Guide bar bolts.................................................46
Appendix A, Carburettor – EPA models ........... 47
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Introduction
Arrangement of the manual
This workshop manual can be used in two different
ways.
• To repair a specific sub-assembly on a chainsaw.
• To dismantle and reassemble a complete
chainsaw.
Repairing a specific sub-assembly
If a specific sub-assembly on the chainsaw needs
to be repaired:
1. Look up the page referring to the relevant subassembly.
2. Follow the instructions under the headings:
Removal/Dismantling
Cleaning and inspection
Refitting/Reassembly
Dismantling and reassembling the entire
chainsaw
If the entire chainsaw is to be dismantled, follow
the instructions under the heading “Removal/
Dismantling”.
Troubleshooting
These pages describe the most common faults that
affect a chainsaw. They are divided into four
different groups with the most likely faults described first.
Repair instructions
The section that describes how to repair the
chainsaw consists of detailed, step-by-step instructions. It explains in detail the special tools, lubricants and bolt torques that are needed when
working on each component.
This workshop manual covers the following
chainsaw models:
357XP/G
359/G
Work through the manual and follow the instructions given in each section under the heading
“Removal/Dismantling”.
Then follow all the “Cleaning and inspection”
instructions in each section.
Working from the back of the manual, follow all the
instructions under the headings “Refitting/
Reassembly” in reverse order.
Each of the sections covering removal/dismantling
and refitting/reassembly include the relevant
lubrication instructions and bolt torques for each
stage of repair.
Construction and function
This chapter gives a simple description of the
chainsaw carburettor and its various parts.
2 – English
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Safety regulations
General instructions
This workshop manual gives detailed instructions
on how to troubleshoot, repair and test a chainsaw.
This section also describes the various safety
precautions that should be taken when carrying out
repairs.
The workshop manual has been written for personnel who are assumed to have general experience
of repairing and servicing chainsaws.
Workshops where chainsaws are repaired must be
equipped with safety equipment that meets local
regulations.
No-one should carry out repairs on a chainsaw
until they have read and understood the contents
of this workshop manual.
Chainsaws are type-approved to meet the relevant
safety legislation, but this only applies when the
saw is fitted with the cutting equipment specified in
the user’s manual. The fitting of any other equipment, or of accessories or parts that are not
approved by Jonsered, could mean that the saw no
longer meets these safety requirements and the
person who carried out the work may be held
responsible for its non-conformance.
Special instructions
The fuel that is used in a chainsaw poses the
following hazards:
• The fuel and its fumes are toxic.
• May cause irritation to skin or eyes.
• May cause breathing difficulties.
• Highly flammable.
When using compressed air the air jet should
never be pointed at the body. Air can be forced into
the bloodstream and cause fatal injury.
Wear ear protection when testing saws.
After testing a saw do not touch the silencer until it
has cooled down. The silencer gets very hot and
you may burn yourself. Wear protective gloves
when working on the silencer.
The guide bar, chain and clutch cover (chain brake)
must be fitted before the saw is started. If not, the
clutch may come loose and cause injury.
Poor chain lubrication can result in failure of the
chain, which could cause serious or fatal injury.
In this workshop manual the following boxes
indicate where caution should be taken.
WARNING!
The warning text warns of the risk
of personal injury if the instructions are not followed.
NOTE!
The warning text warns of the risk of
material damage if the instructions are
not followed.
Take care to ensure that the spring inside the
starter assembly does not fly out and cause injury.
Wear eye protection. If the spring is under compression when the pulley is removed it could fly out
and cause injury.
Before removing the tensioning spring from the
chain brake, ensure that the brake is in the on
position, otherwise the spring may fly out and
cause injury.
After repair, the chain brake must be checked as
described in the section “Chain brake – operating
test”.
Always consider the fire risk. A chainsaw can
produce sparks that could start a fire.
Inspect the chain catcher and replace it if it is
damaged.
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Special tools
1
4
2
5
3
6
7
8
1110
9
12
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Construction and function
Carburettor
The carburettor consists of three sub-systems:
• The metering unit (A) which contains the jets
and the fuel control mechanism. This measures
out the right amount of fuel to suit the speed of
the saw and the power demand.
• The mixing unit (B) consists of the choke,
diffuser jets and throttle valve. This is where the
air and fuel are mixed to create a flammable
mixture.
The carburettor works in different ways depending
on the setting:
• Cold start mode
• Idling mode
• Part throttle mode
• Full throttle mode
In the cold start mode the choke valve (D) is
completely closed. This increases the vacuum in
the carburettor so that fuel is sucked through the
diffuser jets faster (E).
• The pump unit (C) pumps fuel from the tank to
the metering system inside the carburettor. One
side of the pump diaphragm is connected to the
crankcase and pulses as a result of pressure
changes in the crankcase. The other side of the
diaphragm sucks in the fuel.
In idling mode the throttle valve (F) is closed. Air is
sucked through an aperture in the throttle valve
and a small amount of fuel is supplied through the
diffuser jet (E).
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Construction and function
In part throttle mode the throttle valve (F) is partially open. Fuel is supplied through the diffuser jets
(E).
In full throttle mode both valves are open and fuel
is supplied through all the diffuser jets (E).
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Troubleshooting
The various faults that can affect a chainsaw are divided into four groups. In each group the likely symptoms are given on the left and possible causes are listed on the right. The most likely faults are given first,
and so on.
Starting
Difficulty starting
Carburettor
leaking fuel
Flooding when
engine not
running
Idling (low rpm)
Will not idle
Idling too rich
Adjust L screw
Air filter blocked
Choke not working
Worn choke pivot
Worn choke valve
Fuel filter blocked
Fuel line blocked
Piston ring seized
Blocked impulse channel
Loose or faulty fuel pipe
Hole in diaphragm
Worn needle valve
Needle valve assemb ly stic king
Needle valve set too high
Leak in metering system (air
or fuel)
Loose cover on carburettor
pump side
Worn needle valve
Needle valve set too high
Needle valve assemb ly stic king
Adjust L screw
Leaking air intake hose (rubber)
Loose carburettor mounting bolts
Loose or faulty fuel hose
Fuel filter blocked
Fuel line blocked
Fuel tank vent blocked
Throttle valve pivot stiff
Throttle pushrod sticking
Defective throttle return spring
Bent throttle stop
Faulty diffuser jet
Adjust L screw
Worn needle valve
Needle valve set too high
Worn needle valve lever
Leaking control diaphragm/cover
plate
Needle valve assembly sticking
Idling (low rpm) (cont.)
Idles when L
screw closed
Idling uneven
L screw requires
constant
adjustment
Too much fuel at
idling
Worn needle valve
Leaking control diaphragm/
cover plate
Needle valve assemb ly sticking
Worn needle valve lever
Faulty diffuser jet
Fuel filter blocked
Fuel line blocked
Leaking air intake hose (rubber)
Loose carburettor mounting
bolts
Worn throttle valve pivot
Loose throttle valve screw
Worn throttle valve
Needle valve assembly
sticking
Leak in metering system (air
or fuel)
Metering system centre knob
is worn
Hole in diaphragm
Leaking control diaphragm/
cover plate
Crankcase leaking
Fuel line blocked
Needle valve set too high
Needle valve assemb ly sticking
Leak in metering system (air
or fuel)
Leaking control diaphragm/
cover plate
Faulty diffuser jets
Crankcase leaking
Needle valve set too high
Needle valve assemb ly sticking
Metering system damaged
Worn needle valve
Leaking control diaphragm/
cover plate
Metering system incorrectly
assembled
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Troubleshooting
High rpm
Will not run
at full throttle
Low power
Will not
“four-stroke”
Adjust H screw
Blocked air filter
Blocked fuel tank vent
Blocked fuel filter
Fuel line blocked
Loose or damaged fuel hose
Impulse channel leaking
Impulse channel blocked
Loose cover on carburettor pump
side
Faulty pump diaphragm
Leaking air intake hose (rubber)
Loose carburettor mounting bolts
Needle valve set too low
Metering system damaged
Metering system incorrectly
assembled
Leaking control diaphragm/cover
plate
Needle valve assembly sticking
Blocked silencer
Adjust H screw
Blocked fuel tank vent
Blocked fuel filter
Impulse channel leaking
Impulse channel blocked
Loose cover on carburettor pump
side
Faulty pump diaphragm
Blocked air filter
Needle valve assembly sticking
Leak in metering system (air or fuel)
Metering system incorrectly
assembled
Loose diaphragm rivet
Hole in diaphragm
Leaking control diaphragm/cover
plate
Blocked fuel tank vent
Blocked fuel filter
Fuel line blocked
Loose or damaged fuel hose
Impulse channel leaking
Impulse channel blocked
Loose cover on carburettor pump
side
Faulty pump diaphragm
Leaking air intake hose (rubber)
Loose carburettor mounting bolts
Needle valve set too low
Leak in metering system (air or fuel)
Metering unit incorrectly
assembled
Loose diaphragm rivet
Hole in diaphragm
Leaking control diaphragm/cover
plate
Acceleration and retardation
Does not
accelerate
Engine stalls
when throttle
released
Over rich
acceleration
Adjust L screw
Adjust H screw
Blocked air filter
Blocked fuel tank vent
Blocked fuel filter
Fuel line blocked
Loose or damaged fuel hose
Impulse channel blocked
Loose cover on carburettor
pump side
Faulty pump diaphragm
Leaking air intake hose (rubber)
Loose carburettor mounting
bolts
Needle valve set too low
Metering system incorrectly
assembled
Needle valve assembly sticking
Faulty diffuser jets
Blocked silencer
Adjust L screw
Adjust H screw
Faulty pump diaphragm
Needle valve set too high
Needle valve assembly sticking
Faulty diffuser jets
Adjust L screw
Adjust H screw
Blocked air filter
Faulty pump diaphragm
Faulty diffuser jets
Troubleshooting methods
In addition to the faults described in the above
table, trouble shooting can be carried out on
specific components or sub-systems of the
chainsaw. The various procedures are
described in the relevant sections, as follows:
•Checking the operation of
the chain brakePage 13
•Measuring the resistance of
the stop platePage 15
•Pressure testing the carburettorPage 32
•Pressure testing the decompression
valvePage 41
•Pressure testing the cylinderPage 43
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Repair instructions
Chain brake – dismantling
3
1
Disengage the brake by pushing the kickback
guard backwards. Unscrew the guide bar bolts and
remove the clutch cover, chain and guide bar.
2
WARNING!
Make sure the spring does not fly
out and cause injury. Wear eye
protection.
Remove the screws and carefully remove the cover
from the chain brake spring.
4
Grip the clutch cover carefully in a vice. Release
the brake spring by using the kickback guard from
the saw as a tool. Engage it with the brake mechanism and turn anticlockwise to activate the brake.
Place one hand over the brake spring and insert a
small screwdriver between the rear end of the
spring and the clutch cover. Carefully prise the
spring upwards to release it and slide it onto the
screwdriver shaft. Release the locking washer from
the elbow joint and lift it off.
Cleaning and inspection
• Clean and inspect all parts carefully. If there are
any cracks or other defects replace the damaged
parts with new ones. Always use original parts.
• Measure the thickness of the chain brake band.
It must be no less than 0.6 mm at any point.
• Lubricate the elbow joint with grease.
min 0,6 mm
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Repair instructions
Chain brake – reassembly
1
Bolt the elbow joint to the brake band and tighten
to a torque of 1–1.5 Nm.
Locate the elbow joint and connected brake band
in their recesses in the clutch cover. Lubricate the
recess for the spring with grease.
2
WARNING!
Make sure the spring does not fly
out and cause injury. Wear eye
protection.
4
Tension the brake spring by using the kickback
guard from the saw as a tool. Engage it with the
brake mechanism and turn clockwise to release
the brake.
5
Turn the chain tensioner anticlockwise as far as it
will go.
Refit:
• guide bar
Grip the clutch cover in a vice. Compress the
spring with special tool 502 50 67-01 and push it
down with your thumb.
3
• chain
• clutch cover
NOTE!
After completing the repair the chain
brake must be tested as described below.
Operating test:
The engine must not be running during the test.
Guide bar lengthHeight
38cm/15"50 cm/20"
• Hold the chainsaw over a firm surface. The
height of the guide bar above the surface is
given in the table above.
• Let go of the front handle and let the chainsaw
fall towards the surface.
• When the guide bar hits the surface the chain
brake must engage.
Fit the cover over the chain brake spring, tightening
the screws to a torque of 1–1.5 Nm.
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Repair instructions
Silencer – removal
WARNING!
Do not touch the silencer until it
has cooled down, otherwise you
may burn yourself.
1
Remove the cylinder cover, silencer support,
silencer, gasket and cooling plate.
In order to remove the silencer support you must
first remove the top screw from the bark rest and
partially undo the bottom screw.
2
If the saw is fitted with a spark arrestor mesh this
must also be removed.
Silencer – refitting
1
If the saw is equipped with a spark arrestor mesh
this should be fitted first.
2
Refit
• cooling plate
• gasket
• silencer, tighten bolts to a torque of 12–14 Nm
• silencer support, tighten bolts to a torque of 8–
10 Nm
• bark rest, tighten bolts to a torque of 8–10 Nm
• cylinder cover
3
Run the saw for at least 1 minute, then retighten
the silencer bolts to 8–10 Nm.
Chain catcher – replacement
If the chain catcher is worn it must be replaced with
a new one.
1
Release the brake by pushing the kickback guard
backwards. Undo the guide bar bolts and remove
the clutch cover, chain and guide bar.
2
Cleaning and inspection
Clean and inspect all parts carefully. If there are
any cracks or other defects replace the damaged
parts with new ones.
The spark arrestor mesh is best cleaned with a
wire brush. If the mesh is damaged it must be
replaced.
If the mesh is blocked the saw will overheat and
this will cause damage to cylinder and piston.
Never use the saw with a silencer that is in poor
condition. Always use original parts.
Remove the chain catcher and replace it with a
new one, tightening the bolts to 4–5 Nm. Check
that the vibration damping spring locates correctly
against the crankcase when you bolt the new chain
catcher in position.
3
Turn the chain tensioner anticlockwise as far as it
will go.
Refit:
• guide bar
• chain
14 – English
• clutch cover
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