Top Flite A0700 INSTRUCTION BOOK

WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does

not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite‘s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Fur ther, Top Flite reserves

the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed

nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assemb led product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all resulting

liability.If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product,the buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in ne w and unused

condition to the place of purchase.

Top Flite Models • 3002 N Apollo Drive Suite 1 • Champaign, IL 61822 • Technical Assistance Call [phone] • [e-mail]

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

TOPZ2000 for TOPA0700 V1.0

Entire Contents © Copyright 2003

Wingspan: 84.5 in [2145mm] Wing Area: 1245 sq in [80 dm

2

]

Weight: 19–24 lbs [8620–10890g]

Wing Loading: 35–44 oz/sq ft [107–134g/dm

2]

Length: 73 in [1855mm] Scale: 19%

Radio: 6 to 9-channel with 10 to 11 servos

Engine: 2.1–2.8 cu in [34.5–46cc] two-stroke glow,

2.5–4.3 cu in [41–70cc] spark ignition (gas)

™

GIANT P-5

GIANT P-5

1D MUST

1D MUST

ANG ARF

ANG ARF

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Engine recommendations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Radio equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Retractable landing gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Hardware and Accessories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Adhesives and Building Supplies . . . . . . . . . . .5

Optional Supplies and Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

KIT INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS . . . . . . . . .7

ASSEMBLE THE WINGS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Hinge the ailerons and flaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Mount the servos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Hook up the servos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Mount the retracts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Mount the landing gear covers

and wheel covers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Install the air lines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Join the wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Install the fixed landing gear . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Hinge the elevators and rudder . . . . . . . . . . .19

Glue in the stabilizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Install the cockpit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Mount the tail gear doors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Mount the retractable tail gear . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Mount the fixed tail gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Hook up the elevators and rudder . . . . . . . . .26

Mount the engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Mount the cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Install the air tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Install the fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Hook up the throttle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Hook up the air lines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Mount the kill switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Finish the engine compartment . . . . . . . . . . .33

MOUNT THE SCALE DETAILS . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Radiator air scoop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Wing fairing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Wing fillets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Machine guns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Engine exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Canopy and pilot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Apply the decals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY . . . . . . . . . .37

Complete the radio installation . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Balance the model (CG) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

Balance the model laterally . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

Check the control directions . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

Set the control throws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

Balance propellers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40

Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40

PREFLIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

Identify your model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

Charge the batteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

Ground check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

Range check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . .41

AMA SAFETY CODE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

IMAA SAFETY CODE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

FLYING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43

Takeoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Flight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Landing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Engine mount template . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Top

Flite Giant P-51D Mustang ARF.With the high quality of

today’s ARFs, it was only a matter of time before Top

Flite would develop an ARF warbird of their own—and

what better place to start than with the most popular

WWII warbird of all time—the P-51D Mustang! The

Mustang’s streamlined appearance combined with Top

Flite’s engineering expertise makes this one sweet

model! If you are new to giant-scale warbirds , once over

the initial apprehension of flying a valuable giant-scale

model you’ll realize its stable flight qualities and find

yourself enjoying it for many flights to come. Although

this Mustang is an ARF, it is

giant

and it is

scale

, so it’s

not exactly going to be ready to fly overnight! For the

fastest, most pleasurable assembly experience, be

certain to read all of the instructions and read each

step before proceeding.

If you have w eb access, visit the Top Flite web site at

www.top-flite.com for the latest technical updates or

manual corrections. Open the “Airplanes” link, then

select

Giant P-51D Mustang ARF

. If there are any

changes or updates a “Tech Notice” box will appear in

the upper left corner of the page. Open the box to view

the information.

IMAA

The Top Flite Giant P-51D Mustang ARF is an

excellent sport-scale model and is eligible to fly in

IMAA events. The IMAA (International Miniature

Aircraft Association) is an organization that

promotes non-competitive flying of giant-scale

models.If you plan to attend an IMAA event, order a

copy of the IMAA Safety Code by contacting the

IMAA at the address or telephone number below, or

by logging on to their web site at

www.fly-imaa.org/imaa/sanction.html.

IMAA

205 S. Hilldale Road

Salina, KS 67401

[phone]

SCALE COMPETITION

Though the giant P-51 is an ARF and may not hav e the

same level of detail as an “all-out” scratch-built

competition model, it is a scale model nonetheless and

is therefore eligible to compete in the

Fun Scale

class in

AMA competition. In Fun Scale, the “builder of the

model” rule does not apply.To receive the five points f or

scale documentation, the only proof required that a full

size aircraft of this type in this paint/markings scheme

did exist is a single sheet such as a kit box cover from

a plastic model, a photo, or a profile painting, etc. If a

black-and-white photo is used, other written

documentation of color must be provided. Contact the

AMA for a rule book with full details.See page 3 for the

AMA contact information.

If you would like photos of the full-size P-51D Mustang

for scale documentation, or if you would lik e to study the

photos to add more scale details, photo packs are

available from:

Bob’s Aircraft Documentation

3114 Y uk on Ave

Costa Mesa, CA 92626

Telephone: [phone] Fax: [phone]

e-mail: www.bobsairdoc.com

- 2 -

1. Your Top Flite Giant P-51D Mustang ARF should not

be considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working

model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.

Because of its performance capabilities, the Giant P-

51D Mustang ARF, if not assembled and operated

correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or

spectators and damage to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the

instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as

doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model.

In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly

from the photos. In those instances the written

instructions should be considered as correct.

3. Y ou must tak e time to build straight,true and strong.

4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-

class condition, and a correctly sized engine and

components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the

building process.

5. You must correctly install all R/C and other

components so that the model operates correctly on

the ground and in the air.

6. You must check the operation of the model before

every flight to insure that all equipment is operating and

that the model has remained structurally sound.Be sure

to check clevises or other connectors often and replace

them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.

7. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot,

you should fly the model only with the help of a

competent, experienced R/C pilot.

8. While this kit has been flight tested to exceed

normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely

high stress flying, such as racing, the modeler is

responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high

stress points.

9. WARNING: The cowl, radiator air scoop, and

other parts included in this kit are made of

fiberglass, the fibers of which may cause eye, skin

and respiratory tract irritation. Never blow into a part

(air scoop, cowl) to remove fiberglass dust, as the

dust will blow back into your eyes. Always wear

safety goggles, a particle mask and rubber gloves

when grinding, drilling and sanding fiberglass parts.

Vacuum the parts and the work area thoroughly

after working with fiberglass parts.

Remember: Take your time and follow the

instructions to end up with a well-built model

that is straight and true.

If you have not flown this type of model before, we

recommend that you get the assistance of an

experienced pilot in your R/C club for your first

flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local

hobby shop has information about clubs in your area

whose membership includes experienced pilots.

In addition to joining an R/C club, we strongly

recommend you join the AMA (Academy of Model

Aeronautics). AMA membership is required to fly at

AMA sanctioned clubs. There are over 2,500 AMA

chartered clubs across the country. Among other

benefits, the AMA provides insurance to its

members who fly at sanctioned sites and events.

Additionally, training programs and instructors are

available at AMA club sites to help you get started

the right way. Contact the AMA at the address or toll-

free phone number below:

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you

with a top quality kit and great instructions, but

ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished

model depends on how you build it;therefore, we

cannot in any way guarantee the performance of

your completed model, and no representations

are expressed or implied as to the performance or

safety of your completed model.

PRO TECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF & OTHERS

FOLLO W THESE IMPORT ANT

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

- 3 -

Function. . . . . . . . . . . . Servos required

Elevators. . . . . . . . . . . . 2 (min. 50 oz-in torque)

Rudder . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 (min. 50 oz-in torque)

Ailerons. . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 (min. 50 oz-in torque)

Flaps. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Tail steer ing. . . . . . . . . . 1

Throttle . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Air control valve. . . . . . . 1

Optional Kill switch

for gas engine . . . . . . . . 1

Total: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10-11 servos

A receiver battery with a minimum of 1,000 mAh

is recommended for flying the giant Mustang. In

the model shown in this instruction manual a

Futaba NR4F 1,500 mAh battery pack

(FUTM1285) is shown. Additionally, the battery

voltage should be checked before every flight to

be certain it has enough “charge.”

In addition to the servos (and Synchronized Servo

Reverser if used), the following items (or similar

items) are also required. The order numbers

shown (in parentheses) are for Futaba servos.

❏ (2) 24" [610mm] ser vo extension wires for the

aileron servos (FUTM2721)

❏ (1) Dual ser vo extension cord for aileron

servos (FUTM4130)

❏ (1) Y-harness for flap servos (HCAM2751)

❏ (4) 6" [150mm] ser vo extensions (battery-1,

aileron-1, elevator-2) (HCAM2701 for Futaba)

Note: The length and quantity of servo extensions

and Y-connectors may vary depending on the brand

of radio you are using and the radio installation.

prevent accidental starting. The switch must be

operated manually (without the use of the

transmitter) and accessible by the pilot and

assistant. If using a spark-ignition engine, refer to

Mount the kill switch

on page 32 for details and

a list of items used.

RADIO EQUIPMENT

The radio equipment and number of channels

required to fly the Top Flite Giant P-51 depend on

the capabilities of your transmitter and how the

servos will be connected.Two servos are required

to operate the elevators. However, the servos

must move in opposition, so linking them with a Y-

connecter will not work.The elevator servos must

either be electronically mixed using an additional

channel, or be linked by a device such as a

Futaba

®

SR-10 Synchronized Servo Reverser

(FUTM4150) that will mix the servos with the

capability of reversing one of them.

The rudder servo and tail steering servo have the

same requirement, so they too must either be

electronically mixed through an additional

channel, or connected via a Futaba Synchronized

Servo Reverser.

The Giant P-51 requires a servo to operate the air

control valve if using retracts, a throttle servo, two

flap servos and two aileron servos. Servos with a

minimum of 50 oz-in [3.9 kg-cm] of torque are

required for operating the elevators, rudder and

ailerons. Standard servos may be used

everywhere else. If using a spar k-ignition engine,

a servo-operated electronic engine kill switch may

also be used (this would be in addition to the

IMAA-required, manually operated engine kill

switch). A servo-operated kill switch is only really

necessary for engines that do not reliably shut off

by closing the carburetor, but could also serve as

a backup.

This is a partial list of items required to finish this

model that may require planning or decision

making before starting to build. Order numbers

are provided in parentheses.

ENGINE RECOMMENDATIONS

When considering engines for this model, refer to

the engine size recommendations on the cover of

the manual. Spark-ignition (“gas”) engines are

most popular with large-scale warbirds such as

this. One advantage of a gas engine is

economy—gas engines tend to consume less fuel

than glow engines. Gasoline costs less than glow

fuel as well.Additionally , gas engines deposit little

exhaust residue on the model. Among other

engines, this model was flight-tested with a U.S.

Engines

™

41cc engine. The U.S. 41 provides

adequate power and flies the P-51 in a scale-like

manner, but pilots who wish to perform more

aggressive maneuvers should consider engines

nearer the upper end of the recommended range.

Note: Instructions for mounting every possible

engine cannot be incorporated into this manual.

Although there are several glow engines suitable

for powering the giant P-51, the U.S. Engines

41cc is featured. Modelers using another engine

may refer to the instructions as a guide for

mounting their engine in a similar way. If using the

U.S.41, the following items will be required:

❏Great Planes Gasoline Engine Mount (GPMG2000)

❏ (4) 1/4-20 x 1-1/2" [38mm] hex-head bolts

and 1/4" [6mm] flat washers

❏ Prop Reamer (GPMQ5005)

Per the IMAA Safety Code, magneto spark-

ignition engines must have a coil-grounding

switch on the aircraft to stop the engine and

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

- 4 -

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

HARDWARE AND ACCESSORIES

In addition to the items listed in the “Decisions Y ou

Must Make” section, following is the list of hardware

and accessories required to finish the Top Flite Giant

P-51D Mustang ARF. Order numbers are provided in

parentheses.

❏ R/C foam rubber (1/4" [6mm] (HCAQ1000) or

1/2" [13mm] (HCAQ1050)

❏ 2’ [600mm] large silicone fuel tubing for glow

engines (GPMQ4133)

❏ 3’ [900mm] gasoline fuel tubing for gas engines

(GPMQ4135)

❏ Williams Bros. #625 3" (1/4-scale) standard pilot

(WBRQ22625)

❏ Modeling paints and paint brushes for painting pilot

❏ Propeller and spare propellers suitable for

your engine

ADHESIVES AND BUILDING SUPPLIES

In addition to common hobby tools and household

tools, this is the “short list” of the most important

items required to build the Top Flite Giant P-51D

Mustang ARF.

Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy

glue are recommended.

❏ 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)

❏ 1 oz. Medium CA (GPMR6008)

❏ 1 oz. Thin CA (GPMR6002)

❏ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)

❏ CA Activator (2 oz.[57g] spray bottle (GPMR6035)

or 4 oz. [113g] aerosol (GPMR634)

❏Threadlocker thread locking cement (GPMR6060)

❏ Hobby torch or soldering iron

❏ Silver solder w/flux (GPMR8070)

❏ Dr ill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 3/32" [2.4mm], 7/64"

[2.8mm] (or 1/8" [3.2mm]), 1/8" [3.2mm], 3/16"

[4.8mm], #9 [5.0mm], 1/4" [6.4mm], size “F"

[6.5mm] (or 17/64" [6.8mm]), 17/64" [6.8mm]

(or 9/32" [7.2mm])

❏ Small metal file

❏ Acr ylic paint and paint br ushes for painting pilot

(found at craft stores)

❏ Stick-on segmented lead weights (GPMQ4485)

❏ #1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)

❏ #11 blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)

❏ #11 blades (100-pack, HCAR0311)

❏ Non-elastic str ing for stab alignment (such as K

& S #801 Kevlar thread (K+SR4575)

❏ Fine-point felt-tip pen (Top Flite

®

Panel Line Pen

(TOPQ2510)

❏ Masking tape (TOPR8018)

❏ Cur ved-tip canopy scissors for trimming plastic

parts (HCAR0667)

❏ Aluminum paint and airbrush or paint br ush (for

painting cockpit)

❏ Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402)

OPTIONAL SUPPLIES AND TOOLS

Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the

manual that will help you build the Top Flite Giant

P-51D Mustang ARF.

❏ R/C-56 canopy glue (JOZR5007)

❏ CA debonder (GPMR6039)

❏ 3M 77 spray adhesive (MMMR1990)

❏ Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060)

❏ Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)

❏ Mixing cups (GPMR8056)

(Continued on page 8)

RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR

The Top Flite Giant P-51 ARF may be assembled

with either the included fixed landing gear or

retractable landing gear. If fixed landing gear is

used no other items will need to be purchased to

install the gear. If you wish to install retractable

landing gear, this model is designed for Robart

pneumatic retracts. Following is the complete list

of items required to install the Robart retracts:

❏ (1) Robart #622-5 Top Flite P-51 pneumatic

retractable main landing gear (ROBQ1635)

❏ (1) Robart #160LWC retractable tail gear

assembly (ROBQ2225)

❏ (1) Robart #157VRX Large-Scale Deluxe Air

Control Kit—includes pressure vessel, air line

tubing, variable-rate air valve, T-fittings

(ROBQ2305)

❏ 10’ [3.5m] red & pur ple #169 Pressure tubing

(ROBQ2369)

❏ (1 pkg.) #190 Air Line Quick Disconnects

(ROBQ2395)

❏ (2) Du-Bro No. 500TL Treaded lightweight

wheel (DUBQ0847)

❏ Size “F” [6.5mm] or 17/64" [6.8mm] drill (to

enlarge the hole in the wheels for the axles)

❏ 1-3/4" [45mm] tailwheel (GPMQ4220 –2/pkg)

Note: There may be other main wheels that could

be used with the Robart retracts, but the Du-Bro

wheels listed above are the only ones

recommended because they are narrow and will

fit in the wing.

An air pump will also be required to pressurize the

air tank. The Robar t hand pump could be used,

but is not practical because of the large capacity

of the air tank in this model. A small, 12V electric

pump is recommended and can be purchased at

any automotive or hardware store.

- 5 -

KIT INSPECTION

Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to

make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make

sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are

missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need

assistance with assembly, contact Product Support.

When reporting defective or missing parts, use the part

names exactly as they are written in the kit contents list

on this page.

Top Flite Product Support

3002 N Apollo Drive Suite 1

Champaign, IL 61822

Telephone: [phone]

Fax: [phone]

E-mail:

PARTS PHOTOGRAPHED

1. Fuselage 2. Rudder

3. Canopy 4. Fiberglass cowl

5. Fiberglass air scoop 6. Fiberglass wing fairing

7. Cockpit parts 8.Tail gear doors

9.Wing joiner 10.Landing gear covers

11.Wings with flaps & ailerons

12. Horizontal stabilizer with elevators

13. (2) Fiberglass wing fillets

14. (2) Plastic machine guns

15. (2) Plastic engine exhaust outlets

16. (8) Engine mount spacers

17.Wheel covers

18. Servo hatches

PARTS NOT PHOTOGRAPHED

sheet-metal screws:

(34) #2 x 3/8" (24-wing servo hatches, 6-landing

gear covers, 4-wheel covers)

(28) #4 x 1/2" Phillips-head (24-all control horns

except rudder, 4-tail gear mounting)

(8) #4 x 5/8" Phillips-head (4-rudder control horn,

4-cowl mounting)

(12) #6 x 1/2" (landing gear mounting)

(8) #2 x 1/2" (2-landing gear covers, 2-fuel tank

floor, 4-forward servo tray)

(8) #2 x 3/16" (canopy mounting)

machine screws:

(4) 2-56 x 3/8" (tail gear door brackets)

(4) 4-40 x 3/8" (4-cowl reinforcement glue on)

pushrods:

(4) 4-40 x 4" wire pushrods (2-ailerons, 2-flaps)

(3) 4-40 x 36" wire pushrods (2-elevators, 1-rudder)

(6) 3/16" pushrod guide tubes (5-factory-installed in

fuselage, 1-throttle)

(1) 36" white, plastic pushrod (throttle)

(1) 2-56 x 4" pushrod (air valve)

nylon hardware:

(7) large control horns (2-ailerons, 2-flaps,

2-elevators, 1-rudder)

(2) 1/4-20 x 2" nylon wing bolts

(1) ball link (throttle)

(2) nylon clevis (1-throttle, 1-air valve)

(14) pinned hinge points (for ailerons and flaps)

metal hardware:

(7) 4-40 threaded metal clevises (2-ailerons,

2-flaps, 2-elevator, 1-rudder)

(7) Large solder clevises (2-ailerons, 2-flaps,

2-elevator, 1-rudder)

- 6 -

1

2

12

5

3

4

15

16

17

9

14

14

13

8

18

6

10

11

11

7

- 7 -

nuts:

(11) 4-40 hex nuts (7-clevis jam nuts,

4-cowl reinforcements)

(6) 1/4-20 blind nuts (factory-installed – 4-engine

mounting, 2-wing bolts)

(4) 2-56 hex nuts (tail gear door brackets)

(3) 0-80 hex nuts (2-ball link balls on tail steering

arm, 1-throttle on engine)

washers:

(6) #2 washers (4-wheel covers, 2-fuel tank floor)

(4) #4 washers (4-cowl mounting)

(4) #4 lock washers (4-cowl mounting)

other:

(2) 3/8" [9.5mm] heat shrink tubing (for servo

extensions)

(1) 1/2" [13mm] heat shrink tubing (for servo

extensions)

(16) silicone retainers (clevises)

(1) 2" x 9" [50 x 230mm] CA hinge strip

(3) 0-80 ball link balls (2-tail steering arm, 1-throttle)

(4) size 10 rubber bands (tail gear doors)

(1) 32 oz. [960cc] Great Planes fuel tank and

hardware

(2) #64 rubber bands (for fuel tank mounting)

(1) 2-56 x 1" [25mm] threaded rod (throttle pushrod)

(2) Decal sheets

(1) V elcro

®

strap

(2) plywood air tank mounting rings

(1) plywood air tank former

(2) 2" x 2" [50 x 50mm] plywood wing bolt plates

(w/1/4" hole)

(6) plywood air line guides

(1) plywood air valve mount

(6) 1/16" x 7/8" [1.5 x 22mm] plywood cowl

reinforcements (for mounting screws)

(6) 1/2" x 13/16" x 13/16" [12 x 20 x 20mm]

hardwood cowl mounting blocks

(8) 3/8" x 13/16" x 13/16" [10 x 20 x 20mm]

hardwood servo mounting blocks

(8) 1/2" x 1/2" x 7/8" [13 x 13 x 23mm] wheel cover

mounts (4 req’d., 4 spares)

(1) hardwood “L” block (for tail gear door)

(2) 1/16" [2mm] plywood large rubber band hooks

(with spacer)

(2) 1/16" [2mm] plywood small rubber band hook

(with spacer)

(2) 3/8" x 1-3/4" [10mm x 45mm] hardwood

wing dowels

(2) plywood aft servo trays

(2) plywood forward servo trays

(1) plywood fuel tank mount

(2) bent aluminum tail gear door brackets

(4) nylon pinned hinges (for tail gear doors)

(1) 1/8" x 1/4" x 2" [3 x 6 x 50mm] balsa stick (for

gluing on instrument panel)

(1) 1/4" x 1/4" x 12" [6 x 6 x 300mm] hardwood

stick (for forward servo tray)

(1) 1/16" x 3/8" x 1-9/16" [1 x 10 x 40mm] plywood

tail gear door stop

(1) 1/8" x 12" hardwood dowel (for cowl mount blocks)

(2) 3/4" x 3/4" x 7" [20 x 20 x 180mm] balsa sticks

(for gluing on engine exhaust stacks)

Cockpit parts (photographed)

instrument panel

floor

seat bottom

seat back

right panel

left panel

wing joiner

Pull/Pull cable contents:

(1) Steel cable

(4) Copper tubes (swages)

(2) 2mm metal clevises

(2) 2mm brass couplers

(2) 2mm nuts

Fixed landing gear components:

(2) 5" [125mm] main wheels

(2) landing gear mounts

(4) metal straps

(8) 3 x 10mm screws

(2) main landing gear wires

(4) 6mm wheel collars

(3) 1/8" wheel collars

(8) 3mm set screws

tail gear mount

tail gear wire

2" [45mm] tail wheel

steering arm

1.5mm hex wrench

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS

To order replacement par ts for the Top Flite Giant

P-51D Mustang ARF, use the order numbers in the

Replacement Parts List that follows. Replacement

parts are available only as listed. Not all par ts are

available separately (an aileron cannot be

purchased separately, but is only available with the

wing kit). Replacement par ts are not available from

Product Support, but can be purchased from hobby

shops or mail order/Internet order firms. Hardware

items (screws, nuts, bolts) are also available from

these outlets. If you need assistance locating a

dealer to purchase parts, visit www.top-flite.com

and click on “Where to Buy.” If this kit is missing

parts, contact Product Support.

REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST

Description How to purchase

Missing pieces . . . . . . . .Contact Product Support

Instruction manual . . . . .Contact Product Suppor t

Full-size plans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Not available

Contact your hobby supplier

to purchase these items

TOPA1650 Fuse set (fuselage, wing fairings, tail

wheel doors, brackets, etc.)

TOPA1651 Wing set (ailerons, flaps, fiberglass air

scoop, guns, wheel covers)

TOPA1652 Tail set

TOPA1653 Cowl (w/exhausts)

TOPA1654 Cockpit kit

TOPA1655 Decal set

TOPA1656 Canopy

(Continued from page 5)

❏ Scale Warbird Template (TOPQ2187)

❏ 36" [1m] metal r uler (HCAR0475)

❏ Hobbico Duster

™

can of compressed air

(HCAR5500)

❏ Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)

❏ Receiver mounting box (GPMM1010)

❏ Switch & Charge Jack Mounting Set

(GPMM1000)

❏ Fuel filler valve for glow fuel (GPMQ4160)

❏ Fuel filler valve for gasoline (GPMQ4161)

❏ Rotar y tool such as Dremel

®

❏ Rotar y tool reinforced cut-off wheel

(GPMR8200)

❏ AccuThrow

™

Deflection Gauge (GPMR2405)

❏ CG Machine

™

(GPMR2400)

❏ Laser incidence meter (GPMR4020)

❏ 36" [910mm] bar for incidence meter

(GPMR4021)

❏ Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer

™

(TOPQ5700)

COVERING T OOLS

❏ 21st Centur y

®

sealing iron (COVR2700)

❏ 21st Centur y iron cover (COVR2702)

❏ 21st Centur y tr im seal iron (COVR2750)

Note: The stabilizer and wing incidences and

engine thrust angles have been factory-built into the

giant Mustang. However, some technically-minded

modelers may wish to check these measurements

anyway.To view this information, visit the web site at

and click on “Technical Data.” Due to manufacturing

tolerances which will have little or no effect on the

way the model will fly, there may be slight deviations

between your model and the published values.

ASSEMBLE THE WINGS

Hinge the ailerons and flaps

Start with the left wing so yours matches the

photos the first time through.

❏❏1. Lay a few paper towels on top of each other

and cut them into small squares.These paper towel

squares will come in handy for wiping away excess

epoxy throughout the assembly process (and will

save you from wasting whole paper towels!).

❏❏2. Separate the aileron and flap from the wing

by peeling off the masking tape holding them

together. Use a paper towel square dampened with

naphtha lighter fluid or similar solvent to remove any

glue left from the tape.

❏❏3. If necessary , use a co vering iron with a covering

sock to go over the wing, flap and aileron to remove

1/64" = .4mm

1/32" = .8mm

1/16" = 1.6mm

3/32" = 2.4mm

1/8" = 3.2mm

5/32" = 4mm

3/16" = 4.8mm

1/4" = 6.4mm

3/8" = 9.5mm

1/2" = 12.7mm

5/8" = 15.9mm

3/4" = 19mm

1" = 25.4mm

2" = 50.8mm

3" = 76.2mm

6" = 152.4mm

12" = 304.8mm

15" = 381mm

18" = 457.2mm

21" = 533.4mm

24" = 609.6mm

30" = 762mm

36" = 914.4mm

METRIC CONVERSIONS

To convert inches to millimeters,

multiply inches by 25.4 (25.4mm = 1")

The Top Flite Giant P-51D Mustang ARF is

factory covered with Top Flite MonoKote

®

film.

Should repairs ever be required, following is a

list of colors used on this model and order

numbers for 6’[1.8m] rolls.

❏ Aluminum TOPQ0205 (base color)

❏ Flat olive drab TOPQ0510 (anti-glare)

❏ Black TOPQ0208 (rudder,

nose checkers)

❏White T OPQ0204 (nose checkers)

❏ Tr ue red TOPQ0227 (pin striping)

- 8 -

wrinkles. The best way is to glide the iron over the

covering until the wrinkles disappear, then go over the

area again, pushing down on the iron to bond the

covering to the wood.If the wrinkles don’t go away, the

balsa in that area may be bending inward. If this is

happening, don’t press down.Simply let the heat of the

iron shrink the covering. If the wrinkles momentarily

disappear, then immediately reappear, the iron may be

too hot, thus causing air bubbles. Lower the

temperature of the iron or use a sharp #11 blade to

puncture several holes in the co v ering, then reheat.The

suggested iron temperature is around 360 degrees F.

❏❏4. Cut the covering from the holes for the hinge

points in the trailing edge of the wing and the leading

edge of the flap and aileron.There are three holes for

the aileron and four holes for the flap. Note that the

holes in the flap and aileron are elongated.

❏❏5. Shorten one of the pinned hinge points by

cutting the last segment off one end. This hinge will

be for the outermost hole in the aileron.

❏❏6. Without using any glue, install three hinges into

the aileron. The one shortened in the previous step

goes in the hole nearest the outer tip. Note that the

pivot point of each hinge must align with the center of

the radius on the leading edge. To achieve this

alignment the hinges will be fairly deep in the aileron.

Also note that the hinges must be perpendicular to the

leading edge. If necessary, use an electric drill to run a

3/16" [4.8mm] drill bit into the holes to achieve this

alignment. Be careful not to drill through the sheeting

over the top and bottom of the aileron.

❏❏7. Again without glue, test fit the aileron to the

wing. Move it up and down a few times to align the

hinges—it doesn’t have to move very far—only 3/4"

[19mm] up and 3/4" [19mm] down (measured at the

widest part of the aileron at the trailing edge as shown

in the photo). If there is too much resistance, or if you

are not able to move the aileron up and down 3/4"

[19mm], widen the gap between the aileron and the

wing by pulling the aileron from the wing slightly, or

enlarge the hinge openings in the aileron.

❏❏8. Still using no glue, test fit the flap to the wing

the same way. 2-1/8" [55mm] of down deflection is

required (measured at the widest part of the flap).

We’ll glue on the flap and ailer on separately.This

way you will have plenty of working time for

the epoxy.

❏❏9. Remove all the hinges. Add a small drop of

oil to the pivot point on the aileron hinges.

- 9 -

HINGE PIVOT POINT

3/4"

3/4"

❏❏10. Mix up some 30-minute epoxy and

microballoons (if using mixing cups, approximately

1/4 oz. of microballoons added to 1/8 oz. of mixed

epoxy is recommended). Use a piece of music wire

to thoroughly apply the mixture in the holes in the

wing and aileron.Use the wire to get the epoxy out of

the opening of the holes in the aileron so it doesn’t

get into the hinge pins.Wipe awa y any epoxy around

the outside of the holes with a couple of the small

paper towel squares.

❏❏11. Use the wire to apply epoxy to the ends of

the aileron hinges that go into the aileron.Insert each

hinge and wipe away an y epoxy that squeezes out of

the holes.

❏❏12. Apply epoxy to the other end of the hinges.

Join the aileron to the wing, pushing the hinges only

about 3/4 of the way in. Use small strips of balsa or

toothpicks to wipe away epoxy that squeezes out,

then fit the aileron the rest of the way in.

❏❏13. Move the aileron up and down a few times

to align the hinges and make certain you are getting

enough deflection. Use a small piece of masking

tape to hold the tip of the aileron in alignment with

the tip of the wing. Allow the epoxy to fully harden.

❏❏14. Mix up another batch of epoxy and microballoons

and join the flap to the wing the same way.

❏❏15. Allow the epoxy to fully harden before

moving the aileron or flap. After the epoxy has fully

hardened, “break” them loose by rapidly moving

them up and down a couple of times.

❏ 16. Join the right aileron and flap to the right wing

the same way.

Mount the servos

❏❏1. Use a straightedge and a hobby knife to cut

the covering approximately 1/4" [5mm] inside the

edges of one of the openings for the servo hatch in

the bottom of one of the wing halves. (You can save

the piece of MonoKote you cut out for small patches

or repairs.)

❏❏2. Slit the covering up to the corners (indicated

by the arrows).

❏❏3. Cut the remaining three servo hatch

openings the same way.

❏❏4. Use a trim iron to iron the covering to the edges

of the openings and to the plywood ledge inside.

- 10 -

❏❏5. Notice the correct locations of the aileron and

flap servos on the inside of the hatches (indicated by

the dashed lines).Refer to these photos when mounting

the servos to the hatches in the following steps.

Now it’s time to mount the servos to the hatch

covers. Start with the left aileron servo.

Refer to this photo for the following se ven steps.

❏❏6. Make a one-arm ser vo arm by cutting off the

unused arms.(The outer hole in the servo arm must be

at least 3/4" [19mm] from the center of the output shaft.)

❏❏7. Place the servo on the aileron hatch cover

as shown, then place the arm on the servo

(remember, this is for the left aileron).

❏❏8. Take the servo off the hatch cov er.Position two

3/8" x 13/16" x 13/16" [10 x 20 x 20mm] hardwood

servo mounting blocks on the servo (one of the

blocks may have to be trimmed to accommodate the

servo wire where it comes out of the servo).The wood

grain in the blocks runs vertically.

❏❏9. Place a piece of thin cardstock (such as from

the header card that some servos are packaged on)

under the servo and between each mounting block and

the servo. Later, the cardstock will be removed, thus

providing adequate spacing for vibration isolation.

❏❏10. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the blocks

for the mounting screws. Mount the servo to the

blocks with the screws that came with the servo.

Remove the cardstock spacers.

❏❏11. Mount the left flap servo to two more

mounting blocks the same way.

❏❏12. Mix some 30-minute epoxy for gluing the

mounting blocks to the hatch covers. Smear a thin coat

of epoxy on the inside of the hatch covers in the area

where the mounting blocks will be glued. Thoroughly

coat the ends of the blocks that contact the cov ers.Wait

a few minutes for the mounting blocks to absorb the

epoxy, then recoat with the epoxy. Position the servos

with the mounting blocks on the covers so the servo

arms are centered in the openings. Use clamps or

weights to hold the mounting blocks to the hatch cov ers

until the epoxy hardens.

❏❏13. After the epoxy has fully hardened,

temporarily remove the servos from the mounting

blocks.Add a few drops of thin CA to the screw holes

and allow to fully harden.Remount the servos to the

blocks with the screws.

- 11 -

❏❏14. Place the hatch covers with the servos in

the wing. Be certain the hatch covers are positioned

correctly as shown in the photos back at step 5.Drill

six 1/16" [1.6mm] evenly spaced holes through the

hatch covers into the wing. Enlarge the holes in the

hatch covers only with a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill.

❏❏15. Connect a 24" [610mm] servo extension

wire to the aileron servo. Cut one of the pieces of 3"

[75mm] heat shrink tubing supplied with this kit in

half.Slip the tubing over the connection between the

servo and the extension wire, then carefully shrink

the tubing by heating with a heat gun.

❏❏16. Use the string in the wing to pull the aileron

wire through the wing. Mount the aileron hatch with

six #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] screws.

❏❏17. Guide the flap servo wire through the wing

alongside the aileron servo wire. Mount the flap

hatch with six more #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] screws.

❏18. Mount the aileron and flap servos and hatches

in the right wing the same way.

Hook up the servos

Do the left aileron first.

❏❏1. Referring to the photo above, cut the aileron

pushrod to the correct length, then solder it to a

large, non-threaded metal clevis using the

techniques described in the following Hot Tip.

This is what a properly soldered clevis looks like—

shiny solder with good flow, no blobs, flux removed.

2. Apply a few drops of soldering flux to the end

of the pushrod, then use a soldering iron or a

torch to heat it. “Tin” the heated area with

silver solder (GPMR8070) by applying the

solder to the end. The heat of the pushrod

should melt the solder—not the flame of the

torch or soldering iron—thus allowing the

solder to flow. The end of the wire should be

coated with solder all the way around.

3. Place the clevis on the end of the pushrod. Add

another drop of flux, then heat and add solder.

The same as before, the heat of the parts

being soldered should melt the solder, thus

allowing it to flow. Allow the joint to cool

naturally without disturbing. Avoid excess

blobs, but make cer tain the joint is thoroughly

soldered. The solder should be shiny, not

rough. If necessary, reheat the joint and allow

to cool.

4. Immediately after the solder has solidified, but

while it is still hot, use a cloth to quickly wipe

off the flux before it hardens.Important: After

the joint cools, coat with oil to prevent rust.

Note: Do not use the acid flux that comes with

silver solder for electrical soldering.

1. Use denatured alcohol or other solvent to

thoroughly clean the pushrod. Roughen the

end of the pushrod with coarse sandpaper

where it is to be soldered.

HOW T O SOLDER

- 12 -

❏❏2. Thread a 4-40 nut and a 4-40 metal clevis to

the other end of the pushrod.Connect the pushrod to

the aileron servo arm and to a large control horn.

Position the horn on the aileron directly behind the

arm. The base of the horn should be set back from

the trailing edge of the wing 1/4" [6mm]. Drill 3/32"

[2.4mm] holes into the aileron for the horn.Mount the

horn with four #2 x 1/2" [13mm] screws. Adjust the

length of the pushrod by turning the clevis so the

aileron will be neutral when the servo is centered

(this will be fine-tuned later when setting up the radio,

so there is no need to tighten the 4-40 nut to the

clevis until then).

❏❏3. Hook up the flap the same way.Note that the

flap is retracted (“up”) when the servo arm is rotated

aft (not when the servo arm is centered). Be cer tain

the control horn is set back far enough so it will not

contact the wing at full flap deflection.

❏❏4. One last IMPORTANT step; remove the screws

from both servo hatches and both control horns. Add a

few drops of thin CA to all the holes, allow to fully

harden. Remount the hatches and horns.

❏ 5. Mount the hatches and hook up the aileron and

flap on the right wing the same way.

Mount the retracts

Install the left retract first.

❏❏R1. The same as the covering was cut from the

aileron hatches, cut the covering from the landing gear

opening 1/4" [5mm] inside the edges all the way around

the opening. Use a trim iron to iron down the covering.

❏❏R2. Enlarge the hole in the Du-Bro 5" [127mm]

wheels (not included) with a size “F” [6.5mm] (or

17/64" [6.8mm]), drill (size F will provide the best fit,

but a 17/64" hole is suitable).

❏❏R3. Cut the 1/4-20 bolts that come with the

Robart retracts to a length of 1-3/4" [45mm]. Slip the

washer follow ed by the wheel and a n ut onto the bolt.

Add a small drop of threadlocker to the nut, then

tighten the assembly to the retract strut,

simultaneously adjusting the spacing of the nut so

the wheel will roll freely.

❏❏R4. Test fit the retract unit with the wheel into the

wing.Position the retract so the wheel is centered in the

wheel well. It will probably be necessary to raise the

strut into the retract body approximately 1/8" [3mm] to

achieve the correct spacing all the way around.

Note: Steps with an “R” are for mounting

retracts. Steps with an “F” are for mounting the

included fixed landing gear. The fixed gear will

not be installed until after the wings have been

joined. If mounting the fixed landing gear

proceed to “Join the wings” on page 16.

- 13 -

❏❏R5. Extend the retract. View the wheel from

directly above.Adjust the strut so the wheel has zero,

to one degree of tow-in. Lock the strut in position by

securely tightening the bolt on top of the strut.

❏❏R6. Double-check to be certain the wheel will

fully retract into the wing. Extend the unit to make

certain it does not interfere with any part of the wing

and the unit is operating smoothly.

❏❏R7. Hold the retract body in the wing. Using the

mounting holes as a guide, drill 7/64" [2.8mm] (or

1/8" [3.2mm]) holes into the rails. CAUTION: Do not

inadvertently drill into the air cylinder when you get to

the middle hole! Mount the retract with six #6 x 1/2"

[13mm] screws.

❏ R8. Return to step R1 and mount the other retract

in the right wing the same way.

Mount the landing gear covers and

wheel covers (for retractable landing gear only).

❏❏R1. Mark, but do not drill, the locations of the

four screws where shown in the photo that will be

used for mounting the landing gear covers (the

locations are indicated by the arrows in the photo).

Use a fine-point felt-tip pen to draw reference marks

on the wing, noting the locations of the screws.

❏❏R2. Install the 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood landing

gear cover .Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the cover

into the wing where the marks would cross.Remove the

cover. Enlarge the holes in the cover only with a 3/32"

[2.4mm] drill. Mount the cover with three #2 x 3/8"

[9.5mm] screws and one #2 x 1/2" [13mm] screw.

❏❏R3. Place two hardwood wheel cover mounts

on the strut. Mark the angle of the wing onto the

mounts. Note: Only two mounts per wing half are

required (but extras are provided in case you

accidentally cut one too short or at the wrong angle).

❏❏R4. Cut or sand the mounts at the angles you

just marked.

The wheel covers on this model represent the

ones on the full-size P-51, but are not 100%

scale. They achieve the best of both worlds in

that they have a scale appearance with

simplified assembly. Fully scale, operating,

sequencing doors could have been featured on

this model, but would require above average

building skills and detract from the every day

flying utility of this model.

- 14 -

❏❏R5. Use coarse sandpaper to thoroughly

roughen the inside of the fiberglass wheel cover

where the braces will go. Cut two braces from a

3/32" x 1/4" x 19-1/2" [2 x 6 x 500mm] hardwood stick

to the length shown in the photo.Use medium CA to

glue the braces into position. The braces should be

inset 1/16" from the edges of the wheel cover.

❏❏R6. Reposition the mounts on the strut. Place

the fiberglass wheel cover on the mounts. The

wheel cover should be even with the bottom of the

wing. If necessary, make adjustments to the angle

cut on the mounts until the wheel cover fits. If you

end up cutting the mounts too short, tr y again with

the extras provided.

❏❏R7. The same way y ou dre w the ref erence marks

for drilling the holes in the hatch, mark and drill the

holes in the wheel cover and the wheel cover mounts.

❏❏R8. Mount the wheel cover to the mounts with

two #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] screws and #2 washers.

❏❏R9. Use a 1/2" [15mm] strip of coarse

sandpaper to remove the paint and roughen the

struts where the mounts go.

❏❏R10. With the wheel covers still attached to the

wheel cover mounts, glue the mounts to the struts

with 30-minute epoxy. Use masking tape with pieces

of R/C foam underneath to hold the mounts to the

struts and to hold the wheel covers in position.

❏❏R11. After the epoxy from the previous step

has fully hardened, remove the tape and extend the

gear by hand.Make certain that the gear can operate

freely and that there is no interference between the

wheel cover and the wing. If necessary, trim the

wheel cover for a good fit, and/or adjust the height

and angle of the wheel cover by gluing thin balsa

“shims” to the top of the wheel cover mounts.

❏❏R12. Use one of your paper towel squares

dampened with denatured alcohol to wipe the reference

drawn on the bottom of the wing. Remove the wheel

cover. Add a few drops of thin CA to the holes in the

wheel cover mounts.Remount the wheel covers.

❏ R13. Retur n to step one and repeat the procedure

to mount the hatch and wheel cover to the other gear.

Install the air lines

❏

R1. Before installing the air lines, cut the covering

from the hole in the front of both wing halves for the

3/8" [10mm] wing dowels. Glue the dowels in with

30-minute epoxy. (The wings in the photo are joined,

but your wings should not yet be joined.)

Now to the air lines (start with the left wing)…

❏❏R2. Remove the retract hatch and the retract

from the left wing. Add a few drops of thin CA to the

screw holes.

❏❏R3. Cut the covering from the holes in the top

of the wing for the servo wires and the air line tubing.

- 15 -

❏❏R4. Cut a 21" [530mm] piece of red air line

tubing and a 16" [400mm] piece of purple air line

tubing from the tubing included with the Robart Air

Control Kit (not included). Connect the red line to the

outer fitting on the air cylinder and connect the

purple line to the inner fitting (the one directly on the

end) on the air cylinder.

❏❏R5. Use a piece of music wire with a hook bent

on the end or something similar to pull the air lines

through the wing. Note that the purple line goes

through the same hole that the air cylinder fits

through, and the red line goes through the round

hole behind it.

❏❏R6. Guide the air lines out the front hole in the

top of the wing and guide the servo wires out the

other hole.

❏❏R7. Mount the retract in the wing. Use a small

screwdriver to move the end of the pushrod coming

from the air cylinder in the retracted (up) position so

the gear doesn’t flop around while joining the wings.

Install the hatch.

❏ R8. Hook up the air lines in the r ight wing panel

the same way.

Join the wing

Note: Keep the retracts (if installed) in the retracted

(up) position so they do not extend and retract as

you handle the wing.

Because the angle of wing joiner and the angle

of the ribs on the end of the wing panels is

factory-set, checking the dihedral, as would be

done on a built-up kit, is not necessary .However ,

for those who insist on checking the dihedral

anyway, this may be done by test fitting the

wings together with the wing joiner.Tightly tape

the wing halves together. The joining r ibs on the

end of both panels should fit well with no gap.If

the wing halves do not fit well, remove any glue

blobs or other obstructions that may be

interfering. Once the joining ribs of the two wing

halves fit well, lay the wing upside-down on your

workbench. Measure the distance between the

top of the wing and the workbench at the leading

edge.Also measure the distance from the top of

the wing and the workbench at the trailing edge.

The sum of these two distances should be

5-3/16" [130mm] plus or minus 1/2" [13mm].

- 16 -

❏ 1. Test fit the wing joiner in one, then the other

wing half. The plywood side goes forward. Test join

the wings with the joiner. Make any necessary

adjustments so the wings fit together well.

❏ 2. Gather everything required for gluing the wings

together including 30-minute epoxy, mixing sticks,

epoxy brushes, a 12" [300mm] piece of wire or a

small dowel (for spreading epoxy), small paper towel

squares, denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up),

masking tape, #64 rubber bands and mixing cups.

❏ 3. Mix up 2 oz. of 30-minute epoxy. Working

quickly, pour a generous amount into one wing half

where the joiner goes. Use your wire or dowel to

thoroughly distribute the epoxy, coating all surfaces

inside the wing.Coat the end of the wing and the half of

the joiner that goes in the wing with the epoxy, then

insert the joiner.Proceed immediately to the next step.

❏ 4. Coat the other side of the joiner and the inside

of the other wing the same way. Join the wings, then

stand the wing on-end with one of the tips resting on

the floor (use a piece of R/C foam or something

similar to cushion and stabilize the wing tip so it won’t

slide around).

❏ 5. With the wing resting on end, use paper towel

squares to wipe up excess epoxy as it squeezes out.

Wrap #64 rubber bands around the trailing edges of the

wing inboard of the flaps and around the wing dowels.

A clamp could be used at the wheel wells also. Add

several strips of masking tape to tightly hold the wings

together as you continue to wipe awa y e xcess epo xy as

it squeezes out. Be certain the leading and trailing

edges of the wing accurately align. Do not disturb the

wing until the epoxy has fully hardened.

Perform step R6 only if you have installed

retracts.

❏ R6. Join the matching air lines from each wing

half with a couple of T-fittings that came with the air

control kit. Cut two 10" [250mm] pieces of air line

(also from the air control kit) and fit each line to the

“T” fittings. Connect one quick-connector with an

O-ring to one of the lines and one quick connector

without an O-ring to the other line.This will prevent

improper connection to the quick-connectors on the

air valve when mounting the wing to the fuselage.

Note: When joining critical components such as

the wing, it is imperative to coat all joining parts

with epoxy. In other words, don’t coat only one of

the contacting end ribs. Coat the end ribs of

both wing panels. Similarly, don’t just coat the

joiner. Also coat the insides of the wing where

the joiners go.

- 17 -

❏ 7. Since the aileron servo wires already have

extensions on them, they only require a short

Y-connector such as the Futaba

®

dual extension cord

(FUTM4130). Longer wires are needed for the flap

servos, so a Hobbico

®

Y-connector (HCAM2751) was

used there. Secure the connections with a small

piece of heat shrink tubing included with this kit.

❏ 8. Cut the covering from the holes in the top and

bottom of the wing for the nylon wing bolts.

The radiator air scoop and wing fairing will be

attached later.

If you’ve installed retracts, proceed to “ASSEMBLE

THE FUSELAGE” on page 19.

Install the fixed landing gear

❏F1. Use a rotary tool with a cutoff wheel or a metal

file to grind a flat spot near the end of both prebent

main landing gear wires for the set screw in the

outer wheel collar that holds the wheels on.

❏ F2. The same as the covering was cut from the

aileron hatches, cut the covering from the landing

gear openings 1/4" [5mm] inside the edges all the

way around the openings. Use a trim iron to iron

down the covering.

❏ F3. Place both fixed landing gear mounts on the

landing gear rails. The mounts are the same, but the

part with the straps goes toward the leading edge of the

wing. Using the holes in the mounts as a guide, drill six

7/64" [2.8mm] (or 1/8" [3.2mm]) holes into the rails.

❏ F4. Mount each main landing gear wire in the

landing gear mount with two metal straps and four 3

x 10mm screws. Fasten the landing gear mounts to

the rails with six #6 x 1/2" [13mm] screws.

❏ F5. Mount the wheels to the landing gear with a

wheel collar on both sides of both wheels. Use a

small drop of thread locking compound on all the set

screws and make sure the set screw in the outer

wheel collars that hold on the wheels is keyed into

the flat spots. Use the included 1.5mm wrench to

tighten the set screws.

❏F6. Refer to steps R1 and R2 on page 14 to fit and

install the plywood landing gear covers.

The radiator air scoop and wing fairing will be

attached later.

- 18 -

ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE

Hinge the elevators and rudder

❏ 1. Cut twelve 1" x 1" [25 x 25mm] CA hinges from

the supplied 2" x 9" [50 x 230mm] CA hinge strip.Cut

off the corners so the hinges go in easier.

❏ 2. Test fit one of the elevators to the stab with four

hinges. If the hinge slots are too tight, they can be

“loosened” by inserting a hobby knife and moving it

from side-to-side. Note that it’s the back side of the

blade that does the work.

❏ 3. Make a small slit in the elevator and stab on

both sides of all four hinges. These small slits will

indicate the ends of the hinge slots.

❏ 4. Remove the elevator. Cut a small strip of

covering from each hinge slot in the stab and

elevator between the slits. Drill 3/32" [2.4mm] holes,

1/2" [15mm] deep in the middle of all the hinge slots.

A Moto-Tool with a cutting bit works well for this.

These “tunnels” will allow the CA to fully penetrate

the hinge slots when it’s time for permanently joining

the elevators to the stab later on.

❏ 5. Prepare the rest of the hinges and the hinge

slots in the stab and the other elevator and the

rudder and fin the same way. Do not glue in the

hinges until instructed to do so.

Glue in the stabilizer

Before proceeding, a building stand is required for

working on the fuselage. In the R&D shop we prefer

the Robart

®

Super Stand II (ROBP1402).

❏ 1. The same as you did the wing, use a covering

iron to remove any wrinkles in the fuselage, stab and

elevators. Remember to press down over sheeted

areas (except where the wood bows inward).

Hint: Use a pin to poke four or fiv e holes beside each

rib in the top and bottom of both elevators to allow air

to escape while shrinking the covering.

Note: The following three steps describe how to

prepare the hinge slots for gluing in the CA hinges.

This procedure may appear to be “more involved”

than one would prefer for an ARF, but you will be

rewarded with close, clean hinge gaps and free-

moving, securely hinged surfaces.

NOTES ABOUT CA HINGES

This kit is supplied with CA hinge material

consisting of a 3-layer lamination of Mylar and

polyester specially made for hinging model

airplanes. When properly installed, this type of CA

hinge provides the best combination of strength,

durability and easy installation.Your giant P-51 and

other giant warbirds like it have been thoroughly

tested with these hinges, but it isessential to install

them correctly. Follow the hinging instructions in

this manual for the best result. The techniques

shown have been developed to ensure thorough

and secure gluing.

- 19 -

1"

1"

❏ 2. Cut the covering from the openings in both

sides of the fuselage for the stabilizer. Also cut the

covering from the elevator pushrod tubes on both

sides of the fuselage and from the rudder tube on the

left side of the fuselage.

❏ 3. Slide the stabilizer into the fuselage. Center the

trailing edge of the stab in the fuselage by taking

accurate measurements along the trailing edge.

❏4. Insert a pin through the top of the fuselage over

the middle stringer at the firewall. Tie a loop in one

end of a 60" [1.5m] piece of non-elastic line such as

monofilament or Kevlar line (K+SR4575). Slip the

loop in the string over the T-pin.

❏ 5. Fold a piece of masking tape over the string

near the other end and draw an arrow on it.Slide the

tape along the string and align the arrow with one

end of the stab as shown in the photo. Swing the

string over to the other end of the stab and hold it in

the same position. Keeping the trailing edge of the

stab centered from side-to-side, move the stab tips

forward or back as necessary until the arrow aligns

with both ends of the stab.

❏ 6. Use a fine-point felt-tip pen such as a Top Flite

®

Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510) to mark the outline of

the fuselage on the top and bottom of the stab.

❏7. Remove the stab from the fuselage.Use a sharp,

new #11 hobby blade or use the following Hot Tipto cut

the covering from the stab along the lines.Use care to

cut only into the covering and not into the wood.

Cutting into the balsa will weaken the structure.

❏ 8. Peel the covering from the top and bottom of

the center of the stab.Remove any ink from the stab

and fuse with a paper towel square dampened with

denatured alcohol. Re-seal the ends of the covering

to the stab where it may have lifted while peeling off

the middle.

One more alignment procedure before gluing

the stab into the fuselage…

To avoid cutting into the balsa, use a soldering

iron instead of a hobby knife to cut the covering.

The tip of the soldering iron doesn’t have to be

sharp, but a fine tip does work best.Allow the iron

to heat fully. Use a straightedge to guide the

soldering iron at a rate that will just melt the

covering and not burn into the wood. The hotter

the soldering iron, the faster it must be moved to

melt a fine cut.

HOW TO CUT COVERING FROM BALSA

- 20 -

❏ 9. Bolt the wing to the fuselage with two 1/4-20 x

2" [50mm] nylon wing bolts. Center the stab in the

fuselage. Stand approximately ten feet behind the

model and view the stab and wing. If the stab and

wing align with each other, proceed to the next step.

If the stab and wing do not align, but are close, place

a small weight on the “high side” of the stab to see if

you can bring it into alignment. If weight is not

enough, remove the stab from the fuselage and

lightly sand the slots in the fuselage as necessary to

align the stab with the wing. Reinsert the stab and

check the alignment.

❏ 10. When ready to permanently glue the stab into

the fuselage, wrap one side of the stab with a plastic

bag or wax paper. This will protect the stab from

epoxy when sliding it into the fuse.

❏ 11. Thoroughly coat the slot in the fuselage

where the stab fits and the top and bottom of the

stab where it joins the fuselage with 30-minute

epoxy. Slide the stab into position. Remove the

protective plastic wrapped around the stab in the

previous step. Wipe off excess epoxy. Recheck the

stab alignment the same as was done in the

previous steps. Do not disturb the fuse until the

epoxy has fully hardened.

❏ 12. Stick a T-pin through the middle of four hinges

to keep them centered. After the epoxy on the stab

has hardened, join the elevators to the stab with the

hinges and remove the T-pins. Make a small gap

between the stab and elevators—just enough to see

light through or to slip a piece of paper through.

Allowing enough time between drops to allow the CA

to soak in, add six to eight drops of thin CA to both

sides of all the hinges. Hint: Use a CA applicator tip

so the CA can be applied directly to the hinges.

❏ 13. Join the rudder to the fin with the hinges and

glue them in the same way.

Install the cockpit

Refer to this photo while working on the cockpit.

❏ 1. Use small scissors or curved-tip scissors (such

as Kyosho

®

or Great Planes) to cut out the cockpit

sides. Do not cut the lip from top. Trim the aft edge

(the edge with the angle) of both sides so they will fit

between the formers in the cockpit.

Installation of the included semi-scale cockpit kit is

optional. If you prefer not to install the complete

cockpit, all that has to be done is to paint the

existing balsa cockpit area and add the instrument

panel decal. Should you decide to install the

cockpit, keep in mind that although this model is an

ARF, the included cockpit kit is a starting platform.

Should you wish to add more detail, study photos

of a full-size P-51 cockpit, then decide how to

proceed. Many of the mechanisms can be added

or enhanced simply with a fine paint brush and a

selection of plastic model paint.Whatever pilot y ou

decide to use should be test fit before gluing any of

the cockpit parts into position in case any

modifications are required.

- 21 -

❏ 2. Cut out the instrument panel. There is no lip

around the top.Trim the sides as necessar y to fit in

the fuselage.

❏ 3. Glue the 1/8" x 1/4" x 2" [3 x 6 x 50mm] balsa

stick to the balsa instrument panel in the fuselage.

Temporarily fit the cockpit sides and the instrument

panel into position.

❏ 4. Use small scissors or curved-tip scissors to

rough-cut out the canopy.The best way is to do it in

three steps—each time getting closer to the finished

outline. First, cut away the biggest pieces. Then cut

closer, but no closer than 1/8" [3mm] from the final

cut. Finally, cut to the final shape all the way around,

then true the edges by sanding.

❏ 5. Cut out the cockpit floor to fit between the

formers.Cut out the seat back, leaving a 1/8" [3mm]

lip all the way around.From inside the fuselage, raise

the floor up to the cockpit sides. Holding the floor in

position, lower the seat back into the cockpit.

Temporarily place the canopy on the fuselage. Make

certain there is approximately 3/16" [5mm] clearance

between the top of the seat back and the top of the

canopy. Tr im the seat back if necessary.

❏6. Now that you understand how it all fits, sand the

edges of all the cockpit parts straight and true. Add

any additional details you prefer, then use medium

CA to securely glue in the cockpit parts.

❏ 7. Add any other final details to the cockpit you

prefer .On our model we added 600-grit sandpaper to

the cockpit floor aft of the seat.

- 22 -

If installing fixed landing gear, skip to “Mount

the fixed tail gear” on page 26.

Mount the tail gear doors

❏ R1. Cut the covering from the tail gear opening in

the bottom of the fuselage.

❏ R2. Make two large and two small rubber band

hooks by gluing together the 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood

pieces as shown.

❏R3. Use medium-grit sandpaper to roughen one side

of all four nylon pinned hinges so glue will adhere.

Carefully oil the hinge pin area with a small drop of

household oil or a small dab of petroleum jelly.

❏R4. Use medium CA to glue two of the hinges and

one of the small rubber band hooks to the left door

as shown. The hook should be 2" [50mm] from the

front of the door and the tab on the hook should be

raised from the surface so a rubber band can be

hooked around it.Also note that the pin portion of the

hinges is on the outer edge of the door as shown in

the close up photo.

❏R5. Prepare the other tail gear door the same way.

❏ R6. Move the hinges back and fourth several

times. If they are difficult to move, use a hobby knife

to pick out any CA that may have gotten into the pin.

❏ R7. Glue the large rubber band hooks to the

triangular balsa stick inside the door openings where

they will align with the small hooks on the doors.

Photos in the following steps show the hooks.

❏ R8. Holding the left door up to the wheel opening,

mark the locations of the hinges on the edge of the

opening. Cut 1/16" [2mm] notches at the marks and

bevel the tri-stock so the hinge pins will be even with

the bottom of the fuselage. Fit the right door the

same way.

❏ R9. Test fit both doors in the opening. Make

certain they will not interfere with each other when

permanently glued into position. Make adjustments

where necessary.

- 23 -

❏ R10. One at a time, glue the hinges on the doors

to the fuselage.There must be a 1/32" to 1/16" [1 to

2mm] gap between the top of the doors and the

bottom of the fuselage.

Mount the retractable tail gear

❏

R1. Remove the steering arm from the Robart

#160LWC retractable tail gear assembly (not

included).File a flat spot near the top of the shaft for

the set screw in the steering arm to lock onto.Mount

the steering arm to the shaft with a drop of

threadlocker and the set screw.

❏ R2. File another flat spot near the bottom of the

shaft for one of the set screws in the strut.Tighten

both set screws with a drop of threadlocker on each.

Be certain the steering ar m and the axle in the strut

remain parallel with each other.Make adjustments to

the flat spots if necessary.

❏ R3. If necessary, enlarge the hole in a 1-3/4"

[45mm] tail wheel (not included) with a #9 [5.0mm]

drill.Cut the axle included with the Robart retractable

tail gear to the correct length, then file a flat spot on

it and mount it to the assembly.

❏ R4. Fit a 0-80 ball link ball in the middle hole in

both sides of the steering arm as shown in the photo

at step 8. Secure each with a drop of threadlocker

and an 0-80 nut.

❏ 5. Use wire cutters to cut the supplied braided

cable into two equal lengths. Slide a small copper

tube (called a swage) over one end of one of the

cables, then guide the end of the cable bac k through.

❏ 6. Guide the cable the other way back through

the swage.

❏7. Use pliers to pull the short end of the cable until

the small loop doubles-over at the end of the

swage—but don’t pull too hard or you’ll pull the cable

back through.

- 24 -

❏ 8. Snip off the short end of the wire at the swage.

Slip the loop over one of the ball link balls on the

steering arm.Tighten the loop until it is small enough

to remain secure on the ball, yet may still be pried

off.Squeeze the sw age with pliers.Connect the other

cable to the other ball link ball the same way.

❏ R9. Mark the bent aluminum tail gear door

brackets “R” and “L” as shown in the photo. (The

dashed lines in the photo note the bends in the

brackets which will help identify the right one from

the left one.)

❏ R10. Mark, then drill two 3/32" [2.4mm] holes

through the right side of the tail gear for mounting the

right bracket. The metal is hard, so be patient while

drilling. Use a metal punch if you have one to dimple

the hole locations first.

❏ R11. Mount the r ight bracket with two 2-56 x 3/8"

[9.5mm] screws, a drop of threadlocker and 2-56 nuts.

❏ R12. Mount the left bracket the same way.

❏R13. Connect 40" [1m] of red air line to the aft fitting

on the tail gear air cylinder and 40" [1m] of purple air

line to the forwardfitting on the air cylinder.There is not

enough air line leftover from the main gear, so

additional line will have to be purchased separately

(Robart #169 Pressure Tubing).

❏14. Place the tail gear retract in the fuselage while

simultaneously guiding the pull/pull cable through the

gray plastic guide tubes and guiding the air lines up

through the fuselage.

❏ 15. Drill four 3/32" [2.4mm] holes through the rails

for mounting the tail gear. If your drill bit is not long

enough to reach the rail nearest the top of the

fuselage, use medium CA to temporarily glue a 3/32"

[2.4mm] drill bit in a 1/8" [3.2mm] brass tube. After

drilling the holes, the drill can be removed from the

tube by heating.

❏ 16. Mount the tail gear with four #4 x 1/2"

[13mm] screws.

❏ R17. Glue the hardwood “L” block directly to the

aluminum frame of the retract. Glue the 1/16" x 3/8"

- 25 -

RETRACT

FRAME

"L" BLOCK

x 1-9/16" [1 x 10 x 40mm] plywood tail gear door

stop to the inside of the sheeting on the bottom of

the fuselage.These will keep the doors from closing

too far. Hook two small rubber bands included with

this kit onto both pair of rubber band hooks.

❏ R18. Use the air pump that will be used to

pressurize the air tank or a can of compressed air to

retract and extend the tail gear a few times to make

sure everything operates correctly. Make

adjustments where required.Skip ahead to “Hook up

the elevators and rudder” on this page.

Mount the fixed tail gear

❏ F1. Cut the covering from the tail gear opening in

the bottom of the fuselage.

Refer to this photo for the following three steps.

❏ F2. File flat spots on the tail gear wire for the set

screw in the outer wheel collar that holds on the wheel,

and for the set screws in the wheel collar steering arm

that hold the tail gear wire in the tail gear mount. Mount

the tail wheel with two wheel collars and set screws

using a drop of thread locking compound.

❏ F3. Enlarge the holes in the steering arm with a

5/64" [2mm] or 3/32" [2.4mm] drill bit. Mount a 2-56

ball link ball to each arm with a 2-56 nut and a drop

of threadlocker.

❏ F4. Assemble the tail gear. Be certain to use

thread locking compound on all the set screws.Also

note that the steering arm should be perpendicular to

the tail wheel.

Perform steps 5,6,7 & 8 and steps 14, 15 & 16 on

pages 24 & 25 to connect the pull/pull cables to

the steering arm and to mount the tail gear in the

fuselage. When finished, proceed to “Hook up

the elevators and rudder.”

Hook up the elevators and rudder

Refer to this photo for the following three steps.

❏1. Cut 6" [150mm] from the unthreaded end of two

36" [910mm] wire pushrods. Connect the pushrods

to the middle hole in two nylon control horns with a

4-40 nut, threaded clevis and a silicone retainer.

Slide the pushrods into the elevator pushrod tubes in

both sides of the fuselage.

❏ 2. Mount the control horns to the elevators the

same way you mounted the control horns on the

flaps and ailerons (by drilling 3/32" [2.4mm] holes

and using #4 x 1/2" [13mm] screws—don’t forget to

harden the holes with thin CA after first installing,

then removing the screws).

❏ 3. Prepare the rudder pushrod and mount the

control horn the same way, only use #4 x 5/8"

[16mm] screws instead of 1/2" [13mm] screws.

- 26 -

❏ 4. Glue together both 1/8" [3mm] plywood aft

servo trays.Test fit the two elevator, one rudder and

one tail wheel servo in the tray. Make any

adjustments required so the servos fit.

❏ 5. Place the servo tray in the fuselage.

Refer to this photo while hooking up the servos.

❏ 6. Place all four servos in the servo tray. Make

three one-arm servo arms and one two-arm servo

arm from the arms that came with your servos. Place

the arms on the servos as shown in the photo.

❏ 7. The same as was done for the aileron and flap

pushrods, mark the elevator and rudder pushrods

where they are to be cut for soldering on the clevises .

One at a time, unthread each pushrod from the clevis

on the control horn, remove the pushrod from the

fuselage, cut it to the correct length, then solder on

the clevis. Reinstall the pushrod from the front, then

connect them to the servo arms and control horns.

Don’t forget to use a silicone retainer on all the

clevises and to install 4-40 nuts on the pushrods

ahead of the thread-on clevises.

❏ 8. Connect the two clevises with the threaded,

brass couplers and nuts on them to both ends of the

tail steering servo arm. Put a small piece of tape on

one of the pull/pull cables coming from the tail

steering arm. Center the tail wheel and slide the tape

along the cable to mark where it will be looped-over

to go into the brass coupler.

❏ 9. Take the servo arm off the tail steering servo

and disconnect the cable from the ball link on the

steering arm. Pull the cable up through the guide

tube. Use the tape as a reference for where to bend

the cable to loop it through the brass coupler .Secure

the cable to the coupler with a swage.

❏ 10. Guide the looped end of the cable back down

through the guide tube and reconnect it to the ball

link ball on the steering arm. Mark and connect the

other cable to the brass coupler on the other side of

the servo arm same way.

❏11. Mark the hole locations for the servo mounting

screws on the servo tray.Remove the servo tray, then

drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes at the marks. Screw, then

remove a screw in each hole .Add a few drops of thin

CA and allow to harden.

❏ 12. Securely glue the servo tray in the fuselage

with 30-minute epoxy. Mount the ser vos in the tray

and hookup the pushrods.

We’ll finish up the rest of the radio installation

and mount the components for the air system

after the engine has been mounted.

Mount the engine

The following instructions illustrate how to mount a

U.S. Engines 41cc gas engine. A Great Planes

Gasoline Engine Mount (GPMG2000—not included)

and the parts included with this model will provide

the correct alignment and spacing. If not using a

U.S. Engines 41cc engine, use the appropriate

hardware to mount your engine (or engine mount)

centered on the horizontal and vertical alignment

marks on the firewall. Note that the back of the

spinner backplate should be 7-1/2" to 7-3/4" [190 to

200mm] from the firewall.

❏ 1. If using a U.S. Engines 41cc engine, use the

engine mount template in the back of the manual to

mark the engine mounting bolt locations on a Great

- 27 -

Planes Gasoline Engine Mount. Drill 17/64" [6.8mm]

(or 9/32" [7.2mm]) holes at the marks. Cut off the

bottom of the mount as indicated on the template.

Mark the top and front of the mount as shown.

❏ 2. Remove the muffler and carburetor from the

engine. This will facilitate mounting the engine and

fitting the cowl.

❏ 3. The U.S. Engines 41cc is to be spaced

approximately 7/8" [22mm] from the mount (not

from the firewall). If your U.S. Engine came with the

1/2" [13mm] black, plastic engine mount spacer, glue

together three 1/8" [3mm] plywood engine mount

spacers. If your U.S. Engine did not come with the

black, plastic spacer , glue together seven1/8" [3mm]

plywood engine mount spacers. This is most easily

done by lightly coating the spacers with 30-minute

epoxy and using the bolts that came with the Great

Planes Gasoline Engine Mount to bolt the spacers to

the engine—do not over tighten the bolts, thus

deforming the plywood. Note: The straight edge of

the spacers goes on the right side of the fuselage.

❏ 4. After the epoxy on the engine mount spacer

has hardened, remove it from the engine and sand

the edges even and smooth.

❏ 5. Use 1/4-20 x 1-1/2" [40mm] bolts and 1/4"

[6.4mm] washers (not included) to mount the engine

with the plywood spacers and the plastic spacer (if

included with the engine) to the engine mount. Bolt

the engine mount to the firewall using the rubber

bushings, washers and bolts that came with it.

Mount the cowl

Refer to these photos for the following two steps.

❏1. Use a hobby knife and sandpaper to shape four

of the six supplied 1/2" x 13/16" x 13/16" [12 x 20 x

20mm] hardwood cowl mounting blocks to match

the shape of the fuselage and the cowl.

❏ 2. Thoroughly roughen the firewall in the four

locations where the cowl mounting blocks will go.

Coat the end of the blocks and the firewall with

30-minute epoxy. Allow the epoxy to “tack up” so the

blocks won’t fall off, then place them on the firewall.

Continue to monitor and reposition the blocks as

necessary until they will stay in place. Allow the

epoxy to fully harden.

❏ 3. After the epoxy from the previous step has

hardened, drill two 1/8" [3.2mm] holes through the

blocks and the firewall. Cut eight 1-1/4" [30mm]

pieces from the 1/8" x 12" [3.2 x 300mm] hardwood

dowel. Coat the dowels and the holes in the

mounting blocks with 30-minute epoxy, then use a

hammer to tap the dowels all the way in.

- 28 -

❏ 4. Mark the center of all four mounting bloc ks with

a pen. Lay a small ruler on the fuselage with one

edge over the mark. Use a felt-tip pen to draw a line

directly on the fuselage along the ruler.Mark another

line on the fuselage 2-1/2" [65mm] as shown from

the center mark on the mounting block. When the

cowl is in place the lines and measurements will

pinpoint the center of the blocks under the cowl.

❏ 5. Mark the remaining three cowl mounting bloc ks

and the fuselage the same way.

❏ 6. Slide the cowl over the engine onto the

fuselage. Use a Dremel tool with a cutting bit to trim

the cowl where necessary so you can get it to fit over

the engine. At this stage the cowl shouldn’t require

much trimming since the carburetor and muffler hav e

been removed.

❏ 7. If necessary, use a prop reamer or the

appropriate-size drill to enlarge the hole in the prop

for the crankshaft (or propeller bolt).

❏ 8. Temporarily mount the spinner backplate and

propeller to the engine. Mount the spinner cone to

the backplate with the 3mm screws.

❏ 9. Use tape or have an assistant hold the cowl in

position.Be certain to provide clearance between the

cowl and spinner—1/8" to 3/16" [3 to 5mm] should be

adequate. Also be certain the checkers on the top of

the cowl are centered on the checkers on the top of

the fuselage.

❏10. Mark the cowl 2-1/2" [65mm] from the mark on

the line indicating the center of one of the cowl

mounting blocks. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole through

the cowl into the mounting block inside.

❏ 12. Temporarily fasten the cowl to that mounting

block by partially installing a #4 x 5/8" [16mm] screw.

Drill the rest of the holes the same way.

❏ 13. After all four holes have been drilled, remove

the cowl and enlarge the holes in the cowl only with

a 1/8" [3.2mm] drill. Mount the cowl with the screws.

❏ 14. Remove the spinner, prop and cowl.Wipe the

alignment marks from the fuselage using one of the

small paper towel squares dampened with alcohol.

❏ 15. Drill a 1/8" [3.2mm] hole through four of the

supplied 1/16" x 7/8" [1 x 22mm] round, plywood cowl

reinforcements. Align the hole in one of the

reinforcements over the hole in one of the cowl

mounting blocks as shown in the photo. If necessary,

trim the aft edge of the cowl reinforcement so it will not

interfere with the fuselage when glued inside the cowl.

❏ 16. If necessary, trim the remaining three cowl

reinforcements the same way.

❏17. Roughen the inside of the cowl around the screw

holes. Add a dab of petroleum jelly or a drop of

household oil to the threads of four 4-40 x 3/8" [9.5mm]

screws and 4-40 nuts.Glue the cowl reinforcements to

the inside of the cowl using the screws and nuts to hold

them until the epoxy hardens.

❏ 18. After the epoxy has hardened, remove the

screws. Redrill the holes with a 1/8" [3.2mm] drill,

then mount the cowl with four #4 x 5/8" [16mm]

screws, #4 flat washers and #4 lock washers. Mount

the spinner and prop to see how it all looks.

- 29 -

Install the air tank

Refer to this photo while installing the air tank.

❏ R1. Glue together the two 1/8" x 3-3/8" [3 x 85mm]

O.D. plywood air tank mounting rings. Glue the rings

to the ring that’s part of the instrument panel former.

❏ R2. There should be two pieces of air line

remaining that are approximately 24" [610mm] long.

Connect one of the pieces to the air tank. Slip the

1/8" [3mm] plywood air tank former around the air

tank, then place the assembly in the fuselage. Use

medium CA to permanently glue the air tank former

to F-3 as shown, or if you prefer to make the air tank

removable, use #2 screws (not included) to hold the

air tank former to F-3.

❏ R3. Use a few dabs of RTV silicone or epoxy to

glue the air tank into position.

Install the fuel tank

Note: The included Great Planes 32 oz. [960cc] fuel

tank is suitable for both gasoline and glow fuel.

Refer to this photo while preparing the fuel tank.

❏ 1. Assemble the fuel tank using the hardware and

included fuel-pickup line that goes inside the tank.Be

certain the clunk cannot contact the back of the tank.

Otherwise, it may become stuck above the fuel level

and discontinue fuel flow causing the engine to quit.

Note: The fuel tank setup in the manual uses three

lines.The line connected to the fuel pickup in the tank

goes to the carburetor. The line connected to the fitting

on the top of the tank is for fueling and defueling.The

line connected to the middle fitting on the tank (which

must be drilled out with a 5/64" [2mm] drill) is the vent

line. A three-line setup eliminates the requirement for a

fuel filler valve.If you prefer to use a filler valve, a two-

line setup may be used.

❏ 2. Drill 3/32" [2.4mm] holes through the marks

near the aft edge of the plywood fuel tank floor.Use

two #64 rubber bands to hold the fuel tank to the fuel

tank floor with a sheet of 1/4" or 1/2" [6 or 13mm] R/C

foam in between.

❏3. Connect the external fuel lines to the tank—use

silicone fuel line for glow engines and use neoprene

fuel line for gasoline engines. Leave the lines extra

long so that they can be guided through the firewall.

The lines will be cut to the correct length later.

❏ 4. Drill holes through the firewall for the fuel lines.

The size of the holes will depend on the size of the

fuel line you are using.Be certain to drill the holes so

that the lines will not interfere with the engine or

engine mount and so they will not become kinked

behind the firewall.

❏ 5. Fit the fuel tank with the fuel tank floor in the

fuselage while guiding the fuel lines through the holes.

Note that the front of the fuel tank keys into the groo ve

between the balsa sticks on the back of the firewall.

❏ 6. While you still remember, write the name of

each fuel line (“carb,” “vent,” “fueling,”) on the firewall

near the hole where the line comes out. This way

you’ll know where the lines go when it’s time to

connect them.

❏7. Using the holes near the aft end of the fuel tank

floor as a guide, drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the

small hardwood blocks that support the rear of the

floor.Fasten the floor to the blocks with two #2 x 1/2"

[13mm] screws and #2 washers.

- 30 -

Hook up the throttle

Note: If using a spark ignition engine, be cer tain to

maintain a minimum distance of 12" [300mm]

between electronic parts of the radio system (servo,

receiver, battery, etc.) and the engine.Also, never use

a full-length, metallic pushrod to operate the throttle.

Refer to the following two photos while hooking

up the throttle.

❏ 1. If using a U.S. Engines 41cc, move the ball link

ball that was factory-mounted on the bellcrank to the

middle hole.Connect a 0-80 ball link ball to the outer

hole on the other end of the bellcrank with a drop of

threadlocker and a 0-80 nut.

❏2. Mark the engine mount where the throttle pushrod

should go through to connect to the bellcrank.

❏ 3.Remove the engine from the engine mount.Bolt

the mount to the firewall without the engine. Being

certain not to drill into the fuel tank, drill a 3/16"

[4.8mm] hole through the engine mount and the

firewall at the mark for the throttle pushrod. Enlarge

the hole in the engine mount only with a 1/4"

[6.4mm] drill.

❏ 4. Remount the engine to the engine mount.

❏ 5. Cut two 4-3/4" [120mm] forward servo tray

rails from the 1/4" x 1/4" x 12" [6 x 6 x 300mm]

hardwood stick. Securely glue the rails to the main

side stringer as shown.

Refer to this photo while installing the forward

servo tray.

❏ 6. Glue together both plywood forward servo

trays. Place the forward servo tray on the rails. Drill

four 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the servo tray and

the rails for the mounting screws. Take out the servo

tray and enlarge the holes in the servo tray only

with a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill. Mount the tray to the rails

with four #2 x 1/2" [13mm] screws.

❏ 7. Cut the 3/16" x 24" [4.8 x 610mm] gray pushrod

guide tube to the correct length for the throttle. Use

coarse sandpaper to roughen the tube so glue will

adhere where it goes through the firewall and

formers. Slide the guide tube into position.

❏ 8. Fit the throttle servo in the servo tray. Cut the

white, plastic pushrod to the correct length so it can

be connected to the throttle servo with a nylon clevis

and to the bellcrank with a nylon ball link.

❏ 9. Thread a 2-56 x 1" [25mm] threaded rod into

both ends of the throttle pushrod. Connect the nylon

ball link to one end of the rod, then slide the rod into

the guide tube from the front.

❏ 10. Connect the nylon clevis to the threaded rod

on other end of the pushrod. Connect the clevis to

the throttle servo arm with a silicone retainer. Use

medium CA to glue the guide tube to the firewall and

the formers.

❏ 11. Remove the forward servo tray. Add a few

drops of thin CA to the holes in the servo tray rails

and allow to harden. Mount the throttle servo to the

tray as well.Remount the servo tray.

- 31 -

Hook up the air lines

Refer to this photo while hooking up the air lines.

❏ R1. Use epoxy to glue the plywood air valve

mount to the forward servo tray. After the epoxy

hardens, mount the air valve to the air valve mount.

❏ R2. Use the remaining air line and two T-fittings

to connect the fill port, check valve and pressure

gauge (optional) to the air tank. Also connect the

quick disconnects to the air lines coming from the

tail gear air lines via two T-fittings. The remaining,

open end of these T-fittings will be connected to the

air valve. Connect another line to the T-fitting

between the fill port and the check valve.This line will

be connected to the air valve.Note: Use the plywood

air line guides to keep the air lines neat and tidy and

away from other working components (such as

servos, pushrods, etc.).

❏ R3. Mount the fill port and pressure gauge (if

used) to the fuselage side. The fill port can be

mounted flush to the outside of the fuselage via a

mount made from plywood (not supplied).

❏R4. Connect the air valve servo to the air v alv e using

a 2-56 x 4" [100mm] pushrod and a nylon clevis.

Connect the pushrod to the servo arm with a “Z” bend.

Connect the remaining air lines to the air valve.

Mount the kill switch

(for spark ignition engines only)

As stated in the IMAA Safety Code, all magneto spark

ignition engines must have a manually operated, coil-

grounding switch to stop the engine and prevent

accidental starting. A .3 Amp slide switch, 16 gauge

wire and two spade terminals were purchased at the

local Radio Shack

®

for this purpose. These common

components should also be available at any hardware

or home improvement store.

❏ 1. Mount the switch in a location where it will be

easily accessible from outside the model.

❏ 2. Determine the correct length of the wires

knowing that they must not contact the muffler or

engine. Cut the wires to the correct length, then

solder the wires to the switch and spade terminals.

❏ 3. Connect the terminals to the engine, making

certain the wires will not contact the engine or muffler.

- 32 -

WIRES WHERE

SOLDER THE

SHOWN

BOTTOM OF SWITCH

Finish the engine compartment

❏

1. Use a high-speed rotary tool with a carbide

cutting bit to cut the hole in the cowl for the

carburetor .For the U.S.Engines 41, this procedure is

made easier if the muffler and venturi are removed.

Slip the cowl into position, then, carefully viewing the

cowl and the carburetor inside and out, mark the

approximate location of the cutout.Remove the cowl.

Cut inside the lines starting with a small hole. Fit the

cowl, redraw the lines, then remove and cut the cowl

again. Continue to “zero-in” on the correct size and

shape of the cutout by fitting, marking and enlarging

the cutout in small increments. Mount the venturi

after the cowl has been fit over the carb. Note: The

venturi must be removed whenever the cowl requires

removal or installation. During initial engine tuning

and break-in it will be best to leave the cowl off the

model until all adjustments have been made. When

satisfied with the performance and reliability of the

engine, the cowl can be installed.

❏ 2. Cut the fuel line that goes to the carburetor to

the correct length, then hook up the fuel line.Drill two

holes through one of the remaining 1/2" x 13/16" x

13/16" [12 x 20 x 20mm] hardwood blocks to

accommodate the fuel lines. Trim the block to a

smaller, finished shape, then use epoxy to glue the

block to the bottom of the firewall. Guide the fueling

line and the vent through the holes in the block.

❏ 3. Cut any other necessary holes in the cowl for

the ignition switch, engine exhaust, fuel lines, etc.

❏ 4. If you haven’t already done so, remove the

engine and coat all bare wood parts (such as the

engine mount, engine mount spacers, cowl mount

blocks, etc.) with 30-minute epoxy or fuelproof paint.

Allow to dry, then remount the engine.

MOUNT THE SCALE DETAILS

Radiator air scoop

❏

1. Mount the wing to the fuselage with the wing

bolts. Place the fiberglass radiator air scoop on the

wing. Place a piece of thin cardstock between the

back of the air scoop and the fuselage. Use a fine-

point felt-tip pen to mark the outline of the air scoop

onto the bottom of the wing.

❏ 2. Carefully cut the covering 1/32" [1mm] inside

the line. Be careful not to cut into the balsa. Peel the

covering from the wing.

❏ 3. Glue the plywood wing bolt plates to the

bottom of the wing with 30-minute epoxy using the

wing bolts to hold them down.(Although the covering

is still on the wing in this photo, the covering should

be removed from your wing under the air scoop.)

- 33 -

❏ 4. Use a fine-point felt-tip pen to mark small lines

directly on the wing, noting the location of both wing bolt

plates.Reposition the air scoop on the wing, then mark

the same lines on both sides of the air scoop.

❏ 5. Cut the inside of the air scoop at the lines to

accommodate the wing bolt plates.

❏ 6. Use the same procedure to mark the location of

the wing bolts on the air scoop. Using the marks on

the scoop as a guide, cut 1/2" [13mm] holes through

the bottom of the scoop for wing bolts.

❏ 7. Roughen the lip around the base of the scoop

so glue will adhere. Place a sheet of wax paper

between the wing and the fuselage.

❏8.Glue the air scoop to the bottom of the wing with

30-minute epoxy mixed with microballoons. Hold the

air scoop down with weights and use paper towel

squares dampened with alcohol to clean up epoxy

that squeezes out.

❏ 9. Unbolt the wing after the epoxy hardens. Slip

pieces of fuel tubing over the wing bolts so they don’t

fall out.

Wing fairing

❏ 1. Bolt the wing to the fuselage. Test fit the

fiberglass wing fairing to the wing and fuselage.

Tr im the wing fairing as necessary to fit.

❏2.Trace the outline of the wing fairing onto the wing.

Cut away the covering 1/32" [1mm] inside the line.

❏ 3. Roughen the inside of the wing fairing around

the edges where it will contact the wing. Holding the

wing fairing in position, glue it to the wing with

medium CA.

- 34 -

Wing fillets

❏ 1. The same as the air scoop and wing fairing,

position the fiberglass wing fillets on the wing and

fuselage and trace their outline onto the fuselage.

Remove the wing. Cut the covering on the fuselage

1/16" [2mm] inside the lines and peel off the

covering. (Cutting 1/32" [1mm] inside the lines was

appropriate for the air scoop and wing fairing, but

1/16" [2mm] is better for the wing fillets.)

❏ 2. Lay a sheet of wax paper or a plastic film (cut

from a plastic bag) over the top of the wing to protect

it from glue. Mount the wing. Use coarse sandpaper

to thoroughlyroughen the inside surface of the wing

fillets where they contact the fuselage.

3.Without using any glue, test fit one of the fillets to the

fuselage and wing. Press the fillet to the fuselage

noting where pressure will be required to make it fit

best when actually gluing it on. Remove the fillet.

❏ 4. Apply a bead of medium CA all the way down

the wing fillet approximately 1/8" [3mm] from the top

edge. Apply another bead of medium CA down the

middle. Do not apply any CA near the bottom of the

fillet so glue does not drip out (although it wouldn’t be

a disaster as the wing is protected).

❏5.Rest the fillet on the wing about 1" [25mm] away

from the fuselage. Then, working quickly, slide the

fillet up to the fuselage tightly holding it down to the

wing and to the fuselage. Do not relieve pressure

until the CA hardens enough to securely hold the

fillet it in place.

❏ 6. Glue the other wing fillet to the fuselage the

same way.

❏ 7. Remove the wing and place the fuselage upside-

down in your building stand. Apply medium CA to any

gaps between the fillets and the fuselage sides.

Machine guns

❏ 1. Cut out the molded plastic machine guns first

by cutting 1/8" [3mm] outside the molded-in cutlines,

then by cutting on the lines.True the edges with a bar

sander and 180-grit sandpaper. Smooth the edges

with 400-grit sandpaper.

❏ 2. The same as was done with the other molded

parts, position the machine guns on the wing 4"

[100mm] from the “break” in the leading edge, trace

their outline, cut and remove the covering, then glue

the machine guns to the wing with medium CA.

- 35 -

4"

Engine Exhaust

❏ 1. Cut out the molded plastic engine exhaust

pipes leaving an approximately 3/32" [2mm] ridge all

the way around. True the edges with a bar sander

and 180-grit sandpaper.Smooth the edges with 400-

grit sandpaper.

❏ 2. Use medium CA to glue a 3/4" x 3/4" x 7" [20 x

20 x 180mm] balsa stick to the inside of each

exhaust pipe.

❏ 3.Trim the balsa sticks until they are even with the

gluing surface of the exhaust pipes.

Refer to this photo for the following three steps.

❏ 1. Test fit one of the exhaust pipes to the cowl

where shown in the photo.Use coarse sandpaper to

sand the cowl where the balsa inside the pipes will

be glued on.

❏ 2. Apply a coating of microballoons mixed with 30-

minute epoxy to the balsa stick inside one of the

pipes. Position the pipes on the cowl and hold them

down with rubber bands or masking tape.Wipe away

excess epoxy before it hardens.

❏ 3. After the epoxy from the previous step hardens,

glue the other set of exhaust pipes to the other side.

Canopy and pilot

❏

1. Deter mine how you will be mounting the pilot. In

the model depicted in the manual, a Williams Brother’s

#625 3" (1/4-scale) Standard pilot (WBRQ22625) was

used and mounted to a mounting plate made from 1/8"

[3mm] lite-ply (not included) that was painted black.Test

fit the pilot and place the canopy on the fuselage.Make

certain the pilot does not contact the canopy. Make

adjustments as necessary.

❏ 2. Paint the pilot and mounting plate if used.

Acrylic modeling paint (found at hobby shops and

craft stores) is suitable.

❏ 3. Securely mount the mounting plate and pilot in

the cockpit.

- 36 -

❏ 4. Wash the canopy in warm, soapy water, then

dry it off. Place the canopy on the fuselage. Be

certain it is centered from side-to-side. Temporarily

tape the canopy into position.Drill four ev enly spaced

1/16" [1.6mm] holes through both sides of the

canopy and the cockpit sides. Take the canopy off

and enlarge the holes in the canopy only with a

3/32" [2.4mm] drill. Mount the canopy with eight #2 x

3/16" [4.8mm] screws.

❏5. Remove the canopy and screws.Add a few drops

of thin CA to the holes to harden the threads.Allow the

CA to fully harden, then remount the canopy.

Apply the decals

1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the

decals from the decal sheets.Where possible, round

the corners so they won’t catch and lift while

cleaning and handling the model.

2. Be cer tain the model is clean. Prepare a dishpan or

small bucket with a mixture of liquid dish soap and w arm

water—about 1/2 teaspoon of soap per gallon of water.

Submerse one of the decals in the solution and peel off

the paper backing. Note: Even though the decals have

a “sticky-back” and are not the water transfer type,

submersing them in soap and water allows accurate

positioning and reduces air bubbles underneath.

3. Position the decal on the model where desired.

Holding the decal down, use a paper towel to wipe

most of the water away.

4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to

squeegee remaining water from under the decal.

Apply the rest of the decals the same way.

❏ Note: To apply the stars andbars on the bottom of

the right wing, remove the aileron servo hatch.Apply

the decal. Squeegee the water out, then cut along

the edges of the hatch. Position the hatch.Apply the

cut off portion of the decal to the hatch.

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY

Complete the radio installation

❏

1. Mount the receiver on/off switch in a strategic

location where it won’t interfere with anything inside

the fuselage and where it will not get coated with

engine exhaust outside the fuselage. Due to the

higher levels of vibration from some gas engines , two

switches may be used for redundancy. If using two

switches, solder the wires together as shown. A

Great Planes Switch & Charge Jack Mounting Set

(GPMM1000) was also used for charging and

voltage monitoring from outside the fuselage.

- 37 -

❏ 2. Securely mount the receiver and battery using

1/4" or 1/2" [6 or 13mm] R/C foam rubber to protect

them from vibration. The included Velcro str ips may

be used to secure them where preferred. On the

prototype test models the battery was mounted to

the top of the wing bolt plate in the fuselage and the

receiver was mounted to the forward servo tray. If

preferred, the battery location could be determined

while balancing the model, thus reducing or

eliminating any additional ballast required to get the

model to balance.

❏ 3. Connect the batter y, switch(es) and servos to

the receiver. Use ser vo extensions or Y-connectors

where necessary (on the model shown in the photo,

6" or 8" [150 or 200mm] servo extensions were

required for each elevator servo, and for the battery

and the aileron plug in the receiver.

❏ 4. Make a

strain relief

for the receiver antenna

from a leftover servo arm.Install the strain relief near

the end of the antenna where it enters the receiver.

Drill 3/32" holes through a few of the formers to guide

the receiver antenna away from the servos and

wires. Guide the antenna through a hole in the

fuselage insulated with a piece of leftover air line or

fuel tubing. Connect the end of the antenna to a pin

stuck into the fin via a rubber band and a

hook

made

from another leftover servo arm.

Balance the Model (C.G.)

The model should be in ready-to-fly condition with

all of the systems in place including the landing

gear, engine, propeller, spinner, etc.It is advisable to

have two people to balance the model—one to hold

the model (or place it on the balance stand) and one

to view it from the side to see if the stabilizer is level.

❏1.If using a Great Planes C.G.Machine to balance

the model, set the rulers to 4-9/16" [116mm] and

adjust the bases so the upright rods are spaced

approximately 22-1/2" [570mm] apart (to support the

wing at the “break” in the leading edge as shown in

the sketch). If not using a C.G. machine, accurately

mark the C.G. on the top of both sides of the wing

4-9/16" [116mm] from the “break” in the leading

edge with a fine-point felt-tip pen.Connect the marks

with a strip of 1/8" [3mm] (or narrower) tape.(You will

be able to feel the tape line when lifting the model

upside-down with your fingers.)

More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance

point) can have the greatest effect on how a

model flies and may determine whether or not

your first flight will be successful.If you value this

model and wish to enjoy it for many flights, DO

NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT

PROCEDURE. A model that is not properly

balanced will be unstable and possibly unflyable.

- 38 -

❏ 2.With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts

of the model installed (ready to fly) and an empty fuel

tank, place the model upside-down on the CG

Machine, or lift the model upside-down with your

finger tips on the tape line.

❏ 3. When viewing the model from the side, the

horizontal stabilizer should be level. If the tail is low,

the model is “tail heavy” and the batter y pack and/or

receiver must be shifted forward or weight must be

added to the nose to balance. If the tail is high, the

model is “nose heavy” and the battery pack and/or

receiver must be shifted aft or weight must be added

to the tail to balance. If additional weight is required,

Great Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead may be

added where necessary. If nose-weight is required

attach it to the firewall (don’t attach weight to the

cowl—it is not intended to support weight). If tail-

weight is required it could be attached to the inside

of the fuselage through the tail gear door opening. In

either case, do not rely upon the adhesive on the

back of the lead weight to permanently hold it in

place. Over time, fuel and exhaust residue may

soften the adhesive and cause the weight to fall off.

Instead, use #2 sheet-metal screws, RTV silicone or

epoxy to permanently hold the weight in place.

❏ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add

any weight, recheck the C.G. after the weight has

been installed.

Balance the Model Laterally

❏ 1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you

lift the model by the engine propeller shaft and the

bottom of the fuse under the TE of the fin. Do this

several times.

❏ 2. If one wing always drops when you lift the

model, it means that side is heavy. Balance the

airplane by adding weight to the other wing tip.

Weight may be temporarily adhered to the bottom of

the wing tip with the adhesive foam tape that comes

with it, then permanently glued inside after doing the

necessary in-flight checks to determine the exact

amount of weight necessary. An airplane that has

been laterally balanced will track better in loops

and other maneuvers.

Check the Control Directions

❏ 1. Tur n on the transmitter and receiver and center

the trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from

the servos and reposition them so they are centered.

Reinstall the screws that hold on the servo arms.

❏ 2. Adjust the length of any pushrods necessary

and the pull/pull cables on the tail wheel by screwing

the clevises in or out. Securely tighten all the 4-40

jam nuts on the 4-40 pushrods to lock the clevises

down. This would also be a good time to study the

installation of all the systems to make sure

everything is secure and connected properly (air

lines, servo wires, receiver antenna, etc.).

❏ 3. Make certain all the controls respond in the

correct direction. If any of the controls respond in the

wrong direction, use the servo reversing in the

transmitter to reverse the servos connected to those

controls. Be certain the control surfaces have

remained centered. Adjust if necessary.

Set the Control Throws

Use a Great Planes AccuThrow (or a ruler) to

accurately measure and set the control throw of each

control surface as indicated in the chart that follows.

NOTE:The throws are measured at the widest part

of the elevators, rudder ailerons and flaps.

This is where your model should balance for the

first flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by

shifting the C.G. up to 5/16" [8mm] forward or

5/16" [8mm] back to change the flying

characteristics. Moving the C.G. forward may

improve the smoothness and stability, but the

model may then require more speed for takeoff

and make it more difficult to slow for landing.

Moving the C.G. aft makes the model more

maneuverable , but could also cause it to become

too difficult to control. In any case, start at the

recommended balance point and do not at any

time balance the model outside the specified

range. Note: If flying the model at the forward

C.G. location, you should land with the elevator

throws (provided on page 40) set to the high

rate. If the model is nose-heavy the low-rate

throws may not provide enough control to flair

upon landing.

- 39 -

Balance Propellers

Carefully balance your propeller and spare

propellers before you fly.An unbalanced prop can be

the single most significant cause of vibration that

can damage your model. Not only will engine

mounting screws and bolts loosen, possibly with

disastrous effect, but vibration may also damage

your radio receiver and battery. Vibration can also

cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause

your engine to run hot or quit.

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop

Balancer

™

(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a

Great Planes Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000)

in our flight box.

CHECK LIST

❏

1. Fuelproof all areas exposed to fuel or exhaust

residue such as the cowl mounting blocks,

wing saddle area, etc.

❏ 2. Check the C.G. according to the measurements

provided in the manual.

❏ 3. Be cer tain the battery and receiver are securely

mounted in the fuselage.Simply stuffing them into

place with foam rubber is not sufficient.

❏ 4. Extend the receiver antenna and make sure it

has a strain relief inside the fuselage to keep

tension off the solder joint inside the receiver.

❏ 5. Balance the model

laterally

as explained in

the instructions.

❏ 6. Use threadlocking compound to secure critical

fasteners such as the nuts that hold the wheel

axles to the struts, screws that hold the

carburetor arm (if applicable), set screws that

hold the tail gear components, etc.

❏ 7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will

turn freely.

❏ 8. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.

❏ 9. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA

where appropriate (servo mounting screws,

cowl mounting screws, etc.).

❏ 10. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct

direction and that the throws are set up

according to the manual.

❏ 11. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all

the clevises and that all servo arms are

secured to the servos with the screws included

with your radio.

❏ 12. Secure connections between ser vo wires and

Y-connectors or servo extensions, and the

connection between your battery pack and the

on/off switch with vinyl tape, heat shrink tubing

or special clips suitable for that purpose.

❏ 13. Make sure none of the servo wires or air lines

interfere with any moving parts (servo arms,

pushrods, retracts, etc.).

❏ 14. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and

are not kinked.

❏15. Securely tighten the propeller nut. Remove the

3mm screws that hold the spinner cone to the

backplate. Add a small drop of thread locking

compound to the screws, then reinstall the screws .

During the last few moments of preparation your

mind may be elsewhere anticipating the

excitement of the first flight. Because of this, you

may be more likely to overlook certain checks

and procedures that should be performed before

the model is flown.To help avoid this, a checklist

is provided to make sure these important areas

are not overlooked. Many are covered in the

instruction manual, so where appropriate, refer to

the manual for complete instructions. Be sure to

check the items off as they are completed (that’s

why it’s called a

check list!

).

IMPORTANT: The Top Flite Giant P-51D

Mustang ARF has been extensively flown and

tested to arrive at the throws at which it flies best.

Flying your model at these throws will provide

you with the greatest chance for successful first

flights. If, after you have become accustomed to

the way the Mustang flies, you would like to

change the throws to suit your taste, that is fine.

However, too much control throw could make the

model difficult to control, so remember, “more is

not always better.”

These are the recommended control surface throws:

High Rate Low Rate

ELEVATOR 9/16" up 3/8" up

[14mm] [10mm]

9/16" down 3/8" down

[14mm] [10mm]

RUDDER 1-1/2" right 1" right

1-1/2" left 1" left

[38mm] [25mm]

AILERONS: 3/4" up 1/2" up

[19mm] [13mm]

5/8" down 3/8" down

[16mm] [10mm]

Half Rate Full Rate

FLAPS: 1-3/16" [30mm] 2-1/8" [55mm]

Note: If flying the model at the forward C.G.

location, you should land with the elevator throws

set to the high rate.If the model is nose-heavy the

low-rate throws ma y not provide enough control to

flair upon landing.

- 40 -

❏ 16. Balance the propeller and spare propellers.

❏ 17. Place your name, address, AMA number and

telephone number on or inside the model.

❏ 18. Cycle the receiver battery pack (if necessary)

and make sure it is fully charged.

❏ 19. If you wish to photograph your model, do so

before your first flight.

❏ 20. Perform a range check when you get to the

flying field.

PREFLIGHT

Identify Y our Model

No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club

site or if you fly somewhere on your o wn, y ou should

always hav e y our name , address, telephone n umber

and AMA number on or inside your model. It is

required at all AMA R/C club flying sites and AMA

sanctioned flying events .Fill out the identification tag

on page 47 and place it on or inside your model.

Charge the Batteries

Follow the battery charging instructions that came

with your radio control system to charge the

batteries.You should always charge your transmitter

and receiver batteries the night before you go flying,

and at other times as recommended by the radio

manufacturer.

NOTE: Checking the condition of your receiver

battery pack is highly recommended. All battery

packs, whether it’s a trusty pack you’ve just taken

out of another model, or a new battery pack you just

purchased, should be cycled, noting the discharge

capacity. Oftentimes, a weak battery pack can be

identified (and a valuable model saved!) by

comparing its actual capacity to its rated capacity.

Refer to the instructions and recommendations that

come with your cycler. If you don’t own a battery

cycler, perhaps you can have a friend cycle your

pack and note the capacity for you.

Ground Check

If the engine is new, follow the engine

manufacturer’s instructions to break-in the

engine. After break-in, confirm that the engine idles

reliably, transitions smoothly and rapidly to full

power and maintains full power—indefinitely. After

you run the engine on the model, inspect the model

closely to make sure all screws remained tight, the

hinges are secure, the prop is secure and all

pushrods and connectors are secure.

Range Check

Ground check the operational range of your radio

before the first flight of the day. With the transmitter

antenna collapsed and the receiver and transmitter

on, you should be able to walk at least 100 f eet a wa y

from the model and still have control. Have an

assistant stand by your model and, while you work

the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are

doing. Repeat this test with the engine running at

various speeds with an assistant holding the model,

using hand signals to show you what is happening.

If the control surfaces do not respond correctly, do

not fly! Find and correct the problem first. Look for

loose servo connections or broken wires, corroded

wires on old servo connectors, poor solder joints in

your battery pack or a defective cell, or a damaged

receiver crystal from a previous crash.

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high

heat, sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable.Do

not smoke near the engine or fuel; and remember

that engine exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly

carbon monoxide.Therefore do not run the engine

in a closed room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to

operate engines.

Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.

Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or

sand; the propeller may throw such material in your

face or eyes.

Keep your face and body as well as all spectators

away from the plane of rotation of the propeller as

you start and run the engine.

Keep these items away from the prop: loose

clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose

objects such as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall

out of shirt or jacket pockets into the prop.

Use a “chicken stick” or electric star ter to start the

engine. Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller.

Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is

secure so that it will not pop off or otherwise get into

the running propeller.

Make all engine adjustments from behind the

rotating propeller.

The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right

after operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good

condition so fuel will not leak onto a hot engine,

causing a fire.

To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing

off the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s

recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any

other body part to try to stop the engine. To stop a

gasoline powered engine an on/off switch should be

connected to the engine coil.Do not throw anything into

the propeller of a running engine.

Failure to follow these safety precautions may

result in severe injury to yourself and others.

- 41 -

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)

Read and abide by the following Academy of Model

Aeronautics Official Safety Code:

GENERAL

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned

events, air shows, or model flying demonstrations

until it has been proven to be airworthy by having

been previously successfully flight tested.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than

approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport

without notifying the airpor t operator. I will give right

of way to, and avoid flying in the proximity of full

scale aircraft.Where necessary an observer shall be

used to supervise flying to avoid having models fly in

the proximity of full scale aircraft.

3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules

for the flying site I use, and I will not willfully and

deliberately fly my models in a careless, reckless

and/or dangerous manner.

7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my

name and address or AMA number, on or in the model.

9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any

device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile

of any kind).

RADIO CONTROL

1. I will have completed a successful radio

equipment ground check before the first flight of a

new or repaired model.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of

spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless

assisted by an experienced helper.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away

from the pit or spectator areas, and I will not

thereafter fly over pit or spectator areas, unless

beyond my control.

4. I will operate my model using only radio control

frequencies currently allowed by the Federal

Communications Commission...

Since the Giant P-51D Mustang ARF qualifies as

a “giant scale” model and is therefore eligible to

fly in IMAA events, we’ve printed excerpts from

the IMAA Safety Code which follows.

IMAA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)

Definition:

For the purpose of the following IMAA Safety Code,

the term Giant Scale shall refer to radio controlled

model aircraft, either scale or non-scale, which hav e

a wingspan of 80 inches or more for monoplanes

and 60 inches or more for multi-winged model

aircraft and have a ramp w eight (fueled and ready to

fly) of 55 lbs. or less.

Section 1.0: SAFETY STANDARD

1.1 Adherence to Code: This safety code is to be

strictly followed

1.2 The most current AMA Saf ety Code in eff ect is to

be observed. However, the competition sections of

the code may be disregarded.

Section 3.0: Safety Check

3.4 Flight Testing: All Giant Scale R/C aircraft are to

have been flight tested and flight trimmed with a

minimum of six flights before the model is allowed to

fly at an IMAA Sanctioned event.

3.5 Proof of Flight: The completing and signing of

the Declaration section of the Safety Inspection f orm

by the pilot (or owner) shall document as fact that

each aircraft has been successfully flight-tested and

proven airworthy prior to an IMAA event.

Section 5.0: EMERGENCY ENGINE SHUT OFF

(kill switch)

5.1 All magneto spark ignition engines must have a

coil grounding switch on the aircraft to stop the

engine. This will also prevent accidental starting of

the engine. This switch shall be readily available to

both pilot and helper.This switch is to be operated

manually and without the use of the radio system.

5.2 Engines with battery power ignition systems

must have a switch to turn off the power from the

battery pack to disable the engine from firing. This

will also prevent accidental starting of the engine.

This switch shall be readily available to both pilot

and helper. This switch shall be operated manually

and without the use of the Radio System.

5.3 There must also be a means to stop the engine

from the transmitter.The most common method is to

close the carburetor throat completely using throttle

trim. However, other methods are acceptable. This

requirement applies to all glow/gas ignition engines

regardless of size.

Section 6.0: RADIO REQUIREMENTS

6.1 All transmitters must be FCC type certified.

6.2 FCC Technician or higher-class license required

for 6 meter band operation only.

Additional IMAA General Recommendations

The following recommendations are included in the

Safety Code not to police such items, but rather to

offer basic suggestions for enhanced safety.

Servos need to be of a rating capable to handle the

loads that the control surfaces impose upon the

servos. Standard servos are not recommended for

control surfaces.Servos should be rated heavy-duty.

For flight-critical control functions a minimum of 45

inch/ounces of torque should be considered. This

should be considered a minimum for smaller aircraft

- 42 -

and higher torque servos are strongly encouraged

for larger aircraft. The use of one servo for each

aileron and one for each elevator half is strongly

recommended. Use of dual servos is also

recommended for larger aircraft.

On-board batteries shall be 1000 mAh up to 20 lbs.,

1200 mAh to 30 lbs., 1800 mAh to 40 lbs. and 2000

mAh over 40 lbs.flying weight.The number and size of

servos, size and loads on control surfaces, and added

features should be considered as an increase to these

minimums.Batteries should be able to sustain power to

the onboard radio components for a minimum of one

hour total flying time before recharging.

Both redundant and fail-safe battery systems

are recommended.

The use of anti-glitch devices for long leads

are recommended.

There is no maximum engine displacement limit, as

it is the position of this body that an underpowered

aircraft presents a greater danger than an

overpowered aircraft. However, the selection of

engine size relative to airframe strength and power

loading mandates good discretionary judgment by

the designer and builder. Current AMA maximums

for engine displacement are 6.0 cu.in.for two-stroke

and 9.6 cu. in. for four-stroke engines. These

maximums apply only to AMA Sanctions concerning

competition events (such as 511, 512, 515 and 520)

and, as such, the maximums apply. All IMAA (non

competition) events should be sanctioned as Class

“C”events, in which these engine size maximums do

not apply.

Generally, it is recommended that no attempt should

be made to fly a radio controlled model aircraft with

a gasoline engine in which the model aircraft weight

would exceed twelve (12) pounds (underpowered)

per cubic inch of engine displacement, or be less

than five (5) pounds (overpowered) per cubic inch of

engine displacement. Example: Using a 3 cu. in.

engine, a model would likely be underpowered at an

aircraft weight greater than 36 pounds. With the

same engine, an aircraft weighing less than 15

pounds would likely be over powered.

Servo arms and wheels should be rated heavy duty.

Glass-filled servo arms and control horns are

highly recommended.

Control surfaces linkages are listed in order

of preference:

1. Cable system (pull-pull). A tiller bar is highly

recommended along with necessary bracing.

2. Arrow Shaft, fiberglass or aluminum, 1/4" or 5/16"

[6 or 8mm] O.D. bracing every six (6) to ten (10)

inches is highly recommended.

3. Tube-in-tube (nyrod). Bracing every few inches is

highly recommended. Inner tube should be totally

enclosed in outer tube.

4. Hardwood dowel, 3/8" O.D. bracing every six (6)

to ten (10) inches is highly recommended.

Hinges should be rated heavy duty and

manufactured for Giant Scale use primarily.

Homemade and original design hinges are

acceptable if determined to be adequate for the

intended use.

Clevis (steel, excluding heavy-duty ball links) and

attachment hardware should be heavy duty 4-40

threaded rod type.2-56 threaded size rod is acceptable

for some applications (e.g. throttle). Clevis is to have

lock nuts and sleeve or spring keepers.

Propeller tips should be painted or colored in a

visible and contrasting manner so as to increase the

visibility of the propeller tip arc.

FLYING

The Top Flite Giant P-51D Mustang ARF is a great-

flying model that flies smoothly and predictably. The

Mustang does not, however, possess the self-

recovery characteristics of a primary R/C trainer and

should be flown only by experienced R/C pilots.

Fuel Mixture Adjustments

A fully cowled engine may run at a higher

temperature than an un-cowled engine. For this

reason, the fuel mixture should be richened so the

engine runs at about 200 rpm below peak speed. By

running the engine slightly rich, you will help prevent

dead-stick landings caused by overheating.

CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C

AIRPLANES):If, while flying, you notice an alarming

or unusual sound such as a low-pitched “buzz,”this

may indicate control surface

flutter.

Flutter occurs

when a control surface (such as an aileron or

elevator) or a flying surface (such as a wing or stab)

rapidly vibrates up and down (thus causing the

noise). In extreme cases, if not detected

immediately, flutter can actually cause the control

surface to detach or the flying surface to fail, thus

causing loss of control followed by an impending

crash.The best thing to do when flutter is detected is

to slow the model immediately by reducing power,

then land as soon as safely possible.Identify which

surface fluttered (so the problem may be resolved)

by checking all the servo grommets for deterioration

or signs of vibration. Make certain all pushrod

linkages are secure and free of play. If it fluttered

once, under similar circumstances it will probably

flutter again unless the problem is fixed.Some things

which can cause flutter are; Excessive hinge gap;

Not mounting control horns solidly; Poor fit of clevis

pin in horn; Side-play of wire pushrods caused by

large bends; Excessive free play in servo gears;

Insecure servo mounting; and one of the most

prevalent causes of flutter; Flying an over-powered

model at excessive speeds.

- 43 -

Takeoff

Before you get ready to takeoff, see how the model

handles on the ground by doing a few practice runs

at low speeds on the r unway. Hold “up” elevator to

keep the tail wheel on the ground. If necessary,

adjust the tail wheel so the model will roll straight

down the runway. If you need to calm your nerves

before the maiden flight, shut the engine down and

bring the model back into the pits. Top off the fuel,

then check all fasteners and control linkages for

peace of mind.

If possible, takeoff directly into the wind.The Giant

P-51 handles crosswind takeoffs well, but taking off

directly into the wind is usually desired—use the

rudder as necessary to maintain heading. When

ready, advance the throttle and hold a bit of up

elevator to keep the tail on the ground to maintain

tail wheel steering. As the model gains speed

decrease up elevator allo wing the tail to come off the

ground. One of the most important things to

remember with a tail dragger that has a large engine

is to always be ready to apply right rudder to

counteract engine torque. Gain as much speed as

your runway and flying site will practically allow

before gently applying up elevator lifting the model

into the air. At this moment it is likely that you will

need to apply more right rudder to counteract

engine torque. Be smooth on the elevator stick and

retract the gear when comfortable. Allow the model

to establish a gentle climb to a safe altitude before

turning into the traffic pattern.

Flight

For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffic,

it is a good idea to have an assistant on the flight line

with you.T ell him to remind y ou to throttle back once

the plane gets to a comfortable altitude. While full

throttle is usually desirable for takeoff, most models

fly more smoothly at reduced speeds.

Take it easy with the Mustang for the first few flights,

gradually getting acquainted with it as you gain

confidence.Adjust the trims to maintain straight and

level flight.After flying around for a while, and while

still at a safe altitude with plenty of fuel, practice slow

flight and execute practice landing approaches by

reducing the throttle to see how the model handles

at slower speeds.Add power to see how she climbs

as well. Continue to fly around, executing various

maneuvers and making mental notes (or having

your assistant write them down) of what trim or C.G.

changes may be required to fine tune the model so

it flies the way you like. Mind your fuel level, but use

this first flight to become familiar with your model

before landing.

Landing

One of the keys to landing a giant-scale model is to

maintain sufficient airspeed throughout the landing

approach. An unusually high airspeed is not

necessary, but those unfamiliar with landing giant-

scale models are sometimes deceived by the

model’s larger size. Larger models often appear to

be closer than they actually are. Additionally, most

giant-scale models slow down rapidly, thus causing

the uninitiated to land short. To avoid this initial

illusion, make your landing pattern closer than you

normally might for a .40-size sport model.Also, don’t

pull the throttle all the way back and leave it there

the way you normally would. Instead, momentarily

pull the throttle all the way back, but then advance it

a “click” or two to keep the engine RPM up and

maintain airspeed. Once over the runway you can

cut the throttle the rest of the way and the model will

slow for the landing flare.

The P-51 may be landed with or without flaps.Flaps

increase lift and drag, so the plane may be landed

slower , thus reducing rollout after touchdo wn (not as

much of a factor on grass runways). To initiate a

landing approach, lower the throttle while on the

downwind leg.If using flaps, allow the model to slow

before extending them.Continue to lose altitude, but

maintain airspeed by keeping the nose down as you

turn onto the crosswind leg. Make the final turn

toward the runway (into the wind) keeping the nose

down to maintain airspeed and control.If using flaps

keep a few additional “clicks” of power so the model

doesn’t slow

too

much. Level the attitude when the

model reaches the runway threshold, modulating

the throttle as necessary to maintain the glide path

and airspeed.If overshooting, smoothly advance the

throttle (always ready on the right rudder to

counteract torque) and retract the flaps when

enough airspeed is gained. Climb out to make

another attempt. When the model is a foot or so off

the deck and you are ready to make the landing

flare, smoothly increase up elevator until it gently

touches down.Once the model is on the runway and

has lost flying speed, hold up elevator to hold the tail

on the ground, thus maintaining tail wheel steering.

Note: If ever the occasion arises when a dead-stick

landing must be performed, do not extend the flaps

until certain the model will be able to reach the

landing zone (on dead-stick landings it is common to

land with no flaps at all).Without engine power , flaps

can unexpectedly reduce the model’s range, thus

causing you to come up short of the field.

One final note about flying your Giant P-51.Have a goal

or flight plan in mind for every flight.The goal could be

learning a new maneuver, perfecting known

maneuvers, or learning how the model behaves in

certain conditions (such as on high or low rates).This is

not necessarily to improve your skills (

though it is never

a bad idea!)

, but more importantly so you do not

surprise yourself by impulsively attempting a

maneuver without any planning. Every maneuver

should be deliberate.For example, if you’re going to do

a loop, plan it out—check your altitude, mind the wind

direction (anticipating rudder corrections that will be

required to maintain heading), remember to throttle

back on the down side, and mak e certain you are on the

desired rates (high/low rates). A flight plan greatly

reduces the chances of crashing just because of poor

planning and impulsive moves. Remember to think!

Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly in

a safe manner.

GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!

- 44 -

- 45 -

Economical gasoline power for quarter- and giant-scale.

Boost realism and cut fuel costs! The 41cc burns an inexpensive

blend of unleaded gasoline and 2-cycle oil for fuel; plus, the

included spring-starter makes an electric starter, starter battery

and glow starter unnecessary. Other features: Internal, solid

state electronic ignition; smooth, dynamically balanced flywheel;

chrome-plated cylinder bore; full roller bearings; engine mount;

and a 2-year warranty.

U.S. Engines

™

41cc 2.5 R/C Engine (USEG0041)

Great for almost any rechargeable R/C battery!

It weighs barely a pound and measures only about the size of a

thick paperback book - but the Triton is so versatile, you can use

it with lithium-ion, lithium polymer and lead-acid batteries as

effectively as NiCd and NiMH cells. It will peak tiny park flyer

packs and 24V car batteries alike - and can discharge as well as

charge, cycle packs from 1 to 10 times automatically, memorize

peak and average battery voltages for each cycle, and

constantly display battery capacity, voltage, current and time as

each cycle progresses. 1-year warranty.

Great Planes

®

ElectriFly

™

Triton

™

(GPMM3150)

Computerized DC Peak Charger/Discharger/Cycler

- 46 -

More value for the dollar - more possibilities for the pilot!

With a 9C, the sky's the limit - and Dial N' Key programming puts

it within easy reach. There's a rotary dial for finding functions,

push-buttons to do everything else, and more possibilities than

you'd ever imagine. Experiment with triple rates. See the travel

of each servo on a bar graph and reset the limits of any you wish.

Delete an auxiliary function and substitute a custom mix, or

assign it to a different knob or switch - even to one of the two

proportional slider switches. Factory programming enables the

transmitter to be used for airplanes, helis or sailplanes.

Receiver: R149DP Servos: (4) S9001

Tx NiCd: 700mAh Rx NiCd: 1000mAh

Band: 50, 72MHz Modulation: PCM

Futaba

®

9C 9-Channel Radio System (FUTJ88**)

For precise dual servo control without mixing!

With the SR10, you can control two servos on a single channel

without special motors or mixing. Easy to install, simple to trim -

and equipped with an RF noise filter for signal clarity. Ideal for

cars, boats or two-servo control surfaces on large-scale craft.

1-year warranty.

Futaba

®

SR10 Dual Servo Reverser (FUTM4150)

- 47 -

U.S. 41cc ENGINE MOUNT TEMPLATE

Cut out or make a copy of this identification

tag. Fill in the appropriate information and

place it on or inside the model.

AMA number

Phone number

City, State Zip

Address

This model belongs to:

Name

AMA number

Phone number

City, State Zip

Address

This model belongs to:

Name

- 48 -