Top Flite A0415 INSTRUCTION BOOK

WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty

does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite‘s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Fur ther, Top Flite
reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall
be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user
accepts all resulting liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in

new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

Top Flite Models 3002 N. Apollo Dr., Suite 1, Champaign, IL 61822 Technical Assistance Call [phone] [e-mail]

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

USA

MADE IN

P47GP03 V1.1

Entire Contents © Copyright 2008

Wingspan: 85 in [2159mm]
Wing Area: 1327 sq in [85.6 sq dm]
Weight: 20-22 lbs [9-10kg]
Wing Loading: 34.7-38.2 oz/sq ft

[106-117 g/sq dm]

Length: 75.5 in [1918mm]

™

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Engine selection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Radio system requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Landing gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Cockpit & pilot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Tr im scheme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Razorback or bubble canopy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

COMPETITION-MINDED MODELERS . . . . . . . .4

Scale documentation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

BUILDING SUPPLIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Adhesives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

COVERING TOOLS & ACCESSORIES . . . . . . . .6

METRIC CONVERSIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . .7

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

TYPES OF WOOD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

DIE-CUT PATTERNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 & 9

GET READY TO BUILD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Build the stabilizer and elevators . . . . . . . . . .10

Build the fin and rudder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Hinge the elevators and rudder . . . . . . . . . . .15

BUILD THE FUSELAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Build the fuse top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Sheet the fuse top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Build the fuse bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Sheet the fuse bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Build the dorsal fin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Intercooler doors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Mount the engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Hook up the controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Finish the cockpit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

BUILD THE WING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Make the wing skins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Build the wing panels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Sheet the top of the wing panels . . . . . . . . . .34

Mount the landing gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Join the wing panels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Sheet the bottom of the wing . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Build the ailerons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

Build the flaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40

Make the servo hatches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

Hook up the controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

Finish the wheel wells . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43

FINAL CONSTRUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45

Mount the wing to the fuse . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45

Build the wing fillets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

Build the belly pan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47

Assemble the cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

Balance the airplane laterally . . . . . . . . . . . . .51

FINISHING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51

Final preparations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51

Painting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52

Covering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53

Cover the fuse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53

Cover the wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55

Apply the decals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55

Apply panel lines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55

FINAL ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55

Join the control surfaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55

Hook up the controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56

Scale details . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56

Mount the canopy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57

Static display propeller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57

GET YOUR MODEL READY TO FLY . . . . . . . .58

Balance your model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58

Set the control surface throws . . . . . . . . . . . .59

PREFLIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59

Identify your model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59

Charge your batteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59

Balance your propellers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59

Ground check your model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59

Range check your radio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . .60

AMA SAFETY CODE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60

IMAA SAFETY CODE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60

CHECK LIST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62

FLYING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62

Takeoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63

Flight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63

Landing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63

3-VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .BACK COVER

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the

Top Flite Giant Scale Gold Edition P-47

Thunderbolt

.We are pleased to bring you this 1/6th
scale P-47, an enlarged version of our highly
successful 1/8th scale P-47. Due to the popularity
and success of the smaller P-47, this may be our
most anticipated project yet.The P-47 has long been
recognized as an excellent modeling subject. The
large wing and tail area and long tail moment make
it an ideal flying airplane–especially for a warbird! In
addition to the favorable proportions of the P-47, the
kit's custom airfoils, built-in washout and right engine
thrust make this model a sweet flying plane.
Advanced 3-D computer engineering and
interlocking construction techniques combined with
wing sheeting jigs help you build a straight,
lightweight model.

With this kit you can achieve whatever level of detail
you like. Just by following the instructions and
finishing the plane in a scale-looking trim scheme,
beginning scale modelers will end up with a model
that very much represents a full-size P-47.
Experienced builders will find ways to add e v en more
detail, making the Top Flite Giant Scale

Gold Edition

P-47 competitive in scale contests.

Your P-47 is not a toy, but a sophisticated working
model that functions very much like an actual
airplane. Because of its realistic performance, if you
do not assemble and operate your P-47 correctly,
you could possibly injure yourself or spectators and
damage property.

PRO TECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF & OTHERS

FOLLO W THESE IMPOR T ANT

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

- 2 -

If this is your first giant scale project, get
assistance with assembly and your first flights
from an experienced, knowledgeable modeler.

You’ll avoid risking your model before you’re ready to
fly it for the first time. Your local hobby shop has
information about flying clubs in your area whose
membership includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,500
chartered clubs across the countr y. We recommend
you join the AMA which will insure you at AMA club
sites and events. AMA Membership is required at
chartered club fields where qualified flight instructors
are available. Contact the AMA at the address or toll­free phone number below.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

[phone]

Fax [phone]

or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

1. Y ou m ust build the plane accor ding to the plan and
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as
doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In

a few cases the plan and instructions may differ
slightly from the photos. In those instances the
plan and written instructions are correct.

2. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first
class condition, the correct sized engine and correct
components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout
your building process.

4. You must properly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates properly on
the ground and in the air.

5. You must test the operation of the model before
every flight to insure that all equipment is operating
and you must make certain that the model has
remained structurally sound.

6. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot,
you must fly the model only with the help of a
competent, experienced R/C pilot.

Please inspect all parts carefully before you start
to build! If any parts are missing, broken or
defective, or if you have any questions about
building or flying this model, please call us at:

[phone] or e-mail us at

[e-mail]

If you are calling for replacement parts, please
look up the part numbers and the kit
identification number (stamped on the end of the
carton) and have them ready when you call.

instructions show a Great Planes®Isolation Mount
(GPMG2000) with the U.S. Engines™41cc engine.
J-Tec, Soundmaster and others produce soft mounts
for large engines as well.

RADIO SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS

For operations other than flight-critical control surfaces
(such as the tail wheel steering, throttle, air control
valve, flaps and optional onboard ignition kill s witch f or
gas engines), you may use standard servos.
Frequently, we even use a micro servo for the air
control valve. For flight-critical control surfaces
(ailerons, elevators, rudder), this model requires five
“high-torque” servos. IMAA recommendations specify
servos with a minimum of 45 inch-ounces of torque.
However, some standard servos supply nearly that
much, so for the giant P-47 we suggest servos with at
least 50 inch-ounces of torque.Another reason to use
servos with a higher torque rating is that they have
stronger centering capabilities with less free-play. A
servo that holds strongly when centered is necessary
to prevent flutter on giant models. Futaba 9001’s are
shown in the model in this manual.We use them in our
giant warbird flying prototypes. 9001’s put out
approximately 54 inch-ounces of torque and are
suitable for your P-47 if it is powered by most of the
engines within the recommended range (such as the
US Engines 41cc). If you are using a more powerful
engine and plan to fly your model at high speeds,
servos closer to 70 inch-ounces of torque are
recommended.There are many high torque, standard
size servos available, but larger 1/4-scale servos may
be used in this model too. The servo tray in the
fuselage and the servo hatches in the wing are
designed to fit standard size servos. If you choose to
use large 1/4-scale servos, you will hav e to modify the
servo trays or make your own to accommodate
the servos.

The minimum capacity of a receiver battery pack required
for this model is 1000 mAh.Receiver packs having 1200
to 1400 mAh are preferable. Some modelers use 6-volt
(five cell) 1200 to 1500 mAh packs.

ENGINE SELECTION

Recommended engine size:

34.5 - 45cc (2.1 - 2.8 cu. in.) displacement

Glow Engine

41 - 70cc (2.5 - 4.2 cu. in.) displacement

Gasoline Engine

We strongly recommend the use of a soft engine
mount to relieve the stresses on the airframe and
radio system and to make your aircraft quieter.The

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you

with a top quality kit and great instructions, but
ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished
model depends on how you build it;therefore, we
cannot in any way guarantee the performance of
your completed model, and no representations
are expressed or implied as to the performance or
safety of your completed model.

- 3 -

COMPETITION-MINDED MODELERS

The outline of the Top Flite

Gold Edition

P-47 was
derived from three-view drawings and photos. The
elevator and rudder hinge lines have been modified
to simplify assembly and to use standard model
hinging techniques. The landing gear has been
slightly relocated to improve handling and durability
and the wheels are smaller than scale to fit in the
space available. The landing gear does not retract
fully into the wheel wells, but protrudes below the
wing by approximately 3/16".

The approximate scale of this model is 1:5.6.
If you plan to enter your P-47 in scale competition (it’s

lots of fun and the runways are usually paved!), this kit
may be entered in Fun Scale, Sportsman Scale and
Expert Scale classes in AMA competition. All classes
have the same flight requirements in which you must
perform ten maneuvers, five of which are mandatory.
The other five are up to you–“easy”stuff like a slow, low
“inspection pass”with flaps extended, or ma ybe a touch­and-go. If you have never competed in a scale contest,
you could start out in Fun Scale. In Fun Scale, the only
documentation required for static judging is any proof
that a full-size aircraft of this type, in the paint/markings
scheme on your model, did exist. A single photo, a kit
box cover from a plastic model, or even a painting is
sufficient proof! If you’re interested, contact the AMA for
a rule book that will tell you everything you need to know .
You can find a contest schedule in the back of the AMA
magazine (Model Aviation).

One last note for those who are interested in scale
competition: Strive to build your model to reflect your
documentation. Whatever lines and features appear
on the full size plane should also appear on your
model.Refer to the photos and documentation of the
P-47 you are using for your model.

TRIM SCHEME

The colorful “Tarheel Hal” trim scheme on the kit
box cover is rather bold and ambitious, but can be
accomplished by modelers who have experience
with iron-on coverings. Top Flite MonoKote®was
used for the covering and LustreKote®was used
for the paint. Refer to the back of this manual for
more information about painting and covering (and
for more details that may help you to decide
whether or not to attempt this scheme).

The primary colors of MonoKote film required for
“Tarheel Hal” are aluminum (main portions of fuse
and wing), orange (tail) and royal blue (front of
fuse). Additionally, you will need small amounts of
insignia blue, cub yellow and missile red (for the
flag on the rudder), black and jet white (for the
invasion stripes) and flat black (for the anti-glare
panels on the top of the fuse).

The colors of LustreKote paint required are two
cans of white primer and one can each of
aluminum, royal blue, missile red, cub yellow, flat
black, crystal clear and gloss black. If you’ll be
painting the intercooler doors to match the stars
and bars on the side of the fuse, you’ll also need a
small amount of insignia blue.

RAZORBACK OR BUBBLE CANOPY

The Giant P-47 may be constructed as either a
D-23

Razorback

or a D-25

Bubble Canopy

(it
should be noted that not all bubble canopy P-47’s
featured a dorsal fin).This kit includes all the wood
parts and complete instructions to build either
version, but includes the bubble canopy only. The
razor back canopy is available separately if you
wish to build the D-23 version (order number
TOPQ8042).You don’t have to decide which one
to build until you get to the turtle deck when you’re
building the fuse.

Be certain your servos, receiver, on/off switch
and charging system are compatible with your battery
pack. Use servo extension cords and Y-connectors
where required. It is likely that you will need these for
flaps and ailerons.Connections between servo cords
and extension cords or Y-connectors should be
secured with heat shrink tubing, vinyl tape or special
clips intended for this purpose.

LANDING GEAR

The Top Flite

Giant

P-47 uses Robart #622
retractable main landing gear which are designed
specifically for this model and a #160LWC
retractable tail gear. Other systems may work, but
it will be up to you to make the modifications
required to fit them. Following is a list of items
required for the retracts.

Robart # 622 Top Flite Giant P-47 main landing

gear retracts (ROBQ1636)
Robart #160LWC Retractable tail gear (Robart direct)
Robart #157VR Air Control Kit w/ variable rate

valve (ROBQ2301)
Robart #192 Large Pressure Tank (ROBQ2392)
Robart #164G 100 PSI Pump w/gauge

(ROBQ2363)
Robart # 190 Quick disconnects (ROBQ2395)
Pull-Pull cable kit for tail wheel steering (SULQ3120)
(16) #6 x 1/2" screws for mounting main and tail

gear (GPMQ3160, 4 per pack)

COCKPIT & PILOT

Your

Thunderbolt

won’t be complete without the Top
Flite Giant P-47 Cockpit Kit (TOPQ8410).It includes
the floor, side panels, instrument panel, seat,
headrest and hardware. The cockpit kit can be
installed after the fuselage is completed, but is easier
to install if you have it on hand during construction.

Top Flite offers two 1/5 scale WW II Military Pilots
specially made for the Giant Scale Gold Edition
kits. One is a full body pilot (TOPQ9030) and the
other is a bust only (TOPQ9032).

- 4 -

SCALE DOCUMENTATION

Three-view drawings and photo packs of full size
P-47’s are available from:

Scale Model Research

3114 Yukon Ave, Costa Mesa, CA 92626

[phone]

Fax:[phone]

Even if you’re not intending to build your P-47 for
competition, photos and color drawings of P-47s are
extremely useful for completing much of the detail
work such as the intercooler doors, turbo­supercharger exhaust, oil cooler shutters, antenna
mast, panel lines, etc. Squadron/Signal Publications
has a series of books with dozens of close-up photos
and highly accurate color drawings featuring trim
schemes that may help you decide how to finish y our
model. Two of the P-47 books are listed below and
are available from most hobby shops.

P-47 Thunderbolt in action, No.1067 (order
number SSPZ1067)

-and-

Thunderbolt, The Republic P-47 Thunderbolt
in the European Theater, No. 6076 (order
number SSPZ6076)

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED

These are the additional items you will need to
complete your P-47 that have not already been
mentioned and are not included with the kit. Order
numbers are in parentheses (HCAM2200).TOP is the
Top Flite brand, GPM is the Great Planes brand and
HCA is the Hobbico®brand.

❏ 6 - 7 Channel radio with 10 servos and a high

capacity receiver battery pack

, see

RADIO

SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS

❏ (2) 24" Aileron servo extension cords

(HCAM2200 - Futaba J)

❏ Y-Connector har ness for flap servos

(HCAM2500 - Futaba J)

❏ Switch/charging jack mount kit (GPMM1000)
❏ Gasoline or glow engine (

see

Engine Selection)

❏ Propellers (refer to the instructions that come

with your engine)

❏ Great Planes 32 oz. fuel tank (this tank is

suitable for gas and glow fuel, GPMQ4115)

❏ Fuel line for gas engines (Du-Bro Tygon, 1/8"

ID, 3' DUBQ0493)

-or­Fuel line for glow engines (Large silicone
tubing, 2' GPMQ4133)

❏ Fuel filler valve for glow fuel (GPMQ4160)

-or­Fuel filler valve for gas (GPMQ4161)

❏ (2) 5" dia. Main wheels (DUBQ0847)
❏ 1-3/4" Tailwheel (GPMQ4220)
❏ 2 pkgs #310 Robart Super Hinge Points (R OBQ2510)
❏ R/C Foam padding (1/4", HCAQ1000, or 1/2",

HCAQ1050)

❏ Top Flite 1/5th Scale Replica Radial Engine

(TOPQ7903)

❏ Top Flite MonoKote covering (

see

Finishing

section)

❏ Paint (

see

Finishing section)

❏ 3 pkgs #366 Du-Bro Large Control Horns (DUBQ1985)
❏ 4 pkgs #4 x 1/2" Screws (GPMQ3154)

BUILDING SUPPLIES

Here’s a list of supplies you should have on hand
while you’re building. Some of these are optional.
Use your own experience to decide what you need.
We recommend Great Planes Pro CA and Epoxy.

ADHESIVES

❏ 4 oz.Thin CA (GPMR6004)
❏ 4 oz. Medium CA+ (GPMR6010)
❏ 2 oz.Thick CA- (GPMR6015)
❏ CA Accelerator (GPMR6035)
❏ CA Debonder (GMPR6039)
❏ CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
❏ 30-minute Epoxy (GPMR6047)

or

45-minute Epoxy (GPMR6048)

❏ 6-minute Epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ Pro Wood Glue (GPMR6161)
❏ J & Z Products Z RC/56 canopy glue (JOZR5007)
❏ Microballoons (TOPR1090)
❏ Milled Fiberglass (GPMR6165)
❏ Lightweight Hobby Filler (Balsa Color, HCAR3401)
❏ Auto body filler (Bondo®or similar)
❏ Isopropyl Alcohol (to clean up excess epoxy)
❏ 3M 75 Repositionable spra y adhesive (MMMR1900)

TOOLS

❏ #11 Blades (HCAR0311, 100 qty.)
❏ Single-Edge Razor Blades (HCAR0312, 100 qty.)
❏ Razor Plane (MASR1510)
❏ 1/4-20 Tap & drill (GPMR8105)
❏ Hobbico Builder’s Triangle (HCAR0480)
❏ T-Pins (HCAR5100 (S), HCAR5150 (M),

HCAR5200 (L)

❏ Drill Bits: 1/16", 3/32", 7/64", 5/32", 3/16", #7 or

13/64" (not required if you have a 1/4-20 tap

Your Top Flite Gold Edition Giant P-47 is intended
for scale and general sport flying, including mild
aerobatics such as loops, stall turns, rolls, etc. Its
structure is designed to withstand such stresses.
If you intend to use your P-47 for more rigorous
types of flying such as aggressive aerobatics or
racing, it is your responsibility to reinforce areas
of the model that will be subjected to the resulting
unusually high stresses.

- 5 -

and drill set), #9 or 13/64" (for enlarging hole in
tail wheel to fit on tail axle), 17/64", 19/64" (or
5/16"), 1/4", size “F

”

(or 1/4"— for enlarging hole
in main wheels to fit landing gear axles), 1/2"
(optional for landing gear cover mounts—see
page 44),

❏ Curved-Tip Scissors (HCAR0667)
❏ Long handle 7/64" ball end hex wrench

(GPMR8003)

❏ Silver Solder w/flux (GPMR8070)
❏ Great Planes Plan Protector (GPMR6167) or

wax paper

❏ Masking Tape (TOPR8018)
❏ Dremel

®

#178 cutting bit (for countersinking

screws in the servo hatch covers)

❏ Robart®Super Stand II (ROBP1402)

Note: In several instances the manual suggests
using K & S brass tubing sharpened at one end to
cut accurate, clean holes in balsa. Use a rotar y tool
with a cut-off wheel to sharpen the outside edge of
the tube and a hobby knife to sharpen the inside
edge of the tube.The sizes of tubing used are 5/32",
3/16", 7/32", 1/4" and 9/32".

CO VERING TOOLS AND

ACCESSORIES

❏ Top Flite Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
❏ Top Flite Tr im Seal Tool (TOPR2200)

-and-

❏ Top Flite Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
❏ Top Flite Hot Sock (TOPR2175)

-or-

❏ 21st Centur y

®

Sealing Iron (COVR2700)

❏ 21st Centur y Cover Sock (COVR2702)

EASY-TOUCH™BAR SANDER

A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a necessity
for building a well finished model.Great Planes makes a
complete range of patented Easy-Touch Bar Sanders
and replaceable Easy-Touch Adhesive-backed
Sandpaper.While building the Thunderbolt we used two
5-1/2" Bar Sanders and two 11" Bar Sanders equipped
with 80-grit and 150-grit Adhesive-backed Sandpaper.

Here’s the complete list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders
and Adhesive Backed Sandpaper:

5-1/2" Bar Sander (GPMR6169)
11" Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172)
33" Bar Sander (GPMR6174)
44" Bar Sander (GPMR6176)
11" Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190)
22" Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6191)

12' roll of Adhesive-backed sandpaper

80-grit (GPMR6180)
150-grit (GPMR6183)
180-grit (GPMR6184)
220-grit (GPMR6185)

Assortment pack of 5-1/2" strips (GPMR6189)

We also use Top Flite 320-grit (TOPR8030, 4 sheets)
and 400-grit (TOPR8032, 4 sheets) wet-or-dry
sandpaper for finish sanding.

1/64" = .4mm
1/32" = .8mm
1/16" = 1.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm

1/8" = 3.2mm
5/32" = 4mm
3/16" = 4.8mm

1/4" = 6.4mm

3/8" = 9.5mm

1/2" = 12.7mm

5/8" = 15.9mm

3/4" = 19mm

1" = 25.4mm
2" = 50.8mm
3" = 76.2mm

6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm
15" = 381mm
18" = 457.2mm
21" = 533.4mm
24" = 609.6mm
30" = 762mm
36" = 914.4mm

METRIC CONVERSION

1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor)

We recommend using plastic bags filled with lead
shot for building weights. They assume the shape
of the curved surfaces to apply uniform pressure
without making dents in the balsa. You can
purchase shot at sporting goods stores where
hunting supplies are sold. We use #6 lead shot.
One 25 lb. bag costs about fifteen to twenty dollars.
You can use small sealable food storage bags to
hold the shot.Tape them shut for security. Each bag
holds about two to three pounds.Fifteen to twenty
bags may be required for a giant scale project.

- 6 -

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

There are two types of screws used in this kit:
Sheet metal screws are designated by a number

and a length.

For example #6 x 3/4" [1.91mm]

Machine screws are designated by a number,
threads per inch, and a length.

For example 4-40 x 3/4" [1.91mm]

•

When you see the term

test fit

in the instructions,
it means that you should first position the part on
the assembly without using any glue, then
slightly modify or

custom fit

the part as necessar y

for the best fit.

•

Whenever the term

glue

is used you should rely
upon your experience to decide what type of glue to
use. When a specific type of adhesive works best
for that step we will tell you what type of glue to use .

•

Whenever just

epoxy

is specified you may use

either

30-minute epoxy or6-minute epoxy.When 30-minute
epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that
you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy
because you will need the working time and/or the
additional strength.

•

Occasionally we refer to the

top

or

bottom

of the

model or upor

down

. To avoid confusion, the

top

or

bottom

of the model is as it would be when the
airplane is right side up and will be referred to as
the top even if the model is upside-down during
that step,

i.e.

the top main spar is always the top

main spar even if the wing is upside-down when

you are working on it. Similarly,

move the former

up

means move the former toward the top of the
fuselage even if the fuselage is upside-do wn when
you are working on it.

•

When you get to each step, read that step
completely through to the end before you begin.
Frequently there is important information or a note
at the end of the step that you need to know before
you start.

•

Photos and sketches are placed before the step
they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in
following steps to get another view of the same parts.

•

Note that there are four plan sheets.Two of them
must be cut along the dashed lines and joined with
tape.The other two plans are used separately.

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

Deg = degrees Elev = elevator

Fuse = fuselage " = inches

LE = leading edge Ply = plywood

Stab = stabilizer TE = trailing edge

LG = landing gear mm = millimeters

TYPES OF WOOD

BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD

- 7 -

- 8 -

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

- 9 -

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

GET READY TO BUILD

1. If you’ve already purchased your retractable
landing gear, or as soon as y ou do, take the air lines
out of the package, unravel them and hang them
somewhere in your shop. By the time you are ready
to install the air lines, all the kinks will be out and
they’ll be easier to work with.

2. Unroll the plan sheets. Roll them inside out so
they lie flat. Cut one of the fuse plan sheets along
the dashed lines.Align the plan that you cut with the
dashed lines on the other fuse plan and tape them
together.Do the same thing with the wing plan when
you are ready to build the wing.

3. Remove all the parts from the box. IMPORTANT:
Use a ballpoint pen (not a felt tip pen) to write the
name or size on each piece so you can identify it
later. Use the

die-cut patterns

on pages 8 & 9 to
identify and mark the die-cut and laser-cut parts
before you remove them from their die sheets. Many
of the parts already have numbers stamped on them,
but in some cases the numbers are located alongside
the parts or only on the die drawings in the
manual. You may remove all the die-cut parts from
their die sheets now, or wait until you need them. If a
part is difficult to remove, don’t force it out, but cut
around it with a hobby knife and a #11 b lade.After you
remove the parts from their die sheets, lightly sand
the edges to remove slivers or die-cutting
irregularities.Save some of the larger pieces of w ood.

4. Separate the parts into groups such as stab, fin,
wing and fuse. Store smaller parts in zipper-top
food storage bags.

BUILD THE T AIL SURF ACES

Build the stabilizer and elevators

❏ 1. Place the stab plan over your building board (you

may cut it from the fuse plan).If you wish to protect the
plan from glue (though this is not absolutely necessary

because the ribs rest on jig tabs and do not contact the
building board), cover the plan with film such as wax
paper or Great Planes Plan Protector.

❏ 2. Make a left (as shown in the photo), then a

right stab TE by gluing a die-cut 1/8" balsa stab TE
doubler to the front of a die-cut 1/8" balsa stab TE

so the notches align.

❏ 3. Fit both sets of die-cut 3/32" balsa stab ribs S2

through S5 to the left and right stab TE’ s , then fit both
die-cut 1/8" balsa elevator LE spars to the stab
halves.Position the assemblies over the plan.

❏ 4. Cut rib jigs for ribs 2 through 5 on the left stab

half from two 1/4" x 1/4" x 30" balsa sticks. The rib

jigs should be the same length as the jig tab on each
rib.Hold the ribs down using the rib jigs pinned to the
plan on both sides of each rib.

❏ 5. After all the ribs are in position, use a small

builder’s square to align the stab TE and the elevator
LE spar over their locations on the plan by sliding the
ribs forward or aft between the rib jigs.

❏ 6. Cut rib jigs from the 1/4" x 1/4" stick leftover

from the previous step and a second 1/4" x 1/4" x 30"
balsa stick, then pin the right side of the stab to the
plan the same way.

❏ 7. Glue together both die-cut 1/8" balsa stab

TE joiners.

Refer to this photo for the following three steps.

❏ 8. Make certain the jig tabs of all the ribs are

contacting the building board, that the stab TE’s are
all the way down in the notches of the ribs and that
the ribs are accurately aligned over their locations on
the plan. Glue the stab TE joiner to both stab TE’s.

❏ 9. Join both sets of die-cut 3/32" balsa ribs S6 and

S1 to the assembly using rib jigs cut from another 1/4"

x 1/4" x 30" balsa stick to hold them in place.

❏ 10. Glue all the r ibs to the TE and both elevator

LE spars to the ribs. Join the die-cut 1/8" plywood

stab brace to the assembly and glue it into position.

- 10 -

Refer to this photo for the following four steps.

❏ 11. Use a bar sander and 80-grit sandpaper to

bevel the LE of the ribs to match the aft sweeping
angle of the LE.

❏ 12. Bevel the ends of both 3/8" x 1/2" x 18" stab

LE’s where they meet in the center of the stab, then

cut them to the correct length (slightly oversize is
okay so the ends extend past ribs S6) and glue
them, centered height-wise, to the front of the ribs.

❏ 13. Sheet the center of the stab between both S1

ribs using a 3/32" x 4" x 30" balsa sheet. Note that the
sheeting is between the ribs, not on top of the ribs.
This has the same reinforcing effect as wrapping the
center section with glass cloth and epoxy, but is
easier, neater and faster!

❏ 14. Use a razor plane followed by sanding to trim

the top of the LE and TE even with and at the same
angle as the top of the ribs.

❏ 15. From the 3/32" sheet you used for the center

section and three more 3/32" x 4" x 30" balsa sheets,
cut the eight pieces that make up the four stab skins
as shown in the sketch.Note that one sheet of balsa
yields two smaller “aft parts” and one “front part.”
Save the leftover balsa sheeting for use later.

Note:The sketch is used to show the positioning and
shape of the parts only.Determine the actual sizes of
the parts by positioning the sheets over the stab and
making marks with a ballpoint pen. Make the par ts
oversize to allow for trimming and positioning.

❏ 16. Refer to the Hot Tip that follows, then glue the

sheets together to make four stab skins.

C. Turn the sheets over and apply glue to the
joining edges. Slow dr ying glue like Great Planes
Pro Aliphatic resin is recommended because this
provides working time for alignment, because the
excess can easily be wiped away and because it
sands well.You may use CA if you prefer.

B.Tightly tape one side of the pieces together with
masking tape.

HOW TO GLUE BALSA SHEETING TOGETHER

TO MAKE SKINS

A. Use a straightedge to true the joining edges of

the balsa sheets.

Top Flite selects balsa that is intended for sheeting,
though occasionally a few of these sheets may
have a small nick or split near the ends. If your kit
contains a few of these sheets, arrange them and
glue them together so the defects will not interfere
with the final shape of the skin.

-11-

❏ 17. Glue two stab skins to the top of the stab using

aliphatic resin or medium or thick CA. Our preferred
method is to apply aliphatic resin to the tops of the
ribs and the TE, then position the skin and hold it
down with weights and T-pins where necessary.
Before the glue dries, use thin or medium CA to glue
the front of the skin to the LE.

❏ 18. Use the template on the plan to make the

elevator skins from two 3/32" x 4" x 24" balsa sheets.
Hint: Use 3M 75 Repositionable Spray Adhesive to

stick the paper template to the balsa sheet, then cut
it out. If you have a band saw or a scroll saw, stack
all four sheets together with 3M 75 and cut them out
all at once.

❏ 19. Make the bevel gauge from the die-cut 1/8"

plywood pieces, then drill a hole at the punch mark
just large enough to fit the tip of a ballpoint pen. Use
the bevel gauge to mark the bevel lines on the inside
of the TE of all f our elev ator skins with a ball-point pen.

❏ 20. Using the line as a guide, bevel the elevator

skins down to approximately 1/32" at the trailing edge .

The P-47 had many attributes that led to its
reputation. One of the most important was its
durability in combat. Oftentimes the P-47 would
bring pilots home with missing cylinders, blown-off
wing tips and large portions of tail surfaces missing.
The P-47’s internal systems were also durable and
well protected.

G. After the glue dries, sand the skins flat and
even.Little sanding should be required.

Note: Some modelers tend to sand the sheeting
too much after it is applied to the structure,
making thin spots where fingers can easily go
through. By following the procedure above
(specifically, by aligning the skins as shown in
step E), little sanding should be required. Most of
the sanding that isrequired should be done
before the sheeting is glued in place. The only
sanding that should be required after the skin is
glued to the structure is final sanding with 320- or
400-grit sandpaper.

F. Place a weight on top of the skin to hold it flat
while the glue dries.

E. Press the edges down so they are even.

D. Cover your workbench with wax paper and lay

the skin on it. Use a credit card or something
similar as a squeegee to simultaneously press the
sheets flat as you wipe the glue from the seam.

-12-

❏ 21. If you haven’t done so already, trim the top

edge of the elevator LE spars e v en with the top of the
ribs. Glue the top elevator skins to the top of the
elevators .As shown on the cross section on the plan,
the beveled edges are on the inside.

❏ 22. Remove the stab and elevators from your

building board. Save the jig sticks for use on the fin.

❏ 23. Use a hobby knife to trim the jig tabs from the

bottom of the ribs, finishing with a bar sander and
80-grit sandpaper so the ribs appear as though the
jig tabs were never there. While you’re at it, trim the
bottom of the LE so it matches the ribs.

❏ 24. Cut eighteen 1-1/2" long hinge blocks from a

1/4" x 1/2" x 30" balsa stick.Glue the hinge blocks to
the stab TE and elevator LE spar where shown on
the plan. NOTE:The hinge block sizes shown on the

plan are intended to accommodate Robart large
hinge points. If you plan to use flat hinges, the hinge
blocks may need to be longer.

❏ 25. If necessary, trim the bottom of the ele vator LE

spar even with the bottom of the ribs. Glue the
bottom elevator skins to the elevators.Be certain the
TE of the top and bottom skins align and are
thoroughly bonded together.

❏ 26. Use leftover 3/32" sheeting to sheet the

bottom of the stab between ribs S1 just the same as
you did on the top of the stab.

❏ 27. Build the six stab cradles (three for each side

of the stab) from the die-cut 1/8" plywood pieces
as shown.

❏ 28. With the stab plan positioned over your flat

building board, place the stab cradles over their
respective locations on the plan. Note that the front
of the cradles is the end with the embossed lettering.
Hint: Hold the cradles to the plan with 3M 75
Repositionable Spray Adhesive.

❏ 29. Place the stab on the cradles aligned with the

plan. Glue the bottom skins into position. A slow
drying glue such as aliphatic resin is preferred.Place
weights on top of the stab to hold the skins down.

❏ 30. After the glue from the previous step has

dried, remove the stab from the cradles. Use a bar
sander with 80-grit sandpaper to remove excessive
glue. Sand the ends of the stab and elevator
sheeting even with the tips.

❏ 31. Cut both elevators from the stab.Sand the LE

of the elevators and the TE of the stab to remove the
protruding portions of the r ibs.

❏ 32.From the 3/8" x 1-1/4" x 36" balsa stic k, cut two

elevator LE’s to the length shown on the plan. Use
a couple drops of thick or medium CA to temporarily
tack glue the elevator LE’s to the stab.

❏ 33. Use a razor plane followed by a bar sander to

trim the elevator LE’s to match the top and bottom of
the stab. Permanently glue the elevators to the
elevator LE’s.Be certain the tip of the elevators align
with the tip of the stab.

❏ 34. Cut the stab and elevator tips from the plan and

use them as patterns to make both stab and elevator
tips from two 7/8" x 2-1/4" x 5-5/8" balsa blocks.

-13-

❏ 35. Glue the stab and elevator tips to the stab and

elevator. Don’t accidentally glue the stab tip to the
elevator LE.

❏ 36. Use a razor plane and a sanding block to

shape and round the tips. Refer to the cross section
on the plans frequently during this process.

❏ 37. The same way you did for the stab and

elevator tips, make the elevator root blocks from
two 1" x 2-1/2" x 3/4" balsa blocks and glue them to
the root of both elevators.

❏ 38. Break both elevators free from the stab .Round

the elevator root blocks by sanding.

That was fun, wasn’t it! Clean off your workbench,
set the stab aside (but not too far away, so your
friends can give you compliments when they see it)
and move on to the fin and rudder.

Build the fin and rudder

❏ 1. Place the fin and rudder plan over your building

board. You may cut them from the fuse plan if
you prefer.

❏ 2. Glue together both die-cut 1/8" balsa fin TE’s

with the notches in alignment.

❏ 3. Fit the die-cut 3/32" balsa fin ribs V1 through

V4 on the fin TE.Hold the ribs over the plan using the

1/4" x 1/4" jig sticks left over from building the stab.
Add rib V5 to the assembly and hold it in place with
jig sticks.

❏ 4. Use a small builder’s square to align the fin TE

over the plan. Make sure the jig tabs of the ribs are
contacting the plan, then glue the ribs to the TE.

Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

❏ 5. Bevel the front of the ribs to match the angle of

the LE. Cut the 3/8" x 1/2" x 18" balsa fin LE to the

length shown on the plan, then glue it into position on
the front of the ribs.

❏ 6. Join the die-cut 1/8" balsa rudder LE spar to the

assembly and glue it into position. Fit the die-cut 3/32"
balsa fin rib R1 to the rudder LE spar.Make sure the tip
of R1 is in horizontal alignment with the tips of the other
ribs, then glue R1 to the rudder LE spar.

❏ 7. Bevel the upward facing edge of the fin LE to

match the ribs. Sand the upward facing surfaces of
all the parts, blending them together.

❏ 8. Make the fin skins for both sides of the fin from

two 3/32" x 4" x 30" balsa sheets.Be certain the skins
extend below rib V1 by at least 5/8" for trimming later
to fit the stab.

❏ 9. Use the rudder skin template on the plan to

make two rudder skins from two 3/32" x 3" x 24"
balsa sheets.

❏ 10.Glue one of the fin skins to the right side of the fin.

❏ 11.The same as you did for the elevator skins, use

the bevel gauge to mark the bevel line on the inside
of the rudder skins. Sand the bevel, then glue the
right rudder skin into position.

❏ 12. Remove the fin and rudder assembly from the

plan.Use a hobby knif e to trim the jig tabs from the left
side of the fin, finishing with a bar sander and 80-grit
sandpaper.Trim the left side of the LE so it matches
the ribs.

-14-

❏ 13. Cut eight 1-1/2" long hinge blocks from a 1/4"

x 1/2" x 30" balsa stick. Glue the hinge blocks to the
fin TE and rudder LE spar where shown on the plan.
If you plan to use flat hinges, you may wish to make
the hinge blocks longer.

❏ 14. If necessary, trim the left side of the rudder LE

spar so it is even with the left side of the ribs.

❏ 15. Build the two fin jigs, similar to the stab jigs,

from the die-cut 1/8" plywood parts.

❏ 16. Position the fin on top of the jigs and align

them with ribs 1 and 4. Glue the left fin and rudder
skins into position.

❏ 17. After the glue from the previous step has

dried, remove the fin from the jigs.Use a bar sander
with 80-grit sandpaper to roughly sand the leading
edge to remove e xcessive glue .Sand the ends of the
sheeting even with the tip of the fin and rudder.

❏ 18. Cut the rudder from the fin. Sand the LE of the

rudder and the TE of the fin to remove the remaining
unwanted portions of the ribs.

❏ 19. Cut the rudder LE to the length shown on the

plan from the 3/8" x 1-1/2" x 18" balsa stick.Use thick
or medium CA to securely, but temporarily, tack glue
the rudder LE to the fin.

❏ 20. Use a razor plane followed by a bar sander to

trim the rudder LE to match the fin. Glue the rudder
to the rudder LE. Be certain the tip of the rudder
aligns with the tip of the fin.

❏ 21. Cut the fin tip and the rudder tip from the 3/4"

x 1-1/2" x 5" balsa block and glue them to the fin and
rudder. Be certain you don’t accidentally glue the fin
tip to the rudder LE.Hint: Use the drawings of the fin
and rudder tip as patterns to shape them.

❏ 22. Use a razor plane and a sanding block to

shape and round the tips. Refer to the cross section
on the plans frequently during this process.

❏ 23. Glue the 1-3/8" x 1-3/4" x 4-1/2" balsa rudder

base block to the bottom of the r udder. Shape the

bottom of the block to match the rudder. Break the
rudder free from the fin.

Hinge the elevators and rudder

❏ 1. Refer to the Hot Tip that follows, then mark the

locations of the hinges on the elevators and stab.

A. Inser t T-pins through the center of the elevator
LE near both ends. Position a straightedge along
the T-pins and mark a centerline with a fine point
ballpoint pen.

B. Do the same for the other elevator and the TE
of the stab.

C. Mark the locations of the hinges along the
centerlines you drew.

HOW TO ACCURATELY MARK THE

CENTERLINES OF THE CONTROL

SURFACES FOR HINGING.

The P-47 was manufactured by Republic Aircraft
Corporation, which at one time was named
Seversky Aircraft Corporation, started by two
fellow Russians, Alexander De Seversky and
Alexander Kartveli.For a great history of the early
development of the P-47, see:

home.att.net/-Historyzone/Seversky-Repub lic.html.

-15-

❏ 2. Use a 3/16" brass tube shar pened on the end

or a 3/16" drill bit to drill holes for your hinges (not
supplied) at the marks you made. We prefer Robart
Super Hinge Points.

❏ 3. Test fit the elevators to the stab with the hinges.

Adjust or relocate hinge slots or holes that don’t align.

❏ 4. Bevel the LE of the elevators for control throw. A

razor plane makes this job fast and easy and yields a
clean, sharp bevel.Use the centerline on the elevators
as a guide to keep the bevel centered. Be certain you
can achieve 3/4" of up and 3/4" of down throw as
measured at the widest part of the elevators.

❏ 5. Hinge the rudder and fin, then bevel the LE of the

rudder to achieve 1-3/4" of right and 1-3/4" of left control
throw as measured at the widest part of the rudder.

BUILD THE FUSELAGE

Preparation

Note: The die-cut 1/8" plywood formers are

embossed only with the abbreviated portion of their
name. For example, former F-2B is embossed 2B.
All the formers are die-cut 1/8" plywood unless
otherwise noted.

❏ 1. Glue together a former F-1BR and F-1BL.Sand

them flat and even. Make another assembly the
same way. Glue together both assemblies to make
what will now be called F-1B.

❏ 2. Glue together former bottoms F-2BR and F-2BL

to make up the bottom half of former F-2. From now

on this assembly will be referred to as F-2B. Sand
F-2B flat and even.

❏ 3. Glue together both former tops F-1.
❏ 4. Drill 3/16" holes through the punch marks in all

the formers to accommodate the outer pushrod
guide tubes.As you drill the holes, push down on the
formers to keep the wood from splitting when the drill
bit goes through.

Build the fuse top

❏

1. Cut the top view of the fuselage plan from the
rest of the plan, then place it over your building
board. Cover the top view of the fuse plan with wax
paper or Great Planes Plan Protector.

❏ 2. Bevel one end of two 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" grooved

balsa main stringers so you can splice them together

In some of the following photos you will see
additional holes in a few of the formers. We’ve
simply estimated the locations and drilled holes
for routing the air lines and various wiring for the
radio system (servo cords, battery cords, etc.)
that will run through the fuse. If you can partially
visualize your radio installation and wire routing at
this time, it will be easier to drill these holes now.

The Thunderbolt was a massiv e airplane, the biggest
and heaviest single engine, single-placed fighter
ever built. The engine, the Pratt & Whitney 18
cylinder twin-row radial, developed 2,000 H.P. and
was the most powerful engine at the time.However,
in turn, it needed a highly efficient duct system for its
super-charger. The designer, Alexander Kartveli
designed the duct system first, then built the
fuselage around it.

-16-

over the plan. An accurate way to do this is to place
one on top of the other with the grooves opposed,
then use a razor saw and a miter box (or a table belt
sander) to make the bevel.

❏ 3.Pin the main stringers over the plan, gluing the two

pieces together at the splice.The aft end of the stringer
should be even with the plan, but the front of the
stringer may extend beyond the plan by approximately
1/4" or so.

❏ 4. Splice and pin the main stringers over the other

side of the plan the same way.

❏ 5. Do not use any glue in this step. Fit the tank

roof (TR) followed by the right upper crutch (RUC)

and left upper crutch (LUC) into former F-1. Don’t
forget to make sure the embossed part names on the
formers are facing forward. Add former F-2 to the
crutches. Position the assembly over its location on
the plan between the main stringers. Note: The left
crutch is slightly longer than the right crutch to set
the right thrust angle.

❏ 6.Use medium CA to glue TR, RUC and LUC to F-1

making certain F-1 is perpendicular to the building
board. Do not glue TR to the upper crutches forward
of F-1.Glue F-1 and F-2 to the side stringers and glue
F-2 to the crutches.

❏ 7. Join former F-3 to the upper crutches and main

stringers, followed by formers 4 through 9, gluing
them into position as you proceed. Use a small
builder’s square to hold the formers vertical as you
glue them into position. Twisted formers will be
straightened when the stringers are added later.

❏ 8. Edge glue both halves of the die-cut 1/8" balsa

cockpit deck together, then glue it to formers F-3
and F-5.

❏ 9. Test fit both die-cut 1/8" plywood stab saddles

to F-9 and the main stringers as shown in the sketch.
Sand a slight bevel on the bottom edge of the
saddles to match the angle at which they contact the
main stringers. Use 30-minute epoxy to thoroughly
glue the stab saddles into position.

❏ 10. Glue the four 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" balsa main sub

stringers into the groove in the main stringer on both

sides of the fuselage. Make cer tain none of the T-pins
already inserted into the main stringer interfere with
allowing the sub stringers to fit all the way into
the grooves.

Note: As you proceed, be cer tain the embossed
names of the formers are facing the front of
the fuselage.

-17-

❏ B11. Glue formers IP, CB and 5C to the cockpit

deck and former tops 6C and 7C to formers 6 & 7.

❏ R12. Glue formers IP, CBX and 5X to the cockpit

deck and former tops 6X and 7X to formers 6 & 7.

❏ 13. Fit eleven 1/4" x 1/4" x 30" balsa stringers into

the notches in the formers (if you’re building the
bubble canopy version, do not fit the top, middle
stringer into formers CB through 9 until instructed to
do so).Some of the stringers are not long enough and
will have to be spliced together. Note that the middle
stringer extends past former 9 by approximately 2".

❏ 14. Do not glue the top two stringers to former 9,

but glue the rest of the stringers to the formers. As
you glue the stringers into the notches, use a
builder’s square to align the tops of the formers with
the plan, thereby removing twists as you proceed.

❏ 15.Glue leftover 3/32" balsa to both sides of f ormer

5 between the bottom two stringers to support the
sheeting where it will be spliced together.

❏ 16. Lightly sand all joints, blending the stringers to

the formers; and bevel the edges of the cockpit deck
to accommodate the sheeting.

Sheet the fuse top

❏

1. Of the five 3/32" x 4" x 36" balsa sheets
supplied with this kit, select the hardest sheet, label
it as “shear webs,” and set it aside for use when
building the wing.

❏ 2. Refer to the following photo. Trim a 3/32" x 4" x

36" balsa sheet to fit the right side of the fuse top from
the center of former 5 aft (you’ll have to glue a piece
of leftover 3/32" sheeting to the top of the sheet near
the front so it will extend to the second stringer).

❏ 3. Once you’ve trimmed the sheet to fit the right

side, use it as a pattern to make another sheet from

Various prototypes and incar nations of the P-47
began to materialize at Republic Aircraft around

1940. One of the first designs recognizable as a
P-47 was the XP-44

Rocket

. One of the engine
performance features carried over from Seversky
was the gear-driven supercharger and later a
turbo-supercharger.

Now is the time to decide whether you are going
to build the razorback or the bubble canopy
version. Steps beginning with a “B” are for the
“bubble canopy” and steps beginning with an “R”
are for the razorback. Steps with neither “B” nor
“R” apply to both versions.

-18-

an additional 3/32" x 4" x 36" balsa sheet for the left
side.Glue the first sheet to the right side of the fuse.
Do not glue the sheeting to the stab saddle. If
necessary, wet the sheeting with water or window
cleaner to help it bend around the formers. Glue the
other sheet to the left side of the fuse.

❏ 4. Trim the sheeting even with the stab saddles.

Use caution not to trim the ply stab saddles.
Otherwise, you may change the incidence of the stab
which will greatly affect the flying characteristics.

Before we can sheet the rest of the fuse, we have to
glue the stab and fin into position.

❏ 5. Fit the stab into the stab saddle. Tr im the fuse

sheeting and the stringers as necessary until the TE
of the stab aligns with the dotted line on the plan
depicting the TE.Place a weight on top of the stab to
temporarily hold it down.

❏ 6.With the stab in position, measure the distance

from the centerline on the TE of both ends of the stab
down to your workbench. If necessary, lightly trim
the stab saddles until you can get the stab level. If
the stab is not exactly level, but it’s close, sometimes
all it takes is shifting the weight slightly to even it up.
If you do have to sand the saddle to level the stab,

use caution not to change the incidence angle of
the stab.

❏ 7. Stick a T-pin into the center fuse stringer above

former 1. Tie a small loop in one end of a 60" piece
of string and slip it over the T-pin. Fold a piece of
masking tape over the string near the other end and
draw an arrow on it.Sliding the tape along the string,
align the arrow with one end of the stab as shown in
the photo.Swing the string over to the same position
on the other side of the stab.Shift the stab and slide
the tape along the string until the arrow aligns with
both sides of the stab. The stab must remain
centered on the fuse during this process.

❏ 8. Mark the stab where it aligns with the fuse so it

can be realigned after you take it off.

❏ 9. Remove the stab.Trim the sheeting on the LE of

the fin until you can get it to fit into the notch in former

9. Use a builder’s square to make sure the fin TE will
be perpendicular to the building board in both axes.

❏ 10. Remove the fin. Mix up a batch of 30-minute

epoxy. For additional strength, add Great Planes
Milled Fiberglass (GMR6165). Apply a small fillet of
epoxy to strengthen the bond between the insides of
the stab saddles and the main stringers and former 9.
Apply epoxy to the stab saddles and fuse sheeting
and to the bottom of the stab where it contacts the
saddles.P osition the stab and place w eights on top of
it to hold it down.Confirm stab alignment by repeating
steps 5 and 6. Wipe away excess epoxy and do not
disturb the model until the epoxy fully cures.

❏ 11. After the epoxy from the previous step has

fully cured, fit the fin to the stab by trimming the
bottom of the sheeting until it fits the stab and can be
positioned as described in step 9 (with the TE
vertical and contacting the stab saddles). The TE of
the fin must be even with the TE of the stab.

❏ 12. Mix up another batch of 30-minute epoxy and

securely glue the fin to the top of the stab and fuse.
Be certain the fin sheeting is thoroughly bonded to
the stab, but don’t b uild up a large fillet.Now glue the
top two stringers to former 9.

Now that the stab and fin are glued to the fuse, we
can finish sheeting the fuse.

-19-

❏ 13. Trim a 1/2" x 30" strip from a 3/32" x 4" x 30"

balsa sheet. Glue the 1/2" x 30" str ip to the edge of
another 3/32" x 4" x 30" balsa sheet. Sheet the
forward side of the fuse as shown using the 3/32" x
4-1/2" x 30" sheet.

❏ 14. Trim a 1/2" strip from another 3/32" x 4" x 30"

balsa sheet and glue it to a 3/32" x 4" x 30" sheet
(you should now have two 3/32" x 3-1/2" x 30" balsa
sheets leftover, which will be used to sheet the top of
the fuse aft of the cockpit). Sheet the left side of the
fuse with the 4-1/2" sheet the same way.

❏ 15. Use a 3/32" x 4" x 30" balsa sheet to finish

sheeting the forward deck of the fuse top.

Don’t forget,step numbers that are preceded with
a “B” are for the bubble canopy version only.

❏ B16.Glue a 1/4" x 1/4" x 30" balsa stringer into the

notches in the tops of the turtledeck.

❏ B17. Sheet both sides of the turtle deck from the

cockpit back (CB) to former 9 using the two 3/32" x
3-1/2" x 30" balsa sheets leftover from step 13 and
step 14.

Perform steps R18 through R21 only if building
the razorback version.

❏ R18. Glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood razor spine to

the top of CBX, 5X and 6X. Note that the aft edge of
the razor spine ends in the middle of 6X.

❏ R19.Trim the tapered 18" balsa fuselage spine to

fit between the fin and the razor spine, then glue it
into position. Bevel the sides of the razor spine so it

blends with the curvature of the formers (refer to the
cross section on the plan).

❏ R20. Sheet both sides of the turtle deck from the

cockpit back (CBX) to former 9 using the two 3/32" x
3-1/2" x 30" balsa sheets leftover from step 13 and
step 14 and additional leftover 3/32" balsa. If the
sheeting is difficult to bend, wet it with water or
window cleaner.

❏ R21. Position the 5/8" x 1-3/8" x 10-1/2" aft deck

top block on the razor spine and trace its outline.

Carve the top block to the approximate shape, then
glue it into position. Shape the block to match the
rest of the turtle deck, but don’t final shape until
instructed to do so.

❏ 22. Use the stab/fin fillet pattern on the plan to

make two stab/fin fillets from leftover 3/32" balsa,
then test fit and glue them into position.

-20-