Volkswagen Sharan User Manual

5 (1)


Tips and Maintenance


Petrol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Diesel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2 Bonnet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 3 Engine compartment . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Engine oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Coolant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Windscreen washer system . . . . . 35 Power assisted steering . . . . . . . . . . 7 Windscreen wiper blades . . . . . . . 36 Electronic Differential Lock (EDL) . . 8 Brake fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Electronic Stabilisation Programme 9 Battery and additional battery . . . . 38 Four-wheel drive (4MOTION) . . . . 10 Wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43

The first 1500 km –


Accessories, modifications



and renewal of parts


and afterwards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .


Exhaust emission


Installing radio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .



Mobile telephones and


control system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .



Driving economically and with


two-way radios . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .





respect for the environment . . . . .




Driving abroad



First aid kit, Warning triangle


Trailer towing


Vehicle tools, Tow hook,






Spare wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .


Breakdown set




Care of vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .


Changing wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .


Care of vehicle exterior . . . . . . . . .


Sliding/tilting roof . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .


Care of the vehicle interior . . . . . . .


Fuses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .


Cleaning the engine compartment


Replacing bulbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .




Emergency starting . . . . . . . . . . . . .



Tow starting/towing


Safety notes for working in the



Lifting vehicle


engine compartment . . . . . . . . . . .




The fuel used by your vehicle can be found listed in Booklet 3.3 ”Technical Data” and on the inside of the tank flap.

General notes

lUnleaded petrol must comply with DIN EN1) 228.

lIf in an emergency the octane rating of the available petrol is lower than that required by the engine, only drive with medium engine speeds and low engine loading. High engine loading with full throttle or high revs can cause engine damage. Fill tank with petrol of the correct rating as soon as possible.

lFuel with a higher octane rating than that required by the engine can be used without limitation. There are however no advantages regarding output and consumption.

`On vehicles with catalytic converter only unleaded petrol may

be used.

`Even one tankful of leaded petrol will detract from the effi-

ciency of the catalytic converter.

Please also refer to the notes in Booklet 3.1.1, ”Filling up”.

1) Euro-Norm

Petrol additives

The quality of the fuel has a decisive influence upon the running behaviour, performance and service life of the engine. The additives which are mixed into the petrol are of particular significance. It is therefore advisable only to use good quality petrol containing additives.

If such fuel is not available, or if engine troubles such as starting difficulties, stalling during idling, vibration and loss of power occur, the appropriate additives should be mixed with the petrol when filling the tank. At temperatures between about 0 and 15 degrees C, these additives prevent possible icing up of the carburettor, have an anti-cor- rosion effect, clean the fuel system and prevent deposits building up in the engine.

Not at all petrol additives available in accessory outlets have shown themselves to be effective. Therefore tested additives sold under the name ”Volkswagen/Audi Genuine petrol additives for petrol engines” are available from Volkswagen dealers in Germany and in many export countries.

The Volkswagen dealers are also informed concerning the use of additives, and they know what to do in cases where deposits have already built up.

Other petrol additives should not be mixed with the petrol.







Diesel fuel

Diesel fuel must correspond to DIN EN1) 590.

CN2) not lower than 51.

RME fuel (diester)

corresponding to DIN 51 606.

Vehicles with diesel engines can also run on RME fuel (Rapeseed Methyl Ester).

Please use only RME fuel when filling up with diester!

Please ask your Volkswagen dealer or an automobile club where diester is available.

Please also refer to the notes in Booklet 3.1, ”Filling up”.


lPerformance figures may be slightly lower.

lFuel consumption may be slightly higher.

lThe fuel filter could block up if fuel is used that deviates from the norm.

lRME can be used in winter to temperatures down to approx. –10°C.

lWe recommend that diesel fuel be

tanked at ambient temperatures of under

–10o C.

Driving in winter

When using summer Diesel trouble may be experienced at temperatures below 0oC because the fuel thickens due to wax separation.

For this reason, ”winter Diesel”, which is more resistant to cold, is sold during the winter in Germany.

In countries with different climatic conditions the Diesel fuels offered have a different temperature characteristic. Check with Volkswagen dealers or filling stations in the country concerned regarding the characteristics of Diesel fuels.

The vehicle is fitted with a filter preheater. This will ensure that the fuel system remains operational down to approximately

–24oC provided that the winter Diesel used is cold resistant down to –15oC.

If, at temperatures below –24oC, the fuel is waxed to such an extent that the engine will not start it is sufficient to place the vehicle in a warm room for a while.

Fuel additives (anti-waxing agents), petrol and similar agents may not be mixed into the diesel fuel.


2)Cetane Number - Measurement of diesel fuel ignitability.






Supplementary heating unit*

(TDI engines only)

The supplementary heating unit increases the output of the heating system when the engine is running and the ambient temperature is low. The unit switches itself on and off automatically.

The exhaust gases which are produced as a result are guided out through an exhaust pipe which is fitted under the vehicle.

Smoke could develop if the percentage share of RME in the mix is higher than 50 %, during short journeys or at low ambient temperatures.

l Every time the engine is switched off the blower will continue to run for a while to cool the heater down quicker. When filling tank it is not necessary to wait to end of run–on.







General notes

lBrake lining wear depends to a large extent on the operating conditions and style of driving. On vehicles which are used mainly in town traffic and stop/start conditions or are driven hard it may be particularly necessary to have the thickness of the brake linings checked in between the intervals given in the Service Schedule.

lChange down in good time when driving downhill, in order to make use of the engine braking effect. This relieves strain on the brake system. If additional braking power is required, do not apply the brakes continuously, apply and release them alternately.


l New brake linings must be run in and thus do not have the optimum friction properties during the first 200 km. The slightly reduced braking effect can be compensated for by more pressure on the brake pedal. This also applies when new linings have been fitted.

What can have a negative effect on the brakes?

Wetness or grit


lUnder certain conditions e.g. after driving through water, heavy rain falls or after the vehicle has been washed, the brakes could set in later than normal due to damp, or in winter– frozen, brake discs and linings – the brakes must first be dried through careful braking.

lFull braking power might also set in later than normal even when driving on gritted roads if you have not braked for some time – the layer of salt on the brake discs and brake linings must first be worn down whilst braking.

Please also read the warning notes on the next page.





Volkswagen Sharan User Manual


Overheating of the brakes


lNever let the brakes ”rub”, by pressing the pedal too lightly when you do not really need to brake. This causes the brakes to overheat, leads to longer braking distances and to a higher level of wear.

lBefore starting on a long stretch of road in a very hilly area, please reduce your speed, change to a lower gear (manual gearbox) or choose a lower position (automatic gearbox). In this way you will use the braking power of the engine and relieve pressure on the brakes.

lIf a front spoiler, full size wheel trims etc., is retrofitted, it is necessary to ensure that the flow of air to the front brakes is not restricted – otherwise the brakes can overheat.

Brake servo


The servo is operated by vacuum which is only generated when engine is running. For this reason the vehicle should not be allowed to roll with the engine switched off.

When the brake servo is not working because, for example, the vehicle is being towed or because a defect has occurred on the brake servo itself, the brake pedal must be pressed considerably harder to compensate for the absence of servo assistance.

Anti-locking brake system*

The ABS plays a major part in increasing the active safety of the vehicle. The big advantage when compared with a conventional brake system is that even when braking hard on a slippery road surface the best possible steerability is retained for the road condition because the wheels do not lock.

However, one must not expect the ABS system to shorten the braking distance under all conditions. When driving on gravel or on fresh snow covering a slippery surface, i.e. when one should be driving very slowly and carefully, the stopping distance may even be slightly longer.

Modifications to the vehicle (e.g. to the engine, brakes system, running gear or a different wheel/tyre combination) can affect the functioning of the ABS, EDL, ESP and TCS.

Please refer therefore to the notes on page 49.






How the ABS system works

An automatic check is made when a speed of approx. 7 km/h is reached. When this happens a pumping noise can be heard.

When the turning speed of a wheel reaches a level which is too low for the vehicle speed and it tends to lock, the brake pressure to this wheel is reduced. On the front axle the brake pressure is regulated for each wheel individually, whereas on the rear axle, the pressure is regulated for both wheels at the same time. As a result the braking effect is the same for both rear wheels and the driving stability is retained as far as possible.

This regulating process makes itself known by movement of the brake pedal and is accompanied by noises.

This is done deliberately as a warning to the driver that a wheel or the wheels are in the locking range. So that the ABS can regulate effectively in this range the brake pedal must remain depressed – on no account should it be pumped!


However the ABS system cannot overcome the physical limits. This must be borne in mind particularly on slippery or wet roads. When the ABS comes into the control range the speed must immediately be adapted to the road and traffic conditions. The increased amount of safety available must not tempt one into taking risks.

Power assisted steering*

You should never leave the steering wheel at full lock for longer than 15 seconds when the engine is running. The hydraulic oil will be heated to a high temperature by the PAS pump as a result of the extended period of steering lock.

The power assisted steering system could be damaged as a result.

Furthermore, the system will make noises every time a full lock is engaged whilst the vehicle is stationary as the PAS pump is placed under high pressure as a result. The idling speed of the engine will also dip briefly as a result.






Electronic Differential Lock (EDL)*

Vehicles with anti-lock brakes (ABS)* can also be equipped with an electronic differential lock.

The EDL makes it much easier, or even possible, to pull away, accelerate and climb steep gradients under unfavourable conditions.

The EDL works fully automatically – the driver does not need to do anything at all.

It uses the ABS sensors to monitor the speed of the drive wheels.

Up to a speed of about 80 km/h (50 mph), a difference in speed of the drive wheels of approximately 100 rpm caused by a slippery road surface on one side is balanced out by slowing down the wheel which is slipping and thereby applying more driving force to the other drive wheel through the differential.

This control procedure can be noticed through the sound it makes.


When accelerating on a slippery road surface, e.g. on ice or snow, use the accelerator pedal carefully. The wheels can spin, even with EDL, and thus impair driving stability.

To ensure that the brake disc of the braked wheel does not overheat, the EDL will automatically switch itself off if excessive demands are placed on it. The vehicle remains operational and has the same characteristics as a vehicle without EDL. For this reason, the switching off of the EDL is not indicated.

As soon as the brakes have cooled off, the EDL will switch itself back on again.

If the ABS warning lamp lights up there may be a fault present in the EDL. Take the vehicle to a qualified dealership as soon as possible!


The style of driving must always be adapted to suit road surface and traffic conditions. The increased safety offered by the EDL should not encourage one to take unnecessary risks.

Modifications to the vehicle (e.g. to the engine, brakes system, running gear or a different wheel/tyre combination) can affect the functioning of the ABS, EDL, ESP and TCS.

Please refer therefore to the notes on page 49.






Electronic Stabilisation Programme*

The electronic stabilisation programme* (ESP) contains ABS, EDL and TCS.

How the ESP system works

The ESP reduces the risk of spinning by braking individual wheels.

In assessing the angle of the front wheels and the speed of the vehicle, the driver’s intended direction of travel is determined and then compared with the actual movement of the vehicle. If any deviations are calculated, e.g. the vehicle is starting to skid, the ESP will automatically brake the appropriate wheel.

The vehicle will be stabilised again through the braking forces acting on the wheel. If the vehicle is oversteering (rear end tends to break away) the brake will primarily be applied to the front outside wheel, and if the vehicle is understeering (tends to push out of the curve) to the rear inside wheel.


The limits defined by the laws of physics cannot be negated by the ESP. This is particularly applicable to icy and wet roads as well as when driving with a trailer.

The driver’s style of driving must always be adapted to suit the current road quality and traffic situation. The increased safety aspect offered by the ESP should not encourage the driver to take unnecessary risks!

How the TCS system works

The TCS prevents the driving wheels on vehicles with front wheel drive from losing traction during acceleration by reducing the engine output. The system works at all speeds together with ABS. If there is a fault in the ABS, the TCS will not function.

The TCS makes it much easier, or even possible, to pull away, accelerate and climb steep gradients under unfavourable conditions.


The style of driving must always be adapted to suit road surface and traffic conditions. The increased safety offered by the traction control system (TCS) should not encourage one to take unnecessary risks.

General notes

In order to guarantee a fault-free function of the ESP or TCS, all four wheels must have the same tyres. Different roll circumferences on the tyres could lead to an unwanted reduction in engine performance.

Modifications to the vehicle (e.g. to the engine, brakes system, running gear or a different wheel/tyre combination) can affect the functioning of the ABS, EDL, ESP and TCS.

Please refer therefore to the notes on page 49.






Four-wheel drive* (4MOTION)

The drive concept

The four-wheel drive requires no user operation.

The drive is distributed automatically and is adapted to best suit your driving style and the road conditions.


The style of driving must always be adapted to suit road surface and traffic conditions. The increased safety offered by this type of vehicle must not encourage one to take unnecessary risks.

In particular, one must always remember that the braking ability is limited by the adhesion of the tyres on the road surface and no different from a two-wheel drive vehicle.

For this reason, one should never be tempted by the good acceleration capabilities, even on slippery road surfaces, to drive too fast.

It should be noted that the front wheels can aquaplane when driving at high speeds on wet road. When this happens – contrary to vehicles with front wheel drive only – the start of the aquaplaning is not indicated by a sudden revving up of the engine. For this reason, do not drive too fast, always adapt the speed to the existing road conditions.

What else should be noted?

Using winter tyres

With the four-wheel drive the vehicle has good traction in winter road conditions even with the standard tyres. However, the use of winter/all-weather tyres on all four wheels is recommended to further improve handling and braking.

Using snow chains

Snow chains must also be used on vehicles with four wheel drive when snow chains are obligatory. Further details about using snow chains are given on page 48.

Snow chains may only be fitted on the front wheels – this also applies to vehicles with four wheel drive (4 MOTION).

Renewing wheels/tyres

Vehicles with four wheel drive must have wheels which all have the same rolling circumference.

For further notes see page 45.






The first 1500 km – and afterwards


During the first few operating hours the engine internal friction is higher than later on when all the moving parts have bedded down. How well this running-in process is done depends to a considerable extent on the way the vehicle is driven during the first 1500 km.

Up to 1000 kilometres

the following general rules apply:

lDo not use full throttle

lDo not drive faster than 3/4 of top speed

lAvoid high engine speeds

lTrailer towing should if possible be avoided.


lNew tyres must be ”run in” as they have not yet reached their optimum grip level. This should be taken into account in your driving style during the first 500 km.

lNew brake linings must also be run in and do not have the optimum friction properties during the first 200 km. The slightly reduced braking effect can be compensated for by more pressure on the brake pedal. This also applies when new linings have been fitted.

From 1000 – 1500 km

The speed can be gradually increased to the road or engine maximum.

During and after the running-in period the following applies:

l Do not overrev the engine when cold – either in neutral or in the gears.

`Do not drive with the engine speed unnecessarily high –

changing up early helps to save fuel, reduces noise and protects the environment – see also page 13.

l Do not let engine labour – change down when engine no longer runs smoothly.






Exhaust emission control system*

Trouble-free functioning of the exhaust emission control system is decisive for the environment-friendly operation of the vehicle.

The following points should therefore be noted:

lVehicles fitted with a catalytic converter may only be driven on unleaded petrol – see page 2.

lNever drive until the fuel tank is completely empty on vehicles with a catalyst. The irregular fuel supply can cause misfiring. This allows unburnt fuel into the exhaust system. This can cause overheating and damage to the catalyst.

lIf whilst driving, the engine misfires, loses power and runs unevenly, this could be due to a fault in the ignition system. In a this case, unburnt fuel can enter the exhaust system and then escape to atmosphere. Furthermore, the catalytic converter could become damaged due to overheating. The vehicle speed must be reduced immediately. The defect should be dealt with at the nearest qualified dealership.

lDo not overfill engine oil – see page 32.

lDo not tow start vehicle for more than 50 m – see page 77.


lDue to high temperatures which can occur in the catalytic converter in very unfavourable conditions, the vehicle should not be parked so that the catalytic converter can come into contact with inflammable materials.

lNever use additional under floor protection or anti–cor- rosion agents for the exhaust silencer, exhaust pipe, catalysts or heat shields. This substances could ignite whilst the vehicle is in motion.


Even in the case of a perfectly working exhaust emission control system there can, under certain engine operating conditions, be a sulphurous exhaust smell.

This depends upon the sulphur content in the fuel being used.

Quite often this can be remedied by selecting another brand of fuel or, filling up with unleaded premium petrol.






Driving economically and with respect for the environment

Fuel consumption, environmental compatibility and wear on the engine, brakes and tyres depend largely on three different factors:

lpersonal driving style,

lthe individual conditions of use,

ltechnical conditions.

Fuel consumption can be reduced easily by 10–15 percent with a proper and economic driving style. The 10 tips given in this chapter have been drawn up in order to make your driving not only easier on the environment, but also on your wallet!

Tip 1

`Look ahead when driving!

A vehicle uses the most fuel when accelerating. Look ahead when you are driving – in that way you will have to brake less and thus accelerate less. You should also, if possible, allow the vehicle to roll to a stop, if it can be seen that the next traffic lights are red, for example.

Tip 2

`Correct tyre pressures!

Always ensure that your tyres have the correct pressure. The fuel consumption will increase by up to 5 percent , even at an incorrect pressure of 5 Bar too little. If the tyre pressures are not high enough they will also cause increased road resistance and thus to increased wear on the tyres and a poor driving response.

The tyre pressures should only be checked when the tyres are cold!

Another tip: Do not use winter tyres all year round as they are louder and will cause fuel consumption to rise by up to 10 percent – They should only be used when really needed!


Tip 3

`Shifting gear to save energy!

Another effective method of saving fuel is to shift up through the gears: fuel will be used unnecessarily if the gears are driven to a high rev.

The illustration shows the relationship between consumption (ltr/100 km) to speed (km/h) in the gear as selected.

The following guidelines can help: You should only drive the length of one vehicle in first gear. You should always shift up to the next highest gear at approximately 2000 revs.

The accelerator on vehicles equipped with automatic gearboxes should be operated slowly and not be depressed down to the kick-down position. In this way, an economical programme is selected which will shift gears to lower consumption, by shifting up early and shifting down late.







Tip 4

`Slower is more economical!

You should never travel at top speed in your vehicle if at all possible. Fuel consumption, emissions and driving noise all increase at an incredible rate at high speeds.

The illustration above shows the ratio of consumption (ltr/100 km) to speed (km/h).

The fuel consumption of your vehicle will be reduced by approximately 50% if you drive at roughly 75% of its possible top speed.

Tip 5

`Idling speed down to a minimum!

It is worthwhile switching the engine off when in a traffic jam, at level crossings and at traffic lights with a long red phase: The amount of fuel saved after only 30–40 seconds is greater than the amount of fuel needed to switch the engine back on again.

Tip 6

`Regular servicing!

An important basis for economic driving can be laid down even before you start driving by taking your vehicle into a Volkswagen dealer for regular servicing! The level of servicing of the vehicle engine will not only have an effect on road safety and the prolonged value of the vehicle, but also on the level of vehicle consumption.

A badly tuned engine can consume up to ten percent more fuel than necessary!

Check the oil level every time you fill up!

The consumption of oil is very dependent on the load and rev of the engine. Oil consumption can be up to 1 ltr/1,000 km, depending on your style of driving.

Extra tip: The use of high lubricity oils can help to reduce the level of consumption.

Tip 7

`No unnecessary loads!

There are further possibilities to reduce fuel consumption alongside driving style and regular servicing of the vehicle:

Do not carry unnecessary loads.

As every kilogram of weight will increase the fuel consumption, it is worthwhile checking the luggage compartment occasionally to ensure that unnecessary loads are not being transported.

A roof load carrier is often left in place out of convenience, even when it is no longer needed. At a speed of 100 –120 km/h, your vehicle will consume approximately 12 percent more fuel as a result of the increase in wind resistance caused by the roof load carrier – even when it is empty!







Tip 8

`Fewer short trips!

The engine and catalytic converter must reach their proper working temperature in order to be able to reduce consumption and emissions effectively.

The cold engine of a mid–class vehicle will, directly after starting the ignition, consume between 30 and 40 litres of fuel per 100 km. The consumption will sink to 20 litres per kilometre after a further kilometre. The engine will not have reached its full operating temperature until approximately four kilometres after starting and the level of consumption will be normal. Short trips should, therefore, be avoided if at all possible.

The ambient temperature is also decisive in this context: The illustration shows the different levels of consumption (ltr/100 km) for the same journey (km), at +20 0C and

–10 0C. Your vehicle will always consume more fuel in winter than in summer!

Tip 9

`Save electricity!

Electricity is created and made available by the alternator in your vehicle. The fuel consumption will rise in parallel to the load placed on the the alternator by electrical consumers.

Rear window heating, additional headlights, hot air blowers and air conditioning systems* all require a large amount of energy. The rear window heater will, for example, increase fuel consumption by approximately one litre over ten hours.

Electrical consumers should, therefore, always be switched off when they are no longer needed!

Tip 10

`Keep a record!

A record of the trips you have made is also an effective method of reducing consumption. It is possibly to quickly notice any changes (either positive or negative) and – if necessary – take appropriate action to stop them. If the fuel consumption is very high, you should take time to consider how, where and under what sort of conditions you were driving to use the last tank of fuel.






Driving abroad

If the vehicle is to be taken abroad, the following must also be borne in mind:

lIf the vehicle has a petrol engine and catalytic converter, one must ensure that unleaded petrol will be available during the journey – see page 2. The automobile clubs offer information about the unleaded filling station network.

lAlthough there are more than 10,000 Volkswagen dealers all over the world to service Volkswagen vehicles there are countries in which only a limited amount of service is available or none at all.

lIn certain countries it is also possible that your vehicle model is not sold so that certain spare parts will not be available or that the Volkswagen personnel are not familiar with the repair procedure should anything go wrong.

The Volkswagen Distribution Centres in Germany or the Importer concerned will be only too pleased to give advice on the necessary technical preparation of the vehicle, on the maintenance required and on the repair possibilities.

The addresses can be found in the ”Assistance in Europe” booklet.

Adjusting/Attaching adhesive strips to headlights

When the vehicle is driven in a country which drives on the opposite side of the road to the home country, the asymmetric dipped headlights will dazzle oncoming traffic.

Depending on the type of headlight fitted, the headlight must either be adjusted or areas of the headlight lens must be covered with opaque tape to stop this dazzle effect. Further information can be obtained from your Volkswagen dealer.






Trailer towing

The vehicle is intended mainly for the transportation of persons and luggage but it can, with the appropriate technical equipment, also be used to tow a trailer.

Technical requirements

lIf the vehicle is supplied with a factoryfitted* tow hook, all that is technically and legally necessary for trailer towing will have been taken into account.

lIf the trailer to be towed has a 7-pin plug, an adapter cable can be used which is obtained from a Volkswagen dealer.

lIf the vehicle is retrofitted with a tow hook, this must be done according to the manufacturer’s instructions – please also refer to Booklet 3.3, ”Technical Data”.

lWe recommend that the tow hook be fitted by a Volkswagen dealer.

Operations instructions

lOn vehicles with a factory-fitted tow hook* the removable ball coupling, together with instructions on fitting, is stored in the luggage compartment.

lThe permissible trailer weight must not be exceeded on any account – see Booklet 3.3, ”Technical Data”.

lWhere possible make full use of the maximum permissible drawbar weight on ball of the tow hook, but do not exceed it.

lIf the maximum permissible trailer weight is not used, correspondingly steeper gradients can be climbed.

lThe given trailer weights are only applicable for altitudes up to 1000 m above sea level. As the engine output and thus the

climbing ability drops due to the decreasing air density, the combined weight1) must also be reduced by 10 % for each further 1000 m or part thereof.

lWhile observing the permissible trailer and drawbar weight, distribute the load in the trailer so that heavy objects are as near as possible to the axle. The objects must also be secured so that they cannot slip about.

lCheck the tyre pressures on the towing vehicle, and adjust for full load conditions, and also check the pressures on the trailer.

lAdditional mirrors are required if the traffic behind the trailer is not visible with the exterior mirrors fitted as standard. Both exterior mirrors must be attached to brackets in such a way that a sufficient field of vision to the rear is guaranteed at all times.

1)The combined weight is made up of the actual weight of the pulling vehicle and the actual weight of the trailer. If the max. permissible towing weight is to be used, the weight of the pulling vehicle might have to be reduced if necessary.






l The headlight settings, should be checked with trailer attached before moving off and adjusted as necessary.

On vehicles with headlight beam control it is only necessary to turn the knurled disc in dash in the appropriate direction.

Driving tips

To obtain the best possible handling of vehicle and trailer, the following should be noted:

lAlways keep the ESP switched on, if your vehicle is fitted with it, when driving with a trailer. The ESP system will make it easier for you to stabilise a trailer which is skidding from side to side.

lTry to avoid driving with an unladen vehicle and a loaded trailer. If this cannot be avoided, only drive slowly to allow for the unfavourable weight distribution.

lAs driving stability of vehicle and trailer decreases when the speed increases do not drive at the maximum permissible top speed in unfavourable road, weather or wind conditions – particularly when going downhill.

In any case the speed must be reduced immediately the trailer shows the slightest sign of snaking. On no account try to stop the snaking by accelerating.

Please also refer to the notes on trailer towing loads in Booklet 3.3, ”General notes on the technical data”.

lAlways brake in good time. If the trailer has an overrun brake, apply the brakes gently at first then firmly. This will avoid the jerking caused by the trailer wheels locking. Change down before going down a steep hill so that the engine can act as a brake.

lWhen a long climb in a low gear with extremely high engine revs must be negotiated at exceptionally high ambient temperatures the coolant temperature gauge must be observed. When the gauge needle moves to the right end of the scale, the road speed must be reduced immediately. If, however, the warning lamp flashes, stop immediately and allow the engine to cool off at idling speed for several minutes.

General notes

lIt is advisable to have the vehicle serviced between the Inspection intervals if it is used frequently for towing a trailer.

lThe trailer and drawbar load figures on the data plate of the tow hook are for test certification only. The correct figures for the vehicle, which may be lower than the above figures, are given in the vehicle documents and in Booklet 3.3, ”Technical Data”.











Care of vehicle









The following points on caring for your ve-

Care of vehicle exterior

hicle apply to all Volkswagen passenger ve-


hicle models. For this reason, some points

in this chapter will not apply to your vehicle.




Regular and expert care helps to

Dampness and ice in the brake

maintain the value of the vehicle.

Furthermore it can be one of the sti-

system can have a negative ef-

fect on the braking power.

pulations for the upholding of war-



ranty claims should corrosion dam-

The best protection against damaging envi-

age and paint defects occur.

ronmental influences is frequent washing

We recommend that you use Volkswagen

and waxing.

approved car care materials which can be

How often this treatment is required de-

purchased from your Volkswagen. The in-

pends, amongst other things on how much

structions for use on the container should

the vehicle is used, how it is parked (garage,

be followed.







in open under trees etc.), the seasons,










weather conditions and environmental in-





l If misused, car care materials



The longer bird droppings, insects, tree

can be injurious to health.


l Car

care materials

must al-


resin, road and industrial grime, tar spots,


soot, road salt and other aggressive ma-

ways be stored in a safe place



terials remain on the vehicle paint the more

where they are out of the reach of



lasting their destructive effect will be. High








temperatures e.g. from strong sunlight in-






`When buying car care materials

tensifies the corrosive effect.





In certain circumstances weekly washing

which do not damage the environ-

can be necessary, in other conditions



containers which

monthly washing with appropriate waxing

these materials were in do not be-

may be fully adequate.

long with household waste.

After the period when salt is put on the

You should never attempt to remove

roads the underside of the vehicle musts al-

dirt, mud or dust when the vehicle

ways be washed thoroughly.

surface is dry. A dry cloth should also not be used for this purpose as the paint work or the windows of your vehicle could be damaged.

The dirt, mud or dust should first be soaked with a lot of water before you attempt to remove them.






Automatic car washes

The vehicle paint is so durable that the vehicle can normally be washed without any problem in an automatic car wash. The influence on the paint depends to a large extent, however, on the design of the car wash, the filtering of the wash water, the type of wash and care material, etc. If the paint has a matt appearance after going through the wash or is even scratched this should be brought to the notice of the car wash operator immediately. If necessary a different car wash should be used.


lBefore going through the car wash, apart from the usual precautions (closing windows and sliding roof*) there is nothing further to note.

The exterior mirrors should, however, be folded in in order to prevent damage.

lIf there are special fittings on the vehicle

– such as spoilers, roof rack, two–way radio aerial etc. it is best to speak to the plant operator.

Washing the vehicle by hand

`In the interests of environmental protection the vehicle should

only be washed in specially provided wash bays. In some districts, washing cars elsewhere may even be forbidden.

First soften the dirt with plenty of water and rinse off as well as possible.

Then clean the car with a soft sponge, glove or brush, starting on the roof and going from top to bottom using only slight pressure. Paint shampoo should only be used for very persistent dirt.

Rinse the sponge or glove out thoroughly at short intervals.

Wheels and sill panels should be cleaned last, using a different sponge if possible.

After cleaning the vehicle, rinse thoroughly with water and leather it off.


lNever wash the vehicle whilst the engine is running.

lProtect your hands from possible cuts on sharp metal edges when cleaning the underbody, the underside of the mudguard (wheel house) or the wheel covers.


lThe vehicle should not be washed in strong sunshine.

lIf the vehicle is rinsed with a hose, do not direct the jet of water at the lock cylinders and the door/boot lid shut lines – they can freeze up in the winter.






Washing vehicle with high pressure cleaner

lThe operating instructions for the high pressure cleaner must be followed closely

– particularly with regard to pressure and working distance.

lDo not use a concentrated jet.

lThe water temperature must not exceed 60°C.

lIn order to prevent damage to, please maintain sufficient distance to soft materials, such as rubber hoses, plastic parts or sealing materials, with the high pressure cleaner. This also applies when cleaning the painted bumpers.

The material will be placed under more pressure the closer the pressure cleaner is to the surface.


Tyres must never be cleaned with a concentrated jet! Even at a relatively large working distance and a very short spraying time, damage can occur.


A good coat of wax protects the vehicle paintwork to a large extent against the environmental influences listed under ”Washing” on the previous page and even against light mechanical damage.

At the latest when water on the clean paint does not form small drops and roll off, the vehicle should be protected by applying a coat of good hard wax. Even when a wax solution is used regularly in the washing water it is advisable to protect the paint with a coat of hard wax at least twice a year.

Paint damage

Small marks in the paint such as scratches or stone damage should be touched up immediately with paint (Volkswagen touch-up stick or spray can) before the metal starts to rust.

However, should rust be found at any time it must be removed thoroughly and then the area treated first with an anti-corrosion primer and then the correct paint applied. You can of course have this work done by a Volkswagen dealer.

The number of the original paint of the vehicle is given on the vehicle data sticker – see Booklet 3.3 ”Vehicle Identification Data”.

Door lock cylinder

To de-ice the door lock cylinder we recommend the Genuine Volkswagen Spray, which has lubricating and anti-corrosive qualities.

Door, boot, roof and window seals

The rubber seals will remain supple and last longer if occasionally treated with an appropriate agent (e.g. silicon spray). In this way, a better seat for the rubber lips on the sealing surfaces can be achieved. Furthermore, premature ageing of the seals can be avoided and leaks and large door slamming forces can be stopped. In this way they will also not freeze shut in Winter!







Remove snow from the windows and mirrors, preferably using a brush.

Remove ice from windows and mirrors with a soft plastic scraper, or even better with de-icing spray.

To avoid scratches due to dirt on the glass, the scraper should only be pushed in one direction and not moved to and fro.

Never remove snow and ice from windows and mirrors with warm or hot water – there is a risk that the glass could crack!

Traces of rubber, oil, wax1), grease or silicone can be removed with a window cleaning solution or a silicone remover.

The windows should also be cleaned on the inside at regular intervals.

Do not dry the windows with the leather used for the paintwork because traces of paint cleaner will cause streaks to appear on the glass.

To avoid damaging the heating element wires in the rear window do not put stickers over the wires on the inside.

1)This wax residue can only be removed with a special cleaner. Your Volkswagen dealer will be able to provide you with more detailed information.

Plastic parts

Plastic parts are cleaned by washing normally. If this is not sufficient, please use a solvent-free plastic cleaner which has been approved by Volkswagen.

Cleaning agents containing solvents will damage the material.


Should only be done if paint has lost its shine and gloss cannot be brought back with wax. If the polish used does not contain preservative compounds, the paint must be waxed afterwards.

Matt painted and plastic parts should not be treated with polish or hard wax.

Cavity preservation

All cavities on the vehicle which could be susceptible to corrosion are given permanent protection at the factory.

This coating does not need checking or any subsequent treatment. Should a small amount of wax run out of the cavities at high ambient temperatures it can be removed with a plastic scraper and some white spirit.

`If the wax which has run out is removed with clean petrol, heed

the environmental protection regulations.






Steel wheels

The wheels and the wheel trims should be cleaned thoroughly at regular intervals when the vehicle is being washed. This will prevent brake dust, dirt and road salt from accumulating on the wheel. Persistent ingrained brake dust can be removed with an industrial grime remover. Paint damage should be repaired before rust can form.


Please note when cleaning the wheels that dampness, ice and grit can have a negative effect on the braking power.

Alloy wheels*

In order to maintain the smart appearance of alloy wheels for a long period, regular care is necessary. In particular, salt and brake pad dust must be washed off thoroughly at least every two weeks otherwise the surface of the alloy will be damaged. After being washed, the wheels should be treated with an acid-free cleaner for alloy wheels.

About every three months it is necessary to give wheels a good rubbing with hard wax. Paint polish or other abrasive solutions must not be used. If the protective paint coat has been damaged, e.g. by stone impact, the damaged spots should be dealt with as soon as possible.


Please note when cleaning the wheels that dampness, ice and grit can have a negative effect on the braking power.


The underside of the vehicle is coated with a special compound to protect it from corrosion and damage.

However, as this protective layer becomes damaged when the vehicle is in use, the protective coating under the body and on the running gear should be examined at defined intervals – preferably before and after the winter season – and any damage repaired.

Volkswagen dealers have stocks of the correct compound, have the necessary equipment and are familiar with the application procedure.

We advise you, therefore, to have the patching up or additional coating done by a Volkswagen dealer.


Never use additional under floor protection or anti–corrosion agents for the exhaust silencer, exhaust pipe, catalysts or heat shields. These substances could ignite whilst the vehicle is in motion.

Note for vehicles with a catalytic converter

Due to the high temperatures which occur in the afterburning process, additional heat shields are fitted over the catalytic converter. Underbody sealant must not be applied to these shields, the catalytic converter or the exhaust pipes. Removal of the heat shields is also not permissible.






Care of the vehicle interior

Plastic parts, instrument panel and leatherette

Plastic parts and leatherette are cleaned with a damp cloth. If this is not sufficient, these parts may only be cleaned with special solvent-free plastic cleaners which have been approved by Volkswagen.

Cleaning agents containing solvents will damage the material.


Never clean the instrument panel and surface of the airbag module with cleaning agents containing solvents.

Cleaning agents containing solvents will make the surface porous. Serious injuries could result from the breakage of plastic parts should the airbag ever have to be triggered.

Alcantara (Velours leather imitation)

Do not use leather treatments to clean Alcantara covers!

Removing dust and dirt

The Alcantara covers should be wiped down using a slightly damp, soft cloth or treated with an appropriate shampoo.

Particles of dirt and dust will wear down the leather more quickly because of their abrasive nature.

Removing stains

Dampen a soft cloth with lukewarm water or diluted white spirit and treat he stain by moving from the outer edge to the centre.

Stubborn stains should be removed by a specialist company in order to prevent damage.

Natural leather

Ensure that the leather is not exposed to bright, direct sunshine for extended periods as it will otherwise loose its colour.

It must be noted that on no account may solvents, floor wax, shoe polish, spot removers and similar products be used for treating the leather.

Stubborn stains should be removed by a specialist company in order to prevent damage.

Care of the leather

We recommend that, with normal usage, the leather is treated at half-yearly intervals with a leather care agent. This agent is to be applied very sparingly. After it has dried in, wipe with a soft cloth.

Removing dust and dirt

Wipe down the leather areas with a damp cloth. Dirtier areas can be cleaned with a mild soap solution (2 dessert spoonfuls of a neutral soap to 1 litre of water). It is essential to note that the leather must not be made too wet and that no water seeps through the seams. After cleaning, wipe dry with a soft cloth.

Particles of dirt and dust will wear down the leather more quickly because of their abrasive nature.






Upholstery cloth and textile trim

Upholstery cloth and textile trim on door panels, luggage compartment covers, headlining etc. are cleaned with special cleaning materials or dry foam and a soft brush.

Care of chrome

Chrome parts should be cleaned with a damp cloth and then polished with a soft, dry cloth. If this is not sufficient, use a chrome cleaning material.

Stains and dirt coatings on the chrome parts can be removed using a chrome cleaning material. You can prevent dirt coatings from building up on the surfaces by using a chrome cleaning material regularly. To this end, ensure that the entire surface is completely and evenly covered with the cleaning material.


lYou should, under no circumstances, use an abrasive cleaning material.

lThe chrome surfaces should not be cleaned in dusty or sandy environments.

Thermal box*

Before the thermal box is used for the first time it should be cleaned inside with warm water to which a mild cleaning solution has been added.

To prevent mould and damp stains forming when the thermal box is not used for long periods the lid should be propped open slightly by inserting a towel or cloth which has been folded several times.

Dirty belts should be cleaned by washing with a mild soap solution, without taking the belts out of the vehicle.


Inertia reel belts should be completely dry before they are allowed to roll up.


lThe seat belts must not be removed for cleaning.

lDo not have the belts cleaned chemically because the cleaning compounds damage the webbing material.

Ensure that the belts do not come into contact with corrosive fluids.

lYou should check the condition of your seat belts regularly. If you find any damage of the belt webbing, belt connections, the belt retractor or the locking parts, the belt in question must be replaced by a qualified dealer.

Cleaning seat belts

Keep belts clean! They may not retract properly if very dirty.





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