Top Flite A0706 INSTRUCTION BOOK

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Top Flite Models Champaign, IL

Ph: [phone], Ext. 5

Fax: [phone]

[e-mail]

WARRANTY

Top Flite® Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and
workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use
or modification. In no case shall Top Flite’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled
product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is
advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

To make a warranty claim send
the defective part or item to
Hobby Services at this address:

Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime
telephone number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the
purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

Entire Contents © 2012 Hobbico, Inc. TOPA0706 Mnl

Hobby Services

3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822 USA

SPECIFICATIONS

Wingspan:

Wing Area: 1198 sq in [77.3 dm

Weight: 22– 24 lb

Wing

Loading:

Length: 73-1/4 in [1860mm]

Radio: 7–8 channel

Engine: 50– 55 cc gasoline only

85 in [2160mm]

[9980 –10880 g]

42 – 46 oz/sq ft
[128 – 140 g/dm

2

]

2

]

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Academy of Model Aeronautics . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

International Miniature Aircraft Association . . . . 2

Scale Competition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . 3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Engine Recommendations. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Radio Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Retractable Landing Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Required Hardware & Accessories . . . . . . . . . . 4

Adhesives & Building Supplies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Covering Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Optional Supplies & Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

MODEL INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS. . . . . . . . . . . 5

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

CONTENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

ASSEMBLE THE WINGS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Mount the Aileron Servos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Install the Flap Servos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Install the Aileron & Flap Pushrods . . . . . . . . . . 8

Mount the Retracts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Join the Wings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Install the Stabilizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Install the Elevator & Rudder Servos . . . . . . . . 14

Mount the Retractable Tail Gear. . . . . . . . . . . . 14

INSTALL THE ENGINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

ASSEMBLE AND INSTALL THE FUEL TANK . . . 20

INSTALL THE AIR RETRACT CONTROLS . . . . . 21

INSTALL THE COWL. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

APPLY THE FINAL DETAILS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Apply the Decals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Install the Propeller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Balance the Model Laterally. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Check the Control Directions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Set the Control Throws. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Balance the Model (C.G.). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

CHECK LIST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

PREFLIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Identify Your Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Charge the Batteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Ground Check & Range Check . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

AMA SAFETY CODE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Radio Control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

IMAA SAFETY CODE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

FLYING. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Fuel Mixture Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Takeoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Flight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Landing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Decal Placement Key . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Landing Gear Cover Template. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

Identifi cation Tag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

INTRODUCTION

In the late 1930’s the German Ministry of Aviation was

concerned that in the future the Allies would develop a

plane that was better than the Bf 109. They asked the
German airplane designers to design a plane to meet

this concern. The Fw 190 met these demands. The Fw
190 was considered one of the best German prop planes

of WWII. Top Flite developed the Giant FW 190A-3 ARF

to get you in the air quickly with a great looking model,

without the sanding and covering required to build a kit.

For the latest technical updates or manual corrections

to the Giant FW 190A-3 ARF visit the Top Flite web

site at www.top-fl ite.com. Open the “Airplanes” link,

then select the Giant FW 190A-3 ARF. If there is new

technical information or changes to this model a “tech

notice” box will appear in the upper left corner of the page.

ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS

If you are not already a member of the AMA, please
join! The AMA is the governing body of model aviation
and membership provides liability insurance coverage,

protects modelers’ rights and interests and is required

to fl y at most R/C sites.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Ph. [phone] Or via the Internet at:
Fax [phone] http://www.modelaircraft.org

IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you
can do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby
are to avoid fl ying near full-scale aircraft and avoid
fl ying near or over groups of people.

2

IMAA

The Top Flite Giant Fw 190A-3 ARF is an excellent

sport-scale model and is eligible to fl y in IMAA events.

The IMAA (International Miniature Aircraft Association)

is an organization that promotes non-competitive fl ying
of giant-scale models. If you plan to attend an IMAA
event, obtain a copy of the IMAA Safety Code by
contacting the IMAA at the address or telephone number
below, or by logging on to their web site at: www.fl y-

imaa.org/imaa/sanction.html.

IMAA

205 S. Hilldale Road
Salina, KS 67401

[phone]

SCALE COMPETITION

Though the Top Flite Giant Fw 190A-3 is an ARF and may

not have the same level of detail as an “all-out” scratch­built competition model, it is a scale model nonetheless
and is therefore eligible to compete in the Fun Scale
class in AMA competition (we receive many favorable
reports of Top Flite ARFs in scale competition!). In Fun

Scale, the “builder of the model” rule does not apply. To

receive the fi ve points for scale documentation, the only
proof required that a full size aircraft of this type in this
paint/markings scheme did exist is a single sheet such
as a kit box cover from a plastic model, a photo, or a
profi le painting, etc. If the photo is in black and white,
other written documentation of color must be provided.
Contact the AMA for a rule book with full details.

For more information and scale details of the full-size
Fw 190A-3, photo packs are available from:

Bob’s Aircraft Documentation

3114 Yukon Ave Ph: [phone]
Costa Mesa, CA 92626 Fax: [phone]

e-mail: www.bobsairdoc.com

IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF & OTHERS...

FOLLOW THESE IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

1. Your Giant Fw 190A-3 ARF should not be considered
a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that
functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because
of its performance capabilities, the Giant Fw 190A-3

ARF, if not assembled and operated correctly, could

possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and
damage to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as
doing so may result in an unsafe or unfl yable model.
In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from
the photos. In those instances the written instructions
should be considered as correct.

3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in good
condition, a correctly sized engine, and other components
as specifi ed in this instruction manual. All components
must be correctly installed so that the model operates
correctly on the ground and in the air. You must check
the operation of the model and all components before

every fl ight.

5. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not fl own
this type of model before, we recommend that you get
the assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club
for your fi rst fl ights. If you’re not a member of a club, your

local hobby shop has information about clubs in your

area whose membership includes experienced pilots.

6. While this kit has been fl ight tested to exceed normal
use, if the plane will be used for extremely high stress
fl ying, such as racing, or if an engine larger than one

in the recommended range is used, the modeler is

responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress

points and/or substituting hardware more suitable for

the increased stress.

7. WARNING: The cowl and landing gear covers included
in this kit are made of fi berglass, the fi bers of which may

cause eye, skin and respiratory tract irritation. Never blow

into a part to remove fi berglass dust, as the dust will
blow back into your eyes. Always wear safety goggles, a
particle mask and rubber gloves when grinding, drilling

and sanding fi berglass parts. Vacuum the parts and the
work area thoroughly after working with fi berglass parts.

We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top
quality, thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but
ultimately the quality and fl yability of your fi nished
model depends on how you build it; therefore, we
cannot in any way guarantee the performance of
your completed model, and no representations are
expressed or implied as to the performance or safety
of your completed model.

REMEMBER: Take your time and follow the

instructions to end up with a well-built model that
is straight and true.

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

This is a partial list of items required to fi nish the Giant
Fw 190A-3 ARF that may require planning or decision
making before starting to build. Order numbers are
provided in parentheses.

ENGINE RECOMMENDATIONS

When considering engines for this model, refer to the
engine size recommendations on the cover of the
manual. Spark-ignition “gas” engines are most popular
with large-scale warbirds such as this. One advantage of
a gas engine is economy – gas engines tend to consume
less fuel than a glow engine as well. Additionally, gas

engines deposit little exhaust residue on the model.
Among other engines, this model was test fl own with a
DLE-55 engine. The DLE-55 and the O.S.® GT55 both

provide more than adequate power and fl y the Giant
Fw 190A-3 ARF in a scale-like manner.

Note: Instructions for mounting every possible engine

cannot be incorporated into this manual. Modelers using
another engine may refer to the instructions as a guide
for mounting their engine in a similar way. If using the
DLE-55 engine, the stock muffl er will work well and is
recommended.

Hardware required (not included) to mount the
DLE-55 engine.

❍ (4) 10-32 x 1-1/2" Socket head cap screws
❍ (4) #10 Lock washers
❍ (4) #10 Fender washers

Per the IMAA Safety Code, magneto spark-ignition
engines must have a coil-grounding switch on the aircraft
to stop the engine and prevent accidental starting, The

switch must be operated manually (without the use of
the transmitter) and accessible by the pilot and assistant.

RADIO EQUIPMENT

The radio equipment and number of channels required

to fl y the Top Flite Giant Fw 190A-3 ARF depend on
the capabilities of your transmitter and how the servos
will be connected.

3

The Giant Fw 190A-3 ARF requires a servo to operate

the air control valve, a servo to retract the tail gear, a
servo to steer the tail gear, a throttle servo, two fl ap
servos, two aileron servos, two elevator servos and a
rudder servo. Servos with a minimum of 50 oz-in [3.9kg­cm] of torque are required for operating the elevators,
rudder, ailerons and fl aps. We recommend that metal
geared servos also be used. Standard servos may be
used for the throttle and choke (the servo operated
choke is optional). A micro servo is required to operate
the retract air valve. An optional servo-operated kill
switch may also be used (this is in addition to the IMAA­required, manually operated engine kill switch). A servo
operated kill switch is only really necessary for engines
that do not reliably shut off by closing the carburetor,
but could also serve as a backup.

Function Servos required

Elevators 2 (min. 50 oz-in torque)
(Futaba® S3305 FUTM0045)

Rudder 1 (min. 50 oz-in torque)
(Futaba S3305 FUTM0045)

Ailerons 2 (min. 50 oz-in torque)
(Futaba S3305 FUTM0045)

Flaps 2 (min. 50 oz-in torque)
(Futaba S3305 FUTM0045)

Tail Steering 1 (min. 50 oz-in torque)
(Futaba S3305 FUTM0045)

Tail Gear 1 (min. 50 oz-in torque)
Retract (Futaba S3305 FUTM0045)

Throttle 1 (standard)
(Futaba S9001 FUTM0075)

Retract 1 (micro)
(Futaba S3102 FUTM0034)

Optional 1 (standard)
Choke (Futaba S9001 FUTM0075)

Total 11-12 servos

A receiver battery with a minimum of 4.8V 2,400mAh is

recommended for fl ying the Giant Fw 190A-3 ARF. The
battery voltage should be checked before every fl ight
to be certain it has enough “charge”.

In addition to the servos, the following items (or similar

items) are also required. The order numbers shown in
parentheses are for Futaba servos.

❍ (4) 6" Y-harness for elevator, rudder/steering,

ailerons and fl aps (FUTM4135)

❍ (2) 12" [305mm] servo extension for fl aps

(HCAM2711)

❍ (2) 24" [610mm] servo extension for ailerons

(HCAM2721)

❍ (2) Heavy Duty switch harness (FUTM4385)

❍ (2) Ernst Charge Receptacle 124 (ERNM3001)

❍ (1) HydriMax™ 3600mAh NiMH battery

(HCAM6333) for receiver

❍ (1) HydriMax 1600mAh NiMH battery

(HCAM6308) for engine ignition

Note: The length and quantity of servo extensions and

Y-connectors may vary depending on the brand of radio

you are using and the radio installation.

RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR

The Top Flite Giant Fw 190A-3 ARF has been designed

for Robart pneumatic and electric main gear retracts
and mechanical tail gear. The tail gear on the full size
Fw 190A-3 did not retract fully into the fuselage. To
obtain the scale retraction of the tail gear, a mechanical
retract was used. Following is the complete list of items
required to install the Robart retracts:

❍ (1) Robart TFFW190 Top Flite Giant Fw 190

pneumatic retractable main landing gear
(ROBQ1658)

❍ (1) Robart TFFW190E Top Flite Giant Fw

190 electric retractable main landing gear

(ROBQ1657)

❍ (1) Robart #160 retractable tail gear assembly

(ROBQ2220)

❍ (1) Robart #157VRX Large-Scale Deluxe

Air Control Kit – includes pressure tank, air

line tubing, variable-rate air valve, T-fi ttings
(ROBQ2305)

4

❍ (1) Robart #169 10' [3048mm] red & purple

Pressure tubing (ROBQ2369)

❍ (1 pkg.) #190 Air Line Quick Disconnects

(ROBQ2395)

Note: An air pump will also be required to pressurize
the air tank. The Robart hand pump could be used, but

is not practical because of the large capacity of the
air tank in this model. A small, 12V electric pump is
recommended and can be purchased at any automotive
or hardware store.

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

REQUIRED HARDWARE & ACCESSORIES

In addition to the items listed in the “Decisions You
Must Make” section, following is the list of hardware

and accessories required to fi nish the Top Flite Giant FW

190A-3 ARF. Order numbers are provided in parentheses.

❍ (2) Dubro #813 1/8" Fuel Line Barb

(DUBQ0670)

❍ (1) Dubro #554 X-large Tygon Fuel Line

(DUBQ0427)

❍ (1) R/C foam rubber (1/4" [6mm] (HCAQ1000)

or 1/2" [13mm] (HCAQ1050)

❍ Propeller and spare propellers suitable for your

engine.

❍ (1) Painted Pilot (We used the 1/5 scale

German Pilot from Aces of Iron Productions)

❍ (1) 7/64" – 10" [254mm] long Ball-end Hex

Wrench

OR

❍ (1) 7/64" Ball-end Hex Wrench (GPMR8003)

plus (1) 5/32"  .014 Round Brass Tube K&S
#128 (K+SR2628) (See Page 35)

ADHESIVES AND BUILDING SUPPLIES

This is the list of Adhesives and Building Supplies that

are required to fi nish the Giant FW 190A-3 ARF.

❍ 1/2 oz. [15g] Thin Pro™ CA (GPMR6001)
❍ 1/2 oz. [15g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6007)
❍ Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
❍ Pro 6-minute epoxy (GPMR6045)

❍ Threadlocker thread locking cement

(GPMR6060)

❍ Mixing sticks (50) (GPMR8055)
❍ Mixing cups (50) (GPMR8056)
❍ Epoxy brushes (6) (GPMR8060)
❍ Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)
❍ R/C-56 canopy glue (JOZR5007)
❍ Milled fi berglass (GPMR6165)
❍ Masking tape
❍ Plan protector (GPMR6167) or wax paper
❍ Drill
❍ Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 5/64" [2mm], 3/32"

[2.4mm], 1/8" [3.2mm], 3/16" [4.8mm], 13/64"
[5.2mm], 1/4" [6.4mm]

❍ Small metal fi le
❍ Stick-on segmented lead weights (GPMQ4485)
❍ Silver solder w/fl ux (STAR2000)

™

❍ Hobby Heat
❍ #1 Hobby knife (RMXR6903)
❍ #11 blades (5-pack, RMXR6930)
❍ Curved-tip canopy scissors for trimming plastic

parts (HCAR0667)

Micro Torch II (HCAR0755)

COVERING TOOLS

❍ Top Flite MonoKote® sealing iron (TOPR2100)
❍ Top Flite Hot Sock™ iron cover (TOPR2175)
❍ Top Flite MonoKote trim seal iron (TOPR2200)
❍ Top Flite MonoKote heat gun (TOPR2000)

OPTIONAL SUPPLIES AND TOOLS

Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual
that will help you build the Giant FW 190A-3 ARF.

❍ 2 oz. [57g] spray CA activator (GPMR6035)
❍ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❍ CA debonder (GPMR6039)
❍ Builder’s Triangle Set (HCAR0480)
❍ Scale Warbird Template (TOPR2187)
❍ 36" metal ruler (HCAR0475)
❍ Hobbico® High Precision Diagonal Cutter 5"

(HCAR0630)

❍ Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0625)

❍ Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402)
❍ Switch & Charge Jack Mounting Set

(GPMM1000)

❍ Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510)
❍ Rotary tool such as Dremel
❍ Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel

(GPMR8200)

❍ Servo horn drill (HCAR0698)
❍ AccuThrow™ Defl ection Gauge (GPMR2405)
❍ CG Machine™ (GPMR2400)
❍ Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer (TOPQ5700)

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

● Anytime a sheet metal screw is installed in wood,

fi rst install the screw, remove the screw and apply a
couple of drops of thin CA in the hole to harden the
threads. After the CA has cured, reinstall the screw.

● Photos and sketches are placed before the step

they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in
following steps to get another view of the same parts.

● The Giant FW 190A-3 ARF is factory-covered with Top

Flite MonoKote fi lm. Should repairs ever be required,
MonoKote can be patched with additional MonoKote
purchased separately. MonoKote is packaged in six­foot rolls, but some hobby shops also sell it by the
foot. If only a small piece of MonoKote is needed
for a minor patch, perhaps a fellow modeler would
give you some. MonoKote is applied with a model
airplane covering iron, but in an emergency a regular
iron could be used. A roll of MonoKote includes full
instructions for application. Following are the colors
used on this model and order numbers for six foot rolls.

White (TOPQ0204)
CubYellow (TOPQ0220)
Flat Black (TOPQ0508)
Flat Olive Drab (TOPQ0510)
Flat Dove Gray (TOPQ0511)

● The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine

thrust angles have been factory-built into this model.
However, some technically-minded modelers may
wish to check these measurements anyway. To view
this information visit the web site at www.top-fl ite.com

5

and click on “Technical Data.” Due to manufacturing
tolerances which will have little or no effect on the way
your model will fl y, please expect slight deviations
between your model and the published values.

MODEL INSPECTION

Before starting to build, take an inventory of this model
to make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts
to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any

parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if
you need assistance with assembly, contact Product
Support. When reporting defective or missing parts,
use the part names exactly as they are written in the

instruction manual.

Top Flite Product Support

3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822

Ph: [phone], ext. 5 Fax: [phone]

E-mail: productsupport@top-fl ite.com

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS

Replacement parts for the Top Flite Giant FW 190A­3 ARF are available using the order numbers in the
Replacement Parts List that follows. The fastest, most
economical service can be provided by your hobby

dealer or mail-order company. Not all parts are available

separately (an aileron cannot be purchased separately,

but is only available with the wing kit). Replacement

parts are not available from Product Support, but can

be purchased from hobby shops or mail order/Internet
order fi rms. Hardware items (screws, nuts, bolts) are
also available from these outlets.

To locate a hobby dealer, visit www.top-fl ite.com and

click on “Where to Buy”. Follow the instructions provided
on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian or International

dealer.

Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services

by calling [phone], or via facsimile at (217) 398-

7721, but full retail prices and shipping and handling

charges will apply. Illinois and Nevada residents will also

be charged sales tax. If ordering via fax, include a Visa®
or MasterCard® number and expiration date for payment.

Mail parts orders Hobby Services
and payments by 3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
personal check to: Champaign IL 61822

Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed
in the Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card
or personal check only; no C.O.D.

If additional assistance is required for any reason
contact Product Support

by e-mail at or by telephone at

productsupport@top-fl ite.com [phone]

REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST

Order No. Description

TOPA1870

TOPA1871

TOPA1872

TOPA1873

TOPA1874

TOPA1875

TOPA1876

TOPA1877

TOPA1878

TOPA1879

TOPA1880

TOPA1881

TOPA1882

Wing

Fuselage

Horizontal Stabilizer

Rudder

Canopy

Cowl

Landing Gear Covers

Hatch

Tail Gear Cover

Decals

Cockpit Kit

Spinner 2 blade

Spinner 3 blade

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer
Fin = Vertical Stabilizer
LE = Leading Edge
TE = Trailing Edge
" = Inches
mm = millimeters
SHCS = Socket Head Cap Screw

To convert inches to millimeters, multiply inches by 25.4
(25.4mm = 1")

CONTENTS

9

13

17

18

19

4

20

29

26

27

1. Fuselage

2. Right Wing Half

3. Left Wing Half

4. Canopy

5. Left Horizontal Stabilizer

6. Right Horizontal Stabilizer

7. Rudder

8. Hinges

9. Vertical Fin Antenna Mount

10. Aluminum Stabilizer Tubes

11. Tail Wheel

12. Tail Gear Retract Cover

13. Fuel Tank

14. Engine Spacers

15. Throttle Servo/Rx Battery Tray

21

22

2

23

24

14

15

1

25

28

6

3

30

16. Cockpit Interior

17. Gun Covers

18. Wheel

19. Landing Gear Doors

20. Landing Gear Door Mounts

21. Guns

22. Forward Hatch

23. Cowl

24. Spinner

25. Plastic Fan

26. Cowl Ring

27. Fan Ring

28. Cowl Guns

29. Canopy Antenna Mount

30. Wing Dowels

8

5

12

11

7

10

16

17

19

18

6

ASSEMBLE THE WINGS

Important: If you remove all the parts from the plastic
bags, save the plastic bag the cowl comes in. The
bag will be used later when the cowl is installed.

Start with the left wing so the assembly matches the

photos the fi rst time through.

1. Lay a few paper towels on top of each other and cut

❏

them into small squares. These paper towel squares will
come in handy for wiping away excess epoxy throughout
the assembly process ( and will save you from wasting
whole paper towels).

be fl exing inward. If this is happening, don’t press down.
Simply let the heat of the iron shrink the covering. If
the wrinkles momentarily disappear, then immediately
reappear, the iron may be too hot, thus causing air

bubbles. Lower the temperature of the iron or use a
sharp #11 blade or pin to puncture several holes in the
covering, then reheat. The suggested iron temperature

is around 360 degrees F.

Fw 190 FACT

The Focke-Wulf FW 190 was designed by Kurt Tank
in the late 1930’s. It was used in a wide variety of
roles including fi ghter, fi ghter-bomber, and ground
attack. It was fi rst used on the Eastern Front in
Nov/Dec of 1942.

MOUNT THE AILERON SERVOS

1. Carefully remove the left aileron servo hatch

❏ ❏

from the wing by peeling off the masking tape holding the
hatch to the wing. Use a paper towel square dampened
with naphtha lighter fl uid or similar solvent to remove
any glue left behind from the tape.

When mounting the servo blocks on the bottom of the
servo hatch, make sure that the grain of the wood is
perpendicular to the hatch.

To increase the strength of the glue joint, use a T-pin
to prick holes into the gluing surface of the servo
blocks and the plywood servo hatch. Be careful not
to prick holes completely through the servo hatch
and covering.

3. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the two blocks to

❏ ❏

the bottom of the servo hatch over the embossed servo

block locations. Thoroughly coat the end of the blocks

and allow them to set for a few seconds to allow the

blocks to absorb the epoxy, then recoat the blocks. Use
clamps to hold the blocks to the servo hatch.

2. If necessary, use a covering iron with a covering

❏

sock to go over the wing, fl ap and aileron to remove
any wrinkles. The best method to remove the wrinkles
is to glide the iron over the covering until the wrinkles
disappear, then go over the area again, pushing down
on the iron to bond the covering to the wood. If the
wrinkles don’t disappear, the balsa in that area might

2. Install the rubber bushings and metal grommets

❏ ❏

in the aileron servo. Install a servo arm on the servo.
Position the aileron servo on the aileron servo hatch
cover as shown with the servo arm centered in the
opening. Set the two 3/4" x 3/4" x 3/8" [19 x 19 x

9.5mm] hardwood blocks over the embossed servo

block locations to check that the block locations are
correct. If not, mark the new location.

7

4. Once the epoxy has cured, remove the clamps.

❏ ❏

Place a 1/16" [1.6mm] spacer, such as a piece of

cardstock from a header card or a piece of paper

folded several times, under the servo and between
each mounting block. After the servo is installed the
spacer will be removed, providing adequate spacing
for vibration isolation.

5. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the blocks

❏ ❏

for the servo mounting screws. Mount the servo to
the blocks with the screws that came with the servo.
Remove the servo mounting screws and apply a couple
of drops of thin CA in each hole to harden the threads.

Allow the CA to fully harden. Then, reinstall the servos

and remove the spacer.

6. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the blocks at

❏ ❏

the two hole locations on the top of the hatch. Install
two #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] fl at head sheet metal screws to
secure the servo mounting blocks to the aileron servo
hatch. Use thin CA to harden the screw threads.

8. Use the string in the wing to pull the aileron

❏ ❏

wire through the wing.

9. Place the aileron servo hatch with the servo

❏ ❏

in the wing. Be certain that the hatch is positioned
correctly as shown. Secure the hatch using four #2 x
3/8" [9.5mm] sheet metal screws and #2 fl at washers.
Use thin CA to harden the screw threads.

10. Go back to step 1 and install the right aileron

❏

servo following the same procedure.

INSTALL THE FLAP SERVOS

3. Route the fl ap and aileron servo leads to the

❏ ❏

root of the wing and out the hole in the top of the wing.

INSTALL THE AILERON & FLAP PUSHRODS

Do the left aileron fi rst. Check that the hinges are
secure by pulling on the ailerons and fl aps.

1. Slide a silicone clevis retainer over a 4-40

❏ ❏

threaded metal clevis. Thread a 4-40 nut followed by
the 4-40 metal clevis, threaded 12 turns onto a 4-40
x 12" [304mm] metal pushrod. Attach the clevis to the
aileron servo arm 5/8" [16mm] from the center of the arm.

7. Connect a 24" [610mm] servo extension wire

❏ ❏

(not included) to the aileron servo. Cut a piece of the

included heat shrink tubing in half and slide it over the
servo connections. Shrink the tubing by applying heat.

1. Install the fl ap servos following the same

❏ ❏

procedure used to install the aileron servos. Note that
the fl ap servos face the same direction.

2. Connect a 12" [304mm] servo extension wire

❏ ❏

(not included) to the fl ap servo. Secure the extension to
the servo with a piece of heat shrink or electrical tape.

8

2. Position the control horn so that it is in line with

❏ ❏

the pushrod and over the plywood mounting plate. The

pushrod holes in the control horn should be aligned

with the hinge line of the aileron. On the aileron, mark
the four mounting holes. Remove the control horn and
drill a 5/64" [2mm] pilot hole at each mark. Do not

drill completely through the aileron. Attach the

control horn using four #4 x 1/2" sheet metal screws.
Use thin CA to harden the holes.

3. Install the metal solder clevis in the hole nearest

❏ ❏

the end of the control horn. Center the aileron servo
and aileron. Mark the pushrod where it meets the solder
clevis. Remove the pushrod and the solder clevis and
cut the pushrod ¼" [6.4mm] past the mark. Solder
the solder clevis to the pushrod using the techniques
described in the following Hot Tip.

HOW TO SOLDER

1. Roughen the end of the pushrod with coarse
sandpaper where it is to be soldered. Use denatured
alcohol or other solvent to thoroughly clean the
pushrod.

2. Apply a few drops of soldering fl ux to the end of
the pushrod, then use a soldering iron or a torch
to heat it. “Tin” the heated area with silver solder
by applying the solder to the end. The heat of the
pushrod should melt the solder – not the fl ame of
the torch or soldering iron – thus allowing the solder
to fl ow. The end of the wire should be coated with
solder all the way around.

3. Place the clevis on the end of the pushrod. Add
another drop of fl ux, then heat and add solder. The
same as before, the heat of the parts being soldered
should melt the solder, thus allowing it to fl ow. Allow
the joint to cool naturally without disturbing. Avoid
excess blobs, but make certain the joint is thoroughly
soldered. The solder should be shiny, not rough. If
necessary, reheat the joint and allow to cool.

4. Immediately after the solder has solidifi ed, but
while it is still hot, use a cloth to quickly wipe off
the fl ux before it hardens. Important: After the joint
cools, coat the joint with oil to prevent rust. Note: Do
not use the acid fl ux that comes with silver solder for
electrical soldering.

4. Slide a silicone clevis retainer over the solder

❏ ❏

clevis. Reinstall the aileron pushrod with the threaded
clevis attached to the control horn. Adjust the threaded
clevis so that the aileron is centered. Apply a drop of

thread locker to the threads of the pushrod behind the

clevis. Tighten the 4-40 nut against the clevis.

This is what a properly soldered clevis looks like
– shiny solder with good flow, no blobs and flux
removed.

9

5. Assemble and connect the fl ap pushrod following

❏ ❏

the same procedure. We installed the pushrod in the
outer hole of the control horn and the hole 5/8" [16mm]
from the center of the servo arm.

6. Return to step 1 and install the aileron and fl ap

❏

pushrods on the right wing.

Fw 190 FACT

The FW 190 was designed with a wide landing
gear which gave it better ground handling on
the rough landing fi elds used during the war.
The landing gear was also raised and lowered
electrically, whereas most fi ghters of that period
used hydraulic systems.

MOUNT THE RETRACTS

Install the left retract fi rst.

1. Trim the axle that is included with the Robart

❏ ❏

retracts to 1-5/8" [41mm] long. File a fl at spot at the end
of the axle. Insert the axle through the included 5-1/4"
[133mm] wheel. Slide the 4mm thick wheel spacer
onto the axle. Insert the axle into the retract. Apply
a drop of threadlocker to the 10-32 x 3/16" [4.8mm]
set screw, included with the retract, and tighten the
set screw onto the fl at of the axle. Make sure that the
wheel rotates freely.

2. Test fi t the retract unit with the wheel into the

❏ ❏

wing. Position the retract so the wheel is centered in
the wheel well. Adjust the strut position in the retract

body as necessary to achieve the correct spacing all
the way around the wheel.

3. Temporarily attach the retract to the wing with

❏ ❏

two 6-32 x 3/4" [19mm] machine screws. Extend the
retract. View the wheel from directly above. Rotate
the strut so that the wheel is parallel to the root of the
wing. Lock the strut in position by applying a drop of
threadlocker to the threads and securely tightening the

bolt at the top of the strut.

4. Double check that the wheel will fully retract into

❏ ❏

the wing. Extend the retract to make sure it does not

interfere with any part of the wing and that the retract

is operating smoothly.

5. Cut an 18" [457mm] piece of red pressure tubing

❏ ❏

and a 23" [584mm] piece of purple pressure tubing from
the tubing included with the Robart Air Control Kit (not

included). Connect the red tube to the front of the air
cylinder and the purple to the back of the air cylinder.

6. Connect both pressure tubes to the string in

❏ ❏

the retract bay. Guide the pressure tubing through the
ribs and out the hole in the top of the wing. Tape the

pressure tubing to the top of the wing.

10

7. Secure the retracts in the wing. Apply a drop of

❏ ❏

threadlocker to the threads of six 6-32 x 3/4" [19mm]
machine screws and #6 lock washers before threading
them into the retract plate.

8. Use a sharp hobby knife to remove the covering

❏ ❏

from over the fi ve mounting holes in the plywood retract
cover. Set the retract cover over the retract and drill a

1/16" [1.6mm] pilot hole using the holes in the cover

as a guide.

10. Snap three of the nylon landing gear door

❏ ❏

mounts onto the landing gear strut as shown. Center
the landing gear cover over the retract. Check that the

landing gear door mounts are aligned with the gear door.

12. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] pilot holes at the screw

❏ ❏

locations in the cover. Secure the landing gear cover

to the landing gear door mounts with six #2 x 3/8" fl at-

head sheet metal screws. Note that the landing gear

cover can be rotated on the landing gear strut. Once
the wing is installed on the fuselage and the orientation
of the wheels is checked and correct, the landing gear

door mounts can be secured to the landing gear struts
with a drop of thin CA.

13. Return to step 1 and mount the right retract in

❏

the right wing.

JOIN THE WING

Note: Keep the retracts in the retracted (up) position so

they do not extend and retract as you handle the wing.

9. Mount the retract cover to the wing with fi ve #2

❏ ❏

x 3/8" sheet metal screws and fi ve #2 fl at washers. Use

thin CA to harden the holes.

11

1. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the two 5/16 x 1-1/4"

❏

[8 x 30mm] wood wing alignment dowels 5/8" [15mm]

into the root of the left wing half.

2. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the two 3/8 x 1-3/8" [9.5

❏

x 35mm] diameter forward wing dowels in the leading

edge of the wing. The wing dowels should protrude
approximately 1/2" [13mm] from the wing.

of one wing half. Use your wire or dowel to thoroughly

distribute the epoxy, coating all surfaces inside the joiner
pocket. Coat the root rib and one half of the wing joiner

that goes into the wing. Insert the joiner in the wing.

5. Coat the joiner pocket of the other wing half and

❏

the other end of the wing joiner. Join the wing halves
together. Then, stand the wing on end with one of the
wing tips resting on the fl oor. Use a piece of R/C foam
or something similar to cushion and stabilize the wing
so it won’t slide around.

6. With the wing resting on end, use a paper towel

❏

dampened with denatured alcohol to wipe off any excess
epoxy as it squeezes out. Wrap the rubber bands around
the wing dowels and wing bolts. Add several strips of
masking tape to tightly hold the wings together as you
continue to wipe off excess epoxy as it squeezes out.
Be certain the leading edge and trailing edges of the
wing accurately align. Do not disturb the wing until the
epoxy has fully cured.

ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE

Note: To remove the forward hatch from the fuselage,

slide the hatch forward, then lift.

INSTALL THE STABILIZER

Give the elevators a pull to make sure they

are secure.

3. Test fi t the hardwood wing joiner in each wing

❏

half, making sure that both wing halves fi t together at
the root without any gaps. Trial fi t clamping the wing
together with rubber bands around the wing dowels
at the leading edge. Insert the two ¼ - 20 x 2" [51mm]
nylon wing bolts and stretch rubber bands around the
wing bolts on the top and bottom of the wing.

4. Read through the next three steps before

❏

mixing any epoxy. Gather everything required for gluing
the wing together including 30-minute epoxy, mixing
sticks, epoxy brushes, 12" [305mm] long dowel or wire,
denatured alcohol and paper towels. Remove the rubber
bands and separate the wing halves. Remove the wing
joiner. Mix 2 oz. [59.1cc] of 30-minute epoxy. Working
quickly, pour a generous amount into the joiner pocket

7. Join the matching air lines from each wing half with

❏

a couple of T-fi ttings that came with the air control kit.
Cut two 10" [250mm] pieces of air line (also from the
control kit) and fi t each line to the T-fi ttings. Connect one

quick-connector with an O-ring to one of the air lines
and one of the quick connectors without an O-ring to
the other line. This will prevent improper connection to
the quick-connectors on the air valve when mounting
the wing to the fuselage.

12

1. Test fi t the two aluminum stabilizer tubes in the

❏

fuselage and slide the stabilizers on the tubes. The

shorter tube goes in the front hole. If the aluminum tubes

are too tight to slide through the holes, take a sharp

hobby knife and gently scrape the inside of the holes.
During the manufacturing process a small amount of
resin or fi ller may be left behind in the hole.

2. Once you are satisfi ed with the fi t of the stabilizer

❏

halves, remove the stabilizer halves and the joiner tubes.
Use medium grit sandpaper to roughen up the aluminum
tubes. Clean the tubes with denatured alcohol and insert
both tubes back into the fuselage until the end exits on
the opposite side by approximately 1" [25mm].

3. Gather everything required for gluing the stabilizer

❏

halves to the fuselage including 30-minute epoxy, mixing
sticks, epoxy brush, 12" [304mm] long dowel or wire,
masking tape, denatured alcohol and small paper towel
squares. Mix up 3/4 oz. [22.1cc] of 30-minute epoxy.

Apply a generous amount of epoxy to the long side of

the aluminum joiner tubes. Pull the tubes through the
fuselage so that they are close to centered. Pour a small
amount of epoxy into both holes of one of the stabilizer
halves and using a dowel or wire, coat the inside of
the holes. Apply epoxy to the root rib of the stabilizer
and the fuselage. Insert the end of the aluminum tubes
with epoxy on them into the stabilizer and press the
stabilizer against the fuselage. Wipe off any excess
epoxy that may have squeezed out before it runs down
the fuselage. Quickly repeat the process on the other
side. Wipe off any excess epoxy with a dampened paper
towel and denatured alcohol. Use pieces of masking
tape to hold the stabilizer tight against the fuselage
until the epoxy cures.

Fw 190 FACT

The Focke-Wulf Fw 190 was designed so that
minimal trim changes were required at various
speeds. The ailerons and rudder did not require
adjustable in-fl ight trim tabs. Small, fi xed trim
tabs were attached to the trailing edge and were
adjusted during the initial fl ight. However, the
horizontal stabilizer was adjustable using an
electric motor. It could be adjusted from -3 to +5
degrees of incidence.

4. Without using any glue, install four hinges into the

❏

rudder. Note that the pivot point of each hinge must
align with the center of the leading edge. To achieve this
alignment, the hinges will be fairly deep in the rudder.
Also note that the hinges must be perpendicular to the

leading edge.

5. Again without glue, test fi t the rudder to the fi n.

❏

Move it left and right a few times to align the hinges. The

rudder doesn’t have to move very far, only 2" [50.8mm]

left and 2" [50.8mm] right measured at the widest part
of the rudder at the trailing edge. If there is too much
resistance, or if you are not able to move the rudder left
and right 2" [50.8mm], widen the gap slightly between
the rudder and fi n.

6. Remove the rudder and all the hinges. Add a

❏

small drop of oil to the pivot point on the hinges. This
will prevent the epoxy from adhering to the pivot point.
Make sure oil does not get on the gluing surface of the

hinge. If it does, clean the oil off with a paper towel

dampened with denatured alcohol.

7. Please read the complete instructions in this step

❏

before mixing up the epoxy. Mix up approximately ¼ oz.

[7.4cc] of 30-minute epoxy. Use a toothpick to thoroughly
apply the epoxy in the holes in the fi n and rudder. Use
the toothpick to get the epoxy out of the opening of
the holes in the rudder and fi n so it doesn’t get into
the pivot pin. Wipe away any excess epoxy around the
outside of the holes with a paper towel dampened with

denatured alcohol.

Use the toothpick to apply epoxy to the ends of the
rudder hinges that go into the fi n. Insert each hinge into
the fi n and wipe away any excess epoxy that squeezes
out of the hole.

Apply epoxy to the other end of the hinges. Join the
rudder to the fi n, pushing the hinges only about 3/4 of
the way into the rudder. Use a toothpick to wipe away
any epoxy that squeezes out. Then, fi t the rudder the
rest of the way on.

Move the rudder left and right a few times to align the

hinges and make certain that the rudder defl ects left
and right enough. Alloy the epoxy to cure, checking it
a couple of times while it cures.

13

INSTALL THE ELEVATOR & RUDDER SERVOS

1. Insert the three 4-40 x 48" [1220mm] metal

❏

pushrods in the elevator and rudder pushrod outer
pushrod tubes at the aft end of the fuselage. Install two
elevator and one rudder servo in the servo tray as shown.

#4 x 1/2" [13mm] sheet metal screws for the rudder
control horn and the front screws in the elevator horns.
IMPORTANT: Use #4 x 3/8" [9.5mm] sheet metal
screws for the aft screws in the elevator control horn.
Don’t forget to harden the holes with thin CA after fi rst

installing, then removing the screws.

4. Connect the receiver battery, rudder and elevator

❏

servos to the receiver. Switch on the transmitter and
center the servos. Install a single arm servo on each
servo, perpendicular to the centerline of the servo.

To obtain the required amount of rudder throw, a 3/4"

[19mm] servo arm was installed on the rudder servo.

Install a solder clevis on the rudder servo arm in the hole
3/4" [19mm] from the center of the servo arm. Follow
the same procedure that was used for the aileron and
fl ap pushrods. Mark the elevator and rudder pushrods
where they are to be cut for the solder clevises. One at a
time, remove the threaded metal clevis from the control

horn end, remove the pushrod from the fuselage, cut it
to the correct length and solder a metal solder clevis on
the end. Reinstall the pushrod inside the fuselage and

connect the solder clevis to the servo arms. Reinstall
the threaded metal clevis and 4-40 nut. Don’t forget

to use a silicone clevis retainer on all the clevises.

MOUNT THE RETRACTABLE TAIL GEAR

1. Remove the steering arm

❏

from the Robart #160 retractable
tail gear assembly (not included).

File a fl at spot near the top of

the shaft for the set screw in the
steering arm to lock onto. File a
second fl at spot near the bottom
of the shaft for the set screw in
the strut. Mount the strut on the
shaft with a drop of threadlocker
on the set screw.

2. Thread a 4-40 nut, threaded clevis and a silicone

❏

clevis retainer onto both elevator pushrods and the
rudder pushrod.

3. Mount the control horns to the elevators and

❏

the rudder following the same procedure used on the
ailerons, by drilling 3/32" [2.4mm] pilot holes and using

5. Install solder clevises on the elevator servo arms in

❏

the hole 7/16" [11mm] from the center of the servo arm.

14

2. Install the compression spring, included with the

❏

Fw 190, on the shaft, between the strut and the tail

gear frame. Compress the spring while tightening the

set screw in the steering arm.

3. Enlarge the hole through

❏

the 1-3/4" [44mm] tail wheel
with a #11 [4.8mm] or 13/64"
[5mm] drill. Install a 13/64"
[5mm] thick spacer (included
with the Fw190) on each side
of the tail wheel. Install the tail
wheel in the strut. Be sure to
apply a drop of threadlocker
to the two mounting screws.

4. Insert an .080 ball link

❏

ball in both holes of the
steering arm. Secure each ball
with a .080 nut and a drop of
threadlocker.

7. Use pliers to pull the cable from the fi rst loop to

❏

reduce the size of the second loop.

8. Now pull on the

❏

long end of the cable to
reduce the size of the
fi rst loop. Slip the loop
over one of the ball link
balls on the steering arm.

Tighten the loop until it is

small enough to remain
secure on the ball, yet
may still be pried off.
Squeeze the swage with
pliers. Connect the other
cable to the other ball
link ball the same way.

If your drill bit is not long enough to reach the rail nearest
the top of the fuselage, use medium CA to temporarily

glue a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill bit in a 1/8" [3.2mm] brass
tube. After drilling the holes, the drill can be removed
from the tube by heating the tube.

11. Mount the tail gear in the fuselage with four #6

❏

x 1/2" [13mm] sheet metal screws. Harden the screw

holes with CA.

5. Slide a small copper tube (called a swage) over

❏

one end of the .020 x 80" [.5 x 200cm] braided cables,
then guide the end of the cable back through.

6. Wrap the cable back around the swage and back

❏

through the swage.

9. Place the tail gear in the fuselage while

❏

simultaneously guiding the pull/pull cable through the
white plastic guide tubes.

10. Drill four 3/32" [2.4mm] holes through the rails

❏

for mounting the tail gear.

15

12. Install the tail wheel steering servo in the center

❏

of the servo tray. Remember to harden the screw holes
with thin CA.

13. Thread a 4-40

❏

nut and a 4-40 metal
clevis on to each
of the 4-40 rigging
couplers. Slide
a silicone clevis

retainer over each
clevis. Install the clevises on the steering servo arm in
the hole 3/8" [9.5mm] from the center of the servo arm.

16. Thread a 4-40 metal clevis 14 turns onto the

❏

threaded end. Attach the clevis to the tail gear retract arm.

19. Position the retract switch so that the gear is in

❏

the down position and lock the tail gear in the down

position. Install a 4-40 solder clevis on the servo arm.
Following the same procedure as before, mark and cut
the pushrod to length.

14. Center the servo arm and the tail gear. Install a

❏

swage on each cable, securing it following the same
procedure used on the tail gear. Use a pliers to crimp
the swage tightly on the cable.

15. Insert a 4-40 x 48" metal pushrod in the tail gear

❏

retract outer pushrod tube.

17. Install a 3/4" [19mm] servo arm on the tail gear

❏

retract servo. Install the servo in the aft servo tray so
that the hole 3/4" [19mm] from the center of the servo
arm is aligned with the tail gear retract pushrod.

18. Connect the servo to the receiver. Position the

❏

servo horn on the servo so that it moves approximately
the same distance both directions.

16

20. Remove the pushrod from the fuselage and

❏

remove the 4-40 threaded metal clevis. Reinsert the non­threaded end of the pushrod into the outer pushrod tube
from the servo end. Pull the pushrod out from the retract
opening enough to solder the 4-40 solder clevis on the

pushrod. Do not pull the pushrod all the way out. It will

be very diffi cult to insert the pushrod from the aft end.

21. Slide a silicone clevis retainer over the solder

❏

clevis. Connect the solder clevis to the tail gear retract.

22. Thread a 4-40 nut and then the 4-40 metal clevis,

❏

with the silicone clevis retainer, on the threaded end of
the tail gear retract pushrod. Connect the clevis to the

servo arm and check the operation. Apply a drop of
threadlocker to the pushrod and tighten the nut against
the clevis.

23. The tail gear retract cover can be permanently

❏

installed using CA glue or with screws. If CA glue is used
it will be diffi cult to remove the cover and access the
retract if needed. To install the cover with screws, tape
a piece of paper to the fuselage, fl ush with the edge
of the tail gear opening. Place marks 1/8" [3mm] from
the edge at the aft end, in line with the forward former
and in the center of the opening.

25. Remove the cover and enlarge only the holes

❏

in the cover with a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill bit. Attach the
cover to the fuselage with #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] sheet
metal screws and #2 washers. Harden the screw holes
with thin CA glue.

INSTALL THE ENGINE

1. The fi rewall has two sets of engine mounting bolt

❏

patterns embossed on it. The “+” are for the Fuji™ BT­43EI-2 gas engine and the “X” are for the DA-50,DLE-55
and O.S®. GT55 gas engines. If you are installing an
engine with a different mounting bolt pattern the fi rewall
also has crosshairs embossed on it to help locate the

correct mounting location.

24. Center the tail gear retract cover over the opening

❏

and fl ush with the aft end of the fuselage. Tape it in
place. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] pilot holes through the cover
and the fuselage at each mark.

26. On the full scale FW 190A-3 the tail wheel did

❏

not retract fully into the fuselage. The amount of throw
can be adjusted by the position of the servo arm on
the servo or reducing the throw electronically on the
transmitter.

Fw 190 FACT

The Fw 190A-3 used the air-cooled BMW 801 D-2
engine which produced 1,677 hp. It had a ceiling
of 34,775 ft (10,599 m), a range of 497 miles (800
km) and a top speed of 418 mph (673 km/h). To
help cool the engine a 12 bladed cooling fan was
mounted behind the propeller, just inside the
front of the cowl.

17

2. Drill a 13/64" [5mm] hole through the fi rewall at

❏

each of the appropriate locations marked with an “X”
or “+”. Also glue together the required number of motor

spacers and drill 13/64" [5mm] holes through them. For
reference, the distance from the front of the fi rewall to
the front of the drive washer is 7-1/4" [184mm]. The DLE­55 engine requires fi ve of the plywood engine spacers.

3. Insert four 10-32 x 1-1/2" [38mm] socket head cap

❏

screws, #10 lock washers and #10 Fender washers

(not included) through the holes from the backside of

the fi rewall. Slide the plywood engine spacers over the
screws. Apply a drop of threadlocker to the threads of
each screw. Thread the engine standoffs onto the screws
and tighten them against the plywood engine spacers.

4. If installing the DLE-55

❏

engine, install a 2-56 ball link
ball on the throttle arm
extension and secure it with a
2-56 nylon nut.

5. Remove the throttle arm

❏

from the carburetor. Using the
screw and nut supplied with the
throttle arm extension, attach
the extension to the throttle

arm. Again, use threadlocker on the threads.

8. Temporarily install the engine inverted on the

❏

aluminum standoffs. Determine on which side of
the fuselage the throttle and choke servos need to

be installed.

9. Glue the two plywood

❏

servo tray doublers to one
side of the throttle/choke
servo tray. Then, glue the
vertical servo tray support
over the doublers.

10. Install the throttle and choke servos in the servo

❏

tray. Remove the screws and servos and harden the
screw holes with thin CA. Do not reinstall the servos
until the servo tray has been installed in the fuselage.

12. On the opposite side of the fuselage, glue the

❏

receiver battery tray to the front of the cockpit former
and the aft fuel tank former.

6. Reinstall the throttle arm on the carburetor so that

❏

it is opposite the choke arm.

7. Install a 2-56 ball link ball on the choke arm and

❏

secure it with a 2-56 nylon nut.

11. Glue the throttle/choke servo tray to the front of

❏

the cockpit former.

18

13. Plug the throttle and choke servos into the receiver.

❏

Wrap the receiver in foam and secure it to the servo tray
with hook and loop material. To make the strap, overlap

by 1" [25mm] the hook material with the loop material.

14. Wrap the receiver battery in foam and use hook

❏

and loop material to secure it to the receiver battery tray.

15. Install the receiver switch and charge receptacle.

❏

We installed ours just below the receiver battery.

20" [500mm] long outer pushrod tube. Use medium
sandpaper to roughen the outer pushrod tubes. Clean
the tubes with denatured alcohol and insert the tubes

into the previously drilled holes in the fi rewall. Route
the tube through the slot in the former until it is fl ush
with the front of the fi rewall. Use thin CA to glue the
tube to the fi rewall.

17. Reinstall the engine on the standoffs using the

❏

bolts and washers supplied with the engine. Apply a

drop of threadlocker to each bolt before installing.

18. To make a throttle pushrod, thread a 2-56 x 1"

❏

[25mm] threaded rod approximately 3/8" [9mm] into the
end of the white inner pushrod tube. Thread a nylon ball

link socket onto the threaded rod. For the DLE engine,
trim the inner pushrod tube 10" [254mm] long.

19. Make a 1/2" [12mm] long L-bend at the non-

❏

threaded end of the 2-56 x 4" [102mm] metal pushrod.

Thread the other end 3/4" [19mm] into the end of the

throttle pushrod tube. The L-bend makes it easier to
thread in.

21. Position the throttle stick so that it is centered on

❏

the transmitter. Adjust the throttle servo arm so that it is

centered on the throttle servo. Move the throttle arm on

the carburetor so that the throttle is open approximately

half way. Mark the throttle pushrod where it crosses the

servo arm 5/8" [16mm] from the center of the servo.
Make a 90 degree bend at the mark and secure the
throttle pushrod to the servo arm with a nylon Faslink.

22. Now it should only require minor adjustments

❏

to the throttle endpoints on the transmitter so that the
throttle opens and closes completely. Be sure to also

set up a throttle cut switch on your transmitter to close
the throttle completely, stopping the engine.

16. Drill a 3/16" [4.8mm] hole inline with the throttle

❏

and choke ball link balls. You may fi nd it easier to
remove the engine before drilling the holes. Cut two
8-1/2" [216mm] long outer pushrod tubes from the

20. Cut off the L-bend from the 2-56 x 4" [102mm]

❏

pushrod. Insert the throttle pushrod into the throttle

outer pushrod tube. Attach the ball link socket to the

ball link ball on the throttle arm.

19

23. Install the optional, servo operated choke following

❏

the same procedure.

24. Glue the throttle and choke outer pushrod tubes

❏

to the former.

26. Install the on/off switch and the charge jack in

❏

the air tank tray.

27. Wrap the ignition battery in R/C foam rubber and

❏

connect it to the ignition on/off switch. We positioned
our ignition battery behind the fi rewall, using a couple
of sticks to hold it securely. Depending on the size of
your ignition battery, the location may vary.

ASSEMBLE AND INSTALL

THE FUEL TANK

one end of all three tubes. Insert the tubes into the

stopper with the metal plates, and then solder a barb
onto the other end of the two short tubes. Bend the vent
tube and connect the pickup and fueling/defueling lines
(not included) to the short tubes. Connect the clunks to
the lines and secure the lines to the clunk and brass
tubing with the small tie straps.

2. Install the fuel tank stopper assembly in the fuel

❏

tank. Check that the clunks move around freely in the
fuel tank. Tighten the fuel tank stopper screw. Mark the
top of the fuel tank (the side the vent tube is on).

25. Place the ignition module on a piece of R/C foam

❏

rubber and secure it to the top of the air tank tray with
four rubber bands. Route the battery wire for the ignition
module through the hole in the tray.

1. Assemble the fuel tank stopper assembly with the

❏

Tygon fuel tubes (not included) as shown. The easiest

way is to fi rst solder a fuel line barb (not included) onto

20

3. Position the fuel tank in the fuselage and determine

❏

how you want to run the fuel line. Drill holes where

necessary in the fi rewall for the line going to the

carburetor and the vent line. The third fi ll line can be
routed up through the air tank tray. Install an aluminum
fuel line plug in the fi ll line. Secure the fuel tank in the
fuselage with the rubber bands.

INSTALL THE AIR RETRACT

CONTROLS

1. Use epoxy to

❏

glue the two 5/16" x

1-3/4" [ 8mm x 44mm]

hardwood rails to the
fuel tank former and
servo tray former.
Use the embossed
marks on the servo
tray former to locate
the aft hardwood rail.

The forward hardwood

rail should be aligned
with the bottom of the
opening in the fuel
tank former.

2. Glue the retract servo tray together as shown.

❏

3. Test fi t the retract servo tray in the fuselage. It

❏

should fi t between the two hardwood rails. Drill a 1/16"
[1.6mm] pilot hole in the hardwood rails using the four
mounting holes as guides. Attach the retract servo tray
to the rails with #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] sheet metal screws
and #2 washers. Remove the screws and the tray and
harden the screw holes with thin CA.

4. Install the retract control valve in the plywood

❏

mount. Install a .080 ball link ball and .080 nut on the
valve. Be sure to use a drop of threadlocker on the
threads of the ball link ball.

5. Install the retract control valve servo in the retract

❏

servo tray and plug it into the receiver.

6. Cut off 1/2" [13mm] from the threaded end of the

❏

2-56 x 4" [102mm] metal pushrod. Thread the nylon

ball socket on the pushrod. Snap the ball socket onto
the ball link ball on the retract control valve. Center the

servo arm and mark the pushrod where it crosses the

servo arm. Make a 90 degree bend at the mark. Install
the pushrod in the servo arm and install a nylon Faslink.
Cut the pushrod 1/8" [3mm] past the Faslink. Reinstall
the retract servo tray in the fuselage with the #2 x 3/8"

[9.5mm] sheet metal screws and #2 washers.

7. Install a length of air line on the pressure tank.

❏

Secure the pressure tank in the cradle with a rubber

band. To prevent the tank from sliding, a couple of dabs
of silicone adhesive can be applied to the cradle.

21

the other end of the two air lines. Important: Check
the wing as to which quick connect to install on which
color air line.

10. A method used to mount servo wires and air line

❏

tubing to a structure is to cut a strip of rubber band.
Position the rubber band over the wires and glue the
ends of it to the structure.

INSTALL THE COWL

1. Using a sanding bar or block with coarse sand

❏

paper, sand a bevel around the edge of the plywood
fan ring. When properly sanded the ring should hold the

plastic fan tight against the front of the cowl.

8. Connect a T-fi tting to the air line and to the control

❏

valve. Connect a third air line to the T-fi tting, routing it
out the air tank tray. Install the fi ll valve to the third air
line and install the fi ll valve in the air tank tray.

9. Connect an 8" [203mm] long red and purple air

❏

line to the air control valve. Install quick connects on

Fw 190 FACT

The Fw 190A-3 came with two 7.92mm MG 17
machine guns in the cowl, two 20mm MG 151/20E
cannons in the root of the wing and two 20mm
MG FF cannons in the outer wing panels.

22

2. Use sand paper to roughen the back of the outer

❏

ring of the plastic fan. Clean the sanded area with a

paper towel dampened with denatured alcohol.

3. Center the plastic fan in the cowl opening. Apply

❏

a couple drops of thin CA to the joint between the fan
and the cowl to hold it in place.

4. Lightly sand the inside of the cowl around the edge

❏

of the plastic fan. Clean the area with a paper towel
dampened with denatured alcohol.

5. Apply a bead of epoxy to the back of the outer

❏

ring of the fan and the front and edge of the plywood
fan ring. Position the plywood ring on top of the plastic
fan. Place weight on the ring to hold it in position until
the epoxy cures.

See page 35 for instructions on how to make a

long 7/64" Hex-ball Wrench.

7. Attach the plywood cowl ring to the front of the

❏

fuselage with six 6-32 x 5/8" socket head cap screws,
#6 lock washers and #6 fl at washers.

9. Remove the cowl and the cowl ring. Cut a hole in

❏

the center of the plastic bag the cowl came in and slide
the plastic bag over the front of the fuselage so that it

covers the fi rewall. Reinstall the cowl ring. The bag is
to prevent glue from getting on the fuselage when the

cowl is glued to the cowl ring.

10. Sand the inside of the cowl where the cowl ring

❏

contacts the cowl. Then, clean it with a paper towel

dampened with denatured alcohol.

11. Mix up 1/2 oz. [4 drams] of 30-minute epoxy. Apply

❏

the epoxy to the inside of the cowl where it contacts the

cowl ring. Slide the cowl over the cowl ring, centering

it over the drive washer on the engine and aligning it

correctly on the fuselage. Use masking tape to hold it

in position until the epoxy cures.

6. Use epoxy to make a fi llet between the cowl and

❏

the edge of the plywood fan ring. For a stronger fi llet
milled fi berglass can be mixed with the epoxy.

8. Test fi t the cowl over the engine. The bottom of the

❏

cowl will need to be trimmed to fi t over the engine head.
For right now just get the cowl fan centered around the
engine drive washer and the cowl in the correct position

7-7/8" [200mm] from the back of the air tank tray.

23

12. Remove the cowl using the included long hex

❏

wrench. Use epoxy to make a fi llet between the cowl and

the front edge of the plywood cowl ring. For a stronger
fi llet milled fi berglass can be mixed with the epoxy.

13. Position the cowl back on the fuselage. Mark

❏

and trim the cowl from around the cylinder head and
muffl er. The stock muffl er included with the DLE-55
engine fi ts great inside the cowl. A Pitts style muffl er
can also be used.

APPLY THE FINAL DETAILS

2. Trim the two side panels. Note that the front of each

❏

panel will need to be trimmed to fi t past the instrument
panel. Install the decals on the side panels as shown.

See the decal key on page 34.

4. Apply the instrument panel decals to the plywood

❏

instrument panel backplate. Position the backplate

behind the instrument panel. Adjust the backplate,

sanding the edges, so that the instrument dials line­up with the openings.

1. Trim the cockpit fl oor along the edge so that it lays

❏

fl at. Use medium CA to glue the fl oor in the bottom of
the cockpit. The edge of the fl oor will need a notch cut
in it to fi t around the former.

3. Once satisfi ed with the fi t of the side panels in the

❏

fuselage, glue them in position. We found that using
canopy glue along the bottom and aft end of the panels
worked well. Then, use CA along the top edge to glue
the side panels under the lip.

24

5. Glue the instrument panel backplate to the back

❏

of the instrument panel. Apply the remaining instrument

decals to the front of the instrument panel as shown.
See the decal key on page 34.

8. Center and glue the armor plate to the back of

❏

the cockpit.

height of the seat as a guide. Glue the control stick in
the control stick boot.

11. Apply the “Attention” decal to the armor plate.

❏

6. To install the instrument panel, fi rst, insert the

❏

bottom of the panel face down. Apply glue to the back
of the panel, then rotate the panel into position.

7. Trim the edges of the canopy deck so that it fi ts

❏

fl ush with the sides of the fuselage. Glue the canopy
deck to the fuselage.

9. Sand the bottom center of the seat and the top

❏

of the seat pedestal. Clean the area with denatured
alcohol and glue the seat to the pedestal.

10. If you are installing a full body pilot, now is a good

❏

time to install him before the control stick is installed.
Cut the control stick to the appropriate length using the

25

12. Install the pilot bust in the cockpit. You will need

❏

to use a block to raise the pilot.

13. Wash the canopy in warm water. Then, dry it

❏

off. Place the canopy on the fuselage. Be certain it is

centered from side-to-side and mark the outline on the

fuselage. Use a T-pin to prick holes in the covering or
trim and remove the covering, just inside the outline.
Use canopy glue to attach the canopy on the fuselage.

14. Insert the guns in the wing and mark the joint

❏

between the wing and gun. Remove the guns and use
sandpaper to remove the paint behind the mark. Clean
the tubes with denatured alcohol and glue the gun
barrels in the wing with 6-minute epoxy. Position the
guns so that they are parallel to the wing root.

Note: We have found that on some FW 190A-3’s the
wing did not have the gun covers on the top. On others
only the two larger inner covers were installed and on
some all four covers were installed. Two large and two
small gun covers have been provided.

covers. Use a T-pin to prick holes in the covering or
remove the covering. Use canopy glue or epoxy to glue
the covers to the wing.

16. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the two 1-3/4" [45mm]

❏

guns in the cowl. The guns should be positioned in
the holes so that the top of the gun passes through by
approximately 1/32" [1mm]. Once the epoxy has cured,

position the cowl on its nose and apply a fi llet of epoxy

around the gun.

the front of the mount. Insert a piece of elastic thread
(not included) through the hole, make a knot on the end
and glue it inside the antenna mount. Glue the mount
to the top of the fi n using the same method that was
used to glue the canopy.

18. Trim the antenna mount for the top of the canopy

❏

leaving a 3/16" [4.8mm] lip around the mount. Use

sandpaper to roughen the bottom of the antenna mount.
Clean the bottom of the mount with denatured alcohol.
Drill a small hole in the mount, insert the elastic thread,
tie a knot and glue the thread to the inside of the mount.
Use canopy glue to attach the mount to the top of the

canopy, just behind the headrest.

19. Set the plane on its gear. From the front, view

❏

the plane from a few feet away. The wheels should be

straight. If not, loosen the bolt in the retract that secures
the main strut and adjust the wheels. Once satisfi ed,
retract the gear and adjust the covers so that they are
aligned with the bottom of the wing. Lower the retracts
and apply a couple of drops of thin CA to the joint

between the gear door mounts and the struts.

15. The gun covers are installed following the same

❏

method as the canopy. Draw the outline around the

17. Trim the vertical fi n antenna mount so that it sets

❏

fl ush on the leading edge of the fi n. Drill a small hole in

26

Fw 190 FACT

The Fw190s were modular designs. This permitted
parts of the plane to be built by different
manufacturers. All the parts could then be shipped
to one location and assembled. It also allowed
quick fi eld repairs.

APPLY THE DECALS

1. The decals are die-cut from the factory.

❏

2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily

❏

fi ngerprints and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket
with a mixture of liquid dish soap and warm water—about

1/2 teaspoon of soap per gallon of water. Submerse

one of the decals in the solution and peel off the paper
backing. Note: Even though the decals have a “sticky­back” and are not the water transfer type, submersing
them in soap & water allows accurate positioning and
reduces air bubbles underneath.

3. Position decal on the model where desired. Holding

❏

the decal down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the
water away.

4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to

❏

squeegee remaining water from under the decal. Apply
the rest of the decals the same way.

Please use the following pictures and the box top as a
guide for the decal placement.

27

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY

4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP (STANDARD MODE 2)

INSTALL THE PROPELLER

1. Carefully balance the propeller and any spare

❏

propellers. An unbalanced propeller can be the single
most signifi cant cause of vibration that can damage
the model. Not only will engine mounting bolts loosen,
possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may also
damage the receiver and receiver batteries. Vibration
can also cause the fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause
the engine to run hot and quit.

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes

Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our fl ight box.

2. The included aluminum spinner was designed to

❏

be used with the DA-50, DLE-55 and the O.S. GT55
gas engines. Drill the bolt holes through the propeller,
slide the spinner backplate, propeller and prop washer
on the engine prop shaft and install the prop bolts.

3. Install the spinner cone on the engine using an M5 x

❏

85mm socket head cap screw. Use a drop of threadlocker
on the threads. For a more realistic appearance Top
Flite also offers a 3-bladed spinner (TOPA1882) for the
3-blade Zinger prop.

BALANCE THE MODEL LATERALLY

1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you lift

❏

the model by the engine propeller shaft and the bottom
of the fuse under the TE of the fi n. Do this several times.

2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model,

❏

it means that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by

adding weight to the other wing tip. An airplane that

has been laterally balanced will track better in loops

and other maneuvers.

CHECK THE CONTROL DIRECTIONS

1. Switch on the transmitter and receiver and center

❏

the trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from
the servos and reposition them so they are centered.
Reinstall the screws that hold on the servo arms.

2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check

❏

all the control surfaces to see if they are centered. If
necessary, adjust the clevises on the pushrods to center
the control surfaces.

28

RIGHT AILERON

RUDDER

MOVES

RIGHT

FULL

THROTTLE

3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the

❏

carburetor respond in the correct direction as shown in
the diagram. If any of the controls respond in the wrong

direction, use the servo reversing in the transmitter to
reverse the servos connected to those controls. Be

certain the control surfaces have remained centered.
Adjust if necessary.

MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON
MOVES DOWN

ELEVATOR
MOVES DOWN

SET THE CONTROL THROWS

To ensure a successful fi rst fl ight, set up your Giant Fw
190A-3 ARF according to the control throws specifi ed
in this manual. The throws have been determined
through actual fl ight testing and accurate record­keeping, allowing the model to perform in the manner
in which it was intended. If, after you have become
accustomed to the way the Giant Fw 190A-3 ARF
fl ies, you would like to change the throws to suit your
taste, that is fi ne. However, too much control throw
could make the model too responsive and diffi cult
to control, so remember, “more is not always better.”

These are the recommended control surface throws:

1. Use a box or something similar to prop up the

❏

bottom of the fuselage so the horizontal stabilizer
and wing will be level. Hold a ruler vertically on your
workbench against the widest part (front to back) of
the trailing edge of the elevator. Note the measurement
on the ruler.

2. Measure the high rate elevator throw fi rst. Move

❏

the elevator up with your transmitter and move the ruler
forward so it will remain contacting the trailing edge.

The distance the elevator moves up from center is the

“up” elevator throw. Measure the down elevator throw

the same way.

LESS

Pushrod Farther Out

THROW

MORE

Pushrod Closer In

THROW

Pushrod Farther Out

MORE

THROW

3. If necessary, adjust the location of the pushrod

❏

on the servo arm or on the elevator horn, or program
the ATVs in your transmitter to increase or decrease
the throw according to the measurements in the control
throws chart.

4. Measure and set the low rate elevator throws and

❏

the high and low rate throws for the rest of the control
surfaces the same way.

If your radio does not have dual rates, we recommend
setting the throws at the high rate settings.

NOTE: The throws are measured at the widest part of
the elevators, rudder and ailerons.

Pushrod Closer In

LESS

THROW

HIGH RATELOW RATE

ELEVATOR

RUDDERAILERONSFLAPS

Up

5/16"

[8mm]

8°

Right

1-1/2"

[38mm]

19°

Up

5/8"

[16mm]

13 °

Down

5/16"

[8mm]

8°

Left

1-1/2"

[38mm]

19°

Down

5/8"

[16mm]

13 °

2"

[51mm]

35°

Up

7/16"

[11mm]

11°

Right

2"

[51mm]

27°

Up

7/8"

[22mm]

18°

Down

7/16"

[11mm]

11°

Left

2"

[51mm]

27°

Down

7/8"

[22mm]

18°

BALANCE THE MODEL (C.G.)

More than any other factor, the C.G. (center of gravity/
balance point) can have the greatest effect on how
a model fl ies and could determine whether or not
your fi rst fl ight will be successful. If you value your
model and wish to enjoy it for many fl ights, DO NOT
OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE. A
model that is not properly balanced may be unstable
and possibly unfl yable.

At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fl y

condition with all of the components in place including

the complete radio system, engine, muffl er, propeller,

spinner and pilot. The fuel tank should be empty.

29

5 -1/2" [139 mm]5-1/2" [139mm]

1. If using a Great Planes C.G. Machine™, set the

❏

rulers to 5-1/2" [139mm]. If not using a C.G. Machine,
use a fi ne-point felt tip pen to mark lines on the top of
wing on both sides of the fuselage 5-1/2" [139 mm]
back from the leading edge, at the leading edge “break”

(or inboard guns). Apply narrow (1/16" [2mm]) strips of

tape over the lines so you will be able to feel them when
lifting the model with your fi ngers.

This is where your model should balance for the
fi rst fl ights. Later, you may experiment by shifting
the C.G. 1/8" [4 mm] forward or 1/8" [4mm] back to
change the fl ying characteristics. Moving the C.G.
forward will improve the smoothness and stability,
but the model will then be less aerobatic (which
may be fi ne for less-experienced pilots). Moving the
C.G. aft makes the model more maneuverable and
aerobatic for experienced pilots. In any case, start at
the recommended balance point and do not at any
time balance the model outside the specifi ed range.

2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts

❏

of the model installed (ready to fl y) and an empty fuel

tank, place the model upside-down on a Great Planes
CG Machine, or lift it upside-down at the balance point
you marked.

3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy.” If the nose

❏

drops, the model is “nose heavy.” Use Great Planes

“stick-on” lead (GPMQ4485) to balance the plane. To fi nd

out how much weight is required, place incrementally

increasing amounts of weight on the bottom of the

fuselage over the location where it would be mounted

inside until the model balances. A good place to add
stick-on nose weight is to the fi rewall. Do not attach
weight to the cowl—this will cause stress on the cowl
and could cause the cowl ring to break loose from the
cowl. Note: The manufacturer has already installed
some weight on the fi rewall. If the plane is nose heavy,
start by removing some of the pre-installed nose weight

before adding tail weight. Once you have determined

if additional weight needs to be installed, it can be

permanently attached.

Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the lead
weight to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel
vibration and exhaust residue may soften the adhesive
and cause the weight to fall off. Instead, permanently
attach the weight with glue or screws.

Note: It is highly recommended that with gas powered

planes the ignition system and all its components be
separated from the radio system components by at least

10" [254mm] to prevent ignition noise from interfering

with the radio system. If the plane is tail heavy, do not
move the receiver battery forward closer to the ignition
system. If the plane is nose heavy, do not move the

ignition battery aft closer to the receiver.

4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add

❏

any weight, recheck the C.G. after the weight has been

installed.

30

CHECK LIST

During the last few moments of preparation your mind
may be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the
fi rst fl ight. Because of this, you may be more likely to
overlook certain checks and procedures that should
be performed before the model is fl own. To help avoid
this, a check list is provided to make sure these
important areas are not overlooked. Many are covered
in the instruction manual, so where appropriate, refer
to the manual for complete instructions. Be sure to
check the items off as they are completed (that’s why
it’s called a check list!).

1. Fuelproof all areas exposed to fuel or exhaust

❏

residue such as the cowl ring, wing saddle area, etc.

2. Check the C.G. according to the measurements

❏

provided in the manual.

3. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely

❏

mounted in the fuse. Simply stuffi ng them into place

with foam rubber is not suffi cient.

4. If you still fl y on 72MHz, extend your receiver

❏

antenna and make sure it has a strain relief inside the
fuselage to keep tension off the solder joint inside the
receiver.

5. Balance your model laterally as explained in the

❏

instructions.

6. Use threadlocking compound to secure critical

❏

fasteners such as the set screws that hold the wheel
axles to the struts, screws that hold the carburetor arm
(if applicable), engine bolts, etc.

7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will

❏

turn freely.

8. Give the control surfaces a quick tug to make sure

❏

all hinges are securely glued in place.

9. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA

❏

where appropriate (servo mounting screws, aileron

hatches, etc.).

10. Confi rm that all controls operate in the correct

❏

direction and the throws are set up according to the
manual. Checking the direction should be performed

before every fl ight. With computer radios it is easy to
mistakenly change the model.

11. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the

❏

clevises and that all servo arms are secured to the
servos with the screws included with your radio.

12. Secure connections between servo wires and

❏

Y-connectors or servo extensions, and the connection

between your battery pack and the on/off switch with
vinyl tape, heat shrink tubing or special clips suitable
for that purpose.

13. Make sure any servo extension cords and air lines

❏

you may have used do not interfere with other systems
(servo arms, pushrods, etc.).

14. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are

❏

not kinked.

15. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).

❏

16. Check that the spinner bolt is tight.

❏

17. Place your name, address, AMA number and

❏

telephone number on or inside your model. This is an

AMA rule.

18. Cycle your receiver and ignition battery pack (if

❏

necessary) and make sure it is fully charged.

19. If you wish to photograph your model, do so

❏

before your fi rst fl ight.

20. Range check your radio when you get to the

❏

fl ying fi eld.

PREFLIGHT

IDENTIFY YOUR MODEL

No matter if you fl y at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site
or if you fl y somewhere on your own, you should always
have your name, address, telephone number and AMA
number on or inside your model. It is required at all

AMA R/C club fl ying sites and AMA sanctioned fl ying

events. Fill out the identifi cation tag on page 35 and
place it on or inside your model.

CHARGE THE BATTERIES

Follow the battery charging instructions that came with

your radio control system to charge the batteries. You

should always charge your transmitter and receiver

batteries the night before you go fl ying, and at other
times as recommended by the radio manufacturer.

CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with
your radio system state differently, the initial charge
on new transmitter and receiver batteries should
be done for 15 hours using the slow-charger that
came with the radio system. This will “condition” the
batteries so that the next charge may be done using
the fast-charger of your choice. If the initial charge is
done with a fast-charger the batteries may not reach
their full capacity and you may be fl ying with batteries
that are only partially charged.

GROUND CHECK AND RANGE CHECK

Run the engine for a few minutes to make sure it idles
reliably, transitions smoothly and maintains full power

indefi nitely. Afterward, shut the engine off and inspect
the model closely, making sure all fasteners, pushrods
and connections have remained tight and the hinges
are secure. Always ground check the operational range
of your radio before the fi rst fl ight of the day following
the manufacturer’s instructions that came with your
radio. This should be done once with the engine off
and once with the engine running at various speeds. If
the control surfaces do not respond correctly, do not
fl y! Find and correct the problem fi rst. Look for loose
servo connections or broken wires, corroded wires on
old servo connectors, poor solder joints in your battery

pack or a defective cell, or a damaged receiver crystal
from a previous crash.

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Failure to follow these safety precautions may
result in severe injury to yourself and others.

Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high
heat, sparks or fl ames, as fuel is very fl ammable. Do
not smoke near the engine or fuel; and remember that
engine exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly carbon
monoxide. Therefore do not run the engine in a closed
room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
operate engines.

Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.

Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the
engine. If you do fl ip the propeller with your fi ngers,
wear a heavy leather glove, such as a welders glove.
When hand starting gas engines, if the engine should

backfi re, the large prop can cause severe injury to your
hand and fi ngers.

Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or

sand; the propeller may throw such material in your

face or eyes.

Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away
from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start
and run the engine.

Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing,

shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such

as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or

jacket pockets into the prop.

Stop the engine before making any engine adjustments.

The engine and muffl er get hot! Do not touch them

during or right after operation. Make sure fuel lines are
in good condition so fuel will not leak onto a hot engine,
causing a fi re.

To stop a gasoline powered engine an on/off switch

must be connected to the engine ignition. Do not throw

anything into the propeller of a running engine.

AMA SAFETY CODE

Read and abide by the following excerpts from the
Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For the

complete Safety Code refer to Model Aviation magazine,
the AMA web site or the Code that came with your
AMA license.

GENERAL

1) I will not fl y my model aircraft in sanctioned events,
air shows, or model fl ying demonstrations until it has

been proven to be airworthy by having been previously,
successfully fl ight tested.

31

2) I will not fl y my model aircraft higher than approximately

400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the

airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid fl ying
in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary,
an observer shall be utilized to supervise fl ying to avoid
having models fl y in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for
the fl ying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately
fl y my models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous
manner.

5) I will not fl y my model unless it is identifi ed with my
name and address or AMA number, on or in the model.
Note: This does not apply to models while being fl own
indoors.

7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).

RADIO CONTROL

1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment
ground check before the fi rst fl ight of a new or repaired
model.

2) I will not fl y my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualifi ed fl ier, unless assisted
by an experienced helper.

3) At all fl ying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all fl ying takes place with
the other side for spectators. Only personnel involved
with fl ying the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of
the fl ight line. Intentional fl ying behind the fl ight line is
prohibited.

4) I will operate my model using only radio control
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
Communications Commission.

5) I will not knowingly operate my model within

three miles of any pre-existing fl ying site except in
accordance with the frequency sharing agreement
listed [in the complete AMA Safety Code].

9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person
touch a powered model in fl ight; nor should any part of

the model other than the landing gear, intentionally
touch the ground, except while landing.

Since the Giant FW 190A-3 ARF qualifi es as a “giant
scale’ model and is therefore eligible to fl y in IMAA

events, we’ve printed excerpts from the IMAA Safety

Code which follows.

IMAA SAFETY CODE

DEFINITION: For the purpose of the following IMAA
Safety Code, the term Giant Scale shall refer to radio
controlled model aircraft, either scale or non-scale, which
have a wingspan of 80 inches [2032mm] or more for
monoplanes and 60 inches [1524mm] or more for multi­winged model aircraft and have a ramp weight (fueled
and ready to fl y) of 55lbs. [24.75kg.] or less.

Section 1.0: Safety Standard

1.1 Adherence to Code: This safety code is to be strictly
followed.

1.2 The most current AMA Safety Code in effect is to
be observed. However, the competition sections of
the code may be disregarded.

Section 3.0 Safety Check

3.4 Flight Testing: All Giant Scale R/C aircraft are to
have been fl ight tested and fl ight trimmed with a
minimum of six fl ights before the model is allowed
to fl y at an IMAA Sanctioned event.

3.5 Proof of Flight: The completing and signing of the
Declaration section of the Safety Inspection form
by the pilot (or owner) shall document as fact that
each aircraft has been successfully fl ight-tested
and proven airworthy prior to an IMAA event.

Section 5.0: Emergency Engine Shut Off (Kill Switch)

5.1 All magneto spark ignition engines must have a
coil grounding switch on the aircraft to stop the
engine. This will also prevent accidental starting of
the engine. This switch shall be readily available to
both pilot and helper. This switch is to be operated
manually and without the use of the radio system.

5.2 Engine with battery power ignition systems must
have a switch to turn off the power from the battery
pack to disable the engine from fi ring. This will also
prevent accidental starting of the engine. This switch
shall be readily available to both pilot and helper.

This switch shall be operated manually and without

the use of the radio system.

32

5.3 There must also be a means to stop the engine
from the transmitter. The most common method
is to close the carburetor throat completely using
throttle trim. However, other methods are acceptable.

This requirement applies to all glow/gas ignition

engines regardless of size.

Section 6.0: Radio Requirements

6.1 All transmitters must be FCC type certifi ed.

6.2 FCC Technician or high-class license required for
6 meter band operation only.

Additional IMAA General Recommendations

The following recommendations are included in the

Safety Code not to police such items, but rather to offer

basic suggestions for enhanced safety.

Servos need to be of a rating capable to handle the

loads that the control surfaces impose upon the servos.

Standard servos are not recommended for control

surfaces. Servos should be rated heavy-duty. For fl ight-

critical control functions a minimum of 45 inch/ounces of
torque should be considered. This should be considered
a minimum for smaller aircraft and higher torque servos
are strongly encouraged for larger aircraft. The use of
one servo for each aileron and one for each elevator

half is strongly recommended. Use of dual servos is
also recommended for larger aircraft.

On-board batteries shall be 1000 mAh up to 20 lbs.,

1200 mAh to 30 lbs., 1800 mAh to 40 lbs. and 2000

mAh over 40 lbs. fl ying weight. The number and size
of the servos, size and loads on control surfaces, and
added features should be considered as an increase
to these minimums. Batteries should be able to sustain

power to the onboard radio components for a minimum
of one hour total fl ying time before recharging.

Both redundant and fail-safe battery systems are
recommended.

There is no minimum engine displacement limit, as

it is the position of this body that an underpowered
aircraft presents a greater danger than an overpowered
aircraft. However, the selection of engine size relative
to airframe strength and power loading mandates good

discretionary judgment by the designer and builder.

Current AMA maximums for engine displacement are

6.0 cu. in. for two-stroke and 9.6 cu. in. for four-stroke
engine. These maximums apply only to AMA Sanctions
concerning competition events (such as 511, 512, 515
and 520) and, as such, the maximums apply. All IMAA

(non competition) events should be sanctioned as Class

“C” events, in which these engine size maximums do

not apply.

Generally, it is recommended that no attempt should

be made to fl y a radio controlled model aircraft with
a gasoline engine in which the model aircraft weight
would exceed twelve (12) pounds (underpowered) per
cubic inch of engine displacement, or be less than fi ve

(5) pounds (overpowered) per cubic inch of engine

displacement. Example: Using a 3 cu. in. engine, a
model would likely be underpowered at an aircraft
weight greater than 36 pounds. With the same engine,
an aircraft weighing less than 15 pounds would likely
be overpowered.

Servo arms and wheels should be rated heavy duty.
Glass-fi lled servo arms and control horns are highly

recommended.

Propeller tips should be painted or colored in a visible
and contrasting manner so as to increase the visibility
of the propeller tip arc.

FLYING

The Giant FW 190A-3 ARF is a great-fl ying model that

fl ies smoothly and predictably. The Giant FW 190A-3

ARF does not, however, possess the self-recovery

characteristics of a primary R/C trainer and should be
fl own only by experienced R/C pilots.

FUEL MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS

A fully cowled engine may run at a higher temperature

than an un-cowled engine. For this reason, the fuel
mixture should be richened so the engine runs at about
200 rpm below peak speed. By running the engine
slightly rich, you will help prevent dead-stick landings
caused by overheating.

CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES):
If, while fl ying, you notice an alarming or unusual
sound such as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate
control surface fl utter. Flutter occurs when a control
surface (such as an aileron or elevator) or a fl ying
surface (such as a wing or stab) rapidly vibrates up
and down (thus causing the noise). In extreme cases,
if not detected immediately, fl utter can actually cause
the control surface to detach or the fl ying surface
to fail, thus causing loss of control followed by an
impending crash. The best thing to do when fl utter
is detected is to slow the model immediately by
reducing power, then land as soon as safely possible.
Identify which surface fl uttered (so the problem may
be resolved) by checking all the servo grommets
for deterioration or signs of vibration. Make certain
all pushrod linkages are secure and free of play. If
it fl uttered once, under similar circumstances it will
probably fl utter again unless the problem is fi xed.
Some things which can cause fl utter are; Excessive
hinge gap; Not mounting control horns solidly; Poor
fi t of clevis pin in horn; Side-play of wire pushrods
caused by large bends; Excessive free play in servo
gears; Insecure servo mounting; and one of the most
prevalent causes of fl utter; Flying an over-powered
model at excessive speeds.

TAKEOFF

Before you get ready to takeoff, see how the model
handles on the ground by doing a few practice runs at

low speeds on the runway. Hold “up” elevator to keep
the tail wheel on the ground. If necessary, adjust the tail
wheel so the model will roll straight down the runway. If
you need to calm your nerves before the maiden fl ight,
shut the engine down and bring the model back into
the pits. Top off the fuel, then check all fasteners and
control linkages for peace of mind.

Remember to takeoff into the wind. When you’re ready,

point the model straight down the runway, hold a bit of
up elevator to keep the tail on the ground to maintain tail
wheel steering, then gradually advance the throttle. As
the model gains speed, decrease up elevator allowing
the tail to come off the ground. One of the most important

things to remember with a tail dragger is to always be
ready to apply right rudder to counteract engine torque.
Gain as much speed as your runway and fl ying site will

practically allow before gently applying up elevator, lifting
the model into the air. At this moment it is likely that
you will need to apply more right rudder to counteract
engine torque. Be smooth on the elevator stick, allowing
the model to establish a gentle climb to a safe altitude

before turning into the traffi c pattern.

FLIGHT

For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffi c, it

is a good idea to have an assistant on the fl ight line
with you. Tell him to remind you to throttle back once the

plane gets to a comfortable altitude. While full throttle

is usually desirable for takeoff, most models fl y more

smoothly at reduced speeds.

Take it easy with the Giant FW 190A-3 ARF for the fi rst

few fl ights, gradually getting acquainted with it as you

gain confi dence. Adjust the trims to maintain straight and

level fl ight. After fl ying around for a while, and while still
at a safe altitude with plenty of fuel, practice slow fl ight
and execute practice landing approaches by reducing
the throttle and lowering the fl aps to see how the model

handles at slower speeds. Add power to see how she

climbs as well. Continue to fl y around, executing various

maneuvers and making mental notes (or having your
assistant write them down) of what trim or C.G. changes

may be required to fi ne tune the model so it fl ies the way
you like. Mind your fuel level, but use this fi rst fl ight to

become familiar with your model before landing.

LANDING

One of the keys to landing a giant-scale model is to

maintain suffi cient airspeed throughout the landing
approach. An unusually high airspeed is not necessary,

but those unfamiliar with landing giant-scale models are

sometimes deceived by the model’s larger size. Larger

models often appear to be closer than they actually are.
Additionally, most giant-scale models slow down rapidly,
thus causing the uninitiated to land short. To avoid this

initial illusion, make your landing pattern closer than you

normally might for a .40-size sport model. Also, don’t

pull the throttle all the way back and leave it there the

33

way you normally would. Instead, momentarily pull the
throttle all the way back, but then advance it a “click” or
two to keep the engine RPM up and maintain airspeed.
Once over the runway you can cut the throttle the rest
of the way and the model will slow for the landing fl are.

The Giant FW 190A-3 ARF may be landed with or without

fl aps. Flaps increase lift and drag, so the plane may be
landed slower, thus reducing rollout after touchdown

(not as much of a factor on grass runways). To initiate

a landing approach, lower the throttle while on the
downwind leg. If using fl aps, allow the model to slow
before extending them. Continue to lose altitude, but
maintain airspeed by keeping the nose down as you
turn onto the crosswind leg. Make your fi nal turn toward
the runway (into the wind) keeping the nose down to
maintain airspeed and control. If using fl aps, keep a few
additional “clicks” of power so the model doesn’t slow
too much. Level the attitude when the model reaches the
runway threshold, modulating the throttle as necessary
to maintain your glide path and airspeed. If you are going

to overshoot, smoothly advance the throttle (always
ready on the right rudder to counteract torque) and
retract the fl aps when enough airspeed is gained. Climb
out to make another attempt. When the model is a foot
or so off the deck, smoothly increase up elevator until it
gently touches down. Once the model is on the runway
and has lost fl ying speed, hold up elevator to place the
tail on the ground, regaining tail wheel control.

Note: If ever the occasion arises when a dead-stick

landing must be performed, do not extend the fl aps until
certain the model will be able to reach the landing zone
(on dead-stick landings it is common to land with no fl aps
at all). Without engine power, fl aps can unexpectedly
reduce the model’s range, thus causing you to come
up short of the fi eld.

One fi nal note about fl ying your Giant FW 190A-3
ARF. Have a goal or fl ight plan in mind for every fl ight.

This can be learning a new maneuver(s), improving a

maneuver(s) you already know, or learning how the

model behaves in certain conditions (such as on high or

low rates). This is not necessarily to improve your skills
(though it is never a bad idea!), but more importantly so
you do not surprise yourself by impulsively attempting
a maneuver and suddenly fi nding that you’ve run out of
time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be

deliberate, not impulsive. For example, if you’re going to

do a loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction
(anticipating rudder corrections that will be required to

maintain heading), remember to throttle back at the top,
and make certain you are on the desired rates (high/

low rates). A fl ight plan greatly reduces the chances of

crashing your model just because of poor planning and

impulsive moves. Remember to think.

Have a ball! But always stay in control

and fl y in a safe manner.

GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!

34

Decal Placement Key

See Page 24.

HOW TO MAKE AN EXTENDED 7/64” BALL WRENCH

This model belongs to:

Name

Address

City, State, Zip

Phone Number

AMA Number

See Page 31.

Identification Tag

1. Cut the 7/64" ball wrench in approximately equal parts.

2. Use a piece of sandpaper to remove the coating from
the wrench 1-1/2" (38mm) from the cut.

the inside of the brass tube. Slide the cut ends of the
wrench into the brass tube 1" (25.4mm). Heat the tube
and the ball wrench and use silver solder to join the
pieces together. The length of the wrench needs to be
10" (254mm) long to reach the bolts inside the cowl.

3. Cut a piece of 5/32" x .014 (3.9 x .3mm) round brass
tube 6" (152mm) long.

4. Clean the ball wrench with denatured alcohol. Apply
silver solder fl ux to the cut ends of the ball wrench and

35