A.O. Smith GPVT 40, GPVT 50, GPVL-40, GPVT-40 LP, GPVL-50 LP Technical Documents

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Service Handbook

RESIDENTIAL GAS WATER HEATERS

POWER VENTED GAS MODELS

WITH HOT SURFACE IGNITION

NOT FOR USE IN MANUFACTURED (MOBILE) HOMES

TABLE OF CONTENTS

GENERAL INFORMATION 2 CHECKING THE GAS SUPPLY PRESSURE 3 LEAKAGE CHECKPOINTS 4 TEMPERATURE ADJUSTMENT 5 ANODE ROD REMOVAL/REPLACEMENT 6 DIP TUBE REMOVAL/REPLACEMENT 7 DOOR-BURNER ASSEMBLY REMOVAL/ REPLACEMENT 8 FLAME SENSOR AND IGNITER REMOVAL/ REPLACEMENT 10 BURNER AND ORIFICE REMOVAL/ REPLACEMENT 12 DOOR GASKET REPLACEMENT 16 CONTROL MODULE REMOVAL/REPLACEMENT 18 VALVE MODULE REMOVAL/REPLACEMENT 20 TEMPERATURE SENSOR AND CABLE REMOVAL/ REPLACEMENT 21 GAS VALVE REMOVAL/REPLACEMENT 22 BLOWER REMOVAL/REPLACEMENT 24 ROTATING THE BLOWER 25 PRESSURE SWITCH REMOVAL/REPLACEMENT 26 FV SENSOR 27 CLEANING THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER 28 CLEANING THE BLOWER 29 TECHNICAL BULLETINS 30 TROUBLESHOTING CHART 36

Note: References to the Manual refer to the “Installation and Operating Manual”.

1206 322153-000 Rev. 00

GENERAL INFORMATION

Draw efﬁ ciency is the quantity of hot water available to the

consumer before the outlet water temperature decreases by 25F° (14C°). A 40 gallon water heater will typically provide 70% (28 gallons) of this “usable” hot water (60% is the minimum). The burner or elements are allowed to operate during this test. Incoming, cold water mixes the remaining stored water below this 25F° (14C°) limitation.

Energy Factor is an indicator of the combined thermal efﬁ ciency and standby efﬁ ciency of a water heater. The higher the energy factor, the more efﬁ cient the water heater will be.

Minerals and gases will separate from water as temperature increases.

“R” Value is a measure of the resistance of a substance to heat ﬂ ow.

Recovery rate is the amount of water that is heated to a set temperature, per hour.

Standby efﬁ ciency is the water heater’s ability to contain heat in the tank. A minimum of tank water heat loss per hour is desired. e.g. temperature change/“R” value = Btu/h loss/square foot of tank surface

Temperature rise is the increase in the temperature from its coldest “inlet” water temperature to the desired hot (outlet) setting. Typically it is assumed that the entering water be 40°F (5°C), stored water desired to be 120°F (49°C) resulting in a “temperature rise” of 80F° (44C°).

Thermal efficiency is approximately the amount of generated BTU (British Thermal Units), which enters the water. A percentage of the total BTU passes out through the vent piping.

Water cannot (for all practical purposes) be compressed.

Water expands when it is heated.

Formulas and Conversions:

BTU (British Thermal Unit) is the heat required to raise 1 pound of water 1F° 1 BTU = 252 cal = 0.252 kcal 1 cal = 4.187 Joules BTU X 1.055 = Kilo Joules BTU divided by 3,413 = Kilowatts To convert from Fahrenheit to Centigrade: (°F – 32) times 5/9, or .556, equals degrees C. One gallon of (120°F, 49°C) water weighs approximately

8.25 pounds. Pounds X .45359 = Kilogram Gallons X 3.7854 = Liters % of Hot = (Mixed Temp. – Cold) divided by (Hot Temp. – Cold) % Thermal Efﬁ ciency = (GPH X 8.25 X Temp. Rise X 1.0) divided by BTU/H Input BTU Output = GPH X 8.25 X Temp. Rise X 1.0 GPH = (BTU/H Input X % Eff.) divided by (Temp. Rise X

8.25) One cubic foot of Natural Gas contains about 1000 BTU of heat. One “therm” is equal to 100,000 BTU One cubic foot of Propane Gas contains about 2500 BTU of heat. One gallon of Propane gas contains about 91,250 BTU of heat. One pound of Propane gas contains about 21,600 BTU of heat. One pound of gas pressure is equal to 27.7 inches water column pressure Inches of Water Column X .036091 = PSI Inches of Water Column X .073483 = Inches of Mercury (Hg.) Centimeters = Inches X 2.54 mm (millimeters) = Inches X 25.4 Meters = Inches X .0254 Doubling the diameter of a pipe will increase its ﬂ ow capacity (approximately) 5.3 times.

Construction: Tank is constructed of steel. The inside of the tank is constructed of a glass lining bonded to the steel. This prevents water to metal contact and rusting of the tank. An anode rod will be installed within the tank. The hex-head plug end of the anode is visible on the top of the water heater. This metal rod offers secondary protection of the tank against corrosion where the application of glass is not possible (threaded tank openings). These areas will have small areas of water to metal contact.

All water heaters will contain at least one thermostat (to operate the heater) and one high limit (to prevent water from overheating).

CHECKING THE GAS SUPPLY PRESSURE

Gas pressure checks are done with ﬂ owing gas using a gas pressure manometer capable of reading pressure in inches of water column. Supply gas pressure checks are measured before the gas control valve and as close to the water heater as possible. Manifold (main burner) gas pressure is measured at the pressure tap on the bottom of the gas control valve (see Figure 1). Use an allen wrench to remove the plug, then attach the gas gauge.

Note: Desired gas pressures will be noted on the gas valve label located on the gas control valve and rating plate.

IF THEN

Supply gas pressure is under desired pressure requirement

Supply gas pressure is over desired pressure

Manifold gas pressure is more than +/- .4 inch W.C. from values indicated on gas valve or rating plate

Increase supply gas

•

pressure regulator setting. Call the gas utility company

•

to readjust gas pressure on main supply. Technicians can not adjust main gas supply pressure.

Add gas pressure

•

regulator. Call the gas utility company

•

to readjust gas pressure on main supply. Technicians can not adjust main gas supply pressure.

Ensure there is adequate

•

supply gas pressure. Ensure the main burner

•

orifice is the correct size for the water heater model being tested. If the above tests have been

•

performed and the results were correct replace the gas control valve.

MANIFOLD (MAIN BURNER GAS PRESSURE

TAP). RE-INSTALL PLUG AFTER USE.

Figure 1

PRESSURE

MANOMETER

Important: After checking the manifold gas pressure, detach the gas gauge, reinstall the plug using insulation tape and tighten with allen wrench. Check for leaks and repair as required.

LEAKAGE CHECKPOINTS

A. Water at the blower assembly is water vapor which

has condensed out of the combustion products. This is caused by a problem in the vent or blockage in the drain coupling.

B. Condensation may be seen on pipes in humid weather

or pipe connections may be leaking. C. The anode rod ﬁ tting may be leaking. D. Small amounts of water from temperature-pressure

relief valve may be due to thermal expansion or high

water pressure in your area. E. *The temperature-pressure relief valve may be leaking

at the tank ﬁ tting. F. Water from a drain valve may be due to the valve being

slightly opened. G. The drain valve may be leaking at the tank ﬁ tting. H. Combustion products contain water vapor which can

condense on the cooler surfaces of the tank. Droplets

form and drip onto the burner. This is common at the

time of start-up after installation and when incoming

water is cold. I. Water in the water heater bottom or on the ﬂ oor may be

from condensation. DO NOT replace the water heater

until a full inspection of all possible water sources is

made and necessary corrective steps taken. J. Leakage from other appliances, water lines, or ground

seepage should also be checked.

* To check where threaded portion enters tank, insert

cotton swab between jacket opening and ﬁ tting. If cotton

is wet, follow draining instructions in the “Draining

and Flushing” section in the Manual and then remove

ﬁ tting. Put pipe dope or Teﬂ on® tape on the threads

and replace. When you are ﬁ nished, follow the steps

in “Filling the Water Heater” section in the Manual.

Figure 2

TEMPERATURE ADJUSTMENT

Safety Due to the nature of the typical gas water heater, the water temperature in certain situations may vary up to 30F° (16C°) higher or lower at the point of use such as bathtubs, showers, sink, etc.

HOT WATER CAN SCALD: Water heaters are intended to produce hot water. Water heated to a temperature which will satisfy space heating, clothes washing, dish washing, and other sanitizing needs can scald and permanently injure you upon contact. Some people are more likely to be permanently injured by hot water than others. These include the elderly, children, the inﬁ rm, or physically/ mentally handicapped. If anyone using hot water in your home ﬁ ts into one of these groups or if there is a local code or state law requiring certain temperature water at the hot water tap, then you must take special precautions.

In addition of using the lowest possible temperature setting that satisﬁ es your hot water needs, a means such as a mixing valve should be used at the hot water taps used by these people or at the water heater. Mixing valves are available at plumbing supply or hardware stores. Follow manufacturer’s instructions for installation of the valves. Using the lowest hot water temperature that meets your needs will also provide the most energy efﬁ cient operation of the water heater.

Never allow small children to use a hot water tap, or to draw their own bath water. Never leave a child or handicapped person unattended in a bathtub or shower.

Note: A water temperature range of 120°F-140°F (49°C-60°C) is recommended by most dishwasher manufacturers.

Settings Temperature range on residential gas water heater is from 110°F ±10° to 155°F ±10° and a 70°F vacation setting. The T&P valve will open at 195°F ± 10°. The water heater temperature adjusting dial (see Figure

3) was factory set at the lowest temperature; all the way counter-clockwise to the mechanical stop, unless speciﬁ ed differently by provincial or state regulations. It is adjustable and must be reset to the desired temperature setting to reduce the risk of scald injury. Turning the dial clockwise will increase the temperature and counter-clockwise will reduce the temperature. The HOT marking on the Honeywell gas valve is indicative of approximately 120°F (49°C) and is the preferred starting point. Some states have a requirement for a lower setting. Should overheating occur or the gas supply fails to shut off, turn “OFF” the manual gas control valve to the water heater.

temperatures at the point of use to exceed the thermostat setting by up to 30F° (16C°). If you experience this type of use, you should consider using lower temperature settings to reduce scald hazards. Listed below is time-to-burn relationship for normal adult skin.

Figure 3

Temperature

Setting

VERY HOT 155 (68) Less than 1 second

C 150 (65) About 1.5 seconds

B 140 (60) Less than 5 seconds

A 130 (54) More than 30 seconds

HOT 120 (49) More than 5 minutes

LOW 110 (43) Normal shower temp

VAC 70 (21) N/A

Approximate Temperature

°F (°C)

Table 1

Time to reduce a 2nd

and 3rd Degree burn

to adult skin

The following table lists the approximate water temperatures produced by various dial settings. Short repeated heating cycles caused by small hot water uses can cause

ANODE ROD REMOVAL/REPLACEMENT

ANODE ROD

Important: Use only factory authorized replacement parts.

If you lack the necessary skills to properly perform the installation, you should not proceed, but get help from a qualiﬁ ed service technician. Tools required:

•

Ratchet with 1-1/16” Socket

•

Pliers

•

Te ﬂ on

Tape or an approved pipe sealant

Removing Anode Rod:

Set the gas control valve/thermostat to its lowest

setting by turning the knob counter-clockwise to the VAC point (see Figure 3). Turn gas control switch to the “OFF” position and turn

“OFF” the gas supply to the unit (see Figure 3). Disconnect the electrical power to the water heater

from the wall outlet. Shut off the incoming water supply to the water heater

and open a nearby hot-water faucet to depressurize the water tank. Connect a hose to the drain valve and terminate it to

adequate drain or to the exterior of the building. Open the drain valve and allow at least 5 gallons of water to drain from the tank. Close drain and remove hose. Remove and retain the anode cap on top of the heater

and remove and retain just enough insulation so you can access to the anode head (see Figure 4). Keep in a safe place for reinstallation later. Remove the anode rod by using a ratchet and a 1-1/16”

socket turning counter-clockwise (see Figure 4).

Installing Anode Rod:

Use Teﬂ on

tape or an approved pipe sealant on

threads of the new anode rod.

Place the anode rod in the spud (top of the tank) and turn clockwise until the threads are hand tight. Using a ratchet and 1-1/16” socket tighten down water tight.

Turn the main water supply back on.

Open a nearby hot-water faucet to purge air from the water line. Fill water heater tank completely (Note: To assure the water heater tank is full, keep the hot-water faucet open for 3 minutes after a constant ﬂ ow of water is obtained).

After turning off the hot-water faucet, check for water leaks around anode rod and immediately correct any if found.

Reinstall the insulation and anode cap which were removed in step 6 above.

Reconnect the electrical power to the water heater in the wall outlet and turn the main gas supply back “ON” to the gas control valve/thermostat.

Turn the gas control switch to the “ON” position (see Figure 3).

To restart the water heater, follow the directions on the “Lighting and Operating Instructions” label located on the front of the water heater near the gas control valve/thermostat.

CAP

* THE ANODE ROD IS COVERED BY URETHANE FOAM LOCATED

UNDER THE CAP. CHIP AWAY

THE FOAM TO EXPOSE THE

TOP OF THE ANODE ROD

Figure 4

ANODE ROD *

DIP TUBE REMOVAL/REPLACEMENT

DIP TUBE

Important: Use only factory authorized replacement parts.

If you lack the necessary skills to properly perform the installation, you should not proceed, but get help from a qualiﬁ ed service technician. Tools required:

•

18” Pipe wrench

•

Piping and soldering equipment

•

Te ﬂ on

Removing Dip Tube:

Tape or an approved pipe sealant

Set the gas control valve/thermostat to its lowest setting by turning the knob counter-clockwise to the VAC point (see Figure 3). Turn gas control switch to the “OFF” position and turn “OFF” the gas supply to the unit (see Figure 3). Disconnect the electrical power to the water heater from the wall outlet. Shut off the incoming water supply to the water heater and open a nearby hot-water faucet to depressurize the water tank. Remove pipe insulation from cold inlet piping. Connect a hose to the drain valve and terminate it to adequate drain or to the exterior of the building. Open the drain valve and allow at least 5 gallons of water to drain from the tank. Close drain and remove hose. Remove the inlet water piping connected to the cold inlet of the water heater (see Figures 5 & 6). Some installations will have a union connection, others will have the supply piping soldered to an adapter that connects to the nipple on the water heater. Using the pipe wrench remove the piping from the top of the tank. With the piping removed, use the pipe wrench on the exposed nipple directly to remove it from the heater. Note: Sometimes the dip tube will come out with the piping in one piece. Separate accordingly.

After turning off the hot-water faucet, check for water leaks around dip tube and immediately correct any if found.

Reinstall the pipe insulation removed in step 4 removal process.

Reconnect the electrical power to the water heater in the wall outlet and turn the gas supply back “ON” to the gas control valve/thermostat.

Turn the gas control switch to the “ON” position (see Figure 3).

10.

To restart the water heater, follow the directions on the “Lighting and Operating Instructions” label located on the front of the water heater near the gas control valve/thermostat.

NIPPLE/DIP

TUBE

Figure 5

Installing Dip Tube:

Use Teﬂ on® tape or an approved pipe sealant on

1. threads of the new dip tube. Place the dip tube into the spud on top of the tank

HOT-WATER

OUTLET

UNION

SHUT-OFF VALVE

UNION

COLD-

WATER

INLET

and turn clockwise until tight. Using the pipe wrench continue to tighten until the joint is water tight. Note: Do not clamp the pipe wrench jaws on the threaded portion of the nipple and do not over tighten. This can cause the threads to distort and can result in a leak. Apply Teﬂ on® tape or pipe sealant on the top threads

3. and reconnect the water piping (see Figure 6). Turn the main water supply back on.

4. Open a nearby hot-water faucet to purge air from the

5. water line. Fill water heater tank completely (Note: To assure the water heater tank is full, keep the hot-water

3/4” SWEAT

FITTING

BLOWER

ASSEMBLY

COMPONENTS

NOT SHOWN

FOR CLARITY.

3/4” SWEAT

FITTING

NIPPLE/DIP

TUBE

TEMPERATUREPRESSURE RELIEF VALVE

Figure 6

faucet open for 3 minutes after a constant ﬂ ow of water is obtained).

DOOR-BURNER ASSEMBLY REMOVAL/REPLACEMENT

INNER DOOR/MANIFOLD/BURNER ASSEMBLY

Important: Use only factory authorized replacement parts.

If you lack the necessary skills to properly perform the installation, you should not proceed, but get help from a qualiﬁ ed service technician. Tools required:

•

3/4” Open-End Wrench

•

Phillips Head Screwdriver

•

Ratchet with 1/4” socket or 1/4” nutdriver

•

Flashlight

Removing Inner Door/Manifold/Burner Assembly

Set the gas control valve/thermostat to its lowest setting by turning the knob counter-clockwise to the VAC point (see Figure 3).

Turn gas control switch to the “OFF” position and turn “OFF” the gas supply to the unit (see Figure 3).

Disconnect the electrical power to the water heater from the wall outlet.

Remove the outer door from the unit.

Unplug all the electrical connections from the bottom of the gas control valve/thermostat (see Figure 7).

Using a 3/4” open end wrench remove the manifold tube from the gas control valve/thermostat (turning counter-clockwise for natural gas, clockwise for L.P.). Grasp the manifold tube and push down slightly to free the manifold tube from the gas control valve/ thermostat (see Figure 7).

Remove the insulation pad on the inner door by cutting it if necessary. Keep the insulation in a safe place for reusing it later.

Use a 1/4” nutdriver or 1/4” socket & ratchet to loosen the 2 hex head screws on the inner door so the inner door/manifold/burner assembly can be removed (see Figure 7).

Remove inner door/manifold/burner assembly by grasping the manifold and pull back slowly. Rotating it to the left to clear the igniter and ﬂ ame sensor. Care should be taken when inner door and burner assembly passes through jacket opening that it does not damage any of the electrical wiring (see Figure 9).

NOTE: OUTER DOOR AND INSULATION NOT SHOWN FOR CLARITY.

ELECTRICAL

CONNECTIONS

MANIFOLD TUBE NUT

Figure 7

HEX HEAD

SCREWS

Caution Must Be Taken

Prior to installing the new inner door/manifold/burner, look inside the burner chamber to fully understand the correct positioning of the burner assembly and burner manifold tab. It is necessary to use a ﬂ ashlight to ensure correct placement. Care must be taken so as to not damage any electrical wiring or components as you are installing the new inner door/manifold/burner assembly. Extra caution should be taken to ensure that electrical wiring, ﬁ berglass insulation or any other object is not between door gasket and combustion chamber shield.

Note: If the burner door gasket (see Figure 9) is worn or damaged it needs to be replaced. See section “Door Gasket Replacement”.

Re-installing Inner Door/Manifold/Burner Assembly

Insert the manifold/burner assembly in the

1. burner chamber compartment, making sure that the tip of burner manifold tab engages in the proper slot of the bracket (see Figure 8).

Important:

• The tip end of the burner manifold MUST be placed in the upper slotted portion for models with input rate of 40,000 to 50,000 Btu/hr to obtain proper installation.

• The tip end of the burner manifold MUST be placed in the lower slotted portion for models with input rate of 60,000 to 75,000 Btu/hr to obtain proper installation. After conﬁ rming no materials of any type are between

2. door gasket and combustion chamber shield, align the screws on the inner door with the screw holes on the combustion chamber and tighten with 1/4” nutdriver or 1/4” socket & ratchet (see Figure 7). After tightening the inner door screws, visually inspect area around door gasket and skirt for spaces or gaps. The door gasket MUST be sealed completely in order for the water heater to perform properly. DO NOT OPERATE THE WATER HEATER IF THE DOOR GASKET DOES NOT CREATE A SEAL BETWEEN MANIFOLD DOOR AND COMBUSTION CHAMBER. Reconnect the manifold tube to the gas control valve/

3. thermostat (Note: Do Not apply any thread sealant at this connection). To prevent any cross threading the manifold tube should be started by hand (turn clockwise for natural gas, counter-clockwise for L.P.). Upon tightening with the ﬁ ngers and conﬁ rming it has not been cross threaded, tighten nut with a 3/4” open end wrench (see Figure 7). Reinstall the insulation pad which was removed in

4. step 7 above. Reconnect all the electrical connections to the bottom

5. of the gas control valve/thermostat, gently pushing each connector up until it snaps into place (see Figures 7 & 10). Reconnect the electrical power to the water heater in

6. the wall outlet and turn the main gas supply back “ON” to the gas control valve/thermostat. Restart the water heater by following the directions on

7. the “Lighting and Operating Instructions” label located on the front of the water heater. Test gas connections by brushing on an approved non-corrosive leak detection solution. (Note: Do not splash the solution on control. If a leak is detected, shut the water heater down by following the directions on the “Lighting and Operating Instructions”. Repair the leak(s) and repeat this step. Upon verifying proper operation of the water heater,

8. replace the insulation and outer door.

BURNER SUPPORT

BRACKET -

LOCATED IN THE

CENTRE OF THE

CHAMBER.

OUTER DOOR

ELECTRICAL

CONNECTIONS

STRAIGHT SLOT

FOR 40-50K

BURNERS WITH

STRAIGHT

MANIFOLD TUBES

Figure 8

INSULATION

PAD

Figure 9

CURVED SLOT FOR

60-75K BURNERS

MANIFOLD TUBES

GASKET ON

REAR OF DOOR

MOUNTING CLIP

(1 EACH SIDE)

WITH OFFSET

COMBUSTION

CHAMBER

OPENING

Figure 10

FLAME SENSOR AND IGNITER REMOVAL/REPLACEMENT

Remove and discard the old ﬂ ame sensor and/or hot

FLAME SENSOR AND/OR HOT SURFACE IGNITER

Important: Use only factory authorized replacement parts.

If you lack the necessary skills to properly perform the installation, you should not proceed, but get help from a qualiﬁ ed service technician. Tools required:

•

3/4” Open-End Wrench

•

Phillips Head Screwdriver

•

Ratchet with 1/4” socket or 1/4” nutdriver

•

Flashlight

•

Flat Blade screwdriver

Removing Inner Door/Manifold/Burner Assembly:

Set the gas control valve/thermostat to its lowest setting by turning the knob counter-clockwise to the VAC point (see Figure 3).

Turn gas control switch to the “OFF” position and turn “OFF” the gas supply to the unit (see Figure 3).

Disconnect the electrical power to the water heater from the wall outlet.

Remove the outer door from the unit.

Unplug all the electrical connections from the bottom of the gas control valve/thermostat (see Figure 11).

Remove the insulation pad on the inner door by cutting it if necessary. Keep the insulation in a safe place for reusing it later.

Use a 1/4” nutdriver or 1/4” socket & ratchet to loosen the 2 hex head screws on the inner door so the inner door/manifold/burner assembly can be removed (see Figure 11).

Remove inner door/manifold/burner assembly by grasping the manifold, rotating it to the left to clear the igniter and ﬂ ame sensor and pulling back. Care should be taken when inner door and burner assembly passes through jacket opening that it does not damage any of the electrical wiring (see Figure 13).

Removing Flame Sensor And/Or Hot Surface Igniter: Note: The conﬁ guration of the ﬂ ame sensor and igniter allows you to replace them separately. It is recommended to clean the ﬂ ame sensor when you replace the igniter.

Lift the retainer clip straight up from the back of the manifold component block (using a ﬂ at-blade screwdriver), then remove the manifold component block from the manifold door (see Figure 14).

Disconnect the wiring connection between the ﬂ ame sensor/igniter and valve.

Remove and retain the screw(s) securing the ﬂ ame sensor and/or hot surface igniter assembly (see Figure 14).

4. surface igniter assembly. Install the new Flame Sensor and/or Hot Surface

5. Igniter. Route the new ﬂ ame sensor and/or hot surface igniter

6. connector wire through manifold/burner door opening. Secure the assembly to the bracket using screw(s) removed in step 3 above. Reconnect the wiring connection between the ﬂ ame

7. sensor/igniter and the valve. Reposition the manifold component block in the

8. manifold door opening and secure it with the retainer clip.

Caution Must Be Taken

Prior to installing the new inner door/manifold/ burner assembly, look inside the burner chamber to fully understand the correct positioning of the burner assembly and burner manifold tab. It may be necessary to use a ﬂ ashlight to ensure correct placement. Care must be taken so as to not damage any electrical wiring or components as you are installing the new inner door/manifold/burner assembly. Extra caution should be taken to ensure that electrical wiring, ﬁ berglass insulation or any other object is not caught between door gasket and combustion chamber shield. Note: If the burner door gasket (see Figure 9) is worn or damaged it needs to be replaced. See section “Door Gasket Replacement”. Re-installing Inner Door/Manifold/Burner Assembly

Insert the manifold/burner assembly in the burner

1. chamber compartment, making sure that the tip of burner manifold tab engages in the proper slot of the bracket (see Figure 12). The tip end of the burner manifold MUST be placed in the slotted portion under the condensation pan to obtain proper installation (see Figure 12).

Important:

• The tip end of the burner manifold MUST be placed in the upper slotted portion for models with input rate of 40,000 to 50,000 Btu/hr to obtain proper installation.

2. door gasket and combustion chamber shield, align the screws on the inner door with the screw holes on the combustion chamber and tighten with 1/4” nutdriver or 1/4” socket & ratchet (see Figure 11). After tightening the inner door screws, visually inspect area around door gasket and skirt for spaces or gaps. The door gasket MUST be sealed completely in order for the water heater to perform properly. DO NOT OPERATE THE WATER HEATER IF THE DOOR GASKET DOES NOT CREATE A SEAL BETWEEN MANIFOLD DOOR AND COMBUSTION CHAMBER.

Reconnect the manifold tube to the gas control valve/ thermostat (Note: Do Not apply any thread sealant at this connection). To prevent any cross threading the manifold tube should be started by hand (turn clockwise for natural gas, counter-clockwise for L.P.). Upon tightening with the ﬁ ngers and conﬁ rming it has not been cross threaded, tighten nut with an 3/4” open end wrench (see Figure 11).

Reconnect all the electrical connections to the bottom of the gas control valve/thermostat, gently pushing each connector up until it snaps into place (see Figures 10 & 11).

Reconnect the electrical power to the water heater in the wall outlet and turn the main gas supply back “ON” to the gas control valve/thermostat.

Restart the water heater by following the directions on the “Lighting and Operating Instructions” label located on the front of the water heater.

As the burner is heating (view flames through viewport), test the manifold tube connection at the gas control valve/thermostat by brushing on an approved noncorrosive leak detection solution (Important: Do Not splash the solution onto any electrical connections. If a leak is detected, shut the water heater down by following the directions on the “Lighting and Operating Instructions”. Repair the leak(s) and repeat step 6 above).

Upon verifying proper operation of the water heater, reinstall the insulation and the outer door. Note: The structure of ﬂ ame sensor/hot surface igniter allows you to remove and replace them separately.

BURNER SUPPORT

BRACKET -

LOCATED IN THE

CENTRE OF THE

CHAMBER.

OUTER DOOR

STRIGHT SLOT FOR

40-50K BURNERS

WITH STRAIGHT

MANIFOLD TUBES

Figure 12

INSULATION

PAD

GASKET ON

REAR OF DOOR

MOUNTING CLIP

(1 EACH SIDE)

Figure 13

CURVED SLOT FOR

60-75K BURNERS

WITH OFFSET

MANIFOLD TUBES

COMBUSTION

CHAMBER

OPENING

ELECTRICAL

CONNECTIONS

NOTE: OUTER DOOR AND INSULATION NOT SHOWN FOR CLARITY.

MANIFOLD TUBE NUT

HEX HEAD

SCREWS

Figure 11

RETAINER

CLIP

COMPONENT

BLOCK

DRAIN

HOLE

IGNITER/ SENSOR

ASSEMBLY

Figure 14

BURNER AND ORIFICE REMOVAL/REPLACEMENT

BURNER

Important: Use only factory authorized replacement parts.

If you lack the necessary skills to properly perform the installation, you should not proceed, but get help from a qualiﬁ ed service technician. Tools required:

•

3/4” Open-End Wrench

•

Phillips Head Screwdriver

•

Ratchet with 1/4” socket or 1/4” nutdriver.

Removing Inner Door/Manifold/Burner Assembly:

Set the gas control valve/thermostat to its lowest setting by turning the knob counter-clockwise to the VAC point (see Figure 3).

Turn gas control switch to the “OFF” position and turn “OFF” the gas supply to the unit (see Figure 3).

Disconnect the electrical power to the water heater from the wall outlet.

Remove the outer door from the unit.

Unplug all the electrical connections from the bottom of the gas control valve/thermostat (see Figure 15).

Remove the insulation pad on the inner door by cutting it if necessary. Keep the insulation in a safe place for reusing it later.

Use a 1/4” nutdriver or 1/4” socket & ratchet to loosen the 2 hex head screws on the inner door so the inner door/manifold/burner assembly can be removed (see Figure 15).

Removing Burner:

Burner may be hot. Wait until burner has cooled off. After noting the position of the condensation drain hole on the top of the burner, turn the inner door/manifold/burner assembly upsidedown. Using a Phillips head screwdriver, remove and retain the 2 screws attaching the burner to the manifold pipe (see Figure 18 & 19).

Installing Burner: Care MUST be taken to ensure the burner is installed correctly on the inner door/manifold assembly. Position the new burner upside down with the orientation of the burner’s condensation drain as shown in illustration (see Figure 18 & 19).

Align the screw holes on the inner door/manifold

1. assembly. Using the two screws removed in step 1 of Removing Burner, install the new burner to the inner door/ manifold assembly (rotate the assembly to visually check the top portion of the burner assembly and conﬁ rm the orientation of the condensation drain hole (see Figure 19 and note).

Caution Must Be Taken

Prior to installing the new inner door/manifold/burner assembly, look inside the burner chamber to fully understand the correct positioning of the burner assembly and burner manifold tab. It may be necessary to use a ﬂ ashlight to ensure correct placement. Care must be taken so as to not damage any electrical wiring, or components as you are installing the new inner door/manifold/burner assembly. Extra caution should be taken to ensure that electrical wiring, ﬁ berglass insulation or any other object is not between door gasket and combustion chamber shield. Note: If the burner door gasket (see Figure 9) is worn or damaged it needs to be replaced. See section “Door Gasket Replacement”. Reinstalling Inner Door/Manifold/Burner Assembly

Insert the manifold/burner assembly in the burner

1. chamber compartment, making sure that the tip of burner manifold tab engages in the proper slot of the bracket. The tip end of the burner manifold MUST be placed in the slotted portion under the condensation pan to obtain proper installation (see Figure 16).

Important:

• The tip end of the burner manifold MUST be placed in the upper slotted portion for models with input rate of 40,000 to 50,000 Btu/hr to obtain proper installation.

2. door gasket and combustion chamber shield, align the screws on the inner door with the screw holes on the combustion chamber and tighten with 1/4” nutdriver or 1/4” socket & ratchet (see Figure 15). After tightening the inner door screws, visually inspect area around door gasket and skirt for spaces or gaps. The door gasket MUST be sealed completely in order for the water heater to perform properly. DO NOT OPERATE THE WATER HEATER IF THE DOOR GASKET DOES NOT CREATE A SEAL BETWEEN MANIFOLD DOOR AND COMBUSTION CHAMBER. Reconnect the manifold tube to the gas control valve/

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