Top Flite CESSNA 182 SKYLANE Instruction Book

WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both

materials and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts
damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite’s liability exceed the original cost of the
purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no
liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final
user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all
resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the
buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

Top Flite Models

P.O. Box 721

Urbana, IL 61801

Technical Assistance - Call [phone]

CES6 V1.2.5

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

™

Entire Contents © Copyright 1994

INTRODUCTION........................................... 3

PRECAUTIONS ............................................ 4

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE EARLY

IN THE BUILDING SEQUENCE................... 4

Engine Selection........................................... 4

Flaps............................................................. 4

Operational Lighting ..................................... 5

Notes for Competition-Minded Modelers...... 5

Documentation ............................................. 5

Other Items Required .................................. 5

Suggested Supplies and Tools ..................... 5

Common Abbreviations................................ 6

Metric Conversions....................................... 6

Types of Wood.............................................. 6

DIE-CUT PATTERNS ................................7&8

Get Ready to Build ....................................... 9

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES ...................... 9

Build the Horizontal Stabilizer....................... 9

Tips for Making Wing & Stab Skins.............10

Build the Elevators.......................................12

Build the Fin.................................................14

Build the Rudder..........................................15

BUILD THE WING........................................16

Build the Center Section..............................16

Build Outer Wing Panels .............................18

Prepare the Polyhedral Braces....................20

Join the Wing Panels...................................21

Sheet the Bottom of the Wing......................22

Prepare the Wing Panels for the Flaps........24

Sheet the Top of the Wing ...........................24

Wing Completion.........................................25

Build the Flaps.............................................27

Fit the Flaps.................................................27

BUILD THE FUSELAGE..............................28

Build the Fuselage Bottom Frame...............28

Sheet the Fuselage Bottom Frame..............31

Fuel Proof and Paint the interior..................33

Install Pushrods and Servos........................33

Frame the Fuselage Top..............................33

Install Nose Gear Steering ..........................35

Install the Engine and Tank .........................36

1.20 Engine Servo Option ...........................37

Attach the Stab and Fin...............................37

Tips for Silver Soldering ..............................39

Complete the Fuse Top ...............................39

Mount the Wing to the Fuselage..................41

HINGE THE CONTROL SURFACES...........42

Hinge the Elevator, Rudder & Ailerons........42

FUSELAGE FINISHING TOUCHES............43

Assemble the Cowl......................................44

Fit the Cowl to the Fuse and Engine ...........44

Assemble and Install Wheel Pants..............45

Install Wing Struts and Fairings...................47

FINISHING ...................................................47

Final Sanding...............................................47

Fuel Proofing...............................................47

Balance the Airplane Laterally.....................47

Cover the Structure with MonoKote

®

...........48

Painting........................................................49

Draw Door and Hatch Outlines....................49

Apply the Decals..........................................49

Cockpit Finishing.........................................50

Install Control Surface Corrugations............50

FINAL HOOKUPS AND CHECKS...............51

Flap and Aileron Control Hookup ................51

Install Receiver, Battery, and Antenna.........51

Control Surface Throws...............................52

Balance your Model.....................................52

PRE-FLIGHT................................................53

AMA SAFETY CODE...................................54

FLYING.........................................................54

Balance the Propeller..................................54

Takeoff.........................................................55

Flying...........................................................55

Landing........................................................55

TWO-VIEW DRAWING.................Back Cover

2

TABLE OF CONTENTS AND BUILDING SEQUENCE

Your Cessna 182 Skylane is not a toy, but
rather a sophisticated, working model that
functions very much like an actual airplane.

Because of its realistic performance, the
Skylane, if not assembled and operated
correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself
or spectators and damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience
totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get
experienced, knowledgeable help with
assembly and during your first flights. You’ll

learn faster and avoid risking your model before
you’re truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop
has information about flying clubs in your area
whose membership includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the national Academy of
Model Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than
2,300 chartered clubs across the country.
Instructor training programs and insured
newcomer training are available through any one
of them.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free
phone number below.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

[phone]

Thank you for purchasing the Top Flite

GOLD

EDITION

Cessna 182 Skylane.

The Top Flite 182 Skylane makes an
excellent sport scale competition aircraft. Its
large size and accurate scale outline afford the
opportunity for the scale builder to

go all out

with
the surface details and finish. With the
abundance of Cessna 182s in airports around
the world, finding a full-scale plane to document
and duplicate for competition shouldn’t present a
problem.

The Top Flite Cessna 182 has demonstrated
flight characteristics rarely found in any scale
model. Anyone who has mastered a trainer with
ailerons should be able to fly this model
with a high level of proficiency from the first
flight. It handles very much like a full-size
Cessna—

smooth and predictable

. Our 11 pound
prototype was flown with an O. S. .61SF
2-stroke and 12 x 6 prop throughout much of its
flight testing. This combination provided more
than ample power for all normal flight maneuvers
and aerobatics.

Because of its 81” wingspan, the Top Flite
Cessna 182 is eligible to be entered at IMAA*
events. In order to be IMAA

-legal,

some of the
control components and hardware may need to
be replaced to conform to Giant Scale rules
even though

this

model does not require heavy

duty hookups.

The cockpit interior has been engineered to
be free of obstructions, servos and pushrods.
This feature provides the modeler with the space
to build a scale interior with front and rear seats,

baggage compartment, and full figure pilot.
Simulated Fowler Flaps allow beautifully slow
approaches and landings. Half flap takeoffs
require less ground roll to rotate and allow a
fairly steep climb over obstacles.

The nose of this model has been engineered
to allow you to completely hide most 2-stroke
engines in the recommended range. A Top Flite
2-stroke muffler with headers to fit several of the
recommended engines have been specifically
designed for and tested in the Skylane and other
Top Flite models. This muffler provides good
sound reduction while fitting entirely inside the
cowling. More information on the recommended
engines and related items can be found in the

Engine Selection Section

on page 4.

* IMAA is the

International Miniature Aircraft

Association

, an organization that promotes

non-competitive flying of giant scale models.

IMAA

International Miniature Aircraft Association

205 S. Hilldale Road

Salina, KS 67401

Please inspect all parts carefully before
starting to build! If any parts are missing,
broken or defective, or if you have any
questions about building or flying this
model, please call us at [phone] and
we’ll be glad to help. If you are calling for
replacement parts, please look up the part
numbers and the kit identification number
(stamped on the end of the carton) and have
them ready when calling.

INTRODUCTION

PROTECT YOUR

MODEL, YOURSELF &

OTHERS – FOLLOW

THIS IMPORTANT

SAFETY PRECAUTION

3

1. You must build the plane according to the
plans and instructions. Do not alter or modify

the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe
or unflyable model. In a few cases the plans

and instructions may differ slightly from the
photos. In those instances you should
assume the plans and written instructions
are correct.

2. You must take time to build straight, true
and strong.

3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in
first-class condition, a correctly-sized engine
and correct components (fuel tank, wheels,
etc.) throughout your building process.

4. You must properly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates properly
on the ground and in the air.

5. You must test the operation of the model
before the first and each successive flight to
ensure that all equipment is operating, and you
must make certain that the model has remained
structurally sound. Be sure to check external
nylon clevises often and replace them if they
show signs of wear.

6. You must fly the model only with the
competent help of a well experienced R/C pilot if
you are not already an experienced R/C pilot at
this time.

Remember: Take your time and follow
directions to end up with a well-built model
that is straight and true.

The prototype Skylane that weighed 11
pounds with all of the options, including flaps
and operational lighting, was flown with an OS

.61 SF. This engine provided excellent
performance and more than enough power,
even in gusty winds. Although larger engines

can be used to power this model, the extra
horsepower is not needed.

The included adjustable engine mount will
hold a range of engines from .60 2-stroke
through 1.20 4-stroke.

A special Top Flite header and muffler are
available that will fit inside your cowling. They
are primarily designed for 2-stroke engines
mounted horizontally, as used on our prototype.

Header for O.S .61SF (TOPQ7920)

Header for SuperTigre S61K, S75K

(TOPQ7925)

Muffler for above (TOPQ7916)

OPTIONAL FLAPS

This model is designed to incorporate
scale flaps; however, be assured that flaps are
optional and not necessary for an excellent
flying experience. The only difference is,
without flaps the takeoff roll is a little longer
and the landing speed is slightly faster.

The flaps are not difficult to assemble, but
they do require good craftsmanship if they are to
fit well. They add nicely to the model’s flight
characteristics and scale appearance while
causing no bad effects. Only slight trim correction
is needed when they are used with the
recommended throws. The flaps add drag and lift
to the model on landing approaches, which gives
the plane a very steady , loc k ed-in f eel.

ENGINE SELECTION

The recommended engine size range is as
follows:

.60 to .91 cu. in. 2-stroke
.90 to 1.20 cu. in. 4-stroke

The Cessna 182 Skylane will fly well with
any of the recommended engines. The
4-stroke engines and most .90 2-stroke
engines will turn a larger prop at lower rpm.
This is often desirable for scale realism. Many
.60 2-stroke engines produce about as much
horsepower as the popular .90 2-stroke
engines. Both are fine choices for the Skylane.
If you use a .60 2-stroke, a Schnuerle-ported
engine is preferred.

DECISIONS YOU MUST

MAKE EARLY IN THE

BUILDING SEQUENCE

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, can

provide you with a top quality kit and great
instructions, but ultimately the quality and
flyability of your finished model depends on
how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any
way guarantee the performance of your
completed model, and no representations are
expressed or implied as to the performance or
safety of your completed model.

PRECAUTIONS

4

If you plan to compete with the trim scheme
shown on the box, here are a few things
to consider:

The full-size Cessna 182 “Q” Skylane,
N735PE, that was modeled for this kit is
hangered near Birmingham, Alabama. The
182Q version was manufactured from 1977
through 1980. During this time 2,540 were built.
We designed our model from Cessna’s own
1979 3-view drawings for accurate scale outline.

If you plan to enter your Skylane in
competition, this kit will qualify for the Sport
Scale categor y without any changes. Always

work from photos of a full-size aircraft when
finishing your model because that is what you
will need for judging documentation. For
dimensional accuracy, the Top Flite Cessna 182
is exactly 1:5

1

¼3

scale.

❏ 4 to 6 channel radio with 5 to 7 servos.
❏ Engine (see page 4)
❏ Propellers (see engine instructions for

recommended sizes).

❏ 1 or 2 Pilot figures (1/5 scale recommended)
❏ Fuel Tank (Great Planes

®

12 oz. GPMQ4105

recommended)

❏ 3-1/4” Main Wheels (2) (Dubro 325T)
❏ 2-3/4” Nose wheel (1) (Dubro 275T)
❏ (2) 3/16” Wheel Collars (Great Planes

GPMQ4308 recommended)

❏ Top Flite Super MonoKote

®

(3-4 rolls, See

Finishing

section)

❏ Paint (see

Finishing

section)

❏ 24” Silicone Fuel Tubing (Great Planes

GPMQ4131 recommended)

❏ 1/2” Latex Foam Rubber Padding (Hobbico

®

HCAQ1050 recommended)

❏ 2-1/4” Spinner

(Top Flite TOPQ5405 recommended)

Optional:

❏ Fuel Filler Valve (Great Planes GPMQ4160

recommended)

❏ (6) Large Hinge Points (for flaps) (Robart

#309 recommended)

❏ Top Flite Header & In-Cowl Muffler (See

page 4 for more information)

Optional Lighting:

❏ Ram #03 Landing Lights (RAMQ2303)
❏ Ram #04 Rotating Beacon (RAMQ2304)
❏ Ram #14 Big Airplane Navigation Lights

(RAMQ2314)

We recommend Top Flite Supreme™CAs

and Epoxies

❏ (2) 2 oz. CA (Thin) (TOPR1003)
❏ (2) 2 oz. CA+(Medium) (TOPR1008)
❏ 1 oz. CA- (Thick) (TOPR1011)
❏ 6-Minute Epoxy (TOPR1040)
❏ 30-Minute Epoxy (TOPR1043)
❏ Titebond

®

Wood Glue (optional)

❏ Hand or Electric Drill
❏ Drill Bits: 1/16”, 3/32”, 1/8”, 5/32”, 3/16”,

13/64”, 1/4”, 15/64”

❏ Soldering Iron and Silver Solder
❏ Sealing Iron (Top Flite)
❏ Heat Gun (Top Flite)
❏ Hobby Saw (X-ACTO

®

Razor Saw)

❏ Hobby Knife, #11 Blades
❏ Razor Plane (Master Airscrew)
❏ Pliers
❏ Screwdrivers (Phillips and flatblade)
❏ Round file (or similar tool)
❏ T-Pins (short & long)
❏ String
❏ Straightedge with scale

SUGGESTED SUPPLIES AND TOOLS

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED

DOCUMENTATION

Three-view drawings and photo packs of
N735PE and other Cessna 182’s are available
from:

Scale Model Research,

3114 Yukon Ave, Costa Mesa, CA 92626

[phone]

NOTES FOR COMPETITION

MINDED MODELERS

The flaps require one extra channel, a
Y-harness, and two standard servos. They are
a highly recommended

fun option

for those who
wish to install them. More information on the
use of the flaps may be found in the “Flying”
section.

OPERATIONAL LIGHTING

We installed an operational lighting system
for added realism and scale appearance. If you
plan to use a similar system you should route
the wiring before enclosing the wing and fin.
In lieu of installing the actual wires, string can
be taped into position for use in pulling the
wires through the structure after covering. We
used a separate servo connected to the

retract

circuit of the radio (instead of “Y-ing” into the
flap servo) to operate the landing lights. The
rotating beacon and position lights were
connected to a hidden toggle switch. (See

Optional Lighting

in the next section)

5

❏ Nylon Strapping Tape

(required for bending sheeting)

❏ Masking Tape (required for construction)
❏ Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)*
❏ T-Bar Sanding Block (or similar)
❏ Chalk Stick (local drug store)
❏ Waxed Paper
❏ Thin Cardstock or a File Folder
❏ Lightweight Balsa Filler, such as Hobbico

HobbyLite

™

❏ 1/4-20 and 8-32 Taps and Tap Wrench
❏ Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol (70%)
❏ Auto Body Filler (Bondo

®

or similar)

❏ Dremel

®

Moto-Tool®or similar (optional)

*NOTE: On our workbench, we have four 11”
T-Bar sanders, equipped with #50, #80, #150
and #220-grit sandpaper. This setup is all that is
required for almost any sanding task. Custom
sanding blocks can be made from balsa for
sanding hard to reach spots. We also keep
some #320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper handy for
finish sanding before covering.

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN THIS
BOOK AND ON THE PLANS:

Deg = Degrees
Elev = Elevator
Fuse = Fuselage
LE = Leading Edge (front)
LG = Landing Gear
Lt = Left
Ply = Plywood
Rt = Right
Stab = Stabilizer
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)

”

= Inches

TYPES OF WOOD

BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD

Metric Conversion Chart

Inches x 25.4 = mm (conversion factor)

1/64” = .4 mm
1/32” = .8 mm
1/16” = 1.6 mm
3/32” = 2.4 mm

1/8” = 3.2 mm
5/32” = 4.0 mm
3/16” = 4.8 mm

1/4” = 6.4 mm

3/8” = 9.5 mm

1/2” = 12.7 mm

5/8” = 15.9 mm

3/4” = 19.0 mm

1” = 25.4 mm
2” = 50.8 mm
3” = 76.2 mm

6” = 152.4 mm
12” = 304.8 mm
18” = 457.2 mm
21” = 533.4 mm
24” = 609.6 mm
30” = 762.0 mm
36” = 914.4 mm

6

0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6" 7"

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180

Inch Scale

Metric Scale

7

1/4" X 2-3/4" X 15" BALSA

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

FIN TE

STAB TE

CES6S02

STAB TE

1 REQ.

CES6F04

1/8" X 6-5/8" X 19" PLY

NOSE GEAR

DOUBLER

1/8" X 6-5/8" X 19" PLY

CES6F03

3/32" X 3" X 21" BALSA

SIDE SUPPORTS

FIREWALL

WINDOW

FRAME

CES6F02

CABIN SIDE

TOP

3/32" X 3" X 18" BALSA

HORIZONTAL STAB

RIBS “S’s”

CES6F01

1 REQ.

SERVO

TRAY

2 REQ.

2 REQ.

CABIN SIDE

BOTTOM

DORSAL FIN

FORMERS

2 REQ.

CES6F08

1/8" X 5-3/4" X 19" PLY

SADDLE

WING SADDLE BRACE

1/8" X 5-3/4" X 19" PLY

STAB

CES6F07

TANK ROOF

1/8" X 5-3/4" X 19" PLY

CES6F06

GUIDE

1/8" X 5-3/4" X 19" PLY

FIN DRILL

CES6F05

INSTRUMENT PANEL

FUSE KEEL

2 REQ.

REINFORCEMENT

HORN

1 REQ.

1 REQ.

1 REQ.

8

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

1. Unroll the plan sheets. Re-roll the plans
inside-out to make them lie flat.

2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do,
figure out the name of each part by comparing it
with the plans and the parts list included with this
kit. Using a felt tip or ball point pen, lightly write
the part name or size on each piece to avoid
confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns shown
on pages 7 and 8 to identify the die-cut parts and
mark them before removing them from the
sheet. Save all scraps. If any of the die-cut parts
are difficult to punch out, do not force them!
Instead, cut around the parts with a hobby knife.
After punching out the die-cut parts, use your T­Bar or sanding block to lightly sand the edges to
remove any die-cutting irregularities.

3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate
them into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing,
fin, stab (stabilizer), and hardware.

1. Work on a flat surface over the plans covered
with waxed paper. Refer to the plans to identify
the parts and their locations.

The plans may be

cut apart if space is a problem.

2. Punch out both sets of the die-cut 3/32” balsa
ribs S-1 through S-7. There is a jig tab on the
bottom edge of each of these ribs. If any of these
break off, carefully glue them back on with a drop
of thin CA. Lightly sand any imperfections. You
may need to finish cutting the notch in the forward
portion of S-1 for the Stab Joiner (SJ) with a
knife. Use a pen to mark the extensions of the
bottom edge of the ribs across the fore and aft
ends of the jig tabs. These marks will help when
you trim off the jig tabs later.

3. The stab Trailing Edges (S) are die-cut from
1/4” balsa. Since some crushing may occur
during die-cutting wood of this thickness, they
are supplied slightly long and can be trimmed.
True up all edges of these pieces with a T-bar.

❏❏4. Cut the stab Leading Edges (LE’s) to

length from the 1/4” x 15” tapered balsa stock.

They should be about 1/4” longer than the length
shown on the plans for the stab LE.

❏❏5. Center the 1/2” x 5/8” x 9-3/4” balsa TE

Center Brace over the plans and pin it in place.

Use a triangle and pen to mark the inboard ends
of the Stab TE. Remove the TE Center Brace
from the building board.

❏❏6. Apply thick CA to one half of the TE

Center Brace, then align the inboard end of a
Stab TE with the reference line you just drew.
Glue the TE Center Brace in position. The TE

Center Brace must be centered on the Stab
TE. Repeat this operation for the other half of

the TE, then use long T-pins to pin the assembly
over the plans.

NOTE: Position the outboard ends of the
TE about 1/2” above the board. The TE
Center Brace should be raised about 3/8”.
(See next photo.)

FIN / STAB LE

Build the horizontal stabilizer

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES

Zipper-top food storage bags are a handy
way to store your small parts as you sort,
identify, and separate them into sub-assemblies.

Get ready to build

9

❏❏7. Pin the left and right S-3 and S-6 ribs to

the building board over their locations on the
plans. Adjust the height of the Stab TE to align it
evenly with the aft edge of the ribs. Glue the ribs
to the Stab TE and to the TE Center Brace with
thin CA.

❏❏8. Align and glue all of the remaining Stab

ribs to the TE.

❏❏9. Glue the two die-cut 3/32” balsa Stab

Gussets into the junction of S-6 and the Stab

TE. The Gussets should be centered between
the top and bottom of the ribs and Stab TE. Glue
the die-cut 1/8” ply Forward Stab Brace into the
slots in the S-1 ribs and to the inside edges of
the S-2 ribs.

❏❏10. Sand one end of two shaped balsa

Stab LE’s to exactly match the angle at the
center of the Stab.

Leave the outboard ends long

for the time being.

Center, then tack glue the
Stab LE’s to the forward edge of ribs S-1 and S­6 and to the Forward Stab Brace (this will align
the LE). Glue the remaining ribs to the LE,
checking for straightness as you proceed.

❏❏11. Glue both S-7 ribs to the Stab LE.

❏❏12. Glue the 1/4” x 1/2” x 7/8” balsa Stab

Sub TE to the aft edge of S-7 and to the side of
S-6. Make sure that the Stab Sub TE is
positioned exactly 90 degrees to S-6.

❏❏13. Tr im the Stab LE’s flush with the S-7’s.

Reinforce all of the joints with medium CA.

Sand the tips of the LE, sub TE, and TE flush
with S-7 and S-6.

❏❏14. Remove the pins, then lightly sand the

top surface of the stab frame to blend all parts
and remove any excess CA. Take care not to

change the shape of the airfoil.

HOW TO MAKE WING AND STAB SKINS

A. Wherever practical, pre-join the balsa
sheets to make a “skin” before attaching them
to the structure.

B. Many modelers like to sort the wood so they
can put the best wood with the most even
grain structure on the top of the wing and stab.

C. Make your skin larger than needed to allow

Lightly sand a bevel along the front edge of
the Stab ribs to match the sweep angle of the
LE. This will give you a better fit and a stronger
glue joint.

10

❏❏15. Make two 6”x 30” stab skin planks

from four 1/16” x 3” x 30” balsa sheets. From
these planks, cut four stab skins. See the sketch
for the proper layout on the wood. Refer to the
plans for the exact shapes and sizes, but
remember to make the skins slightly oversize.

❏❏16. Pin the stab structure to your building

surface using pins only at the tips and diagonally
under the LE & TE. Make sure that the jig tabs
are flat on the building surface. Don’t hide the
pins under the skin.

❏❏17. Use the off-cut 1/16” material from the

skin planks to make a 1” wide cross-grain strip to
fit between the S-1’s from the LE to the TE. Glue
the strip in place between the ribs, flush with the
top edge.

❏❏18. Test-fit the skins over the stab frame.

Make sure the skins meet flush at the center.
Adjust them with a sanding block if necessary.
Apply an even bead of medium or thick CA to
the upward-facing edges on one side of the
frame. Place a skin in its proper position and
press it firmly down until the glue has set.
Repeat this step for the other top skin. Trim off
the excess balsa, but save any big scraps for
use when making the elevators.

❏❏19. Remove the stab from the building board.

Tr im off the jig tabs with a sharp knife. Trim and
blend the LE and TE to the ribs as you did before.
Check all glue joints, adding glue as necessary.

❏❏20. Cut another 1” wide cross-grain strip

from 1/16” x 6” off-cut balsa sheeting and glue it
between the two S-1 ribs flush with their bottom
edges.

❏❏21. It’s important to get a good glue bond

between the stab frame and the bottom stab
skins. Apply a heavy bead of medium or thick

STAB SKIN

12-1/8"13"

13"12-1/8"

3"

STAB SKIN

for misalignment. On a large surface such as
the wing, 3/8” extra is suggested.

D. To make skins, the following steps
are suggested:

1. Tr ue up the edges of the sheets with a
metal straightedge and a sharp knife or a
“T-Bar” sanding block.

2. Test-fit the sheets together to make sure
they match well.

3. METHOD “A”: Edge glue the sheets
together with thin CA, over a flat surface
covered with waxed paper. A quick wipe of the
joint with a fresh paper towel will remove
excess glue and make sanding easier. Mark
the poorest surface to identify it as the “inside”
surface.

METHOD “B”: Edge glue the sheets

together with Titebond

®

wood glue. (Titebond
is easier to sand and won’t leave a ridge at the
seam, as CA is prone to do.) Smear the glue
lightly along an edge with your finger, then join
the sheets over a flat (waxed paper covered)
building board. Pin the sheets to the board to
hold them together. Wipe off any excess glue
before it dries.

4. Place the skin on a large flat surface
and sand it with a large flat sanding block and
fresh, sharp 220 paper. Use light pressure and
a brisk circular motion.

5. Tr im the perimeter of the sheet to even
things out.

11

CA to all of the

upward facing

edges on one side
of the stab frame. Place a skin on the frame and
hold it in place with your hands until the glue
sets. Repeat this for the other bottom skin. Be

careful not to bend or twist the stab during
this step.

❏❏22. Tr im off the excess balsa from around

the perimeter of the stab. True up the ends of
the stab with a sanding block. Round the LE of
the stab to match the cross section on the plan.

❏❏1. Cut two 1/16” x 3” x 30” balsa sheets in

half to make four 15” long sheets. Refer to the
sketch and the elevator plans, then glue the
leftover balsa “wedges” that you cut from the stab
skins to the 15” sheets. These joined sheets will be
used to make the top and bottom Elevator skins.

❏❏2. Use the pattern on the plans to cut four

Elevator skins. Sort the skins so that the best
surfaces will be facing outward, and on the top.

NOTE: Save time by building both
elevators simultaneously.

❏❏3. Cover the elevator plan with waxed

paper, then pin a skin in position. Use the “tic”
marks on the plan to draw the rib locations on
the skin.

❏❏4. Draw a line along the length of the skin’s

TE 3/8” in from the edge. Remove the skin from
the building board, then holding it along the
edge of your work bench, sand a taper from the
line towards the TE so that the TE will be
approximately 1/32” thick.

❏❏5. Locate the 3/8” x 3/4” x 11-5/8” shaped

balsa Elevator LE. Draw two lines, 1/32” in from
each edge, on one side of the LE as shown in
the photo. Use the lines as a reference to taper
the top and bottom of the LE toward the elevator
TE with a T-bar sander. Proceed carefully,

checking your progress against the height of
the elevator ribs at each location.

❏❏6. Glue the LE to the inside surface of the the

elevator skin, flush with the forward edge of the
skin. Glue the 3/32” die-cut balsa ribs (E-1 through
E-7) to the skin and to the LE with thin CA.

❏❏7. Test fit a 1/2” x 1” x 1-5/8” balsa Torque

Rod block between ribs E-1 and E-2. Sand the

ends, if necessary, for a good fit. Sand a slight
angle on the forward edge of the Torque Rod

3/8"

1/32"

3"

SCRAP

15"

ELEVATOR SKIN

Build the elevators

12

block (the one that will contact the elevator’s LE)
to match the angle of the LE. Glue the Torque
Rod block in position when you are satisfied with
the fit.

❏❏8. Carefully sand the top of the Torque Rod

block flush with the taper of the ribs.

❏❏9. Mark and sand the

inside

TE of an
elevator skin as you did in step 4. Apply a bead
of thick CA to LE, TE, and all ribs, then glue the
top skin into position. Hold the assembly flat until
the CA cures.

❏❏10. Tr ue up all edges with a T-bar or

sanding block.

❏❏11. Test fit the Stab, Elevator, 5/8” x 1” x 6-

1/2” shaped balsa Stab Tip, and the 5/8” x
27/32” x 1-9/16” balsa Elevator Balance Tab
together. Make any adjustments with light
sanding. Mark the

“break”

between the Stab and
the Elevator on the Stab Tip. Cut the Stab Tip
apart along this line.

❏❏12. Glue the forward balsa Stab Tips

in position.

❏❏13. Glue the Elevator Balance Tab flush

with the Elevator Tip. Center the Stab Tip on the
outboard end of the Elevator, before using thick
CA to glue in place. Make sure that both the
Elevator LE and TE are centered before the
CA cures.

❏❏14. Tape the elevator assembly to the Stab.

Make sure that the Stab Tip and Elevator
Balance Tab are flush along the outside edge.
There should be a 1/32”-1/16” gap between the
Elevator Balance Tab and the Stab. If not, use
your T-bar sander to correct the problem by
alternately sanding the inside edges of the
Elevator Balance Tab and the Stab.

❏❏15. When satisfied with the fit, use a razor

plane and sanding block to shape the Stab Tip
to blend with the Elevator and Stab.

❏❏16. Sand a radius around the Balance Tab

as shown in the photo.

❏❏17. Sand a radius around the outboard

edges of the Stab and Elevator Tip.

13

❏ 18. Tape the Elevators to the Stab making

sure that you have the correct clearance around
the Balance Tabs. Hold the bent 1/8” Elevator
Joiner Wire and Horn up to the Elevator and
mark the location of the Joiner Wire holes that
will be perpendicular to the hinge line (see the
plans for the joiner location).

NOTE: The Elevator Horn is off-center.
When looking at the top surface of the
Stab, the Horn will be to the right of
Stab center.

❏ 19. Drill 17/64” holes in the elevators for the

Joiner wire. Cut slots inboard of the holes to
allow the wire to be inset into the elevators, flush
with the LE. Sand the Elevator LE to a “V”
shape to allow for Elevator travel — refer to the
plans for the correct angle.

❏ 20. Test-fit the joiner wire into the Elevators.

Check to see that the Elevators align with each
other properly and that they fit the Stab without
binding. Make adjustments by removing the
Joiner Wire and then bending it, if required.

❏ 1. Cover the Fin/Rudder section of the plans

with waxed paper.

❏ 2. Punch out the die-cut 3/32” balsa ribs V-1

through V-6. Be sure to preserve their jig tabs.

NOTE:

If you plan to install an operational
beacon light on top of the Fin drill a 3/16”
hole through the center (front to back, top
to bottom) of each rib. This hole will
provide a passage for the wiring.

❏ 3. Cut a 15” length of the tapered 1/4” balsa

Stabilizer/Fin LE stock to match the plans
exactly, as the length of the LE sets the angle of

the fin.

Notice that the Fin LE fits into a notch on

top of F-8.

❏ 4. Punch out the die-cut 1/4” balsa Fin TE

and lightly sand the edges to touch them up.
Sand (or cut) the tips to match the sweep angle
as shown on the plans.

❏ 5. Sand an angle on the ends of each rib to

match the sweep angle of the LE and TE. Pin
ribs V-1 and V-6 to the building board over their
proper locations. Center the LE on the front of
the ribs and glue it in place. Center the Fin TE
on the aft edge of the ribs and glue it in place.

❏ 6. Put ribs V-2 through V-5 into their places

and glue them to the LE and TE. Remember, all
jig tabs should contact the work surface.

❏ 7. Glue the die-cut 3/32” balsa Fin Gusset

into the corner of V-6 and the Trailing Edge.

❏ 8. Apply extra CA+ glue to any joints that do

not appear to be well glued.

❏ 9. Blend the LE to match the ribs on the

upward facing (left) fin side. Sand the TE, if
necessary, to blend smoothly with the ribs.

❏ 10. Make a skin for each side of the fin using

1/16” x 3” x 30” balsa sheet. Leave excess balsa
on one edge of the skin so it overhangs past
V-1 about 5/8”; this will allow fitting to the stab
later. With the structure flat on the table, glue on
the left (upward-facing) skin.

30"

3"

FIN SKIN

Build the fin

14

❏ 11. Remove the fin from the building board

and trim off the jig tabs. Blend the LE and TE to
the ribs on the right side of the fin.

NOTE:

If you plan to route wiring for a
beacon through the fin, install a 15” length
of outer pushrod tube (not supplied)
through the 3/16” holes you drilled in step
#2. Glue it in position with medium CA,
leaving the excess tube protruding from V-1.

❏ 12. Use medium or thick CA to glue on the

right side skin. Be sure to get a good bond
between the ribs and the skin.

❏ 13. True up the edges of the fin sheeting with

a sanding block. Shape the LE to match the
cross section on the plans. Don’t trim the bottom
edge of the sheeting at this time.

❏ 14. Glue the shaped 3/4” balsa Fin Tip to the

top of the fin. Shaping should be done later, with
the fin taped to the rudder.

NOTE:

If adding a beacon light, drill a hole
through the top of the Fin Tip that aligns with
the wiring tube before you glue it in place.

❏ 1. Use one 1/16” x 3” x 30 balsa sheet to

make two rudder skins, using the rudder skin
pattern on the wing plan. You will need to edge
glue a small wedge shaped piece of sheeting to
the TE of the skin to provide the correct width.

You should have more than enough material left
over from the previous assemblies to accomplish
this step.

❏ 2. Pin one of the rudder skins to the (wax

paper covered) plans and draw the location of
each rib using the “tic” marks as a guide. Draw a
line the length of the rudder skin, 3/8” in from the
aft edge, as you did with the elevators. Remove
the rudder skin from the board and taper the aft
edge to 1/32”. Taper the aft edge of the other
rudder skin to 1/32”. (See next photo.)

❏ 3. Locate the 3/8” x 3/4” x 12” tapered balsa

rudder LE. Cut the tips to match the sweep

angle of the rudder. Lightly sand both sides of
the rudder LE to match the angle toward the aft
edge of the rudder.

❏ 4. Re-pin the rudder skin over the plans. Glue

the rudder LE to the surface of the rudder skin,
flush with the front edge, using medium CA. The
wide end of the rudder LE is at the bottom end
of the rudder.

❏ 5. Slightly taper the forward edge of the rudder

ribs R-1 through R-6 to match the sweep angle of
the rudder LE, then glue them in position over
the location lines that you drew in step #2.

❏ 6. Shape one end of the 1/4” x 1/2” x 1-1/4”

balsa rudder Torque Block to match the angle
at the intersection of the rudder LE and R-1.
Glue the Torque Block in position when satisfied
with the fit.

❏ 7. Remove the rudder assembly from the board,

then lightly sand the frame to blend all joints. Glue
the second rudder skin to the frame with thick CA.
To prevent twists, be sure that the assembly is held
on a flat surface while the CA cures.

EXCESS

30"

3"

Build the rudder

15

❏8. True up all rudder edges with a sanding block.

❏ 9. Position the rudder against the TE of the fin

with the top of the rudder 1/32” above the top
of the main body of the fin. Tape the fin and

rudder securely together with masking tape.

NOTE: Before proceeding, study the photo
at step 15 to see what you will accomplish
in the next six steps.

❏ 10. Test fit the 3/4” shaped balsa Rudder Tip

on top of the rudder. It should butt against the
Fin Tip squarely, and have a clearance gap of
1/32” above the fin. Make adjustments with a
sanding block if needed.

❏ 11. Use thick CA to glue the Rudder Tip to the

rudder. Be sure that everything is centered
before the CA cures.

❏ 12. Draw a center reference line across the

top of the rudder and fin blocks. A piece of
masking tape stretched across the center of the
blocks will help you draw a fairly straight line.

❏ 13. Use a razor plane and sanding block to

shape the top of the fin and rudder. For scale
realism, the Rudder Tip should be slightly
wider than the rudder. Apply 4 layers of masking

tape to each side of the rudder to prevent you
from removing too much material. The Fin Tip
may be sanded flush with the fin. Round off the
top 3/8” of both the Fin and Rudder Tips. When
the top is shaped and sanded, remove all
masking tape.

❏ 14. Draw a centerline on the rudder’s LE.

Sand a “V” bevel along this line with reference to
the plans for the correct angle. Hinging and
installation of the torque rod will come later in
the assembly process.

❏ 15. Sand a radius around the forward edge of

the Rudder Tip. Hold the fin and rudder together
to check the clearance between the Rudder Tip
and the Fin Tip. Continue sanding the Rudder
Tip radius until there is a 1/32” gap between the
two parts.

Okay, the tail feathers are more or less
complete, so by now you are on a roll. The stab
looks like the wing for a .20-size model, doesn’t
it? We’ll build the wing next so you’ll really have
something to impress your buddies when they
drop in to see “how the ol’ Cessna is doing.”

NOTE: The wing panels are built “UPSIDE­DOWN” on the plans. The jig tabs are
attached to what is, in the end, the TOP
surface of the wing. Since it is the standard
convention to show the Top View of the wing,
and the wing panels are built upside-down,
the LEFT wing panel is built over the RIGHT
Wing Top View and vice-versa. This does not
present any problems — just be sure to build
a left and a right wing.

❏ 1. Punch out all the die-cut 3/32” and 1/8”

balsa wing Ribs. Smooth out any imperfections
with sandpaper. Be sure to keep the jig tabs
attached to the ribs.

❏ 2. Punch out the 1/8” ply Doublers and Wing

Bolt Plates.

Build the center section

BUILD THE WING

16

❏ 3. Lay out both sets of balsa Ribs W-2 and W-

3, ply Doublers W-2B and W-2C, and the ply

Wing Bolt Plates exactly as shown in the photo.

This way you won’t assemble two right or two left
sides.

Glue the Doublers to the Ribs and laminate
the two pairs of Wing Bolt Plates with
30-Minute Epoxy. After the epoxy has cured, test
fit the Wing Bolt Plates into the slots at the aft end
of W-2 and W-3. Make slight adjustments to the
slots if required, but don’t make the fit too loose
as this is a critical area for a nice tight bond.

❏ 4. Attach the wing plan (the par t showing the

center section) to a flat building board and cover
it with waxed paper.

Cutting apart the wing panel

sections of the plan makes handling easier.

❏ 5. Locate the 3/8” x 3/8” x 20” basswood

Center Spar. Cut two 9-1/4” pieces from it. Pin
one of the 3/8” x 3/8” x 9-1/4” basswood Center

Spars to the plan using the method shown in the
sketch. The Center Spar is a little longer than
actually needed to allow for the dihedral angle at
W-3. It will be trimmed to size later.

❏ 6. Position rib W-1 and rib assemblies W-2

and W-3 on the Center Spar with the jig tabs
touching the plan. Be sure that the ply doublers

are facing the correct direction.

❏ 7. Insert (without gluing) the die-cut 1/8” balsa

Center Aft Spar into the slots above the jig tabs.
Insert the second basswood Center Spar into
the forward rib notches. Make sure that both
Spars are flush with the upper edge of the ribs.

❏ 8. Interlock the 1/8” die-cut ply Center LE with

the tabs on the LE of ribs W-3 and W-1.

❏ 9. Study the str ucture. Are all parts over their

respective locations on the plans and in
alignment? If not, lightly use fine grit sandpaper
to adjust the fit.

Don’t reach for the CA yet!

❏ 10. Make sure the W-3 ribs are flush with the

Aft Spar and the Center LE. Use the 1/8” die-cut
ply Dihedral Gauge on the inside of the W-3
ribs at the forward Spars to set the ribs angle at
this location. Hold a straightedge alongside the
W-3’s to check for straightness.

❏ 11. When you are sure that everything is

straight and true (sight down the TE and shim
any low ribs with folded paper under the jig tabs)
wick thin CA into every joint. Hold the LE and
W-3’s in tight contact for a few seconds to allow
the CA to work. Follow the initial gluing by
applying a fillet of medium CA around the joints.

Isn’t interlocking construction great?!

NOTE: Do not use any CA until step 11.

17