Top Flite A0910 INSTRUCTION BOOK

WARRANTY.....

Top Fite

®

Model

Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from

defects in both material and workmanship at the date of

purchase. This warranty does not cover any component

parts damaged by use or modification.In no case shall Top

Flites’liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.

Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify

this warranty without notice.

In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or

material used for final assembly, no liability shall be

assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from

the use by the user of the final user-assembled product.

By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user

accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability

associated with the use of this product, the buyer is

advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused

condition to the place of purchase.

To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item

to Hobby Services at the following address:

Hobby Services

3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1

Champaign IL 61822

USA

Include a letter stating your name, return shipping

address, as much contact information as possible

(daytime telephone number , fax number, e-mail address),

a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of

the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package the

problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.

Top Flite Models Champaign, IL Telephone [phone], Ext. 5 [e-mail]

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

TOPZ0910 for TOPA0910 V1.0

Entire Contents © Copyright 2006

Wingspan: 81 in [2057mm]

Wing Area: 914 sq in [58.9dm

2

]

Weight: 17-20 lb [7710-9070g]

Wing Loading: 43-50 oz/sq ft

[131-153g/dm

2

]

Length: 66 in [1680mm]

Radio: 6-Channel minimum w/8 servos (8- or 9-channel

w/9 servos required for optional retracts)

Engines (2): .46-.51 cu in [7.5-8.5 cc] 2-stroke or

.70-.80 cu in [11.5-13 cc] 4-stroke

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Radio Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Engine Recommendations . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Optional Retractable Landing Gear . . . . . . . 4

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED. . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Adhesives and Building Supplies. . . . . . . . . 4

Optional Supplies and Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS . . . . . . . . . 5

KIT CONTENTS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

PREPARATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE STAND . . . . . . . . 7

ASSEMBLE THE WING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Install the Ailerons and Flaps . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Mount the Plywood Engine Nacelles . . . . . . 9

Install the Flap, Throttle and Aileron

Servos and Pushrods. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Mount the Wing Tip to the Wing. . . . . . . . . 11

Install the Engine and Fuel Tank . . . . . . . . 12

Install the Fiberglass Nacelles. . . . . . . . . . 13

Install the Spinners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Join the Wings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Install the Elevator and Rudder . . . . . . . . . 15

Install the Cockpit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Install the Radio, Elevator

and Rudder Servos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

INSTALL THE LANDING GEAR . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Nose Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Main Gear. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR . . . . . . . . . . 22

Nose Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Main Gear. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Install the Retract Hardware . . . . . . . . . . . 25

FINAL ASSEMBLY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Completing the Radio Installation . . . . . . . 26

Connecting the Lighting System . . . . . . . . 26

Apply the Decals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY . . . . . . . . . . 27

Check the Control Directions. . . . . . . . . . . 27

Set the Control Throws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Balance the Model (C.G.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Balance the Model Laterally . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Adjusting the Retractable Landing Gear. . . 29

PREFLIGHT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Identify Your Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Charge the Batteries. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Balance Propellers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Ground Check. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Range Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

ENGINE RUN IN INSTRUCTIONS . . . . . . . . . . 30

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . 30

AMA SAFETY CODE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

IMAA SAFETY CODE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

CHECK LIST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

FLYING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Takeoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Flight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Landing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Engine Out Procedure. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations on the purchase of your Cessna

310! This is one of the finest ARF aircraft we have

ever produced. It is an airplane that is sure to turn

heads at the field and get everyone’s attention as

soon as you are airborne. The molded fiberglass

fuselage and wing tips have faithfully re-created this

classic twin with many fine details and a tremendous

paint finish. Many of the bad tendencies of twin

engine aircraft have been engineered out of this

model so this plane is easily within the capability of

the average intermediate pilot. We are sure this

plane will bring you many hours of flying enjoyment!

For the latest technical updates or manual corrections

to the Cessna 310 visit the Top Flite web site at

www.top-flite.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, then

select the Cessna 310 ARF. If there is new technical

information or changes to this model a “tech notice”

box will appear in the upper left corner of the page.

AMA

In addition to joining a radio control club, we strongly

recommend you join the AMA (Academy of Model

Aeronautics). The AMA is the governing body of

model aviation and membership is required to fly at

AMA clubs. Though joining the AMA provides many

benefits, one of the primary reasons to join is liability

protection. Coverage is not limited to flying at

contests or on the club field. It even applies to flying

at public demonstrations and air shows. Failure to

comply with the Safety Code (excerpts printed in the

back of the manual) may endanger insurance

coverage. Additionally, training programs and

instructors are available at AMA club sites to help

you get started the right way. There are over 2,500

AMA chartered clubs across the country. Contact the

AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below:

Academy of Model

Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at: www.modelaircraft.org

IMPORTANT!!!

Two of the most important things you can do to

preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to

avoid flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying

near or over groups of people.

- 2 -

IMAA

The Top Flite Cessna 310 is an excellent sport-scale

model and is eligible to fly in IMAA ev ents.The IMAA

(International Miniature Aircraft Association) is an

organization that promotes non-competitive flying of

giant-scale models. If you plan to attend an IMAA

event, obtain a copy of the IMAA Safety Code by

contacting the IMAA at the following address or

telephone number, or b y logging on to their web site .

IMAA

205 S. Hilldale Road

Salina, KS 67401

[phone]

www.fly-imaa.org/imaa/sanction.html.

SCALE COMPETITION

Though the Top Flite Cessna 310 is an ARF and

may not have the same level of detail as an “all-out”

scratch-built competition model, it is a scale model

nonetheless and is therefore eligible to compete in

the Fun Scale class in AMA competition (we receive

many favorable reports of Top Flite ARFs in scale

competition!). In Fun Scale, the “builder of the

model” rule does not apply.To receive the five points

for scale documentation, the only proof required that

a full size aircraft of this type in this paint/markings

scheme did exist is a single sheet such as a kit box

cover from a plastic model, a photo, or a profile

painting, etc. If the photo is in black and white other

written documentation of color must be provided.

Contact the AMA for a rule book with full details.

If you would like photos of full-size Cessna 310s for

scale documentation, or if you would like to study

the photos to add more scale details, photo packs

are available from:

Bob’s Aircraft Documentation

3114 Y uk on A ve

Costa Mesa, CA 92626

Telephone: [phone]

Fax:[phone]

www.bobsairdoc.com

1.Your Cessna 310 should not be considered a toy, but

rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very

much like a full-size airplane. Because of its

performance capabilities, the Cessna 310, if not

assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause

injury to yourself or spectators and damage to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the

instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as

doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model.

In a few cases the instructions may diff er slightly from

the photos.In those instances the written instructions

should be considered as correct.

3.You must take time to build straight, trueand strong.

4.You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-

class condition, and correctly sized engines and

components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the

building process.

5. You must correctly install all R/C and other

components so that the model operates correctly on

the ground and in the air.

6. You must check the operation of the model before

every flight to insure that all equipment is operating and

that the model has remained structurally sound.Be sure

to check clevises or other connectors often and replace

them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.

7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown

this type of model before, we recommend that you get

the assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club

for your first flights.If you’ re not a member of a club , your

local hobby shop has information about clubs in your

area whose membership includes experienced pilots.

8. WARNING: The cowl, fuselage, nacelles and tail

cone included in this kit are made of fiberglass, the

fibers of which may cause eye, skin and respiratory

tract irritation. Never blow into a part to remove

fiberglass dust, as the dust will blow back into your

eyes. Always wear safety goggles, a particle mask

and rubber gloves when grinding, drilling and sanding

fiberglass parts.Vacuum the parts and the work area

thoroughly after working with fiberglass parts.

Remember: Take your time and follow the

instructions to end up with a well-built model that

is straight and true.

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

This is a partial list of items required to finish the

Cessna 310 that may require planning or decision

making before starting to build. Order numbers are

provided in parentheses.

RADIO EQUIPMENT

Transmitter and Receiver

A minimum of a 6 channel radio is required but

because of the number of servos in this model you

may wish to eliminate the use of “Y” connectors. An

8- or 9- channel radio may be preferable.

Servos

(2) 40 oz-in servos for the throttles

(1) 40 oz-in servo for the retract (optional)

(6) 54 oz-in servos 2-flaps, 2-ailerons,

1-rudder, 1-elevator

We, as the kit manuf acturer , pro vide you with a top

quality, thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but

ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished

model depend on how you build it; therefore, we

cannot in any way guarantee the performance of

your completed model, and no representations

are expressed or implied as to the performance or

safety of your completed model.

PRO TECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF & OTHERS

FOLLO W THESE IMPORT ANT

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

- 3 -

Servo Extensions

(3) Y-har ness (HCAM2751 for Futaba

®

)

(4) 6" [150mm] extension (HCAM2701 for Futaba)

(2) 12" [300mm] extension (HCAM2711 for Futaba)

(4) 24" [610mm] extension (HCAM2721 for Futaba)

Batteries

1000 mAh NiCd battery for the receiver

500 mAh NiCd battery for the lighting system

ENGINE RECOMMENDATIONS

Engine

The recommended engine size for the Cessna 310 is

a .46-.50 two-stroke. This airplane was extensively

flown on the O.S.

®

.46AX two stroke engines and

Bisson muffler. Though your instincts might tell you

that a plane of this size and weight will be

underpowered with these engines, this is not true.

During our test flights we used these engines for

taking off from grass and asphalt with no problems.

The climb out from take off was impressive. Once the

plane was at altitude the plane was flown at 1/2 to 3/4

throttle. As par t of our testing the plane was flown on

a single engine from both the right and left nacelle.

The O.S. .46 was enough power to maintain flying

altitude, fly a figure eight, and a rectangle approach to

the runway. The airplane has the power to fly on one

engine but not enough to climb out from a missed

landing approach.The O.S..46 or .50 SX is the engine

of choice to keep ev erything hidden under the nacelle.

Muffler

The Bisson Pitts Muffler (BISG4046) fits very well in

the nacelle and is the recommended after market

muffler for the Cessna 310.

OPTIONAL RETRACTABLE

LANDING GEAR

Robart Cessna 310 Retracts (ROBQ1623)

Robart Standard Air Kit with variable

rate valve (ROBQ2302)

10' [1meter] Pressure tubing (ROBQ2369)

(2) Air line quick disconnects (ROBQ2395)

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

ADHESIVES & BUILDING SUPPLIES

This is the list of Adhesives and Building Supplies

that are required to finish the Cessna 310.

❏ 3' [900mm] standard silicone fuel

tubing (GPMQ4131)

❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Thin Pro

™

CA (GPMR6001)

❏ 1 oz. [30g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6008)

❏ Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)

❏ Pro 6-minute epoxy (GPMR6045)

❏ Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 5/64" [2mm], 3/32"

[2.4mm], 7/64" [2.8mm], 1/8" [3.2mm], 11/64"

[4.4mm]

❏ Silver solder w/flux (GPMR8070)

❏ #1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)

❏ #11 blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)

❏ Medium T-pins (100, HCAR5150)

❏ Masking tape (TOPR8018)

❏ Threadlocker thread locking cement (GPMR6060)

❏ Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)

❏ Hot melt glue and glue gun (available at hobby,

craft and hardware outlets)

OPTIONAL SUPPLIES & TOOLS

Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the

manual that will help you build the Cessna 310.

❏ 21st Century

®

sealing iron (COVR2700)

❏ 21st Century iron cover (COVR2702)

❏ 4 oz. [113g] aerosol CA activator (GPMR634)

❏ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)

❏ Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060)

❏ Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)

❏ Mixing cups (GPMR8056)

❏ Hobbico Duster

™

compressed air (HCAR5500)

❏ Rotary tool such as Dremel

®

❏ Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8020)

❏ Servo horn dr ill (HCAR0698)

❏ Dead Center

™

Engine Mount Hole

Locator (GPMR8130)

❏ AccuThrow

™

Deflection Gauge (GPMR2405)

❏ CG Machine

™

(GPMR2400)

❏ Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer (TOPQ5700)

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

• There are two types of screws used in this kit:

Sheet metal screws are designated by a number

and a length. For example #6 x 3/4" [19mm]

This is a number six screw that is

3/4" [19mm] long.

Machine screws are designated by a number, threads

per inch, and a length.For example 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm]

This is a number four screw that

is 3/4" [19mm] long with forty

threads per inch.

Socket head cap screws are designated by a

number, threads per inch and a length.For example

4-40 x 3/4" [19mm]

This is a number four screw that

is 3/4" [19mm] long with forty

threads per inch

.

• When you see the term test fit in the instructions, it

means that you should first position the part on the

assembly without using any glue, and then slightly

modify or custom fit the part as necessar y for the

best fit.

•Whenever the term glue is written you should rely upon

your experience to decide what type of glue to use.

When a specific type of adhesive works best for that

step, the instructions will make a recommendation.

• Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use

either 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute

epoxy. When 30-minute epoxy is specified it is

highly recommended that you use only 30-minute

(or 45-minute) epoxy, because you will need the

working time and/or the additional strength.

• Photos and sketches are placed bef ore the step they

refer to .Frequently you can study photos in follo wing

steps to get another view of the same parts.

- 4 -

• The Cessna 310 is factory-covered with Top Flite

MonoKote

®

film. Should repairs ever be required,

MonoKote can be patched with additional MonoKote

purchased separately. MonoKote is packaged in six-

foot rolls, but some hob by shops also sell it by the f oot.

If only a small piece of MonoKote is needed for a

minor patch, perhaps a fellow modeler would giv e y ou

some. MonoKote is applied with a model airplane

covering iron, but in an emergency a regular iron could

be used. A roll of MonoKote includes full instructions

for application. Following are the colors used on this

model and order numbers for six foot rolls.

White - TOPQ0204

Sky Blue - TOPQ0206

Insignia Blue - TOPQ0207

METRIC CONVERSIONS

To convert inches to millimeters, multiply inches by 25.4

.4mm = 1/64"

.8mm = 1/32"

1.6mm = 1/16"

2.4mm = 3/32"

3.2mm = 1/8"

4mm = 5/32"

4.8mm = 3/16"

6.4mm = 1/4"

9.5mm = 3/8"

12.7mm = 1/2"

15.9mm = 5/8"

19mm = 3/4"

25.4mm = 1"

50.8mm = 2"

76.2mm = 3"

152.4mm = 6"

304.8mm = 12"

381mm = 15"

457.2mm = 18"

533.4mm = 21"

609.6mm = 24"

762mm = 30"

914.4mm = 36"

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS

Replacement parts for the Top Flite Cessna 310 are

available using the order numbers in the

Replacement Parts List that follows. The fastest,

most economical service can be provided by your

hobby dealer or mail-order company.

To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Hobbico web site

at www.hobbico.com. Choose “Where to Buy” at the

bottom of the menu on the left side of the page.

Follow the instructions provided on the page to

locate a U.S., Canadian or International dealer.

Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby

Services by calling [phone], or via facsimile

at [phone], but full retail prices and shipping

and handling charges will apply. Illinois and Nevada

residents will also be charged sales tax. If ordering

via fax, include a Visa

®

or MasterCard

®

number and

expiration date for payment.

Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:

Hobby Services

3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1

Champaign IL 61822

Be certain to specify the order number exactly as

listed in the Replacement Parts List. Payment by

credit card or personal check only; no C.O.D.

If additional assistance is required for any reason

contact Product Support at:

[phone]

[e-mail]

REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST

Description How to purchase

Missing pieces Contact Product Support

Instruction manual Contact Product Support

Full-size plans Not available

Order # Description

TOPA1660 Wing Set

TOPA1661 Fuselage Set

TOPA1662 Wing Tip Set

TOPA1663 Tail Set

TOPA1664 Left Engine Pod

TOPA1665 Right Engine Pod

TOPA1666 Landing Gear

TOPA1667 Decal Set

TOPA1668 Wing Tubes (2)

TOPA1669 Tail Tubes (2)

TOPA1670 Windshield/Windows

TOPA1671 Gear Doors

TOPA1672 Aluminum Spinner

TOPA1673 Tail Cone

TOPA1674 Rudder

- 5 -

- 6 -

PARTS NOT PHOTOGRAPHED

(2) 2-56 Metal Clevis

(1) 4-40 Threaded Metal Clevis

(2) 4-40 Solder Clevis

(4) Brass Screw Lock Connector

(2) 4-40 Nut

(8) 6-32 Blind Nut

(2) 8-32 Blind Nut

(2) 2-56 Nut

(3) .080 Nut

(7) 1/4-20 Blind Nut

(2) Large Nylon Control Horn

(6) 1/4-20 Bolts

(4) 2-56 Nylon Clevis

(2) Large Black Control Horn

(1) 2-56 Nylon Ball Link Socket

(4) Nylon Retainer

(2) CA Hinge Strip

(5) Faslink

(2) 36" Gray outer Pushrod Tube

(9) Silicone Clevis Keeper

(8) #4 x 1/2" [13mm] Sheet

Metal Screw

(2) 4-40 x 1/4" [6mm] SHCS

(32) #2 x 3/8" [10mm] SMS

(16) #6 x 1/2" [13mm] SMS

(4) 8-32 x 1" [25mm] Slotted MS

16 6-32 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS

(3) .080 Ball

(8) #2 x 3/8" [10mm] Wood Screw

(2) 8-32 x 1" [25mm] SHCS

(4) 4-40 x 1/8" [3mm] SHS

(8) #2 x 1/2" [13mm] SMS

(2) .074 x12" Wire [305mm]

(5) .074 x 6" [152mm] Wire

(2) 4-40 x 36" [914mm] Threaded Rod

(32) #6 Flat Washer

(2) #4 Flat Washer

(20) #2 Flat Washer

(2) #8 Lock Washer

(14) #8 Flat Washer

(28) #6 Lock Washer

(4) Crimp Connector

(1) 1/4-20 Thumb Screw

(4) Flat Nylon Strap

(4) Humped Landing Gear Strap

(3) 4x200mm Nylon Tie Strap

(1) .5 x 1000mm Cable

(2) 8x40mm Nylon Dowel with Pin

(4) 8x30mm Nylon Dowel

(2) 2-56 Brass Connector

(8) Pinned Hinge

(2) Aluminum Door Mount Brackets

(8) 2 x 10mm Screws

(8) 2mm Nuts

(6) Wheel Collars and Set Screws

(3) Fiberglass Landing Gear Doors

(1) 4-40 x 12" [305mm] Fully

Threaded Rod

KIT CONTENTS

1. Fuselage

2. Nacelles (L&R)

3. Spinners

4. Engine Mounts

5. Fuel Tanks

6. Wood Nacelle (Left)

14. Pilot

15. Wing Fairing (L&R)

16. Gear Door (L&R)

17. Landing Gear Covers

18. Wheels

19. Landing Gear

7. Wood Nacelle (Right)

8. Wing Half (Left)

9. Wing Half (Right)

10. Wing Tip (Right)

11. Wing Tip (Left)

12. Lower Nacelle Covers

13. Cockpit Kit

20. Ser vo and Battery Tray

21. Wing Joiner Tubes

22. Stab T ubes

23. Elevator Joiner Wire

24. Stabilizer (L&R)

25. Rudder Control Wire

26. Rudder

10

12

4

3

3

4

5

7

2

9

14

13

24

1

23

16

17

2

6

15

18

19

22

25

26

24

8

5

11

20

21

- 7 -

PREPARATIONS

❏ 1. If you have not done so already, remove the

major parts of the kit from the box and inspect for

damage. If any parts are damaged or missing,

contact Product Support at the address or telephone

number listed in the “Ordering Replacement Parts”

section on page 5.

❏ 2.Remove the tape and separate the ailerons and

flaps from the wing and the elevators from the stab.

Use a covering iron with a covering soc k on high heat

to tighten the covering if necessary. Apply pressure

over sheeted areas to thoroughly bond the covering

to the wood.

ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE STAND

Your kit includes a stand that can be used during the

assembly process and as a useful tool for transporting

the airplane to the field as well as assembly of the

airplane at the field.

❏ 1. The stand consists of four foam cradle

components and two PVC tubes. There are two

different cutouts in the cradle.The curved section fits

the front of the fuselage while the one that has the

flat cut fits the rear half of the fuselage.

❏ 2. The top and bottom stand components will fit

snugly together. Fit the bottom with the top cradle

(the one with the flat cut) as shown.

❏ 3. When placed into the cradle upside down the

fuselage is elevated so the tail and the cabin top are off

of your work bench. You can also place the fuselage

upright in the cradle.If you install the fixed landing gear

and wish to transport the fuselage or work on it on your

workbench, you will want to place the other bottom

cradle component onto the front cradle.This will allow

enough clearance for the nose gear.

ASSEMBLE THE WING

Install the Ailerons and Flaps

Assemble the right wing first so your

work matches the photos.

❏❏1. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole, 1/2" deep in the

center of each hinge slot to allow the CA to “wick”in.

Follow-up with a #11 blade to clean out the slots.

Hint: If you ha v e one , use a high-speed rotary tool to

drill the holes.

❏❏2. Use a sharp #11 blade to cut a strip of

covering from the hinge slots in the wing and aileron.

❏❏3.Cut three 1" x 1" [25mm x25mm] hingesfrom

the CA hing e strip. Snip off the corners so they go

in easier.

❏❏4. Test fit the ailerons to the wing with the

hinges.If the hinges don’t remain centered, stick a pin

through the middle of the hinge to hold it in position.

❏❏5.Remove any pins you may have inserted into

the hinges. Adjust the aileron so there is a small gap

between the LE of the aileron and the wing.The gap

should be small, just enough to see light through or

to slip a piece of paper through.

❏❏6. Apply six drops of thin CA to the top and

bottom of each hinge. Do not use CA accelerator.

After the CA has fully hardened, test the hinges by

pulling on the aileron.

❏❏7. If you have not removed the flap from the

wing, do so. Locate four nylon pinned hinges. Apply

a drop of oil or work Vaseline into the hinge. This will

prevent glue from getting into the hinge in the next

step. Be careful not to get oil on the portion of the

hinge that slides into the wing and flap.If this should

happen be sure to clean the hinge with alcohol

before applying the glue.

❏❏8. Apply epoxy to one end of each hinge and

into each of the four holes in the wing trailing edge in

the flap compartment. Insert the hinge into the hole,

positioning the hinge as shown.

❏❏9. Apply epoxy to the opposite end of the hinge

and the hinge holes in the flap.Insert the flap onto the

hinges. Set the wing aside until the glue has cured.

❏ 10. Repeat steps 1- 9 for the left wing panel.

- 8 -

Mount the Plywood Engine Nacelles

❏

1. Remove the top plate and fuel tank from the

plywood engine nacelle. Set the two plywood

engine nacelles on your workbench as shown in the

photograph. Looking at the top of the nacelle you

must note the difference in the angle of the firewall

of each nacelle. Each nacelle has 4° of outward

thrust built into it. Write the word “left” and “right” on

each nacelle so you can easily identify each one.

❏❏2. The wing has strings running through it for

pulling servo leads through the wing.The string is taped

at the root rib, the wing tip and inside the aileron servo

compartment. Remove the tape and pull the excess

string into the front of the wing where the nacelle will be

mounted. Re-tape the end of the string to the rib.

❏❏3.Cut the strings.Begin sliding the right nacelle

in place and at the same time feed the string through

the holes in each side of the nacelle. Re-tie the

strings.Apply a drop of thin CA to the knot to prevent

it from coming apart.

❏❏4. Slide the nacelle completely into the wing.

Attach the nacelle to the wing with an 8-32 x 1"

[25mm] socket head cap screw, a #8 lock washer

and a #8 flat washer. Apply a couple of drops of

thread locker onto the bolt before tightening the bolt

to the wing and nacelle.

❏❏5. Drill 3/32" [2.4mm] holes through each of the

two pilot holes located at the back of the nacelle.Drill

through the nacelle and into the hardwood block

located in the wing. Inser t and remove a #6 x 1/2"

[13mm] screw into each of the holes.Apply a couple

drops of thin CA into the holes to harden the threads.

Once the glue has cured install the #6 screws and #6

flat washers into each of the holes.

❏ 6. Repeat steps 1- 5 for the left wing panel.

Install Flap,Throttle and Aileron

Servos and Pushrods

❏❏1.Install the flap servo into the rear servo opening.

Insert and remove a servo mounting screw into each of

the pre-drilled holes. Apply a couple drops of thin CA

- 9 -

into the holes to harden the threads.Once the glue has

cured re-install the servo mounting screws.Be sure the

servo lead comes up through the slot alongside of the

servo. When installing the flap ser vo in the right wing

panel, the servo arm should be pointed towards the

wing tip.When installing the servo in the left wing, the

arm should be pointed towards the wing center.

❏❏2. Center a black control horn in the opening

above the flap , positioning it as shown (the control horn

should be backwards from what would be considered

the normal direction of a control horn.) Drill a 1/16"

[1.6mm] hole through each of the mounting holes in the

control horn and into the plywood plate in the flap.Drill

only through the plywood plate. DO NOT drill through

the flap. Inser t and remove a #2 x 3/8" [10mm] screw

into each of the holes.Apply a couple drops of thin CA

into the holes to harden the threads.Once the glue has

cured attach the horn to the flap with four

#2 x 3/8" [10mm] screws.

❏❏3.Screw a nylon clevis onto a .074 x 6" [152mm]

threaded wire 20 turns. Slide a nylon clevis retainer

onto the clevis. Install the clevis into the outermost

hole of the control horn. Then slide the silicone

retainer over the clevis. Drill a 5/64" [2mm] hole in the

outer hole of the servo arm. Position the servo arm as

shown and be sure the flap is fully closed.With a fine

tip marker, mark the wire where it aligns with the outer

hole of the servo arm. Make a 90 degree bend on the

mark. Cut the wire so the wire is 3/8" [10mm] in length

after the bend. Insert the wire into the servo arm and

lock it in place with a nylon Faslink.

❏❏4. Install the throttle ser vo into the servo opening.

(Note that the servo is mounted on the bottom of the

nacelle).Insert and remove a servo mounting screw into

each of the pre-drilled holes.Apply a couple drops of thin

CA into the holes to harden the threads. Once the glue

has cured, re-install the servo mounting screws.

❏❏5. Install a brass screw lock

connector, nylon retainer ring and a

4-40 x 1/4" [6mm] socket head cap

screw onto the servo arm. Then

center the servo and install the arm

onto the servo.

❏❏6. Install a 6" [152mm] servo extension onto the

throttle and flap servo leads. Secure the extension to

the lead with tape, a piece of shrink tube or some

other method to keep them from coming unplugged.

❏❏7. Install a 24" [610mm] servo extension onto

the aileron servo lead. Secure the extension to the

lead with tape, a piece of shrink tube or some other

method to keep them from coming unplugged.

❏❏8. Install the aileron servo between the wooden

rails under the aileron servo cover using the

- 10 -

SERVO

HORN

PUSHROD WIRE

2-56 (.074")

FASLINK

- 11 -

hardware that came with the servo. Drill a 1/16"

[1.6mm] hole through each of the servo mounting

holes and into the servo mounting rails. Inser t and

remove a servo mounting screw into each of the

holes. Apply a couple drops of thin CA into the holes

to harden the threads. Once the glue has cured,

re-install the servo mounting screws.

❏❏9. Center the servo.Then, install a large ser vo

horn to the servo.

❏❏10. Tie the string from the ser vo compartment

to the servo lead. Pull the lead through the wing

exiting at the nacelle.Leave the string attached to the

lead for now.

❏❏11. Install the aileron ser vo cover to the wing

with four #2x 3/8"[10mm] wood screws.

❏❏12.Look closely under the covering of the aileron

and you will see a plywood mounting plate for the

control horn. Place a nylon clevis on the plate in line

with the servo arm. Mark the location of the mounting

holes onto the aileron. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole on

the marks, drilling through the plywood plate

but not

through the top of the aileron. Insert and remove a #2

x3/8" [10mm] screw into each of the holes. Apply a

couple drops of thin CA into the holes to harden the

threads. Once the glue has cured, attach the horn to

the aileron with two #2 x 3/8" [10mm] screws.

❏❏13.Screw a nylon clevis onto a .074 x 6" [152mm]

threaded wire 20 turns.Slide a nylon clevis retainer onto

the clevis.Install the clevis into the second hole from the

end of the control horn. Then slide the silicone retainer

over the cle vis.Drill a 5/64" [2mm] hole in the outer hole

of the servo arm. Center the servo and position the

servo arm as shown. Then, center the aileron. With a

fine tip marker, mark the wire where it aligns with the

outer hole of the servo arm. Make a 90 degree bend on

the mark. Cut the wire so the wire is 3/8" [10mm] in

length after the bend.Insert the wire into the servo arm

and lock it in place with a nylon Faslink.

❏ 14. Repeat steps 1- 13 for the left wing panel.

Mount the Wing Tip to the Wing

❏❏1. Glue two 1/4" x1/4" x 3/4" [6mm x 6mm x

19mm] balsa triangle blocks onto each side of the

slot in the wing.

❏❏2.Examine both wing tips to determine which is

the left and the right. When installed on the wing the

tip should curve upward towards the top of the wing.

❏❏3. Pull the wires for the wing tip lights from

inside of the wing tip. Tie the end of the wire to the

string located on the end of the wing. Pull the wire

through the wing exiting at the nacelle. Note: at this

point all of the servo leads and the wire for the light

should be at the nacelle.

❏❏4. Test fit the wing tip to the wing. Once you’re

satisfied everything fits, apply epoxy into the pocket

in the end of the wing, the plywood tongue on the

wing tip, the tip of the wing and the root rib of the

wing tip. Tape the wing tip to the wing. Set it aside

until the glues has cured.

❏❏5. At this point the servo leads as well as the

lead for the wing tip lights should be located at the

nacelle. Untie both of the strings from the servo

leads.If you will be installing retractable landing gear,

tape one of the strings to the wing. This will be used

later to pull the air lines through the wing. Tie all of

the leads to the other string. If you will be installing

fixed gear tie two leads to each string.This will make

it easier to pull the leads through the wing. Pull all of

the servo leads and the wing tip light wire through

the wing, exiting through the hole in the top of the

wing.Untie the leads and then tape all of the leads to

the top of the wing, preventing the leads from falling

back into the wing. If you are installing retracts be

sure to leave the string taped to the root rib.

❏ 6. Repeat steps 1- 5 for the left wing panel.

Install Engine and Fuel Tank

❏❏1. Cut the tabs from the engine mount. Install

the engine mount to the firewall with four 6-32x 3/4"

[25mm] socket head cap screws , #6 flat washers and

#6 lock washers.

❏❏2. Position the engine on the engine mount so

the distance from the firewall to the thrust washer

measures 4-5-8" [118mm]. Mark the location of the

mounting holes onto the engine mount. Drill and tap

the engine mount with a 6-32 tap for each of the four

bolts.Mount the engine to the mount with four 6-32 x

3/4" [25mm] socket head cap screws , #6 flat washers

and #6 lock washers.

❏❏3. Assemble the fuel tank as shown in the

sketch.When tightening the center screw be sure not

to over tighten it.You just want it snug enough to pull

the rubber stopper tight against the tank.

❏❏4.Install the tank into the fuselage with the neck

of the tank through the firewall.

- 12 -

SILICONE

FUEL LINE

FUEL TANK

FUEL CLUNK

FUEL

PIPE

FIREWALL

TO NEEDLE

VALVE

PRESSURE

TAP TO

MUFFLER

❏❏5. From one of the 1/4" x 1/4" x 12" [6mm x 6mm

x 305mm] balsa sticks, cut two sticks to a length of 1"

[25mm]. Insert them into the square openings on each

side of the bottom of the nacelle. Make sure they

extend into the nacelle far enough to support the fuel

tank.Then, glue them in place.

❏❏6. Install silicone fuel tubing onto the aluminum

tubes from the fuel tank. The line with the fuel clunk

will feed to the fuel inlet at the needle valve and the

other will attach to the pressure tap on the muffler.If

you choose to use some kind of an external fuel

valve, follow the instructions with your particular

brand of fuel valve.You can also install a third line to

the tank and use it for filling the tank.The method you

use is your choice but make your decision before

moving onto the installation of the fuel tank.

❏❏7 Install a brass screw lock connector, nylon

retainer ring and a 4-40 x 1/4" [6mm] socket head cap

screw onto the throttle arm on the engine. Cut the

threaded portion off of a 2-56 x 12" [305mm] pushrod

wire. Slide the wire through the screw lock connector

on the throttle arm, pushing it back towards the throttle

servo.Bend the wire as needed to clear the top of the

fuel tank and reach the screw lock connector. Tighten

the set screws against the wire pushrod.

❏❏8. Epoxy the top of the nacelle in place.

A note about the muffler: A wide variety of mufflers

are available. On our O.S .46 we used the Bison

muffler (BISG4046) and cut the pipes to a length of

3/8" [10mm]. This allowed the cowl to slip over the

engine and muffler yet still allows the e xhaust to clear

the inside of the nacelle. Cut the pipes as shown.

Leave the muffler off the engine for now. This will

make the installation of the fiberglass nacelle easier.

❏ 9. Repeat steps 1- 8 for the left wing panel.

Install Fiberglass Nacelle

❏❏1. Glue two of the 1/4 x 1-1/8" [6mm x 30mm]

nylon dowels into the leading edge of the wing on

each side of the nacelle with epoxy. The dowels

should extend from the leading edge of the wing

approximately1/2" [13mm].

❏❏2. Place the two nacelles side by side. Each

have outboard thrust angles built into the front of the

nacelle. Identify the right and left and mar k this on

the inside of the nacelle.

- 13 -

❏❏3. Slide the nacelle over the engine and onto

the locating dowels on the leading edge of the wing.

Note: You may have to remove the needle valve

and/or the needle valve spring to get the nacelle

completely over the engine.Secure the nacelle to the

wing with two 1/4-20 x 2" [51mm] nylon bolts on the

bottom of the wing.

❏❏4. Place the nacelle belly pan onto the bottom

of the wing, placing it tight against the nacelle.Drill a

1/16" [1.6mm] hole at the location shown, making

sure to drill only through the wood under the pan.

Install and then remove a #2 x 1" [25mm] sheet metal

screw into each of the holes. Apply a few drops of

thin CA into the holes. After the glue has cured,

screw the belly pan in place.

❏❏5. Make the necessary cut-outs for the needle

valve, muffler, glow driver, etc.

❏❏6. It is very important that you provide an air

exhaust to allow the engine to be cooled properly.

With the engine completely cowled, you must provide

approximately 5 sq. in. [.35 dm

2

] of exhaust area on

the bottom of the wing nacelle.

❏❏7. Epoxy one of the two 5/16 x 1-1/2" [8mm x

40mm] nylon dowels with the steel pin in its center

into the hole in the leading edge of the wing. Insert

the pin fully into the hole in the leading edge.

❏ 8. Repeat steps 1-7 for the other wing.

Install the Spinners

❏❏Install the spinners to the engine with the

hardware included with the spinners.When mounting

the propellers you will need to use the nut that came

with the spinners rather than the nut that came with

the engine.

Join the Wings

❏ 1. Slide the two aluminum tubes into one of the

wing halves. Slide the other wing onto the tubes.

Push the wings tightly together.

- 14 -

❏ 2. Inser t the 1/4-20 thumbscrew into the opening

in the right wing panel.Tighten the screw, pulling the

wings together.

❏ 3. Place the fuselage upside down into the foam

stand. Install the wing onto the fuselage, securing it

with two 1/4-20 nylon wing bolts.

❏ 4. Locate the two fiberglass wing fairings. Place

them on each wing. Trace the outline of the fairing

onto the wing.Using a sharp modeling knife, carefully

cut the covering from the wing. Be careful to only cut

through the covering, not the surface of the wing.

❏ 5. Glue the fairings to the wing. After the glue has

cured, remove the wing from the fuselage and

separate the two halves of the wing.

ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE

Install the Elevator and Rudder

❏ 1. Locate the rudder control wire and the r udder

control horn.Note that the wire has a flat spot pre-cut

in the end of the wire.

❏ 2. Slip the rudder control wire into the hole in the

top of the fuselage.

❏ 3. Put a 4-40 nut onto a 4-40 x 36" [914mm] wire

pushrod.Screw the wire pushrod into the nylon swiv el

connector approximately 20 turns. Lock the nut

against the connector.From the back of the fuselage,

slide the pushrod wire into the center plastic guide

tube that is pre-installed in the fuselage. Slide the

rudder control wire through the nylon bearing. Place

the rudder control horn onto the rudder control wire.

When installing it over the wire be sure the control

arm is on the left side of the fuselage.Remove the set

screw from the control horn and apply a couple of

drops of thread locker to the threads. Re-insert the

screw into the control horn, tightening the set screw

against the flat spot on the rudder control wire.

- 15 -

- 16 -

❏ 4. Insert the elev ator joiner wire into the holes in the

sides of the fuselage following the sequence shown.

❏ 5. Slide the aluminum stabilizer tubes into the

back of the fuselage.Test fit the two stabilizer halves

onto the tubes. Be sure the stabilizer fits snug to the

sides of the fuselage.Once you are satisfied with the

fit, remove the stabilizers from the tubes.

❏ 6. WIth 200-grit sandpaper, roughen the fuselage

where the stabilizers make contact with the fuselage.

Glue the stabilizer halves to the fuselage with epoxy.

Tape the stabilizers in place until the glue has hardened.

❏ 7. Cut six 1" x 1" [25mm x 25mm] hinges from the

CA hinge strip. Snip off the corners so they go in

easier. Install three hinges into each of the elevator

halves and trial fit the elevators to the stab. Once

satisfied with the fit, remove the elevators from the

stab. Apply a small amount of epoxy to the elevator

joiner wires.With the hinges installed in the elevator,

slide the elevators onto the joiner wire and into the

hinge slots, securing the hinges to the stabilizer with

thin CA the same way you did the ailerons.

❏ 8. Cut three 1" x 1" [25mm x 25mm] hinges from the

CA hinge strip.Snip off the corners so they go in easier.

❏ 9. Insert the hinges into the hinge slots of the

vertical fin. Keep the hinges centered using a pin.

❏ 10. Trial fit the rudder onto the hinges and the

vertical fin. Once satisfied with the fit, remove the

rudder. Apply a small amount of epoxy to the rudder

wire.With the hinges installed in the rudder, slide the

rudder in position.Secure the hinges with thin CA the

same way as was done for the elevator.

Install the Cockpit

The cockpit needs to be installed now, before the

installation of the servos.Do not skip this step thinking

you will install the cockpit after the rest of the plane is

complete. The cockpit can be installed permanently

but if you’re like most modelers you may lik e the ability

to remove it at a future date.The following instructions

will allow the cockpit to be removed should there ever

be a need to do so.

❏ 1. Locate the components of the cockpit interior.

Cut the instrument panel decal from the decal sheet

and install it to the instrument panel bulkhead. Glue

the four seat backs, the instrument panel and the

back of the cockpit in place.Glue pilot in place.

❏ 2. Located inside of the fuselage, on both sides of

the fuselage, are wood tabs.These are to be used to

help locate the cockpit floor. Position the cockpit just

above these blocks.

❏ 3. Install the cockpit into position with a hot melt

glue gun.This glue sets quickly yet is easily removab le

should you ever need to remove the cockpit.If you do

not have a hot melt glue gun you can also use silicone

though this will take longer to set up.

- 17 -

Install Radio, Elevator & Rudder Servos

❏ 1. Plug the wire from the landing light located in the

nose of the fuselage into the wiring harness inside

the fuselage.

❏ 2.If you plan to install retractable landing gear you

need to install the air tank now .Glue the tank into the

opening on the right side of the fuselage. Hot melt

glue or epoxy mixed with microballoons works well.

❏ 3. Glue the two 3/16" x 3/8" x 9" [4mm x 10mm x

230mm] hardwood servo tray mounting rails inside

the fuselage.The mounting rails must be located on

the top of the balsa rails already glued to the

fuselage sides and spaced as shown in the photo.

❏ 4. Test fit the radio and servo tray to the rails you

glued into the fuselage. Note that the trays fit between

the balsa longerons on the fuselage sides. Once you

are satisfied with the fit of the trays, drill a 1/16" [1.6mm]

hole through the servo and radio trays, drilling through

the servo mounting rails. Secure both trays to the rails

with eight #2 x 3/8" [10mm] sheet metal screws and #2

flat washers.

❏ 5. Install a 4-40 nut, 4-40 threaded clevis and

silicone clevis keeper onto the threaded end of a 4-40

x 36" [914mm] wire pushrod. From the back of the

fuselage slide the elevator wire into the pre-installed

plastic pushrod tube for the elevator. Attach the clevis

to the elevator control horn.

❏ 6. Using the hardware provided with the servos,

install the elevator servo into the servo tra y as sho wn.

Center the elevator servo. Align the elevator pushrod

wire with the servo arm.To get a good alignment with

the servo arm, adjust the pushrod wire by making

slight bends as needed to the wire. Install a 4-40

solder clevis onto the servo arm. Center the elevator

and then mark the pushrod wire and cut it to length.

Remove the clevis from the ser vo arm.

❏ 7. Solder the clevis to the wire. Slide a clevis

keeper over the clevis. Then, attach the clevis to the

servo arm.

❏ 8. Install the rudder servo following the same

procedure used with the elevator servo. For the

rudder use a double servo arm and install the clevis

one hole in from the outermost hole as shown.

- 18 -

❏ 9. Place 1/4" [6mm] foam under the receiver and

battery .Hold them to the tray with the plastic tie wraps.

Route the receiver antenna through the antenna tube,

securing the antenna at the back of the fuselage.

Note:If you are going to be utilizing the lighting system

on this airplane, you should hold off on installing the

receiver battery until you are instructed to install the

battery for the lights.The same plastic tie wraps used

for the receiver battery will be used to hold the battery

for the lighting system in place.

❏ 10. Position the tail cover in place on the bottom of

the fuselage.Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole in each corner

of the cover. Remove the cover and drill a 3/32"

[2.4mm] hole through each of the holes you drilled in

the cover. Secure the cover to the fuselage with four

#2 x 3/8" [10mm] screws and #2 flat washers.

INSTALL THE LANDING GEAR

The following instructions are for the installation of the

fixed landing gear. If you will be installing the

retractable landing gear, skip ahead to the instruction

for the retractable landing gear .Should you later decide

to change over to the retractable landing gear, the

mounting holes match so the gear is interchangeable.

Nose Gear

❏

1. Locate the components for the nose gear

assembly. Assemble it as shown, making sure to use

thread locker on all of the bolts.

❏ 2. Place the nose gear assembly onto the

mounting rail in the fuselage. You will find that the

nose gear wire touches the fuselage. Mark the spot

where the wire makes contact and make a clearance

hole in the fuselage with a high speed motor tool.

❏ 3. Place the nose gear onto the mounting rails.

Mark the hole locations. Then, drill a 7/64" [2.8mm]

hole on each of the marks. Install the nose gear

assembly with four #6 x 1/2" [13mm] machine scre ws,

#6 flat washers and #6 lock washers.

- 19 -

❏ 4. Cut the 39" [990mm] pull-pull wire in half. Slip a

crimp connector onto one of the wires. Wrap the wire

around each of the ball links on the nose gear steering.

Pull the wires tight and squeeze the crimp connector.

Insert the opposite end of the wire into the plastic tube.

❏ 5. Install a 2-56 nut and clevis onto two threaded

brass couplers.Install the clevis onto the outer holes of

the servo arm. Slide a crimp connector onto the wire.

Then, feed the wire through the hole in the side of the

brass coupler and back through the crimp connector.

Do this for both of the wires. Pull the wires, making

them equal in tension and making sure the rudder is

centered. Crimp the connectors against the wire.

❏ 6. Apply thread locker to two of the wheel collar set

screws. Insert the screws into two wheel collars.

Slide a wheel collar onto the nose gear wire,

tightening it against the inner most flat spot on the

nose gear wire. Install the nose wheel onto the axle

followed b y another wheel collar, tightening it against

the remaining flat spot on the wire.

Decision you must make…

Included in the kit is a fiberglass door that fits the

opening in the fuselage for the landing gear. If you

are planning to only fly this airplane with fixed

landing gear, then you might wish to proceed with

step 7. If you think you might be installing retracts at

some time in the future, you should skip step 7 and

move onto the main landing gear. The procedure

outlined in step 7 may be skipped with no effect on

the flying performance of the airplane.

❏ 7. You might wish to close off the nose gear

compartment to minimize drag to the aircraft. If so,

trim the door as shown and glue it permanently in

place on the fuselage.

Main Gear

Decision you must make…

Look closely at the bottom of the right wing. Adjacent

to the mounting rails for the landing gear you will find

the wheel opening for the retracts is covered with

Monokote. This covering can be left in place to

minimize drag. If you are interested in a more scale

like appearance, you might wish to permanently

mount the fiberglass gear doors as shown in the

following instructions. If there is a chance that you

might install retracts in the future, it is recommended

that you leave the covering in place and not install

the gear doors.If you choose to leave the co vering in

place skip ahead to step 3.

❏❏1. Cut the covering from the wheel wells. From

the 1/8" x 3/16" x 15-1/2" [3mm x 5mm x 390mm]

white balsa stick, cut four 3" [76mm] sticks. Glue two

into each wheel well to support the door when it is

glued in place. Position the sticks 1/8" [3mm] above

the bottom skin of the wing.

- 20 -

❏❏2. Glue the gear door to the sticks.

❏❏3. Install the

landing gear into the

landing gear mounting

block.Secure the gear

to the blocks with two

nylon landing gear

straps and four #4 x

1/2" [3mm x 13mm]

sheet metal screws.

❏❏4. Position the landing gear over the hardwood

rails. Be sure the axle is pointed towards the root rib

of the wing. Drill four 7/64" [2.8mm] holes through the

mounting holes and into the hardwood rails.Use four

#6 x 1/2" [13mm] sheet metal screws, #6 lock

washers and #6 flat washers to hold the gear in place.

❏❏5.Position two nylon humped landing gear straps

onto the landing gear wire and position the landing

gear door over the landing gear wire.Mark the location

of the holes for the landing gear straps onto the door.

On the marks, drill a 5/64" [2mm] hole through the

door. Secure the door to the landing gear straps with

four 2mm x 10mm machine screws and 2mm nuts.

When positioning the landing gear doors note that the

bottom of the door extends beyond the axle.

❏❏6. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole in each of the

corners of the landing gear plate as shown.

❏❏7. Place the landing gear plate in position over

the landing gear block. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole

through each of the four holes, drilling through the

hardwood plate. Mount the plate with four #2 x 3/8"

[9.5mm] sheet metal screws.

❏❏8.Install a set screw into two 3/16" [5mm] wheel

collars. Slide a wheel collar onto the axle followed by

the wheel and another wheel collar. Tighten the set

screw against the flat spots on the axle.

❏ 9.Repeat steps 1–8 for the opposite landing gear.

Skip ahead to Final Assembly.

- 21 -

RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR

The following instructions will take you through the

installation of the retractable landing gear.To maximize

the scale appearance of the airplane we have included

landing gear doors for the nose gear and the main gear .

These doors are intended for use with the installation of

the fixed landing gear. Though we are not providing

instructions for their use on retractable landing gear , the

more “scale-minded” pilot might wish to use them and

create their own door hinging and closure mechanisms.

Nose Gear

❏ 1. Drill two 1/8" [3mm] holes in the corner of the

nose gear wheel well for the air lines.

❏ 2. Install 18" [460mm] of air line onto each air inlet

on the landing gear.Feed each line into the holes you

drilled, pulling the lines into the radio compartment.

Place the nose gear onto the mounting rails.Mark the

hole locations and then drill a 7/64" [2.8mm] hole on

each of the marks. Install the nose gear assembly

with four #6 x 1/2" [13mm] machine screws, #6 flat

washers and #6 lock washers.

❏ 3.Install the nose wheel.Use two #8 flat washers on

each side of the wheel to keep it centered in the fork.

❏ 4. Cut the 39" [990mm] pull-pull wire in half. Slip a

crimp connector onto one of the wires.Wrap the wire

around each of the ball links on the nose gear

steering. Pull the wires tight and squeeze the crimp

connector.Insert the opposite end of the wire into the

plastic tube.

❏ 5. Install a 2-56 nut and clevis onto two threaded

brass couplers.Install the clevis onto the outer holes

of the servo arm. Slide a crimp connector onto the

wire.Then, feed the wire through the hole in the side

of the brass coupler and back through the crimp

connector. Do this for both of the wires. Pull the

wires, making them equal in tension and making

sure the rudder is centered. Crimp the connectors

against the wire.

- 22 -

Main Gear

❏❏1. Cut two airlines to a length of 24" [610mm].

They need to be fed from the wheel well to the center

of the wing where they will be pulled through the

wing with the string that was left in place during the

servo installation. The lines can be fed through the

openings for the servo leads as shown in the photos.

Once the line is installed between the wheel well and

the wing, tie the string to the two airlines and pull

them through the hole at the root of the wing.

❏❏2. Attach the airlines to the air inlets on the

landing gear.Place the landing gear onto the landing

gear rails. (

Note: When installing the landing gear,

the torque link assembly will be towards the back of

the wing.

) Drill a 7/64" [2.8mm] hole through the

landing gear plate for each of the mounting holes.

Insert and then remove a #6 x 1/2" [13mm] screw

into each hole.Apply a small amount of thin CA onto

the threads to harden them. After the glue has

hardened, mount the landing gear with a #6 x 1/2"

[13mm] screw, #6 flat washer and #6 lock washer.

❏❏3. Cut away the wood as shown.

❏❏4. Loosen the set screw for the landing gear.

Remove the landing gear leg.Then, slide one of the

landing gear door cover mounting brackets onto the

leg. Reinstall the leg and tighten the set screw.

❏❏5. Retract the landing gear.Then, position the

landing gear door so it is centered in the opening as

shown. Make a line on the door in line with the hole

in the landing gear.

- 23 -

❏❏6. Place a piece of masking tape onto the

mounting flange. Make a line on the masking tape in

line with the hole in the landing gear.

❏❏7. Position the landing gear door in the opening

in the bottom of the wing.When you are satisfied with

the position of the door, draw a line across the line

already drawn on the landing gear door.

❏❏8.At the intersection of the two lines drill a 1/16"

[1.6mm] pilot hole. Then drill through the pilot hole

with a 11/64" [4.4mm] drill.

❏❏9. Glue two #8 flat washers to the inside of the

landing gear door.

❏❏10. Locate a #8 x 1" [25mm] phillips head

machine screw. Use a high speed motor tool or

hacksaw and cut the bolt so the threaded length of

the bolt is 5/16" [7.9mm].

❏❏11. Locate the 4-40 x 12" [305mm] threaded

rod. File a point onto one end of the rod. Cut the

pointed end from the rod to a length of 1/4" [6mm].

❏❏12.Position the landing gear door cover mounting

bracket so that it is appro ximately 1/16" [1.6mm] abov e

the torque link assembly. Install the pointed rod into the

hole in the bracket as shown.Be sure the flat portion of

the bracket is aligned with the surface of the wing and

then tighten the threaded rod against the landing gear.

❏❏13. Place the landing gear door in position over

the wheel well. Install the 8-32 bolt that you cut

through the hole in the gear door, tightening it to the

landing gear. Adjust the door as needed to make

sure it is properly centered in the wheel well. Once

you are satisfied with the position, press firmly on the

landing gear door where the pointed rod is making

contact with the door.Press firmly enough to make a

small mark on the inside of the door.

- 24 -

❏❏14.Remove the gear door from the landing gear.

On the mark you made drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] pilot hole

through the mark. Drill though the pilot hole with a

7/64" drill bit.

❏❏15. Reinstall the landing gear door onto the

landing gear with the 8-32 bolt. Using a 4-40 x 1/4"

[13mm] socket head cap screw and a #4 washer,

secure the bottom of the door to the landing gear

door cover mounting bracket. Be sure to use thread

locker on both mounting screws.

❏❏16. Position the landing gear flange plate over

the landing gear mounting plate.Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm]

hole in each corner of the plate. Remove the flange

plate from the wing and drill a 3-32" [2.4mm] hole

through each of the holes you drilled in the flange

plate.Secure the flange plate to the wing with four #2

x 3/8" [10mm] screws and #2 flat washers.

❏ 17. Repeat steps 1-16 for the other landing gear.

Install the Retract Hardware

❏ 1.Glue the plywood air control valve plate to the

servo tray and glue the two plywood triangle shaped

gussets as shown.

❏ 2. Install a ball link ball to the control valve with a

.080 nut. Be sure to use a small amount of thread

locker when securing the nut. Insert the air control

valve into the plate.Secure the valve to the plate with

the nut.Be sure to use a small amount of thread locker

when securing the nut.

❏ 3. Install the retract servo into the servo opening

in the tray. Secure it the same way you did the other

servos. Install a nylon ball link onto the 2-56 x 6"

[152mm] threaded rod approximately 15 turns.Then

install the nylon ball link onto the ball. Center the air

control valve arm and center the servo.With a fine tip

marker, mark the wire where it aligns with the outer

hole of the servo arm. Make a 90 degree bend on the

mark. Cut the wire so the wire is 3/8" [10mm] in

length after the bend. Inser t the wire into the servo

arm and lock it in place with a nylon Faslink.

- 25 -

❏ 4. Decide on a location to mount the air fill valve.

We mounted ours on the bottom of the fuselage just

behind the trailing edge of the wing. This keeps the

valve somewhat hidden but it is not the most easily

accessible location.If you do not mind it being visible

you may wish to locate in on the fuselage in a place

more convenient for filling the air tank.

❏ 5. Install the air lines to the air tank, fill valve and

air control valve as shown in the instructions that

came with the air control kit. Install the connectors

that will connect the airlines from the main gear to

the airlines in the fuselage.

❏ 6. You now have to make a couple of decisions

regarding the wing.The wing is designed in two pieces

for easier transportation and storage. Those of you

that have an appropriately sized v ehicle and adequate

storage area may wish to leav e the wing assemb led in

one piece.If you will be leaving the wing together, join

the two air lines that will retract the landing gear with

a “T” fitting. Join the remaining two lines with another

“T” fitting. Install a 12" [310mm] length of air line onto

the “T” fitting and an air line quick connector on the

other end. If you will be taking your wings apart,

substitute a pair of quick connectors for the “T”fittings.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

Completing the Radio Installation

❏ 1. Connect the elevator and rudder servos to the

receiver. If you have installed retracts, connect the

retract servo to the receiver too.

❏ 2. You have a few options when connecting the

aileron, flap and throttle servos. Depending on the

number of channels you hav e available on your radio

system, you may wish to have each servo lead plug

into its own receiver slot. If you choose to do this

follow the instructions included with your radio

system. The option of using a “Y” connector is

probably the simplest method.Install a “Y” connector

between the two aileron connections coming out of

each wing and one between the flap connections in

each wing.If you intend to leave y our wings together,

secure the connectors together with heat shrink

tubing, tape or some other method. If you want the

ability to separate the two wings, secure the

connectors on one wing only.

❏ 3. For the throttle linkage you can use “Y”

connectors the same way done for the ailerons and

flaps. Again, if your radio has the ability to plug each

throttle servo into its own slot, you might want to

consider doing this. Even if you chose to use “Y”

connectors on the ailerons and flaps, you might want

to have the throttles on separate channels and mix

them with the radio.This would give you the option of

starting and operating each engine independently of

each other during the start up of the engines.

❏ 4. Install a 6" [152mm] ser vo extension into the

slots in your receiver for each of the aileron, flap and

throttle servo leads. This will make plugging the

connections in the wing to the receiver easier.

❏ 5. Install the radio switch and charge jack for your

particular brand of radio and plug it into the receiver.

We chose to mount ours on the bottom of the

fuselage. For easier access you might want to

consider mounting it to the side of the fuselage.

Connect the Lighting System

The lighting system is a nice scale option but is not

required in order to fly the airplane. If you choose not

to use the lights you can skip this section of the

manual.

Do not operate the lighting system from

the receiver battery pack!

The lighting system will

require the use of a separate 500 mAh battery pack

and a switch harness for installation.

- 26 -

❏ 1. You may wish to balance your airplane before

deciding on the final location of the battery for the lighting

system, but most likely the battery placement will not be

crucial for purposes of balancing the airplane.Mount the

battery for the lighting system on the opposite side of the

battery/receiver tray from the battery for the radio

system. Use the plastic tie wraps to hold them in place.

❏ 2. Install a switch and charge jack on the fuselage

the same way done for the receiver.

❏ 3. Be sure the main landing light from the front of

the fuselage is plugged into the pre-installed lighting

harness. Plug the wires from the switch into the

wiring harness and the batter y pack.

❏ 4. Once everything in the fuselage is connected

properly, use tie wraps or tape to bundle the excess

wire together to help clean up the entire installation.

When doing this be sure that you leave the male

connector for the lights in the wing accessible.

❏ 5.Install a “Y”harness to the wires from the left and

right wing tip light. When you assemble the airplane

for flight, plug the lights from the wing into the

connector on the lighting harness.

Apply the Decals

1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the

decals from the sheet.

2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily

fingerprints and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small

bucket with a mixture of liquid dish soap and warm

water–about one teaspoon of soap per gallon of water .

Submerse the decal in the soap and water and peel off

the paper backing.Note: Even though the decals have

a “sticky-back” and are not the water transfer type,

submersing them in soap and water allows accurate

positioning and reduces air bubbles underneath.

3. Position the decal on the model where desired.

Holding the decal down, use a paper towel to wipe

most of the water away.

4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to

squeegee remaining water from under the decal.

Apply the rest of the decals the same way.

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY

Check the Control Directions

❏ 1.Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center

the trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from

the servos and reposition them so they are centered.

Reinstall the screws that hold on the servo arms.

❏ 2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check

all the control surfaces to see if they are centered.If

necessary, adjust the clevises on the pushrods to

center the control surfaces.

❏ 3. Make cer tain that the control surfaces and the

carburetor respond in the correct direction as shown

in the diagram. If any of the controls respond in the

wrong direction, use the servo reversing in the

transmitter to reverse the servos connected to those

controls. Be certain the control surfaces have

remained centered. Adjust if necessar y.

- 27 -

Set the Control Throws

Use a Great Planes AccuThrow

™

(or a ruler) to

accurately measure and set the control throw of each

control surface as indicated in the chart that follows.If

your radio does not have dual rates, we recommend

setting the throws at the high rate setting. NOTE: The

throws are measured at the widest part of the

elevators, rudder and ailerons.

Balance the Model (C.G.)

At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly

condition with all of the systems in place including

the engines, landing gear and the radio system.

❏ 1. Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8" [3mm]-wide tape to

accurately mark the C.G. on the top of the wing on

both sides of the fuselage.The C.G. is located 3-7/16"

[87mm] back from the leading edge of the wing at the

fuselage sides.

❏ 2.With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts

of the model installed (ready to fly) and an empty fuel

tank, place the model upsidedown on a Great Planes

CG Machine

™

, or lift it upside down at the balance

point you marked.

❏ 3.If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy”and the

battery pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward

or weight must be added to the nose to balance.If the

nose drops, the model is “nose heavy”and the battery

pack and/or receiver must be shifted aft or weight

must be added to the tail to balance. If possible,

relocate the battery pack or eliminate any additional

ballast required. Use Great Planes (GPMQ4485)

“stick on” lead. A good place to add stick-on nose

weight is in the nose of the fuselage.Begin by placing

incrementally increasing amounts of weight on the

inside of the fuse until the model balances. Once you

have determined the amount of weight required, it

can be permanently attached. If required, tail weight

may be added inside the rear of the fuselage.

❏ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add

any weight, recheck the C.G. after the weight has

been installed.

Balance the Model Laterally

❏ 1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you

lift the model at the tip of the nose and the tail. Do

this several times.

❏ 2.If one wing always drops when you lift the model,

it means that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by

adding weight to the other wing tip.An airplane that

has been laterally balanced will track better in

loops and other maneuvers.

This is where your model should balance for the first

flights.Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting

the C.G. up to 5/16" [8mm] forward or 5/16" [8mm]

back to change the flying characteristics.Moving the

C.G. forward may improve the smoothness and

stability, but the model may then require more speed

for takeoff and make it more difficult to slow for

landing. Moving the C.G. aft makes the model more

maneuverable , but could also cause it to become too

difficult to control. In any case, start at the

recommended balance point and do not at any

time balance the model outside the specified range.

More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance

point) can have the greatesteffect on how a model

flies, and may determine whether or not your first

flight will be successful.If you value this model and

wish to enjoy it for many flights, DO NOT

OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE. A

model that is not properly balanced will be

unstable and possibly unflyable.

IMPORTANT:The Cessna 310 has been extensively

flown and tested to arrive at the throws at which it flies

best. Flying your model at these throws will provide

you with the greatest chance for successful first flights .

If, after you have become accustomed to the way the

Cessna 310 flies, you would like to change the thro ws

to suit your taste, that is fine. However, too much

control throw could make the model difficult to control,

so remember, “more is not always better.”

These are the recommended control surface throws:

High Rate Low Rate

ELEVATOR 1" up 3/4" up

1" down 3/4" down

[25mm] [19mm]

RUDDER 1-1/2" right 1" right

1-1/2" left 1" left

[38mm] [25mm]

AILERONS: 3/4" up 1/2" up

3/4" down 1/2" down

[19mm] [19mm]

FLAPS: 1-5/8" [40mm] down

- 28 -

3-7/16" [87mm]

Adjusting the Retractable Landing Gear

After connecting the air lines as instructed in the

instructions that came with the Air Control kit, fill the

air tank to 100psi and try cycling the landing gear.

The landing gear should cycle up and down freely. If

they do not, here are some troubleshooting tips:

❏ 1. The gear does not move up or down: Check to

be sure the control screws on the variable rate valve

are open.

❏ 2. The landing gear moves up and down but is

not smooth:When mounting the landing gear onto the

landing gear rails it is important that the rails are

exactly parallel to one another. If not, when you tighten

the screws the mounting flange of the gear mechanism

can twist slightly.Try loosening the mounting screws a

little and try cycling the landing gear again. If the gear

now works, re-tighten the screws one at a time, cycling

the gear after each screw is tightened.When you find

out which screw is pulling down too hard on the

mounting flange, slip a shim under the mounting flange

and then re-tighten the screw.

❏ 3. One of the landing gear goes up while the

other goes down: Most likely you have crossed one of

the air lines.

❏ 4. The main landing gear seems to lock in the

“gear up”position: The screw that you cut to length

to hold the bottom of the landing gear door to the

strut can extend too far into the thread, causing the

gear to bind. Slightly loosen that screw and try

cycling the gear again.If it now works smoothly grind

a little off the end of the bolt.

PREFLIGHT

Identify Y our Model

No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club

site or if you fly somewhere on your own, you should

always have your name, address, telephone number

and AMA number on or inside your model. It is

required at all AMA R/C club flying sites and AMA

sanctioned flying events. Fill out the identification tag

on page 35 and place it on or inside your model.

Charge the Batteries

Follow the battery charging instructions that came with

your radio control system to charge the batteries.You

should always charge your transmitter and receiver

batteries the night before you go flying, and at other

times as recommended by the radio manufacturer.

Balance Propellers

Carefully balance your propellers and spare propellers

before you fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single

most significant cause of vibration that can damage

your model.Not only will engine mounting screws and

bolts loosen, possibly with disastrous effect, but

vibration may also damage your radio receiver and

battery. Vibration can also cause your fuel to foam,

which will, in turn, cause your engine to run hot or quit.

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer

(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great

Planes Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our

flight box.

Ground Check

If the engine is new, follow the engine

manufacturer’s instructions to break-in the

engine. After break-in, confir m that the engine idles

reliably, transitions smoothly and rapidly to full power

and maintains full power–indefinitely. After you run

the engine on the model, inspect the model closely

to make sure all screws remained tight, the hinges

are secure, the prop is secure and all pushrods and

connectors are secure.

CAUTION: Unless the instr uctions that came with

your radio system state differently, the initial

charge on new transmitter and receiver batteries

should be done for 15 hours using the slow-

charger that came with the radio system. This

will “condition” the batteries so that the next

charge may be done using the fast-charger of y our

choice. If the initial charge is done with a fast-

charger, the batteries may not reach their full

capacity and you may be flying with batteries that

are only partially charged.

- 29 -

Range Check

Ground check the operational range of your radio

before the first flight of the day. With the transmitter

antenna collapsed and the receiver and transmitter

on, you should be able to walk at least 100 feet away

from the model and still have control. Have an

assistant stand by your model and, while you w ork the

controls, tell you what the control surfaces are doing.

Repeat this test with the engines running at various

speeds with an assistant holding the model, using

hand signals to show you what is happening. If the

control surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly!

Find and correct the problem first.Look for loose servo

connections or broken wires, corroded wires on old

servo connectors, poor solder joints in your battery

pack or a defectiv e cell, or a damaged receiver crystal

from a previous crash.

ENGINE RUN IN INSTRUCTIONS

Because of the importance for both engines to run

through the entire flight we recommend that you

follow these engine pre-flight instructions.

1. Before attempting to fly the airplane, remove the

nacelles and run a full tank of fuel through one

engine. Put a second tank of fuel through the same

engine, running it at different speeds from idle to full

throttle. It is impor tant that the engine has a solid,

reliable idle and that it transitions from idle to mid

range and then full throttle without any signs of the

engine quitting. Adjust the low speed needle valve to

achieve a good idle and low end transition. Then

adjust the high speed needle valve. Once you are

confident of the engine performance, repeat the

procedure for the other engine.

2.Once you are satisfied with both engines, carefully

start both of them. When starting a twin engine

airplane be careful not to get anything or any part of

you in the prop of the running engine! With both

engines running, let them idle for a few seconds.

Check the RPM of each engine. They should be

close but not necessarily exactly the same.Advance

the throttle to full. The engines should transition

similarly .Once at full throttle the engines should have

an RPM very close to one another.Check this with a

tachometer.If you do not have a tachometer listen to

the sound of the engines. When they are running

close to the same RPM they will sound the same.

Run the two engines together for the remainder of

the tank, running them throughout the engine range.

3. Reinstall the nacelles and run the engines. A fully

cowled engine may run at a higher temperature than

an un-cowled engine.Adjust the needle valves so the

engines run as well with the nacelles as they did

when the nacelles were off. Check the RPM

measurements, making sure the engines are

synchronized with each other. Once you have the

engines adjusted to their maximum RPM, richen the

engines, allowing the engines to run 150–200 RPM

below the maximum achievable RPM. Running the

engine slightly rich will help allow the engines to run

slightly cooler and minimize chances of the engines

overheating. When making your final engine

adjustments it is most important that the engines are

synchronized at full throttle.At lower RPM it is not as

crucial that they are in synch. If, when your engines

are at full throttle one engine has a higher RPM than

another, richen the stronger engine until it is in synch

with the weaker engine.

4.It has been our experience that the .46 AX engines

will run approximately 10 minutes with the supplied

fuel tanks. We recommend that you run the engines

on the ground at 3/4 to full throttle and time them to

see how long you can expect them to run while in the

air. Use of a timer in flight will assure that you don’t

lose track of time.

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

• Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, a wa y from high

heat, sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable.

Do not smoke near the engine or fuel; and

remember that engine exhaust gives off a great

deal of deadly carbon monoxide.Therefore do not

run the engine in a closed room or garage.

• Get help from an experienced pilot when learning

to operate engines.

• Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.

• Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or

sand; the propeller may throw such material in

your face or eyes.

• Keep your face and body as well as all spectators

away from the plane of rotation of the propeller as

you start and run the engine.

• Keep these items away from the prop: loose

clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or

loose objects such as pencils or screwdrivers that

may fall out of shirt or jacket pockets into the prop.

• Use a “chicken stick” or electric star ter to star t the

engine.Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller.

Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is

secure so that it will not pop off or otherwise get

into the running propeller.

• Make all engine adjustments from behind the

rotating propeller.

• The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right

after operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good

condition so fuel will not leak onto a hot engine,

causing a fire.

• To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by

closing off the fuel line or following the engine

manufacturer’s recommendations. Do not use

hands, fingers or any other body part to try to stop

the engine.Do not throw anything into the propeller

of a running engine.

Failure to follow these safety precautions may

result in severe injury to yourself and others.

- 30 -

AMA SAFETY CODE (EXCERPTS)

Read and abide by the following excerpts from the

Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code.For the

complete Safety Code refer to Model Aviation

magazine, the AMA web site or the Code that came

with your AMA license.

General

1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned

events, air shows, or model flying demonstrations

until it has been proven to be airworthy by having

been previously, successfully flight tested.

2) I will not fly my model aircraft higher than

approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport

without notifying the airport operator. I will give

right-of-way and av oid flying in the proximity of full-

scale aircraft.Where necessary, an observer shall

be utilized to supervise flying to avoid having

models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules

for the flying site I use, and I will not willfully and

deliberately fly my models in a careless, reckless

and/or dangerous manner.

5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my

name and address or AMA number, on or in the

model. Note:This does not apply to models while

being flown indoors.

7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any

device that explodes , b urns, or propels a projectile

of any kind).

Radio Control

1) I will have completed a successful radio

equipment ground check before the first flight of a

new or repaired model.

2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of

spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless

assisted by an experienced helper.

3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must

be established in front of which all flying takes

place with the other side for spectators. Only

personnel involved with flying the aircraft are

allowed at or in the front of the flight line.Intentional

flying behind the flight line is prohibited.

4) I will operate my model using only radio control

frequencies currently allowed by the Federal

Communications Commission.

5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three

miles of any pre-existing flying site except in

accordance with the frequency sharing agreement

listed [in the complete AMA Safety Code].

9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person

touch a powered model in flight; nor should any part

of the model other than the landing gear, intentionally

touch the ground, except while landing.

IMAA SAFETY CODE (EXCERPTS)

Since the Cessna 310 qualifies as a “giant scale”

model and is therefore eligible to fly in IMAA

events, we’ve printed excerpts from the IMAA

Safety Code which follows.

What is Giant Scale?

The concept of large or giant-scale is generally

considered to apply to radio controlled model aircraft

with minimum wingspans of 80 inches for monoplanes

and 60 inches for multi-wing aircraft.Quarter-scale or

larger replicas of person-carrying aircraft with proper

documentation (minimum 3-view drawing) which do

not fit the size requirements will also be permitted.

Section 1.0: SAFETY STANDARD

1.1 Adherence to Code: The purpose of this Safety

Code is to provide a structure whereby all

participants, including spectators, will be aware of

the inherent dangers in the operation of radio

controlled aircraft.This code is meant to serve as a

minimum guideline to all participants. It is

understood that the ultimate responsibility for the

safety of any aircraft lies with the owner(s), pilot(s)

and spectator(s) involved in any event. It is the

responsibility of all participants to exercise caution

when operating, or observing the operation of all

radio controlled aircraft. The pilot/owner of an

aircraft will not be dissuaded from taking whatever

steps they deem necessary, in addition to this

code, to insure that their aircraft is safe.

1.2 The most current AMA Safety Code in effect is to

be observed.

Section 3.0: SAFETY REVIEW

3.4 Flight Testing: All aircraft are to have been flight

tested and flight trimmed with a minimum of six

(6) flights before the model is allowed to fly at an

IMAA Sanctioned event.

3.5 Proof of Flight: The completing and signing of the

Declaration section of the Safety Re view f orm (see

Section 3.2) by the pilot (or owner) shall

document, as fact, that the noted aircraft has been

successfully flight tested and proven airworthy

prior to the IMAA event.

Section 4.0: SPOTTER/HELPER

4.1 Spotter/Helper Definition: An assistant to aid the

pilot during start-up, and taxing onto the runway.

The spotter/helper will assist the pilot in completing

a safe flight.

4.2 Each pilot is required to have a spotter/helper at all

IMAA sanctioned events. The event Safety

Committee should be prepared to assist those

pilots who do not have a spotter/helper to make

sure that every registered pilot has the opportunity

to fly at a sanctioned event.

- 31 -

Section 5.0: EMERGENCY ENGINE SHUT OFF

(Kill Switch)

5.1 Magneto spark ignition engines must have a coil-

grounding switch on the aircraft to stop the engine.

This will also prevent accidental starting of the

engine.This switch shall be readily available to both

pilot and spotter/helper.This switch is to be oper ated

manually and without the use of the Radio System.

5.2 Engines with battery powered ignition systems

must have a switch to turn off the power from the

battery pack to disable the engine from firing.This

will also prevent accidental starting of the engine.

This switch shall be readily available to both pilot

and spotter/helper. This switch shall be operated

manually and without the use of the Radio System.

5.3 There must also be a means to stop the engine from

the transmitter. The most common method is to

completely close the carburetor throat using throttle

trim. However, other methods are acceptable. This

requirement applies to all glow/gas ignition engines

regardless of size.

Section 6.0: RADIO REQUIREMENTS

6.1 All transmitters must be FCC type certified.

6.2 FCC Technician or higher-class license required

for 6 meter band operation only.

ADDITIONAL IMAA GENERAL

RECOMMENDATIONS

The following recommendations are included in the

Safety Code not to police such items, but rather to

offer basic suggestions for enhanced safety. It is

expected that IMAA members will av ail themselves of

technological advances as such become available, to

promote the safety of all aircraft and participants.

• Servos need to be of a rating capable to handle the

loads that the control surfaces impose upon the

servos. Standard servos are not recommended for

control surfaces.Serv os should be rated hea vy-duty

ounces of torque. For flight critical control functions

a minimum of 45 inch/ounces of torque should be

considered. This should be considered a minimum

for smaller aircraft and higher torque servos are

strongly encouraged for larger aircraft. The use of

one servo for each aileron and one for each

stabilizer half is strongly recommended.Use of dual

servos is also recommended on larger aircraft.

• On board batteries should be, at a minimum, 1000

mAh up to 20 lbs., 1200 mAh to 30 lbs., 1800 mAh

to 40 lbs., and 2000 mAh over 40 lbs. flying weight.

The number and size of servos, size and loads on

control surfaces, and added features should be

considered as an increase to these minimums.

Batteries should be able to sustain power to the

onboard radio components for a minimum of one

hour total flying time before recharging.

• Dependable, redundant and f ail saf e battery systems

are recommended.

• The use of anti-glitch devices for long leads

is recommended.

• There is no maximum engine displacement limit, as it

is the position of this body that an under powered

aircraft presents a greater danger than an over

powered aircraft. However, the selections of engine

size relative to airframe strength and power loading

mandates good discretionary judgment by the

designer and builder. Current AMA maximums for

engine displacement are 6.0 cu.in.for two stroke and

9.6 cu. in. for four stroke engines. These maximums

apply only to AMA Sanction competition events such

as 511, 512, 515 and 520.All non competition events

should be sanctioned as Class C events, in which

these engine size maximums do not apply.

• Generally, it is recommended that no attempt should

be made to fly a radio controlled model aircraft with

a gasoline engine in which the model aircraft weight

would exceed 12 pounds per cubic inch of engine

displacement (under powered), or be less than 5

pounds per cubic inch of engine displacement

(overpowered).Example: Using a 3 cu. in. engine, a

model would likely be under powered at an aircraft

weight greater than 36 pounds. With the same

engine, an aircraft weighing less than 15 pounds

would likely be over powered.

• Servo arms and control horns should be rated heavy-

duty. Glass filled servo arms and control horns are

highly recommended.

• Control surface linkages are listed in order

of preference:

1. Cable system (pull pull). A tiller bar is highly

recommended along with necessary bracing.

2.Arrow-shaft, fiberglass or aluminum, 1/4" or 5/16"

OD. Bracing every six (6) to ten (10) inches is

highly recommended.

3. Tube in tube (Nyrod). Bracing every few inches

is highly recommended. Inner tube should be

totally enclosed in outer tube.

4. Hardwood dowel, 3/8" OD. Bracing every six

(6) to ten (10) inches is highly recommended.

• Hinges should be rated heavy-duty and manufactured

primarily for use in giant-sized aircraft. Homemade

and original design hinges are acceptable if

determined to be adequate for the intended use.

• Clevis (steel, excluding heavy-duty ball links) and

attachment hardware should be heavy-duty 4-40

thread-and-rod type.2-56 thread size rod is acceptable

for some applications (e.g.throttle).Clevises must have

lock nuts and sleeve (fuel tubing) or spring keepers.

• Propeller tips should be painted or colored in a visible

and contrasting manner to increase the visibility of the

propeller tip arc.

- 32 -

CHECK LIST

❏ 1. Fuelproof all areas exposed to fuel or exhaust

residue such as the cowl ring, cowl mounting

blocks, wing saddle area, etc.

❏ 2. Check the C.G.according to the measurements

provided in the manual.

❏ 3. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely

mounted in the fuse. Simply stuffing them into

place with foam rubber is not sufficient.

❏ 4. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it

has a strain relief inside the fuselage to keep

tension off the solder joint inside the receiver.

❏ 5. Balance your model

laterally

as explained in

the instructions.

❏ 6. Use threadlocking compound to secure critical

fasteners such as the set screws that hold the

wheel axles to the struts, screws that hold the

carburetor arm (if applicable), screw-lock

pushrod connectors, etc.

❏ 7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will

turn freely.

❏ 8. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.

❏ 9. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA

where appropriate (servo mounting screws,

cowl mounting screws, etc.).

❏ 10.Confir m that all controls operate in the correct

direction and the throws are set up according

to the manual.

❏ 11. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all

the clevises and that all servo arms are

secured to the servos with the screws included

with your radio.

❏ 12.Secure connections between ser vo wires and

Y-connectors or servo extensions, and the

connection between your battery pack and the

on/off switch with vinyl tape, heat shrink tubing

or special clips suitable for that purpose.

❏ 13.Make sure any servo extension cords you may

have used do not interfere with other systems

(servo arms, pushrods, etc.).

❏ 14.Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffler

with high temp RTV silicone, thread locking

compound or J.B.Weld.

❏ 15. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and

are not kinked.

❏ 16. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).

❏ 17.Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.

❏ 18.Place your name, address, AMA number and

telephone number on or inside your model.

❏ 19.Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary)

and make sure it is fully charged.

❏ 20. If you wish to photograph your model, do so

before your first flight.

❏ 21. Range check your radio when you get to the

flying field.

FLYING

The Cessna 310 is a great-flying model that flies

smoothly and predictably. The Cessna 310 does not,

howev er, possess the self-recovery characteristics of

a primary R/C trainer and should be flown only by

experienced R/C pilots.

CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO

ALL

R/C

AIRPLANES): If, while flying, you notice an alarming

or unusual sound such as a low-pitched “buzz,” this

may indicate control surface flutter. Flutter occurs

when a control surface (such as an aileron or elev ator)

or a flying surface (such as a wing or stab) rapidly

vibrates up and down (thus causing the noise). In

extreme cases, if not detected immediately, flutter can

actually cause the control surface to detach or the

flying surface to fail, thus causing loss of control

followed by an impending crash.The best thing to do

when flutter is detected is to slow the model

immediatelyby reducing power , then land as soon as

safely possible.Identify which surface fluttered (so the

problem may be resolved) by checking all the servo

grommets for deterioration or signs of vibration.Make

certain all pushrod linkages are secure and free of

play. If it fluttered once, under similar circumstances it

will probably flutter again unless the problem is fixed.

Some things which can cause flutter are; Excessive

hinge gap; Not mounting control horns solidly; P oor fit

of clevis pin in horn; Side-play of wire pushrods

caused by large bends; Excessive free play in servo

gears; Insecure servo mounting;and one of the most

prevalent causes of flutter; Flying an over-powered

model at excessive speeds.

During the last few moments of preparation your

mind may be elsewhere anticipating the e xcitement

of the first flight. Because of this, you may be more

likely to overlook certain checks and procedures

that should be performed before the model is flown.

To help avoid this, a check list is provided to make

sure these important areas are not overlooked.

Many are covered in the instruction manual, so

where appropriate, refer to the manual f or complete

instructions. Be sure to check the items off as they

are completed.

- 33 -

Takeoff

Before you get ready to takeoff, see how the model

handles on the ground by doing a few practice runs

at low speeds on the runway. If necessary, adjust

the nose wheel so the model will roll straight down

the runway. If you need to calm your nerves before

the maiden flight, shut the engines down and bring

the model back into the pits.If you have been running

the engines for any extended period of time prior to

takeoff, top off the fuel, and then check all fasteners

and control linkages for peace of mind.

If you are taking off from an asphalt runway there is no

need to use flaps for takeoff. If you are taking off from

grass you will not need to use flaps as long as you

allow the plane to gain adequate ground speed.If you

have a short grass field, if it has particularly thick grass

or rough conditions you might consider applying 1/2"

[13mm] to 3/4" [19mm] of flap.When the plane breaks

ground be sure to maintain a shallow climb out and

retract the flaps as the plane begins to pick up speed.

When you’re ready, remember to takeoff into the wind

and point the model straight down the runway. As the

model gains speed begin adding elevator to achieve a

smooth take-off.Gain as much speed as your runway

and flying site will practically allow before gently

applying up elevator, lifting the model into the air. At

this moment it is likely that you will need to apply more

right rudder to counteract engine torque. Be smooth

on the elevator stic k, allowing the model to establish a

gentle climb to a safe altitude before turning into the

traffic pattern.

Flight

For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffic,

it is a good idea to have an assistant on the flight line

with you.Tell him to remind you to throttle back once

the plane gets to a comfortable altitude. While full

throttle is usually desirable for takeoff, this model

flies more smoothly at reduced speeds.

Take it easy for the first few flights, gradually getting

acquainted with it as you gain confidence.Adjust the

trims to maintain straight and level flight. After flying

around for a while, and while still at a safe altitude

with plenty of fuel, practice slow flight and execute

practice landing approaches utilizing the flaps. You

will find that the plane may balloon slightly when the

flaps are deployed.A small amount of down elevator

will minimize this and as the plane slows the

ballooning will stop. You may wish to mix in 1 to 2

degrees of down elevator to the flaps but it is best to

work on the amount of mix after the first flight.

Continue to fly around, ex ecuting various maneuvers

and making mental notes (or having your assistant

write them down) of what trim or C.G. changes may

be required to fine tune the model so it flies the way

you like. Mind your fuel level, use this first flight to

become familiar with your model before landing.

Landing

To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle while

on the downwind leg and lower the flaps.When the

flaps are deployed you will find that the plane may

balloon slightly. A small amount of down elevator will

minimize this and as the plane slows the ballooning

will stop. You may wish to mix in 1 to 2 degrees of

down elev ator to the flaps but it is best to w ork on the

amount of mix after the first flight. Allow the nose of

the model to pitch downward to gradually bleed off

altitude. Continue to lose altitude, but maintain

airspeed by keeping the nose down as you turn onto

the crosswind leg. Make your final turn toward the

runway (into the wind) keeping the nose down to

maintain airspeed and control. Level the attitude

when the model reaches the runway threshold,

modulating the throttle as necessary to maintain your

glide path and airspeed. If you are going to

overshoot, smoothly advance the throttle (always

ready on the right rudder to counteract torque) and

climb out to make another attempt. When you’re

ready to make your landing flare and the model is a

foot or so off the deck, smoothly increase up ele vator

until it gently touches down.

Engine Out Procedure

One of the primary concerns everybody has when

thinking about flying a twin-engine airplane is “what if

an engine quits?” While this is never a desirable

situation, through our previous flying experience with

other twin-engine models and our flight testing and

development with this Cessna 310, we have

developed a model that will not suddenly react

unexpectedly if an engine quits and can be controlled

well enough to get her safely back to the ground.

Thankfully, during straight-and-level flight, if an

engine does quit the plane will not do anything

sudden or unexpected.The first thing you must do is

recognize that an engine has quit and then

determine which engine it is. When an engine does

quit the plane will gradually yaw towards the dead

engine and will soon begin to lose altitude. At this

point you must decide if you are going to try and land

on one engine or kill the other engine and attempt a

dead-stick landing.We have flown left and right hand

turns on a single engine, turning into both the dead

engine as well as the engine that is running. Both

situations will require the use of the ailerons and the

rudder. The key to making the turns on a single

engine is to steer the plane with the rudder and use

the ailerons to keep the wings level.Turning with just

the ailerons can result in a stall or a spin depending

on which engine you turn into.

Turning towards the running engine will result in a tight

turn so it is important to tr y and make a flat, gradual

turn, making the turn with rudder input and keeping

the wings level using the ailerons. When turning into

the running engine the rudder and ailerons will be very

responsive so gradually input the controls.

When making a turn into the dead engine the turn

will be much wider. Begin the turn with the rudders

and use the ailerons to make any needed correction

to keep the wings level.

- 34 -

In either situation it is important to keep the airspeed

up.With one engine you will have power enough to fly

and maintain altitude for a while before slo wly begin to

lose altitude.If you lose too much airspeed you will not

be able to recover the airspeed with just the engine.

You will have to point the nose down towards the

ground to recover airspeed.Of course if you are close

to the ground you will not have this option so flat large

turns are the key to success. Once you have

determined which engine is running and which engine

is dead, start planning your landing approach. Once

you have guided the plane bac k to the field and are on

the final leg, cut the engine power just the same as

you would if executing a normal approach. If you use

the flaps on landing, do not deploy the flaps until you

are over the runway. Otherwise they may slow the

plane too much, resulting in a stall. Flaps are not

required for a single-engine landing.

If you do not feel y ou ha v e the proficiency to fly using

the rudder and ailerons or are afraid you could

become confused executing the procedures just

stated, it would be safer to take the second approach

which is simply to cut the throttle thus “killing” the

running engine and treating the model as though it

was a single-engine aircraft in a dead-stick landing.

Whether you land on a single engine or dead-stick you

do not have the power to go around for a second

landing approach once you are on final. On a single

engine approach, if you find you are not aligned

properly with the runway and if you have adequate

altitude, you can most likely fly around for a second

approach.Once you are set up on final you will not have

adequate power to climb out and go around again. To

put it succinctly, if an engine quits, set up for a landing

as quickly as you can. Make smooth, coordinated

control adjustments and don’t panic.After you have had

your first single engine landing, you should find that they

are not as bad as you might have thought.

One final note about flying your model.Have a goal or

flight plan in mind for ev ery flight.This can be learning

a new maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) you

already know, or learning how the model behaves in

certain conditions (such as on high or low rates). As

part of out test flying we set up a condition on the

radio that would allow control of the throttles

independently .If you have this ability with y our system

you might want to consider setting your radio up this

way. Once the plane is at altitude you can reduce the

throttle to idle on one side or the other to get a feel for

what the engine out performance is like. Of course

using this set up you can easily power the engine

back up if you should get in trouble while flying on one

engine.This will improve your skills and increase the

chances that you will not surprise yourself by

impulsively attempting a maneuver and suddenly

finding that you’ve run out of time, altitude or

airspeed. A flight plan greatly reduces the chances of

crashing your model just because of poor planning

and impulsive moves. Remember to think.

Have a ball!

But always stay in control and fly in a safe manner.

GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!

- 35 -

Unveiled in 1932, Beech Aircraft Corporation's Staggerwing was instantly distinguished by its forward-

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complement rivets and panel lines molded into the fiberglass fuselage. Elevator and rudder linkages mount

internally to preserve the scale profile.Add a 1.60-size 2- or 4-stroke engine and you'll have plenty of muscle

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O.S.

®

.50 SX

OSMG0550

There's nothing wrong with wanting more out of aerobatics, and the

.50 SX Ring delivers it.It punches out 10% more power than a .46, yet

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included: dual bearings, an #873 muffler and 2-year warranty.

Wingspan: 72.5 in (1840mm)

Wing Area: 1525 sq in (97.6dm²)

Weight: 17-19 lb (7.7-8.6kg)

Wing Loading: 26-28 oz/sq ft (80-90g/dm²)

Fuselage Length: 62.5 in (1590mm)

Engine Required: 2-stroke or 4-stroke 1.60 cu in (25cc) glow engine

Radio Required: 6-channel w/7 servos (minimum) or 8-9 channel w/9

servos (with retracts), (2) 6" (152mm) flap extensions, (2) 12" (305mm)

aileron extensions, (2) Y connectors, 1000+ mAh battery, propeller

Displacement: 0.499 cu in (8.18cc)

Bore: 0.866 in (22mm)

Stroke: 0.847 in (21.5mm)

Output: 1.8 bhp @ 17,000 rpm

Practical rpm range: 2000-20,000

Weight: 13.8 oz (391.2g)

Top Flite

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Gold Edition

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Beechcraft Staggerwing

TOPA0905

Enjoy 9-channel PCM and 8-channel FM capacity, plus easy

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For the ultimate in convenience, choose 9C Super

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