Rover 200 User Manual

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Rover 214 & 414

Service and Repair Manual

Mark Coombs and Christopher Rogers

Models covered

Rover 214 and 414 models fitted with eight or sixteen-valve 1397 cc ‘K-series’ engine

Covers major mechanical features of Cabriolet Does not cover Diesel engine models

(1689-288-9AA3)

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 458 7

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil,

Somerset BA22 7JJ Haynes Publishing

Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

Editions Haynes S.A.

147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

Fyrisborgsgatan 5, 754 50 Uppsala, Sverige

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

LIVING WITH YOUR ROVER 214 & 414

Introduction Page 0•4 Safety First! Page 0•5

Roadside Repairs

Introduction Page 0•6 If your car won’t start Page 0•6 Jump starting Page 0•7 Wheel changing Page 0•8 Identifying leaks Page 0•9 Towing Page 0•9

Weekly Checks

Introduction Page 0•10 Underbonnet check points Page 0•10 Engine oil level Page 0•11 Coolant level Page 0•11 Brake fluid level Page 0•12 Screen washer fluid level Page 0•12 Power steering fluid level Page 0•13 Wiper blades Page 0•13 Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•14 Electrical systems Page 0•15 Battery Page 0•15

Lubricants, Fluids, Capacities and Tyre Pressures Page 0•16

MAINTENANCE

Routine Maintenance and Servicing Page 1•1 Maintenance schedule Page 1•3 Maintenance procedures Page 1•6

Contents

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL

Engine and Associated Systems

Engine in-car repair procedures Page 2A•1 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures Page 2B•1 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems Page 3•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor engines Page 4A•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - single-point fuel injected engines Page 4B•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - multi-point fuel injected engines Page 4C•1 Emission control systems Page 4D•1 Ignition system - carburettor engines Page 5A•1 Ignition system - fuel injected engines Page 5B•1 Starting and charging systems Page 5C•1

Transmission

Clutch Page 6•1 Gearbox Page 7•1 Driveshafts Page 8•1

Brakes and Suspension

Braking system Page 9•1 Suspension and steering Page 10•1

Body Equipment

Bodywork and fittings Page 11•1 Body electrical systems Page 12•1

Wiring Diagrams Page 12•20

REFERENCE

Dimensions and Weights Page REF•1 Conversion Factors Page REF•2 Buying Spare Parts and Vehicle Identification Page REF•3 General Repair Procedures Page REF•4 Jacking and Vehicle Support Page REF•5 Radio/cassette Anti-theft System - precaution Page REF•5 Tools and Working Facilities Page REF•6 MOT Test Checks Page REF•8 Fault Finding Page REF•12 Glossary of Technical Terms Page REF•19

Index Page REF•24

Contents

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•4

The Rover 214 Hatchback and 414 Saloon models covered in this Manual are a muchdeveloped version of the original 213 and 216 models first launched in 1984. The 214 five-door model was the first to be introduced in October 1989 and was closely followed by the 414 model introduced in March 1990. The 214 model range was further updated in September 1990 when a three-door variant was introduced.

All models are fitted with the new 1.4 litre ‘K’ series engine. The 214 S model (first introduced in September 1990) has an eightvalve single overhead camshaft version of the engine which is fed by an SU KIF carburettor.

All other 214 and 414 models are equipped with a sixteen-valve double overhead camshaft version of the engine which is controlled by a Rover/Motorola Modular Engine Management System (MEMS) with either single-point fuel injection (SPi) or multipoint fuel injection (MPi). All versions of the engine are able to accept a full range of emission control systems, up to and including a three-way regulated catalytic converter.

The five-speed transmission, which is a joint development by Rover and Peugeot engineers, is of Peugeot design and produced by Rover. The transmission is fitted to the left-

hand end of the engine. The complete engine/transmission unit is mounted transversely across the front of the car and drives the front wheels through unequallength driveshafts.

The front suspension incorporates MacPherson struts and the rear is of the double wishbone type.

Braking is by discs at the front and drums at the rear, with a dual-circuit hydraulic system. On all models in the range, an Antilock Braking System (ABS) was offered as an optional extra. If ABS is fitted, then braking is by discs both at the front and rear.

Rover 114GTa Rover Metro 1.1S

Introduction

Acknowledgements

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action

and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by

avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.

The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence.

Your Rover 214 & 414 Manual

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions, and to Duckhams Oils who provided lubrication data. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who supplied some of the workshop tools, and to

all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this Manual.

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production

run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from the information given.

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•5

Safety First!

Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Scalding

• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot.

• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing

• When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps.

Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack.

• Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive.

• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.

• Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools).

• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit.

• Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.

• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock

• Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication

• Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut.

• Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice.

• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket.

• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Asbestos

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Special hazards

Hydrofluoric acid

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 4000C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed,

the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned.

• When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery.

• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags

• Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body

to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember...

• Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle – especially the electrical system.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

A few tips

DON’T

• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability – get assistance.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•6

Roadside repairs

The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won’t start and the starter motor doesn’t turn

M If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the

selector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’.

M Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals

are clean and tight.

M Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the

headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend’s car.

If your car won’t start even though the starter motor turns as normal

M Is there fuel in the tank? M Is there moisture on electrical components under the

bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector and HT leads. (Note that Diesel engines don’t normally suffer from damp.)

Check that the distributor HT lead connections are clean and secure

Check that the spark plug HT lead connections are clean and secure cover removed

Check that the ignition coil HT and LT lead connections are clean and secure

Check the security and condition of the battery connections

The ECU wiring plugs may cause problems if dirty or not properly connected

Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition off) and spray them with a waterdispersing spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

0•7

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Roadside repairs

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

4 Before connecting the booster

battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.

4 Ensure that all electrical equipment

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

4 Take note of any special precautions

printed on the battery case.

4 Make sure that the booster battery

is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

4 If the battery is being jump-started

from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

4 Make sure that the transmission is in

neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first

place. There are three possibilities:

1) The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on.

2) The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).

3) The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery

Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started

1 2 3

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine

Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection

Jump starting

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•8

Roadside repairs

Location of spare wheel and tools in boot

Wheel changing

Some of the details shown here will vary according to model. For instance, the location of the spare wheel and jack is not the same on all cars. However, the basic principles apply to all vehicles.

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel – it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.

Finally...

M Remove the wheel chocks. M Stow the jack and tools in the correct

locations in the car.

Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure.

M Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired

as soon as possible.

Use the wheel brace to slightly loosen the wheelnuts

Locate the jack head in the correct jacking point

Raise the jack until the wheel is clear of the ground

Remove the trim to expose the wheelnutsUnscrew the spare wheel retaining cap

Remove the wheelnuts and lift off the wheel

Fit the replacement wheel and tighten the nuts

Preparation

M When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as

it is safe to do so.

M Park on firm level ground, if possible,

and well out of the way of other traffic.

M Use hazard warning lights if necessary.

M If you have one, use a warning triangle to

alert other drivers of your presence.

M Apply the handbrake and engage first or

reverse gear (or Park on models with automatic transmission).

M Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the

one being removed – a couple of large stones will do for this.

M If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of

wood to spread the load under the jack.

Changing the wheel

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•9

Roadside repairs

Towing

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

Identifying leaks

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking. Some

fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak.

Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home – or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: M Use a proper tow-rope – they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window. M Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so

that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work. M Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided. M Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. M Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. M On models with power steering, greaterthan-usual steering effort will also be required.

M The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. M Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. M Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions. M On models with automatic transmission, special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not tow, or transmission damage may result.

Sump oil Gearbox oil

Brake fluid Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•10

There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot on inconvenience and expense. These “Weekly Checks” require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could well prove to be very well spent, for example:

mm Keeping an eye on tyre condition and

pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely but could also save your life.

mm Many breakdowns are caused by electrical

problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of these.

mm If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the

first time you might know about it is when your brakes don’t work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem.

mm If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost

of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak.

Underbonnet Check Points

K16 MPi engine with plastic inlet manifold

Introduction

Weekly checks

Engine oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant expansion tank

Brake fluid reservoir

Power steering fluid reservoir

Screen washer fluid reservoir

Battery

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•11

Weekly checks

Engine oil level

Before you start

4 Make sure that your car is on level ground. 4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,

or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.

The correct oil

Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used (see “Lubricants and Fluids” on page 0•16).

Car Care

l If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, then engine may be burning oil (see “Fault Finding”).

l Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks. If the level is too low, severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

Using a clean rag or paper towel, wipe all

the oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it again.

Note the oil level on the end of the

dipstick, which should be between the upper HI mark and the lower LO mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level from the lower mark to the upper mark.

Oil is added through the filler cap. Rotate

the cap through a quarter-turn anticlockwise and withdraw it. Top-up the level. A funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick often. Do not overfill.

The dipstick is located at the rear right-hand

end of the engine (see “Underbonnet Check Points” on page 0•10 for exact location). Withdraw the dipstick.

1 2

3 4

If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will

remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick.

Coolant level

Add a mixture of water and antifreeze

through the expansion tank filler neck, until the coolant is up to the upper level. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far as it will go until it is secure.

If topping-up, wait until the engine is

cold, then cover the filler cap with a layer of rag and start unscrewing the cap. Wait until any hissing ceases, indicating that all pressure is released, then slowly unscrew the cap until it can be removed. At all times keep well away from the filler opening.

When the engine is cold, the coolant level

should be between the expansion tank ridge/seam and the level indicated above COOLANT LEVEL on the side of the expansion tank, which is located in the front right-hand corner of the engine compartment.

1 2 3

Warning: Do not attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is

hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

l With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.

l It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become diluted.

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Warning: Brake fluid can harm

your eyes and damage painted

surfaces, so use extreme

caution when handling and pouring it. Do not use fluid which has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Before you start

4 Make sure that the car is on level ground. 4 Cleanliness is of great importance when

dealing with the braking system, so take care to clean around the reservoir cap before topping-up. Use only clean brake fluid from a container which has stood for at least 24 hours (to allow air bubbles to separate out).

Safety first

l If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup, this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately. l If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.

Brake fluid level

Carefully add fluid avoiding spilling it on

surrounding paintwork. Use only the specified fluid; mixing different types can cause damage to the system. After filling to the correct level, refit the cap securely, to prevent leaks and the entry of foreign matter. Ensure that the fluid level switch plunger is free to move. Wipe off any spilt fluid.

Before adding fluid, it’s a good idea to

inspect the reservoir. The system should be drained and refilled if dirt is seen in the fluid (see Chapter 9 for details).

The brake master cylinder and fluid

reservoir is mounted on the vacuum servo unit in the engine compartment. The MAX and MIN level marks are indicated on the side of the reservoir and the fluid level should be maintained between these marks at all times.

If topping-up is necessary, unplug the

electrical connector and wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag before removing the cap. When adding fluid, pour it carefully into the reservoir to avoid spilling it on surrounding painted surfaces. Be sure to use only the specified brake hydraulic fluid since mixing different types of fluid can cause damage to the system.

3 4

Screen washer fluid level

The reservoir for the windscreen and rear

window (where fitted) washer systems is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment.

When topping-up the reservoir(s) a screenwash additive should be added in

the quantities recommended on the bottle.

Car care

l Screenwash additives not only keep the windscreen clean during bad weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold weather - which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top up using plain water, as the screenwash will become diluted and will freeze in cold weather. l Check the operation of the windscreen and rear window washers. Adjust the nozzles using a pin if necessary, aiming the spray to a point slightly above the centre of the swept area.

Warning: On no account use engine coolant antifreeze in the screen washer system - this will damage the paintwork.

1 2

0•12

Weekly checks

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•13

Weekly checks

To remove a wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from the glass

until it locks. Swivel the blade through 90º, press the locking tab with a finger nail and slide the blade out of the arm’s hooked end. On refitting, ensure that the blade locks securely into the arm.

Check the condition of the wiper blades. If they are cracked or

show any signs of deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. For maximum clarity of vision, wiper blades should be renewed annually, as a matter of course.

After filling the reservoir to the proper

level, make sure that the cap is refitted securely to avoid leaks and the entry of foreign matter into the reservoir.

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the

area around the filler cap with a clean rag before removing the cap. When adding fluid, pour it carefully into the reservoir to avoid spillage. Be sure to use only the specified fluid.

The power steering fluid reservoir is

located on the right-hand side of the engine compartment, just behind the cooling system expansion tank. MAX and MIN level marks are indicated on the side of the reservoir and the fluid level should be maintained between these marks at all times.

Wiper blades

Power steering fluid level

Before you start

4 Make sure that the car is on level ground. 4 Set the front roadwheels in the straight-

ahead position.

4 The engine should be stopped. 4 Do not operate the steering once the

engine is stopped.

Safety first

l If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup, there is a fluid leak somewhere in the system which should be investigated immediately. l If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the power steering system has been checked.

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•14

Weekly checks

It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear (“rotating” the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by “kerbing” whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.

New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car, the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.

Tyre Pressure Check

Check the tyre pressures regularly with

the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately after the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result. Tyre pressures are shown on page 0•16

Tread Depth - manual check

Alternatively tread wear can be

monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.

Tread Depth - visual check

The original tyres have tread wear safety

bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

1 2 3

Tyre condition and pressure

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)

Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension parts

Hard cornering

Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation

Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.

Check and adjust pressures If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s

tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.

Incorrect camber or castor

Repair or renew suspension parts

Malfunctioning suspension

Repair or renew suspension parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•15

Weekly checks

Electrical system

If more than one indicator light or

headlight has failed, it is likely that either a fuse has blown or that there is a fault in the circuit (see Chapter 12).

If a single indicator light, brake light or

headlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb has blown and will need to be replaced. Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both brake lights have failed, it is possible that the brake light switch operated by the brake pedal is faulty. Refer to Chapter 9 for details.

If you need to check your brake lights and indicators unaided, back up to a wall or

garage door and operate the lights. The reflected light should show if they are working properly.

4 Check all external lights and the horn. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for details if any of the circuits are found to be inoperative, and replace the fuse if necessary. Most fuses are located behind the cover in the right-hand lower facia panel. Other fuses are located in the fusebox on the left-hand side of the engine compartment. To replace a blown fuse, pull it from position, using the plastic tool provided. Fit a new fuse of the same rating. If a second fuse blows, it is important that you find the reason - do not use a fuse with a higher rating. 4 Visually check all accessible wiring connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for security, and for signs of chafing or damage.

Battery

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read the precautions given in “Safety first” at the start of this manual.

4 Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition, and that the clamp is tight. Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted. 4 Periodically (approximately every three months), check the charge condition of the battery as described in Chapter 5A. 4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jump start your vehicle, see “Jump starting”.

The battery is located on the left-hand

side of the engine compartment. The exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for damage such as a cracked case or cover.

Check the tightness of battery clamps to

ensure good electrical connections. You should not be able to move them. Also check each cable for cracks and frayed conductors.

If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is

evident, remove the cables from the battery terminals, clean them with a small wire brush, then refit them. Accessory stores sell a useful tool for cleaning the battery post ...

1 2

... as well as the battery cable clamps

Battery corrosion can be kept to a minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly to the clamps and terminals after they are reconnected.

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

0•16

Lubricants, fluids, capacities and tyre pressures

Lubricants and fluids

Capacities

Tyre Pressures (tyres cold)

Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W/40 to spec.

API-SG or SG/CD, CCMC G4, or RES.22.OL.G4

(Duckhams QS, QXR, Hypergrade Plus, Hypergrade, or 10W/40 Motor Oil)

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Antifreeze to spec. BS 6580 and BS 5117. Ethylene-

glycol based with non-phosphate corrosion inhibitors, containing no methanol. Mixture 50% by volume

(Duckhams Antifreeze and Summer Coolant)

Gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Special gearbox oil. Refer to your Rover dealer

(Duckhams Hypoid PT 75W/80 may be used for toppingup only)

Braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic fluid to spec. SAE J 1703 or DOT 4

(Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid)

Power steering system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) to Dexron II D

specification (Duckhams Uni-Matic)

General greasing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multi-purpose lithium-based grease to NLGI consistency

No. 2 (Duckhams LB10)

Engine oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litres - including filter

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.8 litres

Gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litres

Power steering reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2 litres

Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 litres

Washer system reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.1 litres

Front Rear

155 SR 13 tyres

Normal driving conditions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar (30 psi) 2.1 bar (30 psi)

Loads in excess of four persons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar (30 psi) 2.3 bar (34 psi)

Speeds in excess of 100 mph - all loads . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.2 bar (32 psi)

175/65 TR 14 tyres

All loads - up to 100 mph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar (30 psi) 2.1 bar (30 psi)

All loads - over 100 mph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 bar (32 psi) 2.2 bar (32 psi)

185/60 HR 14 tyres

All loads - up to 100 mph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar (30 psi) 2.1 bar (30 psi)

All loads - over 100 mph . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 bar (36 psi) 2.5 bar (36 psi)

Note: Pressures apply only to original equipment tyres and may vary if any other make or type is fitted. Check with the tyre manufacturer or supplier for correct pressures if necessary

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Chapter 2 Part A

Engine in-car repair procedures

Camshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Engine oil and filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Engine/gearbox mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Timing belt - removal, inspection, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . 8

Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Top Dead Centre (TDC) for number one piston - locating . . . . . . . . 4

Valve clearances - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

2A•1

Contents

Specifications

General

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder in-line, four-stroke, liquid-cooled

Designation:

1.4 8-valve sohc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . K8

1.4 16-valve dohc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . K16

Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.00 mm

Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79.00 mm

Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1396 cc

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Compression ratio:

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.75 : 1

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.50 : 1

Minimum compression pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.3 bar

Maximum compression pressure difference between cylinders . . . . . . 1.4 bar

Maximum power (EEC):

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 ps (56 kW) @ 5700 rpm

K8 (with catalytic converter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 ps (55 kW) @ 5500 rpm

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 ps (70 kW) @ 6250 rpm

K16 (with catalytic converter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 ps (66 kW) @ 6250 rpm

Maximum torque (EEC):

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 Nm (86 lbf ft) @ 3500 rpm

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Nm (91 lbf ft) @ 4000 rpm

K16 (with catalytic converter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Nm (89 lbf ft) @ 4000 rpm

Cylinder block/crankcase

Note: Service liners are Grade B

Material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aluminium alloy

Cylinder liner bore diameter - 60 mm from top of bore:

Standard - grade A (Red) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.975 to 74.985 mm

Standard - grade B (Blue) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.986 to 74.995 mm

Service limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.045 mm

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Crankshaft

Number of main bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Main bearing journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.979 to 48.000 mm

Main bearing journal size grades:

Grade A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.993 to 48.000 mm

Grade B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.986 to 47.993 mm

Grade C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47.979 to 47.986 mm

Crankpin journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.986 to 43.007 mm

Crankpin journal size grades:

Grade A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.000 to 43.007 mm

Grade B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.993 to 43.000 mm

Grade C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.986 to 42.993 mm

Main bearing and crankpin journal maximum ovality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.010 mm

Main bearing and big-end bearing running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.021 to 0.049 mm

Crankshaft endfloat:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 to 0.30 mm

Service limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.50 mm

Thrustwasher thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.61 to 2.65 mm

Gudgeon pins

Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.0 mm

Fit in connecting rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Interference

Pistons and piston rings

Note: Service pistons are Grade B

Piston diameter: Grade A Grade B

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.940 to 74.955 mm 74.956 to 74.970 mm

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.945 to 74.960 mm 74.960 to 74.975 mm

Piston-to-bore clearance:

K8 - standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 to 0.045 mm

K16 - standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.010 to 0.040 mm

Service limit - all . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.080 mm

Piston ring end gaps (fitted 20 mm from top of bore):

Top compression ring:

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.45 mm

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.50 mm

Second compression ring - all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.50 mm

Oil control ring:

K8 - standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 1.00 mm

K16:

standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.50 mm

service limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.60 mm

Piston ring-to-groove clearance:

Top compression ring:

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 to 0.09 mm

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 to 0.07 mm

Second compression ring:

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 to 0.08 mm

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 to 0.07 mm

Oil control ring - all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.02 to 0.06 mm

Cylinder head

Material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aluminium alloy

Height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118.95 to 119.05 mm

Reface limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 mm

Maximum acceptable gasket face distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 mm

Valve seat angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45°

Valve seat width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm

Seat cutter correction angle:

Upper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30°

Lower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60°

Valve stem installed height:

K8:

new . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38.95 to 40.81 mm

service limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.06 mm

K16:

new . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38.93 to 39.84 mm

service limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40.10 mm

2A•2 Engine in-car repair procedures

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Valves

Seat angle:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45°

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44° 30’

Head diameter:

Inlet:

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34.0 mm

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.0 mm

Exhaust:

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31.0 mm

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24.0 mm

Stem outside diameter:

Inlet:

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.967 to 6.975 mm

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.952 to 5.967 mm

Exhaust:

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.952 to 6.967 mm

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.947 to 5.962 mm

Guide inside diameter:

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.000 to 7.025 mm

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.000 to 6.025 mm

Stem-to-guide clearance:

Inlet:

standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.03 to 0.04 mm

service limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.07 mm

Exhaust:

standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.07 to 0.08 mm

service limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.11 mm

Valve timing:

K8:

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13° BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47° ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53° BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7° ATDC

K16:

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15° BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45° ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55° BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5° ATDC

Valve spring free length:

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46.2 mm

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.0 mm

Valve guide fitted height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 mm

Camshaft

Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Toothed belt

Number of bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Bearing journal running clearance:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.060 to 0.094 mm

Service limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.150 mm

Camshaft endfloat:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.060 to 0.190 mm

Service limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.500 mm

Valve lift:

K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0 mm

K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.2 mm

Hydraulic tappet outside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.959 to 32.975 mm

Lubrication system

System pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 bar @ idle speed

Oil pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Trochoidal, eccentric-rotor

Oil pump clearances:

Rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.02 to 0.06 mm

Outer rotor-to-body clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.28 to 0.36 mm

Rotor lobe clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 to 0.13 mm

Pressure relief valve operating pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.1 bar

Oil pressure warning lamp lights at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Below 0.3 to 0.5 bar

Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•3

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Spark plug (HT) lead clip screws - K8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Air intake duct support bracket-to-cylinder head screws . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3

Spark plug cover screws - K16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1.5

Cylinder head cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Camshaft bearing cap/carrier-to-cylinder head bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Cylinder head bolts:

1st stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

2nd stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten through 180°

3rd stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten through (a further) 180°

Timing belt cover fasteners:

Upper right-hand (outer) cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3

Lower and upper left-hand (inner) covers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Timing belt tensioner backplate clamp bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 19

Timing belt tensioner pulley Allen screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 24

Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 118

Oil pump-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolt and screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Alternator mounting bracket-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts . . . . . . 45 33

Dipstick tube-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63

Transmission-to-engine bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63

Flywheel cover plate screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Flywheel rear cover plate bolt and nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 28

Big-end bearing cap bolts:

1st stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

2nd stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten through 45°

Main bearing ladder-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Oil rail-to-main bearing ladder nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7

Sump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Engine oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 31

Engine/transmission right-hand mounting:

Bracket-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Mounting-to-bracket nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 74

Mounting-to-body through-bolt and nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63

Engine/transmission left-hand mounting:

Mounting-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

Mounting-to-transmission bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44

Transmission bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 74

Engine/transmission rear mounting:

Mounting bracket-to-transmission bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63

Connecting link-to- transmission bracket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44

Connecting link-to-body bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63

Anti-beaming bracket-to-support bracket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

2A•4 Engine in-car repair procedures

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

1 General information and

precautions

How to use this Chapter

This Part of the Chapter describes those repair procedures that can reasonably be carried out on the engine whilst it remains in the vehicle. If the engine has been removed from the vehicle and is being dismantled as described in Part B of this Chapter, any preliminary dismantling procedures can be ignored.

Note that whilst it may be possible physically to overhaul items such as the piston/connecting rod assemblies with the engine in the vehicle, such tasks are not usually carried out as separate operations and usually require the execution of several

additional procedures (not to mention the cleaning of components and of oilways). For this reason, all such tasks are classed as major overhaul procedures and are described in Part B of this Chapter.

Engine information

The engine is of four-cylinder, in-line type, mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle with the clutch and transmission on its left-hand end. The engine is available in two forms - the K8 engine, which is the eight-valve single overhead camshaft engine fitted to the carburettor-equipped 214 S model, and the K16 engine, which is a sixteen-valve double overhead camshaft engine which is fitted to all fuel-injected models. Apart from the different cylinder head designs, both engines are of identical construction.

Apart from the pressed steel sump, the plastic timing belt covers and the aluminium

alloy cylinder head cover, the engine consists of three major castings which are the cylinder head, the cylinder block/crankcase and the crankshaft main bearing ladder. There is also an oil rail underneath the main bearing ladder and the camshaft carrier/bearing caps.

All major castings are of aluminium alloy and are clamped together by ten long through-bolts which perform the dual role of cylinder head bolts and crankshaft main bearing fasteners. Since these bolts pass through the cylinder block/crankcase and the main bearing ladder, the oil rail is secured also to the main bearing ladder (by two nuts) and the main bearing ladder is secured also to the cylinder block/crankcase (by ten smaller bolts) so that the cylinder head can be removed without disturbing the rest of the engine. The passages provided for the bolts in the major castings are used as breather passages or as returns for the oil to the sump.

The crankshaft runs in five main bearings. Thrustwashers are fitted to the centre main bearing (upper half) to control crankshaft endfloat.

The connecting rods rotate on horizontallysplit bearing shells at their big-ends. The pistons are attached to the connecting rods by gudgeon pins which are an interference fit in the connecting rod small-end eyes. The aluminium alloy pistons are fitted with three piston rings, comprising two compression rings and an oil control ring.

The cylinder bores are formed by replaceable wet liners which are located from their top ends. Two sealing rings are fitted at the base of each liner to prevent the escape of coolant into the sump.

The inlet and exhaust valves are each closed by coil springs and operate in guides pressed into the cylinder head. The valve seat inserts are pressed into the cylinder head and can be renewed separately if worn.

On the K8 engine, the camshaft is driven by a toothed timing belt and operates the eight valves via self-adjusting hydraulic tappets, thus eliminating the need for routine checking and adjustment of the valve clearances. The camshaft rotates in six bearings that are linebored direct in the cylinder head and the (bolted-on) bearing caps. This means that the bearing caps are not available separately from the cylinder head and must not be interchanged with others from another engine. The distributor is driven from the left-hand end of the camshaft and the mechanical fuel pump is operated by an eccentric on the camshaft.

Apart from the fact that it has two camshafts, one inlet and one exhaust, each controlling eight valves and both retained by a single camshaft carrier, the same applies to the K16 engine. On the K16 engine, the distributor is driven from the left-hand end of the inlet camshaft. The fuel pump is electrically-operated.

On both engine types, the coolant pump is driven by the timing belt.

Lubrication is by means of an eccentricrotor trochoidal pump mounted on the crankshaft right-hand end. It draws oil through a strainer located in the sump and then forces it through an externally-mounted full-flow cartridge-type filter into galleries in the oil rail and cylinder block/crankcase, from where it is distributed to the crankshaft (main bearings) and camshaft(s). The big-end bearings are supplied with oil via internal drillings in the crankshaft, while the camshaft bearings and the hydraulic tappets receive a pressurised supply. The camshaft lobes and valves are lubricated by splash, as are all other engine components.

Repair operations possible with the engine in the car

The following work can be carried out with the engine in the vehicle:

a) Compression pressure - testing.

b) Cylinder head cover - removal and

refitting. c) Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting. d) Timing belt covers - removal and refitting. e) Timing belt - removal, refitting and

adjustment. f) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets -

removal and refitting. g) Camshaft oil seal(s) - renewal. h) Camshaft(s) and hydraulic tappets -

removal, inspection and refitting. i) Cylinder head - removal and refitting. j) Cylinder head and pistons -

decarbonising. k) Sump - removal and refitting. l) Oil pump - removal, overhaul and refitting. m) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal. n) Engine/transmission mountings -

inspection and renewal. o) Flywheel - removal, inspection and

refitting.

Precautions

Note that a side-effect of the above described engine design is that the crankshaft cannot be rotated once the cylinder head and block through-bolts have been slackened. During any servicing or overhaul work the crankshaft always must be rotated to the desired position before the bolts are disturbed.

2 Engine oil and filter - renewal

1 Details of checking the engine oil levels and

renewing both the oil and filter are contained in “Weekly Checks” and Chapter 1.

3 Compression test -

description and interpretation

1 When engine performance is down, or if misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to the ignition or fuel systems, a compression test can provide diagnostic clues as to the engine’s condition. If the test is performed regularly it can give warning of trouble before any other symptoms become apparent. 2 The engine must be fully warmed up to normal operating temperature, the battery must be fully charged and the spark plugs must be removed. The aid of an assistant will be required. 3 Disable the ignition system by disconnecting the ignition HT coil lead from the distributor cap and earthing it on the cylinder block. Use a jumper lead or similar wire to make a good connection. 4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1 cylinder spark plug hole. The type of tester which screws into the plug thread is preferred

(see illustration).

5 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide

open and crank the engine on the starter motor. After one or two revolutions, the compression pressure should build up to a maximum figure and then stabilise. Record the highest reading obtained. 6 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders, recording the pressure in each. 7 All cylinders should produce very similar pressures. Any difference greater than that specified indicates the existence of a fault. Note that the compression should build up quickly in a healthy engine. Low compression on the first stroke, followed by gradually increasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low compression reading on the first stroke, which does not build up during successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked head could also be the cause). Deposits on the undersides of the valve heads can also cause low compression. 8 If the pressure in any cylinder is reduced to the specified minimum or less, carry out the following test to isolate the cause. Introduce a teaspoonful of clean oil into that cylinder through its spark plug hole and repeat the test. 9 If the addition of oil temporarily improves the compression pressure, this indicates that bore or piston wear is responsible for the pressure loss. No improvement suggests that leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head gasket, may be to blame. 10 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is almost certainly due to the head gasket having blown between them and the presence of coolant in the engine oil will confirm this. 11 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower than the others and the engine has a slightly rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be the cause. 12 If the compression reading is unusually high, the combustion chambers are probably coated with carbon deposits. If this is the case, the cylinder head should be removed and decarbonised. 13 On completion of the test, refit the spark plugs and reconnect the ignition system.

Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•5

3.4 Measuring compression pressure

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

4 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for

number one piston - locating

General

1 The crankshaft pulley, crankshaft and camshaft sprockets are provided by the factory with clear marks which align only at 90° BTDC. This positions the pistons half-way up the bores so that there is no risk of damage as the engine is reassembled. These marks do not indicate TDC. Use only the ignition timing marks, as described in this Section, to find TDC. 2 Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point in its travel up-and-down the cylinder bore that each piston reaches as the crankshaft rotates. While each piston reaches TDC both at the top of the compression stroke and again at the top of the exhaust stroke, for the purpose of timing the engine, TDC refers to the piston position (usually No 1) at the top of its compression stroke. 3 While all engine reassembly procedures use the factory timing marks (90° BTDC), it is useful for several other servicing procedures to be able to position the engine at TDC. 4 No 1 piston and cylinder is at the right-hand (timing belt) end of the engine. Note that the crankshaft rotates clockwise when viewed from the right-hand side of the vehicle.

Locating TDC

5 Disconnect the battery negative lead and remove all the spark plugs. 6 Trace No 1 spark plug (HT) lead from the plug back to the distributor cap and use chalk or similar to mark the distributor body or engine casting nearest to the cap’s No 1 terminal. Undo the distributor cap retaining screws and remove the cap. 7 Apply the handbrake and ensure that the transmission is in neutral, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the right-hand roadwheel. 8 From underneath the front of the vehicle, slacken and remove the three bolts securing the bumper flange to the body. Remove the seven bolts securing the front undercover panel to the body and remove the panel to gain access to the crankshaft pulley and ignition timing marks. 9 Using a spanner, or socket and extension bar, applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the notch on the crankshaft pulley’s inboard (left-hand) rim is aligned with the TDC mark on the timing belt lower cover (see Chapter 1 for details of ignition timing marks). 10 With the crankshaft in this position, Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are now at TDC, one of them on the compression stroke. If the distributor rotor arm is pointing at (the previously-marked) No 1 terminal, then No 1 cylinder is correctly positioned. If the rotor arm is pointing at No 4 terminal, rotate the crankshaft one full turn (360°) clockwise until the arm points at the

marked terminal. No 1 cylinder will then be at TDC on the compression stroke. 11 Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any of the other cylinders can then be located by rotating the crankshaft clockwise 180° at a time and following the firing order.

5 Cylinder head cover -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the air cleaner assembly and metal

intake duct. 3 Using a suitable pair of pliers, release the retaining clip(s) and disconnect the breather hose(s) from the cylinder head cover (see

illustrations).

K8 engines

4 Undo the bolts securing the HT lead

mounting and air intake support brackets to the cylinder head cover, then remove the brackets and position the HT leads clear of the cover. 5 Remove the two uppermost retaining screws securing the timing belt upper righthand/outer cover to the cylinder head cover, then slacken the remaining screws and bolts, as necessary, until the timing belt cover can be prised clear of the cylinder head cover without damaging it. 6 Working progressively and in the reverse of the tightening sequence (see illustration 5.14),

slacken and remove the cylinder head cover retaining bolts. 7 Remove the cover, peel off the rubber seal and check it for cuts, other damage or distortion. Renew the seal if necessary.

K16 engines

8 Undo the two spark plug cover retaining

screws and lift off the cover. Disconnect the HT leads from the plugs and withdraw them from the cylinder head, along with the clip plate and the grommet which is fitted to the left-hand end of the cylinder head cover. 9 Working progressively and in the reverse of the tightening sequence (see illustration 5.22), slacken and remove the cylinder head cover retaining bolts, noting the correct fitted position of the air intake duct support bracket. 10 Carefully lift off the cylinder head cover, taking care not to damage the gasket. Check that the gasket sealing path is undamaged and is attached to the gasket all around its periphery. If the sealing path is undamaged, then the gasket is re-usable and should remain in place on the cover until reassembly, unless its removal is necessary for other servicing work.

Refitting

K8 engines

11 On reassembly, carefully clean the

cylinder head mating surfaces and the cover seal’s groove and remove all traces of oil. 12 Seat the seal in its groove in the cover and refit the bolts, pushing each through the seal, then apply a smear of silicone-RTV sealant to each corner of the seal (see illustrations).

2A•6 Engine in-car repair procedures

5.12b . . . then refit bolts and apply sealant at locations arrowed - K8 engine

5.12a Ensure seal is correctly seated in cylinder head cover groove . . .

5.3b Disconnecting breather hoses from cylinder head cover - K16 engine

5.3a Disconnecting breather hose from cylinder head cover - K8 engine

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

13 Refit the cover to the cylinder head, ensuring that the seal remains seated in its groove. Fit all bolts, finger-tight. 14 Tighten the cylinder head cover bolts in the sequence shown to the specified torque wrench setting (see illustration). 15 Refit the timing belt upper righthand/outer cover to the cylinder head cover and tighten all the disturbed screws and bolts to the specified torque setting. 16 Refit the HT lead mounting clips and air cleaner intake support brackets to the cylinder head, then tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque. Ensure the HT leads are correctly routed. 17 Connect the breather hose to the cylinder head cover and secure it in position with the retaining clip. 18 Refit the air cleaner housing and reconnect the battery negative lead.

K16 engines

19 On reassembly, carefully clean the mating

surfaces, removing all traces of oil. If the gasket has been removed, the oil separator elements can be cleaned by removing them from the cover and washing them in solvent. Use compressed air to blow dry the elements before refitting them to the cover. 20 If a new gasket is to be fitted, press it onto the cover locating dowels so that if it were laid on the camshaft carrier its stamped markings would be legible. The TOP mark should be nearest the inlet manifold and the EXH MAN SIDE mark should have its arrows pointing to the exhaust manifold (see illustrations). 21 Lower the cover onto the cylinder head, ensuring that the gasket is not damaged or displaced. Install the cover retaining bolts, not forgetting to refit the air intake duct support bracket to its original position, and tighten them finger-tight. 22 Working in the sequence shown, tighten the cylinder head cover retaining bolts to the specified torque setting (see illustration). 23 Reconnect the HT leads to the spark plugs, then locate the clip plate and grommet in the left-hand end of the cylinder head cover. Ensure the HT leads are correctly routed then refit the spark plug cover and tighten its retaining screws to the specified

torque. Tighten the air intake support bracket screws. 24 Connect both the breather hoses to the cylinder head cover and secure them in position with the retaining clips. 25 Refit the air cleaner housing and reconnect the battery negative lead.

6 Crankshaft pulley -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the right-hand roadwheel. 2 From underneath the front of the vehicle, slacken and remove the three bolts securing the bumper flange to the body. Remove the seven bolts securing the front undercover panel to the body and remove the panel. 3 If necessary, rotate the crankshaft until the relevant timing marks align. 4 Remove the power steering pump and/or alternator drivebelt(s) (as applicable). 5 To prevent crankshaft rotation while the pulley bolt is unscrewed, select top gear and have an assistant apply the brakes firmly. If the engine has been removed from the

vehicle, lock the flywheel using the arrangement shown (see illustration 18.2). 6 Unscrew the pulley bolt, noting the special washer behind it, then remove the pulley from the crankshaft.

Refitting

7 Align the crankshaft pulley centre notch with the locating lug on the crankshaft timing belt sprocket then refit the washer, ensuring that its flat surface is facing the pulley. Fit the retaining bolt (see illustration). 8 Lock the crankshaft by the method used on removal and tighten the pulley retaining bolt to the specified torque setting. 9 Refit the power steering pump and/or alternator drivebelt(s) (as applicable) and adjust them as described in Chapter 1. 10 Refit the undercover panel and roadwheel then lower the vehicle to the ground.

7 Timing belt covers -

removal and refitting

Removal

Upper right-hand (outer) cover

1 Slacken the bolt situated at the cover’s

bottom corner, immediately behind the engine/gearbox unit right-hand mounting bracket.

Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•7

5.20b . . . stamped markings would appear as shown if gasket were placed on

camshaft carrier

5.20a Fit gasket to cylinder head cover dowels (arrowed) so that . . .

5.14 Cylinder head cover bolt tightening sequence - K8 engine

6.7 Ensure notch in crankshaft pulley centre fits over crankshaft timing belt

sprocket locating lug (arrowed)

5.22 Cylinder head cover bolt tightening sequence - K16 engine

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

2 Unscrew the remaining cover retaining bolts and withdraw the cover, noting the rubber seal fitted to the mounting bracket edge. Note that if the cover is not slotted at the bottom corner screw’s location, the screw

will have to be removed fully. If this is the case, the cover can be slotted to ease future removal and refitting (see illustrations).

Lower cover

3 Remove the crankshaft pulley. 4 Remove the cover retaining screws,

including the one which also secures the upper cover’s bottom front corner. Remove the cover whilst noting the rubber seal fitted to its mounting bracket edge (see illustration).

Upper left-hand (inner) cover

5 Remove the timing belt. 6 Remove the camshaft sprocket(s) and the

timing belt tensioner. 7 Unscrew the bolt securing the cover to the coolant pump. 8 On K16 engines, unbolt the engine/gearbox unit right-hand mounting bracket from the cylinder block/crankcase. 9 Remove the remaining cover retaining bolts and withdraw the cover (see illustrations).

Refitting

Upper right-hand (outer) cover

10 Refitting is the reverse of the removal

procedure. Ensure that the seal fits correctly between the cover and the mounting bracket and that the cover edges mate correctly with those of the inner cover and (K8 engines only) cylinder head cover (see illustration). 11 Tighten the cover fasteners to the specified torque setting.

Lower cover

12 Refitting is the reverse of the removal

procedure. Ensure that the seal fits correctly between the cover and the mounting bracket and tighten the cover fasteners to the specified torque setting.

Upper left-hand (inner) cover

13 Refitting is the reverse of the removal

procedure. Tighten all disturbed fasteners to their specified torque wrench settings.

8 Timing belt - removal,

inspection, refitting and adjustment

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 To improve access to the timing belt,

remove the expansion tank mounting bolts then free the coolant hose from any relevant retaining clips and position the tank clear of the engine. On models equipped with powerassisted steering, undo all the power steering hose retaining clip bolts then slide the fluid reservoir out of its retaining clip and position it

2A•8 Engine in-car repair procedures

7.10 Ensure timing belt upper right-hand (outer) cover engages correctly with

cylinder head cover - K8 engine

7.9c Removing timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover - K16 engine

7.9b Timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover fasteners (arrowed) - K16 engine

7.9a Timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover fasteners (arrowed) - K8 engine

7.4 Removing timing belt lower cover7.2b Timing belt upper right-hand (outer)

cover fasteners (arrowed) - K16 engine,

raised for clarity

7.2a Timing belt upper right-hand (outer) cover fasteners - K8 engine

1 Slacken screw - cover should be slotted 2 Remove fasteners

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

If the timing belt is to be reused, use white paint or similar to mark the direction of rotation on the belt.

clear of the timing belt covers. Take great care not to place any undue strain on hoses and mop up any spilt fluid immediately. 3 Remove the timing belt upper right-hand (outer) cover. 4 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the right-hand roadwheel 5 From underneath the front of the vehicle, slacken and remove the three bolts securing the bumper flange to the body. Remove the seven bolts securing the front undercover panel to the body and remove the panel to gain access to the crankshaft pulley bolt. 6 Using a suitable spanner or socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise direction until the long whitepainted mark on the crankshaft pulley’s outboard (right-hand) face is aligned with the single, separate mark on the timing belt lower cover so that the crankshaft is in the 90° BTDC position (see Chapter 1 for details of the pulley/cover marks) (see illustration). 7 Check that the camshaft sprocket mark(s) align as described in paragraph 15, showing that Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are at 90° BTDC so that there is no risk of the valves contacting the pistons during dismantling and reassembly. If the camshaft sprocket mark(s) are 180° out, rotate the crankshaft through one complete turn (360°) to align the marks as described (see illustration). 8 On K16 engines, use the tool described in Section 9 to lock up the camshaft sprockets

so that they cannot move under valve spring pressure when the timing belt is removed. 9 Remove the crankshaft sprocket and timing belt lower cover. 10 Position a trolley jack with a wooden spacer beneath the sump then gently jack it up to take the weight of the engine. 11 Slacken and remove the engine/gearbox unit right-hand mounting through-bolt and nut and the mounting-to-bracket nuts. Remove the mounting, along with the two rubber washers which are fitted on each side of the mounting. On K8 engines only, unscrew the retaining bolts securing the bracket to cylinder block/crankcase and remove it from the engine unit (see illustration). 12 Slacken both the timing belt tensioner pulley Allen screw and the tensioner backplate clamp bolt through half a turn each, then push the pulley assembly downwards to remove all the tension from the timing belt. Hold the tensioner pulley in this position and re-tighten the backplate clamp bolt securely

(see illustration). 13 Slip the belt off the sprockets (see illustration). Do not rotate the crankshaft until

the timing belt has been refitted.

Inspection

14 Check the timing belt carefully for any signs of uneven wear, splitting or oil contamination and renew it if there is the slightest doubt about its condition. If the engine is undergoing an overhaul and has

covered more than 48 000 miles (80 000 km) since the original belt was fitted, renew the belt as a matter of course, regardless of its apparent condition. If signs of oil contamination are found, trace the source of the oil leak and rectify it, then wash down the engine timing belt area and all related components to remove all traces of oil.

Refitting

15 On reassembly, thoroughly clean the timing belt sprockets and check that they are aligned as follows. It is most important that these marks are aligned exactly as this sets valve timing. Note that in this position, Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are at 90° BTDC so that there is no risk of the valves contacting the pistons during dismantling and reassembly.

a) Camshaft sprocket on K8 engine - The EX

line and the mark stamped on the sprocket rim must be at the front (looking at the sprocket from the right-hand side of the vehicle) and aligned exactly with the cylinder head top surface (see illustration).

b) Camshaft sprockets on K16 engine - Both

EXHAUST arrow marks must point to the rear (looking at the sprockets from the right-hand side of the vehicle) with the IN lines and the sprocket rim marks aligned exactly with the line on the timing belt upper left-hand/inner cover (representing the cylinder head top surface). See illustration 8.7.

Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•9

8.11 Removing engine/gearbox unit righthand mounting bracket - K8 engine

8.7 Camshaft sprocket marks (A) aligned with timing belt upper left-hand (inner)

cover mark (B) - K16 engine

8.6 Crankshaft pulley mark aligned with

timing belt lower cover mark at 90° BTDC

8.15a Camshaft sprocket marks (A)

aligned with cylinder head top surface (B) -

K8 engine

8.13 Mark direction of rotation of timing belt before removal

8.12 Timing belt tensioner pulley bolt (A) and tensioner backplate clamp bolt (B)

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

c) Crankshaft sprocket - The two dots must

be positioned on each side of the raised rib on the oil pump body (see

illustration).

16 If a used belt is being refitted, ensure that

the arrow mark made on removal points in the normal direction of rotation. Fit the timing belt over the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets, ensuring that the belt front run (and, on K16 engines, the top run) is taut, ie: all slack is on the tensioner pulley side of the belt, then fit the belt over the coolant pump sprocket and tensioner pulley. Do not twist the belt sharply during refitting and ensure that the belt teeth are correctly seated centrally in the sprockets and that the timing marks remain in alignment

(see illustration).. 17 Slacken the tensioner backplate clamp

bolt and check that the tensioner pulley moves to tension the belt. If the tensioner assembly is not free to move under spring tension, rectify the fault or the timing belt will not be correctly tensioned. 18 On K16 engines, remove the camshaft sprocket locking tool. 19 On K8 engines, refit the engine/gearbox unit right-hand mounting bracket, tightening its bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. 20 On all engines, refit the timing belt lower cover and the crankshaft pulley. 21 Using a suitable spanner or socket, rotate the crankshaft two full turns clockwise to settle and tension the belt. Realign the crankshaft pulley (90° BTDC) mark and check that the sprocket timing mark(s) are still correctly aligned. 22 If all is well, first tighten the tensioner pulley backplate clamp bolt to the specified torque, then tighten the tensioner pulley Allen screw to the specified torque. 23 Reassemble the engine/gearbox unit right-hand mounting, ensuring that the rubber washers are correctly located, then tighten the mounting nuts and bolts to their specified torque settings. Remove the jack from underneath the engine unit. 24 Refit the front undercover panel and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground. 25 Refit the timing belt upper right-hand (outer) cover.

26 Where necessary, refit the power steering fluid reservoir to the mounting bracket and secure the hydraulic hose clamps in position with the retaining bolts. 27 Refit the coolant expansion tank and tighten the mounting bolts securely. Secure the coolant hose in position with any necessary retaining clips and reconnect the battery negative lead.

Adjustment

28 As the timing belt is a ‘fit-and-forget’ type, the manufacturer states that tensioning need only be carried out when a belt is (re)fitted. No

re-tensioning is recommended once a belt has been fitted and therefore this operation is not included in the manufacturer’s maintenance schedule. 29 If the timing belt is thought to be incorrectly tensioned, then adjust the tension as described in paragraphs 1 to 7, 17, 21, 22 and 24 to 27 above. 30 If the timing belt has been disturbed, adjust its tension following the same procedure, omitting as appropriate the irrelevant preliminary dismantling/reassembly steps.

9 Timing belt tensioner and

sprockets - removal,

inspection and refitting

Note: This Section describes as individual operations the removal and refitting of the components concerned. If more than one

2A•10 Engine in-car repair procedures

9.2a Timing belt, sprockets and covers - K8 engine

1 Timing belt upper right-

hand (outer) cover 2 Seal 3 Bolt 4 Bolt 5 Bolt 6 Shouldered bolt 7 Timing belt lower cover 8 Seal 9 Seal

10 Bolt 11 Bolt

12 Crankshaft pulley 13 Washer 14 Crankshaft pulley bolt 15 Timing belt tensioner

pulley assembly

16 Tensioner pulley Allen

screw

17 Tensioner backplate

clamp bolt 18 Tensioner pulley spring 19 Sleeve

20 Pillar bolt 21 Timing belt 22 Crankshaft sprocket 23 Camshaft sprocket 24 Camshaft sprocket bolt 25 Washer 26 Timing belt upper left-

hand (inner) cover

27 Bolt - cover to water

pump

28 Bolt

8.16 Refitting timing belt K16 engine

8.15b Crankshaft sprocket dots (A)

aligned on each side of oil pump raised

rib (B)

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

If both camshaft sprockets on K16 engines are to be removed, it is good practice

to mark them (inlet or exhaust) so that they can be returned to their original locations on reassembly.

component needs to be removed at the same time, start by removing the timing belt, then remove each component as described below whilst ignoring the preliminary dismantling steps.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 To improve access to the timing belt

components (see illustrations), remove the expansion tank mounting bolts then free the coolant hose from any relevant retaining clips and position the tank clear of the engine. On models equipped with power-assisted steering, undo all the power steering hose retaining clip bolts then slide the fluid

reservoir out of its retaining clip and position it clear of the timing belt covers. Take great care not to place any undue strain on hoses and mop up any spilt fluid immediately. 3 Remove the timing belt upper right-hand (outer) cover. 4 Apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the right-hand roadwheel. 5 From underneath the front of the vehicle, slacken and remove the three bolts securing the bumper flange to the body. Remove the seven bolts securing the front undercover panel to the body and remove the panel. 6 Using a suitable spanner or socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft in

a clockwise direction until the long whitepainted mark on the crankshaft pulley’s outboard (right-hand) face is aligned with the single, separate mark on the timing belt lower cover so that the crankshaft is in the 90° BTDC position (see Chapter 1 for details of the pulley/cover marks). 7 Check that the camshaft sprocket mark(s) align as described in Section 8, paragraph 15 then proceed as described under the relevant sub-heading.

Camshaft sprocket(s)

8 Slacken through half a turn each, the timing

belt tensioner pulley Allen screw and the tensioner backplate clamp bolt. Push the pulley assembly down to release all tension from the timing belt, then re-tighten the backplate clamp bolt securely. 9 Remove the belt from the camshaft sprocket(s), taking care not to twist it too sharply. Use fingers only to handle the belt. Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt is refitted. 10 On K8 engines, slacken the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and remove it, along with its washer. To prevent the camshaft from rotating, use Rover service tool 18G 1521 to retain the sprocket. If the tool is not available, then an acceptable substitute can be fabricated from two lengths of steel strip (one long, the other short) and three nuts and bolts. One nut and bolt should form the pivot of a forked tool with the remaining two nuts and bolts at the tips of the forks to engage with the sprocket spokes, as shown in illustration 9.23a. 11 On K16 engines, unscrew the appropriate camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and remove it, along with its washer. To prevent a camshaft from rotating, lock together both sprockets using Rover service tool 18G 1570. This tool is a metal sprag shaped on both sides to fit the sprocket teeth and is inserted between the sprockets. If the tool is not available, then an acceptable substitute can be cut from a length of square-section steel tube or similar to fit as closely as possible around the sprocket spokes (see illustrations). 12 On all engines, remove the sprocket(s) from the camshaft end(s), noting the locating roll pin(s) (see illustration). If a roll pin is a

Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•11

9.12 Removing camshaft sprocket (roll pin arrowed) - K8 engine

9.11b . . . to fit sprocket spokes as closely as possible - K16 engine

9.11a Camshaft locking tool cut from steel section . . .

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

9.2b Timing belt, sprockets and covers - K16 engine

1 Timing belt upper right-

hand (outer) cover 2 Bolt 3 Seal 4 Bolt 5 Timing belt lower cover 6 Seal 7 Bolt 8 Bolt 9 Crankshaft pulley

10 Washer 11 Crankshaft pulley bolt 12 Timing belt 13 Camshaft sprockets 14 Bolt 15 Washer 16 Timing belt tensioner

pulley assembly

17 Tensioner pulley Allen

screw

18 Tensioner pulley spring 19 Sleeve 20 Pillar bolt 21 Tensioner backplate

clamp bolt 22 Crankshaft sprocket 23 Timing belt upper left-

hand (inner) cover 24 Bolt

loose fit in the camshaft end, remove it and store it with the sprocket for safe-keeping.

Crankshaft sprocket

13 On K16 engines, use the tool described in

paragraph 11 to lock together the camshaft sprockets so that they cannot move under valve spring pressure when the timing belt is removed. 14 Remove the crankshaft pulley and timing belt lower cover. 15 Slacken through half a turn each the timing belt tensioner pulley Allen screw and the tensioner backplate clamp bolt, push the pulley assembly down to release all the tension from the timing belt, then re-tighten the backplate clamp bolt securely. 16 Work the belt clear of the crankshaft sprocket, taking care not to twist it too sharply. Use fingers only to handle the belt. Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt is refitted.

17 Remove the sprocket from the crankshaft.

Tensioner assembly

18 On K16 engines, use the tool described in

paragraph 11 to lock together the camshaft sprockets so that they cannot move under valve spring pressure when the timing belt is removed. 19 Using a suitable pair of pliers, unhook the tensioner spring from the pillar bolt. Unscrew the tensioner pulley Allen screw and the tensioner backplate clamp bolt then withdraw the tensioner assembly from the engine unit. Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt is re-tensioned.

Inspection

20 Clean thoroughly the camshaft/crankshaft sprockets and renew any that show signs of wear, damage or cracks. 21 Clean the tensioner assembly but do not use any strong solvent which may enter the pulley bearing. Check that the pulley rotates freely on the backplate, with no sign of stiffness or of free play. Renew the assembly if there is any doubt about its condition or if

there are any obvious signs of wear or damage. The same applies to the tensioner spring, which should be checked with great care as its condition is critical for the correct tensioning of the timing belt.

Refitting

Camshaft sprocket(s)

22 If removed, refit the roll pin to the

camshaft end, ensuring that its split is facing the centre of the camshaft, then refit the sprocket so that the timing marks are facing outwards (to the right). On K16 engines, ensure that the appropriate sprocket keyway engages with the camshaft locating pin (ie: if refitting the inlet camshaft sprocket, engage its IN keyway with the roll pin and so on) then refit the sprocket retaining bolt and washer (see illustration). Where necessary, repeat the procedure for the second sprocket. 23 Prevent the sprocket(s) from rotating by using the method employed on removal, then tighten the sprocket retaining bolt(s) to the specified torque setting. Check that the sprocket timing marks align as described in Section 8, paragraph 15 (see illustrations). 24 Fit the timing belt over the camshaft sprockets, ensuring that the belt front run (and, on K16 engines, the top run) is taut, that is, all slack is on the tensioner pulley side of the belt. Do not twist the belt sharply while refitting it and ensure that the belt teeth are correctly seated centrally in the sprockets and that the timing marks remain in alignment. 25 Slacken the tensioner backplate clamp bolt and check that the tensioner pulley moves to tension the belt. If the tensioner assembly is not free to move under spring tension, rectify the fault or the timing belt will not be correctly tensioned. 26 On K16 engines, remove the camshaft sprocket locking tool. 27 Using a suitable spanner or socket, rotate the crankshaft two full turns clockwise to settle and tension the belt. Realign the crankshaft pulley (90° BTDC) mark and check that the sprocket timing mark(s) are still correctly aligned.

28 If all is well, first tighten the tensioner pulley backplate clamp bolt to the specified torque, then tighten the tensioner pulley Allen screw to the specified torque. 29 Refit the front undercover panel and roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground. 30 Refit the timing belt upper right-hand (outer) cover. 31 Where necessary, refit the power steering fluid reservoir to the mounting bracket and secure the hydraulic hose clamps in position with the retaining bolts. 32 Refit the coolant expansion tank and tighten the mounting bolts securely. Secure the coolant hose in position with any necessary retaining clips and reconnect the battery negative lead.

Crankshaft sprocket

33 Refit the sprocket to the crankshaft so

that it locates correctly on the crankshaft’s flattened section, noting that the sprocket flange must be innermost so that the two timing marks are on the outside (right-hand side) of the sprocket. Check that the sprocket timing marks align as described in Section 8, paragraph 15. 34 Fit the timing belt over the crankshaft sprocket, ensuring that the belt front run (and, on K16 engines, the top run) is taut, that is, all slack is on the tensioner pulley side of the belt. Do not twist the belt sharply while refitting it and ensure that the belt teeth are correctly seated centrally in the sprockets and that the timing marks remain in alignment. 35 Slacken the tensioner backplate clamp bolt and check that the tensioner pulley moves to tension the belt. If the tensioner assembly is not free to move under spring tension, rectify the fault or the timing belt will not be correctly tensioned. 36 On K16 engines, remove the camshaft sprocket locking tool. 37 Refit the lower timing belt cover and the crankshaft pulley. 38 Carry out the operations described in paragraphs 27 to 32.

2A•12 Engine in-car repair procedures

9.23b Locking camshafts in position with fabricated tool - K16 engine

9.23a Using fabricated tool to hold

camshaft pulley in position - K8 engine

9.22 Camshaft sprockets have two

keyways. Engage EX keyway with exhaust

camshaft roll pin and IN keyway with inlet

camshaft roll pin - K16 engine

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Tensioner pulley

39 Refit the tensioner pulley assembly and

tighten the pulley Allen screw and the backplate clamp bolt lightly. Hook the tensioner spring over the pillar bolt and check that the tensioner is free to move under spring tension and that the pulley bears correctly against the timing belt (see illustration). 40 On K16 engines, remove the camshaft sprocket locking tool. 41 Carry out the operations described above in paragraphs 27 to 32.

10 Camshaft oil seals - renewal

Note: If a right-hand oil seal is to be renewed with the timing belt still in place, then check that the belt is free from oil contamination. Renew the belt if signs of oil contamination are found. Cover the belt to protect it from contamination while work is in progress and ensure that all traces of oil are removed from the area before the belt is refitted.

Right-hand seal(s)

1 Remove the camshaft sprocket(s). 2 Punch or drill two small holes opposite

each other in the oil seal. Screw a self-tapping screw into each and pull on the screws with pliers to extract the seal. 3 Clean the seal housing and polish off any burrs or raised edges which may have caused the seal to fail in the first place. 4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean engine oil and drive it into position until it seats on its locating shoulder. Use a suitable tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears only on the hard outer edge of the seal (see illustration). Take care not to damage the seal lips during fitting and note that the seal lips should face inwards. 5 Refit the camshaft sprocket(s).

Left-hand seals - K16 engines

6 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 7 To reach the inlet camshaft seal, remove

the distributor. 8 To reach the exhaust camshaft seal,

unfasten the rubber strap securing the air intake duct to its support bracket, disconnect the vacuum pipe from the air temperature control valve and unclip the pipe from the support bracket. Undo the bracket’s retaining bolts and remove the bracket from the cylinder head (see illustration). 9 Remove the old seal and install the new one as described above in paragraphs 2 to 4.

10 On the inlet camshaft, refit the distributor. 11 On the exhaust camshaft, refit the air

intake duct support bracket, tightening its screws to the specified torque wrench setting. Reconnect and secure the air temperature control valve vacuum pipe and refit the rubber strap to secure the air intake duct.

12 Connect the battery negative lead.

11 Camshafts and hydraulic

tappets - removal, inspection

and refitting

Note: Prior to removing the camshaft(s), obtain Rover sealant kit LVV 10002 which also contains a plastic scraper. Read the instructions supplied with the kit and take care not to allow the sealant to contact the fingers, as it will bond the skin. If difficulty is experienced with the removal of hardened sealant from mating surfaces, it will be necessary to use a foam action gasket remover.

Removal

K8 engines

1 Remove the cylinder head cover (see illustration 11.0a overleaf). 2 Remove the distributor. 3 Remove the camshaft sprocket.

4 Carefully prise the oil feed tube away from

the camshaft bearing caps and remove it from the head assembly. Remove the O-rings from the oil rail and discard them. The O-rings must be renewed whenever they are disturbed. 5 The camshaft right and left-hand end bearing caps are noticeably different and cannot be confused. The intermediate bearing caps (which are all similar) are marked by the manufacturer with a number (1, 2, 3, or 4) stamped in the boss next to the oil feed hole. Before unbolting any of the caps, make written notes to ensure that each can be easily identified and refitted in its original location. 6 Working in the reverse of the tightening sequence (see illustration 11.29), slacken the camshaft bearing cap bolts progressively, by one turn at a time. Work only as described to release the pressure of the valve springs on the bearing caps gradually and evenly. 7 Withdraw the bearing caps, noting the presence of the locating dowels on the end caps, then remove the camshaft and withdraw the oil seal. 8 Obtain eight small, clean plastic containers, number them 1 to 8, and then fill them with clean engine oil. Using a rubber sucker, withdraw each hydraulic tappet in turn (see illustration), and place it in its respective container, to prevent oil loss. Do not interchange the hydraulic tappets or the rate of wear will be much increased and do not allow them to lose oil or they will take a long

Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•13

10.8 Remove air intake duct support

bracket to reach exhaust camshaft left-

hand oil seal - K16 engine

10.4 Fitting a new camshaft right-hand oil seal - K16 engine

9.39 Ensure timing belt tensioner spring is correctly hooked onto pillar bolt

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

If faulty tappets are diagnosed and the engine’s service history is unknown,

it is always worth trying the effect of renewing the engine oil and filter (using only good quality engine oil of the recommended viscosity and specification) before going to the expense of renewing any of the tappets.

11.8 Use a valve-grinding sucker to extract hydraulic tappets

2A•14 Engine in-car repair procedures

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

11.0a Top end components - K8 engine

11.0b Top end components - K16 engine

1 Cylinder head cover 2 Seal 3 Engine oil filler cap 4 Seal 5 Bolt 6 HT lead retaining clip

bracket 7 Screw 8 HT lead retaining clip 9 HT lead retaining clip

10 HT lead retaining clip

bracket

11 Air intake duct support

bracket

12 Fastener insert 13 Bolt 14 Oil seal 15 Roll pin 16 Camshaft 17 Camshaft right-hand

bearing cap*

18 Dowel 19 Bolt 20 Camshaft intermediate

bearing cap*

21 Bolt 22 Camshaft left-hand

bearing cap*

23 Oil feed tube 24 O-ring 25 Cylinder head bolt 26 Cylinder head 27 Cylinder head gasket 28 Hydraulic tappet 29 Split collets 30 Spring retainer 31 Valve spring 32 Valve stem seal/ spring

lower seat 33 Valve guide 34 Inlet valve 35 Valve seat insert 36 Exhaust valve 37 Valve seat insert 38 Gasket 39 Coolant outlet elbow 40 Bolt 41 Coolant temperature

gauge sender unit 42 Spark plug

* Note: Camshaft bearing caps shown for reference only - not available separately from cylinder head

1 Spark plug cover 2 Screw 3 Retaining washer 4 Engine oil filler cap 5 Seal 6 Spark plug 7 Pillar bolt 8 HT lead grommet

9 HT lead clip plate 10 Bolt 11 Cylinder head cover 12 Gasket 13 Camshaft carrier* 14 Bolt 15 Cylinder head bolt 16 Inlet camshaft 17 Exhaust camshaft 18 Roll pin 19 Rotor arm drive

spindle 20 Oil seal 21 Hydraulic tappet 22 Split collets 23 Spring retainer

24 Valve spring 25 Valve stem seal/spring

lower seat 26 Cylinder head 27 Dowel 28 Cylinder head gasket 29 Valve guide 30 Inlet valves 31 Valve seat insert 32 Exhaust valves 33 Valve seat insert 34 Air intake duct support

bracket 35 Bolt 36 Gasket 37 Coolant outlet elbow 38 Bolt 39 Coolant temperature

gauge sender unit * Note: Camshaft carrier

shown for reference only not available separately from cylinder head

+ 187 hidden pages