Rover 214 1989 1995 User Manual

0 (0)

Rover 214 & 414

Service and Repair Manual

Mark Coombs and Christopher Rogers

Models covered

(1689-288-9AA3)

Rover 214 and 414 models fitted with eight or sixteen-valve 1397 cc ‘K-series’ engine

Covers major mechanical features of Cabriolet

Does not cover Diesel engine models

© Haynes Publishing 1997

 

 

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil,

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

Somerset BA22 7JJ

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted

Haynes Publishing

Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including

 

photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system,

Haynes North America, Inc

without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

ISBN 1 85960 458 7

Editions Haynes S.A.

147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France

 

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Fyrisborgsgatan 5, 754 50 Uppsala, Sverige

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Contents

LIVING WITH YOUR ROVER 214 & 414

Introduction

Page

0•4

Safety First!

Page

0•5

 

 

 

Roadside Repairs

Introduction

Page

0•6

If your car won’t start

Page

0•6

 

 

 

Jump starting

Page

0•7

 

 

 

Wheel changing

Page

0•8

 

 

 

Identifying leaks

Page

0•9

 

 

 

Towing

Page

0•9

 

 

 

Weekly Checks

Introduction

Page

0•10

Underbonnet check points

Page

0•10

 

 

 

Engine oil level

Page

0•11

 

 

 

Coolant level

Page

0•11

 

 

 

Brake fluid level

Page

0•12

 

 

 

Screen washer fluid level

Page

0•12

 

 

 

Power steering fluid level

Page

0•13

 

 

 

Wiper blades

Page

0•13

 

 

 

Tyre condition and pressure

Page

0•14

 

 

 

Electrical systems

Page

0•15

 

 

 

Battery

Page

0•15

 

 

 

Lubricants, Fluids, Capacities and Tyre Pressures

Page 0•16

MAINTENANCE

Routine Maintenance and Servicing

Page

1•1

Maintenance schedule

Page

1•3

 

 

 

Maintenance procedures

Page

1•6

 

 

 

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Contents

REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL

Engine and Associated Systems

Engine in-car repair procedures

Page

2A•1

Engine removal and general overhaul procedures

Page

2B•1

 

 

 

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

Page

3•1

 

 

 

Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor engines

Page

4A•1

 

 

 

Fuel and exhaust systems - single-point fuel injected engines

Page

4B•1

 

 

 

Fuel and exhaust systems - multi-point fuel injected engines

Page

4C•1

 

 

 

Emission control systems

Page

4D•1

 

 

 

Ignition system - carburettor engines

Page

5A•1

 

 

 

Ignition system - fuel injected engines

Page

5B•1

 

 

 

Starting and charging systems

Page

5C•1

 

 

 

Transmission

Clutch

Page

6•1

Gearbox

Page

7•1

 

 

 

Driveshafts

Page

8•1

 

 

 

Brakes and Suspension

Braking system

Page

9•1

Suspension and steering

Page

10•1

 

 

 

Body Equipment

Bodywork and fittings

Page

11•1

Body electrical systems

Page

12•1

 

 

 

Wiring Diagrams

Page 12•20

REFERENCE

Dimensions and Weights

Page

REF•1

Conversion Factors

Page

REF•2

 

 

 

Buying Spare Parts and Vehicle Identification

Page

REF•3

 

 

 

General Repair Procedures

Page

REF•4

 

 

 

Jacking and Vehicle Support

Page

REF•5

 

 

 

Radio/cassette Anti-theft System - precaution

Page

REF•5

 

 

 

Tools and Working Facilities

Page

REF•6

 

 

 

MOT Test Checks

Page

REF•8

 

 

Fault Finding

Page REF•12

 

 

Glossary of Technical Terms

Page REF•19

 

 

 

Index

Page REF•24

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•4 Introduction

The Rover 214 Hatchback and 414 Saloon models covered in this Manual are a muchdeveloped version of the original 213 and 216 models first launched in 1984. The 214 five-door model was the first to be introduced in October 1989 and was closely followed by the 414 model introduced in March 1990. The 214 model range was further updated in September 1990 when a three-door variant was introduced.

All models are fitted with the new 1.4 litre ‘K’ series engine. The 214 S model (first introduced in September 1990) has an eightvalve single overhead camshaft version of the engine which is fed by an SU KIF carburettor.

All other 214 and 414 models are equipped with a sixteen-valve double overhead camshaft version of the engine which is controlled by a Rover/Motorola Modular Engine Management System (MEMS) with either single-point fuel injection (SPi) or multipoint fuel injection (MPi). All versions of the engine are able to accept a full range of emission control systems, up to and including a three-way regulated catalytic converter.

The five-speed transmission, which is a joint development by Rover and Peugeot engineers, is of Peugeot design and produced by Rover. The transmission is fitted to the left-

hand end of the engine. The complete engine/transmission unit is mounted transversely across the front of the car and drives the front wheels through unequallength driveshafts.

The front suspension incorporates MacPherson struts and the rear is of the double wishbone type.

Braking is by discs at the front and drums at the rear, with a dual-circuit hydraulic system. On all models in the range, an Antilock Braking System (ABS) was offered as an optional extra. If ABS is fitted, then braking is by discs both at the front and rear.

Rover 114GTa

Rover Metro 1.1S

Your Rover 214 & 414 Manual

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action

and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by

avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.

The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence.

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions, and to Duckhams Oils who provided lubrication data. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who supplied some of the workshop tools, and to

all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this Manual.

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production

run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from the information given.

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Safety First! 0•5

Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Scalding

Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot.

Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing

When working a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps.

Never venture under a car

is only supported

Take care if torque nuts Initial loosening be done with

Fire

Fuel is highly explosive.

Don’t let fuel

Do not smoke (including pilot vehicle being creating sparks (electrically or by

Fuel vapour is work on the fuel an inspection pit

Another cause overload or short repairing or

Keep a fire suitable for use

Electric shock

• Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near ignition system the engine running

the ignition switched on.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication

Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled Never run the engine in a

confined space such as a garage with the doors shut

Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are cleaning solvents

your pocket.

• Air conditioning poisonous gas if (including a cigarette) burns on contact.

Special hazards

Hydrofluoric acid

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 4000C. The

changes into a charred or sticky containing the acid. Once formed,

remains dangerous for years. If it the skin, it may be necessary to the limb concerned.

dealing with a vehicle which has

a fire, or with components salvaged a vehicle, wear protective gloves

them after use.

battery

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care

topping-up or carrying the battery. hydrogen gas given off by the battery

explosive. Never cause a spark or naked light nearby. Be careful when and disconnecting battery

or jump leads.

can cause injury if they go off

. Take care when removing the wheel and/or facia. Special storage

instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Asbestos

• Asbestos dust can

Warning: Never expose the hands,

or swallowed.

face or any other part of the body

gaskets and in brake

to injector spray; the fuel can

When dealing with

penetrate the skin with potentially fatal

safest to assume

results.

Remember...

A few tips

DO

DON’T

• Do use eye protection when using power

• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component

tools, and when working under the vehicle.

which may be beyond your capability – get

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to

assistance.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take

protect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodically

unverified short cuts.

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip

that all is well when working alone on the

vehicle.

and cause injury.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around

out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

where someone can trip over them. Mop

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before

up oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or

working on the vehicle – especially the

electrical system.

near a vehicle being worked on.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking

 

equipment has a safe working load rating

 

adequate for the job.

 

 

 

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•6 Roadside repairs

The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won’t start and the starter motor doesn’t turn

If your car won’t start even though the starter motor turns as normal

MIf it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the selector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’.

MOpen the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight.

MSwitch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend’s car.

MIs there fuel in the tank?

MIs there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos.

Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector and HT leads. (Note that Diesel engines don’t normally suffer from damp.)

Check that the distributor HT lead

Check that the spark plug HT lead

C lead connections are clean and secure

A connections are clean and secure

B connections are clean and secure -

 

cover removed

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

D Check the security and condition of the battery connections

Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition off) and spray them with a waterdispersing spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

E The ECU wiring plugs may cause problems if dirty or not properly connected

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Roadside repairs 0•7

Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must

correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first

place. There are three possibilities:

1)The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on.

2)The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).

3)The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

1 to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.

Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case.

Jump starting

Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2

 

Connect the other end of the red lead

3

Connect one end of the black jump lead

 

 

to the positive (+) terminal of the

 

to the negative (-) terminal of the

 

 

booster battery

 

booster battery

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4

jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

engine block, well away from the

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

battery, on the vehicle to be started

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Make sure that the jump leads will not

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5

 

 

 

come into contact with the fan,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

drivebelts or other moving parts of the

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

engine

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Start the engine using the booster

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6

 

battery, then with the engine running at

 

idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•8 Roadside repairs

Wheel changing

Some of the details shown here will vary according to model. For instance, the location of the spare wheel and jack is not the same on all cars. However, the basic principles apply to all vehicles.

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel – it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.

Preparation

MWhen a puncture occurs, stop as soon as it is safe to do so.

MPark on firm level ground, if possible, and well out of the way of other traffic.

MUse hazard warning lights if necessary.

MIf you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence.

MApply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear (or Park on models with automatic transmission).

MChock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed – a couple of large stones will do for this.

MIf the ground is soft, use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the jack.

Changing the wheel

1

Location of spare wheel and tools in boot

2

Unscrew the spare wheel retaining cap

 

3

Remove the trim to expose the wheelnuts

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4

Use the wheel brace to slightly loosen the

5

Locate the jack head in the correct

6

Raise the jack until the wheel is clear of

wheelnuts

jacking point

the ground

 

 

 

 

 

 

7 Remove the wheelnuts and lift off the wheel

8 Fit the replacement wheel and tighten the nuts

Finally...

MRemove the wheel chocks.

MStow the jack and tools in the correct locations in the car.

MCheck the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure.

MHave the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible.

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Roadside repairs 0•9

Identifying leaks

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a

clue to what’s leaking. Some fluids are distinctively

coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak.

Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil

 

Oil from filter

 

Gearbox oil

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...

...or from the base of the oil filter.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

Antifreeze

 

Brake fluid

 

Power steering fluid

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home – or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points:

MUse a proper tow-rope – they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window.

MAlways turn the ignition key to the ‘on’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so

that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work.

MOnly attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided.

MBefore being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission.

MNote that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running.

MOn models with power steering, greater- than-usual steering effort will also be required.

Towing

MThe driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching.

MMake sure that both drivers know the route before setting off.

MOnly drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions.

MOn models with automatic transmission, special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not tow, or transmission damage may result.

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•10 Weekly checks

Introduction

There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot on inconvenience and expense.

These “Weekly Checks” require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could well prove to be very well spent, for example:

mKeeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely but could also save your life.

mMany breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of these.

mIf your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don’t work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem.

mIf the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak.

Underbonnet Check Points

K16 MPi engine with plastic inlet manifold

A B C

Engine oil level dipstick

D Brake fluid reservoir

F

Engine oil filler cap

E Power steering fluid reservoir

G

Coolant expansion tank

 

 

Screen washer fluid reservoir

Battery

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Weekly checks 0•11

Engine oil level

Before you start

Make sure that your car is on level ground.

Check the oil level before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.

If the oil is checked

immediately after driving the

vehicle, some of the oil will

remain in the upper engine

components, resulting in an inaccurate

reading on the dipstick.

The correct oil

Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used (see “Lubricants and Fluids” on page 0•16).

Car Care

If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, then engine may be burning oil (see “Fault Finding”).

Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks. If the level is too low, severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

1 The dipstick is located at the rear right-hand end of the engine (see “Underbonnet Check Points” on page 0•10 for exact location).

Withdraw the dipstick.

3 dipstick, which should be between the upper HI mark and the lower LO mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level from the lower mark to the upper mark.

2 Using a clean rag or paper towel, wipe all the oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then

withdraw it again.

4 Oil is added through the filler cap. Rotate the cap through a quarter-turn anticlockwise and withdraw it. Top-up the level. A funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick

often. Do not overfill.

Coolant level

Warning: Do not attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk

of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

● With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.

● It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become diluted.

1

When the engine is cold, the coolant level

2

If topping-up, wait until the engine is

3

Add a mixture of water and antifreeze

should be between the expansion tank

cold, then cover the filler cap with a layer

through the expansion tank filler neck,

ridge/seam and the level indicated above

of rag and start unscrewing the cap. Wait until

until the coolant is up to the upper level. Refit

COOLANT LEVEL on the side of the

any hissing ceases, indicating that all

the cap, turning it clockwise as far as it will go

expansion tank, which is located in the front

pressure is released, then slowly unscrew the

until it is secure.

right-hand corner of the engine compartment.

cap until it can be removed. At all times keep

 

 

 

 

well away from the filler opening.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•12 Weekly checks

Brake fluid level

Warning: Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and

pouring it. Do not use fluid which has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Before you start

Make sure that the car is on level ground.

1

The brake master cylinder and fluid

2

If topping-up is necessary, unplug the

Cleanliness is of great importance when

reservoir is mounted on the vacuum

electrical connector and wipe the area

dealing with the braking system, so take

servo unit in the engine compartment. The

around the filler cap with a clean rag before

care to clean around the reservoir cap

MAX and MIN level marks are indicated on the

removing the cap. When adding fluid, pour it

before topping-up. Use only clean brake fluid

side of the reservoir and the fluid level should

carefully into the reservoir to avoid spilling it

from a container which has stood for at least

be maintained between these marks at all

on surrounding painted surfaces. Be sure to

24 hours (to allow air bubbles to separate

times.

use only the specified brake hydraulic fluid

out).

 

 

since mixing different types of fluid can cause

 

 

 

damage to the system.

Safety first

If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup, this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately.

If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.

 

3

Before adding fluid, it’s a good idea to

4

Carefully add fluid avoiding spilling it on

 

inspect the reservoir. The system should

surrounding paintwork. Use only the

 

be drained and refilled if dirt is seen in the

specified fluid; mixing different types can

 

fluid (see Chapter 9 for details).

cause damage to the system. After filling to

 

 

 

the correct level, refit the cap securely, to

 

 

 

prevent leaks and the entry of foreign matter.

 

 

 

Ensure that the fluid level switch plunger is

 

 

 

free to move. Wipe off any spilt fluid.

 

 

 

 

 

Screen washer fluid level

Car care

Screenwash additives not only keep the windscreen clean during bad weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold weather - which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top up using plain water, as the screenwash will become diluted and will freeze in cold weather.

Check the operation of the windscreen and rear window washers. Adjust the nozzles using a pin if necessary, aiming the spray to a point slightly above the centre of the swept area.

Warning: On no account use

1

The reservoir for the windscreen and rear

2

When topping-up the reservoir(s) a

engine coolant antifreeze in the

window (where fitted) washer systems is

screenwash additive should be added in

screen washer system - this will

located on the left-hand side of the engine

the quantities recommended on the bottle.

damage the paintwork.

compartment.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Weekly checks 0•13

Power steering fluid level

Before you start

Make sure that the car is on level ground.

Set the front roadwheels in the straightahead position.

The engine should be stopped.

Do not operate the steering once the engine is stopped.

Safety first

If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup, there is a fluid leak somewhere in the system which should be investigated immediately.

If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the power steering system has been checked.

1

The power steering fluid reservoir is

2

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the

3

After filling the reservoir to the proper

located on the right-hand side of the

area around the filler cap with a clean rag

level, make sure that the cap is refitted

engine compartment, just behind the cooling

before removing the cap. When adding fluid,

securely to avoid leaks and the entry of

system expansion tank. MAX and MIN level

pour it carefully into the reservoir to avoid

foreign matter into the reservoir.

marks are indicated on the side of the

spillage. Be sure to use only the specified

 

 

reservoir and the fluid level should be

fluid.

 

 

maintained between these marks at all times.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wiper blades

1 Check the condition of the wiper blades. If they are cracked or show any signs of deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. For maximum clarity of vision, wiper blades

should be renewed annually, as a matter of course.

2 To remove a wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from the glass until it locks. Swivel the blade through 90º, press the locking tab with a finger nail and slide the blade out of the arm’s hooked end. On

refitting, ensure that the blade locks securely into the arm.

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•14 Weekly checks

Tyre condition and pressure

It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear (“rotating” the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once!

Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer.

Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by “kerbing” whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.

New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car, the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.

Tread Depth - visual check

Tread Depth - manual check

Tyre Pressure Check

 

The original tyres have tread wear safety

 

Alternatively tread wear can be

 

Check the tyre pressures regularly with

1

2

3

bands (B), which will appear when the

monitored with a simple, inexpensive

the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre

tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm.

device known as a tread depth indicator

pressures immediately after the vehicle has

The band positions are indicated by a

gauge.

been used, or an inaccurate setting will result.

triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

 

 

Tyre pressures are shown on page 0•16

4 Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)

Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.

Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension parts

Hard cornering

Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation

Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.

Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.

Incorrect camber or castor

Repair or renew suspension parts

Malfunctioning suspension

Repair or renew suspension parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment

Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Weekly checks 0•15

Electrical system

Check all external lights and the horn. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for details if any of the circuits are found to be inoperative, and replace the fuse if necessary. Most fuses are located behind the cover in the right-hand lower facia panel. Other fuses are located in the fusebox on the left-hand side of the engine compartment. To replace a blown fuse, pull it from position, using the plastic tool provided. Fit a new fuse of the same rating. If a second fuse blows, it is important that you find the reason - do not use a fuse with a higher rating.

Visually check all accessible wiring connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for security, and for signs of chafing or damage.

If you need to check your brake lights and indicators unaided, back up to a wall or garage door and operate the

lights. The reflected light should show if they are working properly.

1 If a single indicator light, brake light or headlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb has blown and will need to be replaced. Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both brake lights have failed, it is possible that the brake light switch operated by the brake pedal is faulty.

Refer to Chapter 9 for details.

2 If more than one indicator light or headlight has failed, it is likely that either a fuse has blown or that there is a fault in the

circuit (see Chapter 12).

Battery

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read the precautions given in “Safety first” at the start of this manual.

Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition, and that the clamp is tight. Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted.

Periodically (approximately every three months), check the charge condition of the battery as described in Chapter 5A.

If the battery is flat, and you need to jump start your vehicle, see “Jump starting”.

1 The battery is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment. The exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for damage such as a cracked

case or cover.

2 Check the tightness of battery clamps to ensure good electrical connections. You should not be able to move them. Also check each cable for cracks and frayed conductors.

Battery corrosion can be kept to a minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly to the clamps and terminals after they are reconnected.

3

If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is

4

... as well as the battery cable clamps

evident, remove the cables from the

 

battery terminals, clean them with a small wire brush, then refit them. Accessory stores sell a useful tool for cleaning the battery post ...

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•16 Lubricants, fluids, capacities and tyre pressures

Lubricants and fluids

Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Power steering system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

General greasing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W/40 to spec. API-SG or SG/CD, CCMC G4, or RES.22.OL.G4

(Duckhams QS, QXR, Hypergrade Plus, Hypergrade, or 10W/40 Motor Oil)

Antifreeze to spec. BS 6580 and BS 5117. Ethyleneglycol based with non-phosphate corrosion inhibitors, containing no methanol. Mixture 50% by volume

(Duckhams Antifreeze and Summer Coolant)

Special gearbox oil. Refer to your Rover dealer

(Duckhams Hypoid PT 75W/80 may be used for toppingup only)

Hydraulic fluid to spec. SAE J 1703 or DOT 4

(Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid)

Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) to Dexron II D specification (Duckhams Uni-Matic)

Multi-purpose lithium-based grease to NLGI consistency No. 2 (Duckhams LB10)

Capacities

Engine oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4.5 litres - including filter

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5.8 litres

Gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.0 litres

Power steering reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.2 litres

Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

55 litres

Washer system reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3.1 litres

Tyre Pressures (tyres cold)

 

Front

Rear

155 SR 13 tyres

 

 

Normal driving conditions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.1 bar (30 psi)

2.1 bar (30 psi)

Loads in excess of four persons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.1 bar (30 psi)

2.3 bar (34 psi)

Speeds in excess of 100 mph - all loads . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.2 bar (32 psi)

2.2 bar (32 psi)

175/65 TR 14 tyres

 

 

All loads - up to 100 mph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.1 bar (30 psi)

2.1 bar (30 psi)

All loads - over 100 mph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.2 bar (32 psi)

2.2 bar (32 psi)

185/60 HR 14 tyres

 

 

All loads - up to 100 mph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.1 bar (30 psi)

2.1 bar (30 psi)

All loads - over 100 mph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.5 bar (36 psi)

2.5 bar (36 psi)

Note: Pressures apply only to original equipment tyres and may vary if any other make or type is fitted. Check with the tyre manufacturer or supplier for correct pressures if necessary

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

2A•1

Chapter 2 Part A

Engine in-car repair procedures

Contents

Camshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Engine oil and filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Engine/gearbox mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Timing belt - removal, inspection, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . 8 Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for number one piston - locating . . . . . . . . 4 Valve clearances - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Degrees of difficulty

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Easy, suitable for

1

 

Fairly easy, suitable

2

 

Fairly difficult,

3

 

Difficult, suitable for

4

 

Very difficult,

5

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

novice with little

 

for beginner with

 

suitable for competent

 

experienced DIY

 

suitable for expert DIY

 

 

 

experience

 

some experience

 

DIY mechanic

 

 

mechanic

 

or professional

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Specifications

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

General

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2A

Type

 

 

 

 

 

 

Four-cylinder in-line, four-stroke, liquid-cooled

 

 

 

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . .

 

 

 

 

Designation:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1.4 8-valve sohc . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . .

K8

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1.4 16-valve dohc . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . .

K16

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . .

75.00 mm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . .

79.00 mm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . .

1396 cc

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Firing order . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . .

1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)

 

 

 

 

 

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . .

Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

 

 

 

 

Compression ratio:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . .

9.75 : 1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . .

9.50 : 1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Minimum compression pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . .

10.3 bar

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Maximum compression pressure difference between cylinders . . . . . .

1.4 bar

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Maximum power (EEC):

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . .

76 ps (56 kW) @ 5700 rpm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

K8 (with catalytic converter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . .

75 ps (55 kW) @ 5500 rpm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . .

95 ps (70 kW) @ 6250 rpm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

K16 (with catalytic converter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . .

90 ps (66 kW) @ 6250 rpm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Maximum torque (EEC):

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . .

117 Nm (86 lbf ft) @ 3500 rpm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . .

124 Nm (91 lbf ft) @ 4000 rpm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

K16 (with catalytic converter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . .

120 Nm (89 lbf ft) @ 4000 rpm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cylinder block/crankcase

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Note: Service liners are Grade B

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Material . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . .

Aluminium alloy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cylinder liner bore diameter - 60 mm from top of bore:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Standard - grade A (Red) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . .

74.975 to 74.985 mm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Standard - grade B (Blue) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . .

74.986 to 74.995 mm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Service limit . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . .

.

. . . . . . . . . .

75.045 mm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

2A•2 Engine in-car repair procedures

Crankshaft

Number of main bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

Main bearing journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

47.979 to 48.000 mm

Main bearing journal size grades:

 

Grade A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

47.993 to 48.000 mm

Grade B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

47.986 to 47.993 mm

Grade C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

47.979 to 47.986 mm

Crankpin journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

42.986 to 43.007 mm

Crankpin journal size grades:

 

Grade A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

43.000 to 43.007 mm

Grade B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

42.993 to 43.000 mm

Grade C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

42.986 to 42.993 mm

Main bearing and crankpin journal maximum ovality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.010 mm

Main bearing and big-end bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.021 to 0.049 mm

Crankshaft endfloat:

 

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.10 to 0.30 mm

Service limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.50 mm

Thrustwasher thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2.61 to 2.65 mm

Gudgeon pins

Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

18.0 mm

Fit in connecting rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Interference

Pistons and piston rings

Note: Service pistons are Grade B

 

 

Piston diameter:

Grade A

Grade B

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

74.940 to 74.955 mm

74.956 to 74.970 mm

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

74.945 to 74.960 mm

74.960 to 74.975 mm

Piston-to-bore clearance:

 

 

K8 - standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.015 to 0.045 mm

 

K16 - standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.010 to 0.040 mm

 

Service limit - all . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.080 mm

 

Piston ring end gaps (fitted 20 mm from top of bore):

 

 

Top compression ring:

 

 

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.25 to 0.45 mm

 

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.30 to 0.50 mm

 

Second compression ring - all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.30 to 0.50 mm

 

Oil control ring:

 

 

K8 - standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.25 to 1.00 mm

 

K16:

 

 

standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.25 to 0.50 mm

 

service limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.60 mm

 

Piston ring-to-groove clearance:

 

 

Top compression ring:

 

 

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.04 to 0.09 mm

 

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.04 to 0.07 mm

 

Second compression ring:

 

 

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.04 to 0.08 mm

 

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.04 to 0.07 mm

 

Oil control ring - all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.02 to 0.06 mm

 

Cylinder head

Material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Aluminium alloy

Height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

118.95 to 119.05 mm

Reface limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.20 mm

Maximum acceptable gasket face distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.05 mm

Valve seat angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45°

Valve seat width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.5 mm

Seat cutter correction angle:

 

Upper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

30°

Lower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

60°

Valve stem installed height:

 

K8:

 

new . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

38.95 to 40.81 mm

service limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41.06 mm

K16:

 

new . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

38.93 to 39.84 mm

service limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

40.10 mm

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•3

Valves

Seat angle:

 

 

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45°

 

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

44° 30’

 

Head diameter:

 

 

Inlet:

 

 

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

34.0 mm

 

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

28.0 mm

 

Exhaust:

 

 

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

31.0 mm

 

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

24.0 mm

 

Stem outside diameter:

 

 

Inlet:

 

 

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6.967 to 6.975 mm

 

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5.952 to 5.967 mm

 

Exhaust:

 

 

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6.952 to 6.967 mm

 

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5.947 to 5.962 mm

 

Guide inside diameter:

 

 

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7.000 to 7.025 mm

 

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6.000 to 6.025 mm

 

Stem-to-guide clearance:

 

 

Inlet:

 

 

standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.03 to 0.04 mm

 

service limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.07 mm

 

Exhaust:

 

 

standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.07 to 0.08 mm

 

service limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.11 mm

 

Valve timing:

 

 

K8:

 

 

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

13° BTDC

 

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

47° ABDC

 

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

53° BBDC

 

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7° ATDC

 

K16:

 

 

 

 

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

15° BTDC

2A

Inlet closes

45° ABDC

 

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Exhaust opens

55° BBDC

 

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5° ATDC

 

Valve spring free length:

 

 

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

46.2 mm

 

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

50.0 mm

 

Valve guide fitted height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6.0 mm

 

Camshaft

 

 

Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Toothed belt

 

Number of bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

 

Bearing journal running clearance:

 

 

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.060 to 0.094 mm

 

Service limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.150 mm

 

Camshaft endfloat:

 

 

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.060 to 0.190 mm

 

Service limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.500 mm

 

Valve lift:

 

 

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9.0 mm

 

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8.2 mm

 

Hydraulic tappet outside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

32.959 to 32.975 mm

 

Lubrication system

 

 

System pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.0 bar @ idle speed

 

Oil pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Trochoidal, eccentric-rotor

 

Oil pump clearances:

 

 

Rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.02 to 0.06 mm

 

Outer rotor-to-body clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.28 to 0.36 mm

 

Rotor lobe clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.05 to 0.13 mm

 

Pressure relief valve operating pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4.1 bar

 

Oil pressure warning lamp lights at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Below 0.3 to 0.5 bar

 

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

2A•4 Engine in-car repair procedures

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Spark plug (HT) lead clip screws - K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

7

Air intake duct support bracket-to-cylinder head screws . . . . . . . . . . .

4

3

Spark plug cover screws - K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

1.5

Cylinder head cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

7

Camshaft bearing cap/carrier-to-cylinder head bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

7

Cylinder head bolts:

 

 

1st stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20

15

2nd stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Tighten through 180°

 

3rd stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Tighten through (a further) 180°

Timing belt cover fasteners:

 

 

Upper right-hand (outer) cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

3

Lower and upper left-hand (inner) covers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

7

Timing belt tensioner backplate clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25

19

Timing belt tensioner pulley Allen screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

33

24

Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

160

118

Oil pump-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolt and screws . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

7

Alternator mounting bracket-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts . . . . . .

45

33

Dipstick tube-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

7

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

85

63

Transmission-to-engine bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

85

63

Flywheel cover plate screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

7

Flywheel rear cover plate bolt and nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

38

28

Big-end bearing cap bolts:

 

 

1st stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20

15

2nd stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Tighten through 45°

 

Main bearing ladder-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Oil rail-to-main bearing ladder nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

7

Oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

7

Sump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

42

31

Engine/transmission right-hand mounting:

 

 

Bracket-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Mounting-to-bracket nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

100

74

Mounting-to-body through-bolt and nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

85

63

Engine/transmission left-hand mounting:

 

 

Mounting-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Mounting-to-transmission bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

60

44

Transmission bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

100

74

Engine/transmission rear mounting:

 

 

Mounting bracket-to-transmission bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

85

63

Connecting link-to- transmission bracket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

60

44

Connecting link-to-body bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

85

63

Anti-beaming bracket-to-support bracket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

1General information and precautions

How to use this Chapter

This Part of the Chapter describes those repair procedures that can reasonably be carried out on the engine whilst it remains in the vehicle. If the engine has been removed from the vehicle and is being dismantled as described in Part B of this Chapter, any preliminary dismantling procedures can be ignored.

Note that whilst it may be possible physically to overhaul items such as the piston/connecting rod assemblies with the engine in the vehicle, such tasks are not usually carried out as separate operations and usually require the execution of several

additional procedures (not to mention the cleaning of components and of oilways). For this reason, all such tasks are classed as major overhaul procedures and are described in Part B of this Chapter.

Engine information

The engine is of four-cylinder, in-line type, mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle with the clutch and transmission on its left-hand end. The engine is available in two forms - the K8 engine, which is the eight-valve single overhead camshaft engine fitted to the carburettor-equipped 214 S model, and the K16 engine, which is a sixteen-valve double overhead camshaft engine which is fitted to all fuel-injected models. Apart from the different cylinder head designs, both engines are of identical construction.

Apart from the pressed steel sump, the plastic timing belt covers and the aluminium

alloy cylinder head cover, the engine consists of three major castings which are the cylinder head, the cylinder block/crankcase and the crankshaft main bearing ladder. There is also an oil rail underneath the main bearing ladder and the camshaft carrier/bearing caps.

All major castings are of aluminium alloy and are clamped together by ten long through-bolts which perform the dual role of cylinder head bolts and crankshaft main bearing fasteners. Since these bolts pass through the cylinder block/crankcase and the main bearing ladder, the oil rail is secured also to the main bearing ladder (by two nuts) and the main bearing ladder is secured also to the cylinder block/crankcase (by ten smaller bolts) so that the cylinder head can be removed without disturbing the rest of the engine. The passages provided for the bolts in the major castings are used as breather passages or as returns for the oil to the sump.

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•5

The crankshaft runs in five main bearings. Thrustwashers are fitted to the centre main bearing (upper half) to control crankshaft endfloat.

The connecting rods rotate on horizontallysplit bearing shells at their big-ends. The pistons are attached to the connecting rods by gudgeon pins which are an interference fit in the connecting rod small-end eyes. The aluminium alloy pistons are fitted with three piston rings, comprising two compression rings and an oil control ring.

The cylinder bores are formed by replaceable wet liners which are located from their top ends. Two sealing rings are fitted at the base of each liner to prevent the escape of coolant into the sump.

The inlet and exhaust valves are each closed by coil springs and operate in guides pressed into the cylinder head. The valve seat inserts are pressed into the cylinder head and can be renewed separately if worn.

On the K8 engine, the camshaft is driven by a toothed timing belt and operates the eight valves via self-adjusting hydraulic tappets, thus eliminating the need for routine checking and adjustment of the valve clearances. The camshaft rotates in six bearings that are linebored direct in the cylinder head and the (bolted-on) bearing caps. This means that the bearing caps are not available separately from the cylinder head and must not be interchanged with others from another engine. The distributor is driven from the left-hand end of the camshaft and the mechanical fuel pump is operated by an eccentric on the camshaft.

Apart from the fact that it has two camshafts, one inlet and one exhaust, each controlling eight valves and both retained by a single camshaft carrier, the same applies to the K16 engine. On the K16 engine, the distributor is driven from the left-hand end of the inlet camshaft. The fuel pump is electrically-operated.

On both engine types, the coolant pump is driven by the timing belt.

Lubrication is by means of an eccentricrotor trochoidal pump mounted on the crankshaft right-hand end. It draws oil through a strainer located in the sump and then forces it through an externally-mounted full-flow cartridge-type filter into galleries in the oil rail and cylinder block/crankcase, from where it is distributed to the crankshaft (main bearings) and camshaft(s). The big-end bearings are supplied with oil via internal drillings in the crankshaft, while the camshaft bearings and the hydraulic tappets receive a pressurised supply. The camshaft lobes and valves are lubricated by splash, as are all other engine components.

Repair operations possible with the engine in the car

The following work can be carried out with the engine in the vehicle:

a) Compression pressure - testing.

b)Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting.

c)Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting.

d)Timing belt covers - removal and refitting.

e)Timing belt - removal, refitting and adjustment.

f)Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal and refitting.

g)Camshaft oil seal(s) - renewal.

h)Camshaft(s) and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and refitting.

i)Cylinder head - removal and refitting.

j)Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising.

k)Sump - removal and refitting.

l)Oil pump - removal, overhaul and refitting.

m)Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.

n)Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal.

o)Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting.

Precautions

Note that a side-effect of the above described engine design is that the crankshaft cannot be rotated once the cylinder head and block through-bolts have been slackened. During any servicing or overhaul work the crankshaft always must be rotated to the desired position before the bolts are disturbed.

2 Engine oil and filter - renewal

1 Details of checking the engine oil levels and renewing both the oil and filter are contained in “Weekly Checks” and Chapter 1.

3 Compression test -

2

description and interpretation

1 When engine performance is down, or if misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to the ignition or fuel systems, a compression test can provide diagnostic clues as to the engine’s condition. If the test is performed regularly it can give warning of trouble before any other symptoms become apparent.

2 The engine must be fully warmed up to normal operating temperature, the battery must be fully charged and the spark plugs must be removed. The aid of an assistant will be required.

3 Disable the ignition system by disconnecting the ignition HT coil lead from the distributor cap and earthing it on the cylinder block. Use a jumper lead or similar wire to make a good connection.

4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1 cylinder spark plug hole. The type of tester which screws into the plug thread is preferred

(see illustration).

5 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide

 

open and crank the engine on the starter

 

motor. After one or two revolutions, the

 

compression pressure should build up to a

 

maximum figure and then stabilise. Record

 

the highest reading obtained.

 

6 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,

 

recording the pressure in each.

 

7 All cylinders should produce very similar

 

pressures. Any difference greater than that

 

specified indicates the existence of a fault.

 

Note that the compression should build up

 

quickly in a healthy engine. Low compression

 

on the first stroke, followed by gradually

 

increasing pressure on successive strokes,

 

indicates worn piston rings. A low

 

compression reading on the first stroke, which

 

does not build up during successive strokes,

 

indicates leaking valves or a blown head

 

gasket (a cracked head could also be the

 

cause). Deposits on the undersides of

 

the valve heads can also cause low

 

compression.

 

8 If the pressure in any cylinder is reduced to

 

the specified minimum or less, carry out the

 

following test to isolate the cause. Introduce a

 

teaspoonful of clean oil into that cylinder

 

through its spark plug hole and repeat the

 

test.

 

9 If the addition of oil temporarily improves

 

the compression pressure, this indicates that

 

bore or piston wear is responsible for the

 

pressure loss. No improvement suggests that

 

leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head

 

gasket, may be to blame.

 

10 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders

 

is almost certainly due to the head gasket

2A

having blown between them and the presence

of coolant in the engine oil will confirm this.

11If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower than the others and the engine has a slightly rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be the cause.

12If the compression reading is unusually high, the combustion chambers are probably coated with carbon deposits. If this is the case, the cylinder head should be removed and decarbonised.

13On completion of the test, refit the spark plugs and reconnect the ignition system.

3.4 Measuring compression pressure

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

2A•6 Engine in-car repair procedures

4 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for

2

number one piston - locating

General

1 The crankshaft pulley, crankshaft and camshaft sprockets are provided by the factory with clear marks which align only at 90° BTDC. This positions the pistons half-way up the bores so that there is no risk of damage as the engine is reassembled. These marks do not indicate TDC. Use only the ignition timing marks, as described in this Section, to find TDC.

2Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point in its travel up-and-down the cylinder bore that each piston reaches as the crankshaft rotates. While each piston reaches TDC both at the top of the compression stroke and again at the top of the exhaust stroke, for the purpose of timing the engine, TDC refers to the piston position (usually No 1) at the top of its compression stroke.

3While all engine reassembly procedures use the factory timing marks (90° BTDC), it is useful for several other servicing procedures to be able to position the engine at TDC.

4No 1 piston and cylinder is at the right-hand (timing belt) end of the engine. Note that the crankshaft rotates clockwise when viewed from the right-hand side of the vehicle.

Locating TDC

5Disconnect the battery negative lead and remove all the spark plugs.

6Trace No 1 spark plug (HT) lead from the plug back to the distributor cap and use chalk or similar to mark the distributor body or engine casting nearest to the cap’s No 1 terminal. Undo the distributor cap retaining screws and remove the cap.

7Apply the handbrake and ensure that the transmission is in neutral, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the right-hand roadwheel.

8From underneath the front of the vehicle, slacken and remove the three bolts securing the bumper flange to the body. Remove the seven bolts securing the front undercover panel to the body and remove the panel to gain access to the crankshaft pulley and ignition timing marks.

9Using a spanner, or socket and extension bar, applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the notch on the crankshaft pulley’s inboard (left-hand) rim is aligned with the TDC mark on the timing belt lower cover (see Chapter 1 for details of ignition timing marks).

10With the crankshaft in this position, Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are now at TDC, one of them on the compression stroke. If the distributor rotor arm is pointing at (the previously-marked) No 1 terminal, then No 1 cylinder is correctly positioned. If the rotor arm is pointing at No 4 terminal, rotate the crankshaft one full turn (360°) clockwise until the arm points at the

cylinder head cover - K8 engine

marked terminal. No 1 cylinder will then be at TDC on the compression stroke.

11 Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any of the other cylinders can then be located by rotating the crankshaft clockwise 180° at a time and following the firing order.

5 Cylinder head cover -

2

removal and refitting

 

 

 

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2Remove the air cleaner assembly and metal intake duct.

3Using a suitable pair of pliers, release the retaining clip(s) and disconnect the breather hose(s) from the cylinder head cover (see illustrations).

K8 engines

4 Undo the bolts securing the HT lead mounting and air intake support brackets to the cylinder head cover, then remove the brackets and position the HT leads clear of the cover.

5 Remove the two uppermost retaining screws securing the timing belt upper righthand/outer cover to the cylinder head cover, then slacken the remaining screws and bolts, as necessary, until the timing belt cover can be prised clear of the cylinder head cover without damaging it.

6 Working progressively and in the reverse of the tightening sequence (see illustration 5.14),

cylinder head cover groove . . .

cylinder head cover - K16 engine

slacken and remove the cylinder head cover retaining bolts.

7 Remove the cover, peel off the rubber seal and check it for cuts, other damage or distortion. Renew the seal if necessary.

K16 engines

8 Undo the two spark plug cover retaining screws and lift off the cover. Disconnect the HT leads from the plugs and withdraw them from the cylinder head, along with the clip plate and the grommet which is fitted to the left-hand end of the cylinder head cover.

9Working progressively and in the reverse of the tightening sequence (see illustration 5.22), slacken and remove the cylinder head cover retaining bolts, noting the correct fitted position of the air intake duct support bracket.

10Carefully lift off the cylinder head cover, taking care not to damage the gasket. Check that the gasket sealing path is undamaged and is attached to the gasket all around its periphery. If the sealing path is undamaged, then the gasket is re-usable and should remain in place on the cover until reassembly, unless its removal is necessary for other servicing work.

Refitting

K8 engines

11 On reassembly, carefully clean the cylinder head mating surfaces and the cover seal’s groove and remove all traces of oil.

12 Seat the seal in its groove in the cover and refit the bolts, pushing each through the seal, then apply a smear of silicone-RTV sealant to each corner of the seal (see illustrations).

at locations arrowed - K8 engine

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Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•7

5.14 Cylinder head cover bolt tightening sequence - K8 engine

13 Refit the cover to the cylinder head, ensuring that the seal remains seated in its groove. Fit all bolts, finger-tight.

14Tighten the cylinder head cover bolts in the sequence shown to the specified torque wrench setting (see illustration).

15Refit the timing belt upper righthand/outer cover to the cylinder head cover and tighten all the disturbed screws and bolts to the specified torque setting.

16Refit the HT lead mounting clips and air cleaner intake support brackets to the cylinder head, then tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque. Ensure the HT leads are correctly routed.

17Connect the breather hose to the cylinder head cover and secure it in position with the retaining clip.

18Refit the air cleaner housing and reconnect the battery negative lead.

K16 engines

19On reassembly, carefully clean the mating surfaces, removing all traces of oil. If the gasket has been removed, the oil separator elements can be cleaned by removing them from the cover and washing them in solvent. Use compressed air to blow dry the elements before refitting them to the cover.

20If a new gasket is to be fitted, press it onto the cover locating dowels so that if it were laid on the camshaft carrier its stamped markings would be legible. The TOP mark should be nearest the inlet manifold and the EXH MAN SIDE mark should have its arrows pointing to the exhaust manifold (see illustrations).

21Lower the cover onto the cylinder head, ensuring that the gasket is not damaged or displaced. Install the cover retaining bolts, not forgetting to refit the air intake duct support bracket to its original position, and tighten them finger-tight.

22Working in the sequence shown, tighten the cylinder head cover retaining bolts to the specified torque setting (see illustration).

23Reconnect the HT leads to the spark plugs, then locate the clip plate and grommet in the left-hand end of the cylinder head cover. Ensure the HT leads are correctly routed then refit the spark plug cover and tighten its retaining screws to the specified

dowels (arrowed) so that . . .

torque. Tighten the air intake support bracket screws.

24Connect both the breather hoses to the cylinder head cover and secure them in position with the retaining clips.

25Refit the air cleaner housing and reconnect the battery negative lead.

6 Crankshaft pulley -

2

removal and refitting

 

 

 

Removal

1Apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the right-hand roadwheel.

2From underneath the front of the vehicle, slacken and remove the three bolts securing the bumper flange to the body. Remove the seven bolts securing the front undercover panel to the body and remove the panel.

3If necessary, rotate the crankshaft until the relevant timing marks align.

4Remove the power steering pump and/or alternator drivebelt(s) (as applicable).

5To prevent crankshaft rotation while the pulley bolt is unscrewed, select top gear and have an assistant apply the brakes firmly. If the engine has been removed from the

5.22 Cylinder head cover bolt tightening sequence - K16 engine

as shown if gasket were placed on camshaft carrier

vehicle, lock the flywheel using the arrangement shown (see illustration 18.2).

6 Unscrew the pulley bolt, noting the special washer behind it, then remove the pulley from the crankshaft.

Refitting

7 Align the crankshaft pulley centre notch with the locating lug on the crankshaft timing belt sprocket then refit the washer, ensuring that its flat surface is facing the pulley. Fit the retaining bolt (see illustration).

8 Lock the crankshaft by the method used on removal and tighten the pulley retaining bolt to the specified torque setting.

9 Refit the power steering pump and/or alternator drivebelt(s) (as applicable) and adjust them as described in Chapter 1.

10 Refit the undercover panel and roadwheel

then lower the vehicle to the ground.

2A

7 Timing belt covers -

4

removal and refitting

 

 

 

Removal

Upper right-hand (outer) cover

1 Slacken the bolt situated at the cover’s bottom corner, immediately behind the engine/gearbox unit right-hand mounting bracket.

centre fits over crankshaft timing belt sprocket locating lug (arrowed)

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Rover 214 1989 1995 User Manual

2A•8 Engine in-car repair procedures

7.2a Timing belt upper right-hand (outer) cover fasteners - K8 engine

1Slacken screw - cover should be slotted

2Remove fasteners

2 Unscrew the remaining cover retaining bolts and withdraw the cover, noting the rubber seal fitted to the mounting bracket edge. Note that if the cover is not slotted at the bottom corner screw’s location, the screw

7.9a Timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover fasteners (arrowed) - K8 engine

7.9b Timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover fasteners (arrowed) - K16 engine

7.2b Timing belt upper right-hand (outer) cover fasteners (arrowed) - K16 engine, raised for clarity

will have to be removed fully. If this is the case, the cover can be slotted to ease future removal and refitting (see illustrations).

Lower cover

3Remove the crankshaft pulley.

4Remove the cover retaining screws, including the one which also secures the upper cover’s bottom front corner. Remove the cover whilst noting the rubber seal fitted to its mounting bracket edge (see illustration).

Upper left-hand (inner) cover

5Remove the timing belt.

6Remove the camshaft sprocket(s) and the timing belt tensioner.

7Unscrew the bolt securing the cover to the coolant pump.

8On K16 engines, unbolt the engine/gearbox unit right-hand mounting bracket from the cylinder block/crankcase.

9Remove the remaining cover retaining bolts and withdraw the cover (see illustrations).

Lower cover

12 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that the seal fits correctly between the cover and the mounting bracket and tighten the cover fasteners to the specified torque setting.

Upper left-hand (inner) cover

13 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten all disturbed fasteners to their specified torque wrench settings.

8 Timing belt - removal,

4

inspection, refitting and

adjustment

If the timing belt is to be reused, use white paint or similar to mark the direction of rotation on the belt.

Refitting

Upper right-hand (outer) cover

10Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that the seal fits correctly between the cover and the mounting bracket and that the cover edges mate correctly with those of the inner cover and (K8 engines only) cylinder head cover (see illustration).

11Tighten the cover fasteners to the specified torque setting.

7.9c Removing timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover - K16 engine

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2To improve access to the timing belt, remove the expansion tank mounting bolts then free the coolant hose from any relevant retaining clips and position the tank clear of the engine. On models equipped with powerassisted steering, undo all the power steering hose retaining clip bolts then slide the fluid reservoir out of its retaining clip and position it

7.10 Ensure timing belt upper right-hand (outer) cover engages correctly with cylinder head cover - K8 engine

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Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•9

8.6 Crankshaft pulley mark aligned with timing belt lower cover mark at 90° BTDC

clear of the timing belt covers. Take great care not to place any undue strain on hoses and mop up any spilt fluid immediately.

3Remove the timing belt upper right-hand (outer) cover.

4Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the right-hand roadwheel

5From underneath the front of the vehicle, slacken and remove the three bolts securing the bumper flange to the body. Remove the seven bolts securing the front undercover panel to the body and remove the panel to gain access to the crankshaft pulley bolt.

6Using a suitable spanner or socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise direction until the long whitepainted mark on the crankshaft pulley’s outboard (right-hand) face is aligned with the single, separate mark on the timing belt lower cover so that the crankshaft is in the 90° BTDC position (see Chapter 1 for details of the pulley/cover marks) (see illustration).

7Check that the camshaft sprocket mark(s) align as described in paragraph 15, showing that Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are at 90° BTDC so that there is no risk of the valves contacting the pistons during dismantling and reassembly. If the camshaft sprocket mark(s) are 180° out, rotate the crankshaft through one complete turn (360°) to align the marks as described (see illustration).

8On K16 engines, use the tool described in Section 9 to lock up the camshaft sprockets

8.7 Camshaft sprocket marks (A) aligned with timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover mark (B) - K16 engine

so that they cannot move under valve spring pressure when the timing belt is removed.

9Remove the crankshaft sprocket and timing belt lower cover.

10Position a trolley jack with a wooden spacer beneath the sump then gently jack it up to take the weight of the engine.

11Slacken and remove the engine/gearbox unit right-hand mounting through-bolt and nut and the mounting-to-bracket nuts. Remove the mounting, along with the two rubber washers which are fitted on each side of the mounting. On K8 engines only, unscrew the retaining bolts securing the bracket to cylinder block/crankcase and remove it from the engine unit (see illustration).

12Slacken both the timing belt tensioner pulley Allen screw and the tensioner backplate clamp bolt through half a turn each, then push the pulley assembly downwards to remove all the tension from the timing belt. Hold the tensioner pulley in this position and re-tighten the backplate clamp bolt securely

(see illustration).

13Slip the belt off the sprockets (see illustration). Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt has been refitted.

Inspection

14 Check the timing belt carefully for any signs of uneven wear, splitting or oil contamination and renew it if there is the slightest doubt about its condition. If the engine is undergoing an overhaul and has

hand mounting bracket - K8 engine

covered more than 48 000 miles (80 000 km) since the original belt was fitted, renew the belt as a matter of course, regardless of its apparent condition. If signs of oil contamination are found, trace the source of the oil leak and rectify it, then wash down the engine timing belt area and all related components to remove all traces of oil.

Refitting

15 On reassembly, thoroughly clean the timing belt sprockets and check that they are aligned as follows. It is most important that these marks are aligned exactly as this sets valve timing. Note that in this position, Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are at 90° BTDC so that there is no risk of the valves contacting the pistons during dismantling and reassembly.

a) Camshaft sprocket on K8 engine - The EX

line and the mark stamped on the 2A sprocket rim must be at the front (looking

at the sprocket from the right-hand side of the vehicle) and aligned exactly with the cylinder head top surface (see illustration).

b)Camshaft sprockets on K16 engine - Both EXHAUST arrow marks must point to the rear (looking at the sprockets from the right-hand side of the vehicle) with the IN lines and the sprocket rim marks aligned exactly with the line on the timing belt upper left-hand/inner cover (representing the cylinder head top surface). See illustration 8.7.

8.12 Timing belt tensioner pulley bolt (A) and tensioner backplate clamp bolt (B)

8.13 Mark direction of rotation of timing

8.15a Camshaft sprocket marks (A)

belt before removal

aligned with cylinder head top surface (B) -

 

K8 engine

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2A•10 Engine in-car repair procedures

aligned on each side of oil pump raised rib (B)

c)Crankshaft sprocket - The two dots must be positioned on each side of the raised rib on the oil pump body (see illustration).

16If a used belt is being refitted, ensure that the arrow mark made on removal points in the normal direction of rotation. Fit the timing belt over the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets, ensuring that the belt front run (and, on K16 engines, the top run) is taut, ie: all slack is on the tensioner pulley side of the belt, then fit the belt over the coolant pump sprocket and tensioner pulley. Do not twist the belt sharply during refitting and ensure that the belt teeth are correctly seated centrally in the sprockets and that the timing marks remain in alignment

(see illustration)..

17Slacken the tensioner backplate clamp bolt and check that the tensioner pulley moves to tension the belt. If the tensioner assembly is not free to move under spring tension, rectify the fault or the timing belt will not be correctly tensioned.

18On K16 engines, remove the camshaft sprocket locking tool.

19On K8 engines, refit the engine/gearbox unit right-hand mounting bracket, tightening its bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.

20On all engines, refit the timing belt lower cover and the crankshaft pulley.

21Using a suitable spanner or socket, rotate the crankshaft two full turns clockwise to settle and tension the belt. Realign the crankshaft pulley (90° BTDC) mark and check that the sprocket timing mark(s) are still correctly aligned.

22If all is well, first tighten the tensioner pulley backplate clamp bolt to the specified torque, then tighten the tensioner pulley Allen screw to the specified torque.

23Reassemble the engine/gearbox unit right-hand mounting, ensuring that the rubber washers are correctly located, then tighten the mounting nuts and bolts to their specified torque settings. Remove the jack from underneath the engine unit.

24Refit the front undercover panel and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground.

25Refit the timing belt upper right-hand (outer) cover.

K16 engine

26Where necessary, refit the power steering fluid reservoir to the mounting bracket and secure the hydraulic hose clamps in position with the retaining bolts.

27Refit the coolant expansion tank and tighten the mounting bolts securely. Secure the coolant hose in position with any necessary retaining clips and reconnect the battery negative lead.

Adjustment

28 As the timing belt is a ‘fit-and-forget’ type, the manufacturer states that tensioning need only be carried out when a belt is (re)fitted. No

re-tensioning is recommended once a belt has been fitted and therefore this operation is not included in the manufacturer’s maintenance schedule.

29 If the timing belt is thought to be incorrectly tensioned, then adjust the tension as described in paragraphs 1 to 7, 17, 21, 22 and 24 to 27 above.

30 If the timing belt has been disturbed, adjust its tension following the same procedure, omitting as appropriate the irrelevant preliminary dismantling/reassembly steps.

9 Timing belt tensioner and

4

sprockets - removal,

inspection and refitting

If both camshaft sprockets on K16 engines are to be

removed, it is good practice to mark them (inlet or

exhaust) so that they can be returned to their original locations on reassembly.

Note: This Section describes as individual operations the removal and refitting of the components concerned. If more than one

 

9.2a Timing belt, sprockets and covers - K8 engine

1

Timing belt upper right-

12

Crankshaft pulley

20

Pillar bolt

 

hand (outer) cover

13

Washer

21

Timing belt

2

Seal

14

Crankshaft pulley bolt

22

Crankshaft sprocket

3

Bolt

15

Timing belt tensioner

23

Camshaft sprocket

4

Bolt

 

pulley assembly

24

Camshaft sprocket bolt

5

Bolt

16

Tensioner pulley Allen

25

Washer

6

Shouldered bolt

 

screw

26

Timing belt upper left-

7

Timing belt lower cover

17

Tensioner backplate

 

hand (inner) cover

8

Seal

 

clamp bolt

27

Bolt - cover to water

9

Seal

18

Tensioner pulley spring

 

pump

10

Bolt

19

Sleeve

28

Bolt

11

Bolt

 

 

 

 

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Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•11

 

9.2b Timing belt, sprockets and covers - K16 engine

1

Timing belt upper right-

10

Washer

18

Tensioner pulley spring

 

hand (outer) cover

11

Crankshaft pulley bolt

19

Sleeve

2

Bolt

12

Timing belt

20

Pillar bolt

3

Seal

13

Camshaft sprockets

21

Tensioner backplate

4

Bolt

14

Bolt

 

clamp bolt

5

Timing belt lower cover

15

Washer

22

Crankshaft sprocket

6

Seal

16

Timing belt tensioner

23

Timing belt upper left-

7

Bolt

 

pulley assembly

 

hand (inner) cover

8

Bolt

17

Tensioner pulley Allen

24

Bolt

9

Crankshaft pulley

 

screw

 

 

component needs to be removed at the same time, start by removing the timing belt, then remove each component as described below whilst ignoring the preliminary dismantling steps.

Removal

1Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2To improve access to the timing belt components (see illustrations), remove the expansion tank mounting bolts then free the coolant hose from any relevant retaining clips and position the tank clear of the engine. On models equipped with power-assisted steering, undo all the power steering hose retaining clip bolts then slide the fluid

reservoir out of its retaining clip and position it clear of the timing belt covers. Take great care not to place any undue strain on hoses and mop up any spilt fluid immediately.

3Remove the timing belt upper right-hand (outer) cover.

4Apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the right-hand roadwheel.

5From underneath the front of the vehicle, slacken and remove the three bolts securing the bumper flange to the body. Remove the seven bolts securing the front undercover panel to the body and remove the panel.

6Using a suitable spanner or socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft in

a clockwise direction until the long whitepainted mark on the crankshaft pulley’s outboard (right-hand) face is aligned with the single, separate mark on the timing belt lower cover so that the crankshaft is in the 90° BTDC position (see Chapter 1 for details of the pulley/cover marks).

7 Check that the camshaft sprocket mark(s) align as described in Section 8, paragraph 15 then proceed as described under the relevant sub-heading.

Camshaft sprocket(s)

8Slacken through half a turn each, the timing belt tensioner pulley Allen screw and the tensioner backplate clamp bolt. Push the pulley assembly down to release all tension from the timing belt, then re-tighten the backplate clamp bolt securely.

9Remove the belt from the camshaft sprocket(s), taking care not to twist it too sharply. Use fingers only to handle the belt. Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt is refitted.

10On K8 engines, slacken the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and remove it, along with its washer. To prevent the camshaft from rotating, use Rover service tool 18G 1521 to retain the sprocket. If the tool is not available, then an acceptable substitute can be fabricated from two lengths of steel strip (one long, the other short) and three nuts and bolts. One nut and bolt should form the pivot of a forked tool with the remaining two nuts and bolts at the tips of the forks to engage with the sprocket spokes, as shown in illus-

tration 9.23a.

11 On K16 engines, unscrew the appropriate 2A camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and remove it,

along with its washer. To prevent a camshaft from rotating, lock together both sprockets using Rover service tool 18G 1570. This tool is a metal sprag shaped on both sides to fit the sprocket teeth and is inserted between the sprockets. If the tool is not available, then an acceptable substitute can be cut from a length of square-section steel tube or similar to fit as closely as possible around the sprocket spokes (see illustrations).

12 On all engines, remove the sprocket(s) from the camshaft end(s), noting the locating roll pin(s) (see illustration). If a roll pin is a

9.11a Camshaft locking tool cut from steel section . . .

9.11b . . . to fit sprocket spokes as closely as possible - K16 engine

9.12 Removing camshaft sprocket (roll pin arrowed) - K8 engine

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2A•12 Engine in-car repair procedures

loose fit in the camshaft end, remove it and store it with the sprocket for safe-keeping.

Crankshaft sprocket

13On K16 engines, use the tool described in paragraph 11 to lock together the camshaft sprockets so that they cannot move under valve spring pressure when the timing belt is removed.

14Remove the crankshaft pulley and timing belt lower cover.

15Slacken through half a turn each the timing belt tensioner pulley Allen screw and the tensioner backplate clamp bolt, push the pulley assembly down to release all the tension from the timing belt, then re-tighten the backplate clamp bolt securely.

16Work the belt clear of the crankshaft sprocket, taking care not to twist it too sharply. Use fingers only to handle the belt. Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt is refitted.

17Remove the sprocket from the crankshaft.

Tensioner assembly

18On K16 engines, use the tool described in paragraph 11 to lock together the camshaft sprockets so that they cannot move under valve spring pressure when the timing belt is removed.

19Using a suitable pair of pliers, unhook the tensioner spring from the pillar bolt. Unscrew the tensioner pulley Allen screw and the tensioner backplate clamp bolt then withdraw the tensioner assembly from the engine unit. Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt is re-tensioned.

Inspection

20Clean thoroughly the camshaft/crankshaft sprockets and renew any that show signs of wear, damage or cracks.

21Clean the tensioner assembly but do not use any strong solvent which may enter the pulley bearing. Check that the pulley rotates freely on the backplate, with no sign of stiffness or of free play. Renew the assembly if there is any doubt about its condition or if

9.22 Camshaft sprockets have two keyways. Engage EX keyway with exhaust camshaft roll pin and IN keyway with inlet camshaft roll pin - K16 engine

there are any obvious signs of wear or damage. The same applies to the tensioner spring, which should be checked with great care as its condition is critical for the correct tensioning of the timing belt.

Refitting

Camshaft sprocket(s)

22 If removed, refit the roll pin to the camshaft end, ensuring that its split is facing the centre of the camshaft, then refit the sprocket so that the timing marks are facing outwards (to the right). On K16 engines, ensure that the appropriate sprocket keyway engages with the camshaft locating pin (ie: if refitting the inlet camshaft sprocket, engage its IN keyway with the roll pin and so on) then refit the sprocket retaining bolt and washer (see illustration). Where necessary, repeat the procedure for the second sprocket.

23Prevent the sprocket(s) from rotating by using the method employed on removal, then tighten the sprocket retaining bolt(s) to the specified torque setting. Check that the sprocket timing marks align as described in Section 8, paragraph 15 (see illustrations).

24Fit the timing belt over the camshaft sprockets, ensuring that the belt front run (and, on K16 engines, the top run) is taut, that is, all slack is on the tensioner pulley side of the belt. Do not twist the belt sharply while refitting it and ensure that the belt teeth are correctly seated centrally in the sprockets and that the timing marks remain in alignment.

25Slacken the tensioner backplate clamp bolt and check that the tensioner pulley moves to tension the belt. If the tensioner assembly is not free to move under spring tension, rectify the fault or the timing belt will not be correctly tensioned.

26On K16 engines, remove the camshaft sprocket locking tool.

27Using a suitable spanner or socket, rotate the crankshaft two full turns clockwise to settle and tension the belt. Realign the crankshaft pulley (90° BTDC) mark and check that the sprocket timing mark(s) are still correctly aligned.

camshaft pulley in position - K8 engine

28If all is well, first tighten the tensioner pulley backplate clamp bolt to the specified torque, then tighten the tensioner pulley Allen screw to the specified torque.

29Refit the front undercover panel and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground.

30Refit the timing belt upper right-hand (outer) cover.

31Where necessary, refit the power steering fluid reservoir to the mounting bracket and secure the hydraulic hose clamps in position with the retaining bolts.

32Refit the coolant expansion tank and tighten the mounting bolts securely. Secure the coolant hose in position with any necessary retaining clips and reconnect the battery negative lead.

Crankshaft sprocket

33Refit the sprocket to the crankshaft so that it locates correctly on the crankshaft’s flattened section, noting that the sprocket flange must be innermost so that the two timing marks are on the outside (right-hand side) of the sprocket. Check that the sprocket timing marks align as described in Section 8, paragraph 15.

34Fit the timing belt over the crankshaft sprocket, ensuring that the belt front run (and, on K16 engines, the top run) is taut, that is, all slack is on the tensioner pulley side of the

belt. Do not twist the belt sharply while refitting it and ensure that the belt teeth are correctly seated centrally in the sprockets and that the timing marks remain in alignment.

35Slacken the tensioner backplate clamp bolt and check that the tensioner pulley moves to tension the belt. If the tensioner assembly is not free to move under spring tension, rectify the fault or the timing belt will not be correctly tensioned.

36On K16 engines, remove the camshaft sprocket locking tool.

37Refit the lower timing belt cover and the crankshaft pulley.

38Carry out the operations described in paragraphs 27 to 32.

9.23b Locking camshafts in position with fabricated tool - K16 engine

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Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•13

correctly hooked onto pillar bolt

Tensioner pulley

39Refit the tensioner pulley assembly and tighten the pulley Allen screw and the backplate clamp bolt lightly. Hook the tensioner spring over the pillar bolt and check that the tensioner is free to move under spring tension and that the pulley bears correctly against the timing belt (see illustration).

40On K16 engines, remove the camshaft sprocket locking tool.

41Carry out the operations described above in paragraphs 27 to 32.

10 Camshaft oil seals - renewal 4

Note: If a right-hand oil seal is to be renewed with the timing belt still in place, then check that the belt is free from oil contamination. Renew the belt if signs of oil contamination are found. Cover the belt to protect it from contamination while work is in progress and ensure that all traces of oil are removed from the area before the belt is refitted.

Right-hand seal(s)

1Remove the camshaft sprocket(s).

2Punch or drill two small holes opposite each other in the oil seal. Screw a self-tapping screw into each and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal.

3Clean the seal housing and polish off any burrs or raised edges which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place.

4Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil and drive it into position until it seats on its locating shoulder. Use a suitable tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears only on the hard outer edge of the seal (see illustration). Take care not to damage the seal lips during fitting and note that the seal lips should face inwards.

5Refit the camshaft sprocket(s).

Left-hand seals - K16 engines

6Disconnect the battery negative lead.

7To reach the inlet camshaft seal, remove the distributor.

8To reach the exhaust camshaft seal,

10.4 Fitting a new camshaft right-hand oil seal - K16 engine

unfasten the rubber strap securing the air intake duct to its support bracket, disconnect the vacuum pipe from the air temperature control valve and unclip the pipe from the support bracket. Undo the bracket’s retaining bolts and remove the bracket from the cylinder head (see illustration).

9Remove the old seal and install the new one as described above in paragraphs 2 to 4.

10On the inlet camshaft, refit the distributor.

11On the exhaust camshaft, refit the air intake duct support bracket, tightening its screws to the specified torque wrench setting. Reconnect and secure the air temperature control valve vacuum pipe and refit the rubber strap to secure the air intake duct.

12Connect the battery negative lead.

11 Camshafts and hydraulic

4

tappets - removal, inspection

and refitting

If faulty tappets are diagnosed and the engine’s

service history is unknown, it is always worth trying the

effect of renewing the engine oil and filter (using only good quality engine oil of the recommended viscosity and specification) before going to the expense of renewing any of the tappets.

Note: Prior to removing the camshaft(s), obtain Rover sealant kit LVV 10002 which also contains a plastic scraper. Read the instructions supplied with the kit and take care not to allow the sealant to contact the fingers, as it will bond the skin. If difficulty is experienced with the removal of hardened sealant from mating surfaces, it will be necessary to use a foam action gasket remover.

Removal

K8 engines

1 Remove the cylinder head cover (see illustration 11.0a overleaf).

2Remove the distributor.

3Remove the camshaft sprocket.

10.8 Remove air intake duct support bracket to reach exhaust camshaft lefthand oil seal - K16 engine

4Carefully prise the oil feed tube away from the camshaft bearing caps and remove it from the head assembly. Remove the O-rings from the oil rail and discard them. The O-rings must be renewed whenever they are disturbed.

5The camshaft right and left-hand end bearing caps are noticeably different and cannot be confused. The intermediate bearing caps (which are all similar) are marked by the manufacturer with a number (1, 2, 3, or 4) stamped in the boss next to the oil feed hole. Before unbolting any of the caps, make written notes to ensure that each can be easily identified and refitted in its original location.

6Working in the reverse of the tightening sequence (see illustration 11.29), slacken the camshaft bearing cap bolts progressively, by

one turn at a time. Work only as described to 2A release the pressure of the valve springs on

the bearing caps gradually and evenly.

7 Withdraw the bearing caps, noting the presence of the locating dowels on the end caps, then remove the camshaft and withdraw the oil seal.

8 Obtain eight small, clean plastic containers, number them 1 to 8, and then fill them with clean engine oil. Using a rubber sucker, withdraw each hydraulic tappet in turn (see illustration), and place it in its respective container, to prevent oil loss. Do not interchange the hydraulic tappets or the rate of wear will be much increased and do not allow them to lose oil or they will take a long

11.8Use a valve-grinding sucker to extract hydraulic tappets

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

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