Top Flite Models Champaign, IL
Ph: (217) 398-8970, Ext. 5
Fax: (217) 398-7721
airsupport@top-flite.com
™
INSTRUCTION
MANUAL
WARRANTY
Top Flite® Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and
workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use
or modification. In no case shall Top Flite’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled
product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is
advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the
defective part or item to Hobby
Services at this address:
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime
telephone number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the
purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
Thank you for purchasing the Top Flite Gold Edition
th
1/8
-scale F4-U Corsair .60 ARF. In spite of the apparent
complication of the gull-wing design and the scale
appearance, you’ll fi nd that the Corsair assembles
more quickly than expected. The fl aps and ailerons
are pre-hinged and the outer fl aps join to the inner
fl aps with convenient tabs. Detailed instructions and
illustrations of various motor installations will get you
into the air in little time. Finally, the Corsair’s light
weight and generous wing area just about make it a
trainer. But we won’t tell if you won’t tell, and all the
spectators will think you’re a pro!
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections
to this model visit the Top Flite web site at www.top-fl ite.
com. Open the “GOLD EDITION ARFS” link on the
left side of the page and click on image of the Corsair
that appears. If there is new technical information or
changes, you’ll see an “Important! TECH NOTICE”
box on the upper left corner of the page. Click on the
Tech Notice box to read the info.
SCALE COMPETITION
The scale of this model is 1/8th (or 13% – 1/7.7 to be
precise). These fi gures were derived from comparing
the wingspan of this model to the wingspan of the fullsize. Though the Top Flite F4-U Corsair is an ARF and
may not have the same level of detail as an “all-out”
scratch-built competition model, it is a scale model
nonetheless and is therefore eligible to compete in the
Fun Scale class in AMA competition (we receive many
favorable reports of our ARFs in scale competition!). In
Fun Scale, the “builder of the model” rule does not apply.
To receive the fi ve points for scale documentation, the
only proof required that a full size aircraft of this type in
this paint/markings scheme did exist is a single sheet
such as a kit box cover from a plastic model, a photo,
or a profi le painting, etc. If a black-and-white photo is
used, other written documentation of color must be
provided. Contact the AMA for a rule book with full
details. See page 3 for the AMA contact information.
2
If you would like photos of a full-size F4-U for scale
documentation, or if you would like to study the photos
to add more scale details, photo packs are available from:
Bob’s Aircraft Documentation
3114 Yukon Ave Ph: (714) 979-8058
Costa Mesa, CA 92626 Fx: (714) 979-7279
e-mail: www.bobsairdoc.com
AMA
We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model
Aeronautics) and a local R/C club. The AMA is the
governing body of model aviation and membership is
required to fl y at AMA clubs. Though joining the AMA
provides many benefi ts, one of the primary reasons
to join is liability protection. Coverage is not limited to
fl ying at contests or on the club fi eld. It even applies
to fl ying at public demonstrations and air shows. Failure
to comply with the Safety Code (excerpts printed in
the back of the manual) may endanger insurance
coverage. Additionally, training programs and instructors
are available at AMA club sites to help you get started
the right way. There are over 2,500 AMA chartered
clubs across the country. Contact the AMA at the
address or toll-free phone number below.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Ph. (800) 435-9262
Fx (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at: http://www.
modelaircraft.org
IMPORT ANT!!! Two of the most important things you
can do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby
are to avoid fl ying near full-scale aircraft and avoid
fl ying near or over groups of people.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
PROTECT Y OUR MODEL, Y OURSELF &
OTHERS.....FOLLO W THESE IMPORT ANT
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
1. Your Top Flite F4-U Corsair ARF should not be
considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like a full-size
airplane. Because of its performance capabilities,
the Corsair, if not assembled and operated correctly,
could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators
and damage to property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as
doing so may result in an unsafe or unfl yable model.
In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from
the photos. In those instances the written instructions
should be considered as correct.
3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in fi rst-
class condition, and a correctly sized engine and
components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the
building process.
5. You must correctly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates correctly
on the ground and in the air.
6. You must check the operation of the model before
every fl ight to insure that all equipment is operating
and that the model has remained structurally sound.
Be sure to check clevises or other connectors often
and replace them if they show any signs of wear
or fatigue.
7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not fl own
this type of model before, we recommend that you
get the assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C
club for your fi rst fl ights. If you’re not a member of a
club, your local hobby shop has information about
clubs in your area whose membership includes
experienced pilots.
8. While this kit has been fl ight tested to exceed
normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely
high stress fl ying, or if engines larger than ones in
the recommended range are used, the modeler is
responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high
stress points and/or substituting hardware more
suitable for the increased stress.
9. WARNING: Some of the parts in this kit are made
of fi berglass, the fi bers of which may cause eye,
skin and respiratory tract irritation. Never blow into
3
one of these parts to remove fi berglass dust, as
the dust will blow back into your eyes. Always wear
safety goggles, a particle mask and rubber gloves
when grinding, drilling and sanding fi berglass parts.
Vacuum the parts and the work area thoroughly after
working with fi berglass parts.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top
quality, thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but
ultimately the quality and fl yability of your fi nished
model depends on how you build it; therefore, we
cannot in any way guarantee the performance of
your completed model, and no representations are
expressed or implied as to the performance or safety
of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow the
instructions to end up with a well-built model
that is straight and true.
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
This is a partial list of items required to fi nish this
model that may require planning or decision making
before starting assembly. Order numbers are provided
in parentheses.
ENGINE RECOMMENDATIONS
As specifi ed on the cover of this instruction manual, the
Corsair is designed for a .61 cu in [10.0cc] two-stroke
or .91 cu in [15.0cc] four-stroke glow engine. And the
Corsair has the lightest airframe and wing loading of
all the “Gold” ARFs to date, so there is defi nitely no
need to overpower this model.
If using the O.S.® Max .65AX 2-stroke, the stock
muffl er may be used, but the O.S. #744B muffl er
extension (OSMG2582) or the Bisson Pitts-style muffl er
(BISG4061) will be required. If using the O.S. Max .91S
II 4-stroke engine, an O.S. FS70-91 Exhaust Header
Pipe (OUT) (OSMG2625) is also required. If using
the O.S. .95V, the M11 in-cowl 80D header pipe was
also used (OSMG2568). Refer to the Engine Mounting
instructions starting on page 19 for more information
and illustrations.
For the O.S. .91 4-stroke a 15 × 6 propeller is usually the
standard, “go-to” prop. However, a Master Air Screw 14
× 7 prop is a nice 3-blade option for static scale effect.
In the air, the 14 × 7 loads the engine a little more than
the 15 × 6 and the Corsair fl ies slightly slower, but as
long as the engine is needled correctly the 14 × 7 will
provide great performance.
RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR
The Top Flite Corsair .60 ARF comes equipped with
5.0mm fi xed landing gear wires, but Robart pneumatic
retracts may be used instead.
For Robart retractable landing gear the following items
are required:
❍ 615 100 Degree Rotating Mains (ROBQ1815)
❍ 188VR Standard Air Control Kit (ROBQ2302)
❍ 190 Air Line Quick Disconnects (ROBQ2395)
❍ Great Planes® Wire Axle 2x3/16" (2)
(GPMQ4282)
❍ Great Planes 3/16" wheel collars (GPMQ4308)
❍ K&S 7/32" brass tubing (for wheel spacers for
included wheels) (K+SR5130)
An air pump will also be required to fi ll the onboard
air cylinder when you get to the fi eld and it’s time to
fl y. The Robart Hand Pump & Gauge (ROBQ2363)
may be used, but those who fl y often usually prefer
an electric hobby/emergency air compressor with a
pressure gauge. A wide selection of 12V pumps should
be available at most automotive stores. Use air line
that came with the retracts to connect the fi ller valve
to the compressor.
RADIO EQUIPMENT
If fl ying the Corsair with fi xed landing gear, a fi vechannel radio with seven servos will be required;
2 ailerons, elevator, throttle, rudder and 2 fl aps. If
installing retracts, six channels will be required with
an eighth servo.
For all fl ight control surfaces, servos with a minimum
of 50 oz. in. of torque (such as Futaba® 9001—
FUTM0075) should be used. For the throttle and the
air control valve, any standard servo is suitable (such
as Futaba S3003—FUTM0031).
Note: The servo output torque recommendations are
the minimums. Higher-torque, ball bearing servos could
be used for durability and fl ight precision.
The following servo extensions and Y-harnesses were
also used:
❍(2) 24" [600mm] servo extensions for the
aileron servos (HCAM2721 for Futaba)
❍(2) 6" [150mm] servo extensions for connecting
the fl aps and ailerons to the receiver
(HCAM2701 for Futaba)
❍(2) Futaba dual servo connectors for the fl ap
and aileron servos (FUTM4130)
❍A minimum 1,000mAh receiver battery is also
recommended.
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
HARDWARE AND ACCESSORIES
In addition to the items listed in the “Decisions Y ou
Must Make” section, following is the list of hardware
and accessories used to fi nish the Corsair as illustrated
in this instruction manual. Order numbers are provided
in parentheses.
A covering iron will be required for tightening the
covering on the model after it is removed from the
box. Following are the covering tools recommended:
❍ 21st Century® sealing iron (COVR2700)
❍ 21st Century iron cover (COVR2702)
❍ 21st Century trim seal iron (COVR2750)
The Top Flite Corsair ARF is factory covered with Top
Flite MonoKote® fi lm. Should repairs ever be required,
following is a list of colors used on this model and
order numbers for 6' [1.8m] rolls. (At some hobby
shops MonoKote can also be purchased by the foot.)
Flat insignia blue TOPQ0507
Flat dove gray TOPQ0511
KIT INSPECTION
Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit
to make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts
to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any
parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if
you need assistance with assembly, contact Product Support. When reporting defective or missing parts,
use the part names exactly as they are written in the
Kit Contents list on this page.
Top Flite Product Support
3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1 Ph: (217) 398-8970
Champaign, IL 61822 Fx: (217) 398-7721
E-mail: airsupport@top-fl ite.com
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS
To order replacement parts for the Top Flite Corsair
ARF, use the order numbers in the Replacement P arts
List that follows. Replacement parts are available only
as listed. Not all parts are available separately (an
aileron cannot be purchased separately, but is only
available with the wing kit). Replacement parts are not
available from Product Support, but can be purchased
from hobby shops or mail order/Internet order fi rms.
Hardware items (screws, nuts, bolts) are also available
from these outlets. If you need assistance locating a
dealer to purchase parts, visit www.top-fl ite.com
and click on “Where to Buy.” If this kit is missing parts,
contact Product Support.
REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST
Order No.Description
TOPA1830
TOPA1831
TOPA1832
TOPA1833
TOPA1834
TOPA1835
TOPA1836
TOPA1837
TOPA1838
TOPA1839
TOPA1840
TOPA1841
TOPA1842
Fuselage Corsair .61 ARF
Wing Corsair .61 ARF
Tail Surfaces Corsair .61 ARF
Canopy Corsair .61 ARF
Cowl Corsair .61 ARF
Belly Pan Corsair .61 ARF
Tail Cover Corsair .61 ARF
Decals Corsair .61 ARF
Landing Gear Corsair .61 ARF
Spinner Corsair .61 ARF
Tailwheel Wire Corsair .61 ARF
Cockpit Corsair .61 ARF
Landing Gear Block Corsair ARF
Note: The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine
thrust angles have been factory-built into the Corsair.
However, some technically-minded modelers may
wish to check these measurements anyway. To view
this information, visit the web site at www.top-fl ite.com
and click on “Technical Data.” Due to manufacturing
tolerances which will have little or no effect on the
way the model will fl y, there may be slight deviations
between your model and the published values.
5
KIT CONTENTS
PREPARATION
PREP ARE THE COVERING
During assembly there will be several occasions
where epoxy cleanup will be necessary. Instead of
wasting whole paper towels, stack three or four
2
3
11
4
5
6
7
10
12
9
8
1
14
15
13
17
16
18
19
20
paper towels on top of
each other and cut
them into small squares.
This will eliminate wast-
ing whole paper towels
and the little squares
are easier to use. For
epoxy clean up, dampen the squares with
denatured alcohol.
21
1. Fuselage
2. Cowl
3. Replica Engine
4. Propeller Hub
5. Torque Bar
6. Fixed Landing Gear Mount
7. Main Landing Gear Wires
8. Wheel Covers
9. Wheels
2323
2424
10. Engine Mount
11. Fuel Tank
12. Canopy
13. Belly Pan
14. Cockpit Kit
15. Elevator Joiner Wire
16. Tail Gear Cover
17. Tail Gear
18. Horizontal Stab & Elevators
2525
26
19. Rudder
20. Rudder Torque Rod
21. Right Wing Panel
22. Left Wing Panel
23. Servo Mount Blocks
24. Wing Joiners
25. Air Intakes
26. Wing Dowels
6
22
1. Carefully remove any masking tape used for
❏
temporarily holding parts together during shipping.
Any remaining glue from the tape can be removed
with paper towel squares dampened with naphtha
(lighter fl uid).
2. Cut the covering over the air exit holes in the
❏
ends of the rudder and elevators. These air passages
will allow expanding air to vent during the process of
tightening the covering. This will also keep the covering
from puffi ng outward on hot days when your Corsair
is sitting in the sun.
ASSEMBLE THE WING
INSTALL THE BELLY PAN & AIR INTAKES
3. Take time now to shrink the covering over open
❏
structure (elevators, rudder) and shrink and seal the
covering to the rest of the airframe over sheeting.
Covering not bonded to the wood underneath—even
if you don’t see any wrinkles now—may form wrinkles
later. The best way to get the covering down and tighten
any wrinkles is with a covering iron with a protective
covering sock—a 21st Century covering iron with a
protective cover sock is best. Set the dial on the 21st
Century iron to 350°F (this should provide a surface
temperature on the cover sock of approximately 320°F
– 330°F). The trick is to push down on the iron to bond
the covering to the wood, but where the sheeting is
soft, thin or unsupported it may bend inward, making
it diffi cult to shrink the covering. So where possible,
reach inside and push back on the sheeting. Where
this cannot be done, glide the iron lightly over the area.
If blisters/bubbles appear in the covering you may be
using too much heat or leaving the iron in one position
too long. Allow the area to cool and keep the iron
moving or lower the temperature. Note: This process
takes time. If you don’t feel like going over the entire
model all at once, do the center wing panel fi rst and
the rest of the parts as needed. Note: A drop or two
of CA debonder on one of your paper towel squares
is great for cleaning the covering in any areas where
the pigmented adhesive from one color has bled onto
another color.
1. Test-fi t, then use 30-minute epoxy to glue both
❏
5/16" × 1-3/16" [8mm × 30mm] hardwood wing dowels
into the leading edge of the center wing panel with
1/4" [6mm] of both dowels protruding. Be certain to
wipe away any excess epoxy around the dowel before
it hardens.
2. Use medium-grit sandpaper to roughen the bottom
❏
edges of the fi berglass belly pan so glue will adhere.
7
3. Bolt the wing to the fuselage with the two 1/4-20 ×
❏
2" [50mm] nylon wing bolts. Test-fi t the belly pan to the
bottom of the wing and fuselage. Make any adjustments
necessary for a good fi t. Use a fi ne-point felt-tip pen to
mark the edges of the belly pan onto the wing.
4. Use the tip of a pointed soldering iron to melt
❏
through the covering 1/16" [1.6mm] inside the lines you
marked and peel away the covering. If you don’t have a
suitable soldering iron, you could cut the covering with
a sharp hobby blade, but obviously use great care NOT
to cut into the wood. Wipe away the ink lines with one
of your paper towel squares and denatured alcohol.
5. Glue the belly pan into position with 30-minute
❏
epoxy—use care not to allow excess epoxy to
inadvertently glue the wing or belly pan to the fuselage.
6. With the wing mounted to the fuselage, hold the
❏
left wing air intake up against the fuselage. Use a
fi ne-point felt-tip pen to mark where to trim the intake
for a perfect fi t.
7. Trim and fi t the intake as necessary until it fi ts well.
❏
8. Holding the intake in position, use a fi ne-point
❏
felt-tip pen to mark its outline onto the top and bottom
of the wing.
9. Use a small pin to perforate the covering just
❏
inside the outlines.
10. Use one of your paper towel squares and
❏
denatured alcohol to wipe the ink lines from the wing.
Hold the intake into position and carefully glue it to
the wing with thin CA. Or, use J&Z R/C 56 canopy
glue instead. If using canopy glue, hold the intake to
the wing with masking tape until the glue dries. Hint:
If using CA, fi rst use CA accelerator to lightly “prime”
the underside of the intake where it contacts the wing.
Allow the accelerator to dry for a few seconds, then
glue in place.
11. Trim, fi t and glue the right intake into position
❏
the same way.
8
HOOK UP THE FLAPS AND AILERONS
Center Panel
Outer Panels
Before hooking up the fl aps and ailerons note the
orientation of the servo hatch covers in the bottom
of the wing panels.
1. Install the rubber grommets and eyelets into the
❏
servos. Hold two hardwood servo mount blocks to
your fl ap servo with thin cardstock or 1/32" [.8mm]
plywood spacers under the servo and between the
blocks and the servo to provide the necessary spacing
for proper vibration isolation. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes
into the servo mount blocks for the servo mounting
screws and mount the servo to the blocks with the
screws that came with the servos.
2. Mount the other fl ap servo to another set of mount
❏
blocks the same way.
3. Temporarily place the servo arms on the fl ap
❏
servos to aid in centering them in the hatch openings.
Use 30-minute epoxy to securely glue the mount blocks
to the hatch covers with the arms centered both fore
and aft and side-to-side in the openings—be certain
to apply epoxy to the ends of the blocks and to the
hatch for a secure bond.
4. Cut two 6" [150mm]
❏
pushrods to a length of 4-1/4"
[108mm] by cutting the unthreaded end. Read the
Expert Tip that follows about
soldering, then solder a clevis
onto one end of each pushrod.
While you have your soldering
equipment out, go ahead and
cut the aileron pushrods to a
length of 3-1/4" [83mm] and
solder the clevises to them
3-1/4" [83 mm]
as well.
Aileron Pushrod
4-1/4" [108 mm]
Flap
Pushrod
HOW T O SOLDER
1. Use denatured alcohol or other solvent to
thoroughly clean the pushrod. Roughen the end of
the pushrod with coarse sandpaper where it is to
be soldered.
2. Apply a few drops of soldering fl ux to the end of
the pushrod, and then use a soldering iron or a torch
to heat it. “Tin” the heated area with silver solder
by applying the solder to the end. The heat of the
pushrod should melt the solder – not the fl ame of
the torch or soldering iron – thus allowing the solder
to fl ow. The end of the wire should be coated with
solder all the way around.
3. Place the clevis on the end of the pushrod. Add
another drop of fl ux, then heat and add solder. The
same as before, the heat of the parts being soldered
should melt the solder, thus allowing it to fl ow. Allow
the joint to cool naturally without being disturbed.
Avoid excess blobs, but make certain the joint is
thoroughly soldered. The solder should be shiny, not
rough. If necessary, reheat the joint and allow to cool.
4. Immediately after the solder has solidifi ed, but
while it is still hot, use a cloth to quickly wipe off
the fl ux before it hardens. Important: After the joint
cools, coat the joint with oil to prevent rust. Note: Do
not use the acid fl ux that comes with silver solder
for electrical soldering.
This is what a properly soldered clevis looks
like – shiny solder with good flow, no blobs and
flux removed.
9
5. Hook up the left fl ap using the hardware shown—
❏
using care not to drill through the top of the wing, drill
1/16" [1.6mm] holes for the #2 × 1/2" [13mm] Phillips
screws, positioning the base of the horn 5/16" [8mm]
from the wing trailing edge as shown. Use #2 washerhead Phillips screws for mounting the hatch.
6. IMPORTANT! Temporarily remove the horn
❏
mounting screws from the fl ap, add a few drops of
thin CA to the holes, allow to harden, and then remount
the horn. Perform the same procedure for the hatch
screws too.
10. Hook up the right fl ap the same way. This
❏
time, connect both servos to the fl ap channel using a
Y-connector and do not adjust the ATVs. Simply adjust
the length of the right fl ap pushrod to duplicate the
throw of the left fl ap.
You can set up the fl ap throw now, or wait until the
model is fi nished and you are programming the radio.
7. If you do wish to set up the fl aps now, guide the
❏
fl ap servo wire through the ribs and the hole in the
top of the wing and temporarily connect the fl ap servo
to the appropriate channel in your receiver (a servo
extension may be useful here). Connect a switch and
a battery to the receiver and retrieve your transmitter
so you can power the servo.
8. Turn on your transmitter and receiver. Start by
❏
setting the ATVs on your fl ap channel in your transmitter
to 50% at both ends (up/down). This should be a good
starting point for the correct fl ap throw. With the fl ap
switch in the
hole in the servo arm should be slightly above the
hatch. With the switch in the extended position (fl aps
down), the outer hole in the servo arm should be
slightly belo w the hatch. Once you have the servo arm
correctly positioned, cut off the unused arms. Caution:
Don’t forget to install the servo arm screw.
9. Mount the hatch to the wing and connect up the
❏
pushrod to the outer hole in the servo arm. Adjust the
length of the pushrod and fi ne tune the ATVs to achieve
the correct fl ap throw as illustrated on page 29.
retracted
position (fl aps up), the outer
10
11. Hook up the ailerons the same as the fl aps with
❏
the following exception: When the servo is centered, the
servo arm should be set approximately ten degrees
forward. This will provide symmetrical aileron throw even
though the servo rotates the same in both directions.
JOIN THE WING PANELS
1. Securely glue together two sets of two plywood
❏
wing joiners to make two complete joiners.
2. Glue the 1/8" [3.2mm] plastic alignment pins
❏
halfway into both ends of the center panel.
3. Test fi t, but do not glue one, then the other outer
❏
panel to the inner panel with the wing joiners. Make
any adjustments necessary for a good fi t.
4. Install two 24" [610mm] servo extension wires
❏
through one side, then the other side of the center
panel that will connect to the aileron servo wires when
the wings are permanently joined (it will be helpful
to temporarily remove the fl ap servo hatches to help
guide the wires).
6. Gather everything required to glue together the
❏
panels: 30-minute epoxy, mixing sticks and cups, epoxy
brushes, masking tape and your paper towel squares
and denatured alcohol for epoxy clean up.
Note: Join only one outer panel to the center panel
at a time with one batch of epoxy—do not attempt to
join both outer panels at the same time or with the
same batch. Otherwise, you may run out of working
time before the epoxy begins to harden.
7. Mix approximately 3/4 oz. of 30-minute epoxy.
❏
Liberally apply epoxy in the spar “pocket” in the outer
wing panel and all the way around the outer half of one
of the joiners. Insert the joiner into the outer panel, and
then coat the pocket in the inner panel and all other
joining surfaces with epoxy. Proceeding quickly, join
the panels and proceed to the next step. IMPORTANT:
Don’t forget to key the tab in the outer fl ap into the
slot in the middle fl ap.
from the wing when you press the panels together.
Use several strips of masking tape to tightly tape the
panels together. As the epoxy hardens and continues
to leak from the seam, one strip at a time, remove
the tape, wipe away the epoxy, and then immediately
replace it with another strip to keep the wing tightly
clamped. Continue to monitor the wing, wiping away
leaking epoxy and making sure the gap remains tight.
9. After the epoxy has hardened, carefully remove all
❏
the tape. If the epoxy is hard but has not yet fully cured,
there is still time to clean up any remaining epoxy with
paper towel squares dampened with denatured alcohol.
10. Join the other panel the same way – don’t forget
❏
fi rst to connect the other aileron servo wire to the other
extension in the wing and secure the connection with
heat shrink tubing. After all the epoxy has been cleaned
up, use a covering iron to re bond any covering that
may have pulled away when removing the tape.
INST ALL THE RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR
If not mounting retractab le landing gear , skip to “Mount
the Fixed Landing Gear” on page 14.
5. Cut one of the included pieces of shrink tubing
❏
in half. Use the tubing to connect the aileron servo
wire coming out of one of the panels to the servo
extension wire coming from the respective end of the
center panel. Carefully shrink the tubing with a hobby
torch or a heat gun.
8. Use paper towel squares dampened with
❏
denatured alcohol to wipe away epoxy as it squeezes
11
1. Note: There are no fl at spots on the ends of the
❏
struts for the set screws in the toothed cam gear. It is
highly recommended that you remove the struts and
grind at least one fl at spot for one of the set screws
in the collar. Otherwise, the strut may slip in the collar
on the gear. When reattaching the gear to the strut,
threadlocker should also be used on the threads of
the set screws.
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