Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of
SPECIFICATIONS
Wingspan
:
64.5 in [1640mm]
purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the
Wing Area:
722 sq in [46.6 dm2]
right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
Weight:
9.75– 10 lb
[4420– 4530 g]
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
Wing
Loading:
31–32 oz/sq ft
[95–98 g/dm
2
]
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is
advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the
defective part or item to Hobby
Services at this address:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822 USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime
Length:
Radio:5-6 channel with 7-8 servos
Engine:.60–.91 cu in
telephone number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the
purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
TopFlite is well known for the quality and scale detail
provided with our kits. Now you can have that same
quality and detail in an ARF that can be completed in
as little as 15-20 hours! Beautifully covered in TopFlite
MonoKote® with expertly painted fi berglass parts, the
P-40 Warhawk will surely be the focus of attention
at the fl ying fi eld. In addition, the P-40 includes
economical fi xed landing gear, but is designed so that
the optional pneumatic retract set made specifi cally
for TopFlite warbirds is a drop in installation.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections
to the P-40 Warhawk ARF visit the Top Flite web site
at www.top-fl ite.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, then
select the P-40 Warhawk ARF. If there is new technical
information or changes to this model a “tech notice”
box will appear in the upper left corner of the page.
AMA
We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model
Aeronautics) and a local R/C club. The AMA is the
governing body of model aviation and membership is
required to fl y at AMA clubs. Though joining the AMA
provides many benefi ts, one of the primary reasons
to join is liability protection. Coverage is not limited to
fl ying at contests or on the club fi eld. It even applies to
fl ying at public demonstrations and air shows. Failure
to comply with the Safety Code (excerpts printed in the
back of the manual) may endanger insurance coverage.
Additionally, training programs and instructors are
available at AMA club sites to help you get started the
right way. There are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs
across the country. Contact the AMA at the address or
toll-free phone number below:
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Ph. (800) 435-9262 Or via the Internet at:
Fax (765) 741-0057 http://www.modelaircraft.org
2
Page 3
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things
you can do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft
hobby are to avoid fl ying near full-scale aircraft and
avoid fl ying near or over groups of people.
PROTECT YOUR MODEL,
YOURSELF & OTHERS…
FOLLOW THESE IMPORT ANT
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
1. Your P-40 Warhawk ARF should not be considered
a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that
functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because of
its performance capabilities, the P-40, if not assembled
and operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to
yourself or spectators and damage to property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as
doing so may result in an unsafe or unfl yable model.
In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from
the photos. In those instances the written instructions
should be considered as correct.
3. You must take time to build straight, true and
strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in fi rstclass condition, and a correctly sized engine and
components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the
building process.
5. You must correctly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates correctly on
the ground and in the air.
6. You must check the operation of the model before
every fl ight to insure that all equipment is operating
and that the model has remained structurally sound. Be
sure to check clevises or other connectors often and
replace them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.
7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not
fl own this type of model before, we recommend that
you get the assistance of an experienced pilot in your
R/C club for your fi rst fl ights. If you’re not a member
of a club, your local hobby shop has information
about clubs in your area whose membership includes
experienced pilots.
8. While this kit has been fl ight tested to exceed
normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely
high stress fl ying, such as racing, or if an engine larger
than one in the recommended range is used, the
modeler is responsible for taking steps to reinforce the
high stress points and/or substituting hardware more
suitable for the increased stress.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top
quality, thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but
ultimately the quality and fl yability of your fi nished
model depends on how you build it; therefore, we
cannot in any way guarantee the performance of
your completed model, and no representations are
expressed or implied as to the performance or safety
of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow the
instructions to end up with a well-built model that is
straight and true.
Before starting to build, compare the parts in this model
with the Parts List and note any missing parts. Also
inspect all parts to make sure they are of acceptable
quality. If any parts are missing, broken or defective,
or if you have any questions about building or fl ying
this airplane, please contact Top Flite at the address
or telephone number below. If requesting replacement
parts, please provide the full model name (P-40
Warhawk ARF) and the part numbers as listed in the
Parts List.
Top Flite Product Support
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1 Ph: (217) 398-8970
Champaign, IL 61822 Fax: (217) 398-7721
E-mail: productsupport@top-fl ite.com
3
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
This is a partial list of items required to fi nish the P-40
Warhawk ARF that may require planning or decision
making before starting to build. Order numbers are
provided in parentheses.
BUILDING STAND
A building stand or cradle comes in very handy
during the build. We use the Robart Super Stand II
(ROBP1402) for most of our projects in R&D, and it
can be seen in pictures throughout this manual.
RADIO EQUIPMENT
A minimum 5-channel radio system with a standard
receiver and seven standard size servos with a
minimum torque of 50 oz-in [3.6 kg-cm] are required
for the control surfaces of the P-40 Warhawk ARF. If
installing optional pneumatic retracts, a standard
torque servo such as a Futaba S3003 will also be
required. One standard torque servo is required for
the throttle. A receiver battery pack with a minimum
capacity of 1000mAh is recommended. Order numbers
are provided below:
❍ Futaba® S9001 Servo Aircraft Coreless BB
(FUTM0075)
❍ Futaba S3003 Servo Standard (FUTM0031)
Page 4
❍ Futaba NR4RB Receiver NiCd 4.8V
1000mAh J (FUTM1380)
OR
❍ Hobbico® HydriMax™ 4-Cell 4.8V 2000mAh
NiMH Flat AA Rx U (HCAM6321)
If you have a radio system with enough available
channels to mix the fl ap and aileron servos together,
then you will need two 16" [406mm] servo extensions
to connect the aileron servos directly to the receiver
and you will need two 12" [305mm] servo extensions
to connect the fl ap servos directly to the receiver:
❍ Futaba Servo Extension 16" J (FUTM3955)
❍ Hobbico Extension 12" Futaba J (HCAM2100)
If you plan to connect the aileron and fl ap servos
together using Y-harnesses then you will need two 12"
[305mm] servo extensions for the ailerons and two 6"
[152mm] servo extensions for the fl ap servos. You will
also need two Y-harnesses:
❍ Hobbico Extension 12" Futaba J (HCAM2100)
❍ Hobbico Extension 6" Futaba J (HCAM2000)
❍ Futaba 6" Dual Servo Extension J (FUTM4130)
ENGINE RECOMMENDATIONS
A .60-.91 cu in [10-15cc] two-stroke or .90-1.20 [15-
20cc] four-stroke engine is required. An O.S. FS-91
Surpass™ II four-stroke engine installation is shown in
this manual.
❍ O.S.® FS-91 II Surpass (OSMG0896)
An optional 90° header for the O.S. FS-91 engine is
shown in the engine installation section:
❍ O.S. Exhaust Manifold Inside FS-70/FS-91
(OSMG2624)
LANDING GEAR OPTIONS
The P-40 Warhawk ARF includes fi xed wire landing
gear. Optional pneumatic retracts can also be
installed. The part number for the pneumatic retract
set is provided below:
❍ 90° Retract Landing Gear Set (TOPQ7955)
Optional Robart parts:
❍ 615 100 Degree Rotating Mains (2) (ROBQ1815)
❍ 188VR Standard Air Control Kit (ROBQ2302)
❍ 190 Air Line Quick Disconnects (ROBQ2395)
❍ Great Planes Wire Axle 2x3/16" (2) (GPMQ4282)
❍ Optional: 650 Straight RoboStrut (ROBQ1700)
SCALE COMPETITION
Though the Top Flite P-40 Warhawk ARF may not have
the same level of detail as an “all-out” scratch-built
competition model, it is a scale model nonetheless
and is therefore eligible to compete in the Fun Scale
class in AMA competition (we receive many favorable
reports of Top Flite models in scale competition!). To
receive the fi ve points for scale documentation, the
only proof required that a full size aircraft of this type
in your paint/markings scheme did exist is a single
sheet such as a kit box cover from a plastic model,
a photo, or a profi le painting, etc. If the photo is in
black and white other written documentation of color
must be provided. Contact the AMA for a rule book
with full details.
If you would like photos of the full-size P-40 Warhawk
for scale documentation, or if you would like to study
the photos to add more scale details, photo packs are
available from:
Bob’s Aircraft Documentation
3114 Yukon Ave
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
Ph: (714) 979-8058 Or via the Internet at:
Fax: (714) 979-7279 www.bobsairdoc.com
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
HARDWARE AND ACCESSORIES
In addition to the items listed in the “Decisions Y ou
Must Make” section, following is the list of hardware
and accessories required to fi nish the P-40 Warhawk
ARF. Order numbers are provided in parentheses.
4
❍ R/C foam rubber (1/4" [6mm] - HCAQ1000, or
1/2" [13mm] - HCAQ1050)
❍ 3' [900mm] standard silicone fuel tubing
(GPMQ4131)
❍ Great Planes Velcro
®
Hook & Loop (GPMQ4480)
ADHESIVES AND BUILDING SUPPLIES
In addition to common household tools (screw drivers,
drill, etc.), this is the “short list” of the most important
items required to build the P-40 Warhawk ARF. We
recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy glue.
❍ 1/2 oz. [15g] Thin Pro CA (GPMR6001)
❍ Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
❍ Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 5/64" [2mm], 3/32"
[2.4mm]
❍ 8-32 tap and drill set (GPMR8103)
❍ Great Planes Pro Threadlocker (GPMR6060)
❍ #1 Light Duty Aluminum Handle Knife w/Blade
Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual
that will help you build the P-40 Warhawk ARF.
❍ 21st Century® sealing iron (COVR2700)
❍ 21st Century iron cover (COVR2702)
❍ 21st Century trim seal iron (COVR2750)
❍ 1/2 oz. [15g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6007)
❍ 1/2 oz. [15g] Thick Pro CA- (GPMR6013)
❍ Pro 6-minute epoxy (GPMR6045)
❍ Stick-on segmented lead weights (GPMQ4485)
Page 5
❍ 2 oz. [57g] spray CA activator (GPMR6035)
❍ 4 oz. [113g] aerosol CA activator (GPMR6034)
❍ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❍ CA debonder (GPMR6039)
❍ Epoxy brushes 6, (GPMR8060)
❍ Mixing sticks (GPMR8055)
❍ Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
❍ Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0630)
❍ Compressed Air 10 oz (TAEC1060)
❍ Microballoons (TOPR1090)
❍ Switch & Charge Jack Mounting Set
(GPMM1000)
❍ Ernst Charge Receptacle Futaba J (ERNM3001)
❍ Rotary tool such as Dremel
❍ Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8020)
❍ Servo horn drill (HCAR0698)
❍ Hobby Heat™ micro torch (HCAR0750)
❍ Dead Center™ Engine Mount Hole Locator
(GPMR8130)
❍ AccuThrow™ Defl ection Gauge (GPMR2405)
❍ CG Machine™ (GPMR2400)
❍ Great Planes Heat Shrink Tubing 3/8x3" (3)
(GPMM1060)
❍ Ernst Security Clips Universal (2) (ERNM3035)
❍ Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer (TOPQ5700)
❍ Hobbico Flexible 18" Ruler Stainless Steel
(HCAR0460)
❍ Hobbico Pin Vise 1/16 Collet w/6 Bits
(HCAR0696)
❍ Hobbico 8-Piece Ball Tip Hex L Wrench SAE
(HCAR0520)
❍ Hobbico 7-Piece Ball Tip Hex L Wrench Metric
(HCAR0521)
❍ Great Planes Precision Prop Reamer Standard
(GPMQ5006)
❍ Great Planes Precision Prop Reamer Metric
(GPMQ5007)
❍ Great Planes Clevis Installation Tool
(GPMR8030)
®
❍ X-Acto
❍ Woodland Scenics Low Temp Foam Glue Gun
(WOOU1445)
®
Extra Hands Double Clip (XACR4214)
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
● There are two types of screws used in this kit:
Sheet Metal Screws are designated by a number
and a length. For example #6 x 3/4" [19mm].
This is a number six screw
that is 3/4" [19mm] long.
Machine Screws are designated by a number,
threads per inch, and a length. For example
4-40 x 3/4" [19mm].
This is a number four screw
that is 3/4" [19mm] long
with forty threads per inch.
●When you see the term test fi t in the instructions, it
means that you should fi rst position the part on the
assembly without using any glue, then slightly
modify or custom fi t the part as necessary for the
best fi t.
●Whenever the term glue is written you should rely
upon your experience to decide what type of glue
to use. When a specifi c type of adhesive works
best for that step, the instructions will make a
recommendation.
●Whenever just epoxy is specifi ed you may use
either 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute
epoxy. When 30-minute epoxy is specifi ed it is
highly recommended that you use only 30-minute
(or 45-minute) epoxy, because you will need the
working time and/or the additional strength.
●Photos and sketches are placed before the
step they refer to. Frequently you can study
photos in following steps to get another view of
the same parts.
5
KIT INSPECTION
Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit
to make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to
make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts
are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you
need assistance with assembly, contact Product Support. When reporting defective or missing parts,
use the part names exactly as they are written in the
Kit Contents list.
Replacement parts for the Top Flite P-40 Warhawk
ARF are available using the order numbers in the
Replacement Parts List that follows. The fastest,
most economical service can be provided by your
hobby dealer or mail-order company. Not all parts
are available separately. Replacement parts are not
available from Product Support, but can be purchased
from hobby shops or mail order/Internet order fi rms.
Hardware items (screws, nuts, bolts) are also available
from these outlets.
To locate a hobby dealer, visit www.top-fl ite.com
and click on “Where to Buy”. Follow the instructions
provided on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian or
International dealer.
Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby
Services by calling (217) 398-0007, or via facsimile
at (217) 398-7721, but full retail prices and shipping
and handling charges will apply. Illinois and Nevada
residents will also be charged sales tax. If ordering
via fax, include a Visa® or MasterCard® number and
expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders Hobby Services
and payments by 3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
personal check to: Champaign IL 61822
Page 6
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as
listed in the Replacement Parts List. Payment by
credit card or personal check only; no C.O.D.
If additional assistance is required for any reason
contact Product Support by e-mail at productsupport@
top-fl ite.com, or by telephone at (217) 398-8970.
KIT CONTENTS
REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST
Order
Number
TOPA1770
TOPA1771
TOPA1772
TOPA1773
TOPA1774
TOPA1775
TOPA1776
TOPA1777
TOPA1778
TOPA1779
TOPA1780
TOPQ7955
Description
Fuselage
Wing
Tail Set
Cowl
Cockpit Kit
Decals
Canopy
Spinner
Dummy Exhaust Set
Landing Gear Wires
Retract Covers
90 Degree Retract Landing Gear
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS
Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer
Fin = Vertical Stabilizer
LE = Leading Edge
TE = Trailing Edge
" = Inches
mm = Millimeters
SHCS = Socket Head Cap Screw
mAh = Milliamp Hours (refers to the
usable capacity of a battery)
To convert inches to millimeters, multiply inches
by 25.4 (25.4mm = 1")
20
5
4
6
2
16
1
19
18
17
15
1. L/R Wing Panels w/ Ailerons & Flaps
2. Horizontal Stabilizer
3. L/R Elevator Halves
4. Rudder
5. Fuselage
6. Canopy
7. Main Wheels
8. L/R Fixed Landing Gear
9. Fixed Landing Gear Blocks
10. L/R Retract Covers
11
21
14
10
8
12
9
13
12. Headrest
13. Instrument Panel
14. L/R Cockpit Side Panels
15. Cockpit Floor
16. Fuel Tank
17. Engine Mount
18. Cowl
19. Spinner
20. Belly Pan
21. Pilot Seat
3
7
11. L/R Landing Gear Mounting Boxes
6
Page 7
PREPARATIONS
1. If you have not done so already, remove the
❏
major parts of the kit from the box and inspect for
damage. If any parts are damaged or missing, contact
Product Support at the address or telephone number
listed in the “Kit Inspection” section on page 5.
2. Carefully remove the tape and separate all the
❏
control surfaces. Use a covering iron with a covering
sock on medium/high heat to tighten the covering if
necessary. Apply pressure over sheeted areas to
thoroughly bond the covering to the wood.
ASSEMBLE THE WING
HINGE THE AILERONS & FLAPS
You can do the right wing fi rst so your work matches
the photos the fi rst time through, or you can work on
them together.
1. Test fi t the included hinge points into the pre-
❏ ❏
drilled pockets in the fl ap. Press the hinge points into
the pockets with the pins in the hinge points aligned
parallel with the hinge line on the fl ap. Push the hinge
points as far deep as they can fi t into the pockets in
the fl ap. Work the hinge up and down in the pocket. Be
sure that the hinges move freely inside the pocket. If
there is any interference, use a hobby knife to slightly
enlarge the pocket as necessary.
7
2. Fit the fl ap to the wing panel by inserting the
❏ ❏
other ends of the hinge points into the pockets in the
wing trailing edge. Position the fl ap so that there is
a 1/16" [1.6mm] gap between the fl ap trailing edge
and the edge of the recessed area in the wing as
shown. Work the fl ap up and down to ensure smooth
movement.
Page 8
3. Remove the fl ap from the wing panel and pull
❏ ❏
the hinge points from the pockets. Coat the center of
each hinge point with petroleum jelly or oil. This will
prevent epoxy from sticking to the pivoting portion of
the hinges.
Before performing steps 4 and 5, have denatured
alcohol and some paper towel pieces ready for epoxy
cleanup.
5. Coat one end of each hinge point with epoxy.
❏ ❏
Insert the hinges into the pockets in the fl ap. Use a
clean toothpick to scrape out any excess epoxy that
may have squeezed out the pocket.
edge for excess epoxy. Position the fl ap in the recess
as was done in step #2. When satisfi ed, set the wing
aside and allow the epoxy to cure undisturbed.
1" [25 mm]
3/4" [19mm]
Trim the Corners
7. Cut the included 2" x 9" [51mm x 229mm]
❏ ❏
piece of CA hinge material into 3/4" x 1" [19mm x
25mm] individual hinges. Use a hobby knife or scissors
to trim the corners from each hinge to make them
easier to insert into the hinge slots.
4. Mix up a batch of 30-minute epoxy. Use a
❏ ❏
toothpick or something similar to coat the insides of
the hinge point pockets in the fl ap and the wing panel.
Wipe away any excess epoxy from around the pockets
using a paper towel dampened with alcohol.
6. Coat the other end of each hinge point with
❏ ❏
epoxy. Slowly join the fl ap to the wing while wiping away
any excess epoxy that squeezes out of the pockets.
When the hinge points are all the way inserted into the
wing, defl ect the fl ap downward and check the leading
8
Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole
1/2" [13mm] deep, in the center
of the hinge slot.
Cut the covering
away from the slot.
8. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole 1/2" [13mm] deep
❏ ❏
in the center of each hinge slot in the wing panel and
Page 9
aileron. Use a sharp hobby knife to carefully cut away
the covering just around each hinge slot.
Temporary pin
to keep the hinge
centered.
10. Fit the aileron to the hinges and center it in
❏ ❏
the opening. Remove the pins from the hinges and
position the aileron against the TE of the wing panel.
The hinge gap between the aileron and wing should
only be wide enough to allow a small line of light
through. When satisfi ed, apply 6 drops of thin CA glue
to the center of each hinge on both sides. When the
CA has dried, gently pull on the aileron to confi rm that
it is securely glued in place.
2. Attach a 12" [305mm] servo extension to the
❏ ❏
aileron servo and secure the connector using tape,
heat shrink tubing (not included), or clips specifi cally
made for that purpose (Note: If you plan to connect
the aileron extensions directly to the receiver without
using a Y-harness, you will need servo extensions at
least 16" [406mm] in length). Center the servo with
your radio system and install the servo arm to the
servo perpendicular to the servo case as shown. Be
sure to reinstall the servo arm screw into the servo.
Install the grommets and eyelets that came packaged
with the servo.
9. Fit a CA hinge into each hinge slot in the wing
❏ ❏
panel. If the hinges are diffi cult to install, use a hobby
knife to slightly enlarge the slots. Push a pin (T-pins
work well for this) through the middle of each hinge to
keep them centered.
11. Repeat steps 1-10 for the left wing panel.
❏
MOUNT THE SERV OS
Enlarge to
5/64" [2mm]
Cut off
unused arms
1. Cut three arms from a four-armed servo arm
❏ ❏
included with the aileron servo. Enlarge the outer hole
of the remaining arm with a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit.
9
3. Center the aileron servo onto the underside
❏ ❏
of the aileron servo hatch cover. The servo arm should
be centered in the opening. Place a 3/4" x 3/4" x 5/16"
[19mm x 19mm x 8mm] hardwood servo mounting
blocks on each side of the servo against the servo
mounting tabs. Use a pencil to mark the positions of
the blocks onto the cover.
Page 10
4. Remove the servo from the hatch cover and
❏ ❏
use epoxy to glue the blocks to the hatch cover.
5. When the epoxy is fully cured, position the
❏ ❏
servo against the underside of the aileron servo hatch
cover between the mounting blocks. Place a piece of
paper folded several times between the servo and
the hatch cover to space the servo away from the
hatch cover. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the
mounting tabs on the servo case into the blocks.
Thread a servo mounting screw (included with the
servo) into each hole and back it out. Remove the
piece of paper and apply a drop of thin CA to each
hole to harden the wood. When the CA has dried,
install the servo onto the hatch cover using the
hardware supplied with the servo.
6. Use the strings taped inside the aileron servo
❏ ❏
hatches to pull the servo leads through the wing ribs.
7. Drill a hole into the wing through each hole in
❏ ❏
the hatch cover using a 1/16" [1.6mm] drill bit. Thread
a #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] self-tapping screw into each hatch
mounting hole and back it out. Apply a drop of thin CA
to each hole to harden the wood. Install the aileron
hatch cover to the wing as shown using four #2 x 3/8"
[9.5mm] self-tapping screws and four #2 fl at washers.
8. Mount the fl ap servo and hatch cover in the
❏ ❏
same way. If using a Y-harness, the fl ap servo requires
a 6" [152mm] servo extension. If you plan to connect
the fl ap servo directly to the receiver, install a 12"
[305mm] extension.
10
Page 11
9. Repeat steps 1-8 for the left wing panel. Make
❏
note that the fl ap servo arm will be mounted pointing
toward the wing tip side of the left wing panel so that
when the fl ap servos are joined together using a
Y-harness, they will both move in the same direction.
INST ALL THE AILERON
AND FLAP PUSHRODS
2. Position the control horn over the plywood
❏ ❏
plate in the aileron (if you cannot see it, hold the
aileron at a shallow angle in good lighting or use a
small pin to puncture the covering) using the position
of the servo arm as a guide. Align the holes in the
control horn directly over the aileron hinge line and
mark the location of the control horn mounting holes.
2-56 (.074")
Pushrod Wire
Servo Horn
FasLink
1/16"
[1.6mm]
1. Thread a 2-56 nut and a metal clevis 15
❏ ❏
complete turns onto a 4" [102mm] pushrod. Slide a
silicone clevis retainer onto the clevis and connect the
clevis to the outer hole of a nylon control horn.
CORRECTINCORRECT
Hinge LineHinge Line
3. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes at the marks you
❏ ❏
made through the plywood plate. Do not drill all the
way through the aileron! Thread a #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm]
self-tapping screw through each hole and back it out.
Apply a couple drops of thin CA glue to each hole to
harden the wood. When the glue has dried, install
the control horn onto the aileron using two #2 x 3/8"
[9.5mm] self-tapping screws.
11
4. Use tape or a small clamp to hold the aileron
❏ ❏
in the neutral position. Make a mark on the pushrod
where it crosses the outer hole in the servo arm.
Make a 90° bend at the mark on the pushrod and
cut off the excess pushrod 1/4" [6mm] beyond the
bend. Attach the pushrod to the servo arm using a
nylon FasLink™. Thread the clevis up or down on the
pushrod as necessary to center the aileron with the
servo arm centered. When satisfi ed, apply a drop
Page 12
of threadlocking compound onto the threads behind
the clevis and tighten the 2-56 nut against it. Slide
the silicone clevis retainer to the end of the clevis to
secure it.
FINISH THE WING
1. Thoroughly coat the inside of both landing gear
❏
pockets in the wings with 30 minute epoxy. Fit the
plywood landing gear mounting boxes into the pockets
(there is a left and a right box) and allow the epoxy to
cure undisturbed.
5. Trim a control horn as shown for installation
❏ ❏
onto the fl ap. Install the control horn inline with the fl ap
servo arm onto the fl ap using two #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm]
self-tapping screws. Be sure that the holes in the
control horn are centered over the hinge point pins
and you are installing the horn onto the hardwood
mounting point on the fl ap (look at the underside of
the fl ap to locate the mounting point).
6. Lower the fl ap 3/4" [19mm] and with the fl ap
❏ ❏
servo arm still centered, mark the pushrod where it
crosses the outer hole in the servo arm. As you did
with the aileron, install the pushrod onto the servo
arm using a FasLink. Be sure to slide the silicone
clevis retainer to the end of the clevis and tighten the
nut against the clevis with a drop of threadlocking
compound.
7. Repeat steps 1-6 for the other wing panel.
❏
12
2. If you are planning on installing optional
❏
pneumatic retracts, now would be a good time to route
Page 13
your air lines through the wing panels and into the
boxes. Approximately 14" [356mm] of air line should
be installed into each panel. Also, route the servo
extensions through the holes in the sheeting.
3. Use epoxy to glue the nylon wing dowels into
❏
the holes in the wing leading edge (be sure the smooth
ends of the pins face outward). Wipe away excess
epoxy with a paper towel dampened with denatured
alcohol.
4. Test fi t the wing joiner into the joiner pocket of
❏
each wing panel with the “V” shaped side pointing to
the bottom of the wing. The joiner should be able to
fi t halfway into each pocket and be slightly loose to
allow room for epoxy. There is a front and back side
to the wing joiner. It will only fi t in the wings in the
correct orientation. Sand the joiner as necessary for
the proper fi t. Dry fi t the wing panels together using
the joiner. The root ribs of the panels should sit fl at
against each other with no gaps. Lightly sand the face
of the root ribs if necessary to eliminate any gaps
between the wing panels.
5. When satisfi ed with the fi t of the wing panels,
❏
mix up a batch of 30-minute epoxy and coat the inside
of the wing joiner pockets in each wing panel. Coat
one half of the wing joiner and slide it into one wing
panel. Coat the root ribs of both wing panels as well
as the exposed end of the joiner. Join the two wing
panels together and use paper towels dampened with
denatured alcohol to wipe away any excess epoxy
from the joint between the panels. Use masking tape
to hold the panels together tightly. A rubber band
around the wing dowels works well to hold the LE of
the wing panels together and a clamp at the TE helps
keep them aligned. Set the wing aside and let the
epoxy cure undisturbed.
6. Fit the wing to the fuselage and use two 1/4-
❏
20 nylon wing bolts to secure the wing in place. Align
the belly pan in place onto the underside of the wing.
Use a felt-tip pen to trace around the belly pan onto
the wing.
7. Carefully cut the covering 1/16" [1.6mm] inside
❏
the lines you drew and remove the covering. Use a
sharp hobby knife and take care to only cut through
the covering and not into the wood beneath. Use
denatured alcohol to wipe away the lines you drew (or
use CA debonder). See the following Expert Tip for an
alternative method for removing covering.
13
Page 14
HOW TO CUT COVERING FROM BALSA
Use a soldering iron to cut the covering from the
area beneath the belly pan. The tip of the soldering
iron doesn’t have to be sharp, but a fi ne tip does
work best. Allow the iron to heat fully.
Use a straightedge to guide the soldering iron at a
rate that will just melt the covering and not burn into
the wood. The hotter the soldering iron, the faster it
must travel to melt a fi ne cut. Peel off the covering.
OPTIONAL PNEUMATIC RETRACT
INSTALLATION
If you plan to install pneumatic retracts, skip to step 11
after you have completed this installation.
1. Two sets of bolt-on axles are included with the
❏
optional pneumatic retract set. If you plan to use the
wheels included with the P-40, you will install the 5mm
diameter axles. If you plan to use wheels from another
manufacturer such as Robart, install the 3/16” [4.8mm]
axles. Flat spots are provided on both sides of each
landing gear strut. The fl at spots that are closest to
the end of the struts should be used. Install the axles
onto the struts using the included 3mm SHCS and
threadlocking compound. Do not completely tighten
the screws yet.
retract as far forward (toward the LE of the wing) as it
will go. Mark the locations of the four mounting holes
onto the box. Drill 5/64” [2mm] holes at your marks.
3. Thread a #4 x 5/8” [16mm] self-tapping screw
❏
into each hole and back it out. Apply a couple drops
of thin CA to each hole. When the CA has dried,
install the retract with four #4 x 5/8” [16mm] selftapping screws.
2. Connect the airlines to the retract. Insert the
❏
retract into the plywood mounting box and slide the
14
4. If the end of the axle does not align with the
❏
center of the wheel well when the gear is in the up
position, adjust the position of the axle on the strut
until it does and then thoroughly tighten the screw in
the axle.
Page 15
6. Thread a 6-32 set screw into each of the 5mm
❏
wheel collars and tighten one wheel collar onto the
inner fl at spot on the axle. Apply a drop of oil to the
axle and install the wheel. Tighten another 5mm wheel
collar on the outside of the wheel. Be sure that the
wheel rotates freely. Press the plastic wheel cover
onto the wheel and apply the wheel cover decal.
7. Repeat steps 1-6 for the other retract.
❏
(Continued from page 13)
8. Mark the locations for the fi xed landing gear
❏
block mounting holes onto the plywood landing gear
mounting blocks. Drill 5/64" [2mm] holes at your
marks. Install the blocks using eight #4 x 5/8" [16mm]
self-tapping screws. Be sure to install the blocks so
that the landing gear wire holes are toward the TE of
the wing.
5. Slide a 5mm wheel collar onto the axle followed
❏
by a wheel and another 5mm wheel collar. Mark the
location of each wheel collar onto the axle. Use a
metal fi le or rotary tool to grind fl at spots onto the axle
at your marks.
8. Install quick disconnects onto the air lines.
❏
15
9. Install the fi xed landing gear wires into the blocks
❏
using eight #4 x 1/2" [13mm] self-tapping screws and
four nylon landing gear straps.
Page 16
11. Fit the fi berglass retract covers into position over
❏
the landing gear boxes. Drill four holes evenly spaced
at the edges of each cover with a 1/16" [1.6mm] drill
bit. Remove the retract covers and thread a #2 x 3/8"
[9.5mm] self-tapping screw into each hole and back it
out. Apply a drop of thin CA to each hole to harden the
surrounding wood. When the CA is dry, apply a small
bead of canopy glue to the retract covers and install
them onto the wings using eight #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm]
self-tapping screws. The screws will hold the retract
covers in place while the glue dries. If you have installed
pneumatic retracts, test the operation of the gear with
the retract covers now in place. Sand the inside edges
of the retract covers if necessary to provide clearance of
the gear struts. If the retract covers need to be removed
in the future, remove the screws and carefully peel the
retract covers away from the wing covering.
ASSEMBLE THE T AIL SECTION
A = A'
A
B = B'
BB'
A'
10. Thread a 6-32 set screw into two 5mm wheel
❏
collars and tighten the wheel collars onto the inner fl at
spots on the landing gear wires. Apply a drop of oil to
each wire and install the main wheels. Tighten another
5mm wheel collar on the outside of each wheel. Be
sure that the wheels rotate freely. Press the plastic
wheel covers onto the wheels and apply the wheel
cover decals.
12. Glue the ABS machine guns onto the LE of the
❏
wing. For added realism, paint the gun barrels black.
16
1. Insert the horizontal stabilizer into the stab pocket
❏
and center the stab left and right in the fuselage. Stand
back 15-20ft [5-6m] and check to be sure the stab is
Page 17
parallel to the wing. If necessary, adjust the stab saddle
as needed by lightly sanding it until the stab and wing
are parallel. Measure the distance from the tip of each
wing to the tip of the stab. Adjust the stab until the
distance from the tip of the stab to the tip of the wing is
equal on both sides. When satisfi ed with the position
of the stab, use a felt tip marker to mark the outline of
the fuselage onto the top and bottom of it.
4. As you did with the ailerons, install the elevators
❏
onto the stabilizer using CA hinges. Before applying
the CA to the hinges, be sure the elevators move up
and down freely.
2. Carefully remove the covering 1/16" [1.6mm]
❏
inside the lines you drew. Wipe away the lines with
alcohol or debonder. Coat the exposed wood of the
stabilizer with 30-minute epoxy. For a stronger joint, we
recommend also coating the stab pocket with epoxy.
Set the stab in position in the stab pocket and confi rm
that it is centered and parallel with the wing. When
satisfi ed, clean up any excess epoxy from the stab
and fuse with paper towels dampened with denatured
alcohol. Be thorough when cleaning to prevent a haze
left behind on the covering after the epoxy cures. Allow
the epoxy to cure undisturbed.
3. The wing can now be removed from the
❏
fuselage.
17
5. A few drops of oil at the ends of the tail wheel
❏
tab hinge will prevent epoxy from sticking to it. Coat
the wire end and nylon tab with epoxy and fi t the
wire end into the pre-drilled hole in the rudder. Insert
CA hinges into the rudder and fi t the rudder in place
onto the fuselage. The CA hinges will hold the rudder
secure while the epoxy cures. Wipe away any excess
epoxy with denatured alcohol.
Page 18
INST ALL THE ENGINE
AND FUEL TANK
The engine shown in this section is an O.S. FS-
91 Surpass II 4-stroke engine. The installation of a
2-stroke engine is the same procedure.
6. Oil the tail wheel axle and install the tail wheel.
❏
Secure it with a 3/32" [2.4mm] wheel collar and a 4-40
set screw. Be sure that the tail wheel rotates freely.
7. Cut one of the 36" [914mm] pushrods to 24"
❏
[610mm] to make it easier to work with. Thread a 2-56
nut and clevis onto the pushrod. Slide a silicone clevis
retainer onto the clevis. Install the clevis onto the third
outer hole of a control horn. Insert the pushrod into the
rudder outer pushrod tube. Align the holes in the control
horn over the rudder hinge line and mark the mounting
holes onto the rudder. Be sure you are installing the
control horn onto the plywood mounting plate.
8. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] at your marks. Do not drill all
❏
the way through the rudder. Thread a #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm]
self-tapping screw into each hole and back it out.
Apply a drop of thin CA to each hole. When the CA has
hardened, install the control horn using two #2 x 3/8"
[9.5mm] self-tapping screws. Slide the silicone clevis
retainer to the end of the clevis and tighten the 2-56
nut against the clevis with threadlocking compound.
9. Install a pushrod and control horn onto each
❏
elevator as was done with the rudder. The clevises
should be installed in the outer holes of the control
horns.
18
1. The fuel tank can be assembled as a two line
❏
system consisting of a vent (pressure) line to the
muffl er and a carb line. Filling and emptying of the
tank would need to be done through the carb line, or
an optional fuel fi ll valve (not included). The tank can
also be assembled as a three line system having a
vent line, carb line, and fi ll line. If installing a fi ll line,
Page 19
puncture the top of the stopper above the sealed off
fuel tube hole. The fi ll and carb lines should extend
out 1/2" [13mm] beyond the stopper and the vent line
should be bent upwards and left uncut. With the tubes
installed in the stopper, fi t the stopper plates loosely
in place with the 3 x 25mm phillips screw to hold the
assembly together.
Top of Tank
Vent
Fill and Carb Lines
in place (do not over tighten). Mark the side of the tank
that must face up when installed in the plane, and we
also suggest marking the tubes in the stopper.
4. Install the plywood throttle servo tray behind
❏
the fuel tank using four #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] self-tapping
screws and four #2 fl at washers. The tray should be
pressed up against the back of the fuel tank to prevent
it from moving in fl ight.
2. Fit the stopper assembly into the tank with the
❏
vent line pointing toward the top of the tank, but not
touching. The fuel tubing and clunks (fuel pickup) on
the carb and fi ll lines should almost reach the back
of the tank but not touch. The clunks must be able to
move freely inside the tank when assembled. Adjust
the length of the fuel tubing accordingly. When satisfi ed,
tighten the 3 x 25mm screw in the stopper to secure it
3. Attach a 6"-7" [152mm-178mm] piece of fuel
❏
tubing onto each line coming from the tank. Insert the
tank into the fuselage with the correct side facing up.
The neck of the tank should fi t into the former behind
the fi rewall. We recommend marking the fuel lines so
they can be easily identifi ed when connecting them to
the engine.
19
5. Using four 8-32 x 1" [25mm] SHCS, four #8 fl at
❏
washers, four #8 lock washers, and threadlocking
compound, attach the engine mount inverted to the
fi rewall. Leave the screws slightly loose. Test fi t your
engine between the mount halves. Slide the mount
halves against the sides of the engine and fi nish
tightening the mount screws.
Page 20
6. Position the front of the engine drive washer
❏
5-7/8" [149mm] from the fi rewall. Mark the location of
the engine mount holes onto the mount rails using a
Dead Center hole locator. Remove the engine from
the mount and use an 8-32 tap and drill set to create
threads in the four mounting holes. Attach the engine
to the mount using four 8-32 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS, four
#8 fl at washers, and four #8 lock washers.
7. Install your muffl er onto the engine. We used an
❏
optional 90° header (OSMG2624) to route the muffl er
pipe entirely within the cowl. If you choose to only use
the header included with the engine, the muffl er will
exit on the side of the plane and some of the cowl will
need to be cut away. If you have installed a 2-stroke
engine, we recommend using an optional in-cowl
muffl er. The stock muffl er can also be used; however,
the muffl er will exit on the side of the plane. Cut
the vent line and carb line to the correct length and
connect them to the engine. Leave the fi ll line uncut.
INSTALL THE RADIO SYSTEM
1. Install your throttle servo in the throttle servo
❏
tray on the same side of the fuselage as the throttle
arm on the carburetor.
20
2. Cut three arms from a four-armed servo arm.
❏
Install a brass screw-lock connector into the third hole
from the center of the remaining arm using a nylon
retainer. Loosely thread a 4-40 x 1/8" [3mm] SHCS
into the screw-lock connector. Use your radio system
to center the servo and attach the arm perpendicular
to the servo case pointing away from the center of the
fuselage. Be sure to install the servo arm screw. Install
a screw-lock connector with a 4-40 x 1/8" [3mm] SHCS
into the throttle arm on the carb. Cut the threads off of
the 17-1/2" [445mm] 2-56 pushrod. Slide the pushrod
through the outer pushrod tube as shown. Make any
necessary bends in the pushrod to connect it to the
throttle arm. With the throttle servo centered and the
carb at 1/2 throttle, insert the pushrod ends into the
Page 21
screw-lock connectors and tighten the screws. Test
the operation of the throttle with your radio system
confi rming that the servo properly opens and closes
the carb. Make any adjustments necessary.
3. Install the rudder and elevator servos into the
❏
servo bays with the servo splines facing forward.
5. Cut a FasLink to 11/16" [17.5mm] long.
❏
6. Install a servo arm onto the elevator servo. As you
❏
did with the rudder pushrod, center the right elevator
and make a bend in the pushrod where it crosses the
outer hole of the elevator servo arm. Center the left
elevator and make a mark on the pushrod 5/8" [16mm]
aft of the outer hole of the servo arm. Cut off the excess
pushrod at your mark.
ends. Connect the left elevator pushrod to the servo
arm and secure it with the shortened FasLink. Slide
both wheel collars just behind the FasLink, view the
plane from behind and confi rm that both elevator halves
are parallel, and thoroughly tighten the screws in the
wheel collars. Test the operation of the elevator servo
with your radio. Make any fi ne adjustments with the
clevises to bring the elevator halves perfectly parallel
with each other.
4. Install a servo arm onto the rudder servo and
❏
enlarge the outer hole of the arm with a 5/64" [2mm]
drill bit. With the rudder servo and rudder centered,
mark the rudder pushrod where it crosses the outer
hole of the servo arm. Make a 90° bend at the mark,
cut off the excess pushrod 1/4" [6mm] beyond the
bend and connect the pushrod to the servo arm and
secure it with a nylon FasLink.
7. Loosely thread a 6-32 x 1/4" [6mm] SHCS into
❏
two 5/32" [4mm] wheel collars with threadlocking
compound. Fit the wheel collars over both pushrod
21
8. Make a hook and loop strap by cutting the
❏
included material to a length that will wrap around your
receiver pack and then overlap the mating ends by
approximately 1" [25mm]. Cut a piece of foam rubber
(not included) to match your pack. Secure the pack to
the receiver tray with the strap.
Page 22
9. Apply a thin coat of epoxy where the receiver will
❏
be installed and allow it to cure fully. When cured, use
a piece of self-adhesive hook and loop material (not
included) to secure the receiver in place. The epoxy
will provide a smooth surface to apply the hook and
loop material. (It is recommended to wrap the receiver
in foam rubber to protect it against vibration.) Note: If
you are installing a larger receiver, make another strap
and install the receiver in the same manner as you did
the battery. Be sure to leave space for the retract valve
mount if you are also installing the optional pneumatic
retracts.
FINISH THE MODEL
INSTALL THE COWL AND SPINNER
10. Install your receiver switch and charge jack
❏
onto the side of the fuselage opposite the throttle servo.
Connect your servos and switch to the receiver and
connect the receiver battery to the switch. Be sure to
use tape or heat shrink tubing to secure the connection
between the switch and the battery. Neatly bundle the
wires together out of the way of the servos. We used
small tie straps. Also, small pieces of fuel tubing glued
inside the fuselage can support 2.4GHz receiver
antennas in the suggested orientation described in
your radio manual. If you are using an FM or PCM
radio system, an antenna tube is provided adjacent to
the rudder outer pushrod tube. The antenna tube exits
the underside aft end of the fuselage. Locate the exit
slot and carefully trim away the covering.
22
1. Make templates for the locations of cutouts
❏
you will need to make in the cowl. We made a needle
valve extension from leftover 2-56 pushrod used to
assemble this plane as seen in the photo (needle
valve extensions are also available for purchase such
as OSMG7290). Remove the needle and temporarily
install the cowl. Mark the locations for the cutouts onto
the cowl using the templates as a guide. Other cutouts
you may need to make include glow plug access and
an opening for the exhaust.
Page 23
2. We also made a hole in the cowl for the fuel fi ll
❏
line. Start with a small hole (we chose to make the hole
in the black paint on the cowl because the included fi ll
line plug is black; be sure that the hole will clear the
fi rewall) and enlarge the hole until the fi ll line with the
plug inserted fi ts snugly when pushed into the hole.
When satisfi ed, coat the inside of the cowl around the
hole with CA to harden the surrounding fi berglass.
3. Remove the cowl from the fuselage and prepare
❏
additional paper templates for marking and drilling the
cowl mounting holes. The cowl will be held on by eight
screws, four per side. The forward cowl mounting holes
need to be drilled into the fi rewall in the approximate
locations shown. The aft holes need to be carefully
measured using the dimensions provided to accurately
drill the holes into the plywood plates pre-installed in
the fuselage.
4. Drill 1/16” [1.6mm] holes into the fuselage at
❏
the marks you made. Thread a #2 x 3/8” [9.5mm] selftapping screw into each hole and back it out. Apply a
drop of thin CA into each hole.
[7.9mm] brass insert is provided for 5/16” crankshafts).
Use the prop washer and nut to hold the backplate
tight against the drive washer. Align the paint on the
cowl with the covering on the fuselage and also the
front of the cowl with the backplate. When satisfi ed,
tape the cowl in place (an assistant for this step is not
necessary, but is helpful).
6. Transfer your marks from the paper template
❏
onto the cowl. Remove the cowl and drill 3/32” [2.4mm]
holes into the cowl at your marks.
5. Fit the cowl onto the fuselage. Temporarily
❏
install the spinner backplate onto the engine (a 5/16”
23
7. Feed the fi ll line through the hole you made in
❏
the cowl and install the cowl on the fuse using eight
#2 x 3/8” [9.5mm] screws and eight #2 fl at washers.
Install your needle valve and any other connections
necessary.
Page 24
8. Hold the carburetor intake piece in place on the
❏
fuse and trace around it with a felt-tip pen. Remove the
covering inside the lines and glue it in place.
9. Install the spinner backplate, propeller and
❏
prop washer onto the crankshaft. Two spinner nuts
are included in the spinner hardware bag. The silver
nut is intended for 2-stroke engines. The black nut is
intended for 4-stroke engines and matches the jam
nut size of O.S. 4-stroke engines. If you are installing
a 4-stroke engine, be sure to fi rst tighten the large
nut included with the engine, then install the 4-stroke
spinner nut.
10. Fit the spinner cone onto the backplate and
❏
center the prop blades in the cutouts. Two spinner
bolts are included in the hardware bag. If you have
installed an O.S. 4-stroke engine, install the shorter
of the two bolts into the spinner cone and thoroughly
tighten it. The longer bolt is intended for engines with
shorter crankshafts.
INSTALL THE COCKPIT KIT AND CANOPY
1. Begin by gluing the cockpit fl oor in position. Be
❏
sure that the fl oor is centered in the cockpit to allow
room for the cockpit side panels. We used hot glue
because it hardens quickly and it can be applied in
thick beads. If you choose to use epoxy or CA, you
will need to make some balsa spacers to fi ll the gap
between the cockpit fl oor and the fuselage.
2. Install the cockpit side panels in the same
❏
manner.
3. Glue the instrument panel and headrest in
❏
position.
24
Page 25
OPTIONAL PNEUMATIC RETRACT
HARDWARE INSTALLATION
1. Install the air tank into the fuselage as shown.
❏
Use silicone to glue the tank to the fuselage former.
3. Mount the retract valve to the plywood valve
❏
mount using four #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] self-tapping
screws.
4. A pilot seat is included. If you choose to install it,
❏
you will need to make a spacer block from scrap balsa
so it has a fl at surface to glue to. Another option is to
omit the seat and install a pilot bust. We used pilot
fi gure GPMQ9115.
2. Install the retract servo into the servo bay. Cut
❏
three arms from a four-armed servo arm and enlarge
the outer hole with a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit. Center the
servo and install the arm onto the servo as shown.
25
4. Thread a nylon clevis onto a 4" [102mm] pushrod
❏
and connect it to the retract valve. Glue the two plywood
valve mount braces to the mount as shown.
Page 26
1/4" [6mm] beyond the bend. Reinstall the mount into
the fuse and glue it into the slots. Connect the pushrod
to the servo arm and secure it with a FasLink.
5. Temporarily fi t the valve mount into the slots
❏
in the fuselage former as shown. Mark the pushrod
where it crosses the outer hole of the servo arm.
6. Remove the mount from the fuselage and make
❏
a 90° bend at your mark. Cut off the excess pushrod
26
7. Reference the photos for installing the air lines
❏
and T-fi ttings. Drill a hole for the air fi ll valve on the
side of the fuselage. Be sure to use threadlocking
compound on the thumb nuts. The pressure gauge
should be mounted to the cockpit fl oor so it can be
seen through the canopy. Install quick disconnects
onto the air lines that connect to the retracts.
8. Adjust the ATV on your radio so that the retract
❏
servo only travels the short distance needed to open
and close the retract valve.
9. Temporarily connect the retracts to the retract
❏
valve by joining the quick disconnects. Fill the air tank
by connecting a pump to the fi ll valve and fi ll the tank
to 100 psi.
10. Test the operation of the retracts using your
❏
radio system. The adjustment screws on the valve
control how quickly the retracts raise and lower.
Page 27
(Continued from page 25)
5. Glue the canopy to the fuselage using canopy
❏
glue such as J&Z R/C 56 Canopy Glue (JOZR5007).
2. Position decal on the model where desired.
❏
Holding the decal down, use a paper towel to wipe
most of the water away.
3. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar
❏
to squeegee remaining water from under the decal.
Apply the rest of the decals the same way.
Refer to the pictures on the box to determine the
location for the decals.
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY
CHECK THE CONTROL DIRECTIONS
1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center
❏
the trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from
the servos and reposition them so they are centered.
Reinstall the screws that hold on the servo arms.
2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check
❏
all the control surfaces to see if they are centered. If
necessary, adjust the clevises on the pushrods to
center the control surfaces.
4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP (STANDARD MODE 2)
RIGHT AILERON
RUDDER
MOVES
RIGHT
MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON
MOVES DOWN
direction, use the servo reversing in the transmitter to
reverse the servos connected to those controls. Be
certain the control surfaces have remained centered.
Adjust if necessary.
SET THE CONTROL THROWS
Use a Great Planes AccuThrow (or a ruler) to
accurately measure and set the control throw of each
control surface as indicated in the chart that follows. If
your radio does not have dual rates, we recommend
setting the throws at the low rate setting.
NOTE: The throws are measured at the widest part of
the elevators, rudder and ailerons.
These are the recommended control surface throws:
HIGH RATELOW RATE
6. This completes the assembly process!
❏
APPL Y THE DECALS
Use the following instructions to apply the decals.
1. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily
❏
fi ngerprints and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small
bucket with a mixture of liquid dish soap and warm
water—about one teaspoon of soap per gallon of
water. Submerse the decal in the soap and water
and peel off the paper backing. Note: Even though
the decals have a “sticky-back” and are not the water
transfer type, submersing them in soap & water
allows accurate positioning and reduces air bubbles
underneath.
FULL
THROTTLE
3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the
❏
carburetor respond in the correct direction as shown in
the diagram. If any of the controls respond in the wrong
27
ELEVATOR
MOVES DOWN
[16mm]
ELEVATOR
[38mm]
RUDDERAILERONSFLAPS
[16mm]
Up
5/8"
11°
Right
1-1/2"
18°
Up
5/8"
14°
Full
Rate
Down
5/8"
[16mm]
11°
Left
1-1/2"
[38mm]
18°
Down
5/8"
[16mm]
14°
1-1/2"
[38mm]
32°
Up
7/16"
[11mm]
7°
Right
1"
[25 mm]
12°
Up
1/2"
[13mm]
12°
1/2
Rate
Down
7/16"
[11mm]
7°
Left
1"
[25 mm]
12°
Down
1/2"
[13mm]
12°
3/4"
[19mm]
15°
Page 28
IMPORTANT: The P-40 Warhawk ARF has been
extensively fl own and tested to arrive at the throws
at which it fl ies best. Flying your model at these
throws will provide you with the greatest chance
for successful fi rst fl ights. If, after you have become
accustomed to the way the P-40 fl ies, you would like
to change the throws to suit your taste, that is fi ne.
However, too much control throw could make the
model diffi cult to control, so remember, “more is not
always better.”
BALANCE THE MODEL(C.G.)
More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point)
can have the greatest effect on how a model fl ies,
and may determine whether or not your fi rst fl ight
will be successful. If you value this model and wish
to enjoy it for many fl ights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE. A model that is
not properly balanced will be unstable and possibly
unfl yable.
At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fl y
condition with all of the systems in place including the
engine, landing gear, and the radio system.
1. Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8" [3mm]-wide tape to
❏
accurately mark the C.G. on the top of the wing on
both sides of the fuselage. The C.G. is located 3-1/4"
[83mm] back from the leading edge of the wing where
it meets the fuse.
This is where your model should balance for the
fi rst fl ights. Later, you may wish to experiment by
shifting the C.G. up to 1/4" [6mm] forward or 1/4"
[6mm] back to change the fl ying characteristics.
Moving the C.G. forward may improve the
smoothness and stability, but the model may then
require more speed for takeoff and make it more
diffi cult to slow for landing. Moving the C.G. aft
makes the model more maneuverable, but could
also cause it to become too diffi cult to control. In
any case, start at the recommended balance point and do not at any time balance the model
outside the specifi ed range.
2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts
❏
of the model installed (ready to fl y) and an empty fuel
tank, place the model upside-down on a Great Planes
CG Machine, or lift it upside-down at the balance point
you marked.
3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the
❏
battery pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward
or weight must be added to the nose to balance. If
the nose drops, the model is “nose heavy” and the
battery pack and/or receiver must be shifted aft or
weight must be added to the tail to balance. If possible,
relocate the battery pack and receiver to minimize or
eliminate any additional ballast required. If additional
weight is required, nose weight may be easily added
by using a “spinner weight” (GPMQ4645 for the 1 oz.
[28g] weight, or GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz. [57g] weight).
If spinner weight is not practical or is not enough, use
Great Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead. A good
place to add stick-on nose weight is to the fi rewall
(don’t attach weight to the cowl—it is not intended
to support weight). Begin by placing incrementally
increasing amounts of weight on the bottom of the
fuse over the fi rewall until the model balances. Once
you have determined the amount of weight required, it
can be permanently attached. If required, tail weight
may be added by cutting open the bottom of the fuse
and gluing it permanently inside.
Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the
lead weight to permanently hold it in place. Over time,
fuel and exhaust residue may soften the adhesive and
cause the weight to fall off. Use #2 sheet metal screws,
RTV silicone or epoxy to permanently hold the weight
in place.
4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add
❏
any weight, recheck the C.G. after the weight has
been installed.
BALANCE THE MODEL LATERALLY
1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you
❏
lift the model by the engine propeller shaft and the
bottom of the fuse under the TE of the fi n. Do this
several times.
2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model,
❏
it means that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by
adding weight to the other wing tip. An airplane that
has been laterally balanced will track better in
loops and other maneuvers.
PREFLIGHT
IDENTIFY Y OUR MODEL
No matter if you fl y at an AMA sanctioned R/C club
site or if you fl y somewhere on your own, you should
always have your name, address, telephone number
and AMA number on or inside your model. It is
required at all AMA R/C club fl ying sites and AMA
sanctioned fl ying events. Fill out the identifi cation tag
on page 31 and place it on or inside your model.
CHARGE THE BA TTERIES
Follow the battery charging instructions that came with
your radio control system to charge the batteries. You
should always charge your transmitter and receiver
batteries the night before you go fl ying, and at other
times as recommended by the radio manufacturer.
28
Page 29
CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with
your radio system state differently, the initial charge
on new transmitter and receiver batteries should
be done for 15 hours using the slow-charger that came with the radio system. This will “condition”
the batteries so that the next charge may be done
using the fast-charger of your choice. If the initial
charge is done with a fast-charger the batteries may
not reach their full capacity and you may be fl ying
with batteries that are only partially charged.
BALANCE PROPELLERS
Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers
before you fl y. An unbalanced prop can be the single
most signifi cant cause of vibration that can damage
your model. Not only will engine mounting screws
and bolts loosen, possibly with disastrous effect, but
vibration may also damage your radio receiver and
battery. Vibration can also cause your fuel to foam,
which will, in turn, cause your engine to run hot or
quit.
We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our fl ight box.
GROUND CHECK
If the engine is new, follow the engine
manufacturer’s instructions to break-in the
engine. After break-in, confi rm that the engine idles
reliably, transitions smoothly and rapidly to full power
and maintains full power—indefi nitely. After you run
the engine on the model, inspect the model closely
to make sure all screws remained tight, the hinges
are secure, the prop is secure and all pushrods and
connectors are secure.
RANGE CHECK
Ground check the operational range of your radio
before the fi rst fl ight of the day. With the transmitter
antenna collapsed and the receiver and transmitter
on, you should be able to walk at least 100 feet
away from the model and still have control (if you are
using a 2.4GHz radio system, follow the range check
procedure described in your radio manual). Have an
assistant stand by your model and, while you work
the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are
doing. Repeat this test with the engine running at
various speeds with an assistant holding the model,
using hand signals to show you what is happening. If
the control surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fl y! Find and correct the problem fi rst. Look for loose
servo connections or broken wires, corroded wires on
old servo connectors, poor solder joints in your battery
pack or a defective cell, or a damaged receiver crystal
from a previous crash.
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Failure to follow these safety precautions may
result in severe injury to yourself and others.
Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high
heat, sparks or fl ames, as fuel is very fl ammable. Do
not smoke near the engine or fuel; and remember
that engine exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly
carbon monoxide. Therefore do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.
Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
operate engines.
Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or
sand; the propeller may throw such material in your
face or eyes.
Keep your face and body as well as all spectators
away from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you
start and run the engine.
29
Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing,
shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects
such as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of
shirt or jacket pockets into the prop.
Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the
engine. Do not use your fi ngers to fl ip the propeller.
Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is secure
so that it will not pop off or otherwise get into the
running propeller.
Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating
propeller.
The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after
operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition
so fuel will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fi re.
To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing
off the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s
recommendations. Do not use hands, fi ngers or any
other body part to try to stop the engine. To stop a
gasoline powered engine an on/off switch should be
connected to the engine coil. Do not throw anything
into the propeller of a running engine.
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)
Read and abide by the following excerpts from the
Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For
the complete Safety Code refer to Model Aviation
magazine, the AMA web site or the Code that came
with your AMA license.
GENERAL
1) I will not fl y my model aircraft in sanctioned events,
air shows, or model fl ying demonstrations until it has
been proven to be airworthy by having been previously,
successfully fl ight tested.
2) I will not fl y my model aircraft higher than
approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport
without notifying the airport operator. I will give rightof-way and avoid fl ying in the proximity of full-scale
aircraft. Where necessary, an observer shall be utilized
to supervise fl ying to avoid having models fl y in the
proximity of full-scale aircraft.
Page 30
3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules
for the fl ying site I use, and I will not willfully and
deliberately fl y my models in a careless, reckless and/
or dangerous manner.
5) I will not fl y my model unless it is identifi ed with my
name and address or AMA number, on or in the model.
Note: This does not apply to models while being fl own
indoors.
7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any
device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of
any kind).
RADIO CONTROL
1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment
ground check before the fi rst fl ight of a new or repaired
model.
2) I will not fl y my model aircraft in the presence
of spectators until I become a qualifi ed fl ier, unless
assisted by an experienced helper.
3) At all fl ying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all fl ying takes place with
the other side for spectators. Only personnel involved
with fl ying the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of
the fl ight line. Intentional fl ying behind the fl ight line is
prohibited.
4) I will operate my model using only radio control
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
Communications Commission.
5) I will not knowingly operate my model within
three miles of any pre-existing fl ying site except in
accordance with the frequency sharing agreement
listed [in the complete AMA Safety Code].
9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other
person touch a powered model in fl ight; nor should
any part of the model other than the landing
gear, intentionally touch the ground, except while
landing.
CHECK LIST
During the last few moments of preparation your
mind may be elsewhere anticipating the excitement
of the fi rst fl ight. Because of this, you may be more
likely to overlook certain checks and procedures
that should be performed before the model is fl own.
To help avoid this, a check list is provided to make
sure these important areas are not overlooked.
Many are covered in the instruction manual, so
where appropriate, refer to the manual for complete
instructions. Be sure to check the items off as they
are completed (that’s why it’s called a check list!).
1. Fuelproof all areas exposed to fuel or exhaust
❏
residue such as the cowl mounting blocks, wing saddle
area, etc.
2. Check the C.G. according to the measurements
❏
provided in the manual.
3. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely
❏
mounted in the fuse. Simply stuffi ng them into place
with foam rubber is not suffi cient.
4. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it
❏
has a strain relief inside the fuselage to keep tension
off the solder joint inside the receiver.
5. Balance your model laterally as explained in the
❏
instructions.
6. Use threadlocking compound to secure critical
❏
fasteners such as the set screws that hold the wheel
axles to the struts, screws that hold the carburetor arm
(if applicable), screw-lock pushrod connectors, etc.
7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will
❏
turn freely.
8. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in
❏
place.
9. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA
❏
where appropriate (servo mounting screws, cowl
mounting screws, etc.).
10. Confi rm that all controls operate in the correct
❏
direction and the throws are set up according to the
manual.
30
11. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all
❏
the clevises and that all servo arms are secured to the
servos with the screws included with your radio.
12. Secure connections between servo wires and
❏
Y-connectors or servo extensions, and the connection
between your battery pack and the on/off switch with
vinyl tape, heat shrink tubing or special clips suitable
for that purpose.
13. Make sure any servo extension cords you may
❏
have used do not interfere with other systems (servo
arms, pushrods, etc.).
14. Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffl er
❏
with high temp RTV silicone, thread locking compound
or J.B. Weld.
15. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are
❏
not kinked.
16. Use an incidence meter to check the wing for
❏
twists and attempt to correct before fl ying.
17. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
❏
18. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.
❏
19. Place your name, address, AMA number and
❏
telephone number on or inside your model.
20. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary)
❏
and make sure it is fully charged.
21. If you wish to photograph your model, do so
❏
before your fi rst fl ight.
22. Range check your radio when you get to the
❏
fl ying fi eld.
FLYING
The P-40 Warhawk ARF is a great-fl ying model that
fl ies smoothly and predictably. The P-40 does not,
however, possess the self-recovery characteristics
of a primary R/C trainer and should be fl own only by
experienced R/C pilots.
FUEL MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS
A fully cowled engine may run at a higher temperature
than an un-cowled engine. For this reason, the fuel
mixture should be richened so the engine runs at
about 200 rpm below peak speed. By running the
Page 31
engine slightly rich, you will help prevent dead-stick
landings caused by overheating.
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C
AIRPLANES): If, while fl ying, you notice an
alarming or unusual sound such as a low-pitched
“buzz,” this may indicate control surface fl utter.
Flutter occurs when a control surface (such as
an aileron or elevator) or a fl ying surface (such
as a wing or stab) rapidly vibrates up and down
(thus causing the noise). In extreme cases, if not
detected immediately, fl utter can actually cause
the control surface to detach or the fl ying surface
to fail, thus causing loss of control followed by an
impending crash. The best thing to do when fl utter
is detected is to slow the model immediately
by reducing power, then land as soon as safely
possible. Identify which surface fl uttered (so the
problem may be resolved) by checking all the
servo grommets for deterioration or signs of
vibration. Make certain all pushrod linkages are
secure and free of play. If it fl uttered once, under
similar circumstances it will probably fl utter again
unless the problem is fi xed. Some things which
can cause fl utter are; Excessive hinge gap; Not
mounting control horns solidly; Poor fi t of clevis
pin in horn; Side-play of wire pushrods caused
by large bends; Excessive free play in servo
gears; Insecure servo mounting; and one of the
most prevalent causes of fl utter; Flying an overpowered model at excessive speeds.
TAKEOFF
Before you get ready to takeoff, see how the model
handles on the ground by doing a few practice runs
at low speeds on the runway. Hold “up” elevator to
keep the tail wheel on the ground. If necessary, adjust
the tail wheel so the model will roll straight down the
runway. If you need to calm your nerves before the
maiden fl ight, shut the engine down and bring the
model back into the pits. Top off the fuel, then check
all fasteners and control linkages for peace of mind.
Remember to takeoff into the wind. When you’re
ready, point the model straight down the runway, hold
a bit of up elevator to keep the tail on the ground to
maintain tail wheel steering, then gradually advance
the throttle. As the model gains speed decrease up
elevator allowing the tail to come off the ground. One
of the most important things to remember with a tail
dragger is to always be ready to apply right rudder
to counteract engine torque. Gain as much speed as
your runway and fl ying site will practically allow before
gently applying up elevator, lifting the model into the
air. At this moment it is likely that you will need to
apply more right rudder to counteract engine torque.
Be smooth on the elevator stick, allowing the model
to establish a gentle climb to a safe altitude before
turning into the traffi c pattern.
FLIGHT
For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffi c, it
is a good idea to have an assistant on the fl ight line
with you. Tell him to remind you to throttle back once
the plane gets to a comfortable altitude. While full
throttle is usually desirable for takeoff, most models fl y
more smoothly at reduced speeds.
Take it easy with the P-40 Warhawk ARF for the fi rst few
fl ights, gradually getting acquainted with it as you gain
confi dence. Adjust the trims to maintain straight and
level fl ight. After fl ying around for a while, and while still
at a safe altitude with plenty of fuel, practice slow fl ight
and execute practice landing approaches by reducing
the throttle to see how the model handles at slower
speeds. Add power to see how she climbs as well.
Continue to fl y around, executing various maneuvers
and making mental notes (or having your assistant
write them down) of what trim or C.G. changes may
be required to fi ne tune the model so it fl ies the way
you like. Mind your fuel level, but use this fi rst fl ight to
become familiar with your model before landing.
LANDING
To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle while on
the downwind leg. Allow the nose of the model to pitch
downward to gradually bleed off altitude. Continue to
lose altitude, but maintain airspeed by keeping the nose
down as you turn onto the crosswind leg. Make your
fi nal turn toward the runway (into the wind) keeping the
nose down to maintain airspeed and control. Level the
attitude when the model reaches the runway threshold,
modulating the throttle as necessary to maintain your
glide path and airspeed. If you are going to overshoot,
smoothly advance the throttle (always ready on the
right rudder to counteract torque) and climb out to
make another attempt. When you’re ready to make your
landing fl are and the model is a foot or so off the deck,
smoothly increase up elevator until it gently touches
down. Once the model is on the runway and has lost
fl ying speed, hold up elevator to place the tail on the
ground, regaining tail wheel control.
One fi nal note about fl ying your model. Have a goal or
fl ight plan in mind for every fl ight. This can be learning
a new maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) you
already know, or learning how the model behaves
in certain conditions (such as on high or low rates).
This is not necessarily to improve your skills (though
it is never a bad idea!), but more importantly so you
do not surprise yourself by impulsively attempting a
maneuver and suddenly fi nding that you’ve run out of
time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be
deliberate, not impulsive. For example, if you’re going to
do a loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction
(anticipating rudder corrections that will be required to
maintain heading), remember to throttle back at the
top, and make certain you are on the desired rates
(high/low rates). A fl ight plan greatly reduces the
chances of crashing your model just because of poor
planning and impulsive moves. Remember to think.
Have a ball! But always stay in control
and fl y in a safe manner.
GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
Name
Address
City, State, Zip
This model belongs to:
AMA Number
Phone Number
31
Page 32
32
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