SINGER 4022 User Manual

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Instruction Book for

Sewing Machine Model 4012/4022

Copyright © 1984 T.S. CO.
All Rights Reserved Throughout the World

Contents

*A Trademark of

'.S.

Co.

1. Getting to Know Your
Machine

Principal Parts ...................

Accessories .........................

2. Getting Ready to Sew .
Choosing and Changing

Accessories
Operating Machine
The Bobbin

Threading the Machine

3. Straight Stitching
Adjusting Machine Stitch
Sewing a Seam

Applications

4. Basic Zig-Zag Stitching
Adjusting Machine Stitch

...........................

...................

-----------

........................

..............

..................

......................

2
2

4

5

5
12
13
16

18
18

20
21

23
OQ

¿o

5, Machine Stitch Patterns .. 29

Setting Selectors
Adjusting Stitches to

Suit Stretch Fabrics ... 31

Application

6, Buttonholes ............................

Buttonholes ...........................

Garment Preparation
Four-Step Buttonholing ,.

7. Twin-Needle Stitching .,..

8. Free-Arm Sewing

9. Performance Checklist ... 48

10. Caring for Your Machine

Index .......................................

............................

..................

............

...................

29

33

42
42
42

44

46
47

49

53

Applications

For European Territories—
This product is suppressed for radio and television interference in

accordance with the International Electrotechnical Commission require
rnents of the CISPR.

........................

25

1

1. Getting to Know Your Machine

2

Principal Parts

1. spool Pin

2. Take-up Lever

3. Rear Thread Guide

4. Tension Dial

5. Face Plate

6. Light Switch

7. Presser Foot Lifter

8. Thread Cutter

9. General Purpose Foot

10< Thread Guard
11< Sewing Light

12. Thread Guide

13. Fabric Feed

14. Needle Plate

15. Bobbin Case Holder

16. Bobbin Case

17. Needle Clamp

18. Extension Bed (4022)

18. Slide Plate (4012)

19. Electrical Connections and

Speed Controller

20. Fland Wheel

21. Hand Wheel Knob

22. Bobbin Winder Spindle

23. Reverse Lever

24. Pattern Selector

25. Stitch Length Selector

26. Stitch Width Selector
To ensure that you are always

provided with the most modern

sewing capabilities, THE MANU

FACTURER reserves the right to
change the appearance, design or
accessories of this sewing machine
when considered necessary.

2 A

B

3

4

5

Accessories

The accessories that come with
your sewing machine are designed
to help you do many kinds of
sewing easily.

1. Transparent BobNns

(No. 541090)

2. Needles
®A Style 2020 is used for gen

eral sewing.

®B Style 2045 is used for sew

ing knits, stretch fabrics and
elastic.

®C Style 2024 is used for twin-

needle decorative stitching

on woven and knit fabrics.

CAUTION: Uso twin-needle with the

genera! purpose needle plate and
general purpose foot only. Do not
use any other accessories with this
needle as needle breakage will
occur.

6

C...

V ,

7

9

10

Cr

c

r

o

8

___

_______________

o

3. Buttonhole Foot is used to make
bar tack buttonholes in four

steps.

h

58

nr

jrj

4. Zipper Foot for inserting zippers

and stitching corded seams.

5. Gener«4 Purpose Foot, on your

machine when delivered, is used
for all utility and decorative

sewirig.

6. General Purpose Needle Plate,

on your maciiine when de

livered, is used with ail presser
feet.

7. Snaj>in Feed Cover.

8. Seam Guide helps you keep

seam allowances even,

9. Screwdriver for adjusting bob
bin-thread tension.

10. Detachable spool pin is used for

twin-needle sewing.

4

2. Getting Ready to Sew

Choosing and Changing

Accessories

CAUTION: Disconnect the power

line plug from the socket outlet

when changing needles, feet, or
needle plates, or when leaving the
machine unattended. This elimi
nates the possibility of starting the
machine by accidentally pressing
the speed controller.

Changing Presser Feet
Removing Presser Foot with Shank

® Raise needle to highest position

by turning the hand wheel toward

you.

® Raise presser foot.

0 Loosen presser foot screw A and

remove the shank, guiding it to
the right.

Replacing Presser Foot with Shank

« Hook shank around the presser

bar, guiding it to the left and
tighten presser foot screw A.

NOTE: Insert the edge of a coin in

the slot of the presser foot screw to

loosen it and to tighten it securely.

5

Changing the Needle
® Raise needle to its highest point

by turning the hand wheel toward

you. Loosen needle clamp screw
A and remove the needle.

« Insert new needle up into clamp

B as far as it will go, with the flat

side of the needle to the back.

® Tighten needle clamp screw.

Attaching Snap-in Feed Cover
® Raise needle to highest position

by turning fiand wheel toward

you.

® Raise presser foot.
« Slide snap-in feed cover away

from you over needle plate until
points C and D are positioned
directly over f^otes in needle plate
as illustrated. Snap in point C.
Then piish point D toward point
C until it snaps into place.

® fo remove, lift up edges of feed

cover.

Attaching the Seam Guide

Place screw in either hole to the

right of the needle plate; line up
straight edge of guide with the
needle plate guideline for desired
seam width, and tig I den screw.

6

Remove and Replacing hJeoclle

Plate

.....

4022

A

J

A

4022 Machine
e Raise needle to its higliest posi

tion.
« Raise presser foot,
® Open hook cover A.
® With your forefinger push needle

plate upward from beneath and

remove plate.
To replace needle plate, guide

needle plate into position under the

presser foot. Be sure the guide
projection B fits into the groove of
(fie free-arm. Press needle plate
down to ensure proper positioning,

Close hook cover.

o

O

4oia

000

ill I

2U

XT

4012 Machine
« Raise needle to its highest posi

tion.
o Raise presser foot.
® Draw slide plate out toward you.

® Remove the needle plate and

cover plate by simply guiding it
toward you.

To replace needle plate, guide
needle plate into position under the
presser foot.

7

Fabric Weight Table

Ttx!fe are thousands of fabrics around the world, each
manufactured with a specific fibre and weight. The
fabrics txifow trave l>een classified according to weight
to give a sniall sample of what is available lor purchase.

Refer to this table to determine the weight and type of
fabric you will be using in order to select the correct
rreedle and thread combination.

For correct needle and thread combination for your

fabric, refer to the I abric, Thread and Needle Table on

pages 10 and 11.

Jibro and

GonstrucUon

Silk

(Woven),

(Knit)_

Rayon

(Woven)

T (Knit);: :

Cotton ^

(Woven)

(Knit)

....

(Woven)

(Knit)

Synthotie

(Woven)

: PHmy

Chiffon,
Organza,
Tulle

Tulle

Voile,
Ttille

Chiffon,
Organza,
Tulle

Sheer

Net, t.ace, Ninon Velvet, Crepe de Cfiine, Shantung. Faille

Jersey

Net, Lace

Net, lace Chalte, Organdy, Muslin, Batiste, Dimity,

Net, Lace, Ninr.>n Crepe, Velvet, 1 affeta. Satin

Crepe de Cfiine

Velvet, Taffeta, Satin

Ciré

Lawn, Percale, Eyelet, Gingham, Piqué,
Poplin

Jersey

Cashmere. Flannel, Mohair, Felt, Crefxr

Jeiscy

Light

8

(Knit)

Synthetic

Blends

(Woven)

(Knit)

Leather

Plastic

Vinyls

Rasct'iet, Single Knit. Sweater Knit,

Bonded Knit. Tricot. Ciré

Voile

Plastic fulm Plastic f ilm

Broadcloth, Batiste. Eyelet, Gingham,
f^oplin

Single Knit
Kidskin, Patent, Chamois, Imitation-

Leathers and Suedes, l eather. Suede

Medium

Velvet. Crepe do Ciiine, Slvantung,
Suiting, Brocade

Velvet, Taffeta, Satin, Crepe Brocade. Taffeta, Satin.

Crepe

Heavy

Very Heavy

Veiveteen, Ciorduroy, Velvet, t-teece.
Velour, Terry, Chintz

Stretch Velours*, Stretch Terry*

‘ Usually contain some synthetic fibres also.

Suiting, Flannel, Gabardine, Felt, Serge,

Mohair

Jersey
Velvet, Crepe, Taffeta, Satin

Jacquard, Double Knit, Sweater Knit, Bonded
Knit, Tricot Spandex, Stretch Terry. Stretch

Velour, iJeep Bile. Fake Furs
Lirien type. Poplin, Corduroy, Gabardine Denim. Gabardine,

Terry Knit
Patent. Imitation-Leathers and Suedes,

Leather, Suede, Reptile

Corduroy, Denim,
Ticking, Canvas, Linen.
Drapery Fabric, Burlap

Suiting, Tweed, Duffel

Gabardine

Double Knit, Helenca,
Fake Furs

Drapery Fabric

Double Knit
Buckskin, Calfskin,

Suede, Reptile

Denim. Duck, Canvas,
Sailcloth, Upholstery
f'abric

Coating, Blanketing

Upholstery l.eather

Bonded Vinyl (Knit Back), Patent,
Embossed. Printed

Uptiolstery Vinyl

Upholstery Vinyl

9

Fabric, Thread and
Needle Table

Choosing Iho concct nccdio fHid thread for your fabric is of
utmost importance. Correct choice» will make (he rfifference in
the wear and appearance of your rrew garment The fabric
Weight Table on the previous page and the fabric, Ifiread and
Needle Table below are practical guides to needle and thread
selection, (iefer to itiorn before starting a sewing project. Be
sure to use the same siwi and typo ol thread in both trecdle and
bobbin
To select the correct needle and thread for your fabric, first
refer to the fmbric Weight lahte to determine the weight aiuf
typo ol Itie material you are using

Typo

of

Fabric

Silk

Rayon

Cotton

Woo!

Synthetic

Filmy

Threads Needles

Sheer

Threads Needles

f'ine Silk i ino Silk

l ine Cotton 2020-9/70
Fino SynUietic

Fine Silk Fine Silk

I me Cotton

Fine Synthetic

Fine Cotton I ino Cotlon

Fine Syntliotic

Fine Synthetic 2020-9/70 F ino Synthetic 2020-9/70

2020-9/70

2020-9//0 f ino Synthetic

Fine Cotton
I ino Synthetic

Fine Cotton
Fine Syntfietic

2020-9/70

2020-9/70

2020 9 70

Light

Throads

l-irie Silk
f ino Colton
Fine Synthetic

Fine Silk
t ino Colton
f ine Synthetic

Mediirjii Cottor) Woven
Medium Syntiiotic 2045-11/80

Fine Silk
t ino Colton

l-ine Syntfiefic

Needles

2020 11/80
Vv'oven
2045 11/80

Knit

202a-11./80

Woven
2045-11/80
Knit

2020 t1/80

Knit
2020-11/80

V'/ovon
2040 11/80
Knit

2020-11/80
Woven
2045-11/80
Knit

Synthetic

Biends

Leather

Plastic

Vinyls

10

I ine Synthetic

l-'ine Cotton
1 ine .Synthetic

2020 9//0

2020 9 70

2020 11/80

f'inc Synlitiitic

Medium Cotton
Mixlium Synthetic 2032-11/80

i ino Cotton
Fine Synthetic

Woven
204f>11/80
Knit

2020-11/80

Next refer to the Fabric. Thread and Neodfe Table Find the
fabric you are using iii Type of Fabric cokimri at left (silk,
rayon, etc,). Then locate the Fabric weight column (filmy,
sheer, etc.) for your Fabric at top of table. Read across from
Type of Fabric column to correct weight of Fabric column
There, the correct thread and needle clroice for your Fabric will

t)C found,
Example: If you are sewing a medium weight wool, find wool in

Type of Fabric column. Read across to Medium (weight)
column and you will see that a inodiurn silk, cotton or synthetic
thread and a size ?020'14 needle for woven fabrics or a size
2046-14 needle for knit fabrics are to be used

IMPORTANT: Your sov/ing machino has

l>8on designed to obtain best results with
SINGfrR' needles. You should lollow the
recommendations in this instruction
book and on the needle package tor
correct stylo and sine of needle tor
dillerenl types and weight ot fabric.

Medium

Threads Needles

Medium Silk
Medium Cotton 2020-11/80
Medium Syiithetic

Medium Synthetic
Medium Cotton 2020-11/80

2020-14/90
Medium
Medium

Colton Woven
Synthetic 2045-14./90

Knit
Mediiirn

Medium
Medium

Silk
Cotton
Synthetic

2020-14/90

Wovett

2045-14/90
Knit

2020-14/90

Medium Synthetic

Woven

2045-14/90

Knit

Heavy

Threads Needfes

Heavy Synttretic
Heavy Colton . 2020-16-'100

Heavy Cotton 2020-16/100

Heavy Colton 2020-16/100

202a-16/100

,, Woven
Heavy Synthct.c

Knit

Very Heavy

Threads Needles

Heavy Cotton 2020-18/110

Fleavy Cotton 2020-16/100

2020-14/90
Medium Syntliotic

W'oven

2045-14./90

Knit

Medium Cotton
Medium Syrithetic 2032-14/90

Medium Cotton

Medium Synthetic 2020-14/90

2020-16/100

Hoavy Syntholic

Wo von

KnII

Heavy Cotton
Heavy Synthetic 2032-16/100

Medium Cotton
Medium Synthetic 2020-16/100

A Trade mark of THE SINGETt COMPANY

Heavy Cotton
Heavy Synthetic 2032-18/110

Fioavy Cotton
Heavy Synthetic 2020-16/100

11

Operating the Machine

Connecting the Machine

® Before plugging in your machine, be

sure the electrical information on the

side of the machine A, below the

hand wheel, agrees with the range
marked on your electrical meter.

fMPORTANT Machines for Great

Britain and some otfier countries having
similar wiring standards are shipped
from the factory without a plug for

connection to the mains.

The wires in the main lead are coloured
according to code.

Bfue: Neutral (N)
Brown: Live (L)

As the colours of the wires in the main
lead of this appliance may not always
correspond with the coloured markings
identifying the terminals in your plug,
proceed as follows:
Tlie wire which is coloured blue must be
connected to the terminal which is
marked with the letter N or coloured

black.

The wire which is coloured brown must

be connected to the terminal which is

marked with the letter L or coloured red.
If a 13 amp (BS 1363) plug is used, a 3

amp fuse must be fitted, or if any other

type of plug is used, a 5 amp fuse must
be fitted either in the plug or adaptor or

at the distribution board,
e To turn on the machine, conrrect plug

B to machine and plug C to your
socket outlet,

9 To turn on the sewing light, press or

turn switch D as required. See
illustration.

9 To run the machine and control

speed, press the speed controller E

with your foot, i'he harder you press,

the faster the machine will sew.

CAUTION: Disconnect the powei line plug from the

socket auHot when changing needles, (cot or needle
plates or when leaving the machine imaltended.

This eliminates the possibility ol stading the

machine by accidentally pressing the speed com
Uoitor. Because ol the up and down rnovemerit of
the needle, you must work carefully and watch the
sewing area when operating the machine.

12

The Bobbin

Winding the Bobbin
Preparation Steps

1. Raise the pressor foot and turn
hand wheel toward you until
needle is in highest position.

2. {..oosen hand wheel ktiob A by
turning it toward you witti the
right hand while holding hand

wheel with the left hand.

3. Place thread spool on spool pin B
over the felt cushion. If spool

being used has a thread retaining

slit C, it should be placed at the
top.

Winding Steps

® Place spool of thread on spool

pin as instructed above.

® Lead thread around disc of rear

thread guide D, as illustrated, and

through small hole in l>obhin from
inside out.

® Snap bobbin onto spindle and

push bobbin to right to engage

bobbin Vv'inder.

0 Hold thread end, as shown, and

start the machine. Cut off thread
end after a few coils fiave been
wound.

0 When required amount of thread

has been wound (winding will
stop when bobbin is full), stop tfie
machine and cut cotmecting
thread.

0 Push bobbin to loft and remove

bobbin from spindle.

0 Hold hand wheel and tighten

hand wheel knob.

13

4022

Removing the Bobbin Case

When you prepare to sew, wind the
bobbin first then thread the ma

chine.

To Remove the Bobbin Case and
Bobbin.

® Turn hand wheel toward you to

raise take-up lever to its highest

position.

® 4022 Open hook cover A, as

illustrated.

e 4012 Open slide plate A by draw

ing it toward you.

® Grasp bobbin case latch B and

withdraw bobbin case.

® Release latch and bobbin will

drop out of case.

Threading the Bobbin Case

1. Hold bobbin case and bobbin so

that thread leads off in direction

shown above.

2. Place bobbin into bobbin case.

FTjII thread into slot C.

v3. Pull thread under tension spring

D and into slot E at end of spring,

as shown.

14

Replacing the Bobbin Case

1. Hold bobbin case by latch, with
about 7.5 cm (3 inches) of thread
leading off top of case,

2. Align protruding finger A with slot

B and slide case on the stud C.

® Release the latch and push

case until it clicks into place.
Allow 7.5 cm (3 inches) of
thread to hang free from bob
bin case.

» Close hook cover or slide

plate. Be sure thread does not
get caught when hook cover is

closed.

Adjusting Bobbin-Thread

Tension

The bobbin-thread tension has been
set at the factory for most types of
stitching. You may wish to adjust
the bobbin-thread tension when
straight stitching on fine fabrics or
to balance an open zig-zag stitch.

Bobbin and needle threads lock at
the corner of each stitch when a zig
zag stitch is balanced. To adjust the
bobbin-thread tension, follow the
procedure below using two layers of

scrap fabric.
® Raise the presser foot.
® Raise needle to highest position

by turning the hand wheel toward

you.

® Open hook cover or slide plate

and remove the bobbin case as

instructed on page 14.

® Slowly turn screw D to the left or

right, using the small screwdriver
in your accessory box, until

desired stitch appearance is

reached.

® When stitching is completed, turn

screw D to the right or left back to
original position, for all other
sewing.

15

rp.

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.....................................

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..........................

Threading the Machine

Preparallon

® F^laco spooi of thread on spool

pin, with thread retaining slit A on
top.

1

i

» Ftaise the take-up lever to highest

position by turning the hand
wheel toward you.

® Raise the presser foot, to release

thread tension.

1. Lead thread around disc of rear

thread guide B.

2. F^ass thread over guide pin C.

3. Next bring thread down channel
and firmly around thread guard D,
from left to right,

4

4. Ihread take-up lever by guiding

thread to back of lever E and
around to your right. Bring thread
through slit F by pulling it toward

you and into eyelet of lever E.

5. Follow thread back down through

5

channel, passing thread through
guides F and G.

16

® IDrawing 10 cm (4 inches) of

thread down toward needle, lower

presser foot and thread needle

front to back.

Raising the Bobbin Thread

1. Hold needle thread lightly with
left hand and turn hand wheel

slowly toward you until the

needle enters plate.

2. Continue turning hand wheel and
holding needle thread until needle

rises. Tighten your hold on the
needle thread and bring up
bobbin thread in a loop.

3. Undo the loop with your fingers.

4. Place both needle and bobbin
threads under the foot and draw
them to back of machine.

17

3. straight Stitching

A

^ K ^ ;;

<' < • •

Í ? J T

> 1

>
6 0

l>

) \ li

r 8 9 f)

Adjusting Machine Stitch

to Suit your Fabric

Before you move tfie seiectors to set

your machine for straight stitching, trim

the hand vVheel toward you until the
needle is above Ute needle plate.

Setting Selectofv$

« F’attern Selector; 1
« Stitch Widttr 0
® Stitch l ength; t.S-4 to suit fabric

A. Stitch Pattern Selector

rhe numbered stitch patterns on the

panel correspond to the numbers
around the stitch pattern selector.

To select a pattern, simply turn the
selector until the desired stitch pat
tern number is aligned with the
indicating line.

B. Stitch Width Selector

The stitch width selector must bo

pointed to 0 for straight stitching.

c

* M «?J» *:.* «Kv»

C. Adjusting Stitch Length

Tt)e stitch length selector controls the

length of stitches. The numbers

above the selector express stitch
lengtfi ir) rnm; the tower the rwmber.

the shorter the stitch.

Generally, shorter stitciies are best

for iightwciglit fabric, longer stitcties

for heavy fabric, Tiie area from 0 to 1

should be used for adjusting ¿'ig /.ag
satin stitches.

Setting the Selector

» Turft selector so that stitch length

selector is poifiterl to desired number.

® To shorten stitch length, turn selector

toward a lower number,

® To lengthen stitch length, turn seloc

tor toward a higher number.

18

Reverse Lever

For reverse stitching, depress re

verse lever located to the right of the
stitch pattern selector, hold down
until reverse stitching is completed.
Once lever is released, the machine
will sew in forward direction.

Note; Reverse stitching cannot be

done when using a stretch stitch
pattern.

Needle^Thread Tension

Correct tension is important be
cause too much or too little will
weaken your seams or cause your
fabric to pucker. Make a test sample
with the fabric and the thread you
plan to use and examine it. A well
balanced stitch, as shown in illustra
tion A, will have the needle and
bobbin threads locked between the
two layers of fabric with no loops on

top or bottom and no pucker. The
tension dial regulates the degree of
tension on your needle thread. Set it
according to the type of thread and
fabric you use. The numbers on the

dial eliminate guesswork.

If the fabric puckers B, decrease
tension. If the stitches in your test
sample look loose C, increase
needle-thread tension.

» To decrease tension, turn dial to

lower number.

® To increase tension, turn dial to

higher number.

Bobblri“Thread Tension

For information on adjusting bob

bin-thread tension, refer to page 15.

19

Sewing a Seam

» Pattern Selector; 1
« Stitch Width: 0
« Stitch l„ength; To suit fabric
® General Purpose Needle Plate

General Purpose Foot

1. F^aise presser foot. Pull thread back
under presser foot leaving at least 10
cm (4 inches) of thread.

2. Position needle approximately 1.3 cm
(1/2 inch) from fabric edge. Then

lower presser foot and backstitch

almost to the edge of the fabric for

reinforcement by stitching in reverse
direction. For additional information
on reverse stitching refer to page 19.
Stitch forward to end of seam and
stop machine before the end of
stitching line. (Do not sew beyond
edge of fabric).

CAUTION: Do not pull the fabric while

you are stitching as this may deflect the

noodle causing it to break.

3. f^aise needle by turning hand vdieel

toward you. Press reverse stitch push

lever, and back stitch 1.3 cm (1/2
inch) to reinforce end of stitching.

4. Raise needle by turning hand wheel

toward you. Raise foot and remove

fabric by drawing it to the back and

to the left. Cut threads on thread

cutter at rear of presser bar.

20

Keeping the Seam Straight

For extra help in keeping the seam
straight, you may wish to use the seam
guide, {.because it allows you to guide
stitches evenly between 1.3 cm (1/2
inch) and 3.2 cm (1-1/4 inches) from the
fabric edge, it is particularly useful for

very narrow or very wide seams.

CAUTION: Because of the up and down

movement of the needle, you rriust work
carefully and watch the sowing area
when operating the machine.

Applications

Zipper Inserllort

How the zipper is inserted will

depend on the type of garment and

the location of the zipper. With the
adjustable zipper foot, you will find
it easy to sew an even line of
stitching close to the zipper.

The zipper foot can be used either
to the left or right of the needle,

depending on where the bulk of the
garment is placed.

Adjusting the Zipper Foot

® Set machine for straight stitching.

® Attach the zipper foot as in

structed on page 5.

When the zipper is to the r/ghf of the

needle;

® Loosen the thumb screw at .the

back of the foot, and slide the
foot to the left of the needle.

e Check the position of the foot by

turning the hand wheel to tower
the needle into the side notch of
the foot, making sure it clears the

foot.'

9 Lock the foot into position by

tightening the thumb screw.

9 Lower presser bar. Make sure the

needle clears the foot on all sides
of the notch.

When the zipper is to the left of the
needle, adjust the foot to the right of
the needle in the same way.

21

Pattern Selector: 1
Stitch Length: 0
General Purpose Needle Plate
General Purpose Foot
Snap-in Feed Cover

Attach snap-in feed cover over feed
as instructed on page 6.

Select straight stitch, If area to be
darned is open, baste an underlay in
place.

Place area to be darned under
presser foot; lower presser foot and

start stitching, alternately drawing
fabric toward you and pulling gently

away from you.

Continue this forward and backward
motion as you fill the area with
parallel lines of stitching. For addi
tional strength, cover area with

crosswise lines of stitching.

Quilting is Uie art of stitching two or
more thicknesses of fabric together in a
planned design. A padding is stitched to
ttie underside of the fabric to produce a
soft, puffed effect that is becoming to
some wearing apparel and to many
fabric furnishings.

Preparing the Fabric

Baste a light padding of cotton flannel,
synthetic quilt batting, street wadding, or
a ligtrtweight wool interlining to the

underside of tire fabric. When using
sheet wadding, first back it with voile,

batiste, or net to preserve the sheet
wadding through wear. Baste the layers
of fabric and padding together of the

lengthwise and crosswise grains.
Basic Procedure

® Select straight stitch 1.
e Draw both threads under the foot and ■

diagonally across feed to left.

® Position the needle, tower the foot

and start stitclring.

22

4. Basic Zig-Zag Stitching

В

A

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xf. к

? 3 4 5 r> /

> л^ ^

!H!CO

S 9 В AC О

»•^г^лллллЛЛЛЛИ^

Adjusting Machine Stitch

to Suit Your Fabric

You can do functional as well as

decorative zig-zag stitching with

your sewing machine.

Setting Selectors

Stitch Pattern Selector

Before turning selector, make sure

needle is out of the fabric.

For plain zig-zag stitching:

® Turn pattern selector to stitch

pattern 1.

® Pattern Selector: 1
® Stitch Width: 1-5 to suit applica

tion

t «к» №• m «Я?П *г««| СЯЙКЙ* «SSS4¥H»

® Stitch Length: 1-4 to suit fabric

® General Purpose Needle Plate

0 General Purpose Foot

stitch Width Selector

Before turning selector, make sure

needle is out of the fabric.

To produce a plain zig-zag or a

decorative stitch, the stitch width

selector is turned from its straight

stitch position 0 to any of its other
five positions. The further you turn
the selector toward the right, the

wider your stitch will be.

23

¿L

Adjusting Needle-Thread

Tension

Zig-2ag stitching requires less
needle-ttiread tension than straight

stitching.

Make a test sample with the fabric
and thread you plan to use so that
you can adjust the tension properly.

The stitches should be flat against

the fabric without causing the fabric
to pucker.

If the stitches are not flat and the
fabric is puckered, lower the needle"
thread tension by turning the dial to
a lower number.

f M fe«M4 ««««« (

t

=.

Adjusting Stitch Length

Any stitch length setting from 1 to 4

will give you an open zig-zag stitch.

The higher the number, the more

open, or farther apart your stitches

will be.

The area between 0 and 1 on the

dial is used for the adjustment of
zig-zag satin stitching, a series of

closely spaced plain zig-zag stitches

that form a smooth, satin-like sur
face. (Refer to page 26 for informa
tion on satin stitching.)

24

Applications

Ungerle Seams

To make a lingerie seam durable and
flexible, use the plain zig-^ag stitch at a
narrow width setting. This seam treat­rnent is particularly suitable for bias

seams. When seaming nylon tricot,

insert a Style 2046 needle in the
mactiine.

» Straight stitch the seam on wrong

side of fabric.

» Press both seam allowances in the

same direction.

» From the right side, topstitch with

narrow zig-zag stitch, letting the
needle alternately enter the seam line
and the seam thickness.

Satin Stitching

Satin stitching, a series of closely
spaced zig-zag stitches that form a
smooth, satin-like finish, illustration A, is
useful for both practical and decorative

work. Decorative stitch patterns can be
sewn at satin-stitch length.

Set your machine for desired stitch.
Adjust stitch length for satin stitching:

stitch width in narrow to medium range.

Adjusting Stitch Length
® Run machine at slow speed,

e Gradrjally adjust stitch length from 4

toward 0 until stitches are closely
spaced and form a smooth surface.

Adjusting Upper Thread Tension
Satin stitching usually requires less
tension than straight stitching and open
zig-zag stitching. Furthermore, the wider
the satin stitch, the lighter the tension on
your thread must be. Notice the stitch
ing on your sample. If the fabric is
puckered, illustration B. or the lower
thread is pulled to the fabric surface,
lower the upper thread tension by
turning the dial to a lower number.

25

Appliqué

The stitch most commonly used in
applique is a plain /jg~'/ag, closely
spaced to form a satin stitch. The width
of this stitch can be varied to accom
modate fabrics of different weaves and
textures. Other stitch patterns can also
be used.

Preparation
Make a test sample to decide which of
the foltov/ing metfiods is the most

appropriate for your fabric and design.

Mark design on piece of fabric to be

appliguéd. Cut out design leaving about

2 cm (3./4 inch) margin all around.

Position the design. Baste it to the

fabric.

Method 1

e Select pattern and adjust stitch width

for desired applique stitch. Adjust
stitch length to fine setting, between
1 and 0.'

» Follow the outer edge of tiro design

v^ith a decorative stitcfi.

0 Trim av.'ay the excess fabric on the

outer edges of the stitching.

Method 2
e Select straight stitch,

0 Outline the entire desigrr with a sirort

stitch.

» Trim raw edges to the stitching and

remove basting.

e Select stitch pattern and stitch width

desired, and set stitch length on a
satin stitcii setting for a closely
spaced stitch, between 1 and 0.

e Stitch, following the straigfrt stitcfi

outline. This method will produce a

smooth overedged finish, witfr no raw

edges to be trimmed after stitching.

Method 3

e Purchased motifs can be appliguéd

quickly and easily by using eiUrer a
straigfit or decorative stitch.

26

» tt* Г««* Х4««4 iWSSSft.'*

Embroidery

Free-motlon Stitching

in tree-motion stitching, you sew vvitiv
out a presser foot and instead control
fabric movement (and hetice stitch

length) yourself, by means of an em
broidery ftoop. Either a straight or a zig
zag stitch setting can be used. Because
you can move the troop in any direc
tionforward

side, and even diagonally -frce-motion
stitching is extremely useful for intricate

embroidery designs.
If you are embroidering, you can vary

the length of stitches simply by moving

the hoop faster or slower. The faster you

move it, the more open the stitches will
be, Л slow hoop movement will produce

closely packed stitches. You can also
vary the width of the stitefres, from a
hairline to the full width of whatever
stitch width setting you have chosen,
simply by moving the hoop. If you move
it sideways and.stitch in a horizontal
line, you will get a hairline, if you move it
forward or backward and stitch in a
vertical line, you will get full stitch width,
Tfnis you can produce a ribbon-like
effect in script lettering or create deli 

cate flower designs. This takes practice,
but you can achieve some lovely effects
that look much like hand embroidery.
See following pages for specific direc

tions.

To Prepare for Free-motion Stitching

1. Have available an embroidery hoop
large enough to encompass the entire
design or area to be darned.

2. fternove presser foot.

3. Attach snap-in feed cover. See page 6

for directions.

4. Turn stitch length selector to the area

between 0-1.

or backward, from side to

27

Script Lettering

« Pattern Selector; 1
» Stitch Width Selector: 2-5
» Stitch Length: 0-1
« Snap“in Feed Cover
® Prosser Foot: None

If you wish to embroider a whole
name on a cfiild’s dross or sfiirt, for
example you can do so by free-motion
stitching.

1. Always make sample first, to find the

right stitch settings and spacing,

2. Trace or mark lettering on right side

of fabric.

3. If the fabric is soft or loosely woven,

add an under-lay of crisp lawn or
organdy.

4. Place work in embroidery hoop large
enough to encompass the entire work
design. Be sure fabric is held taut,

5. Position work under needle and lower
presser bar to engage tension.

6. Turn hand wheel toward you to bring
bobbin thread up through fabric at
start of design and hold both threads
to start stitching.

7. Stitch, following outline of lettering.
Maintain an even rate of speed so
that stitches are uniformly spaced.

To produce a close satin stitch, move
hoop slowly; to produce an open

stitch, move hoop more rapidly.

To shade the lettering, from wide to
narrow stitching, turn the work slight

ly so that you will be moving it at an
atigle as you stitch.

Floral Designs

fVopare the machine and your fabric in the same

way as for free-motion script lettoring. On your tost

sample, try out different stitch width seltings to
determine tho one or more best suited to your
design.
When filling in oullincs, place stitcties in parallel
lines, shifting the direction ol the hoop movement as
appropriate to the design. For a smooth satin stitch
that will catch the light, place the parallel stitches
close together, moving tlic hoop slowly and steadily.
For an irregular texture, move the hoop more
rapidly, allowing some stifcfies to overlap.

5. Machine Stitch Patterns

Setting Selectors

'< Ik <

I ? 3

<

; i

5 6

n JOi

5 3 ft AC o

In addition to straight stitch and zig 

zag stitch, your machine can pro

duce a variety of stitch patterns.

There are two types of stitch pat

terns built into your machine:

A. decorative stitch patterns, illus

tratcd at left, are produced by
side-to-side movement of the

needle.

<'

>

>

<

A

B. stretch stitch patterns, illustrated

at left, arc produced by both the
side-to-side movement of the

needle and the back-and-forth

movement of the feed.

Refer to chart on page 32 for further
information on machine settings and

applications for the stitch patterns
on your machine.

B

29

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a AC o

Selecting a Pattern

Before moving stitch pattern selec

make sure needle is abovetor,

fabric.
When you turn the stitch pattern

selector, one of eleven stitch

patterns is available to you. Turn

stitch width selector to 0. Then

rotate the pattern selector until the

desired stitch pattern number is

aligned with indicating line.

Adjusting Stitch Length

When you are preparing to do
pattern stitching, make a test sample
with the fabric and thread you plan
to use so that you can adjust the
stitch length correctly.

» «C* «4 «4 l^i» *««♦ »:«««<« K4№»>

Any stitch length setting from 1 to 4
will give you an open stitch pattern
of whichever decorative stitch pat­tern you select. The higher the

number, the more open, or farther
apart, your stitch will be. The area
between 0 and 1 of the selector is
used for the fine adjustment of satin
stitching.

For stretch stitch patterns, stitch
length is controlled with the setting
4 on the panel. Simply rotate the
selector until the selector is posi
tioned at 4.

Adjusting Width of the Design

Before turning stitch width selector,

always raise needle above fabric.

To produce a stitch pattern, the

stitch width selector must be turned
from 0 toward a higher number. The
higher you turn the dial, the wider
your stitch will be.

on

.V.VVSV.SSW/

Adjusting Stitches for

Stretch Fabrics

Guiding and Supporting Fabric

Most fabrics of stretch or knit

construction need only to be guided

in front of the pressor foot when you

use one of the stretch stitches.

Some fabrics-nylon tricot and

ciasticii'ed fabrics, for example- do

require support while being stitched.

1. For nylon tricot and similar syn

thetic knits, apply gentío tension
by holding the seam in front and
back of the presser foot as you

sew.

2. For elasticized fabric, stretch lace,
and knits with an unusual amount
of elasticity, apply firm tension in

front and back of the presser foot
to stretch the seam as the stitches
are being placed.

CAUTION: Do not pull the fabric

while you are stitching as this may
deflect the needle, causing it to
break.

31

stitch Pattern Chart

SIraight Stitch: Used for general
purpose sev/ing, seaming and top­stitching.

Zig-zag Stitch: Used for general
purpose sewing, bar tacks, finishing
scams, embroidery and applique.

Maxi—Topstitch: For bold top-

stitetring on sporty garments.

Shell-Tuck Stitch: i.ised for sheli­tucK and hem finishes.

Honeycomb Stitch: Ideal for
smocking and useful for mending,
overcasting and attaching elastic

and stretch lace.

Ovorecige Stretch Stitch; Used for

joining and overodging seams in

knit and stretch fabrics in one

operation.

2

Ric Rac Stitch: I or heavy duty
general-purpose sewing, arid bold
topstitching on sporty garments.

Crescent Stitch: Ltseful for orna
mental borders and edges.

2

<:

Blindstifclr For finishing iicms and
making iaddor seams.

Banner Stitch: Perfect for orna

mental borders and edges.

3

<r.

Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag: Lots you

>

, »

mend, join and reinforce without
bulk Ideal for bar tacking.

Buttonholes: Used for making
buttonholes.

U

AC b

t These are the stretch stitch patterns on your sewing machine. A slow stitching speed is

recommended for sewing stretch stitch patterns. This stitch is designed for strength and

permanence and can not readily be ripped out without risk of fabric damage.

Applications

Blindstitch

Biindstitching provides a durable
hem finish that is almost invisible.

Blindstitch Hems

® Pattern Selector: 5
® Stitch Width: 1.5-5

® Stitch Length: 1 to 2.5

® General Purpose Needle Plate
« General Purpose Foot

We recommend making a test sam

ple first using scraps of the material
you will be sewing the hem on.

a Select the blindstitch,

1. Prepare hem in the usual way. It

is advisable to baste the hem.

2. With the wrong side of work
uppermost, turn the hem under,

creating a soft fold from the top
edge of hem.

3. F^osition the hem under ttie
presser foot. Stitch so that the

straight stitches fall on the hem

allowance and the sideward

stitches pierce the soft fold of the
work. Adjust stitch width, if neces

sary.

MuIti”Stitch Zig-Zag

The multi-stitch zig-zag is an extremely

versatile stitch. Use it to mend, join, or

reinforce without bulk. With this stitch
you may attach elastic and stretch lace,
construct lingerie and swimsuits,, and
finish seams. There are many other
useful applications for the multi-stitch

zig-zag.

Mending a Tear
® Pattern Selector: 4

® Stitch Width: to suit application or

fabric

® Stitch Length: to suit application or

fabric

® General Purpose Needle Plate
® General Purpose Foot

® Trim ragged edges.
® Place underlay on the wrong side of

tear for reinforcement. Baste one side
of underlay in place.

9 Stitch on the ri^ht side, bringing the

edges of the tear together. Shorten
stitch length at ends and corners to
give extra strength.

Finishes for Hems and Facings
Hem and facing edges in knit and

stretch fabrics will be less apt to press

through and mark when given a flat

edge-finish. Edge finishing with the

multi-stitch zig-zag eliminates the bulk

of turned-in edges and retains fabric
flexibility.

e Make a test sample to check thread

tension and stitch length if you are
using the multi-stitch zig-zag.

« Place stitching about 1.3 cm (1/2

inch) from hem or facing edge. Avoid

stretching edge while sewing.

9 Press after stitching and trim away

excess fabric close to the stitching
line.

Honeycomb Stitch

The honoycornb stitch is ideal for

smocking and it is useful for

mending, overcasting and attaching
lingerie elastic, stretch lace and
blanket binding. Use this versatile

stitch to create decorative designs

on fabrics that stretch.

Replacing Lingerie Elastic

0 Pattern Selector; 6

0 Stitch Width: 5

® Stitcfi Length: 3-4

0 General Purpose Needle f*late

0 General Purpose Foot

0 {'it elastic for desired snugness at

waistline, allowing ?.5 cm (I inch)
for joining. Lap ends to form a
band and stitch together as
shown using a Style 2045 needle,

0 Divide elastic band into four

equal segments and mark with

pins. Do the same to the garment,
li'ien pin together at (;orre
spending points, pinning elastic
over right side of fabric, top

edges even.

® Sew a few straight stitches to

anchor elastic to fabric.

0 vSeloct honeycomb,
0 Then hold elastic and garmetd

edge taut as you stitch so that it
will remain stretchable after
stitching is completed.

CAUTION: Do not pull iho fabric

while you arc stitching as this may

deflect the needle, causing it to

break.

35

Applications

Overedge Stretch Stitch

Although the overedge stretch stitch
may be used creatively, it is pri
marily applied in finishing seams,
hems, and facing edges. Use it to

overedge seams that require stretch
such as crotch seams. It is partic
ularly helpful in skisuit, snowsuit
and swimsuit construction. Exam
ples of how to use the overedge
vStretch stitch follow.

Overedged Seams

» Pattern Selector; 7
« Stitch Width: 5
® Stitch Length; 4
« General Purpose Needle Plate
» General Purpose Foot

Method 1

Make a test sample to determine the

suitability of an overedge seam
finish for your garment. Duplicate

the grain or direction of knit of your

garment seam. Adjust thread ten

sion to suit fabric. Use an appropri

ate Style 2045 needle in the machine
for a knit. (See Fabric, Thread and

Needle Table on page 10.)

« Baste the garment together on

the seam line allowing for 1.5 cm
(6/8 inch) seam allowance and fit

in the usual way.

• After making any necessary ad

justments. trim seam edge evenly

to a scant 5 mm (1/4 inch) from

seam line basting.

« Place trimmed seam under the

foot so that the straight stitches
fall on the basted seam line and
zig-zag stitches fall over the seam

edge.

36

Mock Overedge

This finish is appropriate for bulky

knits, fine tricots and fabrics that

curl or fray.

Method 2

® Make a test sample.
® Baste the garment together on

the seam line and fit in the usual
way.

After making any necessary ad

justments, suggested in Method

1, place seam under grosser foot.
Stitch so that the stitches on the

left side of the pattern penetrate
the basted seam line.

® Press after stitching and trim

away excess fabric to produce, a

narrow seam edge. When the
seam supports the garment, omit
the trimming step and press seam
open in the usual way.

Overedged Seam Finish

® Pattern Selector: 7
® Stitch Width: S
® Stitch Length: 3-4
® General Purpose Needle Plate
® General Purpose Foot

o Trim seam edges evenly.
9 Place stitching over the trimmed

edge of the seam allowance as
illustrated.

37

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Monograms

Many of the machine stitch patterns can
be used for monograms or motifs for
adding a personal touch to a blouse
collar, for example, or for initialing
household lines. You can buy

designs or create them yourself.

To Stitch a Monogram or Motif

Pattern Selector: 8

See chart for machine stitch
patterns

Stitch Width: 2 through 5
Stitch Length: 0~1
General Purpose Needle Plate
General Purpose Foot

1. Make a sample first, to determine
suitability of stitch pattern and find
the right stitch length and width,
thread tension.

2. Transfer the design (by tracing,

us(ialiy) to the right side of the fabric.

3. If the fabric is soft or loosely woven,
baste a backing of lawn or organdy

onto the wrong side.

4. After stitching, trim the backing close

to the stitch.

To find the beginning of the pattern unit
When you use machine stitch patterns in

f

»

a motif, always start stitching at the

beginning of a pattern unit A that is, at
the beginning of the crescent, or what

ever pattern you are using. To find the

beginning;

1. On a scrap of material, stitcli until

you come to the end of a complete
pattern unit. Now you are ready to
start stitching at the beginning of the

next unit.

2. Raise presser foot and remove scrap.

3. F^osition motif under needle; lower

pressor foot; and stitcit.

\

38

Shell-Tuck Stitch

Used for sheil-tuck and hem finisfios,
as well as for sowing and overcasting.

Shell-Tuck
« Pattern Selector: 5

® Stitch Width: 3-5
« Stitch Length: 3-4
® General Purpose Needle Plate
« General Purpose Foot

Make a test on a sample of your
fabric to find the right thread
tension, stitch length and stitch

width.

ce folded hem (basted if

necessary) or bias fold under

presser foot, with hem or fold

toward the right.

« Stitch slowly, guiding fabric by

hand so that the sideward stitches

do not pierce the folded edge.

Banner SUtch

A decorative pattern for ornamental
borders and edges, top-stitching

and twin-needle work.

Top Stitching
A practical, simple way to accent the

lines of a dress or coat is to place
one or more rows of stitching along
collars, lapels, facing edges, pockets,

seams, etc. For a tailored look use
linos of plain straight stitching. For
decorative interest, use the banner
stitch.

39

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Decorative stitching

Your sowing machine has several

stitches which are purely decorative.

These versatile stitches allow you to
add imagination and creativity to
your sewing projects. With these
decorative stitches, you can apply to
clothes and household items:
interesting details, youthful and
feminine accents, and personalized
effects. Some of the many applica
tions of the decorative stitches
include border designs, appliques,
twin-needle stitching, finished hems,
smocking, embroidering, monograms

and topstitching accent lines on
clothes. The following pages illus
trate decorative stitches on your

machine and provide examples for
their creative use.

Border Design

Border designs that add a decorative
touch to wearing apparel and
household items can be created by
combining different types of straight
stitching and zig-zag stitching.
Simple or elaborate, delicate or
bold, they can be varied to suit tlic

application. Use them as you would
a braid or to simulate horizontal,

vertical or bias stripes on plain
fabric.

Procedure

Mark or crease fabric for the centre
line of first row of stitching. If

spacing between rows is not greater

than 1.3 cm (1/2 inch), gauge

additional rows with the presser

foot. If spacing is wider, mark for

each line of stitching. Use a backing
of crisp lawn, organdy or a fusible
interfacing. Be sure to make a te.st
sample on a swatch of your fabric to
check stitch settings and thread
tension, being sure to duplicate
thickness and interfacing or backing
if appropriate.

/in

' j ■ :■■. 'i:;

Smocking

Smocking is a youthful decorativo
detail that is particularly charming
when used for a yoke, insert or band
on baby clothes, little girls' dresses,
or lingerie.

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When worked by hand, smocking is
a time consuming process. However,

the heavy-stitched look, typical of
hand work, can be accomplished

quickly and easily with your

machine when you use decorative
patterns.

Procedure

A test sample is always advisable to
check stitch settings. Be sure to use

the same fabric and degree of

fullness you plan for garment.
® Set tension dial between 0 and I.
o Space rows of straight stitching

with stitch length on 4 (maximum

length), 6 mm (1/4 inch) apart, on

the crosswise fabric grain.

« Pul! up evenly, gathering for the

amount of fullness desired.
Secure thread ends by tying
knots close to the fabric to
prevent gathers from pullting out
of position.

® Baste section to be smocked to

underlay.

® Stitch over and between rows of

gathering with decorative stitching.
Creíate your own design or adapt

the ones illustrated. Use thread

that contrasts with or matches

your fabric, depending on the

'A desired.

41

6. Buttonholes

Buttonholes

Your new machine comes complete
with a built-in four-step buttonhole
system. Before sewing on your
garment, always make a test but
tonhole duplicating the number of

thicknesses of fabric and interfac

ing, if appropriate.

Garment Preparation

Buttonhole Position

Accurate guidelines are essentia! to
keep buttonholes at a uniform dis

tance from ttie edge of the garment,
evenly spaced, and on the grain of
the fabric,

1. Mark the centre line on the gar

ment. This guideline can be made

by machine or hand basting or
using tailor's chalk.

Be sure that the space from the

centre line to the finished edge of

the garment is at least equal to
three-quarters the diameter of the
button. With this spacing, the button
will not extend beyond the edge

when the garment is buttoned.

Make sure that the centre line
marking follows a lengthwise fabric

thread.

A. Centre Line
B. Buttonhole •
C. Finished Edge of Garment
D. Distance of Button

42

c

2, Mark a position guideline for each

buttonhole.

Horizontal buttonholes A are placed
to extend 3 mm (1/8 inch) beyond
the centre line B of the garment, as
shown, so that the buttons will be in
the centre of the figure when the
garment is fastened.

Horizontal buttonliole guidelines
should follow a crosswise fabric
thread.

® Mark the horizontal buttonhole

guideline for each buttonhole. It
should be longer than the fin
ished length of the buttonhole,

® Mark the starting poira for each

buttonhole 3 mm (1/8 inch) be
yond the centre line (see illustra
tion).

Verlical buttonholes C are placed so
that the centre line B of the garment

is in the centre of the buttonhole, as

shown.
® Mark the ends of each buttonhole

horizontally across the centre line

basting and use the centre line

marking as the buttonhole guide
when stitching.

Buttonhole Length

® The buttonhole length should be

just tong enough to allow the
button to slip through the open
ing without stretching it.

® Buttonhole length is not auto

matically gauged with the button
hole foot. It is necessary to

estimate the length by measuring
the width plus thickness of the

button.

« To make sure ttie measurement is

correct, cut a slit in a scrap of
fabric equal to the diameter of the
button you intend to use.

» Increase length of openirig until

button slips through easily.

Four-Step Buttonholing

® Pattern Selector: As illustrated
® Stitch Width; 3»5 to suit fabric
® Stitch Length: F to 3
® General Purpose Needle Plate

® Buttonhole Foot

Preparation

® Attach buttonhole foot to the

machine. Refer to page 5 for addi
tional information on changing
presser feet.

1. Raise presser foot lifter. Hold
upper thread lightly with left hand

and turn hand wheel slowly
toward you until needle enters the
plate.

BE CAREFUL THAT YOU DO
NOT RUN THE MACHINE DUR
ING THIS PROCEDURE.

Continue turning hand wheel and
holding upper thread until needle
rises. Tighten your hold on upper

thread and bring up lower thread

in a loop. Release upper thread.
Slide scissors between foot A and

plate B and draw both upper and
lower threads diagonally toward
the back of the foot, leaving

approximately 10 cm (4 inches) of
thread.

® Set machine according to above

code.

AA

2. Place fabric with buttonhole
marking lines under foot. Align
bar tack marking line C with

notches on the solid white section

of foot D.

Four“Step Buttonholing

Procedure

Step A: Bar Tack

Turn pattern selector to AC. With
buttonhole foot properly positioned,
as described on ttio previous page,
position needle in fabric at point 1.
Take at least four stitches ending at
point 2.

Step B: Side Stitching

Raise needle above the fal.)ric by

turning hand wheel toward you.

Turn pattern selector to B. Stitch to
the end of the buttonhole. Stop
stitching at point 3.

Step C: Bar Tack

Raise needle above fabric. Turn

pattern selector back to AC. Take at

least four stitches ending at point 4.

Step D: Side Stitching

Raise needle above fabric. Turn
pattern selector to the right to D.
Stitch to the end of buttonhole.

« Remove work. Using a hand

sowing needle, bring threads to
underside of fabric. Fasten and
trim thread ends.

45

7. Twin-Needle Stitching

The twin-needle simultaneously pro
duces two parallel, closely spaced lines
of decorative stitchificj. You can stitch
with either one or two colours of thread.

A twin-needle, No. 2024. is supplied with
your sewing machine accessories. Extra
twin-needles may b e pu rc ha se d s ep 

ara tel y at your local Sewing Centre.

e Pattern Selector: Stitch desired
e Stitch Width; 2 only!
* Stitch Length; .5-4 to suit fabric

0 General Purpose Ne ed le Plate

» General Purpose Foot

tCAUTtON: Do not uso a stitch width greater

______________

than what is recommended. A wider stitch
will result in needle breakage.

Procedure
» Insert twin-needle.

» Attach detachable spool pin to machine

top cover in hole A.

« Place second spool of thread on de

tachable spool pin.

» Thread as for single needle stitching,

using ttie two tlireads, making certain to
omit One thread from the thread guide
above ihe needle, as illustrated.

• Place one ttiread through each needle
eye.

46

1 TE Ml

Mil

.............

Иг-’:

..

.

Fabric handling, when sewing tubular
and trard to reach garment areas, is
simplified when you convert your sew
ing mactrine to free-arm sowing. Some
of the sewing jobs for which you will
find tfre free-arm particularly useful are
shown below. You wilt discover marry
more for yourself.

Preparation

« Fo convert machine to free-arm

sewing, simply lift the extension bed
up and slide the extension bed off the

machine, as illustrated.

« To convert machine back to flat bed

sewing, simply slide extension bed
onto the base of the machine and
snap down into place.

1. Sleeves

Free-arm sewing takes the difficulty
out of topstitching a sleeve. The arm
hole rotates smoothly under the
treedic so that you can place stitching
accurately, ihe extra control afforded

by the free arm is especially helpful
for topstitching flat-felled seams.

2. Bar Tacks

Bar tacks reinforce areas of strain
and can be applied to ready-made
garments, as well as to those sewn at
home. Use the free-arm surface to
avoid fabric bulk around the needle
wherr you apply this detail to pockets,
plackets, and waistlines.

3. Darning and Mending

Knees, elbows and other areas of
wear in children’s clothes such as
sweaters, jackets and shorts become

readily accessible for darning, mend
ing or patching when the free-arm
surface is used. The sewing surface
fits inside the enclosed sleeve and leg

areas, making it unnecessary to open
seams or roll the garment.

47

9. Performance Checkfist

Whenever sewing difficulty is encountered, review the section of the
instruction book that explains the operation you are performing to make
sure you are using the machine correctly. If the problem still exists, the
following checklist may help you to correct it.

If you still have difficulties, call your nearest Sewing Centre.

What To Do If:

Needle Breaks

Make sure...

« needle is fully inserted into

needle clamp

...........................

® needle is not being pulled to

one side as fabric is removed

from the machine ...................... 20

» presser foot or accessory

is securely fastened to
presser bar

..................................

» fabric is not being pulled

while sewing, causing needle
to hit needle plate

Thread Breaks

....................

Make sure...

« machine is properly threaded 16

« needle-thread tension is not

too tight

...................................

19

® thread is unwinding freely

from spool

.................................

® bobbin case area is free of

lint and loose thread ends 60

Machine Is Noisy or Sluggish

Make sure...

® bobbin case and feed area

are free of lint and loose

thread ends

Fabric does not Feed Properly

...............................

Make sure...

® presser foot or accessory is

correctly attached to

machine

.......................................

6

5

31

13

50

6

« stitch length selector is

correctly set

..............................

« lint has not accumulated

around feed

Skipped Stitches

...............................

Make sure...

« needle is correct style for

machine and size for

thread .................................. 10, 11

® machine is correctly

threaded ................................... 16

» needle is securely fastened

to needle bar ................................ 6

Fabric Puckers

Make sure...

® needle-thread tension is not

too tight ...................................... 19

Needle Thread Breaks while Wind

ing Bobbin

Make sure...

® machine is correctly

threaded ..................................... 16

« thread is unwinding freely

from spool

Thread does not wind onto bobbin

.................................

Make sure...

® bobbin winder spindle is

pushed to right

.........................

18

50

13

13

48

10. Caring for Your Machine

Cleaning and Oiling Your

Machine

CAUTION: Before cleaning your

machine, disconnect power tine
plug from your socket outlet.

Periodically, depending on usage,

clean and oil your machine as

follows, using one drop of oil on

areas indicated.

® To Interior Areas

To clean and oil top of machine,
remove top pover. Using a largo
screwdriver, remove screws A and
B. Periodically, apply a drop of oil
only to areas indicated, after

cleaning.

To replace top cover, align it over

screw holes A and B. Using a

large screwdriver, replace screws

A and B.

® Face Plate Area

To clean and oil the front interior

of machine, loosen and remove
the screw C located on rear of
face plate, then guide face plate

out of machine.
To replace face plate, align spring

D with latch E and position light
switch into hole F. Guide spring
into latch and slightly move up
face plate; replace screw and

tighten.

49

Removing the Bobbin Case

CAUTION: Before removing bobbin

case, disconnect the power-line
plug from the socket outlet.

® Bobbin Case Holder

To clean and oil bobbin case

holder;

e Turn hand wheel until needle is at

highest position.

« Open hook cover, or draw slide

plate toward you.

1. Remove bobbin case and open
latches A and B, as shown. For

more information on removing
and replacing bobbin case, refer
to pages 14 and 15.

2. Remove part C and part D of

Bobbin Case Holder, as shown.

3. Clean and oil areas indicated by

arrows.

4. To replace bobbin case holder,
insert part D with spindle E up, as

shown.

5. Then fit part C into place with flat

side up, as removed.

6. Close latches A and B over part

C
® Close hook cover or slide

plate.

® Bobbin and Feed Areas

To clean and oil bobbin and feed

areas, remove needle plate, as

instructed on page 7. Using soft

cloth or brush, clean. Replace

needle plate, as instructed on
page 7.

6

® Exterior Areas

if necessary, a mild solution of
soap and water may be used on
exterior areas to remove stubborn
stains. No other cleaning liquid or
powder should be used.

KO

4022

B

CAUTION: Before cleaning your

machine, disconnect power lino
plug from your socket outlet.

Interior Feed Area — 4022

To clean and oil inside feed area,
remove cover. Using a large screw

driver, remove screws A and B.

Periodically apply a drop of oil only

to areas indicated after cleaning.

Interior Feed Area — 4012
To clean and oil feed area, tilt
machine on Its side, and periodically

apply a drop of oil only to indicated
areas.

Apply a few drops of oil to oiling

points, and with presser foot up, run

machine for a few minutes. Then

wipe up any excess oil

CAUTION: Do not attempt to adjust

the motor belt. Contact your nearest
Service Centre should any adjust
ment be required.

4012

51

Changing the Light Bulb

CAUTION: Before changing light

bulb make sure you have discon
nected power-line plug from socket
outlet.

This machine is designed to use a
15-watt maximum bulb only.

For US, and Canada—

«• Remove face plate (see page 49).

« Do not attempt to unscrew the

bulb.

® Press it up into the socket and at

the same time turn bulb in direc
tion shown to uniock the bulb pin
and guide out of socket.

® Press new bulb into socket, with

bulb pin entering slot of socket.

® Turn it iri opposite direction to

lock bulb in position.

® Replace face plate (see page 49).

For All Other Territories—
» Remove face plate (see page 49).

® Unscrew bulb to left as indicated.
® Guide bulb out of socket.
® Place new bulb into socket.
® Screw bulb to right until finger

tight.

® Replace face plate (see page 49).

52

Index

Accessories

Applique ......................................... 26

Backtacking ................................... 19

Blindstitch Hems ........................... 33

Bobbin

Raising Thread
Removing the Bobbin Case 14
Replacing the Bobbin Case 16

Tension ....................................... 15

Threading the Bobbin Case 14

Winding ....................................... 13

Bobbin Case
Buttonholing
Caring for the Machine . 49--61

Connecting the Machine .... 12

Darning ........................................... 22

Embroidery
Fabric, Thread and

Needle Table
Fabric Weight Table
Finishes for Hems and

Facings ....................................... 34

Free-Arm Se\A/ing
Light Bulb

Light Switch ................................... 12

Lingerie Seams

Machine Stitch Patterns ..... 29

Mending
Monograms
Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag

Needle ... 4, 6, 7, 19. 24, 25. 46

Changing

Plate .............................................. 7

Thread Tension
Threading

....................................

...............................

..........................

...............

...........................

....................................

.....................

.................... 8.

........................

......................................

.....

......................

.........................................

..................................

.................

......................................

....................

...................................

4, 13, 14

2, 3, 14, 15

10 11

4

17

42".45

27

9

47

52

25

34

38

32, v34

6

19, 24

16

Operating the Machine
Overedge Seams
Overedge Stretch Stitch .. 32, 36

Pattern Selection
Performance Checklist

Presser Feet ........................ 4, 5

Presser Foot Lever
Principal Parts

Quilting ........................................... 22

Reverse Lever
Satin Stitching

Script Lettering .............................. 28

Seam Guide
Sewing a Seam
Sewing Light

Snap-in Feed Cover

Stitch Length .... 18, 24, 25, 30

Stitch Pattern Chart

Stitch Pattern Selector

...................

Stitch Width ..................... 18. 23 30

Stretch Fabric Stitch

Adjustment ................................ 31

Tension
Threading the Machine ... 16, 46

Twin-Needle Stitching ................... 46

Zig-Zag Stitching
Zipper insertion

....................

...........................

............

.............................

....................

...............................

........................

..............................

.......................

2, 3, 18. 23. 29, 30

...................

..........................

.................

23, 29, 30

.................

..................

2, 3, 19

4, 6, 20
2, 3, 62

..................

......................

................

15, 19, 24, 25

23—41

21

12
36

48

2, 3
2, 3

25

20

4, 6

32

Printed in Taiv/an

53