Top Flite Models Champaign, IL
Telephone (217) 398-8970, Ext. 5
airsupport@top-flite.com
™
WARRANTY
Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of
purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Fur ther, Top Flite reserves the
right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
SPECIFICATIONS
Wingspan
Wing
Area:
85 in
:
[2160mm]
1329 sq in
[85.7 dm
2
]
In that Top Flite has no control o v er the final assemb ly or material used f or final assemb ly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled prod-
Weight:
uct. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is
advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the
defective part or item to Hobby
Services at this address:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822 USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (da ytime
telephone number, f ax n umber , e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocop y of the
Wing
Loading:
Length:
Radio:5-7 channel
Engine:2.6–4.0 cu in
purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
The P-47D has been recognized as an excellent
modeling subject. The large wing and tail area and
long tail moment make an ideal fl ying airplane –
especially for a warbird! The Top Flite Giant P-47
Kit is a very successful model. Now, Top Flite has
developed the Giant P-47D ARF following the same
design as the kit. The Giant P-47D ARF will get y ou in
the air quickly with a great looking model, without the
sanding and covering required to build a kit.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections
to the Giant P-47D ARF visit the Top Flite web site
at www.top-fl ite.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, then
select the Giant P-47D ARF. If there is new technical
information or changes to this model a “tech notice”
box will appear in the upper left corner of the page.
AMA
If you are not already a member of the AMA, please
join! The AMA is the governing body of model
aviation and membership provides liability insurance
coverage, protects modelers’ rights and interests and
is required to fl y at most R/C sites.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Ph. (800) 435-9262 Or via the Internet at:
Fax (765) 741-0057 http://www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things
you can do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft
hobby are to avoid fl ying near full-scale aircraft and
avoid fl ying near or over groups of people.
IMAA
The Top Flite Giant P-47D ARF is an excellent sportscale model and is eligible to fl y in IMAA events. The
IMAA (International Miniature Aircraft Association) is
an organization that promotes non-competitive fl ying
2
Page 3
of giant-scale models. If you plan to attend an IMAA
event, obtain a copy of the IMAA Safety Code by
contacting the IMAA at the address or telephone
number below.
IMAA
205 S. Hilldale Road
Salina, KS 67401
Ph. (913) 823-5569Or via the Internet at:
www.fl y-imaa.org/
imaa/sanction.html
SCALE COMPETITION
Though the Top Flite Giant P-47D is an ARF and
may not have the same level of detail as an “all-out”
scratch-built competition model, it is a scale model
nonetheless and is therefore eligible to compete in
the Fun Scale class in AMA competition (we receive
many favorable reports of Top Flite ARFs in scale
competition!). In Fun Scale , the “b uilder of the model”
rule does not apply . To receive the fi ve points f or scale
documentation, the only proof required that a full size
aircraft of this type in this paint/markings scheme
did exist is a single sheet such as a kit box cover
from a plastic model, a photo, or a profi le painting,
etc. If the photo is in black and white, other written
documentation of color must be provided. Contact
the AMA for a rule book with full details.
If you would like photos of the full-size Tarheel Hal
P-47D for scale documentation, or if you would like
to study the photos to add more scale details, photo
packs are available from:
Bob’s Aircraft Documentation
3114 Y ukon Ave
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
Ph: (714) 979-8058 Or via the Internet at:
Fax: (714) 979-7279 www.bobsairdoc.com
PROTECT YOUR MODEL,
YOURSELF & OTHERS…
FOLLOW THESE IMPORT ANT
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
1. Your Giant P-47D ARF should not be considered
a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that
functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because
of its performance capabilities, the Giant P-47D
ARF, if not assembled and operated correctly, could
possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and
damage to property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as
doing so may result in an unsafe or unfl yable model.
In a few cases the instructions may diff er slightly from
the photos. In those instances the written instructions
should be considered as correct.
3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in
good condition, a correctly sized engine, and other
components as specifi ed in this instr uction manual.
All components must be correctly installed so that the
model operates correctly on the ground and in the air .
You must check the operation of the model and all
components before every fl ight.
5. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not
fl own this type of model before, we recommend that
you get the assistance of an experienced pilot in your
R/C club for your fi rst fl ights. If you’re not a member
of a club, your local hobby shop has information
about clubs in your area whose membership includes
experienced pilots.
6. While this kit has been fl ight tested to exceed
normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely
high stress fl ying, such as racing, or if an engine
larger than one in the recommended range is used,
the modeler is responsible for taking steps to reinf orce
the high stress points and/or substituting hardware
more suitable for the increased stress.
3
7. WARNING: The cowl and landing gear covers
included in this kit are made of fi berglass, the fi bers
of which may cause eye, skin and respiratory tract
irritation. Never blow into a part to remove fi berglass
dust, as the dust will blow back into y our eyes . Alwa ys
wear safety goggles, a particle mask and rubber
gloves when grinding, drilling and sanding fi berglass
parts. V acuum the parts and the work area thoroughly
after working with fi berglass parts.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top
quality, thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but
ultimately the quality and fl yability of your fi nished
model depends on how you build it; therefore, we
cannot in any way guarantee the performance of
your completed model, and no representations
are expressed or implied as to the performance or
safety of your completed model.
REMEMBER: Take your time and follow the
instructions to end up with a well-built model that is
straight and true.
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
This is a partial list of items required to fi nish the
Giant P-47D ARF that may require planning or
decision making before starting to build. Order
numbers are provided in parentheses.
ENGINE RECOMMENDATIONS
When considering engines for this model, refer to
the engine size recommendations on the cover of
the manual. Spark-ignition “gas” engines are most
popular with large-scale warbirds such as this. One
advantage of a gas engine is economy – gas engines
tend to consume less fuel than a glow engine as
well. Additionally, gas engines deposit little exhaust
residue on the model. Among other engines, this
model was test fl own with a Fuji-Imvac BT-43EI-2
engine. The Fuji-Imvac BT-43EI-2 provides more
than adequate power and fl ies the Giant P-47D ARF
in a scale-like manner.
Page 4
NOTE: Instructions for mounting every possible
engine cannot be incorporated into this manual.
Modelers using another engine may refer to the
instructions as a guide for mounting their engine in a
similar way. If using the BT-43EI-2 engine an optional
muffl er is recommended.
Bisson Inverted Muffl er (BISG6543)
❏
Per the IMAA Safety Code, magneto spark-ignition
engines must have a coil-grounding switch on the
aircraft to stop the engine and prevent accidental
starting, The switch must be operated manually
(without the use of the transmitter) and accessible by
the pilot and assistant. If using a spark-ignition engine,
refer to Install the Cowl on page 25 for details.
RADIO EQUIPMENT
The radio equipment and number of channels required
to fl y the Top Flite Giant P-47D ARF depends on the
capabilities of your transmitter and how the servos
will be connected.
The Giant P-47D ARF requires a servo to operate the
air control valve if using retracts, a throttle servo, two
fl ap servos, two aileron servos, two elevator servos
and a rudder servo. Servos with a minim um of 50 ozin [3.9kg-cm] of torque are required for operating the
elevators , rudder, ailerons and fl aps. We recommend
that metal geared servos also be used. Standard
servos may be used for the throttle and choke (the
servo operated choke is optional). A micro servo is
required to operate the retract air valve. An optional
servo operated kill switch may also be used (this is
in addition to the IMAA-required, manually operated
engine kill switch. A servo operated kill switch is only
really necessary for engines that do not reliably shut
off by closing the carburetor, but could also serve as
a backup.
FunctionType RequiredQty.
Elevators2
Rudder1
Ailerons2
Flaps2
Tail
Steering
Throttle1
Retract1
Optional
Choke
Futaba
S3305
Futaba
S3305
Futaba
S3305
Futaba
S3305
Futaba
1
S3305
Futaba
S3004
Futaba
S3102
Futaba
1
S3004
(FUTM0045)
min. 50 oz-in torque
(FUTM0045)
min. 50 oz-in torque
(FUTM0045)
min. 50 oz-in torque
(FUTM0045)
min. 50 oz-in torque
(FUTM0045)
min. 50 oz-in torque
(FUTM0027)
standard
(FUTM0034)
micro
(FUTM0027)
standard
Total10–11
A receiver battery with a minimum of 1,000mAh is
recommended for fl ying the Giant P-47D ARF. The
battery voltage should be checked before every fl ight
to be certain it has enough “charge”.
In addition to the servos, the following items (or
similar items) are also required. The order numbers
shown in parentheses are for Futaba servos.
Items RequiredQty.
6" Y-harness
4
ailerons & flaps (FUTM4130)
6" Servo Extension
4
choke, ailerons & flaps (HCAM2701)
12" [305mm] Servo Extension
3
for flaps & receiver switch (HCAM2711)
24" [610mm] Servo Extension
2
for ailerons (HCAM27021)
Heavy Duty Switch Harness
2
Ernst Charge Receptacle 124
1
for elevator, rudder/steering,
for throttle, optional
(FUTM4385)
(ERNM3001)
4
Note: The length and quantity of servo extensions
and Y-connectors may vary depending on the brand
of radio you are using and the radio installation.
RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR
The Top Flite Giant P-47D ARF may be assembled
with either the included fi xed landing gear or optional
retractable landing gear. If fi xed landing gear is used
no other items will need to be purchased to install the
gear. If you wish to install retractable landing gear,
this model is designed for Robart pneumatic retracts.
Following is the complete list of items required to
install the Robart retracts:
Items RequiredQty.
Robart #622P47
Top Flite Giant P-47
1
Pneumatic Retractable Main Landing Gear
(ROBQ1637)
Robart #160LWC
1
Retractable Tail Gear Assembly
(ROBQ2225)
Robart #157VRX
Large-Scale Deluxe Air Control Kit
1
– includes pressure tank, air line tubing,
variable-rate air valve, T-fittings
(ROBQ2305)
Robart #169
1
10' [3048mm] Red & Purple Pressure Tubing
(ROBQ2369)
Robart #190
1
pkg.
Note: An air pump will also be required to pressurize
the air tank. The Robart hand pump could be used,
but is not practical because of the large capacity
of the air tank in this model. A small, 12V electric
pump is recommended and can be purchased at an
automotive or hardware store.
Air Line Quick Disconnects
(ROBQ2395)
Page 5
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
REQUIRED HARDWARE AND
ACCESSORIES
In addition to the items listed in the “Decisions Y ou
Must Make” section, following is the list of hardware
and accessories required to fi nish the Top Flite
Giant P-47D ARF. Order numbers are provided in
parentheses.
(2) Dubro #813 1/8" Fuel Line Barb (DUBQ0670)
❏
(1) Dubro #554 X-large Tygon Fuel Line
❏
(DUBQ0427)
(1) R/C foam rubber (1/4" [6mm] (HCAQ1000) or
❏
1/2" [13mm] (HCAQ1050)
Optional Black paint for the plywood radial
❏
engine frame
Propeller and spare propellers suitable for your
❏
engine.
Painted Pilot (GPMA2807)
❏
ADHESIVES AND BUILDING SUPPLIES
This is the list of Adhesives and Building Supplies
that are required to fi nish the Giant P-47D ARF.
Easy-Touch™ Bar Sander section)
Curved-tip canopy scissors for trimming plastic
❏
parts (HCAR0667)
Covering tools
Top Flite MonoKote® sealing iron (TOPR2100)
❏
Top Flite Hot Sock™ iron cover (TOPR2175)
❏
Top Flite MonoKote trim seal iron (TOPR2200)
❏
Top Flite MonoKote heat gun (TOPR2000)
❏
OPTIONAL SUPPLIES AND TOOLS
Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual
that will help you build the Giant P-47D ARF.
2 oz. [57g] spray CA activator (GPMR6035)
❏
CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❏
CA debonder (GPMR6039)
❏
Builder’s Triangle Set (HCAR0480)
❏
Scale Warbird Template (TOPQ2187)
❏
36" metal ruler (HCAR0475)
❏
Hobbico® High Precision Diagonal Cutter 5"
❏
(HCAR0630)
Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0625)
❏
Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402)
❏
Switch & Charge Jack Mounting Set
❏
(GPMM1000)
5
Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510)
❏
Rotary tool such as Dremel
❏
Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8200)
❏
Servo horn drill (HCAR0698)
❏
AccuThrow™ Defl ection Gauge (GPMR2405)
❏
CG Machine™ (GPMR2400)
❏
Laser incidence meter (GPMR4020)
❏
36" bar for incidence meter (GPMR4021)
❏
Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer (TOPQ5700)
❏
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
● Anytime a sheet metal screw is installed in wood,
fi rst install the screw, remove the screw and apply a
couple of drops of thin CA in the hole to harden the
threads. After the CA has cured, reinstall the screw.
●Photos and sketches are placed before the
step they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in
following steps to get another view of the same parts.
● The Giant P-47D ARF is factory-covered with Top
Flite MonoKote fi lm. Should repairs ever be required,
MonoKote can be patched with additional MonoKote
purchased separately. MonoKote is packaged in sixfoot rolls, but some hobby shops also sell it by the
foot. If only a small piece of MonoKote is needed for
a minor patch, perhaps a fellow modeler would give
you some. MonoK ote is applied with a model airplane
covering iron, but in an emergency a regular iron could
be used. A roll of MonoKote includes full instructions
for application. Following are the colors used on this
model and order numbers for six foot rolls.
Aluminum (TOPQ0205)
Orange (TOPQ0202)
White (TOPQ0204)
Black (TOPQ0208)
Sapphire Blue (TOPQ0226)
Missile Red (TOPQ0201)
Page 6
● The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine
thrust angles have been factory-built into this
model. However, some technically-minded modelers
may wish to check these measurements anyway.
To view this information visit the web site at www.
greatplanes.com and click on “Technical Data.” Due
to manufacturing tolerances which will have little
or no effect on the way your model will fl y, please
expect slight deviations between your model and the
published values.
KIT INSPECTION
Before starting to build, take an inventor y of this kit
to make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts
to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any
parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality , or if
you need assistance with assembly, contact Product Support. When repor ting defective or missing parts,
use the part names exactly as they are written in the
Kit Contents list.
Replacement parts for the T op Flite Giant P-47D ARF are
available using the order n umbers in the Replacement Parts List that follows. The fastest, most economical
service can be provided by your hobby dealer or mailorder company. Not all parts are available separately
(an aileron cannot be purchased separately , b ut is only
available with the wing kit). Replacement parts are not
available from Product Support, but can be purchased
from hobby shops or mail order/Internet order fi rms.
Hardware items (screws, nuts , bolts) are also availab le
from these outlets.
To locate a hobby dealer, visit www.top-fl ite.com
and click on “Where to Buy”. Follow the instructions
provided on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian or
International dealer.
Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby
Services by calling (217) 398-0007, or via facsimile
at (217) 398-7721, but full retail prices and shipping
and handling charges will apply. Illinois and Nevada
residents will also be charged sales tax. If ordering
via fax, include a Visa or MasterCard number and
expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders Hobby Services
and payments by 3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
personal check to: Champaign IL 61822
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as
listed in the Replacement Parts List. Payment by
credit card or personal check only; no C.O.D.
If additional assistance is required for any reason
contact Product Support by e-mail at productsupport@
top-fl ite.com, or by telephone at (217) 398-8970.
Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer
Fin = Vertical Stabilizer
LE = Leading Edge
TE = Trailing Edge
" = Inches
mm = Millimeters
SHCS = Socket Head Cap Screw
mAh = Milliamp Hours (refers to the
usable capacity of a battery)
To convert inches to millimeters, multiply inches
by 25.4 (25.4mm = 1")
Page 7
KIT CONTENTS
1
ASSEMBLE THE WINGS
HINGE THE AILERONS
Start with the left wing so the assembly matches the
photos the fi rst time through.
22
19
21
20
16
15
3
1 - Fuselage
2 - Left wing
3 - Right wing
4 - Belly pan
5 - Left Stabilizer
6 - Right Stabilizer
7 - Stabilizer Joiner Tubes
8 - Rudder
and cut them into small squares. These paper towel
squares will come in handy for wiping away excess
epoxy throughout the assembly process (and will
save you from wasting whole paper towels).
2. Separate the aileron and fl ap from the wing
❏ ❏
by carefully peeling off the masking tape holding
them together. Use a paper towel square dampened
with naphtha lighter fl uid or similar solvent to remove
any glue left behind from the tape.
3. If necessary, use a covering iron with a
❏ ❏
covering sock to go over the wing, fl ap and aileron
to remove any wrinkles. The best method to remove
the wrinkles is to glide the iron over the covering until
7
Page 8
the wrinkles disappear, then go over the area again,
pushing down on the iron to bond the covering to the
wood. If the wrinkles don’t disappear, the balsa in
that area might be fl exing inward. If this is happening,
don’t press down. Simply let the heat of the iron shrink
the covering. If the wrinkles momentarily disappear,
then immediately reappear, the iron may be too hot,
thus causing air bubbles. Lower the temperature of
the iron or use a sharp #11 blade to puncture several
holes in the covering, then reheat. The suggested
iron temperature is around 360 degrees F.
2. Install a servo arm on the aileron servo.
❏ ❏
Position the aileron servo on the aileron servo hatch
cover as shown with the servo arm centered in the
opening. Set the tw o 5/16" x 5/8" x 13/16" [7.9 x 15.8
x 20.6mm] hardwood blocks in the embossed servo
block locations, checking that they are correct. If not,
mark the new location.
After the servo is installed the spacer will be removed,
providing adequate spacing for vibration isolation.
5. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the blocks
❏ ❏
for the servo mounting screws. Mount the ser vo to
the blocks with the screws that came with the servo.
Remove the servo mounting screws and apply a
couple of drops of thin CA in each hole to harden the
threads. Allow the CA to fully harden. Then, reinstall
the servos and remove the spacer.
The P-47 had many attributes that led to its
reputation. One of the most important was its
durability in combat. Oftentimes the P-47 would
bring pilots home with missing cylinders, blown-off
wing tips and large portions of tail surfaces missing.
The P-47’s internal systems were also durable and
well protected.
MOUNT THE AILERON SERVOS
1. Use a sharp hobby knife to trim the opening
❏ ❏
from over the left aileron servo hatch and the eight
screw holes.
3. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the two blocks
❏ ❏
to the bottom of the servo hatch over the embossed
servo block locations. Thoroughly coat the end of
the blocks and allow them to set for a few seconds
while the blocks absorb the epoxy. Then, recoat the
blocks. Use clamps to hold the blocks to the servo
hatch tray.
4. Once the epoxy has cured, remove the
❏ ❏
clamps. Place a 1/16" [1.6mm] spacer, such as a piece
of cardstock or a piece of paper folded several times,
under the servo and between each mounting block.
8
6. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the blocks
❏ ❏
at the two hole locations on the top of the aileron
servo hatch. Install two #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] fl at head
sheet metal screws to secure the servo mounting
blocks to the aileron servo hatch. Use thin CA to
harden the screw threads
7. Connect a 24" [610mm] servo e xtension wire
❏ ❏
to the aileron servo. Cut a piece of heat shrink tubing
Page 9
in half and slide it over the servo connections. Shrink
the tubing by applying heat to the tubing.
8. Use the string in the wing to pull the aileron
❏ ❏
wire through the wing.
9. Place the aileron servo hatch with the servo
❏ ❏
in the wing. Be certain that the hatch is positioned
correctly as shown. Secure the hatches using six #2
x 3/8" [9.5mm] fl at head sheet metal screws. Use thin
CA to harden the screw threads.
10. Go back to step 1 and install the right aileron
❏
servo following the same procedure.
aluminum landing gear door mounts onto the strut
and reinstall the strut in the strut mount.
MOUNT THE RETRACTS
Note: The fi xed main landing gear will not be
installed until after the two wing halves have been
joined. If using the fi xed main landing gear , proceed
to “Install the Flap Servos” on page 13.
Install the left retract fi rst.
1. Use a hex wrench to loosen the strut
❏ ❏
mounting bolt and remove the strut. Slide two
2. Trim the axle that is included with the Robart
❏ ❏
retracts to 1-1/2" [38mm] long. File a fl at spot at the
end of the axle. Inser t the axle through the included
5" [127mm] wheel and into the retract. Apply a drop of
threadlocker to the 10-32 x 3/16" [4.8mm] set screw,
included with the retract, and tighten the set screw
onto the fl at of the axle. Make sure that the wheel
rotates freely.
9
3. Test fi t the retract unit with the wheel into the
❏ ❏
wing. Position the retract so the wheel is centered in
the wheel well. Adjust the strut position in the retract
body as necessary to achieve the correct spacing
all the way around the wheel. You may need to sand
the top of the opening in the rib slightly to allow the
retract to fi t. Remove as little wood as possible.
Page 10
4. Extend the retract. View the wheel from
❏ ❏
directly above. Adjust the strut so that the wheel
is parallel to the root of the wing. Lock the strut in
position by applying a drop of threadlocker to the
threads and securely tightening the bolt at the top of
the strut.
5. Double check that the wheel will fully retract
❏ ❏
into the wing. Extend the retr act to make sure it does
not interfere with any part of the wing and that the
retract is operating smoothly.
the retracts with fi ve #6 x 3/4" [19.1mm] sheet metal
screws, one in each corner and one in the middle as
shown. Use one #6 x 1/2" [12.7mm] sheet metal screw
in the hole over the air cylinder.
7. Remo ve the six screws and retr act and apply
❏ ❏
a couple of drops of thin CA in the holes.
8. Cut the covering from the holes in the top of
❏ ❏
the wing for the servo wires and the airline tubing.
10. Connect the two pieces of air line tubing to
❏ ❏
the string in the retract bay. Guide the airline tubing
through the front of the retract bay, through the fl ap
bay and out the hole in the top of the wing. Also pull
the aileron servo lead out the hole. Tape the air line
and aileron servo lead to the top of the wing. Remount
the retract in the wing.
11. Use a sharp hobby knife to remove the
❏ ❏
covering from over the fi ve mounting holes in the
plywood retract cover. Set the retract cover over the
retract and drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] pilot hole using the
holes in the cover as a guide.
12. Mount the retr act cov er to the wing with fi ve
❏ ❏
#2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] fl at head sheet metal screws.
6. Hold the retr act in the wing. Using the mounting
❏ ❏
holes as a guide, drill 7/64" [2.8mm] pilot holes into the
retract rails. Caution: Do not inadv ertently drill into the
air cylinder when you get to the middle hole. Mount
9. Cut a 21" [533mm] piece of red air line
❏ ❏
tubing and a 23" [584mm] piece of purple air line
tubing from the tubing included with the Robart Air
Control Kit (not included). Connect the red line to
the front of the air cylinder and the purple to the
back of the air cylinder.
10
13. Cut tw o of the landing gear door drill guides
❏ ❏
from the back of the manual. Place the drill guides
in the rectangle recesses of the landing gear door.
Place the landing gear door on a piece of scrap wood
and drill a 1/8" [3.2mm] hole through the door at the
marked hole location.
Page 11
14. Adjust the position of the two landing gear
❏ ❏
door mounts so that they align with the fl ats on the
landing gear door when the door is positioned in the
landing gear opening.
15. Install a #4 fl at washer on 4-40 x 3/8"
❏ ❏
[9.5mm] machine screw. Inser t the machine screw
through one of the holes in the gear door and
thread it into the landing gear door mount. Note that
it tightens against the landing gear strut before it
tightens against the gear door. Install the second
machine screw to hold the gear door in position.
Check to make sure that the gear door is fl ush with
the bottom of the wing. 1.5mm thick rectangular
plywood spacers have been included to space the
gear doors out if needed. Both screws will need to
be shortened, a little at a time, so that they tighten
against both the landing gear strut and the gear
door. Be sure to use threadlocker on the screws.
INSTALL THE FLAP SERVOS
1. Install the fl ap servos following the same
❏ ❏
procedure used to install the aileron servos. Note that
the fl ap servos face the same direction.
2. Connect a 12" [305mm] servo e xtension wire
❏ ❏
to the fl ap servo. Secure the extension to the servo
with a piece of heat shrink or electrical tape.
3. Route the fl ap servo leads to the root of the
❏ ❏
wing and out the hole in the top of the wing.
INSTALL THE AILERON AND
FLAP PUSHRODS
Do the left aileron fi rst.
aileron servo arm 5/8" [15.9mm] from the center of
the arm.
2. Position the control horn so that it is inline
❏ ❏
with the pushrod and over the plywood mounting
plate. The pushrod holes in the control horn should
be aligned with the hinge line of the aileron. On the
aileron, mark the four mounting holes. Remove the
control horn and drill a 5/64" [2mm] pilot hole at each
mark. Do not drill completely through the aileron.
Attach the control horn using four #4 x 1/2" [12.7mm]
sheet metal screws. Use thin CA to harden the holes.
16. Return to step 1 and mount the right retract in
❏
the right wing.
The P-47 was manufactured by Republic Aircraft
Corporation, which at one time was named
Seversky Aircraft Corporation, started by two fello w
Russians, Alexander De Seversky and Alexander
Kartveli.
1. Slide a silicone clevis retainer over a 4-40
❏ ❏
threaded metal clevis. Thread a 4-40 nut followed by
the 4-40 metal clevis, threaded 12 turns onto a 4-40
x 12" [305mm] metal pushrod. Attach the cle vis to the
11
3. Install the metal solder clevis in the second
❏ ❏
hole from the end of the control horn. Center the
aileron servo and aileron. Mark the pushrod where it
meets the solder clevis. Remove the pushrod and the
solder clevis and cut the pushrod 1/4" [6.4mm] past
the mark. Solder the solder cle vis to the pushrod using
the techniques described in the following Hot Tip.
Page 12
HOW T O SOLDER
1. Use denatured alcohol or other solvent to
thoroughly clean the pushrod. Roughen the end of
the pushrod with coarse sandpaper where it is to
be soldered.
2. Apply a few drops of soldering fl ux to the end of
the pushrod, then use a soldering iron or a torch
to heat it. “Tin” the heated area with silver solder
by applying the solder to the end. The heat of the
pushrod should melt the solder – not the fl ame
of the torch or soldering iron – thus allowing the
solder to fl ow. The end of the wire should be coated
with solder all the way around.
3. Place the clevis on the end of the pushrod. Add
another drop of fl ux, then heat and add solder.
The same as before, the heat of the parts being
soldered should melt the solder, thus allowing
it to fl ow. Allow the joint to cool naturally without
disturbing. Avoid excess blobs, but make certain
the joint is thoroughly soldered. The solder should
be shiny, not rough. If necessary, reheat the joint
and allow to cool.
4. Immediately after the solder has solidifi ed, but
while it is still hot, use a cloth to quickly wipe off
the fl ux before it hardens. Important: After the joint
cools, coat the joint with oil to prevent rust. Note:
Do not use the acid fl ux that comes with silver
solder for electrical soldering.
This is what a properly soldered clevis looks
like – shiny solder with good flow, no blobs and
flux removed.
4. Slide a silicone cle vis retainer ov er the solder
❏ ❏
clevis. Reinstall the aileron pushrod with the threaded
clevis attached to the control horn.
5. Assemble and connect the fl ap pushrods
❏ ❏
following the same procedure. We installed the
pushrod in the outer hole of the control horn and the
hole 3/8" [9.5mm] from the center of the servo arm.
Note: With the fl ap fully retracted “up”, the ser vo arm
is centered on the servo.
6. Return to step 1 and install the aileron and fl ap
❏
pushrods on the right wing.
12
The Thunderbolt was a massive airplane, the
biggest and heaviest single engine, single-place
fi ghter ever built. The engine, the Pratt & Whitney
18 cylinder twin-row radial, developed 2,000 H.P.
and was the most powerful engine at the time.
However, in turn, it needed a highly effi cient
duct system for its super-charger. The designer,
Alexander Kartvile, designed the duct system fi rst,
then built the fuselage around it.
JOIN THE WING
Note: Keep the retracts (if installed) in the retracted
(up) position so they do not extend and retract as y ou
handle the wing.
1. Clean the aluminum wing joiner with denatured
❏
alcohol to remove any possible contaminant.
2. Gather everything required for gluing the
❏
wing joiner and wing together including 30-minute
epoxy, mixing sticks, epoxy brush, clamps, #64
rubberbands, 12" [305mm] long dowel or wire,
denatured alcohol and small paper towel squares.
Mix up a 1/2" oz. [14.7cc] of 30-minute epoxy. Apply
a generous amount of epoxy to one side of each of
the plywood wing joiners. Sandwich the aluminum
wing joiner between the two plywood wing joiners.
Hold the joiner together with clamps. Use a paper
towel dampened with denatured alcohol to wipe off
any excess epoxy around the edges.
Page 13
3. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the two 3/8"
❏
[9.5mm] diameter forward wing dowels in the
leading edge of the wing. The wing dowels should
protrude approximately 1/2" [12.7mm] from the
wing. Also glue the 1/4" [6.4mm] aft root rib guide
dowel in the left wing half. Clean off any excess
epoxy before it cures.
the wing together with rubberbands around the wing
dowels and the trailing edge.
5. Remo ve the rubberbands and separate the wing
❏
halves. Remove the wing joiner. Mix 2 oz. [59.1cc] of
30-minute epoxy. Working quickly, pour a generous
amount into the joiner pocket of one wing half. Use
your wire or dowel to thoroughly distribute the epoxy,
coating all surfaces inside the joiner pocket. Coat
the root rib and one half of the wing joiner that goes
into the wing. Insert the joiner in the wing. Proceed
immediately to the next step.
6. Coat the joiner poc ket in the other wing half and
❏
the other end of the wing joiner. Join the wing halves
together. Then, stand the wing on end with one of the
wing tips resting on the fl oor. Use a piece of R/C foam
or something similar to cushion and stabilize the wing
so it won’t slide around.
7. With the wing resting on end, use paper towel
❏
squares to wipe off any excess epoxy as it squeezes
out. Wrap the rubberbands around the wing dowels
and the aft end of the wing. Add several strips of
masking tape to tightly hold the wings together as
you continue to wipe off excess epoxy as it squeezes
out. Be certain the leading and trailing edges of the
wing accurately align. Do not disturb the wing until
the epoxy has fully cured.
air control kit. Cut two 10" [254mm] pieces of air line
(also from the control kit) and fi t each line to the
T -fi ttings. Connect one quick-connector with an O-ring
to one of the air lines and one of the quick connectors
without an O-ring to the other line. This will prevent
improper connection to the quick-connectors on the
air valve when mounting the wing to the fuselage.
INSTALL THE FIXED MAIN
LANDING GEAR
If you have installed the retractable landing gear
proceed to ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE.
4. Once the epoxy has cured, remove the clamps
❏
from the wing joiner and sand off any excess epoxy
you may have missed. Test fi t the wing joiner in each
wing half making sure that both wings halves fi t
together at the root without any gap. Trial fi t clamping
Perform this step only if you have installed retracts.
8. Join the matching air lines from each wing half
❏
with a couple of T-fi ttings that came with the Robar t
13
1. Place both fi xed landing gear mounts on the
❏
landing gear plates. The mounts are the same, but
the part with the straps goes towards the leading
edge of the wing. Using the holes in the mounts as a
guide, drill six 7/64" [2.8mm] holes into the landing
gear plates. Attach the landing gear mounts to the
landing gear plates with fi ve #6 x 3/4" [19.1mm]
sheet metal screws and one #6 x 1/2" [12.7mm]
sheet metal screw.
Page 14
2. Mount each main landing gear wire in the
❏
landing gear mount with two metal straps and four #4
x 1/2" [12.7mm] sheet metal screws.
4. Use a sharp hobby knif e to remo ve the co vering
❏
from over the fi ve mounting holes in the plywood
retract cover. Set the retract cover over the retract
and drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] pilot hole using the holes in
the cover as a guide.
5. Mount the retract cover to the wing with fi ve #2
❏
x 3/8" [9.5mm] fl at head sheet metal screws.
Various prototypes and incarnations of the P-47
began to materialize at Republic Aircraft around
1940. One of the fi rst designs recognizable as a
P-47 was the XP-44 Rocket. One of the engine
performance features carried over from Seversky
was the gear-driven supercharger and later a
turbo-supercharger.
ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE
INST ALL THE ST ABILIZER
1. Test fi t the two aluminum stabilizer tubes in the
❏
fuselage and slide the stabilizers on the tubes. The
shorter tube goes in the front hole. If the aluminum
tubes are too tight to slide through the holes, take
a sharp hobby knife and gently scrape the inside of
the holes. During the manufacturing process a small
amount of resin or fi ller may be left behind in the hole.
2. Once you are satisfi ed with the fi t of the
❏
stabilizer halves, remove the stabilizer halves and
the joiner tubes. Use medium grit sandpaper to
roughen up the aluminum tubes. Clean the tubes with
denatured alcohol and insert both tubes back into the
fuselage until the end exits on the opposite side by
approximately 1" [25.4mm].
3. Mount the wheels to the landing gear with
❏
a wheel collar on both sides of both wheels. Use
a small drop of threadlocker on all the 3 x 5mm
machine screws. Make sure the machine scre w in the
outer wheel collar tightens against the fl at spot on the
landing gear wire.
14
3. Gather everything required for gluing the
❏
stabilizer halves to the fuselage, including 30-minute
Page 15
epoxy, mixing sticks, epoxy brush, 12" [305mm] long
dowel or wire, masking tape, denatured alcohol and
small paper towel squares. Mix up 3/4 oz. [22.1cc] of
30-minute epoxy. Apply a generous amount of epoxy
to the long side of the aluminum joiner tubes. Pull
the tubes through the fuselage so that they are close
to centered. Pour a small amount of epoxy into both
holes of one of the stabilizer halves and using a dowel
or wire, coat the inside of the holes. Apply epoxy to
the root rib of the stabilizer and the fuselage. Inser t
the end of the aluminum tubes with epoxy on them
into the stabilizer and press the stabilizer against
the fuselage. Wipe off any excess epoxy that may
have squeezed out before it runs down the fuselage.
Quickly repeat the process on the other side. Wipe
off any excess epoxy with a dampened paper towel
and denatured alcohol. Use pieces of masking tape
to hold the stabilizer tight against the fuselage until
the epoxy cures.
To achieve this alignment, the hinges will be fairly
deep in the rudder. Also note that the hinges must be
perpendicular to the leading edge.
5. Again without glue, test fi t the rudder to
❏ ❏
the fi n. Move it left and right a few times to align the
hinges. The rudder doesn’t have to move very far,
only 2" [50.8mm] left and 2" [50.8mm] right measured
at the widest part of the rudder at the trailing edge. If
there is too much resistance, or if you are not able to
move the rudder left and right 2" [50.8mm], widen the
gap slightly between the rudder and the fi n.
7. Mix up approximately 1/4 oz. [7.4cc] of
❏ ❏
30-minute epoxy. Use a toothpick to thoroughly apply
the epoxy in the holes in the fi n and rudder. Use the
toothpick to get the epoxy out of the opening of the
holes in the rudder and fi n so it doesn’t get into the
hinge pin. Wipe away any excess epoxy around the
outside of the holes with a couple of the small paper
towel squares dampened with denatured alcohol.
4. Without using any glue, install fi ve hinges
❏ ❏
into the rudder. Note that the pivot point of each
hinge must align with the center of the leading edge.
6. Remove the rudder and all the hinges. Add
❏ ❏
a small drop of oil to the pivot point on the hinges.
This will prevent the epoxy from adhering to the pivot
point. Mak e sure oil does not get on the gluing surface
of the hinge. If it does, clean the oil off with a paper
towel square dampened with denatured alcohol.
15
8. Use the toothpic k to apply epoxy to the ends
❏ ❏
of the rudder hinges that go into the fi n. Insert each
hinge into the fi n and wipe away any excess epoxy
that squeezes out of the hole.
9. Apply epoxy to the other end of the hinges.
❏ ❏
Join the rudder to the fi n, pushing the hinges only
about 3/4 of the way into the rudder. Use a toothpick
to wipe away any epoxy that squeezes out. Then, fi t
the rudder the rest of the way in.
Page 16
10. Move the rudder left and right a few times
❏ ❏
to align the hinges and make certain that the rudder
defl ects left and right enough. Use a small piece of
masking tape to hold the tip of the rudder in alignment
with the tip of the fi n. Allow the epoxy to fully cure.
MOUNT THE FIXED T AIL GEAR
If you are installing the retractable tail gear, skip
to “MOUNT THE RETRACTABLE TAIL GEAR” on
this page.
the three 3x6mm machine screws. Adjust the location
of the steering arm so that it is fl ush with the top of
the tail gear wire and perpendicular to the tail wheel.
Also, remov e the two nuts from the top of the tail gear ,
apply threadlocker and reinstall the nuts.
2. Enlarge the holes in the steering arm with a
❏
5/64" [2mm] drill bit. Mount a 2-56 ball link ball to
each arm with a 2-56 nut and a drop of threadlocker.
3. Skip to step 5 in “Mount the Retractable Tail
❏
Gear” and follow the steps for installing the pullpull cable.
MOUNT THE RETRACT ABLE T AIL GEAR
Mount the steering arm to the shaft with a drop of
threadlocker and the set screw.
2. File another fl at spot near the bottom of the
❏
shaft for one of the set screws in the strut. Tighten
both set screws with a drop of threadlocker on each.
Be certain the steering ar m and the axle in the strut
remain parallel with each other. Make adjustments to
the fl at spots if necessary.
3. Enlarge the hole through the 1-3/4" [44mm] tail
❏
wheel with a #9 [5mm] drill. Cut the axle included with
the Robart retractable tail gear to the correct length,
then fi le a fl at spot on it and mount it to the strut.
4. Enlarge the middle hole in both sides of the
❏
steering arm with a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill. Insert a 2-56
ball link ball in the hole. Secure each ball with a 2-56
nut and a drop of threadlocker.
1. Slide a 3.5mm wheel collar on the tail gear wire .
❏
Insert the tail gear wire in the tail gear mount. Install
a second wheel collar followed by the steering ar m
on the tail gear wire. Apply a drop of threadlocker on
three 3x6mm machine screws. Secure the two wheel
collars and the steering arm to the tail gear wire with
1. Remove the steering arm from the Robart
❏
#160LWC retractable tail gear assembly (not
included). File a fl at spot near the top of the shaft
for the set screw in the steering arm to lock onto.
16
5. Use wire cutters to cut the supplied braided
❏
cable into two equal lengths. Slide a small copper
tube (called a swage) over one end of the cables,
then guide the end of the cable back through.
Page 17
6. Wrap the cable back around the swage and
❏
back through the swage.
7. Use pliers to pull the cable from the fi rst loop to
❏
reduce the size of the second loop.
9. Retractable tail gear only: Connect 40"
❏
[1016mm] of purple air line to the forward air fi tting and
40" [1016mm] of red air line to the aft fi tting on the air
cylinder. There is not enough air line leftover from the
main gear, so additional line will ha ve to be purchased
separately (Robart #169 Pressure Tubing).
10. Place the tail gear in the fuselage while
❏
simultaneously guiding the pull/pull cable through the
white plastic guide tubes. If installing the retractable tail
gear, also guide the air lines through the fuselage.
11. Remo ve the covering from ov er the two tail gear
❏
mounting holes in the bottom of the fuselage. Drill four
3/32" [2.4mm] holes through the rails for mounting the
tail gear. If your drill bit is not long enough to reach the
rail nearest the top of the fuselage, use medium CA
to temporarily glue a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill bit in a 1/8"
[3.2mm] brass tube. After drilling the holes, the drill bit
can be removed from the tube by heating the tube.
12. Mount the tail gear in the fuselage with f our #6
❏
x 1/2" [12.7mm] sheet metal screws.
After the British policy of giving names to aircraft
had caught on in the U.S., the XP-47B w as dubbed
“Thunderbolt” by C. Hart Miller, Republic’s Director
of Military Contracts. Republic offi cially approved
the name.
8. Now pull on the long end of the cable to reduce
❏
the size of the fi rst loop. Slip the loop over one of the
ball link balls on the steering arm. Tighten the loop
until it is small enough to remain secure on the ball,
yet may still be pried off. Squeeze the swage with
pliers. Connect the other cable to the other ball link
ball the same way.
17
Page 18
INSTALL THE ELEVATOR & RUDDER SERVOS
1. Insert the three 4-40 x 48" [1220mm] metal
❏
pushrods in the three outer pushrod tubes shown in
the photo.
3. Mount the control horns to the elevators and
❏
the rudder. Follow the same procedure used for the
ailerons, by drilling 3/32" [2.4mm] holes and using
#4 x 1/2" [12.7mm] sheet metal screws. Attach the
elevator clevis in the third hole from base of the
control horn. Install the rudder clevis in the second
hole from the base of the control horn. Don’t forget
to harden the holes with thin CA after fi rst installing,
then removing the screws.
5. Install solder clevises on the elevator servo
❏
arms in the hole 7/16" [11.1mm] from the center of
the servo arm. Install a solder clevis on the rudder
servo arm in the hole 1/2" [12.7mm] from the center
of the servo arm. Following the same procedure that
was done for the aileron and fl ap pushrods, mark
the elevator and rudder pushrods where they are to
be cut for the solder clevises. One at a time, remove
the threaded metal clevis from the control horn end,
remove the pushrod from the fuselage, cut it to the
correct length and solder a metal solder clevis on the
end. Reinstall the pushrod from the front and connect
the solder clevis to the servo arms. Reinstall the
threaded metal clevis and 4-40 nut. Don’t forget to use a silicone clevis retainer on all the clevises.
2. Thread a 4-40 nut, threaded cle vis and a silicone
❏
clevis retainer, 12 turns, onto both elevator pushrods
and the rudder pushrod.
4. Place two elevator, one rudder and one tail
❏
wheel steering servo in the servo tray as shown.
Make three one-arm servo arms and one two-arm
servo arm from the servo arms that came with your
servos. Position the servo arms as shown.
18
6. Thread a 4-40 nut and a 4-40 metal clevis, 12
❏
turns, on to each of the 4-40 rigging couplers. Slide
a silicone clevis retainer over each clevis. Install the
clevises on the tailwheel steering servo arm in the holes
7/16" [11.1mm] from the center of the servo arm.
Page 19
7. Center the servo arm and the tailwheel gear.
❏
Install a swage on each cable, securing it following
the same procedure used on the tail gear. Use a
pliers to crimp the swage tightly on the cable.
9. Overlap by 1" [25.4mm] a 6" [152mm] long
❏
piece of hook and a 6" [152mm] long piece of loop
material. Route the hook and loop material through
the two slots in the left forward fuselage side. Wrap
your receiver battery in R/C foam rubber and secure
it to the side of the fuselage with the hook and loop
material. Connect the receiv er battery to the receiver
switch. Use the included heat shrink material to
secure the connectors. Make sure the receiver
battery is secure.
10. Mount the receiver on the other side of the
❏
fuselage using hook and loop material. Connect the
receiver switch and the servos to the receiver. Route
the receiver antenna through the remaining pushrod
tube. Attach a strain relief on the antenna.
INST ALL THE ENGINE
The following engine mounting instructions shows
the installation of the Fuji-Imvac BT-43EI-2 gas
engine. The installation of other brands of engines
will be similar and the following instructions can be
used as a guide.
1. The Giant P-47 ARF fi rewall has two sets of
❏
engine mounting bolt patterns embossed on it. The
“X” is f or the Fuji-Imvac BT-43EI-2 gas engine and the
“+” is for the DA-50 gas engine. If you are installing
an engine with a different mounting bolt pattern the
fi rewall also has crosshairs embossed on it to help
locate the correct mounting location.
8. Mount the receiver on/off switch and charge
❏
receptacle in a strategic location where it won’t
interfere with anything inside the fuselage and
where it will not get coated with engine exhaust
outside the fuselage.
Early production Thunderbolts were not without
teething pains typical of any new aircraft. Takeoff
runs were long (nearly a half-mile to clear a fi fty
foot obstacle) and there were se veral electrical and
hydraulic glitches, not to mention the unfamiliarity
of a totally new design. One fi ghter group damaged
or wrecked half of the P-47s received.
19
2. Drill a 1/4" [6.4mm] hole through the fi rewall at
❏
each location marked with an “X”. Install the M5 b lind
nuts in the holes from the back of the fi rew all. Mount
Page 20
the engine to the fi rewall using four M5 x 30mm long
and four M5 fl at washers. Apply a drop of threadlock er
to each bolt before installing. For reference, the
distance from the front of the fi rewall to the front of
the drive washer is 6-3/4" [171.4mm]. With the FujiImvac BT-43EI-2 one of the 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood
engine spacers was required between the engine
and the fi rewall.
3. Install a 2-56 ball link ball on the throttle arm of
❏
the carburetor. Secure the ball link ball with a 2-56
lock nut.
4. Drill a 3/16" [4.8mm] hole inline with the ball
❏
link ball. Use medium sandpaper to roughen the g ray
outer pushrod tube. Clean the tube with denatured
alcohol and insert the tube into the previously drilled
hole in the fi rewall. Route the tube through the front
formers of the fuselage until it protrudes approximately
1/8" [3mm] from the fi rewall. Use thin CA to glue the
tube to the fi rewall. Trim the tube approximately 1"
[25.4mm] in front of the servo tray.
6. Thread a 2-56 x 1" [25.4mm] threaded rod
❏
approximately 3/8" [9.5mm] into the end of the white
inner pushrod tube. Thread a nylon clevis 14 turns
onto the end of the threaded rod. Slide a silicone
clevis retainer ov er the clevis. Attach the clevis to the
throttle servo arm.
5. Mount the throttle servo in the servo tray and
❏
slide a plywood pushrod support onto the outer
pushrod tube.
20
7. Thread the nylon ball link socket 14 turns
❏
onto the second 2-56 x 1" [25.4mm] threaded rod.
Attach the ball link socket to the ball link ball on the
throttle arm.
Page 21
8. Position the throttle stick so that it is centered
❏
on the transmitter. Adjust the throttle ser vo arm so
that it is centered on the throttle servo. Move the
throttle arm on the carburetor so that the throttle
is open approximately half way. Mark and cut the
white pushrod tube to length. Remove the ball link
socket from the throttle arm and thread it into the cut
end of the white pushrod tube. Reattach the clevis
to the throttle servo arm and the ball link socket to
the ball link ball. Make adjustments as needed so
that the throttle opens and closes completely. Glue
the plywood pushrod support to the second former
and the outer pushrod tube to the support. If needed
a second pushrod support could be glued to the
fuselage side, closer to the throttle servo.
10. Place the ignition module on a piece of R/C
❏
foam rubber and secure it to the top of the fi rewall
box with hook and loop material. Rubber straps, cut
from a rubberband (not included) can be glued to the
fi rewall box to hold the excess wires.
11. Wrap the ignition battery in R/C foam rubber
❏
and attach it to the bottom of the fi rew all box with hook
and loop material. The ignition s witch can be installed
in the fuselage side at this time or a separate switch
mount has been provided that mounts to the side of
the fi rewall bo x. The switch can be accessed through
a hole in the cowl.
ASSEMBLE AND INSTALL
THE FUEL TANK
®
as Shoe Goo
the tank in position, but still allow it to be removed if
necessary. A plywood plate will be installed later to
secure the tank at the aft end.
2. Assemble the fuel tank stopper assembly with
❏
the fuel tubes as shown. The easiest way is to fi rst
solder a fuel line barb (not included) onto one end
of all three tubes. Inser t the tubes into the stopper
with the metal plates, and then solder a barb onto
the other end of the two short tubes. Bend the vent
tube and connect the pickup and fueling/defueling
lines (not included) to the short tubes. Connect the
clunks to the lines and secure the lines to the clunk
and brass tubing with the included small tie straps.
can be applied at the front to hold
9. Install the servo operated choke following the
❏
same procedure.
1. Attach a 12" [305mm] piece of airline tubing to
❏
the pressure tank. Insert the pressure tank into the
fuselage. A couple of dabs of silicone sealant such
21
3. Install the fuel tank stopper assembly in the
❏
fuel tank. Check that the clunks move around freely
in the fuel tank. Tighten the fuel tank stopper screw.
Refer to step 5 on page 22 for the orientation of the
fuel tank.
Page 22
4. Glue the fuel tank brace to the back of the
❏
fi rewall and the #2 former.
line from the pickup to the carburetor. The other two
fuel lines can be routed out the bottom of the cowl.
Insert an aluminum fuel plug in the fueling/defueling
line. Secure the fuel tank in the fuselage with the two
included rubberbands.
During speed run testing of early production
P-47s, test pilots attained a level fl ight speed of
over 400 mph.
INST ALL THE
AIR RETRACT CONTROLS
a 1/16" [1.6mm] pilot hole in the hardwood rails using
the two mounting tabs as guides. Attach the retract
servo tray to the rails with #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] sheet
metal screws and #2 washers.
3. Install the retract control valve servo in the
❏
retract servo tray and plug it into the receiver.
4. Assemble the retract control valve mount and
❏
install the retract control valve. Install a .080 ball link
ball and .080 nut on the valve. Be sure to use a drop
of threadlocker on the threads of the ball link ball.
5. Determine how y ou want to run the fuel line and
❏
drill holes where necessary in the fi rewall. Install fuel
line on the three tubes from the fuel tank. Insert the
fuel tank in the fuselage making sure the vent tube
is towards the top of the fuselage. Connect the fuel
1. Glue the retract servo tray together as shown.
❏
2. Test fi t the retract servo tray in the fuselage. It
❏
should fi t between the two hardwood rails. The back
of the tray will help retain the air pressure tank. Drill
22
5. Glue the retract control valve mount on the
❏
retract servo tray.
Page 23
6. Cut off 1/2" [12.7mm] from the threaded end
❏
of the 2-56 x 6" [152mm] metal pushrod. Thread the
nylon ball socket on the pushrod. Snap the ball soc ket
onto the ball link ball on the retract control valve . Mark
the pushrod where it crosses the servo arm and make
a 90 degree bend at the mark. Install the pushrod in
the servo arm and install a nylon FasLink. Cut the
pushrod 1/8" [3mm] past the top of the FasLink.
8. Connect the air lines from the retracts in the
❏
wing to the quick connectors in the fuselage. Pumpup the pressure tank to the recommended pressure
and operate the retracts a couple of times, making any
adjustments as needed. The opening for the tail gear
may need to be widened slightly at the steering arm to
prevent the steering arm from rubbing on the fuselage.
Tape the fi berglass tail gear retract cover over the
retract opening. Again, operate the retracts, checking
that the tail gear retract does not hit the cover.
at the center of the stringer. Reposition the retract
cover and tape it in place. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes
through the cover and the stringers at each mark.
Remove the cov er and enlarge the holes in the co ver
only with a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill bit. Attach the cover
to the fuselage with #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] sheet metal
screws and #2 washers. Harden the screw holes with
thin CA glue.
One might question the selection of an older
technology, bulkier radial engine vs. a more
modern and streamlined “V” engine for the P-47. A
problem of “V” engines is their liquid cooling system
(including a radiator) which is susceptible to gun
fi re. Before Glycol became available, liquid cooled
engines also featured extremely large radiators
adversely affecting aerodynamics. Early P-47
design team members were not willing to “put all
their eggs in one basket” and utilized “V” engines
for some of their other projects.
7. Install a fi ll valve in the fuselage side in
❏
a convenient location. Refer to the air retracts
instructions. Connect the pressure tank, fi ll valve and
control valve to a T-fi tting. Connect the two air lines
coming from the tail gear retract to separate T-fi ttings.
Then, connect the T-fi ttings to the control valve.
Finally connect the quick connects to the T-fi ttings.
Make sure the quick connectors correspond to the
quick connectors installed in the wing. Electrical tape
can be used to wrap the air lines together to clean up
the installation.
9. The tail gear retract cover can be permanently
❏
installed using CA glue or with screws. If CA glue is
used it will be diffi cult to remove the cover and access
the retracts if needed. To install the cover with screws ,
tape a piece of paper to the fuselage at each corner
of the tail gear opening. Place a mark on the paper
23
INST ALL THE COWL
1. Note that there are four long cowl mounting
❏
brackets and two short cowl mounting brackets.
Page 24
2. P osition the two short cowl mounting brac kets in
❏
the two bottom slots in the front of the fuselage. Drill a
1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the forward former using
the hole in the cowl mounting bracket as a guide.
Attach the cowl mounting bracket to the forward
former using 6-minute epoxy, #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] sheet
metal screws and #2 fl at washers.
3. Install the four long cowl mounting brackets in
❏
the remaining slots following the same procedure.
4. Cut out tw o openings between the cylinders and
❏
the center of the plastic radial engine. The center hole
needs to be large enough to clear the drive washer
of the gas engine.
5. Drill 7/64" [2.7mm] holes in the bottom of the
❏
rocker arms and in the crankcase as shown. Glue the
eighteen aluminum tubes in the holes.
6. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes in the front of the
❏
cylinder head and the crankcase. Glue the red
sparkplug wire in the holes.
24
7. The plywood engine frame can be painted b lack.
❏
Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the plastic radial engine
to the plywood engine frame. Align the radial engine
with the embossed circle on the plywood frame.
8. Test fi t the radial engine assembly in the cowl.
❏
Position it so it is centered and equal distance from
the edge of the cowl. Mark the location on the inside
of the cowl. This will help you reposition the engine
once you have applied epo xy to the engine assemb ly.
Use masking tape to hold the dummy engine in
position and test fi t the cowl on the fuselage over the
gas engine.
Page 25
9. Before gluing, use sandpaper to roughen the
❏
gluing area inside the cowl. Clean the area with a
paper towel dampened with denatured alcohol. Mix
approximately 1/2 oz [14.7cc] of 30-minute epoxy.
For a stronger joint, add some milled fi berglass to the
epoxy . Apply epoxy to the edge of the engine assembly
and insert it in the cowl. Use the remaining epoxy to
create a fi llet around the edge of the assembly.
intake 3/8" [9.5mm] from the base. Trial fi t the intake
in the cowl. It should fi t over the rocker arm covers
of the radial engine, against the inner lip of the cowl.
Once satisfi ed with the fi t, use medium sandpaper
to roughen the end of the intake. Clean the sanding
dust off with denatured alcohol and glue it to the cowl
inside with CA. Use canopy glue to attach the front of
the intake to the back of the cowl lip.
13. Assemb le the ignition switch brac ket as shown.
❏
Note that the tabs on the sides, top and bottom should
all be at the same end.
10. Trim the red turbo charger/oil cooler intake
❏
around the base. Then mark and trim the top of the
11. Test fi t the cowl over the engine. Install the
❏
recommended propeller on the engine. Adjust the
position of the cowl so that the dummy radial engine
is centered on the drive washer and the propeller
clears the front of the cowl by 1/8" [3.2mm]. The cowl
mounting brackets should be approximately 1/8"
[3.2mm] inside the edge of the cowl.
12. The six cowl mounting brackets can be seen
❏
from the rear of the cowl. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] pilot
hole through the cowl and the center of the cowl
mounting brackets. Enlarge the holes in the cowl
to 1/8" [3.2mm]. Secure the cowl to the mounting
brackets with #4 x 1/2" [12.7mm] sheet metal scre ws
and #4 fl at washers. Be sure to harden the screw
holes with thin CA.
25
14. Attach the switch bracket to the side of the
❏
fi rewall box with 6-minute epoxy and two #2 x 3/8"
[9.5mm] sheet metal screws and #2 fl at washers.
Coat the switch bracket with thinned epoxy or fuel
proof paint after it is installed.
15. Install the ignition switch in the switch bracket.
❏
Connect the switch to the ignition battery and the
ignition module. Use heat shrink to help secure the
connections. As with the ignition wires, pieces of
rubberbands can be glued to the fi rewall box, over
the ignition switch wires to hold them in position.
Page 26
16. Use a piece of stiff card stock or a fi le folder
❏
taped to the side of the fuselage to mark the location
of the ignition switch.
18. Follow the same procedure for the muffl er,
❏
cooling air exit and the carburetor air intake if the
Fuji-Imvac BT-43EI-2 has been installed. Remove
the cowl before cutting the holes to pre vent fi berglass
dust from entering the carburetor. Route the fuel/
defuel and vent fuel lines out the cooling air exit in
the bottom of the cowl. Install the aluminum fuel line
plug in the fuel/defueling line.
APPLY THE FINAL DETAILS
the covering, or trim and remove the covering from
inside the outline. This will help the glue hold the
fairing on. Glue the turbocharger exhaust fairing on
the fuselage with canopy glue or medium CA.
2. Glue the two innercooler exhaust doors in the
❏
two cutouts in the aft end of the fuselage.
17. With the card stock still taped to the fuselage,
❏
re-install the cowl. Make the switch location, remove
the cowl and cut the opening for the ignition switch
in the side of the cowl using a high speed rotary tool
with a carbide cutting bit. Start with a small hole and
slowly enlarge the hole, while test fi tting the cowl on
the fuselage.
1. Position the turbocharger exhaust fairing as
❏
shown. Mark on the fuselage the outline of the fairing.
Inside the outline use a T-pin to prick small holes in
26
3. Glue the two oil cooler louvers to the forward
❏
lower fuselage follo wing the same procedure used to
install the turbocharger exhaust fairing.
Page 27
4. Trim the armor plate and the cockpit fl oor along
❏
the edge so that they lay fl at. Use medium CA to glue
the fl oor in the bottom of the cockpit. The fl oor should
be positioned as far forward as possible.
the red round headed pins in the lower right corner
of the instrument panel to represent a knob. Glue the
instrument panel in the front of the cockpit so that
the top of the instrument panel is fl ush with the top of
the fuselage. Canopy glue or thick CA works well for
attaching the instrument panel.
6. Trim and glue the canopy track to the top of
❏
the fuselage. Note that the front of the canopy track
overhangs into the cockpit.
5. Trim the plastic from around the rudder pedals
❏
on the bottom of the instrument panel. Insert one of
7. Glue the armor plate to the back of the cockpit.
❏
27
8. Trim the sides of the cockpit leaving
❏
approximately 1/16" [1.6mm] lip around the edges.
The ends will need to be trimmed to fi t between the
instrument panel and the armor plate. Apply the
decals to the numbered locations on the side cockpit
panels. Install the white and red round head pins and
decals as shown. The top edge of the cockpit sides
should fi t under the stringer at the top of the cockpit.
Page 28
The “bubb le canopy” version was a result of pilots’
complaints of lack of rearward visibility. In 1943
a P-47D-5 was modifi ed by removing the razor
spine and fi tting a modifi ed Hawker Tempest
bubble canop y. In addition to the new canopy w as
a fl at, armored windscreen. The fi rst production
version of the bubble canopy was designated
P-47D-25-RE (produced in Farmingdale), of
which 385 were built.
pan on the bottom of the wing. Cut and remo ve a 1/2"
[12.7mm] wide strip of covering, 1/32" [0.8mm] from
inside the outline.
4. Remove the wing and place waxed paper
❏
between the wing and the fuselage at the leading
and trailing edge. This will prevent the wing from
becoming glued to the fuselage if the epoxy should
run out of the joint. Reinstall the wing.
9. Drill a 1/8" [3.2mm] hole through the center of
❏
the control stick boot. Trim the seat along the cutout
lines and glue it to the pedestal on the cockpit fl oor.
Now glue the control stick in the previously drilled
hole using the height of the seat as a guide.
10. Now is the time to install a pilot before gluing
❏
the canopy on. Wash the canopy in warm water, and
then, dry it off. Place the canopy on the fuselage. Be
certain it is centered from side-to-side and mark the
outline on the fuselage. As before, prick holes in the
covering or trim and remove the covering, just inside
the outline. Use canopy glue to attach the canopy on
the fuselage.
FINISH THE WING
1. Place the wing bolt plate on the bottom of the
❏
wing and insert the 1/4-20 x 2" [51mm] nylon wing
bolts through the wing bolt plate and the wing. Mark
the outline of the wing bolt plate onto the bottom of
the wing.
2. Carefully cut the covering with a sharp hobby
❏
knife, using the outline as a guide. Be careful not to
cut into the balsa. Peel the covering from the wing.
Glue the wing bolt plate to the wing with 6-minute
epoxy, using the wing bolts and masking tape to hold
it down.
3. Mount the wing on the fuselage. Position the
❏
belly pan on the wing so that it is evenly spaced
between the fuselage. Mark the outline of the belly
28
5. Glue the belly pan to the wing using 30-minute
❏
epoxy. Make sure that the belly pan is tight against
the bottom of the wing and centered between the
fuselage. Wipe off any excess epoxy before it cures.
6. Clean the aluminum tubes with denatured
❏
alcohol and glue the gun barrels in the wing with
Page 29
6-minute epoxy. Note the distance from the leading
edge of the wing to the end of each gun barrel.
The “belly pan” under the wing conceals the air
ducting for the supercharger. One duct carries
air from the intake in the front of the cowl back
to the supercharger (driven by the turbine) and
two smaller ducts carry exhaust gasses from the
engine to the turbine.
APPL Y THE DECALS
1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the
❏
decals from the sheet. Where possible, round the
corners so they won’t catch and lift while cleaning
and handling the model.
Please use the following pictures as
a guide for decal placement.
2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily
❏
fi ngerprints and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small
bucket with a mixture of liquid dish soap and warm
water—about 1/2 teaspoon [2.5cc] of soap per gallon
of water. Submerse one of the decals in the solution
and peel off the paper backing. Note: Even though
the decals have a “sticky-back” and are not the water
transfer type, submersing them in soap & water
allows accurate positioning and reduces air bubbles
underneath.
3. Position decal on the model where desired.
❏
Holding the decal down, use a paper towel to wipe
most of the water away.
4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar
❏
to squeegee remaining water from under the decal.
Apply the rest of the decals the same way.
One problem that occurred with the removal of the
razor spine to accommodate the bubble canopy
was tail fl utter. Beginning with the D-40, a dorsal
fi n was added to rectify this. The dorsal fi n was also
retrofi tted to all previous variants still fl ying.
29
Page 30
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY
INST ALL THE PROPELLER
1. Carefully balance the propeller and any spare
❏
propellers. An unbalanced propeller can be the single
most signifi cant cause of vibration that can damage
the model. Not only will engine mounting bolts loosen,
possibly with disastrous effect, b ut vibration ma y also
damage the receiver and receiver batteries. Vibration
can also cause the fuel to foam, which will, in turn,
cause the engine to run hot and quit.
We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great
Planes Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our
fl ight box.
2. The included aluminum prop hub was designed
❏
to be used with the DA-50 or the Fuji-Imvac BT-43EI-2
gas engines. Bolt the include prop hub in front of the
propeller in place of the prop washer.
3. Install the prop hub cone on the engine using
❏
a M5 x 50mm socket head cap screw. Use a drop of
threadlocker on the threads.
BALANCE THE MODEL LATERALLY
1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you
❏
lift the model by the engine propeller shaft and the
bottom of the fuse under the TE of the fi n. Do this
several times.
2. If one wing alw ays drops when you lift the model,
❏
it means that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by
adding weight to the other wing tip. An airplane that
has been laterally balanced will track better in
loops and other maneuvers.
CHECK THE CONTROL DIRECTIONS
1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center
❏
the trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from
the servos and reposition them so they are centered.
Reinstall the screws that hold on the servo arms.
2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check
❏
all the control surfaces to see if they are centered.
If necessary, adjust the clevises on the pushrods to
center the control surfaces.
30
4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP (STANDARD MODE 2)
RIGHT AILERON
RUDDER
MOVES
RIGHT
FULL
THROTTLE
3. Make certain that the control surfaces and
❏
the carburetor respond in the correct direction as
shown in the diagram. If any of the controls respond
in the wrong direction, use the servo reversing in
the transmitter to reverse the servos connected to
those controls. Be cer tain the control surfaces have
remained centered. Adjust if necessary.
MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON
MOVES DOWN
ELEVATOR
MOVES DOWN
SET THE CONTROL THRO WS
To ensure a successful fi rst fl ight, set up your
Giant P-47D ARF according to the control throws
specifi ed in this manual. The throws have been
determined through actual fl ight testing and
accurate record-keeping, allowing the model to
perform in the manner in which it was intended. If,
after you have become accustomed to the way the
Giant P-47D ARF fl ies, you would like to change
the throws to suit your taste, that is fi ne. However,
too much control throw could make the model too
responsive and diffi cult to control, so remember,
“more is not always better.”
Page 31
At the Servos
The pushrod farther out
means More Throw
The pushrod closer in
means Less Throw
NOTE: The throws are measured at the widest part
of the elevators, rudder and ailerons.
These are the recommended
control surface throws:
HIGH RATELOW RATE
1. Use a box or something similar to prop up the
❏
bottom of the fuselage so the horizontal stabilizer
and wing will be level. Hold a ruler vertically on
your workbench against the widest part (front to
back) of the trailing edge of the elevator. Note the
measurement on the ruler.
2. Measure the high r ate ele v ator throw fi rst. Move
❏
the elevator up with your transmitter and move the
ruler forward so it will remain contacting the trailing
edge. The distance the ele vator mov es up from center
is the “up” elevator throw . Measure the down elevator
throw the same way.
At the Control Surfaces
The pushrod farther out
means Less Throw
3. If necessary, adjust the location of the pushrod
❏
on the servo arm or on the elevator horn, or program
the ATVs in your transmitter to increase or decrease
the throw according to the measurements in the
control throws chart.
4. Measure and set the low rate elevator throws
❏
and the high and low rate throws for the rest of the
control surfaces the same way.
If your radio does not hav e dual rates, we recommend
setting the throws at the high rate settings.
The pushrod closer in
means More Throw
31
Up
3/4"
[19.1mm]
ELEVATOR
RUDDERAILERONSFLAPS
Once the throws are set, apply a drop of threadlocker
to the threads on the pushrod and tighten the nuts
against the clevises.
12°
Right
1-7/8"
[47mm]
22°
Up
3/4"
[19.1mm]
15°
Down
3/4"
[19.1mm]
12°
Left
1-7/8"
[47mm]
22°
Down
3/4"
[19.1mm]
15°
Down
2-3/8"
[60mm]
34°
Up
1/2"
[12.7mm]
8°
Right
1-3/8"
[35mm]
16°
Up
1/2"
[12.7mm]
10°
Down
1/2"
[12.7mm]
8°
Left
1-3/8"
[35mm]
16°
Down
1/2"
[12.7mm]
10°
BALANCE THE MODEL (C.G.)
More than any other factor, the C.G. (center of
gravity/balance point) can have the greatest effect
on how a model fl ies and could determine whether
or not your fi rst fl ight will be successful. If you
value your model and wish to enjoy it for many
fl ights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE. A model that is not properly
balanced may be unstable and possibly unfl yable.
Page 32
At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fl y
condition with all of the components in place including
the complete radio system, engine, muffl er, propeller ,
spinner and pilot. The fuel tank should be empty.
6-3/8"
[162mm]
1. If using a Great Planes C.G. Machine, set the
❏
rulers to 6-3/8" [162mm]. If not using a C.G. Machine,
use a fi ne-point felt tip pen to mark lines on the top of
the wing on both sides of the fuselage 6-3/8" [162mm]
back from the leading edge. Apply narrow (1/16"
[2mm]) strips of tape over the lines so you will be able
to feel them when lifting the model with your fi ngers.
This is where your model should balance for the
fi rst fl ights. Later, you may experiment by shifting
the C.G. 1/4” [6.4mm] forward or 1/4” [6.4mm] back
to change the fl ying characteristics. Moving the C.G.
forward will improve the smoothness and stability,
but the model will then be less aerobatic (which
may be fi ne for less-experienced pilots). Moving
the C.G. aft makes the model more maneuverable
and aerobatic for experienced pilots. In any case,
start at the recommended balance point and
do not at any time balance the model outside the
specifi ed range.
6-3/8" [162mm]
2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts
❏
of the model installed (ready to fl y) and an empty
fuel tank, place the model upside-down on a Great
Planes CG Machine, or lift it upside-down at the
balance point you marked.
3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy.” If the
❏
nose drops, the model is “nose heavy. ” F or a tail heavy
model the receiver battery pack can be moved aft.
For a nose heavy model use Great Planes “stick-on”
lead (GPMQ4485). To fi nd out how much weight is
required, place incrementally increasing amounts of
weight on the bottom of the fuselage over the location
where it would be mounted inside until the model
balances. A good place to add stick-on nose weight is
to the fi rewall. Do not attach weight to the cowl—this
will cause the mounting screws to open up the holes
in the cowl. Once you have determined the amount
of weight required, it can be permanently attached. If
required, tail weight may be added by cutting open the
bottom of the fuse and gluing it permanently inside.
If mounting weight where it may be e xposed to fuel or
exhaust, do not rely upon the adhesive on the back
to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel and
exhaust residue may soften the adhesive and cause
the weight to fall off. Instead, permanently attach the
weight with glue or screws.
Note: It is highly recommended that with gas powered
planes the ignition system and all its components
be separated from the radio system components by
32
at least 10"[254mm] to prevent ignition noise from
interfering with the radio system. If the plane is nose
heavy , do not mov e the receiver battery forward closer
to the ignition system. If the plane is tail hea vy, do not
move the ignition battery aft closer to the receiver.
4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add
❏
any weight, recheck the C.G. after the weight has
been installed.
CHECK LIST
During the last few moments of preparation your
mind may be elsewhere anticipating the e xcitement
of the fi rst fl ight. Because of this, you may be more
likely to overlook certain checks and procedures
that should be performed before the model is fl own.
To help avoid this, a check list is provided to make
sure these important areas are not overlooked.
Many are covered in the instruction manual, so
where appropriate, refer to the manual f or complete
instructions. Be sure to check the items off as they
are completed (that’s why it’s called a check list!).
1. Fuelproof all areas exposed to fuel or exhaust
❏
residue such as the cowl ring, wing saddle area, etc.
2. Chec k the C .G. according to the measurements
❏
provided in the manual.
3. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely
❏
mounted in the fuse. Simply stuffi ng them into place
with foam rubber is not suffi cient.
4. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it
❏
has a strain relief inside the fuselage to keep tension
off the solder joint inside the receiver.
5. Balance your model laterally as explained in
❏
the instructions.
6. Use threadlocking compound to secure critical
❏
fasteners such as the set screws that hold the wheel
axles to the struts, screws that hold the carburetor
arm (if applicable), engine bolts, etc.
7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will
❏
turn freely.
8. Make sure all hinges are securely glued
❏
in place.
Page 33
9. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA
❏
where appropriate (servo mounting screws, cowl
mounting screws, etc.).
10. Confi rm that all controls operate in the correct
❏
direction and the throws are set up according to
the manual.
11. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all
❏
the clevises and that all servo arms are secured to
the servos with the screws included with your radio.
12. Secure connections between ser vo wires and
❏
Y -connectors or servo e xtensions, and the connection
between your battery pack and the on/off switch with
vinyl tape, heat shrink tubing or special clips suitable
for that purpose.
13. Mak e sure any servo e xtension cords y ou ma y
❏
have used do not interfere with other systems (ser vo
arms, pushrods, etc.).
14. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and
❏
are not kinked.
15. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
❏
16. Tighten the propeller nut and cone.
❏
17. Place your name, address, AMA number and
❏
telephone number on or inside your model.
18. Cycle y our receiver battery pack (if necessary)
❏
and make sure it is fully charged.
19. If you wish to photograph your model, do so
❏
before your fi rst fl ight.
20. Range check your radio when you get to the
❏
fl ying fi eld.
The fi nal variant of the P-47 was the P-47N-25
rolling off the Republic F armingdale production line
in 1945. The “N” featured squared-off clipped wing
tips and an increased wingspan to accommodate
four additional 50-gallon internal wing tanks. The
goal of increasing range to fulfi ll the roll of bomber
escort (and to become more competitive with the
P-51 Mustang) was accomplished.
PREFLIGHT
IDENTIFY Y OUR MODEL
No matter if you fl y at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site
or if you fl y somewhere on your own, y ou should always
have your name, address, telephone number and AMA
number on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA
R/C club fl ying sites and AMA sanctioned fl ying events.
Fill out the identifi cation tag on page 36 and place it on
or inside your model.
CHARGE THE BA TTERIES
Follow the battery charging instructions that came with
your radio control system to charge the batteries. You
should always charge your transmitter and receiver
batteries the night before you go fl ying, and at other
times as recommended by the radio manufacturer.
CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with your
radio system state differently, the initial charge on new
transmitter and receiver batteries should be done for
15 hours using the slow-charger that came with the radio system. This will “condition” the batteries so that
the next charge may be done using the fast-charger
of your choice. If the initial charge is done with a fastcharger the batteries may not reach their full capacity
and you may be fl ying with batteries that are only
partially charged.
GROUND CHECK AND RANGE CHECK
Run the engine for a few minutes to make sure it idles
reliably, transitions smoothly and maintains full power
indefi nitely. Afterward, shut the engine off and inspect
the model closely, making sure all fasteners, pushrods
and connections have remained tight and the hinges
are secure. Always ground check the operational range
of your radio before the fi rst fl ight of the day following
the manufacturer’s instructions that came with your
radio. This should be done once with the engine off
and once with the engine running at various speeds. If
the control surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fl y! Find and correct the problem fi rst. Look for loose
servo connections or broken wires, corroded wires on
old servo connectors, poor solder joints in your battery
pack or a defective cell, or a damaged receiver crystal
from a previous crash.
33
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Failure to follow these safety precautions may
result in severe injury to yourself and others.
Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high
heat, sparks or fl ames, as fuel is very fl ammable. Do
not smoke near the engine or fuel; and remember that
engine exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly carbon
monoxide. Therefore do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.
Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
operate engines.
Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand;
the propeller may throw such material in your face or
eyes.
Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away
from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start
and run the engine.
Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing,
shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such
as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shir t or
jacket pockets into the prop.
Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the
engine. Do not use your fi ngers to fl ip the propeller.
Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating
propeller.
The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after
operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so
fuel will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fi re.
To stop a gasoline powered engine an on/off switch
should be connected to the engine ignition. Do not thro w
anything into the propeller of a running engine.
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)
Read and abide by the following excerpts from the
Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For the
complete Safety Code refer to Model A viation magazine,
the AMA web site or the Code that came with your AMA
license.
Page 34
GENERAL
1) I will not fl y my model aircraft in sanctioned events,
air shows, or model fl ying demonstrations until it has
been proven to be airworthy by having been previously,
successfully fl ight tested.
2) I will not fl y my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid fl ying
in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary,
an observer shall be utilized to supervise fl ying to avoid
having models fl y in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for
the fl ying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately
fl y my models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous
manner.
5) I will not fl y my model unless it is identifi ed with my
name and address or AMA number, on or in the model.
Note: This does not apply to models while being fl own
indoors.
7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any
device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of
any kind).
RADIO CONTROL
1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment
ground check before the fi rst fl ight of a new or repaired
model.
2) I will not fl y my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualifi ed fl ier, unless assisted
by an experienced helper.
3) At all fl ying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all fl ying takes place with
the other side for spectators. Only personnel involved
with fl ying the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of
the fl ight line. Intentional fl ying behind the fl ight line is
prohibited.
4) I will operate my model using only radio control
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
Communications Commission.
5) I will not knowingly operate my model within
three miles of any pre-existing fl ying site except in
accordance with the frequency sharing agreement
listed [in the complete AMA Safety Code].
9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person
touch a powered model in fl ight; nor should any part of
the model other than the landing gear, intentionally
touch the ground, except while landing.
Since the Giant P-47D ARF qualifi es as a “giant scale’
model and is therefore eligible to fl y in IMAA events,
we’ve printed excerpts from the IMAA Safety Code
which follows.
IMAA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)
Defi nition:
For the purpose of the following IMAA Safety Code, the
term Giant Scale shall refer to radio controlled model
aircraft, either scale or non-scale, which have a wingspan
of 80 inches [2032mm] or more for monoplanes and
60 inches [1524mm] or more for multi-winged model
aircraft and have a ramp w eight (fueled and ready to fl y)
of 55lbs. [24.75kg.] or less.
Section 1.0: SAFETY STANDARD
1.1 Adherence to Code: This safety code is to be strictly
followed.
1.2 The most current AMA Safety Code in effect is to
be observed. However, the competition sections of the
code may be disregarded.
Section 3.0 Safety Check
3.4 Flight Testing: All Giant Scale R/C aircraft are
to have been fl ight tested and fl ight trimmed with a
minimum of six fl ights before the model is allowed to
fl y at an IMAA Sanctioned event.
3.5 Proof of Flight: The completing and signing of
the Declaration section of the Safety Inspection for m
by the pilot (or owner) shall document as fact that
each aircraft has been successfully fl ight-tested and
proven airworthy prior to an IMAA event.
Section 5.0: Emergency Engine Shut Off (kill switch)
5.1 All magneto spark ignition engines must have a coil
grounding switch on the aircraft to stop the engine. This
will also prevent accidental starting of the engine. This
switch shall be readily av ailable to both pilot and helper.
This switch is to be operated manually and without the
use of the radio system.
34
5.2 Engine with battery power ignition systems must
have a s witch to turn off the power from the battery pack
to disable the engine from fi ring. This will also prevent
accidental starting of the engine. This switch shall be
readily available to both pilot and helper. This switch
shall be operated manually and without the use of the
radio system.
5.3 There must also be a means to stop the engine from
the transmitter. The most common method is to close the
carburetor throat completely using throttle trim. Ho wever ,
other methods are acceptable. This requirement applies
to all glow/gas ignition engines regardless of size.
Section 6.0: RADIO REQUIREMENTS
6.1 All transmitters must be FCC type certifi ed.
6.2 FCC Technician or high-class license required for 6
meter band operation only.
Additional IMAA General Recommendations
The following recommendations are included in the
Safety Code not to police such items, but rather to offer
basic suggestions for enhanced safety.
Servos need to be of a rating capable to handle the
loads that the control surfaces impose upon the servos.
Standard servos are not recommended for control
surfaces. Servos should be rated heavy-duty. For fl ightcritical control functions a minimum of 45 inch/ounces of
torque should be considered. This should be considered
a minimum for smaller aircraft and higher torque servos
are strongly encouraged for larger aircraft. The use of
one servo for each aileron and one for each elevator
half is strongly recommended. Use of dual servos is
also recommended for larger aircraft.
On-board batteries shall be 1000 mAh up to 20 lbs.,
1200 mAh to 30 lbs., 1800 mAh to 40 lbs. and 2000
mAh over 40 lbs. fl ying weight. The number and size
of the servos, size and loads on control surfaces, and
added features should be considered as an increase
to these minimums. Batteries should be able to sustain
power to the onboard radio components for a minim um
of one hour total fl ying time before recharging.
Both redundant and fail-safe battery systems are
recommended.
There is no minimum engine displacement limit, as
it is the position of this body that an underpowered
Page 35
aircraft presents a greater danger than an overpowered
aircraft. However, the selection of engine size relative
to airframe strength and power loading mandates good
discretionary judgment by the designer and builder.
Current AMA maximums for engine displacement are
6.0 cu. in. for two-stroke and 9.6 cu. in. for four-stroke
engine. These maximums apply only to AMA Sanctions
concerning competition events (such as 511, 512, 515
and 520) and, as such, the maximums apply. All IMAA
(non competition) events should be sanctioned as Class
“C” events, in which these engine size maximums do
not apply.
Generally, it is recommended that no attempt should be
made to fl y a radio controlled model aircraft with a gasoline
engine in which the model aircraft weight would exceed
twelve (12) pounds (underpowered) per cubic inch of
engine displacement, or be less than fi ve (5) pounds
(overpowered) per cubic inch of engine displacement.
Example: Using a 3 cu. in. engine, a model would likely
be underpowered at an aircraft weight greater than 36
pounds. With the same engine , an aircraft weighing less
than 15 pounds would likely be overpowered.
Servo arms and wheels should be rated heavy duty.
Glass-fi lled servo arms and control horns are highly
recommended.
Control surfaces linkages are listed in order of
preference:
1. Cable system (pull-pull). A tiller bar is highly
recommended along with necessary bracing.
2. Arrow Shaft, fi berglass or aluminum, 1/4" or 5/16" [6
or 8mm] O.D. bracing every six (6) to ten (10) inches is
highly recommended.
3. Tube-in-tube (nyrod). Bracing every few inches is
highly recommended. Inner tube should be totally
enclosed in outer tube.
4. Hardwood do wel, 3/8" O .D . bracing e very six (6) to ten
(10) inches is highly recommended.
Hinges should be rated heavy duty and manufactured
for Giant Scale use primarily. Homemade and original
design hinges are acceptable if determined to be
adequate for the intended use.
Clevis (steel, excluding heavy duty ball links) and
attachment hardware should be heavy duty 4-40
threaded rod type. 2-56 threaded size rod is acceptable
for some applications (e.g. throttle). Clevis is to have
lock nuts and sleeve or spring keepers.
Propeller tips should be painted or colored in a visible
and contrasting manner so as to increase the visibility of
the propeller tip arc.
FLYING
The Giant P-47D ARF is a great-fl ying model that fl ies
smoothly and predictably. The Giant P-47D ARF does
not, however, possess the self-recovery characteristics
of a primary R/C trainer and should be fl own only by
experienced R/C pilots.
FUEL MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS
A fully cowled engine may run at a higher temperature
than an un-cowled engine. For this reason, the fuel
mixture should be richened so the engine runs at about
200 rpm below peak speed. By running the engine
slightly rich, you will help prevent dead-stick landings
caused by overheating.
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES T O ALL R/C AIRPLANES):
If, while fl ying, you notice an alarming or unusual
sound such as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate
control surface fl utter. Flutter occurs when a control
surface (such as an aileron or elevator) or a fl ying
surface (such as a wing or stab) rapidly vibrates up
and down (thus causing the noise). In extreme cases,
if not detected immediately, fl utter can actually cause
the control surface to detach or the fl ying surface to fail,
thus causing loss of control followed by an impending
crash. The best thing to do when fl utter is detected is to
slow the model immediately by reducing power, then
land as soon as safely possible. Identify which surface
fl uttered (so the problem may be resolved) by checking
all the servo grommets for deterioration or signs of
vibration. Mak e certain all pushrod linkages are secure
and free of play. If it fl uttered once, under similar
circumstances it will probably fl utter again unless the
problem is fi xed. Some things which can cause fl utter
are; Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting control horns
solidly; Poor fi t of clevis pin in hor n; Side-play of wire
pushrods caused by large bends; Excessive free play
in servo gears; Insecure servo mounting; and one of
the most prevalent causes of fl utter; Flying an overpowered model at excessiv e speeds.
35
TAKEOFF
If you are using the optional air retracts, remember to
pump them up before each fl ight. Before you get ready
to takeoff, see how the model handles on the ground by
doing a few practice runs at low speeds on the runway.
Hold “up” elevator to keep the tail wheel on the ground.
If necessary, adjust the tail wheel so the model will roll
straight down the runway. If you need to calm your nerves
before the maiden fl ight, shut the engine down and bring
the model back into the pits. Top off the fuel, then check
all fasteners and control linkages for peace of mind.
Remember to takeoff into the wind. When you’re ready,
point the model straight down the runway, hold a bit of
up elevator to k eep the tail on the ground to maintain tail
wheel steering, then gradually advance the throttle. As
the model gains speed decrease up elevator allowing the
tail to come off the ground. One of the most important
things to remember with a tail dragger is to always be
ready to apply right rudder to counteract engine torque.
Gain as much speed as your runway and fl ying site will
practically allow before gently applying up ele vator , lifting
the model into the air. At this moment it is likely that
you will need to apply more right rudder to counteract
engine torque. Be smooth on the ele v ator stic k, allowing
the model to establish a gentle climb to a safe altitude
before turning into the traffi c pattern.
FLIGHT
For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffi c, it
is a good idea to have an assistant on the fl ight line
with you. Tell him to remind you to throttle back once the
plane gets to a comfortable altitude. While full throttle
is usually desirable for takeoff, most models fl y more
smoothly at reduced speeds.
Take it easy with the Giant P-47D ARF for the fi rst few
fl ights, gradually getting acquainted with it as you gain
confi dence. Adjust the trims to maintain straight and
level fl ight. After fl ying around for a while, and while still
at a safe altitude with plenty of fuel, practice slow fl ight
and execute practice landing approaches by reducing
the throttle and lowering the fl aps to see how the model
handles at slower speeds. Add power to see how she
climbs as well. Contin ue to fl y around, executing v arious
maneuvers and making mental notes (or having your
assistant write them down) of what trim or C.G. changes
may be required to fi ne tune the model so it fl ies the way
Page 36
you like. Mind your fuel level, but use this fi rst fl ight to
become familiar with your model before landing.
LANDING
One of the keys to landing a giant-scale model is to
maintain suffi cient airspeed throughout the landing
approach. An unusually high airspeed is not necessary,
but those unfamiliar with landing giant-scale models are
sometimes deceived by the model’s larger size. Larger
models often appear to be closer than they actually are.
Additionally , most giant-scale models slo w down rapidly,
thus causing the uninitiated to land short. To avoid this
initial illusion, make your landing pattern closer than you
normally might for a .40-size sport model. Also, don’t
pull the throttle all the way back and leave it there the
way you normally would. Instead, momentarily pull the
throttle all the way back, but then advance it a “click” or
two to keep the engine RPM up and maintain airspeed.
Once over the runway y ou can cut the throttle the rest of
the way and the model will slow for the landing fl are.
The Giant P-47D ARF may be landed with or without
fl aps. Flaps increase lift and drag, so the plane may be
landed slower, thus reducing rollout after touchdown
(not as much of a factor on grass runways). To initiate
a landing approach, reduce the throttle while on the
downwind leg. If using fl aps, allow the model to slow
before extending them. Continue to lose altitude, but
maintain airspeed by keeping the nose down as you
turn onto the crosswind leg. Make your fi nal turn toward
the runway (into the wind) keeping the nose down to
maintain airspeed and control. If using fl aps, k eep a few
additional “clicks” of power so the model doesn’t slow
too much. Le vel the attitude when the model reaches the
runway threshold, modulating the throttle as necessary
to maintain your glide path and airspeed. If you are going
to overshoot, smoothly advance the throttle (always
ready on the right rudder to counteract torque) and
retract the fl aps when enough airspeed is gained. Climb
out to make another attempt. When the model is a foot
or so off the deck, smoothly increase up elevator until it
gently touches down. Once the model is on the runway
and has lost fl ying speed, hold up elevator to place the
tail on the ground, regaining tail wheel control.
(on dead-stick landings it is common to land with no fl aps
at all). Without engine power, fl aps can unexpectedly
reduce the model’s range , thus causing you to come up
short of the fi eld.
One fi nal note about fl ying your Giant P-47D ARF. Have
a goal or fl ight plan in mind for every fl ight. This can be
learning a new maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s)
you already know, or learning how the model behaves
in certain conditions (such as on high or low rates).
This is not necessarily to improve your skills (though it is never a bad idea!), but more importantly so you
do not surprise yourself by impulsively attempting a
maneuver and suddenly fi nding that you’ve run out of
time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be
deliberate, not impulsive. For example, if you’ re going to
do a loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction
(anticipating rudder corrections that will be required to
maintain heading), remember to throttle back at the top,
and make certain you are on the desired rates (high/
low rates). A fl ight plan greatly reduces the chances of
crashing your model just because of poor planning and
impulsive moves. Remember to think.
Have a ball! But always stay in control
and fl y in a safe manner.
GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
Name
Address
City, State, Zip
AMA Number
Phone Number
This model belongs to:
GEAR DOOR DRILL GUIDE
Note: If ever the occasion arises when a dead-stick
landing must be performed, do not extend the fl aps until
certain the model will be able to reach the landing zone
36
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