Caution - Before towing the vehicle, be sure to lift the rear wheels off the ground or disconnect the driveline to
avoid damage to the transmission during towing.
Page 5
FOREWARD
This manual has been prepared to provide the customer and the maintenance personnel with information and instructions on the maintenance and repair of the CLARK® Transmission.
Extreme care has been exercised in the design, selection of materials and manufacturing of these units. The slight outlay in personal attention and cost required to provide regular and proper lubrication, inspection at stated intervals, and
such adjustments as may be indicated will be reimbursed many times in low cost operation and trouble free service.
In order to become familiar with the various parts of the transmission, its principle of operation, troubleshooting and
adjustments, it is urged that the service person study the instructions in this manual carefully and use it as a reference
when performing maintenance and repair operations.
Whenever repair or replacement of components parts is required, only Clark-approved parts as listed in the applicable
parts manual should be used. Use of “will-fit” or non-approved parts may endanger proper operation and performance
of the equipment. The Clark Equipment Company does not warrant repair or replacement parts, nor failures resulting
from the use thereof, which are not supplied by or approved by the Clark Equipment Company.
IMPORTANT: Always furnish the Distributor with the transmission serial and model number when ordering parts.
Page 6
CLARK
A
Page 7
THE CLARK SYNCHRONIZER
AND HOW IT WORKS FOR YOU
The Clark split-pin synchronizer prevents the clashing of the gears and increase the speed of shifting.
In a conventional transmission which does not have synchronizers the absence of gear clashing is dependent entirely
on the skill of the truck driver. By double-clutching and split second timing of engine speeds with the gear shifting
movement, a driver can synchronize the speeds of the engaging gears and thereby prevent the damage to gears by
clashing when a fast shift. The splint-pin sychronzier performs the same function with or without the “double-clutching”
operating even though the driver does not accurately time his gear shifting movements. It also mechanically prevents
the driver from completing the shift to the point of gear engagement until the engaging gears have reached the same or
synchronous speeds. This is known as the blocking action of the synchronizer and it is this action that makes the operation of shifting a transmission having synchronizers different from one which does not have synchronizers.
Upon shifting gears in these synchronized transmissions the first part of the gear shift lever movement brings the
blockers into contact. The blockers momentarily prevent further movement of the shift lever and the pressure exerted
by the driver to complete the movement, is transferred by the blockers to the synchronizer providing the force necessary to synchronize the gears being engaged. When the engaging gears have reached the same speed, the blockers
automatically disengage, permitting the gear shift lever movement to be completed. Therefore, to properly shift a synchronized transmission a steady and continuous pressure must be applied by the driver to the shift lever until the shift
is completed. Under normal conditions this action is instantaneous.
Sometimes difficulty is experienced in shifting a synchronizer when the vehicle is standing still. This is caused by the
fact that the disengagement of the blockers requires relative rotation and with the vehicle at rest and with the engine
clutch released, there may be at times, no relative rotation of the engaging gears. Under these conditions, the same continuous pressure should be applied to the shift lever and at the same time, the clutch should be engaged slightly. This
will give sufficient rotation to unblock the synchronizer and allow the shift to be completed without difficulty.
B
Page 8
RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTS FOR CLARK
MANUALLY SHIFTED TRANSMISSIONS
*Mil-L-2105C Extreme Pressure Lubricant (or API classification
GL-5) of the SAE viscosity recommended in the chart at the right
is preferred. All lubricants should be backed by the reputation of
a well-know supplier. It is important to specify EP lubricants of
the MIL-L-2105C type only, or of a API classification GL-5.
*Do not use extreme pressure lubricants other than MIL-L2105C or of a API classification GL-5.
Many EP lubricants contain highly-active chemical compounds
that have been formulated to perform satisfactorily in specific
types of applications. Severe corrosion, residual deposits, and
inadequate lubrication may result from improper application. Use
of EP lubricants other that MIL-L-2105C or of a API classification
GL-5 may result in failure and/or impaired operation.
DRAINING ECONOMY - The object in draining the transmission
oil periodically is to eliminate possible bearing surface abrasion
and attendant wear. Minute particles of metal, the product of normal wear in service, are deposited in and circulate with the transmission oil. The oil changes chemically, due to its repeated
heating and cooling, also the terrific churning it undergoes in the
presence of air. It is desirable to drain out this used oil after the
first 1,000 miles (1609,0 Km) of service (regardless of type of
service). Subsequent drains should be made every 24,000 miles
(38616,0 Km) or six (6) months (whichever comes first) for
highway service, and every 8,000 to 10,000 miles [12872,016090,0 Km] or six (6) months (whichever comes first) “on-off”
highway and “pick-up and delivery” types of service. Do this only when the transmission is thoroughly warm.
FLUSHING - After draining, flushing is desirable. Replace the drain plug and fill the transmission to the proper level with
a light flushing oil. Drive the transmission for a short period at fast idle in such a manner that the gears in the transmission are rotating without load. This washes out the old oil clinging to the interior of the gear case, covers and shifter
rails. BE SURE TO DRAIN OUT ALL of the flushing oil before attempting to refill with new oil. This flushing procedure is
most important after first drain.
REFILL - First, removal all dirt around the filler plug, Then refill with new oil of a grade recommended for the existing
season and prevailing service. Fill to the bottom of the level testing plug positioned on the side of the transmission. DO
NOT OVERFILL, as the excess quantity will serve no useful purpose. If the oil level is too high, it will cause excessive oil
churning and high oil temperature and possible leakage.
INSPECTION - Oil level inspection should be made every 6,000 miles [9654,0 Km] which usually coincides with the
vehicle manufacturers chassis lube procedure. Always clean around filler plug before inspection. Add sufficient oil to
maintain correct level.
C
Page 9
CLARK
D
Page 10
280VHD SERIES TRANSMISSION
ITEMDESCRIPTIONQTY.
1Shift Rod Cover Screw Lockwasher.......................................14
2Shift Rod Cover Screw Lockwasher.......................................14
The instructions contained herein cover the disassembly
and reassembly of the transmission in a sequence that
would normally be followed after the unit has been
removed from the machine and is to be completely overhauled.
DISASSEMBLY OF THE TRANSMISSION:
Figure 1 - Remove remote control or shift tower from
control cover. Remove control cover capscrew and lockwashers
CAUTION: Cleanliness is of extreme importance and an
absolute must in the repair and overhaul of this unit.
Before attempting any repairs, the exterior of the unit
must be thoroughly cleaned to prevent the possibility of
dirt and foreign matter entering the mechanism
Figure 3 - Lock transmission in two gears and remove
brake drum or universal joint nut. Remove mainshaft rear
bearing cap bolts and washers and stud nuts and washers.
Figure 2 - Remove control cover assembly from transmission.
Figure 4 - Remove rear mainshaft bearing cap.
1
Page 17
Figure 5 - Tap on input drive gear. This will move mainshaft rear bearing back far enough to be able to pry rear
bearing outer race out of transmission case.
Figure 8 - Remove main drive gear and bearing assembly.
Figure 6 - Remove main drive gear (input shaft) bearing
cap bolts and washers.
Figure 7 - Remove main drive gear bearing cap and
shims.
Figure 9 - Remove mainshaft assembly from transmission case.
Figure 10 - Remove reverse idler shaft lockscrew and
lock.
2
Page 18
Figure 11 - Using a suitable puller remove reverse idler
shaft.
Figure 14 - Remove countershaft rear bearing cap and
bearing spacer ring.
Figure 15 - Pry countershaft assembly to the rear. NOTE:
Rear bearing rollers are loose in the bearing cage. Use
caution as not to lose rollers.
Figure 16 - Countershaft rear bearing roller and cage
removed.
3
Page 19
Figure 17 - Remove countershaft assembly from case.
Figure 18 - Tap countershaft rear bearing out race from
case.
Figure 20 - Remove outer race as shown.
Figure 21 - If countershaft drive gear or 4th gear is to be
replaced, remove drive gear retainer ring. Press drive
gear and 4th gear from countershaft. Press 4th gear on
shaft with long hub of gear toward pilot end of countershaft. Press drive gear on shaft with long hub of gear
away from pilot end of countershaft. Install drive gear
retainer ring.
MAINSHAFT DISASSEMBLY
Figure 19 - If countershaft rear bearing is being replaced,
remove outer race retainer ring.
Figure 22 - Remove 4th & 5th synchronizer and synchronizer cups from mainshaft.
4
Page 20
Figure 23 - Remove shift hub bearing race and bearing.
Figure 50 - Remove reverse latch plunger spring retain-
ing plug.
Figure 51 - Remove reverse latch plunger spring and
plunger.
Figure 49 -Remove 1st & Reverse rocker arm.
Figure 52 - If fork bushings are worn, secure fork in a
vise equipped with soft jaws and remove worn bushings
with a drift. Install new bushings in fork. Turn fork over
on anvil of vise and secure bushing in fork using a prick
punch and upsetting bushing metal on outside of fork.
9
Page 25
Figure 53 - Install reverse latch plunger, spring and
retaining plug. Tighten plug securely.
Figure 54 - Position 1st & Reverse rocker arm on pivot
pin as shown.
Figure 63 - Slightly raise rear of 4th & 5th shift rail and
align 2nd interlock tapered pin with cross hole in 4th &
5th shift rail.
Figure 64 - Note position of tapered interlock pins and
shift rails.
11
Page 27
Figure 65 - Install 1st & Reverse shift fork and rail
assembly on poppet ball in a neutral position. Align 1st
and Reverse rocker arm in notch at rear of rail as shown.
Figure 66 - Position rear rail support.
Figure 68 - Install interlock tapered pin supports. Tap 4th
& 5th shift fork to the rear (4th speed position).
Figure 69 - Position front rail support and install capscrews and washers.
Figure 67 -Install rail support capscrews and washers.
Tighten capscrews slightly.
Figure 70 -Tighten front and rear support capscrews 20
to 25 ft. lbs. torque. Tap 4th & 5th shift fork and rail
assembly forward to a neutral position.
12
Page 28
Figure 71 - With new gasket in position and with transmission in neutral, position control cover over gears
aligning shift forks in shift cover with gear shift hubs. If
control cover is in neutral and transmission is in neutral,
transmission drive gear should turn without output shaft
turning.
Figure 72 - Install center rear capscrew first and tighten
20 to 25 ft. lbs. torque [27,2 - 33,8 N,m]. Install center
front screw second and tighten 20 to 25 ft. lbs. torque
[27,2 - 33,8 N,m]. Tighten remaining capscrews 20 to 25
ft. lbs. torque [27,2 - 33,8 N,m].
Figure 74 - Remove front and rear rail supports.
Figure 75 - Remove the 4th & 5th shift fork and rail
assembly
Figure 73 -Remove front and rear rail support capscrews.
Figure 76 - Remove 2nd & 3rd shift fork and rail assembly. CAUTION: Do not lose interlock cross pin.
Figure 82 - Remove mesh lock spring and lock ball, 3
each. Remove crossover interlock balls, 4 each.
14
Page 30
Figure 83 - Remove reverse latch plunger, pin and
spring.
Figure 84 - Install reverse latch plunger, spring, pin and
plunger spring plug.
Figure 85-A
Figure 86 - Position the mesh lock spring and ball, 3
each, in spring pockets. (See cross section illustration
Figure 85-A).
Figure 85 -Position crossover interlock balls in cover
cross bores. 2 balls in cover cross bore between 1st &
Reverse rail groove, and 2nd & 3rd rail groove and 2 balls
in cover cross bore between 2nd & 3rd rail groove, 4th &
5th rail groove. (See cross section of Figure 85-A).
Figure 87 - Position 1st & Reverse rocker arm on pivot
pin.
15
Page 31
Figure 88 - Install 1st & Reverse shift fork and rail
assembly in control housing. Install shift rail lock pin to
position rail in control housing.
Figure 89 - Install 1st & Reverse shift lug, rocker lug,
shift rail and spacers in rail groove over mesh lock balls
and spring. NOTE: Position widest spacer between shift
lug and front support. The narrower spacer between the
shift lug and center support.
Figure 91 - Position the 4th & 5th shift rail and fork
assembly in rail groove over mesh lock ball and spring.
Figure 92 - Position front rail support over shift rails and
install capscrews. Position rear support over rails and
install capscrews.
Figure 90 -Install interlock cross pin in 2nd & 3rd shift
rail. Position 2nd & 3rd shift rail and fork assembly in rail
groove over mesh lock balls and spring. Make certain
cross pin is in position in rail. (See Figure 85-A).
Figure 93 - Tighten support capscrews 20 to 25 ft. lbs.
torque [27,2 - 33,8 N,m].
Test Cover for Double Shift.
Pry 4th & 5th shift fork and rail out of neutral position.
Try to pry 1st & Reverse shift fork and rail out of neutral
position. 1st & Reverse fork should NOT shift. If it does,
interlock cross pin or interlock cross over balls were NOT
assembled correctly. Disassemble cover and correct
cross over. (See Figure 85-A). NOTE: Install control cover
capscrews in sequence explained in Figure 72.
16
Page 32
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
CLEANING
Cleaning all parts thoroughly using solvent type cleaning
fluid. It is recommended that parts be immersed in cleaning fluid and moved up and down slowly until all old
lubricant and foreign material is dissolved and parts are
thoroughly cleaned.
CAUTION: Care should be exercised to avoid skin rashes,
fire hazards, and inhalation of vapors when using solvent
type cleaners.
Housings:
Clean interior and exterior of housings, bearing caps, etc.
thoroughly. Cast parts may be cleaned in hot solution
tanks with mild alkali solutions providing these parts do
not have ground or polished surfaces. Parts should
remain in solution long enough to be thoroughly cleaned
and heated. This will aid the evaporation of the cleaning
solution and rinse water. Parts cleaned in solution tanks
must be thoroughly rinsed with clean water to remove all
traces of alkali. Cast parts may also be cleaned with
steam cleaner.
Housing, Covers, Etc.:
Inspect housings, covers, and bearing caps to be certain
they are thoroughly cleaned and that mating surfaces,
bearing bores, etc., are free from nicks or burrs. Check all
parts carefully for evidence of cracks or condition which
would cause subsequent oil leaks or failures.
Bearings:
Carefully inspect all rollers and balls for wear, chipping or
nicks to determine if any abnormal conditions exist.
Causes of abnormal wear must be corrected before
transmission is returned to service. Discard bearings.
Oil Seals, Gaskets, Etc.:
Replacement of spring load oil seals. “O”- rings, metal
sealing rings, gaskets and snap rings is more economical
when unit is disassembled than premature overhaul to
replace these parts at a future time. Further, loss of lubricant through a worn seal may result in failure of other
more expensive parts of the assembly. Sealing members
should be handled carefully, particularly when being
installed. Cutting, scratching, or curling under of lip of
seal seriously impairs its efficiency.
CAUTION: Care should be exercised to avoid inhalation of
vapors and skin rashes when using alkali cleaners.
All parts cleaned must be thoroughly dried immediately
by using moisture-free compressed air or soft, lintless
absorbent wiping rages free of abrasive materials such as
metal filings, contaminated oil or lapping compound.
INSPECTION
The importance of careful and thorough inspection of all
parts cannot be overstressed. Replacement of all parts
showing indication of wear or stress will eliminate costly
and avoidable failures at a later date.
Gears and Shafts:
If magno-flux process is available, use process to check
parts. Examine teeth on all gears carefully for wear, pitting, chipping, nicks, cracks, or scores. If gear teeth
show spots where case hardening is worn through or
cracked, replace with new gear. Small nicks may be
removed with suitable hone. Inspect shafts to make certain they are not sprung, bent, or splines twisted, and that
shaft are true.
LUBRICATE ALL PART THOROUGHLY BEFORE REASSEMBLY.
MAIN DRIVE GEAR REASSEMBLY
Figure 94 - Press new taper bearing on drive gear. Turn
gear over. Using a high quality heavy grease, coat roller
bearing surface. Place rollers in grease as shown.
17
Page 33
Figure 95 - Install roller bearing washer and retainer ring.
ring on mainshaft. Install sliding gear on shaft with shift
fork groove as shown.
Figure 98 - Turn shaft over. Install 2nd speed locating
washers and 2nd speed gear on shaft. Note clutching
teeth on gear are up.
Figure 99 - Install 2nd speed gear retainer ring.
Figure 97 -Install mainshaft rear bearing with large diam-
eter of taper toward sliding gear.
Figure 100 - Position 2nd & 3rd shift hub sleeve on
mainshaft.
18
Page 34
Figure 101 - Install shift hub sleeve retainer ring
Figure 104 - Install 3rd gear retainer ring.
Figure 102 - Install 2nd & 3rd synchronizer and synchro-
nizer cup on shift hub sleeve.
Figure 103 -Position 3rd gear and locating washer on
shaft.
Figure 105 - Install 4th speed gear on shaft with clutching teeth up. Install 4th & 5th shift hub sleeve with chamfer down.
Figure 106 - Position 4th & 5th shift hub bearing and
bearing race on mainshaft.
19
Page 35
Figure 107 - Install the 4th & 5th speed synchronizer and
synchronizer cups on shift hub sleeve.
COUNTERSHAFT FRONT BEARING REPLACEMENT
Figure 108 - If countershaft front bearing is to be
replaced, remove clutch housing and drive front bearing
from transmission case. Apply a light coat of Loctite 510
on the outer diameter of the new bearing. Install in transmission case as shown with end of bearing .001 to .007
below the front surface of case.
Figure 110 - Insert idler shaft through case and idler
gear. NOTE: Idler shaft lock groove must line up with lock
bolt hole. Drive shaft into position. Install shaft lock and
bolt. Tighten bolt 20 to 25 lb. ft. torque [27,2 - 33,8 N.m].
Figure 111 - Coat countershaft pilot bearing needle rollers with heavy grease to hold in place until countershaft
is installed.
Figure 109 -Turn transmission case over. Use a heavy
grease to hold the reverse idler gear thrust washers in
place on idler shaft boss. Insert the 2 idler spigot bearings in the idler gear. Position idler gear between thrust
washers. NOTE: Small end of idler gear to be up or
toward the rear of the transmission case.
Figure 112 - Position the countershaft rear bearing inner
race in the roller cage.
20
Page 36
Figure 113 - A rubber band was used to hold the rollers
in place in the bearing cage.
Figure 114 - Shows one bearing with all rollers held in
place with a rubber band. The other bearing with the rubber band removed and rollers held in place by the outer
race. Use caution when removing bearing as not to allow
the rollers to slip out of cage and race
Figure 116 - Tap countershaft rear bearing inner race on
countershaft until the outer race enters the case bore.
Figure 117 - Use a driver that will fit over the end of the
countershaft but not larger than the bearing inner race.
Tap the outer race in the bearing bore and drive the inner
race on the countershaft.
Figure 115 -Position countershaft in case as shown.
Support each side of the drive gear with a ¼” flat bar to
prevent damage to the countershaft pilot bearing when
installing the countershaft rear bearing. Do not disrupt
countershaft pilot bearing needles.
Figure 118 - Install the countershaft rear bearing retainer
ring. Remove the flat bars supporting the countershaft
drive gear.
21
Page 37
Figure 119 - Position rear bearing spacer ring on bearing. With new gasket in place, install rear bearing cap.
Figure 120 - Install rear bearing capscrews and washers.
Tighten 20 to 25 lb. ft. torque[27,2 - 33,8N.m].
Figure 122 - Install mainshaft rear bearing cup
Figure 123 - Position new gasket on mainshaft rear bear-
ing cap. Install bearing cap on studs. Install stud nut
lockwashers and stud nuts. Tighten stud nuts 60 to 70 lb.
ft. torque [81,4 - 94,9 N.m].
MAINSHAFT TAPER BEARING ADJUSTMENT
Figure 121 -Install mainshaft assembly in transmission
case. Use caution as not to damage gear teeth or bearings.
The mainshaft rear taper bearing and main drive gear
taper bearing must have a .002 to .008 [0,060,20] end
play after assembly of transmission is complete.
The mainshaft rear taper bearing and bearing cup are not
adjustable.
The main drive gear taper bearing cup is located in the
main drive gear bearing cap. The taper bearing end play
is regulated by a shim pack between the bearing cap and
transmission housing.
The following procedure is recommended to achieve a
proper taper bearing end play.
22
Page 38
Figure 124 - With main drive gear needle rollers in place
and greased, position main drive gear in housing bore.
Align clutching teeth on main drive gear with teeth in 5th
speed synchronizer cup.
Figure 125 - Install new oil seal with lip of seal up in main
drive gear bearing cap.
Figure 127 - Install 2 capscrews 180° apart and torque
screws to 15 inch lbs.
Figure 128 - Turn main drive gear and mainshaft by hand
back and forth to sear taper bearings.
Figure 126 -Position main drive gear bearing cap on
main drive gear. Lube oil groove in cap must be at the
top.
Figure 129 - Recheck bearing capscrews and tighten to
30 inch lbs. torque.
23
Page 39
Figure 130 - Using a taper gauge at a capscrew, as
shown, record gap between bearing cap and housing.
Example: .035 [0,88 mm].
Figure 132 - Using example .035 - .037 - average
.036+.016 .052 shim pack, position shim pack and main
drive gear bearing cap on main drive gear. Lube oil
groove in bearing cap must be at the top.
Figure 133 - Install capscrews and tighten 15 to 20 lb. ft.
torque [20,4 - 27,1 N,m].
Figure 131 - Use taper gauge at other capscrew as
shown. Record gap. Example: .037 [0,93 mm] average
between one capscrew and the other would be .036 [0,91
mm]. Using .036 as the average gap between the bearing
cap and housing, add .016 [0,40 mm]. Example: .036 +
.016 will give a shim pack of .052 [1,32 mm]. This shim
pack example would give a mainshaft end play of .002 to
.008 [0,051 -0.203 mm].
Figure 134 - Place transmission in vertical position, with
main drive gear pointing down. Install transmission output flange and torque the nut. Roll main drive gear and
mainshaft to seat front rear taper bearings. Position a dial
indicator as shown. Pry on output flange to get mainshaft
and play. End play must be between .002 - .008 [0,06 0,20]. Add shims for more end play or remove shims for
less end play. NOTE: each time a change is made,
retorque stud nuts and roll mainshaft. Apply Loctite 510
to both sides of each shim during final assembly.
24
Page 40
TROUBLESHOOTER’S TRANSMISSION CHECKLIST
1. NOISE ARISING IN NEUTRAL
Misalignment of transmission
Worn transmission bearings
Scuffed gear tooth contact surfaces on gears
Worn mainshaft gear bushings
Worn or rough reverse idler gear
Sprung or work countershaft
Excessive backlash in constant mesh gear
Work mainshaft pilot bearing
Incorrect lubricant
Low lubricant level
Noisy main drive gear bearing
2. NOISE ARISING IN GEAR
Worn or rough mainshaft rear bearing
Excessive end play on mainshaft gears
Noisy speedometer gears
(See Conditions under #1)
Improperly operating clutch (Does not release
properly
Shift hubs tight on Shift hub sleeve splines
Damaged pointing on clutching teeth
Misaligned mainshaft
Damaged or worn synchronizer assembly
Improper linkage adjustment
Worn or sprung shift fork
6. SLIPPING OUT OF DIRECT
Misaligned of transmission on engine
Worn drive gear teeth
Worn clutching teeth on shift hub or drive gear
Insufficient tension on detent balls
Improper linkage adjustment
Excessive shift lever whip action
Worn torque lock on shift hub sleeve
7. SLIPPING OUT OF OTHER SPEEDS
Excessive clearance between mainshaft gear and
mainshaft, or worn needle bearings
Excessive end play of mainshaft gear on mainshaft
Worn clutching teeth
Weak detent ball springs
Improper linkage adjustment
Worn torque lock on shift hub sleeve.
8. LOSS OF LUBRICANT
Lubricant level too high
Damaged gaskets
Damaged or worn oil seals
Cracked transmission housing
Use of incorrect lubricant
Oil return holes under bearing caps plugged
9. BEARING FAILURES
Use of incorrect lubricants
Improper bearing adjustment
Improper reassembly in unit overhaul
Lack of cleanliness in unit overhaul
Foreign particles in transmission
Copyright Eaton Corporation, 2012.
Eaton hereby grant their customers,
vendors, or distributors permission
to freely copy, reproduce and/or
distribute this document in printed
format. It may be copied only in
its entirety without any changes or
modifications. THIS INFORMATION
IS NOT INTENDED FOR SALE OR
RESALE, AND THIS NOTICE MUST
REMAIN ON ALL COPIES.
Note: Features and specifications
listed in this document are subject to
change without notice and represent
the maximum capabilities of the
software and products with all options
installed. Although every attempt has
been made to ensure the accuracy of
information contained within, Eaton
makes no representation about the
completeness, correctness or accuracy
and assumes no responsibility for
any errors or omissions. Features and
functionality may vary depending on
selected options.
For spec’ing or service assistance,
call 1-800-826-HELP (4357) or visit
www.eaton.com/roadranger.
In Mexico, call 001-800-826-4357.
Roadranger: Eaton and trusted partners
providing the best products and services in the
industry, ensuring more time on the road.
Eaton Corporation
Vehicle Group
P.O. Box 4013
Kalamazoo, MI 49003 USA
800-826-HELP (4357)
www.eaton.com/roadranger
Printed in USA
Page 42
For parts or service call us
Pro Gear & Transmission, Inc.
1 (877) 776-4600
(407) 872-1901
parts@eprogear.com
906 W. Gore St.
Orlando, FL 32805
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