Top Flite A0500 INSTRUCTION BOOK

WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does

not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite‘s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves
the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user
accepts all resulting liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in

new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

Top Flite Models P.O. Box 788 Urbana, Il 61803

Technical Assistance Call [phone] [e-mail]

DC3TP03 V1.1

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

Entire Contents © Copyright 1999

MADE IN

™

Wingspan: 82-1/2" [2095 mm]
Wing Area: 750 sq. in. [48.4 sq. dm]
Weight: 8 - 10 Lbs. [3629 - 4536g]
Wing Loading: 24.6 - 30.7 oz./sq. ft. [75 - 94 g/sq. dm]
Fuselage Length: 55.5 in. [1410 mm]

USA

TABLE OF CONTENTS

AND BUILDING SEQUENCE

INTRODUCTION...........................................................2

PRECAUTIONS............................................................3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE...................................3

Engine selection.........................................................3

Retractable landing gear............................................3

Flaps ..........................................................................3

Scale rudder...............................................................4

Propellers...................................................................4

COMPETITION-MINDED MODELERS ........................4

DOCUMENTATION ......................................................4

DESIGNER NOTES......................................................4

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED..........................................5

DIE-CUT PATTERNS.............................................6 & 7

BUILDING SUPPLIES..................................................8

Glue & Fillers..............................................................8

Tools ..........................................................................8

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES.................................8

GET READY TO BUILD ...............................................9

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES .....................................9

Make the stab & fin skins...........................................9

Build the stabilizer....................................................11

Build the elevators....................................................12

Build the fin and rudder............................................14

BUILD THE FUSELAGE ............................................20

Frame the fuselage top............................................20

Mount the stab and fin..............................................22

Sheet the top of the fuselage...................................24

Build the bottom of the fuselage...............................26

Install the pushrods..................................................26

Finish the bottom of the fuselage.............................28

Mount the aft hatch ..................................................30

Fit the cabin top........................................................31

Build the dorsal fin and fit the tail cone ....................32

BUILD THE WING ......................................................33

Build the center section............................................33

Build the outer panels ..............................................36

Join the outer panels to the center section ..............37

Mount the engine nacelles.......................................37

Mount the retracts....................................................38

Build the fixed landing gear......................................40

Prepare the bottom of the wing for sheeting............42

Make the wing skins.................................................43

Sheet the bottom of the wing ...................................43

Build the flaps...........................................................44

Mount the servos in the wing ...................................45

Prepare the wing for the top sheeting......................47

Sheet the top of the wing .........................................48

Build the ailerons......................................................48

Hookup the flaps and ailerons..................................50

Sheet the nacelles....................................................51

Mount the cowls.......................................................53

FINAL CONSTRUCTION............................................55

Mount the wing to the fuselage................................55

Build the wing fillet ...................................................55

Mount the fuel tanks and receiver............................56

Prepare the model for covering................................57

Balance the airplane laterally...................................58

FINISHING..................................................................58

Cover your model with MonoKote

®

...........................58

Covering sequence..................................................59

Painting....................................................................59

Join the control surfaces..........................................59

FINISHING TOUCHES ...............................................60

Decals......................................................................60

Panel lines................................................................61

GET YOUR MODEL READY TO FLY........................61

Check engine thrust angles......................................61

Balance your model .................................................61

Final hookups and checks........................................62

Control surface throws.............................................62

Setup your throttles..................................................62

PREFLIGHT................................................................63

Identify your model...................................................63

Charge your batteries...............................................63

Balance your propellers ...........................................63

Synchronize your engines........................................63

Find a safe place to fly.............................................64

Ground check your model........................................64

Range check your radio...........................................64

Checklist...................................................................64

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS............................64

AMA SAFETY CODE .................................................65

FLYING.......................................................................65

Engine out................................................................65

Pitch Trim Changes..................................................65

Takeoff.....................................................................65

Flight ........................................................................65

Landing ....................................................................66

TWO-VIEW DRAWING ................................Back Cover

Your DC-3 is not a toy, but a sophisticated working
model that functions very much like an actual airplane.
Because of its realistic performance, if you do not
assemble and operate your DC-3 correctly, you could
possibly injure yourself or spectators and damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience totally
enjoyable, get assistance with assembly and your
first flights from an experienced, knowledgeable
modeler. You'll learn faster and avoid risking your model

before you're truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop
has information about flying clubs in your area whose
membership includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the Academy of Model Aeronautics
(AMA), which has more than 2,500 chartered clubs
across the country. We recommend you join the AMA
which will insure you at AMA club sites and events. AMA
Membership is required at chartered club fields where
qualified flight instructors are available.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

[phone]

Fax [phone]

or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Top
Flite

Gold Edition

DC-3. We are sure you are eager to

build and fly your DC-3 just as we were eager to build
and fly our prototypes. Although this is a model of a
famous civilian transport, the Douglas DC-3, you can
easily build your model as the C-47 military version. If
this is your choice, all you really need to do is cover your

Your Top Flite Gold Edition DC-3 is intended for
scale and general sport flying including mild
aerobatics such as loops, stall turns, rolls, etc. Its
structure is designed to withstand such stresses. If
you intend to use your DC-3 for more rigorous types
of flying such as aggressive aerobatics or flying from
rough fields, it is your responsibility to reinforce
areas of the model that will be subjected to the
resulting unusually high stresses.

PROTECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF & OTHERS

FOLLOW THIS IMPORTANT

SAFETY PRECAUTION

- 2 -

model in a military trim scheme, add cargo door outlines
and a few more antennas here and there! Study your
own documentation for more details.

The nice thing about the

Gold Edition

DC-3 is that
although it is a highly detailed scale model with all the
goodies such as a realistic looking scale outline, built up
tail surfaces, retracts and flaps, it isa model of a transport
plane so you’ll have a stable model that you’ll look forward
to flying often! And with twin engines you’re sure to get all
the attention when you show up at your flying field!

One last note before you continue, we highly recommend
you get some pictures or a book about DC-3's (or C-47's)
or send for your documentation package as soon as
possible. This way, you can study the drawings and
photos to get a feel for how your DC-3 should look when
you’re done. This will also help you figure out what scale
details to add and decide on a trim scheme (you can also
dream about how cool your DC-3 is going to look when it’s
done!). One of the books we recommend is the Squadron
Signal Publications

DC-3 in Action

book No. 39
(SSPZ1149). It features lots of historical and technical
information as well as detailed drawings, photos, and
trim schemes.

Well, this should be enough to get your juices flowing, so
get your other projects off your workbench, say goodbye
to your significant other for a while and...keep reading!

Please inspect all parts carefully before you start to
build! If any parts are missing, broken or defective,
or if you have any questions about building or flying
this model, please call us at [phone] or e-mail
us at [e-mail] and we’ll be
glad to help. If you are calling for replacement parts,
please look up the part numbers and the kit
identification number (stamped on the end of the
carton) and have them ready when you call.

PRECAUTIONS

1. You must build the plane according to the plan and
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing
so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few
cases the plan and instructions may differ slightly
from the photos. In those instances you should
assume the plan and written instructions are correct.

2. You must take time to build straight, true
and strong.

3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first class
condition, the correct sized engines and correct
components (fuel tanks, wheels, etc.) throughout your
building process.

4. You must properly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates properly on the
ground and in the air.

5. You must test the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and you
must make certain that the model has remained
structurally sound.

6. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, you
must fly the model only with the help of a competent,
experienced R/C pilot.

Remember: Take your time and follow instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.

ENGINE SELECTION

Recommended engine size:

Two .25 to .40 cu. in. [4.0 to 6.5cc] 2-stroke
Two .40 to .52 cu. in. [6.5 to 6.5cc] 4-stroke
Two O.S. .30 cu. in [5cc] rotary

Your Top Flite Gold Edition DC-3 will perform well with
any of the engines within the recommended range, but
will handle best in an engine out situation with engines
closer to the higher end of the recommended size range.
The trade-off with larger engines is that you’ll have to
throttle back somewhat for your DC-3 to fly in a scale like

manner. If you choose to use .25 2-strokes, we
recommend stronger 2-strokes such as the O.S. .25 FX.
If you choose to use .40 2-strokes, “sport” .40's such as
the O.S. LA.40 perform well, but a .40 such as the O.S.
FX series will handle an engine out situation better. It’s
the same for 4-stroke engines; the .40 4-strokes have
plenty of power and will fly your DC well, but the .52's will
handle an engine out situation better.

The included Great Planes Adjustable Engine Mounts
will hold a range of engines from .25 cu. in. 2-stroke
through .40 cu. in. 4-stroke. The rotary engines use their
own integral backplate engine mounts.

RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR

You may build your DC-3 either with fixed or retractable
landing gear. All the hardware you need for realistic
appearing fixed gear is supplied with this kit. We do,
however, provide detailed instructions on how to install
retractable landing gear available from Top Flite. The
Top Flite retractable landing gear recommended and
shown in this manual is custom made for this DC-3.
They are pneumatic to simplify installation and hookup.
You may choose to use another type of retract but it is
up to you to make modifications required to fit them.

For Retractable Landing Gear you will need these items:

❏ Top Flite DC-3 Retracts (TOPQ8276)
❏ Robart #188VR Variable Rate Air Control Kit

(ROBQ2302)

❏ Robart #164G Hand Pump with Gauge (ROBQ2363)
❏ Micro servo to operate air control valve
❏ (2) Nylon ball link and 1/16" ball (GPMQ3842)
❏ (4) 4-40 x 1/2" socket head cap screws (GPMQ3012)
❏ (4) 3/16" wheel collars (GPMQ4308)
❏ (4) #4 x 1/2" screws
❏ (2) #4 x 1/4" screws
❏ (4) 4-40 blind nuts

FLAPS

Your DC-3 is designed to incorporate scale split flaps;
however, flaps are optional and not necessary for an
excellent flying experience. Without flaps, the takeoff roll
is longer and the landing speed is faster. If you do not
wish to build the flaps, just disregard parts of the manual
involving flap construction.

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a

top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the
quality and flyability of your finished model depends on
how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to
the performance or safety of your completed model.

- 3 -

The flaps are not difficult to build, but they do require
good craftsmanship to fit and operate well. Flaps add
nicely to the model's flight characteristics and scale
appearance. Slight trim changes are needed when flaps
are extended. The trim corrections are discussed later in
the manual during radio setup and you will find more
information on the use of the flaps in the

Flying

section.

For Flaps, you will need these additional items:

Two Standard servos
Y-connector
Servo extensions (if not part of the Y-connector)

SCALE RUDDER

You may build your DC-3 with either a standard in-line
hinged rudder or a scale appearing offset pinned hinge
rudder. The in-line hinged rudder is easier to build and is
hinged to the fin the same as any other model with
supplied CA hinges. But, the offset pinned hinge features
the offset hinge line characteristic of the DC-3. The scale
appearing offset hinged rudder does require more
craftsmanship to build than the standard rudder, so study
the plans carefully and think about it before you begin
that part of the model. All hardware required to build
either version is included with this kit.

PROPELLERS

Although there is no urgency at this point to decide
which propellers to use on your DC-3, we would like to
mention that we have had great success during our flight
testing using three-blade propellers. The nice thing about
using three-blade propellers with your DC-3 is first of all,
they provide more clearance between the propeller tip
and the fuselage, and second, they are scale! On the
O.S. .25 two-strokes we ran 10 x 4 three-blade
propellers. On the O.S. .52 four-strokes we ran 10 x 6
three-blade propellers. As with any model, you may
experiment with different propellers to find out what type
works best for you. We used Great Planes Aluminum
Spinner Hubs (GPMQ4630, 1/4-28 thread) which appear
scale as well.

COMPETITION-MINDED MODELERS

We designed our DC-3 from scale three-view drawings
supplied by Scale Model Research (address follows) and
photos taken of various DC-3's. The scale of your Gold
Edition DC-3 is 1:14, or one-fourteenth scale.

If you plan to enter your DC-3 in scale competition (it’s lots
of fun, and the runways are usually paved!), this kit qualifies
for Fun Scale and the

Sportsman

and

Expert

classes in
Sport Scale. Fun Scale and Sport Scale have the same
flight requirements where you must perform ten maneuvers
of which five are mandatory. The other five are up to you—
easy stuff like cycling your landing gear, a slow, low
“inspection pass” with flaps extended, or maybe a touch­and-go. If you have never competed in a scale contest, you
could start out in Fun Scale. In Fun Scale, the only
documentation you need for static judging is any proof that
a full size aircraft of this type, in the paint/markings scheme
on your model, did exist. A single photo, a kit box cover,
even a painting is sufficient proof! If you’re interested,
contact the AMA for a rule book which will tell you
everything you need to know. Look in the back of the AMA
magazine (

Model Aviation

) for a schedule of events.

The trim scheme we selected for our prototype on the kit
box cover is taken from Eastern Air Lines’ DC-3-201
NC18124. The last passenger flight of this subject took
place on October 12, 1952 after logging over 57,000 hours
in the air. It was then displayed at the Smithsonian but now
resides at the new National Air & Space Museum in
Washington D.C.

If you are not concerned with a scale trim scheme you can
make a variation of the one on the box, or design your own.
If you are going to compete in scale competition use the
photos in your documentation package as a guide for your
trim scheme.

DOCUMENTATION

Three view drawings and photo packs of full size
DC-3s are available from:

Scale Model Research

3114 Yukon Ave, Costa Mesa, CA 92626

[phone]

Fax: [phone]
Other sources of scale documentation include Squadron
Signal Publication’s book No. 1149 C-47 Skytrain in
Action, and various static display models such as
Monogram’s No. 5610 1:48 scale Eastern Air Lines DC-3.

DESIGNER NOTES

THIS SECTION

CONTAINS CRITICAL INFORMATION

CONCERNING YOUR DC-3 MODEL

The Top Flite DC-3 is a sport scale model of the Douglas
DC-3. The full size aircraft is gentle and forgiving, owing to
its excellent design and limited power. It is a classic aircraft
that has been flying for over sixty years. But, as an
overpowered model, it can be difficult to fly. Past models of
the DC-3, from other companies, have had a reputation for
unforgiving flight characteristics. Not so the Top Flight
DC-3. Built according to the instructions, you will be
rewarded with an aircraft every bit as good as the full size
DC-3. It is therefore essential that you build your model
according to the instructions in this manual.

SCALE ACCURACY

The Top Flite DC-3 is a faithful reproduction of the full
size aircraft, with a few exceptions. Flight testing of the
prototype models showed the need for some changes to
improve stability so that the average sport modeler could
handle this twin engine model.

1. The chord at the wing tips has been increased by 8%
to improve the stalling characteristics.

2. The scale airfoil blends into an S8037 at the tip to
improve the stalling characteristics.

3. The wing tips have washout of 2 degrees.

4. The engine nacelles have been lengthened by 1/2" to
allow room for retractable landing gear.

5. The engine nacelles have been moved 1/2" further
away from the fuselage to improve prop clearance.

6. The vertical fin/rudder area has been increased by
25% to improve single engine handling.

7. The horizontal stab/elevator area has been increased
by 23% to improve pitch control.

8. The engines incorporate 4 degrees of left/right thrust,
and 6 degrees of down thrust.

POWER

With two .40 2-stroke engines (or .52 4-stroke) the model
will fly very well, but not in a scale-like manner, as it will be
overpowered. It will take off in under ten feet and climb like
a typical overpowered model. Many modelers will like this,
but this is not my idea of a sport scale model of a DC-3. Of
course, one could control the throttles to fly the model in a
scale-like manner and save the reserve power for times
when it could be used effectively.

- 4 -

TWIN ENGINE AERODYNAMICS

A twin engine model flies no differently than a single
engine model - as long as both engines are properly
tuned and as long as both engines stay running! But ­sooner or later, you will lose an engine. I ask you, how
often do you lose an engine on your single engine
models? You’ll lose one twice that often on a twin!

If you lose an engine on a twin, there will be a directional
control problem! If the right engine fails, the left engine will
pull the nose of the aircraft to the right. On a full size aircraft
you use rudder to control the yaw and carefully control the
airspeed with the remaining engine. Do not use the rudder
on this DC-3 if an engine quits. Flying at too slow an
airspeed with one engine at full power could exceed the
ability of the control surfaces to control the yaw.

But with a model, you are standing on the ground and
can’t really tell which engine quit. About the only thing
you will notice from the ground when an engine fails is
that the wing will drop slightly on that side and the nose
will yaw a bit, much like hitting a bit of turbulence. You
simply don’t have enough visual clues to know which
control inputs will help and which will hurt.

Fortunately, the Top Flite DC-3 flies so well with an engine
out that you do not need to make any immediate control
inputs to control the model. As long as you maintain
adequate flying speed you will hardly notice that an engine
failed. This is where your engine selection will have an
influence. If you have installed .40 size 2-stroke engines,
or .30 Wankels, the model has more than adequate power
to continue flying on one engine. It will slow somewhat,
but it will fly very nicely. You will have plenty of time to
enter the pattern and land. If you have installed .25 size 2­stroke engines the model will slow quickly and you will
need to make an immediate landing. Just don’t allow the
model to get slow as there won’t be enough power to
accelerate without descending.

HOW TO HANDLE AN ENGINE FAILURE

If you have installed .25 size engines the model will slow
rapidly when an engine fails. The DC-3 is after all a high
drag aircraft. In this case you should reduce power on the
remaining engine and then glide back for a landing, just as
you would with a single engine model. DO NOT ATTEMPT
TO STRETCH YOUR GLIDE BACK TO THE RUNWAY
WITH HIGH POWER ON THE REMAINING ENGINE.

If you have installed larger engines you should have
adequate power to continue flying almost normally. I say
“almost” as there is a very important thing to consider; If
you allow the model to get too slow, you will lose control
when the yaw from the remaining engine overpowers the
effectiveness of the rudder. On twin engine aircraft the
fin/rudder will stall long before the wing does - full size or
model. The key is don’t get slow if the remaining engine
is at a high power setting. If you do, the model will do a
most beautiful snap roll. Recovery is easy - pull the good
engine to idle, lower the nose and glide in for a landing.

FLIGHT CHARACTERISTICS

Other than engine-out flying characteristics, there are a
few other flight qualities you should be aware of. The
engines are placed quite low in relation to the center of
the aircraft. This causes a pitch change when power is
changed. This is most noticeable when you go from idle
power to full power at a low airspeed - such as during a
go-around. Be prepared for this, adding a little down
elevator until the speed increases. Larger engines make
this characteristic more pronounced.

The placement of the fuel tanks in this model is difficult.
Although the best location for the tanks is in the nacelles,
if you are installing retracts the only available place is in
the wing center section. Modern engines have good fuel
draw so this should not create a problem, but older tired
engines may have difficulties. We did not experience any
problems with the many types of engines we tested on
our prototypes, but we did note one unusual thing: In a
turn the engines will have a slight RPM change. The low
engine will decrease RPM by a couple hundred and the
high engine will gain a couple of hundred. While slight,
this is enough for the aircraft to yaw slightly. It appears
that the aircraft is skidding in the turn, and it is! (A skid is
where the nose turns into the turn).

TWIN ENGINE TRAINING

Your Top Flite DC-3 represents a substantial investment
in time and money. For that reason, I suggest that you
start your multi-engine training with a model that you
won’t be so emotionally involved with. Get a Hobbico
TwinStar™for your training. It’s an ARF and will go
together in a couple of weekends. It is an excellent twin
engine trainer. It will save some serious knee knocking
time verses risking your Top Flite DC-3 and, it’s
inexpensive. Use the same engines on it that you will
use on your DC-3 so that you may thoroughly break
them in.

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED

These are additional items you will need to complete
your DC-3 that are

not included

with your kit. Order
numbers are in parentheses (GPMQ4130). Our
exclusive brand is listed where possible: TOP is the Top
Flite brand, GPM is the Great Planes brand, and HCA is
the Hobbico brand.

❏ 4 to 8 Channel radio with 6 to 9 servos (2 micro

servos required for throttle)

❏ Y-connector for aileron servos
❏ (2) 12" Servo extensions for aileron servos
❏ Y-connector or (2) 12" extensions for throttle servos

(see page 46 for more info on throttle hookup)

❏ (2) 3-1/4" Main Wheels (GPMQ4226)
❏ (4) 3/16" Wheel Collars (only required if installing

fixed landing gear) (GPMQ4309)

❏ 1-1/2" Tail wheel (GPMQ4283)
❏ (2) 3/32" Wheel Collars for tail wheel (GPMQ4302)
❏ (2) 8 oz. (GPMQ4103) (for smaller engines) or 10 oz.

Fuel Tanks (GPMQ4104)

❏ Approximately 80" medium silicone fuel tubing

(3) 36" pkgs. (GPMQ4131)

❏ (2) Fuel filler valves (GPMQ4160)
❏ (2) Propeller hubs (GPMQ4630)
❏ 1/2" (HCAQ1050) or 1/4" (HCAQ1000) R/C Foam

rubber padding

❏ 3 rolls of Top Flite Super MonoKote covering, see

Finishing

on page 58

❏ Paint, see

Finishing

on page 58

❏ Propellers

For additional information on how to handle your DC-3
in an engine out situation, refer to the “Engine Out”
section on page 65.

- 5 -

- 6 -

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

- 7 -

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

BUILDING SUPPLIES

Here’s a checklist of supplies you should have on hand
while you’re building. Some of these are optional. Use
your own experience to decide what you need. We
recommend Great Planes Pro™CA and Epoxy.

GLUE/FILLER

❏ 4 oz. Thin CA (GPMR6004)
❏ 4 oz. Medium CA+ (GPMR6010)
❏ 2 oz. Thick CA- (GPMR6015)
❏ CA Accelerator (GPMR6035)
❏ CA Debonder (GMPR6039)
❏ CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
❏ 30-minute (GPMR6047)

or

❏ 45-minute (GPMR6048) epoxy
❏ 6-minute epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ Pro Wood Glue (GPMR6161)
❏ Microballoons (TOPR1090)
❏ Milled Fiberglass (GPMR6165)
❏ Lightweight Hobby Filler (Balsa Color, HCAR3401)
❏ Auto body filler (Bondo®or similar)
❏ Isopropyl Alcohol (to clean up excess epoxy)

TOOLS

❏ #11 Blades (HCAR0311, 100 qty.)
❏ Single Edge Razor Blades (HCAR0312, 100 qty.)
❏ Razor Plane (MASR1510)
❏ Hobbico Builder’s Triangle (HCAR0480)
❏T-Pins (HCAR5100 (S), HCAR5150 (M), HCAR5200 (L)
❏ Drill Bits: 1/16", #41 (or 3/32"), 9/64" (or 1/8"), 5/32",

1/4", #10 (or 3/16") (or 1/4-20 tap and drill set),
#43(or 4-40 tap and drill set)

❏ 1/4-20 Tap and drill (GPMR8105)
❏ 4-40 Tap and drill (GPMR8101)
❏ Tap wrench (GPMR8120)
❏ Curved Tip Scissors (HCAR0667)
❏ Long handle 9/64" ball end hex wrench (GPMR8004)
❏ Silver Solder w/flux (GPMR8070)
❏ Great Planes Plan Protector (GPMR6167) or wax paper
❏ Masking Tape
❏ Easy–Touch

™

Bar Sanders*

❏ Dremel®#178 cutting bit for countersinking screws

in the servo hatch covers

RECOMMENDED COVERING TOOLS
AND ACCESSORIES

❏ Top Flite Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
❏ Top Flite Trim Seal Tool (TOPR2200)

-and-

❏ Top Flite Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
❏ Top Flite Hot Sock (TOPR2175)

-or-

❏ 21stCentury Sealing Iron (COVR2700)
❏ 21stCentury Cover Sock (COVR2702)

EASY-TOUCH™BAR SANDER

*A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a

necessity for building a well finished model. Great
Planes makes a complete range of Easy-Touch Bar

Sanders (patented) and replaceable Easy-Touch
Adhesive-backed Sandpaper. While building the DC-3

we used two 5-1/2" Bar Sanders and two 11" Bar
Sanders equipped with 80-grit and 150-grit Adhesive­backed Sandpaper. Here's the complete list of Easy­Touch Bar Sanders and Adhesive Backed Sandpaper.

5-1/2" Bar Sander (GPMR6169)

11" Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172)
33" Bar Sander (GPMR6174)
44" Bar Sander (GPMR6176)
11" Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190)

12' roll of Adhesive-backed sandpaper:

80-grit (GPMR6180)
150-grit (GPMR6183)
180-grit (GPMR6184)
220-grit (GPMR6185)

Assortment pack of 5-1/2" strips (GPMR6189)
We also use Top Flite 320-grit (TOPR8030, 4 sheets)

and 400-grit (TOPR8032, 4 sheets) wet-or-dry
sandpaper for finish sanding.

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

•

There are two types of screws used in this kit.

Sheet metal screws are designated by a number
and a length.

For example #6 x 3/4" [19.1mm]

Machine screws are designated by a number,
threads per inch and a length.

For example 4-40 x 3/4" [19.1mm]

•

When you see the term

test fit

in the instructions, it
means that you should first position the part on the
assembly without using any glue, then slightly modify
or

custom fit

the part as necessary for the best fit.

•

Whenever the term

glue

is used you should rely upon
your experience to decide what type of glue to use.
When a specific type of adhesive works best for that
step we will tell you what type of glue to use.

•

Whenever just

epoxy

is specified you may use

either

30-minute epoxy or6-minute epoxy. When 30-minute
epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that you
use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.

•

Occasionally we refer to the

top

or

bottom

of the model

or upor

down

. To avoid confusion, the

top

or

bottom

of the model is as it would be when the airplane is
right side up and will be referred to as the top even if
the model is upside down during that step,

i.e.

the top
main spar is always the top main spar even if the wing
is upside down when you are working on it. Similarly,

move the former up

means move the former toward
the top of the fuselage even if the fuselage is upside
down when you are working on it.

•

When you get to each step, read that step completely
through to the end before you begin. Frequently there
is important information or a note at the end of the step
that you need to know before you start.

- 8 -

•

Photos and sketches are placed ahead of the step
they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in

following steps to get another view of the same parts.

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

Deg = degrees Elev = elevator

Fuse = fuselage " = inches

LE = leading edge Ply = plywood

Stab = stabilizer TE = trailing edge

LG = landing gear mm = millimeters

TYPES OF WOOD

BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD

GET READY TO BUILD

1. Unroll the plan sheets. Roll them inside out so they lie
flat. Cut the left fuselage plan where indicated along the
dashed line and tape it to the right fuse plan
where indicated.

2. Remove all the parts from the box. Use a ballpoint pen
(not a felt tip pen) to lightly write the name or size on each
piece so you can identify it later. Use the

die-cut patterns

on pages 6 & 7 to identify and mark the die-cut parts
before you remove them from their die sheets. Many of
the parts already have numbers stamped on them, but in
some cases the number is located alongside the parts or
only on the die drawings on pages 6 and 7. You may
remove all the die-cut parts from their die sheets now or
wait until you need them. If a part is difficult to remove,
don’t force it out but cut around it with a #11 blade. After
you remove the parts from their die sheets, lightly sand
the edges to remove slivers or die-cutting irregularities.
Save some of the larger scraps of wood.

3. Separate the parts into groups such as stab, fin,
wing, and fuse. Store smaller parts in zipper-top food
storage bags.

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES

MAKE THE STAB & FIN SKINS

❏ 1. Use the

Hot Tip

that follows or your own method
to glue two 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets together to
make a 1/16" x 6" x 30" sheet for one of the stab skins.

❏ C. Place a sheet of Plan Protector or wax paper on
your workbench. Turn the taped together sheets over
and apply aliphatic resin (wood workers glue such as
Great Planes Pro) to the seams.

❏ B. Tightly tape the trued edges of the sheets together
with masking tape.

❏ A. Use a straightedge and a sharp #11 blade to
true one edge of both sheets. Do not cut all the way
through the first time but make several passes with
your knife to prevent the wood from splitting.

HOW TO MAKE THE STAB SKINS

Top Flite selects balsa that is intended for sheeting,
though occasionally a few of these sheets may have
a small nick or split near the ends. If your kit contains
a few of these sheets, arrange them and glue them
together so the defects will not interfere with the final
shape of the skin.

1/64" = .4mm
1/32" = .8mm
1/16" = 1.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm

1/8" = 3.2mm
5/32" = 4mm
3/16" = 4.8mm

1/4" = 6.4mm

3/8" = 9.5mm

1/2" = 12.7mm

5/8" = 15.9mm

3/4" = 19mm

1" = 25.4mm
2" = 50.8mm
3" = 76.2mm

6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm
15" = 381mm
18" = 457.2mm
21" = 533.4mm
24" = 609.6mm
30" = 762mm
36" = 914.4mm

METRIC CONVERSION

1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor)

- 9 -

❏ 2. Now that you’re familiar with making skins (if you
weren’t so already), make two more skins to be used for
the other side of the stab and both sides of the fin (after this
step you should have three 1/16" x 6" x 30" balsa sheets).

❏ 3. Cut the stab sheeting pattern and the scale or non-
scale fin sheeting pattern from the plan (make sure you

use the correct fin sheeting pattern depending on which fin
you are going to build). If you’re not sure yet which fin to
build, you can wait until later to cut the fin skin.

❏ 4. Place the stab sheeting pattern over one of the
skins. Cut one of the corners off the balsa sheet as
shown in the sketch and glue it to the front of the sheet

so it will be large enough to make a stab skin. After the
glue dries cut the skin slightly larger than the pattern to
allow some room for positioning. Make another stab skin
the same way.

❏ 5. Make two fin skins from the last 6" x 30" sheet
using the fin sheeting pattern as shown in the sketch.
Make sure you accurately cut the bottom of the fin skins
where they fit the stab because this helps to set the fin
at the correct angle to the stab and fuse.

❏ 6. After your skins are glued together and cut out,
remove the masking tape and sand the skins flat with
your bar sander and fresh 150-grit sandpaper. The idea
is to sand the skins before you glue them into place.
This minimizes low spots that can occur over the ribs
from sanding too much after you glue the sheeting
down. Set your fin and stab skins aside for now.

This is the same procedure we will recommend when it
is time to make the wing skins.

DC-3

Fact

The DC-3 has many names including

Dizzy Three,

Dakota, Skytrain, Spooky, Puff the Magic Dragon

and probably the most common,

Gooney Bird

.

❏ F. Place weights on top of the sheets to hold them
down (

see

page 12 on how to make

weight bags

). We
prefer plastic bags filled with lead shot, but anything
similar will do the job.

❏ E. Inspect the seam and press the sheets together
where they do not align.

❏ D. Use a credit card or something similar to
simultaneously press the sheets flat as you squeegee
the excess glue from the seam. Wipe the glue off your
squeegee so it’s ready for the next time. Immediately
proceed to the next step.

- 10 -

BUILD THE STABILIZER

❏ 1. Cut the stab plan along the dashed line and tape it
to your building board. Cover the stab plan with
Plan Protector.

❏ 2. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa stab TE spar to the
die-cut 1/8" balsa stab TE. These pieces are
symmetrical so it does not matter how you join them.

❏ 3. Insert all the die-cut 1/16" balsa stab ribs except
for rib S1 in the TE spar and place the assembly over
the plan.

❏ 4. Cut rib jigs from two 1/4" x 5/16" x 24" balsa sticks
and pin them to the plan on both sides of ribs S6, S4
and S2. Save the leftover 1/4" x 5/16" sticks for use
later. Make sure none of the rib jigs or the T-pins extend
beyond the front of the ribs. The rib jigs hold the ribs in
alignment over the plan without having to stick T-pins
through the ribs (which can be difficult). Use a small
square to align the trailing edge over the plan.

❏ 5. Make sure all the ribs are fully seated into the TE
and that the jig tabs are contacting the building board.
Use a square to make sure the TE is perpendicular to
your building board. Glue the ribs to the TE with thin CA.

❏ 6. Cut a 1-1/2" long piece from a 1/4" x 3/4" x 30"
balsa stick and glue it to the TE where shown on the
plan for the rudder torque rod block.

❏ 7. Glue rib S1 to the rudder torque rod block using two
more rib jigs to hold it in place like you did with the
other ribs.

❏ 8. Sand a bevel on the front of the ribs to
accommodate the aft sweep of the LE. Insert the die-cut
1/8" balsa stab LE brace in rib S1 between ribs S2
where shown on the plan. You can see the stab LE
brace in the next photo.

❏ 9. Cut the ends of both 5/16" x 15" shaped balsa
stab/fin leading edges so they match the plan. Position
one of the LE’s on the front of the ribs so the top of the
LE is even with the top of the ribs and glue into place.
Glue the other LE to the stab and glue the stab LE brace
into place.

❏ 10. Glue two die-cut 1/8" balsa stab tips together to
make a stab tip. Make another stab tip the same way.
Glue the stab tips to the stab where shown on the plan.
Make sure the tips are centered (vertically) on tip ribs S6
and the trailing edge.

❏ 11. Relocate any T-pins that are protruding above the
structure so they will not be in the way when you sand
the stab tip and the leading and trailing edges. Use a bar
sander and 80-grit sandpaper to bevel the top of the
stab tips to accommodate the sheeting. Shape the top of
the TE and LE to blend with the stab tips and the ribs.
We’ve marked the centerline of the stab tip and
highlighted the top of it so you can see how the stab tip
is tapered.

❏ 12. Before you sheet the top of the stab, refer to the
photo at step13. Use a ballpoint pen and a square to
mark the center of the stab and the root end of both
elevators on the TE of the stab. The marks will help you
align the stab with the fuse and align the elevators with
the stab later on.

- 11 -

❏ 13. Sheet the top of the stab with one of the stab skins
you’ve already prepared. We recommend using aliphatic

resin to glue the skin to the ribs and CA to glue the skin to
the TE, LE and tips. Wet the outside of the sheeting in the
middle near the leading edge. Apply aliphatic resin to the
ribs and position the top skin on the stab. Place your
weights on top of the stab skin, then use CA to glue the
skin to the LE, TE and tips. Leave the weights in position
until the aliphatic resin dries—thirty minutes to an hour is
enough time.

❏ 14. Remove the stab from your building board. Save
the rib jigs for building your fin. Turn the stab over and
cut the jig tabs from the bottom of the ribs, then trim the
bottom of the LE even with the ribs. Trim the stab tips
and the bottom of the TE near the tips the same way
you did on the top. Trim the bottom of the rudder torque
rod block even with the ribs.

❏ 15. Cut the stab hinge blocks from the same 1/4" x
3/4" balsa stick you used for the rudder torque rod block
a few steps earlier. Glue the hinge blocks to the TE, ribs,
and top sheeting where shown on the plan. Trim the
hinge blocks even with the TE and ribs.

❏ 16. Sheet the bottom of the stab with the other stab
skin you prepared. Use care not to add any twist to the
stab as it is no longer supported by the jig tabs. Once
again, we suggest using aliphatic resin to glue the skin
to the ribs and medium CA for the rest.

BUILD THE ELEVATORS

❏❏1. Mark the location of the elevator ribs on both sides
of one of the die-cut 3/32" balsa elevator cores where
shown on the plan. The easiest way to do this is to mark
just the front of the elevator, then use a small square to
extend the lines with a ballpoint pen. Note the alternate
scale location of the elevator ribs shown on the plan.

❏❏2. Cut the remainder of the 1/4" x 3/4" balsa stick
you used for the stab hinge blocks and an additional
1/4" x 3/4" x 30" balsa stick to the length shown on the
plan for the elevator leading edge. Use a straightedge
to draw line 5/16" from the edge of the elevator leading
edge. Glue the elevator core to the LE along the line—

When we glue sheeting to a structure (wing, stab, fin),
we use plastic bags filled with lead shot to hold the
sheeting down. These plastic bags filled with lead
take the shape of the curved surfaces to apply
uniform pressure and do not put marks in the balsa
wood. You can purchase lead shot at most stores
where hunting supplies are sold. We use #6 lead
shot. One 25 lb. bag costs approximately fifteen to
twenty dollars. You may use small zip lock food
storage bags to hold the shot. Tape the bags shut to
make sure they don’t open. Each bag should hold
between two to three lbs. of lead. Ten to fifteen two­to-three lb. bags should be enough for most projects.
You can see how we position our “weight bags”
further ahead in the manual during wing construction.

- 12 -

not directly on top of the line. Use a square to make sure
you glue the LE perpendicular to the elevator core.
Hint: Place a 1/4" piece of balsa under the square to
raise it to the level of the LE.

❏ 3. Prepare the other elevator the same way.

❏ 4. Apply about four small drops of medium CA, evenly

spaced, along the LE of one of the elevators and tack
glue it to the stab. When in place, the root end of the
elevator LE should be 1/16" beyond the mark you made
on the TE of the stab to accommodate the elevator root
cap ribs (refer to the plan). The elevator LE should also
be centered vertically on the stab TE. Practice alignment
before you tack glue the elevator. Tack glue the other
elevator to the other side of the stab the same way.

❏ 5. Use a razor plane or your bar sander to shape the
leading edge of the elevators to match the stab.

❏ 6. Use four 1/16" x 5/16" x 24" balsa sticks to make the
elevator ribs, and a piece of leftover 1/16" sheeting to
make the elevator root cap ribs (refer to the plan) for the
root end of the elevators. If you’ve decided to make the
scale location elevator ribs, use leftover 1/16" balsa
sheeting to make the additional ribs. Cut the sticks to the
correct length, then glue them to the elevator cores only
(don’t glue the elevator ribs to the elevator LE yet) making
sure the cores remain perpendicular to the LE’s as you
proceed. You can see the ribs in the following photo.

❏ 7. Make the elevator hinge blocks from a 1/4" x
5/16" x 24" balsa stick and 1/4" x 5/16" balsa you have
leftover from the rib jigs when you were building the
stab. Glue the hinge blocks to the elevators as shown on
the plan. Now you may glue the elevator ribs to the LE.

❏ 8. Proceed slowly and carefully, shaping the elevator
ribs and the hinge blocks to match the elevator LE and
the cross section on the plan. Make sure you sand the
ends of the ribs to a point as shown in the sketch.
Otherwise, covering the elevators will be difficult.

There. Now you have a nicely constructed stab with
elevators that accurately match. Just a few more things
to do and then we’ll move on to the fin and rudder

(which version are you going to build?)

.

❏ 9. Determine which side of the stab looks the best.
Designate that side as the top. Use a file or a rotary tool
with a cut-off wheel to remove sharp edges or burrs on
the ends of the elevator joiner wire. Position the elevator
joiner wire on the top of the stab as shown in the photo.
Mark the leading edge of the elevators where the

arm

portion of the joiner wire will enter as shown on the plan
❏ 10. Carefully

break

both elevators free from the stab.
Note which elevator matches which side of the stab.
Remove any

glue bumps

left from the CA you used to

tack glue the elevators to the stab.

❏ 11. Insert T-pins through the center of one of the
elevators LE’s, near the tip and near the root. Place a
straightedge across the T-pins and draw the centerline
on the elevator LE with a ballpoint pen. Draw a
centerline along other elevator LE and the TE of the stab
the same way.

DC-3

Fact

After presiding over various projects including the
Martin MB-2 bomber at the Glenn L. Martin
aircraft company, Donald W. Douglas Jr, born
April 6, 1892, co-founded the Davis-Douglas
Aircraft Company in the spring of 1920 with help
from David Davis, a millionaire with a great desire
to fly. By the mid 20's, Douglas designs were well
known throughout both the civilian and military
aircraft industry.

- 13 -

❏ 12. Mark the location of the hinge slots on the
elevators and stab where shown on the plan. With a #11
blade, cut the hinge slots in the elevators and the stab
along the centerlines you marked earlier

❏ 13. Using the sketch above, cut six hinges from the
CA hinge strip supplied with this kit. Snip the corners
off so they go into the slots easier. You may cut all the
hinges now, or cut them as you need them.

❏ 14. Test fit the hinges into the slots. If the hinges do
not slide into the slots easily, work your knife blade back
and forth in the slot a few times to provide more
clearance (it is really the back edge of the blade that
does the work here in widening the slot).

❏ 15. Drill a 3/32" hole, 1/2" deep in the center of the
hinge slots. Use a rotary tool with a 3/32" drill bit or a
carbide cutter for the best results. Reinsert your knife
blade to

clean out

the slot after you drill the holes.

❏ 16. Test fit the elevators to the stab with the hinges. If
any hinge slots are not wide enough or are misaligned,
make adjustments so the elevators accurately fit the stab.

❏ 17. Drill a 9/64" (or 1/8") hole at the marks you made
on the centerline of both elevator leading edges for the
joiner wire. Cut a groove in the leading edge of both
elevators to accommodate the joiner wire.
Hint: Use a 5/32" brass tube sharpened at one end to
cut the grooves.

❏ 18. Bevel the leading edges of the elevators to a “V” as
shown on the cross section of the plan. Use the centerline
on the elevator leading edges as a guide. Test fit the

elevators to the stab with the joiner wire and the hinges.
Note that the horn on the joiner wire points downward.
Cut a small notch in the TE of the stab for the horn on the
joiner wire. If necessary, remove the joiner and

tweak

it so

both elevators are in the same plane.
❏ 19. Once more, test fit the elevators to the stab with

the hinges and the joiner wire. Make sure you can obtain
the control throws indicated on page 62 of the manual. If
you cannot, increase the “V” on the leading edge of
the elevators.

Set the stab and elevators aside.

BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER

Now it’s time to decide which fin and rudder to build.
The non-scale fin and rudder is easier to build than the
scale fin and rudder while retaining the distinctive DC-3
outline. However, the scale fin and rudder utilize the
offset rudder hinge and balance tab. If you go for the
scale fin and rudder, we guarantee you’ll sit back and
grin as you watch others study the offset fin and rudder
on your DC-3 and admire your craftsmanship.

If you are going to build the non-scale fin and
rudder, proceed with the instructions that follow. If
you are going to build the scale fin and rudder, skip
to “Build the scale fin and rudder” on page 16.

Build the non-scale fin and rudder

❏ 1. Cut the fin and rudder plan from the fuse plan along
the dashed line and tape it to your building board. Cover
the plan with Plan Protector.

❏ 2. Apply medium CA to the embossed cutlines near the
trailing edge of the die-cut 1/16" fin ribs V1 through V7.

IMPORTANT NOTES ABOUT CA HINGES

This kit is supplied with a CA hinge material
consisting of a 3-layer lamination of Mylar and
polyester. It is specially made for hinging model
airplane control surfaces. When properly installed,
this type of CA hinge provides the best combination
of strength, durability and easy installation. We trust
all of our Gold Edition war birds to these hinges, but
it is essential to install them correctly. Carefully
follow the hinging instructions in this manual for the
best result.

The most common mistake made by modelers
when installing CA hinges is making the hinge slots
too tight restricting the flow of CA to the back of the
hinges; or not using enough glue to fully secure the
hinge over its entire surface area. This results in
hinges that are only

tack glued

into the hinge slots.
The techniques for cutting the hinge slots and
gluing in CA hinges (near the end of the manual)
have been developed to ensure thorough and
secure gluing.

- 14 -

WITH HOBBY KNIFE

CUT HINGE SLOT

AND #11 BLADE

1"
1"

3/4"

DRILL A 3/32" HOLE

1/2" DEEP, IN CENTER

OF HINGE SLOT

❏ 3. The same way you did for the stab, use your 1/4" x
5/16" rib jigs to hold the balsa fin ribs V1 through V7
over their location on the plan. Use a square to align the
ends of the ribs with the TE on the plan.

❏ 4. Cut the fin TE from a 1/8" x 1/2" x 24" balsa stick.
Align the top of the fin TE with the tops of the ribs allowing
the excess to protrude below the ribs (to be trimmed later)
and glue the fin TE to the fin ribs with thin CA.

❏ 5. Bevel the front of the fin ribs to accommodate the
fin LE. Cut the fin LE as shown on the plan from a 5/16"
x 15" shaped balsa stab/fin leading edge stick. Glue the
fin LE to the fin the same way you did the stab with the
excess protruding below the ribs.

❏ 6. Rearrange any T-pins that protrude above the
structure so they will not interfere with your bar sander.
Lightly sand the top of the LE and TE to match the airfoil
shape of the ribs to accommodate the fin skin.

❏ 7. If you haven’t yet done so, cut out your fin skins.
Sheet the left side of the fin with one of your fin skins
(don’t forget to use your left skin so the best looking side
is out). Make sure you position the skin accurately
because the bottom of the skin is what determines the fit
of the fin to the stab.

❏ 8. Remove the fin from your building board and trim
off the jig tabs. Trim the LE and TE to match the ribs.

❏ 9. Cut the fin hinge blocks from your leftover rib jigs
and glue them to the TE of the fin where shown on
the plan.

❏ 10. Sheet the other side of the fin with your other fin
skin. Be careful not to build any twist into the fin as you
press the skin in place.

❏ 11. Use your bar sander to sand the TE and top of the
fin square and even.

❏ 12. Trim 1/16" from the top of the die-cut 3/32" balsa
rudder core. Mark the location of the rudder ribs on
both sides of the rudder core.

❏ 13. Cut the remainder of the 1/4" x 3/4" x 30" balsa
stick you used for the elevator LE’s to the length shown
on the plan for the rudder LE. The same way you did for
the elevator LE’s, use a straightedge to draw a line 5/16"
from one edge of the rudder LE. Glue the die-cut 3/32"
balsa rudder core to the LE along the line. Use a square
to make sure you glue the core perpendicular to the LE.

❏ 14. Tack glue the rudder LE, centered, to the fin TE
with about four small drops of medium CA. Note that the
top of the rudder core is aligned with the top of the fin.

❏ 15. Use a razor plane or your bar sander to shape the
leading edge of the rudder to match the fin.

❏ 16. Refer to the following photo. From the 5/8" x
1-1/4" x 13" balsa block cut a 3-3/4" long piece for the
fin tip, 2-3/4" long piece for the rudder tip and a 3-1/2"
long piece for the rudder base. Glue the tips and base
in position (do not glue the fin tip to the rudder LE).

❏ 17. Use two 1/16" x 5/16" x 24" balsa sticks to make
the rudder ribs and glue them to the rudder core.

❏ 18. See the following photos and carefully taper the
rudder ribs and the rudder tip and rudder base toward the
rudder TE. Make sure you sand the ends of the ribs to a
point the same way you did for the elevator ribs. Carefully
shape the fin tip and the rudder tip to match the plan and
each other. Finish by rounding the leading edge of the fin,
then the fin and rudder tips. Don’t worry about shaping
the bottom of the rudder at this point. We can do that
when we join the tail cone to the fuse and rudder.

- 15 -

❏ 19. Cut the rudder hinge blocks from leftover rib jigs
and glue them to the rudder core and rudder LE where
shown on the plan. Blend the rudder hinge blocks to
the rudder.

❏ 20. The same way you did for the elevators and stab,
carefully

break

the rudder free from the fin, draw a centerline
on the rudder LE and the fin TE, mark and cut the hinge
slots, then drill the holes in the hinge slots and test fit the
rudder to the fin with the hinges. Bevel the leading edge of
the rudder to a “V.” Make sure you can achieve the throw
recommended on page 62 of the manual.

❏ 21. Mark the location of the rudder torque rod on the
rudder. Drill a 9/64" (or 1/8") hole at the mark you made
and cut a slot to accommodate the vertical part of the rod.

❏ 22. Tape the fin and rudder plan back to the fuse plan,
accurately aligning the reference lines.

Set the fin and rudder aside. Skip to “Build the
Fuselage” on page 20

(there’s another DC-3

Fact

within
the scale fin and rudder section that you may be
interested in).

BUILD THE SCALE FIN AND RUDDER

For easier identification while you proceed, here is a
drawing of some of the fin and rudder parts.

❏ 1. Cut the scale fin and rudder plan along the dashed
line and tape it to your building board. Cover the plan
with Plan Protector.

❏ 2. Accurately cut three 7/32" slots, 5/16" deep, in the die­cut 3/32" balsa rudder core in the location shown on the
plan to accommodate the rudder hinges. Mark the location
of the rudder ribs on both sides of the rudder core.

❏ 3. Accurately cut three guide tubes to the length
shown on the plan from a 3/16" x 36" outer pushrod
tube. Use coarse sandpaper to roughen the outside of
the guide tubes so the glue will stick.

❏ 4. Cut the die-cut 1/16" balsa fin ribs V2 through V7
at the embossed cutline toward the aft end of the ribs.

Before you proceed, it will be easier for you to build
the fin and rudder if you are able to visualize how
the hinge system operates and how all the parts fit
together. To do this, study the photos in this section
before you continue. Further, if you’ve ever had
aspirations of being a “neat and tidy” builder, now is
the time to exercise those thoughts—refrain from
using lots of glue and do not build up large fillets
that will interfere with sanding or the fit of joining
parts. Take your time and you’ll end up with a
beautiful scale fin and rudder that all of your friends
will marvel at.

DC-3

Fact

By the late 20's the air transportation industry was
rapidly expanding with small airline companies
springing up everywhere. Though major players
such as United, Transcontinental, Western and
American Airlines were well established, the
aircraft they used featured metal skinned, wooden
framed construction—technology leftover from
WWI aircraft. This

set the stage

for the demand
for an aircraft that could serve the growing
industry. Whichever aircraft that would be was
surely destined to become famous.

- 16 -

❏ 5. The same way you did for the stab, use your 1/4" x
5/16" rib jigs to hold the fin ribs V1 through V7 over their
location on the plan. Use a square to align the ends of
the ribs with the TE on the plan.

❏ 6. From the 1/8" x 3/4" x 30” balsa stick cut the four
fin TE sections that fit between ribs V7 and V6, ribs V6
and V4, ribs V4 and V2, and ribs V2 and V1. Don’t forget
to cut the bottom two sections long enough so you can
bevel the ends to the correct angle shown on the plan.
All the TE sections must be cut accurately and the ends
must be square (vertical).

❏ 7. Glue the fin TE sections to the fin ribs as shown on
the plan. Make sure the jig tabs of the ribs and each TE
section are resting on your building board over their
locations on the plan. Make sure you provide the 1/16"
space for the three plywood fin hinges where required.

❏ 8. Drill a 1/8" hole at the punch mark through all three
sets of die-cut 1/16" plywood rudder hinges R2, R4 and
R6. Press down on each piece as you drill to prevent the
wood from splitting as the drill goes through.

❏ 9. Drill a #41 (or 3/32") hole at the punch mark
through the three die-cut 1/16" plywood fin hinges V2A,
V4A and V6A.

❏ 10. Round the aft edge of the fin hinges as indicated
in the sketch and as shown in the photo at step 13.

❏ 11. Slide the 3/32" x 10" brass hinge tube into the
holes of the ply fin hinges. Space the hinges along the
hinge tube as shown on the plan and insert the hinges
into the fin assembly (refer to the following photo).

❏ 12. Make sure the hinges and the hinge tube will align
with the plan. If necessary, trim parts of the TE sections
or glue bumps that interfere. Make two small shims
from the 3/32" x 7/16" x 24" balsa stick and place them
under the hinge tube near the top and bottom hinges.
These will hold the tube level and align the fin hinges
with the fin.

❏ 13. Make sure the fin hinges are accurately aligned
with the fin ribs and that the hinge tube is aligned with its
location over the plan. Confirm by measuring the height
of the tube at each hinge. Glue the fin hinges to the ribs
with thin CA.

❏ 14. Bevel the front of the fin ribs to accommodate the
fin LE. Cut the fin LE as shown on the plan from a 5/16"
x 15" shaped balsa stab/fin leading edge stick. Glue the
fin LE to the fin the same way you did the stab with the
excess protruding below the ribs.

- 17 -

❏ 15. Insert an eyelet into each of the six rudder hinges.
Glue the eyelets in place with medium CA and allow to
fully cure before you proceed. Remove the brass hinge
tube from the fin and fit it through the fin and rudder
hinges as shown on the plan with the guide tubes you
cut earlier.

❏ 16. Cut the six forward and aft rudder LE sections
from the remainder of the 1/8" x 3/4" x 30" balsa stick
you used for the fin TE sections. You can see them in
the next photo. The same as the fin TE sections, you
must cut each rudder LE section accurately. Bevel the
bottom front forward LE section as shown on the plan.

❏ 17. Test fit but do not glue the rudder LE sections
where shown on the plan. Make adjustments as
necessary for a good fit. Add the top guide tube.

Are you

beginning to see how it works?

❏ 18. Cut the six 3/32" rudder hinge ribs (three for
each side of the rudder) from the 3/32" x 7/16" x 24"
balsa stick and the six 1/16" rudder ribs from the 1/16"
x 7/16" x 24" balsa stick.

❏ 19. Place the three 3/32" rudder hinge ribs between
the rudder hinges over the plan. These ribs will set the
correct

height

of the rudder core to keep it aligned with

the hinge line.

❏ 20. Fit the rudder core, resting on top of the 3/32" ribs,
to the hinges.

❏ 21. Place approximately 1/32" shims from cardstock
or something similar between the forward rudder LE
sections and the fin TE section. Carefully view the
structure, making sure everything is in alignment, and
glue the forward rudder LE sections to the ply rudder
hinges and glue the aft rudder LE sections to the rudder
core, hinge guides, and rudder hinges. Also glue the
rudder core to the rudder hinges. Make sure you do not
glue any of the rudder parts to any of the fin parts!

❏ 22. Rearrange any T-pins that protrude above the
structure so they will not interfere with your bar sander.
Lightly sand the top of the fin LE and TE and the rudder
LE sections to match the airfoil shape of the ribs, to
accommodate the fin skin.

❏ 23. If you haven’t already done so, cut out the fin skins.
Sheet the left side of the fin with one of the skins (don’t
forget to use your left skin so the good side is out). Make
sure you position the skin accurately because the bottom
of the skin is what determines the fit of the fin to the stab.
You may use medium CA for this if you work quickly and
carefully. Make sure you don’t inadvertently glue the
forward rudder LE to the fin TE or fin skin!

❏ 24. Use leftover 1/16" balsa to sheet the LE of the
rudder over the rudder LE sections as shown in the

- 18 -

photo. Be careful not to get any glue between the fin
hinge and the rudder hinges and don’t glue the rudder
sheeting to the fin sheeting.

❏ 25. Glue the rudder ribs you cut earlier to the left side
of the rudder core. Shape the ribs to match the cross
section on the plan and lightly sand the rudder sheeting
to match the fin.

Looking pretty good aye? All you have to do now is
finish the other side and add the tip blocks!

❏ 26. Carefully remove the fin and rudder from your
building board. Turn the assembly over and cut the jig
tabs from the ribs and trim the LE and TE sections to
match the airfoil and the cross section on the plan (the
same way you did with the other side of the fin and
rudder before you sheeted it).

❏ 27. Sheet the right side of the fin with the other fin
skin you prepared earlier. Use leftover 1/16" sheeting to
sheet the right side of the rudder leading edge sections
as well.

❏ 28. Add the 1/16" and 3/32" balsa rudder ribs to the
rudder. Sand the ribs to match the cross section on the
plan and to match the left side of the rudder.

❏ 29. Use a 1/8" drill or a 1/8" brass tube sharpened at
one end to cut a small groove in the bottom fin TE
section so the hinge tube can pass (and the rudder
torque rod later on).

❏ 30. Push the brass hinge tube down into the rudder
until the top of the hinge tube is even with the top of the
fin. Use your bar sander and 80-grit sandpaper to sand
the top of the fin and rudder flat and even.

❏ 31. Make the fin tip and rudder tip from the 5/8" x
1-1/4" x 13" balsa block. At this time, the only parts of
the tips you have to cut accurately are the opposing
ends at the hinge line. The outline of the tips only has to
be rough. You can final shape and round them later.

❏ 32. Glue the fin tip to the fin and the rudder tip to the
rudder with an approximate 1/16" gap between them.

❏ 33. Use your razor plane and your bar sander to shape
the fin LE and the rudder and fin tip to match the plan.

DC-3

Fact

In the early 20's the airline industry giants
announced that

the call was out

for an airplane
that could satisfy the demands of the growing
airline industry. Boeing was first to answer that
call with an all metal, twin engine monoplane
named the Model 247. United Air Lines ordered
sixty 247's locking up the entire Boeing assembly
line. The result was that other airlines would have
to wait until the United contract was fulfilled
before they could “get in on the action.”

- 19 -

❏ 34. Without separating the rudder from the fin (until
instructed to do so), carefully remove the brass hinge
tube by pulling it out from the bottom. Use a #11 blade
and a cut-off wßheel or file to sharpen one end of the
brass hinge tube as shown in the sketch and reinsert it
with the sharpened end going upward into the rudder.
Attach the bottom of the tube to a drill or a rotary power
tool and drill a

clean

hole up through the rudder tip block

until the brass hinge tube exits the top.

❏ 35. Now for the moment of truth. Pull the hinge tube
out and

carefully

separate the rudder from the fin.
There may be a few spots where you have inadvertently
glued the two together so be careful. Separate these
spots with a #11 knife if possible.

❏ 36. Glue the leftover piece of 5/8" x 1-1/4" balsa to the
bottom of the rudder and sand it to the shape of the

rudder base block shown on the plan. Fill the space
between the base block and the bottom rudder ribs with
leftover 1/16" balsa.

❏ 37. Use your sharpened brass hinge tube to drill a hole
through the rudder base block the same way you did the
rudder tip—only this time go down through the top.

❏ 38. Round the LE of the rudder as shown on the plan
to allow for control movement. Test fit the rudder to the fin
with the brass hinge tube. Move the rudder side to side
and look for areas that interfere with smooth movement.
Trim where necessary to achieve the control throws in the
back of the manual. Make sure the rudder tip and the fin
tip do not interfere. If they do, sand the front of the rudder
tip until you have achieved enough clearance.

❏ 39. Cut hinge caps from leftover 1/16" balsa and glue
them to the 3/32" ribs. These provide your covering with
something to bond to. Sand the hinge caps flush with
the rest of the rudder.

BUILD THE FUSELAGE

FRAME THE FUSELAGE TOP

❏ 1. If you haven’t already done so, tape the left fuse
plan to the right fuse plan so the dashed alignment
marks match up. Cut the fuselage top view from the rest
of the plan and tape it to your building board. Cover the
plan with Plan Protector.

❏ 2. Refer to the photo at step six and glue the die-cut
1/8" balsa former F1 to the front of the die-cut 1/8"
plywood cabin crutch, making sure F1 is at a 90 degree
angle. After the glue dries, bevel the sides of F1 to
match the sides of the cabin crutch.

❏ 3. Pin the cabin crutch over its location on the plan.

❏❏4. Gather the three 3/16" x 3/8" x 36" grooved

main stringers. Cut one of the stringers into two 18"
long pieces. Place an 18" main stringer on top of a 36"
main stringer so the ends align. Cut the stringers near
the ends at approximately a 45 degree angle as shown
in the sketch (use your miter box if you have one). The
two angled cuts will be spliced together at former F-9.

❏❏5. Use a razor saw to cut small notches, 3/32"
deep, in the inside of the 36" stringer near the front so it
will bend around the cabin crutch.

- 20 -

❏❏6. Pin the two stringers to the plan so the angled

splice

is at former F9 as shown on the plan. Glue the
front of the stringer to the cabin crutch and glue the
stringers to each other where they meet at F9.

❏ 7. Repeat steps 4, 5 and 6 with an additional 36" long
grooved main stringer and the remaining 18" long
grooved main stringer.

❏ 8. Refer to the

Pushrod Locations

area on the fuse
plan and drill 3/16" holes through the punch marks in the
die-cut 1/8" plywood formers F9, F10 and F11.

❏ 9. Drill 1/16" holes through the punch marks in the
die-cut 1/8" plywood former F12. Draw a vertical

centerline connecting both punch marks on one side of
F12 (this will be the front) and horizontal guidelines
1/16" above and below the punch marks on the other
side of F12 (this will be the back).

For illustration

purposes the photo shows two F12's.

❏ 10. Test fit all the die-cut 1/8" plywood formers (F2
through F10 and former F12) to the main stringers over
their location on the plan. You may need to bevel the
notches in some of the rear formers to accommodate
the angle at which they join the main stringers. Use a
small square to make sure the formers are vertical and
glue them to the main stringers. Make sure the
centerline on former F12 is aligned over the centerline
on the plan. Don’t be concerned if the formers are
slightly warped. You will be able to straighten them
when you add the stringers.

❏ 11. Cut 1-1/4” from the aft end of one of the die-cut
1/8" plywood stab saddles to accommodate the rudder
torque rod arm. This will be the left stab saddle.

❏ 12. Test fit, then glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood stab
saddles and former F11 to the main stringers and

former 12. Note that the front of the saddles tilt inward
yet the rear of the saddles remain vertical.

❏ 13. Cut one of the three 1/8" x 3/16" x 36" main sub
stringers into two 18" long pieces. These will be for the

front of the fuse. Use your razor saw to cut notches in the
front of the 18" sub stringers the same way you did for the
main stringers to permit bending. Glue the main sub
stringers in the groove of the main stringers on both sides
of the fuselage. Glue two additional 1/8" x 3/16" x 36"
main sub stringers to the main stringer on both sides of
the fuse.

❏ 14. Temporarily place the stab on the stab saddles
and hold it in place with weights. Cut the end of a

Disregard the shape of F12 in the following photos
until you get to step three on page 25. During
development of our prototype the shape of F12 was
changed. This does not change construction so
proceed as the instructions indicate.

- 21 -