Opel Vectra 1988 1995 User Manual

General

Fuel tank capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61.0 litres

Fuel octane rating:

Leaded . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 RON (4-star)

Unleaded . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 RON (Premium)

Carburettor type (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pierburg 2E3

Air cleaner element

Application:

Round type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W103

Square type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U512

14 NV engine

Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 925 ± 25 rpm

Idle mixture (CO content) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.5%

Fast idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2200 to 2600 rpm

Choke valve gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 3.5 mm

Choke pull-down gap:

“Small” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.7 to 2.1 mm

“Large” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 to 2.9 mm

Idle fuel jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

Idle air bleed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130

Primary Secondary

Venturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.0 mm 24.0 mm

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X95 X110

Chapter 4 Part A:

Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models

Accelerator pump - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Air cleaner inlet air temperature control - description and testing . . . .4

Air cleaner - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Automatic choke unit - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . .19

Automatic choke vacuum pull-down units - removal, refitting and

adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Carburettor - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Carburettor - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Carburettor filter - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Fuel level sender unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Fuel pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Fuel pump - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Fuel system - precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Fuel tank - removal, examination and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Fuel vapour separator (1.6 and 1.8 litre models) - removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Idle cut-off solenoid (1.8 litre models) - description and testing . . . .25

Idle speed and mixture - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Idle speed increase valve - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Needle valve and float - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . .15

Power valve diaphragm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Secondary throttle valve vacuum diaphragm - testing, removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Throttle cable - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Throttle pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Throttle position sensor (automatic transmission models) - removal

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Throttle valve dashpot (automatic transmission models) -

adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

4A•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

16 SV engine

Idle speed

Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 925 ± 25 rpm

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 825 ± 25 rpm (in ‘park’ or ‘neutral’)

Idle mixture (CO content) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.5%

Fast idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2000 to 2400 rpm

Choke valve gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 3.5 mm

Choke pull-down gap:

Up to 1990:

“Small” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 to 1.7 mm

“Large” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.9 to 2.3 mm

From 1990:

“Small” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 1.7 mm

“Large” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 to 2.2 mm

Idle fuel jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

Idle air bleed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132.5

Primary Secondary

Venturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.0 mm 24.0 mm

Main jet:

Up to 1990 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X95 X105

From 1990 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X92.5 X105

18 SV engine

Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 925 ± 25 rpm

Idle mixture (CO content) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.5 to 1.5%

Fast idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1900 to 2300 rpm

Choke valve gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 3.5 mm

Choke pull-down gap:

“Small” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 ± 0.2 mm

“Large” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.3 ± 0.2 mm

Idle fuel jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42.5

Idle air bleed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132.5

Primary Secondary

Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107.5 125

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Exhaust manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Exhaust downpipe-to-manifold bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Exhaust fixings except flexible joint bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Exhaust flexible joint bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9

Fuel pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13

Fuel tank mounting strap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Inlet manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

1 General description

The fuel system on all carburettor models comprises a fuel tank, a fuel pump, a vapour separator (1.6 and 1.8 litre models only), a downdraught carburettor, and a thermostatically-controlled air cleaner.

The fuel tank is mounted under the rear of the vehicle, forward of the rear suspension. The tank is ventilated to the atmosphere, and has a simple filler pipe and a fuel gauge sender unit.

The fuel pump is a mechanical diaphragm type, actuated by a pushrod bearing on the camshaft.

The fuel vapour separator is used to stabilise the fuel supply to the carburettor. Vapour is purged from the carburettor fuel supply, thus improving hot starting qualities.

The carburettor is a Pierburg 2E3 type, a full description of which is given in Section 12.

The air cleaner has a wax or vacuumcontrolled air inlet supplying a blend of hot and cold air to suit the prevailing engine operating conditions. A fuller description is given in Section 4.

All engines available within the Cavalier range can be operated on unleaded petrol see Chapter 5.

2 Fuel system - precautions

1 Certain adjustment points in the fuel system

are protected by tamperproof caps, plugs or seals. In some territories, it is an offence to drive a vehicle with broken or missing tamperproof seals. Before disturbing a tamperproof seal, check that no local or national laws will be broken by doing so, and fit a new tamperproof seal after adjustment is complete, where required by law. Do not break tamperproof seals on a vehicle that is still under warranty.

2 When working on fuel system components, scrupulous cleanliness must be observed, and care must be taken not to introduce any foreign matter into fuel lines or components. Carburettors in particular are delicate instruments, and care should be taken not to disturb any components unnecessarily. Before attempting work on a carburettor, ensure that the relevant spares are available. Full overhaul procedures for carburettors have not been given in this Chapter. Complete stripdown of a carburettor is unlikely to cure a fault that is not immediately obvious, without introducing new problems. If persistent problems are met, it is recommended that the advice of a Vauxhall dealer or carburettor specialist is sought. Most dealers will be able to provide carburettor re-setting and servicing facilities, and if necessary it should be possible to buy a reconditioned carburettor. 3 Refer to Chapter 5, for precautions to be observed when working on vehicles fitted with an engine management system.

4A•2 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models

3 Air cleaner - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Remove the air cleaner element, as described in Chapter 1. 2 Release the crankcase ventilation hose from the plastic clip on the left-hand side of the air cleaner body. 3 Disconnect the inlet duct from the hot air hose on the exhaust manifold (see illustration), and lift the air cleaner body from the carburettor. 4 With the body tilted to the rear, disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose from the stub on the underside of the body (see illustration). Where applicable, disconnect the vacuum hose from the air temperature control flap thermostat. 5 Remove the seal from under the air cleaner body.

Refitting

6 Check the hot air hose for condition, and renew it if necessary. 7 Fit a new air cleaner body-to-carburettor seal. 8 Connect the crankcase ventilation hose to the stub on the underside of the body, and connect the vacuum hose for the air temperature control flap. 9 Locate the body on the carburettor, and at the same time locate the inlet duct on the hot air hose on the exhaust manifold. 10 Engage the crankshaft ventilation hose in the plastic clip. 11 Refit the air cleaner element, referring to Chapter 1 if necessary.

4 Air cleaner inlet air

temperature control -

description and testing

Description

1 The air cleaner is thermostaticallycontrolled, to provide air at the most suitable temperature for combustion with minimum exhaust emission levels. 2 The optimum air temperature is achieved by drawing in cold air from an inlet at the front of the vehicle, and blending it with hot air

drawn from a shroud on the exhaust manifold. The proportion of hot and cold air is varied by the position of a flap valve in the air cleaner inlet spout, which is controlled by either a vacuum diaphragm or wax-type unit. The vacuum diaphragm type is regulated by a heat sensor located within the air cleaner body (see illustration).

Testing

3 To check the operation of the air temperature control, the engine must be cold. First check the position of the flap valve. On the vacuum type, remove the air cleaner cover and check that the flap is open to admit only cold air from outside the car. Then start the engine and check that the flap now moves to admit only hot air from the exhaust manifold. On the wax type, the flap should already be positioned to admit only hot air from the exhaust manifold. 4 Temporarily refit the cover on the vacuum type. 5 Run the engine until it reaches its normal operating temperature. 6 On the vacuum type, remove the air cleaner cover and check that the flap is now positioned to admit only cold air from outside the car. In cold weather it should be a mixture of hot and cold air. Refit the cover after making the check. On the wax type, use a mirror to check that the flap is positioned in the same way as given for the vacuum type. 7 If the flap does not function correctly, the air cleaner casing must be renewed. Note that the vacuum type thermostat can be renewed separately if necessary.

5 Fuel pump - testing

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding 1 Disconnect the ignition coil LT lead. 2 Place a clean piece of rag under the pump

outlet, then disconnect the pump outlet hose. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire precautions. 3 Have an assistant crank the engine on the starter. Well-defined spurts of fuel must be ejected from the pump outlet - if not, the pump is probably faulty (or the tank is empty). Dispose of the fuel-soaked rag safely. 4 No spare parts are available for the pump, and if faulty, the unit must be renewed.

6 Fuel pump - removal and

refitting

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding

Removal

1 The fuel pump is located at the rear righthand end of the camshaft housing.

2 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 3 Disconnect the fuel hoses from the pump (see illustration). If necessary, label the

hoses so that they can be reconnected to their correct locations. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire precautions. Plug the open ends of the hoses to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel spillage.

Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•3

3.4 Disconnecting the crankcase ventilation hose (arrowed)

6.3 Disconnecting a fuel hose from the fuel pump - 1.6 litre model

4.2 Air cleaner flap valve operating mechanism

1 Flap valve 2 Operating rod

3.3 The air cleaner body locates over the hot air hose

Warning: Many of the procedures given in this Chapter involve the

disconnection of fuel pipes and system components, which may result in some fuel spillage. Before carrying out any operation on the fuel system, refer to the precautions given in the “Safety first!” Section at the beginning of this manual and follow them implicitly. Petrol is a highly dangerous and volatile substance, and the precautions necessary when handling it cannot be overstressed.

4 Unscrew the two securing bolts, and withdraw the pump from the camshaft housing (see illustration). 5 Recover the plastic insulating block.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the fuel hoses are reconnected to their correct locations as noted during removal, and tighten the securing bolts to the specified torque. 7 Run the engine and check for leaks on completion. If leakage is evident, stop the engine immediately and rectify the problem without delay. Note that the engine may take a longer time than usual to start when the pump has been removed, as the pump refills with fuel.

7 Fuel tank - removal,

examination and refitting

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Siphon out any remaining fuel in the tank

through the filler pipe. Siphon the fuel into a clean metal container that can be sealed. 3 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle, and support securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”) placed under the body side members. 4 Disconnect the exhaust system front flexible joint. Suspend the front section of the exhaust system with wire or string from the underbody. 5 Disconnect the rear section of the exhaust system from its rubber mountings, and allow it to rest on the rear suspension torsion beam. It is advisable to support the rear section of the exhaust at its front end, with wire or string from the underbody, to avoid straining the system. 6 Unclip the handbrake cable from the bracket on the left-hand fuel tank securing strap. 7 Disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel level sender unit located in the right-hand side of the fuel tank. Make a note of the hose

positions for use when refitting. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire precautions. Plug the open ends of the hoses, to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel loss. 8 Disconnect the wiring plug from the fuel level sender unit. 9 Disconnect the filler and vent hoses from the rear of the fuel tank. 10 Support the weight of the fuel tank on a jack with an interposed block of wood. 11 Unscrew the securing bolts from the tank mounting straps, then remove the straps and lower the tank sufficiently to enable the disconnection of the remaining vent hose. 12 With the aid of an assistant, withdraw the tank sideways from the right-hand side of the vehicle. Note that as the tank is withdrawn, some residual fuel may be released.

Examination

13 If the tank contains sediment or water, it may be cleaned out using two or three rinses with clean fuel. Shake vigorously using several changes of fuel, but before doing so, remove the fuel level sender unit, as described in Section 8. This procedure should be carried out in a well-ventilated area, and it is vital to take adequate fire precautions refer to the “Safety first!” Section at the beginning of this manual for further details. 14 Any repairs to the fuel tank should be carried out by a professional. Do not under any circumstances attempt to weld or solder a fuel tank. Removal of all residual fuel vapour requires several hours of specialist cleaning.

Refitting

15 Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring that all hoses are reconnected to their correct locations as noted during removal. 16 On completion, fill the fuel tank, then run the engine and check for leaks. If leakage is evident, stop the engine immediately and rectify the problem without delay. Note that the engine may take a longer time than usual to start when the fuel tank has been removed, as the pump refills with fuel.

8 Fuel level sender unit -

removal and refitting

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Siphon out any remaining fuel in the tank

through the filler pipe. Siphon the fuel into a clear metal container that can be sealed. 3 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle, and support securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”) placed under the body side members. 4 The sender unit is located in the right-hand side at the fuel tank. 5 Make alignment marks on the sender unit and the fuel tank, so that the sender unit can be refitted in its original position.

6 Disconnect the fuel hoses from the sender unit. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire precautions. Plug the open ends of the hoses, to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel loss. 7 Disconnect the wiring plug from the fuel level sender unit. 8 To remove the sender unit, engage a flat piece of metal as a lever between two of the slots on the sender unit rim, and turn it anticlockwise. 9 Withdraw the unit carefully, to avoid bending the float arm. 10 Recover the sealing ring.

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, remembering the following points. 12 Examine the condition of the sealing ring, and renew if necessary. 13 Ensure that the marks made on the sender unit and fuel tank before removal are aligned. 14 Ensure that the hoses are reconnected to their correct locations as noted during removal. 15 On completion, fill the fuel tank, then run the engine and check for leaks. Also check that the fuel gauge reads correctly. If leakage is evident, stop the engine immediately and rectify the problem without delay. Note that the engine may take a longer time than usual to start when the sender unit has been removed, as the fuel pump refills with fuel.

9 Fuel vapour separator (1.6

and 1.8 litre models) -

removal and refitting

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding

Removal

1 The fuel vapour separator is located on a bracket attached to the side of the carburettor. 2 Note the locations of the three fuel hoses, labelling them if necessary for use when refitting, then disconnect the hoses from the vapour separator. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire precautions. Plug the open ends of the hoses, to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel spillage. 3 Remove the two securing screws, and lift the vapour separator from its bracket. 4 Check the body of the separator for cracks or leaks before refitting, and renew if necessary.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the three fuel hoses are connected to their correct locations as noted during removal. 6 Run the engine and check the hose connections for leaks on completion. If leakage is evident, stop the engine immediately and rectify the problem without delay.

4A•4 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models

6.4 Withdrawing the fuel pump and plastic insulating block - 1.6 litre model

10 Throttle pedal - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Working inside the vehicle, remove the lower trim panel from the driver’s footwell. 2 Slide the cable retainer from the bracket on the top of the pedal, and disconnect the cable end from the pedal. 3 Extract the circlip from the right-hand end of the pedal pivot shaft, then slide out the pivot shaft from the left-hand side of the pivot bracket (see illustration). Recover the pivot bushes and the pedal return spring. 4 Examine the pivot bushes for wear, and renew if necessary.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on completion check the throttle mechanism for satisfactory operation, and check the throttle cable adjustment, as described in Section 11.

11 Throttle cable - removal,

refitting and adjustment

Removal

1 Remove the air cleaner, on early models. On later models, disconnect the air trunking from the air cleaner, then disconnect the vacuum pipe and breather hose from the air

box. Extract the three securing screws and lift off the air box, complete with air trunking (see

illustration). 2 Extract the clip from the cable end fitting at

the bracket on the carburettor, then slide the cable end grommet from the bracket (see

illustrations). 3 Slide the cable end from the throttle valve

lever on the carburettor. 4 Working inside the vehicle, remove the lower trim panel from the driver’s footwell. 5 Slide the cable retainer from the bracket on the top of the pedal, and disconnect the cable end from the pedal. 6 Make a careful note of the cable routing, then withdraw the cable through the bulkhead into the engine compartment.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, remembering the following points. 8 Ensure that the cable is correctly routed, as noted before removal. 9 Ensure that the bulkhead grommet is correctly seated in its hole.

Adjustment

10 On completion, check the throttle mechanism for satisfactory operation, and if necessary adjust the cable, as described in the following paragraphs. 11 Two points of cable adjustment are provided. A stop screw is located on the pedal arm to control the fully released position of the pedal stop (see illustration). A clip is located on a threaded section of the cable sheath at the bracket on the carburettor, to adjust the cable free play.

12 The cable should be adjusted so that when the throttle pedal is released, there is very slight free play in the cable at the carburettor end. 13 Check that when the throttle pedal is fully depressed, the throttle valve is fully open. Adjust the position of the clip on the cable sheath, and the pedal stop screw, to achieve the desired results.

12 Carburettor - general

1 The Pierburg 2E3 carburettor is of twin-

venturi, fixed-jet sequential throttle type. The primary throttle valve operates alone except at high engine speeds and loads, when the secondary throttle valve is operated, until at full-throttle, both are fully open. This arrangement allows good fuel economy during light acceleration and cruising, but also gives maximum power at full-throttle. The secondary throttle valve is vacuum-operated, according to the vacuum produced in the primary venturi. The primary throttle barrel and venturi diameters are smaller than their secondary counterparts. The carburettor is a complicated instrument, with various refinements and sub-systems added to achieve improved driveability, economy and exhaust emission levels (see illustrations).

Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•5

11.2A Extract the throttle cable end clip . . .

12.1A Side view of carburettor, showing

accelerator pump (1) and main choke pull-

down diaphragm unit (2)

11.11 Throttle pedal stop screw11.2B . . .and slide the grommet from the

bracket

11.1 Removing an air box securing screw10.3 Throttle pedal pivot assembly. Circlip

arrowed

2 A separate idle system operates independently from the main jet system, supplying fuel by way of the mixture control screw. 3 The main jets are calibrated to suit engine requirements at mid-range throttle openings. To provide the necessary fuel enrichment at full throttle, a vacuum-operated power valve is used. The valve provides extra fuel under the low vacuum conditions associated with wide throttle openings. 4 To provide an enriched mixture during acceleration, an accelerator pump delivers extra fuel to the primary main venturi. The accelerator pump is operated mechanically by a cam on the throttle linkage. 5 A fully automatic choke is fitted, operated by a coolant and electrically heated bi-metal coil. When the engine is cold, the bi-metal coil is fully wound up, holding the choke plate (fitted to the primary barrel) closed. As the engine warms up, the bi-metal coil is heated and therefore unwinds, progressively opening the choke plate. A vacuum operated pulldown system is employed, whereby, if the engine is under choke but is only cruising (i.e. not under heavy load) the choke plate is opened against the action of the bi-metal coil. The pull-down system prevents an over-rich mixture, which reduces fuel economy and may cause unnecessary engine wear when the engine is cold. A secondary pull-down solenoid is fitted, which operates in conjunction with the main diaphragm unit to modify the pull-down characteristics, improving fuel economy. 6 1.8 litre models are fitted with an idle cut-off solenoid. This is an electrically operated valve, which interrupts the idle mixture circuit when the ignition is switched off, this preventing engine “run-on”.

13 Carburettor - removal,

overhaul and refitting

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. New gasket(s) must be used when refitting the carburettor. A tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser will be required to check the idle speed and mixture on completion

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the air cleaner, on early models.

On later models, disconnect the air trunking from the air cleaner, then disconnect the vacuum pipe and breather hose from the air box. Extract the three securing screws and lift off the air box, complete with air trunking. 3 On 1.4 litre models, disconnect the fuel supply hose from the carburettor, and on 1.6 and 1.8 litre models, disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses from the vapour separator. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire precautions. Plug the ends of the hoses, to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel spillage. 4 Extract the clip from the throttle cable end fitting at the bracket on the carburettor, then slide the cable end grommet from the bracket, and slide the cable end from the throttle valve lever. 5 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the automatic choke housing noting their locations, as an aid to refitting. Be prepared for coolant spillage, and plug the hoses, or secure them with their ends facing upwards, to prevent further coolant loss. 6 Disconnect the vacuum pipes from the front of the carburettor, noting their locations and routing for use when refitting (see

illustration). 7 Disconnect the choke heater wire and any

additional wiring.

8 Unscrew the three securing nuts, and withdraw the carburettor from the inlet manifold studs. 9 Recover the gasket(s) and insulator block that fit between the carburettor and the inlet manifold.

Overhaul

10 With the carburettor removed from the vehicle, drain the fuel from the float chamber and vapour separator (where applicable). Clean the outside of the carburettor, then remove the top cover (Section 15). 11 Blow through the jets and drillings with compressed air, or air from a foot pump - do not probe them with wire. If it is wished to remove the jets, unscrew them carefully with well-fitting tools. 12 Remove the fuel filter gauze from the inlet union, refer to Section 21, for details. Vauxhall recommend that it is renewed whenever the carburettor is cleaned.

4A•6 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models

12.1B Side view of carburettor, showing automatic choke

housing (1), vapour separator (2) and secondary throttle valve

vacuum diaphragm (3)

12.1C Side view of carburettor, showing secondary choke pulldown solenoid (1) and power valve (2)

13.6 Disconnecting the air box vacuum

pipe from the carburettor - 1.6 litre model

Aerosol cans of carburettor cleaner are widely available and can prove useful in helping to clean internal

passages of stubborn obstructions.

13 Clean any foreign matter from the float chamber. Renew the float, the float needle valve and seat if wear is evident, or if the float is punctured or otherwise damaged. Check that the needle valve closes completely before the float reaches the top of its movement. See Section 15, for details of float level checking. 14 Renew the diaphragms in the part-load enrichment valve and in the accelerator pump. If additional pump or valve parts are supplied in the overhaul kit, renew these parts also. 15 Further dismantling is not recommended. Pay particular attention to the throttle opening mechanism arrangement if it is decided to dismantle it; the interlocking arrangement is important. 16 Reassemble in the reverse order to dismantling. Use new gaskets and seals throughout; lubricate linkages with a smear of molybdenum based grease.

Refitting

17 Carry out the following procedure before refitting.

a) Position the fast idle adjustment screw on

the highest step of the fast idle cam.

b) Use a gauge rod or twist drill of the

specified diameter to measure the opening of the primary throttle valve.

c) Adjust if necessary at the fast idle

adjustment screw.

d) Note that this is a preliminary adjustment;

final adjustment of the fast idle speed should take place with the engine running.

18 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but renew the gasket(s). 19 After refitting, carry out the following checks and adjustments. 20 Check the throttle cable free play and adjust if necessary, as described in Section 11. 21 Check and if necessary top-up the coolant level, as described in Chapter 3. 22 Check and if necessary adjust the idle speed and mixture, as described in Section 14.

14 Idle speed and mixture -

adjustment

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. To carry out the adjustments, an accurate tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will be required

1 To check the idle speed and mixture adjustment, the following conditions must be met:

a) The engine must be at normal operating

temperature

b) All electrical consumers (cooling fan,

heater blower, headlamps, etc.) must be switched off

c) The ignition timing and spark plug gaps

must be correctly adjusted - see Chapters 1 and 5

d) The throttle cable free play must be

correctly adjusted - see Section 11

e) The air inlet trunking must be free from

leaks, and the air filter must be clean

f) On automatic models, always select

position, “P”.

2 Connect a tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser to the vehicle, according to the equipment manufacturer’s instructions. 3 Start the engine, and run it at 2000 rpm for approximately 30 seconds, then allow it to idle. If the idle speed is outside the specified limits, adjust by means of the throttle stop screw (see illustration). 4 When the idle speed is correct, check the CO level in the exhaust gas. If it is outside the specified limits, adjust by means of the idle mixture adjustment screw. In production, the screw is covered by a tamperproof plug; ensure that no local or national laws are being broken before removing the plug (see

illustration). 5 On automatic models, when position “D” is

selected (all electrical systems switched off), the idle speed should not drop perceptibly. If it does, the vehicle should be taken to a Vauxhall dealer for the idle-up system to be checked using special Vauxhall test equipment. 6 With the idle mixture correct, readjust the idle speed if necessary. 7 If the cooling fan cuts in during the adjustment procedure, stop the adjustments, and continue when the cooling fan stops. 8 When both idle speed and mixture are correctly set, stop the engine and disconnect the test equipment. 9 Fit a new tamperproof plug to the idle mixture adjustment screw, where this is required by law.

15 Needle valve and float -

removal, inspection and refitting

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. A new carburettor top cover gasket must be used on reassembly. A tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser will be required to check the idle speed and mixture on completion

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the round air cleaner, on

applicable models. On other models, disconnect the air trunking from the air cleaner, then disconnect the vacuum pipe and breather hose from the air box. Extract the three securing screws and lift off the air box, complete with air trunking. 3 Thoroughly clean all external dirt from the carburettor. 4 Disconnect the fuel supply hose at the carburettor. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire precautions. Plug the end of the hose, to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel spillage. 5 Identify the automatic choke coolant hose locations as an aid to refitting, then disconnect the hoses. Be prepared for coolant spillage, and either plug the hoses, or secure them with their ends facing upwards, to prevent further coolant loss.

6 Disconnect the choke heater wiring plug. 7 Disconnect the lower vacuum hoses from

the choke pull-down unit. 8 Remove the four carburettor top cover securing screws, noting their locations, as two lengths of screw are used (see illustration). 9 Lift off the top cover and recover the gasket.

Inspection

10 Hold the cover vertically, so that the float is hanging from its pivot. Then tilt the cover until the float needle valve is just closed - the needle spring must not be compressed by the weight of the float.

11 Measure the distance, dimension x (see illustration), from the bottom of the float to

the gasket surface on the top cover’s

Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•7

15.8 Carburettor top cover securing screws (arrowed)

14.4 Tamperproof plug (arrowed) covering idle mixture adjustment screw

14.3 Carburettor idle speed adjustment (throttle stop) screw (arrowed)

underside. If the distance measured exceeds, or is less than, that specified, the float weight is incorrect and the float must be renewed. 12 When the float level is known to be correct, reassemble the carburettor, using a new top cover gasket. Check the idle speed and mixture settings as described in Section

14. 13 Using a pin punch, tap the float retaining pin from the base of the top cover, and lift out the float and needle valve. 14 Inspect the components for damage, and renew as necessary. Check the needle valve for wear, and check the float for leaks by shaking it to see if it contains petrol. 15 Clean the mating faces of the carburettor body and top cover.

Refitting

16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, remembering the following points. 17 After refitting, check the float and needle valve for full and free movement. 18 Use a new gasket between the top cover and the carburettor body. 19 Ensure that all hoses, pipes and wires are correctly reconnected. 20 On completion, check and if necessary top-up the coolant level, as described in Chapter 3, and check and if necessary adjust the idle speed and mixture, as described in Section 14.

16 Secondary throttle valve

vacuum diaphragm - testing,

removal and refitting

Note: The diaphragm unit must be renewed in its entirety, as no spares are available

Testing

1 If a vacuum source incorporating a gauge is available, apply approximately 300 mbars (9 in Hg) to the diaphragm unit, at the hose nearest the carburettor body. Close off the vacuum source, and check that the vacuum is held. If there is a leak, rectify or renew the leaking component. Alternately, testing of a suspect vacuum unit must be by the substitution of a known good item.

Removal

2 Remove the air cleaner, on early models. On later models, disconnect the air trunking from the air cleaner, then disconnect the vacuum pipe air breather hose from the air box. Extract the three securing screws and lift off the air box, complete with air trunking. 3 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the diaphragm unit. 4 Prise the diaphragm operating rod balljoint from the secondary throttle valve linkage. 5 On 1.6 and 1.8 litre models, remove the two securing screws and lift the vapour separator from the bracket. Move the vapour separator to one side, taking care not to strain the fuel hoses.

6 Remove the three securing screws, and withdraw the diaphragm unit complete with its bracket from the carburettor body.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

17 Power valve diaphragm -

removal and refitting

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the air cleaner, on early models.

On later models, disconnect the air trunking from the air cleaner, then disconnect the vacuum pipe and breather hose from the air

box. Extract the three securing screws and lift off the air box, complete with air trunking. 3 Thoroughly clean all external dirt from the area around the power valve housing. 4 Remove the two securing screws, and lift off the power valve cover, spring, and diaphragm assembly.

Refitting

5 Clean the mating faces of the cover and housing. 6 Locate the spring on the cover and diaphragm assembly, ensuring that it is correctly seated, then press the diaphragm assembly and cover together. Note that the vacuum hole in the diaphragm must align with the corresponding holes in the housing flange and cover. 7 Further refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the diaphragm is correctly seated

(see illustration).

18 Accelerator pump - testing,

removal and refitting

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding

Testing

1 It will be necessary to feed the float chamber with fuel from a small reservoir during this test. 2 Position the primary barrel over an accurate measuring glass. Fully open and close the throttle ten times, taking approximately one second for each opening, and pausing for three seconds after each return stroke. Make sure that the fast idle cam is not restricting throttle travel at either end. 3 Measure the quantity of fuel delivered, and compare this with the specified value.

4A•8 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models

15.11 Measuring the float level “X”

17.7 Carburettor power valve components

1 Cover 2 Spring

3 Diaphragm

assembly

4 If adjustment is necessary, release the clamp screw and turn the cam plate in the desired direction. Tighten the clamp screw, and recheck the pump delivery (see illustration).

Removal

5 Proceed as described in Section 17, paragraphs 1 and 2. 6 Thoroughly clean all external dirt from the area around the accelerator pump housing. 7 Remove the four securing screws and lift off the accelerator pump cover. Recover the diaphragm, spring, valve retainer and valve. Note the orientation of the valve retainer.

Refitting

8 Clean the mating faces of the cover and housing. 9 Check the condition of the valve, and renew if necessary. 10 Begin refitting by locating the valve, valve retainer and spring in the housing. Note that the valve retainer can only be fitted in one position. The larger diameter of the spring should rest against the valve retainer. 11 Locate the diaphragm on the housing, ensuring that the spring is correctly seated, and refit the cover. Tighten the cover securing screws progressively to avoid distorting the diaphragm (see illustration).

12 Further refitting is a reversal of removal.

19 Automatic choke unit -

removal, refitting and adjustment

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. A tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser will be required to check the idle speed and mixture on completion. If the coolant housing is removed, new O-rings will be required for refitting

Removal

1 Proceed as described in Section 17, paragraphs 1 and 2. 2 Note the position of the bi-metal housing alignment marks as an aid to refitting, if necessary making additional marks for clarity, then remove the three securing screws and lift off the bi-metal housing. Place the housing to one side, taking care not to strain the coolant hoses or electric choke heater wiring. 3 Remove the three screws securing the choke housing to the carburettor body, and withdraw the choke assembly, taking care not to bend the choke operating rod. 4 If it is necessary to remove the bi-metal housing for renewal, continue as follows; otherwise go on to paragraph 8. 5 Identify the automatic choke coolant hose locations as an aid to refitting, then disconnect the hoses. Be prepared for coolant spillage, and either plug the hoses, or secure them with their ends facing upwards, to prevent further loss of coolant. 6 Disconnect the wiring from the electric choke heater, and withdraw the bi-metal housing. 7 The coolant housing can be separated from the bi-metal housing by unscrewing the central securing bolt. Recover the O-rings from under the bolt head, and from the rim of the coolant housing.

Refitting

8 Begin refitting by locating the choke assembly on the carburettor body, ensuring that the lever on the choke assembly engages with the choke operating rod. Tighten the three securing screws. 9 Check and if necessary adjust the choke valve gap and the fast idle cam position, as described in paragraphs 15 to 19, of this Section.

10 Connect the bi-metal spring to the choke lever, position the bi-metal housing on the choke housing, and loosely fit the securing screws. Align the marks on the bi-metal housing and the choke housing as noted during removal, then tighten the securing screws. 11 Where applicable, refit the coolant housing to the bi-metal housing, using new Orings if necessary, and reconnect the coolant hoses and electric choke heater wiring. 12 Further refitting is a reversal of removal, remembering the following points. 13 If the coolant hoses have been disconnected, check the coolant level, as described in Chapter 3. 14 Check and if necessary adjust the fast idle speed, as described in paragraphs 25 to 34, of this Section.

Adjustment

Choke valve gap

15 With the bi-metal housing removed as

described in paragraphs 2 to 4, of this Section, continue as follows. 16 Press the choke operating lever fully clockwise, and retain it in position with a rubber band. 17 Move the throttle lever to the fully open position, and measure the choke valve gap between the lower side of the choke plate and the wall of the primary barrel. Check that the gap is as given in the Specifications. 18 If necessary, adjust the choke valve gap by bending the “adjuster segment (2)” If the gap is too small, enlarge gap “B”, by levering with a screwdriver. If the gap is too large, decrease gap “B” using a pair of pliers (see

illustration). 19 If no further adjustments are to be carried

out, refit the bi-metal housing, as described in paragraphs 10 to 14, of this Section.

Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•9

18.11 Carburettor accelerator pump components

1 Cover with operating lever 2 Diaphragm 3 Spring

4 Valve 5 Air passage

18.4 Accelerator pump delivery adjustment: “+” to increase, “-” to reduce

Fast idle cam position

20 With the bi-metal housing removed, and

the choke valve gap “B”, correctly set, continue as follows. 21 Open the throttle valve, then close the choke valve using light finger pressure on the choke drive lever (see illustration). Close the throttle valve. 22 Check that the fast idle speed adjustment screw is resting against the stop on the second highest step of the fast idle cam. 23 If adjustment is required, first check that the choke return spring is correctly positioned, then adjust by bending the adjustment lever. 24 Refit the bi-metal housing, as described in paragraphs 10 to 14 of this Section.

Fast idle speed

Note: To carry out the adjustment, an

accurate tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will be required

25 Check the idle speed and mixture, as described in Section 14. The idle speed must be correct before attempting to check or adjust the fast idle speed. 26 With the engine at normal operating temperature, and a tachometer connected according to the equipment manufacturer’s instructions, continue as follows. 27 Position the fast idle speed adjustment screw on the second highest step of the fast idle cam (see illustration). 28 Start the engine without touching the throttle pedal, and check that the fast idle speed is as specified. If adjustment is required, stop the engine and continue as follows.

29 Remove the tamperproof cap from the fast idle speed adjustment screw, ensure that no local or national laws are being broken by doing so (see illustration). 30 Ensure that the adjustment screw is still resting on the second highest step of the fast idle cam, then start the engine, again without touching the throttle pedal. 31 Turn the adjustment screw using a screwdriver, until the specified fast idle speed is obtained. 32 If the cooling fan cuts in during the adjustment procedure, stop the adjustments, and continue when the cooling fan stops. 33 On completion of adjustment, stop the engine and disconnect the tachometer. 34 Fit a new tamperproof cap to the fast idle speed adjustment screw, where this is required by law.

20 Automatic choke vacuum

pull-down units - removal,

refitting and adjustment

Main diaphragm unit

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. A new star clip must be used when refitting the diaphragm unit. Test vacuum units as described in Section 16, paragraph 1.

Removal

1 Proceed as described in Section 17,

paragraphs 1 and 2. 2 Disconnect the diaphragm unit vacuum pipes. 3 Using a pin punch, tap out the roll pin securing the diaphragm unit to the carburettor top cover. 4 Note the position of the bi-metal housing alignment marks as an aid to refitting, if necessary making additional marks for clarity, then remove the three securing screws, and lift off the bi-metal housing. Place the housing to one side, taking care not to strain the coolant hoses or electric choke heater wiring.

4A•10 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models

19.18 Choke valve gap adjustment

1 Choke operating lever 2 Adjuster segment B Choke valve gap

19.21 Fast idle cam adjustment

1 Fast idle cam 2 Adjustment lever 3 Choke drive lever 4 Fast idle speed adjustment screw

19.29 Tamperproof cap (arrowed) fast idle speed adjustment screw

19.27 Fast idle speed adjustment

3 Fast idle speed adjustment screw 4 Screw positioned on second highest step of cam

5 Remove the three screws securing the choke assembly to the carburettor body. Allow the choke assembly to drop down, but do not disconnect the choke linkage. 6 Remove the star clip that secures the diaphragm unit to the carburettor top cover, and withdraw the diaphragm unit.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a

new star clip to secure the diaphragm unit to the carburettor top cover. Before refitting the air box to the top of the carburettor, check and if necessary adjust the choke pull-down, as follows.

Vacuum pull-down

Adjustment

8 With the air cleaner or air box removed from

the top of the carburettor, as described in Section 17, paragraph 2, continue as follows. 9 Note the position of the bi-metal housing alignment marks as an aid to refitting, if necessary making additional marks for clarity, then remove the three securing screws, and lift off the bi-metal housing. Place the housing to one side, taking care not to strain the coolant hoses or electric choke heater wiring. 10 Position the fast idle speed adjustment screw on the highest step of the fast idle cam, and check that the choke valve is closed. 11 Move the pull-down arm towards the diaphragm unit by pushing on the adjustment screw until resistance is felt. Hold the arm in this position. 12 Using a drill shank of appropriate diameter, or a similar item, measure the clearance between the lower side of the choke plate and the wall of the primary barrel (see illustrations). Check that the clearance is as given for the “small” choke pull-down gap in the Specifications. 13 If adjustment is necessary, turn the adjustment screw in the appropriate direction, using an Allen key, until the clearance is correct.

14 Now push the pull-down arm towards the diaphragm unit as far as its stop, and hold the arm in this position. 15 As before measure the clearance between the lower side of the choke plate and the wall of the primary barrel. Check that the clearance is as given for the “large” choke pull-down gap in the Specifications. 16 If adjustment is necessary, turn the adjustment screw in the appropriate direction until the clearance is correct. 17 Connect the bi-metal spring to the choke lever, position the bi-metal housing on the choke housing and loosely fit the securing screws. Align the marks on the bi-metal housing and the choke housing as noted during removal, then tighten the securing screws. 18 Refit the air box to the top of the carburettor on completion.

Secondary pull-down solenoid

Removal

19 This unit operates in conjunction with the

main diaphragm unit. 20 To remove the solenoid unit, first continue as described in Section 17, paragraphs 1 and

2. 21 Disconnect the diaphragm unit vacuum pipe.

22 Disconnect the wiring plug, then unscrew the securing screw, and withdraw the solenoid unit and its mounting bracket from the carburettor. Note that the securing screw also secures the wiring plug earth lead (see

illustration).

Refitting

23 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but

ensure that the wiring plug earth lead is in place under the solenoid bracket securing screw.

21 Carburettor filter - removal

and refitting

Removal

1 A small tubular filter gauze is fitted into the carburettor top cover’s fuel inlet union to remove any particles of dirt from the fuel. 2 To ensure a clean fuel supply and to prevent the risk of misfiring, poor starting or other problems due to a restricted fuel supply, this filter must be cleaned and/or renewed at the interval specified in Chapter 1. 3 To reach the filter, remove the air cleaner or air box, as applicable, then disconnect and plug the hose from the fuel pump or vapour separator to the top cover union. 4 Remove the filter by hooking it out with a small screwdriver, or by snaring it with a long thin screw (3 mm thread size, screwed approximately 5 mm into the filter). 5 If the filter is blocked or heavily fouled, or if it is torn, distorted or damaged in any way, it must be renewed. If it is fit for further use, clean it using a jet of compressed air or by brushing away particles of dirt with an old soft toothbrush. Then flushing it in clean solvent, taking care not to allow any overspray to get into your eyes; if petrol is used, take care to prevent the risk of fire.

Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•11

20.12B Checking the vacuum pull-down gap using a twist drill

20.22 Secondary choke pull-down

solenoid securing screw and earth lead

20.12A Choke vacuum pull-down adjustment

1 Adjustment screw 2 Diaphragm unit A Twist drill

Refitting

6 On refitting the filter, press it into the union until it catches (see illustration). The remainder of the reassembly procedure is the reverse of removal.

22 Throttle valve dashpot

(automatic models) -

adjustment

1 Remove the air cleaner or air box, refer to Section 3. 2 Ensure that the lever (see illustration) is in the idling position. 3 Slacken the locknut and unscrew the dashpot until a gap of 0.05 mm (0.002 in) exists between the lever and the dashpot tip. Then screw the dashpot downwards 2.5 full turns and tighten the locknut.

4 Refit all removed components.

23 Throttle position sensor

(automatic transmission models) - removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 Disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor. 3 Either unscrew the two securing screws

and withdraw the sensor from its bracket, or unbolt the bracket.

Refitting

4 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points.

a) Install the sensor when the throttle valve

is fully closed and ensure that the adapter, “1” (see illustration), seats correctly on the throttle valve spindle.

b) Tighten the screws carefully.

24 Idle speed increase valve -

testing

1 Certain models are fitted with an idle speed increase valve that is attached to the side of the carburettor. 2 To test the operation of this valve first remove the air filter and vacuum hose. 3 With the valve’s plug connected, have someone turn the ignition on (but do not start the engine). A mechanical shifting noise should be heard. If not replace the unit. 4 After refitting replace the vacuum hose and air filter.

25 Idle cut-off solenoid (1.8 litre

models) - description and

testing

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding

Description

1 On 1.8 litre models, the carburettor is fitted with an idle cut-off solenoid. This is an electrically operated valve, which interrupts the idle mixture circuit when the ignition is

switched off, thus preventing the engine from running-on (see illustration). 2 The idle cut-off solenoid is energised all the time that the ignition is switched on. A defective solenoid, or a break in its power supply, will cause the engine to stall or idle roughly, although it will run normally at speed.

Testing

3 If the operation of the solenoid is suspect, first check that battery voltage is present at the solenoid terminal when the ignition is switched on. Use a 12 volt test lamp or similar test device. 4 If no voltage is present, then the fault lies in the wiring to the solenoid. If voltage is present, the solenoid can be tested as follows. 5 With the solenoid unscrewed from the carburettor, connect the body of the solenoid to the negative terminal of a 12 volt battery. When the battery positive terminal is connected to the solenoid centre terminal, there should be an audible click, and the needle at the tip of the solenoid should retract. 6 A defective idle cut-off solenoid must be renewed.

26 Inlet manifold - removal and

refitting

Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. A new manifold gasket must be used on refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Drain the cooling system, as described in

Chapter 3. 3 Proceed as described in Section 13, paragraphs 2 to 7 inclusive, ignoring the reference to coolant spillage in paragraph 5.

4A•12 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models

21.6 Refitting the carburettor fuel filter

23.4 Throttle position sensor - models with automatic transmission

1 Adapter 2 Sensor

22.2 Adjusting the throttle valve dashpot - models with automatic transmission

1 Lever 2 Locknut 3 Dashpot

4 Disconnect the coolant hose from the rear of the manifold (see illustration). 5 Where applicable, disconnect the camshaft cover breather hose from the rear of the manifold (see illustration). 6 Unscrew the union and disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose from the manifold. 7 On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models, disconnect the wiring from the temperature gauge sender. 8 Unscrew and remove the top alternator mounting nut and bolt. 9 On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models, disconnect and remove the stub hose that connects the crankcase breather tube to the rear of the camshaft housing. 10 Make a final check to ensure that all relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been disconnected. 11 Unscrew the securing nuts, and withdraw the manifold from the cylinder head (see illustration). Note the position of the rear engine lifting bracket, which is secured by one of the manifold nuts, and recover the manifold

gasket. 12 It is possible that some of the manifold studs may be unscrewed from the cylinder head when the manifold securing nuts are unscrewed. In this event, the studs should be screwed back into the cylinder head once the manifold has been removed, using two manifold nuts locked together. 13 If desired, the carburettor can be removed from the manifold, referring to Section 13, if necessary.

Refitting

14 Refitting is a reversal of removal, remembering the following points. 15 If the carburettor has been removed from the manifold, refit it, using a new gasket. 16 If the alternator mounting bracket has been unbolted from the manifold, refit it before refitting the manifold, as access to the securing bolt is extremely limited once the manifold is in place. 17 Refit the manifold using a new gasket,

and ensure that the engine lifting bracket is in place under the relevant manifold nut. Tighten the nuts to the specified torque. 18 Ensure that all relevant hoses, pipes and wires are correctly reconnected. 19 Refill the cooling system, as described in Chapter 3. 20 Check the throttle cable free play and adjust if necessary, as described in Section

11. 21 If the carburettor has been disturbed, check and if necessary adjust the idle speed and mixture, as described in Section 14.

Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•13

26.5 . . .and the camshaft cover breather hose (arrowed) from the inlet manifold -

1.6 litre model

26.11 Withdrawing the inlet manifold -

1.6 litre model

26.4 Disconnecting the coolant hose . . .

25.1 Carburettor idle cut-off solenoid (arrowed) - 1.8 litre models

4A•14

Notes

Wiper blades

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 ins. Champion X-4803

Fuses

Rating:

Red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 A

Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 A

Yellow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 A

Green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 A

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Airbag unit to steering wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Airbag control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Brackets, passenger airbag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16

Passenger airbag to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6

Steering to column . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Chapter 12

Body electrical systems

Aerial - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47

Aerial mast, electric - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

Airbag - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55

Airbag contact unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58

Airbag control unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61

Airbag unit, drivers side - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56

Airbag unit, passengers side - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .59

Anti-theft alarm - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53

Anti-theft alarm system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . .54

Bracket, passenger airbag unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .60

Brake lamp switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Central door locking components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .46

Check control system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . .21

Cigarette lighter - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Clock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Courtesy lamp switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Direction indicator/lighting switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .5

Electric door mirror switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Electric window components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Electric window controls - programming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45

Electrical fault-finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Exterior lamp bulbs - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Facia panel switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Front indicator lamp unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Front foglamp - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Fuses and relays - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Handbrake “on” warning lamp switch - removal and refitting . . . . . .13

Headlamp aim adjustment motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .26

Headlamp dim-dip system - general, removal and refitting . . . . . . . .28

Headlamp unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Headlamp washer fluid non-return valve - removal and refitting . . . .43

Headlamp wiper motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40

Headlamps - alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Heated front seats - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Horn(s) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Ignition switch and lock cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .4

Instrument panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Instrument panel components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Interior lamp bulbs - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Interior lamps - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Luggage compartment lamp switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . .11

Number plate lamp - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Oil pressure warning lamp switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .14

Radio/cassette player - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50

Rear lamp unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Reversing lamp switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 7A

Side repeater lamp - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Speakers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49

Speedometer cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52

Steering wheel (with airbag) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57

Sunroof motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51

Sunroof operating switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Tailgate wiper motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

Trip computer components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Wash/wipe switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Washer fluid reservoir - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

Washer nozzles - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Washer pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

Windscreen wiper motor and linkage - removal and refitting . . . . . . .38

Wiper arms - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Wiper blades - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Wiring diagrams - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62

12•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

1 General information and

precautions

The electrical system is of 12-volt negative earth type. Power for the lights and all electrical accessories is supplied by a lead/acid type battery, which is charged by the alternator.

This Chapter covers repair and service procedures for the various electrical components not associated with engine. Information on the battery, alternator and starter motor can be found in Chapter 5.

It should be noted that, before working on any component in the electrical system, the battery negative terminal should first be disconnected, to prevent the possibility of electrical short-circuits and/or fires.

Whenever the occasion arises, carefully check the routing of the wiring harness, ensuring that it is correctly secured by the clips or ties provided so that it cannot chafe against other components. Carefully check points such as the clutch cable bracket, clutch housing and harness support bracket, the inlet manifold, the horn mounting bracket, the starter motor terminals, and the rear bumper and number plate lamp.

If evidence is found of the harness having chafed against other components, repair the damage and ensure that the harness is secured or protected so that the problem cannot occur again.

2 Electrical fault-finding -

general information

Note: Refer to the precautions given in “Safety first!” (at the beginning of this manual) and to Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work. The following tests relate to testing of the main electrical circuits, and should not be used to test delicate electronic circuits (such as antilock braking systems), particularly where an electronic control module is used.

A typical electrical circuit consists of an electrical component, any switches, relays, motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers related to that component, and the wiring and connectors that link the component to both

the battery and the chassis. To help to pinpoint a problem in an electrical circuit, wiring diagrams are included at the end of this Chapter.

Before attempting to diagnose an electrical fault, first study the appropriate wiring diagram, to obtain a complete understanding of the components included in the particular circuit concerned. The possible sources of a fault can be narrowed down by noting whether other components related to the circuit are operating properly. If several components or circuits fail at one time, the problem is likely to be related to a shared fuse or earth connection.

Electrical problems usually stem from simple causes, such as loose or corroded connections, a faulty earth connection, a blown fuse, a melted fusible link, or a faulty relay (refer to Section 3 for details of testing relays). Visually inspect the condition of all fuses, wires and connections in a problem circuit before testing the components. Use the wiring diagrams to determine which terminal connections will need to be checked, to pinpoint the trouble-spot.

The basic tools required for electrical faultfinding include the following:

a) a circuit tester or voltmeter (a 12-volt bulb

with a set of test leads can also be used for certain tests).

b) a self-powered test light (sometimes

known as a continuity tester). c) an ohmmeter (to measure resistance). d) a battery. e) a set of test leads. f) a jumper wire, preferably with a circuit

breaker or fuse incorporated, which can

be used to bypass suspect wires or

electrical components.

Before attempting to locate a problem with test instruments, use the wiring diagram to determine where to make the connections.

To find the source of an intermittent wiring fault (usually due to a poor or dirty connection, or damaged wiring insulation), a “wiggle” test can be performed on the wiring. This involves wiggling the wiring by hand, to see if the fault occurs as the wiring is moved. It should be possible to narrow down the source of the fault to a particular section of wiring. This method of testing can be used in conjunction with any of the tests described in the following sub-Sections.

Apart from problems due to poor connections, two basic types of fault can occur in an electrical circuit - open-circuit, or short-circuit.

Open-circuit faults are caused by a break somewhere in the circuit, which prevents current from flowing. An open-circuit fault will prevent a component from working, but will not cause the relevant circuit fuse to blow.

Short-circuit faults are caused by a “short” somewhere in the circuit, which allows the current flowing in the circuit to “escape” along an alternative route, usually to earth. Shortcircuit faults are normally caused by a

breakdown in wiring insulation, which allows a feed wire to touch either another wire, or an earthed component such as the bodyshell. A short-circuit fault will normally cause the relevant circuit fuse to blow.

Finding an open-circuit

To check for an open-circuit, connect one lead of a circuit tester or voltmeter to either the negative battery terminal or a known good earth.

Connect the other lead to a connector in the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to the battery or fuse.

Switch on the circuit, remembering that some circuits are live only when the ignition switch is moved to a particular position.

If voltage is present (indicated either by the tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading, as applicable), this means that the section of the circuit between the relevant connector and the battery is problem-free.

Continue to check the remainder of the circuit in the same fashion.

When a point is reached at which no voltage is present, the problem must lie between that point and the previous test point with voltage. Most problems can be traced to a broken, corroded or loose connection.

Finding a short-circuit

To check for a short-circuit, first disconnect the load(s) from the circuit (loads are the components that draw current from a circuit, such as bulbs, motors, heating elements, etc.).

Remove the relevant fuse from the circuit, and connect a circuit tester or voltmeter to the fuse connections.

Switch on the circuit, remembering that some circuits are live only when the ignition switch is moved to a particular position.

If voltage is present (indicated either by the tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading, as applicable), this means that there is a shortcircuit.

If no voltage is present, but the fuse still blows with the load(s) connected, this indicates an internal fault in the load(s).

Finding an earth fault

The battery negative terminal is connected to “earth” (the metal of the engine/transmission and the car body), and most systems are wired so that they only receive a positive feed. The current returning through the metal of the car body. This means that the component mounting and the body form part of that circuit. Loose or corroded mountings can therefore cause a range of electrical faults, ranging from total failure of a circuit, to a puzzling partial fault. In particular, lights may shine dimly (especially when another circuit sharing the same earth point is in operation). Motors (e.g. wiper motors or the radiator cooling fan motor) may run slowly, and the operation of one circuit may have an affect on another. Note that on many vehicles, earth straps are used between certain components, such as the engine/transmission and the body, usually where there is no metal-

12•2 Body electrical systems

Warning: Before carrying out any work on the electrical system, read through the

precautions given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of this manual, and in Chapter 5.

Caution: If the radio/cassette player fitted

to the vehicle is one with an anti-theft security code, as the standard unit is, refer to “Radio/cassette player anti-theft system

- precaution” in the Reference Section of this manual before disconnecting the battery.

to-metal contact between components, due to flexible rubber mountings, etc.

To check whether a component is properly earthed, disconnect the battery, and connect one lead of an ohmmeter to a known good earth point. Connect the other lead to the wire or earth connection being tested. The resistance reading should be zero; if not, check the connection as follows.

If an earth connection is thought to be faulty, dismantle the connection, and clean back to bare metal both the bodyshell and the wire terminal or the component earth connection mating surface. Be careful to remove all traces of dirt and corrosion, then use a knife to trim away any paint, so that a clean metal-to-metal joint is made. On reassembly, tighten the joint fasteners securely; if a wire terminal is being refitted, use serrated washers between the terminal and the bodyshell, to ensure a clean and secure connection. When the connection is remade, prevent the onset of corrosion in the future by applying a coat of petroleum jelly or silicone-based grease.

3 Fuses and relays - general

Fuses

1 Fuses are designed to break a circuit when a predetermined current is reached, to protect the components and wiring which could be damaged by excessive current flow. Any excessive current flow will be due to a fault in the circuit, usually a short-circuit (Section 2). 2 The main fuses and relays are located in a panel at the lower right-hand side of the facia, under a hinged cover (see illustration). 3 The circuits protected by the various fuses and relays are marked on the inside of the panel cover. 4 A blown fuse can be recognised from its melted or broken wire. 5 To remove a fuse, first ensure that the relevant circuit is switched off. Then open the cover and pull the relevant fuse or relay from the panel (see illustration). If desired, the lower end of the panel can be tilted forwards, after releasing the retaining clips to improve access.

6 Before renewing a blown fuse, trace and rectify the cause, and always use a fuse of the correct rating. Never substitute a fuse of a higher rating, or make temporary repairs using wire or metal foil, as more serious damage or even fire could result. 7 Spare fuses are provided in the blank terminal positions in the fusebox. 8 Note that the fuses are colour-coded, see Specifications. Refer to the wiring diagrams for details of the fuse ratings and the circuits protected.

Relays

9 A relay is an electrically operated switch, which is used for the following reasons:

a) A relay can switch a heavy current

remotely from the circuit in which the current is flowing, allowing the use of lighter-gauge wiring and switch contacts.

b) A relay can receive more than one control

input, unlike a mechanical switch.

c) A relay can have a timer function - for

example, the intermittent wiper relay.

10 Most of the relays are located at the rear of the main fusebox (remove the securing screws and pull the fusebox forwards to improve access). The rear wiper motor relay is located in the tailgate, behind the tailgate trim panel. On some models, additional enginerelated relays are located in the relay box mounted on the left-hand side of the engine compartment. 11 On certain models, additional relays are located in a box at the left-hand rear of the engine compartment (see illustration). 12 If a circuit or system controlled by a relay develops a fault, and the relay is suspect, operate the system. If the relay is functioning, it should be possible to hear it “click” as it is energised. If this is the case, the fault lies with the components or wiring of the system. If the relay is not being energised, then either the relay is not receiving a main supply or a switching voltage, or the relay itself is faulty. Testing is by the substitution of a known good unit, but be careful - while some relays are identical in appearance and in operation, others look similar but perform different functions. 13 To remove a relay, first ensure that the relevant circuit is switched off. The relay can then simply be pulled out from the socket, and pushed back into position.

4 Ignition switch and lock

cylinder - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Turn the steering wheel as necessary to

expose the two front steering column shroud securing screws, which are covered by plastic caps. Prise out the caps and remove the screws. 3 Remove the three securing screws from the underside of the lower column shroud, then remove both the upper and lower shrouds. 4 To remove the lock cylinder, insert the ignition key and turn it to position “II”. 5 Insert a thin rod into the hole in the lock housing, then press the rod to release the detent spring, and pull out the lock cylinder using the key. 6 The ignition switch is secured to the steering lock housing by two grub screws. Disconnect the wiring plug, and remove the screws to extract the switch (see illustration). Removal of the steering wheel, may aid removal. Refer to Chapter 10 or Section 57, as applicable. It is recommended that the switch and the lock cylinder are not both removed at the same time, so that their mutual alignment is not lost.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Body electrical systems 12•3

3.11 Relays in engine compartment box -

2.0 litre SRi model shown

4.6 Removing an ignition switch securing screw

3.5 Removing a fuse -

2.0 litre model shown

3.2 Main fuses and relays in facia panel -

2.0 litre SRi model shown

5 Direction indicator/lighting

switch - removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Turn the steering wheel as necessary to

4 Disconnect the wiring plug from the switch. 5 Depress the switch retaining clip, and

withdraw the switch from the housing.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

6 Wash/wipe switch - removal

and refitting

Proceed as described in Section 5.

7 Facia panel switches -

removal and refitting

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

Lighting switch

Removal

2 Turn the switch to the “dipped beam on”

position, then insert a small screwdriver or rod through the hole in the bottom of the switch knob to depress the knob retaining clip. Pull the knob from the switch (see illustration). 3 Press the two now-exposed switch securing clips towards the switch spindle, then pull the switch from the facia and disconnect the wiring plug (see illustrations). 4 Note that the switch assembly cannot be dismantled, and if any part of the switch is faulty, the complete assembly must be renewed.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Push-button switches

Removal

6 First check beneath the switch, if there is a

small hole in the facia, insert a slim screwdriver or metal rod into it. Release the switch retaining spring clip by pressing it upwards against the switch, then remove the switch and disconnect its wiring. If there is no hole, remove the switch by prising it out of the facia using a small screwdriver. Lever gently under the switch’s lower edge (use adhesive tape or a piece of card to protect the facia’s finish). Disconnect the switch wiring plug and withdraw the switch (see illustration).

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Headlamp aim adjustment switch

8 The procedure is as described for pushbutton switches.

Hazard warning switch

Removal

9 Using a screwdriver, carefully prise the cap from the switch (see illustration). 10 Using a screwdriver with a piece of card

under the blade to avoid damage to the facia trim, prise the ventilation nozzle from the facia. 11 Prise the switch from the facia and disconnect the wiring (see illustration).

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Heater blower motor switch

Removal

13 Remove the heater control panel, as

described in Chapter 11. 14 Disconnect the wiring plug from the switch, if not already done. 15 Prise the switch out from the rear of the heater control panel.

Refitting

16 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but refer

to Chapter 11, when refitting the heater control panel.

12•4 Body electrical systems

7.2 Using a thin rod to depress the lightning switch knob retaining clip

7.3B . . . then pull the switch from the facia

7.11 Withdrawing the hazard warning flasher switch from the facia

7.9 Prising the cap from the hazard warning flasher switch

7.6 Prising a push-button switch from the facia

7.3A Press the switch securing clips towards the switch spindle . . .

8 Electric door mirror switch -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Prise the plastic surround from the door

interior handle. 3 Free the trim panel from the top edge of the door by releasing the securing clips. This can be done using a screwdriver, but it is preferable to use a forked tool, to minimise the possibility of damage to the trim panel and the clips. 4 Note the position of the mirror switch wiring connector in the bracket at the top of the door, then separate the two halves of the connector. 5 Prise the switch from the door trim panel, and feed the wiring through the panel.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the wiring is correctly routed, so as not to foul the door interior handle mechanism.

9 Sunroof operating switch -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Prise the courtesy lamp from the roof trim

panel, and disconnect the wiring. 3 Remove the two trim panel securing screws, and withdraw the trim panel from the roof, disconnecting the wiring from the sunroof operating switch. 4 Release the securing clips, then pull the switch from the rear face of the trim panel.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

10 Courtesy lamp switch -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Open the door and remove the switch

securing screw. 3 Withdraw the switch from the door pillar, and pull the wiring out sufficiently to prevent it from springing back into the pillar.

4 Disconnect the wiring and remove the switch.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

11 Luggage compartment lamp

switch - removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Open the boot lid or tailgate, as applicable,

and remove the switch securing screw. 3 Withdraw the switch from the body panel, and pull the wiring out sufficiently to prevent it from springing back into the body. 4 Disconnect the wiring and remove the switch.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

12 Brake lamp switch - removal

and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the lower trim panel from the

driver’s footwell. 3 Disconnect the wiring plug from the brake lamp switch, then twist the switch anti-clockwise and remove it from its bracket.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

13 Handbrake “on” warning

lamp switch - removal and

refitting

For access to the switch, the handbrake lever must be removed. Removal and refitting of the switch is described as part of the handbrake lever removal and refitting procedure, in Chapter 9.

14 Oil pressure warning lamp

switch - removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 The switch is screwed into the oil pump, on

the inlet manifold side of the engine. On 1.4 and 1.6 litre (except C16 NZ2), models the switch projects at right-angles to the crankshaft axis, while on C16 NZ2, 1.8 and

2.0 litre models it is parallel to the crankshaft

(see illustration). 3 In most cases the switch can be reached

quite easily from above. However, on some models access will be easier if the front of the vehicle is jacked up and supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”) (ensure that the handbrake is securely applied) and the front right-hand roadwheel is removed. 4 Disconnect the switch wire and use a spanner to unscrew the switch (see illustration). As you withdraw the switch, swiftly plug the hole in the oil pump to minimise the loss of oil and to prevent the entry of dirt.

Refitting

5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure; tighten the switch securely but do not overtighten it, reconnect its wire, then check and if necessary top-up the oil level, as described in Chapter 1. Wash off any spilt oil and check for leaks when the engine is restarted.

15 Cigarette lighter - removal

and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Slide the ashtray/cigarette lighter assembly

from the facia, then disconnect the wiring and slide the illumination bulb from the cigarette lighter.

Body electrical systems 12•5

14.4 Unscrewing the oil pressure warning lamp switch -

SOHC model (engine removed)

14.2 Oil pressure warning lamp switch

(arrowed) viewed from underneath vehicle

- SOHC model

Tape the wiring to the door pillar, to prevent if falling back into the door pillar. Alternatively, tie a piece of

string to the wiring to retrieve it.

3 To remove the cigarette lighter assembly, simply pull it from the illumination ring assembly. If desired, the illumination ring assembly can be removed, by pulling it from the housing after depressing the retaining clips.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

16 Clock - removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, carefully

prise the clock from the facia panel. 3 Disconnect the wiring plugs and withdraw the clock (see illustration).

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

17 Heated front seats - general

Heating pads are fitted to the front seats of some models. Before attempting to remove a seat so equipped, disconnect the battery and the leads from the heating pad.

18 Instrument panel - removal

and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the steering wheel, (Chapter 10). 3 Remove the steering column shrouds, and

the instrument panel upper and lower trim panels, (Chapter 11). 4 Remove the single upper, and two lower, instrument panel securing screws (see

illustration). 5 Carefully withdraw the instrument panel,

and disconnect the speedometer cable and the two wiring plugs. Note that the speedometer cable is retained by a clip, which must be pressed towards the speedometer to release the cable (see illustration).

6 If desired, the instrument panel can be dismantled, with reference to Section 19.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the speedometer cable is not kinked or twisted between the instrument panel and the bulkhead as the panel is refitted.

19 Instrument panel

components - removal and

refitting

1 With the instrument panel removed, as described in Section 18, continue as follows.

Panel illumination and warning lamp bulbs

Removal

2 Twist the relevant bulbholder clockwise,

and withdraw it from the printed circuit board on the rear of the instrument panel (see

illustration). 3 The bulbs are integral with the bulbholders,

and must be renewed as a unit.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Voltage stabiliser

Removal

5 Remove the single securing screw from the

rear of the instrument panel, then pull the voltage stabiliser from the contacts on the printed circuit board (see illustration).

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Fuel and temperature gauges “low series” models

Removal

7 Pull the trip meter reset pin from the front of

the panel. 8 Release the two retaining clips at the top of the panel, and remove the panel shroud (see

illustration). 9 Unscrew the two securing nuts, and

withdraw the relevant gauge through the front of the instrument panel.

12•6 Body electrical systems

16.3 Disconnecting the wiring plugs from the clock

18.5 Disconnecting an instrument panel wiring plug. Note speedometer cable

retaining clip (arrowed)

19.8 Removing the instrument panel shroud

19.5 Instrument panel voltage stabiliser (arrowed)

19.2 Withdrawing an instrument panel illumination lamp bulb

18.4 Unscrewing a lower instrument panel securing screw

Refitting

10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Fuel and temperature gauge assembly - “high series” models

11 The procedure is as described in paragraphs 7 to 10 inclusive, except that the gauge assembly is secured by four nuts.

Tachometer

12 The procedure is as described in paragraphs 7 to 10 inclusive except that the tachometer is secured by three nuts (see illustration).

Speedometer

Removal

13 Proceed as described in paragraphs 7

and 8. 14 Extract the four securing screws from the rear of the panel (see illustration).

Refitting

15 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Printed circuit board

Removal

16 Remove all bulbs and instruments, and

the voltage stabiliser, as described previously in this Section. 17 Carefully peel the printed circuit board from the instrument panel.

Refitting

18 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but

ensure that the printed circuit board is seated correctly on the rear of the instrument panel.

20 Trip computer components -

removal and refitting

1 Disconnect the battery lead.

Display module

Removal

2 Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, carefully

prise the module from the facia panel. 3 Disconnect the wiring plug and withdraw the module.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Display module illumination bulb

Removal

5 Remove the display module, as described

previously in this Section. 6 Using a length of rubber sleeving of similar diameter, or an alternator tool, extract the bulb by inserting the tool through the hole in the side of the display module (see

illustration).

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Operating switch

Removal

8 Remove the rear section of the centre

console, as described in Chapter 11. 9 Release the wiring plug from the switch using a screwdriver. 10 Lift the switch, then pull it down and out from the centre console.

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Outside air temperature sensor

Removal

12 The sensor is located at the left-hand end of the front bumper (see illustration). 13 Prise the cover cap from the bumper, then

unclip the sensor, and disconnect the wiring plug.

Refitting

14 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

21 Check control system

components - removal and

refitting

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

Warning lamp bulbs

2 The warning lamp bulbs are located in the instrument panel, and removal and refitting are described in Section 19.

Control module

Removal

3 The control module is located behind the

passenger side of the facia, above the glovebox. 4 Remove the glovebox assembly, as described in Chapter 11. 5 Disconnect the control module wiring plug, then release the control module from its mounting and withdraw the unit.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Coolant level sensor

Removal

7 The coolant level sensor is integral with the

coolant expansion tank cap. 8 Disconnect the wiring from the top of the cap, then unscrew the cap and withdraw it from the expansion tank. 9 If faulty, the complete cap assembly must be renewed.

Refitting

10 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Washer fluid level sensor

Removal

11 The sensor is mounted in the side of the

fluid reservoir. 12 Disconnect the wiring from the sensor, then unscrew the sensor from the fluid reservoir. If the fluid level is above the level of the sensor, be prepared for fluid spillage.

Refitting

13 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Body electrical systems 12•7

20.6 Removing the trip computer display module illumination bulb

20.12 Trip computer outside air

temperature sensor location (arrowed)

19.14 Speedometer securing screws (arrowed)

19.12 Tachometer securing nuts (arrowed)

Brake fluid level sensor

14 The procedure is as described for the coolant level sensor in paragraphs 7 to 10 inclusive.

Engine oil level sensor

Removal

15 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of

the vehicle, and support securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”) positioned under the body side members. 16 On DOHC models, remove the engine undershield, as described in Chapter 11.

17 Disconnect the sensor wiring plug. 18 Unscrew the three or four sensor securing

screws, as applicable, and withdraw the sensor, manipulating the float through the hole in the sump (see illustration). Recover the sealing ring. Be prepared for some oil spillage. 19 Examine the condition of the sealing ring, and renew if necessary.

Refitting

20 Refitting is a reversal of removal. On

completion, check, and if necessary top-up, the engine oil level.

Bulb failure sensor

Removal

21 The bulb failure sensor is mounted behind

the fuse/relay panel in the facia. 22 Release the retaining clips from the lower end of the fuse/relay panel, and tilt it forwards.

23 Reach up behind the fuse/relay panel, and pull the sensor from its socket.

Refitting

24 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

22 Horn(s) - removal and refitting

1 On models with a single horn, the horn is located in front of the radiator. On models with twin horns, the horns are located beneath the washer fluid reservoir, at the left-hand end of the front bumper.

Single horn

Removal

2 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 3 Remove the radiator grille panel, with

reference to Chapter 11. 4 Disconnect the wiring from the rear of the horn. 5 Reach up behind the mounting bracket, and unscrew the single nut securing the horn to the bracket (see illustration). Withdraw the horn.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Twin horns

Removal

7 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 8 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front

of the vehicle, and support securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”) positioned under the body side members. 9 Remove the securing screws, and withdraw the plastic cover (where fitted) from the bumper/front wing to expose the horns. 10 Remove the bolt securing the horn mounting bracket to the bracket below the washer fluid reservoir (see illustration). 11 Withdraw the horns and disconnect the wiring. 12 If desired, the horns can be unbolted from the bracket.

Refitting

13 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

23 Interior lamps - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, prise the

lamp from its location and disconnect the wiring (see illustration).

Refitting

3 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

24 Interior lamp bulbs - renewal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

Courtesy lamp

Note: Some later models are fitted with courtesy lamps for the rear seat passengers, as well as front.

Removal

2 Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, prise the

lamp from its location and disconnect the wiring. 3 On models fitted with a courtesy lamp with integral map reading lamps, the lens must be levered from the housing for access to the bulbs.

12•8 Body electrical systems

21.18 Engine oil level sensor - DOHC model

22.10 Horn mounting bracket securing bolt (arrowed) - twin horned model

23.2 Withdrawing the courtesy lamp

22.5 Horn viewed from behind with radiator removed - single horned model

4 Remove the courtesy lamp bulbs by

carefully prising it from its location using a thin-bladed screwdriver. Where applicable, the map reading lamp bulbs are a push fit in the bulbholders.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Glovebox lamp

Removal

6 Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, prise the

lamp from its location and disconnect the wiring.

7 Carefully prise the bulb from the lamp.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Luggage compartment, underbonnet and kerb lamps

Removal

9 Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, prise the

lamp from its location; disconnect the wiring.

10 Carefully prise the bulb from the lamp (see illustration).

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal

Cigarette lighter illumination lamp

Removal

12 Slide the ashtray/cigarette lighter

assembly from the facia, then disconnect the wiring and pull the bulbholder from the rear of the cigarette lighter housing.

13 The bulb is a push fit in the bulbholder.

Refitting

14 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Clock illumination lamp

15 Remove the clock, (Section 16). 16 Twist the bulbholder and pull it from the rear of the clock (see illustration). 17 The bulb is a push fit in the bulbholder.

Trip computer display module illumination lamp

18 Refer to Section 20.

Heater control panel illumination lamp

Removal

19 Remove the heater control panel, as

described in Chapter 11.

20 Pull the bulbholder from the rear of the control panel (see illustration).

21 The bulb is a push fit in the bulbholder.

Refitting

22 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Facia panel switch illumination lamp

23 If a bulb fails in one of the facia panel switches, the complete switch assembly must be renewed, as described in Section 7, as no individual spare parts are available.

Vanity mirror illumination lamp

Removal

24 Lower the sunvisor and, using a

thin-bladed screwdriver, prise out the mirror and diffuser assembly. Pull the bulb(s) from the spring contacts.

Refitting

25 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

25 Headlamp unit - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Remove the radiator grille panel, as described in Chapter 11. 2 Remove the front indicator lamp unit, as described in Section 29. 3 Remove the cover from the rear of the headlamp unit, and disconnect the wiring plugs from the bulbs. 4 If applicable, disconnect the wiring plug from the headlamp aim adjustment motor. 5 Remove the three securing screws, and withdraw the headlamp unit (see illustrations). Feed the wiring through the headlamp casing as it is removed. 6 If required, the headlamp lens can be removed by releasing the spring clips around its edge.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. 8 On completion, have the headlamp

alignment checked, with reference to Section 27.

Body electrical systems 12•9

24.20 Heater control panel illumination lamp bulbholder withdrawn

25.5C Withdrawing a headlamp unit25.5B Unscrewing an upper headlamp

securing screw

25.5A Unscrewing the lower headlamp securing screw

24.16 Removing the clock illumination lamp bulbholder

24.10 Removing the underbonnet lamp bulb

27 Headlamps - alignment

1 Correct alignment of the headlamp beams is most important, not only to ensure good vision for the driver, but also to protect other drivers from being dazzled. 2 Accurate alignment should be carried out using optical beam setting equipment. 3 In an emergency, adjustments may be made by turning the adjustment screws shown (see illustrations). If an adjustment is made, the alignment should be checked using beam setting equipment at the earliest opportunity. 4 All 1992-on models are fitted with the headlamp aim adjustment system, operated through the facia-mounted switch (see illustration).

a) Position ‘0’, is for correct alignment if just

the driving seat is occupied. b) Position ‘1’, if all seats are occupied. c) Position ‘2’, if all seats occupied and

luggage. d) Position ‘3’, for just driver and luggage.

28 Headlamp dim-dip system -

general, removal and refitting

General

1 The system (where fitted) is governed by the dim-dip control unit mounted either behind and above the glovebox (early models), or behind the main fuse panel (later models). 2 The control unit uses the oil pressure warning lamp circuit to ensure that, when the

engine is running and the sidelamps are switched on, reduced current is fed to the headlamp dipped-beam circuits. This lights the headlamps with approximately one-sixth of their normal power so that the vehicle cannot be driven using sidelamps alone. 3 To locate the dim-dip control unit, open the main fuse panel covering flap and unclip it from its bottom and top mountings (Section 3). Then use a torch to see whether the unit is fastened to the plastic bracket behind the facia and fuse panel. The unit is usually rectangular, of black plastic, and can be identified by the colours of the five wires leading to it (see applicable wiring diagram).

Removal

4 If the unit can be seen, remove the driver’s side lower facia and footwell trim panels (Chapter 11), then unscrew the four retaining screws and lower the plastic bracket until the control unit can be detached. 5 If the unit cannot be seen, remove the glovebox assembly (Chapter 11). The unit will be fastened to the underside of the facia top surface.

Refitting

6 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure.

26 Headlamp aim adjustment

motor - removal and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the headlamp, (Section 25). 2 Twist the motor clockwise to release it from

the headlamp, then carefully disconnect the motor from the balljoint (see illustrations).

Refitting

3 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the motor is correctly engaged with the balljoint.

12•10 Body electrical systems

26.2A Headlamp aim adjustment motor (headlamp removed)

27.4 The headlamp aim adjustment switch

- 1992-on models

27.3B Headlamp alignment adjustment screws - models with electric aim adjustment

A Vertical adjustment screw B Horizontal adjustment screw

27.3A Headlamp alignment adjustment screws - models without electric aim adjustment

A Vertical adjustment screw B Horizontal adjustment screw

26.2B Headlamp aim adjuster balljoint (arrowed)

29 Front indicator lamp unit -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the single indicator lamp unit

securing screw, which is accessible through the hole in the upper body panel (see

illustration). 3 Pull the lamp unit forwards to release it

from the body, then disconnect the wiring plug (see illustration).

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

30 Side repeater lamp - removal

and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the wheel arch liner, as described

in Chapter 11. 3 Working in the engine compartment, disconnect the wiring plug, and detach the earth lead from the body panel. 4 Working under the wheel arch, depress the retaining tabs and manipulate the lamp through the outside of the wing, pulling the wiring and the grommet from the inner wing panel. 5 The lens can be removed from the lamp by twisting it to release the retaining clips. 6 Check the condition of the rubber sealing ring, and renew if necessary.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

31 Front foglamp - removal,

refitting and adjustment

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Removing (if necessary) the radiator grille

panel, as described in Chapter 11, disconnect the appropriate foglamp wiring plug. 3 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”) positioned under the body side members. 4 If removing the driver’s side foglamp, remove the securing screws and withdraw the plastic cover from the bumper/front wing to expose the lamp mountings. 5 Unscrew the three securing bolts and withdraw the lamp and wiring, the two bottom bolts are obvious, but the third is well hidden at the top of the lamp.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on completion check the foglamp adjustment.

Adjustment

7 The vertical aim of the foglamps can be adjusted by turning the adjuster screw at the rear of the lamp in the required direction. It will be necessary to remove the plastic cover (driver’s side only) from the bumper/front wing to expose the adjuster screw (see

illustration).

32 Rear lamp unit - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Working in the luggage compartment,

remove the cover from the rear of the lamp. 3 Release the top and bottom retaining clips, and pull the bulbholder from the lamp. Disconnect the wiring plug. 4 Remove the securing screws, and withdraw the lamp unit from outside the vehicle. 5 Note that the lens cannot be renewed separately, and if damaged, the complete lamp unit must be renewed.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

33 Number plate lamp - removal

and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, carefully

prise the lamp surround from the bumper. 3 Pull the lamp from the bumper, and disconnect the wiring.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

34 Exterior lamp bulbs - renewal

Note: The glass envelopes of the headlamp and foglamp bulbs must not be touched with the fingers. If the glass is accidentally touched, it should be washed with methylated spirits and dried with a soft cloth. Failure to observe this procedure may result in premature bulb failure

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

Headlamps

Removal

2 Working in the engine compartment,

release the retaining clip, and remove the cover from the rear of the headlamp (see illustration).

Body electrical systems 12•11

31.7 Foglamp aim adjustment screw (arrowed)

34.2 Removing the cover from the rear of the headlamp

29.3 Disconnecting the front indicator lamp unit wiring plug

29.2 Unscrewing the front indicator lamp unit securing screw

3 Pull the wiring plug from the base of the bulb, then release the spring clip, grasp the bulb by its contacts and carefully withdraw it (see

illustrations). Do not touch the bulb glass.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Sidelamps

Removal

5 Working in the engine compartment,

release the retaining clip, and remove the cover from the rear of the headlamp. 6 Pull the wiring plug from the bulbholder, then pull the bulbholder from the headlamp

(see illustration). 7 The bulb is a push fit in the bulbholder (see illustration).

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Front indicator lamp

Removal

9 Working in the engine compartment,

disconnect the wiring plug from the bulbholder. 10 Twist the bulbholder anti-clockwise, and pull it from the lamp unit (see illustration).

11 The bulb is a bayonet fit in the bulbholder (see illustration).

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Front indicator side repeater lamp

Removal

13 Twist the lamp lens anti-clockwise, and

pull it from the lamp.

14 The bulb is a push fit in the lamp (see illustration).

Refitting

15 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but

ensure that the rubber sealing ring is correctly seated between the lens and the body panel.

Front foglamp

Removal

16 To improve access, apply the handbrake,

jack up the front of the vehicle, and support securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”) positioned under the body side members. 17 Remove the securing screws, and withdraw the plastic cover (driver’s side only) from the bumper/front wing to expose the foglamp. 18 Remove the security screw, and withdraw the cover from the base of the lamp (see

illustration). 19 Release the spring clip, using a

screwdriver if necessary, then grasp the bulb by its contacts and carefully withdraw it. Do not touch the bulb glass (see illustration). 20 Pull the wiring plug from the base of the bulb.

Refitting

21 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Rear lamp unit

Removal

22 Working in the luggage compartment,

remove the cover from the rear of the lamp. 23 Release the top and bottom retaining clips, and pull the bulbholder from the lamp,

12•12 Body electrical systems

34.3A Release the spring clip . . . 34.6 Pull the sidelamp bulbholder from the headlamp . . .

34.18 Removing a front foglamp cover securing screw

34.10 Withdraw the front indicator lamp bulbholder (lamp removed) . . .

34.07 . . . then pull the bulb from the bulbholder

34.14 Removing a front indicator side repeater lamp bulb

34.11 . . . then remove the bulb

34.3B . . . and withdraw the headlamp bulb

taking care not to strain the wiring (see illustration). 24 The bulbs are a bayonet fit in the bulbholder (see illustration). Note that the brake/tail lamp

bulb has offset bayonet pins so that it can only be fitted in one position; ensure that the correct type of replacement is obtained.

Refitting

25 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Rear number plate lamp

Removal

26 Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, carefully

prise the lamp surround from the bumper. 27 Pull the lamp from the bumper, taking care not to strain the wiring, and unclip the lens (see illustration).

28 The bulb is a bayonet fit in the lamp (see illustration).

Refitting

29 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

35 Wiper blades - renewal

Removal

1 The wiper blades should be renewed when they no longer clean the glass effectively. 2 Lift the wiper arm away from the glass. On some models it may be more convenient to do this with the bonnet open. 3 With the blade at 90° to the arm, depress the spring clip and slide the blade from the hook (see illustration). 4 If necessary, extract the two metal inserts and unhook the wiper rubber.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but where applicable, make sure that the cut-outs in the metal inserts securing the rubber to the blade face each other.

36 Wiper arms - removal and

refitting

Windscreen and rear window wipers

Removal

1 The wiper motor should be in its parked

position before removing the wiper arm. Mark the position of the blade on the glass with adhesive tape as a guide to refitting. 2 Lift the hinged covers, and remove the nuts and washers securing the arms to the spindles. 3 Prise the arms from the spindles, using a screwdriver if necessary. Take care not to damage the paintwork.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Note that

the passenger side wiper arm is longer than that fitted to the driver’s side. Ensure that the arms are fitted to their correct locations, as incorrect installation can cause the blades to foul one another when being used (see illustration).

Headlamp wipers

5 The procedure is as described in paragraphs 1 to 4, but the washer hose must be disconnected from the stub on the body panel.

37 Washer nozzles - removal

and refitting

Models up to 1990

Removal

1 To remove a nozzle, carefully prise it from

its location using a thin-bladed screwdriver. Take care not to damage the paintwork.

Body electrical systems 12•13

34.24 . . . then remove the relevant bulb

36.4 Windscreen wiper arms 1992-on models

35.3 Removing a wiper blade

34.28 . . . then remove the bulb34.27 Unclip the lens from the rear

number plate lamp . . .

34.23 Release the rear lamp unit bulbholder retaining clips . . .

34.19 Withdrawing a foglamp bulb

2 Disconnect the washer hose and withdraw the nozzle.

Refitting

3 To refit, reconnect the washer hose to the

nozzle, and push the nozzle into its locating hole. 4 The nozzles can be adjusted by inserting a pin into the jet, and swivelling it to the required position.

1991-on models

5 The nozzles on all later models are fitted with twin jets. 6 On some later models, the nozzles are heated; the circuit is fed through fuse 29 and is live whenever the ignition is switched on. Current is regulated by a Positive Temperature Coefficient (PTC) resistor that takes outside temperature into account.

38 Windscreen wiper motor and

linkage - removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the wiper arms, as described in

Section 36. 3 Remove the windscreen cowl panel, as described in Chapter 11.

4 Disconnect the wiring plug from the motor (see illustration).

5 Unscrew the three bolts securing the

motor/linkage assembly to the body, then withdraw the assembly (see illustrations). 6 If desired, the motor can be removed from the linkage by unscrewing the three securing bolts. Do not attempt to dismantle the linkage.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

39 Tailgate wiper motor -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the wiper arm, as described in

Section 36. 3 Extract the securing screws, and remove the rear tailgate trim panel.

4 Disconnect the motor wiring plug. 5 Unscrew the two motor securing bolts,

noting the earth leads under the bolt heads

(see illustration). 6 Manipulate the motor assembly from the

tailgate.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring that the cut-out in the drive spindle rubber seal engages with the notch in the drive spindle (see illustration).

40 Headlamp wiper motor -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the wiper arm, as described in

Section 36. 3 Remove the headlamp, as described in Section 25.

4 Disconnect the motor wiring plug. 5 Unscrew the two bolts securing the motor

mounting bracket to the body panel, then withdraw the motor (see illustrations).

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

12•14 Body electrical systems

38.4 Disconnecting the windscreen wiper motor wiring plug

38.5B . . . then withdraw the assembly

40.5B . . . and withdraw the motor40.5A Unscrew the headlamp wiper motor

securing bolts . . .

39.7 Cut-out in tailgate wiper motor drive spindle rubber seal must engage with

notch in drive spindle

39.5 Tailgate wiper motor assembly. Note

earth leads under heads of securing bolts

38.5A Unscrew the windscreen wiper

motor/linkage assembly securing bolts . .

41 Washer fluid reservoir -

removal and refitting

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

Models without headlamp wash

Removal

2 Disconnect the wiring from the washer

pump. 3 Disconnect the washer fluid hose from the pump. Be prepared for fluid spillage. 4 Remove the screw(s) securing the reservoir to the body, and withdraw the reservoir.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Models with headlamp wash

Removal

6 On models with headlamp wash, the

reservoir is in two sections, the upper section, which can be removed from the engine compartment, and the lower section, which must be removed from under the wheel arch. 7 Disconnect the wiring from the headlamp wash non-return valve in the top of the reservoir. 8 Disconnect the washer fluid hoses from the non-return valve. Be prepared for fluid spillage. 9 Remove the screw securing the upper section of the reservoir to the wing panel. 10 Loosen the plastic collar securing the upper section of the reservoir to the lower section, then withdraw the upper section of the reservoir from the engine compartment. 11 To remove the lower section of the reservoir, continue as follows. 12 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle, and support on axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”) positioned under the body side members. 13 Remove the securing screws, and withdraw the plastic cover from the

bumper/front wing to expose the lower section of the reservoir.

14 Remove the horns, (Section 22). 15 Remove the wheel arch liner, (Chapter 11). 16 Disconnect the wiring and the fluid hoses

from the washer pump. Be prepared for fluid spillage. 17 Unscrew the bolts securing the horn/reservoir support bracket and the reservoir to the body, then withdraw the bracket and the reservoir (see illustration).

Refitting

18 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

42 Washer pump - removal and

refitting

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

Models without headlamp wash

Removal

2 Disconnect the wiring and the fluid hose

from the pump. Be prepared for fluid spillage. 3 Pull the pump from the reservoir, being prepared for fluid spillage if the reservoir still contains fluid. 4 Examine the condition of the sealing grommet, and renew if necessary, and clean the gauze filter at the end of the pump pick-up tube.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Models with headlamp wash

6 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle, and support on axle stands positioned under the body side members. 7 Remove the securing screws, and withdraw the plastic cover from the bumper/front wing to expose the lower section of the fluid reservoir.

8 Remove the wheel arch liner, (Chapter 11). 9 Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 5

inclusive.

43 Headlamp washer fluid

non-return valve - removal

and refitting

Removal

1 The valve is located on a bracket attached to the upper section of the washer fluid reservoir (see illustration).

2 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 3 Disconnect the wiring and the fluid hoses

from the valve. Be prepared for fluid spillage. 4 Remove the screw securing the valve bracket to the reservoir, and withdraw the valve.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

44 Electric window components

- removal and refitting

Note: Whenever any of the electric window components are removed, after refitting the components, the electric window controls must be programmed, as described in Section 45.

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

Rear door-mounted switches

Removal

2 Prise the plastic surround from the door

interior handle. 3 Carefully prise the switch from its location, and disconnect the wiring plug.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make

sure that the wiring is routed so that it does not foul the electric window or lock operating components.

Body electrical systems 12•15

43.1 Headlamp washer fluid non-return valve (arrowed)41.17 Horn/washer fluid reservoir support bracket securing bolt

(arrowed) - model with headlamp wash

Centre console-mounted switches

Removal

5 The switches must be removed as a

complete assembly, and cannot be dismantled. If one of the switches is faulty, the complete assembly must be renewed. 6 Remove the rear section of the centre console, as described in Chapter 11. 7 Release the securing clips, and withdraw the switch assembly through the top of the centre console.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Operating motors

9 Remove the door window regulator, as described in Chapter 11. 10 To remove the motor assembly from the front door window regulator, unscrew the three motor securing nuts, and the single screw securing the pulse pick-up unit to the regulator assembly. Withdraw the motor, complete with the pulse pick-up unit. Note that if the motor or pick-up unit is/are faulty, the two components must be renewed as an assembly, as no spare parts are available (see

illustration). 11 The motor assembly fitted to the rear door

window regulator is an integral part of the regulator, and no attempt should be made at dismantling. If faulty, the complete motor/regulator assembly must be renewed, as no spares are available.

45 Electric window controls -

programming

1 Whenever the battery is disconnected, or any of the electric window components are removed, on completion of work, the electric window controls must be programmed as follows.

2 Close all doors, and switch on the ignition. 3 Close one of the windows by pressing the

relevant operating switch. Press and hold the switch for a further five seconds after the relevant window has fully closed.

4 Repeat the procedure for the remaining window(s).

46 Central door locking

components - removal and

refitting

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

Electronic control module

Removal

2 The module is mounted in the driver’s

footwell, behind the side trim panel. 3 Remove the driver’s footwell side trim panel, as described in Chapter 11. 4 Unscrew the two securing nuts, and lift the module from the body panel (see

illustration). 5 Depress the retaining clip to release the

wiring plug, then withdraw the module.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Operating switch

Removal

7 The operating switch takes the form of a

microswitch, mounted inside the door at the rear of the exterior handle assembly.

8 Remove the door inner trim panel, as described in Chapter 11. 9 Peel back the plastic insulating sheet sufficiently to gain access to the exterior handle. 10 Unclip the microswitch from the rear edge of the exterior handle assembly, and disconnect the switch wiring plug from the door wiring harness, then withdraw the switch

(see illustration).

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Door lock operating motor

Removal

12 Remove the door lock, as described in

Chapter 11. 13 Disconnect the lock operating rod from the motor. 14 Remove the two securing screws, and withdraw the motor from the lock assembly.

Refitting

15 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Tailgate/boot lid lock operating motor

Removal

16 On Hatchback models, extract the

securing screws and remove the rear tailgate trim panel. 17 Remove the two securing screws, and manipulate the motor to disconnect the lock operating rod. 18 Withdraw the motor and disconnect the wiring plug (see illustration).

Refitting

19 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Fuel filler flap lock operating motor

Removal

20 Remove the right-hand rear quarter trim

panels, as described in Chapter 11. 21 Disconnect the wiring plug from the rear of the motor (see illustration).

12•16 Body electrical systems

44.10 Front door electric window motor

securing nuts and pulse pick-up securing

screw (arrowed)

46.10 Central door locking operating

microswitch (arrowed) in driver’s door

46.18 Disconnecting the wiring plug from the tailgate lock operating motor -

Hatchback model

46.4 Unscrewing a central door locking control module securing nut

+ 241 hidden pages

Opel Vectra 1988 1995 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual