Brother BX3000, JS60 Operation Manual

Operation Manual

Sewing Machine

Product Code: 888-X62/X72

Manual de instrucciones

Máquina de coser

Product Code (Código de producto): 888-X62/X72

ENGLISH

ESPAÑOL

Be sure to read this document before using the machine.

We recommend that you keep this document nearby for future reference.

Lea este documento antes de utilizar la máquina.

Recomendamos que tenga este documento a mano por si necesita consultarlo más adelante.

—

IMPORTANT SAFETY

INSTRUCTIONS

Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.

DANGER

- To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1 Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning, when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the machine unattended.

WARNING

- To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.

2 Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when making any adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual:

•To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.

•Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.

•Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.

3 Electrical Hazards:

•This machine should be connected to an AC power source within the range indicated on the rating label. Do not connect it to a DC power source or inverter. If you are not sure what kind of power source you have, contact a qualified electrician.

•This machine is approved for use in the country of purchase only.

4 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest authorized Brother dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

•While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat, discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine and immediately unplug the power cord.

•When transporting the machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the machine by any other part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could cause injuries.

•When lifting the machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements, otherwise you may injure your back or knees.

5 Always keep your work area clear:

•Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

•Do not store objects on the foot controller.

•Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.

•Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

•Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

1

•Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine, power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.

•Do not place this machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table, otherwise the machine may fall, resulting in injuries.

6 Special care is required when sewing:

•Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.

•Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.

•Do not turn on the machine while pressing down the foot controller. The machine may start unexpectedly and cause personal injury or damage to the machine.

•Switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments in the needle area.

•Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.

•Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.

7 This machine is not a toy:

•Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.

•The plastic bag that this machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of children or disposed of.

Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of suffocation.

•Do not use outdoors.

8 For a longer service life:

•When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.

•Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.

•Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.

9 For repair or adjustment:

•If the light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized Brother Service Center.

•In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother Service Center.

Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.

Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.

For additional product information, visit our web site at www.brother.com

2

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

This machine is intended for household use.

FOR USERS IN COUNTRIES EXCEPT EUROPEAN COUNTRIES

This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety. Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.

FOR USERS IN EUROPEAN COUNTRIES

This appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and above and persons with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge if they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance in a safe way and understand the hazards involved. Children shall not play with the appliance. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made by children without supervision.

—

FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY

IMPORTANT

•In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to

BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug.

•Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.

•If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you should contact your authorized Brother Service Center to obtain the correct lead.

3

CONTENTS
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ..........	1
1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING
MACHINE ..................................	5
ACCESSORIES ................................................	5
Optional accessories ..........................................	5
THE MAIN PARTS ..........................................	6
Flat bed attachment ............................................	6
USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ................	7
Connecting plugs ................................................	7
Main power and sewing light switch ..................	8
Foot controller ....................................................	8
Checking the needle ...........................................	8
Replacing the needle ..........................................	8
Changing the presser foot .................................	10
THE CONTROLS ..........................................	11
Pattern selection dial ........................................	11
Stitch length dial ...............................................	11
Reverse sewing lever ........................................	12
THREADING THE MACHINE .......................	13
Winding the bobbin .........................................	13
Lower threading ...............................................	15
Lower threading (for models equipped with a
quick-set bobbin) ..............................................	16
Upper threading ...............................................	17
Using the needle threader (for models equipped
with a needle threader) .....................................	19
Drawing up the lower thread ............................	21
FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE
COMBINATIONS .........................................	22
2. SEWING BASICS .......................	23
Please read before sewing ................................	23
Starting sewing .................................................	23
Trial sewing ......................................................	24
Changing the sewing direction .........................	24
Sewing thick fabrics ..........................................	24
Sewing thin fabrics ...........................................	25
Sewing stretch fabrics .......................................	25
Stitching cylindrical pieces ...............................	25
Sewing with a twin needle (Option) ..................	25
Thread tension ..................................................	27

3. BUILT-IN STITCHES .................	29
Straight stitching ................................................	29
Zigzag stitching .................................................	29
Blind hem stitching ...........................................	30
Overedge stitching ............................................	32
4. SEWING BUTTONHOLES ........	33
Making a buttonhole .........................................	33
5. USING ATTACHMENTS AND
APPLICATIONS .......................	35
Zipper insertion .................................................	35
Gathering ..........................................................	36
Appliqués ..........................................................	36
USING OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES ...............	37
Sewing buttons ..................................................	37
Darning .............................................................	38
Using the blind stitch foot .................................	39
Satin stitches .....................................................	40
6. APPENDIX ................................	41
MAINTENANCE ............................................	41
Restrictions on oiling .........................................	41
Precautions on storing the machine ...................	41
Cleaning ...........................................................	41
TROUBLESHOOTING ..................................	43
INDEX ..........................................................	46

4

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

—

1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

ACCESSORIES

We have designed these accessories to help you easily perform most sewing tasks.

1.		2.	3.	4.
J	J	I	I
5.		6.

	No.	Part Name	Part Code
			Americas	Others
	1	Zigzag foot “J” (on machine)	XC4901-121
	2	Zipper foot “I”	XE9369-001
	3	Bobbin (Class 15)	SA156	SFB:
		(One is on machine)		XA5539-151

	No.	Part Name	Part Code
			Americas	Others
	4	Needle set	3-piece set:	XE5328-001
		(90/14 needle)	2-piece set: XE7064-001
	5	Screwdriver	XF3557-001
	6	Foot controller	See page 6

Note

● The included accessories vary depending on the machine model.

Optional accessories

The following are available as optional accessories to be purchased separately. Depending on the model you purchased, the following accessory may be included with your machine.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

M

M

6.7. 8. 9. 10.

	No.	Part Name	Part Code
			Americas	Others
	1	Extra spool pin	XG3488-001
	2	Twin needle	X57521-021
		(2.0/75 needle)
	3	Darning Plate	XC6063-021
	4	Button sewing foot “M”	XE2137-001
	5	Walking Foot	SA107	F034N: XC2165-002
	6	Quilting Foot	SA129	F005N: XC1948-052

Note

	No.	Part Name	Part Code
			Americas	Others
	7	1/4-inch Quilting Foot	SA125	F001N:
				XC1944-052
	8	Narrow Hemmer Foot	SA127	F003N:
				XC1945-052
	9	Blind Stitch Foot	SA134	F018N:
				XC1976-052
	10	Quilting guide	SA132	F016N:
				XC2215-052

●The quilting guide can be inserted into the holes at the back of the walking foot or the black plastic hole at the top of sewing ankle.

5

———————

THE MAIN PARTS			1
		1
3	2		J
4		5
		D
6		C	E
7		B
8			F
9

I

		K
:	A	G	H

1Bobbin winder (Page 13)

This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as the lower thread.

2Spool pin (Page 13, 17)

This holds the spool of thread.

3Thread guide (Page 13, 17)

This is used when winding the thread onto the bobbin and then threading the machine.

4 Thread take-up lever (Page 18)

5Hole for extra spool pin (Page 26)

This holds a second spool of thread for sewing with the twin needle.

6Upper tension-control dial (Page 27)

This controls the tension of the upper thread.

7Thread cutter (Page 24)

Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.

8Needle threader (Page 19)

(This is only available on certain models.)

9Quick-set bobbin (Page 16, 21)

(This is only available on certain models.)

0Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment (Page 6)

A Presser foot (Page 10)

BReverse sewing lever (Page 12)

Push this lever to stitch in the reverse direction.

CPattern selection dial (Page 11)

Turn this dial to set the stitch width.

DStitch length dial (Page 11)

Turn this dial to set the stitch length.

EHandwheel

Used to manually raise and lower the needle.

FAir vent

The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to circulate. Do not cover the air vent while the machine is being used.

GMain power and sewing light switch (Page 8)

You can turn the main power and sewing light switch on and off.

HFoot controller jack / socket (Page 7)

Plug in the foot controller plug and connect the machine to the power supply.

IPresser foot lever (Page 17)

Used to raise and lower the presser foot.

JHandle

Carry the machine by its handle when transporting.

KFoot controller (Page 8)

You can use this to control the sewing speed, and to start and stop sewing.

Foot Controller:

Model KD-1902 for 110-120V area

KD-1902 for 110-127V area (Brazil only) Model KD-2902 for 220-240V area

The foot controller part code differs depending on the country or region. Contact your Brother dealer or the nearest authorized Brother Service Center.

Flat bed attachment

The accessories can be stored in a compartment inside the flat bed attachment.

a Slideopen theit. flat bed attachment to the left to

1

2

1 Flat bed attachment

2 Storage compartment

6

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

—

USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

WARNING

●Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.

●Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and the power supply jack on the machine. Otherwise, a fire or electric shock may result.

●Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.

●Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:

•When you are away from the machine

•After using the machine

•When the power fails during use

•When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection

•During electrical storms

CAUTION

●Use only the power cord included with this machine.

●Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. Fire or electric shock may result.

●Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.

●When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.

●Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized Brother Service Center for repairs before continuing use.

●Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a fire may result.

Connecting plugs

aConnect the foot controller plug to the machine.

bConnectoutlet. the power supply plug to a wall

Note

●If a power outage occurs while the sewing machine is being operated, turn off the main power and unplug the power supply cord. When restarting the sewing machine, follow the necessary procedure to correctly operate

the machine. (For U.S.A. only)

●This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug.

If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

7

———————

Main power and sewing light switch

This switch turns the main power and sewing light on or off.

1

2

1 Turn on (toward the ‘I’ mark)

2 Turn off (toward the ‘O’ mark)

CAUTION

●Do not turn on the machine while pressing down the foot controller. The machine may start unexpectedly and cause personal injury or damage to the machine.

Foot controller

When you press the foot controller down lightly, the machine will run at a low speed. When you press harder, the machine’s speed will increase. When you take your foot off the foot controller, the machine will stop.

1

2

1 Slower

2 Faster

You should make sure that nothing is placed on the foot controller when the machine is not in use.

CAUTION

●Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to build up on the foot controller. Doing so could cause a fire or an electric shock.

Note

(For U.S.A. only)

●Foot Controller: Model KD-1902

This foot controller can be used on the machine with product code 888-X62/X72. The product code is mentioned on the machine rating plate.

Checking the needle

The sewing needle must always be straight and sharp	1
for smooth sewing.

■Checking the needle correctly

Put the flat side of the needle on a flat surface. Check the needle from the top and the sides. Dispose of any bent needles safely.

1

2

1 Parallel space

2 Level surface (bobbin cover, glass, etc.)

Replacing the needle

CAUTION

●Always turn off the machine before you change the needle. Otherwise, injuries may occur if the foot controller is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.

●Only use sewing machine needles for home use. Other needles may bend or break and cause injury.

●Never sew with a bent needle. A bent needle will easily break and cause injury.

aTurn off the machine.

bRaise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up.

cLower the presser foot lever.

1

1 Presser foot lever

8

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

—

CAUTION

●Before replacing the needle, place fabric or paper under the presser foot to prevent the needle from falling into the hole in the needle plate.

dHold the needle with your left hand, and then use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp screw counterclockwise to remove the needle.

1

1 Use a screwdriver

•Do not use excessive force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged.

eWith the flat side of the needle toward the back of the machine, insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper. Next, tighten the needle clamp using a screwdriver.

2
3	1

1 Use a screwdriver

2 Needle stopper

3 Needle

Install the twin needle in the same way.

CAUTION

●Make sure you insert the needle until it touches the stopper, and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with a screwdriver, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

9

Changing the presser foot

CAUTION

●Always turn off the machine before you change the presser foot. If you leave the power on and step on the controller, the machine will start and you may be injured.

●Always use the correct presser foot for the stitch pattern you have chosen. If you use the wrong presser foot, the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break, and may cause injury.

●Only use presser feet that have been designed to be used with this machine. Using any other presser foot may cause accident or injury.

You will have to change the presser foot depending on what you want to sew and how.

aTurn off the machine. Raise the presser foot lever.

bRaise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up.

c

Remove the presser foot by pulling it vertically downward.

1

2

1 Presser foot holder

2 Presser foot

|	Press the black
|	button at the back of
|	the presser foot
|	holder to release the
|	presser foot.
|
|
|
or|	1
|	2
|	3
|
|
|	1 Black button
|	2 Presser foot holder
|	3 Presser foot

Note

●Depending on the type of presser foot holder, the method of releasing the presser foot will vary.

dPut a different presser foot on the needle plate so that the bar on the presser foot is

in line with the slot on the shank.	1
Lower the presser foot lever and fix the

e presser foot onto the shank. If the presser foot is in the correct place, the bar should snap in.

1 2

1 Shank

2Bar

■Presser foot installation orientation

CAUTION

●If the presser foot is not installed with the correct orientation, the needle may strike the presser foot, which may bend or break the needle and cause injury.

10

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE—————

THE CONTROLS

Pattern selection dial

The width of the zigzag stitch is regulated by operating the pattern selection dial. The symbols on the dial show the stitch widths and straight stitches as illustrated below. Turn the dial so that the desired symbol (width) points to the mark above the dial. To select a straight stitch, for example, set the dial to a straight stitch symbol.

1

5

4

3

2

1

0.5

1 Pattern selection dial

2 Mark

3 Stitch width "5" (maximum)

4 Stitch width "4"

5 Stitch width "3"

6 Stitch width "2"

7 Stitch width "1"

8 Stitch width "0.5"

9 Straight stitch (left needle position)

0 Straight stitch (middle needle position) A Straight stitch (right needle position)

• The numeric values represent the degrees of stitch width.

Note

●Do not move the dial while the needle is in the fabric.

●When using the twin needle, the dial should always be set as follows:

•For zigzag stitch, set to 3 or less.

•For straight stitch, set to either the middle or right needle position.

Stitch length dial

The stitch length is regulated by turning this dial.

The numbers above the dial represent the stitch length in millimeters (mm).

Turn the dial so that the desired number points to the mark above the dial.

The larger numbers set a longer stitch length. When the dial is set to 0, the fabric is not fed. This setting is used for sewing on a button.

The area noted with an F is used for making a Satin Stitch (a close zigzag stitch), which can be used in making buttonholes and decorative stitches. The position needed for making the Satin Stitch may need to be adjusted according to the fabric and thread being used. To determine the correct dial position, first test the length settings on a fabric scrap.

1

1 Stitch length dial

2 Mark

3 Shorter

4 Longer

11

Reverse sewing lever	1
You can use reverse sewing for back tacking and
reinforcing seams.
To sew in reverse, push the reverse sewing lever in as
far as possible and hold it in that position while you
lightly push the foot controller. To sew forward, release
the reverse sewing lever. The machine will then sew
forward.
The length of reverse stitches is fixed at 2 mm (1/16
inch).

1

1 Reverse sewing lever

12

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

—

THREADING THE MACHINE

Winding the bobbin

CAUTION

●We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. If you use bobbins from other models, the machine will not work properly. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151). Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine. SA156 is Class 15 type bobbin.

Actual size

11.5 mm (7/16 inch)

This model

Other models

1

2

1 Pull the thread in completely.

3

1 Pre-tension disk

2 Bobbin winder shaft

3 Bobbin

aPull up the spool pin and put a spool of thread on this pin.

bWhile holding the thread from the spool with your right hand, pass the thread toward you, in the groove on the thread guide. Then, pass the thread around the pre-tension disk and pull the thread in completely.

CAUTION

●If the spool of thread is in the wrong place, or is set incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the spool pin.

13

cPass the end of the thread through the hole on the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin.

dPut the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft and slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right. Turn the bobbin clockwise, by hand, until the projection slides into the notch of the bobbin.

•Make sure to pull out 7 to 10 cm (3-4 inches) of thread from the hole on the bobbin.

3 1

2

1 Projection

2 Notch

3 7-10 cm (3 – 4 inches)

CAUTION

●Pull the thread taut and hold the end of the thread straight up. If the thread is too short, not pulled taut or held at an angle, injuries may occur when the thread is wound around the bobbin.

e Turn on the machine.

CAUTION

●Do not turn on the machine while pressing down the foot controller. The machine may start unexpectedly and cause personal injury or damage to the machine.

fWhile holding the end of the thread, gently press the foot controller to wind the thread around the bobbin a few times. Then stop the machine.

gTrim the excess thread above the bobbin.

•Leave 1 cm (1/2 inch) of thread from the hole

on the bobbin.	1

1

1 1 cm (1/2 inch)

CAUTION

●Make sure you follow the instructions carefully. If you do not cut the excess thread completely before winding the bobbin, when the thread runs low it may tangle around the bobbin and cause the needle to break.

hPress the foot controller to start.

iWhen the bobbin seems full and begins spinning slowly, take your foot off the foot controller.

jCut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left and remove the bobbin.

Note

●When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.

●The needle bar does not move when you slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.

CAUTION

●Not winding the bobbin properly may cause the thread tension to loosen, and may break the needle.

1	2
1	Wound evenly
2	Wound poorly

14

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

—

Lower threading

Install the bobbin wound with thread.

•For more details on using the quick-set bobbin, see page 16.

CAUTION

●Make sure you turn off the machine while threading. If you accidentally step on the foot controller and the machine starts to sew, you could be injured.

aPrepare the bobbin wound properly before threading the lower thread.

•See page 13 for the details about bobbin winding.

bRaise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and raise the presser foot lever.

cRemove the bobbin cover by sliding it and lift toward you.

1

1 Bobbin cover

dPut the bobbin in so the thread comes out in the direction shown by the arrow.

CAUTION

●Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls in the wrong direction, it may cause the thread tension to be incorrect or break the needle.

eHold the end of the thread, push the bobbin down with your finger, and then pass the thread through the slit, as shown.

•If the thread is not correctly inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case, it may cause incorrect thread tension.

1

1 Tension-adjusting spring

fReplace the bobbin cover. Put the projection into the bobbin race retainer groove and push closed.

1 2

1	Groove
2	Projection

•Make sure that the end of the thread comes out from the cover toward the rear of the machine (as shown in the illustration).

•Draw up the lower thread before starting sewing. Refer to “Drawing up the lower thread” on page 21 after threading the upper thread.

15

Lower threading (for models equipped with a quick-set bobbin)

Install the bobbin wound with thread.

This feature is only available on certain models.

aFollow steps a to d from “Lower threading” on page 15.

bWhile lightly holding down the bobbin with your right hand as shown, guide the thread through the slit (1 and 2). Then, pull the thread toward you to cut it with the cutter (3).

•At this time, check that the bobbin easily rotates counterclockwise.

2

1

23 1

1 Slit

2 Cutter (Cut the thread with the cutter.)

Note

●If the thread is not correctly inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case, it may cause incorrect thread tension.

1

1 Tension-adjusting spring

cReplace the bobbin cover. Put the projection into the race retainer groove

and push closed.	1

12

1	Groove
2	Projection

•Start sewing after threading the lower and upper thread. When sewing gathers or darts, you can draw up the lower thread by hand so that some thread will be left over. Refer to the steps in “Drawing up the lower thread” (page 21).

16

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —

Upper threading

2	2	1
	3
		5
	4

1	Spool pin	4	Thread take-up lever
2	Thread guide (back)	5	Mark on the handwheel
3	Thread guide (front)

CAUTION

●When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break.

●Never use a thread weight of 20 or lower.

●Use the needle and the thread in the correct combination. For details on the correct combination of needles and threads, refer to “FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE COMBINATIONS” on page 22.

aTurn off the machine.

bRaise the presser foot lever.

1

1 Presser foot lever

cRaise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up.

•If the needle is not correctly raised, the sewing machine can not be threaded.

dPull up the spool pin and put a spool of thread on this pin.

CAUTION

●If the spool of thread is in the wrong place, or is set incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the spool pin and cause the needle to break.

1

1 Mark on the wheel

17

eWhile holding the thread from the spool with your right hand, pass the thread toward you, in the groove on the thread guide.

•Make sure that the spring in the groove catches the thread.

1

1 Spring

fFeed the upper thread as shown in the following illustration.

1

4

2

5 3

gMake sure you guide the thread through the thread take-up lever from right to left as shown in the following illustration.

1

1

1 Thread take-up lever

Memo

●If the thread take-up lever is lowered, the upper thread can not be wrapped around the thread take-up lever. Make sure you raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the

mark on the wheel points up.

Put the thread behind the guide above the
h needle.	1
• The thread can easily be passed behind the
needle bar thread guide by holding the

thread in your left hand, then feeding the thread with your right hand.

1

1 Needle bar thread guide

iThread the needle from front to back leaving a thread tail of about 5 cm (2 inches).

•If your sewing machine is equipped with a needle threader, use the needle threader to thread the needle (see next section).

1

1 5 cm (2 inches)

Note

●Make sure you raise the presser foot lever and the thread take-up lever before you feed the upper thread.

●If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems.

18

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

Using the needle threader (for models equipped with a needle threader)

This feature is only available on certain models.

CAUTION

●The needle threader can be used with a 75/11 through 100/16 home sewing machine needle. However, the needle threader cannot be used with a 65/9 home sewing machine needle. When using special thread such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, the needle threader cannot be used.

●Thread with a thickness of 130/120 or thicker cannot be used with the needle threader.

●The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle or the twin needle.

●If the needle threader cannot be used, refer to “Upper threading” on page 17.

aFollow steps a to h from “Upper threading” on page 17 before using the needle threader.

bLower the presser foot lever.

cMake sure that the mark on the wheel points up as shown in the following illustration.

1

1 Mark on the wheel

—

dWhile lowering the needle threader lever, hook the thread onto the guide.

2 1

1 Needle holder

2 Needle threader lever

1

2

1 Needle holder

2 Needle threader lever

3 Guide

ePull down the needle threader lever as much as possible, and then turn the lever toward the back of the machine (away from you). Make sure that the hook passes through the eye of the needle and grabs the thread.

1

1 2

1 Hook

2 Thread

•Hold the thread in front of the needle to make sure that the hook grabs it.

19

fWhile lightly holding the thread, turn the needle threader lever toward the front of the machine (toward you). The hook will pull the thread through the needle.

g Raise the needle threader lever.

hPull the loop of the thread passed through the eye of the needle toward the rear of the machine.

1

1 Loop of thread

CAUTION

●Be careful not to pull on the thread with force or it may bend the needle.

●If the thread does not pass through the eye of the needle, start from step c again.

i Raise the presser foot lever.

jPass the end of the thread through the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm

(2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the	1
machine.

1

1 5 cm (2 inches)

Note

●If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems.

20

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

—

Drawing up the lower thread

aWhile lightly holding the end of the upper thread, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) by hand to lower and then raise the needle.

bPull on the upper thread to draw up the lower thread.

1

2

1

2

1 Upper thread

2 Lower thread

cPull out about 10 cm (4 inches) of both threads and put them toward the back of the machine under the presser foot.

1

2

1 Upper thread

2 Lower thread

■For models equipped with a quick-set bobbin

You can begin sewing immediately without drawing up the bobbin thread.

When sewing gathers or darts, you can draw up the lower thread by hand so that some thread will be left over. Before you draw up the lower thread, put the bobbin back in.

aRemove the bobbin cover, and then reinstall the bobbin.

bPass the thread along the slit in the direction of the arrow, and leave it there without cutting it.

• The bobbin cover should still be removed.

cDraw up the lower thread as described in the previous steps a to c.

dReplace the bobbin cover.

21

FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE COMBINATIONS

1

Fabric Type/Application			Thread		Size of Needle
		Type		Size
Medium weight	Broadcloth	Cotton thread		60–90
	Taffeta	Synthetic thread			75/11–90/14
fabrics
	Flannel, Gabardine	Silk thread		50
	Lawn	Cotton thread		60–90
Thin fabrics	Georgette	Synthetic thread			65/9–75/11
	Challis, Satin	Silk thread		50
	Denim	Cotton thread		30	100/16
Thick fabrics				50
	Corduroy	Synthetic thread		50–60	90/14–100/16
	Tweed	Silk thread
	Jersey				Ball point needle
Stretch fabrics		Thread for knits		50–60	75/11–90/14
	Tricot				(gold colored)
		Cotton thread		50–90
Easily frayed fabrics		Synthetic thread			65/9–90/14
		Silk thread		50
For top-stitching		Synthetic thread		30	100/16
		Silk thread		50–60	75/11–90/14

Note

● Never use a thread weighted #20 or lower. It may cause machine malfunction.

Memo

●The lower the thread number, the thicker the thread; and the higher the needle number, the thicker the needle.

■Ball point needle

Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur.

■Transparent nylon thread

Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle, regardless of the fabric or thread.

CAUTION

●Make sure you follow the needle, thread, and fabric combinations listed in the table. Using the wrong combination, such as heavyweight fabric like denim with a small needle

(65/9-75/11), may bend or break the needle. The wrong combination may also cause the seam to be uneven, the fabric to pucker, or the machine to skip stitches.

22

SEWING BASICS

—

2 SEWING BASICS

Please read before sewing

CAUTION

●To avoid being injured, watch the needle carefully while you are using the machine. Keep your hands away from moving parts.

●Do not stretch or pull the fabric during sewing, otherwise the needle may be damaged and you may be injured.

●Do not use bent or broken needles, otherwise you may be injured.

●Take care that the needle does not hit basting pins or other objects during sewing. The needle may break and you may be injured.

●Always use the correct presser foot. If you use the wrong presser foot, the needle may hit the presser foot and bend or break and you may be injured.

●When you turn the handwheel by hand, always turn it toward you (counterclockwise). Turning it the other way may cause the thread to tangle and damage the needle or fabric, and you may be injured.

●Do not start sewing without placing the fabric under the presser foot, otherwise the presser foot may be damaged.

Starting sewing

a Turn on the machine.

CAUTION

●Do not turn on the machine while pressing down the foot controller. The machine may start unexpectedly and cause personal injury or damage to the machine.

bRaise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up.

cSelect the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.

For details on selecting a stitch, refer to ”Pattern selection dial” (see page 11).

dAttach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch (see page 10).

e Raise the presser foot lever.

1

1 Presser foot lever

fPlace the fabric under the presser foot, pass the thread under the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine.

1

1 5 cm (2 inches)

23

gWhile holding the end of the thread and the fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching.

h Lower the presser foot lever.

1

1Presser foot lever

iSlowly press down on the foot controller.

 The machine starts sewing.

jTake your foot off the foot controller.

The machine stops sewing.

•You can use reverse sewing for back tacking and reinforcing seams by pressing the reverse sewing lever. Refer to “Reverse sewing lever” on page 12 for the details.

kRaise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise).

lRaise the presser foot lever.

mPull the fabric to the left side of the machine, and then pass the threads

through the thread cutter to cut them.

.

1

1 Thread cutter

Trial sewing

A trial piece of fabric should be sewn. Use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project, and check the thread tension and stitch length and width.

Changing the sewing	2
direction

Stop the machine with the needle in the fabric at the point where you want to change the sewing direction, and then raise the presser foot lever. Using the needle as a pivot, turn the fabric, lower the presser foot lever, and then continue sewing.

Sewing thick fabrics

■If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot

If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position.

CAUTION

●If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force, the needle may bend or break.

24

SEWING BASICS

—

Sewing thin fabrics

When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.

1

1 Stabilizer material or paper

Sewing stretch fabrics

First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric.

1

1 Basting

Stitching cylindrical pieces

Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs, or hard- to-reach areas.

aSlide the flat bed attachment to the left to release it.

1

1Flat bed attachment

With the flat bed attachment removed, free-arm sewing is possible.

Note

●When you are finished with free-arm sewing, install the flat bed attachment back in its original position.

bSlide the part that you wish to sew onto the arm, and then sew from the top.

Sewing with a twin needle (Option)

We have designed your machine so you can sew with this needle and two top threads. You can use the same color or two different colors of thread for making decorative stitches.

Twin needle

Extra spool pin

CAUTION

●Use only twin needles that have been made for this machine (part code: X57521-021:2.0/75 with a 2 mm width). Other needles could break and damage the machine.

●Make sure that the needle does not strike the presser foot.

●Do not sew with bent needles. The needle could break and injure you.

■Attaching the twin needle

Attach the twin needle in the same way as a single needle (see page 8–9). The flat side of the needle should face toward the back and the rounded side should face toward you.

25

■Attaching the extra spool pin

Put the extra spool pin in the hole on the top of the machine. Put the second spool of thread onto the extra spool pin.

1 First spool

2Second spool

■Twin needle threading

You should thread each needle separately.

Note

Models equipped with a needle threader

●You cannot use the needle threader to thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the twin needle by hand, from front to back. Using the needle threader may damage the machine.

aUse the thread from the first spool to thread the machine to the needle bar thread guide.

The path for threading the machine to the needle bar thread guide is the same as for normally threading the machine (for a single needle). See page 18 for more details.

bThread the left needle from front to back.

cUse the thread from the second spool to thread the machine to the thread take-up lever.

The path for threading the machine to the thread take-up lever is the same as for normally threading the machine (for a single needle). See page 18 for more details.

dThreadback. the right needle from front to

Do not pass the thread behind the needle bar thread guide.

3	2
1	2

1 Left needle thread passes through the needle bar thread guide.

2 Right needle thread passes in front of the needle bar thread guide.

3 Needle bar thread guide

eAttach zigzag foot “J”.

For details on changing the presser foot, refer to “Changing the presser foot” on page 10.

CAUTION

●When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

f Turn on the machine.

CAUTION

●Do not turn on the machine while pressing down the foot controller. The machine may start unexpectedly and cause personal injury or damage to the machine.

26

SEWING BASICS

—

gSelect the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.

For details on selecting a stitch, refer to ”Pattern selection dial” (see page 11).

Memo

●When using a twin needle, be sure to use a stitch width of 3 or less.

CAUTION

●After selecting a stitch, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

hStart sewing.

For details, refer to “Starting sewing” on page 23.

Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to each other.

CAUTION

●When changing the sewing direction, be sure to raise the needle from the fabric, and then raise the presser foot lever and turn the fabric. Otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

Thread tension

The tension of the thread will affect the quality of your stitches. You may need to adjust it when you change fabric or thread.

Memo

●We recommend that you do a test sample on scrap of a fabric before you start to sew.

■Correct tension

Correct tension is important as too much or too little tension will weaken your seams or cause puckers on your fabric.

2

1

	1	Surface of fabric
3	2	Back of fabric
	3	Upper thread

44 Lower thread

■Upper tension is too tight

Loops will appear on the surface of the fabric.

Note

●If the bobbin thread was incorrectly threaded, the upper thread may be too tight. In this case, refer to “Lower threading” on page 15 and rethread the bobbin thread.

2

1
3		5	1	Surface of fabric
			2	Back of fabric
	4
			3	Upper thread
			4	Lower thread
			5	Loops appear on
				surface of fabric

Solution

Reduce the tension by turning the upper tension control dial to a lower number.

27

■Upper tension is too loose

Loops appear on the back of the fabric.

Note

●If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded, the upper thread may be too loose. In this case, refer to “Upper threading” on page 17 and rethread the upper thread.

2

2 5

1

3	1	Surface of fabric
	2	Back of fabric

43 Upper thread

4 Lower thread

5 Loops appear on back of fabric

Solution

Increase the tension by turning the upper tension control dial to a higher number.

28