Top Flite A0906 INSTRUCTION BOOK

®

®

™

Wingspan: 81 in [2060mm]
Wing Area: 898 sq in [57.9 dm2]
Weight: 11.5 – 12.5 lb [5220 – 5670g]

WARRANTY.....Top Flite

®

Models guarantees this kit to be free

from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does
not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite’s
liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right to
change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no
liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of
the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user
accepts all resulting liability.

Wing Loading: 30 – 32 oz/ft2 [92 – 98g/dm2]
Length: 64 in [1630mm]
Radio: 5+ channel with 6 – 7 servos

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product,
the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place
of purchase.

To make a warranty claim send the defective part or
item to Hobby Services at the address:

Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as
possible (daytime telephone number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the
problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package the problem will
be evaluated as quickly as possible.

Engine: .60 – .91 cu in [10 – 15cc] two-stroke,

.91 – 1.20 cu in [15 – 20cc] four-stroke,

Motor: RimFire™ 1.20 (50-65-450kV) Out-Runner Motor

Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr., Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822 USA

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

Top Flite Models Champaign, IL Telephone [phone], Ext. 5 airsupport@top-flite.com

Entire Contents © Copyright 2009 TOPA0906MNL V1.0

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION ..........................2

AMA ....................................2

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ...................2

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE ...............3

Building Stand ...........................3

Radio Equipment.........................3

Engine Recommendations .................3

Scale Competition ........................4

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED .............4

Hardware & Accessories...................4

Adhesives & Building Supplies ..............4

Optional Supplies & Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES..............5

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS...........5

Replacement Parts List ....................5

KIT INSPECTION..........................5

Kit Contents.............................7

PREPARATIONS ..........................7

ASSEMBLE THE WING .....................7

Hinge the Ailerons And Flaps ...............7

Install the Aileron Servo & Linkage ...........9

Install the Flap Servo & Linkage ............11

Finish the Wing .........................12

INSTALL THE TAIL, LANDING GEAR & SERVOS

Install the Horizontal Stabilizer,

Elevators & Rudder ....................13

Install the Landing Gear ..................15

Install the Tail Servos & Pushrods ...........16

INSTALL THE POWER SYSTEM.............19

Glow Engine Installation ..................19

Brushless Motor Installation ...............22

FINISH THE MODEL ......................22

Install the Receiver & Batteries .............22

Install the Cowl .........................24

Install the Cockpit Windows................25

Install the Cockpit Kit.....................26

Install the Spinner & Propeller..............29

Final Touches ..........................29

Apply the Decals ........................30

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY ...........30

Install & Connect the Motor Battery .........30

Check the Control Directions...............31

Set the Control Throws ...................31

...13

Balance the Model (C.G.) .................32

Balance the Model Laterally ...............33

PREFLIGHT .............................33

Identify Your Model ......................33

Charge the Batteries .....................33

Balance Propellers ......................33

Range Check...........................33

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ...........33

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts).............34

General ...............................34

Radio Control ..........................34

CHECK LIST ............................34

FLYING.................................35

Fuel Mixture Adjustments .................35

Takeoff................................35

Flying.................................35

Landing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

Flaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations on your purchase of the Top Flite
Cessna 182 ARF! The Cessna 182 ARF is built using
virtually the same airframe as the very successful
Top Flite Cessna kit. With the time consuming tasks
of building, covering, and painting already done for
you, you can be flying your scale Cessna after as
little as 15 to 20 hours of assembly! A pre-painted
ABS cockpit kit is included for added realism. The
corrugated control surfaces, functional pre-installed
flying lights, and generous use of fiberglass are details
you typically won’t find in other scale ARF planes.
Although the Cessna 182 ARF already includes an
impressive list of these “extras” right out of the box,
the sky is the limit for the amount of additional scale
detail you can create while assembling the Cessna to
be truly admired at the flying field or in competition.

Because of its 81" wingspan, the Top Flite Cessna 182
ARF is eligible to be entered at IMAA events. In order
to be IMAA-legal, some of the control components
and hardware may need to be replaced to conform
to Giant Scale rules even though this model does not
require heavy duty hookups.

2

For the latest technical updates or manual corrections
to the Cessna 182 ARF visit the Top Flite web site at
www.top-flite.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, then
select the Cessna 182 ARF. If there is new technical
information or changes to this model, a “tech notice”
box will appear in the upper left corner of the page.

AMA

If you are not already a member of the AMA, please
join! The AMA is the governing body of model
aviation and membership provides liability insurance
coverage, protects modelers’ rights and interests and
is required to fly at most R/C sites.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at:

http://www.modelaircraft.org

IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you

can do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby
are to avoid flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid
flying near or over groups of people.

PROTECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF & OTHERS.....FOLLOW

THESE IMPORTANT SAFETY

PRECAUTIONS

1. Your Cessna 182 ARF should not be considered
a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that
functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because
of its performance capabilities, the Cessna, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly
cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage
to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as
doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model.
In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from
the photos. In those instances the written instructions
should be considered as correct.

3. You must take time to build straight, true
and strong.

4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in
good condition, a correctly sized engine, and other
components as specified in this instruction manual.
All components must be correctly installed so that the
model operates correctly on the ground and in the air.
You must check the operation of the model and all
components before every flight.

5. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not
flown this type of model before, we recommend that
you get the assistance of an experienced pilot in your
R/C club for your first flights. If you’re not a member
of a club, your local hobby shop has information
about clubs in your area whose membership includes
experienced pilots.

6. While this kit has been flight tested to exceed
normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely
high stress flying, such as racing, or if an engine
larger than one in the recommended range is used,
the modeler is responsible for taking steps to reinforce
the high stress points and/or substituting hardware
more suitable for the increased stress.

7. WARNING: The cowl, wheel pants, wing struts,
tail cone, wing tips and landing gear legs included
in this kit are made of fiberglass, the fibers of which
may cause eye, skin and respiratory tract irritation.
Never blow into a part (wheel pant, cowl) to remove
fiberglass dust, as the dust will blow back into your
eyes. Always wear safety goggles, a particle mask
and rubber gloves when grinding, drilling and sanding
fiberglass parts. Vacuum the parts and the work area
thoroughly after working with fiberglass parts.

We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top
quality, thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but
ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished
model depends on how you build it; therefore, we
cannot in any way guarantee the performance of
your completed model, and no representations
are expressed or implied as to the performance or
safety of your completed model.

Remember: Take your time and follow the
instructions to end up with a well-built model that
is straight and true.

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

This is a partial list of items required to finish the
Cessna 182 ARF that may require planning or decision
making before starting to build. Order numbers are
provided in parentheses.

BUILDING STAND

A building stand or cradle comes in very handy
during the build. We use the Robart Super Stand II
(ROBP1402) for most of our projects in R&D, and it
can be seen in pictures throughout this manual.

RADIO EQUIPMENT

A 6-channel radio system such as a Futaba® 6EXAS with
a standard receiver and six standard size servos with a
minimum torque of 44 oz-in [3.2 kg-cm] are required for
the control surfaces of the Cessna 182 ARF.

One standard torque servo such as an S3003 is required
for the throttle. Two 24" [610mm] servo extensions
(aileron servos), six 12" [305mm] servo extensions
(ailerons, flaps and wing tip lights) and two Y-harnesses
(aileron and flap servos) are also required. A receiver

battery pack with a minimum capacity of 1000mAh is
recommended. A 600mAh receiver pack for the flying
lights is also required. Order numbers are provided:

• FutabaS9001ServoAircraftCoreless

BB (FUTM0075)

• FutabaS3003ServoStandard(FUTM0031)

• Hobbico

• HobbicoExtension12"FutabaJ(HCAM2100)

• Futaba6"DualServoExtensionJ(FUTM4130)

• FutabaNR4RBReceiverNiCd4.8V1000mAh

J (FUTM1380)

• FutabaNR4JReceiverNiCdFlat4.8V600mAh

J (FUTM1280)

®

Extension 24" Futaba J (HCAM2200)

ENGINE RECOMMENDATIONS

A .60 to .91 cu in [10 to 15cc] two-stroke or .90 to

1.20 [15 to 20cc] four-stroke engine is required. An
O.S.® .61 FX two-stroke engine installation is shown
in this manual and is plenty of power for scale flight
and mild aerobatic maneuvers. Throttle management
should be practiced if installing a larger engine. If a
two-stroke engine is installed, a Pitts-style muffler is
also required.

• O.S..61FXNon-Ringedw/Mufer(OSMG0561)

• BissonO.S..61SF/FXPittsMufer(BISG4061)

The Cessna 182 ARF also includes provisions for
installing a brushless out-runner motor and lithium­polymer batteries. Installation instructions are
detailed in this manual for a brushless power system.
The following components are recommended for the
best performance:

• GreatPlanes® RimFire™ 1.20 (50-65-450) Out-

runner Brushless (GPMG4770)

• GreatPlanesBrushlessMotorMountLarge

Motors (GPMG1260)

• GreatPlanesSilverSeries60ABrushlessESC

High Volt (GPMM1850)

• GreatPlanesElectriFly™ LiPo 11.1V 3200mAh

20C Power (GPMP0623)

• GreatPlanesElectriFlyLiPo7.4V3200mAh20C

Power (GPMP0622)

3

(Note: Both of the above referenced batteries are
required and should be connected in series. One

18.5V pack will NOT work because it will not fit
into the battery compartment.)

• GreatPlanesSeriesDeans® U 2 to 1 adapter

(GPMM3143)

• GreatPlanesVelcro® Hook & Loop 1 x 6" (2)

(GPMQ4480)

• GreatPlanesElectriFlyEquinox™ LiPo Cell

Balancer 2–5 cell (GPMM3160)

A charger compatible with LiPo batteries such as:

• GreatPlanesPolyCharge4™ DC 4 Output LiPo

Charger (GPMM3015)

(Note: Since the Great Planes PolyCharge4
charger is capable of charging four LiPo battery
packs simultaneously, it is recommended to
purchase an Equinox cell balancer for each
battery pack in order to minimize charge times
between flights.)

• APC16x8ThinElectricPropeller(APCQ4015)

SCALE COMPETITION

Though the Top Flite Cessna 182 ARF may not have
the same level of detail as an “all-out” scratch-built
competition model, it is a scale model nonetheless
and is therefore eligible to compete in the Fun Scale
class in AMA competition (we receive many favorable
reports of Top Flite models in scale competition!). To
receive the five points for scale documentation, the only
proof required that a full size aircraft of this type in your
paint/markings scheme did exist is a single sheet such
as a kit box cover from a plastic model, a photo, or a
profile painting, etc. If the photo is in black and white
other written documentation of color must be provided.
Contact the AMA for a rule book with full details.

If you would like photos of the full-size Cessna 182
for scale documentation, or if you would like to study
the photos to add more scale details, photo packs are
available from:

Bob’s Aircraft Documentation

3114 Yukon Ave

Costa Mesa, CA 92626

Telephone: [phone]

Fax: [phone]

E-mail: www.bobsairdoc.com

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

HARDWARE & ACCESSORIES

In addition to the items listed in the “Decisions You
Must Make” section, following is the list of hardware

and accessories required to finish the Cessna 182
ARF. Order numbers are provided in parentheses.

o R/C foam rubber (1/4" [6mm] - HCAQ1000,

or 1/2" [13mm] - HCAQ1050)

o 3' [900mm] Standard silicone fuel

tubing (GPMQ4131)

ADHESIVES & BUILDING SUPPLIES

In addition to common household tools (screwdrivers,
drill, etc.), this is the “short list” of the most important
items required to build the Cessna 182 ARF. We

recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy glue.

o 1/2 oz. [15g] Thin Pro CA (GPMR6001)
o Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
o Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 5/64" [2mm], 3/32"

[2.4mm], 3/16" [4.8mm]

o 8-32 Tap and drill set (GPMR8103) (glow engine

installation only)

o Great Planes Pro Threadlocker (GPMR6060)
o #1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
o #11 Blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)
o Medium T-pins (100, HCAR5150)
o Masking tape (TOPR8018)
o Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)
o Panel line pen (TOPQ2510)
o Hobbico pin vise 1/16" Collet w/6 bits (HCAR0696)
o J&Z R/C-56 glue 4 oz (JOZR5007)
o Hobbico 5-1/2" curved tip canopy

scissors (HCAR0667)

4

o 220-grit Sandpaper
o Small clamps
o Petroleum jelly
o Oil

OPTIONAL SUPPLIES & TOOLS

Here is a list of optional tools that may help you build
the Cessna 182 ARF.

o 21st Century

®

sealing iron (COVR2700)

o 21st Century iron cover (COVR2702)
o 21st Century trim seal iron (COVR2750)
o 1/2 oz. [15g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6007)
o 1/2 oz. [15g] Thick Pro CA- (GPMR6013)
o Pro 6-minute epoxy (GPMR6045)
o Small metal file
o Stick-on segmented lead weights (GPMQ4485)
o 2 oz. [57g] spray CA activator (GPMR6035)
o 4 oz. [113g] aerosol CA activator (GPMR6034)
o CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
o CA debonder (GPMR6039)
o (6) Epoxy brushes (GPMR8060)
o Mixing sticks (GPMR8055)
o Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
o Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0630)
o Compressed air 10 oz (TAEC1060)
o Switch & charge jack mounting set (GPMM1000)
o Ernst charge receptacle Futaba J (ERNM3001)
o Rotary tool such as Dremel

®

o Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8200)
o Servo horn drill (HCAR0698)
o Hobby Heat
o Dead Center

locator (GPMR8130)

o AccuThrow
o C.G. Machine

™

micro torch (HCAR0755)

™

engine mount hole

™

deflection gauge (GPMR2405)

™

(GPMR2400)

o Precision magnetic prop balancer (TOPQ5700)
o Hobbico flexible 18" ruler stainless

steel (HCAR0460)

o Hobbico 8-piece ball tip hex “L” wrench

(SAE, HCAR0520)

o Hobbico 7-piece ball tip hex “L” wrench

(metric, HCAR0521)

o Great Planes precision prop reamer

(standard, GPMQ5006)

o Great Planes precision prop reamer

(metric, GPMQ5007)

o Great Planes clevis installation tool (GPMR8030)

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

•Therearetwotypesofscrewsusedinthiskit:

• Wheneverthetermglue is written you should rely

upon your experience to decide what type of glue to use.
When a specific type of adhesive works best for that
step, the instructions will make a recommendation.

• Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use
either 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute
epoxy. When 30-minute epoxy is specified it is
highly recommended that you use only 30-minute
(or 45-minute) epoxy, because you will need the
working time and/or the additional strength.

TOPA1758 Cowl
TOPA1759 Cockpit Kit
TOPA1760 Decal
TOPA1761 Window Set
TOPA1762 Aluminum Spinner
TOPA1763 Wing Struts
TOPA1764 Wing Tips
TOPA1765 Dummy Antennas
TOPA1766 Wheel Pants
TOPA1767 Landing Gear
TOPA1768 Lighting Kit

Sheet Metal Screws are designated by a number

and a length. For example #6 x 3/4" [19mm].

This is a number six screw that is 3/4" [19mm] long.

Machine Screws are designated by a number,
threads per inch, and a length. For example

4-40 x 3/4" [19mm].

This is a number four screw that is 3/4" [19mm] long
with forty threads per inch.

Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS) are designated
by a number, threads per inch, and a length. For
example 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm].

This is a 4-40 SHCS that is 3/4" [19mm] long with
forty threads per inch.

• Whenyouseethetermtest fit in the instructions,
it means that you should first position the part on
the assembly without using any glue, then slightly
modify or custom fit the part as necessary for the
best fit.

• Photos and sketches are placed before the step
they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in
following steps to get another view of the same parts.

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS

To order replacement parts for the Top Flite
Cessna 182 ARF, use the order numbers in the
Replacement Parts List that follows. Replacement
parts are available only as listed. Not all parts are
available separately (an aileron cannot be purchased
separately, but is only available with the wing kit).
Replacement parts are not available from Product
Support but can be purchased from hobby shops
or mail order/Internet order firms. Hardware items
(screws, nuts, bolts) are also available from these
outlets. If you need assistance locating a dealer to
purchase parts, visit www.top-flite.com and click
on “Where to Buy.” If this kit is missing parts, contact

Product Support.

REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST

Order Number Description How to purchase

Missing Pieces .................. Contact Product Support

Instruction Manual ............ Contact Product Support

Full-Size Plans ..................................... Not Available

Contact your hobby supplier to purchase these items:

TOPA1755 Fuselage Set
TOPA1756 Wing Set
TOPA1757 Tail Set (Elevators and Stabilizers)

5

KIT INSPECTION

Before starting to build, compare the parts in this kit
with the Replacement Parts List and note any missing
parts. Also inspect all parts to make sure they are of
acceptable quality. If any parts are missing, broken or
defective, or if you have any questions about building
or flying this airplane, please contact Top Flite at the
address or telephone number below. If requesting
replacement parts, please provide the full kit name
(Cessna 182 ARF) and the part numbers as listed in
the Replacement Parts List.

Top Flite Product Support:

3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1

Champaign, IL 61822

Telephone: [phone]

Fax: [phone]

E-mail: productsupport@top-flite.com.

19

20

18 19

1

2

3

4

21

5

6

7

8

9

12

11

13

10

24

25

26

16

14

15

17

2

22

29

27

2

31

23

28

29

30

32

27

33

34

35

6

KIT CONTENTS

PREPARATIONS

ASSEMBLE THE WING

1. Right Wing Tip

2. Wheels (3)

3. Right Wheel Pant

4. Hook & Loop Material

5. Right Landing Gear

6. Right Wing Panel (with Flap & Aileron)

7. Right Wing Strut

8. Adjustable Engine Mount

9. Fuel Tank

10. Fuselage

11. Cowl

12. Spinner

13. Nose Gear Wire

14. Windshield

15. Nose Wheel Pant

16. Left Wing Panel (with Flap & Aileron)

17. Left Wing Strut

18. Horizontal Stabilizer

19. Right & Left Elevator Halves

20. Rudder

21. Tail Cone

22. Side Windows

23. CA Hinge Material

24. Rear Window

25. Left Landing Gear

26. Left Wheel Pant

27. Wing Joiners (6)

28. 3-Way Light Connector

29. Lights (2)

30. Lighting Switch

31. Wing Center Section

32. Servo Mounting Blocks (8)

33. Elevator & Rudder Servo Trays

34. Receiver Tray Parts

35. Left Wing Tip

o 1. If you have not done so already, remove the

major parts of the kit from the box and inspect for
damage. If any parts are damaged or missing, contact
Product Support at the address or telephone number
listed in the “Kit Inspection” section on page 5.

o 2. Remove the tape and carefully separate all the

control surfaces. Use a covering iron with a covering
sock on medium/high heat to tighten the covering
if necessary. Apply pressure over sheeted areas to

thoroughly bond the covering to the wood.

HINGE THE AILERONS AND FLAPS

Do the right wing first so your
work matches the photos the
first time through. You can do
one wing at a time, or work
on them together. Also, we
suggest reading the entire
flap installation procedure
before beginning this
section so you will have an
understanding of how they
are hinged before gluing.

o o 1. Trim the triangular tabs from both sides of

three hinge points using a sharp hobby knife (protect
your fingers by holding the hinges with pliers while
trimming the tabs). Test fit (without glue) the hinge
points into the pre-drilled pockets in the flap and
wing so that the hinging direction of each hinge point
is parallel with the leading edge of the flap. Press the
hinge points into the pockets until the pin in each of
the hinge points is positioned over the flap hinge line
when the flap is in the up position as shown. Work
the flap up and down, ensuring that the flap moves
freely. When the flap is in the up position, it should sit
flush against the trailing edge of the wing.

7

Before performing steps 2 and 3, have denatured

Drill a 3/32" [2.4 mm] hole

1/2" [13mm] deep, in the center

of the hinge slot.

Cut the covering

away from the slot.

alcohol and some paper towel pieces ready for
epoxy cleanup.

o o 2. Make note how deep the hinge points fit into

the hinge pockets. Epoxy will be applied to the hinges
only on the portion that fits into the pockets. Remove
the flap from the wing panel and pull the hinge points
from the pockets. Coat the center of each hinge point
with petroleum jelly or oil. This will prevent epoxy
from sticking to the pivoting portion of the hinges and
will keep the hinges moving smoothly. Mix up a batch
of 30-minute epoxy. Use a toothpick or something
similar to coat the insides of the hinge point pockets
in the flap and the wing panel. Wipe away any excess
epoxy from around the pockets using a paper towel
dampened with alcohol.

o o 3. Coat the portion of each hinge point that fits

into the hinge pockets with epoxy. Insert the hinges
into the pockets in the flap and wing as was done in
step 1. Use a paper towel dampened with denatured
alcohol to clean up any epoxy. Work the flap up and
down to ensure it moves freely. Look at the flap from
the root rib and confirm that when the flap is all the
way in the up position, the top of the flap follows the
airfoil contour of the top of the wing. Also, confirm
that the flap is flush with the TE of the wing. Make
any small adjustments to the hinges as necessary.
When satisfied, set the wing aside and let the epoxy
cure undisturbed.

o o 5. Drill a 3/32” [2.4mm] hole 1/2” [13mm] deep

in the center of each hinge slot in the wing panel and
aileron. Use a sharp hobby knife to carefully cut away
the covering just around each hinge slot in the wing.

o o 4. Cut the included 2” x 9” [51mm x 229mm]

piece of CA hinge material into 3/4” x 1” [19mm x
25mm] individual hinges. Use a hobby knife or
scissors to trim the corners from each hinge to make
them easier to insert into the hinge slots.

8

Temporary pin

to keep the hinge

centered.

INSTALL THE AILERON SERVO & LINKAGE

Before completing this section, confirm that the
servos that you will be using will properly fit between
the servo mounting block locations on the aileron
and flap servo hatch covers. Make adjustments as
necessary for your brand servos. The block locations
shown in this section will fit a standard size Futaba
brand servo.

o o 1. Use epoxy to glue the 3/4" x 3/4" x 5/16"

[19 x 19 x 8mm] hardwood servo mounting blocks to
the inside of the aileron hatch cover. Be sure that the
blocks are aligned over the rectangles with the grain
direction perpendicular to the covers as shown. Allow
the epoxy to cure undisturbed.

o o 6. Fit a CA hinge into each hinge slot in the

wing panel. If the hinges are difficult to install, use a
hobby knife to slightly enlarge the slots. Push a pin
(T-pins work well for this) through the middle of each
hinge to keep them centered.

o o 7. Fit the aileron to the hinges and align the root

edge of the aileron with the root of the trailing edge for
the aileron on the wing panel as shown. Remove the
pins from the hinges and position the aileron against
the trailing edge of the wing panel. The hinge gap
between the aileron and wing should only be wide
enough to allow a small line of light through. When
satisfied, apply 6 drops of thin CA glue to the center
of each hinge on both sides. When the CA has dried,
gently pull on the aileron to confirm that it is securely
glued in place.

o 8. Repeat steps 1-7 for the left wing panel.

9

o o 2. Cut three arms from a four-armed servo arm

included with the aileron servo. Enlarge the outer hole
of the remaining arm with a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit.

o o 3. Attach a 24" [610mm] servo extension to

each aileron servo and secure the connector using
tape or heat shrink tubing. Center the servos with
your radio system and install the servo arm to the
servo perpendicular to the servo case as shown. Be
sure to reinstall the servo arm screw into the servo.

o o 4. Position the servo against the underside of

the aileron servo hatch cover between the mounting
blocks. Shim the aileron servo away from the hatch
cover approximately 3/64" [1.2mm] to isolate it from
vibration (a business card folded in thirds works
well for this). Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the
mounting tabs on the servo case into the blocks.
Thread a servo mounting screw (included with the
servo) into each hole and back it out. Apply a drop of
thin CA to each hole to harden the wood. When the
CA has dried, install the servo onto the hatch cover
using the hardware supplied with the servo.

o o 5. Use the strings taped inside the aileron servo

hatches to pull the servo leads through the wing ribs.

o o 6. Thread a #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] self-tapping

screw into each hatch mounting hole in the wing and
back it out. Apply a drop of thin CA to each hole to
harden the wood. Install the aileron hatch cover to
the wing as shown using four #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] self­tapping screws.

10

o o 7. Thread a nylon clevis 15 complete turns onto

a 6" [152mm] pushrod. Slide a silicone clevis retainer
onto the clevis and connect the clevis to the outer
hole of a nylon control horn.

o o 8. Position the control horn onto the aileron

between the two corrugations that are inline with
the aileron servo arm. Align the holes in the control

horn directly over the aileron hinge line and mark the

Servo Horn

1/16"

[1.6mm]

FasLink

2-56 (.074")

Pushrod Wire

location of the control horn mounting holes.

o o 9. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes at the marks you

made through the plywood plate inside the aileron.
Do not drill all the way through the aileron! Thread a
#2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] self-tapping screw through each
hole and back it out. Apply a couple drops of thin CA
glue to each hole to harden the wood. When the glue
has dried, install the control horn onto the aileron
using two #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] self-tapping screws.

pushrod where it crosses the outer hole in the servo
arm. Make a 90° bend at the mark on the pushrod
and cut off the excess pushrod 3/16" [4.8mm] beyond
the bend. Attach the pushrod to the servo arm using
a nylon FasLink. Thread the clevis up or down on the
pushrod as necessary to center the aileron with the
servo arm centered. Slide the silicone clevis retainer
to the end of the clevis to secure it.

o 11. Repeat steps 1 to 10 for the left wing panel.

INSTALL THE FLAP SERVO & LINKAGE

turns. Install a silicone clevis retainer onto the clevis.
Measure 3-1/4" [83mm] from the clevis pin and make
a bend in the pushrod. Cut off the excess pushrod
3/16" [4.8mm] beyond the bend.

o o 10. Use tape or a small clamp to hold the

aileron in the neutral position. Make a mark on the

o o 1. As you did with the aileron, glue the mounting

blocks to the underside of the flap servo hatch cover.
When the epoxy has cured, attach the flap servo to
the hatch cover using the hardware included with the
servo. Center the servo with your radio system and
install a servo arm at a 30° angle as shown. The flap
servo does not require a servo extension.

o o 2. Prepare the flap linkage by threading a

nylon clevis onto a 4" [102mm] pushrod 15 complete

11

o o 3. Slide the pushrod through the access hole in

the wing and connect the bent end of the pushrod to
the outer hole in the flap control horn using a nylon
FasLink. Connect the clevis to the outer hole in the
flap servo arm. Put the flap servo hatch cover in place
onto the wing. While holding the hatch cover down,
use your radio system to test the operation of the flap.
Make any adjustments necessary to the position of
the clevis on the pushrod or the servo arm.

o o 4. When satisfied with the operation of the flap,

NOTE FLAP SERVO ORIENTATION

slide the silicone clevis retainer to the end of the
clevis. Install the flap servo hatch cover onto the wing
using four #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] self-tapping screws. Be
sure to reinforce the screw holes with thin CA glue.

o 5. Repeat steps 1 to 4 for the left wing panel. Make

note that the flap servo arm will be mounted on the
wing tip side of the left wing panel so that when the flap
servos are joined together using a Y-harness, they will
both move in the same direction (see diagram below).

FINISH THE WING

o 1. Sand the inside face of the wing tips with

220-grit sandpaper. Clean the surfaces with a cloth
dampened with denatured alcohol. As you did with
the ailerons, use the string to pull the wingtip light
wires through the wing panels. Use epoxy to glue the
wing tips to the wing, being sure that the curved tips
point to the underside of the wing. Align the tops and
bottoms of the wing tips flush with the wing and the
LE of the tips with the LE of the wing. Use tape to
hold the tips in position while the epoxy cures.

o 2. Locate the wing joiner pieces (two aluminum,

four plywood). Roughen both sides of each aluminum
joiner piece with 220-grit sandpaper or a rotary tool
with a grinding bit. Clean the parts with alcohol. Glue
three pieces together with the aluminum joiner piece
sandwiched between the plywood pieces using
30-minute epoxy. Make sure that the sides are flush
with each other. Glue the other three pieces together
to make a second joiner. Wipe away any excess epoxy
with denatured alcohol. Small clamps can be used to
hold the pieces together while the epoxy cures.

12

o 3. Test fit a joiner into the joiner pocket of one wing

panel and the mating side of the wing center section
with the “V” shaped side pointing to the bottom of the
wing. The joiner should be able to fit halfway into each
pocket and be slightly loose to allow room for epoxy.
Sand the joiner as necessary for the proper fit. Repeat
this procedure for the other wing panel. Dry fit the wing
panels and center section together using the joiners.
Route the servo leads and wingtip light leads through
the large holes on the bottom of the center section.
The root ribs of the panels and center section should
sit flat against each other with no gaps. Lightly sand the
face of the root ribs if necessary to eliminate any gaps
between the wing panels and center section. Make
note that the LE of the wing panels extend beyond the
front of the wing center section and the TE of the center
section extends aft of the root ribs of the wing panels.
Use a fine-tip pen or a pencil to mark these edges so
you will know where to apply epoxy in step 3.

Read through all of step 4 before proceeding. If you
feel that you need extra working time, the wing panels
can be joined to the center section one at a time.

o 4. When satisfied with the fit of the wing panels

and center section, mix up approximately 1 oz [30cc]
of 30-minute epoxy and coat the inside of the wing
joiner pockets in each wing panel and center section.
Coat one half of each wing joiner and slide it into the
wing panels. Coat the root ribs of both wing panels
and center section as well as the exposed ends of
the joiners. Join the wing panels to the center section
and use paper towels dampened with denatured
alcohol to wipe away any excess epoxy from the
joint between the panels. Use masking tape to hold
the wing assembly together tightly. Set the wing
aside and let the epoxy cure undisturbed. For added
working time, the wing panels can be glued to the
center section one at a time.

13

o 5. Locate the two nylon wing dowels. Use epoxy to

glue the wing dowels into the holes in the LE of the wing
center section. The smooth end of the dowels should
protrude from the LE approximately 5/8" [16mm].

INSTALL THE TAIL, LANDING

GEAR & SERVOS

INSTALL THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER,
ELEVATORS AND RUDDER

o 1. Temporarily attach the wing to the fuselage

using two 1/4-20 nylon wing bolts. The nylon wing
dowels fit into receiving holes in the former just behind
the location of the windshield. Test fit the horizontal
stabilizer into the saddle in the fuselage. The beveled
TE on the stab should slope forward from the top of
the stab to the bottom. If not, the stab is installed

upside-down (see the photo at step 2 for a close-up).

AA

BB

A=A
B=B

Stand back 15 to 20ft [5 to 6m] and check to be sure
the stab is parallel to the wing. If necessary, adjust
the stab saddle as needed by lightly sanding it until
the stab and wing are parallel.

fuselage. Slide the stab into position in front of the
elevator joiner rod. Center the stab left and right in
the fuselage and measure the distance from the tip
of each wing to the tips of the stab. Adjust the stab
until the distance from the tip of the stab to the tip of
the wing is equal on both sides. When satisfied, wipe
away excess epoxy with denatured alcohol, confirm
that you have not glued the elevator joiner wire to the
stab, and let the epoxy cure undisturbed.

elevator joiner wire and clean them with alcohol. Test
fit the elevators to the hinges in the stab and joiner
wire. The joiner wire ends fit into the holes at the TE
of both elevator halves. Look at the elevator halves
from behind and confirm that they are parallel. If not,
remove the elevators and gently bend the joiner wire
as necessary. When satisfied, apply a light coating
of epoxy to the ends of the joiner wire and join the
elevators to the stab with the hinges. Be sure that the
elevators are evenly spaced from the fuselage. Wipe
away any excess epoxy from around the joiner wire.
Remove the pins from the hinges and position the
elevators against the TE of the stab. The hinge gap
between the elevators and stab should only be wide
enough to allow a small line of light through. When
satisfied, apply 6 drops of thin CA glue to the center
of each hinge on both sides. When the CA has dried,
gently pull on the elevators to confirm that they are
securely glued in place.

o 2. Remove the stab from the fuselage. Place the

elevator joiner rod into the half-circle notches at
the aft end of the stab saddle in the fuselage with
the control horn pointing down. Mix up a batch of
30-minute epoxy and coat the top and bottom of
the stab where it will contact the stab saddle in the

o 3. Fit a CA hinge into each hinge slot in the stab.

If the hinges are difficult to install, use a hobby knife
to slightly enlarge the slots. Roughen the ends of the

14

o 4. Roughen the plastic tube on the rudder

steering rod with 220-grit sandpaper. Install a nylon

torque rod horn onto the threaded end of the rudder
steering rod.

o 5. Insert the rudder steering rod up through the

access hatch beneath the stab and in front of the
elevator joiner wire. The rod should pass through the
hole at the base of the vertical fin. Use epoxy or thick
CA to glue the plastic tube on the rudder steering rod
to the slot in the TE of the stab and vertical fin.

o 6. As you did with the elevators, install the rudder

to the fin with CA hinges.

o 2. Install the axles onto the main landing gear

legs using two 5/16"-24 nylon locknuts.

o 4. Loosely thread a 6-32 x 1/4" [6mm] SHCS into

each wheel collar along with threadlocking compound.
Reinstall the wheel collars and wheels onto the axles
and tighten the SHCS against the flat spots. Confirm
that the wheels spin freely on the axles. Oil the axles
as necessary. Install the wheel pants onto the main
landing gear legs using 4-40 x 3/8" [9.5mm] machine
screws and threadlocking compound.

INSTALL THE LANDING GEAR

o 1. Cut the included 5/32"

x 2" [4 x 51mm] bolt-on axles
to 1-1/2" [38mm].

o 3. Slide a 5/32" [4mm] wheel collar onto each axle

followed by a 3-1/4" [83mm] main wheel and another
5/32" [4mm] wheel collar. Hold a wheel pant against
the base of each landing gear leg and center the
wheels in the pants. Mark the location of the wheel
collars onto the axles, remove the hardware, and file
flat spots at the marks you made using a rotary tool
or metal file.

15

o 5. Insert the landing gear legs into the slots in the

fuselage. Attach the gear to the fuselage using six
6-32 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS, six #6 flat washers, six #6
lock washers, and threadlocking compound.

flat spot on the nose gear wire and tighten the set screw
in the wheel collar against the upper flat spot. Be careful
when tightening the SHCS in the steering arm to prevent
stripping the brass insert in the arm.

o 6. Insert the nose gear wire into the front wheel pant

as shown. Slide a 5.5mm wheel collar onto the nose
gear wire followed by the 2-3/4" [70mm] nose wheel,
and another 5.5mm wheel collar. Center the wheel in
the pant and mark the location of the wheel collars
onto the nose gear axle. As you did with the main
landing gear, file flat spots at the marks you made.

o 7. Loosely thread a 3 x 4mm machine screw with

threadlocking compound into each 5.5mm wheel
collar. Reinstall the wheel collars and nose wheel
onto the nose gear wire along with the wheel pant.
Tighten the screws in the wheel collars onto the flat
spots you made on the axle. Confirm that the wheel
spins freely on the axle. Add oil as necessary.

o 8. Center the nylon landing gear strap onto the

nose gear wire 1/2" [13mm] above the axle. Mark the
location for the mounting holes. Carefully drill 3/32"
[2.4mm] holes at your marks. Thread a #4 x 3/8"
[9.5mm] self-tapping screw into each hole and back
it out. Apply a drop of thin CA to each hole to harden
the wood. When the CA has hardened, attach the
strap to the wheel pant using two #4 x 3/8" [9.5mm]
self-tapping screws.

o 9. Cut the nylon nose gear bearing block into two

pieces as shown and flip them over. Sand the top
and bottoms of the pieces smooth. Loosely thread a
4-40 x 1/4" [6mm] SHCS with threadlocking compound
into the nylon steering arm. Loosely thread a 3 x 4mm
machine screw into the remaining 5.5mm wheel collar
with threadlocking compound. Slide one of the bearing
blocks onto the nose gear wire followed by the steering
arm, the other bearing block, and then the wheel collar.
Tighten the SHCS in the steering arm against the lower

16

o 10. Mount the nose gear bearing block pieces to

the firewall using four 4-40 x 5/8" [16mm] machine
screws and threadlocking compound. If necessary, oil
the nose gear wire to ensure that it rotates smoothly
within the bearing block.

INSTALL THE TAIL SERVOS & PUSHRODS

o 1. Position the elevator and rudder servo trays onto

the hardwood rails glued inside the fuselage as shown.
Drill through the mounting holes in the trays into the

hardwood rails using a 1/16" [1.6mm] drill bit. Thread a
#2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] self-tapping screw into each hole and
back it out. Apply a drop of thin CA to each hole and
let it harden. Install the trays into the fuselage using six
#2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] self-tapping screws.

o 2. Install the elevator and rudder servos onto the

trays with the servo splines toward the front of the
plane. Use the hardware included with the servos
to mount them to the trays. Be sure to reinforce the
servo mounting holes with thin CA.

hole in the remaining arm with a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit.
Install the servo arm perpendicular to the length of
the fuselage pointing inward as shown. Cut two arms
opposite each other from a four-armed servo arm for
your rudder servo. Enlarge the second inner holes
in both remaining arms with a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit.
Install the servo arm perpendicular to the length of
the fuselage.

o 4. Thread a nylon clevis 15 complete turns onto a

36" [914mm] pushrod. Slide a silicone clevis retainer
onto the clevis. Insert the pushrod through the aft end
of the elevator outer pushrod tube and connect the
clevis to the outer hole of the elevator control horn.

o 5. With the elevators in the neutral position, mark

the pushrod where it crosses the second inner hole
in the elevator servo arm. Make a 90° bend at the
mark on the pushrod and cut off the excess pushrod
1/4" [6mm] beyond the bend. Attach the pushrod
to the servo arm using a nylon FasLink. Thread the
clevis up or down on the pushrod as necessary to
center the elevators with the servo arm centered.
Slide the silicone clevis retainer to the end of the
clevis to secure it.

o 3. Center the elevator and rudder servos with your

radio system. Cut three arms from a four-armed servo
arm for your elevator servo. Enlarge the second inner

o 6. Install the rudder pushrod in the same manner.

17

o 9. Install a brass screw-lock pushrod connector

into the outer hole of the steering arm with a nylon
screw-lock pushrod connector retainer. The connector
should be installed on the underside of the arm.
Loosely thread a 4-40 x 1/8" [3.2mm] SHCS into the
screw-lock pushrod connector.

o 7. Make a small notch in the tail cone to

accommodate the rudder steering rod. Install
the tail cone onto the fuselage and mark and drill
1/16" [1.6mm] holes on both sides of the tail cone,
being sure that you are drilling into the hardwood
mounting blocks on the fuselage. Thread a #2 x 3/8"
[9.5mm] screw into each hole and back it out. Apply
a drop of thin CA into each hole to harden the wood.
When the CA has dried, install the tail cone onto the
fuselage using two #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] screws and
two #2 flat washers.

o 8. Use a hobby knife to score the perforations on

the firewall in order to open the pre-cut hole behind the
nose gear steering arm. With the perforations scored,
the piece can be knocked out using a tool handle or
something similar. Fuelproof the edges of the hole
with epoxy as well as the accessible area behind the
hole. Cut a piece from the included outer pushrod
tube 7-1/4" [184mm] long. Insert the tube through the
large hole behind the steering arm on the nose wheel
and through the small hole in the former behind the
firewall. Position the tube so that it protrudes aft of
the third former approximately 2" [51mm] as shown.
Remove the tube from the fuselage and use 220-grit
sandpaper to roughen the tube where it will be glued
to the second and third formers. Clean the sanding
dust from the tube and glue it to the hole in the
second former.

o 10. Slide the 12" [305mm] pushrod into the steering

pushrod tube with the threaded end toward the rear
of the plane. Fit the forward end through the screw-

18

lock pushrod connector and position it so that the
forward end protrudes approximately 3/8" [9.5mm]
beyond the connector. Align the nose gear so that
the wheel is pointing straight ahead. With the rudder
in the neutral position, mark where the pushrod
crosses the second inner hole in the remaining
rudder servo arm. Remove the pushrod from the
tube, make a 90° bend at the mark on the pushrod
and cut off the excess pushrod 1/4" [6mm] beyond
the bend. Reinstall the pushrod into the tube and
fit the forward end through the screw-lock pushrod
connector. Attach the pushrod to the servo arm
using a nylon FasLink. Make any fine adjustments
necessary. Then, tighten the SHCS in the screw-lock
pushrod connector against the pushrod.

INSTALL THE POWER SYSTEM

The following sections contain detailed instructions
for mounting an O.S. .61 FX two-stroke glow engine
and the Great Planes RimFire 1.20 (50-65-450kV)
out-runner brushless motor. Each specific installation
only contains information relevant to that particular
power system so you can skip directly to the section
that matches your choice of power systems.

GLOW ENGINE INSTALLATION

The installation of a brand of glow engine other
than the O.S. .61 FX should be similar to the
procedure listed below for the O.S. model.

tank would need to be done through the carb line, or
an optional fuel fill valve (not included). The tank can
also be assembled as a three line system having a
vent line, carb line, and fill line. If installing a fill line,
puncture the top of the stopper above the sealed off
fuel tube hole. The fill and carb lines should extend
out 1/2" [13mm] beyond the stopper and the vent line
should be bent upwards and left uncut. With the tubes
installed in the stopper, fit the stopper plates loosely
in place with the 3 x 25mm Phillips screw to hold the
assembly together.

o 11. Use a plywood pushrod tube support to

secure the steering pushrod tube to the third former.
Glue the outer pushrod tube to the support and glue
the support to the third former as shown.

o 1. The fuel tank can be assembled as a two line

system consisting of a vent (pressure) line to the
muffler and a carb line. Filling and emptying of the

19

o 2. Fit the stopper assembly into the tank with the

vent line pointing toward the top of the tank, but not
touching. The fuel tubing and clunks (fuel pickup) on
the carb and fill lines should almost reach the back
of the tank but not touch. The clunks must be able
to move freely inside the tank when assembled.

Adjust the length of the fuel tubing accordingly. When
satisfied, tighten the 3 x 25mm screw in the stopper
to secure it in place (do not overtighten). Mark the
side of the tank that must face up when installed in
the plane, and we also suggest marking the tubes in
the stopper.

o 4. Glue the 1/4" x 1/4" x 1-1/4" [6 x 6 x 32mm] hardwood

stick behind the fuel tank to secure it in place. (This step
can also be performed after step 8. You may want to slide
the tank back slightly when drilling a hole for the throttle
pushrod.)

o 3. Attach a 6" to 7" [152 to 178mm] piece of fuel

tubing onto each line coming from the tank. Insert the
tank into the fuselage with the correct side facing up
as far forward as it will fit.

o 5. Using four 8-32 x 1-1/4" [32mm] SHCS, four #8

flat washers, four #8 lock washers, and threadlocking
compound, attach the engine mount on its side to the
firewall. Position the mount so the engine head will
face the right side of the fuselage. Leave the screws
slightly loose. Test fit your engine between the mount
halves. Slide the mount halves against the sides of
the engine and finish tightening the mount screws.

20

o 6. Position the front of the engine drive washer

6-3/16" [157mm] from the firewall. If installing a .61
FX, the side of the firewall mounting box will need
to be notched to accommodate the needle valve.
Mark the location of the engine mount holes onto
the mount rails using a Dead Center Hole Locator.
Remove the engine from the mount and use a 8-32
tap and drill set to create threads in the four mounting

holes. Attach the engine to the mount using four
8-32 x 1" [25mm] SHCS, four #8 flat washers, and
four #8 lock washers.

o 7. Install the throttle servo in the location shown.

Because of the tight working space here, a Hobbico
Pin Vise (HCAR0696) is very useful in this step. Use
the hardware included with the servo.

o 8. Drill a 3/16" [4.8mm] hole in the firewall inline

with the throttle arm on the carburetor at a slight angle
pointing to the throttle servo. We used an extra long
drill bit (HIGR1020). If you do not have an extra long
bit, you may need to mark the location for the hole
on the firewall and temporarily remove the engine to
drill the hole. Make sure you do not drill into the

fuel tank!

o 9. Cut three arms from a four-armed servo arm. Install

a brass screw-lock pushrod connector into the second
outer hole of the remaining arm using a nylon retainer.
Loosely thread a 4-40 x 1/8" [3mm] SHCS into the screw­lock pushrod connector. Use your radio system to center
the throttle servo and attach the arm perpendicular to the
servo case pointing to the center of the fuselage. Be sure
to install the servo arm screw. Thread a nylon clevis and
silicone clevis retainer onto a 12" [305mm] pushrod. Fit
the pushrod through the hole you drilled in the firewall and
connect the clevis to the throttle arm on the carburetor. The
other end should pass through the screw-lock pushrod
connector. Make any necessary bends to the pushrod so
it moves smoothly through the hole and does not contact
the engine crankcase during any point in its travel. Operate
the throttle servo with your radio system to confirm
the servo properly opens and closes the carb. When
satisfied, tighten the SHCS in the screw-lock pushrod
connector against the pushrod, cut off the excess pushrod
3/8" [9.5mm] beyond the connector, and slide the silicone
clevis retainer to the end of the clevis.

21

o 10. Install a Pitts-style muffler onto the engine. Cut

the vent line and carb lines to the appropriate length
and connect them to the engine and muffler. Use the
included fuel line plug for the fill line. Parts are included
for an optional fill line clip that can be glued to the
bottom of the first former as shown. Glue the parts
together and fuelproof the assembly with epoxy.

BRUSHLESS MOTOR INSTALLATION

The installation of a brand of out-runner brushless
motor other than the Great Planes RimFire 1.20
(50-65-450kV) (GPMG4770) should be similar to
the procedure listed below for the Great Planes
model. Be sure to maintain the correct prop adapter
distance from the firewall regardless of which motor
you choose to install.

o 1. Attach the motor to the brushless motor mount

using four 3 x 8mm machine screws, four 3mm flat
washers, and threadlocking compound. You may need
to remove the brass collar to fit the motor to the mount.
Be sure and replace the collar after the motor is installed.
If you haven’t done so already, install the prop adapter
to the front of the motor using the hardware included
with the motor and threadlocking compound.

o 3. Loosen the motor mount assembly screws and adjust

the mount halves so that the face of the prop adapter
is 6-3/16" [157mm] from the firewall. Use threadlocking
compound and securely tighten all screws.

the ESC in place. If your ESC has mounting tabs for
screws, the hook and loop strap plus one screw at
the aft end is sufficient to secure the ESC. If the ESC
does not have mounting tabs for screws, use self­adhesive hook and loop material (not included) plus
the hook and loop strap.

o 5. As you did for the nose gear pushrod, cut the

perforations along the hole outline on the firewall
and knock out the plywood piece. This hole, along
with the nose gear pushrod hole, are inline with the
battery pack locations and will provide cool air to the
packs while in flight.

FINISH THE MODEL

INSTALL THE RECEIVER & BATTERIES

o 2. Attach the mount to the firewall on its side using

four 8-32 x 1" [25mm] SHCS, four #8 flat washers,
four #8 lock washers and threadlocking compound.

o 4. Make a hook and loop strap for your ESC from

the included hook and loop material by overlapping
mating ends by approximately 1" [25mm]. The total
length of the strap will depend on the size of your
ESC. Slots are provided on the fuel tank tray to strap

22

o 1. Make a hook and loop strap for your receiver

pack from the included hook and loop material by
overlapping mating ends by approximately 1" [25mm].
The total length of the strap will depend on the size
of your battery. Wrap the pack in foam rubber (not
included) and use the strap to secure it to the side of
the motor mounting box as shown.

o 2. Install the battery pack for the lighting system

in the same manner on the other side of the motor
mounting box.

o 3. Locate the six pieces that make up the plywood

receiver tray. Glue the pieces together as shown.
The small rectangular piece fits into the three pieces
with slots and keys these pieces together.

o 4. Wrap your receiver in foam rubber and use

rubber bands to secure it to the receiver tray. Two
rubber bands are recommended in case one should
happen to break during flight.

cutout. With the receiver tray pushed as far forward as
it will go, confirm that the tab is holding the receiver
tray down by gently pulling upward on the tray. When
satisfied, drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the screw
hole on the receiver tray and into the fuel tank tray.
Use a #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] self-tapping screw and #2
flat washer to secure the receiver tray in place. Be
sure to harden the hole with thin CA.

o 6. Install your receiver switch and charge jack on

the side of your fuselage. Be sure that the location
you choose will not interfere with servos, pushrods,
or the cockpit (look ahead in the manual to see the
position of the cockpit kit components).

o 5. Slide the tab on the underside of the receiver

tray onto the forward edge of the unused throttle servo

23

o 7. Connect the servos to the receiver. Route

the receiver antenna into the antenna tube that is
preinstalled in the fuselage. Use tape or a dot of
silicone adhesive to secure the antenna to the forward
end of the tube.

INSTALL THE COWL

o 1. Make paper templates for the location of the

muffler outlets, glow plug, needle valve, etc. Tape the
templates to the fuselage.

o 2. Remove the muffler from the engine. Mark the

center of each cowl mounting block onto the fuselage
with a felt-tip pen. Position the cowl onto the fuselage
and mark where the bottom of the cowl will need to
be cut for the nose gear wire. Make the necessary
cut, reinstall the cowl onto the fuselage and make
small adjustments to align the engine crankshaft in
the opening in the front of the cowl. Use the spinner
backplate to ensure that the cowl is centered. When
satisfied, tape the cowl in place. Mark the cowl
3/8" [9.5mm] forward of the aft edge of the cowl at the
center of each mounting block. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm]
hole at each mark through the cowl and into the
mounting blocks.

24

o 3. Before removing the cowl from the fuselage,

use the paper templates to mark where cutouts will
need to be made. Remove the cowl and make the
necessary cutouts using a rotary tool. Use 220-grit
sandpaper to roughen the openings in the cowl for
the landing lights and also sand the light housings
(do not sand the clear lenses on the lights). Glue the
lights into the openings in the cowl with epoxy. Be
sure that the lights are inserted forward of the aft

edge of the openings. If not, the light housings may
interfere with the engine. When the epoxy has cured,
use pieces of rubber band to hold the light wires out
of the way of the engine.

o 4. Route the landing light wires through one of the

openings in the firewall and into the fuselage. Install
the cowl onto the fuselage using five #2 x 1/2" [13mm]
self-tapping screws and five #2 flat washers. Be sure
to harden the holes in the cowl mounting blocks with
thin CA.

INSTALL THE COCKPIT WINDOWS

o 1. Trim the covering from the window openings in the

fuselage, leaving approximately 1/4" [6mm] covering to
fold over and seal to the inside edges of the openings.
Use a trim iron to seal down the covering. Small pieces
can be cut from the scrap covering to fill in the exposed
plywood edges at the corners of the windows. Trim off
the remaining covering as necessary.

o 2. Use canopy scissors to trim the rear window

to size. Leave a gluing flange around the window
approximately 1/8" [3.2mm] wide. Glue the rear
window in place. If canopy glue is used, you will need
to tape the window in place and temporarily glue a
stick on the inside of the window to hold it against the
window opening while the glue dries overnight.

o 4. Test fit the windshield onto the fuselage. If

necessary, trim it for a good fit. When satisfied, glue
the windshield into position. Tape the windshield in
place and allow the glue to fully dry. For a cleaner
look, apply glue only in the area that will be covered
by the wing. Sapphire blue MonoKote trim sheet can
be used to seal the front and bottom edges of the
windshield to the fuselage. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes
in the location shown in the picture and secure the
aft bottom corners of the windshield in place with two
#2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] screws and two #2 flat washers.
We suggest drilling the holes into the center of the
wing dowel fuselage formers so the screw tips will not
be seen inside the model when installed.

o 5. Install the included switch for the landing lights

(be sure that the charge lead remains accessible).
Connect the included 3-way parallel connector to the
two lights in the cowl and the wire leading from the
beacon light in the tail. Join the lights to the switch
and connect the light battery to the switch. Confirm
the operation of the lights by flipping the switch on
and off.

o 3. Install the side windows in the same manner.

25

INSTALL THE COCKPIT KIT

When installing the cockpit kit, be sure to go slowly
and only trim small amounts at a time. Remember, it is
easy to remove material, but it is much more difficult to
put it back! Several different glues could be used during
the assembly. We suggest keeping the cockpit floor
removable in case access to the servos or receiver is
necessary. Hot glue or silicone sealant can be used
to glue parts that should be removable. Strategically
placed pieces of self-adhesive hook and loop material
could also be used. Thin and thick CA glue or epoxy
can be used to permanently glue parts together.

made in the back of the top half as shown. Test fit
the top half over the bottom half. The total height of
the seat bottom is not critical, but ours is 1" [25mm].
When satisfied with the fit, separate the parts and
finish sand the edges of the pieces. Glue the halves
together (thin CA works well).

o 1. Before installing the cockpit kit, servo extensions

must be routed for the flap and aileron servos. Attach
a dual servo extension to the flap channel and aileron
channel on your receiver. Shrink a 1" [25mm] piece of
3/8" [9.5mm] heat shrink tubing around two 12" [305mm]
servo extensions. Make another pair of 12" [305mm]
servo extensions using another 1" [25mm] piece of
3/8" [9.5mm] heat shrink tubing. Shrink the tubing
around the servo extensions. Connect the servo
extensions to the dual servo extensions plugged into
the flap and aileron channels. Be sure that each pair
of servo extensions has one plugged into the flap
channel and one plugged into the aileron channel.
Glue the heat shrink tubing to the sides of the
fuselage in the location shown. Doing so will provide
easy access to plug in the flap and aileron servos
after the cockpit kit has been installed. Do the same
for the leads for the wingtip lights.

o 2. Begin by cutting out the seat bottoms for the

front seats. Canopy scissors work well for this. There
are cut lines on the parts. However, we suggest
cutting approximately 1/4" [6mm] beyond the cut
lines and assembling the halves by overlapping the
edges. (If you choose, you could cut along the cut
lines and edge glue the two halves together. Because
the pieces come pre-painted, a good fit would be
difficult doing it this way). Small slits will need to be

26

o 3. The seat back halves are cut and assembled

the same way. Make note how the bottom edge of the
seat back is trimmed to fit inside the seat bottom. This
is a trial and error fit, so trim away small amounts at a
time and test fit the piece until a good fit is achieved.
When satisfied with the fit, finish sand the edges and
glue the halves together.

o 4. Fit the assembled seat back to the seat bottom.

Make any final adjustments to the fit and glue the
assemblies together.

o 5. The back seat is assembled in the same manner

as the front.

o 6. Cut out the cockpit back panel. Slots will need to be

made for the elevator and rudder pushrod tubes, as well
as a cutout for the tail light wire to pass under. The piece
should sit flat against the fuselage former just behind
the back window. Glue the cockpit back in place.

Work slowly during step 7 to cut cockpit side panels
that fit well.

27

o 7. Rough cut the cockpit side panels leaving as

much material as possible. Slots will need to be cut
at the top and bottom of the pieces to fit around the
fuselage formers. Temporarily fit the pieces in place
and use a felt-tip pen or pencil to mark the center
of each former onto the side pieces where they will
need to be trimmed (be careful not to get pen marks
in areas that will not be cut away since the ink would
be difficult to remove from the painted pieces). With
the slots cut in the correct positions, carefully start
trimming the top, outside edges of the side panels.
The top of the panels should rest on the fuselage
stringers that are located just below the side windows.
Trim these edges so that there are no gaps between
the top edges of the side panels and the fuselage
sides. The panels will need to be gently forced
against the fuselage sides to follow the contour of the
fuselage. When satisfied with the fit, finish sand the
edges and glue the panels in place.

Before installing the cockpit floor, review the
inside of the fuselage one more time and confirm
that all fine adjustments to the servos have been
made, connections to the receiver are made and
in place, etc.! You do not want to install the cockpit
floor only to discover later that you forgot to
connect the Y-harnesses for the flap and aileron
servos to the receiver. We suggest testing the
servo operation for ALL of the control surfaces
using the radio system before proceeding.

o 9. Cut out the steering yokes and sand the bottom

edges smooth. Fill the inside center of the yokes
with epoxy and embed the included 1/8" x 1-1/2"
[3 x 38mm] dowel rods into the epoxy. Set them at a
slight angle as shown. Just as the epoxy begins to
get hot and harden, hold the dowels in the desired
position while the epoxy finishes hardening.

o 8. Rough cut the cockpit floor to shape. Leave as

much material as possible to test fit the floor into the
fuselage. The front side should be carefully folded as
shown to fit around the fuel tank and fuel tank tray.
The floor is installed into the fuselage by sliding it
into the cockpit in front of the forward arm rests. Pull
the floor all the way back to the cockpit back panel.
The floor should rest on top of the bottom shoulders
of the side panels. If the floor will not fit between the
side panels, remove it and carefully trim it narrower
until a good fit is achieved. We notched the back of
the panel and folded the aft edge upward to clear the
rudder and elevator pushrod tubes. Fit the forward
end of the cockpit floor up and over the fuel tank and
tray. When a good fit has been achieved, glue the floor
in place (the front of the floor panel that fits around
the top of the fuel tank will be held down in place by
the instrument panel). We cut sticks from scrap balsa
(not included) and tightly fit them between the panel
sides to hold the floor down while the glue hardens.

28

o 10. Glue the steering yoke dowel rods into the

recesses in the instrument panel. Test fit the instrument

panel in place in the fuselage. It should fit snugly over
the portion of the cockpit floor that rests on top of the
fuel tank. Glue the instrument panel in position.

o 11. Glue the seats to the cockpit floor. Remember,

the seats should also be removable in case the floor
needs to be taken out. Hot glue works well for this. Small
dots of medium or thick CA could also be used.

INSTALL THE SPINNER & PROPELLER

o 1. Locate the spinner hardware. A two-stroke and

four-stroke spinner nut are provided.

o 2. Ream your prop as necessary. Install the spinner

backplate, propeller, propeller washer and spinner
nut onto the engine crankshaft. If you installed a
four-stroke engine, use the four-stroke spinner nut.

FINAL TOUCHES

o 1. Locate the small pin holes in the covering on the

fuselage and wing for the wing struts. Align the holes
in the wing struts over the pin holes in the covering and
confirm that they will line up (the end of the strut with
the flat base is installed on the wing). If not, make new
pin holes that align with the holes in the struts as near
to the original pin holes as possible. When satisfied,
drill 3/32" [2.4mm] holes at the pin holes into the strut
mounting blocks underneath the fuselage sheeting.
Thread a #4 x 5/8" [16mm] self-tapping screw into
each hole and back it out. Apply a couple drops of
thin CA to each hole to harden the wood. Install the
struts between the wing and fuselage using four #4 x
5/8" [16mm] self-tapping screws.

o 3. Tighten the spinner cone to the backplate using

the 4 x 45mm SHCS.

29

o 2. Roughen 1/4" [6mm] from one end of each metal

antenna wire and clean the area with alcohol. Glue
the antennas into the antenna bases as shown. We
used thick CA. However, epoxy could also be used.

o 3. The antenna bases fit into the wing bolt holes

and are held securely in place with magnets.

IMPORTANT: Before experimenting with different
battery combinations and connecting multiple battery
packs with adapter plugs, refer to the “Battery
Precautions” on page 30.

configuration includes a 3-cell and a 2-cell LiPo
connected in series, the 2-cell pack should be
installed in the left battery compartment to avoid
interfering with the nose gear pushrod. Tabs are
provided above and below each battery compartment
to loop rubber bands around for securing the packs in
the compartments. The 2-cell pack should also have
a strip of self-adhesive hook and loop material (not
included) applied to prevent it from moving up and
down in the compartment.

o 6. This completes the Cessna 182 ARF assembly!

4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to
squeegee remaining water from under the decal.
Apply the rest of the decals the same way.

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY

INSTALL & CONNECT THE MOTOR BATTERY

IMPORTANT: If using multiple battery packs that are

connected with an adapter, never charge the batteries
together through the adapter. Always charge each
battery pack separately. Charge the batteries, then
read the following precautions on how to connect
multiple packs for flying the model:

Battery Precautions:

There are two ways to connect multiple battery packs:
In Series and in Parallel.

o 4. If you installed a brushless motor, cut the

covering around the perimeter of the battery hatch.
Remove the covering from the four cooling holes in
the hatch. The hatch is held on magnetically. Extra
white covering is provided to seal the edges of the
hatch and compartment.

o 5. LiPo battery compartments are located inside

the battery hatch. Since the recommended battery

APPLY THE DECALS

1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the
decals from the sheet.

2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily
fingerprints and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small
bucket with a mixture of liquid dish soap and warm
water–about one teaspoon of soap per gallon of
water. Submerse the decal in the soap and water
and peel off the paper backing. Note: Even though
the decals have a “sticky-back” and are not the water
transfer type, submersing them in soap and water
allows accurate positioning and reduces air bubbles
underneath.

3. Position decal on the model where desired. Holding
the decal down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the
water away.

30

o 1. Connecting batteries in “Series” means to

connect the +’s to the –’s and the –’s to the +’s. This
combines the batteries’ Voltages, but the capacity
remains the same.

o 2. Connecting batteries in “Parallel” means to

4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP

(STANDARD MODE 2)

ELEVATOR MOVES UP

RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP

LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN

RUDDER MOVES RIGHT FULL THROTTLE

connect the +’s to the +’s and the -’s to the -’s. This
combines the batteries’ capacities, but the Voltage
remains the same.

NEVER connect battery packs with different Voltages
in Parallel–only combine in Series. Otherwise, the
batteries will try to “equalize” with the larger one
trying to “charge” the smaller one, thus causing heat
and likely a fire.

Also NEVER connect battery packs with different
capacities in Series or in Parallel.

CHECK THE CONTROL DIRECTIONS

o 1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center

the trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from
the servos and reposition them so they are centered.
Reinstall the screws that hold on the servo arms.

o 2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check

all the control surfaces to see if they are centered.
If necessary, adjust the clevises on the pushrods to
center the control surfaces.

31

o 3. Make certain that the control surfaces and

the carburetor respond in the correct direction as
shown in the diagram. If any of the controls respond
in the wrong direction, use the servo reversing in
the transmitter to reverse the servos connected to
those controls. Be certain the control surfaces have
remained centered. Adjust if necessary.

SET THE CONTROL THROWS

Use a Great Planes AccuThrow™ (or a ruler) to
accurately measure and set the control throw of each
control surface as indicated in the chart that follows. If

your radio does not have dual rates, we recommend
setting the throws at the low rate setting for your first
few flights.

Note: The throws are measured at the widest part of
the elevators, rudder, ailerons and flaps.

These are the recommended control

surface throws:

HIGH RATE

ELEVATOR: 1-1/16" [27mm], 15° up

1-1/16" [27mm], 15° down

RUDDER: 1" [25mm], 15° left
1" [25mm], 15° right

AILERONS: 5/8" [16mm], 17° up
5/8" [16mm], 17° down

LOW RATE

ELEVATOR: 3/4" [19mm], 10° up
3/4" [19mm], 10° down

RUDDER: 5/8" [16mm], 9° left
5/8" [16mm], 9° right

AILERONS: 1/2" [13mm], 14° up
1/2" [13mm], 14° down

FLAPS

1/2 – 1" [25mm], 18° down
full – 2" [51mm], 36° down

IMPORTANT: To ensure a successful first flight, fly
your Cessna set up only according to the C.G. and
control surface throws specified in this manual. The
throws and C.G. are not arbitrary, but have been
determined through extensive testing and accurate
record-keeping. This provides you with the best
chance for success and enjoyable first flights that
should be surprise-free. Additionally, the throws
and C.G. shown are true, real data which will allow
the model to perform in the manner in which it was
intended when flown by a pilot of the skill level
for which it was intended. DO NOT OVERLOOK
THESE IMPORTANT PROCEDURES. A model
that is not properly set up may be unstable and
possibly unflyable.

BALANCE THE MODEL (C.G.)

At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly
condition with all of parts of the model installed in
place including the LiPo batteries (if applicable).

o 1. Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8" [3mm]-wide tape to

accurately mark the C.G. on the bottom of the wing
on both sides of the fuselage. The C.G. is located
4-5/16" [110mm] back from the LE of the wing.

This is where your model should balance for the
first flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by
shifting the C.G. up to 5/16" [8mm] forward or 5/16"
[8mm] back to change the flying characteristics.
Moving the C.G. forward may improve the
smoothness and stability, but the model may then
require more speed for takeoff and make it more
difficult to slow for landing. Moving the C.G. aft
makes the model more maneuverable, but could
also cause it to become too difficult to control. In
any case, start at the recommended balance
point and do not at any time balance the model
outside the specified range.

32

o 2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts

of the model installed (ready to fly) and an empty
fuel tank, place the model on a Great Planes C.G.
Machine, or lift it at the balance point you marked.

o 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and

the battery pack and/or receiver must be shifted
forward or weight must be added to the nose to
balance. If the nose drops, the model is “nose heavy”
and the battery pack and/or receiver must be shifted
aft or weight must be added to the tail to balance.
If possible, relocate the battery pack and receiver to
minimize or eliminate any additional ballast required.
If additional weight is required, nose weight may be
easily added by using a “spinner weight” (GPMQ4645
for the 1 oz. [28g] weight, or GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz.
[57g] weight). If spinner weight is not practical or is
not enough, use Great Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick­on” lead. A good place to add stick-on nose weight
is to the firewall (don’t attach weight to the cowl–it
is not intended to support weight). Begin by placing
incrementally increasing amounts of weight on the
fuselage over the firewall until the model balances.
Once you have determined the amount of weight
required, it can be permanently attached. If required,
tail weight may be added by cutting open the bottom
of the fuselage and gluing it permanently inside.

Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the
lead weight to permanently hold it in place. Over time,
fuel and exhaust residue may soften the adhesive
and cause the weight to fall off. Use #2 sheet metal
screws, RTV silicone or epoxy to permanently hold
the weight in place.

o 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add

any weight, recheck the C.G. after the weight has
been installed.

BALANCE THE MODEL LATERALLY

o 1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you

lift the model by the engine propeller shaft and the
bottom of the fuselage under the TE of the fin. Do this
several times.

o 2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model,

it means that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by
adding weight to the other wing tip. An airplane that

has been laterally balanced will track better in
loops and other maneuvers.

PREFLIGHT

IDENTIFY YOUR MODEL

No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club
site or if you fly somewhere on your own, you should
always have your name, address, telephone number
and AMA number on or inside your model. It is
required at all AMA R/C club flying sites and AMA
sanctioned flying events. Fill out the identification tag
on page 35 and place it on or inside your model.

CHARGE THE BATTERIES

Follow the battery charging instructions that came with
your radio control system to charge the batteries. You
should always charge your transmitter and receiver
batteries the night before you go flying, and at other
times as recommended by the radio manufacturer.

CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with
your radio system state differently, the initial charge
on new transmitter and receiver batteries should
be done for 15 hours using the slow-charger that
came with the radio system. This will “condition”
the batteries so that the next charge may be done
using the fast-charger of your choice. If the initial
charge is done with a fast-charger the batteries
may not reach their full capacity and you may be
flying with batteries that are only partially charged.

BALANCE PROPELLERS

Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers
before you fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single
most significant cause of vibration that can damage your
model. Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts
loosen, possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may
also damage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration
can also cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn,
cause your engine to run hot or quit.

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.

GROUND CHECK

If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer’s
instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in,

confirm that the engine idles reliably, transitions
smoothly and rapidly to full power and maintains full
power–indefinitely. After you run the engine on the
model, inspect the model closely to make sure all
screws remained tight, the hinges are secure, the prop
is secure and all pushrods and connectors are secure.

RANGE CHECK

Ground check the operational range of your radio
before the first flight of the day. With the transmitter
antenna collapsed and the receiver and transmitter
on, you should be able to walk at least 100 feet
away from the model and still have control. Have an
assistant stand by your model and, while you work

33

the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are
doing. Repeat this test with the engine running at
various speeds with an assistant holding the model,
using hand signals to show you what is happening.
If the control surfaces do not respond correctly, do
not fly! Find and correct the problem first. Look for
loose servo connections or broken wires, corroded
wires on old servo connectors, poor solder joints in
your battery pack or a defective cell, or a damaged
receiver crystal from a previous crash.

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Failure to follow these safety precautions may
result in severe injury to yourself and others.

Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high
heat, sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do
not smoke near the engine or fuel; and remember
that engine exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly
carbon monoxide. Therefore, do not run the engine

in a closed room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
operate engines.
Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.

Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or
sand; the propeller may throw such material in your
face or eyes.

Keep your face and body as well as all spectators
away from the plane of rotation of the propeller as
you start and run the engine.

Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing,
shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects
such as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of
shirt or jacket pockets into the prop.

Use a "chicken stick" or electric starter to start the
engine. Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller.
Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is secure
so that it will not pop off or otherwise get into the
running propeller.

Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating
propeller.

The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right
after operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good
condition so fuel will not leak onto a hot engine,
causing a fire.

To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing
off the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer's
recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any
other body part to try to stop the engine. To stop a
gasoline powered engine an on/off switch should be
connected to the engine coil. Do not throw anything
into the propeller of a running engine.

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)

Read and abide by the following excerpts from the
Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For
the complete Safety Code refer to Model Aviation
magazine, the AMA web site or the Code that came
with your AMA license.

GENERAL

1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events,
air shows, or model flying demonstrations until it
has been proven to be airworthy by having been
previously, successfully flight tested.

2) I will not fly my model aircraft higher than
approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport
without notifying the airport operator. I will give right­of-way and avoid flying in the proximity of full-scale
aircraft. Where necessary, an observer shall be
utilized to supervise flying to avoid having models fly
in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules
for the flying site I use, and I will not willfully and
deliberately fly my models in a careless, reckless
and/or dangerous manner.

5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with
my name and address or AMA number, on or in the
model. Note: This does not apply to models while
being flown indoors.

7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any
device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile
of any kind).

RADIO CONTROL

1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment
ground check before the first flight of a new or
repaired model.

2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless
assisted by an experienced helper.

3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must
be established in front of which all flying takes place
with the other side for spectators. Only personnel
involved with flying the aircraft are allowed at or in
the front of the flight line. Intentional flying behind the
flight line is prohibited.

4) I will operate my model using only radio control
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
Communications Commission.

5) I will not knowingly operate my model within

three miles of any pre-existing flying site except in
accordance with the frequency sharing agreement
listed (in the complete AMA Safety Code).

9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person
touch a powered model in flight; nor should any part

of the model other than the landing gear, intentionally
touch the ground, except while landing.

34

CHECK LIST

During the last few moments of preparation
your mind may be elsewhere anticipating the
excitement of the first flight. Because of this, you
may be more likely to overlook certain checks and
procedures that should be performed before the
model is flown. To help avoid this, a check list is
provided to make sure these important areas are
not overlooked. Many are covered in the instruction
manual, so where appropriate, refer to the manual
for complete instructions. Be sure to check the
items off as they are completed.

o 1. Fuelproof all areas exposed to fuel or exhaust

residue that are not already fuelproofed.

o 2. Check the C.G. according to the measurements

provided in the manual.

o 3. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely

mounted in the fuselage. Simply stuffing them
into place with foam rubber is not sufficient.

o 4. Extend your receiver antenna into the receiver

antenna tube.

o 5. Balance your model laterally as explained in

the instructions.

o 6. Use threadlocking compound to secure critical

fasteners such as the screws that hold the
wheel axles to the struts, screws that hold
the carburetor arm (if applicable), screw-lock
pushrod connectors, etc.

o 7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will

turn freely.

o 8. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
o 9. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA

where appropriate (servo mounting screws,
cowl mounting screws, etc.).

o 10. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct

direction and the throws are set up according
to the manual.

o 11. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the

clevises and that all servo arms are secured
to the servos with the screws included with
your radio.

o 12. Secure connections between servo wires and

Y-connectors or servo extensions, and the
connection between your battery pack and the
on/off switch with vinyl tape, heat shrink tubing
or special clips suitable for that purpose.

o 13. Make sure any servo extension cords you may

have used do not interfere with other systems
(servo arms, pushrods, etc.).

o 14. Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffler

with high temp RTV silicone, threadlocking
compound or J.B. Weld.

o 15. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and

are not kinked.

o 16. Use an incidence meter to check the wing for

twists and attempt to correct before flying.

o 17. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
o 18. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.
o 19. Place your name, address, AMA number and

telephone number on or inside your model.

o 20. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary)

and make sure it is fully charged.

o 21. If you wish to photograph your model, do so

before your first flight.

o 22. Range check your radio when you get to the

flying field.

FLYING

CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C
AIRPLANES): If, while flying, you notice an
alarming or unusual sound such as a low-pitched
“buzz,” this may indicate control surface flutter.
Flutter occurs when a control surface (such as an
aileron or elevator) or a flying surface (such as a
wing or stab) rapidly vibrates up and down (thus
causing the noise). In extreme cases, if not detected
immediately, flutter can actually cause the control
surface to detach or the flying surface to fail, thus
causing loss of control followed by an impending
crash. The best thing to do when flutter is detected
is to slow the model immediately by reducing
power, then land as soon as safely possible. Identify
which surface fluttered (so the problem may be
resolved) by checking all the servo grommets for
deterioration or signs of vibration. Make certain all
pushrod linkages are secure and free of play. If it
fluttered once, under similar circumstances it will
probably flutter again unless the problem is fixed.
Some things which can cause flutter are; Excessive
hinge gap; Not mounting control horns solidly; Poor
fit of clevis pin in horn; Side-play of wire pushrods
caused by large bends; Excessive free play in
servo gears; Insecure servo mounting; and one of
the most prevalent causes of flutter; Flying an over­powered model at excessive speeds.

the feel of the Cessna, takeoffs may be made with
the flaps set at 50%.

FLYING

We recommend that you take it easy with your
Cessna for the first several flights, gradually “getting
acquainted” with this realistic model as your engine
gets fully broken-in. Add and practice one maneuver
at a time, learning how she behaves in each. For ultra­smooth flying and normal maneuvers, we recommend
using the “low rate” settings as listed on page 31.
“High rate” elevator may be required for spins. Though
the full-scale Cessna 182 is not rated for aerobatics,
the Top Flite Cessna 182 ARF is capable of some
graceful aerobatic maneuvers. A beautiful barrel roll
may be accomplished by advancing the throttle to
full, then pulling the nose about 25 degrees above
the horizon. Apply about 3/4 aileron in one direction,
and let the Cessna 182 ARF roll 360 degrees without
touching any of the other controls. If the proper roll
rate is established, the wings should come back to
level with the plane in a 20° to 25° dive. Reduce power
and gently raise the nose to level flight. Loops are
easily accomplished, but you should reduce power
as the plane goes over the top to reduce stresses
and enhance realism.

LANDING

The Cessna 182 ARF is a great-flying model that
flies smoothly and predictably. The Cessna does not,
however, possess the self-recovery characteristics of
a primary R/C trainer and should be flown only by
experienced R/C pilots.

FUEL MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS

A fully cowled engine may run at a higher temperature
than an un-cowled engine. For this reason, the fuel
mixture should be richened so the engine runs at
about 200 rpm below peak speed. By running the
engine slightly rich, you will help prevent dead-stick
landings caused by overheating.

TAKEOFF

If you have dual rates on your transmitter, set the
switches to “high rate” for takeoff, especially when
taking off in a crosswind. Although this model has
good low-speed characteristics, you should always
build up as much speed as your runway will permit
before lifting off, as this will give you a safety margin
in case of a “flame-out.” When you first advance the
throttle the plane will usually turn left slightly. Correct
by applying sufficient right rudder to hold it straight
down the runway. When the plane has sufficient flying
speed, lift off by smoothly applying up elevator (don’t
pull it hard into a steep climb!), and climb out gradually.
Do not use flaps for your initial takeoff. After you have

35

35

When it's time to land, fly a normal landing pattern
and approach. The Cessna 182 ARF may bleed off
airspeed more rapidly than the sport planes you are
used to. For this reason, be prepared to carry a little
power during approach. For your first landings, plan
to approach slightly faster than stall speed and flare a
few inches off the runway onto the main wheels.

FLAPS

Full flaps make the Cessna 182 ARF very steady in
the landing pattern, but just carry a little extra power to
make up for the extra drag. The extra drag of the flaps
also allows you to make shorter, steeper approaches.
Like the full-scale Cessna 182, the Top Flite Cessna

182 ARF needs to touch down with a nose high attitude
to avoid whacking the nose gear and skipping back into
the air. For this reason, landings with flaps require a
deliberate flare with high rate elevator to raise the nose.
Touch and go’s and go-arounds can be accomplished
with full flaps. Just use the elevator to establish a
shallow climb. It is preferred to have the flaps up or at
“half” setting for takeoffs and climb-outs because the
plane will accelerate and climb much better.

Have a ball! But always stay in control

and fly in a safe manner.

GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!

Make a copy of this identification tag and put
it on or inside your model.

Cessna 182, Skylane, emblems, logos and body designs are trademarks
of Textron Innovations Inc. and are used under license by Hobbico, Inc.