Rover 800 User Manual

1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
Rover 820, 825 & 827
Service and Repair Manual
J. S. Mead
Models covered
Rover 820, 825, 827 and Sterling models with 4-cylinder and V6 petrol engines, including special/limited editions 1994 cc, 2494 cc & 2675 cc
Does not cover 8-valve carburettor (petrol) engine or Diesel-engined models
(1380-304-11AA3)
© Haynes Publishing 1997 A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted
in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.
ISBN 1 85960 273 8 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil,
Somerset BA22 7JJ Haynes Publishing
Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England
Haynes North America, Inc
861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA
Editions Haynes S.A.
147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 Paris, France
Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB
Box 1504, 751 45 Uppsala, Sweden
ABCDE FGHIJ KLMNO PQRST
1 2 3
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
Contents
LIVING WITH YOUR ROVER
Introduction Page 0•4 Safety First! Page 0•5 General dimensions and weights Page 0•6
Roadside Repairs
Jacking, towing and wheel changing Page 0•7 Jump starting Page 0•9 Identifying leaks Page 0•10
Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system – precaution Page 0•10 Conversion Factors Page 0•11
ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
Routine maintenance and servicing
Routine maintenance Page 1•1 Servicing Specifications Page 1•2 Lubricants, fluids and capacities Page 1•3 Maintenance schedule Page 1•4 Maintenance procedures Page 1•8
Weekly checks Page 1•8 Every 6000 or six months Page 1•11 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months Page 1•13 Every 24 000 miles or 2 years Page 1•23 Every 48 000 miles Page 1•26 Every 60 000 miles or 5 years Page 1•26
REPAIRS & OVERHAUL
Engine and Associated Systems
4-cylinder engine – in-car engine repair procedures Page 2A•1 V6 engine – in-car engine repair procedures Page 2B•1 Engine removal and general engine overhaul procedures Page 2C•1 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Page 3•1 Fuel and exhaust systems – Single-point injection engines Page 4A•1 Fuel and exhaust systems – Lucas multi-point injection engines Page 4B•1 Fuel and exhaust systems – MEMS multi-point injection engines Page 4C•1 Fuel and exhaust systems – Honda PGM-Fi injection engines Page 4D•1 Fuel and exhaust systems – Emissions control systems Page 4E•1 Engine electrical systems Page 5•1
Transmission
Clutch Page 6•1 Manual transmission Page 7A•1 Automatic transmission Page 7B•1 Driveshafts Page 8•1
Brakes
Braking system Page 9•1
Suspension and Steering
Suspension and steering systems Page 10•1
Body Equipment
Bodywork and fittings Page 11•1 Body electrical systems Page 12•1
Wiring Diagrams Page 12•19
REFERENCE
MOT Test Checks Page REF•1 General Repair Procedures Page REF•5 Tools and Working Facilities Page REF•6 Buying Spare Parts and Vehicle Identification Numbers Page REF•9 Fault Finding Page REF•10 Glossary of Technical Terms Page REF•18
Index Page REF•23
Contents
Designed in conjunction with the Honda Motor Company of Japan, the Rover 800 series was launched in the UK in July 1986 as a replacement for the ageing Rover SD1. Initially available in four-door Saloon guise, a Fastback version was added to the range in mid-1988. Minor styling revisions were applied to various models in the intervening years, culminating in a major facelift to all models for the 1992 model year. This saw the introduction of the “second generation” Rover 800 series with significant styling and engineering revisions, together with the launch of the Coupe model later in the same year.
Three different engines are used in the Rover models covered by this manual. 820 models are powered by a 2.0 litre, 4-cylinder, sixteen valve engine with single­point or multi-point fuel injection. The early version of this power unit is based on the proven O-series engine used previously in the Montego and earlier Austin Rover vehicles, but with an all new cylinder head and valve train. For the 1992 model year the T-series version was announced which shared many of the O-series components but with significant revisions in many areas. Both these engines
are available in normally aspirated or turbocharged versions.
825, 827 and Sterling models are powered by a 2.5 or 2.7 litre V6 twenty four valve engine with programmed fuel injection. Both versions of this engine are virtually identical apart from an increase in cylinder bore diameter to provide the larger capacity of the
2.7 litre unit.
On all models, the engine is mounted transversely at the front of the car and drives the front wheels through a five-speed manual, or four speed automatic transmission.
Suspension is independent at the front by double wishbones and coil springs, and at the rear by transverse links and coil springs. Power-assisted steering is standard on all models.
A comprehensive range of electrical and interior features are offered as standard equipment, including electric front windows, central locking and stereo radio cassette player. Anti-lock braking, air conditioning, headlight wash, electric rear windows, driver and passenger airbags and many other features and accessories are also available as optional or standard equipment according to model.
Acknowledgements
Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug, who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.
We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.
Project vehicles
The main project vehicle used in the preparation of this manual, and appearing in many of the photographic sequences was a 1986 Rover 820 Se Saloon. Additional work was carried out and photographed on a 1988 Rover 820 Si Fastback and a 1992 Rover Sterling.
0•4 Introduction
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
Introduction to the Rover 800 Series
Rover 820i Saloon Rover 800 Coupe
Safety First! 0•5
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding
• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.
Crushing
• When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps.
Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening high­torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire
• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive.
• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock
• Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.
• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication
• Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil­soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.
Asbestos
• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid
• This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 4000C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.
The battery
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.
Air bags
• Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment
• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body
to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.
Remember...
DO
• Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.
• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.
• Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.
• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.
• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle – especially the electrical system.
• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.
A few tips
DON’T
• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability – get assistance.
• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.
• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.
• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.
• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.
0•6 General dimensions and weights
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
Dimensions
Overall length:
Pre-1992 model year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4694.0 mm 1992 model year onwards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4882.0 mm
Overall width - including mirrors:
Pre-1992 model year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1946.0 mm 1992 model year onwards:
Saloon and Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1965.0 mm Coupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1900.0 mm
Overall height (unladen):
Pre-1992 model year . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1398.0 mm 1992 model year onwards:
Saloon and Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1363.0 mm
Coupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1400.0 mm Wheelbase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2760.0 mm Front track . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1490.0 mm Rear track . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1450.0 mm Ground clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145.0 mm
Weights
Kerb weight*:
820 Saloon models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1305 to 1405 kg 820 Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1335 to 1435 kg 820 Coupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1420 kg 825 and Sterling Saloon models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1360 to 1400 kg 827 and Sterling Saloon models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1400 to 1470 kg 827 and Sterling Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1410 to 1510 kg 827 Coupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1450 kg
Maximum roof rack load:
Saloon and Fastback models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 kg Coupe models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 kg
Maximum towing weight:
820 models with manual transmission:
Braked trailer (all models except Turbo) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1550 kg
Braked trailer (Turbo models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1025 kg
Unbraked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 kg
820 models with automatic transmission:
Braked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1025 kg
Unbraked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 kg
825, 827 and Sterling models:
Braked trailer** . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1550 kg
Unbraked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 kg Maximum towing hitch downward load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 kg
*Depending on model and specification - refer to Rover dealer for exact recommendations. **On automatic transmission models, an auxiliary fluid cooler must be fitted if the towing weight is to exceed 1000 kg.
Roadside Repairs 0•7
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
Jacking, towing and wheel changing
Jacking
The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit should only be used for changing the roadwheels - see “Wheel changing” later in this Section. When carrying out any other kind of work, raise the vehicle using a hydraulic (or “trolley”) jack, and always supplement the jack with axle stands positioned under the vehicle jacking points (see illustration).
When using a hydraulic jack or axle stands, always position the jack head or axle stand
head under one of the relevant jacking points.
To raise the front of the vehicle, position the jack head under the front towing eye which is welded to the longitudinal support member running under the engine. Do not position the jack under the longitudinal member itself, or under the sump or any of the steering or suspension components.
To raise the rear of the vehicle, position the jack head under the rear towing eye which is welded to the reinforcement panel under the spare wheel carrier.
If the side of the vehicle is to be raised, position the jack head under the reinforced areas at the front or rear of the side sills.
The jack supplied with the vehicle also locates in the reinforced areas of the side sills. Ensure that the jack head is correctly engaged before attempting to raise the vehicle.
Never work under, around or near a raised vehicle unless it is adequately supported in at least two places.
Jacking points and axle stand locations
1 Front towing eye - used for raising the front of the car 2 Reinforced sill area - used for raising the side of the car, or
supporting on axle stands
3 Front chassis member - used for supporting the car on axle
stands
4 Rear chassis member - used for supporting the car on axle stands
5 Reinforced sill area - used for raising the side of the car, or
supporting on axle stands 6 Rear towing eye - used for raising the rear of the car 7 Square tubular chassis sections - Not suitable for jacking or
supporting 8 Suspension components - Not suitable for jacking or supporting
0•8 Roadside Repairs
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
Towing
Towing eyes are fitted to the front and rear of the vehicle for attachment of a tow rope. The front towing eye is situated under the centre of the front bumper and the rear towing eye is located under the centre of the rear bumper behind a detachable trim plate.
Always turn the ignition key to position II to ensure that the steering is unlocked and that the various switches (indicators and lights) are functional. It should also be noted that the brake servo and power-assisted steering will not be operating with the engine switched off and therefore an allowance will need to be made for reduced braking efficiency and increased steering effort.
Before being towed, release the handbrake and place the gear lever in neutral. Do not tow at a speed greater than 30 mph. On no account may the car be towed with the front wheels on the ground if the transmission is faulty, if the transmission oil or fluid is low or if the towing distance is greater than 30 miles.
Wheel changing
To change a roadwheel, first remove the spare wheel and jack which are located under the luggage compartment floor (see illustration). Firmly apply the handbrake and engage first gear on manual transmission models or PARK on automatic transmission models. Place chocks at the front and rear of the wheel diagonally opposite the one to be changed.
Remove the wheel trim and slacken the wheel nuts with the tools provided in the tool kit. Position the jack head in the reinforced jacking point, at the base of the sill nearest to the wheel to be changed. Raise the jack to just take the weight of the car. If the tyre is flat, position the base of the jack so that it is flat on the ground. If the tyre is not flat, position the jack so that the base elbow is resting on the ground and the base is just clear (see illustration). Raise the vehicle until the wheel is just clear of the ground, then remove the wheel nuts and the wheel. Fit the spare wheel and screw on the wheel nuts. Lower the jack until the tyre is just touching the ground, and tighten the wheel nuts moderately tight. Now lower the jack fully and tighten the wheel nuts securely in a diagonal sequence. Refit the wheel trim, then remove the jack and stow it together with the wheel and tools in the luggage compartment. Remember to check
the tightness of the wheel nuts using a torque wrench at the earliest opportunity.
Spare wheel and tool locations
1 Tool kit 2 Floor panel
3 Spare wheel clamp 4 Spare wheel
Using the vehicle tool kit jack
1 Jack base positioned flat on the ground (deflated tyre) 2 Jack positioned with base elbow on the ground, and base just clear (inflated tyre)
Roadside Repairs 0•9
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:
4 Before connecting the booster
battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.
4 Ensure that all electrical equipment
(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.
4 Make sure that the booster battery is
the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.
4 If the battery is being jump-started
from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.
4 Make sure that the transmission is in
neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).
Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are
three possibilities:
1
The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by
leaving the lights on.
2
The charging system is not working
properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).
3
The battery itself is at fault
(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).
Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery
Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.
Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery
Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started.
1
2
3
4
Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drive­belts or other moving parts of the engine.
5
Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.
6
Jump starting
Jump starting
0•10 Roadside Repairs
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.
Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.
Identifying leaks
The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking. Some
fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak.
Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.
Sump oil Gearbox oil
Brake fluid Power steering fluid
Oil from filter
Antifreeze
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.
Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.
A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.
Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.
Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system - precaution
The radio/cassette unit fitted as standard equipment by Rover is equipped with a built­in security code, to deter thieves. If the power source to the unit is cut, the anti-theft system will activate. Even if the power source is immediately reconnected, the radio/cassette unit will not function until the correct security
code has been entered. Therefore, if you do not know the correct security code for the radio/cassette unit do not disconnect either of the battery terminals, or remove the radio/cassette unit from the vehicle.
To enter the correct security code, follow
the instructions provided with the radio/cassette player handbook.
If an incorrect code is entered, the unit will
become locked, and cannot be operated.
If this happens, or if the security code is lost or forgotten, seek the advice of your Rover dealer.
Conversion Factors 0•11
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
Length (distance)
Inches (in) x 25.4 = Millimetres (mm) x 0.0394 = Inches (in) Feet (ft) x 0.305 = Metres (m) x 3.281 = Feet (ft) Miles x 1.609 = Kilometres (km) x 0.621 = Miles
Volume (capacity)
Cubic inches (cu in; in3) x 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm3) x 0.061 = Cubic inches (cu in; in3) Imperial pints (Imp pt) x 0.568 = Litres (l) x 1.76 = Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) x 1.137 = Litres (l) x 0.88 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) x 1.201 = US quarts (US qt) x 0.833 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) x 0.946 = Litres (l) x 1.057 = US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) x 4.546 = Litres (l) x 0.22 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) x 1.201 = US gallons (US gal) x 0.833 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal) x 3.785 = Litres (l) x 0.264 = US gallons (US gal)
Mass (weight)
Ounces (oz) x 28.35 = Grams (g) x 0.035 = Ounces (oz) Pounds (lb) x 0.454 = Kilograms (kg) x 2.205 = Pounds (lb)
Force
Ounces-force (ozf; oz) x 0.278 = Newtons (N) x 3.6 = Ounces-force (ozf; oz) Pounds-force (lbf; lb) x 4.448 = Newtons (N) x 0.225 = Pounds-force (lbf; lb) Newtons (N) x 0.1 = Kilograms-force (kgf; kg) x 9.81 = Newtons (N)
Pressure
Pounds-force per square inch x 0.070 = Kilograms-force per square x 14.223 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Pounds-force per square inch x 0.068 = Atmospheres (atm) x 14.696 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Pounds-force per square inch x 0.069 = Bars x 14.5 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Pounds-force per square inch x 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa) x 0.145 = Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Kilopascals (kPa) x 0.01 = Kilograms-force per square x 98.1 = Kilopascals (kPa)
centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2) Millibar (mbar) x 100 = Pascals (Pa) x 0.01 = Millibar (mbar) Millibar (mbar) x 0.0145 = Pounds-force per square inch x 68.947 = Millibar (mbar)
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) Millibar (mbar) x 0.75 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) x 1.333 = Millibar (mbar) Millibar (mbar) x 0.401 = Inches of water (inH2O) x 2.491 = Millibar (mbar)
Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) x 0.535 = Inches of water (inH
2
O) x 1.868 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)
Inches of water (inH2O) x 0.036 = Pounds-force per square inch x 27.68 = Inches of water (inH2O)
(psi; lbf/in
2
; lb/in2)
Torque (moment of force)
Pounds-force inches x 1.152 = Kilograms-force centimetre x 0.868 = Pounds-force inches (lbf in; lb in) (kgf cm; kg cm) (lbf in; lb in) Pounds-force inches x 0.113 = Newton metres (Nm) x 8.85 = Pounds-force inches
(lbf in; lb in) (lbf in; lb in) Pounds-force inches x 0.083 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 12 = Pounds-force inches (lbf in; lb in) (lbf in; lb in) Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 0.138 = Kilograms-force metres x 7.233 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)
(kgf m; kg m) Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 1.356 = Newton metres (Nm) x 0.738 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) Newton metres (Nm) x 0.102 = Kilograms-force metres x 9.804 = Newton metres (Nm)
(kgf m; kg m)
Power
Horsepower (hp) x 745.7 = Watts (W) x 0.0013 = Horsepower (hp)
Velocity (speed)
Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph) x 1.609 = Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) x 0.621 = Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)
Fuel consumption*
Miles per gallon (mpg) x 0.354 = Kilometres per litre (km/l) x 2.825 = Miles per gallon (mpg)
Temperature
Degrees Fahrenheit = (°C x 1.8) + 32 Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) x 0.56
* It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (l/100km), where mpg x l/100 km = 282
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
1
Engine
Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle) Oil filter:
4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion B101 V6 engines:
paper type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X119 cannister type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion E102
Cooling system
Coolant protection at 33% antifreeze/water mixture ratio:
Slush point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -19ºC (-2ºF) Solidifying point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -36ºC (-33ºF)
Coolant protection at 50% antifreeze/water mixture ratio:
Slush point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -36ºC (-33ºF) Solidifying point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -48ºC (-54ºF)
Fuel system
Air filter element:
“M” series 4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W114 “T” series 4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion type not available V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W601
Fuel filter:
4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L208 V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L207
Chapter 1
Routine maintenance and servicing
Accelerator cable and linkage check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Air conditioning system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Automatic transmission fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Auxiliary drivebelts check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Battery check, maintenance and charging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Braking system hydraulic fluid seal check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . 40 Clutch operation and hydraulic hose condition check . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Cooling system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Door, boot, tailgate and bonnet check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Driveshaft rubber gaiter and CV joint check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Emissions control equipment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Engine base idle speed and CO content check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Engine compartment wiring check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Fluid level checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Manual transmission oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Manual transmission oil renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Roadwheel nut tightness check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Routine maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Steering, suspension and roadwheel check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Timing belt condition and tension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Tyre and tyre pressure checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Underbody and fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . . . . . . . . . . 8 Windscreen/tailgate and headlight washer system and wiper
blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
1•1
Specifications
Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little experience
Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience
Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent DIY mechanic
Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic
Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
5
4
3
2
1
Ignition system
Firing order:
4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end) V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-4-2-5-3-6 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end on rear bank)
Spark plugs:
Type: *
4-cylinder normally aspirated engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC9YCC 4-cylinder turbocharged engines up to 1992 model year . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC 4-cylinder turbocharged engines 1992 model year onwards . . . . . Champion RC9YCC V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC9YCC4
Electrode gap: *
4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm
Spark plug (HT) leads:
Type:
4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-05 boxed set V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion boxed set not available
Maximum resistance per lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 000 ohms
* Information on spark plug types and electrode gaps is as recommended by Champion Spark Plug. Where alternative types are used, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations
Braking system
Front brake pad thickness (including backing but excluding shims):
New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17.4 mm Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.2 mm
Rear brake pad thickness (including backing):
New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14.5 mm Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.2 mm
Tyres
Tyre pressures (cold): Front Rear
195/70 VR 14 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 bar (26 psi) 1.8 bar (26 psi) 195/65 VR 15 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar (28 psi) 2.0 bar (28 psi) 205/55 VR or ZR 16 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.2 bar (32 psi) 205/60 VR 15 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar (28 psi) 2.0 bar (28 psi) 215/45 ZR 17 tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 bar (34 psi) 1.9 bar (28 psi) 115/70 R 15 (space saver spare tyre) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.1 bar (60 psi) 4.1 bar (60 psi)
Note: For sustained high speeds above 100 mph (160 km/h), increased pressures are necessary. Consult the driver’s handbook supplied with the vehicle.
Wiper blades
Windscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-5103 Tailgate/rear window . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion X-5103
Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft
Power steering pump bolts:
4-cylinder engines - rear-mounted pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18 4-cylinder engines - front-mounted pump:
Early version (4 mounting bolts) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7 Later version (5 mounting bolts) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
V6 engines:
Mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 29
Adjusting nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16 Power steering pump drivebelt tensioner wheel retaining nut (4-cylinder engines - rear mounted pump) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33 Alternator pivot and mounting bolts (4-cylinder engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18 Alternator adjustment bracket bolts (4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9 Alternator side pivot bolt (V6 engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33 Alternator lower mounting nut (V6 engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 17 Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33 Manual transmission filler/level and drain plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33 Automatic transmission drain plugs:
4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11 V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30
Spark plugs:
4-cylinder engines up to 1991 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13 4-cylinder engines from 1991 onward . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18 V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13
Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 81
1•2 Specifications
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
Lubricants and fluids
Component or system Lubricant type/specification
1 Engine Multigrade engine oil to specification API SG/CD or better,
viscosity range 5W/50 to 10W/40
2 Cooling system Soft water, and antifreeze (ethylene glycol-based, suitable
for use in mixed-metal cooling systems)
3 Manual transmission Multigrade engine oil to specification API SG/CD or better,
viscosity 10W/40
4 Automatic transmission Dexron IID type ATF 5 Power steering fluid reservoir Dexron IID type ATF 6 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir Hydraulic fluid to FMVSS 116 DOT 4 General greasing Multipurpose lithium based grease
Capacities
Engine oil (including filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litres Cooling system:
4-cylinder engines:
“M” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 litres “T” series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 litres
V6 engines:
2.5 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0 litres
2.7 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.6 litres Manual transmission (drain and refill) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 litres Automatic transmission (drain and refill):
4-cylinder engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litres
V6 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.2 litres Power steering reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 litres Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 litres
Lubricants, fluids and capacities 1•3
1
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
Rover 800 Series maintenance schedule
1•4 Maintenance and servicing
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
The manufacturer’s recommended maintenance schedule for these vehicles is as described below - note that the schedule starts from the vehicle’s date of registration. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the factory for vehicles driven daily, but subjected only to “normal” use. If you wish to keep your car in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures even more often. Because frequent maintenance enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your car, we encourage you to do so. If your usage is not “normal”, shorter intervals are also recommended - the most important examples of
these are noted in the schedule. These shorter intervals apply particularly if you drive in dusty areas, tow a caravan or trailer, sit with the engine idling or drive at low speeds for extended periods (ie, in heavy traffic), or drive for short distances (less than four miles) in below-freezing temperatures.
Although the manufacturer’s intervals have been extended to one main service at 12 000 mile (12 monthly) intervals for 1994 models onward, the earlier schedule which also includes a lubrication service at 6000 mile (6 monthly) intervals, is the schedule shown in this Chapter.
W eekly checks
mm Check the engine oil level, and top-up if necessary
(Section 3).
mm Check the brake fluid level, and top-up if necessary
(Section 3). If repeated topping-up is required, check the system for leaks or damage at the earliest possible opportunity (Section 24).
mm Check the windscreen/tailgate and headlight washer fluid
level, and top-up if necessary (Section 3).
mm Check the tyre pressures, including the spare (Section 4). mm Visually check the tyres for excessive tread wear, or
damage (Section 4).
mm Check the operation of all (exterior and interior) lights and
the horn, wipers and windscreen/tailgate washer system (Sections 6 and 13).
mm Renew any blown bulbs (Chapter 12), and clean the
lenses of all exterior lights.
mm Check the coolant level, and top-up if necessary (Sec-
tion 3).
mm Check the battery electrolyte level, where applicable
(Section 3).
mm Check the power steering fluid level, and top-up if
necessary (Section 5).
mm Check the aim of the windscreen/tailgate/headlight
washer jets, correcting them if required (Section 6).
mm Check the condition of the wiper blades, renewing them if
worn or no longer effective (Section 6).
mm Visually check all reservoirs, hoses and pipes for leakage
(Section 8).
mm Check the operation of the air conditioning system (where
applicable) (Section 18).
Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months, whichever occurs first
mm Check the cooling system (Section 9). mm Check the operation of the accelerator cable and linkage
(Section 10).
mm Renew the spark plugs (models without emission control
equipment) (Section 11).
mm Renew the air cleaner filter element (models without
emission control equipment) (Section 12).
mm Check the electrical system (Section 13). mm Check the battery (Section 14). mm Check the seat belts (Section 15). mm Check the auxiliary drivebelt(s) (Section 16). mm Check the condition of all engine compartment wiring
(Section 17).
mm Check the condition of all air conditioning system
components (where applicable) (Section 18).
mm Check the engine idle speed and mixture (where
applicable) (Section 19).
mm Check the manual transmission oil level (Section 20). mm Check the steering, suspension and roadwheels (Sec-
tion 21).
mm Check the driveshaft rubber gaiters and CV joints (Sec-
tion 22).
mm Check the exhaust system (Section 23). mm Check the underbody, and all fuel/brake lines (Sec-
tion 24).
mm Check the clutch operation and hydraulic hose condition
(Section 25).
mm Check the brake system (Section 26). mm Check the doors and bonnet, and lubricate their hinges
and locks (Section 27).
mm Check the condition of the bodywork and all exterior trim
(Section 28).
mm Check the security of all roadwheel nuts (Section 29). mm Road test (Section 30). mm Check the level of the automatic transmission fluid after
road test (Section 31).
Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or 6 months, whichever occurs first
mm Change the engine oil and filter (Section 7). mm Check under the bonnet for fluid leaks and hose condition
(Section 8).
Maintenance and servicing 1•5
1 Vehicle identification plate 2 Screen washer reservoir filler 3 Power steering fluid reservoir
filler
4 Cooling system expansion tank
filler
5 Front shock absorber top
mounting
6 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir
filler 7 Brake master cylinder 8 Vacuum servo unit 9 Fuel filter 10 Power steering pump drivebelt
(early models) 11 Distributor cap 12 Ignition coil 13 Brake pressure reducing valve 14 Fuse and relay box 15 Battery negative terminal 16 Battery positive terminal 17 Ignition/fuel ECU 18 Air cleaner assembly 19 Radiator cooling fan 20 Air cleaner intake trunking 21 Engine oil dipstick 22 Alternator 23 Thermostat housing 24 Engine oil filler cap
1
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2 years, whichever occurs first
mm Renew the spark plugs (models with emission control
equipment) (Section 11).
mm Renew the air cleaner filter element (models with emission
control equipment) (Section 12).
mm Check the condition and tension of the timing belt
(Section 32).
mm Check the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system (Section 33). mm Renew the fuel filter (Section 34). mm Renew the automatic transmission fluid (Section 35). mm Renew the brake fluid (Section 36). mm Renew the manual transmission oil (Section 37). mm Renew the coolant (Section 38).
Every 48 000 miles (80 000 km)
mm Renew the timing belt (Section 39).
Every 60 000 miles (100 000 km) or 5 years, whichever occurs first
mm Renew the braking system rubber seals (recommendation
only) (Section 40).
mm Check the operation of the emission control equipment
(Section 41).
Engine compartment component locations ­4-cylinder engine models with single-point fuel injection
1•6 Maintenance and servicing
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
1 Vehicle identification plate 2 Screen washer reservoir filler 3 Power steering fluid reservoir
filler
4 Cooling system expansion tank
filler
5 Front shock absorber top
mounting
6 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir
filler 7 Brake master cylinder 8 Vacuum servo unit 9 Fuel filter 10 Ignition system ECU 11 Ignition coil 12 Brake pressure reducing valve 13 Fuse and relay box 14 Battery negative terminal 15 Battery positive terminal 16 Air cleaner assembly 17 Radiator cooling fan 18 Air cleaner intake trunking 19 Engine oil dipstick 20 Airflow meter 21 Throttle housing 22 Plenum chamber 23 Engine oil filler cap 24 Alternator 25 Power steering pump (later
models)
Engine compartment component locations ­4-cylinder engine models with multi-point fuel injection
1 Engine oil dipstick 2 Screen washer reservoir filler 3 Power steering fluid reservoir
filler 4 Cooling system expansion tank
filler 5 Alternator 6 Power steering pump 7 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir
filler 8 Fuel filter 9 Control box 10 Ignition coil 11 Throttle body 12 ABS modulator 13 Fuse and relay box 14 Battery negative terminal 15 Battery positive terminal 16 Air cleaner assembly 17 Engine oil filler cap
Engine compartment component locations - V6 engine models
Maintenance and servicing 1•7
1
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
1 Engine undertray 2 Front towing eye 3 Longitudinal support member 4 Clutch slave cylinder 5 Reversing light switch 6 Front tie-bar 7 Transmission drain plug 8 Inner constant velocity joint 9 Transmission filler plug 10 Front anti-roll bar 11 Gearchange rod 12 Steady rod 13 Fuel pipes 14 Exhaust section flange joint 15 Power steering gear 16 Steering track rod 17 Front lower suspension arm 18 Brake caliper 19 Oil filter 20 Driveshaft damper 21 Engine oil drain plug
Underside view at front end showing component locations on 4-cylinder engine models
1 Exhaust intermediate section 2 Fuel tank 3 Exhaust rear heat shield 4 Handbrake cable 5 Fuel pipes 6 Trailing link 7 Fuel filler neck connection 8 Transverse link 9 Fuel tank retaining straps 10 Rear anti-roll bar 11 Rear silencer 12 Brake caliper
Underside view at rear end
3 Fluid level checks
1
General
1 Fluids are an essential part of the lubrication, cooling, braking and other systems. Because these fluids gradually become depleted and/or contaminated during normal operation of the vehicle, they must be periodically replenished. See “Lubricants, fluids and capacities” at the beginning of this Chapter before adding fluid to any of the following components. Note: The vehicle
must be on level ground before fluid levels can be checked.
Engine oil
2 The engine oil level is checked with a dipstick located at the front of the engine in the centre, or on the right-hand side (see illustration). The dipstick extends through a metal tube, from which it protrudes down into the sump at the bottom of the engine. 3 The oil level should be checked before the vehicle is driven, or about 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. If the level is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will remain in the engine upper components, producing an inaccurate reading. 4 Pull the dipstick from the tube, and wipe all the oil from the end with a clean rag or paper towel; note the dipstick’s maximum and minimum levels, indicated by holes on the dipstick (see illustration). Insert the clean dipstick all the way back into its metal tube,
and pull it out again. Observe the oil on the end of the dipstick; its level should be between these two holes. 5 Do not allow the level to drop below the minimum level notch, or oil starvation may cause engine damage. Conversely, overfilling
the engine (adding oil above the maximum level notch) may cause oil-fouled spark plugs, oil leaks or oil seal failures. 6 The oil filler cap is screwed into the right­hand front end of the valve cover; unscrew it to add oil (see illustrations). When topping-
Maintenance procedures
1•8 Maintenance and servicing
3.6b . . . and on V6 engines3.6a Topping up the engine oil on 4-
cylinder engines . . .
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
1 Introduction
This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain the Rover 800 Series models for peak performance, economy, safety and long life.
Contained in this Chapter is a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each item on the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component replacement and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the location of various components.
Servicing your Rover in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide it with a
planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals will not produce the same results.
As you service your car, you will discover that many of the procedures can - and should ­be grouped together, because of the nature of the particular procedure you’re performing, or because of the close proximity to one another of two otherwise-unrelated components.
For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, you should inspect the exhaust, suspension, steering and fuel systems while you’re under the vehicle. When you’re checking the tyres, it makes good sense to check the brakes and wheel bearings, especially if the roadwheels have already been removed.
Finally, let’s suppose you have to borrow or
hire a torque wrench. Even if you only need to tighten the spark plugs, you might as well check the torque of as many critical fasteners as time allows.
2 Routine maintenance
The first step of this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the Sections which are relevant to the procedures you’re planning to carry out, then make a list of, and gather together, all the parts and tools you will need to do the job. If it looks as if you might run into problems during a particular segment of some procedure, seek advice from your local parts man or dealer service department.
Weekly checks
3.4 Note the dipstick’s maximum and
minimum levels, indicated by holes on the
dipstick
3.2 Engine oil dipstick location (arrowed) on V6 engines
up, use only the correct grade and type of oil, as given in the “Lubricants, fluids and capacities” Section of this Chapter; use a funnel if necessary to prevent spills. After adding the oil, refit the filler cap hand-tight. Start the engine, and allow it to idle while the oil is redistributed around the engine - while you are waiting, look carefully for any oil leaks, particularly around the oil filter or drain plug. Stop the engine; check the oil level again, after the oil has had enough time to drain from the upper block and cylinder head galleries. 7 Checking the oil level is an important preventive maintenance step. A continually­dropping oil level indicates oil leakage through damaged seals and from loose connections, or oil consumption past worn piston rings or valve guides. If the oil looks milky in colour, or has water droplets in it, the cylinder head gasket may be blown - the engine’s compression pressure should be checked immediately (see Chapter 2). The condition of the oil should also be checked. Each time you check the oil level, slide your thumb and index finger up the dipstick before wiping off the oil. If you see small dirt or metal particles clinging to the dipstick, the oil should be changed.
Coolant
Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank filler cap, or to disturb any part of the
cooling system, while it or the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding.
8 All vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with a sealed, pressurised cooling system. A translucent plastic expansion tank, located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment, is connected by a hose to the thermostat housing or radiator top hose. As the coolant heats up during engine operation, surplus coolant passes through the connecting hose into the expansion tank. As the engine cools, the coolant is automatically drawn back into the cooling system’s main components, to maintain the correct level. 9 While the coolant level must be checked regularly, remember that it will vary with the temperature of the engine. When the engine is cold, the level should be up to the pipe outlet on the side of the tank, but once the engine has warmed up, the level may rise to above this level. 10 For an accurate check of the coolant level, the engine must be cold and the level must be up to the pipe outlet. If it is below this level, the coolant must be topped-up as follows. 11 First prepare a sufficient quantity of coolant mixture, using clean, soft water and antifreeze of the recommended type, in the specified mixture ratio. If only a small amount of coolant is required to bring the system up to the proper level, plain water can be used, but repeatedly doing this will dilute the antifreeze/water solution in the system, reducing the protection it should provide against freezing and corrosion. To maintain
the specified antifreeze/water ratio, it is essential to top-up the coolant level with the correct mixture, as described here. Use only ethylene/glycol type antifreeze, and do not use supplementary inhibitors or additives.
Warning: Never remove the expansion tank filler cap when the engine is running, or has
just been switched off, as the cooling system will be hot, and the consequent escaping steam and scalding coolant could cause serious injury.
12 If topping-up is necessary, wait until the system has cooled completely (or at least 10 minutes after switching off the engine, if lack of time means it is absolutely necessary to top-up while the engine may still be warm). Wrap a thick cloth around the expansion tank filler cap, and unscrew it one full turn. If any hissing is heard as steam escapes, wait until the hissing ceases, indicating that pressure is released, then slowly unscrew the filler cap until it can be removed. If more hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before unscrewing the filler cap completely. At all times, keep your face, hands and other exposed skin well away from the filler opening. 13 When the filler cap has been removed, add coolant to bring the level up to the outlet pipe level (see illustration). Refit the cap, tightening it securely. 14 With this type of cooling system, the addition of coolant should only be necessary at very infrequent intervals. If topping-up is regularly required, or if the coolant level drops within a short time after replenishment, there may be a leak in the system. 15 Inspect the radiator, hoses, expansion tank filler cap, radiator drain plug and water pump. If no leak is evident, have the filler cap and the entire system pressure-tested by your dealer or garage; this will usually show up a small leak not otherwise visible.
Windscreen/tailgate and headlight washer fluid
16 Fluid for the windscreen/tailgate/headlight washer system is stored in a plastic reservoir, the filler neck of which is located at the right­hand front corner of the engine compartment. 17 To check the fluid level, release the cap and observe the level in the reservoir by looking down the filler neck. In milder
climates, plain water can be used to top-up the reservoir, but the reservoir should be kept no more than two-thirds full, to allow for expansion should the water freeze. In colder climates, the use of a specially-formulated windscreen washer fluid, available at your dealer or any car accessory shop, will help lower the freezing point of the fluid. Do not use regular (engine) antifreeze - it will damage the vehicle’s paintwork.
Battery electrolyte
18 On models not equipped with a sealed battery (see Section 9), check the electrolyte level of all six battery cells. The level must be approximately 10 mm above the plates; this may be shown by maximum and minimum level lines marked on the battery’s casing. If the level is low, use a coin to release the filler/vent cap, and add distilled water. Install and retighten the cap.
Caution: Overfilling the cells may cause electrolyte to spill over during periods of heavy charging, causing corrosion or damage. Refer to the warning at the beginning of Section 9.
Brake fluid
19 The brake fluid reservoir is located on the top of the brake master cylinder, attached to the front of the vacuum servo unit. The “MAX” and “MIN” marks are indicated on the side of the translucent reservoir, and the fluid level should be maintained between these marks at all times. 20 The brake fluid inside the reservoir is readily visible. With the vehicle on level ground, the level should be on or just below the “MAX” mark. 21 Progressive wear of the brake pad linings causes the level of the brake fluid to gradually fall; however, when the brake pads are renewed, the original level of the fluid is restored. It is not therefore necessary to top­up the level to compensate for this minimal drop, but the level must never be allowed to fall below the minimum mark. 22 If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag before removing the cap - do not invert the cap after removal. When adding fluid, pour it carefully into the reservoir, to avoid spilling it on surrounding painted surfaces (see illustration).
Weekly Checks 1•9
3.22 Topping up the brake master cylinder reservoir
3.13 Topping up the cooling system
1
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
Be sure to use only the specified hydraulic fluid (see “Lubricants, fluids and capacities” at the start of this Chapter) since mixing different types of fluid can cause damage to the system.
Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use
extreme caution when handling and pouring it. Wash off spills immediately with plenty of water. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air. Excess moisture can cause corrosion and a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.
23 When adding fluid, it is a good idea to inspect the reservoir for contamination. The system should be drained and refilled if deposits, dirt particles or contamination are seen in the fluid. 24 After filling the reservoir to the correct level, make sure that the cap is refitted
securely, to avoid leaks and the entry of foreign matter. 25 If the reservoir requires repeated replenishing to maintain the correct level, this is an indication of an hydraulic leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately.
Power steering fluid
26 See Section 5 of this Chapter.
4 Tyre and tyre pressure
checks
1
1 Periodic inspection of the tyres may spare you from the inconvenience of being stranded with a flat tyre. It can also provide you with vital information regarding possible problems in the steering and suspension systems before major damage occurs. 2 The current tyres are equipped with tread wear indicator (TWI) bands, which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately
1.6 mm. Most tyres have a mark around the tyre at regular intervals to indicate the location of the tread wear indicators, the mark being TWI, an arrow, or the tyre manufacturer’s symbol. Tread wear can also be monitored with a simple inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge (see illustration). 3 Ensure that tyre pressures are checked regularly and maintained correctly (see the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter for pressures). Checking should be carried out with the tyres cold, and not immediately after
the vehicle has been in use. If the pressures are checked with the tyres hot, an apparently­high reading will be obtained, owing to heat expansion. Under no circumstances should an attempt be made to reduce the pressures to the quoted cold reading in this instance, or effective under-inflation will result. Most garage forecourts have a pressure line which combines a gauge to check and adjust the tyre pressures, but they may vary in accuracy, due to general misuse and abuse. It therefore pays to carry a good-quality tyre pressure gauge in the vehicle, to make the checks required and ensure pressure accuracy.
4 Note any abnormal tread wear (see illustration). Tread pattern irregularities such
as feathering, flat spots, and more wear on one side than the other, are indications of front wheel alignment and/or balance problems. If any of these conditions are noted, they should be rectified as soon as possible. 5 Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, owing to excessive flexing of the casing, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a consequent loss of adhesion and excessive wear, as well as the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. 6 Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced adhesion, harder ride, and the danger of damage occurring in the tyre casing. 7 Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Remove any nails or stones
1•10 Weekly Checks
4.2 Checking the tyre tread depth with a depth gauge
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
Tyre tread wear patterns
Shoulder Wear
Underinflation (wear on both sides)
Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures
Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)
Repair or renew suspension parts
Hard cornering
Reduce speed!
Centre Wear
Overinflation
Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.
Check and adjust pressures If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s
tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.
Uneven Wear
Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.
Incorrect camber or castor
Repair or renew suspension parts
Malfunctioning suspension
Repair or renew suspension parts
Unbalanced wheel
Balance tyres
Incorrect toe setting
Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.
embedded in the tread, before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail reveals that the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail, so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Do not drive on a tyre in such a condition. If in any doubt as to the possible consequences of any damage found, consult your local tyre dealer for advice. 8 General tyre wear is influenced to a large degree by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. Interchanging of tyres may result in more even wear; however, it is worth bearing in mind that if this is completely effective, the added expense is incurred of replacing simultaneously a complete set of tyres, which may prove financially restrictive for many owners. 9 Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. The front wheels should always be correctly aligned according to the settings specified by the vehicle manufacturer. 10 Don’t forget to check the spare tyre for condition and pressure. 11 Legal restrictions apply to many aspects of tyre fitting and usage, and in the UK this information is contained in the Motor Vehicle Construction and Use Regulations. It is suggested that a copy of these regulations is obtained from your local police, if in doubt as to current legal requirements with regard to tyre type and condition, minimum tread depth, etc.
5 Power steering fluid level
check
1
1 The power steering fluid reservoir is located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment next to the cooling system expansion tank. 2 For the fluid level check on 4-cylinder models, the power steering system must be cold; on V6 models, it may be either hot or cold.
3 Use a clean rag to wipe the filler cap and the surrounding area, to prevent foreign matter from entering the system. Unscrew and remove the filler cap. 4 Check that the fluid level is up to the “MAX” mark on the dipstick. On V6 engine models, there is a scale on both sides of the dipstick, one for hot checking and one for cold checking. 5 Top-up the level to the “MAX” mark, using the grade of fluid specified at the beginning of this Chapter (see illustration). Be careful not to introduce dirt into the system, and do not overfill. The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated.
6 Refit the filler cap.
6 Windscreen/tailgate and
headlight washer system and wiper blade check
1
1 The windscreen and tailgate wiper and blade assembly should be inspected at the specified intervals for damage, loose components, and cracked or worn blade elements. 2 Road film can build up on the wiper blades and affect their efficiency, so they should be washed regularly with a mild detergent solution. 3 The action of the wiping mechanism can loosen bolts, nuts and fasteners, so they
should be checked and tightened, as necessary, at the same time as the wiper blades are checked. 4 If the wiper blade elements are cracked, worn or warped, or no longer clean adequately, they should be replaced with new ones. 5 Switch on the ignition, and the windscreen wipers, then park the wipers vertically on the windscreen while they are still running. Lift the wiper arm and blade away from the glass. 6 To remove the wiper blade, depress the catch on the blade attachment, then withdraw the blade assembly off the arm (see
illustration). 7 The tailgate wiper blade is removed in the
same way, but it is not necessary to park it in the centre of the glass prior to removal. 8 If the metal part of the wiper blade is in good condition, it may be possible to renew the rubber insert separately. The insert can be obtained from a car accessory shop and, according to type, it may need to be cut to the correct length before sliding into the clips. 9 Refit the wiper blade assembly using a reversal of the removal procedure, making sure that it fully engages with the spring clip. 10 Check that the washer jets direct the fluid onto the upper part of the windscreen/tailgate, and if necessary adjust the small sphere on the jet with a pin. Note that the headlight washer jets are of the fixed type and cannot be adjusted.
Weekly Checks 1•11
6.6 Remove the windscreen wiper blade
by depressing the catch on the blade, then
withdraw the blade assembly off the arm
5.5 Topping up the power steering fluid reservoir
1
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
Every 6000 miles or 6 months, whichever occurs first
7 Engine oil and filter change
1
1 Make sure that you have all the necessary tools before you begin this procedure. You should also have plenty of rags or newspapers handy, for mopping up any spills. 2 To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. 3 Access to the underside of the vehicle is greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on a hoist, driven onto ramps, or supported by axle stands.
Warning: Do not work under a vehicle which is supported only by an hydraulic or scissor-type jack, or by bricks, blocks of wood, etc.
4 If this is your first oil change, get under the vehicle and familiarise yourself with the position of the engine oil drain plug location in the sump. The engine and exhaust components will be warm during the actual work, so try to anticipate any potential problems while the engine and accessories are cool. 5 The oil should preferably be changed when
Frequent oil changes are the best preventive maintenance the home
mechanic can give the engine, because ageing oil becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.
the engine is still at normal operating temperature, just after a run; warm oil and sludge will flow out more easily. Park the vehicle on firm, level ground, apply the handbrake, then select 1st or reverse gear (manual transmission) or the “P” position (automatics). Open the bonnet and remove the engine oil filler cap from the valve cover, then remove the oil level dipstick. 6 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it securely on axle stands. Remove the front right-hand roadwheel, then remove the plastic panel under the wheelarch to provide additional access to the oil filter.
Warning: To avoid personal injury, never get beneath the vehicle when it is supported by
only by a jack. The jack provided with your vehicle is designed solely for raising the vehicle to remove and refit the roadwheels. Always use axle stands to support the vehicle when it becomes necessary to place your body underneath the vehicle.
7 Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust components, place the drain pan under the drain plug, and unscrew the plug. If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns. As the plug releases from the threads, move it away sharply, so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the pan, not up your sleeve! Allow the oil to drain into the drain pan, and check the condition of the plug’s sealing washer; renew it if worn or damaged. 8 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the pan as the oil flow slows to a trickle. When the oil has completely drained, wipe clean the drain plug and its threads in the sump and refit the plug, tightening it securely. 9 On all engines except the 2.5 litre V6, the oil filter renewal procedure is relatively simple; proceed as follows. Reposition the drain pan under the oil filter then, using a filter removal tool, unscrew the oil filter from the housing; be prepared for some oil spillage (see illustration). Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the engine; if it has, carefully remove it. Withdraw
the filter, taking care to spill as little oil as possible. 10 Using a clean, lint-free rag, wipe clean the cylinder block around the filter mounting. If there are no specific instructions supplied with it, fit a new oil filter as follows. Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the filter’s sealing ring. Screw the filter into position on the engine until it seats, then tighten it through a further half- to three-quarters of a turn only. Tighten the filter by hand only - do not use any tools. 11 On 2.5 litre V6 engines the filter is a cartridge contained within the filter housing. 12 Reposition the drain pan under the filter assembly and first, drain the filter by unscrewing the drain plug on the side of the housing (see illustration). Refit the plug when the filter has drained. Now undo the three retaining nuts and withdraw the baseplate from the filter assembly. As you do this be prepared for oil spillage and catch the filter cartridge and its components, which will fall out and probably land in the oil as the baseplate is removed. Retrieve the filter lower spring and the sealing ring on the baseplate. 13 Clean the baseplate thoroughly and wipe around the inside of the filter housing using a clean lint-free rag. 14 Locate the new sealing ring in the baseplate, then fit the spring to the locating lugs in the baseplate. Locate the filter in the housing, and refit the baseplate. Screw on the three nuts and tighten them securely. 15 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the vehicle, refit the access panel and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground. 16 Refill the engine with oil, using the correct grade and type of oil, as given in the “Lubricants, fluids and capacities” Section of this Chapter. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time, until the level is up
to the lower notch on the dipstick. Adding approximately 0.5 to 1.0 litre will raise the level to the dipstick’s upper notch. 17 Start the engine. The oil pressure warning light will take a few seconds to go out while the new filter fills with oil; do not race the engine while the light is on. Run the engine for a few minutes, while checking for leaks around the oil filter seal and the drain plug. 18 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter now completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, adding more oil as necessary. 19 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to “General repair procedures” in the Reference Section of this manual.
8 Underbonnet check for fluid
leaks and hose condition
2
Caution: Renewal of air conditioning hoses must be left to a dealer service department or air conditioning specialist who has the equipment to depressurise the system safely. Never remove air conditioning components or hoses until the system has been depressurised.
General
1 High temperatures in the engine compartment can cause the deterioration of the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine, accessory and emission systems operation. Periodic inspection should be made for cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and leaks. 2 Carefully check the large top and bottom radiator hoses, along with the other smaller­diameter cooling system hoses and metal pipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipes which run from the engine to the bulkhead. Inspect each hose along its entire length, replacing any that is cracked, swollen or shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may become more apparent if the hose is squeezed. 3 Make sure that all hose connections are tight. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits on the areas adjoining the leak; if the spring clamps that are used to secure the hoses in this system appear to be slackening, they should be renewed to prevent the possibility of leaks. 4 Some other hoses are secured to their fittings with clamps. Where clamps are used, check that they haven’t lost their tension, allowing the hose to leak. If clamps aren’t used, make sure the hose has not expanded and/or hardened where it slips over the fitting, allowing it to leak. 5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs of leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering
1•12 Every 6000 miles
7.12 Oil filter cartridge components on
2.5 litre V6 engines
1 Engine oil drain plug 2 Oil filter housing drain plug 3 Baseplate retaining nuts 4 Baseplate 5 Oil filter cartridge 6 Spring locating lugs 7 Spring 8 Sealing ring
7.9 Using a filter removal tool, unscrew the oil filter from the housing
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
fluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in the same place, close inspection of the ground underneath it will soon show any leaks; ignore the puddle of water which will be left if the air conditioning system is in use. As soon as a leak is detected, its source must be traced and rectified. Where oil has been leaking for some time, it is usually necessary to use a steam cleaner, pressure washer or similar, to clean away the accumulated dirt, so that the exact source of the leak can be identified.
Vacuum hoses
6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses, especially those in the emissions system, to be numbered or colour-coded, or to be identified by coloured stripes moulded into them. Various systems require hoses with different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance and temperature resistance. When renewing hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the same material. 7 Often the only effective way to check a hose is to remove it completely from the vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure correct installation. 8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to include any plastic T-fittings in the check. Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check the hose where it fits over the fitting
for distortion, which could cause leakage. 9 A small piece of vacuum hose (quarter-inch inside diameter) can be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end of the hose to your ear, and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the “hissing” sound characteristic of a vacuum leak.
Warning: When probing with the vacuum hose stethoscope, be very careful not to come into
contact with moving engine components such as the auxiliary drivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.
Fuel hoses
Warning: There are certain
precautions which must be
taken when inspecting or
servicing fuel system components. Work in a well-ventilated area, and do not allow open flames (cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) or bare light bulbs near the work area. Mop up any spills immediately, and do not store fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.
10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas where the hose bends, and also just before fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the fuel filter.
11 High-quality fuel line, usually identified by the word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on the hose, should be used for fuel line renewal. Never, under any circumstances, use unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing or water hose for fuel lines. 12 Spring-type clamps are commonly used on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their tension over a period of time, and can be “sprung” during removal. Replace all spring­type clamps with screw clamps whenever a hose is replaced.
Metal lines
13 Sections of metal piping are often used for fuel line between the fuel filter and the engine. Check carefully to be sure the piping has not been bent or crimped, and that cracks have not started in the line. 14 If a section of metal fuel line must be renewed, only seamless steel piping should be used, since copper and aluminium piping don’t have the strength necessary to withstand normal engine vibration. 15 Check the metal brake lines where they enter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulic unit (if used) for cracks in the lines or loose fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls for an immediate and thorough inspection of the brake system.
Every 12 000 miles 1•13
1
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
Every 12 000 miles or 12 months, whichever occurs first
9 Cooling system check
1
1 The engine should be cold for the cooling system checks, so perform the following procedure before driving the vehicle, or after it has been shut off for at least three hours. 2 Remove the expansion tank filler cap (Section 3), and clean it thoroughly inside and out with a rag. Clean the filler neck on the expansion tank. The presence of rust or corrosion in the filler neck indicates that the coolant should be changed. The coolant inside the expansion tank should be relatively clean and transparent. If it is rust-coloured, drain and flush the system, and refill with a fresh coolant mixture. 3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses as described in Section 8. 4 Inspect all other cooling system components (joint faces, etc.) for leaks. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gasket with reference to Chapter 3. 5 Clean the front of the radiator with a soft brush to remove all insects, leaves, etc, embedded in the radiator fins. Be careful not
to damage the radiator fins, or cut your fingers on them.
10 Accelerator cable and
linkage check and lubrication
1
1 From within the engine compartment check the condition of the accelerator cable ensuring that it isn’t kinked or trapped behind any other components or fittings. Make sure that all clips and cable ties are in place and that the cable properly supported. Where cruise control is fitted, check the cruise control operating cable in the same way. 2 Operate the throttle by means of the accelerator pedal and make sure that the action is smooth without notchiness or evidence of binding. 3 Finally, lubricate the throttle linkage and the accelerator pedal pivot with a few drops of light oil.
11 Spark plug renewal
1
Note: Spark plug renewal at this service interval is only necessary on certain engines without emission control equipment. On all
other engines the recommended interval for spark plug renewal is every 24 000 miles or 2 years. Consult the spark plug manufacturer or a Rover dealer for their advice concerning renewal intervals.
Spark plug check and renewal
1 It is vital for the correct running, full performance and proper economy of the engine that the spark plugs perform with maximum efficiency. The most important factor in ensuring this, is that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine. The suitable type is given in the Specifications Section at the beginning of this Chapter, or in the vehicle’s Owner’s Handbook. If this type is used and the engine is in good condition, the spark plugs should not need attention between scheduled renewal intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary, and should not be attempted unless specialised equipment is available, as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends. 2 Spark plug removal and refitting requires a spark plug socket, with an extension which can be turned by a ratchet handle or similar. This socket is lined with a rubber sleeve, to protect the porcelain insulator of the spark plug, and to hold the plug while you insert it into the spark plug hole. You will also need a wire-type feeler gauge, to check and adjust the spark plug electrode gap, and a torque
wrench to tighten the new plugs to the specified torque (see illustration). 3 To remove the spark plugs, first open the bonnet; the plugs are easily reached at the top of the engine or on the front and rear facing sides. Note how the spark plug (HT) leads are routed and secured by clips, and on some engines, how they’re positioned along the channel in the cylinder head cover. To prevent the possibility of mixing up spark plug (HT) leads, it is a good idea to work on one spark plug at a time. 4 If the marks on the original-equipment spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark the leads 1 to 4 (or 1 to 6), to correspond to the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of the engine on 4-cylinder engines, and at the timing belt end of the engine on the rear bank under the brake master cylinder on V6 engines). 5 On 4-cylinder engines, undo the bolts securing the spark plug cover to the centre of the cylinder head, noting the accelerator cable support bracket on early engines. Lift off the cover and again, on early engines, release the HT lead grommet from the end of the cover. 6 On all engines, pull the leads from the plugs by gripping the rubber boot, not the lead, otherwise the lead connection may be fractured. 7 Unscrew the spark plugs, ensuring that the socket is kept in alignment with each plug - if the socket is forcibly moved to either side, the porcelain top of the plug may be broken off. If any undue difficulty is encountered when unscrewing any of the spark plugs, carefully
check the cylinder head threads and tapered sealing surfaces for signs of wear, excessive corrosion or damage; if any of these conditions is found, seek the advice of a dealer as to the best method of repair. 8 As each plug is removed, examine it as follows - this will give a good indication of the condition of the engine. If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture. 9 If the tip and insulator nose are covered with hard black-looking deposits, then this is indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich. 10 If the insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is correct, and it is likely that the engine is in good condition. 11 If you are renewing the spark plugs, purchase the new plugs, then check each of them first for faults such as cracked insulators or damaged threads. Note also that, whenever the spark plugs are renewed as a routine service operation, the spark plug (HT) leads should be checked as described below. 12 The spark plug electrode gap is of considerable importance as, if it is too large or too small, the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. The gap should be set to the value given in the Specifications Section of this Chapter. New plugs will not necessarily be set to the correct gap, so they should always be checked before fitting. 13 Special spark plug electrode gap adjusting tools are available from most motor accessory shops. 14 To set the electrode gap, measure the gap with a feeler gauge or adjusting tool, and then bend open, or closed, the outer plug electrode until the correct gap is achieved (see illustrations). The centre electrode should never be bent, as this may crack the insulation and cause plug failure, if nothing worse. If the outer electrode is not exactly over the centre electrode, bend it gently to align them. 15 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that the threaded connector sleeves at the top of the plugs are tight, and that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are
clean. Brown staining on the porcelain, immediately above the metal body, is quite normal, and does not necessarily indicate a leak between the body and insulator. 16 On installing the spark plugs, first check that the cylinder head thread and sealing surface are as clean as possible; use a clean rag wrapped around a paintbrush to wipe clean the sealing surface. Apply a smear of copper-based grease or anti-seize compound to the threads of each plug, and screw them in by hand where possible.
17 When each spark plug is started correctly on its threads, screw it down until it just seats lightly, then tighten it to the specified torque wrench setting. 18 Reconnect the spark plug (HT) leads in their correct order, using a twisting motion on the boot until it is firmly seated. On 4-cylinder engines, refit the spark cover.
Spark plug (HT) lead and distributor cap check
19 The spark plug (HT) leads should be inspected one at a time, to prevent mixing up
1•14 Every 12 000 miles
11.14c . . . then use the end of the special tool to adjust the gap
11.14b . . . or adjusting tool . . .11.14a Measure the spark plug gap with a
feeler gauge . . .
11.2 Tools required for spark plug
removal, gap adjustment and refitting
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
Take extra care to enter the plug threads correctly, as the cylinder head is of aluminium alloy - it’s often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without cross-threading them. To avoid this possibility, fit a short piece of hose over the end of the spark plug. The flexible hose acts as a universal joint, to help align the plug with the plug hole. Should the plug begin to cross­thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage.
the firing order, which is essential for proper engine operation. Gain access to the leads and disconnect them as described above for the spark plug check and renewal. 20 Check inside the boot for corrosion, which will look like a white crusty powder. Clean this off as much as possible; if it is excessive, or if cleaning leaves the metal connector too badly corroded to be fit for further use, the lead must be renewed. Push the lead and boot back onto the end of the spark plug. The boot should fit tightly onto the end of the plug - if it doesn’t, remove the lead and use pliers carefully to crimp the metal connector inside the boot until the fit is snug. 21 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of the lead to remove built-up dirt and grease. Once the lead is clean, check for burns, cracks and other damage. Do not bend the lead sharply, because the conductor might break. 22 Inspect the remaining spark plug (HT) leads, ensuring that each is securely fastened at the distributor cap and spark plug when the check is complete. If any sign of arcing, severe connector corrosion, burns, cracks or other damage is noticed, obtain new spark plug (HT) leads, renewing them as a set. If new spark plug leads are to be fitted, remove and refit them one at a time, to avoid mix-ups in the firing order. 23 Refer to Chapter 5 and remove the distributor cap then thoroughly clean it inside and out with a dry lint-free rag. 24 Examine the HT lead segments inside the cap. If they appear badly burned or pitted renew the cap. Also check the carbon brush in the centre of the cap, ensuring that it is free to move and stands proud of its holder. Make sure that there are no sign of cracks or black “tracking” lines running down the inside of the cap, which will also mean renewal if evident. Refit the cap as described in Chapter 5 on completion.
12 Air cleaner element renewal
1
1 The air cleaner filter element is located in the air cleaner assembly mounted on the left-
hand side of the engine compartment. Undo the retaining screws and/or release the clips, and lift the air cleaner cover, disconnecting the vacuum hose where fitted. Lift the element out of the housing, together with its support frame on V6 engines, and wipe out the housing (see illustrations). Check that no foreign matter is visible, either in the air intake or in the housing. 2 If carrying out a routine service, the element must be renewed regardless of its apparent condition. If you are checking the element for any other reason, inspect its lower surface; if it is oily or very dirty, renew the element. If it is only moderately dusty, it can be re-used by blowing it clean from the upper to the lower surface with compressed air.
Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air! Because it is a pleated-paper
type filter, it cannot be washed or re-oiled. If it cannot be cleaned satisfactorily with compressed air, discard and renew it. Caution: Never drive the vehicle with the air cleaner filter element removed. Excessive engine wear could result, and backfiring could even cause a fire under the bonnet.
3 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that the element and cover are securely seated, so that unfiltered air cannot enter the engine.
13 Electrical system check
1
1 Check the operation of all external lights and indicators (front and rear). 2 Check for satisfactory operation of the instrument panel, its illumination and warning lights, the switches and their function lights.
3 Check the horn(s) for satisfactory operation. 4 Check all other electrical equipment for
satisfactory operation. 5 Check all electrical wiring in the engine compartment for correct routing, and for any signs of physical or heat-damage or chafing.
14 Battery check, maintenance
and charging
2
Warning: Certain precautions must be followed when checking and servicing the
battery. Hydrogen gas, which is highly flammable, is always present in the battery cells, so keep lighted tobacco and all other open flames and sparks away from the battery. The electrolyte inside the battery is actually dilute sulphuric acid, which will cause injury if splashed on your skin or in your eyes. It will also ruin clothes and painted surfaces. When disconnecting the battery, always detach the negative (earth) lead first and connect it last!
Note: Before disconnecting the battery, refer to Section 1 of Chapter 5.
General
1 A routine preventive maintenance programme for the battery in your vehicle is the only way to ensure quick and reliable starts. Before performing any battery maintenance, make sure that you have the proper equipment necessary to work safely around the battery. 2 There are also several precautions that should be taken whenever battery maintenance is performed. Before servicing the battery, always turn the engine and all accessories off, and disconnect the lead from the negative terminal of the battery - see Chapter 5, Section 1. 3 The battery produces hydrogen gas, which is both flammable and explosive. Never create a spark, smoke, or light a match around the battery. Always charge the battery in a well­ventilated area. 4 Electrolyte contains poisonous and corrosive sulphuric acid. Do not allow it to get in your eyes, on your skin, or on your clothes. Never ingest it. Wear protective safety glasses when working near the battery. Keep children away from the battery. 5 Note the external condition of the battery. If the positive terminal and lead clamp on your vehicle’s battery is equipped with a plastic
Every 12 000 miles 1•15
12.1c Lift the element out of the housing,
together with its support frame on V6 engines
12.1b . . . and element on 4-cylinder
engines with single-point fuel injection
12.1a Removing the air cleaner cover . . .
1
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
cover or rubber protector, make sure that it’s not torn or damaged. It should completely cover the terminal. Look for any corroded or loose connections, cracks in the case or cover, or loose hold-down clamps. Check the entire length of each lead for cracks and frayed conductors. 6 If corrosion, which looks like white, fluffy deposits is evident, particularly around the terminals, the battery should be removed for cleaning as described in Chapter 5, Section 2. 7 Clean the lead clamps thoroughly, using a soft wire brush or a terminal cleaner, with a solution of warm water and baking soda. Wash the terminals and the top of the battery case with the same solution, but make sure that the solution doesn’t get into the battery. When cleaning the leads, terminals and battery top, wear safety goggles and rubber gloves, to prevent any solution from coming in contact with your eyes or hands. Wear old clothes too - even when diluted, acid splashed onto clothes will burn holes in them. Wash all cleaned areas with plain water. 8 Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition and the hold-down clamp nuts are tight. If the battery is removed from the tray, make sure no parts remain in the bottom of the tray when the battery is refitted. When refitting the hold-down clamp nuts, do not overtighten them. 9 Information on jump starting can be found at the front of this manual. For more detailed battery checking procedures, refer to the Haynes “Automobile Electrical and Electronic Systems Manual”.
Cleaning
10 Corrosion on the hold-down components, battery case and surrounding areas can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with plain water. 11 Any metal parts of the vehicle damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc­based primer, then painted.
Charging
Warning: When batteries are being charged, hydrogen gas, which is very explosive and
flammable, is produced. Do not smoke, or allow open flames, near a charging or a recently-charged battery. Wear eye protection when near the battery during charging. Also, make sure the charger is unplugged before connecting or disconnecting the battery from the charger.
12 Slow-rate charging is the best way to restore a battery that’s discharged to the point where it will not start the engine. It’s also a good way to maintain the battery charge in a vehicle that’s only driven a few miles between starts. Maintaining the battery charge is particularly important in winter, when the battery must work harder to start the engine, and electrical accessories that drain the battery are in greater use.
13 It’s best to use a one- or two-amp battery charger (sometimes called a “trickle” charger). They are the safest, and put the least strain on the battery. They are also the least expensive. For a faster charge, you can use a higher­amperage charger, but don’t use one rated more than 1/10th the amp/hour rating of the battery (ie no more than 5 amps, typically). Rapid boost charges that claim to restore the power of the battery in one to two hours are hardest on the battery, and can damage batteries not in good condition. This type of charging should only be used in emergency situations. 14 The average time necessary to charge a battery should be listed in the instructions that come with the charger. As a general rule, a trickle charger will charge a battery in 12 to 16 hours.
15 Seat belt check
1
1 Check the seat belts for satisfactory operation and condition. Inspect the webbing for fraying and cuts. Check that they retract smoothly and without binding into their reels. 2 Check that the seat belt mounting bolts are tight, and if necessary tighten them to the specified torque wrench setting (see Chap­ter 11).
16 Auxiliary drivebelts check
and renewal
2
General
1 The number and type of auxiliary drivebelts depends on the engine, year of manufacture, and whether or not the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning. The belt will be either a V-belt or a flat, multi-ribbed (or “polyvee”) type. All the drivebelts are located on the right-hand end of the engine and are driven from the crankshaft pulley. Early “M” series 4-cylinder engines have an additional drivebelt for the power steering pump, which is driven from a pulley on the camshaft.
2 The good condition and proper tension of the auxiliary drivebelts is critical to the operation of the engine. Because of their composition and the high stresses to which they are subjected, drivebelts stretch and deteriorate as they get older. They must, therefore, be regularly inspected.
Check
3 With the engine switched off, open and support the bonnet, then locate the auxiliary drivebelts fitted to your car (Be very careful, and wear protective gloves to minimise the risk of burning your hands on hot components, if the engine has recently been running). For improved access, jack up the front of the vehicle, support it securely on axle stands, remove the roadwheel, then remove the cover from inside the wheelarch. 4 Using an inspection light or a small electric torch, and rotating the engine when necessary with a spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt, check the whole length of the drivebelt for cracks, separation of the rubber, and torn or worn ribs. Also check for fraying and glazing, which gives the drivebelt a shiny appearance. Both sides of the drivebelt should be inspected, and you will have to twist the drivebelt to check the underside. Use your fingers to feel the drivebelt where you can’t see it. If you are in any doubt as to the condition of the drivebelt, renew it.
Drivebelt tension - 4-cylinder engines
Alternator drivebelt (early “M” series engines)
5 Check that it is just possible to twist the
belt by hand through 90º at a point midway between the two pulleys. If adjustment is necessary, proceed as follows. 6 Slacken the two alternator adjustment bracket bolts and the alternator pivot bolt and nut (see illustrations). 7 Lever the alternator away from the engine until the drivebelt is moderately tight. The alternator must only be levered with care at the drive end bracket. Hold the alternator in this position and tighten the adjustment bracket bolts and pivot nut and bolt.
1•16 Every 12 000 miles
16.6b . . . and pivot bolt retaining nut on early “M” series 4-cylinder engines
16.6a Alternator adjustment bracket bolts (arrowed) . . .
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
Power steering pump drivebelt (early “M” series engines)
8 Refer to Chapter 4, Part A or B, and remove
the air cleaner components as necessary, for access. 9 Undo the retaining screw and remove the cover over the camshaft pulley (see illustration). 10 Undo the bolts securing the coolant bypass pipe to the cylinder head and to the main coolant pipe, and move the bypass pipe aside as necessary for access. 11 To check and adjust the belt tension accurately it will be necessary to obtain a socket to fit the power steering pump pulley retaining nut, a socket bar of at least 12 inches in length, and a spring balance capable of recording a minimum of 25 lbs. Make a paint mark or similar on the socket bar, 12 inches up from the centre of the square drive end. 12 Slacken the centre retaining nut on the belt tensioner wheel, then turn the tension adjuster bolt clockwise until the belt is slack. Retighten the tensioner wheel retaining nut to
5.0 Nm. 13 Fit the socket and bar to the pump pulley retaining nut, and position it so that the socket bar is vertical. 14 Attach the spring balance to the socket bar at the point marked 12 inches up from the square drive end. 15 Turn the adjuster bolt anti-clockwise until it takes a pull of 25 lbs to make the pump pulley slip. This procedure is shown (see illustration 16.9), but using the Rover special tool. The socket and bar are a substitute for this tool. 16 Remove the socket, bar and spring balance, then turn the crankshaft until the camshaft pulley has turned through 180º. 17 Check the belt tension again, and re­adjust if necessary. 18 Now turn the tension adjuster bolt anti­clockwise two complete turns. 19 Tighten the tensioner wheel retaining nut fully to the specified torque. 20 Refit the coolant pipe retaining bolts, and the cover over the camshaft pulley.
21 Refit the air cleaner components.
Alternator/power steering pump/air conditioning compressor drivebelt (later “M” series engines)
22 Accurate tensioning of the drivebelt on
cars with this arrangement can only be achieved with the Rover belt tensioning tool, and ideally this operation should be carried out by a Rover dealer. However, if a new belt has been fitted, or if the existing tension is extremely slack, a rough approximation as a temporary measure can be achieved using the following procedure. 23 To adjust the belt tension, slacken the idler pulley retaining nut, then turn the adjuster bolt clockwise to increase the tension or anti­clockwise to decrease it, until it is just possible to twist the belt by hand through 90º at a point midway between the crankshaft and power steering pump pulleys (see illustration).
Every 12 000 miles 1•17
16.23 Drivebelt adjustment on later “M” series 4-cylinder engines
1 Drivebelt 2 Checking gauge - Rover
special tool
3 Idler pulley retaining nut 4 Adjuster bolt
16.9 Power steering pump drivebelt adjustment on early “M” series 4-cylinder engines
1 Camshaft pulley cover
retaining screw 2 Camshaft pulley cover 3 Coolant pipe retaining bolt
4 Coolant pipe 5 Drivebelt 6 Belt tensioner wheel centre
retaining nut
7 Tension adjuster bolt 8 Rover special tool for
checking tension
9 Spring balance
1
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
24 When the tension is correct, tighten the idler pulley retaining nut to the specified torque and lower the car to the ground.
Alternator/power steering pump/air conditioning compressor drivebelt (“T” series engines)
25 “T” series engines are fitted with an
automatic drivebelt tensioner incorporating a wear indicator to show when the belt has stretched too far for the tensioner to maintain correct adjustment (see illustration). 26 To check the tension, observe the wear indicator and make sure that the pointer has not reached the right-hand end of the slot. If it hasn’t, all is well, and no further action is necessary; if it has, renew the belt.
Drivebelt tension - V6 engines
Alternator drivebelt
27 Undo the three bolts and one nut securing
the power steering pump and alternator pulley
covers to the top of the engine. Move the pipes and cables clear and lift off the covers
(see illustration). 28 The belt tension is correct when it is just
possible to deflect the belt by 18 to 22 mm at the mid-point of its run, under moderate finger pressure. If adjustment is required, proceed as follows. 29 Slacken the alternator side pivot bolt and lower mounting nut, then turn the adjusting bolt on the side of the unit as necessary to achieve the correct tension (see
illustrations). 30 Tighten the pivot and mounting nuts and
bolts and refit the covers to the top of the engine.
Power steering pump drivebelt
31 Undo the three bolts and one nut securing
the power steering pump and alternator pulley covers to the top of the engine. Move the pipes and cables clear and lift off the covers.
32 The belt tension is correct when it is just possible to deflect the belt by 18 to 22 mm at the mid-point of its run, under moderate finger pressure. If adjustment is required, proceed as follows. 33 Slacken the pump adjusting nut and mounting bolt, then engage the end of a 1/2 inch square drive socket bar in the hole at the rear of the large lug on top of the pump (see illustrations). Using the bar, move the pump as necessary, until the belt tension is correct, then tighten the adjusting and mounting nut and bolt.
Air conditioning compressor drivebelt
34 The belt tension is correct when it is just
possible to deflect the belt by 7 to 9 mm at a point mid-way between the crankshaft pulley and the tensioner jockey wheel, under
1•18 Every 12 000 miles
16.33b . . . then engage the end of a
socket bar in the lug on top of the pump to
adjust the belt
16.29a . . . slacken the alternator side pivot bolt (arrowed) . . .
16.33a Slacken the V6 engine power steering pump adjusting nut . . .
16.29b . . . and lower mounting nut
(arrowed), then turn the adjusting bolt to
achieve the correct tension
16.27 On V6 engines, remove the pulley covers over the top of the engine . . .
16.25 Drivebelt adjustment details on “T” series engines
1 Wheelarch cover retaining
bolts
2 Wheelarch cover 3 Tensioner wear indicator
4 Releasing the tensioner for
belt renewal
5 Drivebelt
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
moderate finger pressure. If adjustment is required, proceed as follows. 35 Slacken the bolt in the centre of the tensioner jockey wheel, then turn the adjusting bolt, behind the adjuster, to obtain the correct belt tension (see illustration). When the adjustment is correct, tighten the jockey wheel bolt.
Renewal - 4-cylinder engines
36 Open the bonnet, jack up the front of the vehicle (where applicable) and support it securely on an axle stands, remove the roadwheel, then remove the cover from inside the wheelarch. 37 The routing of the drivebelt around the pulleys is dependant on the drivebelt type and whether or not air conditioning is fitted. Before removing the drivebelt, it’s a good idea to sketch the belt run around the pulleys; this will save a lot of frustration when it comes to refitting. 38 If the existing drivebelt is to be refitted, mark it, or note the maker’s markings on its flat surface, so that it can be installed in the same way. 39 To renew the drivebelt, slacken the belt tension fully as described above according to type, noting that where an automatic tensioner is fitted, it is only necessary to turn the tensioner centre bolt clockwise, using a spanner, to release the belt tension. Slip the belt off the pulleys then fit the new belt ensuring that it is routed correctly. With the belt in position, adjust the tension as previously described, or simply release the tensioner bolt. 40 Using a spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft through at least two full turns clockwise to settle the drivebelt on the pulleys, then check that the drivebelt is properly installed. 41 Refit the cover and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground.
Renewal - V6 engines
42 Open the bonnet, jack up the front of the vehicle (where applicable) and support it securely on an axle stands, remove the roadwheel, then remove the cover from inside the wheelarch.
43 If the existing drivebelt is to be refitted, mark it, or note the maker’s markings on its flat surface, so that it can be installed the same way. 44 Depending on which drivebelt is to be renewed, it will probably be necessary to remove one (or both) of the other drivebelts first, to gain access. Note also, that if the power steering pump drivebelt is to be renewed, it will be necessary to support the engine under the sump on a jack (with interposed block of wood) and undo the two bolts on the right-hand engine mounting, to allow the belt to pass through. 45 To renew the drivebelt, slacken the belt tension fully as described above according to type. Slip the belt off the pulleys then fit the new belt. With the belt in position, refit the engine mounting bolts (where applicable) and adjust the tension as previously described. 46 Using a spanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft through at least two full turns clockwise to settle the drivebelt on the pulleys, then check that the drivebelt is properly installed. 47 Refit the cover and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground.
17 Engine compartment wiring
check
2
1 With the vehicle parked on level ground, apply the handbrake firmly and open the bonnet. Using an inspection light or a small electric torch, check all visible wiring within and beneath the engine compartment. 2 What you are looking for is wiring that is obviously damaged by chafing against sharp edges, or against moving suspension/ transmission components and/or the auxiliary drivebelts, by being trapped or crushed between carelessly-refitted components, or melted by being forced into contact with the hot engine castings, coolant pipes, etc. In almost all cases, damage of this sort is caused in the first instance by incorrect routing on reassembly after previous work has been carried out. 3 Depending on the extent of the problem, damaged wiring may sometimes be repaired by rejoining the break or splicing-in a new length of wire, using solder to ensure a good connection, and remaking the insulation with adhesive insulating tape or heat-shrink tubing, as appropriate. If the damage is extensive, given the implications for the vehicle’s future reliability, the best long-term answer may well be to renew that entire section of the loom, however expensive this may appear. 4 When the actual damage has been repaired, ensure that the wiring loom is re­routed correctly, so that it is clear of other components, and not stretched or kinked, and is secured out of harm’s way using the plastic clips, guides and ties provided. 5 Check all electrical connectors, ensuring
that they are clean, securely fastened, and that each is locked by its plastic tabs or wire clip, as appropriate. If any connector shows external signs of corrosion (accumulations of white or green deposits, or streaks of “rust”), or if any is thought to be dirty, it must be unplugged and cleaned using electrical contact cleaner. If the connector pins are severely corroded, the connector must be renewed; note that this may mean the renewal of that entire section of the loom - see your local Rover dealer for details. 6 If the cleaner completely removes the corrosion to leave the connector in a satisfactory condition, it would be wise to pack the connector with a material which will exclude dirt and moisture, preventing the corrosion from occurring again. 7 Check the condition of the battery connections - remake the connections or renew the leads if a fault is found. Use the same techniques to ensure that all earth points in the engine compartment provide good electrical contact through clean, metal­to-metal joints, and that all are securely fastened. 8 Refer to Section 11 for details of spark plug (HT) lead checks.
18 Air conditioning system
check
1
Warning: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. Do not loosen any fittings or remove
any components until after the system has been discharged. Air conditioning refrigerant must be properly discharged into an approved type of container, at a dealer service department or an automotive air conditioning repair facility capable of handling the refrigerant safely. Always wear eye protection when disconnecting air conditioning system fittings.
1 The following maintenance checks should be performed on a regular basis, to ensure that the air conditioner continues to operate at peak efficiency:
(a) Check the auxiliary drivebelt. If it’s worn
or deteriorated, renew it (see Section 16).
(b) Check the system hoses. Look for cracks,
bubbles, hard spots and deterioration. Inspect the hoses and all fittings for oil bubbles and seepage. If there’s any evidence of wear, damage or leaks, renew the hose(s).
(c) Inspect the condenser fins for leaves,
insects and other debris. Use a “fin comb” or compressed air to clean the condenser.
Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
(d) Check that the drain tube from the front
of the evaporator is clear - note that it is normal to have clear fluid (water) dripping
Every 12 000 miles 1•19
16.35 Air conditioning compressor
drivebelt tensioner jockey wheel bolt (A),
and adjusting bolt (B) on V6 engines
1
1380 Rover 800 Series Remake
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