AA3)

© Haynes Publishing 1997
A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted

in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including
photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system,
without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 273 8
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil,

Somerset BA22 7JJ
Haynes Publishing

Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

Editions Haynes S.A.

147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 Paris, France

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

Box 1504, 751 45 Uppsala, Sweden

ABCDE
FGHIJ
KLMNO
PQRST

1 2 3

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Contents

LIVING WITH YOUR ROVER

Introduction Page 0•4
Safety First! Page 0•5
General dimensions and weights Page 0•6

Roadside Repairs

Jacking, towing and wheel changing Page 0•7
Jump starting Page 0•9
Identifying leaks Page 0•10

Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system – precaution Page 0•10
Conversion Factors Page 0•11

ROUTINE MAINTENANCE

Routine maintenance and servicing

Routine maintenance Page 1•1
Servicing Specifications Page 1•2
Lubricants, fluids and capacities Page 1•3
Maintenance schedule Page 1•4
Maintenance procedures Page 1•8

Weekly checks Page 1•8
Every 6000 or six months Page 1•11
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months Page 1•13
Every 24 000 miles or 2 years Page 1•23
Every 48 000 miles Page 1•26
Every 60 000 miles or 5 years Page 1•26

REPAIRS & OVERHAUL

Engine and Associated Systems

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures Page 2A•1
V6 engine – in-car engine repair procedures Page 2B•1
Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures Page 2C•1
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Page 3•1
Fuel and exhaust systems – Single-point injection engines Page 4A•1
Fuel and exhaust systems – Lucas multi-point injection engines Page 4B•1
Fuel and exhaust systems – MEMS multi-point injection engines Page 4C•1
Fuel and exhaust systems – Honda PGM-Fi injection engines Page 4D•1
Fuel and exhaust systems – Emissions control systems Page 4E•1
Engine electrical systems Page 5•1

Transmission

Clutch Page 6•1
Manual transmission Page 7A•1
Automatic transmission Page 7B•1
Driveshafts Page 8•1

Brakes

Braking system Page 9•1

Suspension and Steering

Suspension and steering systems Page 10•1

Body Equipment

Bodywork and fittings Page 11•1
Body electrical systems Page 12•1

Wiring Diagrams Page 12•19

REFERENCE

MOT Test Checks Page REF•1
General Repair Procedures Page REF•5
Tools and Working Facilities Page REF•6
Buying Spare Parts and Vehicle Identification Numbers Page REF•9
Fault Finding Page REF•10
Glossary of Technical Terms Page REF•18

Index Page REF•23

Contents

Designed in conjunction with the Honda
Motor Company of Japan, the Rover 800
series was launched in the UK in July 1986 as
a replacement for the ageing Rover SD1.
Initially available in four-door Saloon guise, a
Fastback version was added to the range in
mid-1988. Minor styling revisions were
applied to various models in the intervening
years, culminating in a major facelift to all
models for the 1992 model year. This saw the
introduction of the “second generation” Rover
800 series with significant styling and
engineering revisions, together with the
launch of the Coupe model later in the same
year.

Three different engines are used in the
Rover models covered by this manual.
820 models are powered by a 2.0 litre,
4-cylinder, sixteen valve engine with single­point or multi-point fuel injection. The early
version of this power unit is based on the
proven O-series engine used previously in the
Montego and earlier Austin Rover vehicles,
but with an all new cylinder head and valve
train. For the 1992 model year the T-series
version was announced which shared many of
the O-series components but with significant
revisions in many areas. Both these engines

are available in normally aspirated or
turbocharged versions.

825, 827 and Sterling models are powered
by a 2.5 or 2.7 litre V6 twenty four valve
engine with programmed fuel injection. Both
versions of this engine are virtually identical
apart from an increase in cylinder bore
diameter to provide the larger capacity of the

2.7 litre unit.

On all models, the engine is mounted
transversely at the front of the car and drives
the front wheels through a five-speed manual,
or four speed automatic transmission.

Suspension is independent at the front by
double wishbones and coil springs, and at the
rear by transverse links and coil springs.
Power-assisted steering is standard on all
models.

A comprehensive range of electrical and
interior features are offered as standard
equipment, including electric front windows,
central locking and stereo radio cassette
player. Anti-lock braking, air conditioning,
headlight wash, electric rear windows, driver
and passenger airbags and many other
features and accessories are also available as
optional or standard equipment according to
model.

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug,
who supplied the illustrations showing spark
plug conditions. Thanks are also due to
Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who provided some
of the workshop tools, and to all those people
at Sparkford who helped in the production of
this manual.

We take great pride in the accuracy of
information given in this manual, but
vehicle manufacturers make alterations
and design changes during the production
run of a particular vehicle of which they do
not inform us. No liability can be accepted
by the authors or publishers for loss,
damage or injury caused by any errors in,
or omissions from, the information given.

Project vehicles

The main project vehicle used in the
preparation of this manual, and appearing in
many of the photographic sequences was a
1986 Rover 820 Se Saloon. Additional work
was carried out and photographed on a 1988
Rover 820 Si Fastback and a 1992 Rover
Sterling.

0•4 Introduction

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Introduction to the Rover 800 Series

Rover 820i Saloon Rover 800 Coupe

Safety First! 0•5

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Working on your car can be dangerous.
This page shows just some of the potential
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Scalding

• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion
tank cap while the engine is hot.

• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
power steering fluid may also be dangerously
hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs
and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.

Crushing

• When working under or near
a raised vehicle,
always
supplement the
jack with axle
stands, or use
drive-on
ramps.

Never
venture
under a car which
is only supported by a jack.

• Take care if loosening or tightening high­torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should
be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is
explosive.

• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.

• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks
(electrically or by use of tools).

• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.

• Another cause of fire is an electrical
overload or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.

• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock

• Ignition HT
voltage can be
dangerous,
especially to
people with heart
problems or a
pacemaker. Don’t
work on or near the
ignition system with
the engine running or
the ignition switched on.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication

• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they often
contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never run the
engine in a
confined space
such as a garage
with the doors shut.

• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.

• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a
barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil­soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in
your pocket.

• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
burns on contact.

Asbestos

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch linings.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Special hazards

Hydrofluoric acid

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
exposed to temperatures above 4000C. The
rubber changes into a charred or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,

the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
amputate the limb concerned.

• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.

The battery

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
when topping-up or carrying the battery.

• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
connecting and disconnecting battery
chargers or jump leads.

Air bags

• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
accidentally. Take care when removing the
steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
high pressure. Take care when working on
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands,
face or any other part of the body

to injector spray; the fuel can
penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
results.

Remember...

DO

• Do use eye protection when using power
tools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
protect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodically
that all is well when working alone on the
vehicle.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
working on the vehicle – especially the
electrical system.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
equipment has a safe working load rating
adequate for the job.

A few tips

DON’T

• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component
which may be beyond your capability – get
assistance.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take
unverified short cuts.

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip
and cause injury.

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around
where someone can trip over them. Mop
up oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or
near a vehicle being worked on.

0•6 General dimensions and weights

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Dimensions

Overall length:

Pre-1992 model year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4694.0 mm
1992 model year onwards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4882.0 mm

Overall width - including mirrors:

Pre-1992 model year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1946.0 mm
1992 model year onwards:

Saloon and Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1965.0 mm
Coupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1900.0 mm

Overall height (unladen):

Pre-1992 model year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1398.0 mm
1992 model year onwards:

Saloon and Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1363.0 mm

Coupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1400.0 mm
Wheelbase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2760.0 mm
Front track . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1490.0 mm
Rear track . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1450.0 mm
Ground clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145.0 mm

Weights

Kerb weight*:

820 Saloon models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1305 to 1405 kg
820 Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1335 to 1435 kg
820 Coupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1420 kg
825 and Sterling Saloon models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1360 to 1400 kg
827 and Sterling Saloon models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1400 to 1470 kg
827 and Sterling Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1410 to 1510 kg
827 Coupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1450 kg

Maximum roof rack load:

Saloon and Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 kg
Coupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 kg

Maximum towing weight:

820 models with manual transmission:

Braked trailer (all models except Turbo) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1550 kg

Braked trailer (Turbo models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1025 kg

Unbraked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 kg

820 models with automatic transmission:

Braked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1025 kg

Unbraked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 kg

825, 827 and Sterling models:

Braked trailer** . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1550 kg

Unbraked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 kg
Maximum towing hitch downward load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 kg

*Depending on model and specification - refer to Rover dealer for exact recommendations.
**On automatic transmission models, an auxiliary fluid cooler must be fitted if the towing weight is to exceed 1000 kg.

Roadside Repairs 0•7

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Jacking, towing and wheel changing

Jacking

The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit
should only be used for changing the
roadwheels - see “Wheel changing” later in
this Section. When carrying out any other kind
of work, raise the vehicle using a hydraulic (or
“trolley”) jack, and always supplement the
jack with axle stands positioned under the
vehicle jacking points (see illustration).

When using a hydraulic jack or axle stands,
always position the jack head or axle stand

head under one of the relevant jacking points.

To raise the front of the vehicle, position the
jack head under the front towing eye which is
welded to the longitudinal support member
running under the engine. Do not position the
jack under the longitudinal member itself, or
under the sump or any of the steering or
suspension components.

To raise the rear of the vehicle, position the
jack head under the rear towing eye which is
welded to the reinforcement panel under the
spare wheel carrier.

If the side of the vehicle is to be raised,
position the jack head under the reinforced
areas at the front or rear of the side sills.

The jack supplied with the vehicle also
locates in the reinforced areas of the side sills.
Ensure that the jack head is correctly engaged
before attempting to raise the vehicle.

Never work under, around or near a raised
vehicle unless it is adequately supported in at
least two places.

Jacking points and axle stand locations

1 Front towing eye - used for raising the front of the car
2 Reinforced sill area - used for raising the side of the car, or

supporting on axle stands

3 Front chassis member - used for supporting the car on axle

stands

4 Rear chassis member - used for supporting the car on axle stands

5 Reinforced sill area - used for raising the side of the car, or

supporting on axle stands
6 Rear towing eye - used for raising the rear of the car
7 Square tubular chassis sections - Not suitable for jacking or

supporting
8 Suspension components - Not suitable for jacking or supporting

0•8 Roadside Repairs

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Towing

Towing eyes are fitted to the front and rear
of the vehicle for attachment of a tow rope.
The front towing eye is situated under the
centre of the front bumper and the rear towing
eye is located under the centre of the rear
bumper behind a detachable trim plate.

Always turn the ignition key to position II to
ensure that the steering is unlocked and that
the various switches (indicators and lights) are
functional. It should also be noted that the
brake servo and power-assisted steering will
not be operating with the engine switched off
and therefore an allowance will need to be
made for reduced braking efficiency and
increased steering effort.

Before being towed, release the handbrake
and place the gear lever in neutral. Do not tow
at a speed greater than 30 mph. On no
account may the car be towed with the front
wheels on the ground if the transmission is
faulty, if the transmission oil or fluid is low or if
the towing distance is greater than 30 miles.

Wheel changing

To change a roadwheel, first remove the
spare wheel and jack which are located under
the luggage compartment floor (see
illustration). Firmly apply the handbrake and
engage first gear on manual transmission
models or PARK on automatic transmission
models. Place chocks at the front and rear of
the wheel diagonally opposite the one to be
changed.

Remove the wheel trim and slacken the
wheel nuts with the tools provided in the tool
kit. Position the jack head in the reinforced
jacking point, at the base of the sill nearest to
the wheel to be changed. Raise the jack to just
take the weight of the car. If the tyre is flat,
position the base of the jack so that it is flat on
the ground. If the tyre is not flat, position the
jack so that the base elbow is resting on the
ground and the base is just clear (see
illustration). Raise the vehicle until the wheel
is just clear of the ground, then remove the
wheel nuts and the wheel. Fit the spare wheel
and screw on the wheel nuts. Lower the jack
until the tyre is just touching the ground, and
tighten the wheel nuts moderately tight. Now
lower the jack fully and tighten the wheel nuts
securely in a diagonal sequence. Refit the
wheel trim, then remove the jack and stow it
together with the wheel and tools in the
luggage compartment. Remember to check

the tightness of the wheel nuts using a torque
wrench at the earliest opportunity.

Spare wheel and tool locations

1 Tool kit
2 Floor panel

3 Spare wheel clamp
4 Spare wheel

Using the vehicle tool kit jack

1 Jack base positioned flat on the ground (deflated tyre)
2 Jack positioned with base elbow on the ground, and base just clear (inflated tyre)

Roadside Repairs 0•9

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

When jump-starting a car using a
booster battery, observe the following
precautions:

4 Before connecting the booster

battery, make sure that the ignition is
switched off.

4 Ensure that all electrical equipment

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is
switched off.

4 Make sure that the booster battery is

the same voltage as the discharged
one in the vehicle.

4 If the battery is being jump-started

from the battery in another vehicle,
the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH
each other.

4 Make sure that the transmission is in

neutral (or PARK, in the case of
automatic transmission).

Jump starting will get you out
of trouble, but you must correct
whatever made the battery go
flat in the first place. There are

three possibilities:

1

The battery has been drained by
repeated attempts to start, or by

leaving the lights on.

2

The charging system is not working

properly (alternator drivebelt slack
or broken, alternator wiring fault or
alternator itself faulty).

3

The battery itself is at fault

(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead to
the positive (+) terminal of the flat
battery

Connect the other end of the red lead to
the positive (+) terminal of the booster
battery.

Connect one end of the black jump lead
to the negative (-) terminal of the
booster battery

Connect the other end of the black
jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the
engine block, well away from the
battery, on the vehicle to be started.

1

2

3

4

Make sure that the jump leads will not
come into contact with the fan, drive­belts or other moving parts of the
engine.

5

Start the engine using the booster
battery, then with the engine running at
idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in
the reverse order of connection.

6

Jump starting

Jump starting

0•10 Roadside Repairs

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or
obvious wetness under the bonnet or
underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs
investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to
decide where the leak is coming from,
especially if the engine bay is very dirty
already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown
rearwards by the passage of air under the car,
giving a false impression of where the
problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils
and fluids are poisonous. Wash
them off skin, and change out of
contaminated clothing, without
delay.

Identifying leaks

The smell of a fluid leaking
from the car may provide a
clue to what’s leaking. Some

fluids are distinctively
coloured. It may help to clean the car
carefully and to park it over some clean
paper overnight as an aid to locating the
source of the leak.

Remember that some leaks may only
occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil Gearbox oil

Brake fluid Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline
deposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the
inboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost
certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
connectors on the steering rack.

Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system - precaution

The radio/cassette unit fitted as standard
equipment by Rover is equipped with a built­in security code, to deter thieves. If the power
source to the unit is cut, the anti-theft system
will activate. Even if the power source is
immediately reconnected, the radio/cassette
unit will not function until the correct security

code has been entered. Therefore, if you do
not know the correct security code
for the radio/cassette unit do not
disconnect either of the battery terminals, or
remove the radio/cassette unit from the
vehicle.

To enter the correct security code, follow

the instructions provided with the
radio/cassette player handbook.

If an incorrect code is entered, the unit will

become locked, and cannot be operated.

If this happens, or if the security code is lost
or forgotten, seek the advice of your Rover
dealer.

Conversion Factors 0•11

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Length (distance)

Inches (in) x 25.4 = Millimetres (mm) x 0.0394 = Inches (in)
Feet (ft) x 0.305 = Metres (m) x 3.281 = Feet (ft)
Miles x 1.609 = Kilometres (km) x 0.621 = Miles

Volume (capacity)

Cubic inches (cu in; in3) x 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm3) x 0.061 = Cubic inches (cu in; in3)
Imperial pints (Imp pt) x 0.568 = Litres (l) x 1.76 = Imperial pints (Imp pt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt) x 1.137 = Litres (l) x 0.88 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt) x 1.201 = US quarts (US qt) x 0.833 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
US quarts (US qt) x 0.946 = Litres (l) x 1.057 = US quarts (US qt)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal) x 4.546 = Litres (l) x 0.22 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal) x 1.201 = US gallons (US gal) x 0.833 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
US gallons (US gal) x 3.785 = Litres (l) x 0.264 = US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight)

Ounces (oz) x 28.35 = Grams (g) x 0.035 = Ounces (oz)
Pounds (lb) x 0.454 = Kilograms (kg) x 2.205 = Pounds (lb)

Force

Ounces-force (ozf; oz) x 0.278 = Newtons (N) x 3.6 = Ounces-force (ozf; oz)
Pounds-force (lbf; lb) x 4.448 = Newtons (N) x 0.225 = Pounds-force (lbf; lb)
Newtons (N) x 0.1 = Kilograms-force (kgf; kg) x 9.81 = Newtons (N)

Pressure

Pounds-force per square inch x 0.070 = Kilograms-force per square x 14.223 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds-force per square inch x 0.068 = Atmospheres (atm) x 14.696 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds-force per square inch x 0.069 = Bars x 14.5 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds-force per square inch x 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa) x 0.145 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Kilopascals (kPa) x 0.01 = Kilograms-force per square x 98.1 = Kilopascals (kPa)

centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2)
Millibar (mbar) x 100 = Pascals (Pa) x 0.01 = Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar) x 0.0145 = Pounds-force per square inch x 68.947 = Millibar (mbar)

(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Millibar (mbar) x 0.75 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) x 1.333 = Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar) x 0.401 = Inches of water (inH2O) x 2.491 = Millibar (mbar)

Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) x 0.535 = Inches of water (inH

2

O) x 1.868 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)

Inches of water (inH2O) x 0.036 = Pounds-force per square inch x 27.68 = Inches of water (inH2O)

(psi; lbf/in

2

; lb/in2)

Torque (moment of force)

Pounds-force inches x 1.152 = Kilograms-force centimetre x 0.868 = Pounds-force inches
(lbf in; lb in) (kgf cm; kg cm) (lbf in; lb in)
Pounds-force inches x 0.113 = Newton metres (Nm) x 8.85 = Pounds-force inches

(lbf in; lb in) (lbf in; lb in)
Pounds-force inches x 0.083 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 12 = Pounds-force inches
(lbf in; lb in) (lbf in; lb in)
Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 0.138 = Kilograms-force metres x 7.233 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)

(kgf m; kg m)
Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 1.356 = Newton metres (Nm) x 0.738 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)
Newton metres (Nm) x 0.102 = Kilograms-force metres x 9.804 = Newton metres (Nm)

(kgf m; kg m)

Power

Horsepower (hp) x 745.7 = Watts (W) x 0.0013 = Horsepower (hp)

Velocity (speed)

Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph) x 1.609 = Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) x 0.621 = Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption*

Miles per gallon (mpg) x 0.354 = Kilometres per litre (km/l) x 2.825 = Miles per gallon (mpg)

Temperature

Degrees Fahrenheit = (°C x 1.8) + 32 Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) x 0.56

* It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (l/100km), where mpg x l/100 km = 282

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1

Engine

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)
Oil filter:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion B101
V6 engines:

paper type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X119
cannister type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion E102

Cooling system

Coolant protection at 33% antifreeze/water mixture ratio:

Slush point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -19ºC (-2ºF)
Solidifying point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -36ºC (-33ºF)

Coolant protection at 50% antifreeze/water mixture ratio:

Slush point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -36ºC (-33ºF)
Solidifying point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -48ºC (-54ºF)

Fuel system

Air filter element:

“M” series 4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W114
“T” series 4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available
V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W601

Fuel filter:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L208
V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L207

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Accelerator cable and linkage check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Air conditioning system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Automatic transmission fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Auxiliary drivebelts check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Battery check, maintenance and charging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Braking system hydraulic fluid seal check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . 40
Clutch operation and hydraulic hose condition check . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Cooling system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Door, boot, tailgate and bonnet check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Driveshaft rubber gaiter and CV joint check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Emissions control equipment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Engine base idle speed and CO content check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Engine compartment wiring check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Manual transmission oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Manual transmission oil renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Roadwheel nut tightness check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Routine maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Steering, suspension and roadwheel check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Timing belt condition and tension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Tyre and tyre pressure checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Underbody and fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . . . . . . . . . . 8
Windscreen/tailgate and headlight washer system and wiper

blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

1•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY
or professional

Degrees of difficulty

5

4

3

2

1

Ignition system

Firing order:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)
V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-4-2-5-3-6 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end on rear bank)

Spark plugs:

Type: *

4-cylinder normally aspirated engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC9YCC
4-cylinder turbocharged engines up to 1992 model year . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC
4-cylinder turbocharged engines 1992 model year onwards . . . . . Champion RC9YCC
V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC9YCC4

Electrode gap: *

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm
V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

Spark plug (HT) leads:

Type:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-05 boxed set
V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion boxed set not available

Maximum resistance per lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 000 ohms

* Information on spark plug types and electrode gaps is as recommended by Champion Spark Plug.
Where alternative types are used, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations

Braking system

Front brake pad thickness (including backing but excluding shims):

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17.4 mm
Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.2 mm

Rear brake pad thickness (including backing):

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14.5 mm
Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.2 mm

Tyres

Tyre pressures (cold): Front Rear

195/70 VR 14 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 bar (26 psi) 1.8 bar (26 psi)
195/65 VR 15 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar (28 psi) 2.0 bar (28 psi)
205/55 VR or ZR 16 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.2 bar (32 psi)
205/60 VR 15 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar (28 psi) 2.0 bar (28 psi)
215/45 ZR 17 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 bar (34 psi) 1.9 bar (28 psi)
115/70 R 15 (space saver spare tyre) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.1 bar (60 psi) 4.1 bar (60 psi)

Note: For sustained high speeds above 100 mph (160 km/h), increased pressures are necessary.
Consult the driver’s handbook supplied with the vehicle.

Wiper blades

Windscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-5103
Tailgate/rear window . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-5103

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Power steering pump bolts:

4-cylinder engines - rear-mounted pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
4-cylinder engines - front-mounted pump:

Early version (4 mounting bolts) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Later version (5 mounting bolts) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

V6 engines:

Mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 29

Adjusting nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16
Power steering pump drivebelt tensioner wheel retaining
nut (4-cylinder engines - rear mounted pump) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33
Alternator pivot and mounting bolts (4-cylinder engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Alternator adjustment bracket bolts (4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9
Alternator side pivot bolt (V6 engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33
Alternator lower mounting nut (V6 engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 17
Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33
Manual transmission filler/level and drain plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33
Automatic transmission drain plugs:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11
V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Spark plugs:

4-cylinder engines up to 1991 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13
4-cylinder engines from 1991 onward . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81

1•2 Specifications

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Lubricants and fluids

Component or system Lubricant type/specification

1 Engine Multigrade engine oil to specification API SG/CD or better,

viscosity range 5W/50 to 10W/40

2 Cooling system Soft water, and antifreeze (ethylene glycol-based, suitable

for use in mixed-metal cooling systems)

3 Manual transmission Multigrade engine oil to specification API SG/CD or better,

viscosity 10W/40

4 Automatic transmission Dexron IID type ATF
5 Power steering fluid reservoir Dexron IID type ATF
6 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir Hydraulic fluid to FMVSS 116 DOT 4
General greasing Multipurpose lithium based grease

Capacities

Engine oil (including filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litres
Cooling system:

4-cylinder engines:

“M” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 litres
“T” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 litres

V6 engines:

2.5 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 litres

2.7 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.6 litres
Manual transmission (drain and refill) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 litres
Automatic transmission (drain and refill):

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litres

V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.2 litres
Power steering reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 litres
Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 litres

Lubricants, fluids and capacities 1•3

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Rover 800 Series maintenance schedule

1•4 Maintenance and servicing

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

The manufacturer’s recommended maintenance schedule for
these vehicles is as described below - note that the schedule starts
from the vehicle’s date of registration. These are the minimum
maintenance intervals recommended by the factory for vehicles
driven daily, but subjected only to “normal” use. If you wish to keep
your car in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some
of these procedures even more often. Because frequent maintenance
enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your car,
we encourage you to do so. If your usage is not “normal”, shorter
intervals are also recommended - the most important examples of

these are noted in the schedule. These shorter intervals apply
particularly if you drive in dusty areas, tow a caravan or trailer, sit
with the engine idling or drive at low speeds for extended periods (ie,
in heavy traffic), or drive for short distances (less than four miles) in
below-freezing temperatures.

Although the manufacturer’s intervals have been extended to one
main service at 12 000 mile (12 monthly) intervals for 1994 models
onward, the earlier schedule which also includes a lubrication service
at 6000 mile (6 monthly) intervals, is the schedule shown in this
Chapter.

W eekly checks

mm Check the engine oil level, and top-up if necessary

(Section 3).

mm Check the brake fluid level, and top-up if necessary

(Section 3). If repeated topping-up is required, check the
system for leaks or damage at the earliest possible
opportunity (Section 24).

mm Check the windscreen/tailgate and headlight washer fluid

level, and top-up if necessary (Section 3).

mm Check the tyre pressures, including the spare (Section 4).
mm Visually check the tyres for excessive tread wear, or

damage (Section 4).

mm Check the operation of all (exterior and interior) lights and

the horn, wipers and windscreen/tailgate washer system
(Sections 6 and 13).

mm Renew any blown bulbs (Chapter 12), and clean the

lenses of all exterior lights.

mm Check the coolant level, and top-up if necessary (Sec-

tion 3).

mm Check the battery electrolyte level, where applicable

(Section 3).

mm Check the power steering fluid level, and top-up if

necessary (Section 5).

mm Check the aim of the windscreen/tailgate/headlight

washer jets, correcting them if required (Section 6).

mm Check the condition of the wiper blades, renewing them if

worn or no longer effective (Section 6).

mm Visually check all reservoirs, hoses and pipes for leakage

(Section 8).

mm Check the operation of the air conditioning system (where

applicable) (Section 18).

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or
12 months, whichever occurs first

mm Check the cooling system (Section 9).
mm Check the operation of the accelerator cable and linkage

(Section 10).

mm Renew the spark plugs (models without emission control

equipment) (Section 11).

mm Renew the air cleaner filter element (models without

emission control equipment) (Section 12).

mm Check the electrical system (Section 13).
mm Check the battery (Section 14).
mm Check the seat belts (Section 15).
mm Check the auxiliary drivebelt(s) (Section 16).
mm Check the condition of all engine compartment wiring

(Section 17).

mm Check the condition of all air conditioning system

components (where applicable) (Section 18).

mm Check the engine idle speed and mixture (where

applicable) (Section 19).

mm Check the manual transmission oil level (Section 20).
mm Check the steering, suspension and roadwheels (Sec-

tion 21).

mm Check the driveshaft rubber gaiters and CV joints (Sec-

tion 22).

mm Check the exhaust system (Section 23).
mm Check the underbody, and all fuel/brake lines (Sec-

tion 24).

mm Check the clutch operation and hydraulic hose condition

(Section 25).

mm Check the brake system (Section 26).
mm Check the doors and bonnet, and lubricate their hinges

and locks (Section 27).

mm Check the condition of the bodywork and all exterior trim

(Section 28).

mm Check the security of all roadwheel nuts (Section 29).
mm Road test (Section 30).
mm Check the level of the automatic transmission fluid after

road test (Section 31).

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or
6 months, whichever occurs first

mm Change the engine oil and filter (Section 7).
mm Check under the bonnet for fluid leaks and hose condition

(Section 8).

Maintenance and servicing 1•5

1 Vehicle identification plate
2 Screen washer reservoir filler
3 Power steering fluid reservoir

filler

4 Cooling system expansion tank

filler

5 Front shock absorber top

mounting

6 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir

filler
7 Brake master cylinder
8 Vacuum servo unit
9 Fuel filter
10 Power steering pump drivebelt

(early models)
11 Distributor cap
12 Ignition coil
13 Brake pressure reducing valve
14 Fuse and relay box
15 Battery negative terminal
16 Battery positive terminal
17 Ignition/fuel ECU
18 Air cleaner assembly
19 Radiator cooling fan
20 Air cleaner intake trunking
21 Engine oil dipstick
22 Alternator
23 Thermostat housing
24 Engine oil filler cap

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or
2 years, whichever occurs first

mm Renew the spark plugs (models with emission control

equipment) (Section 11).

mm Renew the air cleaner filter element (models with emission

control equipment) (Section 12).

mm Check the condition and tension of the timing belt

(Section 32).

mm Check the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system (Section 33).
mm Renew the fuel filter (Section 34).
mm Renew the automatic transmission fluid (Section 35).
mm Renew the brake fluid (Section 36).
mm Renew the manual transmission oil (Section 37).
mm Renew the coolant (Section 38).

Every 48 000 miles (80 000 km)

mm Renew the timing belt (Section 39).

Every 60 000 miles (100 000 km) or
5 years, whichever occurs first

mm Renew the braking system rubber seals (recommendation

only) (Section 40).

mm Check the operation of the emission control equipment

(Section 41).

Engine compartment component locations ­4-cylinder engine models with single-point fuel injection

1•6 Maintenance and servicing

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Vehicle identification plate
2 Screen washer reservoir filler
3 Power steering fluid reservoir

filler

4 Cooling system expansion tank

filler

5 Front shock absorber top

mounting

6 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir

filler
7 Brake master cylinder
8 Vacuum servo unit
9 Fuel filter
10 Ignition system ECU
11 Ignition coil
12 Brake pressure reducing valve
13 Fuse and relay box
14 Battery negative terminal
15 Battery positive terminal
16 Air cleaner assembly
17 Radiator cooling fan
18 Air cleaner intake trunking
19 Engine oil dipstick
20 Airflow meter
21 Throttle housing
22 Plenum chamber
23 Engine oil filler cap
24 Alternator
25 Power steering pump (later

models)

Engine compartment component locations ­4-cylinder engine models with multi-point fuel injection

1 Engine oil dipstick
2 Screen washer reservoir filler
3 Power steering fluid reservoir

filler
4 Cooling system expansion tank

filler
5 Alternator
6 Power steering pump
7 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir

filler
8 Fuel filter
9 Control box
10 Ignition coil
11 Throttle body
12 ABS modulator
13 Fuse and relay box
14 Battery negative terminal
15 Battery positive terminal
16 Air cleaner assembly
17 Engine oil filler cap

Engine compartment component locations - V6 engine models

Maintenance and servicing 1•7

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Engine undertray
2 Front towing eye
3 Longitudinal support member
4 Clutch slave cylinder
5 Reversing light switch
6 Front tie-bar
7 Transmission drain plug
8 Inner constant velocity joint
9 Transmission filler plug
10 Front anti-roll bar
11 Gearchange rod
12 Steady rod
13 Fuel pipes
14 Exhaust section flange joint
15 Power steering gear
16 Steering track rod
17 Front lower suspension arm
18 Brake caliper
19 Oil filter
20 Driveshaft damper
21 Engine oil drain plug

Underside view at front end showing component locations on
4-cylinder engine models

1 Exhaust intermediate section
2 Fuel tank
3 Exhaust rear heat shield
4 Handbrake cable
5 Fuel pipes
6 Trailing link
7 Fuel filler neck connection
8 Transverse link
9 Fuel tank retaining straps
10 Rear anti-roll bar
11 Rear silencer
12 Brake caliper

Underside view at rear end

3 Fluid level checks

1

General

1 Fluids are an essential part of the
lubrication, cooling, braking and other
systems. Because these fluids gradually
become depleted and/or contaminated during
normal operation of the vehicle, they must be
periodically replenished. See “Lubricants,
fluids and capacities” at the beginning of this
Chapter before adding fluid to any of the
following components. Note: The vehicle

must be on level ground before fluid levels can
be checked.

Engine oil

2 The engine oil level is checked with a
dipstick located at the front of the engine in
the centre, or on the right-hand side (see
illustration). The dipstick extends through a
metal tube, from which it protrudes down into
the sump at the bottom of the engine.
3 The oil level should be checked before the
vehicle is driven, or about 5 minutes after the
engine has been switched off. If the level is
checked immediately after driving the vehicle,
some of the oil will remain in the engine upper
components, producing an inaccurate
reading.
4 Pull the dipstick from the tube, and wipe all
the oil from the end with a clean rag or paper
towel; note the dipstick’s maximum and
minimum levels, indicated by holes on the
dipstick (see illustration). Insert the clean
dipstick all the way back into its metal tube,

and pull it out again. Observe the oil on the
end of the dipstick; its level should be
between these two holes.
5 Do not allow the level to drop below the
minimum level notch, or oil starvation may
cause engine damage. Conversely, overfilling

the engine (adding oil above the maximum
level notch) may cause oil-fouled spark plugs,
oil leaks or oil seal failures.
6 The oil filler cap is screwed into the right­hand front end of the valve cover; unscrew it
to add oil (see illustrations). When topping-

Maintenance procedures

1•8 Maintenance and servicing

3.6b . . . and on V6 engines3.6a Topping up the engine oil on 4-

cylinder engines . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain the Rover 800 Series
models for peak performance, economy,
safety and long life.

Contained in this Chapter is a master
maintenance schedule, followed by Sections
dealing specifically with each item on the
schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,
component replacement and other helpful
items are included. Refer to the
accompanying illustrations of the engine
compartment and the underside of the vehicle
for the location of various components.

Servicing your Rover in accordance with
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections will provide it with a

planned maintenance programme, which
should result in a long and reliable service life.
This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining
some items but not others at the specified
service intervals will not produce the same
results.

As you service your car, you will discover
that many of the procedures can - and should ­be grouped together, because of the nature of
the particular procedure you’re performing, or
because of the close proximity to one another
of two otherwise-unrelated components.

For example, if the vehicle is raised for any
reason, you should inspect the exhaust,
suspension, steering and fuel systems while
you’re under the vehicle. When you’re
checking the tyres, it makes good sense to
check the brakes and wheel bearings,
especially if the roadwheels have already
been removed.

Finally, let’s suppose you have to borrow or

hire a torque wrench. Even if you only need to
tighten the spark plugs, you might as well
check the torque of as many critical fasteners
as time allows.

2 Routine maintenance

The first step of this maintenance
programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the
Sections which are relevant to the procedures
you’re planning to carry out, then make a list
of, and gather together, all the parts and tools
you will need to do the job. If it looks as if you
might run into problems during a particular
segment of some procedure, seek advice
from your local parts man or dealer service
department.

Weekly checks

3.4 Note the dipstick’s maximum and

minimum levels, indicated by holes on the

dipstick

3.2 Engine oil dipstick location (arrowed)
on V6 engines

up, use only the correct grade and type of oil,
as given in the “Lubricants, fluids and
capacities” Section of this Chapter; use a
funnel if necessary to prevent spills. After
adding the oil, refit the filler cap hand-tight.
Start the engine, and allow it to idle while the
oil is redistributed around the engine - while
you are waiting, look carefully for any oil leaks,
particularly around the oil filter or drain plug.
Stop the engine; check the oil level again,
after the oil has had enough time to drain from
the upper block and cylinder head galleries.
7 Checking the oil level is an important
preventive maintenance step. A continually­dropping oil level indicates oil leakage through
damaged seals and from loose connections,
or oil consumption past worn piston rings or
valve guides. If the oil looks milky in colour, or
has water droplets in it, the cylinder head
gasket may be blown - the engine’s
compression pressure should be checked
immediately (see Chapter 2). The condition of
the oil should also be checked. Each time you
check the oil level, slide your thumb and index
finger up the dipstick before wiping off the oil.
If you see small dirt or metal particles clinging
to the dipstick, the oil should be changed.

Coolant

Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank filler
cap, or to disturb any part of the

cooling system, while it or the
engine is hot, as there is a very great risk
of scalding.

8 All vehicles covered by this manual are
equipped with a sealed, pressurised cooling
system. A translucent plastic expansion tank,
located on the right-hand side of the engine
compartment, is connected by a hose to the
thermostat housing or radiator top hose. As
the coolant heats up during engine operation,
surplus coolant passes through the
connecting hose into the expansion tank. As
the engine cools, the coolant is automatically
drawn back into the cooling system’s main
components, to maintain the correct level.
9 While the coolant level must be checked
regularly, remember that it will vary with the
temperature of the engine. When the engine is
cold, the level should be up to the pipe outlet
on the side of the tank, but once the engine
has warmed up, the level may rise to above
this level.
10 For an accurate check of the coolant level,
the engine must be cold and the level must be
up to the pipe outlet. If it is below this level, the
coolant must be topped-up as follows.
11 First prepare a sufficient quantity of
coolant mixture, using clean, soft water and
antifreeze of the recommended type, in the
specified mixture ratio. If only a small amount
of coolant is required to bring the system up
to the proper level, plain water can be used,
but repeatedly doing this will dilute the
antifreeze/water solution in the system,
reducing the protection it should provide
against freezing and corrosion. To maintain

the specified antifreeze/water ratio, it is
essential to top-up the coolant level with the
correct mixture, as described here. Use only
ethylene/glycol type antifreeze, and do not
use supplementary inhibitors or additives.

Warning: Never remove the
expansion tank filler cap when
the engine is running, or has

just been switched off, as the
cooling system will be hot, and the
consequent escaping steam and scalding
coolant could cause serious injury.

12 If topping-up is necessary, wait until the
system has cooled completely (or at least 10
minutes after switching off the engine, if lack of
time means it is absolutely necessary to top-up
while the engine may still be warm). Wrap a
thick cloth around the expansion tank filler cap,
and unscrew it one full turn. If any hissing is
heard as steam escapes, wait until the hissing
ceases, indicating that pressure is released,
then slowly unscrew the filler cap until it can be
removed. If more hissing sounds are heard,
wait until they have stopped before unscrewing
the filler cap completely. At all times, keep your
face, hands and other exposed skin well away
from the filler opening.
13 When the filler cap has been removed,
add coolant to bring the level up to the outlet
pipe level (see illustration). Refit the cap,
tightening it securely.
14 With this type of cooling system, the
addition of coolant should only be necessary
at very infrequent intervals. If topping-up is
regularly required, or if the coolant level drops
within a short time after replenishment, there
may be a leak in the system.
15 Inspect the radiator, hoses, expansion
tank filler cap, radiator drain plug and water
pump. If no leak is evident, have the filler cap
and the entire system pressure-tested by your
dealer or garage; this will usually show up a
small leak not otherwise visible.

Windscreen/tailgate and
headlight washer fluid

16 Fluid for the windscreen/tailgate/headlight
washer system is stored in a plastic reservoir,
the filler neck of which is located at the right­hand front corner of the engine compartment.
17 To check the fluid level, release the cap
and observe the level in the reservoir by
looking down the filler neck. In milder

climates, plain water can be used to top-up
the reservoir, but the reservoir should be kept
no more than two-thirds full, to allow for
expansion should the water freeze. In colder
climates, the use of a specially-formulated
windscreen washer fluid, available at your
dealer or any car accessory shop, will help
lower the freezing point of the fluid. Do not
use regular (engine) antifreeze - it will damage
the vehicle’s paintwork.

Battery electrolyte

18 On models not equipped with a sealed
battery (see Section 9), check the electrolyte
level of all six battery cells. The level must be
approximately 10 mm above the plates; this
may be shown by maximum and minimum
level lines marked on the battery’s casing. If
the level is low, use a coin to release the
filler/vent cap, and add distilled water. Install
and retighten the cap.

Caution: Overfilling the cells may cause
electrolyte to spill over during periods of
heavy charging, causing corrosion or
damage. Refer to the warning at the
beginning of Section 9.

Brake fluid

19 The brake fluid reservoir is located on the
top of the brake master cylinder, attached to
the front of the vacuum servo unit. The “MAX”
and “MIN” marks are indicated on the side of
the translucent reservoir, and the fluid level
should be maintained between these marks at
all times.
20 The brake fluid inside the reservoir is
readily visible. With the vehicle on level
ground, the level should be on or just below
the “MAX” mark.
21 Progressive wear of the brake pad linings
causes the level of the brake fluid to gradually
fall; however, when the brake pads are
renewed, the original level of the fluid is
restored. It is not therefore necessary to top­up the level to compensate for this minimal
drop, but the level must never be allowed to
fall below the minimum mark.
22 If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the
area around the filler cap with a clean rag before
removing the cap - do not invert the cap after
removal. When adding fluid, pour it carefully
into the reservoir, to avoid spilling it on
surrounding painted surfaces (see illustration).

Weekly Checks 1•9

3.22 Topping up the brake master cylinder
reservoir

3.13 Topping up the cooling system

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Be sure to use only the specified hydraulic fluid
(see “Lubricants, fluids and capacities” at the
start of this Chapter) since mixing different
types of fluid can cause damage to the system.

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid
can harm your eyes and damage
painted surfaces, so use

extreme caution when handling
and pouring it. Wash off spills immediately
with plenty of water. Do not use fluid that
has been standing open for some time, as
it absorbs moisture from the air. Excess
moisture can cause corrosion and a
dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

23 When adding fluid, it is a good idea to
inspect the reservoir for contamination. The
system should be drained and refilled if
deposits, dirt particles or contamination are
seen in the fluid.
24 After filling the reservoir to the correct
level, make sure that the cap is refitted

securely, to avoid leaks and the entry of
foreign matter.
25 If the reservoir requires repeated
replenishing to maintain the correct level, this
is an indication of an hydraulic leak
somewhere in the system, which should be
investigated immediately.

Power steering fluid

26 See Section 5 of this Chapter.

4 Tyre and tyre pressure

checks

1

1 Periodic inspection of the tyres may spare
you from the inconvenience of being stranded
with a flat tyre. It can also provide you with
vital information regarding possible problems
in the steering and suspension systems
before major damage occurs.
2 The current tyres are equipped with tread
wear indicator (TWI) bands, which will appear
when the tread depth reaches approximately

1.6 mm. Most tyres have a mark around the
tyre at regular intervals to indicate the location
of the tread wear indicators, the mark being
TWI, an arrow, or the tyre manufacturer’s
symbol. Tread wear can also be monitored
with a simple inexpensive device known as a
tread depth indicator gauge (see illustration).
3 Ensure that tyre pressures are checked
regularly and maintained correctly (see the
Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter
for pressures). Checking should be carried out
with the tyres cold, and not immediately after

the vehicle has been in use. If the pressures
are checked with the tyres hot, an apparently­high reading will be obtained, owing to heat
expansion. Under no circumstances should an
attempt be made to reduce the pressures to
the quoted cold reading in this instance, or
effective under-inflation will result. Most
garage forecourts have a pressure line which
combines a gauge to check and adjust the
tyre pressures, but they may vary in accuracy,
due to general misuse and abuse. It therefore
pays to carry a good-quality tyre pressure
gauge in the vehicle, to make the checks
required and ensure pressure accuracy.

4 Note any abnormal tread wear (see
illustration). Tread pattern irregularities such

as feathering, flat spots, and more wear on
one side than the other, are indications of
front wheel alignment and/or balance
problems. If any of these conditions are
noted, they should be rectified as soon as
possible.
5 Under-inflation will cause overheating of the
tyre, owing to excessive flexing of the casing,
and the tread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause a consequent loss of
adhesion and excessive wear, as well as the
danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat
build-up.
6 Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the
centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with
reduced adhesion, harder ride, and the
danger of damage occurring in the tyre
casing.
7 Regularly check the tyres for damage in the
form of cuts or bulges, especially in the
sidewalls. Remove any nails or stones

1•10 Weekly Checks

4.2 Checking the tyre tread depth with a
depth gauge

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)

Under-inflation will cause overheating of the
tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and
the tread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause a loss of grip and
excessive wear, not to mention the danger of
sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.
Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension parts

Hard cornering

Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation

Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the
centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with
reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of
shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.

Check and adjust pressures
If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s

tyres to the higher pressures specified for
maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t
forget to reduce the pressures to normal
afterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of
wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and
garages can check and adjust the wheel
alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.

Incorrect camber or castor

Repair or renew suspension parts

Malfunctioning suspension

Repair or renew suspension parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment
Note: The feathered edge of the tread which
typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

embedded in the tread, before they penetrate
the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail
reveals that the tyre has been punctured, refit
the nail, so that its point of penetration is
marked. Then immediately change the wheel,
and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Do
not drive on a tyre in such a condition. If in any
doubt as to the possible consequences of any
damage found, consult your local tyre dealer
for advice.
8 General tyre wear is influenced to a large
degree by driving style - harsh braking and
acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce
more rapid tyre wear. Interchanging of tyres
may result in more even wear; however, it is
worth bearing in mind that if this is completely
effective, the added expense is incurred of
replacing simultaneously a complete set of
tyres, which may prove financially restrictive
for many owners.
9 Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of
wheel misalignment. The front wheels should
always be correctly aligned according to the
settings specified by the vehicle
manufacturer.
10 Don’t forget to check the spare tyre for
condition and pressure.
11 Legal restrictions apply to many aspects
of tyre fitting and usage, and in the UK this
information is contained in the Motor Vehicle
Construction and Use Regulations. It is
suggested that a copy of these regulations is
obtained from your local police, if in doubt as
to current legal requirements with regard to
tyre type and condition, minimum tread depth,
etc.

5 Power steering fluid level

check

1

1 The power steering fluid reservoir is located
on the right-hand side of the engine
compartment next to the cooling system
expansion tank.
2 For the fluid level check on 4-cylinder
models, the power steering system must be
cold; on V6 models, it may be either hot or
cold.

3 Use a clean rag to wipe the filler cap and
the surrounding area, to prevent foreign
matter from entering the system. Unscrew
and remove the filler cap.
4 Check that the fluid level is up to the “MAX”
mark on the dipstick. On V6 engine models,
there is a scale on both sides of the dipstick,
one for hot checking and one for cold
checking.
5 Top-up the level to the “MAX” mark, using
the grade of fluid specified at the beginning of
this Chapter (see illustration). Be careful not
to introduce dirt into the system, and do not
overfill. The need for frequent topping-up
indicates a leak, which should be
investigated.

6 Refit the filler cap.

6 Windscreen/tailgate and

headlight washer system
and wiper blade check

1

1 The windscreen and tailgate wiper and
blade assembly should be inspected at the
specified intervals for damage, loose
components, and cracked or worn blade
elements.
2 Road film can build up on the wiper blades
and affect their efficiency, so they should be
washed regularly with a mild detergent solution.
3 The action of the wiping mechanism can
loosen bolts, nuts and fasteners, so they

should be checked and tightened, as
necessary, at the same time as the wiper
blades are checked.
4 If the wiper blade elements are cracked,
worn or warped, or no longer clean
adequately, they should be replaced with new
ones.
5 Switch on the ignition, and the windscreen
wipers, then park the wipers vertically on the
windscreen while they are still running. Lift the
wiper arm and blade away from the glass.
6 To remove the wiper blade, depress the
catch on the blade attachment, then withdraw
the blade assembly off the arm (see

illustration).
7 The tailgate wiper blade is removed in the

same way, but it is not necessary to park it in
the centre of the glass prior to removal.
8 If the metal part of the wiper blade is in
good condition, it may be possible to renew
the rubber insert separately. The insert can be
obtained from a car accessory shop and,
according to type, it may need to be cut to the
correct length before sliding into the clips.
9 Refit the wiper blade assembly using a
reversal of the removal procedure, making
sure that it fully engages with the spring clip.
10 Check that the washer jets direct the fluid
onto the upper part of the
windscreen/tailgate, and if necessary adjust
the small sphere on the jet with a pin. Note
that the headlight washer jets are of the fixed
type and cannot be adjusted.

Weekly Checks 1•11

6.6 Remove the windscreen wiper blade

by depressing the catch on the blade, then

withdraw the blade assembly off the arm

5.5 Topping up the power steering fluid
reservoir

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 6000 miles or 6 months, whichever occurs first

7 Engine oil and filter change

1

1 Make sure that you have all the necessary
tools before you begin this procedure.
You should also have plenty of rags
or newspapers handy, for mopping up any
spills.
2 To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to
protect yourself from possible skin irritants
and other harmful contaminants in used
engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves
when carrying out this work.
3 Access to the underside of the vehicle is
greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on
a hoist, driven onto ramps, or supported by
axle stands.

Warning: Do not work under a
vehicle which is supported only
by an hydraulic or scissor-type
jack, or by bricks, blocks of
wood, etc.

4 If this is your first oil change, get under the
vehicle and familiarise yourself with the
position of the engine oil drain plug location in
the sump. The engine and exhaust
components will be warm during the actual
work, so try to anticipate any potential
problems while the engine and accessories
are cool.
5 The oil should preferably be changed when

Frequent oil changes are the
best preventive
maintenance the home

mechanic can give the
engine, because ageing oil becomes
diluted and contaminated, which leads
to premature engine wear.

the engine is still at normal operating
temperature, just after a run; warm oil and
sludge will flow out more easily. Park the
vehicle on firm, level ground, apply the
handbrake, then select 1st or reverse gear
(manual transmission) or the “P” position
(automatics). Open the bonnet and remove
the engine oil filler cap from the valve cover,
then remove the oil level dipstick.
6 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands. Remove the front
right-hand roadwheel, then remove the plastic
panel under the wheelarch to provide
additional access to the oil filter.

Warning: To avoid personal
injury, never get beneath the
vehicle when it is supported by

only by a jack. The jack provided
with your vehicle is designed solely for
raising the vehicle to remove and refit the
roadwheels. Always use axle stands to
support the vehicle when it becomes
necessary to place your body underneath
the vehicle.

7 Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust
components, place the drain pan under the
drain plug, and unscrew the plug. If possible,
try to keep the plug pressed into the sump
while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of
turns. As the plug releases from the threads,
move it away sharply, so the stream of oil
issuing from the sump runs into the pan, not
up your sleeve! Allow the oil to drain into the
drain pan, and check the condition of the
plug’s sealing washer; renew it if worn or
damaged.
8 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the pan as the oil flow slows to a trickle. When
the oil has completely drained, wipe clean the
drain plug and its threads in the sump and
refit the plug, tightening it securely.
9 On all engines except the 2.5 litre V6, the oil
filter renewal procedure is relatively simple;
proceed as follows. Reposition the drain pan
under the oil filter then, using a filter removal
tool, unscrew the oil filter from the housing; be
prepared for some oil spillage (see
illustration). Check the old filter to make sure
that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the
engine; if it has, carefully remove it. Withdraw

the filter, taking care to spill as little oil as
possible.
10 Using a clean, lint-free rag, wipe clean the
cylinder block around the filter mounting. If
there are no specific instructions supplied
with it, fit a new oil filter as follows. Apply a
light coating of clean engine oil to the filter’s
sealing ring. Screw the filter into position on
the engine until it seats, then tighten it through
a further half- to three-quarters of a turn only.
Tighten the filter by hand only - do not use any
tools.
11 On 2.5 litre V6 engines the filter is a
cartridge contained within the filter housing.
12 Reposition the drain pan under the filter
assembly and first, drain the filter by
unscrewing the drain plug on the side of the
housing (see illustration). Refit the plug when
the filter has drained. Now undo the three
retaining nuts and withdraw the baseplate
from the filter assembly. As you do this be
prepared for oil spillage and catch the filter
cartridge and its components, which will fall
out and probably land in the oil as the
baseplate is removed. Retrieve the filter lower
spring and the sealing ring on the baseplate.
13 Clean the baseplate thoroughly and wipe
around the inside of the filter housing using a
clean lint-free rag.
14 Locate the new sealing ring in the
baseplate, then fit the spring to the locating
lugs in the baseplate. Locate the filter in the
housing, and refit the baseplate. Screw on the
three nuts and tighten them securely.
15 Remove the old oil and all tools from
under the vehicle, refit the access panel and
roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the
ground.
16 Refill the engine with oil, using the correct
grade and type of oil, as given in the
“Lubricants, fluids and capacities” Section of
this Chapter. Pour in half the specified
quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for
the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil
a small quantity at a time, until the level is up

to the lower notch on the dipstick. Adding
approximately 0.5 to 1.0 litre will raise the
level to the dipstick’s upper notch.
17 Start the engine. The oil pressure warning
light will take a few seconds to go out while
the new filter fills with oil; do not race the
engine while the light is on. Run the engine for
a few minutes, while checking for leaks
around the oil filter seal and the drain plug.
18 Switch off the engine, and wait a few
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once
more. With the new oil circulated and the filter
now completely full, recheck the level on the
dipstick, adding more oil as necessary.
19 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with
reference to “General repair procedures” in
the Reference Section of this manual.

8 Underbonnet check for fluid

leaks and hose condition

2

Caution: Renewal of air conditioning hoses
must be left to a dealer service
department or air conditioning specialist
who has the equipment to depressurise
the system safely. Never remove air
conditioning components or hoses until
the system has been depressurised.

General

1 High temperatures in the engine
compartment can cause the deterioration of
the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine,
accessory and emission systems operation.
Periodic inspection should be made for
cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and
leaks.
2 Carefully check the large top and bottom
radiator hoses, along with the other smaller­diameter cooling system hoses and metal
pipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipes
which run from the engine to the bulkhead.
Inspect each hose along its entire length,
replacing any that is cracked, swollen or
shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may
become more apparent if the hose is
squeezed.
3 Make sure that all hose connections are
tight. A leak in the cooling system will usually
show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits
on the areas adjoining the leak; if the spring
clamps that are used to secure the hoses in
this system appear to be slackening, they
should be renewed to prevent the possibility
of leaks.
4 Some other hoses are secured to their
fittings with clamps. Where clamps are used,
check that they haven’t lost their tension,
allowing the hose to leak. If clamps aren’t
used, make sure the hose has not expanded
and/or hardened where it slips over the fitting,
allowing it to leak.
5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain
plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs of
leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake
hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering

1•12 Every 6000 miles

7.12 Oil filter cartridge components on

2.5 litre V6 engines

1 Engine oil drain plug
2 Oil filter housing drain plug
3 Baseplate retaining nuts
4 Baseplate
5 Oil filter cartridge
6 Spring locating lugs
7 Spring
8 Sealing ring

7.9 Using a filter removal tool, unscrew
the oil filter from the housing

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

fluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in the
same place, close inspection of the ground
underneath it will soon show any leaks; ignore
the puddle of water which will be left if the air
conditioning system is in use. As soon as a
leak is detected, its source must be traced
and rectified. Where oil has been leaking for
some time, it is usually necessary to use a
steam cleaner, pressure washer or similar, to
clean away the accumulated dirt, so that the
exact source of the leak can be identified.

Vacuum hoses

6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses,
especially those in the emissions system, to
be numbered or colour-coded, or to be
identified by coloured stripes moulded into
them. Various systems require hoses with
different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance
and temperature resistance. When renewing
hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the
same material.
7 Often the only effective way to check a
hose is to remove it completely from the
vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be
sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure
correct installation.
8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to
include any plastic T-fittings in the
check. Inspect the fittings for cracks, and
check the hose where it fits over the fitting

for distortion, which could cause leakage.
9 A small piece of vacuum hose (quarter-inch
inside diameter) can be used as a
stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold
one end of the hose to your ear, and probe
around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening
for the “hissing” sound characteristic of a
vacuum leak.

Warning: When probing with the
vacuum hose stethoscope, be
very careful not to come into

contact with moving engine
components such as the auxiliary
drivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.

Fuel hoses

Warning: There are certain

precautions which must be

taken when inspecting or

servicing fuel system
components. Work in a well-ventilated
area, and do not allow open flames
(cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) or
bare light bulbs near the work area. Mop
up any spills immediately, and do not store
fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.

10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and
chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas
where the hose bends, and also just before
fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the
fuel filter.

11 High-quality fuel line, usually identified by
the word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on the
hose, should be used for fuel line renewal.
Never, under any circumstances, use
unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing
or water hose for fuel lines.
12 Spring-type clamps are commonly used
on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their
tension over a period of time, and can be
“sprung” during removal. Replace all spring­type clamps with screw clamps whenever a
hose is replaced.

Metal lines

13 Sections of metal piping are often used
for fuel line between the fuel filter and the
engine. Check carefully to be sure the piping
has not been bent or crimped, and that cracks
have not started in the line.
14 If a section of metal fuel line must be
renewed, only seamless steel piping should
be used, since copper and aluminium piping
don’t have the strength necessary to
withstand normal engine vibration.
15 Check the metal brake lines where they
enter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulic
unit (if used) for cracks in the lines or loose
fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls
for an immediate and thorough inspection of
the brake system.

Every 12 000 miles 1•13

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months, whichever occurs first

9 Cooling system check

1

1 The engine should be cold for the cooling
system checks, so perform the following
procedure before driving the vehicle, or after it
has been shut off for at least three hours.
2 Remove the expansion tank filler cap
(Section 3), and clean it thoroughly inside and
out with a rag. Clean the filler neck on the
expansion tank. The presence of rust or
corrosion in the filler neck indicates that the
coolant should be changed. The coolant
inside the expansion tank should be relatively
clean and transparent. If it is rust-coloured,
drain and flush the system, and refill with a
fresh coolant mixture.
3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and
heater hoses as described in Section 8.
4 Inspect all other cooling system
components (joint faces, etc.) for leaks. A leak
in the cooling system will usually show up as
white- or rust-coloured deposits on the area
adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this
nature are found on system components,
renew the component or gasket with
reference to Chapter 3.
5 Clean the front of the radiator with a soft
brush to remove all insects, leaves, etc,
embedded in the radiator fins. Be careful not

to damage the radiator fins, or cut your fingers
on them.

10 Accelerator cable and

linkage check and
lubrication

1

1 From within the engine compartment check
the condition of the accelerator cable
ensuring that it isn’t kinked or trapped behind
any other components or fittings. Make sure
that all clips and cable ties are in place and
that the cable properly supported. Where
cruise control is fitted, check the cruise
control operating cable in the same way.
2 Operate the throttle by means of the
accelerator pedal and make sure that the
action is smooth without notchiness or
evidence of binding.
3 Finally, lubricate the throttle linkage and the
accelerator pedal pivot with a few drops of
light oil.

11 Spark plug renewal

1

Note: Spark plug renewal at this service
interval is only necessary on certain engines
without emission control equipment. On all

other engines the recommended interval for
spark plug renewal is every 24 000 miles or
2 years. Consult the spark plug manufacturer
or a Rover dealer for their advice concerning
renewal intervals.

Spark plug check and renewal

1 It is vital for the correct running, full
performance and proper economy of the
engine that the spark plugs perform with
maximum efficiency. The most important
factor in ensuring this, is that the plugs fitted
are appropriate for the engine. The suitable
type is given in the Specifications Section at
the beginning of this Chapter, or in the
vehicle’s Owner’s Handbook. If this type is
used and the engine is in good condition, the
spark plugs should not need attention
between scheduled renewal intervals. Spark
plug cleaning is rarely necessary, and should
not be attempted unless specialised
equipment is available, as damage can easily
be caused to the firing ends.
2 Spark plug removal and refitting requires a
spark plug socket, with an extension which
can be turned by a ratchet handle or similar.
This socket is lined with a rubber sleeve, to
protect the porcelain insulator of the spark
plug, and to hold the plug while you insert it
into the spark plug hole. You will also need a
wire-type feeler gauge, to check and adjust
the spark plug electrode gap, and a torque

wrench to tighten the new plugs to the
specified torque (see illustration).
3 To remove the spark plugs, first open the
bonnet; the plugs are easily reached at the
top of the engine or on the front and rear
facing sides. Note how the spark plug (HT)
leads are routed and secured by clips, and on
some engines, how they’re positioned along
the channel in the cylinder head cover. To
prevent the possibility of mixing up spark plug
(HT) leads, it is a good idea to work on one
spark plug at a time.
4 If the marks on the original-equipment
spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark
the leads 1 to 4 (or 1 to 6), to correspond to
the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at
the timing belt end of the engine on 4-cylinder
engines, and at the timing belt end of the
engine on the rear bank under the brake
master cylinder on V6 engines).
5 On 4-cylinder engines, undo the bolts
securing the spark plug cover to the centre of
the cylinder head, noting the accelerator cable
support bracket on early engines. Lift off the
cover and again, on early engines, release the
HT lead grommet from the end of the cover.
6 On all engines, pull the leads from the plugs
by gripping the rubber boot, not the lead,
otherwise the lead connection may be
fractured.
7 Unscrew the spark plugs, ensuring that the
socket is kept in alignment with each plug - if
the socket is forcibly moved to either side, the
porcelain top of the plug may be broken off. If
any undue difficulty is encountered when
unscrewing any of the spark plugs, carefully

check the cylinder head threads and tapered
sealing surfaces for signs of wear, excessive
corrosion or damage; if any of these
conditions is found, seek the advice of a
dealer as to the best method of repair.
8 As each plug is removed, examine it as
follows - this will give a good indication of the
condition of the engine. If the insulator nose of
the spark plug is clean and white, with no
deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture.
9 If the tip and insulator nose are covered
with hard black-looking deposits, then this is
indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should
the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that
the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture
being too rich.
10 If the insulator nose is covered with light
tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the
mixture is correct, and it is likely that the
engine is in good condition.
11 If you are renewing the spark plugs,
purchase the new plugs, then check each of
them first for faults such as cracked insulators
or damaged threads. Note also that,
whenever the spark plugs are renewed as a
routine service operation, the spark plug (HT)
leads should be checked as described below.
12 The spark plug electrode gap is of
considerable importance as, if it is too large or
too small, the size of the spark and its efficiency
will be seriously impaired. The gap should be
set to the value given in the Specifications
Section of this Chapter. New plugs will not
necessarily be set to the correct gap, so they
should always be checked before fitting.
13 Special spark plug electrode gap
adjusting tools are available from most motor
accessory shops.
14 To set the electrode gap, measure the gap
with a feeler gauge or adjusting tool, and then
bend open, or closed, the outer plug electrode
until the correct gap is achieved (see
illustrations). The centre electrode should
never be bent, as this may crack the insulation
and cause plug failure, if nothing worse. If the
outer electrode is not exactly over the centre
electrode, bend it gently to align them.
15 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that
the threaded connector
sleeves at the top of the plugs are tight, and
that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are

clean. Brown staining on the porcelain,
immediately above the metal body, is quite
normal, and does not necessarily indicate a
leak between the body and insulator.
16 On installing the spark plugs, first check
that the cylinder head thread and sealing
surface are as clean as possible; use a clean
rag wrapped around a paintbrush to wipe
clean the sealing surface. Apply a smear of
copper-based grease or anti-seize compound
to the threads of each plug, and screw them
in by hand where possible.

17 When each spark plug is started correctly
on its threads, screw it down until it just seats
lightly, then tighten it to the specified torque
wrench setting.
18 Reconnect the spark plug (HT) leads in
their correct order, using a twisting motion on
the boot until it is firmly seated. On 4-cylinder
engines, refit the spark cover.

Spark plug (HT) lead and
distributor cap check

19 The spark plug (HT) leads should be
inspected one at a time, to prevent mixing up

1•14 Every 12 000 miles

11.14c . . . then use the end of the special
tool to adjust the gap

11.14b . . . or adjusting tool . . .11.14a Measure the spark plug gap with a

feeler gauge . . .

11.2 Tools required for spark plug

removal, gap adjustment and refitting

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Take extra care to enter the plug
threads correctly, as the cylinder head
is of aluminium alloy - it’s often difficult
to insert spark plugs into their holes
without cross-threading them. To avoid
this possibility, fit a short piece of hose
over the end of the spark plug. The
flexible hose acts as a universal joint,
to help align the plug with the plug
hole. Should the plug begin to cross­thread, the hose will slip on the spark
plug, preventing thread damage.

the firing order, which is essential for proper
engine operation. Gain access to the leads
and disconnect them as described above for
the spark plug check and renewal.
20 Check inside the boot for corrosion, which
will look like a white crusty powder. Clean this
off as much as possible; if it is excessive, or if
cleaning leaves the metal connector too badly
corroded to be fit for further use, the lead
must be renewed. Push the lead and boot
back onto the end of the spark plug. The boot
should fit tightly onto the end of the plug - if it
doesn’t, remove the lead and use pliers
carefully to crimp the metal connector inside
the boot until the fit is snug.
21 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length
of the lead to remove built-up dirt and grease.
Once the lead is clean, check for burns,
cracks and other damage. Do not bend the
lead sharply, because the conductor might
break.
22 Inspect the remaining spark plug (HT)
leads, ensuring that each is securely fastened
at the distributor cap and spark plug when the
check is complete. If any sign of arcing,
severe connector corrosion, burns, cracks or
other damage is noticed, obtain new spark
plug (HT) leads, renewing them as a set. If
new spark plug leads are to be fitted, remove
and refit them one at a time, to avoid mix-ups
in the firing order.
23 Refer to Chapter 5 and remove the
distributor cap then thoroughly clean it inside
and out with a dry lint-free rag.
24 Examine the HT lead segments inside the
cap. If they appear badly burned or pitted
renew the cap. Also check the carbon brush
in the centre of the cap, ensuring that it is free
to move and stands proud of its holder. Make
sure that there are no sign of cracks or black
“tracking” lines running down the inside of the
cap, which will also mean renewal if evident.
Refit the cap as described in Chapter 5 on
completion.

12 Air cleaner element renewal

1

1 The air cleaner filter element is located in
the air cleaner assembly mounted on the left-

hand side of the engine compartment. Undo
the retaining screws and/or release the clips,
and lift the air cleaner cover, disconnecting
the vacuum hose where fitted. Lift the element
out of the housing, together with its support
frame on V6 engines, and wipe out the
housing (see illustrations). Check that no
foreign matter is visible, either in the air intake
or in the housing.
2 If carrying out a routine service, the element
must be renewed regardless of its apparent
condition. If you are checking the element for
any other reason, inspect its lower surface; if
it is oily or very dirty, renew the element. If it is
only moderately dusty, it can be re-used by
blowing it clean from the upper to the lower
surface with compressed air.

Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
Because it is a pleated-paper

type filter, it cannot be washed
or re-oiled. If it cannot be cleaned
satisfactorily with compressed air, discard
and renew it.
Caution: Never drive the vehicle with the
air cleaner filter element removed.
Excessive engine wear could result, and
backfiring could even cause a fire under
the bonnet.

3 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the element and cover
are securely seated, so that unfiltered air
cannot enter the engine.

13 Electrical system check

1

1 Check the operation of all external lights
and indicators (front and rear).
2 Check for satisfactory operation of the
instrument panel, its illumination and warning
lights, the switches and their function lights.

3 Check the horn(s) for satisfactory operation.
4 Check all other electrical equipment for

satisfactory operation.
5 Check all electrical wiring in the engine
compartment for correct routing, and for
any signs of physical or heat-damage or
chafing.

14 Battery check, maintenance

and charging

2

Warning: Certain precautions
must be followed when
checking and servicing the

battery. Hydrogen gas, which is
highly flammable, is always present in the
battery cells, so keep lighted tobacco and
all other open flames and sparks away
from the battery. The electrolyte inside the
battery is actually dilute sulphuric acid,
which will cause injury if splashed on your
skin or in your eyes. It will also ruin clothes
and painted surfaces. When disconnecting
the battery, always detach the negative
(earth) lead first and connect it last!

Note: Before disconnecting the battery, refer
to Section 1 of Chapter 5.

General

1 A routine preventive maintenance
programme for the battery in your vehicle is
the only way to ensure quick and reliable
starts. Before performing any battery
maintenance, make sure that you have the
proper equipment necessary to work safely
around the battery.
2 There are also several precautions that
should be taken whenever battery
maintenance is performed. Before servicing
the battery, always turn the engine and all
accessories off, and disconnect the lead from
the negative terminal of the battery - see
Chapter 5, Section 1.
3 The battery produces hydrogen gas, which
is both flammable and explosive. Never create
a spark, smoke, or light a match around the
battery. Always charge the battery in a well­ventilated area.
4 Electrolyte contains poisonous and
corrosive sulphuric acid. Do not allow it to get
in your eyes, on your skin, or on your clothes.
Never ingest it. Wear protective safety glasses
when working near the battery. Keep children
away from the battery.
5 Note the external condition of the battery. If
the positive terminal and lead clamp on your
vehicle’s battery is equipped with a plastic

Every 12 000 miles 1•15

12.1c Lift the element out of the housing,

together with its support frame on V6 engines

12.1b . . . and element on 4-cylinder

engines with single-point fuel injection

12.1a Removing the air cleaner cover . . .

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

cover or rubber protector, make sure that it’s
not torn or damaged. It should completely
cover the terminal. Look for any corroded or
loose connections, cracks in the case or
cover, or loose hold-down clamps. Check the
entire length of each lead for cracks and
frayed conductors.
6 If corrosion, which looks like white, fluffy
deposits is evident, particularly around the
terminals, the battery should be removed for
cleaning as described in Chapter 5, Section 2.
7 Clean the lead clamps thoroughly, using a
soft wire brush or a terminal cleaner, with a
solution of warm water and baking soda.
Wash the terminals and the top of the battery
case with the same solution, but make sure
that the solution doesn’t get into the battery.
When cleaning the leads, terminals and
battery top, wear safety goggles and rubber
gloves, to prevent any solution from coming in
contact with your eyes or hands. Wear old
clothes too - even when diluted, acid
splashed onto clothes will burn holes in them.
Wash all cleaned areas with plain water.
8 Make sure that the battery tray is in good
condition and the hold-down clamp nuts are
tight. If the battery is removed from the tray,
make sure no parts remain in the bottom of
the tray when the battery is refitted. When
refitting the hold-down clamp nuts, do not
overtighten them.
9 Information on jump starting can be found
at the front of this manual. For more detailed
battery checking procedures, refer to the
Haynes “Automobile Electrical and Electronic
Systems Manual”.

Cleaning

10 Corrosion on the hold-down components,
battery case and surrounding areas can be
removed with a solution of water and baking
soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with
plain water.
11 Any metal parts of the vehicle damaged
by corrosion should be covered with a zinc­based primer, then painted.

Charging

Warning: When batteries are
being charged, hydrogen gas,
which is very explosive and

flammable, is produced. Do not
smoke, or allow open flames, near a
charging or a recently-charged battery.
Wear eye protection when near the battery
during charging. Also, make sure the
charger is unplugged before connecting or
disconnecting the battery from the charger.

12 Slow-rate charging is the best way to
restore a battery that’s discharged to the
point where it will not start the engine. It’s also
a good way to maintain the battery charge in a
vehicle that’s only driven a few miles between
starts. Maintaining the battery charge is
particularly important in winter, when the
battery must work harder to start the engine,
and electrical accessories that drain the
battery are in greater use.

13 It’s best to use a one- or two-amp battery
charger (sometimes called a “trickle” charger).
They are the safest, and put the least strain on
the battery. They are also the least expensive.
For a faster charge, you can use a higher­amperage charger, but don’t use one rated
more than 1/10th the amp/hour rating of the
battery (ie no more than 5 amps, typically).
Rapid boost charges that claim to restore the
power of the battery in one to two hours are
hardest on the battery, and can damage
batteries not in good condition. This type of
charging should only be used in emergency
situations.
14 The average time necessary to charge a
battery should be listed in the instructions that
come with the charger. As a general rule, a
trickle charger will charge a battery in 12 to
16 hours.

15 Seat belt check

1

1 Check the seat belts for satisfactory
operation and condition. Inspect the webbing
for fraying and cuts. Check that they retract
smoothly and without binding into their reels.
2 Check that the seat belt mounting bolts are
tight, and if necessary tighten them to the
specified torque wrench setting (see Chap­ter 11).

16 Auxiliary drivebelts check

and renewal

2

General

1 The number and type of auxiliary drivebelts
depends on the engine, year of manufacture,
and whether or not the vehicle is equipped
with air conditioning. The belt will be either a
V-belt or a flat, multi-ribbed (or “polyvee”)
type. All the drivebelts are located on the
right-hand end of the engine and are driven
from the crankshaft pulley. Early “M” series
4-cylinder engines have an additional
drivebelt for the power steering pump, which
is driven from a pulley on the camshaft.

2 The good condition and proper tension of
the auxiliary drivebelts is critical to the
operation of the engine. Because of their
composition and the high stresses to which
they are subjected, drivebelts stretch and
deteriorate as they get older. They must,
therefore, be regularly inspected.

Check

3 With the engine switched off, open and
support the bonnet, then locate the auxiliary
drivebelts fitted to your car (Be very careful,
and wear protective gloves to minimise the
risk of burning your hands on hot
components, if the engine has recently been
running). For improved access, jack up the
front of the vehicle, support it securely on axle
stands, remove the roadwheel, then remove
the cover from inside the wheelarch.
4 Using an inspection light or a small electric
torch, and rotating the engine when necessary
with a spanner applied to the crankshaft
pulley bolt, check the whole length of the
drivebelt for cracks, separation of the rubber,
and torn or worn ribs. Also check for fraying
and glazing, which gives the drivebelt a shiny
appearance. Both sides of the drivebelt
should be inspected, and you will have to
twist the drivebelt to check the underside.
Use your fingers to feel the drivebelt where
you can’t see it. If you are in any doubt as to
the condition of the drivebelt, renew it.

Drivebelt tension - 4-cylinder
engines

Alternator drivebelt (early “M” series
engines)

5 Check that it is just possible to twist the

belt by hand through 90º at a point midway
between the two pulleys. If adjustment is
necessary, proceed as follows.
6 Slacken the two alternator adjustment
bracket bolts and the alternator pivot bolt and
nut (see illustrations).
7 Lever the alternator away from the engine
until the drivebelt is moderately tight. The
alternator must only be levered with care at
the drive end bracket. Hold the alternator in
this position and tighten the adjustment
bracket bolts and pivot nut and bolt.

1•16 Every 12 000 miles

16.6b . . . and pivot bolt retaining nut on
early “M” series 4-cylinder engines

16.6a Alternator adjustment bracket bolts
(arrowed) . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Power steering pump drivebelt (early
“M” series engines)

8 Refer to Chapter 4, Part A or B, and remove

the air cleaner components as necessary, for
access.
9 Undo the retaining screw and remove the
cover over the camshaft pulley (see illustration).
10 Undo the bolts securing the coolant
bypass pipe to the cylinder head and to the
main coolant pipe, and move the bypass pipe
aside as necessary for access.
11 To check and adjust the belt tension
accurately it will be necessary to obtain a
socket to fit the power steering pump pulley
retaining nut, a socket bar of at least 12 inches
in length, and a spring balance capable of
recording a minimum of 25 lbs. Make a paint
mark or similar on the socket bar, 12 inches up
from the centre of the square drive end.
12 Slacken the centre retaining nut on the
belt tensioner wheel, then turn the tension
adjuster bolt clockwise until the belt is slack.
Retighten the tensioner wheel retaining nut to

5.0 Nm.
13 Fit the socket and bar to the pump pulley
retaining nut, and position it so that the socket
bar is vertical.
14 Attach the spring balance to the socket
bar at the point marked 12 inches up from the
square drive end.
15 Turn the adjuster bolt anti-clockwise until
it takes a pull of 25 lbs to make the pump
pulley slip. This procedure is shown (see
illustration 16.9), but using the Rover special
tool. The socket and bar are a substitute for
this tool.
16 Remove the socket, bar and spring
balance, then turn the crankshaft until the
camshaft pulley has turned through 180º.
17 Check the belt tension again, and re­adjust if necessary.
18 Now turn the tension adjuster bolt anti­clockwise two complete turns.
19 Tighten the tensioner wheel retaining nut
fully to the specified torque.
20 Refit the coolant pipe retaining bolts, and
the cover over the camshaft pulley.

21 Refit the air cleaner components.

Alternator/power steering pump/air
conditioning compressor drivebelt
(later “M” series engines)

22 Accurate tensioning of the drivebelt on

cars with this arrangement can only be
achieved with the Rover belt tensioning tool,
and ideally this operation should be carried
out by a Rover dealer. However, if a new belt
has been fitted, or if the existing tension is
extremely slack, a rough approximation as a
temporary measure can be achieved using the
following procedure.
23 To adjust the belt tension, slacken the idler
pulley retaining nut, then turn the adjuster bolt
clockwise to increase the tension or anti­clockwise to decrease it, until it is just possible
to twist the belt by hand through 90º at a point
midway between the crankshaft and power
steering pump pulleys (see illustration).

Every 12 000 miles 1•17

16.23 Drivebelt adjustment on later “M” series 4-cylinder engines

1 Drivebelt 2 Checking gauge - Rover

special tool

3 Idler pulley retaining nut
4 Adjuster bolt

16.9 Power steering pump drivebelt adjustment on early “M” series 4-cylinder engines

1 Camshaft pulley cover

retaining screw
2 Camshaft pulley cover
3 Coolant pipe retaining bolt

4 Coolant pipe
5 Drivebelt
6 Belt tensioner wheel centre

retaining nut

7 Tension adjuster bolt
8 Rover special tool for

checking tension

9 Spring balance

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

24 When the tension is correct, tighten the
idler pulley retaining nut to the specified
torque and lower the car to the ground.

Alternator/power steering pump/air
conditioning compressor drivebelt
(“T” series engines)

25 “T” series engines are fitted with an

automatic drivebelt tensioner incorporating a
wear indicator to show when the belt has
stretched too far for the tensioner to maintain
correct adjustment (see illustration).
26 To check the tension, observe the wear
indicator and make sure that the pointer has
not reached the right-hand end of the slot. If it
hasn’t, all is well, and no further action is
necessary; if it has, renew the belt.

Drivebelt tension - V6 engines

Alternator drivebelt

27 Undo the three bolts and one nut securing

the power steering pump and alternator pulley

covers to the top of the engine. Move the
pipes and cables clear and lift off the covers

(see illustration).
28 The belt tension is correct when it is just

possible to deflect the belt by 18 to 22 mm at
the mid-point of its run, under moderate finger
pressure. If adjustment is required, proceed
as follows.
29 Slacken the alternator side pivot bolt and
lower mounting nut, then turn the adjusting
bolt on the side of the unit as necessary to
achieve the correct tension (see

illustrations).
30 Tighten the pivot and mounting nuts and

bolts and refit the covers to the top of the
engine.

Power steering pump drivebelt

31 Undo the three bolts and one nut securing

the power steering pump and alternator pulley
covers to the top of the engine. Move the
pipes and cables clear and lift off the covers.

32 The belt tension is correct when it is just
possible to deflect the belt by 18 to 22 mm at
the mid-point of its run, under moderate finger
pressure. If adjustment is required, proceed
as follows.
33 Slacken the pump adjusting nut and
mounting bolt, then engage the end of a
1/2 inch square drive socket bar in the hole at
the rear of the large lug on top of the pump
(see illustrations). Using the bar, move the
pump as necessary, until the belt tension is
correct, then tighten the adjusting and
mounting nut and bolt.

Air conditioning compressor drivebelt

34 The belt tension is correct when it is just

possible to deflect the belt by 7 to 9 mm at a
point mid-way between the crankshaft pulley
and the tensioner jockey wheel, under

1•18 Every 12 000 miles

16.33b . . . then engage the end of a

socket bar in the lug on top of the pump to

adjust the belt

16.29a . . . slacken the alternator side
pivot bolt (arrowed) . . .

16.33a Slacken the V6 engine power
steering pump adjusting nut . . .

16.29b . . . and lower mounting nut

(arrowed), then turn the adjusting bolt to

achieve the correct tension

16.27 On V6 engines, remove the pulley
covers over the top of the engine . . .

16.25 Drivebelt adjustment details on “T” series engines

1 Wheelarch cover retaining

bolts

2 Wheelarch cover
3 Tensioner wear indicator

4 Releasing the tensioner for

belt renewal

5 Drivebelt

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

moderate finger pressure. If adjustment is
required, proceed as follows.
35 Slacken the bolt in the centre of the
tensioner jockey wheel, then turn the
adjusting bolt, behind the adjuster, to obtain
the correct belt tension (see illustration).
When the adjustment is correct, tighten the
jockey wheel bolt.

Renewal - 4-cylinder engines

36 Open the bonnet, jack up the front of the
vehicle (where applicable) and support it
securely on an axle stands, remove the
roadwheel, then remove the cover from inside
the wheelarch.
37 The routing of the drivebelt around the
pulleys is dependant on the drivebelt type and
whether or not air conditioning is fitted. Before
removing the drivebelt, it’s a good idea to
sketch the belt run around the pulleys; this will
save a lot of frustration when it comes to
refitting.
38 If the existing drivebelt is to be refitted,
mark it, or note the maker’s markings on its
flat surface, so that it can be installed in the
same way.
39 To renew the drivebelt, slacken the belt
tension fully as described above according to
type, noting that where an automatic
tensioner is fitted, it is only necessary to turn
the tensioner centre bolt clockwise, using a
spanner, to release the belt tension. Slip the
belt off the pulleys then fit the new belt
ensuring that it is routed correctly. With the
belt in position, adjust the tension as
previously described, or simply release the
tensioner bolt.
40 Using a spanner applied to the crankshaft
pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft through at
least two full turns clockwise to settle the
drivebelt on the pulleys, then check that the
drivebelt is properly installed.
41 Refit the cover and roadwheel, then lower
the vehicle to the ground.

Renewal - V6 engines

42 Open the bonnet, jack up the front of the
vehicle (where applicable) and support it
securely on an axle stands, remove the
roadwheel, then remove the cover from inside
the wheelarch.

43 If the existing drivebelt is to be refitted,
mark it, or note the maker’s markings on its
flat surface, so that it can be installed the
same way.
44 Depending on which drivebelt is to be
renewed, it will probably be necessary to
remove one (or both) of the other drivebelts
first, to gain access. Note also, that if the
power steering pump drivebelt is to be
renewed, it will be necessary to support the
engine under the sump on a jack (with
interposed block of wood) and undo the two
bolts on the right-hand engine mounting, to
allow the belt to pass through.
45 To renew the drivebelt, slacken the belt
tension fully as described above according to
type. Slip the belt off the pulleys then fit the
new belt. With the belt in position, refit the
engine mounting bolts (where applicable) and
adjust the tension as previously described.
46 Using a spanner applied to the crankshaft
pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft through at
least two full turns clockwise to settle the
drivebelt on the pulleys, then check that the
drivebelt is properly installed.
47 Refit the cover and roadwheel, then lower
the vehicle to the ground.

17 Engine compartment wiring

check

2

1 With the vehicle parked on level ground,
apply the handbrake firmly and open the
bonnet. Using an inspection light or a small
electric torch, check all visible wiring within
and beneath the engine compartment.
2 What you are looking for is wiring that is
obviously damaged by chafing against sharp
edges, or against moving suspension/
transmission components and/or the auxiliary
drivebelts, by being trapped or crushed
between carelessly-refitted components, or
melted by being forced into contact with the
hot engine castings, coolant pipes, etc. In
almost all cases, damage of this sort is
caused in the first instance by incorrect
routing on reassembly after previous work has
been carried out.
3 Depending on the extent of the problem,
damaged wiring may sometimes be repaired
by rejoining the break or splicing-in a new
length of wire, using solder to ensure a good
connection, and remaking the insulation with
adhesive insulating tape or heat-shrink tubing,
as appropriate. If the damage is extensive,
given the implications for the vehicle’s future
reliability, the best long-term answer may well
be to renew that entire section of the loom,
however expensive this may appear.
4 When the actual damage has been
repaired, ensure that the wiring loom is re­routed correctly, so that it is clear of other
components, and not stretched or kinked, and
is secured out of harm’s way using the plastic
clips, guides and ties provided.
5 Check all electrical connectors, ensuring

that they are clean, securely fastened, and
that each is locked by its plastic tabs or wire
clip, as appropriate. If any connector shows
external signs of corrosion (accumulations of
white or green deposits, or streaks of “rust”),
or if any is thought to be dirty, it must be
unplugged and cleaned using electrical
contact cleaner. If the connector pins are
severely corroded, the connector must be
renewed; note that this may mean the renewal
of that entire section of the loom - see your
local Rover dealer for details.
6 If the cleaner completely removes the
corrosion to leave the connector in a
satisfactory condition, it would be wise to
pack the connector with a material which will
exclude dirt and moisture, preventing the
corrosion from occurring again.
7 Check the condition of the battery
connections - remake the connections or
renew the leads if a fault is found. Use the
same techniques to ensure that all earth
points in the engine compartment provide
good electrical contact through clean, metal­to-metal joints, and that all are securely
fastened.
8 Refer to Section 11 for details of spark plug
(HT) lead checks.

18 Air conditioning system

check

1

Warning: The air conditioning
system is under high pressure. Do
not loosen any fittings or remove

any components until after the
system has been discharged. Air conditioning
refrigerant must be properly discharged into
an approved type of container, at a dealer
service department or an automotive air
conditioning repair facility capable of
handling the refrigerant safely. Always wear
eye protection when disconnecting air
conditioning system fittings.

1 The following maintenance checks should
be performed on a regular basis, to ensure
that the air conditioner continues to operate at
peak efficiency:

(a) Check the auxiliary drivebelt. If it’s worn

or deteriorated, renew it (see Section 16).

(b) Check the system hoses. Look for cracks,

bubbles, hard spots and deterioration.
Inspect the hoses and all fittings for oil
bubbles and seepage. If there’s any
evidence of wear, damage or leaks, renew
the hose(s).

(c) Inspect the condenser fins for leaves,

insects and other debris. Use a “fin
comb” or compressed air to clean the
condenser.

Warning: Wear eye protection

when using compressed air!

(d) Check that the drain tube from the front

of the evaporator is clear - note that it is
normal to have clear fluid (water) dripping

Every 12 000 miles 1•19

16.35 Air conditioning compressor

drivebelt tensioner jockey wheel bolt (A),

and adjusting bolt (B) on V6 engines

1

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake