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INSTRUCTION BOOK
6001
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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
Your Elna model 6001 sewing machine is designed and constructed for HOUSEHOLD use only. Read
all instructions before using this machine.
DANGER – To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. Your sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug the machine from
the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
2. Always unplug before replacing light bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 12 Volts, 5 watts.
3. Do not reach for the machine if it has fallen into water. Unplug immediately.
4. Do not place or store machine where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink. Do not place it in or drop it
into water or other liquid.
WARNING – To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electrical shock or injury:
1. Do not allow machine to be used as a toy. Supervision is necessary when this machine is used by or
near children.
2. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Only use attachments
recommended by the manufacturer as described in this manual.
3. Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, is not working properly, has been dropped
or damaged or dropped into water. Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. This machine is equipped with a special connection cord which, if damaged, must be replaced by an
identical cord. This can be obtained from your dealer.
5. Never operate the sewing machine with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust and fibers.
6. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
7. Do not use outdoors.
8. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
9. To disconnect, turn machine off and remove plug from outlet.
10. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
11. Keep fingers away from all moving parts, especially the needle.
12. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
13. Do not use bent needles.
14. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. This may deflect the needle causing it to break.
15. Switch the sewing machine off when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as threading
needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, changing presser foot, etc.
16. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating or making any other servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
IMPORTANT
Be sure to keep machine away from static electricity, heat sources, humidity and direct sunlight.
USA only
Your machine comes equipped with a polarized plug (one prong wider than the other). A polarized plug reduces the risk of electrical shock. This plug is intended to fit into a polarized outlet. If the plug does not fit
fully into the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper
outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
Use only foot control 21249 (UL, CSA).
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION I – Machine Parts and Functions
Part Names .............................................................. 3
Accessory Storage ......... ..........................................4
Presser Foot Definitions.......... .................................5
Extension Table and Free Arm.......... ........................6
Using the Fine Adjustment Dial.......... .......................6
How to Drop the Feed Dog....................................... 7
Foot Pressure Dial.................................................... 7
Attaching and Removing Presser Feet .................... 7
Attaching and Removing Shank ............................... 7
Additional Presser Foot Clearance ........................... 8
Seam Allowance Lines ............................................. 8
Controlling Sewing Speed......................................... 8
Adjusting Needle Thread Tension ............................. 9
SECTION II – Getting Ready to Sew
Selecting the Correct Needle and Thread ............10
Changing Needles ................................................. 10
Needle Definitions...................................................11
Connecting Machine to Power Supply .................. 12
Main Function of Keys ...................................... 13-15
Winding a Bobbin ..............................................16-17
Additional Spool Pin............................................... 17
Inserting the Bobbin ............................................... 18
Threading the Machine .......................................... 19
Built-in Needle Threader........................................ 20
Drawing Up the Bobbin Thread ............................. 21
SECTION III – Sewing
Example of How to Read the Machine Set-up
Information ............................................................ 22
Straight Stitch......................................................... 22
Starting to Sew ....................................................... 22
Finishing Off a Seam ............................................. 23
Changing Sewing Direction ................................... 23
Sewing on Heavy Fabrics...................................... 23
Gathering................................................................ 24
Zipper Insertion ................................................. 25-26
Pintucks .................................................................. 27
Quilt Guide ............................................................. 27
Rolled Hem (optional foot) ..................................... 28
Twin Needle Hem................................................... 29
Zigzag Stitch .......................................................... 30
Overcasting ............................................................ 30
Whip and Roll Hem ................................................ 31
Satin Stitch Applique .............................................. 31
How to Sew on a Button ........................................ 32
3-Step Zigzag ......................................................... 33
Mending a Tear....................................................... 33
Blind Hem Stitches ................................................ 34
Shell Tuck............................................................... 35
Box Stitch ............................................................... 35
Triple Seam ............................................................ 36
Saddle Stitch .......................................................... 36
Stretch Seam ......................................................... 36
Decorative Stretch Stitches ................................... 37
Super Stretch Stitch............................................... 37
Super Overlock Stitch ............................................ 38
Double Overlock Stitch .......................................... 38
Buttonhole Variations........................................ 39-42
Corded Buttonhole ................................................. 43
Buttonhole Applique ............................................... 44
Fringing................................................................... 45
Hemstitches............................................................ 45
Drawn Work............................................................ 46
Picot Stitch ............................................................. 46
Patchwork............................................................... 47
Twin Needle Decorative Stitches .......................... 47
Single Pattern – Auto-Lock Key ............................ 47
Scallop Edges ........................................................ 48
Complete Pattern – Auto-Lock Key....................... 48
Combining Patterns ............................................... 48
Smocking................................................................ 49
SECTION IV – Exclusive Optional Elna
Accessories
Elastic Gatherer Plate............................................ 50
Fagoting (Bridging) Plate....................................... 50
SECTION V – Taking Care of Your Machine
Cleaning the Bobbin Area ...................................... 51
Cleaning the Hook Area and Feed Dog ........... 51-52
Replacing the Bobbin Case................................... 52
Changing the Light Bulb ........................................ 52
TROUBLESHOOTING ..........................53
INDEX ...................................................54
NOTE: Information found in this instruction
manual is current at the time of printing. Elna
reserves the right to change and update specifications and information as needed.
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SECTION I
Machine Parts and Functions
Part Names
1. Foot compartment
2. Stitch charts
3. Top cover
4. Thread tension dial
5. Foot pressure dial
6. Face plate
7. Thread cutter
8. Needle threader
9. Needle plate
10. Extension table (accessory storage box)
11. Bobbin cover plate
12. Bobbin cover plate release button
13. Fine adjustment dial
14. Reverse key
15. Auto-lock key
16. Up-down needle key
17. Speed control lever
18. Front cover (lift cover to access selection keys)
19. Needle clamp screw
20. Needle
21. Presser foot
22. Shank
23. Thumbscrew
24. Thread take-up lever
25. Carrying handle
26. Flywheel (always turn towards you)
27. Power switch
28. Machine sockets
29. Feed dog lever
30. Free arm
31. Buttonhole lever
32. Presser foot lever
3
14
13
11
10
26
23
9
8
25
30
24
7
32
31
27
20
21
6
29
28
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Accessory Storage
Foot Compartment
1. Set of needles
2. Quilt guide
3. G: Blind hem foot
4. D: Hemmer foot (optional)
5. C: Overlock foot (optional)
6. E: Zipper foot
7. A: Standard metal foot
8. F: Satin stitch foot
Extension Table (Accessory Storage Box)
Many sewing accessories are stored in the extension
table. Pull lid towards you to open the storage box.
9. Screwdriver
10. R: Automatic buttonhole foot
11. Lint brush
12. Bobbins (5 total)
13. Seam ripper
14. Large spool holder
15. Small spool holder
16. Additional spool pin
17. Spool pin felt
18. Spool stand
19. Foot control
20. Power supply cord
21. Carrying case
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Presser Foot Definitions
A: STANDARD METAL FOOT A
This foot comes attached to your machine. It is
mainly used for straight stitches and zigzag stitches
longer than 1.0. The button locks the foot in a horizontal position helping to sew over multiple layered
seams.
C: OVERLOCK FOOT (optional)
Prevent fabric edges from raveling by finishing the
edge with a zigzag stitch. The brush on the foot
helps the stitch lie flatter and reduces puckering. Use
with medium weight fabrics.
D: HEMMER FOOT (optional)
Insert the fabric into the spiral on this foot. The spiral
rolls the fabric, creating a rolled hem. An easy, professional way to sew hems.
E: ZIPPER FOOT
Use when sewing zippers into place to avoid the foot
riding on top of the zipper coil. Attach either to the
left or right of the needle to sew each side of the zipper.
F: SATIN STITCH FOOT
The cutout on the underside of the foot is designed
to accommodate dense stitch formation. Ideal when
sewing satin and decorative stitches.
G: BLIND HEM FOOT, ADJUSTABLE
The adjustable guide on the foot helps ensure that
the needle catches only one or two fibers of the
hem, resulting in an invisible hemline. The guide can
also be adjusted to create pintucks.
R: AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT
Place button in foot to determine the buttonhole size.
The machine will automatically sew the corresponding buttonhole.
QUILT GUIDE
The quilt guide is helpful when sewing parallel,
evenly spaced rows of stitching.
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Extension Table (Accessory Storage Box)
and Free Arm
Extension Table
The extension table provides more sewing space to
make sewing easier. The extension can be easily
removed for free arm sewing.
Free arm sewing is good for circle areas like sleeves,
waistbands and pant legs. If socks, knee or elbow
areas need mending, the free arm will be best to
use.
Pull the end of the extension table away from the
machine, as shown in the drawing.
Push the table back into place to reattach the extension table.
Using the Fine Adjustment Dial
Choice of fabrics and threads may affect the stitch
formation when sewing decorative stitches or buttonholes. The fine adjustment dial can be used to either
lengthen or shorten the stitch.
j
Fine adjustment dial
k
Standard mark
l
Setting mark
To fine tune, use a screwdriver to move the setting
mark.
•
If stitches are too short m, correct by turning the
dial in the direction of “+”.
•
If stitches are too short n, correct by turning the
dial in the direction of “-.”
•
If left side of buttonhole is less dense o than
right side, correct by turning dial in direction of
“+”.
•
If right side of buttonhole is less dense p than
left side, correct by turning dial in direction of “-.”
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How To Drop the Feed Dog
The feed dog drops out of position for special sewing
techniques: free motion embroidery, button sewing,
etc.
The feed dog must always be up for regular sewing.
Locate the feed dog lever on the back of the free
arm. Slide the lever either to the right (down) j or to
the left (up) k. To bring up the feed dog, hand turn
the flywheel after sliding lever to the left.
Foot Pressure Dial
Set the pressure dial j at “3” for regular sewing.
Reduce the pressure to “2” for applique, cutwork,
drawn work, basting and embroidery.
Velours and knits with a lot of stretch may require a
“1” setting.
Attaching and Removing Presser Feet
Press the key until the needle is in the raised position. Raise the presser foot and press the red button
j
on back of the shank. The presser foot will drop
off. Place the selected presser foot so the pin l on
the foot lies just under the groove k of the shank.
Lower the presser bar to attach the foot.
Attaching and Removing Shank
Turn the thumbscrew j counterclockwise with the
screwdriver to remove the shank.
To attach, match the hole in the shank k with the
hole in the presser bar l. Put thumbscrew in hole
and turn clockwise to tighten.
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Additional Presser Foot Clearance
You can raise the presser foot about 6.5 mm (1/4”)
higher than the normal up position for easy removal
of the presser foot or to place heavy fabrics under
the presser foot. Pull the presser foot lever • up beyond the normal up position.
Seam Allowance Lines
The lines on the needle plate and bobbin cover plate
help you measure seam width.
The number indicates the distance between the center needle position 3.5 and the seam allowance line.
Millimeters Inches
Lines on needle
plate
15 20
(1/2”)
4/8”
5/8” (3/4”)
6/8”
•
Center needle position
‚
Edge of fabric
ƒ
Needle plate guidelines
„
90° pivot angle guideline for 5/8”
Controlling Sewing Speed
Sewing speed can be varied with the foot control •.
The harder you press on the foot control, the faster
the machine runs.
The maximum sewing speed can be varied by sliding
the speed control lever ‚. For a faster speed ƒ,
slide it to the right; for a slower speed „, slide it to
the left.
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Adjusting the Needle Thread Tension
Choosing the Correct Tension - Straight Stitch
The ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of fabric, as shown left (magnified to show detail). Needle thread tension can range
from 3 – 5 and is normally set on 4 j.
If you look at the needle thread k (top thread) and
bobbin thread l (bottom thread), you will notice that
there are no gaps. Each stitch is smooth and even.
Occasionally the needle thread tension needs to be
adjusted. Examples:
−
stiff or heavy fabric
−
sewing more than two layers of fabric
−
type of stitch
−
thread
When adjusting needle thread tension, the higher
numbers tighten, the lower numbers loosen.
• Tension is too tight
The bobbin thread shows through on the topside of
the fabric and it will feel bumpy.
Turn the dial to a lower number to loosen the needle
thread tension.
• Tension is too loose
The needle thread shows through on the underside
of the fabric and it will feel bumpy.
Turn the dial to a higher number to tighten the
needle thread tension.
• Adjusting Tension for Zigzag and Satin
Stitches
The upper thread tension should be slightly looser
when sewing a zigzag or a satin stitch. The upper
thread should appear slightly on the underside of the
fabric.
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SECTION II
Getting Ready to Sew
Selecting the Correct Needle and Thread
There are many kinds of fabrics, threads and
needles. It is important to use the correct ones together.
Always purchase good quality thread. It should be
strong, smooth and even in thickness. Use the same
thread for needle and bobbin. Always test thread and
needle size on a scrap piece of fabric.
In general, fine threads (the larger the number, the
finer the thread) and needles (the smaller the number, the finer the needle) are used for sewing lightweight fabrics and heavier threads and larger
needles are used for sewing heavyweight fabrics.
There are many specialty needles available from
your sewing machine dealer.
Check your needles frequently for rough or blunt
tips. Snags and runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like
fabrics are permanent and are often caused by damaged needles.
Changing Needles
1. Press the needle key to raise the needle.
Lower the presser foot. Turn off the power
switch. Turn the needle clamp screw • counterclockwise to loosen.
2. Remove the needle from the clamp. Insert the
new needle into needle clamp ‚ with the flat
side to the back, pushing it up as far as it will go.
Tighten the clamp screw firmly.
3. To determine if the needle is defective, place the
flat side of the needle on something flat
(a needle plate, piece of glass, etc.). The gap
between the needle and the flat surface should
be consistent.
Never use a bent or blunt needle, as it may
cause skipped stitches or thread breakage. Defective needles can ruin the fabric. Always purchase good quality needles. Change needles
often.
Weight Fabric Needle Type Needle
Size
Very
Light
Chiffon, Fine Lace,
Organdy
Universal
Ball Point
9 (65)
9 (65)
Batiste, Lawn, Crepe
de Chine, Challis
Handkerchief Linen,
Crepe, Taffeta, Satin
Stretch
Universal
11 (75)
11 (75)
12 (80)
Single Knits, Jersey,
Swimwear, Tricot
Stretch
Ball Point
11 (75)
11 (75)
Light
Leather, Suede Leather 11 (75)
Flannel, Velour, Velvet,
Velveteen, Corduroy,
Linen, Gabardine,
Wool, Terry, Burlap
Universal 14 (90)
Double Knits, Stretch
Velour, Stretch Terry,
Sweater Knits
Ball Point 14 (90)
Medium
Leather, Vinyl, Suede Leather 14 (90)
Denim, Sailcloth,
Ticking
Denim 16 (100)
Coating, Polar Fleece,
Drapery and
Upholstery Fabrics
Universal 16 (100)
Heavy
Leather, Suede Leather 16 (100)
Canvas, Duck,
Upholstery Fabrics
Universal 18 (110)Very
Heavy
Topstitching for
Special Finish
Topstitching 11 (75)
14 (90)
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Needle Definitions
The illustration identifies the main parts of a sewing
machine needle.
1. Body
2. Shaft
3. Long groove (round side of needle)
4. Short groove (flat side of needle)
5. Eye
6. Point
Universal – an all-purpose needle that handles most
woven and knit fabrics. A universal needle size 14/90
comes inserted in your machine.
Ball point – the point spreads the fibers, preventing
tears and is especially suited for knit fabrics. Not
recommended for embroidery.
Denim – the sharp point effectively pierces densely
woven fabrics such as denim and canvas.
Stretch – specially designed to prevent skipped
stitches in synthetic suedes and elasticized knits
(swimwear).
Leather – the cutting point creates small holes in
leather and suede.
Topstitching – the extra sharp point penetrates layers
of fabrics; extra large eye and large groove accommodate heavyweight topstitching thread.
Twin/Double – 2 needles are joined on a crossbar
and share a single shaft. Sews two parallel rows of
stitching. Available in universal and ballpoint.
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Connecting Machine To Power Supply
Before connecting the power cord, make sure the
voltage and frequency shown on the machine are
identical to your electrical power.
To connect the foot control …, turn off the power
switch „. Insert the foot control plug • and machine
plug ‚ into the machine and the power supply plug
ƒ
into the wall socket.
Your machine may come equipped with a polarized
plug (one prong wider than the other). A polarized
plug reduces the risk of electrical shock. This plug is
intended to fit into a polarized outlet. If the plug does
not fit fully into the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still
does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install
the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
IMPORTANT:
When using your sewing machine the
first few times, place waste fabric under the presser
foot and run the machine without thread for a few
minutes. Wipe away excess oil.
For Your Safety
Do not use extension cords or plug adapters.
Do not touch plug with wet hands.
Always turn off the power/light switch first and then
unplug from the electrical outlet. Examples:
•
when leaving the machine unattended
•
when cleaning the machine
Always turn off the power/light switch:
•
when attaching or removing parts such as
needle, presser foot, needle plate
•
when threading needle or bobbin
Do not place anything on the foot control.
Do not place heavy items on cords. Do not subject
cords to heat. Do not use damaged cords. Have the
cord repaired immediately.
While the machine is in operation, always keep your
eye on the sewing area and do not touch any moving parts such as the thread take-up lever, flywheel
or needle.
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1.
Up/Down Needle Key
If the needle is up when you press this key, the
needle will go down to its lowest position. The
needle will continue to stop in the down position.
If the needle is down when you press this key,
the needle will go to its highest position. The
needle will continue to stop in the up position.
2.
Auto-Lock Key
Press this key while sewing a straight stitch, zig-
zag stitch or 3-step zigzag stitch and the ma-
chine will sew a few stitches in place and stop
automatically.
* Press this key while sewing utility or decorative
stitches and the machine will complete the stitch,
lockstitch and stop.
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Lift front cover up and
away to reveal the
Selection Keys and LED
readout.
Switch on the machine.
(Test lights run in LED
readout.)
Main Function
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3.
Reverse Key
If you are sewing a straight stitch, zigzag stitch
or 3-step zigzag stitch, press and hold this key.
The machine will sew in reverse until you release
the key.
* If you are sewing utility or decorative stitches,
the machine will immediately stop and sew a
locking stitch when you press this key.
4. Indicator Lights and LED Readout
a. When this light is lit, the readout displays the
selected stitch.
b. When this light is lit, the readout displays the
selected stitch width/needle position.
c. When this light is lit, the readout displays the
selected stitch length.
5. Stitch Width and Needle Position Key
Press this key to display pre-programmed stitch
width or needle position.
To decrease stitch width or move needle position
to the left, press – side of key.
To increase stitch width or move needle position
to the right, press + side of key.
The stitches listed below allow you to move the
needle to any position by pressing the – or +
side of the key. There are 15 needle positions for
straight stitches (0.0 – 7.0).
a Left position
b Center position
c Right position
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c
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b
c
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6. Stitch Length Key
Press this key to display pre-programmed stitch
length.
Depending on the stitch selected, stitch length
can be set between 0.0 and 5.0.
To decrease stitch length, press – side of key.
To increase stitch length, press + side of key.
•
The reverse stitch length will not sew any longer
than 2.5 mm (approx. 1/8”).
NOTE:
Fine fabrics should have a stitch length be-
tween 1.5 and 2.5, medium fabrics between 2.0 and
3.0 and heavier fabrics between 3.0 and 4.0.
7. Stitch Selection Keys
a. Press and hold this key to access
stitches 1 – 15.
b. Press and hold this key to access
stitches 16 – 30.
c. Press and hold this key to access
stitches 31 – 45.
d. Press and hold this key to access
stitches 46 – 60.
15
1
a
b
c
d
1.0
2.5
5.0
15
16
30
31
45
46
60
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Winding a Bobbin
To remove bobbin, slide bobbin cover plate release
button to the right and lift away the bobbin cover
plate.
Lift out the bobbin.
•
Lift up the spool pin. Place the spool of thread on
the spool pin with the thread coming off the spool
as shown. Attach the spool holder and press it
firmly against the spool of thread.
NOTE:
Spool holder needs to be changed according
to the type of thread spool
A. Large spool
B. Small spool
k
Pull the thread towards the thread guides, under
the hook and wrap it around the guide as shown.
l
Pull the thread back around the bobbin winder
thread guide.
m
Pass the thread through the hole in the bobbin
from inside to the outside.
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B
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n
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle
and push it to the right. The LED readout will
display “SP.”
o
Holding the free end of the thread, press the foot
control. Stop the machine when it has made a
few turns and cut the thread tail close to the
hole in the bobbin. Press the foot control again.
When the bobbin is fully wound, it will stop auto
matically.
p
Move the spindle to the left to return the bobbin
winder to its original position. Cut the thread as
shown.
Additional Spool Pin
The additional spool pin can be used to wind an extra bobbin without unthreading the machine.
PROCEDURE:
Insert the spool stand k and the ad-
ditional spool pin l in the hole j. Place the felt
m
and spool n on the pin with the thread coming off
the spool as shown.
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Inserting the Bobbin
Place the bobbin in the bobbin case with the thread
running counterclockwise.
Guide the thread into notch A on the front side of the
bobbin case.
Hold the bobbin with your right hand and pull the
thread to the left, through the tension spring blades.
Continue pulling the thread lightly until the thread
slips into notch B.
Pull out about 15 cm (6”) of thread.
Replace the bobbin cover plate.
Refer to the chart shown on the bobbin cover plate
to check the threading.
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Threading the Machine
j
Raise the presser foot.
k
Press the key until the needle is in an up position.
l
Pull the thread around the upper thread guide.
m
Guide the thread down and around the check
spring holder.
n
Firmly pull the thread from right to left, over the
take-up lever and down into the take-up lever
eye.
o
Proceed down through the lower thread guide.
p
Slide the thread to the left behind the needle bar
thread guide.
Thread the needle from front to back manually or
use the built-in needle threader.
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Built-in Needle Threader
Press the key until the needle is in an up position.
Lower the needle threader lever as far as it will go.
Hook A is automatically inserted into the needle eye.
Bring the thread around Guide B and under Hook A.
Release the lever and let the needle threader return
to its original position.
Pull the thread loop to the back to manually bring the
thread through the needle eye.
•
The needle threader can be used with #11 to
#16 size needles. Thread weight may vary from
30 to 100.
NOTE:
Needle threader cannot be used with a twin
needle or wing needle.
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Drawing Up the Bobbin Thread
Raise the presser foot and hold the needle thread
lightly with your left hand.
Press the j twice to pick up the bobbin thread.
Draw up the needle thread together with a loop of
bobbin thread.
Slide 10 cm (4”) of both threads to the back under
the presser foot.
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SECTION III
Sewing
Example of How To Read the Machine Set-Up
Information
Select Stitch
j
Press 1-15 key to select stitch 01. LED readout
shows 01.
Which Presser Foot to Use
k
Use presser foot shown (A: Metal foot) for the
best sewing result. See page 5 for presser foot
definitions.
Set Thread Tension
l
Set thread tension to 4. See page 9.
Each stitch has a pre-programmed length and/or
width. Some techniques require other settings.
These will indicated when necessary.
Straight Stitch
When the machine is turned on, it is automatically
set to sew a straight stitch in the center needle position.
The straight stitch is used to sew a seam in woven
fabrics. The straight stitch can also be used for gathering, basting, sewing in a zipper, pintucks, rolled
hems and twin needle hems.
Starting To Sew
Raise the presser foot and position the fabric next to
a seam allowance line on the needle plate. Lower
the needle to the point where sewing is to begin.
Pull the threads under the foot towards the back and
lower the presser foot.
Press the foot control. Gently guide the fabric along
the seam allowance line letting the fabric feed naturally.
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Finishing Off a Seam
To fasten the threads at the end of a seam, press
and hold the key while sewing.
Raise the presser foot. Remove the fabric; pull the
threads to the back and cut threads using the thread
cutter. (The threads are cut the proper length to start
the next seam.)
Changing Sewing Direction
Stop the machine and press the key to bring the
needle down into the fabric. Raise the presser foot.
Pivot the fabric around the needle to change sewing
direction. Lower the presser foot. Press the key
to bring the needle up.
Sewing On Heavy Fabrics
The black button on presser foot A locks the foot in a
horizontal position when pushed in before lowering
the presser foot. This ensures even feeding at the
beginning of seams and helps when sewing many
layers of fabric such as welt seams used to hem
jeans.
When the point of an increased thickness is reached,
lower the needle and raise the presser foot. Press in
the black button. Lower the foot and continue sewing.
This button releases automatically after a few
stitches have been sewn.
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Gathering
Gathering with straight stitches works best on light to
medium weight fabrics.
Decrease tension to between 1 and 3. Increase
stitch length to 5.0.
Sew two rows of parallel stitches. Sew first row next
to raw edge using foot A as guide. Sew second row
next to first row using foot A as guide. Leave long
thread tails at beginning and end of each row.
Pull on the bobbin threads simultaneously from each
end of the fabric until the desired amount is gathered.
Knot the threads at each end and distribute the gathers evenly.
Increase tension to 4 and decrease stitch length to
2.4.
Sew between two rows of stitching to secure gather-
ing.
OR
Lay gather fabric over flat fabric and sew the two
fabrics together directly on the second row of gathering stitches.
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Zipper Insertion
Lapped Application
Lapped zippers are usually inserted into a side seam
of skirts or pants, for example.
Attach the pin on zipper foot E to the groove on the
shank.
•
To sew the left side of the zipper, attach the zipper foot on the right-hand side.
•
To sew the right side of the zipper, attach the
zipper foot on the left-hand side.
Fabric Preparation
Add 1 cm (3/8”) to the zipper size. Use this measurement and mark the opening for the zipper.
Place right sides of fabric together and sew the
seam located below zipper placement. (Make sure to
reverse sew the stitches directly below the zipper
placement.)
Increase stitch length to 5.0 and baste the zipper
opening closed. Press the seam and basting seam
open.
Open zipper and place it face down on the seam
allowance. Teeth are on the seam line and zipper top
is 1 cm (3/8”) from fabric top edge. Attach foot with
left side pin. Baste zipper in place, sewing from bottom to top.
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Close zipper. Turn zipper face up (right seam allowance forms a small fold at basting line) and smooth
zipper teeth away from seam. Attach foot with right
side pin. Reset straight stitch length to 2.2. Starting
at the bottom, sew through the folded seam allowance and zipper tape.
Stop just before the zipper foot reaches the slider on
the zipper tape. Lower the needle slightly into the
fabric. Raise the zipper foot and open the zipper.
Lower the foot and stitch the remainder of the seam.
Close the zipper and spread the fabric flat with the
right side facing up. Baste through the opened seam
allowance and zipper tape.
Move the zipper foot to the left side pin. Guide the
edge of foot along the zipper teeth and stitch
through the garment and zipper tape. Stop about 5
cm (2”) from the top of the zipper.
Slightly lower the needle into the fabric. Raise the
foot, remove the basting stitches and open the zipper. Lower the foot and stitch the remainder of the
seam, making sure the fold is even.
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Pintucks
Pintucks should be added to your fabric before cutting out the pattern piece.
1. Use a washable fabric marker and draw lines for
pintucks on the fabric right side.
2. Fold the fabric together on the first line with
wrong sides together.
3. Place folded fabric under presser foot against
the blind hem foot guide. Decide how wide you
want the pintucks and move the thumb nut j to
move the guide.
4. Sew using the foot as a guide for the folded
edge.
5. Sew all pintucks. Remove fabric marker lines
before pressing pintucks to one side.
Quilt Guide
The quilt guide is helpful when sewing parallel,
evenly spaced rows of stitching.
Loosen the quilt holding screw, slide the quilt guide
in the opening until the desired width is set and
tighten the screw. Sew; the quilt guide will lie over
the previous row of stitching.
The quilt guide can also be used with the walking
(even feed) foot, an optional accessory.
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Rolled Hem (optional foot)
An easy, professional way to sew hems using the
straight stitch. Recommended for fine, sheer fabrics
used in bridal wear.
Make a double 3 mm (1/8”) fold approximately 8 cm
(3”) in length.
Lower needle into fabric at point where sewing is to
begin. Lower presser foot. Sew 3 or 4 stitches while
holding needle and bobbin threads.
Lower needle into fabric and raise presser foot. Insert folded portion of fabric into curl of foot.
Lower presser foot; sew by lifting up the edge of fabric to keep it feeding smoothly.
Trim about 6.5 mm (1/4”) from corners to reduce
bulk.
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Twin Needle Hem
A twin needle hem is quick and easy. This is an excellent hemming method for knit fabrics because the
bobbin thread zigzags, allowing the hem to stretch
with the fabric. Be sure to use a stretch twin needle
for knit fabrics.
Turn off the power switch and insert a twin needle.
Insert the additional spool pin and put the spool pin
felt and second spool on it. See page 17.
Threading the Machine
j
– lThread 1 through 3 in the same manner as
single thread. See page 19.
m
Draw the threads down and slide them
through the right side of the lower thread
guide.
n
Slide one of the threads through the needle
bar thread guide on the left and the other one
on the right.
o
Thread the needles from front to back.
NOTE:
The needle threader cannot be used
with a twin needle.
Fold the hem up desired amount and topstitch with
the twin needle. Carefully trim away excess fabric
using sharp scissors.
Remove twin needle. Set up machine for single
needle sewing.
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Zigzag Stitch
The zigzag stitch is a very versatile stitch. Simply
change its width and length. Use the zigzag to finish
raw seam edges, sew narrow hems, sew satin stitch
appliques and create beautiful monograms.
Adjusting Stitch Width and Length
Press the – or + side of the keys to change the stitch
width and length.
j
Narrower width (lower number)
k
Wider width (higher number)
l
Shorter stitch (lower number)
m
Longer stitch (higher number)
Overcasting
Simple zigzag stitching is used for finishing raw
seam edges (overcasting) on most woven fabrics to
prevent fabric from unraveling. This is the fastest
way to finish an edge.
• Do not change the stitch width when using op-
tional overlock foot C.
Place the fabric edge next to the black guide on the
foot. Sew.
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Whip and Roll Hem
This technique produces a beautiful edge on ruffles
and hems. It should only be used for lightweight fabrics and is commonly used in heirloom sewing.
Decrease stitch width to 3.5 and stitch length to 0.8.
The fabric edge must be clean cut with no unraveling
threads. Lay the fabric edge in the center of the foot.
The zigzag will catch the edge on the left and clear
the raw edge on the right, rolling the fabric.
.
Satin Stitch Applique
The zigzag stitch is commonly used for applique,
monogramming, stems of flowers and petals. (A
short zigzag stitch length creates the satin stitch.)
Threads of 100% cotton, rayon or silk provide the
best results.
•
Apply stabilizer to the fabric for the stitch to form
correctly.
Decrease stitch width to 3.5 and stitch length to 0.4.
Applique Preparation
1. Press fusible webbing to the wrong side of a
lightweight fabric.
2. Cut out design shape. Fuse design to main fab-
ric.
3. Sew design to fabric with the needle swinging off
the applique.
4. When you reach a place where you need to turn,
lower the needle into the fabric at the outer edge
of the turn. Raise the presser foot, turn fabric,
lower the presser foot and continue sewing.
You
may need to set the foot pressure dial to 2.
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How To Sew On a Button
Hand sewing buttons to a garment is very time-consuming. Sew them on in one quick, easy step.
Drop the feed dog. See page 7.
•
Set the stitch width according to the position of
the holes in the button.
Mark button placement on fabric. Use washable glue
or transparent tape to temporarily secure the button.
Place the button and fabric under the presser foot.
Match the holes in the button to the horizontal slot
on the presser foot.
Turn the flywheel by hand until the needle is down
inside the left hole of the button. Lower the presser
foot.
.
Turn the flywheel by hand to position the needle
above the right hole of the button. Press the key
to adjust the needle over the right hole.
Stitch several times.
After you finish sewing, cut the thread leaving 10-15
cm (4-6”) of thread at the button.
Pull the thread to the reverse side of the fabric and
tie the threads.
Raise the feed dog after sewing on buttons.
NOTE:
The optional Sewing on Button foot grips the
button better and also allows you to create a thread
shank. Simply insert a pin into hole on front of foot
before sewing. After sewing, wrap thread tails to create shank.
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3-Step Zigzag
The 3-step zigzag (sometimes called a multiple zigzag) is used to finish raw seam edges on synthetics
and other fabrics that tend to pucker. This stitch
gives a flatter edge finish than the regular zigzag
and is excellent for darning and mending tears in
fabric.
Place the fabric under the presser foot so the needle
swings off the fabric to the right.
Mending a Tear
Pull torn edges together and fuse a piece of interfacing slightly larger than the tear to the wrong side of
the garment.
Decrease stitch length to 0.6 – 0.8.
Begin sewing above the tear. Stitch down the middle,
pulling edges together. Stop sewing just beyond end
of tear. Depending on the tear, you might need to
stitch area 2 or 3 times.
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Blind Hem Stitches
The woven blind hem is a great method of finishing a
hemline or sleeve. Finish the raw hem edge with a
zigzag or 3 step zigzag before sewing the blind hem.
Use the stretch blind hem on knit fabrics.
.
Fold up the hem allowance and press. Fold under
the hem toward right side of garment. Leave a 6.510 mm (1/4” to 3/8”) extension k at the right
j
Wrong side of fabric.
Position the fabric so the folded edge is to the left
side of the guide n. Lower the presser foot. Make
sure only the zigzag catches one or two fibers of the
fold m.
NOTE:
If you are using the stretch blind hem ,
only the widest zigzag catches one or two fibers.
By turning the adjustment nut o, it is possible to
move the guide to the right or left. (The narrow zigzag l will be sewn on the single fabric layer.)
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Shell Tuck
This is a pretty hem finish for lingerie and tricot fabrics. Can also be used for decorative rows of stitching.
Use a lightweight fabric such as tricot. Fold and
stitch on the bias. Set the stitch width and length as
you desire. You may need to tighten the top thread
slightly. Allow the needle to just clear the folded edge
of the fabric when it swings off the fabric to the right.
If you sew rows of shell stitches, space the rows at
least 1.5 cm (5/8”) apart.
You can sew shell stitches in any direction on knits or
soft silky wovens.
Box Stitch
Use this stitch to attach elastic directly onto fabric
without making an elastic casing.
1. Mark the elastic into quarters and match these to
the center front, center back and side seams.
2. Place the middle of the elastic under the center
of the presser foot and stitch into place, making
sure the elastic is evenly stretched.
NOTE:
Use the optional Elastic Gatherer to eliminate
manually stretching the elastic. See page 50.
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Triple Seam
This strong, durable stitch is recommended where
both elasticity and strength are needed. Because of
its durability, once in place, this stitch is not easily
removed. Use it to reinforce areas such as crotch
and armhole seams or to construct items such as
backpacks. This stitch can also be used for
topstitching.
Elna invented this stitch in 1952.
Using a straight stitch (stitch length 4), baste a seam
together. Verify the fit. Reset the machine for triple
seam and sew.
Saddle Stitch
Similar to the Triple Seam, the long stitch length of
the Saddle Stitch makes a lovely topstitch effect for
suits, blazers, jumpers, jeans and linen napkins. Because of its configuration, once in place, this stitch is
not easily removed.
Decide distance topstitching should be located from
edge of fabric. Turn the adjustment nut to set this
distance. Position the fabric against left side of
guide. Lower the presser foot and sew.
Stretch Seam
A narrow stretch stitch that eliminates puckering on
knit fabrics and bias seams. The seam can be
pressed flat and opened.
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Decorative Stretch Stitches
Choose a decorative stretch stitch for applying a
hem to knit fabrics.
1. Fold and press under hem allowance.
2. Place the fabric under the presser foot. Lower
the presser foot. Sew hem.
3. Trim away any excess hem fabric.
Super Stretch Stitch
This stitch is recommended for sewing fabrics such
as swimwear and stretch velour as it provides the
greatest amount of stretchability and strength.
Seams lie flat and do not lose their shape. Foot pressure may need to be changed to 2 for fabric to maintain its shape.
Place the fabric edges together under the presser
foot. Trim away any excess seam allowance.
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Super Overlock Stitch
This industrial inspired overlock stitch is excellent for
assembling and finishing fabrics together in one
step. Apply ribbing to knits and garment retains its
shape.
Place the fabric edges together under the presser
foot next to the right side edge of the presser foot.
Elna invented this stitch in 1982.
Double Overlock Stitch
This stitch finishes the edges of your seams similar
to a commercial overlock machine stitch.
Place the fabric edges together under the presser
foot. Trim away any excess seam allowance.
Elna invented this stitch in 1976.
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Buttonhole Variations
All buttonholes should use interfacing that is the
same weight as the fabric. Interfacing is especially
important when sewing on stretch fabrics.
j
Classic Buttonhole
The most common buttonhole, found on
blouses, shirts, pants, etc. It consists of a
bartack at each end and a compact zigzag stitch
along each side. Set the stitch width to narrow
for lightweight fabrics and wide for heavyweight
fabrics.
k
Keyhole Buttonhole
Accommodates the shank found on large buttons used on heavy coats and jackets.
l
Jeans Buttonhole
Traditionally found on ready-to-wear jeans and
other denim garments.
m
Stretch Buttonhole
Designed for non-woven fabrics such as knit and
jersey. It provides a decorative touch.
Test sew the buttonhole on a sample swatch of the
same fabric. Include the interfacing and any seam
allowances that will be in the actual garment. This is
very important to ensure the buttonhole style and
fabric are compatible.
Select a buttonhole. Alter the buttonhole width to
match the fabric and thread. See page 42.
When attaching buttonhole foot, make sure the button opening is at the back of the foot.
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Extend the buttonholder to the back and place the
button in it. Push the holder together tightly around
the button.
Placing the button in the automatic buttonhole foot
automatically sets the size of the buttonhole. The
buttonholder on the foot adjusts for a button up to
2.5 cm (1”) in diameter.
Pull the buttonhole lever down as far as it will go.
Mark the buttonhole area on the fabric. Place
both
threads
to the left
under
the foot. Insert the garment
under the foot and lower the needle at the starting
point. Then lower the buttonhole foot.
While sewing a buttonhole, the LED readout flashes
which portion is currently being sewn.
A flashing “.” in the LED readout signals that the buttonhole is finished.
Raise the presser foot and the readout signal disappears.
NOTE:
If presser foot is not raised and another stitch
is selected, this warning message will appear.
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#16 Classic Buttonhole
The buttonhole will automatically sew:
j
the front bartack and zigzag on left side
k
straight stitch on right side to front bartack
l
zigzag on right side
m
back bartack and stop
Variation – Reinforced Buttonhole
Suitable for heavyweight fabric. When Classic Buttonhole sewing is complete, do not lift up presser
foot. Simply begin sewing again and sew over first
buttonhole.
#17 Keyhole Buttonhole
The buttonhole will automatically sew:
j
the front left half of keyhole, zigzag on left side
and straight stitch on right side to front
k
front right half of keyhole and zigzag on right
side
l
back bartack and stop
#18 Jeans Buttonhole
The buttonhole will automatically sew:
j
the front left half of rounded end, zigzag on left
side and straight stitch on right side to front
k
front right half of rounded end and zigzag on
right side
l
back bartack and stop
#19 Stretch Buttonhole
The buttonhole will automatically sew:
j
straight stitch on left side backwards cross stitch
forward on left side
k
front bartack
l
straight stitch on right side backwards, back
bartack, cross stitch forward on right side and
stop
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Remove the fabric and place a pin just inside the
bartack at each end to prevent accidentally cutting
bartacks. Cut buttonhole open with the seam ripper.
When buttonhole sewing is finished, push the buttonhole lever upward as far as it will go.
If the button is extremely thick and difficult to fit
through the test buttonhole, you can lengthen the
buttonhole by pulling the buttonholder on the foot
back a little extra. The length of the hole will increase
by that same amount.
j
Buttonholder
k
Slider
l
There should be no gap
m
Spring holder
n
Incorrect buttonhole
Make sure there is not a gap between the slider and
the spring holder. If there is a gap, the sides of the
buttonhole will be different lengths n.
• How to Alter Buttonhole Stitch Width
and Length
Press the – or + side of the keys to alter the buttonhole for different weights of fabric and thread.
j
Narrower width
k
Wider width
l
Shorter stitch
m
Longer stitch
• Alter Keyhole Buttonhole Stitch Length
According to Fabric and Thread
0.3 Lightweight fabric
(for lawn and batiste)
0.4 Mediumweight fabric
(for gabardine, linen and wool)
0.8 Heavyweight fabric
(for coating and polar fleece)
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Corded Buttonhole
Corded buttonholes are found on coats and other
garments that require extra strong buttonholes. The
cording reinforces and accentuates the buttonhole.
Sew a corded buttonhole using the same procedure
described on pages 39-42 for a classic buttonhole.
•
Set the stitch width to match the thickness of the
cording.
With the buttonhole foot raised, hook the filler cord
j
on the spur k at the back of the buttonhole foot.
Bring the ends forward under the buttonhole foot.
Position the cord into the forks l on the front of the
foot to hold the ends tight.
Lower the needle into the garment where the buttonhole will start and lower the presser foot.
Press the foot control and slowly sew the buttonhole.
Each side of the buttonhole and the bartacks will be
sewn over the cord. Remove the fabric from the machine and cut only the sewing threads.
Pull the left end of the cord to tighten it. Thread the
end through a darning needle, draw to the wrong
side of the fabric and cut.
Cut open buttonhole.
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Buttonhole Applique
A favorite method of applying small pieces of fabric
to quilts for decoration.
Use fine embroidery thread (50 weight or finer) and
needle appropriate to fabric. You may need to set
the foot pressure dial to 2.
1. In this type of applique, raw edges are folded
under.
To prepare raw edge, first cut applique design
out of paper.
2. Press fusible webbing to wrong side of applique
fabric.
3. Cut the fabric slightly larger than paper pattern.
4. Fold fabric under to match paper pattern size.
Remove pattern. Press only the edge to form a
perfectly shaped design.
NOTE: Clip curves where necessary.
5. Press applique in place and sew. Straight edge
of the stitch is sewn next to folded edge of applique.
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Fringing
Fringing adds a special touch on table linens and
shawls. Choose a firm, woven fabric like linen where
threads can be removed easily.
Carefully cut the fabric on grain. Remove a single
yarn or thread where the fringing is to begin. Sew
down the left side so the right hand stitches fall in
the open space. Remove all excess yarn to create
fringe.
Stitch can also be used.
Hemstitches
Hemstitching, also known as French hand sewing,
was traditionally only a hand sewn art. There are
several stitches to choose from that will add an “old
world charm”. Best results require the use of linen,
cotton or a blend of linen/cotton.
Thread machine, needle and bobbin with a fine cotton embroidery thread (50 weight or finer). Insert a
universal needle size #110 or a wing needle. Use
spray starch and press to stabilize fabric.
NOTE:
Only insert a wing needle when sewing the
stitches listed below. A wing needle is wider than a
regular needle. Hand turn the flywheel a few times to
ensure needle does not touch needle plate. If needle
touches needle plate, narrow the stitch width.
Draw design lines with a washable fabric marker.
Sew slowly over design lines.
•
Adjust fine tuning until needle precisely penetrates each repeat hole. See page 6.
Remove wing needle.
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Drawn Work
Drawn work uses the same method as fringing.
Choose a firm, woven fabric like linen where threads
can be removed easily.
Carefully cut fabric on grain. Determine width of the
drawn work and remove one yarn or fabric thread at
each end.
Sew down right side, guiding fabric so left hand
stitches fall in open space.
After finishing left side, turn the fabric around 180°.
Sew down other side.
Remove the yarn or fabric threads between the
stitching.
Picot Stitch
The picot stitch can be used to sew fabrics together
“edge-to-edge”.
1. Fold and press under the seam allowance to
wrong side of fabric on both fabric edges.
2. With the fabric right side up, place the folded
edges next to each other under the middle of the
presser foot. Sew with the folded edges touching
each other.
NOTE:
Create fagoting (bridging), a technique seen
in heirloom sewing, with the optional Fagoting (Bridging) Plate. Two folded edges are joined together by
threads over an open area. See page 50.
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Patchwork
Sew a straight stitch seam and press seam allowance open. Sew patchwork stitch on right side of
garment centering it over the seam.
These stitches can also be used:
Twin Needle Decorative Stitches
Sew decorative stitches with a twin needle and two
different needle thread colors.
Turn off power switch and insert twin needle. Thread
machine. See page 29.
Decrease stitch width to 3.5 or less.
NOTE:
Twin needles are available in many different
sizes and widths. If you use a twin needle wider than
2.0 mm, hand turn the flywheel to make sure the
needles will not hit the foot before sewing.
Sew.
These stitches can also be used:
Single Pattern – Auto-Lock Key
It is possible to sew a single pattern for a decorative
effect.
Place fabric and stabilizer under presser foot and
lower presser foot. Begin sewing and immediately
press key. Machine will complete the stitch,
lockstitch and stop.
Position fabric for another pattern and repeat the
process.
Use this process for any pattern.
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Scallop Edges
Scallop stitches can be used to attractively finish the
edges of collars, pockets and placemats.
To edge a collar, place interfacing between upper
and under collar and sew the scallop on the seam
line.
After sewing, trim fabric close to stitching. Do not cut
the scallops.
This stitch can also be used.
Complete Pattern – Auto-Lock Key
Choose any of the stitches 31-60 for decorative sewing.
•
Remember to use stabilizer appropriate to the
fabric.
Press key at end to complete the pattern and tie
off stitches.
Combining Patterns
Add a decorative accent to your sewing. Express
your creative talents by alternating stitches.
•
Remember to use stabilizer appropriate to the
fabric.
Sew two hearts; press key while sewing second
heart.
Select and sew flower; press key while sewing
flower.
Repeat process as desired.
NOTE:
The key locks the stitches.
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Smocking
Smocking is a delicate, decorative treatment on
children’s clothing or women’s blouses. Choose a
soft, lightweight fabric such as batiste, gingham or
challis. Cut the fabric three times the finished width.
Increase stitch length to 5.0.
Sew rows of straight stitches about 1 cm (3/8”) apart,
across the area to be smocked. (A looser needle
thread tension will make gathering easier.)
j
Straight stitching lines – 1 cm (3/8”) apart
Tie the threads along one edge. Pull the bobbin
threads to distribute the gathers evenly. Secure the
threads at the other end.
Sew smocking stitch between the straight stitches.
(Pressure may need to be reduced.) Pull out the
straight stitching lines.
k
Smocking stitch – remove gathering
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SECTION IV
Exclusive Optional Elna Accessories
Elastic Gatherer Plate
Apply elastic in one step without creating a casing.
The elastic gatherer stretches the elastic as it is
sewn to the fabric, a quick and easy method. Available in 3 sizes – 7 mm, 10 mm or 13 mm (1/4”, 3/8”
or 1/2”).
Increase stitch length to 3.0. Remove bobbin cover
plate.
Loosen the adjusting screw j on the elastic gatherer. Angle cut elastic end and insert elastic into slot
k
. Pull elastic through slot until 4 cm – 5 cm (1 1/2" -
2”) extends out the back. Tighten adjusting screw.
Attach elastic gatherer to machine.
Place scrap fabric under foot on top of elastic. Test
sew.
Tighten or loosen adjusting screw as desired.
Fagoting (Bridging) Plate
Fagoting (bridging) is a technique seen in heirloom
sewing. Two folded edges are joined together by
threads over an open area. Use linen, cotton or
blend of linen/cotton.
Remove the bobbin cover plate and attach the narrow fagoting plate.
Thread machine, needle and bobbin with a fine embroidery thread (50 weight or finer). Use spray starch
to stabilize fabric.
Fold and press under seam allowance to wrong side
of fabric.
Place folded fabric right side up on both sides of fagoting plate. Sew slowly, guiding the fabrics against
the fagoting plate. Adjust stitch width so needle
catches folded edges.
50
03
30
1
2
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SECTION V
Taking Care of Your Machine
Your Elna 6001 has been meticulously designed and
manufactured to give you a lifetime of sewing pleasure. Do not store the machine in a high humidity
area, near a heat radiator or in direct sunlight. The
machine is self-lubricating, however, the area around
the bobbin and hook must be cleaned each time the
machine has had extensive use. Do not dismantle
the machine further than explained on these pages.
Clean the outside of the machine with a soft cloth
and pure soap.
Cleaning the Bobbin Area
Loose threads and dust may cause puckered
stitches and thread breakage during stitching. Check
for lint buildup after each project is completed.
Press the key until the needle is raised. Unplug
the machine before cleaning.
j
Slide the bobbin cover plate release button to
the right to remove the bobbin cover plate.
k
Take out the bobbin; brush out dust and lint.
(You can also use a small vacuum cleaner.)
l
Insert the bobbin and attach the bobbin cover
plate.
Cleaning the Hook Area and Feed Dog
j
Remove the presser foot, bobbin cover plate,
needle and bobbin. Use the screwdriver supplied
with the machine to remove the screw on the left
side needle plate.
k
Remove the needle plate. Lift up and remove
the bobbin case.
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ƒ
Clean the feed dog and hook area with the lint
brush. Wipe out gently with soft, dry cloth. (You
can also use a small vacuum cleaner.)
Replacing the Bobbin Case
m
Insert the bobbin case so the knob fits next to
the stopper in the hook area.
1. Stopper
2. Knob
n
Replace the needle plate, inserting the two
needle plate guide pins into the holes in the
needle plate. Replace the screw.
After cleaning, be sure to replace the needle,
presser foot and bobbin.
Changing the Light Bulb
The sewing light is located behind the face plate.
Unplug the machine.
Remove screw button and screw. Pull away face
plate.
Pull out light socket. Pull out light bulb. Push in light
bulb with pins aligned to holes in light socket. Push
in light socket.
Replace face plate, screw and screw button.
NOTE:
Only use same type light bulb rated 12 Volts,
5 watts.
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3
4
5
1
2
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Condition
Needle thread
breaks
Bobbin thread
breaks
Needle breaks
Skipped
stitches
Seam puckering
Slipping fabric
Fabric does not
feed smoothly
Gathering
Machine does
not work
Stitches are
distorted
Automatic buttonhole stitches
do not work
Noisy operation
Machine stops
and the message Lo appears.
Machine stops
and the message E1 appears.
Cause
1. The needle is not threaded properly.
2. The needle thread tension is too tight.
3. The needle is bent or blunt.
4. The needle is not inserted correctly.
5. The needle thread and bobbin thread are not properly under (drawn to the
back of) the presser foot when starting to sew.
6. The fabric is not moved to the back when sewing is finished.
7. The thread is either too heavy or too fine for the needle.
1. The bobbin thread is not threaded correctly in the bobbin case.
2. Lint has collected in the bobbin case.
3. The bobbin is damaged and does not turn smoothly.
1. The needle is not inserted correctly.
2. The needle is bent or blunt.
3. The needle clamp screw is loose.
4. The needle thread tension is too tight.
5. The fabric is not moved to the back when sewing is finished.
6. The needle is too fine for the fabric being sewn.
1. The needle is not inserted correctly.
2. The needle is bent or blunt.
3. The needle and/or the thread are not suitable for the fabric being sewn.
4. A stretch needle is not being used for sewing stretch, very fine and
synthetic fabrics.
5. The needle thread is not threaded properly.
6. The foot pressure dial is not adjusted correctly.
7. The wrong needle is being used.
1. The needle thread tension is too tight.
2. The machine is not threaded correctly.
3. The needle is too large for the fabric being sewn.
4. The stitch length is too long for the fabric.
5. The foot pressure dial is not set correctly.
Place lightweight tearaway stabilizer under lightweight fabrics.
1. The foot pressure dial is not adjusted correctly.
2. The correct presser foot is not being used.
1. The feed dog is packed with lint.
2. The pressure foot dial is not set correctly.
3. The stitches are too short.
4. The feed dog was not raised after being lowered.
5. The correct presser foot is not being used.
1. The needle thread tension is too loose.
2. The needle is either too large or too small for the thread.
1. The machine is not plugged in.
2. A thread is caught in the hook area.
3. The bobbin winder spindle is still in the winding position.
1. The fine adjustment dial is not set properly.
2. The correct presser foot is not being used.
3. The needle thread tension is too tight.
4. The stitch length is not suitable for the fabric being sewn.
5. Use interfacing for fine or stretch fabrics.
1. The stitch length is not suitable for the fabric being sewn.
2. Interfacing is not being used with fabrics.
3. There is a gap between the slider and spring holder.
1. Threads have been caught in the hook area.
2. Lint has built up in the bobbin holder or hook area.
1. Threads have been caught in the hook area.
2. Lint has built up in the bobbin holder or hook area.
3. The machine is not threaded properly.
4. The fabric is too heavy.
1. Machine needs servicing.
See page(s)
19
9
10
10
21
23
10
18
51
Change bobbin.
10
10
10
9
23
10
10
10
10
11
19
7
10
9
18, 19
10
15
7
7
5
51
7
15
7
5
9
10
12
51
17
6
5
9
15
37
42
39
42
51
51
51
51
53
18, 19
10
Contact your
authorized Elna
service center
TROUBLESHOOTING
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INDEX
A
Accessories ......................................................4
Accessory Storage........................................... 4
Applique....................................................31, 44
Auto-Lock Key....................................13, 47, 48
B
Blind Hem Stitches ........................................ 34
Bobbin
Drawing Up Bobbin Thread .................... 21
Inserting ..................................................18
Winding ..............................................16-17
Bobbin Case...................................................52
Box Stitch ....................................................... 35
Bridging ....................................................46, 50
Button Sewing ................................................ 32
Buttonholes ...........................................6, 39-42
C
Cleaning
Bobbin Area ............................................ 51
Feed Dog ...........................................51-52
Hook Area ..........................................51-52
Machine ..................................................51
Connecting Machine to Power Supply ..........12
Corded Buttonhole ......................................... 43
D
Double Overlock Stitch .................................. 38
Drawn Work.................................................... 46
E
Elastic ............................................................. 35
Elastic Gatherer ....................................... 35, 50
Extension Table ............................................ 4, 6
F
Fabric........................................... 10, 15, 23, 42
Face Plate ........................................................ 3
Fagoting....................................................46, 50
Feed Dog.......................................................... 7
Fine Tuning Adjustment .............................6, 45
Flywheel ...........................................................3
Foot Control...................................................... 8
Foot Pressure Dial .......................................3, 7
Free Arm...........................................................6
Fringing........................................................... 45
G
Gathering........................................................24
H
Hems ..................................... 28, 29, 31, 34, 37
Hemstitches.................................................... 45
I
Indicator Lights...............................................14
Interfacing .................................... 31, 33, 39, 48
K
Keys.......................................................3, 13-15
L
LED Readout............................................13, 14
Light Bulbs.................................................. 1, 52
M
Mending a Tear............................................... 33
N
Needle Position .............................................. 14
Needle Threader ..................................3, 20, 29
Needles ....................................................10, 11
O
Oil ................................................................... 12
Overcasting .................................................... 30
P
Part Names ......................................................3
Patchwork.......................................................47
Patterns
Combining ............................................... 48
Completing .............................................. 48
Single ...................................................... 47
Picot Stitch .....................................................46
Pintucks .......................................................... 27
Plugs............................................................... 12
Power/Light Switch ....................................3, 12
Presser Foot
Attaching and Removing .......................... 7
Clearance.................................................. 8
Definitions ................................................. 5
Q
Quilt Guide .....................................................27
R
Reverse Key................................................... 14
Rolled Hem (optional foot) .............................28
S
Saddle Stitch .................................................. 36
Scallop Edges ................................................48
Seam Allowance Lines.....................................8
Shank ............................................................... 7
Shell Tuck.......................................................35
Smocking........................................................49
Speed ...............................................................8
Spool Pin ..................................................16, 17
Stabilizer................................ 31, 39, 44, 47, 48
Stitch Charts.....................................................3
Stitch Length Key...............................15, 30, 42
Stitch Selection Keys .....................................15
Stitch Width Key.................................14, 30, 42
Straight Stitch................................................. 22
Stretch Seam ................................................. 36
Stretch Stitches.............................................. 37
Super Overlock Stitch .................................... 38
Super Stretch Stitch....................................... 37
T
Thread ............................................................10
Thread Cutter ............................................. 3, 23
Thread Tension............................................. 3, 9
Threading ....................................................... 19
Three Step Zigzag ......................................... 33
Triple Seam .................................................... 36
Twin Needle........................................20, 29, 47
U
Up/Down Needle Key ....................................13
W
Whip and Roll Hem ........................................31
Wing Needle............................................. 20, 45
Z
Zigzag Stitch ..................................................30
Zippers 25-26
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