Top Flite A0410 INSTRUCTION BOOK

USA

MADE IN

™

WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does

not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite‘s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves
the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user
accepts all resulting liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in

new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

© 2010 Hobbico®, Inc.

Top Flite Models, Champaign, Il

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

Phone: [phone], Ext. 5 [e-mail]

CRSGP05 V1.1

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

ENGINE SELECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

RADIO SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . 3

LANDING GEAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

SCALE COCKPIT INTERIOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

COMPETITION MINDED MODELERS . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

DOCUMENTATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

BUILDING SUPPLIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

TYPES OF WOOD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

METRIC CONVERSIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

INCH-TO-MILLIMETER WOOD CHART . . . . . . . . . . . 5

DIE-CUT PATTERNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

GET READY TO BUILD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

BUILD THE STABILIZER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

BUILD THE FIN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

BUILD THE ELEVATORS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

BUILD THE RUDDER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

BUILD THE WING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

BUILD THE WING CENTER SECTION. . . . . . . . 14

BUILD THE WING TIP PANELS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

JOIN THE WING PANELS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

SHEET THE WING PANELS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

SHEET THE BOTTOM CENTER SECTION . . . . 21

BUILD THE FUSELAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

BUILD THE UPPER FUSE SIDES . . . . . . . . . . . 22

SHEET THE FUSE TOP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

BUILD THE FUSE BOTTOM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

INSTALL THE FIREWALL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

SHEET THE BOTTOM OF THE FUSE . . . . . . . . 33

MOUNT THE WING ON THE FUSE . . . . . . . . . . 34

FINISH THE WING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

INSTALL THE OIL COOLERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

RETRACT INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

BUILD THE AILERONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

BUILD THE OUTBOARD FLAPS . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

BUILD THE INBOARD FLAPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

BUILD THE MIDDLE FLAPS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

INSTALL THE FLAP CONTROLS . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

FINISH THE FUSELAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

MOUNT THE STABILIZER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

FINISH THE FUSE AFT END . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

FIT THE RETRACTABLE TAILGEAR. . . . . . . . . . 47

INSTALL THE ENGINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

ASSEMBLE THE COWL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

FINISHING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

BALANCE THE MODEL LATERALLY . . . . . . . . . 50

SURFACE PREPARATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

COVERING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

PAINTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

APPLY DECALS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

FINAL HOOKUPS AND CHECKS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

INSTALL THE HINGES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

INSTALL THE HARDWARE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

INSTALL THE RETRACTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

ATTACH THE CANOPY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

COOLING NOTES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

NON-FUNCTIONAL LANDING GEAR DOORS . 53

SET THE CONTROL THROWS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

BALANCE YOUR MODEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

PREFLIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

CHARGE THE BATTERIES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

BALANCE THE PROPELLER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

GROUND CHECK THE MODEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

RANGE CHECK YOUR RADIO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS. . . . . . . . . . . 55

AMA SAFETY CODE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55

IMAA SAFETY CODE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55

FLYING. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56

FUEL MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS. . . . . . . . . . . . 56

TAKE OFF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56

FLIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57

LANDING. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57

3-VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Back Cover

PROTECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF & OTHERS

FOLLOW THIS IMPORTANT

SAFETY PRECAUTION

Your Giant F4U Corsair is not a toy, but a sophisticated
working model that functions very much like a full scale
airplane. Because of its realistic performance and size, if
you do not assemble and operate your Corsair correctly,
you could possibly injure yourself or spectators and
damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience totally

enjoyable, get assistance with assembly and your first
flights from an experienced, knowledgeable modeler.

You’ll learn faster and avoid risking your model before
you’re truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop has
information about flying clubs in your area whose
membership includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the Academy of Model Aeronautics
(AMA), which has more than 2,500 chartered clubs across
the country. We recommend you join the AMA which will
insure you at AMA club sites and events. AMA
Membership is required at chartered club fields where
qualified flight instructors are available.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone number
below.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

[phone]

Fax [phone]

or via the Internet at: modelaircraft.org

Your Top Flite Gold Edition Giant F4U Corsair is intended
for scale and general sport flying including mild
aerobatics such as loops, stall turns, rolls, etc. Its
structure is designed to withstand such stresses. If you
intend to use your Corsair for more abusive types of flying
such as racing or aggressive aerobatics it is your
responsibility to reinforce areas of the model that will be
subjected to the resulting unusually high stresses.

- 2 -

INTRODUCTION

PRECAUTIONS

RADIO SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS

Thank you for purchasing the Top Flite Gold Edition
Giant F4U Corsair. Since this is a scale model with lots of

detail, you’ll find it takes a little longer to complete than
the sport models you’ve built before. But since this is a
Top Flite Gold Edition kit, it is as easy to build as most
sport models. The Top Flite Giant Corsair uses the same
materials and standard construction techniques you’ve
already become accustomed to. You won’t have to learn
anything new to end up with a first class scale model!
Most of the trim schemes you’ll find of the full size Corsair
should be easy to duplicate with Top Flite MonoKote
The Top Flite Giant Corsair is an excellent Sportsman
Scale subject. Its large size and accurate scale outline
afford you the opportunity to go all out with as many extra
details as you like.

The Top Flite Corsair is an excellent sport scale model
that is equally “at home” with sport flying as it is in
competition. Because of its 86.5" wingspan, the Top Flite
Corsair is eligible for IMAA events. The IMAA
(International Miniature Aircraft Association) is an
organization that promotes non-competitive flying of giant
scale models. For more information contact:

IMAA

205 S. Hilldale Road

Salina, KS 67401

®

film.

1. You must build the plane according to the plan and
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing
so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few

cases the plan and instructions may differ slightly
from the photos. In those instances you should
assume the plan and written instructions are correct.

2. You must take time to build straight, true
and strong.

3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first class
condition, the correct sized engine and correct
components (fuel tanks, wheels, etc.) throughout your
building process.

4. You must properly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates properly on the ground and in
the air.

5. You must test the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and you
must make certain that the model has remained
structurally sound.

6. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, you
must fly the model only with the help of a competent,
experienced R/C pilot.

Remember: Take your time and follow instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.

The Top Flite Giant Corsair requires a minimum of 10
standard size servos. Due to the large scale of this
aircraft the Giant Corsair requires high torque servos to
control the split elevator (2 required), rudder [1
required), aileron (2 required) and flaps (2 required).
Standard servos may be used for the throttle, retract
valve and tail wheel steering.

On our prototypes we used Y-connectors to connect the
elevator servos, flap servos, rudder/tail wheel steering
and aileron servos.

LANDING GEAR

The Top Flite Giant Corsair is designed for Robart
main retracts #148 (ROBQ1655) and Robart tail wheel
retracts #160WC (ROBQ2230).

SCALE COCKPIT INTERIOR

Your Corsair just wouldn’t be complete without the Top
Flite Giant Corsair Cockpit Kit (TOPQ8407). It includes
the floor, side panels, full laser cut instrument panel and
seat. The Cockpit Kit easily installs after the fuselage is
completed. The servos and pushrods are located so the
cockpit can be installed without any modification.

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a
top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the
quality and flyability of your finished model depends on
how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to
the performance or safety of your completed model.

Please inspect all parts carefully before you start to
build! If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or
if you have any questions about building or flying this
model, please call us at [phone] or e-mail us at
[e-mail] and we’ll be glad
to help. If you are calling for replacement parts,
please look up the part numbers and the kit
identification number (stamped on the end of the
carton) and have them ready when you call.

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

ENGINE SELECTION

Recommended engine size:

60cc displacement Glow Engine

41 - 70cc displacement Gasoline Engine

We strongly recommend the use of a soft engine mount
of some type, to relieve the stresses on the airframe
and radio system and to make your aircraft quieter.
Great Planes, J-Tec, Soundmaster and others produce
soft mounts for large engines.

Note: If you are using a gasoline engine, you will need
to make sure that your fuel lines and tank are made
specifically to handle gasoline.

- 3 -

COMPETITION-MINDED MODELERS

If you plan to enter your Giant Corsair in scale competition
(it’s lots of fun and the runways are often paved), this kit
qualifies for Fun Scale and the Sportsman and Expert
classes in Sport Scale. Fun Scale and Sport Scale have
the same flight requirements where you must perform ten
maneuvers of which five are mandatory. If you have never
competed in a scale contest, you could start out in Fun
Scale. In Fun Scale, the only documentation you need for
static judging is any proof that a full size aircraft of this
type, in the paint/markings scheme on your model, did
exist. A single photo, kit box cover, even a painting is
sufficient proof! If you’re interested, contact the AMA for a
rule book which will tell you everything you need to know.
Look in the back of the AMA magazine Model Aviation
for a schedule of events.

The trim scheme of the Corsair on your kit box was
inspired by the full scale “Bayou Baby”. The decal set
included with the kit will allow you to quickly and easily
duplicate the markings. If you prefer a different trim
scheme Scale Model Research offers many
documentation packages as a guide.

DOCUMENTATION

Three view drawings and photo packs of full size F4U
Corsairs are available from:

Scale Model Research

3114 Yukon Ave, Costa Mesa, CA 92626

[phone]

Fax: [phone]

Other sources of scale documentation include Squadron
Signal Publication’s book number 1145 F4U in Action and
numbers 8255 and 8256 F4U Corsair.

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED

These are additional items you will need to complete your F4U
Corsair that are not included with your kit. Order numbers are
in parentheses (GPMQ4161). Our exclusive brand is listed
where possible: TOP is the Top Flite brand, GPM is the Great
Planes® brand and HCA is the Hobbico® brand.

❏ 6 to 7-channel radio with 10 servos (3 standard and

7 high torque)

❏ (2) 24" Servo Extensions for ailerons (HCAM2721)
❏ (4) “Y” Harness for elevator, rudder/tail wheel steering,

ailerons and flaps (HCAM2751)

❏ 4-1/2" Main Wheels (DUBQ0846)
❏ 1-3/4" Tail Wheel (DUBQ0954)
❏ 16 to 24 oz. Fuel Tank (Gas or Glow)
❏ 36" Gas or Glow Fuel Tubing depending on type of

fuel used

❏ 1/2" R/C Foam Rubber Padding (HCAQ1050)
❏ 1/4 to 1/5 Scale Pilot Figure
❏ (29) Heavy-Duty Hinge Points (ROBQ2510)
❏ Pull–Pull Cable System for steerable tailwheel

(DUBQ1418)

Throttle Linkage:

❏ Screw-Lock Pushrod Connector (GPMQ3870)
❏ Ball Link (GPMQ3840)

❏ Accu-Glide

❏ 2-56 x 12" Threaded Pushrod (GPMQ3750)
❏ Easy Fueler™ fuel fill valve for gas (GPMQ4161) or

glow (GPMQ4160)

❏ Switch and Charge Jack (GPMM1000)
❏ Fuelproof Paint (Top Flite® LustreKote® paint)

❏ Main Retracts (ROBQ1655)

❏ Tailwheel Retract (ROBQ2230)
❏ Air Control Kit with Giant air tank (ROBQ2305)
❏ (12) #6 x 1/2" Sheet metal screws for retract mounting
❏ Engine Mount (GPMG2000) (Isolation mount is

recommended for gas engine installation)

❏ Propellers (see the engine instructions)
❏ 4-5 rolls Top Flite Super MonoKote Covering

Optional:

❏ Replica Radial Engine (TOPQ7903)
❏ Cockpit Kit (TOPQ8407)

™

Nylon Pushrod (GPMQ3710)

BUILDING SUPPLIES

The following is a list of building supplies that are required.
We recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy glue.

❏ 4 oz. Thin CA (GPMR6003)
❏ 4 oz. Medium CA+ (GPMR6009)
❏ 2 oz. Thick CA- (GPMR6015)
❏ CA Accelerator (GPMR6035)
❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ 6-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ 30-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ 4 oz. Pro Wood Glue (TITR2010)
❏ Canopy Glue (PAAR3300)
❏ Milled Fiberglass (GPMR6165)
❏ Lightweight Hobby Filler (Balsa Color, HCAR3401)
❏ Auto Body Filler (Bondo® or similar)
❏ Isopropyl Alcohol
❏ 3M #75 Spray Adhesive (MMMR1900)
❏ Bright Colored Chalk (for fitting sheeting)

Tools

❏ Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
❏ Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
❏ Hobby Saw
❏ Hobby Knife (RMXR6907)
❏ #11 Blades (RMXR6930)
❏ Razor Plane (MASR1510)
❏ Pliers (Common and Needle Nose)
❏ Screwdrivers (Phillips and Flat tip)

- 4 -

❏ T-pins (HCAR5150)

❏ Clothes Pins or Hobby Clamps
❏ 60" Retractable Tape Measure (HCAR0478)
❏ Straightedge with Scale (HCAR0475)
❏ Masking Tape (GPMR1010)
❏ Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)*

❏ Easy-Touch

❏ Plan Protector (GPMR6167)
❏ Tack Cloth (TESR1654)
❏ 1/4-20 Tap (GPMR8105) and Tap Wrench

(GPMR8120)

❏ Builders Triangle Set (HCAR0480)
❏ .050 Long Handle Ball Driver (GPMR8000)
❏ Hand or Electric Drill
❏ Drill Bits:

1/16" 1/8" 3/8"
5/64" 9/64" 13/64"
3/32" 5/32" 1/4"
7/64" 3/16" 5/16"

Optional Supplies and Tools

❏ CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
❏ Epoxy Brushes (GPMR8060)
❏ Epoxy Mixing Sticks (GPMR8055)
❏ Hot Sock™ (TOPR2175)
❏ Single Edge Razor Blades (HCAR0312)
❏ Curved Tip Canopy Scissors (HCAR0667)
❏ Pin Vise with drill bits (HCAR0696)
❏ Dremel® #178 High Speed Cutter (to countersink

holes for flat head screws)

❏ Dremel Drum Sander

™

Bar Sander (or similar)

EASY-TOUCH™ BAR SANDER

*A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a necessity

for building a well finished model. Great Planes makes a
complete range of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders (patented)

and replaceable Easy-Touch Adhesive-backed
Sandpaper. While building the Giant F4U Corsair we
used two 5-1/2" Bar Sanders and two 11" Bar Sanders
equipped with 80-grit and 150-grit Adhesive-backed
Sandpaper. Here’s the complete list of Easy-Touch Bar
Sanders and Adhesive Backed Sandpaper.

5-1/2" Bar Sander (GPMR6169)
11" Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172)
33" Bar Sander (GPMR6174)
44" Bar Sander (GPMR6176)
11" Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190)

12' rolls of Adhesive-backed sandpaper:

80-grit (GPMR6180)
150-grit (GPMR6183)
180-grit (GPMR6184)
220-grit (GPMR6185)

Assortment pack of 5-1/2" strips (GPMR6189)

We also use 320-grit (MMMR1204) and 400-grit
(MMMR1202) wet-or-dry sandpaper for finish sanding.

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

There are two types of screws used in this kit.

•

Sheet metal screws are designated by a number

and a length.

For example #6 x 3/4" [19.1mm]

Machine screws are designated by a number,

threads per inch and a length.

For example 4-40 x 3/4" [19.1mm]

• When you see the term test fit in the instructions, it

means that you should first position the part on the
assembly without using any glue, then slightly modify
or custom fit the part as necessary for the best fit.

• Whenever the term glue is used you should rely upon

your experience to decide what type of glue to use.
When a specific type of adhesive works best for that
step we will tell you what type of glue to use.

• Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use either

30-minute epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When 30-minute
epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that you
use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.

• Occasionally we refer to the top or bottom of the model

or up or down. To avoid confusion, the top or bottom of
the model is as it would be when the airplane is right
side up and will be referred to as the top even if the
model is upside down during that step, i.e. the top main
spar is always the top main spar even if the wing is
upside down when you are working on it. Similarly,
move the former up means move the former toward the
top of the fuselage even if the fuselage is upside down
when you are working on it.

• When you get to each step, read that step completely

through to the end before you begin. Frequently there
is important information or a note at the end of the step
that you need to know before you start.

• Photos and sketches are placed ahead of the step

they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in

following steps to get another view of the same parts.

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

Deg = degrees Elev = elevator
Fuse = fuselage “ = inches
LE = leading edge Ply = plywood
Stab = stabilizer TE = trailing edge
LG = landing gear mm = millimeters

TYPES OF WOOD

- 5 -

METRIC CONVERSION

1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor)

1/64" = .4mm
1/32" = .8mm
1/16" = 1.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm
1/8" = 3.2mm
5/32" = 4mm
3/16" = 4.8mm
1/4" = 6.4mm
3/8" = 9.5mm
1/2" = 12.7mm
5/8" = 15.9mm

1" = 25.4mm
2" = 50.8mm
3" = 76.2mm
6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm
15" = 381mm
18" = 457.2mm
21" = 533.4mm
24" = 609.6mm
30" = 762mm
36" = 914.4mm

3/4" = 19mm

INCH-TO-MILLIMETER WOOD

Sheet Size Sheet Size
in inches in millimeters

1/64" x 2" x 24" = .4mm x 50.8mm x 609.6mm
3/32" x 3" x 18" = 2.4mm x 76.2mm x 457.2mm
3/32" x 3" x 24" = 2.4mm x 76.2mm x 609.6mm
3/32" x 3" x 30" = 2.4mm x 76.2mm x 762.0mm
3/32" x 3" x 36" = 2.4mm x 76.2mm x 914.4mm
1/8" x 3" x 24" = 3.2mm x 76.2mm x 609.6mm
1/8" x 3" x 30" = 3.2mm x 76.2mm x 762.0mm
1/8" x 3" x 36" = 3.2mm x 76.2mm x 914.4mm
1/4" x 1" x 24" = 6.4mm x 25.4mm x 609.6mm

Stick Size Stick Size

in inches in millimeters

1/8" x 1/4" x 36" = 3.2mm x 6.4mm x 914.4mm
1/8" x 9/32" x 30" = 3.2mm x 7.1mm x 762.0mm
1/8" x 1/2" x 30" = 3.2mm x 12.7mm x 762.0mm
1/8" x 1" x 30" = 3.2mm x 25.4mm x 762.0mm
1/4" x 3/8" x 18" = 6.4mm x 9.5mm x 457.2mm
1/4" x 1/4" x 30" = 6.4mm x 6.4mm x 762.0mm
1/4" x 1/4" x 36" = 6.4mm x 6.4mm x 914.4mm
3/8" x 1/2" x 30" = 9.5mm x 12.7mm x 762.0mm
3/8" x 3/4" x 8" = 9.5mm x 19.0mm x 203.2mm
3/8" x 1-1/4" x 4" = 9.5mm x 31.8mm x 101.6mm
1/2" x 1/2" x 30" = 12.7mm x 12.7mm x 762.0mm
1/2" x 7/8" x 24" = 12.7mm x 22.2mm x 609.6mm

(Continued on page 8)

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

- 6 -

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

- 7 -

(Continued from page 5.)

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES

1/2" x 15/16" x 18" = 12.7mm x 23.8mm x 457.2mm
1/2" x 1" x 3" = 12.7mm x 25.4mm x 76.2mm
1/2" x 1-1/4" x 30" = 12.7mm x 31.8mm x 762.0mm
5/8" x 3/4" x 6" = 15.9mm x 19.0mm x 152.4mm
11/16" x 11/16" x 18" = 17.5mm x 17.5mm x 457.2mm

Block Size Block Size

in inches in millimeters

5/16" x 3/4" x 7/8" = 7.9mm x 19.0mm x 22.2mm
3/8" x 2" x 6" = 9.5mm x 50.8mm x 152.4mm
1/2" x 3" x 12" = 12.7mm x 76.2mm x 304.8mm
9/16" x 2" x 12" = 14.3mm x 50.8mm x 304.8mm
9/16" x 2-1/2" x 24" = 14.3mm x 63.5mm x 609.6mm
3/4" x 3/4" x 1" = 19.0mm x 19.0mm x 25.4mm
7/8" x 1-1/4" x 9-1/2" = 22.2mm x 31.8mm x 241.3mm
1-1/4" x 1-1/2" x 8" = 31.8mm x 38.1mm x 200.0mm
1-1/4" x 2" x 2-3/4" = 31.8mm x 50.8mm x 69.9mm

GET READY TO BUILD

1. Unroll the plan sheets. Re-roll the plans inside out to
make them lie flat. Wax paper or Great Planes Plan
Protector placed over the plan will prevent glue from
sticking to the plan.

2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, determine
the name of each part by comparing it with the plans and
the parts list included with this kit. Using a pencil or
ballpoint pen, lightly write the part name or size on each
piece to avoid confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns
shown on pages 6 & 7 to identify the die-cut parts and
mark them before removing them from the sheet. Save all
leftovers. If any of the die-cut parts are difficult to remove,
do not force them! Instead, cut around the parts. Use your
Easy-Touch Bar Sander or sanding block to lightly sand
the edges to remove any die-cutting irregularities.

BUILD THE STABILIZER

❏ 1. Make a top and a bottom stabilizer skin using your
own method or the Hot Tip that follows to glue four 3/32" x
3" x 36" balsa sheets together to make two 6" x 36" sheets.

Top Flite selects balsa that is intended for sheeting,
though occasionally a few of these sheets may have a
small nick or split near the ends. If your kit contains a
few of these sheets, arrange them and glue them
together so the defects will not interfere with the final
shape of the skin.

HOW TO MAKE THE STAB SKINS

❏ B. Tightly tape the trued edges of the sheets together
with masking tape.

❏ C. Place a sheet of Plan Protector or wax paper on
your workbench. Turn the taped-together sheets over and
apply aliphatic resin (wood workers glue) to the seams.

3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them into
groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, stab
(stabilizer) and hardware. Zipper-top food storage bags
are handy to store parts in as you sort, identify and
separate them into subassemblies.

❏ A. Use a straightedge and a sharp #11 blade to true
one edge of both sheets. Do not cut all the way through
the first time but make several passes with your knife to
prevent the wood from splitting.

- 8 -

❏ D. Use a credit card or something similar to
simultaneously press the sheets flat as you squeegee
the excess glue from the seam. Wipe the glue off your
squeegee so it’s ready for the next time. Immediately
proceed to the next step.

❏ E. Inspect the seam and press the sheets together
where they do not align.

❏ F. Place weights on top of the sheets to hold them
down. We prefer plastic bags filled with lead shot, but
anything similar will do the job.

❏ 2. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the two die-cut 1/8"
[3.2mm] plywood stab centers (SC) between the two 1/8"
[3.2mm] balsa stab centers. To ensure that the lamination
stays flat, clamp it to a flat table until the epoxy cures.

❏ 3. Use epoxy to glue the two shaped 1/4" [6.4mm]
plywood leading edge doublers together.

❏ 6. From the remaining 1/2" x 7/8" balsa stick, cut and
glue the stab tips to the LE.

❏ 7. Cut the 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" balsa stab TE to length. Pin
and glue the TE in position at the aft edge of the stab center.

❏ G. After the glue dries, remove the weights and
masking tape. Sand the sheet flat with your bar sander
and 150-grit sandpaper. The idea is to sand the
sheeting before you glue it to the structure. This
eliminates low spots that can occur over the ribs from
excessive sanding.

This is the same procedure we recommend when it is
time to make the wing and fuse skins.

❏ 4. Place the stab plan on a flat building board (you may
wish to cut out the stab section) and cover the stab plan
with plan protector or wax paper. Pin the ply LE doubler
over the plan and glue the stab center to its aft edge.

❏ 5. From the 1/2" x 7/8" x 24" balsa sticks, cut and
glue stab LE’s to the LE doubler. Pin the LE’s to the
building board.

- 9 -

❏ 8. From the 1/8" x 1/2" x 30" balsa sticks, cut and glue
stab ribs between the LE and TE. Note: Sand a bevel on
the LE of the ribs to fit the angle of the stab LE.

❏ 9. Remove the stab from your building board. Inspect all
the glue joints and add CA to any joints that don’t appear
strong. Trim and sand the LE and stab tips to match the
shape on the stab plan. Use a bar sander to sand the
entire top and bottom surface until it is flat and even. Be
careful that you don’t sand any area of the stab too thin.

BUILD THE FIN

❏ 1. Make a left and right fin skin by cutting two 3/32" x
3" x 24" balsa sheets in half. Edge glue two sheets
together to make two 6" x 12" sheets.

❏ 2. Place the fin plan on a flat building board. Cover the
fin plan with plan protector or wax paper.

❏ 10. Place one of the stab skins on your building board.
Apply an even bead of medium or thick CA to one side of
the stab framework. Place the framework on the stab skin
and press it down firmly until the glue has set.

❏ 11. From the 1/2" x 1/2" x 30" balsa stick, cut and glue
1" [25.4mm ) long hinge blocks to the trailing edge of the
stab and stab skin at the locations shown on the stab
plan. Sand the hinge blocks flush with the TE.

❏ 12. Glue the second stab skin to the stab framework.

❏ 3. From a 1/2" x 7/8" x 24" balsa stick, cut a fin LE to

shape and pin it to the building board. From a 3/8" x 1/2" x
30" balsa stick, cut a fin TE and pin it to the building board.

❏ 4. From the 1/8" x 1/2" x 30" balsa sticks, cut and glue
fin ribs between the LE and TE.

❏ 7. Position the fin over the fin plan. Mark the location of
the top of formers F-8 and F-9 on both sides of the fin, .

❏ 8. Place one of the fin skins on your building board.
Apply an even bead of medium or thick CA to one side of
the fin framework. Place the framework on the fin skin,

aligning the end of the skin with the marks for the
formers. Press the skin down firmly until the glue has set.

❏ 9. Trim the fin skin flush with the LE, TE and the
balance tab opening at the top of the fin.

❏ 10. Glue the second fin skin to the framework aligning
the edge of the fin skin with the marks for the formers.

❏ 13. Trim the top and bottom stab skins flush with the LE,
TE and stab tips.

❏ 14. Draw a centerline around the stab LE and tips to
help you maintain symmetry during sanding. Rough shape
the LE and the tips to the approximate cross-section
shown on the plan.

❏ 5. From the remaining 1/2" x 1/2" balsa stick, cut and
glue 1" [25.4mm ) long hinge blocks to the trailing edge of
the fin at the locations shown on the stab plan.

❏ 6. Remove the fin from your building board. Inspect all
the glue joints and add CA to any joints that don’t appear
strong. Use a bar sander to sand the entire top and
bottom surface until it is flat and even. Be careful that you
don’t sand any area of the fin too thin.

- 10 -

❏ 11. Trim the second skin flush with the framework. Draw
a centerline around the fin to help you maintain symmetry
during sanding. Sand a radius on the LE to the
approximate cross-section shown on the plan.

BUILD THE ELEVATORS

❏ ❏ 1. Place the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa elevator
base over the plan. Mark the locations of the “ribs” on
both sides of the base.

❏ ❏ 2. From the grooved 11/16" x 11/16" x 18" balsa

control surface LE, cut a piece to the length shown on
the plan.

❏ ❏ 3. Glue the elevator base into the slot in the control
surface LE, perpendicular to the slot. Hint: An easy
method of accomplishing this is by inserting the aft edge
of the elevator base in a remaining piece of LE (do not
glue it to the elevator base) and holding both pieces of
LE against your building board while gluing.

❏ ❏ 6. From the 1/8" x 1" x 30" balsa stick, cut and glue
the balance tab base, centered on the LE of the elevator,
at the location shown on the plan.

❏ ❏ 9. Cut a balance tab root cap rib from the remaining
1/8" x 1" balsa stick. Glue it to the root end of the balance
tab. Glue a 1/8" x 9/32" rib to both sides of the balance tab
at the location shown on the plan.

❏ ❏ 4. Position the elevator with the LE hanging over the
edge of the table. Use the 1/8" x 9/32" x 30" balsa sticks
to make the elevator ribs gluing them to the elevator at
the marks you made previously.

❏ ❏ 5. Cut and glue the elevator ribs to the other side of
the elevator base.

❏ ❏ 7. Sand the end of the elevator base, LE and balance
tab base even. Cut the elevator tip from a 5/8" x 3/4" x 6"
balsa stick and glue it to the elevator outboard end, centered
on the end of the elevator base, LE and balance tab.

❏ ❏ 8. Sand the front of the balance tab base and
elevator tip even. Cut a 3" [76.2mm] long balance tab LE
from a 3/8" x 3/4" x 12" balsa stick. Glue the LE to the
front edge of the balance tab and elevator tip.

- 11 -

❏ ❏ 10. From the 3/8" x 1-1/4" x 6" balsa block, cut a
torque rod block to fit the opening in the elevator base.
Glue the block, centered on the LE, elevator base and ribs.

❏ ❏ 11. Sand the root end of the elevator even. Cut a root
doubler rib from the remaining 1/8" x 1" balsa stick. Glue

the doubler to the root end of the elevator.

Note: We used Robart Large Hinge Points #310 to hinge
the elevators to the stab. If you are using large hinge
points, glue balsa hinge blocks to the elevator at the hinge
locations.

❏ ❏ 12. Sand the tip of the elevator to match the outline
on the plan.

❏ ❏ 13. Use a razor plane and bar sander to shape the
ribs to match the typical elevator cross-section shown on
the plan. Note that there is some outward curvature of the
ribs to provide the scale ribbed appearance.

❏ 14. Return to step 1 and build the second elevator the
same way.

❏ 15. Use thick or medium CA to tack glue the elevators
to the stab — just a drop in three or four places. Make
sure to leave a 1/16" gap between the stab and the
balance tab root rib. Also, make sure the elevators are
centered vertically on the stab.

❏ 18. Position the elevators over the elevator plan and
mark the hinge locations. Tape the elevators to the stab
and transfer the hinge locations from the elevator to
the stab.

❏ 19. Mark a centerline on the LE of the elevators. Install
your heavy duty hinges (not included) at each hinge
location on the centerline of the elevator LE. Do not glue
the hinges in until after the stab and elevator are covered.

❏ 20. Test fit the hinges in the elevators and stab and
adjust as necessary to get a close fit between the LE of
the elevator and TE of the stab.

BUILD THE RUDDER

❏ 1. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa forward, aft and
balance tab bases together.

❏ 2. Place the rudder base over the plan and mark the
locations of the “ribs” on both sides of the base.

❏ 3. Use the plan to measure and cut a control surface
leading edge from the remaining shaped stick. Glue the
rudder base into the slot in the control surface LE,
perpendicular to the slot in the LE.

❏ 16. Use a razor plane and your sanding bar to sand the
elevator and stab tips flush. Avoid sanding the stab skin.
Proceed slowly, removing small amounts of material at
a time.

❏ 17. Mark each elevator and stab so they can be
reinstalled correctly later. Carefully “break” both elevators
free from the stab and sand off any glue bumps left from
the CA you used to tack glue the elevators to the stab.

❏ 4. Position the rudder with the LE hanging over the
edge of the table. Use the 1/8" x 9/32" x 30" balsa sticks
to make the rudder ribs, gluing them to the rudder at the
marks you made previously.

❏ 5. Cut and glue the rudder ribs to the other side of the
rudder base.

- 12 -

❏ 6. Sand the LE of the balance tab base and ribs even.
Cut a 3-1/2" long balance tab LE from the remaining 3/8"
x 3/4" balsa stick. Glue the LE, centered on the front edge
of the balance tab base and ribs.

❏ 7. Sand the bottom of the rudder even. Cut a root rib
from the remaining 1/8" x 1" balsa stick and glue it,
centered on the bottom of the rudder.

❏ 8. From the remaining 3/8" x 1-1/4" balsa block, cut a
torque rod block to fit the opening in the rudder base.
Glue the block, centered on the LE, rudder base and ribs.
Note: If large pin point hinges are used to hinge the
rudder to the fin, glue balsa hinge blocks to the rudder at
the hinge locations.

❏ 9. Sand the balance tab LE to match the outline on the
plan.

❏ 10. Use a razor plane and bar sander to shape the ribs
to match the typical rudder cross-section shown on the
plan. Note that there is some outward curvature of the ribs
to provide the scale ribbed appearance.

❏ 11. Use thick or medium CA to tack glue the rudder to
the fin — remember, just a drop in two or three places.
With the rudder centered on the fin TE, leave a 1/16" gap
between the fin and the balance tab.

❏ 12. Use a razor plane and your sanding bar to sand the
rudder and fin flush. Avoid sanding the fin skin. Proceed
slowly, removing small amounts of material at a time.

❏ 13. Position the rudder over the fuselage plan and mark
the hinge locations. Tape the rudder to the fin and transfer
the hinge locations from the rudder to the fin.

❏ 14. Mark a centerline on the LE of the rudder. Install
heavy duty hinges (not included) at each hinge location on
the centerline of the rudder LE. Do not glue the hinges in
until after the finish has been applied.

- 13 -

❏ 15. Mark “bevel to” lines on the sides of the rudder LE.
Shape the LE to a “V” as shown on the rudder cross­section.

❏ 16. Test fit the hinges in the elevators and stab and
adjust as necessary to get a close fit between the LE of
the elevator and TE of the stab.

BUILD THE WING

BUILD THE WING CENTER SECTION

NOTE: The wing root ribs are stamped only with a
number (2 is R-2), the wing tip ribs are stamped with a T
and a number (T4 is T-4).

❏ 1. The center section main spar is made of two
die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] lite plywood pieces (two halves)
glued to the back of four die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] birch
plywood pieces (four halves).

❏ 2. Lightly sand the surfaces of the six pieces that make
up the center main spar.

❏ 4. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]
lite ply ribs R-1 between the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] birch ply
sub ribs R-1C and R-1D. Also, epoxy the die-cut 1/8"
[3.2mm] lite ply ribs R-2 between the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]
birch ply sub ribs R-2C and R-2D. Remove any excess
epoxy using a paper towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol.

Be sure to make a left and a right of each assembly.

rib locations on the aft LE. Glue the die-cut 1/4" [6.4mm]
balsa forward center leading edge pieces together at
the center. With the joints opposite each other, glue the aft
LE, centered, on the forward LE. Do not apply glue to

the forward LE between the embossed lines.

Note: On some of the die-cut 1/4" [6.4mm] balsa pieces

the edges may be slightly deformed. This will not affect
the appearance of the wing since the edges will be
sanded to shape later in the building sequence.

❏ 7. Join the die-cut 1/4" [6.4mm] balsa forward center
trailing edge pieces at the center. Glue the die-cut 1/4"

[6.4mm] balsa aft center trailing edge pieces together at
the center. The forward TE is slightly wider than the aft TE.
Use the plan as a guide to mark the rib locations on the
forward TE. With the joints opposite each other, glue the
aft TE, centered, on the forward TE.

Die-Cut 1/8" [3.2mm] Birch Plywood

Center Main Spar

Die-Cut 1/8" [3.2mm] Lite Plywood

Center Main Spar

❏ 3. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the six center spar
pieces together. Make sure the joints of the birch plywood
spars are opposite each other. The joint of the lite plywood
spar, that is glued to the back, should match the front
birch plywood spar. Use the template on the wing plan to
assure proper alignment. Use weights to hold the
assembly flat on your building table while the epoxy cures.

❏ 5. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]
plywood sub ribs R-6A to the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa
ribs R-6. Remove any excess epoxy with a paper towel
dampened with isopropyl alcohol. Be sure to make a left

and a right of each assembly.

❏ 6. Join the die-cut 1/4" [6.4mm] balsa aft center
leading edge pieces at the center, over the template

provided on the plan. Use the plan as a guide to mark the

- 14 -

❏ 8. After the glue has cured, use a razor saw to cut loose
and remove the area of the forward LE between the
embossed lines.

❏ 9. Position the center main spar over the template on
the wing plan and mark the rib locations on both sides of
the spar.

❏ 10. Use epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] birch ply
forward spar doublers (FSD) to the forward center main
spar (the 1/8" birch ply main spar), aligning the doubler
with the slot for the landing gear strut and the top and
bottom of the center main spar.

❏ 11. Use epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] birch ply
aft spar doublers (ASD) to the aft center main spar (the
1/8" lite ply main spar), aligning the doubler with the slot
for the landing gear strut and the top and bottom of the
center main spar.

doubler. Remove any excess epoxy from the landing gear
rail slots before the epoxy cures.

❏ 13. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa forward ribs R-3
through R-5 in their respective locations, perpendicular to
the center main spar.

❏ 14. Test fit the two die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood wing
dowel plates (WDP) in the slots in the sub ribs R-6A.

Check the alignment of the assembly with the marks on
the center main spar. When satisfied with the fit, use
epoxy to glue the dowel plates to the ribs and the ribs to
the main spar, making sure the ribs are perpendicular to
the main spar.

❏ 17. From the remaining 1/2" x 7/8" balsa stick, make
two 7/8" tall blocks to support the aft ends of ribs R-1A
and to prevent the center section from twisting. Tack glue
the blocks to the ribs. Pin the blocks to your building board
and weight down the center section.

❏ 18. Glue the balsa TE assembly, centered on the aft
end of the ribs.

❏ 19. Center the LE assembly on the forward end of the
ribs. Glue the LE to ribs R-1 and R-2.

❏ 12. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the forward rib R-1 and
R-2 assemblies perpendicular to the center main spar
and forward spar doublers. Be sure to align the slot for the
landing gear rail, in the ribs, with the slot in the spar

❏ 15. Support the ends of the center main spar. Glue the
die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa aft ribs R-3 through R-6,
perpendicular to the aft side of the center main spar, flush
with the top and bottom edge.

❏ 16. Use epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood
aft ribs R-1A and R-2A, perpendicular to the aft side of
the center main spar and the aft spar doubler.

- 15 -

❏ 20. Insert the die-cut 1/4" balsa LE triplers from the
bottom, between ribs R-2 and R-5 and glue in place. Glue
ribs R-3, R-4, R-5 and R-6 to the LE.

❏ 21. Insert a T-pin from the back of the LE, through the
center of the 5/16" [7.9mm] holes in the wing dowel plate.
Keep the T-pins perpendicular to the LE as you push them
through. Remove the T-pins and drill a 3/16" [4.8mm] pilot
hole, through the balsa LE, at the pin hole locations. Enlarge
the holes to 5/16" [7.9mm] making sure that the holes in the
forward dowel plate align with the holes in the aft dowel plate.

❏ 22. From the 1/4" x 3/8" x 18" basswood stick, cut four
3" [76.2mm] long hatch rails. Use epoxy to glue the hatch
rails in the notches in ribs R-4B and R-5B.

BUILD THE WING TIP PANELS

NOTE: The tip panels are built “UPSIDE-DOWN” on the
wing plan (the jig tabs on the ribs are attached to
what is, in the end, the TOP surface of the wing.)

❏ ❏ 1. Place the wing tip panel plan on a flat building
board. Cover the plan with plan protector or wax paper.

T-Pin

Spar

❏ ❏ 2. Pin the 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" basswood main spar in
position over the plan.

❏ ❏ 3. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa ribs T- 1
through T-7, perpendicular to the spar. Make sure the jig
tabs at the TE are flat against the building board.

❏ ❏ 5. Notch the root end of the shaped 30" [762mm] balsa
LE and the 1/2" x 1" x 30" balsa TE to match the plan.

❏ ❏ 6. Glue the TE centered on the aft end of the ribs.
Note: Rib T-7 is glued flush with the top edge (plan side)
of the TE.

❏ ❏ 7. With the wing weighted down so the entire top spar
and all the jig tabs rest on the building board, apply glue
to all the rib and bottom spar joints. Make sure the bottom
spar is securely glued at T-6 where it is notched.

❏ 23. From the 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" basswood stick, cut four
4-1/2" [114.3mm] long landing gear rails. Insert the rails
in the notches in ribs R-1 and R-2. Position the landing
gear on the rails, checking that the rails are parallel and
even. When satisfied with the fit, use 30-minute epoxy to
glue the rails in position.

T- 6

Cut a V-Notch in the Spar

❏ ❏ 4. Cut a V-notch in the 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" basswood
bottom spar so it can bend at rib T-6. Insert the bottom
spar into place. Do not glue the bottom spar to the ribs.

- 16 -

❏ ❏ 8. Glue the shaped LE, centered on the front of all
the ribs, except T-7 which will be off-center.

❏ ❏ 9. Use a straightedge to draw lines on the LE and TE,
from the bottom edge of rib T-6 to the bottom edge of rib
T-7. Use a razor plane and sanding bar to taper the LE
and TE.

❏ ❏ 10. Cut two 4-3/4" [120.65mm] long aileron hatch
rails from a 1/4" x 3/8" x 18" basswood stick. Use 6-minute

epoxy to glue the rails in the notches of ribs T-4 and T-5.

JOIN THE WING PANELS

HOW TO MAKE SERVO LEAD TUBES

When the aileron servos are mounted near the wing
tips, it can be difficult to route the servo wires through
the ribs to the wing root. An easy solution is to make

servo wire tubes.

❏ 1. Sand the center section LE to the approximate shape
of the wing tip panels LE. Avoid altering the shape of the
ribs during this process. A piece of masking tape on the
edge of each rib can be used to protect them. The final
shaping of the LE will be done after the wing is joined.

❏ ❏ 2. Trim off all the wing tip panel jig tabs, except on
ribs T- 7 .

❏ ❏ A. Cut a piece of paper 6" wide and slightly longer
than the length needed to reach from the aileron servo
bay to the wing root.

❏ ❏ B. Roll the paper into a tube slightly smaller than
the holes in the wing ribs. Use a couple of pieces of
tape to hold the tube together.

❏ ❏ C. Insert the tube into the holes in the ribs and tack
glue the tube to the ribs with CA.

❏ ❏ 11. From the remaining 1/2" x 1/2" balsa stick, cut
and glue 3/4" [19mm] long hinge blocks, centered on the
trailing edge of the wing tip panel at the locations shown
on the wing plan.

❏ 12. Remove the wing tip panel from your building board.
Return to step 1 of the BUILD THE WING TIP PANELS
and build the other wing tip panel. Be sure to build a left
and right wing tip panel.

❏ ❏ 3. Draw a line on rib T-1 connecting the forward and
aft edges of the spars. Using a sharp hobby knife, remove
the wood from between the lines.

- 17 -

Rib T-1

Top Spar

15/16"
[23.8mm]

15/16"
[23.8mm]

Bottom Spar

❏ ❏ 4. On the wing tip panel, trim both the top and bottom
spar 15/16" [23.8mm] from rib T-1.

❏ ❏ 5. With the embossed “tip” away from the rib, position
the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood wing spacer, next to
the center main spar, against the center section rib R-1.
Slide the wing tip panel onto the center main spar. You
want the wing tip panel and wing center section to both fit
against the spacer. You will need to notch the LE and TE
of the wing center section to fit into the notches in the
wing tip panel LE and TE. The spar in the tip panel may
also need to be trimmed slightly. Sight down the tip panel
spar checking for alignment with the center main spar. If it
is not aligned, trim the LE or TE notches slightly, checking
the alignment often. Important: Remove only small
amounts of wood when trimming. If you remove too much,
it’s impossible to put it back.

❏ 6. Return to step 2 and fit the other wing tip panel to the
wing center section.

❏ 7. Place the wing upside down on your building table
with the 7/8" x 1-1/4" x 9-1/2" balsa dihedral jig block
under the center section, so that the center section is 7/8"
from the building board.

❏ 8. Apply weights to the wing tips so that the T-7 jig tabs
and spar tips are against the building table. Align the LE
and TE joints trimming if needed to relieve any stresses.
Make sure the center main spar and tip panel spars are
aligned.

❏ 9. Tack glue the TE and spar joints with CA.

❏ 10. Remove the wing tip weights and look at the entire

wing. Make sure there are no twists in the wing. If there
are any problems, pop loose the wing joints and realign
them.

- 18 -

❏ 11. Pop the tacked glue joints loose and apply
30-minute epoxy to all the joints between the wing center
section and wing tip panels. Use clamps to hold the joints
tight at the spar and T-pins to hold the LE and TE together.

❏ 12. Install the 1/2" x 1/2" balsa hinge point
reinforcement blocks at the locations shown on the wing
plan. The hinge blocks should be flush with the bottom of
the TE along the flaps.

❏ 13. Mark the hinge block locations on the aft edge of
the TE to make it easier finding them after the wing
is sheeted.

❏ 14. Sand the top and bottom of the wing even. Any high
spots will cause you to sand through the wing skins after
they are applied. It is important to have an even structure
if you want a smooth skin. Important: Do not remove the
jig tab on rib T-7 until after the bottom of the wing tip panel
is skinned.

❏ 15. Sand the center section LE and TE to blend with the
outer wing panels.

❏ 16. Sand the LE and TE’s to blend them into the ribs.

SHEET THE WING PANELS

❏ 1. Sort through the 3/32" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets,
separating the best wood with the most uniform grain for
the top wing skins. Use the remaining sheets for the
bottom skins.

30" [762mm]

3"
[76.2mm]

❏ 2. Make four outer wing panel skins using the method
described for making the stab skins. Cut two 3/32" x 3" x
30" balsa sheets in half diagonally. Edge glue one of
these sheets to four full 3/32" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets, that
have also been edge glued together.

6" [152.4mm]

1-1/2" [38.1mm]

14" [355.6mm]

12" [304.8mm]

7" [177.8mm]

1-1/2" [38.1mm]

3-1/2" [88.9mm]

❏ 4. Make two top TE skins by cutting two 14" [355.6mm]
long pieces from a 3/32" x 3" x 30" balsa sheet, four 12"
[304.8mm] long pieces from two 3/32" x 3" x 30" balsa
sheets and four 7" [177.8mm] long pieces from a fourth
3/32" x 3" x 30" balsa sheet. Edge glue a 3" x 12" piece
centered on each side of a 3" x 14" piece. Then, edge
glue a 3" x 7" piece, centered on each 12" piece. After the
glue dries, trim the top TE skin following the sketch above.

❏ ❏ 5. Hold an outer wing panel skin over the bottom of
the outer wing panel. The wood grain of the skin runs
parallel to the main spar. Mark the shape of the wing on
the skin, allowing about 3/16" [4.8mm] extra on all sides.
Cut the wing skin along the marks. On the wing bottom,
the outer wing panel is sheeted from rib T-6 to the center
of R-1. We suggest adding a piece of left over balsa, from
the rib dies, to each side of R-1A, aft of the center spar.
This will provide a larger gluing surface for the wing skin.
Save the excess skin for use later.

adjustments necessary for a good fit. Use thick CA to glue
the wing skin to the LE first. Use masking tape to hold it in
position until the CA cures. Next, wet the outside of the
sheeting with warm water. This will soften the sheeting and
allow it to bend around the LE. Apply thick CA to all the
structure that will contact the bottom of the wing tip
sheeting, from the main spar forward. Carefully press the
wing skin onto the structure and hold it in place until the
glue cures. Finally, carefully lift the aft edge of the wing tip
sheeting and apply thick CA to the remaining structure and
press the sheeting against the structure until the CA cures.
From a 3/32" x 3" x 30" balsa sheet, cut a piece to finish the
sheeting at the TE. Note: Aliphatic resin glue may be
substituted for thick CA when sheeting the wing. Use pins or
weights to hold the sheeting in position while the clue cures.

❏ ❏ 7. Do any trimming necessary to fit the outer wing
panel skin piece cut off in step 5, over ribs T-6 and T-7 and
glue it in place.

Repeat steps 5, 6 and 7 for the other wing tip panel.

7-1/2"

[190.5mm]

3" [76.2mm]

❏ 3. Make four forward top LE skins by cutting ten
5-7/8" [149.2mm] long pieces from two 3/32" x 3" x 30"
balsa sheets. Cut two of the pieces in half lengthwise.
Edge glue two 3" x 5-7/8" pieces and one 1-1/2" x 5-7/8"
piece together to make four 3/32" x 5-7/8" x 7-1/2" forward
top LE skins.

❏ ❏ 6. Place the wing center section on the dihedral block
and the wing tips against the building table. Check the fit of
the wing skin on the outer wing panel and make any

- 19 -

❏ 8. Remove the weight from the wing tips and turn the
wing over. Remove the jig tab on rib T-7. With the wing
resting on the building table, position the die-cut 1/8"

[3.2mm] plywood wing jigs under the wing tips at T-7 and
the 1-1/4" x 1-3/4" x 3-1/4" balsa block under the wing
center section TE. The wing tips must be seated on the
wing jigs and the jigs against the building table in order to
provide the proper amount of washout in the wing tips,
when sheeted. Note: The wing jigs can be tack glued to
the excess bottom sheeting, 1/16" [1.6mm] past rib T-7.

❏ 9. Before applying the top skin, rough cut the bottom
skin from over the aileron hatch openings.

❏ ❏ 10. Hold an outer wing panel skin over the top of the
outer wing panel. The wood grain of the skin runs parallel
to the main spar. Mark the shape of the wing on the skin,
allowing about 3/16" [4.8mm] extra on all sides. On the
wing top, the outer wing panel is skinned from rib T-7 to
the center of R-1. We again, suggest adding a piece of left
over balsa to each side of R-1A.

❏ ❏ 11. Use thick CA to glue the wing skin to the LE first.
Use masking tape to hold it in position until the CA cures.
Next, wet the outside of the skin with warm water. Apply
thick CA to all the structure that will contact the bottom of
the wing skin from the main spar forward. Carefully press
the wing skin onto the structure and hold it in place until
the glue cures. Finally, carefully lift the aft edge of the
wing tip sheeting and apply thick CA to the remaining
structure and press the sheeting against the structure until
the CA cures. Use the remaining 3/32" x 3" balsa sheet
from step 4 to complete the sheeting at the TE .

Repeat steps 10 and 11 for the other wing tip panel.

❏ 12. Trim and sand the top and bottom wing tip skin flush
with the LE, TE and wing tip rib T-7.

❏ ❏ 13. The forward bent section of the wing is skinned
with the 3/32" x 5-7/8" x 7-1/2" balsa forward LE skin
assembled in step 3. The grain of the wood runs parallel
to the LE of the wing. The edge of the LE skin that fits
against the wing tip panel skin will need to be trimmed to
a curved shape. The best method to accomplish this is to
rub chalk along the edge of the wing tip skin. Wet the top
of the LE skin with warm water and carefully press the
forward LE skin into position. Remove the LE skin and trim
it along the chalk line. Check the fit and trim as necessary
to achieve a good fit.

❏ ❏ 14. Don’t worry about trimming the other edges of the
forward LE skin until after it is installed. Put a mark on the
edge of the wing tip panel skin, at the middle of the main
center spar. Wet the top of the LE skin again. Apply
medium or thick CA to the top of rib R-1, R-2, the forward

half of the center main spar and LE, from rib R-1 to
R-3. Press the LE skin onto the ribs, LE and center spar

starting at rib R-1 and working toward R-3.

- 20 -

❏ ❏ 15. Use a flexible straightedge to trim the LE skin
along the middle of the main center spar and along the
center of rib R-3. Glue the LE skin to R-3.

❏ ❏ 16. Use the chalk method to trim a second piece of
3/32" x 5-7/8" x 7-1/2" balsa sheeting to fit from R-3 to the
center of R-5.

Repeat steps 13 and 16 for the other end of the wing
center section

❏ ❏ 17. With the wood grain running diagonally to the TE,
use the chalk method to fit the previously assembled 3/32"
x 10- 1/8" x 10-1/8" top TE skin, to the TE of the wing
center section, between ribs R-1 and R-5. You will need to
wet the wood before trying to fit it in position.

❏ ❏ 18. When satisfied with the fit of the top TE skin, wet
it again; apply medium or thick CA on ribs R-1 thorough
R-4, the center spar and the TE between R-1 and R-5.
Press the TE skin onto the structure and hold it in position
until the CA cures.

❏ ❏ 19. After the CA cures, trim the top TE skin to the
center of rib R-5 and flush with the TE. Glue the TE skin to
rib R-5.

Repeat steps 17 through 19 for the other end of the
wing center section

❏ 20. Use 3/32" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets to skin the top of
the wing center section between the R-5 ribs.

❏ 21. Turn the wing over and apply CA to any top skins
that may not be glued securely to the structure.

SHEET THE BOTTOM CENTER SECTION

between the servo hatch rails. This will provide a larger
gluing surface for the bottom wing skins. Note: All of the
bottom center skins are cut from 3/32" x 3" x 24" balsa
sheets. You may find it faster and easier to skin both the
left and right sides at the same time to avoid having to
determine skin shapes twice.

❏ ❏ 4. Trim and glue a second skin to fit aft of the first skin.
Trim the hatch opening and glue the skin to the hatch rails.

❏ ❏ 2. Cut a 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa skin to fit between ribs
R-1 and the center of R-5. The first skin should cover the
aft half of the main center spar. Wet the skin and glue it to
the main spar and ribs starting at rib R-1. Do not glue the
skin to the servo hatch rails or the doubler on R-4.

❏ ❏ 5. Trim and glue a third skin aft of the second skin.
After the glue has cured, trim the skin flush with the TE.

❏ 1. We suggest adding a piece of left over 1/8" [3.2mm]
balsa, from the rib dies, to the side of ribs R-4 and R-5,

❏ ❏ 3. Use the flap hatch as a template to trim the skin
that covers the R-4 rib doubler and the forward half of the
hatch rail. After trimming the skin from over the hatch
opening, glue it to the hatch rail and the rib doubler.

❏ ❏ 6. Glue the shelf rib R-3C to the side of rib R-3 with
the aft edge of R-3C flush with the aft edge of R-3 and
against the main center spar. Note: R-3C has been
stained for clarity in the photo.

- 21 -

❏ ❏ 7. Cut a 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa skin to fit between ribs
R-1 and R-3C. The first skin should cover the forward half
of the main center spar. Wet the skin and glue it to the
main spar and ribs starting at rib R-1.

❏ 10. Sand the wing skin flush with the LE, TE and tip ribs
R-7T.

❏ 11. Make two sets of 1-3/4" [44.5mm] thick wing tips by
gluing two shaped 7/8" [22.3mm] balsa wing tips together.

BUILD THE FUSELAGE

BUILD THE UPPER FUSE SIDES

❏ 1. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]
plywood upper fuse crutch doublers (UFCD) to the
inside of both die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood upper fuse
crutches (UFC). Align the notches and the top edges. Be
sure to make a left and a right upper fuse crutch assembly.

❏ ❏ 8. Cut a second 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa skin to fit between
ribs R-1 and R-3C. Trim the skin to fit around the bump for
the oil cooler. Wet the sheet and glue it to the LE and ribs.
Use a leftover piece of 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa to finish the LE.

❏ ❏ 9. Cut 3/32" [92.4mm] balsa skin to fit between ribs
R-3 and the center of R-5, from the center of the main
spar to the LE.

❏ 12. Glue the wing tips onto the wing. Use a knife, razor
plane and sanding bar to shape the wing tips.

❏ 13. Using the wing cross-section shown on the plan as
a guide, rough sand a radius on the LE of the wing and
wing tips.

Now is a good time to set the wing aside, clean off
your building table and get ready to build the
fuselage.

- 22 -

❏ 2. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.22mm] plywood air tank
saddle (ATS) to the front of the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]

plywood former F-5. Drill 3/16" [4.8mm] holes through the
punch marks at the locations shown on F-5. These holes
are for mounting the outer pushrod tubes. The remaining
two punch marks are for the pull-pull tail wheel steering
cable and should be drilled to match the size of the outer
cable tube.

❏ 3. Glue together the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood
formers F-6A to F-6B and F-7A to F-7B. Drill 3/16" [4.8mm]
holes through the punch marks at the locations shown.

❏ 4. Drill 3/16" [4.8mm] holes through the punch marks on
the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood formers F-8, F-9 and F-10.

❏ 7. Pin the main fuselage stringers, with the 1/8"
[3.2mm] slot facing outward, accurately over the plan.

❏ 8. Position the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood fuse
crutch top (FCT) on the upper fuse crutches. The slot at

the bottom of the upper fuse crutches face inward. Note
that the front of the crutch top is angled to the right. The
angle will build in the proper right thrust into the firewall.
Mark the right upper fuse crutch at the front of the crutch
top and trim it to this mark.

❏ 10. After the epoxy cures, insert the die-cut 1/8" [3.2)
plywood former F-2 into the slots in the crutch top and
crutch. Position the assembly over the plan. With F-2
perpendicular to the building board, glue F-2 to the crutch
and the main fuse stringers.

NOTE: Some of the formers are not symmetrical and
must be glued in with the proper orientation. The numbers
are embossed on the front of the formers and must be
installed facing the front of the model.

❏ 11. Cut the 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" basswood crutch
stringers to 25" [635.0mm] long and pin them into

position. Save the remaining stringer for use later.

❏ 5. Cut one of the 36" [914.4mm] long shaped balsa
main fuselage stringers in half. Place a mark 1/2"
[12.7mm] from the end of a 36" [914.4mm] and an 18"
[457.2mm] main stringer. Tack glue the two stringers
together, overlapping them by 1/2" [12.7mm]. Cut the two
stringers at an angle and glue them together end-to-end.

❏ 6. Place the fuselage top view plan on a flat building
board. Cover the plan with plan protector or wax paper.

❏ 9. Reassemble the fuse crutch and crutch top. Turn the
assembly upside down and use epoxy to glue the fuse
crutch, perpendicular to the crutch top. Make sure the
crutch top is flat against your building board and fully
seated in the fuse crutches.

- 23 -

❏ 12. With the crutch assembly flat against the building
board, use epoxy to glue the crutch stringers to the
outside of the crutch, so that the end of the stinger is flush
with the front of F-2. Use clamps and T-pins to hold the
assembly secure until the epoxy cures.

❏ 13. Insert the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood formers
F-3 and F-4 into their appropriate slots in the fuse crutch.
Glue the formers to the crutch, crutch stringers and main
fuse stringers.

❏ 14. Position the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood formers
F-5, F-6 and F-7 over the plan, perpendicular to the
building board. Glue the formers to the crutch stringers
and main fuse stringers. Use silicone glue to glue the
retract air tank (not included) to formers F-4 and F-5. For
clarity, the tank is not shown installed in the instruction
manual.

❏ 15. From the remaining 3/8" x 1/2" basswood stringer,
used in step 11, cut two support rails 4-3/4" [120.7mm]
long. Position the rails over the plan and glue the die-cut
1/8" [3.2mm] plywood former F-9 to the main fuse
stringers, perpendicular to the building board. Use epoxy
to glue F-9 to the support rails.

❏ 16. Use epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm]
plywood upper right gear doubler (URGD) to the die-cut
1/8" [3.2mm] plywood upper right gear support (URGS)
and the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood upper left gear

doubler (ULGD) to the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood
upper left gear support (ULGS). Important: Study the

picture carefully to make sure you glue the doublers to the
correct side. Be sure to remove all excess epoxy from the
die-cut holes.

❏ 17. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the upper gear
supports to the inside of the support rails and former F-9.
Also, use epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] former
F-8 to the front of the upper gear supports and the
support rails. Make sure that the left and right gear
supports are glued to the correct sides.

- 24 -

❏ 18. From the remaining 3/8" x 1/2" basswood, cut a 3"
[76.2mm] long tailgear rail. Use epoxy to glue the rail in
the upper gear supports.

❏ 19. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood aft fuse
plate (AFP) between the main fuse stringers.

❏ 20. Drill a 1/8" [3.2mm] hole in the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]
plywood torque rod support plate (TRSP) for the rudder
torque rod bracket. Drill two 3/32" [2.4mm] pilot holes for
the torque rod bracket screws.

Enlarge hole to 1/8" [3.2mm]

Remove this pin

❏ 21. Use epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood
former F-10 to the main fuse stringers and the lower aft
fuse plate, perpendicular to the building board. Also use
epoxy to glue the torque rod support plate to formers F-9
and F-10.

❏ 22. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood stab base
supports (SBS) and stab base (SB) on the aft fuse plate.

Note that the base supports angle in slightly at the top.
When satisfied with the fit, use epoxy to glue the
assembly to the aft fuse plate, main stringers and former
F-10. Use a paper towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol
to wipe off any excess epoxy before it cures.

❏ 24. From the 1/4" x 1/4" x 30" balsa stick, cut and glue
diagonal braces to the main stringers, between F-6 and F-7,
F-7 and F-9 and F-9 and F-10. Note: The brace between F-7
and F-9 goes through F-8 and the right gear support.

❏ 25. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3/32") plywood radio tray
(RT) between F-4 and F-5. Remove the plywood servo

screw doublers from inside the servo openings and glue
them to the top of the servo tray behind each opening.

❏ 27. Enlarge the rudder torque rod hole to 5/32" in the

rudder torque rod bracket. Remove the plastic pin
closest to the torque rod hole.

❏ 28. Remove 1/2" [12.7mm] from the threaded end of
the rudder torque rod.

❏ 29. Use the template on the fuse plan to assemble the
rudder torque rod using the 4-3/4" plastic spacer, 6-32
threaded rod and rudder torque rod bracket.

❏ 23. Use epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood former
F-11 to the aft end of the saddle supports and the
main stringers.

❏ 26. Edge glue the two die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood
cockpit floor halves together. Glue the cockpit floor to
formers F-5 and F-6. Note: If you are going to install the
full cockpit, the cockpit floor will be cut out later.

- 25 -

❏ 30. Insert the threaded end of the torque rod through
the stab saddle and mount the torque rod bracket to the
torque rod support plate with two #4 x 3/8" sheet metal
screws. Use epoxy to glue the two die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]
plywood torque rod brackets to the lower plastic spacer
and former F-10.

❏ 31. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood instrument
panel perpendicular to the top of the cockpit floor,
1-5/16" [33.3mm] from the back of former F-5.

❏ 33. Remove the T-pins holding the fuse to the building
board. Use a sanding bar to blend the stringers with the
formers, sanding any glue joints smooth that might affect
the sheeting of the fuselage.

❏ 34. Glue the 1/8" x 1/4" x 36" balsa sub stringers into
the slots in each of the main fuse stringers. These will
provide a shelf for the sheeting to rest on.

SHEET THE FUSE TOP

❏ 1. Trim the edges straight on four 1/8" x 3" x 30" balsa
sheets. Glue two sheets together to make two 6" x 30"
forward sheets.

❏ 2. With the fuse on your building board, add weight to
the top of the fuse to hold it flat against the building board.

❏ ❏ 4. Use bright colored chalk to mark the top full length
stringer. Wet the outside of the forward sheet and carefully
wrap it around the formers, pressing it against the marked
stringer. Trim the sheet so that it covers half of the top full
length stringer. Test fit the forward sheet to the fuse frame
and trim as necessary.

❏ ❏ 5. Use thin CA to glue the forward sheet to the main
fuse stringer and sub stringer only between F-4 and F-5.
Apply medium CA to the edge of F-4 and F-5 and the
edge of the instrument panel. Carefully wrap the forward
sheet against the formers. Use thin CA to glue the forward
sheet to the stringers between F-4 and F-5.

❏ 32. Glue 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" balsa stringers in the notches
of the formers from F-2 to F-10. The stringers on the side
will need to be spliced together to span the full distance.

❏ ❏ 3. Pin one of the 6" x 30" balsa forward sheets on the
sub stringer. Trim the aft end of the sheet so that it is
centered on former F-6, allowing the forward end to
extend past F-2.

- 26 -

❏ ❏ 6. Work your way forward and aft from this point, one
former section at a time. Glue the forward sheet to the
main stringer (at the bottom edge of the forward sheet)
first. Then, to the formers and upper stringer for that
segment. If you notice the center of the fuse trying to lift
off of the building board during this process, the bottom
edge of the forward sheet will need to be trimmed slightly.

Repeat steps 3 to 6 for the other fuse side.

❏ 7. Trim and sand the sheeting flush with the front of
former F-2.

6" [152.4mm]

36" [914.4mm]

3" [76.2mm]

1" [25.4mm]

11" [279.4mm]

30" [762mm]

3" [76.2mm]

sheets. Position the deck sheet against the edge of the
forward sheet and check its fit, trimming the sheet to the
center of the stringer. Glue the deck sheet in place
starting at the top edge of the forward sheet. Apply glue to
the formers and the top 1/4" [6.4mm] top stringer. Wrap
the deck sheet around the formers toward the top stringer.
Repeat the process for the other forward deck sheet.

❏ 8. Cut one 1/8" x 3" x 36" balsa aft sheet in half
diagonally. Edge glue a full 1/8" x 3" x 36" balsa aft sheet
and one diagonal sheet together. Make two aft sheets as
shown in the sketch above.

❏ ❏ 9. Trim the aft sheet to fit against the forward sheet at
former F-6.

❏ 11. From two 1/8" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets, cut a 1" x 11"
[25.4 x 279.4mm] piece from one end of each sheet. Edge
glue the 1" [25.4mm] piece to the other end of the sheet.

❏ 12. Use the pattern provided on the plan to cut two turtle
deck side sheets out of the previous cut 1/8" [3.2mm]

balsa sheets. Check the fit of the turtle deck side sheets
against the edge of the aft sheet, flush with the front of
former F-6. Glue the turtle deck side sheet in place starting
at the top edge of the aft sheet. Apply glue to the formers
and the 1/4" [6.4mm] top stringer and wrap the turtle deck
sheet around the formers toward the top stringer. Repeat
the process for the other turtle deck side sheet.

❏ 14. Sand the deck sheeting flush with the front of former
F-2.

❏ 15. Use a sanding bar to sand the top of the turtle deck
side sheeting flush with the top of formers F-6 through
F-9.

❏ ❏ 10. Follow the same procedure used on the forward
sheet to install the aft sheet to the fuse frame, starting at
formers F-7 and F-8. Trim the excess aft sheet 1" beyond
former F-12 ( use the plans to locate F-12). Note: the
bottom of the aft sheet will need to be trimmed to allow
the sheet to fit properly.

Repeat steps 9 and 10 for the other fuse side.

❏ 16. Place the 9/16" x 2-1/2" x 24" balsa turtledeck top
on top of the turtle deck sides. Trace the shape of the fuse
onto the bottom of the block and roughly cut the block to
shape.

❏ 13. Use the pattern provided on the plan to cut two
forward deck sheets out of two 1/8" x 3" x 24" balsa

- 27 -

❏ 17. Mark an 11/16" [17.5mm] wide slot, approximately
5-1/8" long, centered on the aft end of the turtledeck top
for the fin to protrude through. Notice that the fin LE
sweeps back. Cut the slot into the turtledeck top.
Temporarily plug the fin into the slots in formers F-9 and
F-10. Adjust the slot in the turtledeck top if necessary for a
good fit.

❏ 19. Tack glue the turtledeck top to the fuse being careful
to not glue the fin in place. Remove the fin and thoroughly
glue the turtledeck top to the fuse with thin CA.

❏ 20. Shape the turtledeck top to match the cross-section
on the plan. A razor plane is helpful for this kind of shaping.

BUILD THE FUSE BOTTOM

❏ 1. Cut the three 36" [914.4mm] outer pushrod guide
tubes to the lengths required for the rudder and elevator

pushrods (see the fuse side view).

❏ 2. Carefully sand the outside of the three outer pushrod
guide tubes with coarse sandpaper so the glue will adhere
to the formers better. Slide the tubes through the 3/16"
[4.8mm] holes in the formers so that they are positioned
as shown on the fuse plan. Securely glue the tubes to all
the formers.

❏ 18. Mark the fin where the fin contacts the turtledeck
top. Remove the fin and trim off the LE forward of the
mark. This will allow the fin to be removed after the
turtledeck top is installed.

❏ 21. Position the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood former
F-12 in position over the fuse plan. Make sure it is
perpendicular to the building board and glue it to the aft
fuse sides. Trim the aft fuse sides flush with the top of the
stab saddle and F-12.

❏ 22. Remove the fuse from the building board and
inspect all the glue joints from the inside. Apply CA to any
open joints.

- 28 -

❏ 3. Thread a nylon torque rod horn onto the threaded
end of the rudder torque rod so that several threads
protrude from the horn. Attach a 4-40 solder clevis to the
torque rod horn.

❏ 4. Install a high torque rudder servo in the radio tray.
Connect the rudder servo and battery to the receiver,
switch on the radio system and center the servo arm.
Thread a 4-40 metal clevis onto a 4-40 x 36" threaded
pushrod. Insert the pushrod into the rudder outer pushrod
tube and connect the clevis to the servo arm on the
rudder servo.

HOW TO ACHIEVE A GOOD SOLDER JOINT

❏ A. Roughen the area to be soldered with fine sandpaper.

Thoroughly clean the area with rubbing alcohol.

❏ B. Assemble the items to be soldered.

❏ C. Apply a small drop of solder flux to the joint.

❏ D. Heat the area to be soldered. Apply solder to the

heated area. The metal must get hot enough to melt
the solder and the solder must flow into the joint. Do
not melt the solder by touching it to the soldering iron.

❏ E. Do not move the parts until the solder has cooled.

❏ F. Clean off the excess flux with isopropyl alcohol.

❏ G. Test the joint by pulling on it.

❏ 8. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]

plywood lower fuse crutch doublers (LFCD) to the inside
of both die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood lower fuse crutches
(LFC). Align the notches and the wing saddle. Be sure to
make a left and a right lower fuse crutch assembly.

❏ 9. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]
plywood wing bolt plate tripler (WBPT) to the inside of
both lower fuse crutch doublers.

❏ 5. Position the rudder torque rod so that the unthreaded
arm is aligned with the centerline of the fuse. Mark the
rudder pushrod at the solder clevis. Remove and cut the
rudder pushrod to the appropriate length.

❏ 6. Solder the solder clevis onto the end of the rudder
pushrod with silver solder.

❏ 7. Remove the 4-40 threaded metal clevis and slide a
silicone retainer over the solder clevis. Insert the rudder
pushrod into the rudder outer pushrod tube from the aft
end of the fuse. Attach the solder clevis to the rudder
torque rod and slide the silicone retainer over the clevis.
Remove the rudder servo.

❏ 10. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]
plywood former F-3C to the front of the former F-3B. After
the epoxy cures, drill two 5/16" [7.9mm] holes through
F-3C using the holes in F-3B as guides.

- 29 -

crutches to check that they fit together flush and the joints
between the crutches are tight. Test fit the die-cut 1/8"
plywood formers F-6C, F-3B and the crutch bottom (CB)
on the lower fuse crutch.

❏ 15. When satisfied with the fit of the lower crutch, use
30-minute epoxy to glue the lower crutch to the upper
crutch. Also use epoxy to glue F-3C, F-6C and the crutch
bottom into position. Use plenty of clamps to hold the
upper and lower crutches together until the epoxy cures.

❏ 11. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/16"
[1.6mm] plywood lower gear supports doublers (LGSD)
to the inside of both die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood lower
gear supports (LGS). Align the notches and the forward
and aft ends. Be sure to make a left and a right lower gear
support assembly.

❏ 12. Position the lower right fuse crutch on the upper right
fuse crutch. Mark the front of the lower fuse crutch even
with the front of the upper fuse crutch and trim to length.

❏ 13. Drill holes to match the size of the outer pull-pull tail
wheel steering cable guide tubes at the punch marks in the
die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood formers F-6C, F-7C and F-8B.

❏ 18. Insert the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood former F-6D
into the slots in the lower crutch. Note that the aft bottom of
the lower crutch will need to be trimmed slightly to clear the
stringer notch in F-6D. After trimming the lower crutch glue
F-6D to the lower crutch, crutch stringer and main stringer.

❏ 16. Hold a straightedge against the front of former F-2
while gluing the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood former F-2B
to the lower crutch, crutch bottom, main stringer and
crutch stringer. F-2B. Also, make sure F-2B is positioned
at the back of the slot in the crutch bottom.

❏ 19. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood formers
F-7C, F-9B and F-10B to the main stringers and the front
of their respective formers.

❏ 14. Test fit the lower fuse crutches to the upper fuse
crutches. Place a straightedge against the face of both

❏ 17. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood formers F-4B
and F-5B to the lower crutch, crutch stringer and
main stringer.

- 30 -

❏ 20. Test fit the lower gear supports, assembled in step
11, over the upper gear supports, checking that they fit

flush with each other. Slide former F-8B over the lower
gear supports. When satisfied with the fit, use 6-minute
epoxy to glue the assembly in the fuse.

❏ 21. From the remaining 3/8" x 1/2" basswood stick, cut
a 3" long tailgear rail. Use epoxy to glue the rail in the
notched lower gear supports.

❏ 22. Carefully roughen the outside of the tail wheel
steering guide tubes with sandpaper. Insert and glue the
tubes in formers F-5 through F-8B.

❏ 23. Glue in the lower forward and aft 1/4" [6.4mm]
stringers. After the CA cures, sand the forward stringers
flush with F-2B and F-3B and the aft stringers flush with
F-6D through F-10B.

❏ 24. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the shaped 1/4" x
1-3/8" x 5-15/16" plywood wing bolt plate into the
notches of the lower crutch. Also, from the 1/2" x 1/2" x
12" balsa triangle, cut and glue reinforcements to the joint
between the wing bolt plate and lower crutch.

INSTALL THE FIREWALL

The following instructions will describe the procedure for
mounting a 41cc US Engine and Great Planes Large
Engine Isolation Mount. The installation procedure may
differ slightly if a different engine and engine mount are used.

❏ 1. Use the template on the fuse plan to mark the
centerlines and the offset lines on the shaped 1/4" x
4-11/16" x 5-7/16" plywood firewall. The offset lines allow
for the right thrust of the engine.

Option: If you are not using a Great Planes Isolation
Mount, skip to step 3.

- 31 -

❏ 2. Use the template on the fuse plan to mark the offset
line on the plywood isolation mount. If you will be installing
a US Engines 41, use the template to mark the mounting
hole locations on the isolation mount. If you are not
installing a US Engines 41, center the engine on the offset
lines and mark the mounting holes.

❏ 3. Align the offset lines on the isolation mount with the
offset lines on the firewall. Transfer the mounting hole
locations onto the firewall.

Option: If using a different type of engine mount, align the
centerline of the engine mount with the offset lines on the
firewall and mark the mounting holes.

❏ 4. Drill a 5/16" hole through the firewall at each
mounting hole location.

Option: For another engine mount, drill the appropriate
size hole, specified by the engine mount manufacturer.

❏ 5. Clean the 1/4-24 blind nuts with isopropyl alcohol and
use epoxy to glue them into the mounting holes from the
back of the firewall.

Option: If your engine mount comes with blind nuts, use
epoxy to glue them into the mounting holes from the back
of the firewall. If your engine mount uses a different
mounting method, follow the manufacturers mounting
instructions.

SHEET THE BOTTOM OF THE FUSE

❏ 1. Use a sanding bar to blend the stringers to the formers.

❏ 2. To provide a larger gluing surface for the lower fuse

sheeting, glue leftover pieces of 1/8" balsa to the front of
former F-6D, from the main stringer to the first 1/4"
stringer. Sand the balsa flush with the former.

5" [127mm]

3" [76.2mm]

❏ 5. Glue the lower fuse sheet to the main stringer. After the
CA cures, wet the sheet; apply medium or thick CA to the
formers and stringers and wrap the sheet around the
structure. Trim the sheet to the middle of the bottom stringer.

❏ 6. Apply the second lower fuse sheet to the other side
of the fuse.

15" [381mm]

❏ 6. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the firewall into the fuse
crutch. The face of the firewall should be flush with the
forward edges of the crutch. Important: Make sure the
firewall is installed with the blind nuts offset to the left side
(as viewed from the cockpit with the fuselage right side up)
of the crutch. Wipe off the excess epoxy with a paper towel
dampened with isopropyl alcohol before the epoxy cures.

❏ 7. From the remaining 1/2" [12.7mm] balsa triangle
stick, use epoxy to glue firewall reinforcements along
the joint between the firewall and the crutch sides, top and
bottom.

24" [609.6mm]

❏ 3. Cut four 5" long pieces from a 1/8" x 3" x 24" balsa sheet.
Make two forward lower fuse sheets by edge gluing one 1/8"
x 3" x 24" balsa sheet and two 3" x 5" balsa sheets together.

❏ 4. Trim the aft edge of the forward lower fuse sheet so
that it covers the 1/8" balsa on the front of former F-6D.

- 32 -

1" [25.4mm]

❏ 7. Make four aft lower fuse sheets from four 1/8" x 3" x
30" balsa sheets following the sketch above.

❏ 8. Glue the aft lower fuse sheet in place, from the main
stringer to the center of the first stringer, using the same
technique used on the upper fuse sheet. Start by gluing
the sheet at the middle of the main stringer and working
toward the ends. It will be necessary to wet the outer
surface of the sheet to permit bending.

❏ 9. Fit and glue a second lower fuse sheet to the other side.

❏ 10. Fit a third lower fuse sheet in place from the middle

of the first stringer to the middle of the bottom stringer.
Start by gluing the sheet at the center of the first stringer
and working toward the ends. It again, will be necessary
to wet the outer surface of the sheet to permit bending.

❏ 11. Fit and glue the fourth lower fuse sheet to the other side.

❏ 12. Trim and sand the lower fuse sheeting flush with

former F-10B

MOUNT THE WING ON THE FUSE

❏ 1. Set the wing in the wing saddle. Sand a slight radius
on the LE of the center section to match the shape of the
wing saddle.

❏ 14. Sheet the wing saddle area with 1/64" x 2" x 24"
plywood sheeting. Trim and sand the edges of the sheeting
flush with the fuse sides and the lower fuse crutch.

❏ 2. Round the ends of the 5/16" x 4-1/2" [7.9mm x

114.3mm] hardwood wing dowels and install them into
the holes in the LE of the wing. Trial fit the wing onto the
fuse, making any necessary adjustments to the wing and
fuse for a good fit. If the dowel alignment is interfering with
the wing fit, “elongate" the hole in the LE slightly.

❏ 3. Using epoxy, glue the two wing dowels into the wing
so that they protrude about 1/2" forward of the LE.

❏ 13. Place a strip of masking tape over the plywood wing
saddle edges to prevent them from being inadvertently
altered. Use a sanding bar to carefully sand the bottom
fuse sheeting to the same height as the wing saddle. Also,
sand the sheeting flush with formers F-3B and F-6D.

❏ 15. Sand the face of formers F-2 and F-2B flat and
even. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood formers F-1
on the front of F-2. Notice that the joint between the F-1
formers is vertical. When satisfied with the fit, use
30-minute epoxy to glue F-1 to F-2 and the crutch. Use
masking tape to hold F-1 tight against F-2. Wipe off any
excess epoxy with a paper towel dampened in isopropyl
alcohol, before the epoxy cures.

❏ 4. For later access to the servo wires and air lines,
carefully cut an opening in the top center sheeting, in line
with the flap servo hatch openings.

- 33 -

❏ 5. Use 3/32" x 3" x 24" balsa to sheet the bottom of the
wing center section, between the R-5 ribs.

❏ 6. Cover the wing saddle with plan protector or wax
paper. Place the wing in the wing saddle.

A

B

❏ 8. Tape the wing in position and cut a piece of 3/32"
[2.4mm] balsa sheet to fit in the wing saddle behind the wing,
flush with the fuse sides. With the balsa sheet and the wing
tight against the wing saddle, glue it to the TE of the wing.

❏ 9. Mark the tapered hardwood bolt plate with a
centerline. Put two lines 2-1/16" [52.4mm] outside the
centerline on the non-tapered (square) side of the block.
Drill two 3/16" [4.8mm] pilot holes, 1/2" [12.7mm] behind
the front (thick) edge of the block, perpendicular to the top
surface. Refer to the plan for the exact locations.

❏ 11. After the epoxy cures, check that the wing is still
centered on the fuse. Use weights to hold it firmly down.
Use a 13/64" [5.2mm] drill bit to drill through the pilot
holes in the tapered bolt plate and through the wing bolt
plate in the fuse.

❏ 12. Remove the wing and tap threads in the wing bolt
plate in the fuse with a 1/4-20 tap. Wick thin CA into the
threads to harden them. Allow the CA to cure. Then, screw
the tap back through the holes to clean up the threads.

❏ 13. Enlarge the holes in the tapered wing bolt plate, in
the wing only, with a 17/64" [6.7mm] drill bit.

❏ 14. Keep the wing saddle covered with plan protector.
Bolt the wing onto the fuse with two 1/4-20 nylon bolts.
Note: For ease of installation, the nylon bolts can be cut
to 1-1/4" [31.8mm] long.

A=B

❏ 7. Push a T-pin into the bottom center of former F-11.
Tie a piece of string to the pin. Use the string to check the
distance between the pin and the wing tips. Adjust the
wing so that the distance is equal.

❏ 10. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the tapered hardwood
bolt plate, centered on the TE of the wing and the 3/32"
[2.4mm] balsa sheet.

- 34 -

❏ 15. Place a leftover piece of 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood
against the front of former F-6D. Lightly sand the bottom
edge of the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood former W-6E to

match the angle of the wing saddle. Carefully glue former
W-6E to the top center wing sheeting. Do not glue it to the
1/16" [1.6mm] spacer. After the CA has cured, remove the
1/16" spacer. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood
former F-3C, to the LE of the wing, 1/32" (.8mm] aft of
former F-3B. Be careful to not glue the wing to the fuse.
After placing a straightedge along the notch in each
former, align and glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood
former F-4C, 5-7/8" [149.2mm] back from F-3C and the
die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood former F-5C, 6-1/4"
[158.8mm] aft of F-4C.

❏ 18. Cut a 1/2" [12.7mm] access hole in the belly pan
sheeting for the wing bolt. Loosen the wing bolt 3 or 4
turns and glue a length of cardboard tube into the access
hole, but do not glue it to the bolt. Trim the tube close to
the sheeting with a knife and sand the tube flush with the
belly pan sheeting.

❏ 19. Repeat step 18 for the other half of the belly

❏ 20. Sand the center top TE sheet flush with the sides of

the fuse.

FINISH THE WING

INSTALL THE OIL COOLERS

❏ 1. Cut out the vacuum formed oil coolers along the cut
lines and use a sanding bar to true the edges. Sand the
entire surface of the oil coolers, inside and out, with 320­grit sand paper to remove the shine from the plastic. This
will allow the paint and glue to adhere better. Wash the oil
coolers with soap and water and dry them thoroughly.

❏ 16. Glue a 1/4" [6.4mm] balsa square stringer between
F-3C and F-6E.

❏ 17. From four 1/8" x 3" x 24" balsa sheets, edge glue
two sheets together to make two 6" x 24" sheets. Use the
belly-pan template on the plan to cut out two belly pan
sheets. Fit and glue one of the sheets in place as shown.

❏ 2. Place the oil coolers in position on the wing and trace
their location. Carefully cut away balsa from under the oil
coolers until they fit flush onto the wing. You will need to
remove a fair amount of wood.

❏ 21. Make two triangles from 1/8" [3.2mm] leftover balsa
and glue them in place at the wing TE. Sand the triangles
flush with the fuse sides.

❏ 3. Use epoxy to glue the oil coolers to the wing. After
the epoxy cures, shape the surrounding area to blend into
the oil coolers. Lightweight balsa filler or two part auto
body filler may be used to fill any gaps.

- 35 -

been die-cut for the wheel well and require that you finish
cutting them. The full size Corsair did not have wheel well
liners. But, if you prefer, liners can be made from 1/16"
[1.6mm] plywood or balsa (not included).

❏ 4. Use leftover 1/2" x 1/2" balsa hinge block material to
fair in the outboard ends of the oil coolers.

RETRACT INSTALLATION

❏ 1. If you plan on glassing and painting the model, you
will probably want to cut out the wheel wells after the wing
is glassed, but before priming. If you use MonoKote® to
cover the model, you should cut out the wheel wells and fit
the retracts at this time.

❏ ❏ 2. Remove the aileron LE from the wing and mark a
centerline on the surface.

❏ 3. Fit the retracts in the wing and note the location of
the air line nipples on the air cylinder. Two 5/32" [4mm]
holes will need to be drilled through the main center spar
and the plywood rib R-2 to allow the air line to be routed
to the center of the wing.

❏ 4. Repeat the process to cut the retract opening in the
other half of the wing.

BUILD THE AILERONS

❏ ❏ 3. Position a die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa aileron base
over the aileron plan and mark the “rib" locations on both
sides of the aileron base.

❏ 2. When cutting out the wheel wells, start with a small
hole in the center of the cutout area and gradually expand
the opening. Trial fit the retracts trimming the wing skin as
necessary. If you are installing Robart Corsair retracts, a
notch will need to be cut in the main spar to clear the
retract locking mechanism and the strut retainer. A
Dremel® MultiPro™ with a drum sander works great for
making smooth notches. The two ribs in the opening have

❏ ❏ 1. Cut a 15-3/4" [400mm] long aileron LE from a 1/2"
x 1-1/4" x 30" balsa stick. The remaining stick will be used
to make the other aileron LE. Tack glue the LE in position
on the TE of the wing. Use a sanding bar to shape the LE
to match the wing.

- 36 -

❏ ❏ 4. Glue the aileron base, centered, to the aileron LE.
Make sure the aileron base is perpendicular to the aileron LE.

❏ ❏ 5. Cut aileron “ribs” from the 1/8" x 1/2" x 30" balsa
sticks. Glue the ribs to the aileron base at the previously
marked rib locations.

❏ ❏ 6. From the 1/2" x 1/2" [12.7mm x 12.7mm] balsa
stick, cut 3/4" [19mm ) long hinge point backups. Glue the
backups in position as shown on the plan.

❏ ❏ 10. Insert the hinge points in the TE of the wing and
test fit the aileron on the wing, adjusting the hinge point
holes as necessary.

❏ ❏ 11. Sand the aileron LE to a “V” shape using the
cross-section on the plans as a guide.

❏ ❏ 12. Use a #11 knife to enlarge the opening of the
hinge points holes slightly to provide clearance for the
hinge pivot. Return to step 1 and build the other aileron.

❏ ❏ 14. Position the aileron servo on the hatch so that the
servo arm is centered in the hatch opening. Drill several
1/16" [1.6mm] holes approximately 3/16" [4.8mm] deep
into one end of the 5/16" x 3/4" x 7/8" basswood servo
mounting blocks. Roughen the servo hatch where the
mounting block will be attached. Apply 30-minute epoxy to
the end of the mounting blocks, making sure to pack
epoxy into the 1/16" [1.6mm] holes. Clamp the blocks to
the hatch until the epoxy cures.

❏ ❏ 15. After the epoxy has cured, drill a 1/16" [1.6mm]
pilot hole through the hatch into the center of each servo
mounting block. Countersink the holes to accept a #2 x
3/8" flat head sheet metal screw. We have found that a
Dremel #178 high speed cutter in a drill makes perfect
countersunk holes. Secure each block to the hatch with a
#2 x 3/8" flat head sheet metal screw.

❏ ❏ 16. Insert a 1/32" (.8mm] or 1/16" [1.6mm] temporary
shim between the servo and the plywood hatch. Drill 1/16"
[1.6mm] pilot holes and mount the servo to the mounting
blocks using the servo screws supplied with the radio
system. Remove the shim.

❏ ❏ 7. Refer to the photo and the cross-section on the plan
to obtain the shape of the aileron. Use a razor plane and
sanding bar to “rough in” the shape of the aileron. Final
shaping will be done after the aileron is attached to the wing.

❏ ❏ 8. Hold the aileron in position against the TE of the
wing. Mark the hinge locations on the TE of the wing and
the LE of the aileron.

❏ ❏ 9. If you are using Robart Super Hinge Points, drill
3/16" [4.8mm] holes, centered on the TE of the wing and
LE of the aileron at each hinge location.

❏ ❏ 13. Trace the outline of the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm]
plywood aileron servo hatch accurately onto the wing
sheeting over its location. The hatch should be centered
on the hatch rails and between ribs R-4T and R-5T.
Carefully cut out the bay and fit the hatch into place.

- 37 -

❏ ❏ 17. Tape the aileron servo hatch in position and drill
1/16" [1.6mm] pilot holes at the punch marks on the hatch
and into the hatch rails. Remove the hatch and
countersink the holes in the hatch. Secure the hatch to the
hatch rails with #2 x 3/8" flat head sheet metal screws.

❏ ❏ 22. Cut a recess for the control horn plate on the
other side of the aileron.

❏ ❏ 23. Use epoxy to glue the control horn plates to the
ailerons.

❏ ❏ 24. Thread a 4-40 nut onto a 4-40 x 12" [4-40 x

304.8mm] threaded pushrod. Slide a silicone clevis
retainer onto the rod followed by a 4-40 threaded metal
clevis screwed on at least 14 turns.

BUILD THE OUTBOARD FLAPS

❏ ❏ 1. From a 1/2" x 15/16" x 18" balsa stick, cut a 9"
[228.6mm] long outboard flap LE. Save the remaining
piece for the inboard flap.

8-7/8" [225.4mm]

3" [76.2mm]

❏ ❏ 18. Reinstall the aileron on the wing. Place a
straightedge against the servo arm, parallel with the slot
in the servo hatch and mark the control horn location on
the LE of the aileron.

❏ ❏ 19. From the 1/2" x 1/2" [12.7mm x 12.7mm] balsa
stick, glue a LE doubler at the control horn location.
Remove the aileron and glue a LE doubler to the other
side of the aileron, at the same location. Trim and sand
the blocks flush with the aileron ribs.

❏ ❏ 20. Center the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood control
horn plate on the mark, flush with the edge of the LE

taper. Mark the outline of the plate on the aileron.

9-3/8" [238.1mm]

❏ ❏ 2. From two 3/32" x 3" x 18" balsa sheets, cut one

outboard flap skin from each sheet. Save the remaining
pieces for the inboard flap.

❏ ❏ 25. Attach the metal clevis at the second hole from
the bottom on a heavy-duty nylon control horn. With the
pushrod aligned with the servo arm, position the control
horn on the aileron control horn plate so that the clevis
holes are aligned with the LE of the aileron. Mark the
control horn mounting holes on the control horn plate. Drill
a 1/8" hole through the aileron at each mark. Attach the
control horn to the aileron with four 4-40 x 1-1/4"
machine screws and a control horn backplate.

❏ ❏ 3. Position the flap skin over the outboard flap plan,
align the skin with the TE of the flap and mark the rib
locations on the skin. Draw a line 3/16" [4.8mm] from the
aft edge of the flap skin.

❏ ❏ 21. Cut a 1/8" deep recess for the control horn plate.
The plate must fit flush with the top of the ribs and LE.

❏ ❏ 26. Attach a solder clevis to the outermost hole in
the servo arm. Center the servo arm and the aileron. Cut
the pushrod to the appropriate length. Remove the
pushrod and solder clevis from the wing and use silver
solder to solder the clevis onto the end of the pushrod.
Slide a silicone retainer over the solder clevis and reinstall
the pushrod on the servo arm and control horn.

❏ 27. Return to step 13 and install the other aileron servo.

- 38 -

❏ ❏ 4. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa flap ribs in
position, perpendicular to the flap skin aligning the aft edge
of the ribs with the line at the aft edge of the flap skin.

Remove

❏ ❏ 5. Use a sanding bar to bevel the edge of the
outboard flap LE so that it fits tightly against the forward
edge of the ribs and flap skin. The LE will hang over the
forward edge of the flap skin. When satisfied with the fit,
glue it in position.

❏ ❏ 10. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood flap ends
to the ends of the outboard flaps, aligning the front of the
plywood flap end and the LE. The flap end with the two
punch marks goes on the inboard end. Use a leftover
piece of 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa to fill in the corner between
the LE and the flap skin.

❏ ❏ 11. Use a sanding bar to sand the LE and flap skins
flush with the plywood flap ends.

the previously marked hinge locations. These holes
should angle slightly toward the center of the wing.
See the flap detail on the wing plan.

❏ ❏ 14. With the ailerons temporarily mounted on the
wing, tack glue a leftover piece of 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood
to the inboard end of the aileron.

❏ ❏ 15. Hold the outboard flap against the wing and the
1/16" [1.6mm] spacer on the aileron. Mark the hinge
locations on the flap. Drill 3/16" [4.8mm] holes in the LE of
the flaps in the same manner as the wing. Remove the
1/16" spacer and trial fit the flap on the wing making any
adjustments as necessary. As the flap moves down make
sure the hinges do not pull out. If they do, increase the
radius on the bottom of the flap LE.

❏ 16. Return to step 1 of Build The Outboard Flaps and
build the other outboard flap.

❏ ❏ 6. Use a razor plane and sanding bar to bevel the LE
and the flap skin to the same angle as the ribs.

❏ ❏ 7. From the 1/2" x 1/2" [12.7mm x 12.7mm] balsa
stick, cut 3/4" [19mm] long hinge point backups and glue
them to the back of the LE and the flap skin.

❏ ❏ 8. Glue the second balsa flap skin to the top of the
LE, ribs and bottom flap skin.

❏ ❏ 9. Sand the LE and flap skins flush with the end ribs.

❏ ❏ 12. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole through the flap end, at

each punch mark. Use a hobby knife to finish making the slot.

❏ ❏ 13. If you are installing Robart hinge points, drill 3/16"
[4.8mm] holes into the wing TE approximately 1/4"
[6.4mm] above the bottom of the bottom wing sheeting at

- 39 -

BUILD THE INBOARD FLAPS

❏ ❏ 1. From the remaining 1/2" x 15/16" balsa stick, cut a
6-7/8" [174.6mm] long inboard flap LE.

❏ ❏ 2. Sand one end of the stick to match the contour of
the belly pan at the TE of the wing.

6-1/4" [158.8mm]

3" [76.2mm]

6-1/2" [165.1mm]

❏ ❏ 3. From one of the remaining 3/32" x 3" balsa sheets,
cut in step 2 of Build The Outboard Flaps, make a top
inboard flap skin as shown.

❏ ❏ 4. Position the flap skin over the inboard flap plan,
align the skin with the TE of the flap and mark the rib
locations on the skin. Draw a line 3/16" [4.8mm] from the
aft edge of the flap skin.

❏ ❏ 6. Use a sanding bar to bevel the short edge of the
inboard LE so that it fits tightly against the forward edge of
the ribs and flap skin. The LE will hang over the forward edge
of the flap skin. When satisfied with the fit, glue it in position.

❏ ❏ 7. Glue the inner rib to the flap skin and flush with the LE.

❏ ❏ 8. Use a razor plane and sanding bar to bevel the LE

and the TE of the flap skin to the same angle as the ribs.

❏ ❏ 12. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood flap ends
to the ends of the inboard flap, aligning the front of the
plywood flap end and the LE. The flap end with the two
punch marks goes on the outboard end of the flap with
the larger radius LE on the flap end toward the bottom of
the flap. Use a leftover piece of 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa to fill
in the corner between the LE and the flap skin.

❏ ❏ 13. Use a sanding bar to sand the LE and flap skins
flush with the plywood flap ends.

❏ ❏ 14. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole through the flap end, at
each punch mark. Use a hobby knife to finish making the
slot.

❏ ❏ 15. If you will be installing Robart Hinge Points, drill
3/16" [4.8mm] holes into the wing TE about 1/4" [6.4mm]
above the bottom of the bottom wing sheeting at the
previously marked hinge locations. These holes should
angle slightly toward the center of the wing. (See step 13
of previous section.)

❏ ❏ 5. Glue the three outer die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa
flap ribs in position, perpendicular to the flap skin. Align
the aft edge of the ribs with the line at the aft edge of the
flap skin.

❏ ❏ 9. From the 1/2" x 1/2" balsa stick, cut 3/4" [19mm]
long hinge point backups and glue them in position on the
back of the LE. Sand the hinge point backups flush with
the LE and top of the ribs.

❏ ❏ 10. Glue the remaining balsa flap skin to the LE, ribs
and top flap skin.

❏ ❏ 11. Sand the LE and flap skins flush with the end ribs.

- 40 -

❏ ❏ 16. Hold the inboard flap against the wing, so that it is
spaced approximately 1/16" [1.6mm] away from the belly
pan. Mark the hinge locations on the flap. Drill 3/16"
[4.8mm] holes in the LE of the flap in the same manner as
the wing. Trial fit the flap on the wing making any
adjustments as necessary. As the flap moves down make
sure the hinges do not pull out. If they do, increase the
radius on the bottom of the LE of the flap.

❏ 17. Return to step 1 of Build The Inboard Flaps and
build the other inboard flap.

BUILD THE MIDDLE FLAPS

❏ ❏ 1. Glue two of the die-cut 1/4" [6.4mm] balsa middle
flap LE’s together to make a 1/2" [12.7mm] thick flap LE.

❏ ❏ 4. Position the middle flap LE over the plan and mark
the rib locations.

❏ ❏ 5. Place a piece of wax paper or Plan Protector over
the plywood flap ends on the inboard and outboard flaps.
Tack glue the LE between the inboard and outboard flap
and glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa flap ribs to the LE.

❏ ❏ 7. From the 1/2" x 1/2" balsa stick, cut 3/4" [19mm]
long hinge point backups and flap torque rod blocks. Glue
the blocks on the back of the LE, end ribs and bottom skin.
Sand the flap torque rod blocks flush with the end ribs.

❏ ❏ 8. Make a top middle flap skin from the remaining
3/32" x 3" balsa sheet. Again notice the fore and aft grain
direction. Glue the skin to the middle flap frame.

❏ ❏ 9. Sand the top and bottom flap skin flush with the LE
and both end ribs.

❏ ❏ 2. Tack glue a leftover piece of 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood
and a 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood flap end to the inboard end of
the outboard flap and the outboard end of the inboard flap.

❏ ❏ 3. Sand the ends of the middle flap LE so that it fits
between the inboard and outboard flaps. Also, sand the
flap LE to match the sweep of the wing TE and the taper
of the wing top and bottom.

❏ ❏ 6. Make a bottom middle flap skin from a 3/32" x 3"
x 30" balsa sheet. Note the fore and aft grain direction.
Taper the aft edge of the skin to match the angle of the
flap ribs. Glue the skin to the middle flap frame.

- 41 -

❏ ❏ 10. Break loose the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood flap
ends from the inboard and outboard flaps. Drill a 3/32"
[2.4mm] hole through the flap end ribs at the forward
punch marks only. Glue the plywood flap ends to the ends
of the middle flap, aligning the front of the plywood flap
end and the LE. The larger radius LE on the flap end goes
toward the bottom of the flap.

INSTALL THE FLAP CONTROLS

outline of the hatch onto the wing skin and carefully cut
out the bay, fitting the hatch into place.

❏ ❏ 11. Use a sanding bar to sand the LE and flap skins
flush with the plywood flap ends.

❏ ❏ 12. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole through the flap end
ribs and flap torque rod blocks using the previously drilled
holes as a guide.

❏ ❏ 13. Install the hinges in the middle flap and wing as
previously done with the inboard and outboard flaps.

❏ ❏ 14. Temporarily install the middle flap on the wing.
Rotate the middle flap down noting where the flap LE
interferes with the wing TE ( between the hinges). The flap
LE will need to be rounded more in this area to clear the TE.

❏ ❏ 15. With all three flaps temporarily installed tightly
against the TE of the wing, sand the TE of the flaps so
that they are aligned. The middle flap will be slightly
curved at the TE.

❏ 16. Return to step 1 of Build The Middle Flaps and
build the other middle flap.

❏ ❏ 1. Cut 4" [101.6mm] from the non-threaded end of
two 4-40 x 12" [304.8mm] threaded pushrods. Cut both
4" [101.6mm] pushrods in half. Temporarily install a 2"
[50.8mm] flap torque rod in each end of the middle flap.
The rods should protrude out approximately 1" [25.4mm]
at both ends of the flap.

❏ ❏ 2. Assemble all three flaps with the flap torque rods
inserted into the slots of the inboard and outboard flap
slots. Temporarily install the assembly on the wing. Slowly
lower the flaps, checking that the flaps do not pull away
from the TE of the wing. If they do, you may need to
increase the radius on the LE of the flaps or enlarge the
slot in the inboard and outboard flaps.

❏ ❏ 3. Position the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood flap
servo hatch in position on the bottom wing skin. Trace the

- 42 -

❏ ❏ 4. Position the flap servo on the hatch so that the
bottom of the servo is 1/4" [6.4mm] from the edge of the
hatch. Drill several 1/16" [1.6mm] holes approximately
3/16" [4.8mm] deep into one end of the 5/16" x 3/4" x 7/8"
basswood servo mounting blocks. Roughen the servo
hatch where the mounting block will be attached. Apply
30-minute epoxy to the end of the mounting blocks,
making sure to pack epoxy into the 1/16" [1.6mm] holes.
Clamp the blocks to the hatch until the epoxy cures.

Important: Since both flap servo arms must move in the
same direction, when assembling the second flap servo
hatch, make sure the servo is mounted on the same side
of the hatch as the first one.

❏ ❏ 5. After the epoxy cures, drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] pilot
hole through the hatch into the center of each servo
mounting block. Countersink the holes in the flap servo
hatch. Secure each block to the hatch with #2 x 3/8" flat

head sheet metal screws.

❏ ❏ 6. Insert a 1/32" (.8mm] or 1/16" [1.6mm] temporary
shim between the servo and the plywood hatch. Drill 1/16"
[1.6mm] pilot holes and mount the servo to the mounting
blocks. Remove the shim and mark the top of the hatch in
line with the servo arm.

❏ ❏ 7. Tape the flap servo hatch in position and drill 1/16"
[1.6mm] pilot holes in each corner of the hatch and into
the hatch rails. Remove the hatch and countersink the
holes in the hatch for #2 x 3/8" flat head sheet metal
screws. Secure the hatch to the hatch rails with #2 x 3/8"
flat head sheet metal screws.

❏ ❏ 8. Position a straightedge along the mark on the top of
the flap servo hatch. Mark the TE of the wing at the location
for the flap pushrod exit. Note: One of the pushrods will
need to be angled slightly to avoid the flap hinge.

❏ ❏ 9. Cut a 3/8" x 3/4" rectangle in the TE of the wing at
the mark.

❏ ❏ 10. Reinstall the inboard flap and mark on the LE of
the flap the location of the cut-out.

flap servo so that the arm is in the forward position and
mark the servo arm location on the bottom of the wing.

❏ ❏ 12. Cut a slot 1/4" [6.4mm] from the top of the flap, at
the mark made in step 10 on the inboard flap LE. Insert
the flap arm into the slot so that approximately 3/8"
[9.5mm] protrudes from the LE. Do not glue it in. It will be
glued in after the flaps are covered.

❏ ❏ 16. With the flap in the up position, mark the flap
pushrod at the servo arm mark made in step 15. Make a
90 degree bend at the mark and cut the pushrod 3/8"
[9.5mm] past the bend. Enlarge the hole in the servo arm
to 3/32" [2.4mm], insert the flap pushrod through the
servo arm and secure it with a nylon Faslink pushrod
connector.

❏ 17. Return to step 2 of Install The Flap Controls and

finish the other flap.
❏ ❏ 13. Thread a 4-40 nut onto a 4-40 x 8" pushrod (4"
of the pushrod was cut off in step 1). Slide a silicone
retainer over the pushrod, followed by a 4-40 metal clevis.
Thread the clevis onto the pushrod 14 turns. Tighten the
4-40 nut against the clevis. Attach the clevis to the flap
arm and slide the silicone retainer over the clevis.

❏ ❏ 14. Remove the flap servo hatch and reinstall the
flaps on the wing. Operate the flaps by moving the flap
pushrod from inside the servo compartment. Make sure
the flap arm does not bind on the TE of the wing.

❏ ❏ 11. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the punch mark
on the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood flap arm.

❏ ❏ 15. Plug the flap servo into the receive and switch the
radio system on. Adjust the flap control on your transmitter
to the flap up position. Install the flap servo arm on the

- 43 -

FINISH THE FUSELAGE

MOUNT THE STABILIZER

❏ 1. Sand the LE of the stab so that the TE of the stab is
flush with the aft edge of former F-10.

1-1/16"

[27.0mm]

❏ 4. Thread a nylon torque rod horn onto each elevator
torque rod so that the center of the torque rod horn is
1-1/16" from the center of the bend. It’s important that

both horns are the same distance from the center of
the bend.

❏ 5. Apply a small amount of petroleum jelly to the torque
rods where they enter the guides to prevent the glue from
getting inside and “locking up” the guides. Use 6-minute
epoxy to glue the elevator torque rod guides centered on
the stab TE.

❏ 6. Position the stab on the stab saddle and trim a notch
in the aft end of the saddle to allow the torque rods to
pivot freely.

❏ 8. Drill a 7/64" [2.8mm] pilot hole through the center of the

stab and stab saddle. Install a 3/4" flat washer on the #8 x

1" sheet metal screw. Apply 6-minute epoxy to the threads

of the screw and thread it into the hole in the stab and stab

saddle. Do not overtighten the screw crushing the stab skin.

❏ 2. Use the stab plan to locate the elevator torque rod
positions on the TE of the stab. Mark the TE at the bend in
the torque rods.

❏ 3. Cut a notch in the stab TE, at the marks, to allow the
torque rods to pivot freely.

❏ 7. Install the wing on the fuse. Check the alignment of
the stab with the wing from the front and rear of the
model. If the stab tips are not equidistant above the wing,
carefully sand the high side of the stab saddle until the
stab and wing are parallel. Use the “pin and string”
technique, with the pin centered on the top edge of the
firewall, to align the stab with the fuse. When satisfied with
the fit, use 30-minute epoxy to glue the stab to the stab
saddle. Check the alignment several times while the epoxy
is curing to make sure nothing moves out of alignment.

- 44 -

❏ 9. Check the fit and alignment of the fin and adjust if

necessary (a 90° triangle placed on the stab will help you

detect any fin tilt). Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the fin to

the fuse and the rudder torque rod tube, centered on the

TE of the fin.

❏ 10. Install the high torque elevator servos in the radio

tray. Connect the servos to the receiver, switch on the radio

system and center the servo arms. Thread 4-40 metal
clevises 14 turns onto two 4-40 x 48" [121.9cm] threaded
pushrods. Insert the pushrods into the elevator outer
pushrod tubes and connect the clevises to the servo arms
on the elevator servos.

❏ 11. Position the elevator torque rods so that the
unthreaded arm is aligned with the centerline of the stab.
Mark the elevator pushrods at the clevis attachment hole
in the torque rod horns. Remove the elevator pushrods
from the fuse.

FINISH THE FUSE AFT END

❏ 1. Sand the side sheeting flush with the aft edge of
former F-12. Trim the jig tab from the bottom of former
F-12. Taper the fuse side sheeting between F-11 and
F-12 as shown on the fuse plan. Note that filler pieces are
made from a 3/8" x 1/2" leftover balsa stick, glued to the
side sheeting and sanded to a taper.

❏ 4. From the 1/4" x 1" x 24" balsa stick make forward

and aft wedges. Note the clearance holes in the aft

wedges for the elevator torque rods. Glue the wedges in

position. Use masking tape to protect the stab while you

trim and sand the wedges to shape. Sand the top of the

wedges flush fore and aft with each other.
❏ 2. Fit the 3/8" x 2" x 6" balsa lower aft filler blocks

between formers F-10 and F-11. Sand an angle on the top
of the blocks to match the aft end of the fuse.

❏ 12. Position a 4-40 solder clevis next to the elevator
pushrods with the clevis pin aligned with the mark on the
pushrods. Cut the pushrods at the location shown.

❏ 13. Use silver solder to solder the solder clevis onto the
end of the elevator pushrods.

❏ 14. Slide a silicone retainer over the solder clevises.
Insert the elevator pushrods into the elevator outer pushrod
tubes from the aft end of the fuse. Attach the solder clevis
to the elevator torque rod horns and slide the silicone
retainer over the clevis. Remove the elevator servos.

❏ 3. Sand the front of the 1/2" x 3" x 12" balsa aft bottom
fuse block so that it fits tight against F-10. Glue the

bottom block to the formers and the filler blocks. Use a
razor plane and a bar sander to shape the block.

- 45 -

❏ 5. Fit the 9/16" x 2" x 12" balsa upper aft fuse block.

Glue it in place. Place a several pieces of masking tape on

the stab to protect it while rough shaping the sides of the

block to a taper. Do not round the corners until after the

rudder fillet block is installed.

❏ 6. Move the rudder torque rod through its range of
motion. Make sure it is at an elevation where it is not
binding or striking a former. Position the rudder on the fin
and mark the location on the LE of the rudder where the
rudder torque rod will be inserted.

❏ 7. Drill a 5/32" [4mm] hole into the rudder perpendicular
to the LE, at the mark for the torque rod. Make a slot in
the rudder LE large enough to clear the torque rod and
bearing tube, from the 5/32" [4mm] hole to the bottom of
the rudder.

❏ 8. Refer to the fuse plan to obtain a starting point for
shaping the 1-1/4" x 1-1/2" x 8" balsa rudder fillet block.
Shape the rudder fillet block by trial fitting it between the
rudder and the fuse. Mark the radius on the side of the
block by extending a line from the bottom of the rudder.
When the shape is close, glue the fillet block in place on
the fuse. Use the preceding photos and the plan to assist
you in obtaining the final shape of the fillet block.

❏ 9. Sand the end of the fuse flat. Glue the 1-1/4" x 2" x
2-3/4" balsa aft tip block to the end of the fuse. Carve
and sand to shape.

❏ 10. Position the elevators on the stab and mark the

torque rod locations on the elevator. Drill a 5/32" [4mm]

hole into the elevators at both marks, to accept the torque

rods. Make a slot in the LE of the elevators to clear the

torque rod and bearing tube.

❏ 11. Use leftover balsa and balsa filler to fill the gap

between the stab LE and the fuse sides. After the balsa

filler dries, sand the filler flush with the fuse sides.

- 46 -

FIT THE RETRACTABLE TAILGEAR

❏ 1. Use the fuse plan to locate the tail gear opening. Start
by cutting a small hole in the bottom of the fuse, gradually
increasing its size while test fitting the retract. You will
need to cut the bottom stringer and former F-9 to allow the
retract to fit.

INSTALL THE ENGINE

The following instructions are for mounting the US
Engines 41cc on the Great Planes Isolation Mount. If you
are installing a different engine and engine mount, follow
the instructions included with the engine and engine
mount. Note: You previously prepared the firewall for
engine installation, before gluing the firewall on the fuse.

❏ 1. Position the engine on the plywood isolation plate,
checking that the mounting holes in the engine align with
the hole locations on the isolation plate. Approximately
5/8" [15.9mm] will need to be trimmed from the bottom of
the plywood plate to provide muffler clearance.

❏ 2. Drill a 17/64" [6.7mm] clearance hole at each mark.
Mount the engine to the isolation plate with four 1/4-20 x
3/4" [1/4-20 x 19mm] bolts and 1/4" [6.4mm] flat washers
(not included).

❏ 4. On the US Engines 41, we moved the throttle connector

arm to the other arm on the bellcrank. This will allow the

throttle pushrod to exit the firewall in a better location.

❏ 5. Mount the throttle servo in the forward opening in the

servo tray.

❏ 2. Center the tail gear retract in the opening. Mark the
retract braces for the mounting screws. If you are installing
the Robart tail gear retract, drill 7/64" pilot holes through
the retract braces. Attach the retracts to the braces with
#6 x 5/8" sheet metal screws (not included).

❏ 3. Remove the retract and apply several drops of thin
CA to each screw hole to harden the wood.

Important: The throttle linkage is not included in the Giant

Corsair Kit allowing you to use the method you prefer. We

recommend that whatever method you use, do not use a

metal pushrod or cable from the engine to the servo. This

may allow electrical interference from the engine to be

transferred to the radio system. The following method is

one possible throttle pushrod system that works very well.

❏ 3. Mount the isolation plate to the firewall with the rubber
grommets and bolts included with the isolation mount.

- 47 -

❏ 6. Install a 2-56 pivot ball on the throttle bellcrank. Snap
a ball end onto the pivot ball. Mark the isolation plate in
line with the ball end and drill a 3/16" [4.8mm] hole at the
mark through the plate and firewall. If you don’t have a
long 3/16" [4.8mm] drill bit you may need to remove the
engine to drill the holes.

❏ 7. Roughen a 3/16" [4.8mm] outer pushrod tube with
320 grit sandpaper. Glue the outer pushrod tube in the
3/16" hole in the firewall, flush with the front of the firewall.
Cut off the outer pushrod tube approximately 2" [50.8mm]
from the servo arm.

❏ 10. Screw a 2-56 x 12" [2-56 x 304.8mm] metal pushrod
14 turns into the end of the nylon inner pushrod. Slide the
inner pushrod into the outer pushrod tube. Attach a
Screw-Lock Pushrod Connector to the throttle servo arm
and slide the 2-56 metal pushrod through the pushrod
connector. Switch on the radio system and adjust the
throttle linkage so that the carburetor opens and closes
completely. Make an outer pushrod tube support from
leftover balsa and glue it to the outer pushrod tube and
fuse, close to the end of the outer tube.

❏ 12. Drill a clearance hole in the isolation plate and two

holes in the firewall for the fuel line to pass through.

Assemble your fuel tank. If you are using a gas powered

engine, be sure to use a fuel tank that is compatible with

gasoline. Wrap the fuel tank in foam rubber and insert it in

the front of the fuse. Mark the location for the die-cut 1/8"

[3.2mm] plywood fuel tank floor (TF). Remove the fuel

tank and glue the floor in place. Use several leftover

pieces of balsa to reinforce the joint between the fuel tank

floor and the fuse.

ASSEMBLE THE COWL

❏ 8. Screw a 2-56 x 1" [2-56 x 25.4mm] threaded stud 1/2"
[12.7mm] into one end of the inner nylon pushrod. Screw a
nylon ball end 14 turns onto the 2-56 threaded stud. Slide
the inner pushrod into the outer pushrod tube and connect
the ball end to the pivot ball on the throttle bellcrank.

❏ 9. Mark the inner pushrod 2" [50.8mm] from the throttle
servo arm. Remove the inner pushrod and cut the
pushrod 1" [25.4mm] shorter than the mark.

❏ 11. Make a fuel fill valve mount from leftover 1/8"
[3.2mm] plywood. Install a fuel fill valve in the fuel fill valve
mount. If you are using a gas powered engine, be sure to
use a fuel fill valve designed for gasoline. Glue the mount
to F-1 so that the front of the valve is flush with the side of
the fuse.

- 48 -

❏ 1. Trim the front, back and sides of the plastic cowl

along the molded cut lines. You can use a hobby knife to

carefully score along the cut lines and flex the plastic until

it breaks free, or use a small scissors to cut along the

lines. Hobbico® Curved Tip Canopy Scissors (HCAR0667)

work extremely well for this. Drill a 3/16" [4.8mm] mounting

hole at each dimple on the back cowl mounting lip.

❏ 2. Use your bar sander to carefully true the edge of the
overlaps so when you glue them together the seam will be
as small and straight as possible. Sand all four pieces,
inside and out, with 320-grit sandpaper. Wash the cowl
pieces with soap and water and dry thoroughly.

❏ 6. Glue fiberglass behind the mounting holes and along
the seams on the inside of the cowl. For maximum
protection against stress cracks, you may apply 3/4oz.
fiberglass cloth to the entire inside surface of the cowl.
Adhere the cloth with thin CA or 30-minute epoxy thinned
with isopropyl alcohol.

❏ 7. Position the cowl on the fuse so that the front of the
drive washer is forward of the cowl front and centered in the
opening. Mount a prop on the engine and position the cowl
approximately 1/8" [3.2mm] to 1/4" [6.4mm] behind the prop.
The mounting lip on the cowl back may need to be trimmed
slightly if an engine other than a US Engines 41 is used.

❏ 10. Reposition the cowl on the fuse and check that the

drive washer is centered in the front of the cowl, the cowl

is centered on the fuse and that their is enough clearance

between the cowl and prop. You may need to trim the

blocks to allow the cowl to be positioned correctly.

❏ 3. Test fit one of the cowl sides on the cowl back,
making any adjustments as needed. Use thin CA to glue
the cowl side to the cowl back. Note: Do not use CA
accelerator. Use of accelerator on the ABS plastic may
cause cracks and/or prevent paint from adhering.

❏ 4. Test fit the other cowl side on the cowl back. The side
is molded slightly long to allow for trimming. Hold the
second cowl side on with masking tape and check the fit
of the cowl front. Make adjustments as necessary to the
side. When satisfied with the fit, use thin CA to glue the
second cowl side to the cowl back and the first cowl side.

❏ 5. After the CA has cured on the cowl sides, use thin
CA to glue the cowl front on the cowl sides.

❏ 8. Mark and trim the opening for the engine head and
exhaust. Start with a small hole and gradually increase its
size until the cowl fits. A Dremel® MultiPro™ with a drum
sander works great for trimming holes in ABS cowls.

❏ 9. Drill a 7/64" [2.8mm] pilot hole centered in the end of
each of the five 3/4" x 3/4" x 1" hardwood mounting blocks.
Use #8 x 5/8" sheet metal screws to attach the mounting
blocks to the back of the mounting lip on the cowl .

- 49 -

❏ 11. When you are satisfied with the fit of the cowl, stand

the fuse up on its aft end. Apply a mixture of 30-minute

epoxy and milled fiberglass to the aft end of the mounting

blocks and carefully reinstall the cowl on the fuse. The

milled fiberglass will add considerable strength to the joint.

Check that the drive washer is centered in the front of the

cowl and the cowl around the fuse sides. Allow the epoxy

to cure thoroughly before removing the cowl.

❏ 12. Check the opening for the muffler and engine head,

trimming as necessary. Also cut openings for the fuel fill

valve, needle valve and any other accessories you will

need access to through the cowl.

❏ 13. Before painting the cowl, fill the seams and other

imperfections with auto body filler.

❏ 14. After the filler has cured, sand it flush with the

plastic. Wet sand the entire cowl with 400-grit sandpaper

in preparation for primer.

FINISHING

BALANCE THE MODEL LATERALLY

Do not confuse this procedure with “checking the C.G.”
that will be discussed later in the manual.

Now that the model is nearly completed, you should
balance it laterally (side-to-side). An airplane that is
laterally balanced will track better. Here’s how:

❏ 1. Temporarily attach the elevators, rudder, engine,
cowl, landing gear and wing. Lift the model by the
propeller shaft and the bottom of the fuse near the rudder.
This will require an assistant. Do this several times.

❏ 2. The wing that consistently drops indicates the heavy
side. Balance the model by adding weight to the other
wing tip.

SURFACE PREPARATION

❏ If you plan on installing a Top Flite Giant Corsair
Cockpit Kit, now is the best time to cut out the cockpit
floor. Trim out the floor following the instructions included
with the cockpit kit. The cockpit should be installed after
the fuse is covered.

Remove the engine, servos and any other hardware that
may restrict sanding. All edges should be rough sanded
and rounded following the cross-section views on the
plans. Nearly every imperfection in your wood structure
will show through the covering material; therefore, before
covering, you should make a final check of the entire
structure. Fix any “dings” before sanding the entire
structure. Fill all dents, seams, low spots and notches with
HobbyLite™ balsa colored filler.

HOW TO REMOVE MINOR DENTS

Here is an easy method to remove minor dents in wood

where the wood grain has not been broken.

❏ A.

Wet the area of the dent with water.

❏ B.

Carefully rub a hot sealing iron over the dent.

❏ C.

As the wet wood is heated, the wood grain will

swell up.

❏ D.

Allow the wood to dry before sanding smooth.

After the filler has dried, use progressively finer grades of
sandpaper to even and smooth all the edges, seams and
surfaces. Remove all the balsa dust from the model with
compressed air or a vacuum with a brush and a tack cloth.

COVERING

Cover the model with Top Flite® MonoKote® film, using the
suggested covering sequence that follows. Before you
cover the fuselage, first apply 3/8" wide strips of
MonoKote film in the corners where the stab and fin meets
the fuselage. Then, proceed to cover the fin and stab with
pre-cut pieces that meet in the corners and overlap the
3/8" strips. Never cut the covering on the stab and fin after
it has been applied except around the leading and trailing
edges and the tips. Modelers who do this may cut through
the covering and into the stab and fin. This will weaken the
structure to a point where it may fail during flight.

Some modelers prefer to cover the top and bottom of the
ailerons with one strip of MonoKote film. This is done by
covering the bottom first, then wrapping the MonoKote film
up over the leading edge.

We used Top Flite MonoKote Insignia Blue and Dove Gray
to cover our Corsair.

Suggested Covering Sequence

- 50 -

Fuselage and Tail:

1. 3/8" strips at fin and stab as described

2. Dove Gray on aft fuselage bottom

3. Dove Gray on forward fuselage bottom

4. Insignia Blue on fuselage right side

5. Insignia Blue on fuselage left side

6. Insignia Blue on the turtle deck

7. Insignia Blue on the nose

8. Insignia Blue on the fin TE, followed by stab TE

9. Dove Gray on the stab bottom, followed by
Insignia Blue on the top

10. Insignia Blue on the fin right side, followed by the
left side

11. Insignia Blue on the elevator LE and root ends

12. Dove Gray on the elevator bottoms, followed by
Insignia Blue on the top

13. Insignia Blue on the rudder LE, right side
followed by the left side

Wing:

1. Dove Gray on bottom of wing tips

2. Insignia Blue on trailing edges of wing

3. Dove Gray on the bottom right, followed by the
left wing panel

4. Insignia Blue on the top right, followed by the left
wing panel

5. Dove Gray on the bottom and insignia blue on
the top of the ailerons

6. Dove Gray on the bottom and insignia blue on
the top of the flaps

When covering concave surfaces, follow the iron with a
damp cloth, pressing the covering down.

PAINTING

After the model is covered, use fuelproof model paint,
30-minute epoxy thinned with alcohol or finishing resin to
coat areas that may be exposed to raw fuel or exhaust
residue such as the firewall, wing saddle and openings in
the wing for the retracts.

Top Flite LustreKote fuelproof paint is recommended for
painting all ABS plastic parts. At least one coat of
LustreKote primer is highly recommended to fill small
scratches left from sanding as well as small pin holes in
the filler. Wet sand between coats with 400-grit sandpaper
and apply a second coat of primer if necessary.
The oil coolers were painted after the wing was covered.

Trim the MonoKote covering at the edge of the oil coolers.
Apply a thin coat of filler along the edge of the MonoKote
covering. After the filler dries, sand it flush with the
covering. Use masking tape to mask off the area around
the oil coolers. Spray a couple of coats of primer over the
oil cooler and filler. After the primer dries, remove the
masking and sand the primer to blend it into the covering.
Carefully paint the oil cooler and filler with LustreKote
paint. Avoid getting over spray on the rest of the wing.

The light blue on the Corsair, shown on the box, was
painted with a custom mix of Testors paint, applied with an
airbrush. After the paint dried, the decals were applied
and the panel lines were drawn on. The whole airplane
was then painted with mist coats of LustreKote Flat Clear.

Before painting the canopy, use scissors or a hobby knife to
trim along the molded cut lines. True the edges with your
bar sander and 220-grit sandpaper. Use 400-grit sandpaper
to scuff the frame portion of the canopy so the paint will
stick. We recommend painting the canopy frame with Pactra
Formula-U or Chevron Perfect Paint. Use masking tape or
frisket film to cover the portion of the canopy that is not to
be painted. If you are not sure that the paint is compatible
with the clear canopy, test the paint on a leftover piece of
canopy material and allow it to dry overnight.

For painting the pilot, we have discovered that acrylic
water base paints such as the types found at craft stores
work great. The acrylic paints look realistic on the pilots
because they are flat. Best of all, they cleanup with water.

We covered the cockpit floor (if a cockpit kit will not be
installed), sides and backrest with 600-grit sandpaper
glued in place with aliphatic resin glue.

APPLY DECALS

❏ 1. Study the plan and the photos on the box to visualize
where to place the decals.

❏ 2. Thoroughly clean your airplane before applying
decals.

❏ 3. Cut out the individual decals and apply them in the
locations shown on the box.

HINT: To apply decals accurately, use a permanent
marker to put small reference marks on the aircraft
outside the edge of the decal. Peel the decal backing off.
For larger decals, spray the aircraft and the glue side of
the decal with a mixture of soap and water. Carefully
“float” the decal into position. Use a damp paper towel to

squeegee the liquid out from under the decal working
from the middle outward. Remove the marks with
isopropyl alcohol.

FINAL HOOKUPS AND CHECKS

INSTALL THE HINGES

❏ 1. Starting with the elevators and stab, cut the covering
from the hinge holes.

❏ 2. Roughen the elevator torque rods wires with
sandpaper. Clean the torque rod wires with alcohol and a
paper towel to remove any oil residue.

❏ 3. Apply petroleum jelly to the hinge pivots to prevent
epoxy from gluing the hinge joints. Glue the torque rod
wires and hinges in the elevators and stab with 30-minute
epoxy.

❏ 4. Install the ailerons with their hinges. Repeat the
gluing technique described previously and allow the epoxy
to cure.

❏ 5. Install the rudder with it’s hinges. Repeat the gluing
technique described previously and allow the epoxy to
cure.

❏ 6. Use epoxy to glue the 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood flap arm
into each inboard flap LE. Make sure the clevis attachment
holes are equal distance from the LE of both flaps.

❏ 7. Use epoxy to glue the flap torque rods in the flap
center section.

❏ 8. Install the flaps with their hinges. Repeat the gluing
technique and process described previously.

- 51 -

INSTALL THE HARDWARE

❏ 1. Reinstall the fuel tank with foam padding (not
included) as follows: Insert two 12" pieces of fuel tubing
(not included) through the firewall. Connect one of the fuel
tubes to the fuel pick-up fitting and the other to the
overflow or pressure fitting. Insert the fuel tank into the
fuel tank compartment. Secure the tank with leftover sticks
glued to the fuse sides. Connect the fuel tubing from the
fuel pick-up fitting to the fuel fill valve. Route the overflow
line out the bottom of the cowl.

❏ 2. Reinstall the engine mount and engine. Apply thread
lock to the bolts holding the engine to the firewall.

❏ 3. Connect the fuel tubing from the fuel fill valve to the
carburetor. Connect the pressure line to the muffler if
using a glow engine.

❏ 4. Install the receiver switch and plug the receiver
battery into the switch. We recommend at least a 1200
mAh receiver battery be used. Wrap the receiver battery
in foam rubber and secure it under the fuel tank.

❏ 5. Install the servos in the radio tray, aileron servo
compartments and flap servo compartments. Route the
aileron and flap servo wires out of the wing center.
Reinstall the aileron servo horns.

❏ 6. Plug the servos and receiver switch into the receiver
and wrap it in foam rubber. The receiver can be secured to
the servo tray using eye screws and rubber bands (not
included).

❏ 7. Switch the radio system on and adjust the servos to
neutral. Use Y-harnesses to connect together the two
elevator servos, two flap servos, two aileron servos and
the rudder/tail wheel steering servos.

❏ 8. Connect the elevator, rudder, aileron, flap and throttle
pushrods to the servo arms.

❏ 9. If you installed a gas engine, install an on/off switch
on the engine that can be manually turned off from the
outside of the cowl. Also an engine on/off switch must be
installed that can be operated from the transmitter. This
can be activated by a separate switch on the transmitter
or by the engine cut switch, found on some transmitters.

ATTACH THE CANOPY

❏ 1. Before permanently installing the canopy, securely
glue your pilot in place on the cockpit floor, if a full cockpit
will not be installed. For the most security, in addition to
glue, screw the base of the pilot to the cockpit floor with a
#4 sheet metal screw (not included) from the underside of
the cockpit floor. If you are installing a full cockpit kit, now
is the time to install it. Follow the installation instructions
included with the cockpit kit.

COOLING NOTES

Model engines require sufficient cooling to provide reliable
operation, good performance and long life. There are two
problems which often present themselves in scale models
with cowlings: lack of air intake area and lack of air outlet
area. A rough rule in figuring such installations is to allow
twice as much outlet area as intake area.

INSTALL THE RETRACTS

❏ 1. Follow the instructions included with the pull–pull
steering cable system to connect it to the retractable tail
wheel. Route the air retract tubing through the fuse and
attach it to the air cylinder on the tail wheel. Install the
retractable tail wheel in the fuse.

❏ 2. Install the tail wheel steering servo and connect the
pull–pull steering cables to the servo arm.

❏ 3. Make an air valve tray from leftover 1/8" [3.2mm]
plywood. This assembly can be placed in various
locations. On our test models it was placed in front of the
servo tray, beside the fuel tank. The air valve servo can be
mounted to the front of the servo tray and a hard wood
block glued to the plywood fuse crutch. Install the link rod
assembly between the servo and the air valve following
the retract manufacturer’s instructions. Be sure the servo
does not put side loads on the valve. This may cause the
valve to leak.

❏ 4. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for connecting
the air line tubing to the air valve, air tank and retractable
tail wheel.

❏ 5. Install the retracts in the wing and route the air lines
through the holes previously drilled in the center spar and
ribs and out the center of the wing. We connected the air
lines in the wing with T-fittings and quick connectors.

❏ 6. Pressurize the air tank and cycle the retracts several
times to check that the retracts do not hang-up anywhere.

❏ 7. Use a solution of soap and water applied to all the air
line joints to detect air leaks. If the joint is leaking the soap
solution will bubble.

❏ 2. Place the canopy on the fuselage in the location
shown on the plan. Temporarily hold it in position with tape
or rubber bands.

❏ 3. Use a felt-tip pen to accurately trace the canopy
outline onto the MonoKote film covering. Remove the
canopy.

❏ 4. Without cutting into the balsa, use a sharp hobby
knife to carefully cut and remove a strip of covering 1/16"
[1.6mm] wide, approximately 1/32" (.8mm] inside of the
line you made. Wipe away the line with a paper towel
dampened with alcohol.

❏ 5. Reposition the canopy on the fuse and confirm that it
covers the exposed wood. Glue the canopy to the fuse
with a glue formulated for gluing on canopies such as
Pacer “Formula 560” canopy glue. Hold the canopy in
place with masking tape or rubber bands while the glue
dries.

❏ The Corsair model, equipped with a single cylinder
engine, has too much intake area. To work around this
problem, the prototypes were equipped with baffles. A
baffle is used to block intake area where it offers little
benefit and to promote good airflow where it is needed (at
the cylinder head). To enhance the appearance of the
baffle, the Top Flite Corsair Radial Engine can be
mounted on the front of the baffle. The complete assembly
can then be glued in the cowl.

Ample air outlet area must be provided for good cooling.
The bottom of the cowl is a logical place for this since it is
least visible and an opening is needed for the engine
head on the US Engines 41.

- 52 -

Most modern engines in the size range specified provided
more than ample power for the Corsair. It is recommended,
therefore, that you run the engine somewhat rich for the
first flights because the excess fuel running through the
engine provides a cooling effect. If your engine is not
broken in, run a few tanks of fuel through it on the ground
with the cowl removed before flying.

SET THE CONTROL THROWS

4-CHANNEL RADIO SET UP

(STANDARD MODE 2)

RUDDER

MOVES

RIGHT

RIGHT AILERON

MOVES UP

LEFT AILERON

MOVES DOWN

The balance and control throws for the Giant

Note:
Corsair have been extensively tested. This chart indicates
the settings at which the Corsair flies best. Please set up
your model to the specifications listed above. If, after you
become comfortable with your Corsair, you would like to
adjust the throws to suit your tastes, that’s fine. Too much
throw can force the plane into a stall or snap roll, so
remember, “more is not always better.”

NON-FUNCTIONAL LANDING GEAR DOORS

❏ A template is provided on the plans for non-functional
landing gear doors. The doors are cut from 1/8" [3.2mm]
plywood (not included). The mounts are made from
hardwood blocks with a 1/2" [12.7mm] hole drilled through
the center of the block. A 1/16" [1.6mm] pilot hole is drilled
through the block along side the 1/2" [12.7mm] hole. The
blocks are then cut in half. One half of the block is glued to
the doors. In the other half of the blocks enlarge the pilot
holes to 3/32" [2.4mm]. Attach the doors to the landing
gear struts with #2 sheet metal screws. We recommend
that the Corsair not be flown with the landing gear doors
attached. The doors are for static appearance only.

FULL

THROTTLE

The throws are measured at the widest part of the
elevators, rudder, ailerons and flaps. Adjust the position of
the pushrods at the servo horns to control the amount of
throw. You may also use the ATV’s if your transmitter has
them. Set the mechanical linkages so the ATV’s are near
100% for the best servo resolution (smoothest, most
proportional movement).

These are the recommended control surface throws:

ELEVATOR

MOVES DOWN

HIGH RATE LOW RATE

Up and

Down

ELEVATOR

Right

& Left

RUDDER

Up and

Down

AILERONS

Down

FLAPS

Note: If your radio does not have dual rates, set the
control surfaces to move between the high rate and
low rate throws.

3/4"

[19mm]

2-1/2"

[64 mm]

1"

[25 mm]

1-1/2"

[38 mm]

Up and

Down

Right

& Left

Up and

Down

Down

1/2"

[13mm]

2-1/2"

[64 mm]

3/4"

[19 mm]

13°

1-1/2"

[38 mm]

- 53 -

BALANCE YOUR MODEL

NOTE: This section is VERY important and must NOT be

omitted! A model that is not properly balanced will be
unstable and possibly unflyable.

5-3/4" [146mm]

Elevate C.G. Machine

(Fin must not touch table)

❏ 1. The balance point (C.G.) is located 5-3/4" back from
the leading edge of the wing, next to the fuse sides as shown
in the sketch and on the plan. Accurately mark the balance
point on the top of the wing on both sides of the fuselage.
Use thin strips of tape or a felt-tip pen to make the marks.

Hint: Reference the full-size fuse plan to help you locate
the proper balance point. This is the balance point at
which your model should balance for your first flights. After
initial trim flights and when you become more acquainted
with your Corsair, you may wish to experiment by shifting
the balance up to 5/8" forward or backward to change its
flying characteristics. Moving the balance forward may
improve the smoothness and stability, but the model may
then require more speed for takeoff and may become
more difficult to slow for landing. Moving the balance aft
makes the model more agile with a lighter, snappier “feel”
and often improves knife-edge capabilities. In any case,
please start at the location we recommend. Do not at any
time balance your model outside the recommended range.

Note: Because of the large engines that are used on giant
airplanes and the difference in their weights, it is not
uncommon to add 1 lbs to 3 lbs of weight to the nose of
the models.

❏ 2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of
the model installed (ready to fly) and an empty fuel tank,
hold the model upside down with the stabilizer level. The
Great Planes CG Machine™ balancer works great for
balancing the model.

❏ 3. Set the model on the balancer at the balance point. If
the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and you must add
weight* to the nose to balance the model. If the nose
drops, it is “nose heavy” and you must add weight to the
tail to balance the model. (If possible, first attempt to
balance the model by changing the position of the
receiver battery. If you are unable to obtain good balance
by doing so, then it will be necessary to add weight to the
nose or tail to achieve the proper balance point.)

PREFLIGHT

At this time check all connections including servo horn
screws, clevises, servo cords and extensions. Make
sure you have installed the nylon retainer on the Screw­Lock Pushrod Connector and the silicone retainers on
all the clevises.

CHARGE THE BATTERIES

Follow the battery charging procedures in your radio
instruction manual. You should always charge your
transmitter and receiver batteries the night before you
go flying and at other times as recommended by the radio
manufacturer.

BALANCE THE PROPELLER

Carefully balance your propellers before flying. An
unbalanced prop is the single most significant cause of
vibration. Not only may engine mounting screws vibrate
out, possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may also
damage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration may
cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause your
engine to run lean or quit.

FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY

Since you have chosen the Giant Corsair, we assume that
you are an experienced modeler. Therefore, you should
already know about AMA chartered flying fields and other
safe places to fly. If for some reason you are a relatively
inexperienced modeler and have not been informed, we
strongly suggest that the best place to fly is an AMA
chartered club field. Ask the AMA or your local hobby
shop dealer if there is a club in your area and join. Club
fields are set up for R/C flying and that makes your outing
safer and more enjoyable. The AMA address and
telephone number is in the front of this manual. If a club
and flying site are not available, find a large, grassy area
at least 6 miles away from houses, buildings and streets
and any other R/C radio operation like R/C boats and R/C
cars. A schoolyard may look inviting but is too close to
people, power lines and possible radio interference.

GROUND CHECK THE MODEL

Inspect your radio installation and confirm that all the
control surfaces respond correctly to the transmitter
inputs. The engine operation must also be checked by
confirming that the engine idles reliably, transitions
smoothly and rapidly to full power and maintains full
power, indefinitely. The engine must be “broken-in” on the
ground by running it for at least two tanks of fuel. Follow
the engine manufacturer’s recommendations for break-in.
Make sure all screws remain tight, that the hinges are
secure and that the prop is on tight.

RANGE CHECK YOUR RADIO

Note: Nose weight may be easily installed by using a

“spinner weight” or attaching Great Planes (GPMQ4485)
“stick-on” lead weights to the firewall. To securely attach
the weights to the firewall, first determine the amount of
weight required to balance the model. Then, use epoxy to
glue the weights stacked together. Drill a clearance hole
through the stack of weights, apply epoxy to the bottom
weight and attach the stack to the firewall with a sheet
metal screw. Tail weight may be added by using “stick-on”
lead weights. Later, if the balance is O.K., you can glue
the weights inside the retractable tail wheel opening.

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.

- 54 -

Whenever you go to the flying field, check the operational
range of the radio before the first flight of the day. First,
make sure no one else is on your frequency (channel). With
your transmitter on, you should be able to walk at least 100
feet away from the model and still have control. While you
work the controls, have a helper stand by your model and
tell you what the control surfaces are doing. Repeat this
test with the engine running at various speeds with a
helper holding the model. If the control surfaces are not
always responding correctly, do not fly! Find and correct the
problem first. Look for loose servo connections or
corrosion, loose bolts that may cause vibration, a defective
on/off switch, low battery voltage or a defective receiver
battery, a damaged receiver antenna, or a receiver crystal
that may have been damaged from a previous crash.

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)

IMAA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)

Note: Failure to follow these safety precautions may

result in severe injury to yourself and others.

Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke
near the engine or fuel; and remember that the engine
exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide.

Do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
operate engines.

Be sure to use safety glasses when starting or running
engines.

Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand;
the propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.

Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away
from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and
run the engine.

Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt
sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such as
pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.

Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the engine.
Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller. Make certain
the glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not
pop off or otherwise get into the running propeller.

Make all engine adjustments from behind the propeller.

Read and abide by the following Academy of Model
Aeronautics Official Safety Code:

GENERAL

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air
shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been
proven to be airworthy by having been previously
successfully flight tested.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right of way to and avoid flying
in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary an
observer shall be used to supervise flying to avoid having
models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3. Where established, I will abide by the safely rules for
the flying site I use and I will not willfully and deliberately
fly my models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous
manner.

7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my
name and address or AMA number, on or in the model.

9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile or any kind).

RADIO CONTROL

1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment
ground check before the first flight of a new or repaired
model

Definition: For the purpose of the following IMAA Safety
Code, the term Giant Scale shall refer to radio controlled
model aircraft, either scale or non-scale, which have a
wingspan of 80 inches or more for monoplanes and 60
inches or more for multi-winged model aircraft and have a
ramp weight (fueled and ready to fly) of 55 lbs or less.

Section 1.0: SAFETY STANDARD

1.1 Adherence to Code: This safety code is to be strictly

followed.

1.2 The most current AMA Safety Code in effect is to be

observed. However, the competition sections of the code
may be disregarded.

Section 3.0: Safety Check

3.4 Flight Testing: All Giant Scale R/C aircraft are to have

been flight tested and flight trimmed with a minimum of six
flights before the model is allowed to fly at an IMAA
Sanctioned event.

3.5 Proof of Flight: The completing and signing of the

Declaration section of the Safety Inspection form by the
pilot (or owner) shall document as fact that each aircraft
has been successfully flight-tested and proven airworthy
prior to an IMAA event.

Section 5.0: EMERGENCY ENGINE SHUT OFF (kill
switch)

The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after
operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so
fuel will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fire.

To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing off
the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s
recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any other
body part to try to stop the engine. To stop a gasoline
powered engine an on/off switch should be connected to
the engine coil. Do not throw anything into the propeller of
a running engine.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted
by an experienced helper.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the
pit or spectator areas and I will not thereafter fly over pit or
spectator areas, unless beyond my control.

4. I will operate my model using only radio control
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
Communications Commission.

- 55 -

5.1 All magneto spark ignition engines must have a coil

grounding switch on the aircraft to stop the engine. This
will also prevent accidental starting of the engine. This
switch shall be readily available to both pilot and helper.
This switch is to be operated manually and without the
use of the radio system.

5.2 Engines with battery power ignition systems must have a

switch to turn off the power from the battery pack to disable
the engine from firing. This will also prevent accidental
starting of the engine. This switch shall be readily available
to both pilot and helper. This switch shall be operated
manually and without the use of the Radio System.

5.3 There must also be a means to stop the engine from
the transmitter. The most common method is to close the
carburetor throat completely using throttle trim, however,
other methods are acceptable. This requirement applies to
all glow/gas ignition engines regardless of size.

Section 6.0: RADIO REQUIREMENTS

6.1 All transmitters must be FCC type certified.

6.2 FCC Technician or higher-class license required for 6
meter band operation only.

Additional General Recommendations

Servo need to be of rating capable to handle the loads
that the control surfaces impose upon the servos.
Standard servos are not recommended for control
surfaces. Servos should be rated heavy-duty. For flight­critical control functions a minimum of 45 inch/ounces of
torque should be considered. This should be considered a
minimum for smaller aircraft and higher torque servos are
strongly encouraged for larger aircraft. The use of one
servo for each aileron and one for each elevator half is
strongly recommended. Use of duel servos is also
recommended for larger aircraft.

On-board batteries shall be 1000 mAh up to 20 lbs, 1200
mAh to 30 lbs, 1800 mAh to 40 lbs. And 2000mAh over
40 lbs flying weight. The number and size of servos, size
and loads on control surfaces and added features should
be considered as an increase to these minimums.
Batteries should be able to sustain power to the onboard
radio components for a minimum of one hour total flying
time before recharging.

Redundant and fail-safe battery systems are
recommended.

The use of anti-glitch devices for long leads are
recommended.

There is no maximum engine displacement limit, as it is
the position of this body that an underpowered aircraft
presents a greater danger than an overpowered aircraft.
However, the selection of engine size relative to airframe
strength and power loading mandates good discretionary
judgement by the designer and builder. Current AMA

maximums for engine displacement are 6.0 cu. in. for two­stroke and 9.6 cu. in. for four-stroke engines. These
maximums apply only to AMA Sanctions concerning
competition events (such as 511, 512, 515 and 520) and,
as such, the maximums apply. All IMAA (non competition)
events should be sanctioned as Class “C” events, in which
these engine size maximums do not apply.

Generally, it is recommended that no attempt should be
made to fly a radio controlled model aircraft with a
gasoline engine in which the model aircraft weight would
exceed twelve [12) pounds (underpowered) per cubic inch
of engine displacement, or be less than five (5) pounds
(overpowered) per cubic inch of engine displacement.
Example: Using a 3 cu. in. engine, a model would likely be
underpowered at an aircraft weight greater than 36
pounds. With the same engine, an aircraft weighing less
than 15 pounds would likely be overpowered.

Servo arms and wheels should be rated heavy duty. Glass
filled servo arms and control horns are highly
recommended.

Control surface linkages are listed in order of preference:

1. Cable system (pull-pull). A tiller bar is highly
recommended along with necessary bracing.

2. Arrow Shaft, fiberglass or aluminum, 1/4" or 5/16" O.D.
bracing every six (6) to ten [10) inches is highly
recommended.

3. Tube-in-tube (Nyrod). Bracing every few inches is highly
recommended. Inner tube should be totally enclosed in
outer tube.

4. Hardwood dowel, 3/8" O.D. bracing every six (6) to ten
[10) inches is highly recommended.

Hinges should be rated heavy duty and manufactured for
Giant Scale use primarily. Homemade and original design
hinges are acceptable if determined to be adequate for
the intended use.

Clevis (steel, excluding heavy-duty ball links) and
attachment hardware should be heavy duty 4-40 threaded
rod type. 2-56 threaded size rod is acceptable for some
applications (e.g. throttle). Clevis is to have lock nuts and
sleeve or spring keepers.

Propeller tips should be painted or colored in a visible and
contrasting manner so as to increase the visibility of the
propeller tip arc.

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FLYING

The Top Flite Giant Corsair is a great-flying scale warbird
that flies smoothly and predictably. The Corsair does not,
however, possess the self-recovery characteristics of a
primary R/C trainer and should only be flown by
experienced RC Pilots.

CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES):
If, while flying, you notice any unusual sounds, such as a
low-pitched "buzz," this may indicate control surface
flutter. Because flutter can quickly destroy components
of your airplane, any time you detect flutter you must
immediately cut the throttle and land the airplane!
Check all servo grommets for deterioration (this may
indicate which surface fluttered), and make sure all
pushrod linkages are secure and free of play. If the
control surface fluttered once, it probably will flutter
again under similar circumstances unless you can
eliminate the free-play or flexing in the linkages. Here
are some things which can cause flutter: Excessive
hinge gap; Not mounting control horns solidly; Poor fit of
clevis pin in horn; Side-play of pushrod in guide tube
caused by tight bends; Poor fit of Z-bend in servo arm;
Insufficient glue used when gluing in the elevator joiner
wire; Excessive play or backlash in servo gears; and
Insecure servo mounting.

FUEL MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS

A fully cowled engine may run at a higher temperature than
an uncowled engine. For this reason, the fuel mixture
should be richened so the engine runs at about 200 rpm
below peak speed. By running the engine slightly rich, you
will help prevent dead stick landings caused by overheating.

TAKEOFF

Takeoff on “high” rates if you have dual rates on your
transmitter and with the flaps up - especially if you are
taking off into a crosswind. For all models it is good
practice to gain as much speed as the length of the
runway will permit before lifting off. This will give you a
safety margin in case the engine quits. When the plane
has gained enough flying speed to safely lift off, gradually
and smoothly apply up elevator and allow the model to
climb at a shallow angle (do not yank the model off the
ground into a steep climb!)

FLIGHT

d

We recommend that you take it easy with your Corsair for
the first several flights, gradually “getting acquainted” with
this great model as your engine gets fully broken in. If you
feel as though you have your hands full, keep this in mind:
pull back on the throttle stick to slow the model down. This
will make everything happen a little slower and allow
yourself time to think and react. Add and practice one
maneuver at a time, learning how the Corsair behaves in
each. For smooth flying and normal maneuvers, use the
low rate settings as listed on page 53.

Sometime well before it’s time to land, you should climb
your Corsair to a safe altitude, cut the throttle to an idle,
lower the flaps and check out the model’s low speed
characteristics. Do this a few times so you know what to
expect upon landing and how the Corsair handles stalls.

LANDING

When it’s time to land, fly a normal landing pattern and
approach. Lower the flaps keeping a few clicks of power
on until you are over the runway threshold. For your first
few landings, plan to land slightly faster than stall speed.

Have a ball! But always remember to think about your next
move and plan each maneuver before you do it.
Impulsively “jamming the sticks” without any thought is
what gets most fliers in trouble rather than lack of flying
skill. Happy Landings!

This model belongs to:

Name

Address

City

State ZIP

Phone #

AMA #

Copy (or cut out) this tag an

put it in your model.

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Top Flite® 1/5 Giant Scale Gold Edition

™

Top Flite® 1/5 Giant Scale Gold Edition

™

P–47D Thunderbolt TOPA0415

Giant “Jug” — with big advantages for builders!

Wingspan: 85 in (2160mm)
Wing Area: 1327 sq in (85.6 sq dm)
Weight: 20-22 lb (9.07-9.98kg)
Wing Loading: 34.7-38.2 oz/sq ft (106-117 g/sq dm)
Fuselage Length: 75.5 in (1917mm)
Requires: 6-7 channel radio w/5 high-torque and 4-6 std servos,

2.1-2.8 cu in glow or 41-70cc gasoline engine, main and
tailwheel retracts & 5+ rolls MonoKote® film

Top Flite’s 85” span Thunderbolt proves you CAN succeed with giant-scale, even if
you’ve never tried a kit of this size before. Its builder-friendly design and exceptionally
stable, forgiving flight characteristics make this a fine first — or next — giant sport-scale
project.

Precisely interlocking wood construction, vacuum-formed ABS parts and a step-by-step,
photo-illustrated manual combine for strong, straightforward assembly. The fully balsa­sheeted exterior simplifies scale finishing. And if you’d prefer to fly the “Razorback”
option, all parts (except greenhouse canopy, available separately) already come with
the kit.

P–51D Mustang TOPA0400

Build and fly your own giant–scale warbird!

Wingspan: 84.5 in
Wing Area: 1245 sq in
Weight (with radio): 17.5 to 19 lb
Wing Loading: 32–35 oz/sq ft
Fuselage Length: 73.5 in
Requires: 2.1–4.2 cu in glow or 35–70cc gasoline engine,

6–7 channel radio with 10 servos & 4+ rolls MonoKote

This kit’s high–quality, all–wood construction and proven, time–saving Gold Edition
engineering create a giant–scale Mustang that’s unusually easy to build. You can
succeed using familiar wood kit–building techniques, tools and materials. The CAD–
engineered parts interlock precisely—thorough, photo–illustrated instructions eliminate
guesswork. Many precision–formed scale details, such as radiator scoop, cowl bottom,
gun and exhaust ports, are included. And it performs spectacularly with glow–powered
or gasoline engines!

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DLE™ Engines DLE-55cc Gas Engine

Top Flite® Giant Scale F4U Corsair

Cockpit Interior Kit (TOPQ8407)

Premium gas performance!

Output: 5.5 hp @ 7,500 rpm
Weight: 1530 g (3 lb, 6 oz)

The only thing more astonishing than DLE performance is the low price — well below
popular “premium” brands, which makes them amazing bargains. Given their tight
tolerances and thorough inspections, it’s no wonder DLE gas engines take a licking and
keep on ticking! The 55cc includes an electronic ignition system, pump carburetor with
manual choke, muffler and 2-year limited warranty — plus full service support and parts
availability from the factory-authorized DLE U.S. service center in Champaign, IL.

Enrich the scale detail and realism of your Giant Scale Gold Edition F4U Corsair! This
kit installs easily and comes with seat, laser cut instrument panel and other components
for outstanding authenticity. Includes decals (paint available separately).

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