Rover 800 User Manual

0 (0)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Rover 820, 825 & 827

Service and Repair Manual

J. S. Mead

Models covered

Rover 820, 825, 827 and Sterling models with 4-cylinder and V6 petrol engines, including special/limited editions 1994 cc, 2494 cc & 2675 cc

Does not cover 8-valve carburettor (petrol) engine or Diesel-engined models

(1380-304-11AA3)

in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 273 8 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil,

Somerset BA22 7JJ Haynes Publishing

Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

Editions Haynes S.A.

147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 Paris, France

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

Box 1504, 751 45 Uppsala, Sweden

ABCDE FGHIJ KLMNO PQRST

1 2 3

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Contents

LIVING WITH YOUR ROVER

Introduction Page 0•4 Safety First! Page 0•5 General dimensions and weights Page 0•6

Roadside Repairs

Jacking, towing and wheel changing Page 0•7 Jump starting Page 0•9 Identifying leaks Page 0•10

Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system – precaution Page 0•10 Conversion Factors Page 0•11

ROUTINE MAINTENANCE

Routine maintenance and servicing

Routine maintenance Page 1•1 Servicing Specifications Page 1•2 Lubricants, fluids and capacities Page 1•3 Maintenance schedule Page 1•4 Maintenance procedures Page 1•8

Weekly checks Page 1•8 Every 6000 or six months Page 1•11 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months Page 1•13 Every 24 000 miles or 2 years Page 1•23 Every 48 000 miles Page 1•26 Every 60 000 miles or 5 years Page 1•26

REPAIRS & OVERHAUL

Engine and Associated Systems

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures Page 2A•1 V6 engine – in-car engine repair procedures Page 2B•1 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures Page 2C•1 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Page 3•1 Fuel and exhaust systems – Single-point injection engines Page 4A•1 Fuel and exhaust systems – Lucas multi-point injection engines Page 4B•1 Fuel and exhaust systems – MEMS multi-point injection engines Page 4C•1 Fuel and exhaust systems – Honda PGM-Fi injection engines Page 4D•1 Fuel and exhaust systems – Emissions control systems Page 4E•1 Engine electrical systems Page 5•1

Transmission

Clutch Page 6•1 Manual transmission Page 7A•1 Automatic transmission Page 7B•1 Driveshafts Page 8•1

Brakes

Braking system Page 9•1

Suspension and Steering

Suspension and steering systems Page 10•1

Body Equipment

Bodywork and fittings Page 11•1 Body electrical systems Page 12•1

Wiring Diagrams Page 12•19

REFERENCE

MOT Test Checks Page REF•1 General Repair Procedures Page REF•5 Tools and Working Facilities Page REF•6 Buying Spare Parts and Vehicle Identification Numbers Page REF•9 Fault Finding Page REF•10 Glossary of Technical Terms Page REF•18

Index Page REF•23

Contents

Designed in conjunction with the Honda Motor Company of Japan, the Rover 800 series was launched in the UK in July 1986 as a replacement for the ageing Rover SD1. Initially available in four-door Saloon guise, a Fastback version was added to the range in mid-1988. Minor styling revisions were applied to various models in the intervening years, culminating in a major facelift to all models for the 1992 model year. This saw the introduction of the “second generation” Rover 800 series with significant styling and engineering revisions, together with the launch of the Coupe model later in the same year.

Three different engines are used in the Rover models covered by this manual. 820 models are powered by a 2.0 litre, 4-cylinder, sixteen valve engine with singlepoint or multi-point fuel injection. The early version of this power unit is based on the proven O-series engine used previously in the Montego and earlier Austin Rover vehicles, but with an all new cylinder head and valve train. For the 1992 model year the T-series version was announced which shared many of the O-series components but with significant revisions in many areas. Both these engines

are available in normally aspirated or turbocharged versions.

825, 827 and Sterling models are powered by a 2.5 or 2.7 litre V6 twenty four valve engine with programmed fuel injection. Both versions of this engine are virtually identical apart from an increase in cylinder bore diameter to provide the larger capacity of the

2.7 litre unit.

On all models, the engine is mounted transversely at the front of the car and drives the front wheels through a five-speed manual, or four speed automatic transmission.

Suspension is independent at the front by double wishbones and coil springs, and at the rear by transverse links and coil springs. Power-assisted steering is standard on all models.

A comprehensive range of electrical and interior features are offered as standard equipment, including electric front windows, central locking and stereo radio cassette player. Anti-lock braking, air conditioning, headlight wash, electric rear windows, driver and passenger airbags and many other features and accessories are also available as optional or standard equipment according to model.

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug, who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Project vehicles

The main project vehicle used in the preparation of this manual, and appearing in many of the photographic sequences was a 1986 Rover 820 Se Saloon. Additional work was carried out and photographed on a 1988 Rover 820 Si Fastback and a 1992 Rover Sterling.

0•4 Introduction

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Introduction to the Rover 800 Series

Rover 820i Saloon Rover 800 Coupe

Safety First! 0•5

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Scalding

• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot.

• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing

• When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps.

Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack.

• Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive.

• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.

• Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools).

• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit.

• Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.

• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock

• Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication

• Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut.

• Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice.

• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket.

• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Asbestos

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Special hazards

Hydrofluoric acid

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 4000C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed,

the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned.

• When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery.

• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags

• Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body

to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember...

• Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle – especially the electrical system.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

A few tips

DON’T

• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability – get assistance.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

0•6 General dimensions and weights

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Dimensions

Overall length:

Pre-1992 model year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4694.0 mm 1992 model year onwards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4882.0 mm

Overall width - including mirrors:

Pre-1992 model year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1946.0 mm 1992 model year onwards:

Saloon and Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1965.0 mm Coupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1900.0 mm

Overall height (unladen):

Pre-1992 model year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1398.0 mm 1992 model year onwards:

Saloon and Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1363.0 mm

Coupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1400.0 mm Wheelbase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2760.0 mm Front track . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1490.0 mm Rear track . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1450.0 mm Ground clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145.0 mm

Weights

Kerb weight*:

820 Saloon models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1305 to 1405 kg 820 Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1335 to 1435 kg 820 Coupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1420 kg 825 and Sterling Saloon models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1360 to 1400 kg 827 and Sterling Saloon models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1400 to 1470 kg 827 and Sterling Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1410 to 1510 kg 827 Coupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1450 kg

Maximum roof rack load:

Saloon and Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 kg Coupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 kg

Maximum towing weight:

820 models with manual transmission:

Braked trailer (all models except Turbo) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1550 kg

Braked trailer (Turbo models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1025 kg

Unbraked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 kg

820 models with automatic transmission:

Braked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1025 kg

Unbraked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 kg

825, 827 and Sterling models:

Braked trailer** . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1550 kg

Unbraked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 kg Maximum towing hitch downward load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 kg

*Depending on model and specification - refer to Rover dealer for exact recommendations. **On automatic transmission models, an auxiliary fluid cooler must be fitted if the towing weight is to exceed 1000 kg.

Roadside Repairs 0•7

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Jacking, towing and wheel changing

Jacking

The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit should only be used for changing the roadwheels - see “Wheel changing” later in this Section. When carrying out any other kind of work, raise the vehicle using a hydraulic (or “trolley”) jack, and always supplement the jack with axle stands positioned under the vehicle jacking points (see illustration).

When using a hydraulic jack or axle stands, always position the jack head or axle stand

head under one of the relevant jacking points.

To raise the front of the vehicle, position the jack head under the front towing eye which is welded to the longitudinal support member running under the engine. Do not position the jack under the longitudinal member itself, or under the sump or any of the steering or suspension components.

To raise the rear of the vehicle, position the jack head under the rear towing eye which is welded to the reinforcement panel under the spare wheel carrier.

If the side of the vehicle is to be raised, position the jack head under the reinforced areas at the front or rear of the side sills.

The jack supplied with the vehicle also locates in the reinforced areas of the side sills. Ensure that the jack head is correctly engaged before attempting to raise the vehicle.

Never work under, around or near a raised vehicle unless it is adequately supported in at least two places.

Jacking points and axle stand locations

1 Front towing eye - used for raising the front of the car 2 Reinforced sill area - used for raising the side of the car, or

supporting on axle stands

3 Front chassis member - used for supporting the car on axle

stands

4 Rear chassis member - used for supporting the car on axle stands

5 Reinforced sill area - used for raising the side of the car, or

supporting on axle stands 6 Rear towing eye - used for raising the rear of the car 7 Square tubular chassis sections - Not suitable for jacking or

supporting 8 Suspension components - Not suitable for jacking or supporting

0•8 Roadside Repairs

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Towing

Towing eyes are fitted to the front and rear of the vehicle for attachment of a tow rope. The front towing eye is situated under the centre of the front bumper and the rear towing eye is located under the centre of the rear bumper behind a detachable trim plate.

Always turn the ignition key to position II to ensure that the steering is unlocked and that the various switches (indicators and lights) are functional. It should also be noted that the brake servo and power-assisted steering will not be operating with the engine switched off and therefore an allowance will need to be made for reduced braking efficiency and increased steering effort.

Before being towed, release the handbrake and place the gear lever in neutral. Do not tow at a speed greater than 30 mph. On no account may the car be towed with the front wheels on the ground if the transmission is faulty, if the transmission oil or fluid is low or if the towing distance is greater than 30 miles.

Wheel changing

To change a roadwheel, first remove the spare wheel and jack which are located under the luggage compartment floor (see illustration). Firmly apply the handbrake and engage first gear on manual transmission models or PARK on automatic transmission models. Place chocks at the front and rear of the wheel diagonally opposite the one to be changed.

Remove the wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts with the tools provided in the tool kit. Position the jack head in the reinforced jacking point, at the base of the sill nearest to the wheel to be changed. Raise the jack to just take the weight of the car. If the tyre is flat, position the base of the jack so that it is flat on the ground. If the tyre is not flat, position the jack so that the base elbow is resting on the ground and the base is just clear (see illustration). Raise the vehicle until the wheel is just clear of the ground, then remove the wheel nuts and the wheel. Fit the spare wheel and screw on the wheel nuts. Lower the jack until the tyre is just touching the ground, and tighten the wheel nuts moderately tight. Now lower the jack fully and tighten the wheel nuts securely in a diagonal sequence. Refit the wheel trim, then remove the jack and stow it together with the wheel and tools in the luggage compartment. Remember to check

the tightness of the wheel nuts using a torque wrench at the earliest opportunity.

Spare wheel and tool locations

1 Tool kit 2 Floor panel

3 Spare wheel clamp 4 Spare wheel

Using the vehicle tool kit jack

1 Jack base positioned flat on the ground (deflated tyre) 2 Jack positioned with base elbow on the ground, and base just clear (inflated tyre)

Roadside Repairs 0•9

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

4 Before connecting the booster

battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.

4 Ensure that all electrical equipment

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

4 Make sure that the booster battery is

the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

4 If the battery is being jump-started

from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

4 Make sure that the transmission is in

neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are

three possibilities:

The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by

leaving the lights on.

The charging system is not working

properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).

The battery itself is at fault

(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started.

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.

Jump starting

0•10 Roadside Repairs

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

Identifying leaks

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking. Some

fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak.

Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil Gearbox oil

Brake fluid Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system - precaution

The radio/cassette unit fitted as standard equipment by Rover is equipped with a builtin security code, to deter thieves. If the power source to the unit is cut, the anti-theft system will activate. Even if the power source is immediately reconnected, the radio/cassette unit will not function until the correct security

code has been entered. Therefore, if you do not know the correct security code for the radio/cassette unit do not disconnect either of the battery terminals, or remove the radio/cassette unit from the vehicle.

To enter the correct security code, follow

the instructions provided with the radio/cassette player handbook.

If an incorrect code is entered, the unit will

become locked, and cannot be operated.

If this happens, or if the security code is lost or forgotten, seek the advice of your Rover dealer.

Conversion Factors 0•11

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Length (distance)

Inches (in) x 25.4 = Millimetres (mm) x 0.0394 = Inches (in) Feet (ft) x 0.305 = Metres (m) x 3.281 = Feet (ft) Miles x 1.609 = Kilometres (km) x 0.621 = Miles

Volume (capacity)

Cubic inches (cu in; in3) x 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm3) x 0.061 = Cubic inches (cu in; in3) Imperial pints (Imp pt) x 0.568 = Litres (l) x 1.76 = Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) x 1.137 = Litres (l) x 0.88 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) x 1.201 = US quarts (US qt) x 0.833 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) x 0.946 = Litres (l) x 1.057 = US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) x 4.546 = Litres (l) x 0.22 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) x 1.201 = US gallons (US gal) x 0.833 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal) x 3.785 = Litres (l) x 0.264 = US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight)

Ounces (oz) x 28.35 = Grams (g) x 0.035 = Ounces (oz) Pounds (lb) x 0.454 = Kilograms (kg) x 2.205 = Pounds (lb)

Force

Ounces-force (ozf; oz) x 0.278 = Newtons (N) x 3.6 = Ounces-force (ozf; oz) Pounds-force (lbf; lb) x 4.448 = Newtons (N) x 0.225 = Pounds-force (lbf; lb) Newtons (N) x 0.1 = Kilograms-force (kgf; kg) x 9.81 = Newtons (N)

Pressure

Pounds-force per square inch x 0.070 = Kilograms-force per square x 14.223 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Pounds-force per square inch x 0.068 = Atmospheres (atm) x 14.696 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Pounds-force per square inch x 0.069 = Bars x 14.5 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Pounds-force per square inch x 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa) x 0.145 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Kilopascals (kPa) x 0.01 = Kilograms-force per square x 98.1 = Kilopascals (kPa)

centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2) Millibar (mbar) x 100 = Pascals (Pa) x 0.01 = Millibar (mbar) Millibar (mbar) x 0.0145 = Pounds-force per square inch x 68.947 = Millibar (mbar)

(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Millibar (mbar) x 0.75 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) x 1.333 = Millibar (mbar) Millibar (mbar) x 0.401 = Inches of water (inH2O) x 2.491 = Millibar (mbar)

Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) x 0.535 = Inches of water (inH

O) x 1.868 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)

Inches of water (inH2O) x 0.036 = Pounds-force per square inch x 27.68 = Inches of water (inH2O)

(psi; lbf/in

; lb/in2)

Torque (moment of force)

Pounds-force inches x 1.152 = Kilograms-force centimetre x 0.868 = Pounds-force inches (lbf in; lb in) (kgf cm; kg cm) (lbf in; lb in) Pounds-force inches x 0.113 = Newton metres (Nm) x 8.85 = Pounds-force inches

(lbf in; lb in) (lbf in; lb in) Pounds-force inches x 0.083 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 12 = Pounds-force inches (lbf in; lb in) (lbf in; lb in) Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 0.138 = Kilograms-force metres x 7.233 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)

(kgf m; kg m) Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 1.356 = Newton metres (Nm) x 0.738 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) Newton metres (Nm) x 0.102 = Kilograms-force metres x 9.804 = Newton metres (Nm)

(kgf m; kg m)

Power

Horsepower (hp) x 745.7 = Watts (W) x 0.0013 = Horsepower (hp)

Velocity (speed)

Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph) x 1.609 = Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) x 0.621 = Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption*

Miles per gallon (mpg) x 0.354 = Kilometres per litre (km/l) x 2.825 = Miles per gallon (mpg)

Temperature

Degrees Fahrenheit = (°C x 1.8) + 32 Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) x 0.56

* It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (l/100km), where mpg x l/100 km = 282

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Engine

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle) Oil filter:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion B101 V6 engines:

paper type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X119 cannister type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion E102

Cooling system

Coolant protection at 33% antifreeze/water mixture ratio:

Slush point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -19ºC (-2ºF) Solidifying point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -36ºC (-33ºF)

Coolant protection at 50% antifreeze/water mixture ratio:

Slush point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -36ºC (-33ºF) Solidifying point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -48ºC (-54ºF)

Fuel system

Air filter element:

“M” series 4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W114 “T” series 4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W601

Fuel filter:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L208 V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L207

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Accelerator cable and linkage check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Air conditioning system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Automatic transmission fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Auxiliary drivebelts check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Battery check, maintenance and charging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Braking system hydraulic fluid seal check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . 40 Clutch operation and hydraulic hose condition check . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Cooling system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Door, boot, tailgate and bonnet check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Driveshaft rubber gaiter and CV joint check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Emissions control equipment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Engine base idle speed and CO content check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Engine compartment wiring check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Manual transmission oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Manual transmission oil renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Roadwheel nut tightness check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Routine maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Steering, suspension and roadwheel check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Timing belt condition and tension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Tyre and tyre pressure checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Underbody and fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . . . . . . . . . . 8 Windscreen/tailgate and headlight washer system and wiper

blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

1•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Ignition system

Firing order:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end) V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-4-2-5-3-6 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end on rear bank)

Spark plugs:

Type: *

4-cylinder normally aspirated engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC9YCC 4-cylinder turbocharged engines up to 1992 model year . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC 4-cylinder turbocharged engines 1992 model year onwards . . . . . Champion RC9YCC V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC9YCC4

Electrode gap: *

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

Spark plug (HT) leads:

Type:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-05 boxed set V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion boxed set not available

Maximum resistance per lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 000 ohms

* Information on spark plug types and electrode gaps is as recommended by Champion Spark Plug. Where alternative types are used, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations

Braking system

Front brake pad thickness (including backing but excluding shims):

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17.4 mm Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.2 mm

Rear brake pad thickness (including backing):

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14.5 mm Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.2 mm

Tyres

Tyre pressures (cold): Front Rear

195/70 VR 14 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 bar (26 psi) 1.8 bar (26 psi) 195/65 VR 15 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar (28 psi) 2.0 bar (28 psi) 205/55 VR or ZR 16 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.2 bar (32 psi) 205/60 VR 15 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar (28 psi) 2.0 bar (28 psi) 215/45 ZR 17 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 bar (34 psi) 1.9 bar (28 psi) 115/70 R 15 (space saver spare tyre) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.1 bar (60 psi) 4.1 bar (60 psi)

Note: For sustained high speeds above 100 mph (160 km/h), increased pressures are necessary. Consult the driver’s handbook supplied with the vehicle.

Wiper blades

Windscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-5103 Tailgate/rear window . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-5103

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Power steering pump bolts:

4-cylinder engines - rear-mounted pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18 4-cylinder engines - front-mounted pump:

Early version (4 mounting bolts) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7 Later version (5 mounting bolts) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

V6 engines:

Mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 29

Adjusting nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16 Power steering pump drivebelt tensioner wheel retaining nut (4-cylinder engines - rear mounted pump) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33 Alternator pivot and mounting bolts (4-cylinder engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18 Alternator adjustment bracket bolts (4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9 Alternator side pivot bolt (V6 engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33 Alternator lower mounting nut (V6 engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 17 Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33 Manual transmission filler/level and drain plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33 Automatic transmission drain plugs:

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11 V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Spark plugs:

4-cylinder engines up to 1991 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13 4-cylinder engines from 1991 onward . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18 V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81

1•2 Specifications

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Lubricants and fluids

Component or system Lubricant type/specification

1 Engine Multigrade engine oil to specification API SG/CD or better,

viscosity range 5W/50 to 10W/40

2 Cooling system Soft water, and antifreeze (ethylene glycol-based, suitable

for use in mixed-metal cooling systems)

3 Manual transmission Multigrade engine oil to specification API SG/CD or better,

viscosity 10W/40

4 Automatic transmission Dexron IID type ATF 5 Power steering fluid reservoir Dexron IID type ATF 6 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir Hydraulic fluid to FMVSS 116 DOT 4 General greasing Multipurpose lithium based grease

Capacities

Engine oil (including filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litres Cooling system:

4-cylinder engines:

“M” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 litres “T” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 litres

V6 engines:

2.5 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 litres

2.7 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.6 litres Manual transmission (drain and refill) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 litres Automatic transmission (drain and refill):

4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litres

V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.2 litres Power steering reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 litres Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 litres

Lubricants, fluids and capacities 1•3

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Rover 800 Series maintenance schedule

1•4 Maintenance and servicing

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

The manufacturer’s recommended maintenance schedule for these vehicles is as described below - note that the schedule starts from the vehicle’s date of registration. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the factory for vehicles driven daily, but subjected only to “normal” use. If you wish to keep your car in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures even more often. Because frequent maintenance enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your car, we encourage you to do so. If your usage is not “normal”, shorter intervals are also recommended - the most important examples of

these are noted in the schedule. These shorter intervals apply particularly if you drive in dusty areas, tow a caravan or trailer, sit with the engine idling or drive at low speeds for extended periods (ie, in heavy traffic), or drive for short distances (less than four miles) in below-freezing temperatures.

Although the manufacturer’s intervals have been extended to one main service at 12 000 mile (12 monthly) intervals for 1994 models onward, the earlier schedule which also includes a lubrication service at 6000 mile (6 monthly) intervals, is the schedule shown in this Chapter.

W eekly checks

mm Check the engine oil level, and top-up if necessary

(Section 3).

mm Check the brake fluid level, and top-up if necessary

(Section 3). If repeated topping-up is required, check the system for leaks or damage at the earliest possible opportunity (Section 24).

mm Check the windscreen/tailgate and headlight washer fluid

level, and top-up if necessary (Section 3).

mm Check the tyre pressures, including the spare (Section 4). mm Visually check the tyres for excessive tread wear, or

damage (Section 4).

mm Check the operation of all (exterior and interior) lights and

the horn, wipers and windscreen/tailgate washer system (Sections 6 and 13).

mm Renew any blown bulbs (Chapter 12), and clean the

lenses of all exterior lights.

mm Check the coolant level, and top-up if necessary (Sec-

tion 3).

mm Check the battery electrolyte level, where applicable

(Section 3).

mm Check the power steering fluid level, and top-up if

necessary (Section 5).

mm Check the aim of the windscreen/tailgate/headlight

washer jets, correcting them if required (Section 6).

mm Check the condition of the wiper blades, renewing them if

worn or no longer effective (Section 6).

mm Visually check all reservoirs, hoses and pipes for leakage

(Section 8).

mm Check the operation of the air conditioning system (where

applicable) (Section 18).

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months, whichever occurs first

mm Check the cooling system (Section 9). mm Check the operation of the accelerator cable and linkage

(Section 10).

mm Renew the spark plugs (models without emission control

equipment) (Section 11).

mm Renew the air cleaner filter element (models without

emission control equipment) (Section 12).

mm Check the electrical system (Section 13). mm Check the battery (Section 14). mm Check the seat belts (Section 15). mm Check the auxiliary drivebelt(s) (Section 16). mm Check the condition of all engine compartment wiring

(Section 17).

mm Check the condition of all air conditioning system

components (where applicable) (Section 18).

mm Check the engine idle speed and mixture (where

applicable) (Section 19).

mm Check the manual transmission oil level (Section 20). mm Check the steering, suspension and roadwheels (Sec-

tion 21).

mm Check the driveshaft rubber gaiters and CV joints (Sec-

tion 22).

mm Check the exhaust system (Section 23). mm Check the underbody, and all fuel/brake lines (Sec-

tion 24).

mm Check the clutch operation and hydraulic hose condition

(Section 25).

mm Check the brake system (Section 26). mm Check the doors and bonnet, and lubricate their hinges

and locks (Section 27).

mm Check the condition of the bodywork and all exterior trim

(Section 28).

mm Check the security of all roadwheel nuts (Section 29). mm Road test (Section 30). mm Check the level of the automatic transmission fluid after

road test (Section 31).

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months, whichever occurs first

mm Change the engine oil and filter (Section 7). mm Check under the bonnet for fluid leaks and hose condition

(Section 8).

Maintenance and servicing 1•5

1 Vehicle identification plate 2 Screen washer reservoir filler 3 Power steering fluid reservoir

filler

4 Cooling system expansion tank

filler

5 Front shock absorber top

mounting

6 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir

filler 7 Brake master cylinder 8 Vacuum servo unit 9 Fuel filter 10 Power steering pump drivebelt

(early models) 11 Distributor cap 12 Ignition coil 13 Brake pressure reducing valve 14 Fuse and relay box 15 Battery negative terminal 16 Battery positive terminal 17 Ignition/fuel ECU 18 Air cleaner assembly 19 Radiator cooling fan 20 Air cleaner intake trunking 21 Engine oil dipstick 22 Alternator 23 Thermostat housing 24 Engine oil filler cap

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2 years, whichever occurs first

mm Renew the spark plugs (models with emission control

equipment) (Section 11).

mm Renew the air cleaner filter element (models with emission

control equipment) (Section 12).

mm Check the condition and tension of the timing belt

(Section 32).

mm Check the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system (Section 33). mm Renew the fuel filter (Section 34). mm Renew the automatic transmission fluid (Section 35). mm Renew the brake fluid (Section 36). mm Renew the manual transmission oil (Section 37). mm Renew the coolant (Section 38).

Every 48 000 miles (80 000 km)

mm Renew the timing belt (Section 39).

Every 60 000 miles (100 000 km) or 5 years, whichever occurs first

mm Renew the braking system rubber seals (recommendation

only) (Section 40).

mm Check the operation of the emission control equipment

(Section 41).

Engine compartment component locations 4-cylinder engine models with single-point fuel injection

1•6 Maintenance and servicing

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Vehicle identification plate 2 Screen washer reservoir filler 3 Power steering fluid reservoir

filler

4 Cooling system expansion tank

filler

5 Front shock absorber top

mounting

6 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir

filler 7 Brake master cylinder 8 Vacuum servo unit 9 Fuel filter 10 Ignition system ECU 11 Ignition coil 12 Brake pressure reducing valve 13 Fuse and relay box 14 Battery negative terminal 15 Battery positive terminal 16 Air cleaner assembly 17 Radiator cooling fan 18 Air cleaner intake trunking 19 Engine oil dipstick 20 Airflow meter 21 Throttle housing 22 Plenum chamber 23 Engine oil filler cap 24 Alternator 25 Power steering pump (later

models)

Engine compartment component locations 4-cylinder engine models with multi-point fuel injection

1 Engine oil dipstick 2 Screen washer reservoir filler 3 Power steering fluid reservoir

filler 4 Cooling system expansion tank

filler 5 Alternator 6 Power steering pump 7 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir

filler 8 Fuel filter 9 Control box 10 Ignition coil 11 Throttle body 12 ABS modulator 13 Fuse and relay box 14 Battery negative terminal 15 Battery positive terminal 16 Air cleaner assembly 17 Engine oil filler cap

Engine compartment component locations - V6 engine models

Maintenance and servicing 1•7

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Engine undertray 2 Front towing eye 3 Longitudinal support member 4 Clutch slave cylinder 5 Reversing light switch 6 Front tie-bar 7 Transmission drain plug 8 Inner constant velocity joint 9 Transmission filler plug 10 Front anti-roll bar 11 Gearchange rod 12 Steady rod 13 Fuel pipes 14 Exhaust section flange joint 15 Power steering gear 16 Steering track rod 17 Front lower suspension arm 18 Brake caliper 19 Oil filter 20 Driveshaft damper 21 Engine oil drain plug

Underside view at front end showing component locations on 4-cylinder engine models

1 Exhaust intermediate section 2 Fuel tank 3 Exhaust rear heat shield 4 Handbrake cable 5 Fuel pipes 6 Trailing link 7 Fuel filler neck connection 8 Transverse link 9 Fuel tank retaining straps 10 Rear anti-roll bar 11 Rear silencer 12 Brake caliper

Underside view at rear end

3 Fluid level checks

General

1 Fluids are an essential part of the lubrication, cooling, braking and other systems. Because these fluids gradually become depleted and/or contaminated during normal operation of the vehicle, they must be periodically replenished. See “Lubricants, fluids and capacities” at the beginning of this Chapter before adding fluid to any of the following components. Note: The vehicle

must be on level ground before fluid levels can be checked.

Engine oil

2 The engine oil level is checked with a dipstick located at the front of the engine in the centre, or on the right-hand side (see illustration). The dipstick extends through a metal tube, from which it protrudes down into the sump at the bottom of the engine. 3 The oil level should be checked before the vehicle is driven, or about 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. If the level is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will remain in the engine upper components, producing an inaccurate reading. 4 Pull the dipstick from the tube, and wipe all the oil from the end with a clean rag or paper towel; note the dipstick’s maximum and minimum levels, indicated by holes on the dipstick (see illustration). Insert the clean dipstick all the way back into its metal tube,

and pull it out again. Observe the oil on the end of the dipstick; its level should be between these two holes. 5 Do not allow the level to drop below the minimum level notch, or oil starvation may cause engine damage. Conversely, overfilling

the engine (adding oil above the maximum level notch) may cause oil-fouled spark plugs, oil leaks or oil seal failures. 6 The oil filler cap is screwed into the righthand front end of the valve cover; unscrew it to add oil (see illustrations). When topping-

Maintenance procedures

1•8 Maintenance and servicing

3.6b . . . and on V6 engines3.6a Topping up the engine oil on 4-

cylinder engines . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain the Rover 800 Series models for peak performance, economy, safety and long life.

Contained in this Chapter is a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each item on the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component replacement and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the location of various components.

Servicing your Rover in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide it with a

planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals will not produce the same results.

As you service your car, you will discover that many of the procedures can - and should be grouped together, because of the nature of the particular procedure you’re performing, or because of the close proximity to one another of two otherwise-unrelated components.

For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, you should inspect the exhaust, suspension, steering and fuel systems while you’re under the vehicle. When you’re checking the tyres, it makes good sense to check the brakes and wheel bearings, especially if the roadwheels have already been removed.

Finally, let’s suppose you have to borrow or

hire a torque wrench. Even if you only need to tighten the spark plugs, you might as well check the torque of as many critical fasteners as time allows.

2 Routine maintenance

The first step of this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the Sections which are relevant to the procedures you’re planning to carry out, then make a list of, and gather together, all the parts and tools you will need to do the job. If it looks as if you might run into problems during a particular segment of some procedure, seek advice from your local parts man or dealer service department.

Weekly checks

3.4 Note the dipstick’s maximum and

minimum levels, indicated by holes on the

dipstick

3.2 Engine oil dipstick location (arrowed) on V6 engines

up, use only the correct grade and type of oil, as given in the “Lubricants, fluids and capacities” Section of this Chapter; use a funnel if necessary to prevent spills. After adding the oil, refit the filler cap hand-tight. Start the engine, and allow it to idle while the oil is redistributed around the engine - while you are waiting, look carefully for any oil leaks, particularly around the oil filter or drain plug. Stop the engine; check the oil level again, after the oil has had enough time to drain from the upper block and cylinder head galleries. 7 Checking the oil level is an important preventive maintenance step. A continuallydropping oil level indicates oil leakage through damaged seals and from loose connections, or oil consumption past worn piston rings or valve guides. If the oil looks milky in colour, or has water droplets in it, the cylinder head gasket may be blown - the engine’s compression pressure should be checked immediately (see Chapter 2). The condition of the oil should also be checked. Each time you check the oil level, slide your thumb and index finger up the dipstick before wiping off the oil. If you see small dirt or metal particles clinging to the dipstick, the oil should be changed.

Coolant

Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank filler cap, or to disturb any part of the

cooling system, while it or the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding.

8 All vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with a sealed, pressurised cooling system. A translucent plastic expansion tank, located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment, is connected by a hose to the thermostat housing or radiator top hose. As the coolant heats up during engine operation, surplus coolant passes through the connecting hose into the expansion tank. As the engine cools, the coolant is automatically drawn back into the cooling system’s main components, to maintain the correct level. 9 While the coolant level must be checked regularly, remember that it will vary with the temperature of the engine. When the engine is cold, the level should be up to the pipe outlet on the side of the tank, but once the engine has warmed up, the level may rise to above this level. 10 For an accurate check of the coolant level, the engine must be cold and the level must be up to the pipe outlet. If it is below this level, the coolant must be topped-up as follows. 11 First prepare a sufficient quantity of coolant mixture, using clean, soft water and antifreeze of the recommended type, in the specified mixture ratio. If only a small amount of coolant is required to bring the system up to the proper level, plain water can be used, but repeatedly doing this will dilute the antifreeze/water solution in the system, reducing the protection it should provide against freezing and corrosion. To maintain

the specified antifreeze/water ratio, it is essential to top-up the coolant level with the correct mixture, as described here. Use only ethylene/glycol type antifreeze, and do not use supplementary inhibitors or additives.

Warning: Never remove the expansion tank filler cap when the engine is running, or has

just been switched off, as the cooling system will be hot, and the consequent escaping steam and scalding coolant could cause serious injury.

12 If topping-up is necessary, wait until the system has cooled completely (or at least 10 minutes after switching off the engine, if lack of time means it is absolutely necessary to top-up while the engine may still be warm). Wrap a thick cloth around the expansion tank filler cap, and unscrew it one full turn. If any hissing is heard as steam escapes, wait until the hissing ceases, indicating that pressure is released, then slowly unscrew the filler cap until it can be removed. If more hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before unscrewing the filler cap completely. At all times, keep your face, hands and other exposed skin well away from the filler opening. 13 When the filler cap has been removed, add coolant to bring the level up to the outlet pipe level (see illustration). Refit the cap, tightening it securely. 14 With this type of cooling system, the addition of coolant should only be necessary at very infrequent intervals. If topping-up is regularly required, or if the coolant level drops within a short time after replenishment, there may be a leak in the system. 15 Inspect the radiator, hoses, expansion tank filler cap, radiator drain plug and water pump. If no leak is evident, have the filler cap and the entire system pressure-tested by your dealer or garage; this will usually show up a small leak not otherwise visible.

Windscreen/tailgate and headlight washer fluid

16 Fluid for the windscreen/tailgate/headlight washer system is stored in a plastic reservoir, the filler neck of which is located at the righthand front corner of the engine compartment. 17 To check the fluid level, release the cap and observe the level in the reservoir by looking down the filler neck. In milder

climates, plain water can be used to top-up the reservoir, but the reservoir should be kept no more than two-thirds full, to allow for expansion should the water freeze. In colder climates, the use of a specially-formulated windscreen washer fluid, available at your dealer or any car accessory shop, will help lower the freezing point of the fluid. Do not use regular (engine) antifreeze - it will damage the vehicle’s paintwork.

Battery electrolyte

18 On models not equipped with a sealed battery (see Section 9), check the electrolyte level of all six battery cells. The level must be approximately 10 mm above the plates; this may be shown by maximum and minimum level lines marked on the battery’s casing. If the level is low, use a coin to release the filler/vent cap, and add distilled water. Install and retighten the cap.

Caution: Overfilling the cells may cause electrolyte to spill over during periods of heavy charging, causing corrosion or damage. Refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 9.

Brake fluid

19 The brake fluid reservoir is located on the top of the brake master cylinder, attached to the front of the vacuum servo unit. The “MAX” and “MIN” marks are indicated on the side of the translucent reservoir, and the fluid level should be maintained between these marks at all times. 20 The brake fluid inside the reservoir is readily visible. With the vehicle on level ground, the level should be on or just below the “MAX” mark. 21 Progressive wear of the brake pad linings causes the level of the brake fluid to gradually fall; however, when the brake pads are renewed, the original level of the fluid is restored. It is not therefore necessary to topup the level to compensate for this minimal drop, but the level must never be allowed to fall below the minimum mark. 22 If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag before removing the cap - do not invert the cap after removal. When adding fluid, pour it carefully into the reservoir, to avoid spilling it on surrounding painted surfaces (see illustration).

Weekly Checks 1•9

3.22 Topping up the brake master cylinder reservoir

3.13 Topping up the cooling system

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Be sure to use only the specified hydraulic fluid (see “Lubricants, fluids and capacities” at the start of this Chapter) since mixing different types of fluid can cause damage to the system.

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use

extreme caution when handling and pouring it. Wash off spills immediately with plenty of water. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air. Excess moisture can cause corrosion and a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

23 When adding fluid, it is a good idea to inspect the reservoir for contamination. The system should be drained and refilled if deposits, dirt particles or contamination are seen in the fluid. 24 After filling the reservoir to the correct level, make sure that the cap is refitted

securely, to avoid leaks and the entry of foreign matter. 25 If the reservoir requires repeated replenishing to maintain the correct level, this is an indication of an hydraulic leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately.

Power steering fluid

26 See Section 5 of this Chapter.

4 Tyre and tyre pressure

checks

1 Periodic inspection of the tyres may spare you from the inconvenience of being stranded with a flat tyre. It can also provide you with vital information regarding possible problems in the steering and suspension systems before major damage occurs. 2 The current tyres are equipped with tread wear indicator (TWI) bands, which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately

1.6 mm. Most tyres have a mark around the tyre at regular intervals to indicate the location of the tread wear indicators, the mark being TWI, an arrow, or the tyre manufacturer’s symbol. Tread wear can also be monitored with a simple inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge (see illustration). 3 Ensure that tyre pressures are checked regularly and maintained correctly (see the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter for pressures). Checking should be carried out with the tyres cold, and not immediately after

the vehicle has been in use. If the pressures are checked with the tyres hot, an apparentlyhigh reading will be obtained, owing to heat expansion. Under no circumstances should an attempt be made to reduce the pressures to the quoted cold reading in this instance, or effective under-inflation will result. Most garage forecourts have a pressure line which combines a gauge to check and adjust the tyre pressures, but they may vary in accuracy, due to general misuse and abuse. It therefore pays to carry a good-quality tyre pressure gauge in the vehicle, to make the checks required and ensure pressure accuracy.

4 Note any abnormal tread wear (see illustration). Tread pattern irregularities such

as feathering, flat spots, and more wear on one side than the other, are indications of front wheel alignment and/or balance problems. If any of these conditions are noted, they should be rectified as soon as possible. 5 Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, owing to excessive flexing of the casing, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a consequent loss of adhesion and excessive wear, as well as the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. 6 Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced adhesion, harder ride, and the danger of damage occurring in the tyre casing. 7 Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Remove any nails or stones

1•10 Weekly Checks

4.2 Checking the tyre tread depth with a depth gauge

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)

Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension parts

Hard cornering

Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation

Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.

Check and adjust pressures If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s

tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.

Incorrect camber or castor

Repair or renew suspension parts

Malfunctioning suspension

Repair or renew suspension parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

embedded in the tread, before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail reveals that the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail, so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Do not drive on a tyre in such a condition. If in any doubt as to the possible consequences of any damage found, consult your local tyre dealer for advice. 8 General tyre wear is influenced to a large degree by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. Interchanging of tyres may result in more even wear; however, it is worth bearing in mind that if this is completely effective, the added expense is incurred of replacing simultaneously a complete set of tyres, which may prove financially restrictive for many owners. 9 Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. The front wheels should always be correctly aligned according to the settings specified by the vehicle manufacturer. 10 Don’t forget to check the spare tyre for condition and pressure. 11 Legal restrictions apply to many aspects of tyre fitting and usage, and in the UK this information is contained in the Motor Vehicle Construction and Use Regulations. It is suggested that a copy of these regulations is obtained from your local police, if in doubt as to current legal requirements with regard to tyre type and condition, minimum tread depth, etc.

5 Power steering fluid level

check

1 The power steering fluid reservoir is located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment next to the cooling system expansion tank. 2 For the fluid level check on 4-cylinder models, the power steering system must be cold; on V6 models, it may be either hot or cold.

3 Use a clean rag to wipe the filler cap and the surrounding area, to prevent foreign matter from entering the system. Unscrew and remove the filler cap. 4 Check that the fluid level is up to the “MAX” mark on the dipstick. On V6 engine models, there is a scale on both sides of the dipstick, one for hot checking and one for cold checking. 5 Top-up the level to the “MAX” mark, using the grade of fluid specified at the beginning of this Chapter (see illustration). Be careful not to introduce dirt into the system, and do not overfill. The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated.

6 Refit the filler cap.

6 Windscreen/tailgate and

headlight washer system and wiper blade check

1 The windscreen and tailgate wiper and blade assembly should be inspected at the specified intervals for damage, loose components, and cracked or worn blade elements. 2 Road film can build up on the wiper blades and affect their efficiency, so they should be washed regularly with a mild detergent solution. 3 The action of the wiping mechanism can loosen bolts, nuts and fasteners, so they

should be checked and tightened, as necessary, at the same time as the wiper blades are checked. 4 If the wiper blade elements are cracked, worn or warped, or no longer clean adequately, they should be replaced with new ones. 5 Switch on the ignition, and the windscreen wipers, then park the wipers vertically on the windscreen while they are still running. Lift the wiper arm and blade away from the glass. 6 To remove the wiper blade, depress the catch on the blade attachment, then withdraw the blade assembly off the arm (see

illustration). 7 The tailgate wiper blade is removed in the

same way, but it is not necessary to park it in the centre of the glass prior to removal. 8 If the metal part of the wiper blade is in good condition, it may be possible to renew the rubber insert separately. The insert can be obtained from a car accessory shop and, according to type, it may need to be cut to the correct length before sliding into the clips. 9 Refit the wiper blade assembly using a reversal of the removal procedure, making sure that it fully engages with the spring clip. 10 Check that the washer jets direct the fluid onto the upper part of the windscreen/tailgate, and if necessary adjust the small sphere on the jet with a pin. Note that the headlight washer jets are of the fixed type and cannot be adjusted.

Weekly Checks 1•11

6.6 Remove the windscreen wiper blade

by depressing the catch on the blade, then

withdraw the blade assembly off the arm

5.5 Topping up the power steering fluid reservoir

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 6000 miles or 6 months, whichever occurs first

7 Engine oil and filter change

1 Make sure that you have all the necessary tools before you begin this procedure. You should also have plenty of rags or newspapers handy, for mopping up any spills. 2 To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. 3 Access to the underside of the vehicle is greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on a hoist, driven onto ramps, or supported by axle stands.

Warning: Do not work under a vehicle which is supported only by an hydraulic or scissor-type jack, or by bricks, blocks of wood, etc.

4 If this is your first oil change, get under the vehicle and familiarise yourself with the position of the engine oil drain plug location in the sump. The engine and exhaust components will be warm during the actual work, so try to anticipate any potential problems while the engine and accessories are cool. 5 The oil should preferably be changed when

Frequent oil changes are the best preventive maintenance the home

mechanic can give the engine, because ageing oil becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

the engine is still at normal operating temperature, just after a run; warm oil and sludge will flow out more easily. Park the vehicle on firm, level ground, apply the handbrake, then select 1st or reverse gear (manual transmission) or the “P” position (automatics). Open the bonnet and remove the engine oil filler cap from the valve cover, then remove the oil level dipstick. 6 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it securely on axle stands. Remove the front right-hand roadwheel, then remove the plastic panel under the wheelarch to provide additional access to the oil filter.

Warning: To avoid personal injury, never get beneath the vehicle when it is supported by

only by a jack. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed solely for raising the vehicle to remove and refit the roadwheels. Always use axle stands to support the vehicle when it becomes necessary to place your body underneath the vehicle.

7 Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust components, place the drain pan under the drain plug, and unscrew the plug. If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns. As the plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply, so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the pan, not up your sleeve! Allow the oil to drain into the drain pan, and check the condition of the plug’s sealing washer; renew it if worn or damaged. 8 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the pan as the oil flow slows to a trickle. When the oil has completely drained, wipe clean the drain plug and its threads in the sump and refit the plug, tightening it securely. 9 On all engines except the 2.5 litre V6, the oil filter renewal procedure is relatively simple; proceed as follows. Reposition the drain pan under the oil filter then, using a filter removal tool, unscrew the oil filter from the housing; be prepared for some oil spillage (see illustration). Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the engine; if it has, carefully remove it. Withdraw

the filter, taking care to spill as little oil as possible. 10 Using a clean, lint-free rag, wipe clean the cylinder block around the filter mounting. If there are no specific instructions supplied with it, fit a new oil filter as follows. Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the filter’s sealing ring. Screw the filter into position on the engine until it seats, then tighten it through a further half- to three-quarters of a turn only. Tighten the filter by hand only - do not use any tools. 11 On 2.5 litre V6 engines the filter is a cartridge contained within the filter housing. 12 Reposition the drain pan under the filter assembly and first, drain the filter by unscrewing the drain plug on the side of the housing (see illustration). Refit the plug when the filter has drained. Now undo the three retaining nuts and withdraw the baseplate from the filter assembly. As you do this be prepared for oil spillage and catch the filter cartridge and its components, which will fall out and probably land in the oil as the baseplate is removed. Retrieve the filter lower spring and the sealing ring on the baseplate. 13 Clean the baseplate thoroughly and wipe around the inside of the filter housing using a clean lint-free rag. 14 Locate the new sealing ring in the baseplate, then fit the spring to the locating lugs in the baseplate. Locate the filter in the housing, and refit the baseplate. Screw on the three nuts and tighten them securely. 15 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the vehicle, refit the access panel and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground. 16 Refill the engine with oil, using the correct grade and type of oil, as given in the “Lubricants, fluids and capacities” Section of this Chapter. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time, until the level is up

to the lower notch on the dipstick. Adding approximately 0.5 to 1.0 litre will raise the level to the dipstick’s upper notch. 17 Start the engine. The oil pressure warning light will take a few seconds to go out while the new filter fills with oil; do not race the engine while the light is on. Run the engine for a few minutes, while checking for leaks around the oil filter seal and the drain plug. 18 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter now completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, adding more oil as necessary. 19 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to “General repair procedures” in the Reference Section of this manual.

8 Underbonnet check for fluid

leaks and hose condition

Caution: Renewal of air conditioning hoses must be left to a dealer service department or air conditioning specialist who has the equipment to depressurise the system safely. Never remove air conditioning components or hoses until the system has been depressurised.

General

1 High temperatures in the engine compartment can cause the deterioration of the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine, accessory and emission systems operation. Periodic inspection should be made for cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and leaks. 2 Carefully check the large top and bottom radiator hoses, along with the other smallerdiameter cooling system hoses and metal pipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipes which run from the engine to the bulkhead. Inspect each hose along its entire length, replacing any that is cracked, swollen or shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may become more apparent if the hose is squeezed. 3 Make sure that all hose connections are tight. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits on the areas adjoining the leak; if the spring clamps that are used to secure the hoses in this system appear to be slackening, they should be renewed to prevent the possibility of leaks. 4 Some other hoses are secured to their fittings with clamps. Where clamps are used, check that they haven’t lost their tension, allowing the hose to leak. If clamps aren’t used, make sure the hose has not expanded and/or hardened where it slips over the fitting, allowing it to leak. 5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs of leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering

1•12 Every 6000 miles

7.12 Oil filter cartridge components on

2.5 litre V6 engines

1 Engine oil drain plug 2 Oil filter housing drain plug 3 Baseplate retaining nuts 4 Baseplate 5 Oil filter cartridge 6 Spring locating lugs 7 Spring 8 Sealing ring

7.9 Using a filter removal tool, unscrew the oil filter from the housing

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

fluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in the same place, close inspection of the ground underneath it will soon show any leaks; ignore the puddle of water which will be left if the air conditioning system is in use. As soon as a leak is detected, its source must be traced and rectified. Where oil has been leaking for some time, it is usually necessary to use a steam cleaner, pressure washer or similar, to clean away the accumulated dirt, so that the exact source of the leak can be identified.

Vacuum hoses

6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses, especially those in the emissions system, to be numbered or colour-coded, or to be identified by coloured stripes moulded into them. Various systems require hoses with different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance and temperature resistance. When renewing hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the same material. 7 Often the only effective way to check a hose is to remove it completely from the vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure correct installation. 8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to include any plastic T-fittings in the check. Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check the hose where it fits over the fitting

for distortion, which could cause leakage. 9 A small piece of vacuum hose (quarter-inch inside diameter) can be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end of the hose to your ear, and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the “hissing” sound characteristic of a vacuum leak.

Warning: When probing with the vacuum hose stethoscope, be very careful not to come into

contact with moving engine components such as the auxiliary drivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.

Fuel hoses

Warning: There are certain

precautions which must be

taken when inspecting or

servicing fuel system components. Work in a well-ventilated area, and do not allow open flames (cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) or bare light bulbs near the work area. Mop up any spills immediately, and do not store fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.

10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas where the hose bends, and also just before fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the fuel filter.

11 High-quality fuel line, usually identified by the word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on the hose, should be used for fuel line renewal. Never, under any circumstances, use unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing or water hose for fuel lines. 12 Spring-type clamps are commonly used on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their tension over a period of time, and can be “sprung” during removal. Replace all springtype clamps with screw clamps whenever a hose is replaced.

Metal lines

13 Sections of metal piping are often used for fuel line between the fuel filter and the engine. Check carefully to be sure the piping has not been bent or crimped, and that cracks have not started in the line. 14 If a section of metal fuel line must be renewed, only seamless steel piping should be used, since copper and aluminium piping don’t have the strength necessary to withstand normal engine vibration. 15 Check the metal brake lines where they enter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulic unit (if used) for cracks in the lines or loose fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls for an immediate and thorough inspection of the brake system.

Every 12 000 miles 1•13

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months, whichever occurs first

9 Cooling system check

1 The engine should be cold for the cooling system checks, so perform the following procedure before driving the vehicle, or after it has been shut off for at least three hours. 2 Remove the expansion tank filler cap (Section 3), and clean it thoroughly inside and out with a rag. Clean the filler neck on the expansion tank. The presence of rust or corrosion in the filler neck indicates that the coolant should be changed. The coolant inside the expansion tank should be relatively clean and transparent. If it is rust-coloured, drain and flush the system, and refill with a fresh coolant mixture. 3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses as described in Section 8. 4 Inspect all other cooling system components (joint faces, etc.) for leaks. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gasket with reference to Chapter 3. 5 Clean the front of the radiator with a soft brush to remove all insects, leaves, etc, embedded in the radiator fins. Be careful not

to damage the radiator fins, or cut your fingers on them.

10 Accelerator cable and

linkage check and lubrication

1 From within the engine compartment check the condition of the accelerator cable ensuring that it isn’t kinked or trapped behind any other components or fittings. Make sure that all clips and cable ties are in place and that the cable properly supported. Where cruise control is fitted, check the cruise control operating cable in the same way. 2 Operate the throttle by means of the accelerator pedal and make sure that the action is smooth without notchiness or evidence of binding. 3 Finally, lubricate the throttle linkage and the accelerator pedal pivot with a few drops of light oil.

11 Spark plug renewal

Note: Spark plug renewal at this service interval is only necessary on certain engines without emission control equipment. On all

other engines the recommended interval for spark plug renewal is every 24 000 miles or 2 years. Consult the spark plug manufacturer or a Rover dealer for their advice concerning renewal intervals.

Spark plug check and renewal

1 It is vital for the correct running, full performance and proper economy of the engine that the spark plugs perform with maximum efficiency. The most important factor in ensuring this, is that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine. The suitable type is given in the Specifications Section at the beginning of this Chapter, or in the vehicle’s Owner’s Handbook. If this type is used and the engine is in good condition, the spark plugs should not need attention between scheduled renewal intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary, and should not be attempted unless specialised equipment is available, as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends. 2 Spark plug removal and refitting requires a spark plug socket, with an extension which can be turned by a ratchet handle or similar. This socket is lined with a rubber sleeve, to protect the porcelain insulator of the spark plug, and to hold the plug while you insert it into the spark plug hole. You will also need a wire-type feeler gauge, to check and adjust the spark plug electrode gap, and a torque

wrench to tighten the new plugs to the specified torque (see illustration). 3 To remove the spark plugs, first open the bonnet; the plugs are easily reached at the top of the engine or on the front and rear facing sides. Note how the spark plug (HT) leads are routed and secured by clips, and on some engines, how they’re positioned along the channel in the cylinder head cover. To prevent the possibility of mixing up spark plug (HT) leads, it is a good idea to work on one spark plug at a time. 4 If the marks on the original-equipment spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark the leads 1 to 4 (or 1 to 6), to correspond to the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of the engine on 4-cylinder engines, and at the timing belt end of the engine on the rear bank under the brake master cylinder on V6 engines). 5 On 4-cylinder engines, undo the bolts securing the spark plug cover to the centre of the cylinder head, noting the accelerator cable support bracket on early engines. Lift off the cover and again, on early engines, release the HT lead grommet from the end of the cover. 6 On all engines, pull the leads from the plugs by gripping the rubber boot, not the lead, otherwise the lead connection may be fractured. 7 Unscrew the spark plugs, ensuring that the socket is kept in alignment with each plug - if the socket is forcibly moved to either side, the porcelain top of the plug may be broken off. If any undue difficulty is encountered when unscrewing any of the spark plugs, carefully

check the cylinder head threads and tapered sealing surfaces for signs of wear, excessive corrosion or damage; if any of these conditions is found, seek the advice of a dealer as to the best method of repair. 8 As each plug is removed, examine it as follows - this will give a good indication of the condition of the engine. If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture. 9 If the tip and insulator nose are covered with hard black-looking deposits, then this is indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich. 10 If the insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is correct, and it is likely that the engine is in good condition. 11 If you are renewing the spark plugs, purchase the new plugs, then check each of them first for faults such as cracked insulators or damaged threads. Note also that, whenever the spark plugs are renewed as a routine service operation, the spark plug (HT) leads should be checked as described below. 12 The spark plug electrode gap is of considerable importance as, if it is too large or too small, the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. The gap should be set to the value given in the Specifications Section of this Chapter. New plugs will not necessarily be set to the correct gap, so they should always be checked before fitting. 13 Special spark plug electrode gap adjusting tools are available from most motor accessory shops. 14 To set the electrode gap, measure the gap with a feeler gauge or adjusting tool, and then bend open, or closed, the outer plug electrode until the correct gap is achieved (see illustrations). The centre electrode should never be bent, as this may crack the insulation and cause plug failure, if nothing worse. If the outer electrode is not exactly over the centre electrode, bend it gently to align them. 15 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that the threaded connector sleeves at the top of the plugs are tight, and that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are

clean. Brown staining on the porcelain, immediately above the metal body, is quite normal, and does not necessarily indicate a leak between the body and insulator. 16 On installing the spark plugs, first check that the cylinder head thread and sealing surface are as clean as possible; use a clean rag wrapped around a paintbrush to wipe clean the sealing surface. Apply a smear of copper-based grease or anti-seize compound to the threads of each plug, and screw them in by hand where possible.

17 When each spark plug is started correctly on its threads, screw it down until it just seats lightly, then tighten it to the specified torque wrench setting. 18 Reconnect the spark plug (HT) leads in their correct order, using a twisting motion on the boot until it is firmly seated. On 4-cylinder engines, refit the spark cover.

Spark plug (HT) lead and distributor cap check

19 The spark plug (HT) leads should be inspected one at a time, to prevent mixing up

1•14 Every 12 000 miles

11.14c . . . then use the end of the special tool to adjust the gap

11.14b . . . or adjusting tool . . .11.14a Measure the spark plug gap with a

feeler gauge . . .

11.2 Tools required for spark plug

removal, gap adjustment and refitting

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Take extra care to enter the plug threads correctly, as the cylinder head is of aluminium alloy - it’s often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without cross-threading them. To avoid this possibility, fit a short piece of hose over the end of the spark plug. The flexible hose acts as a universal joint, to help align the plug with the plug hole. Should the plug begin to crossthread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage.

the firing order, which is essential for proper engine operation. Gain access to the leads and disconnect them as described above for the spark plug check and renewal. 20 Check inside the boot for corrosion, which will look like a white crusty powder. Clean this off as much as possible; if it is excessive, or if cleaning leaves the metal connector too badly corroded to be fit for further use, the lead must be renewed. Push the lead and boot back onto the end of the spark plug. The boot should fit tightly onto the end of the plug - if it doesn’t, remove the lead and use pliers carefully to crimp the metal connector inside the boot until the fit is snug. 21 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of the lead to remove built-up dirt and grease. Once the lead is clean, check for burns, cracks and other damage. Do not bend the lead sharply, because the conductor might break. 22 Inspect the remaining spark plug (HT) leads, ensuring that each is securely fastened at the distributor cap and spark plug when the check is complete. If any sign of arcing, severe connector corrosion, burns, cracks or other damage is noticed, obtain new spark plug (HT) leads, renewing them as a set. If new spark plug leads are to be fitted, remove and refit them one at a time, to avoid mix-ups in the firing order. 23 Refer to Chapter 5 and remove the distributor cap then thoroughly clean it inside and out with a dry lint-free rag. 24 Examine the HT lead segments inside the cap. If they appear badly burned or pitted renew the cap. Also check the carbon brush in the centre of the cap, ensuring that it is free to move and stands proud of its holder. Make sure that there are no sign of cracks or black “tracking” lines running down the inside of the cap, which will also mean renewal if evident. Refit the cap as described in Chapter 5 on completion.

12 Air cleaner element renewal

1 The air cleaner filter element is located in the air cleaner assembly mounted on the left-

hand side of the engine compartment. Undo the retaining screws and/or release the clips, and lift the air cleaner cover, disconnecting the vacuum hose where fitted. Lift the element out of the housing, together with its support frame on V6 engines, and wipe out the housing (see illustrations). Check that no foreign matter is visible, either in the air intake or in the housing. 2 If carrying out a routine service, the element must be renewed regardless of its apparent condition. If you are checking the element for any other reason, inspect its lower surface; if it is oily or very dirty, renew the element. If it is only moderately dusty, it can be re-used by blowing it clean from the upper to the lower surface with compressed air.

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air! Because it is a pleated-paper

type filter, it cannot be washed or re-oiled. If it cannot be cleaned satisfactorily with compressed air, discard and renew it. Caution: Never drive the vehicle with the air cleaner filter element removed. Excessive engine wear could result, and backfiring could even cause a fire under the bonnet.

3 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that the element and cover are securely seated, so that unfiltered air cannot enter the engine.

13 Electrical system check

1 Check the operation of all external lights and indicators (front and rear). 2 Check for satisfactory operation of the instrument panel, its illumination and warning lights, the switches and their function lights.

3 Check the horn(s) for satisfactory operation. 4 Check all other electrical equipment for

satisfactory operation. 5 Check all electrical wiring in the engine compartment for correct routing, and for any signs of physical or heat-damage or chafing.

14 Battery check, maintenance

and charging

Warning: Certain precautions must be followed when checking and servicing the

battery. Hydrogen gas, which is highly flammable, is always present in the battery cells, so keep lighted tobacco and all other open flames and sparks away from the battery. The electrolyte inside the battery is actually dilute sulphuric acid, which will cause injury if splashed on your skin or in your eyes. It will also ruin clothes and painted surfaces. When disconnecting the battery, always detach the negative (earth) lead first and connect it last!

Note: Before disconnecting the battery, refer to Section 1 of Chapter 5.

General

1 A routine preventive maintenance programme for the battery in your vehicle is the only way to ensure quick and reliable starts. Before performing any battery maintenance, make sure that you have the proper equipment necessary to work safely around the battery. 2 There are also several precautions that should be taken whenever battery maintenance is performed. Before servicing the battery, always turn the engine and all accessories off, and disconnect the lead from the negative terminal of the battery - see Chapter 5, Section 1. 3 The battery produces hydrogen gas, which is both flammable and explosive. Never create a spark, smoke, or light a match around the battery. Always charge the battery in a wellventilated area. 4 Electrolyte contains poisonous and corrosive sulphuric acid. Do not allow it to get in your eyes, on your skin, or on your clothes. Never ingest it. Wear protective safety glasses when working near the battery. Keep children away from the battery. 5 Note the external condition of the battery. If the positive terminal and lead clamp on your vehicle’s battery is equipped with a plastic

Every 12 000 miles 1•15

12.1c Lift the element out of the housing,

together with its support frame on V6 engines

12.1b . . . and element on 4-cylinder

engines with single-point fuel injection

12.1a Removing the air cleaner cover . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

cover or rubber protector, make sure that it’s not torn or damaged. It should completely cover the terminal. Look for any corroded or loose connections, cracks in the case or cover, or loose hold-down clamps. Check the entire length of each lead for cracks and frayed conductors. 6 If corrosion, which looks like white, fluffy deposits is evident, particularly around the terminals, the battery should be removed for cleaning as described in Chapter 5, Section 2. 7 Clean the lead clamps thoroughly, using a soft wire brush or a terminal cleaner, with a solution of warm water and baking soda. Wash the terminals and the top of the battery case with the same solution, but make sure that the solution doesn’t get into the battery. When cleaning the leads, terminals and battery top, wear safety goggles and rubber gloves, to prevent any solution from coming in contact with your eyes or hands. Wear old clothes too - even when diluted, acid splashed onto clothes will burn holes in them. Wash all cleaned areas with plain water. 8 Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition and the hold-down clamp nuts are tight. If the battery is removed from the tray, make sure no parts remain in the bottom of the tray when the battery is refitted. When refitting the hold-down clamp nuts, do not overtighten them. 9 Information on jump starting can be found at the front of this manual. For more detailed battery checking procedures, refer to the Haynes “Automobile Electrical and Electronic Systems Manual”.

Cleaning

10 Corrosion on the hold-down components, battery case and surrounding areas can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with plain water. 11 Any metal parts of the vehicle damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zincbased primer, then painted.

Charging

Warning: When batteries are being charged, hydrogen gas, which is very explosive and

flammable, is produced. Do not smoke, or allow open flames, near a charging or a recently-charged battery. Wear eye protection when near the battery during charging. Also, make sure the charger is unplugged before connecting or disconnecting the battery from the charger.

12 Slow-rate charging is the best way to restore a battery that’s discharged to the point where it will not start the engine. It’s also a good way to maintain the battery charge in a vehicle that’s only driven a few miles between starts. Maintaining the battery charge is particularly important in winter, when the battery must work harder to start the engine, and electrical accessories that drain the battery are in greater use.

13 It’s best to use a one- or two-amp battery charger (sometimes called a “trickle” charger). They are the safest, and put the least strain on the battery. They are also the least expensive. For a faster charge, you can use a higheramperage charger, but don’t use one rated more than 1/10th the amp/hour rating of the battery (ie no more than 5 amps, typically). Rapid boost charges that claim to restore the power of the battery in one to two hours are hardest on the battery, and can damage batteries not in good condition. This type of charging should only be used in emergency situations. 14 The average time necessary to charge a battery should be listed in the instructions that come with the charger. As a general rule, a trickle charger will charge a battery in 12 to 16 hours.

15 Seat belt check

1 Check the seat belts for satisfactory operation and condition. Inspect the webbing for fraying and cuts. Check that they retract smoothly and without binding into their reels. 2 Check that the seat belt mounting bolts are tight, and if necessary tighten them to the specified torque wrench setting (see Chapter 11).

16 Auxiliary drivebelts check

and renewal

General

1 The number and type of auxiliary drivebelts depends on the engine, year of manufacture, and whether or not the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning. The belt will be either a V-belt or a flat, multi-ribbed (or “polyvee”) type. All the drivebelts are located on the right-hand end of the engine and are driven from the crankshaft pulley. Early “M” series 4-cylinder engines have an additional drivebelt for the power steering pump, which is driven from a pulley on the camshaft.

2 The good condition and proper tension of the auxiliary drivebelts is critical to the operation of the engine. Because of their composition and the high stresses to which they are subjected, drivebelts stretch and deteriorate as they get older. They must, therefore, be regularly inspected.

Check

3 With the engine switched off, open and support the bonnet, then locate the auxiliary drivebelts fitted to your car (Be very careful, and wear protective gloves to minimise the risk of burning your hands on hot components, if the engine has recently been running). For improved access, jack up the front of the vehicle, support it securely on axle stands, remove the roadwheel, then remove the cover from inside the wheelarch. 4 Using an inspection light or a small electric torch, and rotating the engine when necessary with a spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt, check the whole length of the drivebelt for cracks, separation of the rubber, and torn or worn ribs. Also check for fraying and glazing, which gives the drivebelt a shiny appearance. Both sides of the drivebelt should be inspected, and you will have to twist the drivebelt to check the underside. Use your fingers to feel the drivebelt where you can’t see it. If you are in any doubt as to the condition of the drivebelt, renew it.

Drivebelt tension - 4-cylinder engines

Alternator drivebelt (early “M” series engines)

5 Check that it is just possible to twist the

belt by hand through 90º at a point midway between the two pulleys. If adjustment is necessary, proceed as follows. 6 Slacken the two alternator adjustment bracket bolts and the alternator pivot bolt and nut (see illustrations). 7 Lever the alternator away from the engine until the drivebelt is moderately tight. The alternator must only be levered with care at the drive end bracket. Hold the alternator in this position and tighten the adjustment bracket bolts and pivot nut and bolt.

1•16 Every 12 000 miles

16.6b . . . and pivot bolt retaining nut on early “M” series 4-cylinder engines

16.6a Alternator adjustment bracket bolts (arrowed) . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Power steering pump drivebelt (early “M” series engines)

8 Refer to Chapter 4, Part A or B, and remove

the air cleaner components as necessary, for access. 9 Undo the retaining screw and remove the cover over the camshaft pulley (see illustration). 10 Undo the bolts securing the coolant bypass pipe to the cylinder head and to the main coolant pipe, and move the bypass pipe aside as necessary for access. 11 To check and adjust the belt tension accurately it will be necessary to obtain a socket to fit the power steering pump pulley retaining nut, a socket bar of at least 12 inches in length, and a spring balance capable of recording a minimum of 25 lbs. Make a paint mark or similar on the socket bar, 12 inches up from the centre of the square drive end. 12 Slacken the centre retaining nut on the belt tensioner wheel, then turn the tension adjuster bolt clockwise until the belt is slack. Retighten the tensioner wheel retaining nut to

5.0 Nm. 13 Fit the socket and bar to the pump pulley retaining nut, and position it so that the socket bar is vertical. 14 Attach the spring balance to the socket bar at the point marked 12 inches up from the square drive end. 15 Turn the adjuster bolt anti-clockwise until it takes a pull of 25 lbs to make the pump pulley slip. This procedure is shown (see illustration 16.9), but using the Rover special tool. The socket and bar are a substitute for this tool. 16 Remove the socket, bar and spring balance, then turn the crankshaft until the camshaft pulley has turned through 180º. 17 Check the belt tension again, and readjust if necessary. 18 Now turn the tension adjuster bolt anticlockwise two complete turns. 19 Tighten the tensioner wheel retaining nut fully to the specified torque. 20 Refit the coolant pipe retaining bolts, and the cover over the camshaft pulley.

21 Refit the air cleaner components.

Alternator/power steering pump/air conditioning compressor drivebelt (later “M” series engines)

22 Accurate tensioning of the drivebelt on

cars with this arrangement can only be achieved with the Rover belt tensioning tool, and ideally this operation should be carried out by a Rover dealer. However, if a new belt has been fitted, or if the existing tension is extremely slack, a rough approximation as a temporary measure can be achieved using the following procedure. 23 To adjust the belt tension, slacken the idler pulley retaining nut, then turn the adjuster bolt clockwise to increase the tension or anticlockwise to decrease it, until it is just possible to twist the belt by hand through 90º at a point midway between the crankshaft and power steering pump pulleys (see illustration).

Every 12 000 miles 1•17

16.23 Drivebelt adjustment on later “M” series 4-cylinder engines

1 Drivebelt 2 Checking gauge - Rover

special tool

3 Idler pulley retaining nut 4 Adjuster bolt

16.9 Power steering pump drivebelt adjustment on early “M” series 4-cylinder engines

1 Camshaft pulley cover

retaining screw 2 Camshaft pulley cover 3 Coolant pipe retaining bolt

4 Coolant pipe 5 Drivebelt 6 Belt tensioner wheel centre

retaining nut

7 Tension adjuster bolt 8 Rover special tool for

checking tension

9 Spring balance

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

24 When the tension is correct, tighten the idler pulley retaining nut to the specified torque and lower the car to the ground.

Alternator/power steering pump/air conditioning compressor drivebelt (“T” series engines)

25 “T” series engines are fitted with an

automatic drivebelt tensioner incorporating a wear indicator to show when the belt has stretched too far for the tensioner to maintain correct adjustment (see illustration). 26 To check the tension, observe the wear indicator and make sure that the pointer has not reached the right-hand end of the slot. If it hasn’t, all is well, and no further action is necessary; if it has, renew the belt.

Drivebelt tension - V6 engines

Alternator drivebelt

27 Undo the three bolts and one nut securing

the power steering pump and alternator pulley

covers to the top of the engine. Move the pipes and cables clear and lift off the covers

(see illustration). 28 The belt tension is correct when it is just

possible to deflect the belt by 18 to 22 mm at the mid-point of its run, under moderate finger pressure. If adjustment is required, proceed as follows. 29 Slacken the alternator side pivot bolt and lower mounting nut, then turn the adjusting bolt on the side of the unit as necessary to achieve the correct tension (see

illustrations). 30 Tighten the pivot and mounting nuts and

bolts and refit the covers to the top of the engine.

Power steering pump drivebelt

31 Undo the three bolts and one nut securing

the power steering pump and alternator pulley covers to the top of the engine. Move the pipes and cables clear and lift off the covers.

32 The belt tension is correct when it is just possible to deflect the belt by 18 to 22 mm at the mid-point of its run, under moderate finger pressure. If adjustment is required, proceed as follows. 33 Slacken the pump adjusting nut and mounting bolt, then engage the end of a 1/2 inch square drive socket bar in the hole at the rear of the large lug on top of the pump (see illustrations). Using the bar, move the pump as necessary, until the belt tension is correct, then tighten the adjusting and mounting nut and bolt.

Air conditioning compressor drivebelt

34 The belt tension is correct when it is just

possible to deflect the belt by 7 to 9 mm at a point mid-way between the crankshaft pulley and the tensioner jockey wheel, under

1•18 Every 12 000 miles

16.33b . . . then engage the end of a

socket bar in the lug on top of the pump to

adjust the belt

16.29a . . . slacken the alternator side pivot bolt (arrowed) . . .

16.33a Slacken the V6 engine power steering pump adjusting nut . . .

16.29b . . . and lower mounting nut

(arrowed), then turn the adjusting bolt to

achieve the correct tension

16.27 On V6 engines, remove the pulley covers over the top of the engine . . .

16.25 Drivebelt adjustment details on “T” series engines

1 Wheelarch cover retaining

bolts

2 Wheelarch cover 3 Tensioner wear indicator

4 Releasing the tensioner for

belt renewal

5 Drivebelt

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

moderate finger pressure. If adjustment is required, proceed as follows. 35 Slacken the bolt in the centre of the tensioner jockey wheel, then turn the adjusting bolt, behind the adjuster, to obtain the correct belt tension (see illustration). When the adjustment is correct, tighten the jockey wheel bolt.

Renewal - 4-cylinder engines

36 Open the bonnet, jack up the front of the vehicle (where applicable) and support it securely on an axle stands, remove the roadwheel, then remove the cover from inside the wheelarch. 37 The routing of the drivebelt around the pulleys is dependant on the drivebelt type and whether or not air conditioning is fitted. Before removing the drivebelt, it’s a good idea to sketch the belt run around the pulleys; this will save a lot of frustration when it comes to refitting. 38 If the existing drivebelt is to be refitted, mark it, or note the maker’s markings on its flat surface, so that it can be installed in the same way. 39 To renew the drivebelt, slacken the belt tension fully as described above according to type, noting that where an automatic tensioner is fitted, it is only necessary to turn the tensioner centre bolt clockwise, using a spanner, to release the belt tension. Slip the belt off the pulleys then fit the new belt ensuring that it is routed correctly. With the belt in position, adjust the tension as previously described, or simply release the tensioner bolt. 40 Using a spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft through at least two full turns clockwise to settle the drivebelt on the pulleys, then check that the drivebelt is properly installed. 41 Refit the cover and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground.

Renewal - V6 engines

42 Open the bonnet, jack up the front of the vehicle (where applicable) and support it securely on an axle stands, remove the roadwheel, then remove the cover from inside the wheelarch.

43 If the existing drivebelt is to be refitted, mark it, or note the maker’s markings on its flat surface, so that it can be installed the same way. 44 Depending on which drivebelt is to be renewed, it will probably be necessary to remove one (or both) of the other drivebelts first, to gain access. Note also, that if the power steering pump drivebelt is to be renewed, it will be necessary to support the engine under the sump on a jack (with interposed block of wood) and undo the two bolts on the right-hand engine mounting, to allow the belt to pass through. 45 To renew the drivebelt, slacken the belt tension fully as described above according to type. Slip the belt off the pulleys then fit the new belt. With the belt in position, refit the engine mounting bolts (where applicable) and adjust the tension as previously described. 46 Using a spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft through at least two full turns clockwise to settle the drivebelt on the pulleys, then check that the drivebelt is properly installed. 47 Refit the cover and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground.

17 Engine compartment wiring

check

1 With the vehicle parked on level ground, apply the handbrake firmly and open the bonnet. Using an inspection light or a small electric torch, check all visible wiring within and beneath the engine compartment. 2 What you are looking for is wiring that is obviously damaged by chafing against sharp edges, or against moving suspension/ transmission components and/or the auxiliary drivebelts, by being trapped or crushed between carelessly-refitted components, or melted by being forced into contact with the hot engine castings, coolant pipes, etc. In almost all cases, damage of this sort is caused in the first instance by incorrect routing on reassembly after previous work has been carried out. 3 Depending on the extent of the problem, damaged wiring may sometimes be repaired by rejoining the break or splicing-in a new length of wire, using solder to ensure a good connection, and remaking the insulation with adhesive insulating tape or heat-shrink tubing, as appropriate. If the damage is extensive, given the implications for the vehicle’s future reliability, the best long-term answer may well be to renew that entire section of the loom, however expensive this may appear. 4 When the actual damage has been repaired, ensure that the wiring loom is rerouted correctly, so that it is clear of other components, and not stretched or kinked, and is secured out of harm’s way using the plastic clips, guides and ties provided. 5 Check all electrical connectors, ensuring

that they are clean, securely fastened, and that each is locked by its plastic tabs or wire clip, as appropriate. If any connector shows external signs of corrosion (accumulations of white or green deposits, or streaks of “rust”), or if any is thought to be dirty, it must be unplugged and cleaned using electrical contact cleaner. If the connector pins are severely corroded, the connector must be renewed; note that this may mean the renewal of that entire section of the loom - see your local Rover dealer for details. 6 If the cleaner completely removes the corrosion to leave the connector in a satisfactory condition, it would be wise to pack the connector with a material which will exclude dirt and moisture, preventing the corrosion from occurring again. 7 Check the condition of the battery connections - remake the connections or renew the leads if a fault is found. Use the same techniques to ensure that all earth points in the engine compartment provide good electrical contact through clean, metalto-metal joints, and that all are securely fastened. 8 Refer to Section 11 for details of spark plug (HT) lead checks.

18 Air conditioning system

check

Warning: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. Do not loosen any fittings or remove

any components until after the system has been discharged. Air conditioning refrigerant must be properly discharged into an approved type of container, at a dealer service department or an automotive air conditioning repair facility capable of handling the refrigerant safely. Always wear eye protection when disconnecting air conditioning system fittings.

1 The following maintenance checks should be performed on a regular basis, to ensure that the air conditioner continues to operate at peak efficiency:

(a) Check the auxiliary drivebelt. If it’s worn

or deteriorated, renew it (see Section 16).

(b) Check the system hoses. Look for cracks,

bubbles, hard spots and deterioration. Inspect the hoses and all fittings for oil bubbles and seepage. If there’s any evidence of wear, damage or leaks, renew the hose(s).

insects and other debris. Use a “fin comb” or compressed air to clean the condenser.

Warning: Wear eye protection

when using compressed air!

(d) Check that the drain tube from the front

of the evaporator is clear - note that it is normal to have clear fluid (water) dripping

Every 12 000 miles 1•19

16.35 Air conditioning compressor

drivebelt tensioner jockey wheel bolt (A),

and adjusting bolt (B) on V6 engines

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

from this while the system is in operation, to the extent that quite a large puddle can be left under the vehicle when it is parked.

2 It’s a good idea to operate the system for about 30 minutes at least once a month, particularly during the winter. Long term nonuse can cause hardening, and subsequent failure, of the seals. 3 Because of the complexity of the air conditioning system and the special equipment necessary to service it, in-depth fault diagnosis and repairs are not included in this manual. For more complete information on the air conditioning system, refer to the Haynes “Automotive Heating and Air Conditioning Manual”. 4 The most common cause of poor cooling is simply a low system refrigerant charge. If a noticeable drop in cool air output occurs, the following quick check will help you determine if the refrigerant level is low. 5 Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature. 6 Place the air conditioning temperature selector at the coldest setting, and put the blower at the highest setting. Open the doors

- to make sure the air conditioning system doesn’t cycle off as soon as it cools the passenger compartment. 7 With the compressor engaged - the clutch will make an audible click, and the centre of the clutch will rotate - feel the inlet and outlet pipes at the compressor. One side should be cold, and one hot. If there’s no perceptible difference between the two pipes, there’s something wrong with the compressor or the system. It might be a low charge - it might be something else. Take the vehicle to a dealer service department or an automotive air conditioning specialist.

19 Engine base idle speed and

CO content check

Refer to the appropriate Parts of Chapter 4.

20 Manual transmission oil level

check

1 The manual transmission does not have a dipstick. To check the oil level, raise the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands, making sure that the vehicle is level. On the left-hand side of the transmission casing, to the rear of the constant velocity joint, you will see the filler/level plug. Wipe around the plug with a rag, then unscrew and remove it. If the level is correct, the oil should be up to the lower edge of the hole. 2 If the transmission needs more lubricant (if the oil level is not up to the hole), use a syringe, or a plastic bottle and tube, to add more (see illustration). Stop filling the transmission when the lubricant begins to run

out of the hole. Make sure that you refer to “Lubricants, fluids and capacities” at the beginning of this Chapter for the correct grade of lubricant to use, according to transmission type. 3 Refit the filler/level plug, and tighten it to the specified torque wrench setting. Drive the vehicle a short distance, then check for leaks. 4 A need for regular topping-up can only be due to a leak, which should be found and rectified without delay.

21 Steering, suspension and

roadwheel check

Front suspension and steering check

1 Apply the handbrake, then raise the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. 2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steering gear gaiters for splits, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of these components will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 Check the power-assisted steering fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steering gear. 4 Check for signs of fluid leakage around the shock absorber body, or from the rubber boot around the piston rod (where fitted). Should any fluid be noticed, the shock absorber is defective internally, and renewal is necessary. 5 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it. Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation is necessary to determine the source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free play is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the suspension joints or mountings.

6 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track rod balljoints. If the outer track rod end balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be obvious. If the inner joint is suspect, it can be felt by placing a hand over the rackand-pinion rubber gaiter, and gripping the track rod. If the wheel is now rocked, movement will be felt at the inner joint if wear has taken place. 7 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber. 8 With the vehicle standing on its wheels, have an assistant turn the steering wheel back-and-forth, about an eighth of a turn each way. There should be very little, if any, lost movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously described, but in addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and also check the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself. 9 The efficiency of the shock absorber may be checked by bouncing the car at each front corner. Generally speaking, the body will return to its normal position and stop after being depressed. If it rises and returns on a rebound, the shock absorber is probably suspect. Examine also the shock absorber upper and lower mountings for any signs of wear.

Rear suspension check

10 Chock the front wheels, then raise the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. 11 Check the rear hub bearings for wear, using the method described for the front hub bearings (paragraph 4). 12 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Check the condition of the shock absorbers as described previously.

Roadwheel check and balancing

13 Periodically remove the roadwheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by “kerbing” whilst parking, and similarly, steel wheels may become dented or buckled. Renewal of the wheel is very often the only course of remedial action possible. 14 The balance of each wheel and tyre

1•20 Every 12 000 miles

20.2 Topping up the manual transmission oil

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

assembly should be maintained, not only to avoid excessive tyre wear, but also to avoid wear in the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration through the vehicle’s bodyshell, although in many cases it is particularly noticeable through the steering wheel. Conversely, it should be noted that wear or damage in suspension or steering components may cause excessive tyre wear. Out-of-round or out-of-true tyres, damaged wheels and wheel bearing wear/ maladjustment also fall into this category. Balancing will not usually cure vibration caused by such wear. 15 Wheel balancing may be carried out with the wheel either on or off the vehicle. If balanced on the vehicle, ensure that the wheel-to-hub relationship is marked in some way prior to subsequent wheel removal, so that it may be refitted in its original position.

22 Driveshaft rubber gaiter and

CV joint check

1 The driveshaft rubber gaiters are very important, because they prevent dirt, water and foreign material from entering and damaging the constant velocity (CV) joints. External contamination can cause the gaiter material to deteriorate prematurely, so it’s a good idea to wash the gaiters with soap and water occasionally. 2 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on axle stands, turn the steering onto full-lock, then slowly rotate each front wheel in turn. Inspect the condition of the outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs of cracking, splits, or deterioration of the rubber, which may allow the escape of grease, and lead to the ingress of water and grit into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the inner CV joints. If any damage or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be renewed as described in Chapter 8. 3 At the same time, check the general condition of the outer CV joints themselves,

by first holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheels. Repeat this check on the inner joints, by holding the inner joint yoke and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. 4 Any appreciable movement in the CV joint indicates wear in the joint, wear in the driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut.

23 Exhaust system check

1 With the engine cold (at least three hours after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system, from its starting point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe. Ideally, this should be done on a hoist, where unrestricted access is available; if a hoist is not available, raise and support the vehicle on axle stands. 2 Check the pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion, or damage. Make sure that all brackets and rubber mountings are in good condition, and tight; if any of the mountings are to be renewed, ensure that the replacements are of the correct type (see illustration). Leakage at any of the joints or in other parts of the system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak. Note: Exhaust sealants

should not be used on any part of the exhaust system upstream of the catalytic converter even if the sealant does not contain additives harmful to the converter, pieces of it may break off and foul the element, causing local overheating.

3 At the same time, inspect the underside of the body for holes, corrosion, open seams, etc. which may allow exhaust gases to enter the passenger compartment. Seal all body openings with silicone or body putty. 4 Rattles and other noises can often be traced to the exhaust system, especially the rubber mountings. Try to move the system, silencer(s) and catalytic converter. If any components can touch the body or suspension parts, secure the exhaust system with new mountings.

24 Underbody and fuel/brake

line check

1 With the vehicle raised and supported on axle stands or over an inspection pit, thoroughly inspect the underbody and wheelarches for signs of damage and corrosion. In particular, examine the bottom of the side sills, and any concealed areas where mud can collect. Where corrosion and rust is evident, press and tap firmly on the panel with a screwdriver, and check for any serious corrosion which would necessitate repairs. If the panel is not seriously corroded, clean away the rust, and apply a new coating of

underseal. Refer to Chapter 11 for more details of body repairs. 2 At the same time, inspect the PVC-coated lower body panels for stone damage and general condition. 3 Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on the underbody for damage, rust, corrosion and leakage. Also make sure that they are correctly supported in their clips. Where applicable, check the PVC coating on the lines for damage.

25 Clutch operation and

hydraulic hose condition check

1 Check the clutch pedal moves smoothly and easily through its travel, and that the clutch functions correctly, with no trace of slip or drag. 2 Remove the closing panels under the facia for access to the pedal and apply a few drops of light oil to the pedal pivot. Refit the panel. 3 From within the engine compartment check the condition of the fluid lines and hoses as described in Section 8. Now have a look under the front of the car at the clutch slave cylinder. Check for signs of fluid leaks around the rubber boot and check the security of the linkage. Apply a few drops of oil to the pushrod clevis pin and linkage.

26 Brake check

Note: For detailed photographs of the brake system, refer to Chapter 9.

1 The work described in this Section should be carried out at the specified intervals, or whenever a defect is suspected in the braking system. Any of the following symptoms could indicate a potential brake system defect:

(a) The vehicle pulls to one side when the

brake pedal is depressed.

(b) The brakes make scraping or dragging

noises when applied. (c) Brake pedal travel is excessive. (d) The brake fluid requires repeated topping-

up.

2 A thorough inspection should be made to confirm the thickness of the pad linings, as follows. 3 Jack up the front or rear of the vehicle in turn, and support it on axle stands. 4 For better access to the brake calipers, remove the wheels. 5 Look through the inspection window in the caliper, and check that the thickness of the friction lining material on each of the pads is not less than the recommended minimum thickness given in the Specifications. Note:

Bear in mind that the lining material is normally bonded to a metal backing plate.

6 If it is difficult to determine the exact thickness of the pad linings, or if you are at all

Every 12 000 miles 1•21

23.2 Typical exhaust system rubber mountings and brackets

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

concerned about the condition of the pads, then remove them from the calipers for further inspection (refer to Chapter 9). 7 Check the remaining brake caliper(s) in the same way. 8 If any one of the brake pads has worn down to, or below, the specified limit, all four pads at that end of the car must be renewed as a set (ie all the front pads or all the rear pads). 9 Measure the thickness of the discs with a micrometer, if available, to make sure that they still have service life remaining. If any disc is thinner than the specified minimum thickness, renew it (refer to Chapter 9). In any case, check the general condition of the discs. Look for excessive scoring and discolouration caused by overheating. If these conditions exist, remove the relevant disc and have it resurfaced or renewed (refer to Chapter 9). 10 Before refitting the wheels, check all brake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). In particular, check the flexible hoses in the vicinity of the calipers, where they are subjected to most movement. Bend them between the fingers (but do not actually bend them double, or the casing may be damaged) and check that this does not reveal previously-hidden cracks, cuts or splits. On completion, apply the handbrake and check that the rear wheels are locked. The handbrake does not normally require periodic adjustment but if its travel seems excessive, refer to Chapter 9.

27 Door, boot, tailgate and

bonnet check and lubrication

1 Check that the doors, bonnet and tailgate/boot lid close securely. Check that the bonnet safety catch operates correctly. Check the operation of the door check straps. 2 Lubricate the hinges, door check straps, the striker plates and the bonnet catch sparingly with a little oil or grease.

28 Bodywork, paint and

exterior trim check

1 The best time to carry out this check is after the car has been washed so that any surface blemish or scratch will be clearly evident and not hidden by a film of dirt. 2 Starting at one front corner check the paintwork all around the car, looking for minor scratches or more serious dents. Check all the trim and make sure that it is securely attached over its entire length. 3 Check the security of all door locks, door mirrors, badges, bumpers radiator grille and wheel trim. Anything found loose, or in need of further attention should be done with reference to the relevant Chapters of this manual.

4 Rectify any problems noticed with the paintwork or body panels as described in Chapter 11.

29 Roadwheel nut tightness

check

1 Apply the handbrake and remove the wheel trim. 2 Slacken each wheel nut in turn then, using a torque wrench, tighten it to the specified torque wrench setting. If any of the wheel nuts appear corroded, or are tight to unscrew, jack up and securely support the car at the front or rear as applicable, and remove the relevant wheel. Clean the threads of the wheel studs and apply a high-melting point copper based grease to each stud. It’s a good idea to do this to all the studs at each wheel; if one was corroded, they’re probably all the same. 3 If the nuts were removed, check the torque setting again after lowering the car, then refit the wheel trim.

30 Road test

Check the operation and performance of the braking system

1 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard. 2 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking. 3 Check that the handbrake operates correctly, without excessive movement of the lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary on a slope. 4 With the engine switched off, test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. Depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum, then start the engine. As the engine starts, there should be a noticeable “give” in the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is now depressed again, it should be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no further hissing should be heard, and the pedal should feel considerably harder.

Steering and suspension

5 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road “feel”. 6 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises. 7 Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive sloppiness or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering and driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

8 Check the performance of the engine, transmission and driveshafts. 9 Check that the engine starts correctly, both when cold and when hot. 10 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine and transmission. 11 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when idling, and that there is no hesitation when accelerating. 12 On manual transmission models, check that all gears can be engaged smoothly without noise, and that the gear lever action is not abnormally vague or “notchy”. 13 On automatic transmission models, make sure that the drive seems smooth without jerks or engine speed “flare-ups”. Check that all the gear positions can be selected with the vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they should be referred to a Rover dealer. 14 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from the front of the vehicle as the vehicle is driven slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock. Carry out this check in both directions. If a clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a driveshaft joint, in which case renew the joint.

Clutch

15 Check that the clutch pedal moves smoothly and easily through its full travel, and that the clutch itself functions correctly, with no trace of slip or drag. If the movement is uneven or stiff in places, check the system components with reference to Chapter 6.

Instruments and electrical equipment

16 Check the operation of all instruments and electrical equipment. 17 Make sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment in turn, to check that it functions properly.

31 Automatic transmission fluid

level check

1 The level of the automatic transmission fluid should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and transmission damage. 2 The transmission fluid level should only be checked when the transmission is hot (at its normal operating temperature). If the vehicle has just been driven over 10 miles (15 miles in a cold climate), and the fluid temperature is 160 to 175ºF, the transmission is hot.

4-cylinder engine models

3 Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the handbrake, and start the engine. While the engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and move the selector lever to the “P” (PARK) position. 4 Remove the dipstick from its tube located

1•22 Every 12 000 miles

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

at the front left-hand side of the engine. Note the condition and colour of the fluid on the dipstick. 5 Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a clean rag, and re-insert it into the filler tube until the cap seats. 6 Pull the dipstick out again, and note the fluid level. The level should be between the “MIN” and “MAX” marks, on the side of the dipstick marked “HOT” (see illustration). If the level is on the “MIN” mark, stop the engine, and add the specified automatic transmission fluid through the dipstick tube, using a clean funnel if necessary. It is important not to introduce dirt into the transmission when topping-up. 7 Add the fluid a little at a time, and keep checking the level as previously described until it is correct. The difference between the “MIN” and “MAX” marks on the dipstick is approximately 0.3 litre.

V6 engine models

8 Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the handbrake, and start the engine. While the engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and move the selector lever to the “P” (PARK) position.

9 Switch off the engine and wait one minute. 10 Remove the dipstick from its tube which

is located at the rear left-hand side of the engine. The dipstick is mounted low down, on top of the transmission casing and access is not very good (see illustration). Note the condition and colour of the fluid on the dipstick. 11 Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a clean rag, and re-insert it into the filler tube until the cap seats. 12 Pull the dipstick out again, and note the fluid level. The level should be within the shaded sector on the blade. If the level is below or very near to the bottom of the shaded sector, add the specified automatic

transmission fluid through the dipstick tube, using a clean funnel (see illustration). It is important not to introduce dirt into the transmission when topping-up. 13 Add the fluid a little at a time, and keep checking the level as previously described until it is correct. The difference between the upper and lower part of the shaded sector is approximately 0.9 litre.

All models

14 The need for regular topping-up of the transmission fluid indicates a leak, which should be found and rectified without delay. 15 The condition of the fluid should also be checked along with the level. If the fluid at the end of the dipstick is black or a dark reddishbrown colour, or if it has a burned smell, the fluid should be changed. If you are in doubt about the condition of the fluid, purchase some new fluid, and compare the two for colour and smell.

Every 24 000 miles 1•23

31.12 Add the specified automatic

transmission fluid through the dipstick

tube, using a clean funnel

31.10 Automatic transmission fluid level

dipstick (1), Lower (2) and upper (3) shaded

sector and dipstick tube (4)

31.6 Automatic transmission fluid level dipstick (1) and level markings on

4-cylinder engine models

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years, whichever occurs first

32 Timing belt condition and

tension check

1 The manufacturers have increased the service interval for checking the timing belt condition and tension on certain engines, due to the introduction of automatic tensioners and improvements in timing belt construction and manufacture. However, the consequences of timing belt failure can be very expensive in terms of possible engine damage and it is still worthwhile to check the belt at the shorter intervals given in this schedule. The procedures vary considerably according to engine type and model year, and reference should be made to the appropriate Part of Chapter 2 for full information.

33 Positive Crankcase

Ventilation (PCV) system check

1 The function of the crankcase ventilation system is to reduce the emission of unburned hydrocarbons from the crankcase, and to minimise the formation of oil sludge. By ensuring that a depression is created in the crankcase under most operating conditions, particularly at idle, and by positively inducing fresh air into the system, the oil vapours and “blow-by” gases collected in the crankcase are drawn from the crankcase, through the air cleaner or oil separator, into the inlet tract, to be burned by the engine during normal combustion. 2 On four cylinder engines, the main

components of the system are an oil separator, diverter valve and associated hoses. Checking of the system consists of a simple visual check of the component hoses and their connections. 3 On V6 engines the crankcase ventilation system main components are a PCV valve, located in the breathing chamber of the front camshaft cover, and the hoses that connect to the internal channels in the inlet manifold. As with 4-cylinder engines, checking is limited to merely a visual hose condition check. Accurate checking of the PCV valve should be entrusted to a dealer. 4 Check that all components of the system are securely fastened, correctly routed (with no kinks or sharp bends to restrict flow) and in sound condition; renew any worn or damaged components.

5 If oil leakage is noted, disconnect the various hoses and pipes, and check that all are clear and unblocked. Remove the air cleaner assembly cover, and check that the hose is clear and undamaged. Always ensure that the air cleaner filter element is clean as this is a vital part of the system. If it is not due for renewal but appears dirty, it may be possible to clean it as described in Section 12.

34 Fuel filter renewal

Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so extra precautions must be taken when working on

any part of the fuel system. Do not smoke, or allow open flames or bare light bulbs, near the work area. Also, do not work in a garage if a natural gas-type appliance with a pilot light is present. While performing any work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses, and have a suitable (Class B) fire extinguisher on hand. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water.

1 On all engines, a fuel filter is provided in the fuel pump outlet line and is located on the lefthand side of the engine compartment bulkhead. The filter performs a vital role in keeping dirt and other foreign matter out of the fuel system, and so must be renewed at regular intervals, or whenever you have reason to suspect that it may be clogged. 2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 3 Place absorbent rags around the fuel filter outlet union banjo bolt, then slowly unscrew the bolt itself or, on later models, the small bleed screw in the centre of the bolt, to relieve the system pressure (see illustrations). If a bleed screw was fitted, tighten it once the pressure has been released. 4 On 4-cylinder engines, unscrew the filter inlet and outlet union banjo bolts, and recover the four copper washers. On V6 engines, unscrew the inlet union nut and withdraw the pipe from the filter head (see illustration).

Now unscrew the outlet union banjo bolt and recover the two copper washers. 5 Undo the filter bracket retaining nuts or bolts, and remove the filter (see illustration). 6 Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal, but use new copper washers on the banjo unions.

35 Automatic transmission fluid

renewal

1 The automatic transmission fluid should be changed when the transmission is warm after the vehicle has been driven for two or three miles. 2 Position the vehicle over an inspection pit, on vehicle ramps, or jack it up, but make sure that it is level. 3 Place a large container beneath the transmission and thoroughly clean the area around the drain plug(s). On 4-cylinder engine models, undo the two socket-headed drain plugs - one on the side of the sump pan, and one on the transmission casing (see illustration). On V6 engine models undo the single drain plug on the end of the transmission casing at the front. Allow the fluid to drain into the container.

Warning: Take care to avoid scalding - the transmission fluid will be very hot. Remove the dipstick to speed up the draining operation.

4 When all the fluid has drained (this may take quite some time) clean the drain plug(s) then refit, together with new seals and tighten securely. 5 Lower the vehicle to the ground and apply the handbrake securely. 6 Place a funnel in the dipstick tube and fill the transmission with the specified type of fluid. Only add about half the specified amount before checking the level on the dipstick. 7 On 4-cylinder engine models, slowly add more fluid until the level just shows on the dipstick. Now start the engine with the selector lever in “P” and check the fluid level on the dipstick immediately (don’t wait for the engine to warm up). Add fluid as necessary until the level is up to the “MAX” mark on the “COLD” side of the blade then refit the dipstick. Recheck the level as described in Section 31, with the engine fully warmed-up, at the earliest opportunity. 8 On V6 engine models, slowly add more fluid until the level is within the shaded sector on the dipstick blade. Refit the dipstick, drive the car until it is fully warmed-up, then recheck the level as described in Section 31.

1•24 Every 24 000 miles

35.3 Automatic transmission fluid drain

plug locations on 4-cylinder engine models

1 Sump pan drain plug 2 Transmission casing drain plug 3 Sealing washers

34.5 Undo the filter bracket retaining nuts or bolts, and remove the filter

34.4 On V6 engines, unscrew the inlet

union nut and withdraw the pipe from the

filter head

34.3b Unscrewing the banjo union bolt on

V6 engines

34.3a Fuel filter outlet union banjo bolt (arrowed) on 4-cylinder engines

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

36 Brake fluid renewal

The procedure is similar to that for the bleeding of the hydraulic system as described in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid reservoir should be emptied by syphoning, and allowance should be made for the old fluid to be removed from the circuit when bleeding a section of the circuit.

37 Manual transmission oil

renewal

1 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands making sure that it is level. 2 Place a container beneath the drain plug, which is located below the driveshaft inner constant velocity joint on the same side as the filler plug (see illustration). Undo the plug using a square key, and allow the oil to drain. If a key is not available, the 3/8 inch square drive end of a socket bar will suffice. 3 Refit the plug after draining, using a new sealing washer if necessary, then refill with fresh oil as described in Section 20.

38 Coolant renewal

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin or painted surfaces of the

vehicle. Flush contaminated areas immediately with plenty of water. Don’t store new coolant, or leave old coolant lying around, where it’s accessible to children or pets - they’re attracted by its sweet smell. Ingestion of even a small amount of coolant can be fatal! Wipe up garage-floor and drip-pan spills immediately. Keep antifreeze containers covered, and repair cooling system leaks as soon as they’re noticed.

Warning: Never remove the

expansion tank filler cap when

the engine is running, or has

just been switched off, as the cooling system will be hot, and the consequent escaping steam and scalding coolant could cause serious injury.

Coolant draining

Warning: Wait until the engine is

cold before starting this

procedure.

1 To drain the system, first remove the expansion tank filler cap (see Section 3). Move the heater temperature control lever to the fully hot position. 2 If additional working clearance is required,

raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands. 3 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the undertray from beneath the radiator. 4 Place a container beneath the left-hand side of the radiator. Slacken the hose clip and carefully ease the bottom hose off the radiator outlet. Allow the coolant to drain into the container. 5 Additionally, on V6 engines, slacken the two cylinder block drain plugs, on the front and rear sides of the engine, and drain the cylinder block (see illustration). Use two containers for this operation, or open the drain plugs one at a time.

System flushing

6 With time, the cooling system may gradually lose its efficiency, as the radiator core becomes choked with rust, scale deposits from the water, and other sediment. To minimise this, as well as using only goodquality antifreeze and clean soft water, the system should be flushed as follows whenever any part of it is disturbed, and/or when the coolant is renewed. 7 With the coolant drained, refit the bottom hose and where applicable tighten the drain plugs, then refill the system with fresh water. Refit the expansion tank filler cap, start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature, then stop it and (after allowing it to cool down completely) drain the system again. Repeat as necessary until only clean water can be seen to emerge, then refill finally with the specified coolant mixture. 8 If only clean, soft water and good-quality antifreeze has been used, and the coolant has been renewed at the specified intervals, the above procedure will be sufficient to keep clean the system for a considerable length of time. If, however, the system has been neglected, a more thorough operation will be required, as follows. 9 First drain the coolant, then disconnect the radiator top and bottom hoses. Insert a garden hose into the top hose, and allow water to circulate through the radiator until it runs clean from the bottom outlet. 10 To flush the engine, insert the garden hose into the thermostat water outlet, and allow water to circulate until it runs clear from

the bottom hose. If, after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator should be flushed with a good proprietary cleaning agent. 11 In severe cases of contamination, reverse-flushing of the radiator may be necessary. To do this, remove the radiator (Chapter 3), invert it, and insert the garden hose into the bottom outlet. Continue flushing until clear water runs from the top hose outlet. A similar procedure can be used to flush the heater matrix. 12 The use of chemical cleaners should be necessary only as a last resort. Normally, regular renewal of the coolant will prevent excessive contamination of the system.

Coolant filling

13 With the cooling system drained and flushed, ensure that all disturbed hose unions are correctly secured, and that the radiator drain plug is securely tightened. Refit the radiator undershield if it was removed for access, and lower the vehicle to the ground. 14 Prepare a sufficient quantity of the specified coolant mixture allow for a surplus, so as to have a reserve supply for topping-up. 15 Slacken the cooling system bleed screw which, on early 4-cylinder engines, is located on the hose connecting the main coolant pipe to the water pump at the rear of the engine and, on V6 engines, just below the throttle body (see illustrations). Later (1992 onward) 4-cylinder engines don’t have a bleed screw. 16 Slowly fill the system through the

Every 24 000 miles 1•25

38.15a Cooling system bleed screw

location (arrowed) on early 4-cylinder

engines . . .

38.5 V6 engine cylinder block drain plug (arrowed)

37.2 Manual transmission oil drain plug location (arrowed)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

expansion tank until coolant, free from air bubbles, flows from the bleed screw. Tighten the bleed screw and continue filling until the coolant level reaches the expansion tank “MAX” level line. 17 Start the engine, run it for approximately two minutes, then switch off. 18 Slowly unscrew the pressure cap one complete turn, wait until all the pressure escapes, then remove the cap. Check that the coolant just covers the pipe outlet on the seam of the tank, top up if necessary, then refit the cap.

19 After refilling, always check carefully all components of the system (but especially any unions disturbed during draining and flushing) for signs of coolant leaks. Fresh antifreeze has a searching action, which will rapidly expose any weak points in the system.

20 Note: If, after draining and refilling the system, symptoms of overheating are found which did not occur previously, then the fault is almost certainly due to trapped air at some point in the system, causing an air-lock and restricting the flow of coolant; usually, the air is trapped because the system was refilled too quickly. In some cases, air-locks can be released by tapping or squeezing the various hoses. If the problem persists, stop the engine and allow it to cool down completely, before unscrewing the expansion tank filler cap or disconnecting hoses to bleed out the trapped air.

Antifreeze mixture

21 The cooling system should be filled with a water/ethylene glycol-based antifreeze solution, of a strength which will prevent freezing down to at least -25ºC, or lower if the local climate requires it. Antifreeze also protects against corrosion, and increases the coolant boiling point. 22 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling

system should be completely drained, preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security. As noted earlier, fresh antifreeze will rapidly find any weaknesses in the system. 23 After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and the date installed. Any subsequent topping-up should be made with the same type and concentration of antifreeze. 24 The exact mixture of antifreeze-to-water which you should use depends on the relative weather conditions. On all V6 engines, and 4-cylinder engines equipped with air conditioning, the mixture should contain approximately 50% antifreeze. On 4-cylinder engines without air conditioning, approximately a 33% antifreeze mixture is recommended. Antifreeze concentrations greater than 55% for V6 engines or 60% for 4-cylinder engines are not recommended as the efficiency of the cooling system may be impaired. Consult the mixture ratio chart on the antifreeze container before adding coolant. Hydrometers are available at most automotive accessory shops to test the coolant. Use antifreeze which meets the vehicle manufacturer’s specifications.

1•26 Every 24 000 miles

38.15b . . . and on V6 engines (arrowed)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Every 48 000 miles

39 Timing belt renewal

1 As mentioned in Section 32, the

manufacturers have increased the service interval for checking the timing belt condition and tension on certain engines, and also the renewal interval. On certain engines the renewal interval is every 48 000 miles but, according to the manufacturer’s, the timing

belt on 1990 model year onward V6 engines should last for 96 000 miles. Prudent owners may wish to reduce this interval considerably. 2 Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, or Part B as applicable for renewal procedures

40 Braking system hydraulic

fluid seal check and renewal

Refer to the relevant overhaul procedures in Chapter 9, for the brake calipers and master cylinder.

41 Emissions control

equipment check

1 Details of the emissions control system components are given in Chapter 4 Part E, and checking procedures for the positive

crankcase ventilation system is given in Section 33 of this Chapter. 2 Checking and testing of the other emissions control systems should be entrusted to a Rover dealer.

Every 60 000 miles or 5 years, whichever occurs first

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

General

Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line, double-overhead camshafts Engine codes:

“M” series engines:

Normally aspirated engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . M16 (20 HD) Turbocharged engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . M16 (20 M4G)

“T” series engines:

Normally aspirated engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . T16 (20 T4)

Turbocharged engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . T16 (20 T4) Turbo Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1994 cc Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84.45 mm Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89.0 mm Compression ratio:

Normally aspirated engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0:1

Turbocharged engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5:1 Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end) Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle) Timing belt tensioner spring free length (“T” series engines) . . . . . . . . . 57.5 to 58.5 mm

Cylinder head

Maximum gasket face distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 mm

Camshafts and hydraulic tappets

Camshaft bearing running clearance:

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.060 to 0.094 mm

Used . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm maximum Camshaft endfloat (“T” series engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.06 to 0.25 mm

Lubrication

Engine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Oil pressure:

Idling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 bar

Running . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.8 bar

Auxiliary drivebelts check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1 Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Camshaft covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Camshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Cylinder head, rocker gear and valve assemblies -

cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2C Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1 Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1 Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2C Engine/transmission - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 2C Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . 18

Exhaust manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 17 General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . 2 Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1 Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Timing belt (“M” series) - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . 7 Timing belt (“T” series) - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . 8 Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 3

2A•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Chapter 2 Part A: 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Camshaft cover bolts:

“M” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

“T” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6 Camshaft sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 48 Camshaft housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18 Timing belt tensioner bolt:

“M” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

“T” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22 Timing belt idler pulley bolt (“M” series engines):

Up to 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

1989 onwards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 36 Cylinder head bolts (“M” series engines):

Up to 1989:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33 Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59 Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 60º, or to 108 Nm (80 lbf ft) whichever comes first

1989 onwards:

Cylinder head bolts (“T” series engines):

With MSPS stamped on bolt head:

With KX stamped on bolt head:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33 Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 52

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º Inlet manifold nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18 Exhaust manifold nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33 Crankshaft pulley centre bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63 Crankshaft pulley-to-sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6 Oil pump housing bolts (“M” series engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4 Oil pump housing bolts (“T” series engines):

M6 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

M10 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33 Oil pump cover plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4 Oil pick-up pipe-to-pump screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6 Sump bolts:

“M” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

“T” series engines:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 3 Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Flywheel bolts:

“M” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63

“T” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81 Torque converter driveplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81 Transmission adaptor plate bolts:

“M” series engines:

Bolts below crankshaft centre-line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18 Bolts above crankshaft centre-line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

“T” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33 Rear oil seal carrier bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6 Main bearing cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81 Crankpin (big-end) bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41 Front engine mounting to transmission bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59 Front engine mounting bracket to transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30 Rear engine mounting bracket to transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30 Right-hand engine mounting through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33 Right-hand engine mounting to engine bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44 Right-hand engine mounting bracket to engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18 Engine rear tie-bar to mounting bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 55 Engine rear tie-bar mounting bracket bolts:

M10 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

M12 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63 Engine rear tie-bar through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63 Longitudinal support member to underbody . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33 Engine snubber bracket to transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

2A•2 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

1 General information

How to use this Chapter

1 This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repair procedures possible while the engine is still installed in the car, and includes only the Specifications relevant to those procedures. Similar information concerning the V6 engines will be found in Part B of this Chapter. Since these procedures are based on the assumption that the engine is installed in the car, if the engine has been removed and mounted on a stand, some of the preliminary dismantling steps outlined will not apply. 2 Information concerning engine/transmission removal and refitting, and engine overhaul, can be found in Part C of this Chapter, which also includes the Specifications relevant to those procedures.

Engine description

“M” series engine

3 The M16 engine fitted to Rover 820 models

is a water-cooled, four-cylinder, doubleoverhead camshaft, four-stroke petrol engine, of 1994 cc capacity. The engine was fitted to Rover 820 models from 1986 until approximately October 1991. 4 The combined crankcase and cylinder block is of cast iron construction, and houses the pistons, connecting rods and crankshaft. The solid skirt cast aluminium alloy pistons have two compression rings and an oil control ring, and are retained on the connecting rods by fully floating gudgeon pins. To reduce frictional drag and piston slap, the gudgeon pin is offset to the thrust side of the piston. The forged steel connecting rods are attached to the crankshaft by renewable shell type bigend bearings. The crankshaft is carried in five main bearings, also of the renewable shell type. Crankshaft endfloat is controlled by thrust washers which are located on either side of the centre main bearing. 5 The twin overhead camshafts are located in the cylinder head, and each is retained in position by a housing bolted to the cylinder head upper face. The camshafts are supported by five bearing journals machined directly into the head and housings. Drive to the camshafts is by an internally-toothed rubber timing belt, from a sprocket on the front end of the crankshaft. An idler pulley and adjustable tensioner pulley are fitted to eliminate backlash and prevent slackness of the belt. The distributor rotor arm is attached to the rear of the exhaust camshaft, and on early models, the power steering pump is belt-driven from a sprocket attached to the rear of the inlet camshaft. On later models, the power steering is located at the front of the engine, and is belt-driven from a sprocket on the crankshaft.

6 The M16 engine utilizes four valves per cylinder, mounted at an inclined angle, and running in guides which are pressed into the cylinder head. The valves are of small diameter, to improve breathing efficiency and reduce valve mass. Each valve is opened by a hydraulic tappet, acted upon directly by the lobe of the camshaft, and closed by a single valve spring. 7 Blow-by gases from the crankcase are vented by a positive crankcase ventilation system back into the intake air stream for combustion. The system incorporates an oil separator, to return oil droplets to the sump, and a diverter valve, which channels the vapour to inlets on either side of the throttle valve, depending on manifold depression. 8 The pressed-steel sump is attached to the underside of the crankcase, and acts as a reservoir for the engine oil. The oil pump draws oil through a strainer attached to the pick-up pipe and submerged in the oil. The pump passes the oil along a short passage and into the full-flow filter, which is screwed onto the pump housing. The freshly filtered oil flows from the filter and enters the main cylinder block oil gallery, which feeds the crankshaft main bearings. Oil passes from the main bearings, through drillings in the crankshaft to the big-end bearings. 9 As the crankshaft rotates, oil is squirted from a hole in each connecting rod, to splash the thrust side of the pistons and cylinder bores. 10 A drilling from the main oil gallery feeds the cylinder head gallery, via a restrictor located just below the top face of the cylinder block. The cylinder head contains an oil gallery on each side, with drillings to lubricate each camshaft journal and hydraulic tappet bore. The oil then drains back into the sump via large drillings in the cylinder head and cylinder block. 11 On turbocharged engines, a take-off pipe from the main oil gallery feeds the turbocharger shaft bearings and then returns to the sump via an oil return pipe. 12 A pressure relief valve is incorporated in the oil pump housing, to maintain the oil pressure within specified limits.

“T” series engine

13 The T16 engine fitted to later Rover 820

and Vitesse models is a development of the “M” series unit and is similar in most areas. The engine was fitted to Rover 820 models from approximately October 1991 and is currently still in production. 14 The main differences between the two units is in the following areas. 15 The timing belt only drives the two camshafts; the water pump now being situated externally on the engine, behind the power steering pump, and driven (in conjunction with the power steering pump) by the auxiliary drive belt. The timing belt incorporates an automatic tensioner to maintain correct timing belt tension for virtually the life of the belt.

16 The semi-floating pistons are retained on the connecting rods by interference fit gudgeon pins. 17 The engine mountings have been revised to improve vibration resistance and power unit stability. 18 Other detail modifications have been incorporated, mainly in the area of ancillary component attachments, and these will be covered in greater detail where procedures in this Chapter are likely to be affected.

2 Repair operations possible

with the engine in the vehicle

The following operations can be carried out without having to remove the engine from the car:

(a) Compression pressure - testing. (b) Removal and refitting of the timing belt. (c) Removal and refitting of the camshaft and

tappets.

(d) Removal and refitting of the cylinder

head. (e) Removal and refitting of the sump. (f) Removal and refitting of the big-end

bearings.* (g) Removal and refitting of the piston and

connecting rod assemblies.* (h) Removal and refitting of the oil pump. (i) Removal and refitting of the engine

mountings. (j) Removal and refitting of the flywheel or

driveplate (after first removing the

transmission). * In extreme cases caused by a lack of necessary equipment, repair or renewal of piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and big-end bearings is possible with the engine in the vehicle. However, this practice is not recommended, because of the cleaning and preparation work that must be done to the components involved, and because of the amount of preliminary dismantling work required - these operations are therefore covered in Part C of this Chapter.

3 Compression test -

description and interpretation

1 When engine performance is down, or if misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to the ignition or fuel systems, a compression test can provide diagnostic clues as to the engine’s condition. If the test is performed regularly, it can give warning of trouble before any other symptoms become apparent. 2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature, the oil level must be correct, the battery must be fully charged, and the spark plugs must be removed. The aid of an assistant will also be required.

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•3

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

3 Disable the ignition system by disconnecting the LT wiring connectors from the ignition coil. Refer to Chapter 5 for further information. 4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1 cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester which screws into the plug thread is to be preferred. 5 Arrange for an assistant to hold the accelerator pedal fully depressed to the floor while at the same time cranking the engine over several times on the starter motor. Observe the compression gauge reading. The compression will build up fairly quickly in a healthy engine. Low compression on the first stroke, followed by gradually increasing pressure on successive strokes indicates worn piston rings. A low compression on the first stroke which does not rise on successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked cylinder head could also be the cause). Deposits on the underside of the valve heads can also cause low compression. Record the highest gauge reading obtained, then repeat the procedure for the remaining cylinders. 6 Due to the variety of testers available, and the fluctuation in starter motor speed when cranking the engine, different readings are often obtained when carrying out the compression test. However, the most important factor is that the compression pressures are uniform in all cylinders, and that is what this test is mainly concerned with. 7 Add some engine oil (about three squirts

from a plunger type oil can) to each cylinder through the spark plug holes and repeat the test. 8 If the compression increases after the oil is added it is indicative that the piston rings are definitely worn. If the compression does not increase significantly, the leakage is occurring at the valves or the head gasket. Leakage past the valves may be caused by burned valve seats and/or faces or warped, cracked or bent valves. 9 If two adjacent cylinders have equally low compressions, it is most likely that the head gasket has blown between them. The appearance of coolant in the combustion chambers or crankcase would verify this condition. 10 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower than the other, and the engine has a rough idle, a worn lobe on the camshaft could be the cause. 11 On completion of the checks, refit the spark plugs and reconnect the LT wiring at the ignition coil.

4 Camshaft covers -

removal and refitting

“M” series engines

Removal

1 Detach the breather hose from the rear of

the inlet camshaft cover. 2 On cars with multi-point fuel injection, release the plastic covers then undo the two bolts securing the plenum chamber support brackets to the plenum chamber. 3 Undo the two bolts and lift off the spark plug cover from the centre of the cylinder head. Note that the spark plug HT lead grommet engages with the end of the cover, and on certain models, an accelerator cable support bracket is also retained by the righthand cover bolt. 4 Undo the ten bolts securing each camshaft cover to its respective camshaft housing, and lift off the two covers (see illustrations). 5 Withdraw the baffle plates, taking care not to damage the sealing edges on both sides of the plates (see illustration).

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Renew the

baffle plates if their sealing edges are damaged. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.

“T” series engines

Removal

7 Detach the breather hoses from the side

and rear of the inlet camshaft cover. 8 Undo the two bolts securing the plenum chamber support brackets to the plenum chamber. 9 Undo the four screws and lift off the spark plug cover between the two camshaft covers. 10 Working from the centre outwards slacken then remove the ten bolts (inlet camshaft cover), or 12 bolts (exhaust camshaft cover) and lift off the two covers. 11 Withdraw the baffle plates, taking care not to damage the sealing edges on both sides of the plates.

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Renew

the baffle plates if their sealing edges are damaged. Tighten the cover bolts to the specified torque in the sequence shown (see

illustration).

5 Inlet manifold -

removal and refitting

Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when disconnecting

any part of the fuel system. Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or bare light bulbs in or near the work area. Don’t work in a garage where a natural gas appliance (such as a clothes dryer or water heater) is installed. If you spill petrol on your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have a fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires handy, and know how to use it.

2A•4 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

4.12 Camshaft cover tightening sequence for “T” series engines

4.5 Remove the baffle plates over the camshafts

4.4b . . . and remove the covers

4.4a Undo the camshaft cover retaining bolts . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Single-point fuel injection engines

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead

(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Refer to Chapter 4A, and remove the air cleaner air box. 3 Relieve the fuel system pressure as described in Chapter 4A, Section 5. 4 Release the hose clips and disconnect the two fuel hoses from the fuel pipes (see

illustration). 5 Refer to Chapter 4A, Section 12, and

remove the throttle body. 6 Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the cooling system. 7 Undo the brake servo banjo hose union at the manifold, and recover the two copper washers (see illustration). 8 Slacken the hose clip and disconnect the coolant hose from the right-hand end of the manifold (see illustration). 9 Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the lefthand end of the manifold, after noting their respective positions for reassembly. 10 Slacken the hose clip and disconnect the remaining coolant hose from the manifold. 11 Undo the bolt securing the manifold to the support bracket under the coolant hose outlet. 12 Undo the bolt securing the upper end of the stay bar to the manifold. 13 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands.

14 Undo the manifold stay bar lower retaining bolt and remove the stay (see

illustration). 15 Release the clip and disconnect the breather hose from the oil separator (see illustration). 16 Disconnect the breather hose from the

lower end of the oil separator at the cylinder block, and at the sump outlet. 17 Disconnect the lead at the oil pressure switch and disconnect the pressure transducer lead at the wiring connector. 18 Unscrew the pipe union nut at the oil pressure switch adaptor. 19 Unscrew the bolt securing the oil pressure switch adaptor and oil separator to the cylinder block and remove the adaptor and oil separator. 20 Disconnect the wiring plug at the knock sensor on the cylinder block, and the two leads at the manifold heater temperature sensor under the manifold (see illustration). Move the wiring harness clear of the manifold. 21 Slacken the nine nuts and bolts securing the manifold to the cylinder head. 22 Remove all the bolts followed by the two nuts, then withdraw the manifold off the studs and remove it from the engine. Recover the manifold gasket. 23 Clean the manifold and cylinder head mating faces, and obtain a new gasket if the sealing lips of the original are damaged.

Refitting

24 Refitting is a reversal of removal; tighten

the manifold nuts and bolts in the sequence shown, to the specified torque (see illustration).

Multi-point fuel injection engines

Removal

25 Remove the fuel injectors and fuel rail as

described in Section 12 of either Chapter 4B, for “M” series, or Chapter 4C for “T” series. 26 Release the clip and disconnect the breather hose from the oil separator. 27 Disconnect the breather hose from the lower end of the oil separator and the sump outlet. 28 Disconnect the wires at the oil pressure switch, oil pressure transducer and knock sensor.

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•5

5.8 Disconnect the coolant hose from the right-hand end of the manifold

5.7 Undo the brake servo banjo hose union at the manifold

5.4 Release the hose clips and disconnect the two hoses from the fuel pipes

5.24 Inlet manifold nut and bolt tightening sequence

5.14 Undo the manifold stay bar lower retaining bolt (arrowed)

5.20 Disconnect the leads at the manifold heater temperature sensor

5.15 Disconnect the breather hose (A) from the oil separator (B)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

29 Slacken the nine nuts and bolts securing the manifold to the cylinder head. 30 Remove all the bolts, followed by the two nuts, then withdraw the manifold off the studs and remove it from the engine. Recover the manifold gasket. 31 Clean the manifold and cylinder head mating faces, and obtain a new gasket if the sealing lips of the original are damaged.

Refitting

32 Refitting is a reversal of removal; tighten

the manifold nuts and bolts in the sequence shown, to the specified torque (see

illustration 5.24).

6 Exhaust manifold -

removal and refitting

Note: Never work on or near a hot exhaust system and in particular, the catalytic converter (where fitted).

Single-point fuel injection engines

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead

(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Refer to Chapter 4A, Section 2, and remove the necessary air cleaner components to

provide access to the front and side of the engine. 3 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1.

4 Remove the dipstick from the dipstick tube. 5 Remove the distributor cap and place it to

one side. 6 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands. 7 Undo the four bolts securing the exhaust front pipe flange to the manifold. Separate the flange and recover the gasket. 8 Undo the bolts on both sides securing the two halves of the manifold stove together, and remove the outer half (see illustrations). 9 Undo the bolt securing the heater bypass pipe to the cylinder head and to the main coolant pipe support bracket (see

illustrations). 10 Slacken the clip securing the bypass pipe

connecting hose to the thermostat housing. 11 Undo the five nuts and bolts securing the manifold to the cylinder head, noting that the upper nut also secures the bypass pipe bracket (see illustration). 12 Release the connecting hose from the thermostat housing, and withdraw the bypass pipe from the manifold stud. 13 Remove the manifold from the cylinder head, followed by the inner half of the stove and the manifold gasket. 14 Clean the manifold and cylinder head mating faces, and obtain a new gasket if the original is damaged.

Refitting

15 Refitting is a reversal of removal; tighten

the manifold nuts and bolts starting with the upper two, then the lower centre, then the two outer, to the specified torque. Make sure that the inner half of the stove is in position before fitting the manifold.

Multi-point fuel injection engines

Normally-aspirated engines

16 Refer to the procedures described above

for single-point fuel injection engines, but ignore the instructions to remove the manifold stove, which is not fitted to models with multipoint fuel injection.

Turbocharged engines

17 Refer to Chapter 4B or 4C as applicable

and remove the turbocharger. 18 Refer to the procedures described above for single-point fuel injection engines, but ignore the instructions to remove the manifold stove, which is not fitted to models with multipoint fuel injection.

7 Timing belt (“M” series) -

removal, refitting and adjustment

Note: Accurate adjustment of the timing belt entails the use of a tension checking gauge which is a Rover special tool. An approximate setting can be achieved using the method described in this Section, but the tension should be checked by a Rover dealer on completion. Note: On early “M” series engines the crankshaft pulley and timing belt sprocket are a one-piece assembly secured by a single centre bolt. On later “M” series engines (with a front mounted power steering pump), the pulley and sprocket are two separate components secured by the centre retaining bolt and four additional bolts. As this difference significantly affects the timing belt procedures, identify the type being worked on before proceeding.

2A•6 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

6.11 Undo the manifold nuts and bolts,

noting that the upper nut also secures the

bypass pipe bracket

6.9b . . . and to the main coolant pipe bracket (arrowed)

6.9a Undo the bolt securing the bypass pipe to the cylinder head (arrowed) . . .

6.8b . . . and remove the stove outer half6.8a Undo the bolts securing the two

halves of the manifold stove . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Early “M” series engines

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead

(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Slacken the right-hand front wheel nuts, jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands. Remove the roadwheel. 3 Undo the three bolts and remove the access panel under the wheelarch. 4 Refer to Chapter 1 and remove the auxiliary drivebelt. 5 Position a jack and interposed block of wood under the sump, and just take the weight of the engine. 6 Undo the bolts securing the power steering pipe support brackets, and move the pipes

slightly to gain access to the right-hand engine mounting (see illustration). 7 Undo the engine mounting through-bolt, and recover the special nut. Note that the forked end of the nut plate locates over a stud on the body bracket (see illustration). 8 Undo the two bolts securing the engine mounting to its mounting bracket, and remove the mounting. 9 Raise the engine slightly, then undo the three bolts and lift off the timing belt upper cover (see illustration). 10 Undo the four bolts and remove the timing belt lower cover (see illustration). 11 Using a socket or spanner on the crankshaft pulley, turn the crankshaft in an anti-clockwise direction until the timing

notches on the camshaft sprockets are facing each other and aligned horizontally (see illustrations). The notch on the crankshaft pulley should also be aligned with the edge of the metal bracket which forms the timing belt bottom cover (see illustration). In this position, the crankshaft is at 90º BTDC, with No 1 piston on its compression stroke. 12 If required, the crankshaft can be locked in this position, by inserting a dowel rod or drill through the hole in the transmission adaptor plate, near to the lower edge of the cylinder block on the front-facing side of the engine (see illustration). The dowel or drill will then engage with a corresponding hole in the flywheel. 13 Undo the three bolts and remove the timing belt bottom cover (see illustration).

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•7

7.9 Timing belt upper cover retaining bolts (arrowed)

7.7 Undo the engine right-hand mounting through-bolt

7.6 Undo the bolts securing the power

steering pipe support brackets (arrowed)

7.13 Removing the timing belt bottom cover

7.12 Lock the crankshaft by inserting a dowel rod or drill (1) through the hole in

the transmission adaptor plate

7.11c Crankshaft pulley timing notch

(arrowed) aligned with timing belt bottom

cover

7.11b . . . then check their horizontal alignment with a straight edge

7.11a Turn the crankshaft to align the sprocket timing marks (arrowed) . . .

7.10 Timing belt lower cover retaining bolts (arrowed)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

14 Using an Allen key, undo the timing belt tensioner retaining bolt, and remove the tensioner (see illustration). 15 Slip the belt off the sprockets, and remove it from the engine. 16 If the timing belt is to be re-used, mark its running direction with an arrow in chalk, and store it on its edge while it is off the engine. 17 Check the belt for any sign of cracks or splits, particularly around the roots of the teeth. Renew the belt if wear is obvious, if there are signs of oil contamination, or if the belt has exceeded its service interval (see Chapter 1). Also renew the sprockets if they show any signs of wear or chipping of the teeth. 18 Check the tensioner and sprockets as described in Section 9. 19 Before refitting, check that the crankshaft is still at the 90º BTDC position, and that the timing marks on the two sprockets are still aligned.

Refitting and adjustment

20 Engage the timing belt with the teeth of

the crankshaft sprocket, and then pull the belt vertically upright on its straight, right-hand run. Keep it taut, and engage it over the exhaust camshaft sprocket, then the inlet camshaft sprocket. 21 Check that none of the sprockets have moved, then feed the belt around the idler pulley and engage it with the teeth of the water pump sprocket. 22 Fit the timing belt tensioner and secure with the retaining bolt, tightened finger-tight only at this stage. 23 Engage an Allen key with the hexagonal adjusting hole in the tensioner, and turn the tensioner body until there is moderate tension on the belt (see illustration). Hold the tensioner in this position, and tighten the retaining bolt. 24 Remove the locking pin (if used) from the transmission adaptor plate, and turn the crankshaft one complete turn clockwise, followed by one complete turn anti-clockwise, and re-align the timing marks. 25 Check that it is just possible to deflect the belt, using moderate hand pressure, by

19.0 mm at a point midway between the crankshaft and exhaust camshaft sprockets.

Re-adjust the tension if necessary by slackening the tensioner retaining bolt, and repositioning the tensioner body with the Allen key. Recheck the tension again after turning the crankshaft one turn clockwise, then one turn anti-clockwise. It must be emphasised that this is only an approximate setting, and the tension should be checked by a dealer, using the Rover tension gauge, at the earliest opportunity. 26 Refit the timing belt bottom cover, turn the crankshaft to align the pulley timing mark with the edge of the bottom cover, and make a final check that the camshaft sprocket timing marks are still aligned. 27 Refit the timing belt upper and lower covers. 28 Refit the engine mounting to its bracket, lower the engine and secure the mounting to the body with the through-bolt and special nut. 29 Refer to Chapter 1 and refit the auxiliary drivebelt. 30 Refit the power steering pipe support brackets, the wheelarch access panel, and the roadwheel. 31 Lower the car to the ground, tighten the wheel nuts fully, and reconnect the battery.

Later “M” series engines

Removal

32 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 to

9 above. 33 Undo the four bolts and remove the timing belt centre cover. 34 Using a socket or spanner on the crankshaft pulley, turn the crankshaft in an anticlockwise direction until the notches on the camshaft sprockets are facing each other and aligned horizontally. Insert a dowel rod or drill through the hole in the transmission adaptor plate, near to the lower edge of the cylinder block on the front-facing side of the engine (see illustration 7.12). The dowel or drill will then engage with a corresponding hole in the flywheel. If the dowel won’t engage, turn the crankshaft through 180º and try again. With the dowel rod engaged and the camshaft notches aligned, the crankshaft is at 90º BTDC, with No 1 piston on its compression stroke. Temporarily remove the dowel rod.

35 Refer to Chapter 5, and remove the starter motor. 36 Using a socket and long handle, slacken the crankshaft pulley centre retaining bolt. Lock the flywheel ring gear, through the starter motor aperture, using a large screwdriver or similar tool to prevent the crankshaft rotating as the pulley bolt is undone. This operation will probably have moved the timing marks on the camshafts out of alignment, so re-align them, and fit the crankshaft dowel rod as described previously. 37 Remove the centre retaining bolt from the crankshaft pulley, then unscrew the four additional pulley bolts and remove the pulley. 38 Undo the bolts and remove the timing belt bottom cover. 39 Using an Allen key, undo the timing belt tensioner retaining bolt, and remove the tensioner. 40 Slip the belt off the sprockets, and remove it from the engine. 41 Check the timing belt, sprockets and tensioner as described in paragraphs 16 to

18. 42 Before refitting, check that the crankshaft is still at the 90º BTDC position, and that the timing marks on the two sprockets are still aligned.

Refitting and adjustment

43 Engage the timing belt with the teeth of

46 Refit the timing belt bottom cover. 47 Remove the dowel rod from the

crankshaft. 48 Refit the crankshaft pulley and secure with the centre bolt and four additional bolts, tightened to the specified torque. Hold the crankshaft using the same procedure as for removal to tighten the centre bolt. 49 Engage an Allen key with the hexagonal adjusting hole in the tensioner, and turn the tensioner body until there is moderate tension on the belt. Hold the tensioner in this position, and tighten the retaining bolt. 50 Turn the crankshaft one complete turn clockwise, followed by one complete turn anti-clockwise, and re-align the timing marks. 51 Check that it is just possible to deflect the belt, using moderate hand pressure, by

19.0 mm at a point midway between the crankshaft and exhaust camshaft sprockets. Re-adjust the tension if necessary by slackening the tensioner retaining bolt, and repositioning the tensioner body with the Allen key. Recheck the tension again after turning

2A•8 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

7.23 Tensioner hexagonal adjusting hole (arrowed)

7.14 Removing the timing belt tensioner

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

the crankshaft one turn clockwise, then one turn anti-clockwise. It must be emphasised that this is only an approximate setting, and the tension should be checked by a dealer, using the Rover tension gauge, at the earliest opportunity. 52 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of removal.

8 Timing belt (“T” series) -

removal, refitting and adjustment

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5, Section 1). 2 Slacken the right-hand front wheel nuts, jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands. Remove the roadwheel. 3 Undo the three bolts and remove the access panel under the wheelarch. 4 Refer to Chapter 1 and remove the auxiliary drivebelt. 5 Position a jack and interposed block of wood under the sump, and just take the weight of the engine. 6 Undo the bolts securing the power steering pipe support brackets, and move the pipes slightly to gain access to the right-hand engine mounting. 7 Undo the engine mounting through-bolt, and recover the special nut. Note that the forked end of the nut plate locates over a stud on the body bracket. 8 Undo the two bolts securing the engine mounting to its mounting bracket, and remove the mounting. 9 Raise the engine slightly, then undo the five bolts and lift off the timing belt upper cover

(see illustration). 10 Undo the remaining five bolts and remove

the timing belt centre cover. 11 Using a socket or spanner on the crankshaft pulley, turn the crankshaft in an anti-clockwise direction until the timing notches on the camshaft sprockets are facing each other and aligned horizontally. Insert a dowel rod or drill through the hole in the transmission adaptor plate, near to the lower edge of the cylinder block on the front-facing side of the engine (see illustration 7.12). The dowel or drill will then engage with a corresponding hole in the flywheel. If the dowel won’t engage, turn the crankshaft through 180º and try again. 12 With the dowel rod engaged and the camshaft notches aligned, the crankshaft is at 90º BTDC, with No 1 piston on its compression stroke. Temporarily remove the dowel rod. 13 Refer to Chapter 5, and remove the starter motor. 14 Using a socket and long handle, slacken the crankshaft pulley centre retaining bolt. Lock the flywheel ring gear, through the starter motor aperture, using a large

screwdriver or similar tool to prevent the crankshaft rotating as the pulley bolt is undone. This operation will probably have moved the timing marks on the camshafts out of alignment, so re-align them, and fit the crankshaft dowel rod as described previously. 15 Remove the centre retaining bolt from the crankshaft pulley, then unscrew the four additional pulley bolts and remove the pulley. 16 Undo the three bolts and remove the timing belt bottom cover. 17 Slacken the timing belt tensioner centre bolt, move the tensioner away from the belt as far as it will go, then re-tighten the tensioner bolt. 18 Slip the belt off the sprockets, and remove it from the engine. 19 If the timing belt is to be re-used, mark its running direction with an arrow in chalk, and store it on its edge while it is off the engine. 20 Check the tensioner and sprockets as described in Section 9.

Refitting and adjustment

21 Before refitting the belt, check that the crankshaft is still at the 90º BTDC position (dowel rod engaged) and that the timing marks on the two sprockets are still aligned.

22 Engage the timing belt with the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket, and then pull the belt vertically upright on its straight, right-hand run. Keep it taut, and engage it over the exhaust camshaft sprocket, then the inlet camshaft sprocket. 23 Check that none of the sprockets have moved, then feed the belt around the tensioner.

24 Refit the timing belt bottom cover. 25 Remove the dowel rod from the

crankshaft. 26 Refit the crankshaft pulley and secure with the centre bolt and four additional bolts, tightened to the specified torque. Hold the crankshaft using the same procedure as for removal to tighten the centre bolt. 27 Slacken the timing belt tensioner retaining bolt slightly and allow the tensioner to automatically tension the belt. 28 Using a torque wrench applied to the inlet camshaft sprocket retaining bolt, apply a load of 40 Nm, in an anti-clockwise direction, to take up all the slack in the timing belt. Hold this load, and tighten the tensioner retaining bolt to the specified torque. 29 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of removal.

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•9

8.9 Timing belt components as fitted to “T” series engines

1 Upper cover bolt 2 Upper cover 3 Camshaft sprocket bolt 4 Washer 5 Timing belt 6 Inlet camshaft sprocket 7 Exhaust camshaft sprocket 8 Backplate bolt

9 Upper backplate 10 Lower backplate 11 Spring sleeve 12 Anchorage bolt 13 Tensioner spring 14 Timing belt tensioner 15 Tensioner bolt

16 Crankshaft sprocket 17 Bottom cover 18 Bottom cover bolt 19 Centre cover 20 Crankshaft pulley 21 Pulley-to-sprocket bolts 22 Pulley centre bolt

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

9 Timing belt tensioner and

sprockets - removal,

inspection and refitting

Tensioner

Removal

1 Remove the timing belt as described in

Sections 7, or 8, according to engine type. 2 On the “M” series engine, the tensioner will have been removed together with the timing belt; proceed to paragraph 6. 3 On the “T” series engine, slacken the tensioner retaining bolt and allow the tensioner to move fully under the action of the spring. 4 Unhook the tensioner spring from the anchorage stud. 5 Remove the tensioner retaining bolt, lift off the tensioner and remove the spring.

Inspection

6 Spin the tensioner, and ensure that there is

no roughness or harshness in the bearing. Also check that the endfloat is not excessive and there is no sign of free play. Check the surface of the tensioner for any signs of roughness, nicks or scoring which may damage the timing belt. Renew the tensioner if worn. 7 On “T” series engines, measure the free length of the tensioner spring. If the free length is greater than that specified, renew the spring.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Camshaft sprockets

Removal

9 Remove the timing belt as described in

Sections 7, or 8, according to engine type. 10 Undo the retaining bolt securing each sprocket to its respective camshaft. To prevent the sprockets turning as the bolts are undone, either insert a large screwdriver through one of the sprocket holes and engage it with one of the backplate bolts behind, or make up a holding tool from scrap metal,

which is of a scissor shape, with a bolts at each end to engage with the holes in the sprocket. 11 Withdraw the two sprockets from the camshafts, noting that they are not identical, and should be marked INLET (or IN) and EXHAUST on their front faces to avoid confusion. If no marks are visible, make your own to identify each sprocket (see

illustration).

Inspection

12 Check the condition of the sprockets,

inspecting carefully for any wear grooves, pitting or scoring around the teeth, or any wear ridges which might cause damage to the timing belt. Make sure that the dowels are not worn and are not a loose fit in the camshaft or sprocket holes.

Refitting

13 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure

that the sprockets are fitted to their correct camshafts and tighten the retaining bolt to the specified torque.

Crankshaft sprocket

Removal

14 Remove the timing belt as described in

Sections 7, or 8, according to engine type. 15 Slide the sprocket off the front of the crankshaft (“T” series engines).

Inspection

16 Check the condition of the sprocket,

inspecting carefully for any wear grooves, pitting or scoring around the teeth, or any wear ridges which might cause damage to the timing belt. Examine the Woodruff key and its groove and make sure it is a tight fit.

Refitting

17 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

10 Camshaft oil seals -

renewal

Note: The use of an oil seal extractor which screws into the seal inside circumference is

preferable for this operation. These are available at most accessory shops and can often be hired from tool hire outlets. In the absence of this type of tool, an alternative (but less satisfactory) method of removal is described in the following procedure.

Front oil seals

1 Remove the camshaft sprockets as described in the previous Section. 2 On early “M” series engines undo the retaining bolt using an Allen key, and remove the timing belt idler pulley. Recover the spacer behind the pulley (see illustration). 3 Undo the bolts and remove the backplate from the cylinder head (see illustration). 4 The oil seals are now accessible for removal. Punch or drill two small holes opposite each other in the oil seal. Screw a self-tapping screw into each hole and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal. 5 Check that the housing is clean before fitting the new seal. Lubricate the lips of the seal and the running faces of the camshaft with clean engine oil, then carefully locate the seal over the camshaft and drive it squarely into position using a tube or a socket. Take great care not to turn over the lips of the seal as it is being fitted. An alternative method of fitting is to draw it squarely into position using the sprocket bolt and a distance piece. 6 With the seal fully inserted in its housing, refit the components removed for access then refit the camshaft sprockets as described in the previous Section.

Rear oil seals

Exhaust camshaft oil seal

7 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 and

remove the air cleaner assembly and intake trunking components as necessary for access. 8 Undo the two retaining bolts, withdraw the distributor cap, and place it to one side. 9 Undo the retaining Allen screw, and remove the distributor rotor arm. 10 Undo the two screws and remove the

2A•10 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

10.3 Undo the bolts (arrowed) and remove the backplate

10.2 Remove the timing belt idler pulley and recover the spacer (arrowed)

9.11 The camshaft sprockets are marked INLET (or IN) and EXHAUST on their front

faces (arrowed)

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

distributor adaptor plate from the cylinder head (see illustration). 11 Punch or drill two small holes opposite each other in the seal. Screw a self-tapping screw into each, and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal. 12 Clean the seal location in the cylinder head; polish off any burrs or raised edges, which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place. 13 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil and carefully locate the seal over the camshaft and into the cylinder head. 14 Using a tubular drift which bears on the hard outer edge of the seal, drive the seal fully into the head until it contact the inner land. 15 With the seal fully inserted in its housing, refit the components removed for access then refit the camshaft sprockets as described in the previous Section.

Inlet camshaft oil seal

16 Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 4 and

remove the air cleaner assembly and intake trunking components as necessary for access. 17 On cars with multi-point fuel injection, undo the throttle housing retaining nuts, withdraw the housing from the studs and move it aside. Undo the two bolts and remove the blanking plate or camshaft sensor (turbocharged engines) from the cylinder head

(see illustration). 18 On cars fitted with a rear-mounted power

steering pump, remove the auxiliary drivebelt

as described in Chapter 1, remove the camshaft pulley, then withdraw the spacer behind the pulley. Undo the two nuts and two bolts, and remove the power steering pulley backplate. 19 The seal can now be removed and refitted as described in paragraphs 11 to 15 above.

11 Camshafts and hydraulic

tappets - removal, inspection

and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the timing belt as described in the Sections 7 or 8, according to engine type. 2 Remove the camshaft sprockets as described in Section 9. 3 On early “M” series engines, undo the bolt securing the timing belt idler pulley to the cylinder head using an Allen key (see illustration). Withdraw the pulley, noting that there is a spacing washer fitted between the pulley and cylinder head backplate. 4 Undo the four bolts and remove the cylinder head backplate. 5 Undo the two retaining bolts, withdraw the distributor cap, and place it to one side. 6 Undo the retaining Allen screw, and remove the distributor rotor arm. 7 Undo the two screws and remove the distributor adaptor plate from the cylinder head. 8 On cars fitted with a rear-mounted power

steering pump driven off the inlet camshaft, remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described in Chapter 1, remove the camshaft pulley then withdraw the spacer behind the pulley. Undo the two nuts and two bolts, and remove the power steering pulley backplate. 9 On cars fitted with a front-mounted power steering pump, undo the two bolts and remove the blanking plate or camshaft sensor (turbocharged engines) from the cylinder head. 10 Remove the camshaft covers as described in Section 4. 11 Slacken the ten bolts securing each camshaft housing to the cylinder head, then remove all the bolts except two on each housing at diagonally opposite corners. Make sure that the heads of the bolts left in position are at least 5.0 mm (0.2 in) clear of the housing face. Note that two types of retaining bolts are used to secure the camshaft housings. The three bolts on the inner edge of each housing nearest to the spark plugs are plain bolts, while all the rest are patch bolts. Patch bolts are of the micro-encapsulated type, having their threads fitted with a locking/sealing compound. Obtain new plain and patch bolts prior to reassembly. 12 Using a plastic or hide mallet, carefully tap up each housing to release it from the locating dowels. When the housings are free, remove the remaining bolts and lift off the two housings (see illustration). 13 Carefully lift out the camshafts, and remove the oil seals at each end. Identify each camshaft, inlet or exhaust, with a label after removal. 14 Have a box ready with sixteen internal compartments, marked Inlet 1 to 8, and Exhaust 1 to 8, or mark a sheet of card in a similar way. 15 Lift out each tappet in turn, and place it upside down in its respective position in the box or on the card (see illustration). If the tappets are difficult to remove by hand, use the rubber sucker end of a valve grinding tool to lift them out. 16 Prior to reassembly, obtain new camshaft oil seals, a complete set of camshaft housing retaining bolts, and a tube of Loctite sealant 574.

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•11

11.3 Undo the timing belt idler pulley bolt

10.17 Undo the two bolts (arrowed) and remove the blanking plate

10.10 Undo the two screws (arrowed) and remove the distributor adaptor plate

11.15 Lift out the tappets and keep them in order

11.12 Removing the exhaust camshaft housing

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

Inspection

17 Clean and inspect the various components removed for signs of excessive wear. 18 Examine the camshaft bearing journals and lobes for damage or wear. If evident, a new camshaft must be fitted or one that has been renovated by a company specialising in exchange components. 19 The camshaft bearing bore diameters in the cylinder head should be measured and checked against the tolerances specified. A gauge will be required for this but if not available, check for excessive movement between the camshaft journals and the bearings. Alternatively, the Plastigage method, described in Part C of this Chapter, for main and big-end bearing running clearance checks, can be used. If the bearings are found to be unacceptably worn, either a new camshaft or a new cylinder head is required as the bearings are machined directly in the head. 20 It is seldom that the hydraulic tappets are badly worn in the cylinder head bores but again, if the tappets are scored, or the bores are found to be worn beyond an acceptable level, either the tappet(s) or the complete cylinder head must be renewed. 21 If the contact surface of the cam lobes show signs of depression or grooving, note that they cannot be renovated by grinding as the hardened surface will be removed and the overall length of the tappet(s) will be reduced. The self-adjustment point of the tappet will be exceeded as a result, so that the valve adjustment will be affected and they will then be noisy in operation. Therefore, renewal of the camshaft is the only remedy in this case.

Refitting

22 Remove all traces of sealant from the camshaft housing retaining bolt holes in the

cylinder head, using an M8 x 1.25 mm tap. Alternatively, use one of the old bolts with two file grooves cut into its threads. Also ensure that there is no oil remaining at the bottom of the bolt holes. 23 Thoroughly lubricate the tappet bores in the cylinder head, and refit the tappets in their original positions. 24 Lubricate the camshaft journals and lobes, then place the camshafts in position. Temporarily place the sprockets over the ends of the camshafts, and position the camshafts in the cylinder head so that the sprocket timing marks are horizontal and towards each other. 25 Lubricate the sealing lips of the new oil seals, carefully ease them over the camshaft journals, and position them against the shoulder in the cylinder head (see illustration). 26 Apply a thin bead of Loctite sealant 574 to the camshaft housing-to-cylinder head mating face, then place both housings in position on the cylinder head (see illustration). 27 Fit new housing retaining bolts (3 plain bolts and 7 patch bolts for each housing) and tighten them in the order shown (see illustration). Note the locations of the two types of bolt.

28 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of removal. When the engine is finally started, be prepared for a considerable rattle from the tappets until they completely fill with oil. This may take a few minutes, and will be more pronounced if any of the tappets have been renewed.

12 Cylinder head -

removal and refitting

Warning: Petrol is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when disconnecting

Single-point fuel injection engines

Removal

1 Drain the cooling system as described in

Chapter 1. 2 Remove the air cleaner, air box and intake trunking as described in Chapter 4A. 3 Remove the timing belt as described in Section 7 or 8, according to engine type. 4 Remove the camshaft covers as described in Section 4. 5 Undo the nuts and separate the exhaust front pipe from the manifold flange. Recover the gasket. 6 Slacken the clips and disconnect the radiator top hose, and the expansion tank hose at the thermostat housing. 7 Disconnect the wiring multiplug at the coolant temperature sensor. 8 Undo the brake servo vacuum hose banjo union bolt on the right-hand side of the inlet manifold, and recover the two copper washers. 9 Slacken the clip and disconnect the heater hose at the inlet manifold, behind the brake servo vacuum hose.

2A•12 4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures

11.26 Apply sealant to the camshaft housing mating face

11.25 Fitting the camshaft oil seals

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

11.27 Camshaft housing retaining bolt identification and tightening sequence

A Patch bolt locations B Plain bolt locations

10 Undo the bolt securing the stay bar to the inlet manifold, below the heater hose. 11 Slacken the clips and disconnect the heater bypass hose at the thermostat housing. 12 Slacken the clip and disconnect the heater hose at the other end of the bypass pipe. 13 Undo the bolts securing the bypass pipe to the exhaust manifold, cylinder head and main coolant pipe, release the clips securing the wiring harness, and remove the bypass pipe from the engine (see illustration). 14 Slacken the clip and disconnect the coolant hose at the left-hand end of the inlet manifold. 15 Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the inlet manifold, adjacent to the coolant hose. Mark the location of each hose as it is disconnected. 16 Undo the bolt securing the support bracket to the inlet manifold, below the vacuum hoses. 17 At the rear of the engine below the inlet manifold, release the wire clip and detach the breather hose from the top of the oil separator. Also detach the hose from the crankcase ventilation system diverter valve

(see illustration). 18 Disconnect the two wires to the inlet

manifold heater temperature sensor, on the underside of the manifold, and the single lead to the manifold heater at the wiring connector. 19 Slacken the accelerator cable locknuts, and unscrew the lower locknut off the outer

cable end. Open the throttle at the throttle cam, slip the cable end out of the cam slot, and remove the cable from the support bracket. Release the cable from the camshaft cover support bracket, and place it clear of the engine. 20 On automatic transmission models, disconnect the kickdown cable, using the same procedure as for the accelerator cable. 21 Disconnect the wiring multiplugs at the idle speed stepper motor, the fuel injector, and the throttle potentiometer. Move the wiring harness clear of the cylinder head. 22 Place absorbent rags around the fuel filter outlet union banjo bolt on the left-hand side of the filter, then slowly unscrew the bolt to release the fuel system pressure. Remove the bolt and recover the two copper washers after the pressure has been released. Tape over the filter orifice and banjo union to prevent fuel loss and dirt ingress. 23 Disconnect the fuel return hose at the pipe below the fuel filter. 24 Remove the dipstick from the dipstick tube. 25 On cars fitted with a rear-mounted power steering pump, extract the circlip from the end of the power steering pump drivebelt tension adjuster bolt. Slide the adjuster rearwards, and undo all the accessible bolts securing the adjuster bracket to the cylinder head. Now move the adjuster the other way, and undo the remaining bolts, then remove the adjuster assembly complete. 26 Progressively slacken all the cylinder head

retaining bolts, in the reverse sequence to that shown (see illustration 12.32c). Remove the bolts when all have been slackened. 27 With the help of an assistant, lift the cylinder head, complete with manifolds, off the engine. If the head is stuck, it can be carefully levered up using a large screwdriver between the cylinder block and the protruding cylinder head flanges. Do not insert the screwdriver under the head-to-block mating face. Place the head on blocks on the bench to protect the valves. 28 Remove the cylinder head gasket from the block. 29 Prior to refitting, ensure that the cylinder block and head mating faces are thoroughly clean and dry, with all traces of old gasket removed. Clean the threads of the retaining bolts, and remove any oil, water and thread sealer from the bolt holes.

Refitting

30 Locate a new gasket over the dowels on the cylinder block (see illustration). 31 Check that the crankshaft is still

positioned at the 90º BTDC position, and that the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets are aligned. 32 Lower the cylinder head assembly onto the gasket, and refit the retaining bolts. Working in the sequence shown, tighten the retaining bolts in stages, to the specified torque and angle settings given in the Specifications (see illustrations). 33 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of

4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2A•13

12.30 Locate a new cylinder head gasket over the dowels

12.17 Detach the hose from the diverter valve (arrowed)

12.13 Release the wiring harness clips from the bypass pipe

12.32b . . . then angle-tighten the bolts to the specified angular setting

12.32a Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the specified torque . . .

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake

12.32c Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

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