Top Flite A1010 INSTRUCTION BOOK

WARRANTY.....Top Flite

®

Models guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase.This warranty

does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification.In no case shall Top Flite’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Top Flite

reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall

be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user

accepts all resulting liability .If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this pr oduct,the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately

in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

Top Flite Models Champaign, IL Telephone [phone], Ext. 5 [e-mail]

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

TOPZ0010 for TOPA1010 V1.0

Entire Contents © Copyright 2005

Wingspan: 54 in [1,370mm]

Wing Loading: 13 oz/sq ft [39 g/dm

2

]

Length: 43 in [980mm]

Wing Area: 594 sq in [38.3 dm

2

]

Prop: 11x4 Top Flite Power Point Prop

Weight: 3.5 – 4 lb [1,590 – 1,815g]

Engine: .40 – .46 cu in [5.5 – 7.5cc]

2-stroke glow control line

™

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . 2

ENGINE & LINE RECOMMENDATIONS . . . . . . 3

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED. . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Hardware & Accessories. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Adhesives & Building Supplies . . . . . . . . . . 3

Optional Supplies & Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Covering Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

KIT INSPECTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS . . . . . . . . . 4

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

KIT CONTENTS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Assemble the Main Wing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Install the Horizontal Stab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Attach the Elevators . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Attach the Fin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Install the Flaps. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Connect the Flap Pushrod. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Connect the Elevator Pushrod . . . . . . . . . . 10

LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . 11

Install the Main Gear. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Install the Tail Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

ENGINE INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

FUEL T ANK INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Assemble the Fuel Tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Mount the Fuel Tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

FINAL DETAILS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Control Surface Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Mount the Canopy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Apply the Decals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY . . . . . . . . . . 15

Balance the Model (C.G.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Balance the Propeller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Engine Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Control Check. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Adjustable Leadouts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . 16

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpt) . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

General. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Control Line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

CHECK LIST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

FLYING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Preflight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Takeoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Landing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

AMA STUNT MANEUVERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the

Top Flite Control Line Tutor II ARF. Reincarnated

and enlarged from original Top Flite plans, the Tutor

II ARF is a perfect way to get into beginner stunt

flying without the initial time and money commitment

required for today’s kit-built stunters.And if you plan

to just dabble in control line, the Tutor II ARF has the

perfect blend of maneuverability and stability to get

you into the air with minimal assistance from an

experienced flyer.

1.Your Top Flite Tutor II ARF should not be considered

a toy, but rather a working model that functions like a

full-size airplane. Because of its performance

capabilities, the Tutor II ARF, if not assembled and

operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to

yourself or spectators and damage to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the

instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing

so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few

cases the instructions may differ slightly from the

photos. In those instances the written instructions

should be considered as correct.

3.You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

4. You must use control lines that are in first-class

condition with appropriate length and diameter. Use a

correctly sized engine and components throughout the

building process.

5. You must correctly install all pushrods and other

components so that the model operates correctly on the

ground and in the air.

6. You must check the operation of the model before

every flight to insure that all equipment is operating and

that the model has remained structurally sound.

7. If you are not already an experienced control line

pilot, you should fly the model only with the help of a

competent, experienced control line pilot.

8.While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal

use, if the plane will be used for extremely high stress

flying, such as racing, the modeler is responsible for

taking steps to reinforce the high stress points.

Remember: Take your time and follow the

instructions to end up with a well-built model that is

straight and true.

If you have not flown a control line stunt model before,

we recommend that you get the assistance of an

experienced pilot in your club for your first flights. If

you’re not a member of a club, your local hobby shop

has information about clubs in your area whose

membership includes experienced pilots.

Note: We , as the kit manufacturer, provide you with

a top quality, thoroughly tested kit and instructions,

but ultimately the quality and flyability of your

finished model depends on how you build it;

therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the

performance of your completed model, and no

representations are expressed or implied as to the

performance or safety of your completed model.

PRO TECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF & OTHERS

FOLLO W THESE IMPORT ANT

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

- 2 -

In addition to joining a control line club, we strongly

recommend you join the AMA (Academy of Model

Aeronautics). AMA membership is required to fly at

AMA sanctioned clubs.Among other benefits, the AMA

provides insurance to its members who fly at

sanctioned sites and events. Additionally, training

programs and instructors are available at AMA club

sites to help you get started the right way. Contact the

AMA at the following address or toll-free phone number:

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at: http://www .modelaircraft.org

ENGINE & LINE

RECOMMENDATIONS

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

Hardware & Accessories

Following is a list of hardware and accessories

required to finish the Top Flite Control Line Tutor II

ARF. Order numbers are provided in parentheses.

❏ 3' [900mm] Std silicone fuel tubing (GPMQ4131)

❏ Control lines, .018" x 70' (SULP2636)

❏ 1/4" [6mm] White striping tape (GPMQ1610)

❏ Line connectors, Large, 50lb test (SULP2949)

❏ Standard INSTA JUST handle (SULP2866)

Adhesives & Building Supplies

In addition to common hobby tools and household

tools, this is the “short list” of the most important items

required to build the Top Flite Tutor II ARF. Great

Planes

®

Pro

™

CA and Epoxy glue are recommended.

❏ Great Planes 1/2 oz. Thin Pro CA (GPMR6001)

❏ Great Planes Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)

❏ Great Planes Threadlocker

™

thread-locking

cement (GPMR6060)

❏ Hobbico

®

#1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)

❏ Hobbico #11 Blades (5-pack HCAR0211, or 100-

pack HCAR0311)

❏ Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 5/64" [2mm], 3/32"

[2.4mm], 1/8" [3.2mm], 9/64" [3.6mm]

❏ Small metal file

❏ Great Planes Stick-on segmented lead

weights (GPMQ4485)

❏ Hobbico Medium T-pins (100, HCAR5150)

❏ Sandpaper assortment

Optional Supplies & Tools

These are some of the items used while building the

Tutor II ARF that are not absolutely necessar y, but

are mentioned in the manual.

❏ Top Flite Panel line pen (TOPQ2510)

❏ Hobbico CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)

❏ Great Planes CA debonder (GPMR6039)

❏ Great Planes Pro 6-minute epoxy (GPMR6045)

❏ Great Planes Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060)

❏ Great Planes Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)

❏ Great Planes Mixing cups (GPMR8056)

❏ Hobbico Builder’s Triangle Set (HCAR0480)

❏ Hobbico Curved-tip canopy scissors for trimming

plastic parts (HCAR0667)

❏ Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)

❏ Bulk Kevlar cable 30' [9m] (SULQ3223)

❏ Great Planes CG Machine

™

(GPMR2400)

❏ Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer

™

(TOPQ5700)

❏ Rotary Tool such as Dremel

®

❏ Great Planes Double-sided Servo Tape 1" x 3'

[25x915mm] (GPMQ4442)

Covering T ools

❏ 21st Century

®

(COVR2700) or Top Flite MonoKote

®

sealing iron (TOPR2100)

❏ 21st Century (COVR2702) or Top Flite Hot Sock

™

iron cover (TOPR2175)

A .40-.46 [5.5-7.5cc] sized control line engine is

required for this plane to achieve its potential.

Crisp maneuvers will not be possible with an

underpowered engine. Stepping above the

recommended engine range may negatively

influence the flight characteristics and stability of

the Tutor II.Therefore, for maxim um enjoyment w e

recommend staying in the engine range specified.

Also, due to the speed and size of this plane, we

recommend flying on 65-70ft [20-22m] lines.

Shorter lines will increase the speed at which the

pilot turns and maneuvers will have to be

executed much more quickly.

- 3 -

KIT INSPECTION

Before starting to build, take an inv entory of this kit to

make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to

make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts

are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you

need assistance with assembly, contact Product

Support. When reporting defective or missing parts,

use the part names exactly as they are written in the

Kit Contents list on page 5.

Great Planes Product Support

3002 N Apollo Drive Suite 1

Champaign, IL 61822

Telephone: [phone]

Fax:[phone]

E-mail:

[e-mail]

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS

Replacement parts are not available from Product

Support, but can be purchased from hobby shops or

mail order/Internet order firms. Hardware items

(screws, nuts, bolts) are also available from these

outlets. If you need assistance locating a dealer to

purchase parts, visit www.greatplanes.com and

click on “Where to Buy.” If this kit is missing parts,

contact Product Support.

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

• There are two types of screws used in this kit:

Sheet metal screws are designated by a number

and a length.

For example #6 x 3/4" long [19mm]

This is a number six screw that is 3/4" [19mm] long.

Machine screws are designated by a number,

threads per inch, and a length.

For example 4-40 x 3/4" long [19mm]

This is a number four screw that is 3/4" [19.1mm]

long with forty threads per inch

.

• When you see the ter m

test fit

in the instructions, it

means that you should first position the part on the

assembly without using an y glue, then slightly modify

or

custom fit

the part as necessar y for the best fit.

• Whenever the term

glue

is written you should rely

upon your experience to decide what type of glue

to use.When a specific type of adhesive works best

for that step, the instructions will tell you what glue

is recommended.

• Whenever just

epoxy

is specified, you may use

either

30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy

or

(or optional)

6-minute epoxy. When 30-minute epoxy is specified,

it is highly recommended that you use only 30-

minute (or 45-minute) epoxy because you will need

the working time and/or the additional strength.

• Photos and sketches are placed before the

step they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in

following steps to get another view of the same parts.

Note: The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine

thrust angles have been factory-built into this

model. However, some technically-minded modelers

may wish to check these measurements anyway.

To view this information, visit the web site at

www.top-flite.com

and click on “Technical Data.”

Due to manufacturing tolerances which will hav e little

or no effect on the way the model will fly, there may

be slight deviations between your model and the

published values.

Note: Full-size plans are not available for the

Tutor II ARF.

- 4 -

- 5 -

PARTS PHOTOGRAPHED

1. Flaps

2. Wing

3. Hor izontal Stabilizer

with Elevators

4. Fuselage

5. Fin

6. Canopy

7. Main Landing Gear (2)

8. 2-1/2" [65mm] Main Wheels (2)

9. Tail Gear Wire

10. Tail Wheel

11. Fuel Tank

12. Flap Joiner Wire

13. Elevator Joiner Wire

14. 1/8" [3mm] Plywood Flap

Aligning Jig (2)

15. Spinner

PARTS NOT PHOTOGRAPHED

(2) Nylon Tie Straps

(1) 2-56 x 18" [458mm] Pushrod (Elevator)

(1) 2-56 x 6" [153mm] Pushrod (Flaps)

(2) Nylon Clevises

(6) 4-40 x 1-1/2" [38mm] Socket Head Cap

Screws (2-Main Gear, 4-Engine Mounting)

(6) 4-40 Nylon Lock Nuts (2-Main Gear, 4-Engine

Mounting)

(8) #4 Flat Washers (Gear Mounting)

(4) 5-32" [4mm] Wheel Collars (Main Wheels)

(1) 5-64" [2mm] Wheel Collar (Tail Wheel)

(5) 6-32 Set Screws (Wheel Collars)

(1) #2 x 1/2" [13mm] Screw (Pushrod Standoff)

(2) #2 x 3/4" [19mm] Machine Threaded Screws

(Flap Control Horn)

(2) #2 x 1/2" [13mm] Machine Threaded Screws

(Elevator Control Horn)

(4) #2 x 1/4" [6mm] Screws (Hatch on Wing)

(2) #2 x 5/8" [16mm] Screws (Tail Gear)

(2) Nylon Hump Straps

(1) Nylon Flat Strap

(1) Hinge Strip Material

(2) Silicone Clevis Retainers

(1) Bell Crank with Leadouts (Factory Installed)

(1) Metal Pushrod Standoff

(2) Large Nylon Control Horns with Backplates

(2) Decal Sheet

KIT CONTENTS

1

1

8

7

14

8

10

9

2

11

15

6

3

4

13

12

5

BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS

Assemble the Main Wing

❏ 1. Locate the 4" [102mm] Flap Joiner Wire. There

is a notch in the trailing edge (TE) of the wing saddle

where this wire will rest. Slide the wing in place while

holding this joiner as shown above .Be sure the hatch

in the wing is on the top.

❏ 2. Center the wing laterally (B=B). Insert a T-pin

through the top, center of the fuselage over the tail.

Tie a loop in one end of a 36" [1m] piece of non-

elastic string such as monofilament or Kevlar cable

(SULQ3223).Slip the loop in the string over the T-pin.

❏ 3. Fold a piece of masking tape over the string

near the other end and draw an arrow on it or mark

the string with a black marker. Slide the tape along

the string and align the arrow with one end of the

wing as shown in the sketch, or make a mark where

the string crosses the wing. Swing the string over to

the other end of the wing and hold it in the same

position. Keeping the trailing edge of the wing

centered from side-to-side, move the wing tips

forward or back as necessary until the arrow, or mark

aligns with both ends of the wing.

❏ 4.Once the wing is aligned, use a fine point marker

such as a Top Flite Panel Line P en to trace around the

wing. Remove the wing and joiner from the fuselage.

❏ 5.Remove the covering using a sharp, new hobby

knife or a heated soldering iron to cut the covering

from the wing 1/16" [1.6mm] inside the lines. If using

a knife, use a light touch and great care not to cut

into the sheeting under the covering or the wing will

be weakened. Using a soldering iron is preferred

because it melts through the covering without cutting

into the wood.Move the soldering iron fast enough to

melt through the covering without burning the wood.

After cutting the covering, use denatured alcohol and

a tissue to clean the ink lines from the covering.

Then, peel off the covering.

- 6 -

A=A B=B

A

B

B

A

❏ 6.Mix up a batch of 30-minute epoxy. Slide the wing

most of the way into the fuselage.Apply epoxy to the

inside of the wing saddle and to the wing where it

contacts the fuselage.Slide the wing into position with

the joiner wire. Be careful not to let epoxy come in

contact with the flap joiner wire. If you are

uncertain about the flap joiner wire, you can coat

the center of the wire with petroleum jelly to

prevent the epoxy from securing it in place. Verify

the alignment of the wing as done in step 3. Ensure

the wing remains perpendicular to the fuselage as

shown in the sketch. Use small balsa sticks and/or

paper towels and alcohol to wipe up excess epoxy.

Allow the epoxy to fully harden before proceeding.

Install the Horizontal Stabilizer

❏ 1.Remove the covering from the stab slot using a

sharp hobby knife.

❏ 2. Measure and mark the centerline of the TE of

the stab.Also mark a spot on the centerline on the aft

end of the fuse. Test fit the stab aligning the mar ks

you just made.

❏ 3. Slide the stab into position. For now, center the

stab in the fuselage as best as you can by “e y e .” Stand

approximately ten feet behind the model and view the

alignment of the stab and wing.If the stab is not parallel

with the wing, place a small weight on the “high side”of

the stab to bring it into alignment. If weight is not

enough, remove the stab from the fuselage and lightly

trim or sand the stab saddle as necessary until you can

get the stab to align with the wing.

❏ 4.Now that the stab is level with the wing, center the

trailing edge of the stab in the fuselage by measuring

from both tips to the center of the fuselage.Make sure

“A” = “A” on both sides of the stab as indicated in the

sketch.Stick pins into the stab near the trailing edge on

both sides of the fuselage. This will keep the trailing

edge of the stab centered.

❏ 5. Insert a pin through the top, center of the

fuselage on the nose of the fuselage. Tie a loop in

one end of a 36" [920mm] piece of non-elastic string

such as monofilament or Kevlar cable (SULQ3223).

Slip the loop in the string over the T-pin.

❏ 6. Fold a piece of masking tape over the string near

the other end and draw an arrow on it or mark the

string with a black marker. Slide the tape along the

string and align the arrow with one end of the stab as

shown in the sketch, or make a mark where the string

crosses the stab.Swing the string over to the other end

of the stab and hold it in the same position.Keeping the

trailing edge of the stab centered from side-to-side,

move the wing tips forward or back as necessary until

the arrow, or mark, aligns with both ends of the stab.

❏ 7.The same as was done for the wing, use a fine-

point felt-tip pen to mark the outline of the fuselage

all the way around both sides of the stab. Then, cut

and remove the covering from the center-section.

❏ 8.Mix up a small batch of 30 minute epoxy and coat

the areas that you removed co v ering from on the stab .

Slide the stab into the mounting slot. Clean up excess

epoxy with a paper towel and alcohol. Be sure to

check the alignment PRIOR to the epoxy hardening.

- 7 -

90˚

AA

AA

Attach the Elevators

❏ 1. Locate the Elevator Joiner Wire and the two

elevator halves.

❏ 2. Remove the covering from the precut groove in

the LE of the elevator halv es .Test fit the joiner wire in

both elevator halv es.The ele v ator halv es should both

lay flat with the joiner installed. If they do not, you

may “tweak” the wire to get both halves to lay flat

when joined.

❏ 3.Use a piece of wire or a toothpick to apply epoxy

in the holes and grooves in the elevators for the

joiner wire. Insert the joiner wire into both elevators.

Wipe away excess epoxy as it squeezes out.

❏ 4.Insert 3 hinges into each elevator half and install

the elevator assembly on the stab. Inser t T-pins into

the center of each hinge to keep them centered.

❏ 5. Using thin CA, glue each hinge in place. Apply

6 drops of CA on each hinge, top and bottom. After

the glue has cured, pull on the elevator halves to be

sure the hinges are glued securely in place. Apply

more CA if necessary.

❏ 6.Using masking tape, hold the elevators in place

ensuring they remain parallel to each other when

viewed from behind.

❏ 7. Allow the epoxy to fully harden on the elevator

halves before proceeding.

Attach the Fin

❏ 1.Test fit the fin. Make note of where the elevator

joiner wire comes in contact with the fin.You will need

to make a small notch to allow the elevator joiner

wire to rotate freely at this location and allow the fin

to rest flush against the fuselage for gluing. Remove

the fin and coat the notch with thin CA to fuelproof

the exposed wood.

❏ 2.Check where the fin contacts the fuselage once you

have it aligned.Mark the outline of the fin on the fuselage

and remove the covering between these marks.

❏ 3. Glue the fin in place as shown using 30 minute

epoxy.The leading edge of the fin should be centered

on the fuselage. Ensure the fin is perpendicular (at a

90° angle) to the horizontal stabilizer.Use T-Pins and

masking tape to hold the fin in place until the epoxy

fully hardens.

- 8 -

Install the Flaps

❏ 1.Without using any glue, test fit the flap to the joiner

wire and install 4 hinges. If necessary, use a hobby

knife to enlarge any hinge slots that are too tight.

❏❏2. Remove the flaps. Mix up a small batch of 30

minute epoxy. Use a piece of wire or a toothpick to

apply epoxy in the hole and groove in the flap for the

joiner wire. Join the flaps to the wing with the joiner

wire and hinges. Slide the 1/8" [3mm] Die-Cut Ply

Flap Aligning Jig over the wing and flap until it is

snug and no gaps are present. Do this for both wing

halves. Once they are in place, the aircraft can rest

on these jigs.

❏❏3. Once the epoxy has fully hardened, remove

the jigs and apply thin CA to the hinges. Do not

use accelerator.

❏❏4. View the trailing edges of the flaps from the

end of the wing.See if the flaps are parallel with each

other (have the same “up” and “down”). If necessary,

carefully “tweak” the joiner wire to align the flaps.

Connect the Flap Pushrod

❏ 1.Remove the hatch on the left wing panel so you

can see the bellcrank below.

❏ 2. Locate the 6" [152mm] 2-56 pre-bent flap

pushrod. Thread a nylon clevis approximately 14

turns onto the threaded portion. Slide a silicone clevis

retainer onto the clevis as shown.

❏ 3. Slide the pushrod through the slot provided in

the wing. It should exit in the center of this slot.

❏ 4. Insert the bent por tion of the pushrod into the

last hole on the bell crank as shown.

❏ 5. Align the control horn holes with the hinge line.

Mark the location of the holes in the base of the

control horn.Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes at these marks.

Attach the control horn and base using two #2 x 3/4"

[19mm] machine threaded screws.

- 9 -

❏ 6. Adjust the clevis on the flap pushrod so the

flaps will be centered when the bell crank is neutral.

Hint: The jigs you used to align the flaps can also be

used here to position the flaps at center and hold

them there while you adjust the flap pushrod.

Connect the clevis to the top hole in the control horn.

Slip the retainer over the clevis.

Connect the Elevator Pushrod

❏ 1.Locate the 18" [460mm] 2-56 pre-bent elevator

pushrod wire.

❏ 2.Insert the bend end into the second hole on the

flap control horn as shown.

❏ 3. Locate the white metal standoff and slide it

over the elevator pushrod. On the fuselage you will

notice a darker square showing through the covering.

In the center of this block, drill a 3/64" [1.2mm] pilot

hole. Be careful not to go all the way through the

fuselage. Attach the metal standoff to the fuselage

using one #2 x 1/2" [13mm] self-tapping screw.

❏ 4.Thread a nylon clevis and silicone retainer onto

the threaded portion of the pushrod.

❏ 5. Align the elevator control horn holes with the

hinge line as you did with the flap control horn. Mark

the location of the holes in the base of the control

horn on the elevator. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes at

these marks. Attach the control horn and base using

two #2 x 1/2" [13mm] machine threaded screws.

❏ 6.Adjust the clevis on the elevator pushrod so the

elevators will be centered when the bell crank is

neutral. Connect the clevis to the 3rd hole in the

control horn. Slip the retainer over the clevis.

❏ 7.Use four #2 x 1/4" [6mm] self-tapping screws to

attach the hatch to the opening above the bellcrank

in the wing. Remove the screws and harden the

holes with thin CA. Allow the glue to dry completely

before reinstalling the hatch.

- 10 -

4TH HOLE

2

1

3

RD HOLE

ND HOLE

ST HOLE

LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION

Install the Main Gear

❏❏1. Locate the 5/32" [4mm] landing gear wire.

❏❏2. Slide a 5/32" [4mm] wheel collar over the

axle, followed by a 2-1/2" [65mm] main wheel, then

another wheel collar.Insert a 6-32 set screw into each

wheel collar and tighten to attach the wheel as shown.

❏❏3. Remove the wheel and wheel collars and

using a rotary tool such as a Dremel

®

, grind flat spots

on the axle where the set screws will rest.

❏❏4. Reassemble the gear, using Threadlocker on

the set screws to prevent them from backing out. Add

a drop of oil to the axle to ensure the wheel spins freely .

❏❏5. Locate the two 5/32" [4mm] holes on each

side of the fuselage just forward of the main wing and

remove the covering using a shar p hobby knife.

❏❏6. Inser t one of the gear legs as shown in the

hole.The gear should point straight down Note: due

to wood possibly compressing or expanding during

shipment, you may have to widen the hole slightly to

allow the gear to seat fully.

❏❏7. Position one nylon humped landing gear

bracket at the midpoint of the gear leg. Mark the

holes on the fuselage you will need to drill.

❏❏8. Drill two 1/8" [3mm] holes at these marks all

the way through the fuselage.Wic k some thin CA into

the holes to harden them. Attach the strap to the

fuselage using two 4-40 x 1-1/2" [38mm] socket

head cap screws.On the other side of the fuselage,

slide the landing gear strap over the two socket head

cap screws and attach two 4-40 nylon locknuts to

the ends of the screws.Tighten the screws down to

hold the gear in place. Be careful not to over tighten.

- 11 -

Install the Tail Gear

❏ 1. Locate the 5/64" [2mm] tailgear wire and the

small wheel collar.

❏ 2. Mount the tail wheel to the pre-bent tail gear

wire with the small wheel collar and a 6-32 set screw .

Use Threadloc k er on the set scre w bef ore installing it

into the collar.

❏ 3. Drill a 5/64" [2mm] hole at the position shown in

the photo 6" [153mm] from the fuselage tail and 1/2"

[13mm] from the bottom of the fuselage.

❏ 4. Insert the tail gear wire as shown into the hole.

It may be necessary to trim the wire so it does not

come out the other side of the fuselage. Mix a small

batch of 30-minute epoxy and fill the hole for the tail

gear wire with epoxy and hold the tail wire in place

with tape while the epoxy hardens. Locate the nylon

gear strap. Secure the tail wire to the fuselage using

the nylon gear strap and two #2 x 5/8" [16mm] self-

tapping screws.Remove the screws and harden the

holes with thin CA.Allow the CA to harden completely

before re-installing the screws.

ENGINE INSTALLATION

❏ 1. Our test models were flown using the O.S. .40

and .46 LA C/L engines.If you choose to use another

brand of engine, you will need to test fit the engine

and mark the location of the engine mounting holes.

Be sure the front of the thrust washer clears the

fuselage.The engine mounting rails may need to be

sanded to accommodate other brands of engines.

❏ 2. If you are using an O.S. engine, the engine

mounting bolt holes have been started for you as a

guide. Locate the four holes on each side of the

fuselage by lightly rubbing the covering with your

finger and feeling for the holes. Use a T-pin to poke

the covering to verify you have found the hole.

Remove the covering from the hole using a sharp

hobby knife. Drill 1/8" [3mm] holes through the

engine mounting rails at the marks for your engine to

allow the engine mounting bolts to pass through.

Laying a small block of wood on the back side of the

fuselage when drilling will help prevent the wood

from splintering. Strengthen these holes by wicking

some thin CA into them.

❏ 3.Using four 4-40 x 1-1/2" [38mm] socket head cap

screws, 4-40 nylon lock nuts, and eight #4 washers,

mount the engine to the fuselage.

- 12 -

FUEL T ANK INST ALLA TION

Assemble the Fuel Tank

❏ 1.Remove the rubber stopper from the fuel tank.

The hardware for the fuel tank is located inside of it.

Shake the fuel tank lightly to get the hardware out.

Inside there is a fuel clunk, three aluminum tubes,

and a 3" [76mm] length of silicone fuel tubing.

NOTE: You will only use two of the metal tubes for

the control line fuel tank setup.

❏ 2. Insert two metal tubes through the openings in

the stopper assembly as shown. Be sure that the

bottom plate is on the stopper assembly when you

insert the tubes. Bend one of the tubes slightly. All

tubes except for the long bent tube should protrude

from the stopper 1/2" [13mm].The long end does not

need to be any specific length.

❏ 3.Cut the silicone fuel tubing to 2" [51mm] in length

and attach the fuel clunk.

❏ 4. Slide the stopper assembly into the fuel tank.

The bent tube should point upward.The clunk should

move freely, but rest against the back of the tank

when the stopper is in place. Make note of which of

the tubes is bent inside the tank. This will be your

vent line that is connected to the muffler.The other

line is connected to the carburetor on the engine.

Mount the Fuel Tank

❏ 1.Locate the four mounting slots for the fuel tank.

Remove the covering from these slots with a shar p

hobby knife. Wick some thin CA into the slots to

fuelproof the exposed wood.

❏ 2.Using the twon ylon tie straps pro vided, attach

the fuel tank to the fuselage.The vent line should be

towards the top of the fuselage.

Hint: A small strip of

double-sided foam tape could be used between the

fuselage and the fuel tank to help hold the fuel tank

in place.

- 13 -

TO CARB

FUEL CLUNK

TO VENT

TOP OF TANK

❏ 3. Cut 4"[102mm] and 3" [77mm] lengths of fuel

tubing. Connect the shor ter length to the carburetor

and the fuel line.The longer piece connects the vent

line to the muffler which can now be mounted.

FINAL DETAILS

Prop Installation and Control

Surface Check

❏ 1. Attach the prop and spinner to the engine.

❏ 2. Be certain that the flaps are centered when

the elevators are centered. Also be cer tain that all

the pushrods are connected and that the flaps

and elevator are operating smoothly. Make any

adjustments necessary.

Mount the Canopy

❏

1.Use scissors to cut out the canopy front and rear.

❏ 2.Test fit the canop y and trim it to the desired shape.

Be sure to leave enough overlap for the next step.

❏ 3. Mount the canopy to the fuselage with 1/4"

[6mm] white striping tape or Canopy Glue. Do not

use CA as it will attack the clear canopy, causing it to

fog over and become soft.

Apply the Decals

Prior to applying decals, use a covering iron with a

covering sock to remove any wrinkles in the covering

on the wing and flaps.The best way is to glide the iron

over the covering until the wrinkles disappear, and

then go over the area again, pushing down to bond

the covering to the wood. If the wrinkles don’t go

away, the balsa in that area may be bending inward.

If this is happening, do not press down on the iron in

that area. Simply let the heat of the iron shrink the

covering. If the wrinkles momentarily disappear, then

immediately reappear, the iron may be too hot, thus

causing air bubbles.Lower the temperature of the iron

or use a sharp #11 blade to puncture several holes in

the covering, and then reheat. The suggested iron

temperature is around 360° F

❏ 1. Use scissors or a shar p hobby knife to cut the

decals from the decal sheet. Where possible, round

the corners so they are less likely to peel up during

cleaning and handling.

- 14 -

❏ 2. Be certain the model is clean. Prepare a

dishpan or small bucket with a mixture of liquid dish

soap and warm water–about 1/2 teaspoon of soap

per gallon of water. Submerse one of the decals in

the solution and peel off the paper backing. Note:

Even though the decals have a “sticky-back” and are

not the water transfer type , submersing them in soap

and water allows accurate positioning and reduces

air bubbles underneath.

❏ 3.Position the decal on the model where desired.

Holding the decal down, use a paper towel to wipe

away most of the water.

❏ 4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar

to squeegee remaining water from under the decal.

Apply the rest of the decals the same way.

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY

Balance the Model (C.G.)

At this stage the model should be completely ready-

to-fly with all of the components installed including

the engine, muffler, propeller, spinner, landing gear

and wheels.

❏ 1.If using a Great Planes C.G.Machine to balance

the model, set the rulers to 3" [76mm]. If not using a

C.G. Machine, use a fine-point felt-tip pen or 1/8"

wide tape to accurately mark the recommended C.G.

(center of gravity, or “balance point”) on the bottom of

the wing 3" [76mm] back from the leading edge on

both sides of the fuselage.

❏ 2. Place the model on a Great Planes CG

Machine, or lift it at the balance point you marked on

both sides of the fuselage. Note whether the nose or

tail drops. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy”

and weight must be added to the nose to balance.If,

howev er, the nose drops, then weight must be added

to the tail to balance.

❏ 3.Add nose or tail weight to balance the model.If

nose weight is required it may be added by using a

“spinner weight” (GPMQ4645 for the 1 oz. [30g]

weight, or GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz. [55g] weight) or

Great Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead which

may be added to the nose.If tail weight is required it

may be placed on the right side of the fuselage

(opposite the muffler) under the stabilizer.

NOTE: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of

the lead weight to permanently hold it in place. Over

time, fuel and exhaust residue ma y soften the adhesive

and cause the weight to fall off. Use #2 sheet metal

screws, RTV silicone or epoxy to permanently hold the

weight in place.

Balance the Propeller

Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers

before you fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single

most significant cause of vibration that can damage

your model.Not only will engine mounting screws and

bolts loosen, possibly with disastrous effect, but

vibration can also cause your fuel to foam, which will,

in turn, cause your engine to run hot or quit.

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer

™

(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes

Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.

Engine Check

If the engine is new , follow the engine manufacturer’s

instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in,

confirm that the engine runs reliably and smoothly

and maintains full power indefinitely. After you run

the engine on the model, inspect the model closely

to make sure all screws remained tight, the hinges

are secure and the prop is secure.

Control Check

With the lines connected to the lead-outs and your

assistant holding the model, operate the controls to

make sure they move smoothly. If any binding or

hesitation is detected, inspect the model and

eliminate the problem.

Adjust Leadouts

The Top Flite Tutor II ARF is equipped with adjustable

leadouts. The lines can be adjusted by means of a

Phillips head set screw located inside the slot provided

for the lead outs.The leadouts can be loosened, then

slid fore and aft.When they are in place , tighten the set

screw down to prevent the leadouts from moving back

and forth in flight.You should also check the leadouts

after each flight, making sure each screw is tight.

IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add

any weight, recheck the C.G. after the weight

has been installed.

The C.G. range for the Top Flite Tutor II ranges

2-3/4" [70mm] to 3-3/8" [83mm] from the LE.

The recommended starting C.G. is 3" [76mm]

back from the LE of the wing at the fuselage.

This is the midpoint of the C.G.range specified.

- 15 -

As a general guideline, positioning the leadouts further

aft makes plane pull harder on lines (for windy days),

but also makes plane “handle” or react a little slower.

This positioning is recommended for less-powerful

engines or longer lines and is also a good way to

counter the effect of having not enough wing tip weight.

Further forward makes plane pull less hard on lines,

thus quickening response. This can be better for

calm days, better f or f aster , more pow erful engines or

shorter lines. It is also a way to counter the effect of

having too much wing tip weight.

The exact placement of these leadouts will be a matter

of experimentation to match your flying style;however ,

we recommend centering the two leadouts in their

slots as a starting point.

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high

heat, sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable.Do

not smoke near the engine or fuel; and remember

that engine exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly

carbon monoxide.Therefore , do not run the engine in

a closed room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to

operate engines.

Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.

Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or

sand; the propeller may throw such material in your

face or eyes.

Keep your face and body as well as all spectators

away from the plane of rotation of the propeller as

you start and run the engine.

Keep these items aw a y from the prop:loose clothing,

shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects

such as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of

shirt or jacket pockets into the prop.

Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to star t the

engine. Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller.

Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is

secure so that it will not pop off or otherwise get into

the running propeller.

Make all engine adjustments from behind the

rotating propeller.

The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right

after operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good

condition so fuel will not leak onto a hot engine,

causing a fire.

To stop the engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing

off the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s

recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any

other body part to try to stop the engine .Do not throw

anything into the propeller of a running engine.

AMA SAFETY CODE (EXCERPTS)

Read and abide by the following Academy of Model

Aeronautics Official Safety Code:

General

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned e vents ,

air shows, or model flying demonstrations until it

has been proven to be airworthy by having been

previously successfully flight tested.

3.Where established, I will abide by the safety rules

for the flying site I use, and I will not willfully and

deliberately fly my models in a careless, reckless

and/or dangerous manner.

5. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with

my name and address or AMA number, on or in

the model.

7. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any

device that explodes , burns, or propels a projectile

of any kind).

8. I will not consume alcoholic bev erages prior to , nor

during, participation in any model operations.

9. Children under 6 years old are only allowed on the

flight line as a pilot or while under flight instruction.

Control Line

1. I will subject my complete control system (including

safety thong, where applicable) to an inspection

and pull test prior to flying. Pull test will be in

accordance with the current Competition

Regulations for applicable model category. Models

not fitting a specific category as detailed shall use

those pull test requirements for Control Line

Precision Aerobatics.

2. I will assure that my flying area is safely clear of all

utility wires or poles.

3. I will assure that my flying area is safely clear of all

non-essential participants and spectators before

permitting my engine to be started.

4. I will not fly a model closer than 50 feet [15m] to

any electrical power line.

- 16 -

CHECKLIST

❏ 1.Make sure areas exposed to fuel or exhaust

residue have been fuel proofed.

❏ 2. Check the C .G.according to the measurements

and procedure provided in the manual.

❏ 3. Use thread-locking compound on the set scre ws

in the wheel collars that hold on the wheels.

❏ 4. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will

turn freely.

❏ 5.Mak e sure all hinges are securely glued in place.

❏ 6.Use thin CA to harden all screw holes

throughout the airplane.

❏ 7. Confirm that the flaps and elevators operate

freely and smoothly by pulling on the lead-outs.

❏ 8. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and

are not kinked.

❏ 9. Balance your propeller and spare propellers.

❏ 10.Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.

❏ 11. Place your name, address, AMA number and

telephone number on your model.

❏ 12. If you wish to photograph your model, do so

before the first flight.

FLYING

Preflight

NOTE: The Top Flite Tutor II ARF is not a beginner’s

model. It is intended for beginning to advanced stunt

pilots who have had some previous control line

experience. If you are an inexperienced pilot, seek

the assistance of a knowledgeable control line pilot

who can help you with your first flights.

Beginning stunt pilots should make their first flights in

calm or low wind conditions. Stronger winds may

blow the model inward which will decrease line

tension resulting in loss of control.If the lines ever do

go slack, quickly step back to tighten the lines and

regain control. Of course, this is most likely to

happen, and should be expected, as the model

approaches the upwind half of the circle.

Place the model and starting equipment where the wind

will be behind the model when it is released for takeoff.

For the first half-circle (during the brief period when

the pilot has the least control before the model is “up

to speed”) the wind will push the model outward to

maintain line tension.

Mark the center of the flying circle with paint, chalk or

a suitable object (such as a shop towel) so you won’t

wander.This is especially important if the flying area

is limited.

With your assistant holding the model, walk from the

model toward the handle in the center of the circle

while using your fingers to keep the lines separated.

This will ensure that the lines are not twisted and are

free to operate the controls.

While the pilot is holding the lines, the assistant should

walk the model once around the circle to be certain

the flight path is clear and to double-check that there

are no obstructions that could snag the lines.

The pilot should double-check the operation of the

controls by pulling and pushing on the handle and

having the assistant signal what the controls are doing

(“up” and “down”).

Takeoff

When both the pilot and assistant are ready , the model

may be fueled and started.Once the engine is running

and the model is ready to be released, the assistant

should point the nose of the model slightly away from

the inside of the circle.This will help keep the lines taut

for the first few feet until the model gets going.

Upon the pilot’s signal, the assistant may release the

model–never push the model forward as doing so

may result in a crash.

The pilot should be ready–especially during takeoff–to

briefly step back to maintain line tension until the

model has gained enough air speed to achieve line

tension on its own.Allow the model to roll out and gain

enough speed to become airborne. When enough

speed has been gained, the pilot may raise his arm

slightly, giving “up” elevator command, thus allowing

the model to leave the ground.

Once the model has lifted, maintain a slow and steady

climb until a comfortable altitude has been reached

(usually between “eye-level” and approximately ten

feet in the air).The lines must remain taut throughout

the entire flight. If the lines ever do go slack, the pilot

will not have control of the model. During most

situations the model’s f actory built-in features will allow

it to maintain good line tension, but on occasions

when the wind blows the model inward or the model

becomes too slow the modeler must anticipate or

notice a decrease in “pull” and quickly step backward

to tighten the lines and regain control.

To climb, the pilot will slowly raise his arm.T o descend,

the pilot will slowly lower his arm. To maintain level

flight the pilot will hold his arm horizontally. Beginning

- 17 -

Pilot

Takeoff

Spot

Direction

Wind

pilots should control the model by keeping their arms

straight and bending at the elbow with little or no wrist

movement. Later, when they become more

experienced, wrist movement may be increased to

increase control response.All control inputs should be

smooth. Continue flying the model in a level attitude,

getting used to how the controls react and how the

model “feels.”Do this until the engine r uns out of fuel.

Actual flight time depends on several factors, such as

the engine size and brand, needle valve setting,

propeller size, fuel, atmospheric conditions, etc., but

you can expect flight times around 7-8 minutes.

Landing

When the engine starts to sputter and/or speed up,

this is an indication that the tank is nearly empty.

Continue to fly the model in a level attitude until the

engine finally quits.The same as any time the model

slows, the pilot should step back to k eep the lines taut

and maintain control.Allow the model to descend until

it is about two feet off the ground. When the model

has lost nearly all flying speed and is a foot or two

from the ground, the pilot should raise his arm to keep

the lines taut and apply full up elevator, allowing the

model to gently touch down.

After the model has come to a stop the assistant may

retrieve the model and return it to the starting area.

In doing so the lines should be kept taut so they do

not become twisted or entangled.

Clean the model using paper towels and household

cleaner to wipe off exhaust residue. Inspect the

model thoroughly, looking for loose fasteners and

signs of damage or fatigue.Also make sure the prop

has not been damaged. Perform any maintenance

necessary to prepare the model for the next flight.

At the end of the flying session any unspent fuel

should be drained from the tank.

After you have become familiar with the way your

Tutor II ARF flies and you are ready to begin

performing stunts, seek the assistance of an

experienced stunt pilot before attempting to learn new

maneuvers on your own.Almost any control line stunt

maneuvers are started with the model downwind from

the pilot, i.e.wind on the pilot's back.Consult the AMA

Control Line section for stunt maneuvers.

One final note about flying your model:Have a goal or

flight plan in mind for ev ery flight.This can be learning

a new maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) you

already know, or learning how the model behaves in

certain conditions (such as when testing different

propellers or fuel). This is not necessarily to improve

your skills (though it is never a bad idea!), but more

importantly so you do not surprise yourself by

impulsively attempting a maneuver and suddenly

finding that you’ve run out of time, altitude or

airspeed. Ever y maneuver should be deliberate, not

impulsive. For example, if you’re going to do a loop,

check your altitude and mind the wind direction. A

flight plan greatly reduces the chances of crashing

your model just because of poor planning and

impulsive moves. Remember to think!

Have a ball, keep the lines taut and always fly in

a safe manner.

GOOD LUCK, GREAT FLYING, AND HAVE FUN!

O.S. Engines

®

.40 LA-S Control Line Engine with Muffler

(OSMG1440)

.46 LA-S Control Line Engine with Muffler

(OSMG1446)

The O.S..40 and .46 LA-S offer the proven power of

LA Series R/C sport engines – but are engineered for

the special requirements of control line flying,

replacing the carburetor with a venturi that keeps the

engine running at a constant speed. A remotely

mounted needle valve keeps your hands safely

distanced from the spinning prop during adjustments.

An O-ring helps seal the needle against fuel and air

leaks, while heavy-duty webbing reinforces the blue-

finish, one-piece crankcase in high-stress areas.

Includes E-3030 muffler, muffler mounting screws,

#A3 glow plug, and 2-year warranty.Fuel with 10-20%

nitro and 18% oil content recommended.

- 18 -

- 19 -

AMA STUNT MANEUVERS

Here are some of the AMA Stunt Maneuvers. Refer

to the AMA Rule Book for full descriptions.

Takeoff

Reverse Wingovers

Consecutive Inside Loops

Inverted Flight

Consecutive Outside Loops

Consecutive Inside Square Loops

Consecutive Outside Square Loops

Consecutive Inside Triangular Loops

Horizontal Eights

FLIGHT LOG

DATE COMMENTS

Started Assembly

Finished Assembly

First Flight

First Loop

First Inverted Flight

First Wingover