Perkins Engine 4.108, 4.107, 4.99 Service Manual

workshop
manual for

4.108

4.107 and

4.99

diesel engines

©

Perkins Engines Limited

Peterborough England

1983

All

Rights

Reserved

Publication

No.

601

SER 0383 1072

This

publication

supersedes

the

previous

edition

numbered

601 SER 12771072

This

publication

is

written

for

world

wide

use. In

territories

where

legal

requirements

govern

smoke emission,

noise, safety

factors

etc., then all instructions,

data

and

dimensions

given must be

applied

in such a way that,

after

servicing

(preventive

maintenance)

or

repairing an engine,

it

does

not

contravene

the

local

regulations

in use.

Published

by

the

Technical Publications

Department

of

Perkins Engines

Ltd.

and Printed in England

by

Warners (Midlands) pic

Page 2

I

PERKINS

COMPANIES

I AUSTRALIA

Perkins Engines Australia Pty. Ltd.

I
I
I
I

I
I
I
I
I

I
I

I
I
I
I
I

I
I

FRANCE

GERMANY

ITALY

JAPAN

SINGAPORE

UNITED KINGDOM

U.S.A.

Suite 2,

364

Main Street, Mornington

3931,

Victoria, Australia.

Telephone:

597

51877.

Telex: Perkoil

AA30816.

Fax:

597

58793.

Moteurs Perkins S.A.
9-11 Avenue Michelet,

93583

Saint Ouen, Cedex, France.

Telephone:

(1)

40104200.

Telex:

642924F.

Fax:

(1)

40104245.

Perkins Motoren G.m.b.H.
8752

Kleinostheim, Postfach

1180,

West

Germany.

Telephone: Kleinostheim

6027

5010.

Telex:

4188869A

PER

D.

Fax:

6027

501124.

Motori Perkins S.p.A.

Via Soc rate 8,

22070

Casnate con Bernate (Como), Italy.

Telephon: (031)

452332.

Telex:

380658

Perkit

I.

Fax: (031)

452335.

Massey Ferguson Perkins Engines K.K.
Reinanzaka Building,

6th

Floor, 14-2 Akasaka, 1-chome, Minato-ku,

Tokyo

107,

Japan.

Telephone: (03)

5867377.

Telex: Perkoil

J2424823.

Fax: (03)

582-1596.

Perkins Engines Asia Pacific,
4 Kian Teck Drive, Singapore

2262.

Telephone:

2656333/2653223.

Telex Perkoil RS37729. Fax:

2641188.

Perkins Engines Limited,
Eastfield, Peterborough,

PE1

5NA, England.

Telephone:

(0733)

67474.

Telex

32501

Perken

G.

Fax:

(0733)

582240.

Perkins Engines (Shrewsbury) Limited,
Sentinel Works, Shrewsbury

SY1

4DP, England.

Telephone:

(0743)

52262.

Telex:

35171/2

PESL

G.

Fax:

(0743)

69911.

Perkins Engines Inc.,
1700

Bellemeade Court, Lawrenceville, Georgia

30245,

U.S.A.

Telephone:

404

822

3000.

Telex:

544141

Perken Law. Fax:

4048223006.

Perkins Engines Latin America Inc.,
Suite

620,999

Ponce de Leon Boulevard, Coral Gables, Florida

33134,

U.S.A.

Telephone:

305

442

7413.

Telex:

32501

Perken

G.

Fax:

305

442

7419.

In addition

to

the above, there are Perkins

distributors

in

most

countries. Perkins Engines Ltd., Peterborough

or

one

of

the

above

companies can give details.

Page 3

FOREWORD

This

workshop

manual has been

compiled

for

use in

conjunction

with

normal

workshop

practice.

Mention

of

certain

accepted

practices

therefore, has been purposely

omitted

in

order

to

avoid

repetition.
Reference to renewing

joints

and cleaning off

joint

faces has to a

great

extent

been

omitted

from

the text, it being understood

that

this will be

carried

out

where

applicable.

Similarly,

it

is

understood

that

in reassembly and inspection, all parts are

to

be

thoroughly

cleaned

and where present,

burrs

and scale are to be removed.

It

follows

that any open ports

of

high

precision components, e.g., fuel

injection

equipment,

ex-

posed

by

dismantling, will be

blanked

off until reassembled, to prevent the

ingress

of

foreign

matter.

: When setscrews

or

studs are fitted into holes which are

tapped

through

into

the

inside

of

: the engine, a

suitable

sealant must be used on the threads.

Throughout

this manual, whenever the

"left"

or

"right"

hand side

of

the

engine

is

referred

to, it is

that

side

of

the

engine

as viewed from the flywheel end.

The

engine

number

is stamped on the fuel

pump

mounting

flange

as shown in

the

above

illustration.

Three systems

of

engine

numbering

have been used.

On

very early engines the serial

number

consisted

of

seven

digits

as

follows

:-

Engine Type

Typical

Engine

Number

4.108 7300269

4.107 7100399

4.99 7000251

Identification

on these

engines

can be

identified

by

cbserving

the

first

two

figures

of

the

engine

number

which

remain

constant

depending

on

engine

type.

With

later

engines, the

number

consisted

of

figures

and

letters

Engine Type

Typical

Engine

Number

4.108 108U251

4.107 107U251

4.99 99U251

The first

figures

represent the

capacity

of

the

engine

in

cubic

inches,

the

letter

"U"

signifies

that

the

engine

was

built

in the

United

Kingdom

and

the

last

group

of

figures

comprises

the engine

serial number.
On

current

engines, the

number

can

consist

of

up

to

fifteen

letters

and

figures, a typical

number

being ED21512U510256D

Page4

~

Safety precautions

THESE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ARE IMPORTANT. Reference must also be made to the local
regulations in the country of operation.

Do not use these engines in marine applications.

Do

not

change the specification

of

the engine.

Do

not

smoke when you

put

fuel in the tank.

Clean away any fuel which has fallen and move material which has fuel contamination to a safe
place.

Do

not

put

fuel in the tank during engine

operation

(unless really necessary).

Never clean, lubricate

or

adjust the engine

during

operation (unless you have had the

correct

training when extreme caution must be used to prevent

injury).
Do not make any adjustments you do not understand.
Ensure the engine is not in a position to cause a concentration of toxic emissions.
Persons in the area must be kept clear during

engine

and equipment

or

vehicle operation.

Do not permit loose clothing

or

long

hair

near parts which move.

Keep away from parts which turn during operation. Note that fans can

not

be seen clearly while

the engine is run.
Do not run the engine with any safety guards removed.
Do not remove the radiator cap while the

engine

is hot and the

coolant

is

under

pressure as

dangerous

hot

coolant

can be discharged.

Do

not

use salt water in the cooling system

or

any

other

coolant which can cause corrosion.

Keep sparks

or

fire away from batteries (especially during charge)

or

combustion can occur.

The battery fluid can burn and is also dangerous to the skin and especially the eyes.
Disconnect the battery terminals before you make a repair to the electrical system.
Only one person must be in control of the engine.

Ensure the engine is only operated from the

control

panel

or

operators position.

If your skin comes into

contact

with high pressure fuel,

get

medical assistance immediately.

Diesel fuel can cause skin damage to some persons. Use protection on the hands (gloves

or

special skin protection

solutions).

Do

not

move equipment unless the brakes are in

good

condition.

Ensure that the transmission drive control is in

"Out

of

Drive"

position

before the engine is

started.
Fit only

correct

Perkins Parts.

CONTENTS

ENGINE VIEWS

TECHNICAL DATA

OPERATING AND MAINTENANCE

FAULT FINDING

CYLINDER HEAD

PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS

CYLINDER BLOCK AND LINERS

CRANKSHAFT AND MAIN BEARINGS

TIMING CASE AND DRIVE

TIMING

LUBRICATING SYSTEM

COOLING SYSTEM

AIR CLEANERS AND FUEL SYSTEM

FLYWHEEL AND HOUSING

ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT

ENGINES

FOR

REFRIGERATION UNITS

APPROVED LUBRICATING OILS

APPROVED SERVICE TOOLS

INDEX

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

J

K

L

M

N

P

Q

R

Appendix

Page 5

Page 6

EXAMPLES

OF

SERVICE

FACILITIES

Service

If any problems

occur

with

your

engine

or

the components fitted to it,

your

Perkins

distributor

can make the necessary repairs and will ensure that only the

correct

parts are fitted and

that

the

work

is

done

correctly.

Certain

components

can be supplied by

your

Perkins

distributor

through

the Perkins

Power

exchange

system. These will enable you to red uce the

cost

of

some repairs.

Extended Warranty

The

engine

warranty period can be extended to

two

years. For details,

get

in

contact

with

your

nearest Perkins

distributor.

Service Literature

Users handbooks and other service

publications

are available from

your

Perkins

distributor

at a

nominal cost.

Training

Local training on

correct

engine operation,

overhaul

and service is available

at

some Perkins

distributors. If

special

training is needed,

your

Perkins

distributor

can give

details

on

how

to

get

this at the

Product

Education Department, Peterborough,

or

other main centres.

SECTION A

Engine

Views

ENGINE

VIEWS-A.2

Index to Engine Views

Dynamo Pulley

2 Water

Pump

Pulley

3 Water

Outlet

4

Exhaust

Manifold

5

Breather

6

Atomiser

7

Thermostat

Housing

8 Fuel

Injection

Pump

9 Starter

Motor

10

Lubricating

Oil

Filter

11

Timing Pin

12

Crankshaft

Pulley

13

Timing

Case

14 Fan

Belt

15 Water

Pump

16

Cylinder

Head Cover

17

Fuel Oil

Filter

18 Starting

Aid

19

Induction

Manifold

20 Oil Filter

21

Dipstick
22 Dynamo
23 W?ter

Inlet

24

Lubricating

Oil Pump

Locating

Setscrew

25

Lubricating

Oil

26

Sump

Drain

Plug

27 Flywheel

Housing

28

Cylinder

Block

Drain

Tap

29 Fuel

Lift

Pump

ENGINE

VIEWS-A.3

2 3

4

5

-----7

9

VIEW OF FUEL PUMP SIDE OF ENGINE

ENGINE

VIEWS-A.4

1

17

1

20

VIEW OF CAMSHAFT SIDE OF ENGINE

Engine Data

Bore

(nominal-

See Page B.3) ...

Stroke

...

No.

of

Cylinders

Cubic

Capacity

...
Compression Ratio
Firing

Order

Cycle

'"

Combustion

System

Engine Rotation

...

Rating Details

4.99

Maximum

Gross

Rated

Output

Maximum

Gross

Torque

Output

Engine Weights, Dry

48

bhp

(37 kW)

at 4000

rev/min

73 Ibf

ft

(10,1 kgf

m)

at 2250

rev/min

SECTION B

Technical Data

4.108 and 4.107

3.125 in (79,37

mm)

3.5 in (88,9

mm)

Four

107.4 in3 (1,760

litre)
22:1
1,3,4,2.
Four-Stroke
Indirect

Injection

Clockwise

viewed from

front

4.107

41

bhp

(30,6

kW)

at 3000

rev/min

79 Ibf

ft

(10,9

kgf

m)

at 1900

rev/min

4.99

3.00 in (76,2

mm)

3.5 in (88,9

mm)
Four
99 in3 (1,621

litre)

20:1

1, 3, 4, 2.

Four-Stroke
Indirect

Injection

Clockwise

viewed

from

front

4.108

55

bhp

(41 kW)

at 4000

rev/min

83 Ibf

ft

(11,5

kgf

m)

at 2200

rev/min

Approx.

dry

weight, bare engine, i.e.

complete

with

fuel

injection

equipment,

pressed steel

oil

sump, dynamo,

water

pump,

but

not

including

starter

motor,

air

cleaner, fan,

flywheel

or

flywheel housing: 330 Ib (150

kg).

Typical

dry

weight, engine with all accessories: 450 Ib

(204

kg).

Where

engines

are

called

upon to

operate

in rarefied

atmospheres

occasioned

by altitude,

such

engines

should

be

de-rated.

The

following

table

is given as a general guide,

which

may

be

applied

on a

percentage

basis,

where

specific

figures

for a particular

engine

rating are not available.

Altitude

0-

2,000 feet ( 600

metre)

2,000-

4,000

feet

(1,200

metre)

4,000-

6,000

feet

(1,800

metre)

6,000-

8,000 feet (2,400

metre)

8,000-10,000

feet

(3,000

metre)

10,000-12,000

feet

(3,600

metre)

* Measured

at

setting

speed given in

pump

setting

code.

Maximum

fuel

delivery

de-rating*

No

change

6%

12%

18%

24%

30%

Any

necessary

adjustments

in

this

respect

to

the fuel

pump

should

be

carried

01.11

by

the C.A.V.

dealer

or

Perkins

Distributor

for

the

territory

concerned.

For any

further

information

apply

to

Technical

Services

Department,

Perkins

Engines

Limited,

Peterborough

or

to one

of

the Perkins

Companies

listed on Page 2.

TECHNICAL

DATA-B.2

Recommended Torque Tensions

The

following

torque

figures

will

apply

with

the

components

lightly oiled

before

assembly:-

4.107 and

4.99 4.108

Ibf

ft

kgf m

Nm

Ibf

ft

kgf

m

Nm

Cylinder

Head

Nuts

42

5,81

57 60 8,3

81

Connecting

Rod

Setscrews

42

5,81

57

42

5,81

57

*

Main

Bearing

Setscrews

85

11,5 115

85 11,5

115

Flywheel

Setscrews

60

8,3

81

60

8,3

81

Idler

Gear

Hub

Setscrews

36

4,98 49 36 4,98

49

Crankshaft

Pulley

Setscrew-1.56

in (39,6

mm)

long

150 20,7

203

150 20,7

203

with

1.875

in

(47,6

mm)

dia.

washer

Crankshaft

Pulley

Setscrew

-1.68

in (42,7

mm)

long

190

26,3

250

with

1.75 in (44,6

mm)

dia.

washer

(Cadmium

Plated)

Crankshaft

Pulley

Setscrew

(Phosphated)

230

31,5

310

Atomiser

Securing

Nuts

.,

.

12 1,7

16

12

1,7

16

High

Pressure Fuel

Pipe

Nuts 15

2,1

20

15

2,1

20

Dynamo

Pulley

Retaining

Nut

20 2,8 27

20 2,8

27

Alternator

Pulley

Retaining

Nut

30

4,1

41

30

4,1

41

Thermostart

Unit

10 1,38 13

10 1,38

13

Thermostart

Insulating

Adaptor

10 1,38 13

10

1,38

13

*The

tab

and

shim

washers

may be

discarded

where

used

on

earlier

engines, but

the

setscrews

must be

tightened

to

the

torque

loading

indicated.

Service Wear Limits

The

following

"wear

limits"

indicate

the

condition

when it is

recommended

that

the

respective

items

should

be

servicec

or

replaced.

Cylinder

Head

Bow

Cylinder

Head

Bow

Longitud

inal

Transverse

Maximum

Bore Wear

(when

new

liners

are

necessary)

Crankshaft

Main and Big End

Journal

Wear

Crankshaft

Main and Big End

Journal

Ovality

Maximum

Crankshaft

End Float

Valve Stem to

Guide

Clearance

inlet

Valve Stem to

Guide

Clearance

Valve Head

Thickness

at

outer

edge

Rocker

Clearance

on Shaft

Camshaft

Journals

Ovality

and Wear

Camshaft

End Float

Idler

Gear End

Float

exhaust

*Valve Head Depth

below

Head

Face-inlet

and

exhaust

0.006 in (0,15

mm)

0.003

in

(0,08

mm)

concave

0.005 in (0,13

mm)

convex

0.006 in

(0,15mm)

0.001

in

(0,03

mm)

0.0005 in (0,01

mm)

0.020 in (0,51

mm)

0.005

in

(0,13

mm)

0.006

in

(0,15

mm)

0.025 in (0,64

mm)

0.005 in

(0,13mm)

0.002 in (0,05

mm)

0.020 in (0,51

mm)

0.010 in (0,25

mm)

0.048 in (1,22

mm)

*Where

vehicle

engines

have

to

conform

with

the

smoke

density

regulation

B.S.AU

141

a:

1971, then

the

valve

depths

must

not

exceed

production

limits

as given on page B.8.

Manufacturing

Data

and

Dimensions

The

data

regarding

clearances

and

tolerances

are

given for

personnel

engaged

upon

major

overhauls.

Further

information

can

be

obtained

on

request

from

the

Technical

Services

Department,

Perkins Engines Ltd.,

Peterborough.

CYLINDER BLOCK

Total

Height

of

Cylinder

Block

between

Top & Bottom

Faces

Parent

Bore

Dia.

for

Cylinder

Liner

Parent Bore Dia.

for

Cylinder

Liner

Main Bearing Parent

Bore

Camshaft

Bore

Dia.

No.1

Camshaft Bore Dia.

No.2

Camshaft

Bore

Dia.

No.3

Tappet

Bore Dia.

Fuel

Pump

Drive

Hub

Bearing

Bore

Dia.

4.108,4.107,4.99

4.108

4.107,4.99

4.108,4.107,4.99

4.108,4.107,4.99

4.108,4.107,4.99

4.108,4.107,4.99

4.108,4.107,4.99

4.108,4.107,4.99

9.936/9.939

in

(252,374/252,451

mm)

3.249/3.250

in

(82,525/82,550

mm)

Wet

Liners

2.3950/2.3955

in

(60,833/60,846

mm)

1.794/1.7955

in

(45,568/45,606

mm)

1.78411.787

in

(45,314/45,390

mm)

1.776/1.778

in

(45,110/45,161

mm)

0.562/0.56325

in

(14,275/14,307

mm)

1.812511.8141 in

(46,037/46,078

mm)

Cylinder Liner 4.108

Type

Interference

Fit

of

Liners

Inside

Dia. of

Liner

after Finish Boring and Honing

Height

of

Liner

in relation to Cylinder

Block

Top Face

Overall Length

of

Liner

Cylinder Liner 4.107 and 4.99

Type
Inside

Dia.

of

Liner

Pre-Finished

4.99

Inside

Dia.

of

Liner Pre-Finished 4.107

Thickness

of Top

Flange.

4.99

Depth of Recess in

Block

for Liner

Flange.

4.99

Thickness

of Top

Flange..

4,107

Depth of Recess in

Block

for

Liner Flange 4,107

Height

of Liner

in

relation to

Cylinder

Block

Top

Face 4,107 and 4.99

Liner

Flange Outside Dia. 4.99

Cylinder

Block

Top Bore for

Liner

Flange 4.99

Clearance Fit of

Liner

Flange

to

Block

Bore 4.107 and 4.99

Pistons 4.108

Type
Piston Height in relation to Cylinder

B!ock

Top

Face.

Bore Dia.

for

Gudgeon

Pin

Compression Ring Groove

Width-Top

Compression Ring Groove

Width-2nd

Compression Ring Groove

Width-3rd

Oil Control Ring Groove

Width-4th

Oil Control Ring Groove

Width-5th

i With

engines

rated at 3.000

rev/min

or

below,

the

fourth

Note: There is a Steel Insert fitted above the Top Groove.

I Pistons 4.108

(Controlled

Expansion)

I

IType

...

I Piston

Height

above Top Face of

Cylinder

Block

I Bore Dia.

for

Gudgeon Pin

I Compression Ring Groove Width,

Top

1 Compression Ring Groove Width,

Second

and

Third

.. .

I Oil Control Ring Groove Width

...

...

..

.

: Pistons 4.108

(Controlled

Expansion)

: Type

...

I Piston Height above Top Face

of

Cylinder

Block

:

Bore

Dia.

for

Gudgeon Pin

I CompreSSion Ring Groove Width,

Top

: Compression Ring Groove Width,

Second

I Oil Control Ring Groove Width

Pistons 4.107 and 4.99

Type
Piston Height in relation to

Cylinder

Block

Top Face ..

Bore Dia.

for

Gudgeon

Pin

later 4.99 and all 4.107

engines

...

Early 4.99

engines

Compression Ring Groove

Width-Top

Compression Ring Grooves Width 2nd and 3rd

Oil Control Ring Grooves 4th and 5th

TECHNICAL

DATA-B.3

Cast Iron - Dry -

Interference

Fit

0,003/0.005

in

(0,076/0.127

mm)

3.12513.126

in

(79,375179,40

mm)

0.023/0.027

in

(0,584/0,686

mm)

above

6.495/6.505

in

(164,973/165,227

mm)

Cast Iron - Wet Push Fit

3,00/3.001

in

(7620176.225

mm)

3.125/3,126

in

(79,374179.4

mm)

0.312510.3145

in

(7,93717,988

mm)

0.3115/0.3135

in

(7,91217,963

mm)

0.25010,252

in

(6.35/6,4

mm)

0.249/0,251

in

(6.325/6,375

mm)

0.003 in (0,076 mm) Above. 0.001

in

(0.025 mm)

Below

3.61813.621

in

(91.898/91,973

mm)

3.625/3,627

in

(92,075/92,125

mm)

0,00410.009

in

(0,102/0.229

mm)

Flat Topped

0.00210.006

in

(0,051/0.152

mm)

Above

1.06255/1.06275

in

(26,989/26.994

mm)

0.080510.0815

in

(2,045/2,070

mm)

0.0645/0.0655

in

(1,638/1,664

mm)

0.0645/0.0655

in

(1,638/1,664

mm)

0.126/0.127

in

(3.200/3,225

mm)

0.19010.191 in

(4,826/4.851

mm)

ring

groove

is

the

same as

the

fifth

ring

groove.

Flat

Topped

- Four Ring

0.002/0.006

in

(0,05/0,15

mm)

1.062711.0629

in

(26,992/26,999

mm)

0.080110.0821

in

(2,035/2,086

mm)

0.06410.065

in

(1,64/1,65

mm)

0.1887/0.1895

in (4,7914,81

mm)

Flat

Topped -Three

Ring

0.002/0.006

in

(0,05/0,15

mm)

1.062711.0629

in

(26,992/26,999

mm)

0.080/0.082

in

(2,035/2,086

mm)

0.09910.1005

in

(2,53/2,55

mm)

0.1890/0.1900

in

(4,8014,826

mm)

Flat

Topped

0.0085/0.012

in

(0,2210,30

mm)

Above

0.93755/0.93775

in

(23,81/23,82

mm)

0.87505/0.87525

in

(22,22122,23

mm)

0.0801/0.0811

in

(2,034/2,06

mm)

0.0645/0.0655

in

(1,638/1,664

mm)

0.190/0.191

in

(4,826/4,851

mm)

TECHNICAL

DATA-B.4

Piston Rings 4.108

Top-Compression
Second and Third Compression
Fourth-Oil

Control

Fifth-Oil

Control
Top Compression Ring Width
Ring Clearance in

Grove

...

Second and Third Compression Ring Width
Ring Clearance in

Groove

Fifth

Scraper

Ring Width

...

Ring Clearance in

Groove

Ring

Gap-Top

Compression

Ring

Gap-Second

and Third Compression .

Ring

Gap-Fifth

Scraper

...

Parallel Faced
Internally Stepped
Laminated Segment

'*

Slotted Scraper

0.0771/0.0781 in

(1,958/1,984

mm)

0.0024/0.0044 in

(0,061/0,112

mm)

0.0615/0.0625 in (1,562/1,587

mm)

0.00210.004 in

(0,051/0,102

mm)

0.1865/0.1875 in

(4,737/4,762

mm)

0.0025/0.0045 in

(0,063/0,114

mm)

0.00910.017 in

(0,229/0,432

mm)

0.00910.017 in

(0,229/0,432

mm)

0.00910.017 in

(0,229/0,432

mm)

:*

Engines rated at 3,000

revlmin

and

below

have a slotted scraper fitted in the fourth

groove

which

has the same

I width, clearance and gap as the fifth ring.

: Piston Rings

4.108(Controlied

Expansion -

Four

Ring)

, Top Compression
I Second and Third Compression

I Fourth Oil Control

I Top Compression Ring Width

I Ring Clearance in

Groove

...

: Second and Third Compression Ring Width

Ring Clearance in

Groove

I Oil Control Ring Width

...

I Ring Clearance in Groove

J Ring Gap, Top

...

. ..

I Ring Gap, Second and Third

I Ring Gap, Oil Control

Chrome Insert - Parallel Faced

Internally Stepped

Spring Loaded Scraper

0.077/0.078

in

(1,96/1,98

mm)

0.002/0.005 in

(0,05/0,13

mm)

0.0615/0.0625 in (1,5611,59

mm)

0.0015/0.0035

in (0,0410,09

mm)

0.186/0.1865

in

(4,72/4,74

mm)

0.0022/0.0035

in (0,0510.09

mm)

0.012/0.023

in

(0,30/0,58

mm)

0.009/0.020

in

(0,23/0,50

mm)

0.010/0.021 in

(0,25/0,53

mm)

: Piston Rings 4.108

(Controlled

Expansion -

Three

Ring)

I Top Compression

: Second Compression

I Third Oil Control

I Top Compression Ring Width
I Clearance in

Groove

...

: Second Compression Ring Width

I Clearance in

Groove

I Oil Control Ring Width

: Clearance in

Groove

I Ring Gap, Top

...

I Ring Gap, Second

I Ring Gap, Oil Control

Piston Rings

4.99

Vehicle

Top Compression

Second and Third Compression
Fourth and Fifth Oil Control

Piston Rings 4.107

and

4.99

and

Industrial

Top Compression
'Second

and Third Compression

Fourth-Oil

Control

Fifth-Oil

Control

Chrome,

Taper

Faced

Internally Stepped, Taper Faced

Spring Loaded Scraper

0.0765/0.0775

in

(1,943/1,969

mm)

0.0025/0.0055

in

(0,063/0,140

mm)

0.097/0.098

in

(2,46/2,49

mm)

0.0015/0.0035

in

(0,039/0,089

mm)

0.1865/0.1875

in

(4,737/4,763

mm)

0.0015/0.0035

in

(0,039/0,089

mm

0.01210.023 in

(0,31/0,59

mm)

0.009/0.020

in

(0,23/0,51

mm

0.012/0.023

in

(0,31/0,59

mm

Parallel Faced Chrome Plated

Internally Stepped
Slotted

Scraper

Parellel Cast Iron

Internally Stepped

Chrome

Plated Spring Loaded

Scraper

Slotted

Scraper

•

4.99

Agricultural

engines have taper faced cast iron

compression

rings fitted in the second and

third

ring grooves.

Top Compression Ring Width

Ring Clearance in

Groove

Second and

Third

Compression Ring

Width.
Ring Clearance in Groove
Fourth and Fifth Scraper Ring Width
Ring Clearance in Groove
Ring

Gap-Compression

Rings Chrome Vehicle

Ring

Gap-Oil

Control Rings Cast Iron Vehicle

Ring

Gap-Compression

Rings Cast Iron

Agricultural and Industrial

0.0771/0.0781 in

(1,96/1,984

mm)

0.002/0.004

in

(0,051/0,102

mm)

0.0615/0.0625

in

(1,562/1,587

mm)

0.00210.004 in

(0,051/0,102

mm)

0.1865/0.1875

in (4,73714,762

mm)

0.0025/0.0045

in

(0,064/0.114

mm)

0.01210.020 in

(0,30/0,50

mm)

0.009/0.017

in

(0,30/0,432

mm)

0.009/0.017

in

(0,30/0,432

mm)

Gudgeon

Pin 4.108

Type
Outside

Dia.

of

Gudgeon

Pin

Length

of

Gudgeon Pin

Fit

in Piston Boss

Gudgeon

Pin 4.107 and 4.99

Type
Outside Dia.

of

Gudgeon

Pin

(Later

Engines)

Outside

Dia.

of

Gudgeon

Pin

(Earlier

Engines)

Fit

in Piston Boss

Small

End Bush 4.108

Type

Length

of

Small

End

Bush

Outside

Dia.

of

Small

End Bush

Inside

Dia.

before

Reaming

Inside

Dia.

after

Reaming

Clearance

between Small End Bush and Gudgeon Pin

Small

End Bush 4.107 and 4.99

Type

Length

of

Small End Bush

Outside Dia.

of

Small End Bush

on

later

4.99 and all 4.107 engines

Early 4.99

engines

Inside

Dia.

after

Reaming on

later

4.99

and

a/l 4.107 engines

Early 4.99 engines

Clearance

between Small End Bush and Gudgeon Pin

TECHNICAL

DATA-B.S

Fully Floating

1.0625/1.0627 in

(26,987/26,993

mm)

2,673/2,687 in

(67,894/68,250

mm)

Transition

Fully Floating

0.9375

in/0.9377

in

(23,812/23,817

mm)

0.875/0.8752 in

(22,225/22,23

mm)

Transition

Steel Backed, Lead

Bronze

Lined

0.935/0.955

in

(23,749/24,257

mm)

1.221/1.222

in

(31,013/31,039

mm)

1.0495/1.0545 in

(26,657/26,784

mm)

1.06315/1.0632

in

(27,004/27,005

mm)

0.00045/0.0007 in

(0,0114/0,0178

mm)

Steel Backed, Lead

Bronze

Lined

0.865/0.885

in

(22,00/22,48

mm)

1.06511.066 in

(27,05/27,08

mm)

1.0025/1.0035

in (25,46125,49 mm)

0.9382/0.93875

in

(23,83/23,84

mm)

0.8757/0.87625

in

(22,24/22,26

mm)

0.0005/0.00125

in (0,0110,03

mm)

Note. Bushes

to

be reamed

to

suit respective Gudgeon Pins, and are

provided

with

a reaming allowance.

nSI::ti§11n Rod 4.108

Type 'H'

Section

Cap

Location

to

Connecting

Rod

Big End Parent

Bore

Dia.
Small End Parent Bore Dia.
Length from Centre Line

of

Big End

to

Centre Line

of

Small End

Big End

Setscrew

Connecting

Rod End Float

Connecting

Rod 4.107 and 4.99

Type

Cap

Location

to

Connecting

Rod
Big End Parent Bore Dia.
Small End Parent Bore Dia.

on

later

4.99 and all 4.107 engines

Early 4.99

engines

Length from Centre Line

of

Big End to Centre Line

of

Small End
Big End Setscrew
Connecting

Rod End Float

on

later

4.99

and

all 4.107 engines

Early 4.99 engines

Serrations, Offset 45

to

the Horizontal

2.146/2.1465 in

(54,508/54,521 mm)

1.21875/1.21975 in (30,956/30,981

mm)

6.217/6.219

in

(157,912/157,963

mm)

0.375 in

(i

in)

U.N.F.

0.006510.0105 in

(0,165/0,267

mm)

'H'

Section

Serrations,

Offset

45'

to

the

Horizontal

2. i 46/2.1465

in (54,508/54,521 mm)

1.0625/1.0635

in (26,99/27,01

mm)

1.00/1.001

in

(25,4/25,43mm)

6.405/6.407

in

(162,69/162,74

mm)

0.375 in

(i

in)

U.N.F.

0.0065/0.0105

in (0,1610,27

mm)

0.0075/0.0105

in

(0,19/0,27

mm)

TECHNICAL

DATA-B.G

Connecting Road Alignment

4.108,4.107,4.99

Large

and

small

end

bores

must be

square

and

parallel

with

each

other

within

the

limits

of

::'::0.010 in

(0,25

mm)

mea-

sured

5 in (127

mm)

each

side

of

the

axis

of

the

rod

on

test

mandrel

as

shown

in Fig. B.1.

With

the

small

end

bush

fitted, the

limit

of

::'::0.010 in (0,25

mm)

is

reduced

to

::'::0.0025 in (0,60

mm).

-

--

Ej~

.=

E

=

-.::t

Sin

.-It')

-

..

=N

-

~

00

127mm

+1

+.

...J

"

B1

Crankshaft

4.108,4.107,4.99

Overall

Length

Main

Journal

Dia. Nos. 1 and 2

Main

Journal

Dia.

No.3

Main

Journal

Length

No.

Main

Journal

Length

No.2

Main

Journal

Length

NO.3

Main

Journal

Fillet

Radii

Crankpin

Dia.

Crankpin

Length

Crankpin

Fillet

Radii

Surface

Finish-All

Journals

Main

Journal

and

Crankpin

Regrind

Undersizes

Oil Seal

Helix

Dia.

Oil Seal Helix

Width

Oil Seal

Helix

Depth

Flange

Dia.

Flange

Width

Spigot

Bearing

Recess Depth

Spigot

Bearing

Recess

Bore

Crankshaft

End Float

Crankshaft

Thrust

Washers 4.108,

4.1

Type

Position

in

Engine

Thrust

Washer

Thickness

(STD)

Thrust

Washer

Thickness

(O/S)

Thrust

Washer

Outside

Dia.

Thrust

Washer

Inside

Dia.

Main

Bearings

4.108, 4.101, 4.99

Type
Shell

Width

Outside

Dia.

of

Main

Bearing

Inside

Dia.

of

Main

Bearing

Running

Clearance-Nos. 1 and

2 .

Running

Clearance-No.

3

Steel

Thickness

Aluminium

Thickness

,;

i..-

4.99

....

~

-

c:

E

I

.-

E

Sin

=-.::t

--

-

'-It')

-

..

C?N

127mm

=0

+1+.

t-.

...J

'f

-

:..,...

21.125 in (536,575

mm)

2.248/2.2485

in

(57,099/57,112

mm)

2.2475/2.248

in

(57,086/57,099

mm)

1.40625 in (35,719

mm)

1.496/1.504

in

(37,998/38,202

mm)

1.499/1.502

in

(38.075/38,151

mm)

0.12510.141 in

(3,175/3,581

mm)

1.9993/2.0001

in

(50,78/50,80

mm)

1.1875/1.1895

in

(30.162/30,213

mm)

0.15625/0.17187

in

(5/32/11/64

in)

(3,969/4,366

mm)

8-16

micro-in

(0,2

- 0,4

micron)

0.010.0.020,0.030

in (0,25, 0.51.0.76

mm)

2.21075/2.21175

in

(56,153/56.178

mm)

0.050/0.080

in

(1,270/2,032

mm)

0.004/0.008

in

(0,102/0.203

mm)

3.9985/3.9995

in

(101,562/101,587

mm)

0.500 in (12,700

mm)

0.875 in (22,225

mm)

1.250 in (31,750

mm)

0.002/0.015

in

(0.0508/0.381

mm)

Steel

BaCked-Lead

Bronze

Faced

Rear

Main

Bearing

0.089/0.091

in

(2,261/2,311

mm)

0.0965/0.1005

in

(2,451/2,553

mm)

3.24513.255 in

(82,423/82.677

mm)

2.590/2.600

in

(65.786/66,040

mm)

Pre-finished,

Steel

Backed.

Aluminium

Tin

Lined

1.245/1.255

in

(31.623/31.877

mm)

2.3955 in (60,846

mm)

2.2505/2.2515

in

(57,163/57,188

mm)

0.002/0.0035

in

(0.051/0,089

mm)

0.0025/0.004

in

(0,063/0.102

mm)

0.060 in (1,524

mm)

Max.

0.01210.01225

in

(0.305/0,311

mm)

Connecting Rod Bearings 4.108, 4.107, 4.99

Type
Shell

Width
Outside Dia. of Can. Rod Bearing .
Inside Dia.

of

Can. Rod Bearing
Running Clearance
Steel

Thickness

.

Aluminium

Thickness

Camshaft 4.108,4.107,4.99

No. 1

Journal

Length

No.1

Journal

Dia.

No.1

Cylinder

Block

Camshaft Bore Dia.

No. 1

Journal

Running Clearance

No. 2

Journal

Length

No. 2

Journal

Dia.

No.2

Cylinder

Block

Camshaft Bore Dia.

No.2

Journal

Running Clearance

No. 3

Journal

Length

No. 3

Journal

Dia

NO.3

Cylinder

Block

Camshaft Bore Dia.

NO.3

Journal

Running Clearance

...

Cam

Lift

Oilways

for

Rocker Shaft Lubrication

Camshaft Thrust Plates 4.108, 4.107, 4.99

Type
Thrust Plate Outside Dia.

Cylinder

Block

Recess Dia. for Thrust Plate
Clearance Fit of Thrust Plate in Recess
Thrust Plate Inside Dia.

Thrust Plate Thickness

Cylinder

Block

Recess Depth

for

Thrust Plate

Thrust Plate

Height

in relation to

Cylinder

Block

Face

Camshaft End Float

Valve and Fuel Pump Timing

Refer to

later

section on timing (page

K.1

) .

CYLINDER HEAD

4.1

Overall Length of Cylinder Head
Overall Depth

of

Cylinder

Head

4.1

4.99

Skimming

Allowance

on

Cylinder

Head Face

Pressure

for

Water

Leakage Test

Valve Seat

Angle

Bore in

Cylinder

Head for Guide

Bore in

Cylinder

Head

for

Combustion

Chamber

Inserts

Depth of Bore in

Cylinder

Head for

Combustion Chamber Inserts

Combustion Chamber Inserts 4.108, 4.101,4.99

Outside Dia.

of

Insert

Depth

of

Insert

...

Height

of

Insert in relation

to

Cylinder

Head Face

Clerance Fit

of

Insert in

Cylinder

Head Bore

Method

of

Location

in

Cylinder

Head

Valve Guides

(inlet)

4.108,4.107,4.99

Inside Dia.
Outside Dia.
Interference fit

of

Guide in

Cylinder

Head Bore
Overall length of Guide ."
Guide Protrusion Above

Top

Face

of

Cylinder

Head

TECHNICAL

DATA-B.7

Pre-finished, Steel Backed,

Aluminium

Tin

Lined

0.870/0.880 in (22,098/22,325

mm)

2.1465 in (54,521

mm)

2.0015/2.0025 in (50,838/50,863

mm)

0.0014/0.0032 in (0,036/0,081

mm)

0.060 in (1,524

mm)

Max_

0.012/0.01225 in (0,305/0,311

mm)

1.347/1.351 in (34,214/34,315

mm)

1.791/1.792 in (45,491/45,517

mm)

1.794/1.7955 in (45,568/45,606

mm)

0.002/0.0045 in (0,051/0,114

mm)

1,250 in (31,750

mm)

1.781/1.782 in (45,237/45,26'3

mm)

1,784/1,787 in (45:314/45,390

mm)

0.002/0.006 in (0,051/0,152

mm)

1.000 in (25,400

mm)

1.773/1.774 in (45,034/45,060

mm)

1.776/1.778 in (45,110/45,161

mm)

0.002/0.005 in (0,051/0,127

mm)

0.2592/0.2622 in

(6,58/6,66

mm)

No. 2

Journal

180'

Oil Impregnated Sintered Iron

2.555/2.557 in (64,897/64,948

mm)

2.5585/2.5685 in (64,986/65,240

mm)

0.0015/0.013 in (0,038/0,330

mm)

1.500 in (38,100

mm)

0.160/0.162 in (4,060/4,115

mm)

0.158/0.164 in (4,009/4,166

mm)

0.004 in (0,102

mm)

above

or

below

0.003/0.009 in (0,076/0,228 mm)

20.000 in (508,000

mm)

2.617

/2.633

in (66,472/66,878

mm)

NIL-On

no

account

can the

cylinder

head face be

skimmed

20

Ibflin

2

(1,4

kgflcm2)

-138

kN/m

2

45°

0.4995/0.5005 in (12,687/12,713

mm)

1.250/1.252

in (31,750/31,801

mm)

0.373/0.376

in (9,474/9,550

mm)

1.248/1.249

in (31,699/31,724

mm)

0.374/0.375

in (9,499/9,525

mm)

0.002 in (0,051

mm)

above

or

below

0.001/0.004

in

(0,025/0,102

mm)

By

Cylinder

Block

Face and Expansion Washer

0.3141/0.3155 in (7,978/8,014

mm)

0.5021/0.5026 in (12,753/12,766

mm)

0.0016/0.0031 in (0,041/0,079

mm)

2.130

in

(54,102

mm)

6.800/0.815

in

(20,320/20,701

mm)

TECHNICAL

DATA-B.B

Valve Guides (Exhaust)

4.10B,

4.107, 4.99

Inside Dia.

Outside

Dia.

Interference

fit

of

Guide in Cylinder Head Bore

Depth

of

Counterbore

Overall Length

of

Guide

'"

Guide

Protrusion above Top Face

of

Cylinder

Head

Valves (Inlet) 4.10B, 4,107, 4.99

Valve Stem Dia.
Clearance fit of Valve Stem in Guide
Valve Head Dia.
Valve Face Angle

Valve Head Depth

Below

Cylinder Head Face

Overall Length of Valve

Sealing Arrangement

Valve (Exhaust) 4.108,4.107,4.99

Valve Stem Dia.
Clearance Fit of Valve Stem in Guide
Valve Head Dia.
Valve Face Angle
Valve Head Depth

Below

Cylinder Head Face

Overall Length

of

Valve

Sealing Arrangement

Inner Valve Springs (where fitted)

Fitted Length
Load

at

Fitted Length

Fitted Position

Outer Valve Springs

Fitted Length
Load

at

Fitted Length

Fitted Position

4.10B,

4.107, 4.99

Rockel'

level's

4.108, 4.107, 4.99

Length between Centre Line of

Adjusting

Screw and

Centre Line of Rocker Shaft

Length between Centre Line of Rocker Lever

Pad and

Centre Line of Rocker Shaft

Inside Dia. of Rocker Lever Bore
Outside Dia. of Rocker Lever Bush
Interference Fit

of

Bush in Rocker Lever
Finished Inside Dia. of Rocker Lever Bush
Clearance of Rocker Lever Bush on

Rocker

Shaft

Valve Clearances 4.108, 4.107, 4.99

Clearance between Valve Stem Tip and Rocker Lever

Rocker

Shaft 4.108, 4.107, 4.99

Overall Length of Shaft
Outside Dia. of Shaft
Lubrication

Push Rods

Overall Length
Outside Dia.

4.108, 4.107, 4.99

0.3141/0.3155 in

(7,978/8,014

mm)

0.5021/0.5026 in

(12,753/12,766

mm)

0.001610.0031 in

(0,041/0,079

mm)

0.380 in (9,650

mm)

2.440 in (61,980

mm)

0.80010.815 in (20,320/20,701

mm)

0.312/0.313

in (7,92511,950

mm)

0.0011/0.0035 in

(0,028/0,089

mm)

1.410/1.414

in

(35,814/35,916

mm)

45'

0.028/0.039 in (0,711/0,991

mm)

4.592/4.608

in

(116,637/117,043

mm)

Rubber Oil Seal

0.3115/0.3125 in (7,91217,937

mm)

0.0016/0.004

in

(0,041/0,102

mm)

1.19111.195 in

(30,251/30,353

mm)

45°

0.021/0.032

in (0,53'3/0,813

mm)

4.60014.616 in

(116,840/117,246

mm)

No Seal fitted to Exhaust Valve

1.530 in (38,862

mm)

28.6 Ibf::'::: 2 Ibf (13,0 kgf::':::

0,91

kgf)

Damper Coil to

Cylinder

Head

1.780 in (45,212

mm)

56.0

Ibf::':::2.8

Ibf (25,4 kgf::':::1,27

kg!)

Damper Coil to

Cylinder

Head

1.042/1.058

in

(26,467/26,873

mm)

1.567/1.583

in

(39,802/40,208

mm)

0.71825/0.71950

in

(18,243/18,275

mm)

0.720510.7215 in

(18,301/18,326

mm)

0.00110.00325 in

(0,025/0,082

mm)

0.6245/0.62575

in

(15,862/15,894

mm)

0.00075/0.0035

in (0,01910,089 mm)

0.012 in (0,30

mm)

Cold

14.5625 in (369,887

mm)

0.62225/0.62375

in

(15,805/15,843

mm)

Oil Feed from

Cylinder

Head through Central

Passage

to

Individual

Rocker Levers

8.527/8.560

in

(216,58/217,42

mm)

0.250 in (6,350

mm)

Tappets 4.108, 4.107, 4.99

Overall Length
Outside Dia: of

Tappet

Shank

Cylinder

Block

Tappet Bore Dia.

Tappet Running Clearance in Cylinder

Block

Bore

Outside Dia. of

Tappet

Foot

TIMING GEARS 4.108, 4.107, 4.99

TECHNICAL

DATA-B.9

2.250

in

(57,150

mm)

0.560/0.561 in

(14,224/14,249

mll'l)

0.56210.56325 in

(14,275/14,307

mm)

0.001/0.00"325 in

(0,025/0,082

mm)

1.245/1.255

in

(31,623/31,877

mm)

Note:

Some

engines

are fitted with spur gears instead of helical gears, in

which

case the

number

of teeth

on

each

gear

are given

in

brackets.

Camshaft Gear

Number

of Teeth

Inside Dia.

of

Gear

Boss

...
Outside Dia. of Camshaft Hub
Transition

Fit

of

Gear and Hub

Fuel Pump Gear

Number

of Teeth

Inside Dia.

of

Cylinder

Block

Bore for Fuel Pump

Drive Hub Bearing

Outside Dia.

of

Fuel Pump Drive Hub Bearing

Interference Fit

of

Drive Hub

Bearing in

Cylinder

Block

Bore

...

Inside Dia.

of

Fuel Pump Drive Hub Bearing

Outside Dia.

of

Fuel Pump Gear Drive Hub

...

Running Clearance

of

Drive Hub in Bearing

Drive Hub End

Float

Idler Gear and Hub

Number

of

Teeth

Inside Dia.

of

Gear

Boss

...

Inside Dia.

of

Gear

Boss with Bush Fitted ...

Outside Dia. of

Gear

Hub

Running Clearance

of

Gear on Hub

Idler

Gear Width
Hub Width
Idler

Gear End Float

Crankshaft Gear

Number

of

Teeth

Inside Dia.

of

Gear

Crankshaft Dia.

for

Gear

...

Transition Fit of

Gear

on Crankshaft

Timing Gear Backlash

Clearance between

Crankshaft!ldler

and

Camshaft!

Idler

Gear

LUBRICATING SYSTEM

4.108,4.107,4.99

48

(50)

1.750/1.7514 in

(44,450/44,486

mm)

1.7496/1.7509 in

(44,430/44,473

mm)

0.000910.0018 in

(0,023/0,046

mm)

48

(50)

1.8125/1.8141 in

(46,037/46,078

mm)

1.814511.8152 in

(46,088/46,106

mm)

0.0004/0.0027 in

(0,010/0,069

mm)

1.3125/1.3135

in

(33,34/33,78

mm)

1.3105/1.3115 in

(33,287/33,312

mm)

0.0031/0.0051 in

(0,079/0,129

mm)

0.00210.010 in

(0,051/0,254

mm)

57

(42)

1.7187/1.7197

in

(43,655/43,680

mm)

1.562511.5641 in (39,687139,728

mm)

1.5612/1.5619

in

(39,654/39,668

mm)

0.0003/0.0016

in (0,008/0,041

mm)

1.3105/1.3135

in

(33,287/33,363

mm)

1.316511.3195 in

(33,439/33,52

mm)

0.00310.008 in

(0,076/0,208

mm)

24

(25)

1.25011.2512 in

(31,750/31,780

mm)

1.250/1.2506

in

(31,750/31,756

mm)

0.000610.0012 in

(0,015/0,030

mm)

0.0015/0.0025

in

(0,038/0,064

mm)

Lubricating Oil Pressure

...

30/60

Ibflin

2

(2,1/4,2

kgflcm2)

-2071414

kN/m

2

at

Sump

Dipstick

Position

Strainer Location

Typical Sump Capacities

Refill

Capacities-Engine

Level

Standard Sump

...

Vauxhall

Motors
Chrysler Cars
Ford

Motor

Co

....

maximum

engine

speed and normal

working

tempera-

ture.

Camshaft side

of

engine

opposite

No.2

cylinder

End

of

suction

pipe

to

lubricating

oil pump.

Imp.

pt

U.S.

pt

Litre

7.0

8.4

4.0

9.0

10.8

5.1

8.6

10.3

4.9

8.75

10.5

5.0

Note: The above sump

capacities

are intended

to

be used as a gUide and

actual

capaCities should be governed by

the level

indicated

on the

dipstick.

When refilling the engine

after

an overhaul has been

carried

out a further

2 imp. pints,

2!

U.S.

pints

or 1 litre

approxi-

mately should be added

to

the

capacities

quoted,

to

allow

for

filling

the pipes, oilways,

filter

assembly, etc.

TECHNICAL

DATA-B.10

Lubricating Oil Pump

Type
Number

of

Lobes-Inner

Rotor

Number

of

Lobes-Outer

Rotor

Method

of

Drive

Pump Clearances

Inner

Rotor

to

Outer Rotor

Outer Rotor

to

Pump Body

Inner Rotor End Clearance

Outer

Rotor End Clearance

Inside Dia.

of

~ore

for

Pump Shaft

Outside Dia.

of

Pump Shaft

Running Clearance, Shaft in Bore ...

Lubricating Oil Pump Drive Gear

Number

of

Teeth

Inside Dia. of Gear

Bore

...

Outside Dia.

of

Oil Pump Drive Shaft
Interference Fit of Gear on Shaft ...
Lubricating Oil Pump Drive Gear Backlash

...

Relief Valve

Type
Pressure Setting
Length

of

Plunger

Outside Dia.

of

Plunger

...

Inside Dia.

of

Valve Housing Bore ...

Clearance

of

Plunger in Bore

Outside Dia.

of

Spring

Spring-Free

Length

Lubricating Oil Filter

Type

Element Type

By-Pass Valve Setting

COOLING SYSTEM 4.108, 4.101, 4.99

Type
Cylinder

Block

and Head

Engine Water Capacity (Less Radiator)

Thermostat

Type

Opening Temperature
Fully open

at

Minimum

Travel

at

Fully Open Temp.

Water Pump

Type

Outside Dia.

of

Shaft

for

Pulley (Separate Bearing

Pump)

Inside Dia.

of

Pulley Bore (Separate Bearing Pump)

Outside Dia.

of

Shaft

for

Pulley

(Combined

Bearing

and

Shaft)

Inside Dia.

of

Pulley Bore

(Combined

Bearing

and

Shaft Pump)

...

Interference Fit

of

Pulley on

Shaft

.. .

Outside Dia. of Shaft

for

Impeller

.. .

Inside Dia.

of

Impeller Bore

Interference Fit

of

Impeller on Shaft

Rotor Type
Three

or

Four

Four

or

Five

By

Spiral Gears from the

Camshaft

0.0005/0.0025 in

(0,013/0,063

mm)

0.01110.013 in

(0,28/0,33

mm)

0.0015/0.003 in

(0,038/0,076

mm)

0.0005/0.0025 in

(0,013/0,063

mm)

0.50010.501 in

(12,700/12,725

mm)

0.4983/0.4986 in

(12,655/12,664

mm)

0.0014/0.0027 in

(0,036/0,069

mm)

12

0.496510.4970 in

(12,611/12,624

mm)

0.4983/0.4986 in

(12,655/12,664

mm)

0.001310.0021 in

(0,033/0,053

mm)

0.0155/0.019

in

(0,394/0,483

mm)

Spring Loaded Plunger
50/65

Ibflin2 (3,5/4,6

kgflcm2) -344/448

kN/m

2

0.9375 in (23,813

mm)

0.5585/0.5595 in (14,19/14,21

mm)

0.5605/0.5625 in (14,24/14,29

mm)

0.001/0.004 in (0,025/0,102

mm)

0.368/0.377 in (9,347/9,576

mm)

1.5 in (38,10

mm)

Full Flow
Paper

or

Canister

Open between 13-17

Ibflin

2

(0,91-1,2

kgflcm2)

90-117

kN/m

2

pressure

differential

Water Cooled

Thermo-Syphon

Impeller

Assisted

6 Imp.

pt

(7.2 U.S.

pt

or

3,4

Litre)

Wax Capsule

175-182°F (79,5-83,5°C)
200-205°F (93,5-96°C)

0.3125 in (7,94

mm)

Centrifugal-Belt

driven

from

Crankshaft

0.5905/0.5908 in (14,999/15,006

mm)

0.588/0.589 in (14,935/14,961

mm)

0.6262/0.6267 in (15,808/15,920

mm)

0.6239/0.6247 in (15,849/15,869

mm)

0.0015/0.0028 in (0,038/0,071

mm)

0.498/0.499 in (12,649/12,675

mm)

0.497/0.4975

in (12,624/12,636

mm)

0.0005/0.002 in (0,013/0,051

mm)

Outside

Dia. of

Impeller

Water

Pump Seal Type

FUEL SYSTEM 4.108,4.107,4.99

Approved Fuel Oil Specification

United Kingdom 8S.2869:1967

United States VV-F-800a

AS.T.M.lD975-66T

France

(J.O.

14/9/57)

India

IS: 1460/1968

Germany DIN-51601 (1967)

TECHNICAL

DATA-B.11

3.094/3.125 in (78,588179,375

mm)

Synthetic

Rubber-Carbon

Faced

Class

A1

or

A2

Grades OF-A,

or

DF-2.

Nos.

1-0

or

2-D.

Gas Oil

or

Fuel Domestique

Grade

Special

or

Grade A

Italy CUNA-Gas Oil NC-630-01 (1957)
Sweden SIS.

155432

(1969)

Switzerland Federal

Military

Spec.

9140-335-1404 (1965)

Fuel

oils

available in territories

other

than those listed

above

which are to an

equivalent

specification

may be used.

Fuel Lift Pump

Type

Spring

Colour

Code

Method

of

Drive

Total Stroke

of

Operating Lever

Static

Pressure-No

Delivery

Pump to Distance Piece Gasket Thickness

...

Distance

Piece-Lift

Pump

to

Tappet Inspection Cover

Final Fuel Filter

Element Type
Overflow Valve Type
Valve in Fuel Pump Drain Connection

Fuel Injection Pump

Make
Type

Rotation

Plunger Dia.

Hydraulically Governed

Timing Letter
No. 1

Cylinder

Outlet

Mechanically Governed

Timing Letter
No. 1

Cylinder

Outlet

AC

Delco

Diaphragm 'Y J' Series

Green

From

Eccentric

on Camshaft via Push rod

0.192 in (4,877

mm)

4-7

Ibflin

2

(0,28-0,49

kgflcm2)

- 28-48

kN/m

2

0.018/0.022 in (0,457/0,559

mm)

0.256 in (6,502

mm)

Paper
Gravity

8all

Check

Valve

Spring Loaded Non-Return Valve set

at

0.71-1.25

Ibflin

2

(0,0522-0,0875

kgflcm2)

- 5-9

kN/m

2

CAV.

D.P.A.
Clockwise

(Viewed

from Drive End)

6 mm

4.108

A

W

C

W

4.107

c

W

4.99

A

W

C

W

TECHNICAL

DATA-B.12

Static Timing Position

The static timing position varies according

to

application, but can

be

obtained by referring

to

the first group

of

letters

and digits

of

the

fuel pump setting code (stamped on the fuel pump identification plate).

IOn the latest

4.108

engines the setting codes start

with

the fuel pump part number followed by

the

two

code letters. Only

the

Itwo

code letters are used

in

the table for identification purposes.

(USING TIMING TOOL MS67B)

ALTERNATIVE DROP VALVE METHOD

First

Group

of

Engine

Checking

Fuel Pump

Marking

Static

Timing

Piston

Displacement

Fuel

Pump

Code

Angle

(Degrees)

Angle

(Degrees)

(Degrees)

BTDC

in

(mm)

BTDC

4.99

AH28

282

29S

26

0.226

(5,74)

BH26

287

300

26

0.226

(5,74)

CH3S

280~

290 19

0.120

(3,05)

DH19

287

300

26

0.226

(5,74)

LH20 }

282

292

20

0.134

(3,40)

LH26
LH29

281

292

22

0.160

(4,06)

MH26

281

290

18

0.110

(2,79)

4.107

CH3S

280~

290

19

LH23}

0.120

(3,05)

LH28

282

292

20

LH29

0.134

(3,40)

LH31

(exceptions

below)

LH31

1900/2/2770

}

LH31

1900/2/3130

281

292

22

0.160

(4,06)

LH31

1900/9/1880

MH27}
PH28

281

290

18

0.110

(2,79)
PH30
PH34

280

290

20

0.134

(3,40)

iEH

4.108

EH34E

281

290

18

0.11

°

(2,79)

EH39
LH30

281

292

22

0.160

(4,06)

IpH

281

290 18

0.1 0

(2,79)

PH23E

(exceptions

281

290 18

0.110

(2,79)

PH25E

below)

PH2SESOO/S/24S0}
PH2SESOO/9/1990

279~

290

21

0.150

(3,81)

PH2SESOO/9/2090

PH27

~

-

281

290

18

'0.110

(2,79)

i PH28

(exceptions

PH30 be/ow)

PH30/S00/5/24SO }

PH30/S00/6/1S70

279t

290

21

0.150

(3,81)

PH30/S00/9/1990

PH30/S00/9/2090

:RH

1

RH30E

279~

290

21

0.150

(3,81)

SH33E

ITH }

281

291

20

0.134

(3,40)

ITH23E .

Note:

For 4.107

and

4.99

mechanically

governed

engines r aled

above 3,000

and

2,SOO

rev I

min

respectively, the

static

timing

is

altered

to

22'

B.T.C.D.'

piston

displacement

0.160 in

(4,06

mmJ.

For

4.108

engines

prior

to

engine

numbers

108U15973

and

108UD20214, the

static

timing

was

19'

B.T.D.C.·,

piston

displacement

0.120 in (3,05

mm).

When re,

setting

these pumps,

it

is

advisable

to

set

at

the figures

quoted

in

above

table.

For 4.107

industrial

engines

having

a fuel

pump

coding

of

PH30

and

an

idling

speed

at

1,000

rev/min,

the

static

timing

is

21'

B.T.D.C.

and a piston

displacement

of

0.147 in

(3,73

mm).

I

I

I

",-(I!I'"

I

Atomisers

4.108 Veh., M., Ind., Comb.

4.107 M., Ind.,

TA

Make

...

Holder

Type
Nozzle Type
Code Letter
Min.

Working

Pressure

Setting Pressure

4.108M, Ind., Comb.

Make

...

Holder

Type

Nozzle Type

Code Letter

! Min. Working Pressure

I Setting Pressure

CAV.
BKB40S05224
BON 12S06236
BG

TECHNICAL

DATA-B.13

135 atm (2000

Ibflin2

or

140

kgf/cm2)

150 atm (2200

Ibf/in2

or

155 k9f1cm2)

CAV.
BKB40S05224
BDN4SD6769

GY

135 atm (2000

Ibflin2 or

140

kgflcm2)

150 atm (2200

Ibflin2 or

155

kgflcm2)

Note: Earlier atomisers bearing the identification code

letter

'J' had a setting pressure

of

140 atm. When

servicing

of

these atomisers is

carried

out, they should be reset in

accordance

with the settings quoted above.

Make
Holder

Type
Nozzle Type
Code Letter
Min. Working Pressure
Setting Pressure

Starting Aid

Make
Type

Voltage

Maximum Current Consumption
Fuel Flow Rate

through

Unit

Height of Reservoir (where fitted) above Centre of

Thermostart

...

Make ...
Type

...

Max. Output

Alternator

Make
Type

...

Max. Output

(hot)
AC5 (12V)
AC5 (24V)
11AC (12V)

..

11AC (24V)
15ACR

17ACR

Starter

Motor

Make

...

Type

...

Max.

Current
Starter Cable Resistance ...
No. of Teeth on Pinion

...

4.99 Veh 4.99

Veh

4.99 Ind. & 4.107 Ind.

CAV. CAV.

CAV.

BKB40S5223 BKB40S5224

BKB40S5224
BON12SD6236 BDN12SD6236 BDN4S6157
BK
120
130

CAV.
Thermostart

12

Volt

BL
125
130

12.9 Amperes

at

11.5 Volts

4.3-4.9 cm

3

min

at

70"F

(21'C)

4.5-10 in (11,4-25,4

cm)

Lucas
C40

11A

Lucas

or

C.A.V.

BE

130

135

AC5

(12Vor24V),

11AC

(12Vor24Vj,

15ACR (12V) and 17ACR

(12V)

53A
30A

43A

23A
28A
36A

Lucas
MG45

or

2M113

900A

0.0017

ohms

(Max.)

10

SECTION C

Operating and Maintenance

Starting the Engine

If

the

weather

is warm

or

the engine has only been

stopped

for a little

while, place the

accelerator

in the

fully open

position

and engage the

starter

motor

by

turning the

starter

switch

in a

clockwise

direction

to

the

"HS"

position

(See Fig. C.1).

If

the

battery

is

well

up, enough to turn the

starter

motor

quickly,

the

engine

should start.

Always be sure

that

the

starter

pinion

and flywheel

have

stopped

revolving before re-engaging the starter,

otherwise

the

ring

or

pinion

may be damaged.

C1

1.

Off Position

2.

Run Position

3.

Heat Position

4.

Heat and Start Position

To

Aid

In

cold

weather

the

procedure

for

the use

of

this

equipment

is as

follows:-

Ensure

that

the

engine

stop

control

is in the

"run"

position.

Turn on the fuel supply

tap

of

the starting aid reser-

voir, where fitted.

Tum

start

switch

in

direction

to

"H"

position

for

fifteen

to

twenty

seconds.

As soon as the engine starts, the

switch

should

be

returned to the

"R"

position,

and

the

tap

on

the

start-

ing reservoir, when fitted,

turned

off.

NOTE: The above

procedure

is

not

necessary

when

the

engine

is hot.

To

re-start,

turn

the

switch

in a

clockwise

direction

to the

"HS"

position

which

will

engage

the

starter

motor.

Earlier Heat Start Switch

The

cold

start

switch

fitted

to

earlier

engines

is

shown

in Fig. C.2.
With this

switch,

starting a warm

engine

is

effected

by

turning

the

switch

in a

clockwise

direction

to

the

"S"

position.
In

cold

weather, the

switch

should

be

turned

to

the

"H"

position

for

fifteen

to

twenty

seconds

and

then

to

the

"HS"

position

in

order

to

engage

the

starter

motor.

As

soon

as the

engine

starts,

the

switch

should

be

returned

to

the

"0"

position.

Where

this

type

of

switch

is used,

it

was

customary

to

have a

separate

switch

for

the

electrical

circuits

and

this

should

be

turned

on

before

starting

the

engine

and

turned

off

after

stopping

the

engine.

With

accelerator

in the fully

open

position,

turn

the C2

switch a further

clockwise

movement

to

the

"HS"

position

thereby

engaging

the

starter

motor.

If the engine

does

not start

after

fifteen seconds, return

switch

to

"H"

position

for

ten

seconds

and

then re-

engage

the

starter

motor.

1.

Off Position

2.

Start Position

3.

Heat Position

4.

Heat and

Start

Position

OPERATING AND

MAINTENANCE-C.2

Alternative Method

With some engines, a different starter switch is pro-
vided

and the cold

start

aid is operated by means

of

a

separate push button switch.
The

cold

starting

procedure

is the same i.e.

Switch

on by turning the starter switch in a

clockwise

direction

to the first position.

Press the heater button for fifteen

to

twenty seconds

and then,

with

the

heater

button still pressed, turn the

starter

switch

in a

further

clockwise

direction

to engage

the

starter

motor. As

soon

as the engine starts, release

switch

and heater button.

I Glow Plugs

Glow

plugs are sometimes fitted to engines in applica-

tions

such as refrigeration units, fork

lift

trucks

and

other

certain 4.108

mechanically

governed engines

rated at 3,000

rev/min

and below. As the buss bar

connecting

these

glow

plugs may not be insulated,
extreme care must be exercised to keep pipes, clips
or

other

metal

objects

well clear

as

the consequences

of a

direct

short of this buss

bar

to

earth when
energised are obvious.
It must be noted

that

in

no

circumstances

should

either

or

any other unauthorised starting aids be used

at the same time as

glow

plugs.

To operate, use the

following

procedure

:-

Before operating the starter motor, press the

"Heat"

button for

20

to

30

seconds.

I With the

"Heat"

button still pressed, engage the

I starter

motor

until the

engine

starts.

I Continue

to

press the

"Heat"

button

for

a few seconds
I after the engine has started until even running has
: been obtained.
Ilf

the engine does not start, disengage the starter

I motor,

but

keep the

"Heat"

button pressed

for

a

I

further

10

to

15 seconds, when a

further

attempt should

I be made

to

start the engine, keeping the

glow

plugs
I energised whilst starting and for a few seconds after
ithe

engine

has fired until even running is obtained.

Points

to

Note

Ensure

that

the

electrical

connection

to the starting aid

is

correctly

made.

Always ensure

that

the reservoir feeding fuel

to

the

starting aid is fully primed and is not leaking. With

some

later

engines, this fuel

reservoir

has been deleted,

the

cold

start

aid being fed

direct

from the fuel filter

through

a non-return valve.

Extended use

of

the

cold

starting

equipment

above the

time

periods already stated should be avoided, other-

wise the starting aid in the

induction

manifold

may be

damaged also continuous flaming

will

starve the

engine

of oxygen.

In the event

of

difficult

starting,

check

that

fuel is

reaching the starting aid in the

induction

manifold

by

unscrewing

the

inlet

fuel

connection.

If fuel is reaching

it

satisfactorily, then

it

may be that the

starting

aid it-

self

is not

working

correctly. This can be

checked

by

removing the

air

cleaner

and

watching

the starting

aid

whilst

the

equipment

is used. When the

starting

switch

is turned

to

the

"heat"

position,

the

element

should

become red hot, and upon

engagement

of

the

starter

motor

ignition

of

the fuel

should

take

place.

4.108, 4.107 and 4.99 engines are

fitted

with

efficient

starting

equipment

and

no

responsibility

can be

accepted

for

any damage caused

by

unauthorised

start-

ing aids.
To prevent thermostart damage,

it

is

essential

that

the

thermostart is not operated DRY.

After

any

operation

which allows fuel to drain from

the the

thermostart

feed

pipe, the pipe must be

disconnected

at

the

thermostart

and all air bled from the pipe before the

thermostart

is

operated.
Where a

thermostart

starting aid has to be replaced,

care must be taken

not

to

exceed

the

torque

figure

quoted on Page B.2. Excessive

torque

loading

can

crack

the

insulator

adaptor

causing an

electrical

short

and

hard starting characteristics.

Stopping the Engine

A spring

loaded

stop

control

is

located

near

the

normal

engine

controls

and

functions

by

cutting

off

the fuel

at

the fuel

injection

pump.

To

operate, pull the

knob

and

hold

in

mis

position

until

the engine ceases

to

rotate. Ensure

that

the

control

returns to the

"run"

position,

otherwise

difficutly

may

be

experienced

in re-starting the engine.

Return latest

cold

start

switch

to

the

"0"

position.

Some

engines

may have an

electric

solenoid

stop

control on the fuel

injection

pump

operated

by a switch

on the

control

panel.

Running In Procedure

It is not necessary

to

gradually

run-in a

new

or

factory

rebuilt

engine

and any

prolonged

light

load running

during the early life of the

engine

can in

fact

prove

harmful

to

the

bedding in of piston rings and liners.

Full load can be applied

On

a new

or

factory

rebuilt

engine as soon as the

engine

is used,

provided

that

the

engine

is

first

allowed to reach a

temperature

of

at

least

140°F

(60°C).

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE

I These preventive

maintenance

periods

are general in

I

application.

Check

the

periods

given by the manu-

I

facturer

of the

equipment

in

which

the engine is

1 installed and,

where

necessary, use the

shorter

periods.

I These

periods

and

procedures

must also be adapted

I

to

ensure

correct

operation

for

any local machine
I regulations.
I It is good

maintenance

to

check

for

leakage and loose

I fasteners at each service interval.

I 1 hese

maintenance

periods

are

only

for

engines that

I are

operated

with fuel and

lubricating

oil to the

I

specifications

given in

this

manual.

I The

schedules

which

follow

must be applied at the

I interval

(miles,

kilometres, hours

or

months)

which

I

occurs

first.

I On

stop

start

low

mileage

work,

the

hours

run are

more

applicable

than

the

mileage

covered.

Daily or every 8 hours

Check

coolant

level.

Check

sump oil level.

Check

oil pressure

(where

gauge is

fitted).

In extreme dust conditions, clean oil bath

air

cleaner

and empty dust

bowl

on dry type

air

cleaner.

Every 4,000 miles (6,000 km),
150 hours or 3 months

t Drain and renew

lubricating

oil (see list of approved

lubricating

oils

Appendix).

t Renew lubricating

oil

filter

element

or

canister.

Clean oil bath

air

cleaner.

Empty dust bowl on

dry

type

air

cleaner.

'Check

drive

belt tension.

Clean

water

trap.

Lubricate

dynamo

rear

bush (where

applicable).

Every 12,000 miles (18,000 km)

450 hours or 12 months

t Renew final fuel

filter

element -

agricultural

and in-

dustrial

applications.

Clean element

of

dry

type

air

cleaner

or

renew

(if

not

indicated

earlier).

Every 24,000 miles (36,000

km)

or 900 hours

Renew final fuel

filter

element -vehicle

applications.

miles (108,000

or

hours

Arrange

for

examination

and service

of

proprietary

equipment, i.e., compressor, exhauster, starter,

dynamo
etc.
Service atomisers.
Check

and

adjust

valve clearance.

t I

Refrigeration

unit

engines

have a larger

capacity

I

sump

and

larger

lubricating

oil

filter

canister,

therefore

the

lubricating

oil

and

filter

change

can

be

extended

to

1000

hours.

Also

with a primary

fuel

oil

filter

fitted,

the

main

fuel

filter

element

change

period

can

be

extended

to

1000

hours.

'The

drive belt

tension

should be

checked

monthly

on

engines rated

above

3,000

rev/min.

POST DELIVERY CHECKOVER

After a customer

has taken

delivery

of his Perkins

Diesel engine, it is advisable,

in

his own interest, that

a general

checkover

of

the engine be

carried

out

after

4.108

Series Workshop Manual, June

1986

OPERATING AND

MAINTENANCE-C.3

the first 500/1000 miles

(800/1600

km)

or

25/50

hours

in service.

It is also recommended

that

the

following

procedure

be adopted where an

engine

has been

laid

up

for

a

considerable period before it is again

put

into

service.

With the engine

thoroughly

warmed

through,

this

checkover

should

comprise

the

following

points.

1.

Drain

lubricating

oil sump. Renew

lubricating

oil

filter

element

or

canister.

(Refer

to

Page L.5

or

L.6)

.

2.

Remove the

rocker

assembly,

check

that

the

cylinder

head nuts are

to

the

correct

torque.

(Refer

to Page

B.2).

3.

Refit

rocker

assembly and set valve

clearances.

(Refer to Page

B.8).

4.

Refill

lubricating

oil sump

with

clean

new

oil

to

the

correct

level.

(Do

not

overfill).

5.

Check fan belt tension.

(Refer

to Page

M.1).

6.

Check

coolant

level in radiator,

inspect

for

any

coolant

leaks.

7.

Check

security of all external nuts, setscrews,

hose

clips, mountings, etc.

8.

Start engine and

check

for

any fuel

or

lubricating

oil leaks.

9.

Carry

out

test to

check

general

performance

of

engine.

Thereafter routine

maintenance

should be in

accord-

ance with Periodical Attentions

which

are given on

previous Page.

NOTE: If the

cylinder

head

is

removed

for

any

reason

e.g. top overhaul, then

it

is

recommended

that

the

cylinder

head

nuts are

retorqued

as

shown

in Fig. E.23

after

500/1000

miles

(800/1600

km)

or

25/50

hours

with the engine hot, to the

setting

given on Page B.2.

It

is

assumed

that

electrical

equipment

will

have

already

been

checked

for

such

points

as

dynamo

rate

of

charge, effectiveness

of

connections

and

circuits,

etc.

ProtecUon

of

an engine

not

in

service

The

recommendations

given

below

are

to

ensure

that

damage

is prevented when an

engine

is removed from

service

for

an

extended period. Use these

procedures

immediately

the

engine

is removed from service. The

instructions

for

the

use

of

POWERPART

products

are

given on the

outside

of

each

container.

1.

Thoroughly

clean

the

outside

of

the

engine.

2.

Where a preservative fuel is

to

be

used,

drain

the

fuel system and fill

with

the

preservative fuel.

POWERPART

lay-Up

1 can

be

added

to

the

normal

fuel

to

change

it

to

a preservative fuel. If

preservative fuel

is

not

used, the system can

be

Kept charged

with

normal fuel

but

this

will have

to

be

drained

and

discharged

at

the end of the

period

together

with

the fuel filter.

3.

Run the

engine

until

it

is warm.

Correct

any fuel,

lubricating

oil

or

air

leakage. Stop the

engine

and

drain

the

lubricating

oil

sump.

4.

Renew the

lubricating

oil filter canister.

5.

Fill

the

sump

to

the

tull

mark

on the

dipstick

with

c,ean

new

lubricating

oil

or

with a correct

preservative fluid. POWERPART

lay-Up

2 can be

added

to

the

lubricating

oil

to

give protection

against

corrosion

curing

the

period

in storage.

If a preservative fluid is used, this must be

drained

and

normal

lubricating

oil used when the

engine

is

returned

to service.

OPERATING

AND

MAINTENANCE-C.4

6.

Drain the

cooling

system, see below. To give

protection against corrosion, it

is

better to fill the
cooling system with a coolant that has a corrosion
inhibitor, see 'Engine Coolant' below.

If frost

protection is needed, use

an

antifreeze mixture.

If no frost protection is needed, use water with

an

approved corrosion inhibitor mixture.

7.

Run the engine

for

a short period

to

send the

lubricating oil and coolant around the engine.

8.

Clean out the engine breather pipe and seal the

end of the pipe.

9.

Remove the atomisers and spray POWERPART
Lay-Up 2 into each cylinder bore. If this is not
available, clean engine lubricating oil will give a

degree of protection. Spray into the cylinder

bores 140 ml

L1-

pint)

of lubricating oil divided

evenly between the

four

cylinders.

10. Slowly turn the crankshaft one revolution and then
install the atomisers complete with

new

seat

washers.

11. Remove the air filter and any pipe installed
between the air filter and induction manifold.
Spray

POWERPART Lay-Up 2 into the induction

manioold. Seal the manifold with waterproof tape.

12. Remove the exhaust pipe. Spray

POWERPART

Lay-Up 2

into the exhaust manifold. Seal the

manifold with waterproof tape.

13. Remove the lubricating oil

filler

cap. Spray

POWERPART Lay-Up 2 around tne

rocker

shaft

assembly. Fit the filler cap. Where the oil filler

cap is not on the cylinder head cover, remove
the cover to spray the rocker shaft assembly.

14. Disconnect the battery and put

it

into safe storage
in a fully charged condition. Before the battery is
put into storage, give the battery terminals a pro-
tection against corrosion.

POWERPART Lay-Up 3

can be used on the terminals.

15. Seal the vent pipe of the fuel tank

or

the fuel

filler

cap with waterproof tape.

16. Remove the fan belt and

put

it

into storage.

17. To prevent corrosion, spray the engine with
POWERPART Lay-Up 3. Do not spray inside the
alternator cooling fan area.

NOTE:

Before the engine is started after a period

in storage, operate the starter

motor

with the

engine stop control in the 'off' position until

oil pressure shows on the oil pressure gauge

or

the oil warning

light

goes out. If a solenoid

stop control is used, this will have

to

be

disconnected

for

this operation.
If the engine protection is done correctly
accoding

to

the above recommendations, no

corrosion damage will

normally

occur.

Perkins Engines Ltd. are

not

responsible

for

any damage that

occurs

in relation

to

a

service storage period.

Engine Coolant

1 he quality

of

the coolant used can have a large

effect on the efficiency and life

of

the

cooling

system.

The recommendations given

below

can be of assistance

in the maintenance of a good

cooling

system with

frost

and/or

corrosion protection.

1.

Where possible, use clean soft water.

I

2.

If

an

antifreeze

mixture,

other

than

Perkins

POWERPART, is

used

to

prevent

frost

damage,

it

must

have

an

ethanediol

(ethylene

glycol)

base

with a corrosion

inhibitor.

It

is

recommended

that

the

corrosion

inhibitor

is

of

the

sodium

nitrate/benzoate

type.

The

antifreeze

mixture

must

provide

cooling/corrosion

protection

at

least as

good

as

the

requirements

of

the

standards

below:

UK:

8S.6580:

1985:

"Specification

for

corrosion

inhibiting,

engine

coolant

concentrate

(antifreeze)".

U.S.A. ASTM 03306-74 'Ethylene Glycol Base Engine

Coolant'.

Australia

AS 2108-1977 'Antifreeze

Compounds

and

Corrosion

Inhibitors

for

Engine

Cooling

Systems'.

When Perkins POWER PART antifreeze is used, the

correct

mixtures of antifreeze and water are as
given below. Perkins POWERPART Antifreeze
fully passes the above standards.

Lowest

Temperature

of

Protection

Needed

-12°C ( 10°F)

-18°C

( O°F)

25°C (

13°F)

-37°C

(-34°F)

%Volume

of

POWERPART

Antilreeze

25
33

40

50

Mixture

Ratio

by

Volume

POWERPART

Antifreeze:Water

1:3
1:2
1:1.5

1

:1

The quality of the antifreeze coolant must be

checked at least once a year,

for

example, at

the start of the cold period.

3.

When frost protection is

not

necessary, it is still

an

advantage

to

use an approved antifreeze

mixture as

this

gives a protection against

corrosion and also raises

the

boiling

point

of the

coolant. A minimum

concentration

of 25% by

volume of antifreeze is necessary, but

it

is our

recommendation that

33%

concentration by

volume is used.

If an antifreeze is not used, add a

correct

corrosion

inhibitor

mixture

to

the water.

Change the

water/corrosion

inhibitor

mixture

every six

months

or

check

according

to

the

inhibitors manufacturer's recommendations.

Note:

Some corrosion

inhibitor

mixtures contain

soluble oil

which

can have an adverse effect on

some types of water hose.

If the

correct

procedures

are

not

used, Perkins Engines

Ltd., can

not

be held responsible

for

any frost

or

corrosion damage.

To Drain the Cooling System

1.

Ensure that

the

vehicle or machine is on level

ground.

2.

Remove

the

radiator filler cap.

3. Remove

the

drain

plug

from

the side of the

cylinder

block

(see engine views)

to

drain the

engine. Ensure that the drain hole does not

have any restriction.

4.

Open the tap

or

remove the drain plug at the

bottom

to

drain the radiator. If a tap

or

plug is

not fitted

to

the radiator, disconnect the bottom

radiator hose.

5.

Where necessary, flush the system with clean

water.

6. Fit the

drain

plugs and radiator cap. Where

necessary,

close

the radiator tap or connect the

radiator hose.

SECTION D

Fault Diagnosis

Fault

Possible Cause

Low

cranking

speed

1,

2,

3,

4.

Will not

start

5,

6,

7,

8,

9,

10, 12,

13, 14, 15,

16,

17, 18, 19,

20,

22,

31, 32,

33.

Difficult starting

5,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,18,19,20,21,22,24,29,

31,

32, 33.

Lack

of

power

8,9,

10, 11,

12, 13,

14,

18,

19,

20, 21,

22, 23, 24,

25, 26,

27,31,

32, 33.

Misfirjng

8,

9,

10,

12,

13, 14, 16,

18, 19,

20, 25,

26,

28, 29,

30,

'32.

Excessive fuel

consumption

11,

13, 14, 16, 18, 19,

20, 22,

23, 24,

25,

27, 28, 29,

31, 32, 33.

Black

exhaust

11,13,14,16,18,

19,20,22,24,25,27,28,29,31,32,33.

Blue/white

exhaust

4,

16, 18, 19, 20, 25,

27,

31,

33, 34, 35,

45,

56.

Low

oil pressure

4,

'36,

37, 38,

39,

40,

42,

43,

44, 58.

Knocking

9,

14, 16, 18, 19, 22,

26,

28,

29,

31,

33,

35, 36,

45,

46, 59.

Erratic

running

7,

8,

9,

10, 11, 12, 13,

14,

16,

20, 21, 23, 26,

28,

29,

30,

33, 35,

45, 59.

Vibration

13, 14,

20,

23,

25,

26,

29,

30,

33,

45, 47,

48,

49.

High oil pressure

4,

38,

41.

Overheating

11,

13, 14, 16,

18,

19,

24,

25,

45,

50, 51, 52, 53,

54,57.

Excessive crankcase pressure

25,

31, 33, 34,

45, 55, 60.

Poor compression

11,19,25,28,29,31,32,33,34,46,59.

Starts and stops

10, 11, 12.

Key

to Fault Finding Chart

1.

Battery

capacity

low.

31. Worn

cylinder

bores.

2.

Bad

electrical

connections.

32.

Pitted

valves and seats.

3. Faulty starter motor.

33. Broken,

worn

or

sticking

piston ring/so

4.

Incorrect

grade

of

lubricating oil.

34.

Worn valve stems

and

guides.

5.

low

cranking

speed.

'35.

Overfull

air

cleaner

or

use

of

incorrect

grade

of

6. Fuel

tank

empty.

oil.

7.

Faulty stop

control

operation.

36. Worn

or

damaged bearings.

8.

Blocked

fuel feed pipe.

37.

Insufficient

oil

in sump.

9.

Faulty fuel

lift

pump.

38.

Inaccurate

gauge.

10. Choked fuel filter.

39.

Oil

pump

worn.

11. Restriction in air

cleaner

or

induction

system.

40. Pressure relief valve

sticking

open.

12.

Air

in fuel system.

41.

Pressure relief valve

sticking

closed.

13. Faulty fuel

injection

pump.

42.

Broken

relief

valve spring.

14. Faulty atomisers

or

incorrect

type.

43. Faulty

suction

pipe.

15.

Incorrect

use

of

cold

start

equipment.

44.

Choked

oil filter.

16. Faulty

cold

starting equipment.

45. Piston

seizure/pick

up.

17. Broken fuel

injection

pump drive.

46.

Incorrect

piston

height.

18.

Incorrect

fuel pump timing.

47.

Damaged

fan.

19.

Incorrect

valve timing. 48. Faulty

engine

mounting

(Housing).

20.

Poor

compression. 49.

Incorrectly

aligned

flywheel housing,

or

flywheel.

21.

Blocked

fuel tank vent. 50. Faulty thermostat.

22.

Incorrect

type

or

grade

of fuel. 51.

Restriction

in

water

jacket.

23.

Sticking

throttle

or

restricted movement.

52.

Loose

fan belt.

24. Exhaust

pipe

restriction. 53.

Choked

radiator.

25.

Cylinder

head

gasket

leaking.

54. Faulty

water

pump.

26. Overheating.

55.

Choked

breather

pipe.

27. Cold running. 56.

Damaged

valve stem oil deflectors

(if

fitted).

28.

Incorrect

tappet

adjustment. 57.

Coolant

level

too

low.

29.

Sticking

valves.

58.

Blocked

sump

strainer.

30.

Incorrect

high pressure pipes. 59.

Broken

valve

spring.

60.

Defective

exhauster/leaking

vacuum pipe.

E1

Before

commencing

to

overhaul

the

cylinder

head

ensure

that all

joints,

gaskets

and any

other

parts

ex-

pected

to

be

required

are available.

Remove any

external

components

from the

vicinity

of

the

cylinder

head cover,

atomisers

and fuel pump.

E3

SECTION E

Cylinder Head

E2

To Remove the Cylinder

Head

1.

Completely

drain

the

cooling

system.

2.

Disconnect

the

battery

terminals.

3. Remove

the

securing

nuts

and

detach

the

exhaust

pipe

from

the

exhaust

manLold.

Blank

off

the

end

of

the

exhaust

pipe

to

prevent

entry

of

any

foreign

matter.

CYLINDER

HEAD-E.2

E4

4.

Uncouple

the

water

outlet

connection

on the

front

of

the

cylinder

head.

5.

Remove

the

air

cleaner

and

place

somewhere

level

ready

for

servicing.

6.

Disconnect

the fuel

pipe

and

electrical

connection

to

the

starting

aid

located

in

the

induction

mani-

fold.

(Refer

to

Fig.

E.1).

E5

E6

7.

Remove

the

cylinder

head

cover

togther

with

the

breather

pipe.

8.

Unscrew

the

oil

feed

pipe

to

the

rocker

shaft

at

the

cylinder

head

end.

(Refer

to

Fig. E.2

for

its

location)

.

9.

Remove

the

eight

rocker

shaft

bracket

securing

nuts

evenly

and

remove

the

rocker

shaft

complete

with

the

oil

feed

pipe.

(Refer

to

Fig.

E.3).

E7

10. Remove the

eight

push rods and place

somewhere

safe

(possibly

in the

cylinder

head

cover)

to

avoid the

possibility

of

any being

accidentally

bent.

11.

Unscrew

the

small

banjo

bolts on the

tops

of

the

atomisers

and

remove the leak-off pipe by unscrew-

ing

the

union

on

top

of

the fuel filter.

12. Remove

the

low

pressure fuel pipes between the

fuel

filter

and

the fuel pump, remove the fuel

filter

after

disconnecting

the feed

pipe

from the

lift

pump,

blank

off all pipes and ports

to

prevent

ingress

of

foreign

particles.

13. Remove the

four

high pressure fuel pipes from the

fuel

pump

to

the

atomisers.

Blank

off fuel pump

outlet

ports.

14. Remove the

atomiser

securing

nuts and

carefully

remove the atomisers.

(Refer

to Fig.

EA).

Blank off the exposed

ports

on the atomisers.

15.

Uncouple

the

dynamo

or

alternator

adjusting

link.

E8

CYLINDER

HEAD-E.3

E9

16. Remove the

cylinder

head

securing

nuts

and

lift

off the

cylinder

head

complete

with

the

inlet

and

exhaust

manifolds.

(Refer

to Fig.

E.5).

NOTE: On 4.99

and

4.107 engines,

to

prevent

liner

movement

should

the

engine

be

turned

with

the

cylinder

head removed,

it

is

suggested

that

the

liners

are held in

position

by

suitable

tubing

placed

over

two

of

the

cylinder

head

studs

and

locked

with

nuts

and

washers.

To Remove the Valves

With

earlier

engines,

the

valves were

numbered

and

the

cylinder

head was

marked

with

corresponding

numbers

(see fig.

E.6).

With

current

engines, the valves

and

seats are

not

numbered

and

where

a valve is to be used again,

it

should

be

suitably

identified

to

ensure it is

replaced

in

its

original

position.

1. Remove

collets

by

compressing

the

valve

springs

as

shown

in Fig. E.7.

2.

Remove the

spring

caps,

springs,

seals

(where

fitted)

and

spring

seats. Remove valves.

E10

CYLINDER

HEAD-E.4

E11

COMBUSTION CHAMBER INSERTS

These can be

gently

tapped out of

their

locations

by

means

of

a short length

of

curved

bar

through

the

atomiser

bore. When refitting they must be

located

by

means of expansion washers in the recesses provided,

as shown in Figs. E.8 and E.g.

E13

Cleaning

Remove any

carbon

from the

cylinder

head.

If the

water

jacket

within

the

cylinder

head shows

signs

of

excessive scale, then a

proprietary

brand of

descaling

solution

may be used, if

possible

the

cylinder

head should be tested

for

water

leakage

after

such

treatment

at

the pressure given on Page B.7.

VALVE SPRINGS

It is

advisable

to fit new valve

springs

whenever the

engine

undergoes a major

overhaul. Where a

top

over-

haul only is

being

carried out the

springs

should

be

examined, paying

particular

attention

to

squareness

of

ends and pressures developed at

specific

lengths, the

details of

which

can

be

found on Page B.8.

E12

VALVE GUIDES

The worn

guides

should

be removed

either

by means

of

a press and a suitable

"dolly"

or

the valve

guide
removal tool shown in Fig. E.10.
Before fitting the

new

guides

remove any

burrs

from

the

cylinder

head

parent

bores,

then

smear

the

bores

with

clean oil and

either

press

in the

new

guides

or

pull them in by means

of

the

tool

shown

in Fig. E.11,

until

the

guide

protrusion

above the head

top

face is
that quoted on Page B.7.
NOTE: Special

care

should

be

exercised

during

this

operation

as the guides,

being

made

of

cast iron, are

therefore

comparatively

brittle.

E14

E15

Inlet

INLET
VALVE

A-1.530

in to 1.531 in

8-0.3125

in

to 0.3175 in

EXHAUST

VALVE

C-0.015

in

chamfer

at

45

(Max.)

Exhaust

A-1.296

in to 1.297. in

8-0.3125

in

to

0.3175 in

C-0.015

in

chamfer

at

45

(Max.)

VALVES AND VALVE SEATS

The

valves

should

be

checked

in

their

respective

guides

for

wear

and

replaced

if

wear

has

taken

place.

(ensure

that

the

wear

is in

fact

on

the

valve

stem

and

not

in

the

guide

bore

before

replacing

the

valve).

The

valve

and

valve

seat

faces

should

be

reconditioned

in

the

normal

way

using

specialised

equipment

or

with

grinding

compound,

according

to

their

condition.

A

valve

seat

(hand

operated)

cutting

tool

is

shown

in

Fig. E.12.

Valves

should

always

be

refitted

to

their

original

seats

and

any

new

valve

fitted

should

be

suit-

ably

marked

to

identify

its

position

if

removed

at a later

date.

(Refer

to

Fig. E.6

for

illustration

of

valve

num-

bering)

.

Before

refitting

the

valves

it

should

be

ascertained

whether

the

valve

head

depth

relative

to

the

cylinder

head

face

is

within

the

limits

given

on

Page

B.2.

This

depth

can

be

checked,

as

shown

in Fig. E.13,

by

placing a straight

edge

across

the

face

of

the

cylinder

head,

then

by

careful

selection

of

feeler

guages

mea-

suring

the

distance

between

the

straight

edge

and

the

head

of

the

valve.

Where

vehicle

engines

have to

conform

with

the

smoke

density

regulation

B.S.AU

141a:

1971,

then

valve

depths

must

not

exceed

production

limits

as

given

on

page

B.B.

Where

this

depth

exceeds

the

maximum

limit

and

even

the

fitting

of a new

valve

does

not

reduce

this

depth

below

the

maximum

limit,

then

the

remedy

is

to

fit

a

valve

seat

insert

as

detailed

later.

When

refacing

valves

or

valve

seats

care

should

be

taken

to

see

that

only

the

minimum

amount

of

metal

necessary

to

obtain a satisfactory

seat

is

removed,

and

that

as

narrow a valve

seat

as

possible

is

maintained.

Hand

Grinding

When

grinding

or

lapping·in

valves

make

certain

that

all

signs

of

pitting

are

removed

from

the

seats.

CYLINDER

HEAD-E.S

k

c

tot

_I

!

I

; 1

-i........

GRAD

A

B

t

.

F

\.

0

.1

E16
Material

EN32A Case

Hardened

and

Ground

Inlet

Dimensions

A-2.75

in

8-2

in

C-0.75

in

0-0.309

in

to

0.310 in

E-1/16

in at 45

F-1/16

in at 45°

G-1/32

in

Radius

H-1.238

in to 1.239 in

J-0.222

in to 0.225 in

K-1.523

in to 1.533 in

Exhaust

Dimensions

A-2.75

in

8-2

in

C-0.75

in

0-0.309

in to 0.310 in

E-1

/1

6 in

at

45 °

F-1/16

in

at

45°

G-1/32

in

Radius

H-1.018

in

to

1.019 in

J-0.222

in

to

0.225 in

K-1.287

in

to

1.297 in

After

all

the

valves

have

been

lapped

in

the

valve

head

depths

relative

to

the

cylinder

head

face

should

be

checked

to

ensure

that

they

are

within

the

limits

given

on

Page

B.B.

CYLINDER

HEAD-E.6

E17

~

I

•

VALVE SEAT INSERTS

Valve seat inserts

are

not

fitted to

production

engines,

but

may be fitted in service.

When fitting inserts ensure

that

only

genuine

Perkins

parts

are used.

In

order

to fit these inserts

proceed

as follows:

1.

Fit

new valve

guides

as

described

on Page E.4.

2.

Using the

new

valve

guide

bore

as a pilot,

machine

the insert recess in the

cylinder

head face to the

dimensions

shown

in Fig. E.15.

3.

Remove all

machining

swarf

and

thoroughly

clean

the insert recess

(removing

any burrs

which

may

be

present).

4.

Using the valve

guide

bore

as a

pilot

once

again

press the insert home

with

the

inserting

tool, this

tool is shown fully

dimensioned

in Fig. E.16.

NOTE: The insert must

not

under

any

circum-

stances be hammered in,

neither

should

any lubri-

cation

be used.

5. Visually

inspect

to ensure

that

the

insert has been

pressed fully home, i.e. is flush

with

the

bottom

of

the recess.

6. Recut

the

valve seat at an

included

angle of

90'

(which

will

give

the

normal

45'

seat) until

the

valve head

depth

reaches the

minimum

limit

which

is given on Page B.8.

Lightly

lap

the valve to its

new

seat.

E18

To

Dismantle the Rocker Shaft Assembly

1.

Remove the retaining

circlips

from

each

end

of

the

rocker

shaft.

2.

Withdraw

the

rocker

levers,

springs

and

support

brackets

from the

rocker

shaft.

3.

Unscrew the oil feed

pipe

from

the

banjo

and

re-

move the banjo.

(When

refitting

this

feed

pipe

it

should be noted

that

the

end

of

the

pipe

locates

the

banjo

position

on the

shaft).

Examine the

rocker

bushes and

shaft

for

wear. The

rocker

levers

should

be an easy fit on the

rocker

shaft

without

excessive

side

play.

New

rocker

levers are

supplied

complete

with

bush

fitted and reamed

to

size.

NOTE: When

fitting

new

bushes

ensure

that the

oil

feed holes are

in

alignment

before

pressing

home;

and

when

pressed

fully

home

that the

holes

coincide.

(Refer to Fig.

£,17).

To Re-Assemble the Rocker Shaft Assembly

1.

Refit the

oil

feed

banjo

and

locate

with

the feed

pipe.

2.

Refit the

rocker

levers,

springs

and

support

brackets

in the

opposite

order

to

which

they

were

removed.

Lightly

oil

the

components

during

re-

assembly

and ensure

that

each

rocker

lever

does

not

bind

on the shaft. The

assembly

should

now

be

as shown in Fig. E.18.

PUSH RODS

Check

the push

rods

for

straightness, if any are

bent

then fit new replacements.

To Refit

the

Valves

Lightly

oil

the valve stems

to

provide

the

initial

lubrica-
tion.
Replace valves,

springs,

spring

plates, washers,

collars

and

collets,

taking

care

that the

numbers

on the valves

correspond

to the

numbers

stamped

adjacent

to

the

valve seat

(see

Fig.

E.6).

NOTE: Valve

springs

incorporate a

damper

coil

and

care

should

be

taken

to ensure that this

damper

coil

is

to

the

bottom

of

the

spring

i.e., nearest the

cylinder

head

when

fitted.

Inner valve

springs

are

not

required for engines rated

at

3,000

rev/min

and

below.

4.108

engines

and 4.99 vehicle engines are fitted with

rubber

sealing rings on

inlet

valves only.

All

latest 4.107 and 4.99

agricultural

and industrial

engines

incoroporate

oil

deflectors

on both

inlet

and

exhaust valves.

In the case

of

earlier

4.107 and 4.99

agricultural

and

industrial

engines

which

incorporate

rubber

sealing

rings

on

the

inlet

valves only, oil

deflectors

should be

fitted

to

both inlet and exhaust valves

after

the valve

assembly has been

dismantled.

With this arrangement,

a

different

valve

spring

seating washer is required

for

exhaust

vales.

Where a

groove

is

cut

on the

inlet

valve stem, a

rubber

sealing

washer

should

be fitted in

addition

to

the de-

flector

to

stop

the

later

from

becoming

canted

on the
stem.
Oil

deflectors

should not be fitted to 4.99

vehicles

and

some 4.108 engines.

CYLINDER HEAD GASKET

Always use a

new

cylinder

head gasket. Ensure that

the

correct

type is used.

4.108 Engines

With

this

engine, the

gasket

is made

of a black

com-

posite material and is known

as

the

Klinger

type. It

MUST be fitted DRY and on

no

account

should

joint-

ing

compound

be used.

It is very

important

that the gasket is

placed

correctly,

otherwise

the steel

beading

may be

nipped

between

the

cylinder

head face and the

top

of the liner.

4.107

and

4.99

These engines use a

copper

and asbestos

or

a copper,

steel and asbestos gasket. These gaskets

should

be

fitted

with a light

coating

of

Perkins

(Hylomar)

jointing

compound

on both sides.

To

Rem

Cylinder

Head

1. Place the

cylinder

head

gasket

carefully

in posi-

tion

on the

cylinder

block

face

(the

gasket

is

marked

"TOP

FRONT" to

indicate

how

it

should

be

fitted).

(Refer

to Fig. E.22).

2.

Lower

the

cylinder

head

into

position

on

top

of

the

gasket

ensuring that it lays

perfectly

level.

3.

Lightly

lubricate

both

cylinder

head

studs

and nuts

with

engine

oil, then

tighten

the nuts

progressively

in three stages in the

sequence

shown

in Fig. E.23

to

the

torque

given on page B.2.

This

final

torque

tightening

stage should be repeated to ensure

that

no

loss

of

tension has taken place on any studs

earlier

in

the

sequence.

With

current

engines,

washers

are fitted

under

the

cylinder

head nuts

which

necessitates

longer

cylinder

head studs. The

cylinder

head

tightening

torque

re-

mains

unaltered.

CYLINDER

HEAD-E.1

1

II

F"t---2

---_

3

6

7 8

E19

1.

Retaining

Collets

2.

Spring

Caps

3.

Inner

Valve

Springs

4.

Outer

Valve

Springs

5.

Spring

Seating

Washers

6.

'0'

Sealing

Ring

(Inlet

Valves

only)

7.

Inlet

Valves

8.

Exhaust

Valve

CYLINDER

HEAD-E.8

E20

4.

Fit the

push

rods

in

their

locations

then

carefully

fit

the

rocker

shaft

assembly,

noting

that

the

valve

adjusting

screw

ends

locate

in

their

respective

push rod

cups

and

the

oil

feed

to the

rocker

shaft

is

located

correctly.

5.

Locate

the

oil

feed

pipe

nut

just

finger

tight

at

this

stage,

then

evenly

tighten

the

rocker

shaft

bracket

securing

nuts

to a torque

of

12 - 15

Ibf

It

(1,7

2

kgf

m)

now

tighten

the

oil

feed

pipe

nut.

When

correctly

located

the

oil

feed

pipe

will

be

as

shown

in Fig. E.2.

NOTE:

If

the

oil

feed

pipe

nut

is

tightened

before

the

rocker

shaft

bracket

securing

nuts,

:he

pipe

will

either

be

strained

or

the

olive

pulled

off

the

feed

pipe.

E22

E21

6.

Adjust

the

valve

clearances

to

0.012 in

(0.3

mm)

as

follows:-

Turn

the

engine

so

that

the

valves

of

No.1

cylinder

are

in

the

position

of

'valve

overlap',

i.e.

the

period

between

the

opening

of

the

inlet

valve

and

the

closing

of

the

exhaust

valve. In

this

position,

adjust

the

clearances

of

No. 4 cylircder

valves:

similarly

with

the

valves

of

No. 3 cylinder

in

the

overlap

position,

adjust

the

valves

of

No. 2 cylinder.

With

valves

of

No. 4

in

the

overlap

pOSition,

adjust

the

valves

of

No. 1

cylinder

and

finally

with

valves

of

No.2

cylinder

in

overlap

position,

adjust

valves

on

NO.3

cylinder.

7.

Replace

the

dynamo

or

alternator

adjusting

link

and

tension

the

fan

belt

(Refer

to

Page

M.1

i.

E23

8.

Replace

the

atomisers

(Refer

to

Page

N.l0)

but

do

not

tighten

the

securing

nuts.

9.

Replace

the

leak

off

pipe

assembly

and

four

high

pressure

fuel

pipes

to

the

atomisers.

Tighten

the

atomiser

securing

nuts.

NOTE:

The

correct

tightening

torque

for

high

pres-

sure fuel

pipe

nuts

is 15 Ibf

It

(2,1 kgf

m)

or

20.

Nm

and

for

the

atom

iser

securing

nuts

is 12 Ibf

It

(1,7 kgf

m)

or

16 Nm.

1

D.

Replace

the

fuel oil

filter

and

the

low

pressure

fuel

pipes

between

filter

and

lift

pump

and

filter

and fuel

pump.

11.

Reconnect

the

electrical

and

fuel

supplies

to

the

starting

aid.

12.

Reconnect

the

exhaust

pipe

to the

manifold.

13.

Reconnect

the

water

outlet

connection

at

the

front

of

the

cylinder

head.

14. Fill the

cooling

system

with

clean

water

ensuring

the

drain

taps

are

turned

off.

Check

for

water

leaks

15.

Bleed

the

air

from

the fuel system as

decribed

on

Page N.11.

16.

Reconnect

the

battery.

the

Proceed

as

instructed

on Page C.1, with the

engine

running

at a fast

idle

check

that

the

oil

pressure

is

satisfactory

and

that

the

oil

reaches

the

rocker

assem-

bly and

oozes

gently

from

the

rocker

levers

at

this
speed.
With

the

coolant

outlet

temperature

higher

than

170.

0 F

(77

e

C),

tighten

the

cylinder

head

nuts

in

the

order

given in Fig. E23 and

to

the

torque

given

on

Page

B.2.

If a

nut

moves

when

checked,

lighten

it

to

the

correct
torque.
If a nut

does

not

move

before

the

correct

torque

is

reached,

loosen

the

nut

by

1/12

to

1/6

(3D'

to

60.')

of

a turn and

then

tighten

to

the

correct

torque.

CYLINDER

HEAD-E.g

4

•

10

10.

positions

again

to

ensure

that

they

are

still

to

the

correct

toque.

During

this

last

check,

do

not

loosen

the

nuts.

Replace

the

rocker

shaft

as

previously

described

and

set

the

valve

clearances

to

0..0.12

in

(0.,30.

mm)

COLD.

Start

engine

and

check

oil

flow

to

rocker

levers,

if

satisfactory

refit

cylinder

head

cover

and

air

cleaner.

Finally

check

for

oil

leaks

and

rectify

immediately

if

any

are

visible.

It

is

important

that

the

cylinder

head

nuts

are

re-

tightened

to the

correct

torque.

in the

correct

sequence,

after

the

engine

has

completed

between

500/1000

miles

(800/1600

kmJ

or

25/50

hours.

After

all

the

nuts

have been

tightened,

check

the

first

E24

SECTION F

Pistons and Connecting Rods

F1

To Remove Pistons and Connecting Rods

1. Remove the

cylinder

head assembly. (Refer to

Page

E.1).

2.

Remove the oil sump. (Refer to Page

L.1

).

NOTE: Any

ridges

or

carbon

deposits

around the

top

of

the

cylinder

bore should be removed

with

a suitable

scraper

before

piston

removal is

attempted.

3.

Rotate

the

crankshaft

until one

pair

of

big ends are

at

bottom

dead

centre, then remove

their

respec-

tive

connecting

rod cap

securing

bolts.

4.

Remove the

connecting

rod

caps

and

bearing

shells.

(Refer

to

Fig. F.1).

NOTE:

If

the

bearing

shells are serviceable, they

should

be

suitably

marked

to

identify

them to

their

original

locations.

5.

Push the

pistons

and

connecting

rods

carefully

out

through

the top

of

the

block

and remove as

shown

in Fig. F.2.

6.

Rotate the

crankshaft

through

180 Q

to

bring

the

remaining

pair

of

big ends

to

bottom

dead

centre

and

repeat

removal operations.

When

piston

removal has been

carried

out keep

each

piston

and

rod assembly separate,

each

to

each as marked.

Mark

the

pistons

on the

crown

(before

removing

the

gudgeon

pin)

to

indicate

the

'FRONT' in

relation

to

the 'FRONT'

marking

cast

on the

connecting

rods.

To Remove Pistons and Rings from the
Connecting Rods

1. Remove the

piston

rings from

each

piston, using a

suitable

piston

ring

tool,

such a tool

is shown in
Fig. F.3.
NOTE: The

laminated

segments

or

spring

loaded

rings fitted in the fourth ring

groove

should

be

F2

With 4.108

pistons

there

is a steel

insert

rolled

into

the

top

ring

groove

during

piston

manufacture.

It

should

be

regarded

as an integral

part

of

the

piston

and

no

attempt

should

be

made

to

remove

it from its

location.

2.

Remove the

circlip

retaining

the

gudgeon

pin

and

push out the

gudgeon

pin to release

the

con-

necting

rod.

NOTE:

Should

difficulty

be

experienced

in

re-

moving

the

gudgeon

pin,

warm

the

piston

in a

suit-

able

clean

liquid

(usually

water)

to a

temperature

of

100-120°F,

(40-50°C),

this

will

then

enable

the

pin

to

be

pushed

out

quite

easily.

removed by hand. F3

PISTONS AND CONNECTING

RODS-F.2

!nspection

1. Examine

the

pistons

for

scoring

and any

signs

of

groove damage.

2.

Check the

clearance

of

the

piston rings in

their

respective

grooves

by placing the ring outer face

into the

groove

and a suitable sized feeler between

the ring and

groove

face.

NOTE: All

ring

gaps, ring groove

clearances

etc.,

are

given in the Technical Data

Section

on Page

B.4.

3.

Check

the

fitted gaps

of

the piston rings, bearing

in mind that in worn

cylinder

bores these gaps

should be

checked

at

the

bottom

of

the bore.

4.

Check the fit

of

the

gudgeon

pin

in the small end

bush, if

excessive, replace the small end bush.

5.

To renew the small end bush, remove the old one
by means

of

a suitable press and

'dolly'.

Press in

the new bush, ensuring

that

the oil holes

coincide
when fitted. Ream out the new bush to suit the
gudgeon pin, then

check

the rod

for

parallelism

and twist.

(Refer

Page

B.5).

6.

Examine the big end bearing shells

for

any

signs

of

wear

or

pitting.

To Refit the Pistons

to

the Connecting Rods

If the

original

pistons

are to be refitted they must be

re-assembled to the same

connecting

rods, i.e. No. 1

piston

to

No.1

connecting

rod assembly. Refer

to

Figs.

F.4 and F.5

for

location

of

piston and rod

numbering.

Any new

components

fitted

should

be numbered

the

same as those

which

they replace.

Note:

Where

controlled

expansion pistons are fitted,

these

have a 0.020 in (0,51

mm)

off-set

gudgeon

pin

towards

the camshaft side

of

the engine and when

replacing

these pistons, they

must

be fitted

the

correct

way round, i.e.,

the

word

"FRONT"

or

arrow

on

the

piston crown

to

the

front

of

the

engine. If

these

marks

have been removed by

machining

the crown,

then

the

small round recess in the

gudgeon

pin

bore

'A'

Fig.

F.6, must face

the

front

of

the engine.

Where

controlled

expansion pistons

with

off-set

pins

are fitted, the latest phosphated

crankshaft

pulley

setscrew

must be used.

1.

Warm the piston in a

suitable

clean

liquid

to

a

temperature

of

100 -

120'F

(40 -

50"C)

which

will

enable

the

gudgeon

pin

to

be easily pushed

into the

piston

bore

when the

piston

and

rod have

been

correctly

aligned

F5

•

F4

2.

Place No. 1

piston

onto

its

head,

noting

the posi-

tion

of

the

mark

previously

made

to

indicate

the

"FRONT".

3.

Hold No. 1

connecting

rod

with

the small end

between the

gudgeon

pin bores so

that

the

word

"FRONT"

cast

on the rod is

towards

the same

side.

4.

Push the

gudgeon

pin

into

the

piston

thus

locating

the

connecting

rod in

position.

5. Fit the

two

retaining

circlips

ensuring

that

they

locate

correctly

in

their

recesses. (Refer

to

Fig.

F.7).

NOTE: If the

engine

has been in

service

for

some

considerable

time

it is

advisable

to fit new

circlips,

even if the old

ones

do

not

appear

to

be

strained

or

damaged.

6. Repeat this

procedure

for

the

three

remaining

pistons

and

connecting

rods.

•

•

•

• •

A----+--O

F6

Fitting the Piston Rings

Fit

piston

rings to the piston. Rings vary

according

to

engine

type and

application

as follows: reading from

the

top

of the piston.

4.108 Engines

Standard Pistons

: 1.

12.

I

13.

14.

15.

I ,

I

Plain parallel faced compression
Internally

stepped compression

Internally

stepped

compression

Laminated

segment

oil

control'

Slotted

scraper

Engines

rated at 3,000

rev/min

and

below

have a

slotted

scraper

fitted in the fourth

groove

which

has the same width, clearance and

gap

as

the

fifth piston ring.

; Controlled Expansion Pistons

: These have

either

four

or

three rings

per

piston as

I

follows:

PISTONS AND CONNECTING

RODS-F.3

: 1.

Chrome

insert

parallel faced

I 2.

Internally

stepped

I 3.

Internally

stepped F8

: 4.

Spring

loaded

scraper

I 1.

Chrome

taper

faced

I 2.

Internally

stepped

taper

faced

: 3.

Spring

loaded

scraper

F7

4.99

Vehicle

Engines

1.

Chrome

parallel

faced

compression.

2.

Internally

stepped

compression.

3.

Internally

stepped

compression.

4.

Slotted

scraper.

5.

Slotted

scraper.

4.107 and 4.99

Agricultural

and

Industrial

Engines

1. Plain

parallel

faced

compression.

2.

Internally

stepped

compression.

*

3.

Internally

stepped

compression.

*

4.

Chrome

spring

loaded

scraper.

5.

Slotted

scraper.

*4.99

agricultural

engines

have

taper

faced

cast

iron

compression

rings

fitted

in the 2nd

and

3rd ring
grooves.
After

an

appropriate

period

of

service, when

indica-

tions

of

piston

ring

and/or

cylinder

bore

wear

may be-

come

apparent, a replacement

ring

pack

has been

made

available

for

fitting

exclusively

to 4.99 service

engines

and

includes a taper

faced ring

for

fitting

in

the

top

ring

groove.

NOTE:

All

the

rings

quoted

above

except

the

laminated

and

spring

loaded

type

may

be

fitted

by

means

of

an

PISTONS AND CONNECTING

RODS-F.4

expanding

tool

of

the

type

shown

in Fig. F.3. These

rings,

being

made

of

cast

iron

are therefore com-

paratively

brittle,

so

when

fitting

care

should

be

taken

not

to

expand

any

ring

more than

is

necessary to just

clear

the piston.

SECOND

AND

FOURTH

SEGMENTS

FIRST

AND THIRD

SE.GMENTS

laminated

Segment Rings

The

procedure

for

fitting the

laminated

type is different,

in as much as the ring

comprises

four

separate seg-

ments, these may be fitted by hand in the

following

sequence

with the piston

crown

uppermost:-

1. Fit

the

first

segment

to

the

piston

so

that

when

held

horizontally

between

the

thumb

and fingers

and radially compressed

the

ring

ends

point

downwards

(see Fig. F.9).

F10

Place this ring on the bottom face

of

the fourth

ring groove with the

gap

over the

gudgeon

pin

bore.

PISTON

CROWN

F9

2.

Fit the

second

segment

on

top

of

the

first,

so

that

when

compressed

as

described

above

the

ends

point

upwards.

Position

the

gap

at

1800 to

that

of

the

first segment.

3.

Fit the

third

segment

as in

(1)

above

with

the

gap

immediately

above the

gap

of the

first

segment.

4.

Fit

the fourth

segment

as in

(2)

above with the

gap

immediately

above the

gap

of

the

second

seg-

ment.

If all

the

segments

have been

fitted

correctly

then

they

will

be

positioned

as

shown

above.

The

gaps

of

the remaining rings should be stag-

gered

alternately

along the gudgeon pin axis.

Liberally

lubricate

the rings in

their

grooves and

see

that

they can move freely

in

their

locations,

this does

not

apply

to

the laminated type in the

fourth groove,

which

if

correctly

fitted should not

move

freely

due to the outward pressure

of

the top

and bottom segments on the ring

groove

walls.

When all the

rings

have been fitted, they

should

be shown in Fig. F.9.

Always

ensure

that

internally stepped

or

taper

faced

rings are

correctly

fitted. They are

marked

TOP

or

BTM

(bottom)

to

ensure

correct

replacement.

The top

compression

and

slotted

oil

control

rings may

be fitted

either

way up.

Spring

loaded

Scraper Ring

When fitting the

chrome

plated spring loaded

scraper

ring. (see Fig.

F.1

0).

the

following

procedure

should

be

adopted:-

1. Fit internal

expander

(1).

2.

Fit

two

rail

rings

(2)

at the bottom of the groove.

3.

Fit

spiral ring

(3).

4.

Fit

two

top

rail rings

(2).

When fitting rail rings, the gaps should be staggered.

To Fit Piston and Connecting Rod Assemblies

Before fitting the piston and

connecting

rod assemblies

to

their

respective

cylinder

bores,

thoroughly

clean

and liberally

coat

each bore

with

clean

engine

oil.

1. Turn the

engine

until the

crankpins

of

numbers

1 and 4

cylinders

are

at

the bottom dead centre.

2.

Using a

suitable

ring

clamp

of

the type

shown

in

Fig. F.11,

carefully

compress

the

rings

of

No. 1

piston and

hold

in this position.

3.

With the

word

'FRONT' on the

connecting

rod

facing

the

front

ot

the engine, insert the rod care-

fully into

No.1

cylinder

bore.

NOTE: The

cylinders

are numbered

1,

2,

3,

4

starting from the

front

(water

pump)

end

of

the

engine. It is extremely

important

that

these com-

ponents

(marked

as

shown

in Figs. F.4 and F.5),

are

returned

to

their

original

locations.

4.

The piston head may be

gently

tapped

with

the

shaft

of a hammer

as shown in Fig.

F.11

until

all

the rings have entered

the

cylinder

bore.

5.

Draw the rod

towards

the

crankpin,

place the top

half bearing shell in

position

locating

the tag in

the

machined

slot and

liberally

oil,

draw

the rod

onto

the

crankpin.

6.

Fit

the

lower

half

bearing shell

to

the

connecting

rod cap,

locating

the tag in

the

machined

slot,

liberally

oil

and

fit the

cap

to

the

crankpin,

ensur-

ing that the numbers on

the

rod and

cap

coincide

as shown in Fig. F.4.

PISTONS AND CONNECTING

RODS-F.S

F11

7.

Fit the

two

connecting

rod

securing

setscrews

and

tighten

evenly

to

the

torque

quoted

on Page B.2.

NOTE:

Locking

tabs are

not

fitted

to

these

set-

screws.

8.

Repeat

this

procedure

for

No. 4

piston

and

con-

necting

rod assembly.

9.

Rotate

the

crankshaft

to

bring

numbers 2 and

3

crankpins

to

bottom

dead centre.

10. Repeat

procedures

2 - 7

to

fit the

two

remaining

assemblies.

11. Refit the

lubricating

oil sump.

(Refer

Page

L.4).

12. Refit the

cylinder

head assembly.

(Refer

Page

E.7).

Fitting

New

Pistons

With

new 4.108

and

4.107

pistons a machining

allow-

ance

is

provided

on the

crown

of

the

piston

to

enable

the

necessary

material

to

be removed by means

of

a

lathe

so

that

when

fitted the

piston

height

above the

cylinder

block

top

face

will

be

within

the

limits

quoted
on Page B.3.
To

determine

the

exact

amount

to be removed from

the

piston

crown, the piston,

connecting

rod and bear-

ing

assembly

will

have

to

be

fitted

to

its respective

cylinder

bore

as

previously

described,

and

the

piston

height

above

the

cylinder

block

top

face measured

with

the

particular

piston

at

top

dead centre. This

piston

height

can be measured by means of a

piston

height

gauge

of

the

type

shown

in Fig. F.12. Repeat

for

each

new

piston

to

be

fitted

and

mark

each piston

with

the

number

of

the

cylinder

bore

it

will

belong

to,

(not

on

the

top

as any

marking

here

will

be removed

by the

machining).

When

each

piston

has been

skimmed

it

should

be

checked

again

when finally re-

fitted

to

ensure

that

any new

piston

fitted is

now

within

the

limits

quoted.

Once

the

piston

height

is

correct

mark

any

such

piston

on the

crown

with

the

number

of

its

respective

bore.

(Refer

to

Fig. F.5).

Pretopped

pistons

are

available

for

fitting to 4.108

vehicle

engines

and

all

4.99

engines

and are available

in

three

grades

(see

separate

tables).

For

identification

purposes,

the

grade

letter

is

stamped

on the

piston

crown.

PISTONS AND CONNECTING

RODS-F.S

Where

pretopped

pistons

are used, then the piston

height

can

be

slightly

lower

than

the

limits

given.

It is

important

to

note

that

where

vehicle

engines

have

to

conform

to

the

smoke

density

regulation

B.S.AU

141

a:

1971, then

the

piston

height

production

limits

must

be

maintained.

It

will

of

course

be

appreciated

that

grade

F pistons

are

suitable

for

topping

to

give

other

grades

where

these are

not

to hand.

After

fitting

pre-topped

pistons, the

distance

between

the

cylinder

block

face

and p:ston

crowns

should

be

checked

to

ensure

the

limit

is as

already

quoted

(See

Fig.

F.12).

4.108 Vehicle Engines

Production

Grade

A

to

F

G

to

L

M

to

P

4.99 Engines

Production

Grade

B,

D,

& F

H, J,

& L

N

& P

Equivalent

Service

Grade

F

L

P

Equivalent

Service

Grade
F
L

P

F12

SECTION G

Cylinder Block and Liners

CYLINDER LINERS

(4.108

ENGINES)

The

cylinder

liners

fitted

to

the 4.108 series

engines

are

centrifugally

cast

alloy

iron, they are an

interference

fit in

the

cylinder

block

parent

bore and

of

the

thinwall

dry

type.

Reboring

of

these

liners

is

not

possible

and

new

liners

should

be fitted when a

rebore

would

normally

be con-

sidered

necessary.

The

exception

is 4.108

refrigeration

unit

engines

which

can be

rebored

to

0.020 in (0,51

mm)

oversize. It

must

be noted

that

the

oversize

pistons

for

these

engines

are

only

suitable

for

this

type of

application

due

to

the

special

operating

conditions.

Dimensional

checks

of

the

cylinder

bore are

carried

out

by means

of

the gauge

tool

shown in Fig. G.1.

When

checking

liners

each one

should

be measured

in

three

positions

- top,

centre

and bottom; the read-

ings being taken parallel and at

right

angles

to

the

centre

line of the

cylinder

block

giving

six

readings

for

each

cyl

inder

bore.

When

checking

the

fitted internal bore

of a new

thin-

wall

liner

it is

advisable

to

allow a period

of

time

to

elapse

for

the I

iner

to

settle.

To Renew Cylinder

liners

1.

Remove all the

various

components

from the cylin-

der

block.

(Refer

to

the

appropriate

sections

for

details

of

their

removal).

2.

Using a

shouldered

metal

disc

slightly

smaller

on

the

outside

diameter

than the

parent

bore

dia-

meter

and a

suitable

press, press

the

liners care-

fully

out

through

the

top

of

the

cylinder

block.

NOTE:

Support

the

block

locally

in

the

area

of

the

top

of

the liner.

3.

Lightly

lubricate

the

outside

of

the

liner

with

clean

engine

oil ready

for

fitting,

4.

As the

liner

must

protrude

above

the

cylinder

block

top

face

and

not

be pressed fully

home

when fitted

correctly, a solid

stop

washer

should

be

available

designed

to

give

the

correct

liner

protrusion.

NOTE: The

limits

for

liner

protrusion

are given on

page

B.3 and may be

checked

as shown in Fig.

G.2.

5.

Press

the

liner

into

the

bore

progressively

until it

reaches the

solid

stop

washer.

6.

Bore

and finish hone

the

liners

to

the

dimension

quoted

on Page B.3.

NOTE: Where

boring

equipment

is

mounted

on

tile

top

face

of

the

cylinder

block

fit a parallel

plate

between

the

boring

bar

and

cylinder

block

face.

Such a plate

should

be

thicker

than 0.027 in

(0,686

mm).

7.

Re-assemble the

engine

components

to

the

cylinder

block.

(Refer

to

the

appropriate

sections

for

assembly

of

these).

CYLINDER LINERS

07

and

4.99)

Cylinder

liners

fitted

to 4.107

and

4.99

engines

are

of

the

centrifugal

cast

iron

wet

type. They have

flanges

at

the

top

and are sealed

at

the

bottom

by means

of

two

rubber

sealing

rings

which

fit

in

machined

re-

G1

Earlier

4.99

engines

had

only

one

seating

ring at

the

bottom

of

the

liner

(see

Fig.

G.3).

4.107 and 4.99

cylinder

liners

have

pre-finished

bores.

Under

normal

circumstances,

the

liner

would

only

need

to

be

renewed

during

major

overhaul,

but

should

it be

necessary

to

remove

the

liner

for

any

other

reason,

this

can

be

carried

out

without

removal

of

the

crankshaft.

If

at

any

time,

the

cylinder

liners

are

removed

and

these

same

liners

are

to

be refitted,

then

before

they

are

removed

from

the

cylinder

block,

they

should

be

cesses

in the

cylinder

block.

G2

CYLINDER BLOCK AND

LlNERS-G.2

G3

suitably

marked

so

that

they may be refitted

to

their

original

parent

bore

and in the same

position

in that

bore, that is,

thrust

side of the

liner

to the

thrust

side

of

the

cylinder

block.

To Renew Cylinder

liners

Remove all

components

from

cylinder

block.

Remove

liners

using a suitable

liner

removing tool (see

Fig.

G.4).

Once the

liner

has cleared the

rubber

sealing rings in

the

cylinder

block,

the

liner

can be removed by hand.

Remove any

corrosion

and burrs

which

may be present

at the

inner

ends

of

the landings.

Renew the

rubber

sealing rings in the

grooves

at

the
bottom lands.
To ease

fitting

of

the liners when the rings have been

placed in position, smear the

liners

with

soft

soap

or

soapy water.

Place

liner

in

position

and

press home by hand, ensur-

ing that the

rubber

sealing

rings

remain in

their

grooves

(see

Fig.

G.5).

The liners are a push fit and

no

force

is required.

After fitting the liners, the

cylinder

block

should

be

water

tested at a pressure

of

20

Ibflin

2

(1,4

kgflcm2).

Re-assemble

engine

as

required

and

to

instructions

given

for

the

various

components.

Note:

If

engine

is overheated, it

could

have an adverse

affect on the

liner

sealing rings.

All 4.107 and

later

4.99

engines

have

four

small holes

drilled

along the fuel pump

side

of

the

cylinder

block,

each one

breaking

through

into

the area between

the
two

sealing

rings

at the

bottom

of

each

cylinder

liner.

These holes

permit

any

coolant

which

may have leaked

past the

upper

sealing ring to escape

thus

relieving

the

botiom

sealing

ring

of

any pressure above it

and

preventing

coolant

from

entering

the

engine

sump.

In

the case

of a new

engine,

or

where

cylinder

liners

and/or

sealing rings have been fitted,

it

is

possible

that a

slight

leakage

of

coolant

could

occur

from

these

holes. This

should

ease as

the

liners

and

sealing

rings

G4

where

difficulty

is

experienced,

then

the

use

of

BARSEAL

in the

cooling

system

(in

accordance

with

the

manu-

facturers

instructions)

is

approved.

Oversize Cylinder

liners

Oversize outside

diameter

cylinder

liners

are

available

for

service use on 4.108 engines,

if

the

standard

parent

bore

has been

made

larger

to

remove damage.

Oversize

Description

0.010 in (0,25

mm)

Cast Iron Flangeless

Bore & hone

Where a

parent

bore

is

made

larger

in service,

it

should

be

machined

to the

dimension

by

adding

0.010

in (0,25

mm)

to the standard

parent

bore

diameter

given on Page B.3. A chamfer

must

be

machined

at

the

top

of

the

new

parent

bore.

When oversize

liners

are fitted at

the

factory,

the

liner

oversize is

stamped

on the

top

face

of

the

cylinder

block

between

the

liner

and

the

edge

of

the

cylinder

block.

settle

down

after

the

initial

period

of

running,

but

G5

SECTION H

Crankshaft and Main Bearings

H1

Description

The

crankshaft

runs

in

three

pre-finished

replaceable

thinwall,

steel

backed,

aluminium

tin

lined

bearings.

Crankshaft

end

lIoat

is

controlled

by

thrust

washers

located

either

side

of

the

rear

main

bearing.

0.0075 in

H2

(0.19

mm

oversize)

thrust

washers

are

available

which

if

used

on

one

side

of

the

rear

main

bearing

only

will

reduce

crankshaft

end

float

by 0.0075 in

(0.19

mm)

and

by 0.D15 in (0.38

mm)

if

used on

both

sides

The

limits

for

the

crankshaft

end

float

are

given

on
Page 8.6.
The

main

bearing

caps

are

numbered

and

are

not

interchangeable.

The

main

bearing

shells

are

located

by

means

of

tabs

which

locate

in

slots

in

the

bearing

housings.

NOTE:

Before

renewal

of

the

main

bearings

is

attempted

make

absolutely

certain

that

the

correct

replacements

are

available,

reference

to the

relevant

parts

list

will

ensure

this,

but

for

identification

purposes

the

new

bearings

should

have

an

annular

groove

machined

in the

inner

(bearing)

face

along

the

centre

line

of

the

feed

holes,

when

the

bearings

are

correctly

located

these

feed

holes

will

correspond

exactly

with

those

machined

in the

cylinder

block.

On

later

4.107

and

4.99

engines,

the

annular

oil

groove

in the

main

bearing

parent

bore

(cylinder

block

and

bearing

cap)

has

been

deleted.

Adequate

lubrication

is

maintained

by

repositioning

the

oil

feed

holes

radially

in the

shell

bearings

and

continuing

to

machine

the

annular

groove

in the

bearing

on

the

centre

fine

of

these

feed

holes.

These

later

type

shell

bearings

may

be

used

on

both

early

and

later

type

engines,

whereas

the

early

type

of

shell

bearings

must

NOT

on

any

account,

be

fitted

to

later

engines

where

the

annular

groove

in the

main

bearing

parent

bore

has

been

deleted.

CRANKSHAFT AND MAIN

BEARINGS-H.2

H3

To Renew Main Bearings and Thrust Washers

Removal

of

the

main

bearings

and

thrust

washers

can

be

carried

out

without

removing

the

crankshaft

by

the

following

procedure:-

1.

Remove

the

engine

from

its

application.

2.

Remove

the

sump

and

suction

pipe

assembly.

3.

Slacken

the

setscrews

which

secure

the

main

bearing

caps.

4.

Remove

completely

one

of

the

main

bearing

caps

and

remove

the

bearing

shell

from

the

cap.

5.

Remove

the

top

half

of

the

bearing

shell

by push-

ing it, on the

opposite

side

to

the

one

having

the

locating

tag,

with a suitable

strip

of

wood

and

rotating

it

on

the

crankshaft

as

shown

in Fig. H.1.

6.

Inspect

the

bearing

shells

and

if

replacements

are

necessary

continue

by

lightly

lubricating

and

in-

serting

the

new

top

half

bearing

shell,

plain

end

first,

into

the

side

having

the

tag

location.

H5

H4

7.

Rotate

the

bearing

shell

on

the

crankshaft

until

it

locates

correctly

with

the

tag

in

the

machined

slot.

8.

Locate

the

lower

half

bearing

shell

in

the

main

bearing

cap,

liberally

lubricate

and

refit.

9.

Tighten

the

two

securing

setscrews

to

positively

locate

the

bearing

shells

then

slacken a turn

or

two.

10.

Repeat

items

3-8

for

the

remaining

two

bearings.

NOTE:

To

enable

the

rear

main

bearing

cap

to

be

removed,

first

remove

the

two

oil

seal

housing

setscrews

as

shown

in Fig. H.3.

11.

Finally

tighten

the

main

bearings

to

the

torque

given

on

Page

B.2.

Renewal

of

the

thrust

washers

is

accomplished

by

carrying

out

the

following

procedure:-

1.

Remove

the

two

setscrews

securing

the

two

rear

main

bearing

oil seal

half

housing

as

shown

in

Fig. H.3

and

remove

the

half

housing

from

the

bearing

cap.

2.

Remove

the

rear

main

bearing

cap

securing

set-

screws.

3.

Remove

the

rear

main

bearing

cap

and

from

it

the

two

lower

half

thrust

washers.

(Refer

Fig.

H.4).

4.

The

single

upper

half

thrust

washer

is

removed

by

rotating

it

with a thin

piece

of

wood

until

it

can

be

I

ifted

out

of

its

recess.

NOTE:

The

new

thrust

washers

should

be

lightly

lubricated

before

fitting.

The

steel

faces

of

the

lower

thrust

washers

should

face

inwards

towards

the

bearing

cap,

(Refer

Fig.

H.5),

the

steel

face

of

the

upper

thrust

washer

should

also

face

in-

wards.

5.

Locate

the

upper

thrust

washer

half

as

shown

in

Fig.

H.6,

place

the

lower

halves

either

side

of

the

rear

main

bearing

cap

as

described

and

refit

the

cap.

6.

Tighten

the

setscrews

evenly

and

finally

to

the

torque

given

on

Page

B.2.

7.

Check

that

the

crankshaft

end

T;oat is

within

the

limits

given

on

Page

B.6

by

means

of

feeler

gauges

as

shown

in Fig. H.7. If

incorrect,

oversize

thrust

washers

are

available

to

give

an

overall

reduction

of

0.015 in

(0,38

mm)

(Refer

to

Page

H.1

).

8.

Refit

the

rear

main

oil

seal

half

housing.

NOTE:

If

any

leakage

of

oil

is

apparent

from

this

seal

then

new

seals

should

be

fitted

to

the

half

housing

as

described

under

the

heading

"Crank-

shaft

Rear

End

Oil

Seal"

or

fit a

new

assembly

9.

Refit

the

suction

pipe

assembly

and

sump.

To Remove the Crankshaft

To

remove

the

crankshaft

it

will

be

necessary

to

re-

move

the

engine

from

the

vehicle

or

application.

1.

Remove

the

starter

motor,

flywheel

and

flywheel

housing.

(Refer

to

Page

P.1

for

details

of

flywheel

and

flywheel

housing

removal)

2.

Remove

the

crankshaft

front

pulley.

timing

case

cover,

timing

gears

and

fuel

pump

drive

hub.

(Refer

to

Page

J.1

for

details

of

their

removal)

3.

Remove

the

timing

case

back

plate.

4.

Remove

the

sump

and

lubricating

oil

pump

com-

plete

with

suction

and

delivery

pipes.

(Refer

to

Page

L.1

for

removal

of

these).

5.

Remove

all

the

connecting

rod

setscrews.

con-

necting

rod

caps

and

bearing

shells.

(Refer

to

Page

F.1).

NOTE:

All

the

bearing

shells

should

be

marked

to

indicate

"top"

or

"bottom"

and

number

of

the

rod

assembly.

6.

Unscrew

the

main

bearing

cap

setscrews.

NOTE:

The

rear

seal

half

housing

securing

set-

screws

will

require

removal

to

enable

the

rear

main

bearing

cap

to

be

removed.

(Refer

to

Fig.

H.3)

7.

Lift

out

the

crankshaft

and

place

where

it is

not

likely

to

be

damaged

ready

for

inspection.

8.

Remove

the

top

half

main

bearing

shells.

9.

Finally,

remove

the

top

half

oil

seal

housing.

H6

CRANKSHAFT AND

MAIN

BEARINGS-H.3

H7

Crankshaft Regrinding

The

crankshafts

fitted

to

most

4.108

and

some

4.107

engines

are

Tufftrided

and

these

crankshafts

must

be

re-hardened

after

regrinding.

If

facilities

are

not

avail-

able

for

Tufftriding,

the

crankshaft

can

be

re-hardened

by

the

20

hour

nitriding

process

but

if

this

cannot

be

carried

out,

then a replacement

crankshaft

should

be
fitted.

The

Tufftrided

crankshafts

can

be

recognised

by

the

part

number

that

is

stamped

on

the

crankshaft

nose

or

No. 1

web.

The

part

numbers

of

the

Tufftrrded

crankshafts

are

31315741, 31315827,

31315828,

31315829, 31315831.

31315836, 31315838.

31316111

31316112.

31316113.

31316114. 31316122.

31316128and

31316121.

The

crankshafts

fitted

to

4.99

and

most

4.107

and

some

4.108

engines

are

induction

hardened

and

do

not

require

re-hardening

after

regrinding.

The

crankpin

and

main

journal

diameters

can

be

re-

ground

to

0.010

in

(0.25

mm),

0.020

in

(0,51

mm)

or

0.030

in

(0,76

mm)

undersize.

For

crankshaft

regrind

data,

see

Page

H.5.

When

regrinding,

only

very

light

cuts

should

be

used

and

adequate

cooling

must

be

maintained,

especially

around

the

fillet

radii.

The

crankshaft

should

be

crack

detected

and

de-magnetised

before

and

after

regrinding

and

the

fillet

radii

and

the

surface

finish

must

be

main-

tained

to

within

the

limits

given

on

Page

B.6.

After

regrinding

and

before

polishing

and

where

necessary,

rehardening,

the

oil

holes

should

be

chamfered

0.0201

0.060

in

(0,51/1,52

mm)

at

45

to

blend

smoothly

into

the

crankpin

and

main

Journal

diameters.

To Refit the Crankshaft

1.

First

ensure

that

crankshaft

oilways

are

clear.

2.

Place

the

three

top

bearing

shells

in

position

then

oil

liberally

with

clean

engine

oil.

NOTE:

Unless a new

set

of

main

bearings

is

being

fitted,

those

removed

must

be

returned

to

their

original

locations.

CRANKSHAFT AND MAIN

BEARINGS-H.4

3.

Place the

crankshaft

in

position.

4.

Locate

the

upper

thrust

washer in

position

as

shown in Fig. H.6.

5.

Fit the three

lower

bearing shells, oil, and fit the

three main

bearing

caps in

their

respective loca-

tions.

NOTE: Ensure at this stage that the

two

lower

thrust

washer halves are positioned

correctly

either

side

of the rear f\lain bearing cap when it is fitted.

6.

Check

the main bearing setscrews

prior

to fitting

for

signs

of

stretch

or

thread damage. Where

damage

or

any

doubt

exists fit new replacements.

7.

Fit the setscrews then

tighten

evenly

to

the torque

tension

given on Page B.2.

8.

Check

that the

crankshaft

can be rotated freely, if

satisfactory

check

the

crankshaft

end float by

means of feeler gauges as shown in Fig. H.7.

Should it

not

be

within

the limits quoted on Page
B.6, then oversize thrust washers are available to
give the necessary adjustment.

(Refer

to Page H8

H.1J.

9.

Fit

new

sealing

strips

to

the rear main bearing oil

seal housings and refit the housings as

described

under

the heading

"Crankshaft

Rear End Oil

Seal"

below.

10.

Liberally

oil the crankpins, locate

the

connecting

rod bearing shells, again ensuring

their

correct

relative positions,

then

fit

the

connecting

rod caps

as

described

on Page F.5. The

crankcase

should

now

be as shown in Fig. H.2.

11. Refit the

lubricating

oil pump

complete

with suc-

tion

and delivery pipes.

(Refer

to Page

L.4).

12. Refit the sump using

new

seals and joints. (Refer

to

Page

L.1).

13. Refit the

timing

case back plate, fuel pump drive

hub, timing gears, timing

cover

and

crankshaft

front

pulley.

(Refer

to

later

text

commencing

on

Page

J.1

for

their reassembly.

14. Refit and

correctly

align the flywheel housing

as

described

on Page P.2.

15. Refit the flywheel and

starter

motor.

CRANKSHAfT REAR END

OIL

SEAL

This

sealing

arrangement

consists

of

two

half

housings

bolted

around the rear

of

the

crankshaft.

The bore

of

these housings is

machined

to

accommodate a rubber

cored

asbestos

strip

which, in

conjunction

with a right

hand helix machined between the

thrust

collar

and the

flywheel

mounting

flange to the

dimensions

given on

Page B.6,

acts

to return the

surplus

oil

reaching

the

seal. The

two

half housings fit over

this

helix and the

contact

of

the sealing

strips

with

the

crankshaft

pre-

vents leakage beyond

this

point.

NOTE: When traces

of

oil

become

apparent

from

behind

the flywheel and a faulty

rear

oil

seal is sus-

pected,

first

ensure that the

crankcase

is

breathing

normally. Any build up in

crankcase

pressure

could

cause oil to be

forced

past the rear

sealing

arrange-

ment. If

crankcase

pressure is

normal

and

new

seals

require

to

be fitted the

following

procedure

should

be

adopted

with

the

crankshaft

in

position.

1.

Set

up a half

housing

in the

vice

with

the seal

recess uppermost.

2.

Settle

approximately

1 in (25

mm)

of

the

strip, at

each

end,

into

the

ends

of

the

groove

ensuring

that

each

end

of

the.

strip

projects

0.01010.020

in

(0,25/0,50

mm)

beyond

the

half

housing

joint

face.

3.

With

the

thumb

or

finger

press the

remainder

of

the

strip

into the groove,

working

from

the

centre,

then use any

convenient

round

bar

to

further

bed

in the

strip

by

rolling

and

pressing its

inner

dia-

meter

as

shown

in Fig. H.8.

This

procedure

takes

advantage

of

the

friction

between the

strip

and the

groove

at the

ends

to

compact

the rope, whilst

ensuring

that the

projections

of

the

end

faces of

the

rope

remain as set.

4.

Fit

the

sealing

strip

to

the

other

half

housing in a

similar

manner.

5.

Remove all

traces

of

the old

joint

from the

cylinder

block

rear face

and

fit a

new

joint

treated with a

suitable

jointing

compound.

6.

Lightly

coat

the faces

of

the

housing

with

a suit-

able

jointing

compound.

7.

Spread

a film

of

graphite

grease

over

the exposed

inside

diameter

surface

of

the strip.

8.

Assemble

the

half

housings

around

the

crankshaft

rear

journal

and

fasten

together

by the

two

set-

screws

(See

Fig.

H.3).

9. Swivel

the

complete

seal housing

on

the

shaft

to

bed in the strips,

and

to

establish

that

the assembly

turns

on

the

crankshaft.

10.

Bolt

the seal

housing

in

position

on the

block

and

the

rear

main

bearing

cap

then

finally

tighten

the

securing

setscrews.

CRANKSHAFT AND MAIN

BEARINGS-H.5

Crankshaft Regrinding Data

0.010 in (0,25

mm)

Undersize

Ai 2.238/2.2385 in

(56,85/56,86

mm)

A2 2.2375/2.238 in

(56,83/56,85

mm)

B 1.9893/1.9901 in

(50,53/50,55

mm)

C 1.509 in (38,33

mm)

maximum

D 1.1945 in (30,34

mm)

maximum

E 1.516 in (38,51

mm)

maximum

R1

0.12510.141 in (3,1713,58

mm)

all

journals

R2

0.156/0.172 in (3,96/4,37

mm)

all crankpins

c

0.20 in (0,51

mm)

Undersize

2.228/2.2285 in

(56.59/56,60

mm)

2.2275/2.228 in

(56,58/56,59

mm)

1.9793/1.9801 in

(50,27/50,29

mm)

0.030 in (0,76

mm)

Undersize

2.21812.2185 in

(56,34/56,35

mm)

2.2175/2.218 in

(56,32/56,34

mm)

1.9693/1.9701

in

(50,02/50,04

mm)

Surface

finish

of

crankpins

and

journals

16

micro

inches

(0,4

microns)

C.L.A.

Maximum.

Surface

finish

of

fillet

radii

50

micro

inches

(1

,3

microns)

Magnetic

crack

detection D.C. Flow 2 amps

Limits of

taper

and out of round

for

pins and

journals:

Taper 0.00035 in

(0,009

mm)

A.C.

Current

- 1000 amps

Out of Round 0.0004 in

(0,010

mm)

Maximum Run-out with crankshaft mounted on the end main

journals

Independent

readings:
Crankshaft Pulley
Diameter T.I.R.

0.002 in (0,05

mm)

Journals

T.I.R.

Number

1.

Mounting

4.108

Series Workshop Manual, June

1986

Rear Oil Seal
Diameter T.I.R.

0.002 in (0,05

mm)

Number

2.

0.003 in (0,08

mm)

Flywheel Flange
Diameter T.I.R.

0.002 in (0,05

mm)

Number

3.

Mounting

E

SECTION J

Timing Case and Drive

J1

Note:

There are a few engines fitted with spur gears
instead of helical gears shown in this section. These
spur gears have a different number of teeth, but fitting
and timing is the same

as

given.

To carry out the following procedure it is assumed that
either working space exists with the engine 'in situ' or
it is removed from the vehicle or application.

To Remove the Timing Case Covel'

1.

Slacken the generator mounting bolts, release the
adjusting arm setscrew and remove the generator
drive belt.

2.

Remove the crankshaft pulley retaining setscrew
or

dognut and withdraw the pulley which

is

a

keyed

or

splined fit

on

the crankshaft.

3.

Remove the securing setscrews and nuts from the
timing case and carefully remove the cover, taking
care not to catch the rubber lip of the oil seal on

the crankshaft pulley locating key or splines.

To Renew the Crankshaft

front

Oil Seal

Oil seals

which

have

a series

of

windback

grooves

on

I

the

face

of

the

main

and a

shaft

direction

arrow

on

the

front

face

of

the

seal

have

the

oil

thrower

I

removed

and a

spacer

fitted

in

its

place.

Crankshaft

I pulleys

which

have a wear

ring use a seal

with

a

I larger

internal

diameter.

I 1. Using a

suitable

dolly

and press,

push

the

oil seal

out

through

the

front

of

the

timing

case

cover.

If a centralising

tool

is

to

be used

to

align a

timing

gear

cover

of

pressed steel,

then

the

seal

should

not

be

fitted

until

the

timing

gear

cover

has been

I

fitted.

I 2.

Locate

the

new

seal in

position

so

that

the

garter

spring

faces

inwards.

Where

the

timing

gear

case is

of

pressed steel, push

the

seal

into

the

seal

housing

until

it

butts

against

the

seal

retaining lip,

giving

local

support

to

the

cover

as

case is

of

aluminium

and

the

seal

housing

is

19,0

mm

(0.75

in) deep

there

is a

production

and a

service

position

for

the

seal.

The

production

position

is

6,3

mm

(0.248

in) and

the

service

position

is

9,3

mm

(0.366

in)

from

the

flat

front

face

of

the

seal

to

the

front

of

the

seal

housing.

The

production

position

may

be

used

again

if

there

is

no

wear

on

the

pulley.

If

the

seal has a

protruding

dust

lip

ensure

that

the

fitting

tool

has

a

suitable

recess

for

the

lip.

To Refit the

Timing

Case Cover

1. Using a new joint, lightly coated with a suitable

jointing compound, place the front

cover

in posi-
tion taking care not to damage the rubber lip of
the oil seal on the crankshaft pulley key.

2. Fit

the

timing

case

cover

to

the

timing

case

back

plate

by

the

use

of

two

opposite

setscrews

loosely

tightened.

Ensure

that

the

cover

is

correctly

aligned

by

the

use

of

centralising

tool

PD.160

on

the

crankshaft

and in

the

seal

housing

and

lightly

tighten

the

assembly

by

the

crankshaft

pulley

setscrew

and

washer.

Tighten

all

the

timing

case

cover

setscrews

and

nuts

and

remove

the

tool.

If a centralising

tool

is

not

available,

the

crankshaft

pulley

can

be used

to

align

the

cover.

Note:

Where a centralising tool is used with a
pressed steel cover, the crankshaft front oil seal
has to be fitted after the cover is fitted.

3.

Fit the crankshaft pulley retaining setscrew

or

dog-

nut and

lighten

to the torque given on Page B.2.

4. Refit the fan belt and tension as described on

Page M.1.

To Remove the

Idler

Gear and Hub

1.

Remove the timing case front cover

as

previously

described in this section.

the

seal is pressed

home.

Where

the

timing

gear

J2

TIMING

CASE AND

DRIVE-J.2

2.

Tap

back

the

locking

tabs and

unscrew

the

two

idler

hub

securing

setscrews.

3.

The

setscrews,

idler

gear

and

hub

may

now

be

removed

together

as shown in Fig. J.1.

4. Clean

and

thoroughly

examine

the

gear

and

hub

for

signs

of

excessive

wear,

cracks,

pitting,

etc.

To Refit the Idler Gear and

Hub

1.

After

ensuring

that

the

oilways

in the

hub

and

gear

are

clear,

hold

the

gear

in

position

with

the

timing

marks

correctly

aligned.

NOTE: If

the

cylinder

head

assembly

has

not

been,

disturbed,

then

the

cylinder

head

cover

and

rocker

shaft

should

be

removed

in

order

to

allow

the

camshaft

to

be

turned

to

facilitate

the

aligning

of

the

timing

marks.

2.

Insert

the

hub

as

shown

in Fig.

J.2

so

that

the

holes

in the

hub

and

the

cylinder

block

are

in

alignment

and

secure

with

the

two

setscrews.

NOTE:

Clearance

is

provided

in

the

setscrew

holes

of

the

idler

gear

hub,

to

provide

the

necessary

backlash

adjustment

for

the

timing

gears.

Backlash

should

be set

at

the

tightest

point.

3. Using the

adjustable

idler

gear,

backlash

between

both

crankshaft

gear/idler

gear

and

camshaft

gear/idler

gear

should

be set

within

the

range

given on Page B.9

with

the

gears

held

together

in

order

to

take

up the

effect

of

bearing

clear·

ance.

Blacklash

may

be

checked

by the use

of

feeler

gauges

as

shown

in Fig. J.3.

4. When the

backlash

has been

correctly

set.

finally

tighten

the

idler

gear

hub

securing

setscrews

to

the

torque

given

on

Page B.2.

5.

Check

the

gear

end

float

as

shown

Fig.

the

limits

are

given

on Page B.9.

gear

the

tabwashers.

NOTE:

The

gears

appear

as

shown

Fig.

7. the

timing

case

front

cover.

viously

detailed

in

this

section.

up

to

a

hydraulic

Remove

Remove the

timing

case

front

cover.

as

pre·

2.

Remove the

three

securing

setscrews

and

ease

gear

away

from

its

location.

3.

Examine

the

gear

for

signs

excessive

cracks,

pitting,

etc.

J3

To Refit

the

Camshaft

Gear

1. Remove the

idler

gear

and

hub,

cylinder

head

cover

and

rocker

shaft

(if

not

previously

removed).

2.

Refit

the

gear

to

the

camshaft

ensuring

that

the

'D'

marks

on

the

gear

and

camshaft

hub

respec-

tively

align

as

shown

!n Fig. J.6.

3. Refit the

three

securing

setscrews

and

tighten

to

a

torque

of

19-21

Ibf

ft

(2,6-2,9

kg!

m).

J4

NOTE:

Only

the

plain

(non-slotted)

holes

in

the

camshaft

gear

are

to

be

used

and

these

will

align

with

the

tapped

holes

on

the

camshaft

hub

when

the

'D'

marks

are

alignment.

Refit

the

idler

and

gear,

case

etc.,

as

detailed

section.

J5

J6

To Remove the Fuel

Pump

Gear

1. Remove the

timing

case

front

cover.

2.

Remove the

idler

gear

and hub.

3.

Remove the three

securing

setscrews

and

ease

the

gear

from its

location

on the fuel pump

driving

hub.

4.

Examine the

gear

for

signs

of

excessive

wear,

cracks, piting, etc.

To Refit the Fuel Pump

Gear

1.

Refit the fuel pump

gear

so

that the

timing

marks

on the

gear

and hub

respectively

are in

alignment

as shown in Fig. J.7.

TIMING CASE AND

DRIVE-J.3

2.

Refit the

three

securing

setscrews,

and

tighten

to

a

torque

of

19-21

Ibf

ft

(2,6-2,9

kgf

m).

3.

Refit the

idler

gear

and hub,

timing

case

front

cover, etc.

To Fit New Fuel Pump Gear

In the event

of a new

fuel

pump

gear

being

required,

this

will

be

supplied

without

timing

marks

and

to

ensure

correct

fitment

of

the

gear

and

timing

of

the

fuel

injection

pump, the

following

procedure

should

be

adopted:-

Using Special Tool MS67B (see Fig. N.12)

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

Turn

crankshaft

until

Nos. 1 and 4

pistons

are

at

T.D.C., No. 1 piston

being

on

compression

stroke.

Remove fuel

pump

gear.

Ensure that

the

timing

marks

on

crankshaft

gear,

idler

gear

and

camshaft

coincide.
Remove fuel pump.
Set

special

tool MS67B

to

the

correct

checking

angle (see Page

B.12).

Fit

special

tool in place

of

fuel

pump

and

line

up

the slotted pOinter

with

the

timing

mark

on

the

fuel

pump

mounting

flange.

Fit the

new

fuel

pump

gear,

holding

gear

against

the

direction

of

rotation to

take

up

backlash.

Tighten

the retaining setscrews.

Mark

the

new

fuel

pump

gear

with a

scribed

line

to

coincide

with

the

scribed

line

on the fuel

pump

driving hub.

Also

stamp

two

dots

on the

new

gear

to

coincide

with

the

single

dot

on the

idler

gear

(see Fig.

K.1).

9.

Check

backlash

of

timing

gears

and

adjust

within

the

limits

as

detailed

on Page J.2.

Where

the

special

tool is not available, the

following

method

should

be adopted.

1. Turn

crankshaft

until

Nos. 1 and 4

pistons

are

at

T.O.C., Nos. 1

piston

being

on

compression

stroke.

2. Remove fuel

pump

gear

and

idler

gear.

3.

Replace

idler

gear

ensuring

that

timing

marks

on

crankshaft

gear,

idler

gear

and

camshaft

gear

coincide.

4.

Turn

crankshaft

in

opposite

direction

to

normal

direction

for

about a quarter

of

a revolution. Then

turn

in

normal

direction

until

No.1

piston

is at its

static

timing

point

(see Page

N.7).

5. Remove fuel

pump

inspection

plate

(mechanically

governed

pumps)

or

plate

embodying

fuel return

connection

(hydraulically

governed

pumps)

enabling

the

fuel

pump

rotor

to

be seen.

6.

Then

turn

fuel

pump

driving

hub

until

scribed

line

on

the

rotor

marked

"A"

or

"C"

(for

hydraulically

governed

and

mechanically

governed

pumps

res-

pectively)

coincides

with

the square

end

of

the

fuel

pump

timing

circlip.

7.

Ensuring

timing

gears

and fuel

pump

shaft

do

not

move,

fit

fuel

injection

pump

gear

and

secure

with

three

setscrews.

8. Turn

crankshaft

back

slightly

and

then

forward

again

to

No. 1

piston

on

static

timing

point

to

check

that

fuel

pump

timing

is

correct.

TIMING CASE AND

DRIVE-J.4

J7

9.

Bring

crankshaft

up

to

T.O.C.

fer

Nos. 1 and 4

pistons, No. 1

piston

being

on

its

compression

stroke

and

mark

new

fuel

pump

gear

with

a

scribed

line

to

coincide

with

the

scribed

line

on

the

fuel

pump

driving

hub:

also

stamp

two

dots

on

the

new

gear

to

coincide

with

the

single

dot

on

the

idler

gear.

10. When

replacing

a fuel pump,

it

will

be neces-

sary

to

adjust

the

timing

gem

blacklash

to

within

the

limits

prescribed

on Page J.2.

To Remove the Fuel Pump Drive Hub

1. Remove the

timing

case

front

cover

and fuel

pump

gear.

2.

Remove

the

low

and

high

pressure

fuel

pipes

from

the

fuel

(injection)

pump.

3.

Remove

the

fuel

pump

securing

setscrews

and

withdraw

the pump.

4. Remove the

drive

hub

locating

circlip

and with-

draw

the

drive

hub

from its

bearing

(Refer

Fig.

J.8)

.

J8

J9

5.

Examine

the

drive

hub

also

the

bearing

in

which

it

runs

for

signs

of

excessive

wear,

surface

cracks

pitting

etc.

'

NOTE: The

bearing

is an

interference

fit

in

the

cylinder

block

and

replacement

is

carried

out

by

means

of a suitable

dolly

and

puller

or

press

if

the

block

is

completely

stripped.

the

new

one

being

fitted

in the reverse

manner.

The

earlier

bronze

service

bearing

had

a 0.010 in

(0,25

mm)

allowance

for

machining

in

situ. The

current

steel

bearing

is

fitted

with 2 pre-finished

wrapped

bushes.

To

Refit the Fuel Pump Drive Hub

1.

Replace

the

drive

hub

in

the

bearing

and

locate

with

the

circlip

as

shown

in Fig. J.9.

2.

Check

the

drive

hub

end

float

by

means

of

feeler

gauges

placed

between

the

front

face

of

the

bearing

and the

rear

face

of

the

drive

hub. The end

float

limits

are

given

on

Page B.9.

3.

Refit

the

fuel

pump

as

detailed

on Page N.6.

4.

Refit

the

low

and

high

pressure

fuel

pipes

to

the

fuel pump.

5.

Refit

the

fuel

pump

drive

gear,

idler

gear

and hub,

timing

case

front

cover

etc.

To Remove the

Timing

Case

Back

Plate

1.

Remove

the

timing

case

front

cover

and

timing

gears.

2.

Remove

the

fuel

pump

and

drive

hub.

3.

Remove

the

securing

setscrews

and

studs

(where

fitted)

.

4.

Lift

the

timing

case

back

plate

clear

from

the cam-

shaft

and

crankshaft

gear.

NOTE: The

crankshaft

gear

is an

interferance

fit

on

the

crankshaft.

Should

its

removal

become

necessary,

then

this

can

be

accomplished

by the

use

of a suitable

puller.

To Refit the Timing Case

Back

Plate

1. Fit

the

timing

case

back

plate

to

the

cylinder

block

using a new

joint

and

suitable

jointing

compound.

2.

Refit

any

studs

removed

and

secure

with

the set-

screws.

3.

Refit

the

fuel

pump

drive

hub

and fuel pump.

4.

Refit

the

timing

gears,

timing

case

front

cover

etc.

To Remove the Camshaft and Tappets

To

remove

the

camshaft

it may be necessary

to

remove

the

engine

from

the

vehicle

or

application

and place in

a suitable

dismantling

stand where it can be

turned

upside

down.

The purpose

of

this

is to prevent the

tappets

from

falling

out

of

their

locations when the

camshaft

is removed. If however, it is

not

possible

to

turn the

engine

over

in this manner, then this

problem

may be

overcome

by attaching suitable

clips

(when

the

tappet

inspection

cover

has been removed) to each

tappet

to

hold

them

in

their

locations

when the cam-

shaft is

withdrawn

from

the

block.

1. Remove

the

engine

from the

vehicle

or

application

and

mount

in a suitable

dismantling

stand

(where

available)

correct

way up.

2.

Remove

the

cylinder

head cover,

rocker

shaft and

push rods.

3.

Remove

the

timing

case

front

cover

and

timing

gears.

4.

Remove

the

fuel

lift

pump,

tappet

inspection

cover

and fuel

pump

operating

push rod.

5.

Turn the

engine

over so that the sump is

now

uppermost:
NOTE:

At

this

stage if it is

not

possble

to

turn

the

engine

over

then

the tappets should be lifted

to

the

top

of

their

locations

and secure with

suitable

clips.

6.

Remove the

sump

and

lubricating

oil pump assem-

bly.

(Refer

to

Page

L.1

for

details

of

their

re-

moval).

7.

Remove the

timing

cover

back

plate as

previously

TIMING CASE AND

DRIVE-J.S

plates

as

illustrated in Fig. J.14.

8.

Ease the

camshaft

out

from

the

back

and

catch

the

two

thrust

plates

as they

come

out

of

their

recess in the

cylinder

block.

9.

Withdraw

the

camshaft

as shown in Fig. J.10

taking

care

to

ensure

that

the

cams

and

journals

are

not

damaged

during

this operation.

10. The tappets may

now

be removed by

lifting

them

out

of

their

locations

(Refer

to

Fig.

J.12)

or

by

removal

of

the

retaining

clips

if

the

engine

is

still

the

normal

way up.

11. Examine

camshaft

and

tappets

for

signs

of

exces-

sive wear,

surface

cracks,

pitting

etc.

detailed

this

will

show the

camshaft

and

thrust

J10

2

1.

Drive Hub

2.

Lubricating

Oil Pump Drive Gear

3.

Groove

for

reduced oil pressure feed to

Rocker Shaft

4.

Bearing

Journals

4.

J11

TIMING CASE AND

DRIVE-J.G

To Refit the Tappets and Camshaft

1.

If the tappets have been removed

liberally

lubri-

cate

them with clean engine oil and return to

their

resective locations. Secure with

clips

(if

applicable)

.

2.

Carefully refit the

camshaft

into the

cylinder

block

exercising

the same care

as

used

during

its re-

moval.

3.

Before the

camshaft

is pushed

fully

home

locate

the

two

thrust

plates (Refer

to

Fig. J.13) (one of

which

locates

on

the

dowel

in the recess) in posi-

tion,

either

side

of

the

camshaft

hub, when

correct-

ly

located

the

camshaft

can

be pushed fully home

and will appear as in Fig. J.14.

4.

Refit the

timing

case

back

plate as previously des-

cribed.

5.

Refit the

lubricating

oil pump assembly and sump

as

described

on Pages

L.1

and

LA.

6.

Turn the engine over so the

cylinder

block

top

face

or

cylinder

head

(if

fitted) is uppermost.

7.

Refit the

timing

gears,

timing

case

front

cover

etc.,

as

previously

detailed.

8.

Refit the fuel

lift

pump

operating

push rod (Refer J13

to Fig.

J.15),

tappet

inspection

cover,

(after

re-

moving any retaining

clips)

and fuel

lift

pump.

Refer

to

Fig. N.9.

9.

Re-assemble the

remainder

of

the

engine

com-

ponents

in

accordance

with

the

instructions

given

for

each

in the relevant part

of

this section.

10. With

later

engines having a

splined

crankshaft

nose with

no

master serration, the

crankshaft

pulley

is

marked

with a centre

punch

mark

which

must be

aligned

with

the

scribed

line on

the

crankshaft

nose (see Fig.

J.16).

J12 J14

J16

10C

No's1&4

..,.."..~..---_..-l.-....'Lliming

Groove

cra

n

\<S1

alt

Nose

K1

General

As

timing

gears

are employed, the

factory

setting

remains

constant.

It is also

worth

remembering

that

the removal

of

the

cylinder

head in

no

way effects

either

the

fuel

pump

or

the valve

timing.

TIMING MARKS

When

the

engine

is

originally

timed

at

the

factory,

certains

marks

are

stamped

on the gears, so

that

if

for

any reason

the

engine

timing

has

to

be

disturbed,

then

to reset

to

the

original

timing

is

quite

straight

forward.

To Reset the Engine to the Original

Timing

Before

commencing

the

retiming

procedure

it is

assumed

that

(a)

the camshaft, fuel

pump

and

idler

gears

have all been removed, and

(b)

the

camshaft

is

free

to

turn

by hand.

(If

the

cylinder

head

assembly

is

still

in

position,

it is

advisable

to

remove

the

atomisers

and

rocker

shaft

to

facilitate

the

retiming

operations).

1.

Turn the

engine

until the keyway in the

front

of

the

SECTION K

Timing

crankshaft

is

uppermost

as

shown

in Fig. K.1.

(This

will

bring

Nos. 1

and 4 pistons

to

T.D.C.)

2.

Fit

the

camshaft

gear

to its

hub

ensuring

that

the

'D'

marks

are

correctly

aligned.

(Refer

to

Fig.

J.5).

Secure

with

the

three

setscrews.

3.

Similarly,

fit

the

fuel

pump

gear

to

the

fuel

pump

drive

hub

ensuring

that

the

stamped

timing

marks

align

as

shown

in Fig. J.6.

Secure

with

the

three

setscrews.

4.

Replace

the

idler

gear

so

that

the

double

dots

on

thE;

idler

gear

are

matched

to

the

single

dot

on

the

crankshaft

gear

and

single

line

(or

dot)

on the

camshaft

gear,

whilst

the

single

dot

on

the

idler

gear

matches

with

the

double

dots

on

the

fuel

pump

gear.

These

timing

marks

when

correctly

positioned

will

appear

as

shown

in Fig. K.1.

5.

Locate

the

idler

gear

with

the

hub

and the

two

securing

setscrews

using a new

tabwasher.

6.

Backlash

adjustment

should

be

carried

out

as

described

under

the

heading

'To

Refit the

Idler

Gear and Hub.

(See

Page

J.1).

TIMING-K.2

K2

NOTE: When the

timing

has been reset,

great

care

should be

exercised

when first

turning

the

engine,

for

should

the

timing

be

incorrectly

set,

even by

only

one tooth, there is the

possibility

that

a valve head will

strike

the piston crown.

TIMING PIN

A

timing

pin is

fitted

at

the bottom

of

the

timing

case

cover

on the left hand side. When it is unscrewed

it

locates

in a

hole

machined

in

the

rear face

of

the

crankshaft

pulley

(as

shown in Fig.

K.2l,

when Nos. 1
and 4 pistons are at T.O.C.
With

some

applications,

two

holes are provided in

the

rear face of the

crankshaft

pulley, i.e., one

for

the

T.O.C.

position

and the

other

for

the

static

fuel

pump

timing

position.

Always return this pin to its

normal

location

im-

mediately T.O.C. has been

determined

and

before

any

attempt is made to turn

or

start

the

engine.

Checking Fuel Pump

Timing-See

Page N.S

Checking Valve Timing

To

check

the valve

timing

proceed

as

follows:

1.

Turn the

crankshaft

until

the valves

of

No. 4

cylinder

are 'on

overlap'.

2.

In this

position

set the valve

clearance

of

No. 1

inlet

valve

to

0.039 in

(1

mm).

3.

Turn the

engine

slowly

in the

normal

direction

of

rotation

until

the

clearance

No. 1

inlet

valve is

just

taken

up.

(In

this

condition

it

will

just

be poss-

ible

to

rotate No. 1

inlet

valve push rod

between

the

thumb

and the

forefinger).

4.

Nos. 1

and

4 pistons

will

now

be

at

T.O.C.

if

the

timing

has been

correctly

set.

NOTE:

No

adjustment

is

provided

for

valve

timing,

should

the

timing

be

incorrect

and

the

camshaft

gear

has been

correctly

fitted

to

the

camshaft

hub,

the

error

will

probably

be due to

incorrect

align-

ment

of

the

original

timing

marks

on

the

drive

gears.

Recheck

as

detailed

on Page K.1.

When valve

timing

is

originally

set

and

checked

during

production a timing

tolerance

of

plus

or

minus

2~

(flywheel)

degrees

is

allowed

for

item

(4)

above. When

the

timing

has been

correctly

set,

do

not

forget

to reset No. 1

inlet

valve clear-

ance

to the

correct

figure

also

to

return

the

timing

pin

to

its

correct

location

if

it

has been used

to

check

T.O.C.

L1

The

importance

of

correct

and

clean

lubrication

cannot

be stressed

too

highly

and all references to

engine

oil

should

be taken

to

mean

lubricating

oil

which

falls

within

the

specification

given in the appen-

dix. Care

should

be taken to ensure

that

the

oil

chosen

is

that

specified

for

the

climatic

conditions

under

which

the

engine

is operated.

THE LUBRICATING

OIL

PUMP

The

oil

pump

fits into a

machined

bore

in the cylin-

der

block

and

is

located

by means

of a screw

locked

by a tab washer. (Refer to No. 24

"Index

to Engine

Photographs"

for

its

location).

The

oil

pump is driven

through

spiral

gears

from

the camshaft, on

the

other

end

of

the

drive

shaft is

pressed

and

pinned a four

lobed

rotor.

This

rotor

meshes

with

and

drives

a five

lobed

rotor

which

is free

to

rotate

within

the cast iron

pump

body.

To

Remove

the

Sump

1.

Remove the

sump

drain

plug

and

drain

th.e

oil.

2.

Remove the

dipstick,

sump

securing

setscrews

and

SECTION L

Lubrication System

To Refit the Sump

1.

Lightly

apply a coating

of a suitable

jointing

com-

pound

to

the

crankcase

and

sump

faces,

position

the

joints

so

that

all

the

holes

align.

NOTE: When the

joints

are

being

placed

in posi-

tion

it

is

important

that

the

mitred

ends

go

right

up

into

the recesses in the

front

and

rear

main

bearing

caps.

2.

Lightly

apply a coating

of

jOinting

compound

to

the

cork

strips, then

press

these

strips

into

the

grooves

provided

in the main

bearing

caps.

3.

Place

the

sump

in

position

and

fit all the

retaining

setscrews,

tighten

evenly.

4.

Replace the

dipstick

and

sump

drain

plug, then

refill

with

clean

new

oil

of

an

approved

grade

to

the

correct

level.

Do

not

overfill.

To Remove the Oil Pump

1.

Drain

the

engine

oil

and

remove sump.

2.

Remove the

stra;ner

from the end

of

the

lubricating

oil

suction

pipe.

(Refer

to

Fig.

L.1).

3.

Unscrew

the

delivery

pipe

securing

nut

to

the

cylinder

block

and

the

setscrew

securing

the

suc-

tion

pipe

assembly

to the rear

main

bearing cap.

remove the sump.

L2

r-

(.V

~

IDLER

GEAR

AND
HUB

FUEL
PUMP
DRIVE

HUB

ROCKER

SHAFT

ASSEMBLY

I I

SPLASH

I AND

'OlL

MIST

TO

VALVE

AND I GUIDE

ASSE~IBLlES

I

I I I I I t I I I I ,

t

~

\ I

SPLASH

AND

OIL

MIST

\1/

MAIN

OIL

DRAINS

t

REDUCED

PRESSURE

FEED

+

~

~

\ /

SPLASH

AND OIL

MIST

SPLASH

AND

OIL

MIST

\ t ,

\ f ,

OIL

BACK

TO

[HI

SUMP

I'

~,

. - - I

...

t t

/

SPLASH

AND OIL

MIST

, t I

GALLERY

BY

GRAVITY

.-

c:

OJ
:0

(')

»

::!

o

z

(f)

-<

(f)

-I

m

s:

I

.-

i'->

2

L4

1.

Relief Valve

Housing

2.

Rotor

Housing

3.

Hole

for

Locating

Screw

4. Pump Drive

Gear

4.

Tap

back

the tab

washer

locking

the

location

screw

and

support

the

lubricating

oil

pump assem-

bly

(if

the

engine

is the normal way

up),

whilst

the

location

screw

is removed.

5.

Remove the

lubricating

oil pump assembly from

the

cylinder

block

as shown in Fig. L.2.

To the Oil

1.

Remove the

delivery

and

suction

pipes. The

pump

will

now

be as

shown

in Fig.

LA.

2.

Withdraw

the

drive

gear

by means

of

a suitable

puller.

3.

With the

pump

suitably

held in a vice,

(using

protective

clamps)

remove the

four

securing

set-

screws

and

remove

the

end

cover

assembly.

N.B. This end

cover

assembly

also

incorporates

the

pressure

relief

valve housing.

4.

Withdraw

the

drive

shaft

complete

with

inner rotor.

N.B. It is advisable

not

to

remove

this

inner

rotor

from

the

shaft

as

this

item is

not

available as a

separate

part

(See

later

note)

..

5.

Withdraw

the

outer

rotor.

Inspection

1.

Inspect

for

signs

of

wear, cracks,

pitting,

etc.

LUBRICATION

SYSTEM-L.3

L5

2.

Install the

drive

shaft

complete

with

inner

rotor,

then

the

outer

(driven)

rotor

ensuring

that

the

face

which

carries

the

chamfered

edge

enters

the

pump

body

first

(Refer

Fig. L.5),

now

carry

out

the

three

following

dimensional

checks.

L6

(a)

Check

the

clearance

between

the

inner

and

outer

rotors.

(Refer

Fig.

L.6).

(b)

Check

the

clearance

between the

outer

rotor

and

the

pump

body

(Refer

Fig.

L.7).

(c)

Check

the

clearance

between

the

rotors

and

the

end

cover

assembly

using a straight

edge

and

feeler

gauges

(Refer

Fig.

L.8).

LUBRICATION

SYSTEM-LA

L7

NOTE:

The

relevant

clearances

for

these

dimen-

sional

checks

are

given

on

Page B.10,

they

are

the

clearances

applicable

to a new

pump

and

are

in-

tended

to be used as a

guide.

Should a lubricating

oil

pump

be

worn

to

such

an

extent

that

it

ad-

versely

effects

the

working

oil

pressure,

then

a re-

placement

pump

should

be

obtained.

To Re-Assemble

the

Oil Pump

1.

Insert

the

outer

rotor

ensuring

that

the

face

which

carries

the

chamfered

edge

enters

the

pump

body

first.

(Refer

Fig.

L.5).

L8

L9

1.

Outlet

to

Main Oil

Filter

2.

Relief Valve

Plunger

3.

Plunger

Spring

4.

Spring

Cap

5.

Retaining

Splitpin

2.

Insert

the

drive

shaft

complete

with

inner

rotor

into

the

pump

body.

3.

Replace

the

end

cover

assembly

and

fit

the

four

securing

setscrews.

Ensure

correct

positioning

so

that

the

suction

and

delivery

pipes

will

locate

correctly.

4.

Press

the

oil

pump

drive

gear

onto

the

shaft.

5.

Finally

rotate

the

pump

by

hand

to

ensure

that

it

turns

quite

freely.

To

Rem

the

Oil

1.

Prime

the

lubricating

oil

pump

with

clean

lubricating

oil.

2.

Refit

the

suction

and

delivery

pipes,

do

not

tighten

the

pipes

at

this

stage.

3.

Place

the

lubricating

oil

pump

assembly

in

position,

locate

with

the

securing

screw

and

lock

it

with

the

tab

washer.

4.

Tighten

the

delivery

pipe

at

both

ends,

refit

the

setscrew

securing

the

suction

pipe

assembly.

5.

Tighten

the

suction

pipe

at

the

pump

end

then

refit

the

strainer

on

the

end

of

the

suction

pipe.

NOTE:

The

strainer

which

fits

on

the

end

of

the

suction

pipe

should

be

thoroughly

cleaned

in a suit-

able

cleaning

fluid

before

being

refitted. It is

good

practice

to

remove

this

strainer

and

clean

it

thoroughly

on

every

occasion

when

the

sump

is

removed.

6.

Replace

the

sump

as

previously

detailed

and

secure

with

the

setscrews.

7. Fill the

sump

to

the

correct

level

with

clean

oil

of

an

approved

grade.

NOTE: Caution

should

be exercised when restart-

ing the engine,

as

it will take a moment or two

for

the

oil pump and pipes to prime, therefore the

engine

speed should be kept to a

minimum

until

either

gauge

shows satisfactory pressure (where

fitted)

or

the

oil

pressure warning

light

is

ex-

tinguished.

The

most

satisfactory

way

to

prime the

lubricating

oil

system is

to

motor

the

engine

for

approximately

10/20

seconds

with

the

stop

control

in the

"no

fuel"

position

until

oil

pressure is indicated

before

any attempt is

made

to

start

the engine.

OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE

The

oil

pressure

relief

valve is

contained

in a housing

integral

with

the

oil

pump

end cover,

which

is secured

to

the

rotor

housing

by

four

setscrews. This relief valve

controls

the

maximum

oil pressure by

allowing

a spring

loaded

plunger

to move and by-pass excess

oil

back

to

the

sump

when the pre-determined

spring

pressure

given on page B.10 is exceeded.

To Dismantle the Oil Pressure Relief Valve

1.

Drain

the

engine

oil from the sump.

2.

Remove

the

sump

securing

setscrews and

carefully

remove

the

sump.

3.

Continue

as

for

removing the

oil

pump as pre-

viously

detailed.

4.

Remove

suction

and

delivery

pipes.

5.

Remove

the

four

securing

setscrews and remove

the

end

cover

assembly.

6.

Remove the

split

pin from the end

of

the housing

and

withdraw

the spring cap,

spring

and plunger.

An

exploded

view

of

the assembly is

shown

in Fig.

L.9.

7.

Thoroughly

clean the parts,

inspect

for

wear

or

damage

and

renew

if

necessary.

To Re·Assemble the Oil Pressure Relief Valve

1. Replace the plunger,

spring

and

spring

cap

then

secure

with

the

split

pin.

2.

Secure to

the

lubricating

oil pump

body

by means

of

the

four

setscrews.

3.

Continue

as

detailed

for

refitting the

lubricating

oil

pump.

Oil

PRESSURE

Always ensure

that

with

the

engine

running,

oil

pressure is

registering

on the gauge

or

the oil pressure

warning

light

is extinguished.

Pressures

do

vary

according

to

climatic

conditions

and even

between

individual

engines,

but

the oil pres-

sure range

at

normal

working

speed and

temperature

is given on Page B.9. The pressure

will

drop

whilst

the engine is

idling

and

also a slight

drop

will

be ex-

perienced

when the oil is hot,

this

is

quite

normal. If,

however, the

oil

pressure is

suspected

of

being

too

high

or

too

low

then

reference

to

the

possible

faults

listed

under

these headings given on Page D.1, may

LUBRICATION

SYSTEM-L.S

LUBRICATING OIL FILTERS

To ensure cleanliness

of

the

lubricating

oil a sump

strainer

and a main full

flow

type

of

oil

filter

are

fitted.

The sump

strainer

consists

of

a gauze

wire

container

which

is fitted

over

the

end

of

the

lubrication

oil

pump

suction

pipe. All

oil

must pass

through

this

strainer

before

it reaches the

oil

pump.

The main full

flow

type oil

filter

is

mounted

externally

on the

side

of

the

cylinder

block.

All

the

oil

passes

through this

filter

after

it leaves the pump,

but

before

it reaches the bearings.
The full

flow

filter

may

incorporate a paper

element

in

a bowl

or a screw

on

canister

in

which

the

element

is

an integral part of the canister.

At

the

appropriate

time,

as

given on Page C.2, the

paper

element

or

the

canister

should be renewed

as

detailed

below.

To Renew the Paper Filter Element

1.

Unscrew

the

filter

bowl

securing

setscrew

as

shown

in Fig.

L.1

O.

2.

Withdraw

the

filter

bowl

(Fig.

L.11),

remove

the

element

and

.discard.

3.

Clean

the

bowl

in a

suitable

cleaning

fluid.

4.

Renew the sealing

ring

in

the

filter

head,

where

necessary.

5.

Place the

new

element

centrally

in the bowl, posi-

tion the

bowl

and

element

assembly

squarely

and

centrally

on the

filter

head and

tighten

the

bowl

securing

setscrew.

6.

As the

filter

element

will

normally

be

changed

at

the same

time

as the

engine

lubricating

oil, refill

the

sump

with

oil, run

the

engine

and

check

for

oil

leaks.

Recheck

the

oil

level

after

running

the

engine

and

top

up as necessary.

The

filter

bowl

securing

setscrew

should

be

checked

for

tightness

alter

1000

miles

(1500

km)

or

24 hours

running

following a filter

element

change.

prove helpful.

l10

LUBRICATION

SYSTEM-L.6

To Renew the Filter Canister

1.

Unscrew

the

canister

from the

filter

head (see

Fig.

L.12).

2.

Check

that the

threaded

adaptor

is secure in the

filter

head and

discard

the

old

canister. Clean the

filter

head.

3.

Using clean

engine

lubricating

oil,

lightly

oil the

top

seal

of

the

new

canister.

4.

Prime the

canister

with

lubricating

oil

allowing

time

for

the oil to

filter

through the element.

5.

Screw

the new

canister

on

to

the

filter

head

until

the canister seal

just

touches the head and then

tighten by hand as detailed in the

instructions

on

the canister. Where a tool

is

available, tighten to 15

Ibf

It

(2,07

kgf

m).

6.

As the

filter

canister

will

normally

be changed

at

the same time as the engine

lubricating

oil, refill

the sump

with

oil, run the engine and

check

for

oil

leaks. Recheck

the

oil level

after

running the

engine and

top

up

as

necessary.

Oil Filter Assembly

In some instances

the

setscrews

securing

the

filter

head

to

the

cylinder

block

are

enclosed

within

the

filter

head and bowl assembly as

shown

in Fig. L.11.

With

this

arrangement, the

filter

bowl

has

to

be re-

moved

before

the

filter

head can be

detached

from

the
block.
When

fitting

the

filter

head joint, ensure

that

the

holes

in the

joint

line

up

with

the

corresponding

drillings

in

the

cylinder

block.

By·Pass Valve

Should the

lubricating

oil filter

element

be

allowed

to become

contaminated

to the

extent

where the lubri-

cating

oil

has

difficulty

in passing

through

the element,

then a pressure

difference

will build

up

between the

inlet

and

outlet

sides

of

the filter assembly. When this

pressure reaches the figure

given on Page B.10, a ball

valve

will

open in the

filter

headcasting

and

allow

un-

filtered

oil to by-pass the

filter

element

to

prevent the

L11

engine

being starved

of

oil.

l12

The

engine

is

cooled

by water

circulation

through

passages in the

cylinder

block

and

cylinder

head. Cir-

culation

is by thermo-syphon action, assisted by an

impeller

type

water

pump,

belt

driven from the crank-

shaft pully.

FAN BELT
To Adjust the Fan Belt

Fan belt

adjustment

is achieved by

altering

the posi-

tion

of

the

generator

as

detailed

below.

1. Slacken the

generator

adjusting

lever setscrew.

2.

Slacken

the

two

generator

to

bracket

mounting

bolts.

3.

Move

the

generator

either

towards

or

away from

the

engine

to

either

slacken

or

tighten

the belt.

4.

Lock

in the desired

position

by

tightening

the

ge:1erator

adjusting

lever setscrew.

5.

Belt

tension

must

be

adjusted

so

that,

without

undue

pressure,

the

belt

can

be

depressed

'%

in

(10

mm)

with

the

thumb

at

the

centre

of

the

longest

free

length

(see Fig. M 1).

6.

If

the

tension

is

correct

tighten the

two

generator

to

bracket

mounting

bolts.

NOTE: When a new belt is fitted,

it

is advisable

to

recheck

the

adjustment

after

only a

comparatively

short

running

period. This is to

allow

for

the initial

stretch

which

is

common

to

new belts,

once

this

initial

stretch

has taken place the

belt

may be

checked

in

accordance

with

Periodical

Attentions.

SECTION M

Cooling System

To Remove the Fan Belt

1.

Slacken the

generator

adjusting

lever

setscrew.

2.

Slacken the

generator

to

bracket

mounting

bolts.

3.

Pivot the

generator

towards

the

cylinder

block.

4.

Turn the engine

slowly

by hand

and

work

the

fan

belt

off

the

water

pump pulley.

5.

The

belt

can

now

be

lifted

from the

generator

and

crankshaft

pulleys

and

removed from the

engine.

6.

Examine the belt

for

signs

of

fraying

or

cracks

in

the

rubber

and renew if necessary.

To Refit the Fan Belt

Refitting the

belt

is

just

a reversal

of

the removal

operation.

Adjust

the

belt

tension

as

previously

detailed

under

the

heading

"To

Adjust

the Fan
8elt".
If a

new

belt

ha'. been fitt0d

refer

to

the

note

given

after

the

details

on fan

belt

adjustment.

WATER PUMP

General

Two

different

types

of

pump

are

used,

depending

upon

the

application.

In one type

of

pump

the

impeller

shaft

is

supported

by

two

separate

bearings, as

shown

in

Fig. M.3 and in

the

other

the

bearings

are

combined

with

the shaft

to

form

one assembly, as

shown

in Fig.

M.4. The lastest

pumps

of

both

types

incorporate

a

stationary

seal

that

registers on a

ceramic

counterface

revolving with the

impeller.

Earlier

pumps

incorporate

a revolving seal

that

registers

on a stationary

counter-

face

fitled

in an

insert

fixed

to

the

pump body, as

shown

in Fig. M.5. In

earlier

pumps

to

the type shown

in Fig. M.5,

the

seal

registers

directly

on to the insert.

To Remove the Water

Pump

1. Tap

back

the

locking

tabs, remove the fan securing

setscrews

and

remove

the

fan

(and

adaptor

where

fitted)

.

2.

Remove the fan

belt

as

previously

detailed.

3.

Unscrew

the

four

setscrews

securing

the water

pump

and

back

plate

to

the

cylinder

block.

4.

Remove

the

water

pump

and

backplate.

COOLING

SYSTEM-M.2

M2

To

Dismantle the Separate Bearing Type

Pump (Fig. M.3)

NOTE:

On

later

pumps

items

4,

5,

10

and

11

are

no

longer

fitted

and a longer

distance

piece

has

been

introduced

to

accommodate

the

removal

of

the

seal

retaining

flange

(4).

1.

Where

necessary

remove

the

pulley

circlip

(14)

and

using a suitable

puller,

remove

the

pulley

(1)

as

shown

in Fig. M.2.

Make a note

of

the

position

of

any

pump

securing

setscrew

that

has been

trapped

in its

location

by

the

pulley.

2.

Using a suitable

adaptor

that

will

pass

through

the

Ii

M4

2

0.000/0.006

in

(0,00/0,15

mm)

7 6

3

bearings,

press

out

the

shaft

(8)

through

the

rear

of

the

pump

complete

with

the

impeller

(6)

counterface

(7),

seal

(9)

and

thrower

(10).

3.

Press

the

impeller

from

the

shaft

and

remove

the

counterface,

seal

and

thrower.

4.

Hemove

the

bearing

circlip

(13)

and

using

a suit-

able

adaptor,

press

the

bearings

(12)

and

distance

piece

(2)

out

through

the

front

of

the

body

(3).

5.

Remove

the

seal

retaining

flange

(4),

felt

seal

(11)

and

seal

retainer

(5).

To Dismantle the

Combined

and

Shaft (

Using a suitable

puller,

remove

the

pulley

(1),

as

shown

in

Fig. M.2.

Make a note

of

the

position

of

any

pump

securing

setscrew

that

has

been

trapped

in its

location

by

the

pulley.

2.

Remove

the

clip

(7)

through

the

aperture

in

the

pump

body

(2).

3.

Press

the

bearing

and

shaft

assembly

(8)

out

through

the

rear

of

the

pump

complete

with

the

impeller

(3),

counterface

(4),

seal

(5)

and

thrower

(6)

4.

Press

the

impeller

from

the

shaft

and

remove

the

counterface,

seal

and

thrower.

To

Dismantle

Earlier

(

II

This

is

the

same

as

for

the

later

types

detailed

above

M3

~77?:;rz2:Z~st22~~j~iE~~~1_

except

that

the

insert

(1)

will

be

pressed

out

with

the

.

ri

9

shaft

and

impeller.

Inspection

1.

Examine

the

pump

body

for

cracks,

corrosion

or

any

other

damage.

Check

that

the

seal

housing

bore

is

not

damaged.

Renew

where

necessary.

2.

Examine

the

shaft

and

bearing

assembly

for

wear

or

corrosion.

Renew

where

necessary.

3.

Examine

the

water

thrower

flange

for

damage

or

corrosion.

Renew

where

necessary.

M5

0.029/0.033 in
(0,74/0,84

mm)

4.

Examine

the

water

pump seal,

counterface

or

insert

for

excessive wear,

scoring

or

cracks

on the sealing

faces. Renew

where

necessary.

5.

Remove rust

and

scale

from the

impeller

and ex-

amine

for

excessive

corrosion

or

other

damage.

Renew where necessary.

6. Examine the

pump

pulley

for

signs

of

cracks,

corrosion

or

any

other

damage. Renew where

necessary.

To A.ssemble the Separate Bearing Type

(fig.

M.3)

I

NOTE:

On

later

pumps

items

4,

5,

0

and

1 are

no

longer

fitted

and a longer

distance

piece

has

been

introduced

to

accommodate

the

removal

of

the

seal

retaining

flange

(4).

1.

Position

the

thrower

(10)

in its

compartment

in the

pump

body

(3)

with

the

central

protrusion

of

the

thrower

towards

the

rear.

2. Insert

the

seal

retainer

(5)

and

position

the

felt

seal

(11)

and

seal retaining flange

(4)

with

the

dish

of

the

flange

towards

the

felt

seal.

3.

Press the

bearings

(12)

and

distance

piece

(2)

on

to

the

shalt

(8)

with

the

shielded

faces

of

the

bearings

facing

outwards

to

the

front

and rear

ends

of

the

shaft

and

three

quarters

fiJi

the bear-

ings

and

space

between

the

bearings

with

high

melting

point

grease.

4.

Press the

bearings

and shaft

assembly

into

the

body,

ensuring

that

the

shaft

passes

through

the

thrower. Fit

the

retaining

circlip

(13).

5.

Press the

thrower

into

its

position

on the shaft.

6.

Locate

any

pump

securing

setscrews

that

cannot

be fitted

after

the

pulley

(1)

is in

position.

7.

Press the

pulley

on to the

shaft

until

it abuts

the

front

bearing

and

where

applicable,

fit the

pulley

circlip

(4).

When the

pulley

is fitted

during

pro-

duction,

a pressure

of

2~

- 3

tonflin

2

(3,94/4.73

kgflmm2)

is required.

If a substantially

reduced

COOLING

SYSTEM-M.3

pressure will press

the

pulley

on

the

shaft, a re-

placement

pulley

and

lor

shaft

should

be fitted.

8.

Ensure that the

carbon

sealing

face

of

the

seal

(9)

is

clean

and fit the

seal

squarely

in

its

housing.

9.

Check

that the sealing

face

of

the

counterface

(7)

is

clean

and

position

the

counterface,

by

hand

only,

with

the

sealing

insert

registering

with

the

carbon

face

of

the

seal.

10. With

the

pump resting on the

front

end

of

the

shaft

and the pump

body

unsupported,

press

on

the

impeller

(6)

until

the

rear

face

of

the

impeller

vanes is

0.000/0.006

in

(0,00/0,15

mm)

below

the

rear face

of

the body.

To Assemble the Combined Bearing and
Shaft Type Pump (Fig. M.4)

1. Press the

bearing

and

shaft

assembly

(8)

into

the

pump

body

(2),

with

the

smaller

diameter

end

to-

wards

the

rear,

until

the

retaining

clip

grooves

of

the

bearing

and

body

align.

Fit the

retaining

clip

(7).

2.

Locate

any

pump

securing

setscrews

that

cannot

be fitted

after

the

pulley

(1)

is in

position

and

press

the

pulley on

to

the

shaft

until

the

front

end

of

the

pulley

is flush

with

the

front

end

of

the shaft.

3.

Press the

thrower

(6)

into

its

position

on the shaft.

4.

Ensure

that

the

carbon

face

of

the seal

(5)

is

clean

and

fit the seal

squarely

into its

housing.

5.

Check

that

the

sealing

face

of

the

counterface

(4)

is

clean

and

position

the

counterface,

by

hand only,

with

the sealing

insert

registering

with

the

carbon

face

of

the seal.

6.

With

the

pump resting on

the

front

end

of

the

sheft

and

the

pump

body

unsupported,

press

on the

impeller

(3)

until

the

rear

face

of

the

impeller

vanes is

0.000/0.006in

(0,00/0,15

mm)

below

the

rear

face

of

the pump body.

To A.ssemble Earlier

This

is

the

same

procedure

as

for

the

later

types

de-

tailed

above

except

for

the

following

points.

Before

assembly,

thoroughly

clean the

insert

recess

and

drain

hole

in the

body

with

cleaning

spirit

or

Locquic

'Q'.

After

fitting

the

bearings

and

shaft

assembly

and the

thrower,

lightly

coat

the

locating

diameter

of

the insert

(1)

and

the

inner

diameter

of

the insert recess

with

grade

'AVV'

Loctite.

Ensure that

the

counterface

(2)

is

clean

and

press

the

insert

home

with

the

cQunterface

to

the

rear

of

the

pump. Clean off any

surplus

Loctite.

When

pressing

in

the

insert, ensure

that

the

sealing

face

of

the

counterface

is

not

damaged.

Check

that

the

carbon

face

of

the seal

(3)

is

clean

and

position

the

seal

with

this

face

registering

on

the

counterface.

With

the

pump

resting

on

the

front

end

of

the shaft

and

the

body

unsupported,

press on

the

impeller

until

the

rear

face

of

the

impeller

vanes is

0.029/0.033

in

(0,7410,84

mm)

below

the

rear

face

of

the pump. On

earlier

pumps

where

the

seal

face

registers

directly

on

to

the

insert

with

no

counterface

fitted,

the

impeller

should

be

pressed

on

to

the shaft

until

the

clearance

between

the

front

face

of

the

impeller

and the

water

pump

body. is

0.005/0.010

in

(0,12/0,25

mm).

This

can

be

checked

by

means

of

a feeler

gauge

through

the

outlet

channel

of

the

pump

body.

COOLING

SYSTEM-M.4

To Refit the Water Pump

1.

Fit

the

backplate

followed by the

water

pump

to

the

cylinder

block, using new

joints

lightly

coated

with

suitable

jointing

compound.

2.

Secure

the

water

pump assembly

to

the

cylinder

block

with

the

four

setscrews.

3.

Refit the fan

belt

and

adjust

to

the

correct

tension.

4.

Refit the fan using new lockwashers.

Water Pump Seals

Where 'Ceramic

counter

face

water

pump seals are fitted,

if the

engine

is run

without

coolant, even

for

a few

seconds,

the

heat

build-up between the

carbon

seal and

ceramic

counter

face

is very rapid, resulting in the

cracking

of

the

ceramic.

This

often creates the mis-

understanding

that the cause of leakage is

due

to

the

incorrect

assembly

of the sealing arrangement

of

the

water

pump.

THERMOSTAT
To Remove the Thermostat

1. Drain the

coolant

from

the

radiator.

2.

Remove the

water

hose from

the

engine

water

out-

let

connection

at

the

front

of

the

cylinder

head.

3.

Remove

the

two

nuts

and

washers

securing

the

outlet

connection

to

the

thermostat

housing.

4.

Remove the

outlet

connection

and

joint.

5.

Lift

ouLthe

thermostat

as

shown

in Fig. M.6.

To Test the Thermostat

1. Immerse the

thermostat

in a suitable

container

of

water

and

slowly

heat. An

accurate

thermometer

should

be available

to

check

the

temperature

of

the

water

as

it

rises.

2.

Note the temperature

at

which

the valve in

the

unit

commences

to open.

This

temperature

should

M6

be as

stamped

on the

unit

by

the

manufacturers.

3.

If the

unit

does

not

function

properly

then a re-

placement

thermostat

will

be

required,

as

no

adjustment

of

these

units

is

possible.

Certain

engine

applications

have an

external

bypass

which

incorporates a thermostat

with

a bypass

blanking

valve.

This

valve

closes

the bypass

port

as the

thermo-

stat opens

directing

the

coolant

through

the

radiator.

(see Fig.

M.7).

When

replacing

a thermostat,

the

cor-

rect

type

must

be fitted.

Failure

to

fit

the

correct

thermostat

may

result

in the

engine

overheating.

To Replace the Thermostat

Replacing

the

thermostat

is a reversal

of

the removal

procedure. A new

joint

should

be

fitted

between

the

thermostat

housing

and

the

water

outlet

connection.

When the

radiator

has been

refilled

with

coolant,

check

that

no

leaks

are

visible.

------

I===I=====~

M7

1.

Thermostat

2.

Thermostat

Bypass Valve

3. Bypass

Outlet

4.

Outlet

to

Radiator

SECllON N

Air Cleaners and Fuel System

AIR CLEANERS

Operating

conditions

play an

important

part

in de-

ciding

how

frequently

it is necessary to

service

the

air

cleaner. If you are

working

in

dusty

conditions

then

the

air

cleaner

should

be attended to every day.

as

indicated

under

"Preventive

Maintenance".

If

not

already

fitted, you

should

consider

the fitting

of

an 18 in

water

gauge

RESTRICTION INDICATOR in

the

air

trunking

between

the

air

cleaner

and

the

engine

induction

manifold.

It

indicates

by means

of

a visual

signal

when

the

air

cleaner

element

needs

servicing.

A means

of

visual

signalling

for

the

"Rotopamic"

type

air

cleaner

failure

is the use

of

the

"DUST

SIGHT". A window

in

this

device

becomes

cloudy

when

the

system has failed',

but

this

type

of

indicator

is

usually

only

used

with

the

two

stage

extreme

heavy

duty

cleaners.

The type of

air

cleaner

fitted to

your

vehicle

or

machine

depends

upon

the

manufacturer

of

your

equip-

ment. Usually,

guidance

for

the

method

of

servicing

is

shown

on the b'ody

of

the

air

cleaner. but the

following

advice

will

also

help.

Dry

Type

Two

Stage

"Cyclopac"

See Fig.

N.1

The

dust

bowl

collects

the heavier

particles

which

are

thrown

out

by the

centrifuge

path

of

the air. This

dust

enters

the

bowl

by

the

slot

in the baffle plate. The

level

of

dust

in the

bowl

must

not

be

allowed

to reach

to

within

half

an

inch

of

the

slot

in the baffle plate.

For

cleaning

purposes

the

assembly

should

be re-

moved from the engine. With

horizontal

installations

the

slot in the baffle is

located

at

the

top.

Remove

the

dust

bowl

by releasing the

pinch

screwed

clamp.

Remove

the

baffle from the

interior

of

the

dust

cup

by

lifting

it out,

which

gives

access

to

the

dust

for

removal. The

element

can be removed by

releasing

the

wing

nut.

Renew

the

element

or

clean

by

back

flow

air

pres-

sure

no

more

than 100

Ibflin2 or

washing

in a non

foaming

detergent

as

recommended

by

the

air

cleaner

manufacturers.

Allow

the

element

to

soak

for

at least

ten

minutes

and then

gently

agitate. Rinse

the

element

with

clean

water

and

allow

to

dry.

Do

not

use oven

heat.

WARNING:

There

is a

danger

that

some

of

the

dust

remaining

in

the

element

after

it is

washed

will

be

pulled

through

into

the

engine

if the

element

is re-

placed

in a wet

condition.

The reason

for

this

is

that

the

water

acts

as

carrier

for

the

dust.

2 3 4

5

6

N1

'1.

Body

Assembly

2.

Element

Assembly

3.

Nut

and

Gasket

Assembly

4.

Clamp

Assembly

5.

Baffle

Skirt

6.

Cup

Assembly

Inspect

the

element

by

placing a bright

light

in its

centre.

Any

pin

holes,

thin

spots

or

ruptures

render

the

element

unfit

for

further

use.

This

cleaning

procedure

reduces

the

effective

life

of

the

element.

With

all

dry

type

elements,

they

should

be

renewed

after

six

cleanings

and

at

least

once

a year,

which-

ever

occurs

first.

Never

use

petrol

(gasoline)

for

cleaning.

Dry

Type

Two

Stage

"Cyclone"

See Fig. N.2

The

AUTOMATIC

DUST

EJECTOR

should

always

be

kept

clean

and

the

lips

of

the

rubber

ejector

checked

to

see

that

they

close

but

do

not

adhere

together.

To

service

the

element,

unscrew

the

clamping

screw

and

remove

the

element

retaining

strip.

Remove the

seal

plate

(if

fitted)

and

element.

If

the

element

is

contaminated

by

dry

dust,

clean

by

carefully

tapping

by

hand

or

by

directing

low

pres-

sure

compressed

air

on

to

the

clean

side

of

the ele-

ment.

If

the

element

is

contaminated

by oil

or

soot,

it

can

be

cleaned

by

washing

in a

suitable

non-foaming

detergent.

After

washing,

rinse

out

thoroughly

by

directing

clean

water

to

clean

air

side

of

element

and

allow

to

dry -do

not

oven

dry.

AIR CLEANERS AND FUEL

SYSTEM-N.2

N2

~

•

Inspect

cleaned

element

by

placing a bright

light

inside

and

looking

through

element. Any thin spots,

pin

holes

or

other

damage

will

render the

element

unfit

for

further

use.

The element

should

be renewed

after

six

detergent

washes

or

annually,

whichever

occurs

first. Clean the

inside

of

the

element

body and

dry

thoroughly.

Inspect

joints, hoses and

clips

and renew where necessary.

Re-assemble

cleaner

ensuring

that

all jOints

are

leak

proof.

Extreme Heavy Duty Two Stage,
with Multiple Elements "Rotopamic" -
See Fig. N.3

The

"Rotopamic"

type

air

cleaner

may be fitted

where

the

application

is

designed

to

work

in heavy

concentrations

of

dust

and a

restriction

indicator

must
be fitted.
The

air

cleaner

elements are

replaceable

and

no

attempt

should be made to clean

or

re-use

dirty

ele-

ments

or

cartridges.

N3

For

cartridge

replacement,

unclamp

and

remove

the

moisture

eliminator

or

pre-cleaner

panel,

pull

out

the

dirty

cartridges

and insert the

new

ones. Refit

the

pre-
cleaner.
Never

use petrol

(gasoline)

for

cleaning

any

of

the

air

induction

system.

Oil Bath Air Cleaners - See Fig. N.4

To

service the oil bath

type

cleaner,

the

lid

should

be removed and the

element

lifted

out. The

oil

in

the

container

should be

drained

out

and

the

dirt

and

sludge

thoroughly

cleaned

out

with a proprietary

cleaning

fluid

or

Kerosene. Refill

the

container

with

clean

new

engine

lubricating

oil,

to

the

indicated

level.

The woven

filter

element

should

be

cleaned

in a bath

of

Kerosene. Do

not

use

petrol

(gasoline)

as

this

highly

volatile

fuel

could

cause

explosive

damage

within

the

engine. The

indicated

filling

mark

level

should

never be exceeded,

otherwise

oil

can

be

drawn

up into

the

engine

which

could

lead

to

uncontrolled

engine

speeds, and

excessive

engine

wear.

N4

The heavy duty

oil

bath

air

cleaners

are usually

fitte.d

with a centrifugal

pre-cleaner

mounted

on

top

of

the main cleaner,

this

should

be removed and the

air

inlet

vanes in the

bottom

plate

of

the

assembly, the

ejection

slots

on the

side

of

the

cone

and the vanes

in

the

outlet

tube,

cleaned

of

dust

and

dirt.

The de-

tachable

element

is

accessible

by

lowering

the

oil

container

which

may be

attached

by

clips

or

a pinch

screwed

clamp.

Thoroughly

clean

the

container

and

refill to the in-

dicated

level

with

new

engine

lubricating

oil. The

separate

element

should

be

cleaned

in a Kerosene
bath.
The

upper

element

which

is

permanently

attached

inside

the

body

should

be

periodically

cleaned by

washing

in a

Kerosene

bath. Drain

the

element

thoroughly

before

reassembly and

do

not

use petrol

(gasoline)

for

cleaning

purposes.

FUEL

OIL

FILTERS

The

element

in

this

f:lter

is

of

the

paper

type

ane.

therefore

no

attempt

should

be

made

to

clean

it. Its

life

will

be

governed

by the

quality

and

condition

of

the

fuel

passing

through

it.

but

under

average

con-

ditions

the

element

should

be

renewed

in

accordance

with

the

recommended

Periodical

At:entions

given

on

Page

C.2.

This

period

would

naturally

be

reduced

if it

was

apparent

from

the

condition

of

the

element

if

removed

and

inspected.

that

conditions

warranted

it.

I On early engines

the

filter

element

is

contained inside

I a

filter

bowl,

(Fig. N5). On later engines

the

filter

I element

is

situated

between

the

filter head and

the

I

bottom

cover, (Fig. N6).

To

Renew

the

Filter

Element

1 .

2.

3.

Clean

the

outside

of

the

filter.

Release

the

setscrew

in

the

centre

of

the

filter

head.
Lower

the

filter

bowl,

(Fig. N5) or

the

bottom

cover, (Fig.

N6)

depending on

which

type

of

filter

is

used and discard

any

fuel

together

with

the

used

filter

element.

.J

J

J

1

4.

Clean

the

inside

of

the

filter

head and

the

inside

of

the

filter

bowl

or

bottom

cover.

5.

6.

7.

8.

Inspect

the

seals and

renew

them

if

they

are

damaged.
Place

the

new

filter

element inside

the

bowl

or

put

the

bottom

cover on

the

bottom

of

the

new

filter

element.

Offer

up

the

filter

bowl

or element

assembly

to

fit

centrally on

the

seal in

the

filter

head.
Hold in

this

position

whilst

the

securing

setscrew

is

located and tightened. Do

not

overtighten.

Prime

the

fuel

system

as

detailed in page N.

11.

FUEL

LIFT

PUMP

the

in

Position

1.

Disconnect

the

outlet

pipe

(lift

pump

to

filter)

leaving a free

outlet

from

the

pump.

N5

AIR CLEANERS AND FUEL

SYSTEM-N.3

N6

2.

Rotate

the

engine

and

note

if

there

is a

well

defined

spurt

of

fuel

from

the

outlet

port

once

every

two

eng

ine

revolutions.

N7

NOTE:

As

an

alternative

the

pump

may

be

operated

by

means

of

the

hand

primer

as

shown

in Fig. N.7,

which

should

give

the

same

result

every

time

the

priming

lever

is

operated.

However

should

the

engine

happen

to

have

stopped

in

such

a

position

that

the

eccentric

operating

the

lift

pump

is in

the

maximum

lift

position,

then

it

will

not

be

possible

to

operate

the

hand

primer

properly.

If

such a condition

arises

the

remedy

is

to

rotate

the

engine

one

complete

revolution.

AIR CLEANERS AND FUEL

SYSTEM-N.4

Pressure Checking

of

Fuel Lift Pump

in

Position

Fit a 0-10

Ibflin

2

(0-0,7

kgflcm2)

or

0-70

kN/m

2

pressure

gauge to

the

outlet

of the pump. Ensure that

there

are

no leaks at the

connections

between pump and gauge.

Crank

the engine

for

10 seconds and note the maximum

reading on the gauge. If the pressure recorded is less

than

75%

of the

minimum

production

static

pressure

shown below,

then

rectify the pump. Also observe the

rate at

which

the pressure

drops

to

half

the maximum

figure obtained

when

cranking

has ceased. If less than

30 seconds, rectFfy the pump.

4

bolt

type

2

bolt

type

Minimum

Production

Static Pressure

Ibflin2 kgflcm2

kN/m

2

6 0,42

41

6 0,42

41

To Remove the Lift Pump

Minimum

Test Pressure

(75%

of Minimum

Production

Pressure)

Ibflin2 kgflcm2

kN/m

2

4.5

0,31

31

4.5 0,31

31

1.

Disconnect

the pipes from

the

inlet

and

outlet

ports. Seal the

ends

of

the

pipes

to

prevent the

entry

of

foreign

matter.

2.

Remove the

two

nuts and washers

holding

the

pump

to

the

tappet

inspection cover.

Withdraw

the

pump,

distance

piece

and joints.

To Dismantle the Lift Pump

1. Before dismantling, make a file

mark

across

the

flanges

for

location

purposes when the

pump

is

being

re-assembled.

2.

Remove the five

cover

screws

and

separate the

two

main castings, then remove

the

diaphragm

assembly

from

the

lower

half by

turning

the dia-

phragm

through

90'

in

either

direction.

NOTE: The

diaghragm

and pull rod assembly is a

permanent

assembly and no

attempt

should be

made

to

separate

the

parts.

3.

Remove the retaining

clip

from one

side

of the

pump

body

and push

out

the

rocker

arm retaining

pin.

Withdraw

the

rocker

arm, etc., from the body.

4.

Prise

out

the valves with a

screwdriver

or

other

suitable

tool.

Inspection

I.

Check

the

diaphragm

assembly

and

renew if the

material is

split

or

cracked,

or

if

serious wear is

apparent

in the

link

engagement

slot.

2. The

diaphragm

spring

should

be

replaced

if

faulty

or

corroded. A new

spring

should

have the same

colour

identification

(Refer

to

Page

B.11).

3.

Replace the valves unless they

appear

to

be in per-

fect

condition.

4.

Examine the

rocker

arm,

operating

lever,

rocker

arm retaining pin

and

rocker

arm

return

spring

for

wear. Replace any

parts

where

necessary.

5.

Replace all joints,

seals

and

washers

as

routine

procedure.

6. Examine upper and

lower

castings

for

wear

or

distortion.

Slight

distortion

of

flanges

can

be

remedied by

grinding

the

flange

face

to restore

flatness.

To Re-Assemble the Lift Pump

Examine the casting and

ensure

that

there is

sufficient material to

provide

a sound

staking

when

new valves

are

fitted.

Clean the valves recesses to

allow

the

new

valves

to be

correctly

fitted.

1.

Insert a

new

valve

gasket

in each valve recess.

2.

Place

the

new

valves in

the

recesses. The valve

in the

inlet

port

should

be fitted

with

the

spring

outwards

(i.e.,

towards

the

diaphragm

flange)

and

N8

the valve in

the

outlet

port

fitted in the reverse

position.

3.

Press the valves home with a suitable

piece

of

tubing.

approximately

9/16

in (14,29

mm)

inside

diameter

and

{f

in (19,05

mm)

outside diameter.

4.

Stake the

casting

in six places

(between

the

original

stakings)

round each valve, with a suitable

punch.
NOTE: Valves fitted

to

earlier

lift

pumps were

held in

position

with a retaining plate and

two

screws. On

no

account

should attempts be made

to

stake the valves of this

earlier

type pump.

5.

Place the

rocker

arm retaining pin in the appro-

priate hole in the

lower

casting and push

through

until it

protrudes

slightly inside.

6. Fit one

packing

washer and the

link

into

the

casting

moving the

pin

in slightly

to

retain them.

7. Fit the

rocker

arm and return

spring

and retain by

moving the

pin

in further, ensuring that the

spring

seats

correctly.

8. Fit the

remaining

packing washer, then push

the

rocker

arm retaining pin through the link, washer

and

casting

until

the ends

protrude

equally beyond

the outside

of

the

casting.

9.

Retain by

securing

with the

two

clips.

10. Insert the

new

rubber

sealing washer

followed

by

the steel seating washer and

diaphragm

return

spring.

11. Place the

diaphragm

assembly

over

the

spring

with the pull rod downwards,

locating

the

top

of

the

spring

in

the

diaphragm

protector

washer.

12.

Now

position

the

pull rod

so

that the flat

notched

blade

has one

of

its

thin

edges

facing

the

rocker

arm. Press

downwards

on the

diaphragm

assembly

and

twist

it

through

90" in

either

direction,

this

action

will

engage and retain the pull rod in

the

fork

of

the link.

13. Operate the

rocker

arm

against

the

diaphragm

spring

pressure until the

diaphragm

is level

with

the

body

flange.

14. Place the

cover

assembly in

position

and line

up

the

file

marks

made on the flanges

prior

to

dismantling.

15. Still

holding

the

diaphragm

level

with

the

body

flanges, fit

the

five flange

securing

screws,

tighten

evenly and securely.

To Refit the Fuel

lift

Pump

1.

Fit

the

distance

piece using a

joint

on

either

side.

2.

Enter

the pump

operating

lever

into

the

recess in

the

tappet

inspection

cover

as shown on Fig. N.9

and

secure

with

the

two

nuts and washers.

3.

Reconnect

the

low pressure fuel pipes to the

inlet

and

outlet

ports.

AIR CLEANERS AND FUEL

SYSTEM-N.S

N9

FUEL INJECTION PUMP

Description

The fuel

injection

pump

is

of

the D.P.A.

distributor

type.

It

is a

precision

built

unit

incorporating a simple

hydraulic

governor

or

alternatively

one

of

the mech-

anical

flyweight

type

depending

upon

the

application

to

which

the

engine

is fitted.

To

Remove

the

Fuel

Injection

Pump

1. Remove

the

four

high

pressure

pipes

between

the

pump

and

the

atomisers

and

blank

off all

ports

to

prevent

the

ingress

of

foreign

particles.

2.

Remove the

low

pressure

fuel

pipes

from

the

inlet

and

outlet

connections

and

blank

off all ports.

3.

Disconnect

the

stop

and

throttle

controls

and

their

return

springs.

4.

Remove the

two

nuts and the

socket

headed set-

screw

which

secure

the fuel

pump

to

the mount-

ing

flange

together

with

their

spring

and plain

washers.

5.

Carefully

withdraw

the fuel

pump

from

its

mount-

ing.

AIR CLEANERS

AND

FUEL

SYSTEM-N.6

To Refit the Fuel Injection Pump

1.

Replace

the

fuel

pump

mounting

flange

Joint

(where

necessary).

2.

Offer

up the

pump

as

shown

in Fig. N.10

ensuring

that

the

master

spline

on its

quill

shaft

is

correctly

positioned

to

engage

with

the

female

splines

within

the

fuel

pump

drive

hub.

NOTE:

This

master

spline

ensures

that

the

pump

will

only

locate

in

the

drive

hub

in

one

position

for

timing

purposes.

3.

When

the

splines

are in

correct

alignment

the

pump

can

be

pushed

in

until

the

mounting

flanges

meet

and

the

securing

nuts

and

setscrew

with

their

washers

can

be

fitted.

4.

Before

tightening,

align

the

timing

marks

scribed

on

the

fuel

pump

mounting

flanges

as

shown

in

Fig. N.11.

Tighten

the

setscrew

and

nuts.

5. Refit

the

low

pressure

pipes

to

the

inlet

and

outlet

connections.

6.

Refit

the

high

pressure

fuel

pipes.

7.

Reconnect

the

throttle

and

stop

controls

together

with

their

return

springs.

8.

Prime

the

fuel

system

with

fuel oil as

detailed

on

Page N.10.

9.

Fuel

pump

timing

can

be

checked

as

detailed

in

the

following

text.

FUEL INJECTION PUMP

TIMING

Reference

should

be

made

to

the

details

given

on

Page

K.1

covering

engine

timing.

If

this

timing

sequence

has

been

followed

regarding

the

timing

gears

and

the

timing

marks

on

the

mounting

flanges

are

correctly

aligned

as

shown

in Fig.

N.1

then

the

fuel

pump

timing

should

be

correct.

N10

The

checking

of

the

scribed

line

on

the

fuel

pump

and

drive

housing

mounting

flanges

can

be

checked

by

means

of

special

tool

MS67B

(see

Fig. N.12) as

follows

:-

To Check Engine Marking Angle

on

Fuel Pump Drive Housing

1.

Turning

engine

in

normal

direction

of

rotation,

position

No.1

piston

at

TD.C.

compression

stroke

by

means

of

the

timing

pin

or

pointer.

2. Remove fuel

injection

pump.

N11

3.

Release

screw

(5, Fig. N.12)

and

position

splined

shaft

(6)

in

tool

so

that

relevant

spline

is

to

front

of

tool.

4.

Ensure

that

slotted

pointer

(2)

is

positioned

with

slot

to

front

of

tool

and

chamfered

sides

of

slot

outwards.

At

this

stage.

slotted

ends

of

pointer

should

be

kept

well

back

from

front

of

body.

Ensure

that

flat

in

washer

fitted

behind

pointer

securing

screw

(3)

is

located

over

pointer.

5.

Release

bracket

screw

(4)

and

set

bracket

so

that

the

chamfered

edge

is in

line

with

the

relevant

engine

checking

angle

(see

Page

B.12).

N12

-

6.

Fit

timing

tool

to

engine

in fuel

pump

position

ensuring

firstly

that

splined

shaft

with

master

spline

is

fully

located

in

pump

drive

shaft

and

then

that

register

of

tool

is

seated in

fuel

pump

locating

aperture

(see

Fig.

N.13).

Lock

splined

shaft

in tool.

If

pointer

is

180"

from

timing

mark,

engine

is pro-

bably

on

wrong

stroke

in wh ich case,

remove

tool

and

set

engine

on

correct

stroke.

7.

Slide

slotted

pointer

forward

so

that

slot

is

half

way

over

mounting

flange.

AIR CLEANERS AND FUEL

SYSTEM-N.7

To check Marking Angle

of

Fuel Injection Pump

1. Release

screw

(5, Fig. N.12) and

remove

splined

shaft

(6).

2.

Ensure

that

slotted

pointer

(2)

is

positioned

with

slot

to

rear

of

tool

and

chamfered

side

of

slot

out-

wards.

At

this

stage,

slotted

end

of

pointer

should

be

kept

well

back

towards

body

of \001.

Ensure

that

flat

in

washer

fitted

behind

pointer

securing

screw

(3)

is

located

over

side

of

pointer.

~

3.

Connect

NO.1

outlet

of

r:;ump

body

to

an

atomiser

N13

8.

Turn

timing

tool

by

hand

in

opposite

direction

to

pump

rotation

(shown

on

pump

nameplate)

to

take

up

backlash

and

check

that

timing

mark

on

mount-

ing

flange

is

central

in

slot

of

pointer

(see

Fig.

N.14) .

9. If

timing

mark

is

not

central,

position

of fuel

pump

drive

gear

should

be

altered

as

detailed

on Page

J.3 so

that

the

mark

is

central

in

slot

with

backlash

taken

up.

10. When

engine

timing

is

correct,

remove

tool.

11. Refit

fuel

pump

in

engine

with

timing

marks

in line.

N14

test

rig

and

pump

up

to a maximum

pressure

of

30 atm (31

kgflcm2)

or

440

Ibflin

2

4.

Release

bracket

screw

(4)

and

set

bracket

so

that

chamfered

edge

is in

line

with

relevant

marking

angle

as

given

on

Page

B.12.

5.

Position

timing

tool

on

pump

drive

shaft

with

master

splines

engaged

and

tool

locating

on

spigot

(see

Fig.

N.15).

6.

Turn

pump

in

normal

direction

of

rotation

as

shown

on

nameplate

until

pump

locks.

7.

In

this

position,

slide

pointer

forward

until

it

is

halfway

over

pump

flange

and

check

that

tool

timing

mark

is

central

to

slot

in

pointer.

Alternative

Method

where

No Tool is

Available

A

further

check

is

possible

and

utilises

the

internal

timing

marks

within

the

pump

body.

To be

able

to

see

these

marks

necessitates

the

removal

of

the

inspection

cover.

On

the

fuel

pump

rotor

inside

the

fuel

pump

are

a

number

of

scribed

lines.

each

one

bearing

an indi-

vidual

letter. A timing

circlip,

one

end

of

which

has

a

straight

edge

is --positioned

inside

the

pump

body

and

has

to

be

preset

so

that

when

the

appropriate

scribed

line

on

the

fuel

pump

rotor

aligns

with

the

straight

end

AIR CLEANERS AND FUEL

SYSTEM-N.S

of

the

circlip,

it

denotes

commencement

of

injection

(static

timing)

see

Fig,

N,16.

To

set

the

timing

circlip,

it is

necessary

to

remove

the

pump

from

the

engine

and

fix

the

position

of

the cir-

clip

by

connecting

No. 1

cylinder

outlet

connection

(marked

W)

to

an

atomiser

tester

and

pump

up

to

30

atm

(31

kgflcm2)

or

440

Ibflin

2

.

Turn

the

pump

by

hand

in

the

normal

direction

of

rotation

until

it

"locks

up".

The

squared

end

of

the

circlip

should

now

be

lined

up

with

the

letter A (for

hydraulically

governed

pumps)

or C (for

mechanically

governed

pumps)

on

the

pump

rotor.

NOTE:

On

earlier

pumps,

the

timing

circlip

had a

scribed

line

on

one

end

and

on

these

pumps,

the

scribed

line

on

the

fuel

pump

rotor

should

be

aligned

with

the

scribed

line

on

the

circlip.

N16

1.

Ensure

the

pump

circlip

is

correctly

positioned

as

previously

described

and

that

the

fuel

pump

is

cor-

rectly

fitted

to

the

engine

with

the

scribed

line

on

the

mounting

flange

aligning

with

the

adjacent

mounting

flange

on

the

cylinder

block

(see

Fig.

N.11)

.

2.

Position

the

crankshaft

so

that

No. 1

piston

is

at

T.O.C. on its

compression

stroke.

3.

Remove

the

cylinder

head

cover.

4.

Slacken

the

valve

adjusting

screw

No. 1

exhaust

valve

sufficiently

to

allow

the

rocker

lever

to

be

moved

to

one

side

and

the

push

rod

removed,

rotate

the

rocker

lever

on

the

shaft

so

that

the

valve

spring

cap

is

accessible

for

using

the

valve

spring

compressor.

5.

Remove

the

collets,

spring

cap

and

springs

from

No.1

exhaust

valve

and

allow

the

valve

to'rest

on

the top

of

the

piston. A suitable

ring

should

be

fitted

to

the

valve

stem

to

prevent

the

valve

falling

completely

into

the

cylinder.

6,

With

the

aid

of a clock

gauge

in

contact

with

the

end

of

the

valve

now

resting

on

No. 1 piston,

it

will

be

necessary

to

position

the

crankshaft

so

that

the

piston

will

be

0.108 in

(2,75

mm)

B.T.D.C.

this

being

the

equivalent

of

18 C

on

the

engine

fly-

wheel.

Refer

Fig. N.17.

To

do

this,

zero

the

gauge

to

piston

T.O.C.

and

then

turn

the

crankshaft

in

the

opposite

direction

turn

and

then

forward

until

the

required

position

is

registered

on

the

clock

gauge.

This

enables

the

backlash

in

the

timing

gears

to

be

taken

up.

NOTE:

The

above

setting

is

for

4.108

vehicle

engines.

For

other

applications

and

engines

see

Page

B.12.

7.

Remove

the

inspection

plate

on

the

fuel

pump

enabling

the

rotor

to

be seen.

(Fig.

N.16).

8.

With

No. 1

piston

at

the

static

timing

point

on

its

compression

stroke,

the

scribed

line

on

the

rotor

marked

'A'

(for

hydraulically

governed

engines)

or

'c'

(for

mechanically

governed

engines)

should

align

with

the

straight

edge

or

scribed

line

on

the

timing

circlip.

9.

If

the

timing

is

incorrect

proceed

by

either:-

(a)

making

any

necessary

adjustments

by

means

of

the

holes

in

the

fuel

pump

gear,

they

are

slotted

enabling

the

drive

shaft

to

be

turned

relative

to

the

gear

when

the

securing

set-

screws

are

slackened.

(Refer

to

Fig.

J.6)

or

(b)

by

slackening

the

two

nuts

and

socket

headed

setscrew

which

secure

the

fuel

pump

to

the

mounting

flange

and

turning

the

pump

body

in

the

direction

required.

10.

When

the

fuel

pump

timing

has

been

set,

turn

the

engine

against

the

normal

direction

of

rotation

once

again

to

the

appropriate

piston

displacement

to

check

that

the

squared

end

of

the

circlip

is

now

aligned

with

the

line

on

the

rotor.

11.

When

the

fuel

pump

tmiing

has

been

correctly

set,

slowly

turn

the

engine

to

T.O.C. in

the

normal

direction

of

rotation,

remove

the

clock

gauge

and

refit

the

valve

springs.

12.

Refit

the

push

rod

and

reset

the

valve

clearance.

to

normal

rotation,

approximately

an

eight

of

a

Ni7

Maximum Speed Setting

(Refer

to

Figs. N.18 and N.19)

The

maximum

speed

screw

(5)

is set and sealed by

the

manufacturers

and

must

not

be

altered

or

tam-

pered

with

in any way, unless

factory

authority

is

first

obtained

and any

adjustments

necessary are

carried

out

by

experienced

personnel.

As

with

all seals on the

pump

unauthorised

removal may

render

the guarantee

void.

The

maximum

no

load

speed

may vary

according

to

the

vehicle

or

application

to

which

it

is fitted,

reference

may

be

made

to

the

code

number

stamped

on

the

fuel

pump

data

plate.

The

last

four

numbers

in the

code

indicate

the

maximum

no load

engine

speed,

therefore

in the case

of

the

following

example

it

would

be 4480

rev/min.

Code

Example

EH39/1200/0/4480.

NOTE: If

the

fuel

pump

data

plate

is

damaged

or

de-

faced

so as

to

make

it

impossible

to

read

accurately,

or

if there is

no

code

stamped

on the

plate

you are

advised

to

contact

your

nearest

C.A.V.

Distributor,

or

alternatively,

Service

Department,

Perkins

Engines Ltd.,

Peterborough,

to

obtain

the

required

information.

NOTE: The

engine

must

not

be

allowed

to

operate

at

a

speed

in

excess

of

that

specified

Of

severe

damage

may

occur.

Ni8

Earlier Fuel Pump

Later Fuel Pump

N19

AIR CLEANERS AND FUEL

SYSTEM-N.9

IDLING SPEED ADJUSTMENT

This

adjustment

is

carried

out

by

means

of

the

idling

adjustments

screw

(4),

it is

carried

out

in

conjunction

with

the

setting of

the

anti-stall

device

with

the

engine

warmed

through

as

detailed

in

the

following

text.

Anti-Stall Device
(Refer

to

Figs. N.18 and N.19)

(a)

Slacken

the

locknut

(2)

sufficiently

to

enable

the

anti-stall

device

body

(1)

to

be

unscrewed

two

complete

turns.

(b)

Adjust

idling

speed

to

625

rev/min*

with

the

idling

adjustment

screw

(4).

(c)

Now

screw

down

the

anti-stall

device

body

(1)

until there is a very

slight

increase

in

engine

speed,

bring

back

half a turn

and

lock

with

the

lock

nut

(2).

(d)

Accelerate

the

engine

to

maximum

no

load

rev!

min

and

immediately

return

to

idling.

Should

the

period

of

return

from

maximum

rev/min

to

idling

exceed

three

seconds

the

device

has been

screwed

in

too

far.

However

should

stalling

occur,

then

the

device

has

not

been

screwed

in far

enough.

Therefore

the

neces-

sary

adjustment

should

be

made

to

suit

whichever

is

the

case.

*This

idling

speed

may

vary

according

to

application,

refer

to

relevant

manufacturers

service

literature

or

to

Perkins

Engines

limited,

Peterborough

if

in

doubt.

1.

Anti-stall

device

body

2. Anti-stall

device

body

locknut

3.

Air

vent

screw

4.

Idling

adjustment

screw

5.

Maximum

Speed

Screw

AIR CLEANERS AND FUEL

SYSTEM-N.10

ATOMISERS

General

When

replacing

atomisers

in

the

cylinder

head, it is

essential

that

a new,

correct

type

copper

washer

is

fitted

between

the

nozzle

body

and

cylinder

head,

The

correct

torque

for

the

atomiser

securing

nuts

is

12 Ibf

It

(1,7

kgf

m)

or

16 Nm,

The

first

symptoms

of

atomiser,

trouble

usually

come

under

one

or

more

of

the

following

headings:-

Misfiring,

2,

Knocking

in

one

(or

more)

cylinders,

3,

Engine

overheating,

4,

Loss

of

power,

5,

Smoky

exhaust

(black),

6,

Increased

fuel

consumption,

Testing for Faulty Atomiser

If an

atomiser

is

suspected

of

being

faulty, try

this

method

to

isolate

it.

Slacken

the

union

nut

at

the

atomiser

end

of

the

high

pressure

fuel pipe,

If

each

atomiser

is

isolated

in

turn

in

this

way,

(with

the

engine

running

at

approxi-

mately

1,000

rev/min)

tightening

each

union

nut

firmly

before

proceeding

to

the

next,

then

the

faulty

atomiser,

when

isolated

in

this

manner,

will

have

little

or

no

effect

on the

running,

Warning

Great

care

should

be

taken

to

prevent

the

hands

or

face

from

getting

into

contact

with

the

spray,

as

the

working

pressure

will

cause

the

oil

to

penetrate

the

skin

with

ease,

Atomiser

Pressures

Details

of

holders

and

nozzle

types

together

with

pressure

settings

are

given

on Page

8,12,

NO

ATTEMPT

SHOULD

BE

MADE

TO

ADJUST

THE

INJECTION

PRESSURE

WITHOUT

AN

ATOMISER

TESTING

PUMP,

IT IS

QUITE

IMPOSSIBLE

TO

ADJUST

THE

SETTING

OF

ATOMISERS

WITH

ANY

DEGREE

OF

ACCURACY

WITHOUT

PROPER

EQUIPMENT.

Atomiser

Identification

Atomisers

can

be

identified

by

code

letters

stamped

on a

tab

washer

fitted

under

the

spring

cap

nut

(see

Fig, N,20)

or

alternatively,

the

code

is

stamped

on

the

atomiser

body,

Details

of

codings

can

be

found

on

Page

8,12,

1.

2,
3,

4,

5,

6,

7,

8,

9.

1O,
11,

12,
13,

::4------1

.......

-----2

[!!ooIII~----5

10

.......------11

.......

----12

~

...

13

Capnut

N20

Spring

cap

Shim

washer

Nozzle

spring

Identification

tab

washer
Spindle
Fuel

inlet

union

Nozzle

holder

body

Securing

flange

Nozzle

needle

Nozzle

body

Nozzle

capnut

Copper

sealing

washer

Fuel Pipes

(High

Pressure)

When replacing the fuel pipes it should

be

noted that

no two pipes are the same, each

is

formed to suit

an
individual atomiser position. This is important when
ordering a replacement pipe, as each one has a
different part number.

High pressure fuel pipes are now supplied with formed

ends instead of olives. The earlier pipes supplied with

olives were fitted as shown in Fig. N.21. Originally the
olives were fitted in the reverse position, but both
positions are satisfactory if undamaged.

N21

The pipes should be clean,

(wash

in clean fuel oil and

blow

through

the

fine

bore

with

compressed air

if

there

is

any

doubt),

the

olives

at

each end should

not

be split

or

unduly

compressed,

otherwise

leakage

will

result and a

new

pipe

will

be needed.

Ensure when fitting, that the pipe fits squarely at both
ends and that the union nuts are tightened firmly but

not over-tightened.
The correct tightening torque

for

high pressure fuel

pipe nuts is

15

Ibf ft

(2,1

kgf m)

or

20

Nm.

When changing an atomiser always remove the pipe
completely.

The air must

be

vented from the fuel system whenever

any part

of

the system between the fuel tank and in-

jection pump has been disconnected

for

any reason,

or

when the system has been emptied of fuel.

No

attempt

must

be made

to

start

the

engine

until

the

injection

pump

has been filled and primed as serious

damage can be caused

to

the

pump

due

to

lack

of

lubrication.
The method of priming detailed below, ensures that

only fuel which has passed through the paper filter
element can reach the interior of the pump.

1. Loosen

the

vent

screw

(1, Fig.

N22)

on

top

of

the

filter.

Where a vent

screw

is

not

fitted,

loosen

the

return

to

tank

banjo

bolt

(2) on

top

of

the

filter.

2. Operate

the

priming lever

on

the

fuel

lift

pump

(see Fig.

N7)

and

when

fuel,

free

of

air,

flows

from

the

vent

or

banjo

connection,

tighten

the

vent

screw

or

banjo bolt. If

the

drive

cam

of

the

fuel

lift

pump

is

at

maximum

lift

it

will

not

be

possible

to

operate

the

lift

pump

and

the

-'

crankshaft

must

be

turned

through

one

revolution.

4.108

Series

Workshop Manual, June

1986

AIR

CLEANERS AND FUEL

SYSTEM-N.11

N22

3. Ensure

that

the

stop

control

is in

the

'run'

position.

if

an

electric

solenoid

stop

control

is

used,

turn

the

key

of

the

start

switch

to

the

'R'

position.

Set

the

throttle

to

fully

open.

4.

Loosen

the

vent

screw

on

top

of

the

control

gear

housing, on

hydraulically

governed

fuel

pumps

(see Fig. N

19)

or

on

the

rear

of

the

governor

housing on

mechanically

governed

fuel

pumps,

(1, Fig.

N23).

Loosen

the

vent

screw

in

the

locking

bolt

of

the

hydraulic

head,

(2,

Fig.

N23),

for

both

types

of

fuel

pump.

Operate

the

priming

lever on

the

fuel

lift

pump

until

fuel,

free

of

air,

flows

from

the

vents.

Tighten

the

vent

screw

in

the

locking

bolt

of

the

hydraulic

head and

then

the

vent

screw

on

the

governor

housing

or

control

gear

housing.

5.

Where a Thermostart

cold

starting

aid is

fitted

and

the

fuel pipe has been drained, loosen

the

pipe

connection

at

the

starting

aid.

Operate

the

priming

lever

of

the

lift

pump

until

fuel,

free

of

air,

flows

from

the

connection

and

tighten

the

connection.

6. Loosen

the

pressure pipe

connections

at

N23

two

of

the

atomisers.

Ensure

that

the

manual

stop

control,

if

fitted,

is in

the

run

position.

Operate

the

starter

motor

until

fuel,

free

of

air,

comes

from

the

pipe

connections,

tighten

the

high

pressure pipe

connections.

The

engine is

now

ready

to

start.

If

after

priming

the

fuel

system,

the

engine

starts,

runs

satisfactorily

for a few

minutes

and

then

loses

power,

misfires

or

stops

and

when

checked

the

system

is

found

to

be

full

of

air,

then

a leak

on

the

suction

side is indicated.

SECTION P

Flywheel and Flywheel Housing

To Remove

the

Flywheel

1.

Remove the gearbox,

clutch

assembly and any

linkage

as

detailed

in the service literature applic-

able

to the

particular

vehicle

or

application.

2.

Knock

back

the

locking

tabs from the flywheel

securing

setscrews.

3.

Remove the securing setscrews and

carefully

re-

move

the

flywheel from the

crankshaft

flange.

To Renew the Flywheel Ring Gear

1. The flywheel ring

gear

is a

shrunk

fit on the fly-

wheel, its removal is

carried

out by

partially

cut-

ting

through

the

gear

and chisel

cutting

it from

the

flywheel. An alternative method is

to

apply

localised

heat

to the ring gear to expand it

sufficiently

to enable

it

to

be tapped evenly from

the flywheel.

2.

The

locating

faces

of

the

flywheel

should

be

thoroughly

cleaned

to

ensure a

positive

location

when

the

new

ring

gear

is fitted.

3.

Clean, then heat the

new

ring

gear

to a tempera-

ture

not

exceeding

480°F

(250QC).

4.

Fit the ring

gear

over the flywheel

with

the lead on

the

teeth facing uppermost, i.e.,

facing

away from

the

engine

when the flywheel is fitted. Rotate the

gear

quickly

on its

location

immediately

it is fitted

to ensure it is laying flat, then

allow

to

cool.

To Refit the

1"1",.11'

..

""

..

1

It is most essential to ensure that the

crankshaft

flange

face and

periphery

are

perfectly

clean and free from

burrs,

similarly

the mating face

of

the flywheel

itself

before refitting

of

the flywheel is attempted. Failure

to

ensure

this

may make

it

impossible

to

fit

the flywheel

satisfactory

within

the

various

limits

quoted

hereafter.

It will be noted that there is a sixth

(untapped)

hole in

the

crankshaft

flange

which

will be

at

B.D.C.

when

Nos. 1

and

4 pistons are at T.O.C.

The flywheel can only be fitted in one

position

due to

the

irregular

spacing

01

the setscrew holes.

1.

It

is

advisable

to

screw a short

stud

into

the crank-

shaft flange

just

finger

tight, so that when the fly-

wheel is offered up this stud can take the

weight

of

the flywheel

whilst

the

securing

setscrews

are

fitted, this stud can

then

be removed and re-

placed

by the fifth setscrew.

2.

Tighten

the

securing

setscrews

to the

torque

given

on

Page B.2

but

do

not

lock

with

the

tab

washers

P1

3.

Set

up a dial

test

indicator

(clock)

gauge

with

the

base

secured

against

the

rear

face

of

the

flywheel

housing

and the

gauge

stylus

at

right

angles

to

the

periphery

of

the

flywheel. Turn the

crankshaft

and

check

the run out,

the

flywheel

should

run

truly

within

0.012 in (0,30

mm)

total

indicator

reading

at

this

stage.

P2

FLYWHEEL AND FLYWHEEL

HOUSING-P.2

P3

4.

Check

the

alignment

of

the

flywheel

face

by

posi-

tioning

the

gauge

as

shown

in Fig. P.1.

Turn

the

crankshaft

and

the

total

indicator

reading

for

the

flywheel

being

truly

at

right

angles

to

the

crank-

shaft

axis

should

not

exceed

0.001 in (0,025

mm)

for

every

inch

(25

mm)

the

gauge

stylus

is

reading

from

the

centre

of

the flywheel, i.e.

if

the

flywheel

has a

diameter

of

approx.

20

in

(500

mm)

then

the

stylus

will

be

approx.

10 in

(250

mm)

from

its

centre,

therefore

the

total

indicator

reading

should

not

exceed

0.010 in (0,25

mm).

5.

When the

flywheel

is

correctly

aligned,

lock

the

securing

setscrews

with

the

tabwashers.

To Remove the Flywheel Housing

1.

Remove the

flywheel

(Refer

to

previous

text).

2.

Remove the

starter

motor.

3.

Unscrew

the

securing

setscrews

and

carefully

tap

the

housing

clear

of

the

locating

dowels.

4.

Carefully

examine

the

housing

for

any

signs

of

cracks,

fretting

or

other

damage.

To Refit the Flywheel

Housing

1.

Ensure that the

rear

face

of

the

cylinder

block

and

the

mating

face

of

the

flywheel

housing

are

perfectly

clean

and

free

from

burrs,

etc.

2.

Locate

the

flywheel

nousing

carefully

on

the

two

dowels

and

refit

the

securing

setscrews.

3.

Mount

a dial

test

indicator

(clock)

gauge

with

the

base on the

crankshaft

flange

and

the

gauge

stylus

on

and

perpendicular

with

the

inner

face

of

the

housing

aperture

as

shown

in Fig. P.2.

Rotate

the

crankshaft,

the

inner

bore

should

be

truly

central

with

the

crankshaft

within

the

limits

listed

towards

the

end

of

this

section.

4.

With

the

gauge

base

still

mounted

in

the

same

position

adjust

the

stylus

so

that

it

is

at

right

angles

to

the

vertically

machined

rear

face

of

the

flywheel

housing

as

shown

in Fig. P.3.

Turn

the

crankshaft

and

check

that

this

face

is

at

right

angles

to

the

cranshaft

axis

to

within

the

follow-

ing

limits.

Check

dowel

location

in

block

and

housing,

ream

and

fit

oversize

dowels

where

necessary.

Diameter

of

Max.

Housing

Bore

Allowance

(total

indicator

reading)

Up

to

14{

in 0.006 in (0,15

mm)

(362

mm)

141

to

201 in 0.008

in

(0,20

mm)

(362

to

511

mm)

201.

ot

25!

in

0.010 in (0,25

mm)

(511

to

648

mm)

25!

to

31

in 0.012 in (0;30

mm)

(648

to

787

mm)

NOTE:

Any

adjustments

which

may

be

necessary

to

bring

the

flywheel

housing

within

the

limits

quoted

must

be

carried

out

on the

housing,

under

no

circumstances

may

the

rear

face

of

the

cylinder

block

be

interferred

with.

5.

When

the

housing

is

correctly

aligned

finally

tighten

the

securing

setscrews.

6.

Refit

the

flywheel

as

previously

discribed

on

Page

P.i.

ALTERNATOR

Models AC5,

HAC,

15ACR and 17 ACR

1. Precautions

The

diodes

in

the

alternator function

as

one-way· valves

and

the

transistors

in the

regulator/control

box operate

as fast switches. Both are

accurate

and sensitive.

They

do

not

wear

out

and seldom require adjustment,

but

because they are sensitive

to

voltage changes and

high

temperature, the following precautions are vital to

prevent them from being destroyed.

(a)

DO

NOT

disconnect

the battery whilst the

engine

is running. This will cause a voltage surge in the

alternator

charging

system

that

will

immediately

ruin the

diodes

or

transistors.

(b)

DO

NOT

disconnect

a lead

without

first

stopping

the

engine

and turning all

electrical

switches

to

the

off

position.

(c)

DO

NOT cause a short

circuit

by

connecting leads

to

incorrect

terminals. Always identify a lead to its

correct

terminal. A short

circuit

or

wrong con-
nection giving reverse polarity will immediately
and permanently ruin transistors

or

diodes.

(d)

DO

NOT

connect

a battery

into

the system

without

checking

for

correct

polarity

and voltage.

(e)

DO

NOT

"flash"

connections

to

check

for

current

flow. No

matter

how

brief

the

contact

the tran-

sistors may be ruined.

2. Maintenance

The

alternator

charging

system

will

normally

require

very little attention, but it should be

kept

free from

build-up of dirt, and a

check

made

if it

fails

to

keep

the

battery charged.

(a)

Regularly

inspect

the

driving

belts

for

wear and

correct

tension. It is

important

to

ensure

that

all

belts on a multiple

belt

drive

have equal

tension

and are each carrying

their

share of the load.

Slack

belts

will

wear

rapidly

and cause

slip

which

will

not drive the

alternator

at the required speed.

Drive belts

which

are

too

tight

impose severe

side

thrust on the

alternator

bearings

and shorten

their

life.

Periodically

ensure

that

the

alternator

is

correctly

aligned

to

the drive.

(b)

Do

not

replace

faulty belts

individually

in a mUlti-

belt system. A

complete

matched set

of

drive

belts

must always be used.

(c)

Keep the

alternator

clean

with a cloth

moistened in

kerosene

or

cleaning

fluids. Ensure that

ventilation

slots and

air

spaces are

clear

and

unobstructed.

SECTION Q

Electrical Equipment

(d)

Remove any

dirt

accumulated

on the

regulator/

control

box housing, and

ensure

that

cooling

air

can pass freely over the casing.

3.

Fault Finding

on

AC5

The AC 5

alternator

is

so

designed

that a flow

of

current

indicated

either

by

the

extinguishing

of

the

warning

light,

or

as shown on the ammeter, is

suffiicient

evidence that the system is in

proper

working

order.

Therefore, no open

circuit,

voltage

or

current

output

checks

should be performed in the

installation

UN-

LESS:-

(a)

The warning

light

fails

to

illuminate

when

the

generator

is

stationary, and the

switch

is

closed

OR fails

to

become

extinguished

when the alter-

nator

is running.

(b)

No

charging

current

is

shown

on ammeter.

(c)

The battery is flat.

(d)

The

battery is

"boiling",

indicating

loss of

voltage

control.

If any

of

the above symptoms

occur,

the

procedure

in-

dicated

below

should be

followed.

(a)

Connect a good

quality

moving

coil

voltmeter

0-50

volts range across the battery

or

regulator

negative terminal, and one

of

the three

positive

terminals

marked LO, MED, HI.

Disconnect

alter-

nator

output

terminal. Fit a

good

quality

moving

coil

0 - 100

amp

ammeter

in series

with

the

alternator terminal and

output

lead.

The

battery

should

be

in a charged

condition.

(b)

Close the

warning

light

switch

(master

electric

switch

on

dashboard)

when the

warning

lamp

should

light

up.

(c)

Switch

on a

10-15

amperes load such as lights,

etc.

for

fifteen minutes.

(d)

Start

engine

and run

at

fast idle speed

with

fans,

etc,

for

fifteen minutes.

1.

The

warning

light

should

go

out.

2.

The

ammeter

records

a small charge depen-

dant

on

engine

speed.

(e)

Increase

engine

speed

momentarily

to

maximum

speed, when the

charging

current

should be

about

30

Amperes

for

24 Volt, and 53 Amperes

for

12

volt

systems.

(f)

With the

alternator

running

at

approximately

half

speed,

(engine

speed about 1,500

rev/min)

switch

off

electrical

load.

Depending

on the

connection

selected

for

the

positive

sensing

wire

LO; MED

or

HI,

the

voltage

should rise

to

between

26

and

28 volts

on

24

volt

systems and

13-14

volts on 12

volt

systems

and

then

(emain constant.

At

the

same

time

the

current

reading should

drop

appreciably.

ELECTRICAL

EQUIPMENT-Q.2

Any

variance

in

the

above

data

could

indicate a fault

and

the

following

procedure

should

be

adopted

before

disconecting

any

components.

The

regulator

is a

sealed

unit

and is

non-repairable

and

if

found

to

be

faulty

it

must

be

replaced.

Warning

Lamp

does

not

light

when

switched

"On".

Check

the

bulb.

If

no

fault

Check

all

wiring

connections

at

regulator,

alternator

and

battery.

If no

fault

Switch

off,

disconnect

'F' lead

at

regulator

and

connect

it

to

the

negative

terminal.

Switch

on. If

warning

lamp

lights

up, the

regulator

is

faulty. If

lamp

fails

to

light

up, the

alternator

is faulty.

Warning

Lamp

does

not

go

out

and

Ammeter

shows

no

output

when

running.

Check

all

regulator,

alternator

and

battery

connections.

If no

fault

Switch

off,

disconnect

'F' lead

at

regulator

and

connect

to

regulator

negative

terminal.

Switch

on,

and

run at fast idle.

If no

output,

alternator

is faulty.

If

output

appears,

regulator

is faulty.

Warning

Lamp

does

not

go

out

when

running

and

Ammeter

shows

reduced

output

with

full

output

only

at

maximum

speed

or

Warning

Lamp

goes

out

but

Alternator

delivers

reduced

output.

Full

output

only

at

maximum

speed.

Alternator

faulty. Remove

from

installation

and

apply

open

circuit

diode

check.

Warning

Lamp

flashes

intermittently

and

Ammeter

needle

oscillates

when

Battery

is fully

charged

and

no

loads

are

switched

in.

Check

for

excessive

resistance

in

regulator

negative

sensing

lead.

If no fault,

regulator

is faulty.

Batteries

overcharging

and

Ammeter

indicates

high

or

full

output

all

the

time.

Check

regulator

positive

sensing

lead

and

its

connec-

tion

at

regulator.

If

no

fault,

regulator

is

faulty.

4.

Fault Finding

on

11

AC

If the

alternator

does

not

produce

its

rated

output

of

43

amperes

for

12

volt

and

23

amperes

for

24

volt

circuit,

the

failure

may be

due

to

any

unit

or

the

associated

wiring,

and

the

following

procedure

should

be

followed.

TEST 1

Checking the Field Isolating Relay

Disconnect

the

earthed

battery

terminal

and

the

cable

from the

alternator

main

output

terminal.

Connect

a

0-60

DC

ammeter

between

the

terminal

and

dis-

connected

cable.

Link

terminals

'C1'

and

'C2'

on

the

field

relay.

Reconnect

the

battery

cable.

Close

the

master

switch

and

start

engine

and

run

at

charging

speed.

If

ammeter

shows a charge

the

relay

is

faulty,

or

its

wiring

and

connections.

If

ammeter

shows

no

charge,

carryon

with

Test

2.

TEST 2

Checking the Alternator and Control Box

Leave

the

test

ammeter

connected,

and

disconnect

cables

'F'

and

'-'

from

control

unit

and

join

them

together.

Remove

link

from

field

relay

terminals

and

ensure

they

are

connected

to

'C1'

and

'C2'.

Start

engine

and

run

at

charging

speed.

Ammeter

should

indicate

current

values

at

35

amps

or

more

for

12

volt

circuit

or

22

amps

or

more

for

24

volt

circuit. A zero

or

low

reading

indicates a faulty
alterator.
If

satisfactory

output

is

recorded, a faulty

control

unit

is

indicated.

TEST 3

Checking or Adjusting the Voltage Setting

The

regulator

of

the

4 TR

control

unit

must

be

set

on

CLOSED

CIRCUIT,

when

the

alternator

is

under

load.

Also, the

system

must

be

stabilised

before

checking

or

resetting

is

carried

out,

and

the

battery

must

be in a

well

charged

condition.

Check

the

battery

to

control'

unit

wiring,

to

ensure

that

the

resistance

of

the

com-

plete

circuit

does

not

exceed

0.1

ohm.

Any

high

resist-

ance

must

be

traced

and

remedied.

Connect a test

DC

voltmeter

(suppressed

zero

type)

scale

12 15

volts

for

12

volt

installations

or

24-30

volts

for

24

volt

in-

stallations,

between

the

battery

terminals,

and

note

the

reading

with

no

electrical

load.

Disconnect

battery

earth

cable

and

connect

test

ammeter

between

alter-

nator

main

terminal

and

disconnected

cable.

Re-

connect

battery

earth

cable,

and

switch

on

an

electrical

load

of

approximately

two

amps,

such

as,

side

and

tail

lights.

Start

engine

and

run

at

about

2000

rev/min

for

at

least

eight

minutes.

If

the

charging

current

is

still

greater

than

10

amps,

continue

to

run

engine

until

this

figure

is

reached.

Then

compare

the

voltmeter

reading

with

the

appropriate

setting

limits,

as

specified

for

the

particular

control

unit

as

follows.

12 V (37423)/(37449)
24 V

(37444)/(37502)

12 V (37429)

13.9 - 14.3

volts

27.9 - 28.3

volts

13.7

-14.1

volts

(Part

no.

marked

on

upper

edge

of

the

moulded

cover

of

Control

Unit).

If

reading

obtained

is stable

but

outside the

appropriate

limits

the

unit can be adjusted as follows.

ADJUSTMENT

OF VOLTAGE SETTING

Stop

the

engine

and

remove the

control

unit from its

mounting.

At

the

back

of the unit is a sealed potentio-

meter

adjuster.

Carefully

scrape away the sealing com-

pound. Then start

the

engine, and

while

running the

alternator

at

charging

speed, turn the

adjuster

slot

-
CLOCKWISE to INCREASE the setting or ANTI-
CLOCKWISE to DECREASE it - until the required set-
ting

is obtained.

Recheck

the

setting

by stopping the engine, then

start

again

and slowly

"run-up"

to

charging

speed.

If

set-

ting

is

now

correct,

remount the

control

unit, dis-

connect

test meters and restore

original

wiring

con-

nections.

If,

after

adjustment, the

voltmeter

reading re-

mains

unchanged,

or

increases in an

uncontrolled

manner, then the

control

unit is faulty and a replace-

ment

must be fitted.

TEST 4

Check Alternator Output

Disconnect

battery earth cable,

and

connect

test

ammeter

between the

alternator

main terminal and

disconnected

cables. Reconnect battery earth cable,

and

switch

on the

vehicles

full

electrical

load and

leave

on

for 3 or

4 minutes. Leave load on and

start

engine

and

run

at

approximately

2000

rev/min.

The

alternator

output

should

balance

the load, and at the

same time

show a charge

to the battery.

Check

Warning

Ught

Control

If

warning

light

does

not

function

either

by remaining

"on"

or

"off",

but

the system is

charging

satisfactorily,

connect

voltmeter

between the

alternator

"AL"

terminal

and

earth. Reading

should

be

7.0-7.5

max (12

volt

alternator)

or

14.0-15.0

(24

volt

alternator).

Con-

nect

leads 'E'

and

'WL' together.

If

warning

lamp

lights

the

warning

light

control

is faulty

and

should

be re-

placed.

5.

faun

Diagnosis

Procedure

for

11

AC

Alternator Fails to Charge

(a)

Check

driving

belt

for

correct

tension

and wear.

(b)

Apply

Tests 1

and

2.

ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT

-Q.3

Low-Unsteady Charging Rate

(a)

Check

driving belt

for

correct

tension

and

wear.

(b)

Check

for

high

resistance

at

battery

terminals

and in the

circuit

wiring

and

connection.

(c)

Check

all

connections

made

to

earth.

(d)

Apply

Test

2.

Flat Battery or Low State

01

Charge

(a)

CHECK

condition

of

battery

with

hydrometer

and

high rate

discharge

tester.

(b)

Check

driving

belt

for

correct

tension

and

wear.

(c)

Check

that the field

isolating

relay

contacts

open

when

master

switch

is off,

otherwise

battery

will

discharge

through

rotor

winding.

(d)

Check

that flat

or

low

battery

is

not

caused

by

insufficient

alternator

output

caused by

abnormal

electrical

loads

by

applying

Test

4.

Excessive Charge Rate

to

a Fully Charged Battery

(a)

Apply

Test

3.

Noisy Alternator

(a)

Alternator

loose

in

mounting

brackets.

(b)

Worn

frayed

or

loose

drive

belt.

(c)

Worn

bearings,

fully

out

of

alignment.

(d)

Rotor

damage

or

pulley

fan loose on shaft.

(e)

Open

circuited,

or

short

circuited

rectified

diodes,

or

stator

winding

open-circuit.

(f)

Loose

pulley.

6.

Testing

the

15ACR and 17ACR

Alternator

in

Position

First

check

the

driving

belt

for

condition

and tension.

The

nominal

hot

outputs

at

6,000

rev/min

(alternator

speed)

are

28

amps

and

36 amps

for

15ACR and

17

ACR

alternator

respectively.

These figures may be

exceeded

slightly

when

the

alternator

is running cold.

To

avoid

misleading

results,

the

following

test pro-

cedure

should

therefore

be

carried

out

with

the alter-

nator

running

as

near

as

possible

to

its

normal

opera-

ting

temperature.

ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT

-Q.4

Alternator Output Test with Regulator

Inoperative

Withdraw

the

two-part

connector

from the alternator,

remove the

moulded

cover

(secured by

two

screws)

and

link

together

regulator

terminals 'F' and

'-'.

Connect

an

external

test

circuit

to the

alternator

output

terminals

as

shown

in Fig. Q.1.

B +

+

INO

'--------iAI------.

0)

CD

~--------iVI_------_1I

01

1.

12

volt

2.2

watt

Bu

Ib

2. 0-40

or

0-60

Ammeter

3.

12

volt

Battery

4. 0-20

Voltmeter

5.

0-15

ohm

35 amp

Variable

Resistor

Observe

carefully

the

polarity

ot

battery

and

alternator

terminals -reversed

connections

will

damage

the

alternator

diodes.

The

variable

resistor

across

the

battery

terminals

must

not

be left

connected

for

longer

than

is

necessary

to

carry

out the

following

test.

Start

the

engine.

At

1,500

rev/min

(alternator

speed),

the

test

circuit

bulb

should

be

extinguished.

Increase

engine

speed

until

the

alternator

is running

at

6,000

rev/min

approximately,

and

adjust

the

variable

resist-

ance

until

the

voltmeter

reads 14.0 volts. The

ammeter

reading

should then be

approximately

equal

to

the

rated

output

(See

previous

paragraph).

Any

appreci-

able

deviation from

this

figure

will

necessitate

the

alternator

being removed from the

engine

for

further

examination.
Failure

of

one

or

more

of

the

diodes

will be

indicated

in

the

above test by effect on

alternator

output,

and

also

in some instances by

abnormally

high

alternator

temperature

and

noise

level.

Regulator Test

The

following

test assumes

the

alternator

to

have been

tested and found satisfactory.
Disconnect

the variable

resistor

and

remove

the

link

bridging

regulator

terminals

'F'

and

'-'.

With the

remainder

of

the

test

circuit

connected

as

for

the

alternator

output test,

start

the

engine

and

again

run the

alternator

up

to

6,000

rev/min

until

the

ammeter

shows an output

current

of less

than

10

amperes.

The

voltmeter

should then

give a reading

of

14.0 - 14.4

volts. Any

appreciable

deviation

from

this

(regulating)

voltage

means that the

regulator

is

not

functioning

properly

and must be replaced.

If the

foregoing

tests

show

the

alternator

and

regulator

to be

satisfactorily

performing,

disconnect

the

test

cir-

cuit

and

reconnect

the

alternator

terminal

connector.

Now

connect

a low-range

voltmeter

between

the posi-

tive

terminal

of

the

alternator

(the

moulded

terminal

connector

is open-ended

to

faciltate

this)

and

the

posi-

tive

terminal

of

the battery.

Switch

on

battery

load

(headlights

etc.),

start

the

engine

and

increase

speed

until

the

alternator

runs

at

approximately

6,000

rev/min.

Note the

voltmeter

reading.

Transfer

the

voltmeter

connections

to

the

negative

terminals

of

alternator

and battery

and

again

note

the

meter reading.

If

the

reading

exceeds

0.5

volt

on

the

positive

side

or

0.25

volt

on the negative side, there is a

high

resistance

in the

charging

circuit

which

must be

traced

and

remedied.

DYNAMO

The

following

information

in

concerned

with

the

Lucas

C40-1

model.

Should

information

be

required

in con-

nection

with

any

other

type

of

dynamo

then

the rele-

vant

manufacturer

should

be

contacted.

The

C40-1

is of

extruded

yoke

construction

and is a

ventilated

type.

Holes

in each

end

bracket

allow

a

pulley

mounted fan to

draw

cooling

air

through

the

dynamo.

Description

It is a shunt wound,

two

pole,

two

brush

machine

designed

to

work

in

conjunction

with a compensated

voltage

control

regulator

unit. A ball bearing

supports

the

armature

at the

driving

end and a porous bronze

bush

at

the rear

supports

the

commutator

end.

The

output

of the

dynamo

is

controlled

by the

regulator

unit

and

is

dependent

on the state

of

charge

of

the

battery

and the

loading

of the

electrical

equipment

in

use. When the

battery

is in a

low

state of charge,

the

dynamo

gives a

high

output,

whereas

if the battery is

fully

charged, the

dynamo

gives

only

sufficient

output

to

keep

the

battery

in

good

condition

without

any

possibility

of

overcharging.

An increase in

output

is

given

to

balance

the

current

taken

by lamps and

other

accessories

when in use.

When fitting a

new

control

box, it is

important

to

use

only

an

authorised

replacement. An

incorrect

replace-

ment

can

result

in

damage

to

the

dynamo.

2. Routine Maintenance
(a)

Lubrication

Every 4,000

miles

(6,000

km)

or

150

running

hours,

inject a few

drops

of

high

quality

S.A.E.30

engine

oil

into

the

hole

marked

"OIL"

at

the

commutator

end

bearing

housing

(Refer

to

Fig.

Q.2).

(b)

Inspection of Brushgear

Every 72,000

miles

(108,000

km)

or

2,700

running

hours,

the

dynamo

should

be removed

from

the

engine

and

the

bushgear

inspected

by a

competent

electrician.

(

C)

Belt Adjustment

Every 4.000

miles

(6.000

km)

or

150

running

hours. in-

spect

the

dynamo

driving

belt, and

if

necessary.

adjust

to

take

up anv

slackness

by

turning

the

dynamo

on its

mounting.

Care

should

be

taken

to

avoid

overtightening

the belt

(see

Page

M.1).

3.

Performance Data

The

cutting

in

and

maximum

output

speeds

quoted

below

are

production

test

figures

and

refer

to

cold

machines

with

brushes

only

partly

bedded.

Model

C40-1.

Cutting-in

Speed.

1450

rev/min

(Max.)

at

13.0

dynamo

volts.

Maximum

Output.

22

amp

at

2250

rev/min

(Max.)

at

13.5

dynamo

volts

and a resistance

load

of

0.61 ohms.

Field

Restistance.

6.0 ohms.

4.

Servicing

Testing

in

Position

1.

Inspect

the

driving

belt

and

adjust

if

necessary.

(Refer

to

Page

M.1).

2.

Check

the

connection

on the

commutator

end

bracket.

The

larger

connector

carries

the main

dynamo

output, the

smaller

connector

the field

current.

3.

Switch

off all

lights

and

accessories,

take

off

the

cables

from

the

terminals

of

the

dynamo

and con-

nect

the

two

terminals

with a short

length

of

wire.

ELECTRICAL

EQUIPMENT

-Q.S

LUBRICATOR

IN

COMMUTATOR

END

BRACKET

FELT

RING

RETAIN

ER

INJECT

_-----\_..:::..:.

OIL

HERE

FELT

RING

POROUS

BRONZE

BUSH

02

4.

Start

the

engine

and

set

to

run

at

normal

idling

speed.

5.

Clip

the

negative

lead

of a moving

coil

type

volt-

meter,

(calibrated

0-20

volts)

to

one

dynamo

ter-

minal

and

the

positive

lead

to a good

earthing

point

on

the

yoke.

6.

Gradually

increase

the

engine

speed,

when

the

voltmeter

reading

should

rise

rapidly

and

without

fluctuation.

Do

not

allow

the

volt

meter

reading

to

reach

20 volts,

and

do

not

race

the

engine

in

an

attempt

to

increase

the

voltage.

It is

sufficient

to

run

the

dynamo

up

to a speed

of

1,000

rev/min.

If

the

voltage

does

not

rise

rapidly

and

without

fluctuation

the

unit

must

be

dismantled

for

internal

examination.

Excessive

sparking

at

the

commutator

in

the

above

test

indicates a defective

armature

which

should

be

replaced.

NOTE:

If a radio

suppression

capacitor

is

fitted

between

the

output

terminal

and

earth,

disconnect

this

capacitor

and

re-test

the

dynamo

before

dismantling.

If a

reading

is

now

given

on

the

voltmeter,

then

the

capacitor

is

defective

and

must

be

replaced.

If

the

dynamo

is in

good

order,

MODEL

C40~1

GENERATOR. DISMANTLED

OUTPUT

'TERM I

""'L

'D'

03

POROUS

BRONZE

BUSH

BOLTS

flSRE

THRUST

WASHER

YOKE

RETAINING

PLATE.

SHAFT

COLLAR

CUP

FELT

RING

SHAn

KEY

ORIVE

END

BRACKET

SHAFT

NlfT

PULLEY

SPACER

ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT

-0.6

remove

the

link

from

between

the

terminals

and

restore

the

orig

inal

connections.

STARTER MOTORS
General

The

following

information

is

concerned

with

the

M45G

starter

motor.

Two

types

of

drive

are

available

and

both

are

covered

fully

in

the

following

section.

Should

in-

formation

be

required

in

connection

with

any

other

type

of

starter

motor

then

the

relevant

manufacturer

should

be

contacted.

STARTER MOTORS
Run-off Helix Drive (See Fig.

0.4)

1.

Description-Model

M45G Type

RF

17

This

electric

starter

motor

is a

four-pole

four-brush

machine

having

an

extended

shaft

which

carries

the

engagement

gear,

or

starter

drive

as

it

is

more

generally

known.

The

starter

motor

is

of a similar

construction

to

the

dynamo

except

that

heavier

copper

wire

is used in

the

construction

of

the

armature

and

field

coils.

The

field

coils

are

series-parallel

connected

between

the

field

terminal

and

the

insulated

pair

of

brushes.

The

armature

has 23

winding

slots.

The

drive

portion

incorporates

a

special

overload

protective

device

known

as

the

Run-off

Helix.

2. Routine Maintenance

(a)

The

starter

motor

requires

no

routine

maintenance

beyond

the

occasional

inspection

of

the

electrical

connection

which

must

be

clean

and

tight,

the

brush

gear,

and

the

commutator.

(b)

After

the

starter

motor

has

been

in

service

for

some

time

remove

the

starter

motor

from

the

engine

and

submit

it

to a thorough

bench

in-

spection.

1.

Check

that

the

brushes

move

freely

in

their

holders

by

holding

back

the

brush

springs

and

pulling

05

BRUSH

gently

on

the

flexible

connectors

(Refer

to

Fig.

0.5).

If

movement

is

sluggish,

remove

the

brush

from

its

holder

and

clean

its

sides

with a fluffless

petrol

moistened

cloth.

Replace

the

brush

in

its

original

position.

Brushes

which

are

worn

to

less

than

9/16

in

(14

mm)

long

must

be

renewed.

NOTE:

This

is

the

length

when

half

the

available

wearing

length

has

worn

away.

The

time

taken

to

reach

this

stage

normally

extends

well

beyond

that

to

reach

the

point

of

major

engine

overhaul.

After

this

time,

the

rate

of

wear

accelerates

due

to

re-

ducing

spring

pressure.

2.

Check

the

tension

of

the

brush

springs

using

a

spring

scale.

(Refer

to

Fig.

0.6).

The

minimum

tension

is 43

ozf

(0,61

kgf).

New

springs

should

be

fitted

if

the

tension

is low.

MODEL

M45G

TYPE RF

17

BRUSHES

COMMUTATOR END COVER BAND COVER BAND

BRACKET

NUT

SEARING

BUSH

04

FIXED

SLEEVE

PINION RESTRAINING SPRING

FIELD

COILS

THRUST WASHERS

DRIVE END

BRACKET

....... ,

..

j I

BEARING BUSH

~

PINION &

SLEEVE

MAIN SPRING SHAFT

NUT

NOTE:

This

is

applicable

to a brush

when half the

available

wearing

length

has been

worn

away.

3.

The

commutator

must

be

clean

and

have a

polished

appearance.

If

necessary,

clean

It by

pressing

a

fine

dry

cloth

agaiinst

it

whilst

the

armature

is

turned

by

hand.

If

the

commutator

is very

dirty,

moisten

the

cloth

with

petrol.

4.

Keep

all

the

electrical

connections

clean

and

tight.

06

Any

which

have

become

dirty

should

be

cleaned

and

the

contacting

surfaces

lightly

smeared

with

petroleum

jelly.

3.

Servicing

(a)

Testing

in

Position

If

the

starter

motor

does

not

operate

or

fails

to

crank

the

engine

when

the

starting

button

is used,

switch

on

the

head

lamps.

When

these

are

not

fitted

connect

a

good

quality

0-20

voltmeter

across

the

battery

ter-

minals,

operate

the

starter

button

and

watch

for

the

following

symptoms:

1.

The

headlamps

dim

(or

the

voltmeter

reading

falls

appreciably)

but

the

motor

does

not

crank

the
engine.
This

may

be

caused

by

the

starter

drive

pinion

being

jammed

in

mesh

with

the

engine

flywheel.

The

pinion

can

usually

be

freed

by

engaging a low

gear

and

gently

rocking

the

engine.

It is

advisable

to

remove

the

starter

motor

from

the

engine

and

inspect

the

starter

drive

as

described

later

in

this
section.
Sluggish

action

of

the

starter

motor

may

be

due

to

a

discharged

battery,

check

this

by

disconnecting

the

existing

cables

and

reconnecting

the

motor

to

a

battery

known

to

be

fully

charged.

If

the

starter

motor

now

functions

normally

then

the

battery

must

be

examined.

Should

the

starter

motor

still

not

function

normally

then

it

should

be

removed

from

the

engine

and

examined.

2.

The

head

lamps

do

not

dim

(or

the

voltmeter

read-

ing

remain

unaffected)

and

the

motor

does

not

crank

the

engine.

ELECTRICAL

EQUIPMENT-Q.7

Check

first

that

the

circuit

up

to

the

supply

ter-

minal

on

the

starter

motor

is in

order.

If no

voltage

is

indicated.

check

the

circuit

from

the

battery

to

the

motor

via

the

starter

switch.

Ensure

that

all

the

connections

are

clean

and

tight. If

the

switch

is

found

to

be

faulty

fit

a ser-

viceable

replacement.

A

normal

voltage

supply

reaching

the

starter

motor

terminal

indicates

that

the

starter

motor

has

an

in-

ternal

fault

and

must

be

removed

for

examination.

If

the

starter

motor

operates

but

does

not

crank

the

engine,

the

starier

drive

may

require

cleaning

or

may

have

developed

some

other

fault.

In

either

case

the

starter

motor

requires

removal

from

the

engine

for a full

examination.

"S'

TYPE STARTER DRIVE ASSEMBLY

(a)

Operation

This

drive

incorporates a protective

feature

known

as

the

'Run-off

Helix'.

The

purpose

of

this

feature

is

to

prevent

possible

damage

occuring

to

the

starter

motor

through

excessive

torque

being

applied

while

the

pinion

is in

engagement,

as

would

arise

for

example

in

the

event

of

an

engine

back-fire

during

starting.

Under

normal

conditions

of

engagement,

axial

move-

ment

of

the

pinion

is

arrested

when,

in th'3

one

direc-

tion,

the

first

cup

washer

has

fully

compressed

the

re-

straining

spring

and

is

abutted

hard

against

the

second

cup

washer

and,

in

the

opposite

direction,

the

helically

screwed

sleeve

is

pressing

the

thrust

washer

hard

against

the

main

spring.

In

the

'Run-off

Helix'

drive,

the

main

spring

is

capable

of

greater

compression

than

is

the

equivalent

stan-

dard

's'

pattern

drive

spring.

In

addition,

the

trailing

faces

of

the

pinion

and

helically

screwed

sleeve

are

machined

to

form

indented

rachet

recesses.

In

the

event

of a back-fire

occuring

during

starting,

the

pinion

(being

able

to

rotate

but

incapable

of

fur-

ther

axial

movement)

forces

the

heiically

screwed

sleeve

along

the

straight-splines

of

the

starter

shaft.

This

further

compresses

the

main

spring

and

permits

axial

movement

of

the

screwed

sleeve

to

continue

until

it is

clear

of

the

interior

of

the

pinion.

At

this

stage,

axial

movement

of

the

screwed

sleeve

ceases

and

the

pinion,

now

jointly

supported

by

the

fixed

sleeve

and

the

recessed

end

of

the

screwed

sleeve, is

free

to

be

rotated

by

the

engine

ring

gear.

In

this

way,

excessive

torque

is

harmlessly

dissipated

by

the

ratchetting

action

of

the

pinion

and

screwed

sleeve

against

the

reaction

pressure

of

the

main

spring.

The

operation

of a 'Run-off

Helix'

drive

can

be

checked

by

securing

the

armature

and

drive

assembly

in a

vice

(using

wooden

vice-clamps)

and

applying a torque

wrench

to

the

pinion.

The

rachet

action

must

occur

at

a

torque

of

not

less

than

36

Ibf

ft

(5

kgf

m).

(b)

Routine Maintenance

If

any

difficulty

is

experienced

with

the

starter

motor

not

meshing

correctly

with

the

flywheel,

it

may be

that

the

drive

requires

cleaning.

The

pinion

should

move

freely

on

the

screwed

sleeve;

if

there

is

any

dirty

or

other

foreign

matter

on

the

sleeve

it

must

be

washed

off

with

paraffin.

ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT

-0.8

STARTER

MOTOR-PRE·ENGAGED

DRIVE

(See

Fig.

0.7)

1.

Description-Model

M45G or 2M113 with

Model 7S Solenoid.

This

starter

motor

is a four-pole, four-brush earth re-

turn

machine

with

series-parallel

connected

field

coils.

A

solenoid-operated

pre-engaged

drive

assembly

is

carried

on an

extension

of

the

armature

shaft.

The main feature;"

of

this type

of

drive

are as follows:

(a)

Positive

pinion

engagement

preventi,ng the

pinion

being

thrown

out

of mesh

whilst

starting.

(b)

Dual-purpose

plate

clutch

incorporated

in

the

drive

assembly

giving

over-speed and over-load

protec-

tion.

(c)

Self-indexing

pinion

to

ensure

smooth

engagement

between

the

pinion

and the flywheel teeth

before

the

starter

motor

begins

to

rotate.

(d)

Armature

braking

system

to

ensure rapid return

to

rest when

the

starter

button

is released.

2.

Routine Maintenance

(a)

The

starter

motor

requires no

routine

maintenance

beyond

the

occasional

inspection

of the

electrical

connection

which

must be

clean

and tight,

the

brush gear, and the

commutator.

(b)

After

the

starter

motor

has been in

service

for

some

time, remove the

starter

motor

from

the

engine

and

submit

it to a

thorough

bench

inspec-

tion.

1. Brush

wear

(this

is a

fair

indication

of

the

amount

of

work

done).

Renew brushes

worn

to,

or

ap-

proaching,

5/16

in (7,9

mm)

in length.

2.

Brush

spring

tension.

Correct

tension

is 30 - 40

ozf

(0,85-1,13

kgf).

Renew

springs

if

tension

has

dropper

below

25 ozf (0,71

kgf).

3.

Skim

commutator

if it is

pitted

or

badly worn.

COPPE.R

SOLENO

10

LI~

UNIT

~b

4.

Check

bearings

for

excessive

side

play

of

arma-

ture shaft.

5.

Check

pinion

movement.

6.

Clean and

lubricate

the

indented

bearing

inside

the pinion sleeve

using a bentonite

based

grease

for this purpose.

7.

Clean and

lubricate

the

indented

bronze

bearing

in

the

intermediate

bracket.

Use

Ragosine

'Molypad'

Molybdenised

non-creep

oil

for

this

purpose.

3. Servicing

(a)

Testing

in

Position

Switch

on

the

lamps. If

the

vehicle

is

not

equipped

with

lighting, then

connect

a 0-20

voltmeter

across

the

battery

terminals

before

proceeding.

Operate

the

starter

control

and

watch

for

the

following

symptoms:-

The lamps

dim

or

voltmeter

rearling

drops

to

about

6 volts. and

the

motor

does

not

crank

the

engine.

Check battery

(must

be at

least

half-charged)

and

battery lugs,

(clean

and a

good

earth

connection).

Check by hand that

engine

turns

freely.

2.

The lamps

do

not

dim,

the

voltmeter

reading

re-

mains

steady

at

about

12 volts,

and

the

motor

does

not

crank

the

engine.

Connect

voltmeter

from

solenoid

terminal

'BAT',

and

starter

yoke,

operate

starter:-

No

volts

indicated

(a)

Poor

lug

connections

at

battery.

(b)

Bad earth

connection.

(c)

Broken

starter

lead,

battery

to

starter.

Full

volts

i.e., 12-14

volts

indicated.

(a)

Faulty

solenoid

switch.

(b)

Open

circuit

in

starter-check

brushes.

ENGAGEMENT

LEvER

: \

I

RETAiN!NG

RING

ECCENTR

Ie

PIVOT

PIN

DRIvE

EN'O

BRACKET

BEARING

BUSH

~~~~¥~~~~~=iiiiiiiiiilINTER.MEOIATE

BRACKET

~

BEARING

BUSH

COMMUTATOR END

BRACKET

Q7

ARMATURE

CHECKING GLOW

PLUGS

'A'

From

'Heater'

Switch

Glow

Plugs

Positive

Term.

of

Battery

.."y"

or

other

supply

Test

Lamp

with

12v.

Automotive

lamp

of

low

wattage.l6w.)

x

'B'®-~II'

Engine Mass

Where glow plugs are used

as

a starting aid, the bus
bar connecting the four plugs is electrically energised
when the equipment is used.

As this bus bar is not insulated, extreme care must
be exercised in

as

much as all pipes, clips and other

metal objects must be kept well clear.
The consequences of a direct short of this bus bar

to earth when energised are obvious.

On early engines

the

glow

plugs are

screwed

into

adaptors

which

are

fitted

to

the

cylinder

head. On

later engines

the

adaptors

are

removed

and

glow

plugs are

screwed

directly

into

the

cylinder

head. The

latest

engines

have

the

holes in

the

cylinder

head

for

the

tip

of

the

glow

plugs increased

to

accept

glow

plugs

with

a larger

tip

diameter.

4.108

Series

Workshop

Manual,

June

1986

ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT

-Q.9

To

Check

for

Continuity of Glow Plugs

(a) Remove leads

from

glow

plugs.

(b)

Connect

test

lamp (A) as

shown,

to

live

(+

VEl

terminal.

(c)

Check operation of lamp by earthing end

(X)

to

engine head .

(d)

Connect test point

"X"

to

each glow plug terminal
in turn, lamp will light on 'good' glow plugs and
will not light on open

circuit

(faulty)

glow

plugs.

To

Check Supply

to

Glow

Plugs

Connect test lamp

(B)

between point

'd'

and earth

(engine mass).

When heater switch is operated the lamp should light.

Checking Glow

Plus

Using a Voltmeter

1.

Disconnect glow plug interconnecting links and
main feed wire.

2.

To check each glow plug individually connect a
30-0-30 ammeter in series with main feed cable
and

glow

plug terminal.

3.

Connect a

0-20

voltmeter from Glow Plug terminal

to earth.

4.

Press heater button and observe ammeter and
voltmeter readings. A current of about 9 amps will
be seen when the voltage is in the region of

11

to

12

volts. Energise plugs

for

about

20

to

30

seconds.

5.

If the reading is low,

or

non existent, plug should

be replaced.

6.

If no volt-meter reading is observed, a defective

feed cable

or

switch is the probable cause.

SECTION R

Engines for Refrigeration Units

4.108 engines supplied for the driving of refrigeration

units are

similar

to those engines described

in

this

4.108 workshop manual and

in

the main, can

be

ser-
viced in accordance with the instructions given in this
publication. The following differences should however,
be

noted:-

Cold Starting Procedure (Refer Figs. R.1, R.2)

Glow plugs are fitted in the cylinder head to assist
starting under cold conditions (see Page C.2).

On early engines

the

glowplugs

are

screwed

into

adaptors

which

are

fitted

to

the

cylinder

head. Later

engines

have

the

glowplugs

screwed

directly

into

the

cylinder

head. For

further

information

refer

to

page

09.

Cylinder Liners

The cylinder liners fitted to 4.108 refrigeration unit

engines can be rebored

0.020 in

(0,51

mm) oversize

to the standard bore dimensions given on Page 8.3.

Lubricating System

Due

to the fact that the lubricating oil sump

capacity

has been increased to 28 pints and a much

larger

full

flow lubricating oil filter is used, also the

addition

of a

by-pass lubricating oil filter, the lubricating

oil

and

filter element change period is extended

to

1,000 hours.

Fuel System

A mechanically

governed

fuel

injection

pump

is

fitted.

The fuel

pump

rotor

timing

letter

is

"C",

No.1

outlet

is

Wand

static

timing

is 210 B.T.D.C.

or

0.150

in

(3,81mm)

displacement

B.T.D.C.

Two

timing

holes are

provided

in

the

rear

of

the

crankshaft

pulley,

which

when

engaged

with

the

timing

pin,

denote

T.D.C.

and 210 B.T.D.C.

(static

timing

point).

When

this

method

of

timing

the

fuel

injection

pump

is

used, ensure

that

the

fuel

pump

circiip

is

correctly

set. For

how

to

set

the

circiip,

refer

to

the

first

part

of

"Alternative

method

where

no

tool

is

available,"

page

N.7.

COMBUSTION
CHAM

GLOW PLUG ADAPTOR

---;

R1

.+

(

,

__

.

,---I

----J{

._.J

4.108

Series

Workshop

Manual,

June

1986

GLOW PLUG

ENGINES

FOR

REFRIGERATION

UNITS-R.2

R2

General

The following

major

differences between the standard

4.108 vehicle engine and the 4.108 refrigeration unit
engine may be

of

interest:-

Crankshaft

Cylinder head

Piston ring,

top

Piston ring,
2nd and 3rd
Piston ring, 4th
Piston ring, 5th
Piston

Inlet valve seal
Exhaust valve seal

Valve spring

inner

Fuel pump

Lubricating

oil

system

4.108(V)

Tufftrided
No

glow

plug bosses

Plain cast iron

Internally
stepped
Cords
Maxigroove

Narrow 4th
groove for cords
rings
Fitted
None fitted

Fitted
Hydraulically
governed D.P.A.

4.108

for
Refrigeration
Units

Non-tufftrided
Glow plugs in
combustion
chambers
Chrome plated

o.
Chrome Inserted
internally
stepped

Microland
Microland

or

spring loaded
Wide 4th groove
for Microland
ring
Fitted

Fitted

None fitted

Mechanically

governed D.P.A.

Much increased

oil and filter

capacity as
detailed on
previous page