Catalog No. 103 GB (Supplement to Catalog Noo 103 FA)
INSTRUCTIONS
FOR
ADJUSTING AND OPERATING
LIST OF PARTS
CLASS 39500
Styles
39500 GB |
39500 GC-045 |
First Edition
Copyright 1967
By
Union Special Machine Coo
Rights Reserved in All Countries
MACHINE COMPANY
INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES
CHICAGO
P r i n t e d in U. S • A •
July, 1972
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IDENTIFICATION OF MAACHINES
Each Union Special machine is identified by a Style number on a name plate on the machine. Style numbers are classified as standard and special. Standard Style
numbers have one or more |
letters suffixed, but never contain the |
letter |
"Z". |
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Example: "Style 39500 GB". |
Special Style numbers |
contain the letter |
11 Z". |
When |
only minor changes are made in a standard machine, |
a 11 Z" is suffixed to the stan- |
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dard Style number. Example: "Style 39500 GBZ". |
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Styles of machines similar in construction are grouped under a Class number which differs from the Style number in that it contains no letters. Example: "Class 39500".
APPLICATION OF CATALOG
This catalog is a supplement to Catalog No. 10 3 FA and should be used in conjunction therewith. Only those parts used on Styles 39500 GB and GC-045, but not on Style 39500 FA are illustrated and listed at the back of this catalog. On the page opposite the illustration will be found a listing of the parts with their part numbers, description and the number of pieces required. Numbers in the first column are reference numbers only, and merely indicate the position of that part in the illustration. Reference numbers should never be used in ordering parts. Always use the part number listed in the second column.
This catalog applies specifically to the standard Styles of machines as listed herein. It can also be applied with discretion to some Special Styles of machines in Class 39500. References to directions, such as right, left, front, back, etc., are given from the operator's position while seated at the machine. Operating direction of handwheel is away from operator.
STYLES OF MACHINES
Hi-Styled High Speed. Two Curved Blade Needles, One Looper, One Spreader, Three Thread Overseam.ing Machines. Differential Feed, Trimming Mechanism with Spring Pres sed Lower Knife, Automatic Lubricating System.
39500 GB Light to medium duty machine for closing the toe sections of women's seamless nylon hosiery. Seam specification 5 21-SSa-1. Standard seam widths approximately 1/8 and 5/32 inch from left needle. Stitch range 20-100 per inch. Cam adjusted main and differential feeds. Maximum recommended speed 7000 R. P.M.
39500 GC-045 Light to medium duty machine for closing the toe sections of men's hosiery and socks. Seam specification 521-SSa-1. Standard seam width approximately 3/16 inch from left needle. Stitch range 20-100 per inch. Cam adjusted main and differential feeds. Maximum recommended speed 7000 R. P. M.
OILING
CAUTION! Oil was draiued from machine when shipped, so reservoir must be filled before beginning to operate. Oil capacity of Class 39 500 is sia ounces. A straight mineral oil of a Saybolt viscosity of 90 to 125 seconds at 100 Fahrenheit should be used.
Machine is filled with oil at spring cap in top cover. Oil level is checked at sight gauge on front of machine. Red tip of oil level indicator should show between gauge lines when machine is stationary.
Machine is automatically lubricated. No oiling is necessary, other than keeping main reservoir filled. Check oil daily before the morning start; add oil as required.
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OILING (Continued)
The oil drain plug screw is located at back of machine near bottom edge of base. It is a magnetic screw designed to accumulate possible foreign materials which may have entered the crank case. It should be removed and cleaned periodically.
NEEDLES
Each Union Special needle has both type and size number. The type number denotes the kind of shank., point., length., groove, finish and other details. The size number., stamped on the needle shank., denotes largest diameter of blade., measured in thousandths of an inch., midway between shank and eye. Collectively, type and size number represent the complete symbol which is given on the label of all needles packaged and sold by Union Special.
Class 39500 machines use a curved blade needle. The standard recommended needle for the machines covered in this catalog is Type 154 GCS. Below is the description and sizes available of the recommended needle.
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Description and Sizes |
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154 GCS |
Slabbed |
shank., |
round point, • 046 inch double |
slab., |
curved blade., |
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standard |
length., |
double groove., struck groove, |
spotted., |
chromium |
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plated and is available in sizes 022, 025, 027., 029., 032. |
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To have needle orders promptly and accurately filled, an empty package, a |
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sample needle., or the type and size number should be forwarded. |
Use description |
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on label. |
A complete ·order would read: 11 1000 Needles, Type 154 GCS., |
Size 025". |
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Selection of proper needle size is determined by size of thread used. Thread should pass freely through needle eye in order to produce a good stitch formation.
Success in the operation of Union Special machines Gan be secured only by use of needles packaged under our brand name., ~ .~ which is backed by a reputation for producing highest quality needles in materials and workmanship for more than threequarters of a century.
CHANGING NEEDLES
Release pressure on presser foot by turning presser foot release bushing (AG., Fig. 1 or lA) and swing presser arm (U) out of position. Turn handwheel in operating direction until needles are at their lowest point of travel. Using hexagonal socket wrench No. 21388 AU., furnished with machine, loosen needle clamp nut about 1/4 turn. Again turn handwheel until needles are at high position. Withdraw needle.
To replace |
needles, leave needle holder at high position and with the flats to |
the left, insert |
needles in holder until they rest against stop pin. Keeping needles |
in this position., |
turn handwheel until holder is again at its low point of travel; then |
tighten nut. Return presser arm (U) to position; re-lock presser foot release bushing (AG).
THREAD STAND
39500 GB ONLY
After thread comes from cones on cone support (A., Fig. 1) it is brought up through the back hole of thread eyelet (B), then continues between tension disc felts
(L)., through tension post slot (K) of tension post (G)., and down through front hole of thread eyelet.
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THREAD STAND (Continued)
39500 GC-045 ONLY
After thread comes from cones on cone support (A., Fig" lA) it is brought up through the back hole of thread eyelet (B), then down through the front hole of thread eyeleto
Now.. on all styles the upper looper thread and the left needle thread is threaded through the upper holes (left and middle respectively) of tension thread guide (C., Fig. 1 or lA) from front to backo Then through the lower holes from back to fronto The right needle thread is threaded through the tension thread guide (C).. first through the upper hole back to front.. second through the middle hole front to back and third through the lower hole back to fronto
All threads then continue between the tension discs (J)., through tension post slot (K) in tension post (G) and on through front thread guide (M).
THREADING
Only parts involved in threading are shown in threading diagrams (Fig" 1 and lA)o Parts are placed in their relative positions for clarityo Refer to Figo 1 for threading of Style 39500 GB or refer to Figo lA for threading of Style 39500 GC-045o
It will simplify the threading of these machines to follow the recommended sequence of threading the upper looper first.. the right needle second and the left needle third. Complete the full threading of one before proceeding to the next one.
Before beginning to thread, swing cloth plate open.. turn handwheel in operating direction until needles {X) are in high position. Release pressure on pr~~sser foot by turning presser foot release bushing (AG); and swing presser arm (U) out of position.
Be sure the threads.. as they come from the tension thread guide (C) are between tension discs (J) and in tension_post slot (K) in tension post (G). The tension posts should be positioned so the tension post slot will be at the approximate angle for the different threads as indicated in Fig. 1 and lAo
TO THREAD UPPER LOOPER
Turn handwheel until point of upper looper (W) is all the way left. Lead thread through auxiliary looper thread eyelet (P) from back to front.. then through both eyes
of upper looper thread eyelet (N) from |
left to righto |
NOTE: Thread must pass in |
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front of looper |
thread pull-off (AF). |
After pulling |
up upper looper thread tube |
assembly (AA).. |
lead the thread under neck of top cover casting and down through |
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thread tube assembly (AA). This is easily accomplished by using the forked end of the threading wire, supplied with each machineo Pull thread out bottom of tube using hooked end of tweezers., also supplied with each machine. Push tube down.. and then insert thread through upper looper eye from front to back.
CAUTION! Be sure upper looper thread is under the needle threads when passing from tube assembly to upper looper eyeo
TO THREAD NEEDLES
Turn handwheel in operating direction until needles (X) are at their highest position. Insert both needle threads from right to left., through BOTH eyes of needle thread eyelet (AD)., under neck of top cover casting and then down through holes in top cover needle thread eyelet (AC). The right needle thread should be threaded in the right hole and the left needle thread through the left hole of the top cover needle thread eyeleto Thread needles from the fronto
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