Top Flite B-25J Mitchell User Manual

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Wingspan: 88.5 in [2255mm]

Wing Area: 1036 sq in [66.8 dm

Weight: 17- 19 lbs [7710 – 8620g]

Wing Loading: 38 – 42 oz/sq ft [115 – 129g/dm

Length: 71 in [1795mm]

Scale: 1/9th (11%)

Radio: 8-channel, 13 servos

Hobby Services

3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1

Champaign IL 61822 USA

.46 – .50 cu in [7.5 – 8.0cc] two-strokes

Engine: .70 cu in [11.5cc] four-strokes,

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this

product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused

condition to the place of purchase.

To make a warranty claim send the defective

part or item to Hobby Services at the address:

Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information

as possible (daytime telephone number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed

description of the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of

the package the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.

WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free

from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty

does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modiﬁ cation. In no case shall

Top Flite’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Top Flite

reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Top Flite has no control over the ﬁ nal assembly or material used for ﬁ nal

assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from

the use by the user of the ﬁ nal user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-

assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

Top Flite Models Champaign, IL Telephone (217) 398-8970, Ext. 5 airsupport@top-ﬂ ite.com

doors on the full-size B-25 close both after the gear

has retracted and after it has extended (look at photos

of a B-25 sitting on the tarmac—notice that the gear

doors are closed!). But rather than duplicating the

full-size conﬁ guration (which would require a larger

radio with additional channels, air control valves on

every door, additional pushrods, linkages, air lines,

sequencers and considerable time, expense and

skill), and rather than abandoning functioning doors

altogether, we did it the “hard way” back in the shop by

taking time to ﬁ gure out how to incorporate operating,

scale-appearing landing gear doors that the average

SCALE FEATURES .......................................... 3535

Mount the Nose-Gunner Canopy ........................ 37

Install the Nose-Gunner Cabin ........................... 38

Mount the Top Turret & Machine Guns................ 38

Finish the Tail-Gunner Cabin ..............................39

Mount Side Gun Packs & Waist Gun Windows ...40

Mount the ADF “Football” Antenna ..................... 41

Mount the Propeller Hubs ................................... 41

Apply the Decals ................................................. 41

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY ....................... 41

Balance the Model (C.G.) ................................... 42

Balance the Model Laterally ............................... 42

ARF builder could both afford and assemble. The

Top Flite B-25 ARF features operating, spring-loaded

doors that use mechanical levers to open and close,

PREFLIGHT .......................................................... 42

Check the Control Directions .............................. 43

Set the Control Throws ....................................... 43

thus eliminating all the aforementioned paraphernalia

that would be required.

And while other scale details including the nose-

gunner interior, cockpit interior, tail-gunner canopy

Identify Your Model ............................................. 43

Charge the Batteries ........................................... 43

Balance Propellers ............................................. 43

Ground Check ..................................................... 43

Range Check ...................................................... 44

and machine guns are not exact replicas, these scale

features still “get the point across” with their presence

and stand-off accuracy. With all this detail also comes

the time commitment to put it all together, but in the

end we know it will all be worthwhile when you’re

executing slow ﬂ y-bys straight down the runway with

the ﬂ aps and gear extended and everybody else at

the ﬁ eld standing by watching.

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS .......................44

AMA SAFETY CODE (Excerpts) ......................... 44

CHECK LIST ......................................................... 45

FLYING .................................................................. 45

Mount the Wings ................................................. 45

Takeoff ................................................................ 46

Flight ................................................................... 46

B-25 Engine-Out Flying Procedures ................... 46

Single Engine-Out Procedures ........................... 46

The “Gold” B-25 is also a user-friendly model for breaking

Landing ............................................................... 47

down for transport and set up. Most modelers will simply

SERVO EXTENSION CHARTS .............................48

remove the outboard wing panels allowing the model to

ENGINE MOUNT TEMPLATES ............................ 51

ﬁ t easily into a mini van. If it’s still too big, the inboard

wing panels and vertical and horizontal stabilizers can

also be easily removed with the sturdy building stand

supporting the model during the process.

INTRODUCTION

For the latest technical updates or manual corrections

to this model visit the Top Flite web site at www.top-

ﬂ ite.com. Open the “GOLD EDITION ARFS” link on

the left side of the page and click on image of the B-25

that appears. If there is new technical information or

changes there will be an “Important! TECH NOTICE”

-scale B-25J Mitchell ARF. While no ARF model

Thank you for purchasing the Top Flite Gold Edition

1/9

will provide the level of detail necessary to take

“high-static” at premier scale competitions, you’ll still

be amazed at the level of detail and the number of

scale features included with this model! And we’ve

done our best to balance the level of authenticity and

box on the upper left corner of the page. Click on the

Tech Notice box to read the info.

detail with the requirements for simplicity that an ARF

modeler expects. For example, the main landing gear

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION ..................................................... 2

Scale Competition ................................................3

Academy of Model Aeronautics ............................ 3

IMAA ..................................................................... 3

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS .......................................3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE .............................. 4

Engine Recommendations ...................................4

Retractable Landing Gear .....................................4

Radio Equipment .................................................. 4

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED ..........................5

Hardware and Accessories ................................... 5

Adhesives and Building Supplies ..........................5

Optional Supplies and Tools .................................5

Covering Tools ...................................................... 5

KIT INSPECTION .................................................... 6

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS .................... 6

PREPARATION ....................................................... 9

ASSEMBLE THE WING PANELS ........................... 9

Hinge the Flaps and Ailerons ...............................9

Mount the Engines .............................................. 10

Hook Up the Throttle and Install the Fuel Tank ... 11

Mount the Main Landing Gear ............................ 12

Retract Installation ........................................... 12

Fixed Gear Installation .....................................13

Mount the Fiberglass Nacelle Covers ................. 13

Mount the Main Landing Gear Doors

(Retracts Only) ................................................14

Hook Up the Main Landing Gear Doors .............16

Mount the Cowl ................................................... 19

Mount the Replica Engines ................................. 22

Hook Up the Flaps and Ailerons ......................... 23

ASSEMBLE THE TAIL .......................................... 24

Hinge the Elevators and Rudders ....................... 24

Hook Up the Rudders and Elevators .................. 25

Mount the Nose Gear ......................................... 26

Hook Up the Nose Gear Door

(Retract Only) .................................................. 29

FINAL ASSEMBLY ............................................... 30

Assemble the Cockpit ......................................... 30

Hook Up the Air System ..................................... 31

Complete the Radio Installation .......................... 32

Mount the Inboard Wing Panels .......................... 33

Mount the Outboard Wing Panels .......................34

PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF AND

OTHERS. FOLLOW THESE IMPORTANT

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

1. Your Top Flite B-25J Mitchell ARF should not be

considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working

model that functions very much like a full-size

airplane. Because of its performance capabilities, the

B-25 ARF, if not assembled and operated correctly,

could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators

and damage to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the

instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as

doing so may result in an unsafe or unﬂ yable model.

In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from

the photos. In those instances the written instructions

should be considered as correct.

3. You must take time to build straight, true

and strong.

4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in good

condition and correctly sized engine and components

as speciﬁ ed in this instruction manual. All components

must be correctly installed so that the model operates

correctly on the ground and in the air. You must check

the operation of the model and all components before

every ﬂ ight.

5. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not

ﬂ own this type of model before, we recommend that

you get the assistance of an experienced pilot in your

R/C club for your ﬁ rst ﬂ ights. If you’re not a member

of a club, your local hobby shop has information

about clubs in your area whose membership includes

experienced pilots.

6. While this kit has been ﬂ ight tested to exceed

normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely

high stress ﬂ ying, or if engines larger than ones in

the recommended range are used, the modeler is

responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high

stress points and/or substituting hardware more

suitable for the increased stress.

Fax (765) 741-0057

Tele. (800) 435-9262

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

5151 East Memorial Drive

Academy of Model Aeronautics

ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS

If you are not already a member of the AMA, please

join! The AMA is the governing body of model

aviation and membership provides liability insurance

coverage, protects modelers’ rights and interests and

is required to ﬂ y at most R/C sites.

(or 11%). These

Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you

IMAA

(913) 823-5569

Salina, KS 67401

205 S. Hilldale Road

can do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby

are to avoid ﬂ ying near full-scale aircraft and avoid

ﬂ ying near or over groups of people.

IMAA

The Top Flite B-25 ARF qualiﬁ es as a “giant-scale” model

and is therefore eligible to ﬂ y in IMAA (International

Miniature Aircraft Association) events. The IMAA is an

organization that promotes non-competitive ﬂ ying of

giant-scale model aircraft. If you plan on attending an

IMAA event refer to the IMAA Safety Code at www.

ﬂ y-imaa.org under the “Sanctions” heading in their

site index. IMAA contact information is also available

in Model Aviation, the monthly newsletter magazine

from the AMA. The IMAA can also be contacted at the

address or telephone number below:

3114 Yukon Ave

Fax: (714) 979-7279

Costa Mesa, CA 92626

Bob’s Aircraft Documentation

Telephone: (714) 979-8058

e-mail: www.bobsairdoc.com

SCALE COMPETITION

The scale of this model is 1/9

ﬁ gures were derived from comparing the wing span

and fuselage length of this model to the wingspan and

fuselage length of the full-size. Though the Top Flite

B-25J Mitchell is an ARF and may not have the same

level of detail as an “all-out” scratch-built competition

model, it is a scale model nonetheless and is therefore

eligible to compete in the Fun Scale class in AMA

competition (we receive many favorable reports of

our ARFs in scale competition!). In Fun Scale, the

“builder of the model” rule does not apply. To receive

the ﬁ ve points for scale documentation, the only proof

required that a full size aircraft of this type in this paint/

markings scheme did exist is a single sheet such as a

kit box cover from a plastic model, a photo, or a proﬁ le

painting, etc. If a black-and-white photo is used, other

written documentation of color must be provided.

Contact the AMA for a rule book with full details. See

below for the AMA contact information.

If you would like photos of the full-size B-25J for

scale documentation, or if you would like to study the

photos to add more scale details, photo packs are

available from:

bicycle air compressor. The power cord may have to

be converted from a cigarette lighter connector to

alligator clips or something that can be connected

to your 12V battery. Connect Robart’s air ﬁ ller to the

RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR

compressor with a length of Robart air line.

Your B-25J Mitchell ARF may be assembled with the

included ﬁ xed landing gear or retractable landing

gear. If ﬁ xed landing gear is used, no additional items

will be needed to install the gear. If installing retracts,

RADIO EQUIPMENT

If ﬂ ying the B-25 with ﬁ xed landing gear seven

channels will be required; one channel for the

ailerons, one for elevator, one for each engine, one

for the rudder, one for the ﬂ aps and one channel for

the nose steering servo. The engines could be linked

with a Y-harness, but it is recommended to link the

throttles electronically via mixing in the transmitter.

retractable main landing gear (ROBQ1624)

Kit—includes pressure vessel, air line tubing,

variable-rate air valve, T-ﬁ ttings (ROBQ2305)

this model is designed for Robart pneumatic retracts.

Following is the complete list of items required to

install the Robart retracts:

❏ Robart #TFB25 Top Flite B-25J ARF pneumatic

❏ Robart #157VRX Large-Scale Deluxe Air Control

❏ #190 Air Line Quick Disconnects (ROBQ2395)

❏ Standard size servo to operate air control valve

Then, the throttles can be “decoupled” using a switch

on the transmitter for starting and tuning the engines

individually. It is also recommended to link the rudder

servos and nose steering servo electronically through

mixing in your transmitter so the nose steering servo

can be trimmed separately from the rudders.

If installing retractable landing gear eight channels

will be required, with an additional standard servo to

operate the air control valve.

(HCAR5500) will be helpful

™

Additionally, a hobby can of compressed air such

as Hobbico Duster

for cycling the retracts during assembly and setup

without having to connect the gear to the air control

valve, ﬁ ller and air tank before it is ready.

Regarding servos, the ailerons, ﬂ aps, nose steering

and air control valve may all be operated with standard

servos (such as Futaba S3003—FUTM0031). A

stronger ball bearing servo with no less than 50 oz.

in. of torque (such as the Futaba 9001—FUTM0075)

should be used on the elevator. Two mini servos with

a torque rating of at least 35 oz.-in. (such as Futaba

S3115—FUTM0415) are required on the rudders.

Note: Keep in mind that the standard servo

recommendations for the ﬂ aps and ailerons are the

minimums. Higher-torque, ball bearing servos could

An air pump will also be required for ﬁ lling the on-

board air tank when you get to the ﬁ eld and it’s time

be used for more ﬂ ight precision.

The following servo extensions and Y-harnesses were

also used in this model. See the diagrams on pages

to ﬂ y. The Robart Hand Pump & Gauge (ROBQ2363)

could be used, but will require considerable time (and

effort!) to ﬁ ll the tank. Instead, we recommend an

electric hobby air compressor (with a pressure gauge).

48-49 that shows where all the extensions are used.

What we use in our R&D shop is simply a small 12V

We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top

quality, thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but

ultimately the quality and ﬂ yability of your ﬁ nished

9. WARNING: Some of the parts in this kit are made

of ﬁ berglass, the ﬁ bers of which may cause eye,

skin and respiratory tract irritation. Never blow into

one of these parts to remove ﬁ berglass dust, as

the dust will blow back into your eyes. Always wear

safety goggles, a particle mask and rubber gloves

when grinding, drilling and sanding ﬁ berglass parts.

Vacuum the parts and the work area thoroughly after

working with ﬁ berglass parts.

model depends on how you build it; therefore, we

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

cannot in any way guarantee the performance of

your completed model, and no representations

are expressed or implied as to the performance or

safety of your completed model.

Remember: Take your time and follow the

instructions to end up with a well-built model that

is straight and true.

This is a partial list of items required to ﬁ nish this

model that may require planning or decision making

before starting assembly. Order numbers are provided

in parentheses.

ENGINE RECOMMENDATIONS

As speciﬁ ed on the front cover of this instruction manual,

the Top Flite B-25J ARF is intended for twin .70 four-

strokes or .46-.50 two-strokes. There isn’t much more

that can be said other than it is unnecessary (as well

as inadvisable) to overpower this model with larger

engines. Engines in the speciﬁ ed range will provide

more than enough thrust to ﬂ y this model in a scale-like

manner with plenty of extra power to perform evasive

maneuvers if the situation arises. Bottom line is with

two-stroke .46’s or four-stroke .70’s you’ll ﬁ nd yourself

cruising around at half-throttle most of the time.

parts (HCAR0667)

K&S #801 Kevlar thread or ﬁ shing Kevlar thread)

(See page 22)

❏ Curved-Tip Canopy Scissors for trimming plastic

❏ Non-Elastic String for stab alignment (such as

❏ 9/32" [7mm] O.D. K+S brass tube for fueling line

❏ Masking tape (TOPR8018)

❏ 3M 77 Spray Adhesive (MMMR1990)

❏ AccuThrow Deﬂ ection Gauge (GPMR2405)

(GPMR2400)

™

❏ CG Machine

❏ Laser Incidence Meter (GPMR4020)

❏ Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer (TOPQ5700)

COVERING TOOLS

A covering iron will be required for tightening the

covering on the model after it is removed from the

Sealing Iron (COVR2700)

Century

box. Following are the covering tools recommended:

❏ 21

Century Iron Cover (COVR2702)

Century Trim Seal Iron (COVR2750)

❏ 21

Micro Torch II

™

The Top Flite B-25 ARF is factory covered with

Top Flite MonoKote ﬁ lm. Should repairs ever

be required, following is a list of colors used on

this model and order numbers for 6' [1.8m] rolls.

(At some hobby shops MonoKote can also be

purchased by the foot.)

Flat Olive Drab (TOPQ0510)

Flat Dove Gray (TOPQ0511)

Flat Black (TOPQ0508)

Panel Line Pen—

White (TOPQ0204)

Note: The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine

thrust angles have been factory-built into the B-25.

However, some technically-minded modelers may

wish to check these measurements anyway. To view

this information, visit the web site at www.top-ﬂ ite.com

and click on “Technical Data.” Due to manufacturing

tolerances which will have little or no effect on the

way the model will ﬂ y, there may be slight deviations

between your model and the published values.

Engine Mount Hole Locator

™

or 4 oz. [113g] Aerosol (GPMR634)

❏ 1 oz. [30g] Thin Pro CA (GPMR6002)

❏ 1 oz. [30g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6008)

❏ CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)

assembling this model. These are long-handle Allen

wrenches that will be invaluable for mounting the

cowls and other the scale details.

❏ (4) 6" [150mm] extensions (HCAM2701 for Futaba)

❏ (2) 12" [300mm] extensions (HCAM2711 for Futaba)

❏ (5) 24" [600mm] extensions (HCAM2721 for Futaba)

❏ (1) 36" [910mm] extension (HCAM2726 for Futaba)

❏ (5) Y-harnesses (HCAM2751 for Futaba)

❏ CA Activator 2 oz. [57g] Spray Bottle (GPMR6035),

A minimum 2,000mAh receiver battery could be

used, but you will have to closely monitor the battery’s

capacity and voltage to avoid draining the battery

(TOPR1090)

❏ Pro 30-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6047)

❏ Milled Fiberglass (GPMR6165) -OR- Microballoons

❏ Threadlocker Thread Locking Cement (GPMR6060)

❏ #1 Hobby Knife (HCAR0105)

Ultra 4.8V 4,200 mAh sub C NiMH

™

charges. Following are two suitable battery packs:

❏ HydriMax

too far. A battery larger than 2,000mAh would be

more suitable and provide more ﬂ ight time between

7/64" [2.8mm], 1/8" [3.2mm], 5/32" [4mm], #29 Drill

and 4-40 Tap (or Great Planes 4-40 Tap and Drill

Set (GPMR8101)

❏ #11 Blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)

❏ #11 Blades (100-pack, HCAR0311)

❏ Drill Bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 5/64" [2mm], 3/32" [2.4mm],

battery w/Futaba connector (HCAM6321)

receiver battery w/Futaba connector (HCAM6335)

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

❏ HydriMax Ultra 4.8V 2,000 mAh AA NiMH receiver

(HCAR0755)

❏ Tap handle (GPMR8120)

❏ Soldering Iron or Hobby Heat

❏ Silver Solder w/Flux (GPMR8070)

❏ Denatured Alcohol for Epoxy Cleanup

❏ Plastic-Compatible Oil for Hinge Pins

❏ Rotary Tool and Cutting Bits (See Page 20)

HARDWARE AND ACCESSORIES

In addition to the items listed in the “Decisions You

Must Make” section, following is the list of hardware

and accessories required to ﬁ nish the B-25. Order

numbers are provided in parentheses.

TOPQ2510)

❏ Rotary Tool Reinforced Cut-Off Wheel (GPMR8200)

❏ Fine-point felt-tip pen (Top Flite

❏ Black Paint for Cockpit Interior

❏ Medium-Grit (220 – 320-Grit) Sandpaper

Tubing (GPMQ4131)

❏ 1/4" R/C Foam Rubber (HCAQ1000)

❏ 3' [900mm] Standard Silicone Fuel

❏ Ernst #124 Charge Receptacle

OPTIONAL SUPPLIES AND TOOLS

Here is a list of optional tools that are also mentioned

❏ Stick-on Segmented Lead Weights (GPMQ4485)

❏ Propellers (and spares) suitable for your engines

ADHESIVES AND BUILDING SUPPLIES

(GPMR8130)

in the manual.

❏ Epoxy Brushes (6, GPMR8060)

❏ Mixing Sticks (50, GPMR8055)

❏ Mixing Cups (GPMR8056)

❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039)

❏ Dead Center

CA and Epoxy glue are recommended.

™

In addition to common hobby tools and household

tools, this is the “short list” of the most important

items required to build the B-25 ARF. Great Planes

Pro

Foremost, a Great Planes Standard 3/32" Ball Wrench

(GPMR8002) and a Great Planes Standard .050"

Ball Wrench (GPMR8000) are virtual necessities for

REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST

Order Number Description How to purchase

Missing Pieces .................. Contact Product Support

Instruction Manual ............ Contact Product Support

Full-Size Plans ..................................... Not Available

Contact your hobby supplier to purchase these items:

TOPA1700 Wing Set

gun, 2-top turret, 4-external gun packs, (2) 4-7/8"

[125mm] waist machine gun barrels, (2) 4-7/8"

[125mm] tail-gunner machine gun barrels w/4-40

22. Top turret tandem machine guns

23. Nose-gunner machine gun

24. Top machine gun turret canopy

25. R&L side gun packs

26. Nose gear door

27. Nose gear wire

28. 2-5/8" [68mm] nose wheel

29. (7) 6-1/8" [155mm] machine gun barrels (1-nose

TOPA1701 Fuselage Set

TOPA1702 Tail Set (Fins and Stabilizers)

TOPA1703 Left Engine Nacelle Assembly

TOPA1704 Right Engine Nacelle Assembly

TOPA1706 Cowl

threaded inserts

30. Cockpit ﬂ oor (painted ﬂ at black)

31. R&L oil cooler air scoops

32. R&L waist gun windows

TOPA1707 Dummy Engine

TOPA1708 Tail-gunner Cabin

TOPA1709 Gunner Windows

TOPA1710 Wing Tubes

TOPA1711 Landing Gear Set

TOPA1712 Landing Gear Doors (All)

TOPA1713 Cockpit Windscreen

TOPA1714 Cockpit Interior

TOPA1715 Nose-Gunner Window Assembly

TOPA1716 Nose-Gunner Cabin

305mm forward and aft main wing tubes (2, one

end threaded w/nylon inserts), 22 x 295mm outer

panel wing tubes (2), 10 x 150mm outer panel

wing tubes (2, one end threaded w/nylon inserts)

33. Molded plastic ﬁ xed main landing gear blocks

34. R & L main landing gear wires

35. (2) 3-7/8" [98mm] main wheels

36. (2) 420cc Fuel tanks w/hardware

37. 30 x 440mm center main wing tube (1), 10 x

38. Elevator joiner wire

TOPA1717 Machine Gun Set (All)

TOPA1718 Fuel Tank

TOPA1719 Propeller Hub

TOPA1720 Decal Set

TOPA1721 Building Stand

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS

To order replacement parts for the Top Flite

B-25J Mitchell ARF, use the order numbers in the

Replacement Parts List that follows. Replacement

parts are available only as listed. Not all parts are

available separately (an aileron cannot be purchased

separately, but is only available with the wing kit).

Replacement parts are not available from Product

Support, but can be purchased from hobby shops

or mail order/Internet order ﬁ rms. Hardware items

(screws, nuts, bolts) are also available from these

outlets. If you need assistance locating a dealer to

purchase parts, visit www.top-ﬂ ite.com and click

on “Where to Buy.” If this kit is missing parts, contact

Product Support.

KIT INSPECTION

Before starting to build, inspect the parts to make

sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are

missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you

need assistance with assembly, contact Product

Support. When reporting defective or missing parts,

use the part names exactly as they are written in the

Kit Contents list on this page.

Champaign, IL 61822

Top Flite Product Support:

Telephone: (217) 398-8970

3002 N Apollo Drive Suite 1

Fax: (217) 398-7721

E-mail: airsupport@top-ﬂ ite.com

KIT CONTENTS

servo hatches

1. Fuselage

2. R&L inboard wing panels, inboard ﬂ aps, ﬂ ap

ﬂ ap and aileron servo hatches

3. R&L outboard wing panels, outboard ﬂ aps, ailerons,

4. Horizontal stabilizer, elevators, rudder servo hatches

5. R&L vertical stabilizer, rudders

6. R&L ﬁ berglass nacelle covers

7. Fiberglass engine cowls

8. R&L ply/balsa/hardwood nacelle assembly

9. R&L carburetor intakes

10. Replica engines

11. Main landing gear doors

pad, ammo boxes and tops (4)

12. Fiberglass tail-gunner cabin

13. Tail-gunner canopy

14. Nose-gunner canopy bottom

15. Nose-gunner window

16. Cockpit canopy

17. Nose-gunner cabin ﬂ oor, ammo tray, kneeling

mounting bracket

18. Nose-gunner cabin back

19. Tail-gunner cabin bulkhead, armor plate,

20. Pilot/co-pilot seat backs

21. Fiberglass ADF “football” antenna w/magnets

TOP TURRET

WAIST GUN WINDOW/WAIST GUN

SIDE GUN PACKS

CARBURETOR INTAKE

OUTBOARD

WING PANEL

TAIL-GUNNER CABIN

TAIL-GUNNER CANOPY

NOSE-GUNNER CANOPY

THESE ARE THE NAMES OF SOME OF THE SCALE PARTS

NOSE MACHINE GUN

NACELLE COVER

ADF

“FOOTBALL” ANTENNA

NOSE-GUNNER

CANOPY BOTTOM

AIR SCOOP

COCKPIT/COCKPIT CANOPY

OIL COOLER

INBOARD

WING PANEL

TAIL GUNS

❏ 2. Take out the hinges. Add a small drop of plastic-

compatible oil or a small dab of petroleum jelly to the

pivot point of each hinge. Work the oil into each hinge

by pivoting it back and forth a few times.

epoxy. Use a piece of wire to apply epoxy into the hinge

holes in both inboard wing panels and inboard ﬂ aps.

❏ 3. Mix approximately 1/4 oz. [5cc] of 30-minute

❏ 4. Wipe off any excess epoxy from the outside of

all the hinge holes (using your paper towel squares).

One at a time, apply a thin coating of epoxy to one

ASSEMBLE THE WING PANELS

HINGE THE FLAPS AND AILERONS

PREPARATION

PREPARE THE COVERING

During construction there will be several occasions

where epoxy cleanup will be necessary. Instead

to the airframe. Areas of covering that aren’t bonded

to the wood underneath—even if you don’t see any

wrinkles now—may loosen and form wrinkles later.

The best way to seal down and tighten all the covering

is to use a covering iron with a protective covering

❏ Take time now to thoroughly seal the covering

sock to go over the entire model. Push down on the

of wasting whole paper towels, stack three or four

paper towels on top of each other and cut them

into small squares. This will conserve paper towels

and the little squares are easier to use than whole

paper towels. For epoxy clean up dampen the

squares with denatured alcohol.

iron to bond the covering to the wood. If the covering

bubbles you may be using too much heat or leaving

the iron in one position too long. In some areas,

where the sheeting is soft and there is no supporting

structure underneath, the sheeting may bend inward

making it difﬁ cult to remove the wrinkles in those

areas. If this happens, use less pressure on the iron

or don’t press down at all. Note: This procedure takes

time. If you don’t feel like going over the entire model

all at once, start with the inboard wing panels ﬁ rst

and do the rest of the parts as you need them.

❏ 1. Test ﬁ t both inboard ﬂ aps to the inboard wing

panels with the large pivot point hinges. Make sure

the ﬂ aps ﬁ t well and pivot smoothly.

Note: The four-stroke template is for the O.S. Max .70

Surpass and the two-stroke template is for an O.S.

Max .40 or .50 two-stroke. Since the engine mounts

are adjustable, they should ﬁ t other engines in the

size range, but if you are using engines different than

O.S. the positioning of the mounts may have to be

rotated slightly to align the mufﬂ er with the mufﬂ er

cutout in the ﬁ berglass nacelle cover. If this is the

case, you’ll have to mount your engine to the mount

❏ ❏ 2. After the epoxy from the previous step has

hardened, use four 1/4-20 x 2" [50mm] nylon bolts

(indicated by the arrows in the photo) to mount the

left engine nacelle to the bottom of the left inboard

wing panel.

before marking the holes in the ﬁ rewall. Then, place

the nacelle cover over the nacelle on the wing panel

and position the mount (with the engine) so the

mufﬂ er ﬁ ts in the mufﬂ er cutout.

❏ ❏ 4. Once the engine mount holes have been

marked, drill 5/32" [4mm] holes through the ﬁ rewall

at each mark. Remove the template. Push 4-40 blind

nuts into the holes in the back of the ﬁ rewall—if

necessary, trim away any plywood that interferes with

the blind nuts.

❏ ❏ 3. Read the note following this step. Then, cut

out the left Engine Mounting Template (since we’re

doing the left nacelle ﬁ rst) from the back of the manual

for the type of engine you will be using—two-stroke

or four-stroke. Use tape or spray adhesive to hold the

template to the ﬁ rewall. Then use a sharpened piece

of wire or a large T-pin to mark the center of the holes

in the template into the ﬁ rewall.

side of each hinge. Then, insert the hinges into the

wing. When all the hinges are in, working quickly,

coat the other end of the hinges with epoxy. Then,

join both ﬂ aps. Do your best to wipe away any excess

epoxy. Move the ﬂ aps up and down several times to

align all the hinges. Set the wing panels aside and

allow the epoxy to harden.

❏ 6. Join the outboard ﬂ aps and ailerons to the outboard

wing panels the same way using fresh batches of

epoxy. Note that the ailerons use small hinges.

❏ 7. After the epoxy on all the hinges has hardened,

move the ﬂ aps and ailerons up and down several

times to get them moving smoothly and easily.

We’ll install the servos and hook up the ﬂ aps and

ailerons later.

MOUNT THE ENGINES

❏ 1. Use medium CA or epoxy to glue two 8 x 30mm

grooved nylon alignment pegs into the holes in

each engine nacelle. Be certain the peg indicated

protrudes above the base of the nacelle approximately

3/4" [19mm].

6" [150 mm]

SERVO EXTENSION

❏ ❏ 2. Connect a 6" [150mm] servo extension to the

throttle servo. (There are diagrams on pages 48-49

that show all the servo extensions that were used.) Cut

a piece of the 3/8" x 3" [10 x 75mm] black heat shrink

tubing in half and ﬁ t it over the connection between

the servo wire and the extension. Carefully shrink the

tubing with heat from a heat gun or a lighter.

❏ ❏ 3. Place the throttle servo in the mounting

location you will be using—if using the upper throttle

servo mounting location shown, the nacelle will have

to be removed from the wing. Use the mounting holes

in the servo as a guide to drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes for

the servo mounting screws that came with the servo.

Temporarily mount the servo with the screws. Then,

remove the screws and servo. Add a few drops of

thin CA to each screw hole, allow to harden, and then

remount the servo.

❏ ❏ 4. Hook up throttle using a 2-56 x 17-1/2"

[445mm] pushrod and a nylon clevis on the servo

HOOK UP THE THROTTLE AND

INSTALL THE FUEL TANK

Refer to this photo while hooking up the throttle.

The throttle servo may be mounted in either of two

locations depending on the location of the carburetor

arm on your engine. For most two-stroke engines, it

will be easiest to mount the throttle servo in the lower

location (the location in the bottom of the nacelle next

to the landing gear mount). For some four-stroke

engines (such as the O.S. Max .70 illustrated in this

manual), it will be easiest to mount the throttle in

the upper location (as shown in the photo). If using

the O.S. Max .70, the carburetor will also have to be

reversed to position the carburetor arm on the top.

If using the O.S. .70, remove the engine, reverse

the carburetor and carb arm, and then remount the

engine. However you decide to hook up the throttle,

make certain the pushrod will not interfere with the fuel

tank when it is in position later (you could temporarily

ﬁ t the fuel tank while working on the throttle).

™

❏ ❏ 5. Loosely mount the engine mount to the ﬁ rewall

with 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm] socket-head cap screws

(SHCS) and #4 ﬂ at washers. Adjust the mount to ﬁ t

your engine. Tighten the screws to pull the blind nuts all

the way into the back of the ﬁ rewall. Temporarily clamp

Engine Mount Hole Locator (GPMR8130) or another

method to mark the holes in the mount for the engine

mounting screws. NOTE: The 3/4" [19mm] screws

the engine to the mount so the front of the drive washer

will be 5" [127mm] from ﬁ rewall. Use a Dead Center

holding the mount to the ﬁ rewall are intentionally short

so they do not cut into the front of the fuel tank. Later,

when mounting the engine for the ﬁ nal time, you will

be instructed to add threadlocker to the threads of the

screws so they do not come loose.

❏ ❏ 6. Remove the engine from the mount and take

the mount off the ﬁ rewall. Add a few drops of thin

CA to the edges of the blind nuts in the back of the

❏ ❏ 7. Drill #29 holes at the marks you made in the

engine mount halves for mounting the engine. Tap 4-

ﬁ rewall so they won’t come out.

40 threads into the holes. Remount the mount to the

❏ ❏ 1. Center the throttle servo by temporarily

connecting it to the receiver with a battery and turning

on the radio with the throttle trim on the transmitter

ﬁ rewall and mount the engine to the mount with four

4-40 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS, #4 lock washers and #4

❏ 8. Mount the other engine to the right nacelle the

ﬂ at washers.

centered. Cut off the unused servo arms so there is

one arm remaining.

same way. Make sure you use the right engine mounting

template for marking the holes in the ﬁ rewall.

❏ ❏ 2. Connect the lines to the air cylinder. Rotate

the ﬁ tting on the down line as shown so it will be

easier to ﬁ t the gear between the rails.

❏ ❏ 8. Mount the left nacelle to the wing with the nylon

bolts. Fit the fuel tank into the nacelle. Then, install and

glue two 3/8" x 3-1/16" [10 x 78mm] plywood fuel tank

sticks from the laser-cut plywood sheet into the slots

❏ ❏ 3. Install the retract and guide the air lines through

the hole in the bottom of the panel, past the ﬂ ap servo

hatch and out root end of the panel—note that the up line

goes through the hole in the back of the nacelle ﬁ rst.

to hold the fuel tank in position. Note: Even though fuel

lines appear in a few of the following photos, there’s

no need to connect them until later after the cowl has

been mounted—the manual will instruct you later.

❏ 9. Return to step 1 and mount the engine, hook up

the throttle and install the fuel tank in the right nacelle

the same way.

MOUNT THE MAIN LANDING GEAR

RETRACT INSTALLATION

(If not mounting retracts, skip to “Fixed Gear

Installation” on the next page.)

Same as we’ve been doing so far, start with the left,

inboard wing panel.

❏ ❏ 1. Determine which color of air line you will be

using for the “up” line and which color you will be

using for the “down” line—the up line connects to the

ﬁ tting on the back end of the air cylinder and the down

line connects to the ﬁ tting on the front of the cylinder

that comes out of the side. Cut the up line to a length

of 21" [530mm] and cut the down line to a length of

18" [460mm].

ﬁ berglass nacelle cover and mounting the landing

gear, it will be easier to have the engine out of the

way. Remove the engine mount from the ﬁ rewall and

end and a brass screw-lock connector with a nylon

retainer and a 4-40 x 1/8" [3mm] socket-head cap

screw (SHCS) on the carburetor arm. Cut a slot in the

ﬁ rewall for the throttle pushrod. Bend the pushrod as

necessary to connect to the carburetor arm.

❏ ❏ 6. For installing the fuel tank, mounting the

set the engine aside.

is recommended—one for the vent/pressure line going

to the mufﬂ er, one for fuel pickup to the carburetor and

a third line for fueling/defueling. This setup will allow

fueling and defueling without having to disconnect

any lines from the carburetor and without having to

turn the model upside-down. To set up the fuel tank

this way, cut two of the aluminum tubes to a length of

1-3/8" [35mm] and leave the other, longer tube as-is.

Assemble the stopper assembly with the aluminum

tubes, bend the longer vent tube upward so it will be

at the top of the tank, and then cut the silicone lines

❏ ❏ 7. Assemble both fuel tanks—a three-line setup

to the correct length so the clunks will not contact the

rear of the tank. Connect the lines to the tubes in the

stopper and ﬁ t the stopper into the tank and tighten

the screw. Make sure the clunks do not contact the

rear of the tank; otherwise, they could get stuck.

Engine Mount

™

MOUNT THE FIBERGLASS NACELLE COVERS

Refer to this photo while mounting the landing gear.

❏ ❏ 1. If you haven’t done so already, remove the left

engine from the engine mount so the nacelle cover

will ﬁ t over the nacelle. Place the left ﬁ berglass nacelle

cover over the nacelle on the wing. Use a pushrod

sharpened on the end or a Dead Center

Hole Locator to mark the location of the three mounting

screws for the nacelle cover into the bottom of the wing.

❏ ❏ 2. Center the landing gear mount on the

mounting rails. Then, drill four 7/64" [2.8mm] holes for

the mounting screws. Mount the landing gear mount

with four #6 x 1/2" [13mm] Phillips screws.

❏ ❏ 3. Mount the left, main landing gear wire into the

landing gear mount using two nylon straps and four #4

x 1/2" [13mm] screws. Mount one of the main wheels

to the landing gear wire with two 5mm wheel collars

and 6-32 set screws with threadlocker on the threads.

❏ 4. Mount the other landing gear to the right inboard

❏ ❏ 2. Remove the nacelle cover. Drill 3/32" [2.4mm]

holes into the wing at the marks. Enlarge the holes

in the plywood mounting tabs in the nacelle cover

only with a 1/8" [3.2mm] drill. Use a long #1 Phillips

wing panel the same way. Add a drop of oil to both

sides of the wheels where they contact the collars.

screwdriver to temporarily mount the nacelle cover to

the wing with four #4 x 5/8" [16mm] Phillips screws,

#4 ﬂ at washers and #4 lock washers.

❏ ❏ 3. Remove the nacelle cover. Add a few drops

of thin CA to each of the screw holes for the nacelle

cover mounting screws. Allow the CA to harden before

mounting the nacelle cover back to the wing.

❏ ❏ 4. Holding the retract centered in the rails with

the strut retracted so it will be out of the way, drill four

7/64" [2.8mm] holes for the mounting screws. Mount

❏ ❏ 5. Use a rotary tool with a ﬁ ber-reinforced cutoff

the retract with four #6 x 1/2" [13mm] Phillips screws.

wheel to cut the one of the main landing gear axles

that came with the retracts to the correct length. File

a ﬂ at spot on the axle for the set screw that mounts

the axle to the strut. Mount the wheel with a drop of

threadlocker on the set screw. Add a drop of oil to

❏ 6. Mount the other retract to the right inboard wing

both sides of the wheel at the strut and the axle.

panel the same way.

FIXED GEAR INSTALLATION

❏ ❏ 1. Assemble one of the landing gear mounts

by using eight 3 x 12mm ﬂ at-head Phillips screws to

mount an aluminum mounting bracket to each side of

one of the molded plastic main landing gear blocks.

1/8"

[3mm]

BALL LINKS FOR REAR DOOR HINGES

DOOR HINGES

TYPE A TYPE B

(These are the hinges that are glued onto the gear doors.)

❏ ❏ 5. Use a single-edge razor blade to cut 1/8" [3mm]

off two nylon ball links—do your best to cut the ends

square. Drill the holes for the screw in the ball links the

rest of the way through with a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit.

❏ ❏ 6. Mount one of the ball links you just cut off

to a “TYPE A” door hinge and mount the other ball

link you just cut off to a “TYPE B” door hinge with a

MOUNT THE MAIN LANDING GEAR DOORS

(FOR RETRACTS ONLY)

If using ﬁ xed landing gear, skip to “Mount the

Cowl” on page 19.

❏ ❏ 1. Remove the nacelle covers from the wing panels.

❏ ❏ 2. Look at the photos on page 15 to see where

the door hinges are mounted. Use coarse sandpaper

to roughen the inside of the left nacelle cover where

the landing gear door hinges will go.

❏ ❏ 4. Re-mount the nacelle cover to the wing.

If you’ve mounted retracts, read the Hot Tip that

follows. Then, cycle the gear a few times to make

sure everything works. (If necessary, use a sanding

drum to enlarge the half-round notch at the front of

❏ ❏ 3. Use a hobby knife to scrape away the black

paint from the recesses inside one set of ﬁ berglass

main landing gear doors so the glue will adhere for

the door hinges.

The landing gear can be easily cycled with a can

of compressed air such as a Hobbico Duster. Cut

two 1" [25mm] pieces from the tube that comes with

the opening in the nacelle cover.)

the can. Fit the tubes into the ends of both air lines

❏ ❏ 4. Place the doors on the left nacelle cover. Use

masking tape to tape the doors together, and then

tape them to the nacelle cover.

coming from the wing that are connected to the

gear. Connect one tube to the Duster to extend the

gear and connect the other tube to retract the gear.

❏ 5. Mount the right nacelle cover the same way.

NACELLE COVER

GEAR DOOR

As best as you can, get the bases of the hinge

to lay flat on the door and on the nacelle cover.

Make sure the glue press up and fills the holes

of the mounts.

of each hinge base so glue will adhere. Test ﬁ t the hinge

assemblies to the doors and nacelles—each hinge

assembly should be in the location and orientation

shown. If necessary, adjust the length of any of the

ball links by cutting them shorter so the hinges will rest

❏ ❏ 10. Use coarse sandpaper to roughen the bottom

ﬂ at, or nearly ﬂ at, on the doors and nacelle.

❏ ❏ 11. Use epoxy mixed with milled ﬁ berglass or

micro balloons to glue each door hinge to the doors.

After the epoxy has hardened glue each nacelle

hinge to the nacelle.

❏ ❏ 12. After the epoxy on the door hinges has

hardened, remove the masking tape and open

the doors.

❏ 13. Hinge the doors to the other nacelle the

same way.

1/16"

[1.5mm]

BALL LINKS FOR FRONT DOOR HINGES

2-56 x 3/8" [9.5mm] screw, #2 lock washer and #2

ﬂ at washer. These hinges will go on the aft end of the

gear doors.

❏ ❏ 7. Cut 1/16" [1.5mm] from two more nylon ball

❏ ❏ 9. Snap the ball link balls of the nacelle hinges

onto the ball links on the door hinges as shown.

links. Mount each ball link to another TYPE A and

TYPE B door hinge. These door hinges will be for the

front of the gear doors.

❏ ❏ 8. Prepare two “TYPE A” nacelle hinges and

two “TYPE B” nacelle hinges by mounting an 0-80

ball link ball in the bottom hole of each hinge with an

0-80 nut and a drop of threadlocker on the threads.

3/8"

❏ ❏ 6. Remount the lever mount to the nacelle with

the #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] button-head screw. Fit a brass

bushing into the plywood bellcrank lever as shown.

Mount the bellcrank lever to the lever mount and the

nacelle with the #4 x 5/8" [16mm] screw. Tighten the

screw as much as possible without causing the lever

to bind.

[10mm]

❏ ❏ 7. Bend a hook on each end of the spring where

shown and cut off the excess wire. Connect the spring

to the bellcrank lever and the lever mount as shown—

there should be just enough tension in the spring to

pull the lever to the lever stop. Later, if necessary,

the spring tension can be adjusted by using another

notch in the lever mount. Move the bellcrank up and

down to make sure it moves smoothly with a small

amount of resistance from the spring. Make any

adjustments necessary.

❏ ❏ 8. Mount the nacelle cover with the doors

attached to the wing panel. Note: If the doors ever

require removal for repairs/servicing, do not pop off

the ball links. Instead, unscrew the 2-56 screws from

the ball links.

If necessary, trim

the lever here.

❏ ❏ 9. Test the “action” of the landing gear and

the lever mechanism by operating the system with

❏ ❏ 3. Use the other hole in the lever mount as a

guide to drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole into the nacelle for

the #4 screw that will hold in the bellcrank.

❏ ❏ 4. Remove the lever mount. Temporarily thread

a #4 x 5/8" [16mm] Phillips screw into the larger hole

you drilled. Remove the screw. Add a few drops of

thin CA to both screw holes and allow to harden.

❏ ❏ 5. Use medium CA to glue a 5mm I.D. x 12mm

O.D. thin, plastic washer to the front surface of the

plywood bellcrank lever. (Six washers are included in

the kit—two are for the levers on the main landing

gear doors, one is for the lever on the nose landing

gear and three are left over for spares.) The easiest

way to glue on the washer is to pick it up with a hobby

knife, apply a thin ﬁ lm of thin CA to it and place it

on the lever centered over the hole. Then turn the

lever over and press down over a piece of plastic ﬁ lm

(from a sandwich bag or leftover MonoKote backing)

or wax paper.

HOOK UP THE MAIN LANDING GEAR DOORS

❏ ❏ 1. Glue a 1/8" x 1/2" [3 x 15mm] hardwood

dowel lever stop into one of the lever mounts as

shown. The end of the stop should be ﬂ ush with the

other side of the mount.

Use this photo for the next 8 steps.

❏ ❏ 2. Hold the lever mount on the back of the

nacelle as shown—the outer edge of the mount

should be even with the side of the nacelle and the

top of the mount should be even with the bottom edge

of the nacelle (where indicated by the arrows). Using

the small hole in the right side of the lever mount as

a guide, drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole into the nacelle.

Mount the lever mount to the nacelle with a #2 x 3/8"

[9.5mm] button-head Allen screw.

❏ ❏ 14. Connect the outboard pushrod to the

bellcrank lever. Use medium CA to glue the control

horn to the door in alignment with the lever. Retract

and extend the gear by hand, adjusting the length

of the pushrod so the door will close when the gear

is retracted. Retract and extend the gear with air

pressure, making sure it works. Make sure the rear

hinge on the outboard door isn’t rubbing against the

wheel when the door is closed. If it is, you can use

a hobby knife to carefully trim down the other side

of the wheel around the hole for the axle to shift the

wheel over, or remount the rear of the nacelle cover

slightly over to the side—either of which will give the

❏ ❏ 13. The same as was done on the ball links for the

door hinges, cut 1/8" [3mm] from the end of two nylon

clevises. Make the outboard door pushrod using

the short clevises and complete the inboard pushrod

using another regular clevis and the hardware shown.

Do not install the nylon retainer on the brass screw-

lock pushrod connector until instructed to do so later.

hinge and wheel more clearance.

about 1/2" [13mm] from the end as shown.

❏ ❏ 15. Make one more bend in the inboard pushrod

mounting base of two small nylon control horns

compressed air. Make sure the gear locks at both

ends—up and down. It may be necessary to slightly

trim the lever to allow the landing gear strut to move

freely. If necessary, remove the lever, trim, reinstall

and test.

(shown in the photo to the right).

❏ ❏ 10. Use coarse sandpaper to roughen the

2-1/2"

[65mm]

3/8"

[10mm]

INBOARD DOOR PUSHROD

part of the threaded end and part of the unthreaded

end of a 4" [100mm] pushrod as shown above.

❏ ❏ 11. Make an inboard door pushrod ﬁ rst by cutting

pushrod as shown.

❏ ❏ 12. Use the sketch as a template to bend the

Retract and Door Adjustments:

If the retracts don’t retract or extend all the way or

if the doors don’t fully close, following is a list of

possible problems and solutions:

❏ ❏ 17. Temporarily disconnect the outboard pushrod

from the bellcrank lever. Retract the gear by hand

and close the door. With the door closed, lock the

pushrod to the screw-lock connector with a 4-40 x 1/8"

[3mm] SHCS.

Shorten the pushrods in small increments.

❏ A. One or both pushrods may be too long.

❏ ❏ 18. Extend the gear and open the door by

❏ B. One or both pushrods may be too short

not allowing the gear to retract fully. Lengthen

the pushrods.

hand. Reconnect the outboard pushrod and cycle

the gear with compressed air—both with the nacelle

upside-down and upright. Make sure both doors

open and close and that the retract locks in both the

retracted and extend positions. Make any necessary

adjustments as described below to get the gear and

❏ C. There may be too much or not enough

tension in the spring. Move the spring to a different

setting on the lever mount.

❏ D. There may be too much friction in the retract

unit, not allowing it to operate freely and all the

way. Lightly oil moving parts in the retract unit.

doors operating correctly.

❏ 19. Mount and hook up the doors on the right

inboard wing panel the same way. Keep the left panel

nearby so it can be used as a reference.

❏ 20. Once you get both doors operating correctly

❏ E. Some of the parts in the door mechanism

may be binding. Isolate moving parts and ﬁ nd

out if any are too tight (ball links on ball link balls,

clevises, screw-lock pushrod connector in inboard

door, screw holding in bellcrank lever.)

❏ F. The clevis on the inboard pushrod that is

connected to the lever may be interfering with the

and reliably, snap a nylon retainer onto both screw-

lock connectors on the horns on the inboard doors.

inboard pushrod. Bend the inboard pushrod as

necessary to clear the clevis on the other side of

the lever.

❏ G. There may not be enough air pressure to fully

retract the gear—compressed air cans advertised

as “dusters” typically put out approximately 90-

100psi, but your can may be too low. 60-80psi

should be adequate for fully retracting the gear—

less for extending gear.

❏ H. You may be extending or retracting the gear

too slowly. A little momentum and a mild “slam”

will help the strut and doors extend and retract all

the way.

❏ ❏ 16. Connect the inboard pushrod to the other

end of the plywood lever. Use medium CA to glue

the horn to the inboard door. In the top-view photo,

note how the horn is slightly ahead of the lever so the

pushrods will not interfere when the door closes.

❏ ❏ 6. Mount the nacelle cover to the wing panel.

Use two 4-40 x 3/8" [9.5mm] Phillips screws, #4 lock

❏ ❏ 4. Use a 4-40 x 3/8" [9.5mm] Phillips screw and

two #4 washers to pull 4-40 blind nuts into the back of

washers and ﬂ at washers to mount each cowl mounting

tab to the front of the ﬁ rewall—the short “B” tabs go on

the sides of the ﬁ rewall and the long “A” tabs go on the

each hole just drilled in the ﬁ rewall. Use epoxy to glue

in the blind nuts as they go in or use a few drops of

thin or medium CA to glue in the blind nuts after they

top and bottom of the ﬁ rewall. The “A” tab with the blind

are all the way in.

nut goes on top of the wing and the blind nut goes

toward the back. Note: Do not tighten the screws all

the way so the tabs will be allowed to “ﬂ oat.”

❏ ❏ 7. Mount three more 4-40 blind nuts into the

three large holes in one side of one of the cowl

rings and glue them in—note that one of the holes

is smaller than the other three—do not mount a blind

nut into that small hole.

❏ ❏ 5. Note that there are two different plywood

cowl mounting tabs—long ones (“A”) and short

ones (“B”). One of the longer, “A” tabs has a larger

hole in the top. Press a 4-40 blind nut into the larger

hole of that “A” tab.

MOUNT THE COWL

❏ ❏ 1. Take a few minutes to study how the cowl

is mounted in the following photos. The cowl is

mounted via a cowl ring which is permanently glued

in the cowl. The cowl ring is attached to removable

cowl mounting tabs with 4-40 x 1/2" SHCS—three

of the cowl mounting screws are accessible from

behind the cowl and the fourth one on the top of the

cowl is accessible through the front. (Otherwise, the

carburetor intake would have to be removed just to

remove the cowl.) Each cowl mounting tab is attached

to the ﬁ rewall with two 4-40 x 3/8" [9.5mm] Phillips

screws and blind nuts. The cowl mounting tabs are

removable so that the ﬁ berglass nacelle cover can be

removed to access components in the nacelle.

❏ ❏ 2. Disconnect the retract door pushrods and remove

the nacelle cover from the left, inboard wing panel.

at the eight precut marks for the cowl mounting tabs.

IMPORTANT!: Use care NOT to drill into the fuel tank

❏ ❏ 3. Drill 5/32" [4mm] holes through the ﬁ rewall

when drilling through the bottom two holes!

ﬁ tting the cowl later.

III. A 3/32" ball driver will be indispensable when

IV. Curved and ﬂ at hobby ﬁ les.

Tools For Cutting Fiberglass

plywood with sandpaper glued on.

carbide cutter is best for making initial cuts.

Abrasive drum sanders work well for “ﬁ ne-

tuning.”

V. Various cutting bits for your rotary tool—the

exhaust fan that will draw ﬁ berglass dust away is

best. If possible, cutting ﬁ berglass outdoors may

Always wear eye and respiratory protection.

There are several ﬁ berglass parts on this model. A

few of them will require cutting and trimming to end up

with the best ﬁ t. Follow these warnings and use the

suggested tools for working safely with ﬁ berglass.

A. Do not be casual when working with ﬁ berglass.

B. Work in a well-ventilated area—working under an

also be a good idea.

VI. A small sanding board made from a piece of

C. Wear a long-sleeve shirt when cutting ﬁ berglass.

smooth rough edges.

VII. Small sheets of medium-grit sandpaper to

protection is recommended.

D. If using a high-speed rotary tool, hearing

❏ ❏ 11. Retrieve your ﬁ berglass cutting tools and

safety equipment. Cut one of the ﬁ berglass engine

cowls to ﬁ t over the engine—it doesn’t matter which

of the two cowls you choose because they are both

the same. Cutting the hole is basically a trial-and-error

process where you cut-and-ﬁ t and cut-and-ﬁ t the cowl

until it goes over the engine. If using a 4-stroke, the

cowl ﬁ tting procedure will be easier if the valve cover

is temporarily removed. If using a 2-stroke the cowl

will be easier to ﬁ t if the head is temporarily removed.

This will allow the cowl to ﬁ t without having to ﬁ nalize

the exact size, shape and location of the cutout until

after the cowl has been permanently mounted. Start

by trying to ﬁ t the cowl over the engine as far as it

will go. Use a ﬁ ne-point felt-tip pen or a lead pencil

to mark the inside of the cowl in the approximate

location where the engine will stick out.

ink can be removed with a paper towel and

denatured alcohol.)

E. Following are the best tools for cutting ﬁ berglass:

I. A rotary tool.

II. A ﬁ ne-point, felt-tip pen for marking. (Afterward,

❏ ❏ 8. Mount the cowl ring to the cowl mounting

tabs with four 4-40 x 1/2" SHCS, #4 lock washers and

#4 ﬂ at washers. Note that the top screw goes in from

the front, but the other three go in through the back. A

3/32" ball end hex wrench (GPMR8002) is virtually a

must from here on out. Once the cowl ring has been

fastened to all the tabs, go ahead and tighten up the

screws holding the tabs to the ﬁ rewall.

the mufﬂ er. Trim the cowl ring as necessary until you

can get the mufﬂ er to ﬁ t.

❏ ❏ 9. Mount the engine mount and engine without

ready to start cutting ﬁ berglass and read the Hot Tip

❏ ❏ 10. Remove the mufﬂ er from the engine. Get

below that lists recommended tools, working tips and

safety warnings for cutting ﬁ berglass.

position, place a propeller on the engine and position

the cowl so it looks best—due to the out thrust and

down thrust of the engine, a compromise will have to

be made between centering the propeller in the cowl

and aligning the cowl with the nacelle cover—if the

propeller was centered in the front of the cowl, the

outward and downward angle of the cowl wouldn’t

look right. If the cowl were aligned perfectly with the

nacelle the propeller would be too far off center in the

cowl. Look at the cowl from different angles and get it

positioned where it looks best.

joiner tubes—no need to use the screws to secure

the tubes in the wing panel at this time. Counter-

weight made from bags of shot or something similar

will be needed on the tubes coming out of the right

side of the fuselage.

❏ ❏ 15. Use medium-grit sandpaper to roughen the

inside of the cowl all the way around where the cowl

ring will go.

❏ ❏ 18. Once satisﬁ ed with the position of the cowl,

use medium CA and accelerator to tack glue the cowl

to the cowl ring in about four or six different spots.

❏ ❏ 19. Without accidentally breaking the cowl ring

free from the cowl, use your 3/32" ball-end hex wrench

to loosen the screws and carefully remove the cowl

from the nacelle. Use 30-minute epoxy mixed with

milled ﬁ berglass or microballoons to securely glue

the cowl ring to the cowl with a small ﬁ llet all the way

around both sides.

❏ ❏ 16. Test ﬁ t the left, ﬁ berglass carburetor

intake to the top of the wing. Make any adjustments

necessary for a good ﬁ t. Then, drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes

into the wing through the holes in the intake. Mount

the carburetor intake to the wing with eight #2 x 3/8"

[9.5mm] button-head Allen screws.

❏ ❏ 20. Cut a small, rounded slot in the top of the

cowl to accommodate the ball-end hex wrench to

access the top cowl mounting screw. Access through

this slot will be necessary after the replica engine has

been installed.

❏ ❏ 17. Trim the top of the cowl as necessary to

accommodate the intake. With the intake and cowl in

❏ ❏ 12. Using the marks inside the cowl as a guide,

use your rotary tool with a carbide cutter to cut a

rough, undersize starter hole in the cowl. See if

you can ﬁ t the cowl over the engine. Continue ﬁ tting

and cutting the cowl until you can get it into position

over the head and the cowl ring—cut only as much as

needed to get the cowl over the engine—ﬁ nal cutting

and trimming will be done later after the cowl and

cowl ring have been permanently joined.

place the fuselage in the building stand. Then, ﬁ t the

❏ ❏ 13. If you haven’t yet done so, assemble the

building stand that came with this kit by using epoxy

or white glue to glue the plastic tubes into the foam

cradles. Apply the foam cushion strips to the front and

back of both cradles where they support the fuselage.

inboard wing panel to the fuselage with the aluminum

❏ ❏ 14. Once you can get the cowl over the engine,

MOUNT THE REPLICA ENGINE

from a balsa block (not supplied) and a 9/32" [7mm]

O.D. K+S brass tube. Sharpen the end of the tube,

and then use it to cut a hole through the balsa block.

Round the top of the block to ﬁ t the inside of the cowl.

Glue a 1/4" [6mm] piece of the brass tube into the

balsa block so it sticks out the rounded side of the

block 1/32" [.5mm].

❏ ❏ 1. Sand all the way around the edge of one of the

replica engines so glue will adhere. Sand the inside of

the cowl where the engine will be glued as well.

❏ ❏ 25. Cut a 9/32" [7mm] hole in the cowl where you

want the fueling line to come out. Use epoxy mixed

with microballoons to glue the block into position.

❏ ❏ 2. Use curved-tip plastic-cutting scissors or your

rotary tool to cut out two cylinders of the replica engine.

❏ ❏ 26. Connect 8" [200mm] of silicone fuel tubing

(not included) to the ﬁ ll line coming from the fuel tank.

When mounting the cowl later, guide the ﬁ lling line

through the brass tube in the cowl. After fueling the

❏ ❏ 3. Carefully twist a hobby knife into the plastic

making small holes for the wire replica pushrods. Fit

model at the ﬁ eld, close the line with an aluminum

fuel line plug. Then, push the line back into the tube.

❏ 27. Mount the right cowl the same way.

Now it’s time to ﬁ nalize the engine cutout and

make the cutout for the mufﬂ er.

❏ ❏ 21. Mount the mufﬂ er to the engine. Repeat

the cut-and-ﬁ t procedure to cut out the cowl for the

mufﬂ er. Proceed slowly, cutting a little at a time and

test ﬁ tting the cowl often as you proceed.

ﬁ t around the engine and mufﬂ er, use a rotary tool

with a sanding drum to make any ﬁ nal cuts so there

will be adequate clearance around the engine and

mufﬂ er and so the cutouts look good with smooth

lines, straight edges and nicely-rounded corners. You

can also make additional cutouts for cooling air where

necessary. Final-sand all the openings with 320-grit

❏ ❏ 22. Now that the cowl has been rough-cut to

or 400-grit sandpaper.

❏ ❏ 23. Cut any other holes necessary for the needle

valve, low-speed needle adjustment screw, glow plug

igniter, fuel ﬁ lling, etc.

manual, make a fuel line mount for the fuel ﬁ lling line

❏ ❏ 24. To duplicate the fueling system shown in this

6" [150 mm]

SERVO EXTENSION

❏ 3. Connect a 6" [150mm] servo extension to

each aileron servo. (Refer to the “Servo Extensions”

sketches in the back of the manual for full diagrams

of what servo extensions and Y-harnesses are used.)

Same as the throttle servos, secure the connection

with 1-1/2" [40mm] pieces of heat shrink tubing.

LEFT WING

enlarged for clarity.

The hatches have been

RIGHT WING

❏ 4. Noting the orientation of the servo hatches in the

bottom of the wing, place the servo hatches with the

servos in the respective wing panels—be certain the

screws that hold on the servo arms are in all the servos!

Use the strings in the wings to guide the servo wires

out the ends of the panels—or just drop them down

through the holes while holding the wings on-end.

❏ 5. Prepare for making the ﬂ ap and aileron pushrods

by reading the following “Hot Tip” on how to solder.

Then, gather your soldering equipment.

HOOK UP THE FLAPS AND AILERONS

the pushrods into the holes. Then, use medium CA to

glue the pushrods in.

❏ ❏ 4. Fit the replica engine in the cowl and align the

two missing cylinders with the cutout for the engine.

Level the replica engine inside the front of the cowl,

double-check the alignment, and then use thin CA

to carefully glue the replica engine into position. Use

care not to use too much CA which could run onto the

❏ ❏ 5. If necessary, cut a hole in the top of the

replica engine in alignment with the slot in the top of

outside of the cowl.

the cowl for the 3/32" Allen wrench.

❏ 1. Retrieve your ﬂ ap and aileron servos. Center

each servo by connecting it to the receiver, centering

the trims on the transmitter, and then turning on the

transmitter and receiver. Once you ﬁ nd the servo arm

that’s 90-degrees, cut off the rest.

❏ 2. Mount the servos to the mounting blocks on each

of the six hatches by using the holes in the servos as

guides for drilling 1/16" [1.6mm] holes into the servo

blocks. Temporarily mount the servos with the screws

that came with them, remove the screws and servos,

❏ ❏ 6. Take the drive washer off the engine. If

necessary, enlarge the hole in the front of the replica

engine so the cowl will go over the engine. Mount

the cowl to the nacelle and put the drive washer

back on. If you prefer not to remove the drive washer

for installing the cowl, the hole in the middle of the

replica engine will have to be enlarged even more.

Similarly, if you install the valve cover on the engine

after you install the cowl, the hole in the cowl for the

❏ 7. Mount the other replica engine in the other cowl

engine can remain small.

the same way.

and then harden each hole with a few drops of thin CA.

Allow the CA to harden. Then, remount the servos.

ASSEMBLE THE TAIL

HINGE THE ELEVATORS AND RUDDERS

❏ 1. Use 30-minute epoxy to hinge the rudders to the

vertical stabilizers. Be certain the mounting points in

the rudders for mounting the control horns are on the

bottom and also make sure the rudders aren’t pushed

too close up to the vertical stabilizers. Otherwise,

control throw may be limited. Set the rudders aside

while working on the elevators.

❏ 6. Hook up the ﬂ aps and ailerons using the

hardware shown. For the ﬂ aps, note that when the

ﬂ aps are fully retracted (“up”) the servo arms should

be back and when the ﬂ aps are extended the servo

arms should be forward. Also note that the front edge

of the ﬂ ap control horns is set back 3/8" [10mm] from

the TE of the wing and the front edge of the aileron

control horns is 3/16" [5mm] from the TE of the

wing. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes for the control horn

mounting screws. Mount the horns with #2 x 3/8"

[9.5mm] Phillips screws and mount the hatches with

arm portions of the elevator joiner wire so glue will

adhere. Slide two plywood elevator joiner mounts

over both ends of the elevator joiner wire. Then, glue

❏ 2. Use coarse sandpaper to roughen the torque

#2 x 3/8" button-head Allen screws. After installing

all the wood screws, temporarily remove the screws,

add a few drops of thin CA to each hole, allow the CA

the two sets of mounts together.

to harden and then reinstall all the screws.

thoroughly clean the pushrod. If necessary, cut

the pushrod wire to the correct length. Roughen

the end of the pushrod with coarse sandpaper

where it is to be soldered.

How to Solder

A. Use denatured alcohol or other solvent to

B. Apply a few drops of soldering ﬂ ux to the end of

another drop of ﬂ ux, and then heat and add

solder. The same as before, the heat of the

parts being soldered should melt the solder,

thus allowing it to ﬂ ow. Allow the joint to cool

naturally without disturbing. Avoid excess

blobs, but make certain the joint is thoroughly

soldered. The solder should be shiny, not rough.

the pushrod. Then, use a soldering iron or a torch

to heat it. “Tin” the heated area with silver solder

(GPMR8070) by applying the solder to the end.

The heat of the pushrod should melt the solder—

not the ﬂ ame of the torch or soldering iron—thus

allowing the solder to ﬂ ow. The end of the wire

should be coated with solder all the way around.

C. Place the clevis on the end of the pushrod. Add

If necessary, reheat the joint and allow to cool.

while it is still hot, use a cloth to quickly wipe off

D. Immediately after the solder has solidiﬁ ed, but

the ﬂ ux before it hardens. Important: After the

joint cools, coat with oil to prevent rust. Note:

Do not use the acid ﬂ ux that comes with silver

solder for electrical soldering.

This is what a properly

soldered clevis looks like—

shiny solder with good ﬂ ow,

no blobs, ﬂ ux removed.

HOOK UP THE RUDDERS AND ELEVATORS

❏ 6. With the elevators and hinges still connected,

glue the plywood joiner mounts to the stab, but do not

glue any of the hinges yet.

❏ 7. Remove the elevators and hinges from the

stab and the joiner wire. Use 30-minute epoxy to

permanently join the elevators to the stab and joiner

wire with the hinges. Same as the rudders, don’t push

the elevators up too close to the stab. Otherwise, you

may not be able to get full elevator throw (which is

1-1/4" [32mm] up and down).

❏ 1. Take the rudder servo hatches off the horizontal

stab. Reinforce the glue joint between the ends of the

horizontal stab where the vertical stabs mount and

the top and bottom of the stab sheeting with thin CA.

Allow to harden, and then follow up with a small ﬁ llet

of medium CA.

❏ 2. Mount the rudder servos to the hatches—you

should be an expert at mounting servos by now. (Drill

1/16" [1.6mm] holes, install the screws, remove, add

a few drops of thin CA to each hole, allow to harden,

and then mount the servo.)

❏ 8. While you’ve got some epoxy mixed up, round

one end of the 1/4" x 1-1/2" [6 x 40mm] stabilizer

dowel. Then, glue it into the leading edge of the

stabilizer with 3/8" [10mm] protruding.

❏ 3. Center the rudder servos by connecting them

to your radio. Cut off the unused servo arms. Then,

connect the arms to the servos with the screws.

❏ 3. Test ﬁ t both elevators to the elevator joiner wire.

If necessary, carefully bend the joiner wire so that

both elevators will be parallel with each other.

trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer directly behind

the mounting bolt holes.

❏ 4. Trim two 1/4" [6mm] strips of covering from the

❏ 5. Test ﬁ t the elevators with the joiner wire and the

hinges to the horizontal stabilizer. Hold the plywood

joiner mounts in position and move the elevators up

and down. Make any adjustments necessary so that

everything operates smoothly.

tube in the fuselage up to the radio compartment. If

you can’t get the extensions to go down through, you

could ﬁ rst insert a piece of string with a weight on

the end down through the front of the tube, and then

connect the string to the extensions and pull them

back through. Mount the stab to the fuselage with two

4-40 1-1/2" [38mm] SHCS and #4 lock washers, ﬂ at

❏ 11. Connect a 36" [910mm] servo extension to the

elevator servo and secure the connection with heat

shrink tubing.

❏ 12. Guide the servo extensions through the plastic

washers and a drop of threadlocker on the threads.

Connect the elevator and rudder servos to the receiver

and operate the controls to make sure everything

works smoothly. Make any adjustments necessary.

❏ 8. Connect the rudders to the rudder servos with

pushrods and the hardware shown in the photo. Don’t

forget to add thin CA to the holes in the rudder for the

wood screws.

MOUNT THE NOSE GEAR

Refer to this photo for the following four steps.

❏ 9. Now would be a good time to center the rudders

by adjusting the length of the pushrods and setting

the control throws as shown on page 43.

…Back to the elevator servo…

❏ 1. Temporarily connect the servo you will be using

for the nose steering to your radio and center the

servo. Cut off the two unused arms.

❏ 10. Mount the elevator servo in the top of the

elevator—if necessary, cut a notch in the servo

opening in the bottom of the stab to accommodate

the servo wire. Connect the elevator servo to the

elevators using the hardware shown—don’t forget to

remove the servo mounting screws and harden the

screw holes with thin CA. Remount the servo.

❏ 4. The rudder servos move together, so they may

be linked with a Y-harness connector (rather than

using the mixing in your transmitter). Use the strings

❏ 5. Temporarily mount the rudder servo hatches in

the hatch openings with #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] button-

head Allen screws. Remove the screws and add a

drop of thin CA to each screw hole. Allow the CA to

in the stab to guide two 12" [300mm] servo extensions

through each hatch opening and out the round hole

in the bottom. Connect the rudder servos to the

extensions and secure the connections with heat

shrink tubing.

harden and remount the hatches.

outside the stab to a Y-harness and secure those

connections with heat shrink tubing too.

❏ 6. Connect the ends of the servo extensions

❏ 7. Mount both vertical stabilizers to the horizontal

stabilizer with 4-40 x 3/8" [9.5mm] Phillips screws

and threadlocker on the threads.

skip the next six steps.

If installing ﬁ xed landing gear,

Refer to this photo for the following three steps.

From this point forward steps that are for retracts

only are preceded by an “R” and steps that are

for ﬁ xed gear only are preceded by an “F.”

If installing retracts skip the following two steps.

❏ R8. Remove the strut assembly from the retract

unit of the retractable nose landing gear. Grind a ﬂ at

spot in the steering shaft for the set screw in the

steering arm only. This is best done with a cutoff

wheel in a rotary tool to get the ﬂ at spot started, and

then using a small metal ﬁ le to square it up.

❏ R9. Reassemble the strut assembly, but do not ﬁ t

it into the retract unit.

❏ F6. Assemble the nose gear mount by using

eight 3 x 12mm ﬂ at head Phillips screws to attach

the aluminum mounting brackets the plastic nose

gear block. Note which side of the nose gear block is

the bottom.

❏ F7. Attach the nose gear wire to the nose gear

mount using the hardware shown and use threadlocker

on all the screws.

❏ 2. Connect one of the 24" [610mm] braided steel

cables to a brass coupler with a copper swage—if

you can’t get the end of the cable to go through the

swage, use a hobby knife to scrape some of the plastic

coating from the end of the cable. Tightly squeeze the

both cables to the nose steering servo with 2-56

swage with pliers so the cable won’t come out.

metal clevises and silicone clevis retainers.

❏ 3. Prepare another cable the same way. Connect

steering servo tray down inside the fuselage—it’s

almost out of reach, but not too difﬁ cult to get to.

❏ 4. Mount the nose steering servo in the nose

❏ 5. Guide the steering cables up through the plastic

tubes in the front of the fuselage

❏ R17. If mounting retractable nose gear, operate the

gear by hand and with your can of compressed air.

Make certain the gear operates freely, does not hit the

edges of the opening and is able to lock in both the up

and down positions. Make any adjustments necessary.

❏ 18. Connect the nose steering servo to your

radio and turn the system on. Make sure the servo

arm is centered. Note: A good way to set up the

nose steering is to connect the servo to an unused,

available channel in your receiver. Use the mixing in

your transmitter to electronically mix the nose steering

servo to the rudder, but assign a dial or lever on the

transmitter to the nose steering servo. At the ﬂ ying

ﬁ eld the dial or lever can be used to trim the nose

wheel so the model will roll straight down the runway.

❏ R12. Mount an 0-80 ball link to both steering arms

with a drop of threadlocker and 0-80 nuts.

❏ R13. Connect 18" [480mm] of air line to each

ﬁ tting on the air cylinder on the nose gear. Do not

connect the short pieces of tubing from your can of

❏ 19. With the radio system on (so the nose steering

compressed air to the air lines until step R17.

❏ R14. Holding the retract unit in your hand, retract

the gear (put the gear up). Guide the air line attached

to the side of the air cylinder through the small hole

in former F2 in the fuselage. Then, place the retract

in the mounting rails in the fuselage.

NOTE: The rest of the nose gear mounting

instructions are for both ﬁ xed gear and

retractable gear even though retracts are shown.

Where applicable, separate notes for each setup

are provided.

❏ 15. Place the nose gear in the mounting rails in the

fuselage. Mark the locations of the screw mounting

holes onto the wood rails (for retractable nose gear

servo arm cannot move), loop the ends of the steering

cables over the ball links on the nose gear and secure

with another swage on each cable. The loops in each

cable should be large enough to slip over the ball

link, but small enough so that they won’t come off on

their own. Adjust the clevises on the servo end of the

cables to center the nose wheel.

this will be easier to do if the gear is retracted). If

installing ﬁ xed gear, temporarily remove the nose

gear. Drill four 7/64" [2.8mm] holes through the rails

at each mark. Mount the gear to the rails with four #6

x 1/2" [13mm] Phillips screws.

❏ 16. Mount the nose wheel to the gear. If using

retracts, cut the axle to the correct length and grind

or ﬁ le a ﬂ at spot for the set screw. If using ﬁ xed gear

mount the nose wheel with two collars and 6-32 set

screws—and use threadlocker on all screws.

❏ R10. With the strut assembly back together but

still out of the retract unit, align the steering arm with

the axle and hold it in position with the top set screw.

Remove the bottom set screw and use a ﬁ ne-point

felt-tip pen to mark the location of the hole. Grind

another ﬂ at spot at the mark. Reassemble the unit

making sure the steering arm has remained parallel

with the axle. Adjust the ﬂ at spot if necessary. When

assembling the unit for the ﬁ nal time, use threadlocker

on the threads of all the set screws.

❏ R11. Reassemble the strut to the retract unit.

2-1/8"

[55mm]

NOSE GEAR DOOR PUSHROD

❏ 6. Glue the hinges in the doors and in the fuselage

with 30-minute epoxy. Use masking tape and thin

cardstock to hold the door closed and centered until

the epoxy has hardened.

❏ 7. Cut 1/2" [13mm] from the threaded end of a

4" [100mm] pushrod. Thread the pushrod about half-

way into a nylon ball link. Cut the overall length from

the end of the ball link to the end of the pushrod to

2-1/8" [55mm].

❏ 8. Sand the base of a small nylon control horn

so glue will adhere. Connect a screw-lock pushrod

former 2 inside the fuselage—there are access holes

through the front two formers that you can guide your

3/32" ball end wrench through and there is a 4-40

blind nut in the back of the former. Tighten the screw

as much as possible without binding the lever.

HOOK UP THE NOSE GEAR DOOR

(FOR RETRACTS ONLY)

Use this photo for the next three steps.

landing gear doors, glue one of the thin, plastic

5mm x 12mm washers to the back surface of the

❏ 1. Same as was done for the levers on the main

plywood nose gear door lever.

❏ 2. Mount a 2-56 ball link ball on the back of the

lever with a 2-56 nut and a drop of threadlocker.

❏ 4. Test ﬁ t the nose gear door to the fuselage with the

special spring hinges. Note: The hinges are installed

to spring the door open, not closed. Holding the door

closed, adjust the hinges so the door is centered in

the opening.

❏ 5. Remove the door hinges. Paint the hinge recesses

with a 4-40 x 1" [25mm] SHCS. Add a few drops of

threadlocker to the threads on the end of the screw.

❏ 3. Fit a brass bushing into the front of the lever

with black or gray paint.

Then, mount the lever to the wood block on the front of

❏ 3. If painting the cockpit, now is the best time to

do so. The cockpit shown in this manual was simply

painted ﬂ at black, but you could add more details if

preferred. The best method for painting is with an

airbrush because it coats evenly, but a regular bristle

brush could also be used.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

ASSEMBLE THE COCKPIT

Most of the scale details will be done later, but it’s best to

work on the cockpit now before ﬁ nal radio installation.

❏ 4. Cut both instrument panel decals from the decal

sheet with an approximately 1/8" [3mm] border all

the way around. Use 3M spray adhesive or similar

craft adhesive to glue the back of the black, plastic

instrument panel to the front of the instrument panel

decal that has the instruments.

❏ 5. Use a hobby knife or a single-edge razor blade

to trim the edges of the decal even with the edges of

the instrument panel.

❏ 1. Cut both 3/16" x 3/16" x 5" [5 x 5 x 130mm] balsa

sticks to ﬁ t between the forward cockpit ﬂ oor and the

cockpit bulkhead. Glue the sticks into position.

decal that has only the faces of the instruments to the

instrument panel. Trim the edges of the decal again.

❏ 6. Stick the front of the other instrument panel

❏ 2. Using the holes in the plywood cockpit ﬂ oor as

a guide, drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the balsa

sticks for the mounting screws. Mount the cockpit

ﬂ oor with four #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] button-head Allen

screws. Remove the screws, harden the holes with a

drop of thin CA and allow to harden.

connector to the second-from-the-bottom hole in the

horn. Connect the pushrod to the screw-lock pushrod

connector with a 4-40 x 1/8" [3mm] SHCS.

❏ 9. Snap the ball link on the pushrod onto the ball

on the door lever. Use medium CA to glue the horn to

the nose gear door where shown.

❏ 10. Temporarily guide the air lines for the nose

gear out the front of the fuselage so you can connect

them to your air can to test the gear and door. Use

compressed air to operate the door and adjust the

pushrod in the screw-lock until the door closes fully

when the gear is retracted.

HOOK UP THE AIR SYSTEM

❏ 11. Trim the back of both control yokes to ﬁ t the

yoke posts. Glue the control yokes to the posts. Paint

any additional scale details preferred inside the

cockpit. Then, cut the yoke posts to the correct height

and glue them into position.

❏ 1. Mount the air control valve to the plywood air

control valve mount as shown and glue on the

plywood triangular supports. Connect about 4"

[100mm] each of “up,” “down” and “ﬁ ll” line to the valve

and mount a 0-80 ball link ball to the valve with a 0-80

nut and a drop of threadlocker.

❏ 12. Position the cockpit canopy over the cockpit.

Drill two 1/16" [1/6mm] holes through each side of

the canopy into the fuselage where shown. Remove

the canopy, enlarge the holes in the canopy only

with a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill, and then mount the canopy

to the fuselage with four #2 x 3/8" button-head

Allen screws.

❏ 2. Mount the air ﬁ ller valve to the plywood ﬁ ll valve

mount pieces. The valve should protrude from the

front of the mount 7/32" [5.5mm] so it will be ﬂ ush

with the outside of the fuselage. Connect about one

inch [25mm] of air line to the ﬁ ll valve and connect

one of the “T” ﬁ ttings that came with the air system

to the line.

the completed instrument panel into the cockpit.

❏ 7. Use a few dabs of RTV silicone rubber to glue

Refer to this photo for the next four steps.

❏ 8. Paint the edges of the three pilot ﬁ gures with

plastic-compatible ﬂ at black paint. While the paint is

drying, carefully cut the pilot ﬁ gures from the decal

sheet. After the paint has dried, attach the decals to

both sides of each ﬁ gure.

❏ 9. Set the tail-gunner ﬁ gure aside until ﬁ nishing the

tail-gunner cockpit later. Glue the pilot and co-pilot

ﬁ gures to the cockpit ﬂ oor.

Glue the seats to the cockpit ﬂ oor.

❏ 10. Trim the bases of the cockpit seats as necessary.

One Final Note About Retracts: Test the retract

system either now, or later when you have completed

the rest of the radio installation. With all three landing

gears connected and operating, ﬁ rst test the system

with the plane upside-down in the building cradle.

This will allow you to identify and trouble-shoot any

problems. Once the gear is working satisfactorily,

retest the system with the model upright in the stand.

Pressurizing the tank up to 120 psi. should allow for

two full cycles, but we have pressurized ours up to

140 psi. Use caution when using extreme pressure. If

the model sits in the sun for extended periods during

hot weather the lines can soften and pressure in the

system could rise.

❏ 6. Use the remaining “T” ﬁ ttings to connect the rest

COMPLETE THE RADIO INSTALLATION

Refer to this photo while mounting the receiver

and switches.

of the air lines. Glue one of the plywood guides to

the radio tray for keeping the air lines and servo wires

organized. You can glue another guide to one of the

formers farther aft inside the fuselage.

❏ 7. If you haven’t done so already, cut the covering

from the holes in both sides of the fuselage for the air

❏ 1. Glue the plywood receiver mounts to the radio

tray to ﬁ t your receiver. Mount the receiver with R/C

foam rubber and a couple of rubber bands.

❏ 2. Cut the sheeting on the outside of the fuselage

over the mounting locations for the receiver on/off

switch and an external charging receptacle. An Ernst

#124 Charge Receptacle is shown. Before mounting

the charge receptacle, slide the mounting back plate

over the battery charging wire coming from the on/off

lines and servo wires to come out. Make sure the up

and down lines going back through the fuselage for

the main landing gear are long enough to come out of

the holes in both sides of the fuselage for connecting

to the lines coming from the inboard wing panels. Use

quick disconnects on the ends of the lines.

❏ 8. Use RTV silicone or epoxy to glue the air tank

into position—be certain the base, or front of the tank

(facing the front of the fuselage) does not protrude

more than 1/8" [3mm] forward of the front former.

Otherwise, it will interfere with the back of the scale

nose-gunner cabin.

Refer to this photo while hooking up the rest of

the air system.

❏ 3. Connect approximately 2" [50mm] of air line

to the air tank that came with the retracts. Slide the

air tank into the holes in the front two formers in the

fuselage, but do not glue the tank in place yet.

Mount your retract servo. Then, connect the servo to

the valve with a 4" [100mm] pushrod cut to the correct

length, a nylon ball link and a screw-lock connector

❏ 4. Glue the air control valve mount to the radio tray.

on the servo with a nylon retainer and a 4-40 SHCS.

❏ 5. Cut the covering from the hole in the left side of

the fuselage for the air valve mount. Glue the ﬁ ll valve

mount to the inside of the fuselage.

on the bottom of both inboard wing panels where they

meet the fuselage 5" [127mm] back from the leading

edge. There will be more information on C.G. and

balancing the model later after assembly has been

completed, but it’s a good idea to mark the balance

point now (if you won’t be using a C.G. Machine).

❏ 2. Fit either inboard wing panel to the fuselage

with the 30 x 440mm center main wing tube and both

10 x 305mm forward and aft main wing tubes. The

ends of the smaller tubes that have the threaded

holes should be inside the wing you are attaching to

the fuselage ﬁ rst.

❏ 3. Turn and position the forward and aft tubes so the

threaded holes align with the holes in the wing panel.

If you cannot get both holes to align, try switching

tubes. If the holes still don’t align try switching wing

panels. If one of the tubes won’t go in quite far enough

to get the holes to align, it is okay to ﬁ le the end of the

tube as necessary.

❏ 4. Once you have the holes in the tubes aligned

with the holes in one of the wing panels, thread 4-40 x

1" [25mm] SHCS into the wing panel and the tubes.

❏ 5. Tightly ﬁ t the other inboard wing panel to the

fuselage and tubes. Using the holes in the wing panel

as a guide, drill #43 holes through both tubes.

❏ 6. Remove the panel. Use a ﬁ ne-point felt-tip pen

to write on each tube which one is which and which

way goes up.

❏ 5. Guide the receiver antenna down through the

antenna tube in the fuselage.

❏ 6. Temporarily attach the inboard and outboard

wing panels and tail to the fuselage and connect all

the servo wires. Turn on the radio and make sure

NOTE: The receiver battery pack will be mounted

everything operates correctly. Make any adjustments

necessary. Now would also be a good time to connect

the air lines, pressurize the system and operate the

retractable landing gear as well.

after the nose-gunner cabin has been completed.

MOUNT THE INBOARD WING PANELS

[127mm]

We’ve already had the wings on and off the fuselage

a couple of times, but now it’s time to mount them

“for real.”

One end of the forward and aft aluminum wing tubes

is already drilled and tapped for 4-40 screws, but the

other end has to be drilled and tapped too.

where it contacts the fuselage.

The balance point is 5" [127mm]

from the leading edge of the wing

❏ 1. If you will not be balancing the model with a

Great Planes C.G. Machine, you will need to mark the

balance point on the bottom of the wing so you will

know where to lift the model when it’s time to check

the C.G. later. Now would be a good time to do this.

Use a ﬁ ne-point felt-tip pen to mark the balance point

Throttle hookup: The wiring diagram for

connecting the throttle servos shows each servo

manual for the servo extensions and Y-harnesses

used. Install and connect the wires as shown. Where

appropriate, secure connections between wires with

switch, guide the wire through the mounting hole in

the fuselage, and THEN connect the charging plug to

the receptacle mount. Mount the switch and charge

jack to the fuselage.

❏ 3. Refer to the wiring diagrams in the back of the

heat shrink tubing.

connected to separate channels in the receiver. They

are linked electronically through the transmitter,

but your receiver must also have an available

channel for this mix. For our Futaba radio we

connected one engine to channel 3 and the other

engine to channel 8 (Auxiliary 2). Depending on the

position of the assigned mixing switch, the throttles

can be operated separately (for synchronization

tuning and starting) or together with the throttle stick

during ﬂ ight. However, if you do not have enough

available channels to link the throttles through the

transmitter, they could be linked with a Y-Harness

and connected to the same channel.

❏ 4. Mark the ends of all the servo wires that are

to be connected and removed during assembly and

disassembly at the ﬁ eld with masking tape and a pen.

❏ 5. Fit the end of one of the 10 x 150mm aluminum

outer panel wing tubes that has the threaded hole into

the left, inboard wing panel. Secure the tube in the wing

with a 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS. Also ﬁ t one of the 22

x 295mm outer panel wing tubes into the panel.

❏ 2. Cut the covering from the wing 1/16" [2mm]

inside the lines you marked, but leave the black

covering in place. Wipe away the ink with one of your

small paper towel squares and denatured alcohol.

❏ 6. Join the outboard panel to the inboard panel

with a 1/4-20 x 2" [50mm] nylon bolt. Tighten the

outboard panel to the inboard panel

❏ 7. The same as was done for the inboard panels,

drill a #43 hole through the end of the tube in the

outboard panel.

❏ 8. Remove the outboard panel and the tube. Tap

4-40 threads into the hole you drilled in the tube. File

off any burrs from the holes.

❏ 3. Glue the air scoop to the wing with medium CA.

❏ 4. Mount the right air scoop to the right wing panel

the same way.

threads through the holes you just drilled. Use a ﬁ le to

remove any burrs from the tapped holes. Remount the

❏ 7. Remove the tubes from the fuselage. Tap 4-40

panels to the fuselage with 4-40 x 1" [25mm] SHCS

and a drop of threadlocker in each tube.

MOUNT THE OUTBOARD WING PANELS

❏ 1. Determine which molded plastic oil cooler air

scoop is the right and which one is the left by test

ﬁ tting them to the outboard wing panels. Hold the

left air scoop to the left outboard wing panel. Use a

ﬁ ne-point felt-tip pen to mark the outline of the scoop

directly onto the wing.

SCALE FEATURES

❏ 4. Use masking tape to hold the top to the bottom—

the best way is to lay both pieces upright on your

workbench and tape them together.

IMPORTANT: For the following two steps a CA tip is

necessary for gluing together the nose-gunner canopy.

❏ 5. Working carefully and taking your time, from

inside the canopy use thin CA to glue only the side

seams together. Start by ﬁ rst tacking the parts with

a drop of thin CA at the back–don't apply any CA

where there is masking tape. Otherwise, it could wick

under the tape and get on the outside. Add another

drop of CA to the same area on the other side of

the canopy. Now tack the front of the side seams

together. Remove the tape, then carefully glue the

rest of the side seams together. Wait several minutes

to allow the CA to dry before gluing the front seam in

the next step.

MOUNT THE NOSE-GUNNER CANOPY

❏ 1. Use medium CA to glue the plywood rubber band

hooks inside the clear, plastic nose-gunner window.

❏ 2. Test ﬁ t the nose-gunner canopy window to the

ﬁ berglass nose-gunner canopy bottom. If necessary,

use a bar-sander with medium-grit sandpaper to true

the edges of the window frame where necessary for

a good ﬁ t.

of the tube in the wing with another 4-40 x 3/4"

❏ 9. When you remove the outboard panel, if you have

difﬁ culty with the nylon bolt getting stuck in the hole of

the inboard panel, use a rotary tool or a hobby knife to

elongate the aft end of the hole for the wing bolt.

[19mm] SHCS.

❏ 10. Re-ﬁ t the outboard panel. Bolt the other end

same way.

❏ 11. Mount the other outboard wing panel the

❏ 3. Use medium-grit sandpaper to scuff the edges

of the bottom and the window frame where they

will join.

the machine gun pivot (to replicate the bolts on the

full-size subject). The retainer ring can also be painted

silver as the model on the kit box cover.

Use this photo for the following two steps.

❏ 10. Use a ﬁ ne-point felt-tip pen and a straightedge

to mark lines on the fuselage centered over the

middle of each of the four mounting blocks for the

nose-gunner canopy. Place the nose-gunner canopy

on the fuselage and tape it into position.

❏ 11. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the canopy

and the mounting blocks centered on the lines 3/16"

[5mm] from the aft edge of the canopy.

❏ 12. Remove the canopy. Enlarge the holes in

the canopy only with a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill. Mount

the nose-gunner canopy to the fuselage with four

#2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] button-head Allen screws.

CAUTION: In direct sunlight, extreme heat may

cause the top of the nose-gunner canopy to warp

at the aft edge where it meets fuselage.To prevent

this, it may be a good idea to keep the model in the

shade or cover the nose with a white cloth or towel

when temperatures are high.

❏ 8. Cut a 3/8" [9.5mm] diameter hole in the front of

the nose-gunner canopy for the nose machine gun.

Test ﬁ t the machine gun in the hole to make sure it

ﬁ ts well and can pivot up and down and side-to-side.

Make adjustments as necessary.

❏ 9. Mount the nose machine gun by using a piece

of leftover wire with an “L” bend on the end to hook

two or four small rubber bands to the hooks on the

machine gun and to the hooks in the canopy—two

rubber bands on the top will make the gun droop

as it would be when the plane is grounded or when

the gun is not in use—rubber bands on the top and

bottom will hold the gun level.

Optional: For added scale effect, insert eight 00-90

x 1/8" screws and 00-90 nuts into the canopy around

❏ 6. Glue the bottom, front seam together from

the outside.

Note: If any of the clear windows “fog” from curing CA,

the fogging can be removed by using a cotton swab

lightly moistened with CA debonder. Use care because

the debonder can remove the paint and smear the clear

plastic windows.

❏ 7. Glue one of the 6-1/8" [155mm] machine gun

barrels into the nose machine gun—be certain to glue

in the end of the barrel that does not have the holes

in it. Use plastic-cutting scissors or a hobby knife to

trim the pivot cup as shown. Glue the pivot cup to the

barrel 1/4" [6mm] from the front of the gun.

❏ 8. Add any other ﬁ nal, scratch-built, scale details

you like.

❏ 9. Securely glue the plywood nose-gunner cabin

platform to the fuselage.

Refer to this photo while installing the rest of the

nose-gunner cabin.

❏ 3. Drill ﬁ ve 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the cabin

back where shown for mounting it to the front of the

fuselage. Enlarge the holes in the cabin back only

with a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill. Then, mount the cabin back

with ﬁ ve #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] button-head Allen screws.

❏ 4. Use medium CA to glue the cabin ﬂ oor to the

plywood platform, but still do not glue the platform to

the fuselage.

❏ 5. Test ﬁ t the nose-gunner canopy to the fuselage.

Trim the nose-gunner cabin ﬂ oor where necessary

so it does not interfere with the ﬁ t of the nose-

❏ 10. Glue the plywood strips to the bottom of the

battery mount to make room for the Velcro strap

that goes all the way around. Use the included Velcro

material to make a strap for mounting the battery to the

mount with 1/4" [6mm] R/C foam in between. Mount the

battery to the mount. Note: It is likely that, by mounting

the battery to the bottom of the nose-gunner platform,

little or no additional lead ballast will be required to get

the model to balance at the speciﬁ ed balance point. If,

however, you would like to make certain you eliminate

or minimize any ballast required, you could mount

the battery later after you ﬁ nd out where the model

balances without it. If this is your preference, set the

battery aside until it’s time to balance the model when

you get to page 41. Or, go ahead and glue the battery

mount to the bottom of the nose-gunner platform now.

gunner canopy.

❏ 6. Paint the back of the nose-gunner tunnel ﬂ at

black, or cut out the tunnel and cover the former on

the front of the fuselage with a piece of thin plastic or

paper that has been painted ﬂ at black. Add any other

additional scale details you prefer or do any extra

painting that may be more difﬁ cult to paint after the

parts have been glued in.

❏ 7. Glue the tops to the ammo boxes, and then glue

the ammo boxes to the ammo tray. Glue the ammo

tray to the top edge of the cabin ﬂ oor where shown.

Glue the kneeling pad to the post coming up from

the ﬂ oor.

INSTALL THE NOSE-GUNNER CABIN

❏ 1. Glue together the plywood parts of the nose-

gunner cabin platform. Fit, but do not glue the

platform to the front of the fuselage.

❏ 2. Test ﬁ t the molded plastic nose-gunner cabin

ﬂ oor and cabin back to the fuselage. Trim the plastic

parts where necessary for a good ﬁ t.

❏ 6. Cut the covering 1/16" [1-2mm] inside the line

you marked all the way around. Cut another line 1/16"

[1-2mm] inside the ﬁ rst. Remove the strip of covering

so the turret will be glued directly to balsa.

❏ 7. Position the turret canopy on the fuselage so

the gun barrels will be centered in the openings

and the canopy will be centered over the cutout in

the covering. Carefully use thin CA to glue the turret

canopy to the fuselage.

❏ 4. Sand the paint from the bottom of the top turret

machine gun mounting brackets. Securely glue the

machine guns to the top of the fuselage.

FINISH THE TAIL-GUNNER CABIN

molded plastic tail gunner bulkhead, armor shield

and bracket mount into position. Use foam-safe CA or

❏ 1. Test-ﬁ t, trim if necessary, and then glue the

❏ 5. Position the top turret canopy on the fuselage

epoxy to glue the tail-gunner pilot ﬁ gure into position.

over the guns. Center the openings in the turret canopy

on the guns. Then, use a ﬁ ne-point felt-tip pen to mark

the outline of the canopy directly onto the fuselage.

MOUNT THE TOP TURRET AND

MACHINE GUNS

❏ 1. Glue two 6-1/8" [155mm] machine gun barrels

into each of the two top turret machine guns.

❏ 2. Place the top turret machine guns on top of the

fuselage so the aft vertical bracket is 5" [127mm]

from the opening for the cockpit and so the guns

are centered from side-to-side. Push down on the

machine guns hard enough to mark the balsa under

❏ 3. Using the marks in the top of the fuselage as

a guide, use a straightedge to cut the covering from

the top of the fuselage so that the guns will be glued

the covering.

directly to balsa.

matches the fuselage. Once positioned, hold down

the bottom gun pack and use a ﬁ ne-point ballpoint

pen to mark its outline directly onto the fuselage.

MOUNT THE SIDE GUN PACKS AND

THE WAIST GUN WINDOWS

Note: When mounting the side gun packs, make

❏ 3. Carefully cut the covering from the fuselage 1/16"

[1.5mm] inside the line and peel off the covering.

certain you don’t inadvertently position the ﬁ rst side

so the second side ends up interfering with the air

ﬁ ll valve or the on/off switch or charge jack. If you’ve

mounted the switches and air ﬁ ll valve on the left side,

mount the left gun pack ﬁ rst.

❏ 4. Hold the bottom gun pack back onto the fuselage

where it was before so it covers the exposed balsa.

Now hold the top gun pack down and mark its outline

onto the fuselage.

❏ 1. Use medium CA to glue two 6-1/8" [155mm]

machine gun barrels into the left side gun pack. The

front of the bottom gun should protrude from the front

of the blister 3-1/2" [88mm] and the front of the top

guns should be even with the bottom one.

The following steps will be easier to do with the

reseal any loose edges of covering back down to the

fuselage. Wipe off any ink with a paper towel square

❏ 5. Cut the covering from the fuselage for the top

gun pack. Set the left gun pack aside.

wings removed and the fuselage laying on its side.

❏ 6. Glue the gun barrels into the right gun pack and

prepare the right side of the fuselage for the right gun

pack the same way.

❏ 7. Use a covering iron and a covering sock to

and denatured alcohol.

❏ 2. Position the left gun pack where it ﬁ ts the fuselage

and so the gray and green paint line on the guns

prefer. Then, glue the tail-gunner canopy to the tail-

gunner cockpit.

❏ 2. Add any other additional scale details you

with both of the two machine gun barrels that

have the 4-40 threaded inserts. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm]

holes through the front of the tail-gunner cabin into

the plywood mounting blocks on each side of the

fuselage. Enlarge only the holes in the cabin with a

3/32" [2.4mm] drill. Mount the tail-gunner cabin using

two #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] button-head screws and the

❏ 3. Mount the tail-gunner cabin to the fuselage

threaded machine guns.

MOUNT THE ADF “FOOTBALL” ANTENNA

The ADF football antenna is attached to the model

with magnets. This way it can be easily removed

for transportation.

Now back to the gun packs…

❏ 1. Use the plywood template as a guide to cut

holes in the fuselage for the magnets with a 3/16"

[4.8mm] brass tube sharpened on the end or a 3/16"

[4.8mm] drill. The holes should be centered over

the middle stringer in the bottom of the fuselage.

Note: The Executive Sweet had the antenna on

the bottom of the fuselage, but some B-25s had the

football antenna in other locations. You can mount the

❏ 12. Place the left gun pack on the fuselage. First

glue the bottom, and then the top gun pack down

using thin CA with a CA applicator tip.

antenna wherever you prefer.

❏ 2. Stick the two magnets to the other magnets

already glued in the antenna so you’ll know which

way to glue them in.

❏ 13. Glue on the right gun pack, then the right

and left waist gun windows, with thin CA and a CA

applicator tip.

❏ 3. Use medium-grit sandpaper to lightly sand the

bottom of each magnet so glue will adhere. Making

Do not glue on the side gun packs yet. Prepare the

fuselage for gluing on the waist gun windows as

described below. Waiting to glue on the side gun

packs and waist guns until after the fuselage has

been prepared for them makes it easier to lay the

fuselage on its side.

❏ 8. Glue one of the 4-7/8" [125mm] waist machine

gun barrels into the left waist gun window as shown.

❏ 9. Same as for the top gun turret and the gun packs,

use a ﬁ ne-point ballpoint pen to mark the outline of the

waist gun window directly onto the fuselage. Cut and

remove the covering 1/16" [1.5mm] inside the line.

❏ 10. Prepare the right waist gun window and the

right side of the fuselage the same way.

❏ 11. Paint the inside edges of the window openings

for the waist guns ﬂ at black.

5" [127mm]

Great Planes

C.G. Machine

(For illustration purposes the supports of the C.G.

Machine are shown outboard of the engine nacelles,

but as specified in the instructions, the model should

actually be supported where the wings meet the fuselage.)

❏ 1. If you will be using a Great Planes C.G. Machine to

check the balance point, set the rulers to 5" [127mm].

If not using a Great Planes C.G. Machine, and if you

This is where your model should balance for the

ﬁ rst ﬂ ights. Later, you may wish to experiment by

shifting the C.G. up to 1/2" [13mm] forward or 1/2"

[13mm] back to change the ﬂ ying characteristics.

Moving the C.G. forward may improve the

smoothness and stability, but the model may then

require more speed for takeoff and make it more

haven’t already done so, use a straightedge and a

ﬁ ne-point felt-tip pen to mark the balance point on

the bottom of both inboard wing panels 5" [127mm]

back from the leading edges where they meet the

fuselage. Place 1/16" to 1/8" [1.5 to 3mm] strips of

tape over the lines you marked so you will be able to

feel the balance point with your ﬁ ngers when lifting

the model to balance.

difﬁ cult to slow for landing. Moving the C.G. aft

makes the model more maneuverable, but could

also cause it to become too difﬁ cult to control. In

any case, start at the recommended balance

point and do not at any time balance the model

outside the speciﬁ ed range.

❏ 2. If you haven’t yet done so, join the wings to

the fuselage with all the aluminum joiner tubes and

fasteners. If you haven’t yet mounted the receiver

battery keep it within reach so you will be able to

place it on the fuselage to ﬁ nd out where it should be

mounted inside.

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY

More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point)

BALANCE THE MODEL (C.G.)

can have the greatest effect on how a model ﬂ ies,

and may determine whether or not your ﬁ rst ﬂ ight

will be successful. If you value this model and wish

to enjoy it for many ﬂ ights, DO NOT OVERLOOK

THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE. A model that

is not properly balanced will be unstable and

[127mm]

where it contacts the fuselage.

The balance point is 5" [127mm]

from the leading edge of the wing

possibly unﬂ yable.

At this stage the model should be in ready-to-ﬂ y

condition with all of the systems in place (with the

possible exception of the receiver battery pack if you

decided to ﬁ nd out where the model balances ﬁ rst),

including the engines with propellers and propeller

hubs, landing gear, the complete radio system and

all the scale details that you will have in place when

you ﬂ y the model. If using retracts, the landing gear

should be down.

certain the magnets are in the correct orientation to

attract the magnets in the antenna, press the magnets

into the holes you cut in the fuselage and glue them

into position with thin CA.

Don’t forget to remove it when transporting the model.

❏ 4. “Snap” the ADF football antenna into position.

MOUNT THE PROPELLER HUBS

This model comes with two painted, aluminum

propeller hubs with 5/16"-24 threads that ﬁ t the O.S.

.70 four-stroke engines. If using these propeller hubs,

be certain to use threadlocker on the threads so the

hubs will not loosen if one of the engines backﬁ res.

Securely tighten the hubs with a round, metal bar

(such as a screwdriver shaft) through the holes in

the hubs. If using different engines that the propeller

hubs do not ﬁ t, Harry Higley makes similar propeller

hubs with different threads that will ﬁ t your engines.

APPLY THE DECALS

decals from the sheet.

❏ 1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the

❏ 2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily

ﬁ ngerprints and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small

bucket with a mixture of liquid dish soap and warm

Holding the decal down, use a paper towel to wipe

most of the water away.

water—about one teaspoon of soap per gallon of water.

Submerse the decal in the soap and water and peel off

the paper backing. Note: Even though the decals have

a “sticky-back” and are not the water transfer type,

submersing them in soap & water allows accurate

❏ 3. Position the decal on the model where desired.

positioning and reduces air bubbles underneath.

❏ 4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar

to squeegee remaining water from under the decal.

Apply the rest of the decals the same way.

PREFLIGHT

(STANDARD MODE 2)

4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP

RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP

LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN

FULL THROTTLE

CHECK THE CONTROL DIRECTIONS

BALANCE THE MODEL LATERALLY

❏ 1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you

❏ 1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center

the trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from

the servos and reposition them so they are centered.

Reinstall the screws that hold on the servo arms.

❏ 2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check

all the control surfaces to see if they are centered.

If necessary, adjust the clevises on the pushrods to

center the control surfaces.

lift the model under the middle of the fuselage behind

the nose-gunner canopy and under the tail-gunner

cockpit. Do this several times.

❏ 2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model,

it means that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by

adding weight to the other wing tip. An airplane

that has been laterally balanced will track better

in ﬂ ight and maintain its heading better during

maneuvers when the plane is climbing.

ELEVATOR MOVES UP

RUDDERS MOVE RIGHT

❏ 3. Make certain that the control surfaces and

the carburetor respond in the correct direction as

shown in the diagram. If any of the controls respond

in the wrong direction, use the servo reversing in

the transmitter to reverse the servos connected to

those controls. Be certain the control surfaces have

remained centered. Adjust if necessary.

ready to ﬂ y (less receiver battery), the landing gear

down and an empty fuel tank, place the model on a

Great Planes CG Machine, or lift it with your ﬁ ngers

on the balance point marked by the thin strips of tape

❏ 3. With all parts of the model installed, the model

on the bottom of the wings.

battery pack must be mounted forward or weight must

be added to the nose to balance. If the nose drops,

❏ 4. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the

the model is “nose heavy” and the battery pack must

be mounted aft or weight must be added to the tail to

balance. If you haven’t yet mounted the battery pack,

place it on top of the fuselage to see where it should

be mounted inside to achieve the perfect balance

point without having to add any additional ballast.

If you already mounted the battery, or if additional

weight is required, use Great Planes (GPMQ4485)

“stick-on” lead. The best place to add stick-on nose

pack inside the fuselage, or attach any required

lead ballast inside the nose or tail. Note: Do not rely

upon the adhesive on the back of the lead weight to

permanently hold it in place. Over time, the adhesive

may weaken causing the weight to fall off. Use

#2 sheet metal screws, RTV silicone or epoxy to

weight is to the bottom of the nose-gunner platform.

The best place to add tail weight is inside the very

back of the fuselage behind the horizontal stabilizer.

Begin by placing incrementally increasing amounts of

weight on the fuselage over the location where it will

be permanently attached inside the model until you

can get it to balance. Once you have determined the

amount of weight required (or the battery positioning),

it can be permanently attached.

❏ 5. If you haven’t yet done so, mount the battery

permanently hold the weight in place.

❏ 6. Connect the receiver battery to the on/off switch

using a servo extension if necessary. Secure the

❏ 7. IMPORTANT: Once you’ve mounted the battery

connections with heat shrink tubing.

or added any additional weight, recheck the C.G.

after it has been installed.

BALANCE PROPELLERS

IMPORTANT: The Top Flite B-25J Mitchell ARF

has been extensively ﬂ own and tested to arrive at

the throws at which it ﬂ ies best. Flying your model

at these throws will provide you with the greatest

chance for successful ﬁ rst ﬂ ights. If, after you have

become accustomed to the way the B-25 ﬂ ies, you

would like to change the throws to suit your taste,

that is ﬁ ne. However, too much control throw could

make the model difﬁ cult to control, so remember,

“more is not always better.”

Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers

before you ﬂ y. An unbalanced prop can be the single

most signiﬁ cant cause of vibration that can damage

your model. Not only will engine mounting screws

and bolts loosen, possibly with disastrous effect, but

vibration may also damage your radio receiver and

battery. Vibration can also cause your fuel to foam,

which will, in turn, cause your engine to run hot or quit.

IDENTIFY YOUR MODEL

No matter if you ﬂ y at an AMA sanctioned R/C club

site or if you ﬂ y somewhere on your own, you should

always have your name, address, telephone number

and AMA number on or inside your model. It is required

at all AMA R/C club ﬂ ying sites and AMA sanctioned

ﬂ ying events. Fill out the identiﬁ cation tag on the decal

sheet and place it on or inside your model.

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer

CHARGE THE BATTERIES

Follow the battery charging instructions that came with

(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great

Planes Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our

ﬂ ight box.

your radio control system to charge the batteries. You

should always charge your transmitter and receiver

batteries the night before you go ﬂ ying, and at other

times as recommended by the radio manufacturer.

GROUND CHECK

If the engines are new, follow the engine

manufacturer’s instructions to break-in the

engines. After break-in, conﬁ rm that the engines idle

reliably, transition smoothly and rapidly to full power

CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with

your radio system state differently, the initial charge

on new transmitter and receiver batteries should

be done for 15 hours using the slow-charger that

came with the radio system. This will "condition"

the batteries so that the next charge may be done

and maintain full power—indeﬁ nitely. After you run

using the fast-charger of your choice. If the initial

the engines on the model, inspect the model closely

to make sure all screws remained tight, the hinges

are secure, the props are secure and all pushrods

and connectors are secure.

charge is done with a fast-charger the batteries

may not reach their full capacity and you may be

ﬂ ying with batteries that are only partially charged.

SET THE CONTROL THROWS

Use a Great Planes AccuThrow or a ruler to

accurately measure and set the control throw of each

control surface as indicated in the chart that follows. If

your radio does not have dual rates, we recommend

setting the throws at the low rate setting.

NOTE: For the ailerons, the throws are measured at

the widest part (at the root end).

These are the recommended high and low rate

control surface throws.

High Rate Low Rate

ELEVATOR: 1-1/4" up 1" up

1-1/4" down 1" down

[32mm] [25mm]

RUDDER: 1-1/4" right 3/4" right

1-1/4" left 3/4" left

[32mm] [19mm]

AILERONS: 5/8" up 3/8" up

5/8" down 3/8" down

[16mm] [10mm]

*FLAPS: 1/2" [13mm] 1" [25mm]

(1/2 ﬂ ap) (full ﬂ ap)

* 1/4" [6mm] of down elevator should be mixed in with full ﬂ ap deﬂ ection

to control “pitch-up” when ﬂ aps are extended.

air shows, or model ﬂ ying demonstrations until it

has been proven to be airworthy by having been

previously, successfully ﬂ ight tested.

approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport

without notifying the airport operator. I will give

right-of-way and avoid ﬂ ying in the proximity of

AMA SAFETY CODE (EXCERPTS)

Read and abide by the following excerpts from the

Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For

the complete Safety Code refer to Model Aviation

magazine, the AMA web site or the Code that came

with your AMA license.

GENERAL

shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects

such as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of

• Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing,

shirt or jacket pockets into the prop.

engine. Do not use your ﬁ ngers to ﬂ ip the propeller.

Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is

• Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the

secure so that it will not pop off or otherwise get into

1) I will not ﬂ y my model aircraft in sanctioned events,

the running propeller.

2) I will not ﬂ y my model aircraft higher than

rotating propeller.

• Make all engine adjustments from behind the

• The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right

full-scale aircraft. Where necessary, an observer

after operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good

condition so fuel will not leak onto a hot engine,

causing a ﬁ re.

shall be utilized to supervise ﬂ ying to avoid having

models ﬂ y in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

name and address or AMA number, on or in the

model. Note: This does not apply to models while

for the ﬂ ying site I use, and I will not willfully and

deliberately ﬂ y my models in a careless, reckless

and/or dangerous manner.

3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules

off the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s

recommendations. Do not use hands, ﬁ ngers or any

• To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing

5) I will not ﬂ y my model unless it is identiﬁ ed with my

other body part to try to stop the engine. To stop a

gasoline powered engine an on/off switch should be

connected to the engine coil. Do not throw anything

being ﬂ own indoors.

into the propeller of a running engine.

device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile

of any kind).

7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any

RADIO CONTROL

ground check before the ﬁ rst ﬂ ight of a new or

1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment

repaired model.

spectators until I become a qualiﬁ ed ﬂ ier, unless

assisted by an experienced helper.

established in front of which all ﬂ ying takes place

with the other side for spectators. Only personnel

2) I will not ﬂ y my model aircraft in the presence of

3) At all ﬂ ying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be

involved with ﬂ ying the aircraft are allowed at or in

the front of the ﬂ ight line. Intentional ﬂ ying behind

the ﬂ ight line is prohibited.

RANGE CHECK

Ground check the operational range of your radio

before the ﬁ rst ﬂ ight of the day. With the transmitter

antenna collapsed and the receiver and transmitter

on, you should be able to walk at least 100 feet

away from the model and still have control. Have an

assistant stand by your model and, while you work

the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are

doing. Repeat this test with the engines running at

various speeds with an assistant holding the model,

using hand signals to show you what is happening.

If the control surfaces do not respond correctly, do

not ﬂ y! Find and correct the problem ﬁ rst. Look for

loose servo connections or broken wires, corroded

wires on old servo connectors, poor solder joints in

your battery pack or a defective cell, or a damaged

receiver crystal from a previous crash.

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Failure to follow these safety precautions may

result in severe injury to yourself and others.

heat, sparks or ﬂ ames, as fuel is very ﬂ ammable. Do

not smoke near the engine or fuel; and remember

• Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high

that engine exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly

carbon monoxide. Therefore do not run the engine

in a closed room or garage.

operate engines.

• Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to

• Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.

• Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or

sand; the propeller may throw such material in your

face or eyes.

away from the plane of rotation of the propeller as

you start and run the engine.

• Keep your face and body as well as all spectators

MOUNT THE WINGS

Assuming the outer panels and tail have been

mounted to the model at the work shop and you’ve

transported it in this conﬁ guration, connect the aileron

and ﬂ ap servo wires and mount the outboard panels

to the inboard panels.

FUEL MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS

A fully cowled engine may run at a higher temperature

than an un-cowled engine. For this reason, the fuel

mixture should be richened slightly so the engine

runs at about 200 rpm below peak speed. By running

the engine slightly rich, you will help prevent dead-

stick landings caused by overheating.

direction and the throws are set up according

to the manual.

the clevises.

servos with the screws that came with them.

servo wires and Y-connectors or servo extensions,

and the connection between your battery pack

turn freely.

❏ 7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will

where appropriate (servo mounting screws,

canopy mounting screws, etc.).

❏ 8. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.

❏ 9. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA

❏ 10. Conﬁ rm that all controls operate in the correct

❏ 11. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all

❏ 12. Make sure all servo arms are secured to the

❏ 13. Where appropriate, secure connections between

and the on/off switch with vinyl tape, heat shrink

CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C

AIRPLANES): If, while ﬂ ying, you notice an

alarming or unusual sound such as a low-pitched

“buzz,” this may indicate control surface ﬂ utter.

Flutter occurs when a control surface (such as an

aileron or elevator) or a ﬂ ying surface (such as a

have used do not interfere with other systems

(servo arms, pushrods, cables, etc.).

tubing or special clips suitable for that purpose.

❏ 14. Make sure any servo extension wires you may

not kinked.

❏ 15. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are

❏ 16. Balance the propellers (and spare propellers).

wing or stab) rapidly vibrates up and down (thus

causing the noise). In extreme cases, if not detected

❏ 17. Securely tighten the propeller hubs. Be certain

immediately, ﬂ utter can actually cause the control

to use threadlocker on the threads.

surface to detach or the ﬂ ying surface to fail, thus

causing loss of control followed by an impending

crash. The best thing to do when ﬂ utter is detected

is to slow the model immediately by reducing

telephone number on or inside your model.

and make sure it is fully charged.

❏ 18. Place your name, address, AMA number and

❏ 19. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary)

power, then land as soon as safely possible. Identify

which surface ﬂ uttered (so the problem may be

resolved) by checking all the servo grommets for

deterioration or signs of vibration. Make certain all

pushrod linkages are secure and free of play. If it

ﬂ uttered once, under similar circumstances it will

probably ﬂ utter again unless the problem is ﬁ xed.

before your ﬁ rst ﬂ ight.

ﬂ ying ﬁ eld.

❏ 20. If you wish to photograph your model, do so

❏ 21. Range check your radio when you get to the

Some things which can cause ﬂ utter are; Excessive

hinge gap; Not mounting control horns solidly; Poor

FLYING

ﬁ t of clevis pin in horn; Side-play of wire pushrods

caused by large bends; Excessive free play in

servo gears; Insecure servo mounting; and one of

the most prevalent causes of ﬂ utter; ﬂ ying an over-

powered model at excessive speeds.

The Top Flite B-25J Mitchell ARF is a great-ﬂ ying model

that ﬂ ies smoothly and predictably. The B-25 does not,

however, possess the self-recovery characteristics

of a primary R/C trainer and should be ﬂ own only by

experienced R/C pilots.

frequencies currently allowed by the Federal

Communications Commission.

three miles of any pre-existing ﬂ ying site

except in accordance with the frequency

sharing agreement listed [in the complete AMA

Safety Code].

person touch a powered model in ﬂ ight; nor should

any part of the model other than the landing

gear, intentionally touch the ground, except

while landing.

4) I will operate my model using only radio control

5) I will not knowingly operate my model within

9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other

CHECK LIST

During the last few moments of preparation

your mind may be elsewhere anticipating the

excitement of the ﬁ rst ﬂ ight. Because of this, you

may be more likely to overlook certain checks and

procedures that should be performed before the

model is ﬂ own. To help avoid this, a check list is

provided to make sure these important areas are

not overlooked. Many are covered in the instruction

manual, so where appropriate, refer to the manual

to the measurements and procedures provided.

for complete instructions. Be sure to check the

items off as they are completed.

❏ 1. Make sure you have checked the C.G. according

mounted. Simply stufﬁ ng them into place with

foam rubber is not sufﬁ cient.

the antenna tube in the fuselage.

❏ 2. Balance your model laterally as explained.

❏ 3. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely

❏ 4. Extend the receiver antenna all the way down

❏ 5. Use threadlocking compound to secure critical

stabilizer and the vertical stabilizers have

been securely tightened with threadlocker on

fasteners such as the set screws on the retractable

landing gear struts and axles or wheel collars,

screw-lock pushrod connectors, etc.

the threads.

❏ 6. Be certain the screws holding the horizontal

SINGLE ENGINE-OUT PROCEDURES

The ﬁ rst thing to do is recognize that an engine has

quit. This may not be easy because the plane may not

react immediately or the single running engine may

be difﬁ cult to hear if other models are also in the air.

Once you’ve noticed that an engine has quit, the next

ﬂ ight and execute practice landing approaches by

reducing the throttle to see how the model handles at

slower speeds. Extend the ﬂ aps at low throttle settings

to see how the model reacts. Add power to see how

she climbs as well. Continue to ﬂ y around, executing

various maneuvers and making mental notes (or

having your assistant write them down) of what trim or

C.G. changes may be required to ﬁ ne tune the model

thing to do is decide! Decide whether to continue to

ﬂ y on one engine until you can get the plane closer, or

so it ﬂ ies the way you like. Mind your fuel level, but

to just kill the running engine and make a dead-stick

landing. The Top Flite B-25 has ﬂ own both left and

right-hand turns on a single engine, turning both into

the dead and into the running engine. Both situations

will require the coordinated use of rudder and ailerons.

use this ﬁ rst ﬂ ight to become familiar with your model

before landing.

The key to making turns on one engine is to steer

the plane with the rudder and use the ailerons

only for keeping the wings level. Using the ailerons

to make banked turns may result in a stall or a spin,

so be certain to use the rudder for turning.

The other thing to keep in mind when ﬂ ying on one

engine is that when turning toward the dead engine

(making a left-hand turn with the left engine not

running) turns may be tighter than you expect. And

when turning away from the dead engine (making

a right-hand turn with the left engine out) turns may

be wider than you expect. If using the ailerons for

turning away from the dead engine the nose will pitch

up the plane will slow until it stalls, so again, do your

turning with the rudder and use the ailerons to keep

the wings level.

B-25 ENGINE-OUT FLYING PROCEDURES

One of the primary concerns when ﬂ ying a twin-

engine model is "what if one engine quits?" While

“engine-out” is never desirable, through experience

and testing we have developed a model that will not

react suddenly or unexpectedly and can be controlled

well enough to get it safely back to the ground if one

engine does quit.

There are two different approaches that can be taken

if an engine quits. “Plan A” is to follow the Single

Engine-Out Procedures to carefully ﬂ y the model on

one engine allowing you to bring it closer to the landing

zone or runway. If, however, you become confused or

ﬁ nd yourself not able to execute or understand the

In either scenario the other thing to remember is to

keep the airspeed up. Powered by one engine, there

will be enough thrust to extend the ﬂ ight, but the

plane will slowly lose altitude. If too much airspeed

is lost, one engine will not be able to provide enough

power recover, so you will have to point the nose

down to gain airspeed. If the plane is already too

low this may not be an option, so ﬂ at, large turns

are the key. When on the ﬁ nal leg approaching the

runway, cut the running engine just the same as you

would if performing a normal approach. Flaps are not

procedures, it would be safer to go to “Plan B” which

is simply to cut the throttle on the remaining running

engine and perform a dead-stick landing same as

you would with any other model. Of course, you won’t

have the ability to ﬂ y the model closer and will have to

land with the altitude and distance given. To execute

a single-engine landing follow the Single Engine-

Out Procedures below:

recommended for a single-engine landing unless you

are surely going to overshoot.

TAKEOFF

Before you get ready to takeoff, see how the model

handles on the ground by doing a few practice

runs at low speeds on the runway. If necessary,

hold a small amount of “down” elevator to keep the

nose wheel on the ground. If necessary, adjust the

nose wheel so the model will roll straight down the

runway—if your rudders and nose steering servos

are connected to different channels in your receiver

(and are electronically mixed), you should be able to

do this with one of the dials on your transmitter. If you

need to calm your nerves before the maiden ﬂ ight,

shut the engines down and bring the model back into

the pits. Top off the fuel, and then check all fasteners

and control linkages for peace of mind.

Remember to takeoff into the wind. When ready,

point the model straight down the runway. Gradually

advance the throttle and use the rudders and nose

steering to keep the model tracking straight. Gain

as much speed as your runway and ﬂ ying site will

practically allow before gently applying up elevator,

lifting the model into the air. At this moment you may

need to apply right rudder to counteract engine torque.

Be smooth on the elevator stick, allowing the model

to establish a gentle climb to a safe altitude before

turning into the trafﬁ c pattern and retracting the gear

(should you choose to do so on your maiden ﬂ ight).

FLIGHT

For reassurance and to keep an eye on other trafﬁ c,

it is a good idea to have an assistant on the ﬂ ight

line with you. Tell him to remind you to throttle back

once the plane gets to a comfortable altitude. While

full throttle is usually desirable for takeoff, the B-25

should ﬂ y well at approximately 1/2-throttle.

Take it easy with the B-25 for the ﬁ rst few ﬂ ights,

gradually getting acquainted with it as you gain

conﬁ dence. Adjust the trims to maintain straight and

level ﬂ ight. After ﬂ ying around for a while, and while

still at a safe altitude with plenty of fuel, practice slow

and ﬂ y in a safe manner.

right rudder to counteract torque) and retract the ﬂ aps

when enough airspeed is gained. Climb out to make

another attempt. When ﬁ nally ready to land and the

model is a foot or so off the deck and you are ready to

make the landing ﬂ are, smoothly increase up elevator

until the wheels gently touch down. Once the model

is on the runway and has lost ﬂ ying speed, hold down

elevator to hold the nose on the ground. Note: If ever

the occasion arises when a dead-stick landing must

be performed, do not extend the ﬂ aps until certain

the model will be able to reach the landing zone (on

dead-stick landings it is common to land with no ﬂ aps

at all). Without engine power, ﬂ aps can unexpectedly

reduce the model’s range, thus causing you to come

up short of the ﬁ eld.

One ﬁ nal note about ﬂ ying your B-25 ARF. Have a

goal or ﬂ ight plan in mind for every ﬂ ight. The goal

could be learning a new maneuver, perfecting known

to cut the other engine and dead-stick immediately.

3. Remember—use the rudder to do the turning and

use the ailerons to keep the wings level. Turns around

If not proﬁ cient with the rudder or if anxious

about becoming confused with single engine-out

procedures, it may be safer just to cut the throttle

and perform a dead-stick landing the same as you

would any other single-engine plane. Of course, you

will have to land with the altitude and distance given.

Again, do not extend the ﬂ aps on a single-engine or

engine-out landing (unless you are already over or

very near the runway).

Here’s a review of the Single

Engine-Out Procedures:

1. Recognize that an engine has quit.

2. Decide whether to continue ﬂ ying on one engine or

the dead engine will be tighter and turns away from

maneuvers, or learning how the model behaves in

certain conditions (such as on high or low rates). This

is not necessarily to improve your skills (though it is

never a bad idea!), but more importantly so you do

the dead engine will be wide.

4. Maintain your airspeed.

not surprise yourself by impulsively attempting a

maneuver without planning. Every maneuver should

be deliberate. For example, if performing a loop, plan

it out—check your altitude, mind the wind direction

(anticipating rudder corrections that will be required

LANDING

The B-25 may be landed with or without ﬂ aps. Flaps

increase lift and drag, so the plane may be landed

with less ground speed, thus shortening rollout

to maintain heading), remember to throttle back on

the down side, and make certain you are on the

desired rates (high/low rates). A ﬂ ight plan greatly

reduces the chances of crashing just because of poor

planning and impulsive moves. Remember to think!

after touchdown (not as much of a factor on grass

runways). To initiate a landing approach, lower the

throttle while on the downwind leg (parallel with the

runway, but going the opposite direction). If using

Have a ball! But always stay in control

ﬂ aps, allow the model to slow, then extend the ﬂ aps.

Continue to lose altitude, but maintain airspeed

by keeping the nose down as you turn onto the

crosswind leg. Make the ﬁ nal turn toward the runway

(into the wind) keeping the nose down to maintain

airspeed and control. If landing with ﬂ aps keep a

few additional “clicks” of power so the model doesn’t

GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!

reaches the runway threshold and is approximately

ten feet [3 meters] above the ground, modulating the

throttle as necessary to maintain the glide path and

airspeed. If you are going to overshoot the runway,

slow too much. Level the attitude when the model

smoothly advance the throttle (always ready on the

™

FS-70 Surpass

O.S.

Displacement: 0.70 cu in (11.50cc)

Bore: 1.02 in (25.8mm)

Stroke: 0.866 in (22.0mm)

Output: 1.1hp @ 11,000 rpm

Practical rpm range: 2,000 to 12,000 rpm

Weight w/muffler: 20.65 oz (585.4g)

Improve your fuel economy and

increase your power with the FS-70

Surpass II. It puts out an impressive

1.1 horsepower at 11,000 rpm – with

all the power you need to execute

4200mAh Sub-C

™

HydriMax

Hobbico

big maneuvers. Its Type 60R carb provides more precise fuel flow control and smoother

throttle control than the original FS-70 Surpass. The FS-70 Surpass II also features easier

installation, adjustment and maintenance. Muffler and glow plug included. Two-year warranty.

OSMG0872

NiMH Flat Receiver Pack

Capacity: 4200mAh

# of Cells: 4

Rated Voltage: 4.8V

Dimensions: 3.6 x 1.9 x 0.95 in (93 x 47 x 24 mm)

Weight: 10.05 oz (285 g)

Assembled from the highest-capacity cells that HydriMax has produced to

date — a whopping 4200mAh — this sub-C ﬂ ight pack ensures that you’ll

have the power you need to keep multiple digital servos moving. Gold-

plated terminals on the universal connectors provide excellent conductivity.

HCAM6335

ITEMS AVAILABLE FOR YOUR B-25J MITCHELL

Robart Tri Gear Retracts

Engines .46 AX ABL

O.S.

Maximize the realism of your Gold Edition B-25J Mitchell with 3-gear air

pneumatic retracts from Robart! They’re made of strong, lightweight steel

and aluminum, and are custom-designed speciﬁ cally for this model. Nose

gear and main assemblies are included. Air kit is required (ROBQ2302).

ROBQ1624

Displacement: 0.455 cu in (7.5 cc)

Bore: 0.866 in (22.0 mm)

Stroke: 0.772 in (19.6 mm)

Output: 1.65 bhp @16,000 rpm

RPM Range: 2,000-17,000

Weight w/muffler: 17.2 oz (489g)

Includes: #A3 glow plug, E-3010 muffler

Requires: glow fuel, prop

Suggested prop sizes: 10.5x6, 11x6-8, 12x6-7

Ask the pilot who owns one, and

the reasons to buy mount up

fast. Start with 1.65 hp output

from a 17.2 oz. engine. Add

ABL (Advanced Bimetallic Liner)

durability, a self-leveling and

aligning head design, a tapered

low-speed needle to eliminate

transition “surge” and the.46 AX

still has more to offer. There's a simple rotor guide screw for low-end adjustment - and

the high-speed needle includes both a ratchet spring and O-ring seal to lock settings in

for the long haul. Includes A3 glow plug, E-3010 muffler, and 2-year warranty protection.

OSMG0547

Bottom of plane

Cut on

RIGHT

Right engine mounting template

for O.S. two-stroke

dotted line

Bottom of plane

Cut on

RIGHT

Right engine mounting template

for O.S. .70 four-stroke

dotted line

Bottom of plane

Left engine mounting template

LEFT

for O.S. two-stroke

Bottom of plane

Left engine mounting template

for O.S. .70 four-stroke

LEFT

Top Flite B-25J Mitchell User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual