Nissan VQ35DE User Manual

Forced Induction Racing VQ35DE Install Kit Instructions
2002+ Nissan SE-R Spec-V (W/6spd) Revised Date: 2/16/06
Recommended Tools:
Metric/Standard socket sets (3/8 and 1/2) Torque wrench and Pry-Bar Metric/Standard wrenches Jack and jack stands Eye/Ear and Respiratory protection Disc Grinder and extension cord Engine hoist and chain
**BEFORE YOUR BEGIN** This kit was design with simplicity in mind. Installing the VQ drive-
train will be fairly straight-forward. However, it will require moderate automotive knowledge, and the right tools to complete the job. If your are unsure about the installation, PLEASE, bring your vehicle to a qualified automotive shop to complete your installation. The hardest aspect of this installation, is the wiring of the ECU (Engine Control Unit) harness and sub-harness. Diagrams can be supplied upon request, which will help you to complete this task. However, the wiring aspect of this swap is fairly complicated, and should be left to a very experienced automotive technician. Again, if you are unsure, PLEASE, ask for help, or have someone who is qualified, do the work for you. Forced Induction Racing and it’s associates will NOT be held liable for any damages or injury from the use or misuse of this product. You are responsible for making your vehicle emission­compliant. This kit is sold as a off-road kit. It is up to you to bring your vehicle up to compliance with state/federal laws. Now, on to the fun part.
At this time, please take the time to go through your parts, and verify that you have all of the following pieces:
(1) Rear VQ35DE steel mount bracket (1) Front VQ35DE steel mount bracket (1) Front QR to VQ stainless mount adaptor (1) Aluminum VQ35DE passenger side mount bracket (1) Passenger side QR to VQ stainless mount adaptor
(1) VQ35DE cast iron axle bracket (bearing carrier) (1) Stainless VQ35DE axle bracket adaptor (3) “C-shaped” washers (for axle spacing) (1) Plastic bag of washers (for shimming passenger mount) (10) M10 x 1.50 bolts (30mm long) and washers (1) M10 x 1.50 bolt (45mm long) and washer (1) 3/8” bolt (1.5” long) 2 washers/1 lock nut (1) 3/8” bolt (2.5” long) 2 washers/1 lock nut (1) 3/8” bolt (3” long) 1 washer/1 lock nut
(1) 1/2” bolt (6” long) 2 washers/1 lock nut (2) 1/2” bolts (5” long) 4 washers/1 lock nut (1) M10 x 1.75 lock nut and 1 washer
If you have purchased a full kit with the VQ35DE bell-housing, please take the time to make sure the following is installed:
(1) Throw out bearing pivot ball (1) Input shaft seal (1) Passenger side axle seal
Once you have verified the contents of your kit, it’s time to move on to the installation.
We will begin, with the assumption that you have removed your QR25DE and transmission. We will also assume that you have swapped over your bell-housing on your transmission, or, you have purchased a 6 speed Maxima transmission. If you are attempting to swap the bell-housing yourself, then you should be familiar with the
Factory Service Manual. If you need the manual for this particular application, it will be saved in a separate folder on this installation CD. Here is a picture, showing the difference between the QR and VQ 6 speed bell-housings:
The VQ bell-housing is shown on the left side, with the QR internals already installed. The old QR bell-housing is shown on the right. It is important to check clearances and re-shim the main/input shaft and gear stacks if necessary. As stated, please use the Factory Service Manual, if you are have the knowledge/tools to perform this part of the swap. If you do not, then please consult a local transmission specialist to take care of this part of your swap. Once you have your transmission squared away, it’s time to move on to mounting the transmission to the engine. If your engine was mated to an automatic transmission, you will need to source a VQ35DE 2002+ 6 speed flywheel and clutch. I recommend using a Jim Wolf Technology aluminum flywheel, teamed with their 250mm/900Kg clutch setup. This will yield a stock-like feel, as far as pedal pressure and feedback are concerned. This combination is good for 450-500 wheel horsepower. Also, make sure to purchase new flywheel bolts for a 6 speed flywheel. The automatic flex-plate bolts are too short to be used with a manual transmission flywheel. You should torque
the flywheel bolts to 80ft lbs, and use a few dabs of Red Loc­Tite. You should torque the pressure plate bolts to 20-22ft lbs, and use a dab of Red Loc-Tite on those as well. I recommend the
use of a high quality clutch alignment tool. This will make the next step a lot easier.
Grab a buddy, and have him/her help you lift the transmission up a few inches. Slide the input shaft into the clutch disc splines. The transmission should slide onto the two dowel pins that line it up perfectly with the engine block. Thread in the 17mm and 14mm bolts. If your engine did not come with the bolts, you will need to order them from Nissan. Torque the 17mm bolts to 45ft lbs. Torque the 14mm bolts to 35ft lbs. You should go ahead and install your starter at this time. Also, install your speedometer sensor and other misc. sensors that you should have with your wiring.
Next, it’s time to move on to the engine mount brackets/adaptors. Let’s start with the rear engine mount bracket:
A. Torque to 35-40ft lbs (back side of block) B. Torque to 55ft lbs (goes through rear mount on cross-member to be torqued down later)
Once you have the rear mount torqued down to the block, you can install the passenger-side axle bracket and adaptor. The bracket and adaptor will come loosely assembled as pictured:
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