Silvercrest SON 90 A1 User Manual

Overlock Sewing Machine SON 90 A1

KOMPERNASS GMBH

BURGSTRASSE 21 · D-44867 BOCHUM

www.kompernass.com

ID-Nr.: SON 90 A1-01/11-V1

IAN: 64780

Overlock Sewing Machine

Operating instructions

SON 90 A1

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INDEX PAGE

Intended Usage 3 Safety instructions 3 Items supplied 4 Technical Data 4 Description of the appliance 5 Bringing the upper blade into a rest position 5 Needle Information 5 Upper looper element 5 Opening the front flap 6 Preparation 6

Connecting the foot pedal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Controlling the sewing speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Safety switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Fitting the waste container . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Removing needle(s) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Inserting needle(s) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Operating the handwheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Adjusting the thread tree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Threading 8

General instructions for threading . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Threading the upper looper thread (red) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Threading the lower looper thread (yellow) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Threading yarn for the right needle (green) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Threading yarn for the left needle (blue) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Trial run . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Changing threads (binding together) 15 Set the stitch length 15 Setting the seam width 15

... by using the right or left needle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

... by turning the seam width adjustment knob . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Setting the seam width adjustment knob . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Adjust sewing foot pressure 16 Differential transport 17

Manner of operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Gathered overlock seam - Settings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Stretched overlock seam - Settings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Free arm sewing 18

Read these operating instructions carefully before using the appliance for the first time and preserve this booklet for later reference. Pass this booklet on to whoever might acquire the appliance at a future date.

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Overlock seams 19

Roll hemmings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Binding-off and sample sewing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Recommended tension settings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

2-thread overcast chain stitch (overlock) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

2-thread-overcast-stitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

3-thread chain stitch (overlock) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

3-thread - flatlock seam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

3-thread overcast chain stitch (overlock) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

3-thread safety stitch, highly elastic, imitated . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

4-thread safety stitch, highly elastic, imitated . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Roll hemmings 28

3-thread rolled hem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

3-thread upper looper overcast rolled hem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

2-thread rolled hem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

2-thread lower looper overcast rolled hem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Flatlock decorative seams 30

Flatlock seam as assembly seam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Flatlock seam as decorative seam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Overlock blind hems 31 Pin tucks 31 Sewing corners 32

Outer corners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Inner corners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Tips and Tricks 33

Using pins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Secure empty threads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Seam reinforcement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Edging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Maintenance and Cleaning 34

Cleaning and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Exchanging the lower blade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Storage 35 Disposal 35 Warranty and Service 35 Importer 35 Troubleshooting 36

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Intended Usage

OVERLOCK SEWING MACHINE

This overlock sewing machine is intended ...

- for use as a portable machine, – for the trimming of material edges (sewing) of typical household

textiles, and ...

– only for domestic household use.

Safety instructions

Like any other electrical device, a sewing machine can cause serious, even life-threatening injuries. To avoid these, and to work safely:

• Always disconnect the power supply when leaving the machine unattended. This will prevent the risk of accidents if the machine is switched on accidentally.

• Always first disconnect the power plug before carrying out maintenance work on the machine. This will prevent possibly life-threatening electric shocks. The LED light is not exchangeable.

• Do not pull the plug out of the wall socket by the lead. When pulling out the plug, always hold the plug, not the lead.

• Only use the sewing machine in dry rooms.

• Arrange for defective power plugs and/or cables to be replaced at once by qualified technicians or our Customer Service Department.

• This appliance is not intended for use by individuals (including children) with restricted physical, physiological or intellectual abilities or deficiences in experience and/or knowledge unless they are supervised by a person responsible for their safety or receive from this person instruction in how the appliance is to be used.

• Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.

• Never use the machine when the ventilation apertures are blocked. Keep the ventilation apertures of the machine and the foot switch free from fluff, dust and waste material.

• Should the cable connected to the foot pedal become damaged, to avoid potential risks it must be replaced by the manufacturer, his customers services or a similarly qualified person.

This overlock sewing machine is not intended ...

- to be installed at a permanent location, – for the processing of other materials (e.g. leather, canvas, sailcloth

and other heavy materials),

- for commercial or industrial use.

Warning about injuries and material damages:

• Keep your work space tidy. An untidy workplace can lead to accidents.

• Provide adequate lighting when working!

• Do not wear loose clothing or jewellery, as these can be caught in moving parts. You should also wear a hair net if you have long hair.

• Avoid adopting an unusual posture. Remain steady and in a well-balanced position at all times.

• If accidents occur as a result of handling the machine with insufficient care, or failure to follow the safety instructions in this manual, then the manufacturer cannot accept liability.

• Never cover the ventilation slots! Risk of overheating!

• Keep the sewing machine oil well away from children.

• If swallowed, or should eye contact be made with the sewing machine oil, consult a doctor immediately.

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Items supplied

Overlock Sewing Machine Oil Waste container Accessory box Operating instructions

Replacement blade (bottom)

2 Needles Nr. 11 4 Needles Nr. 14 (2 in the machine, pre-installed)

4 Bobbin caps

Upper looper element

Screwdriver small

Screwdriver large

Covering hood

The accessories are to be found in the accessory box on the side of the machine (Fig.1.).

Technical Data

Number of threads 2, 3 or 4 Number of needles 2 or 1 Sewing speed approx. 1200 rpm Stitch width right: 3.0 mm - 4.5 mm left: 5.2 mm - 6.7 mm Stitch length 1 – 4 mm Needles HA x 1 Nr. 11-14 or 130/705 Nr. 75-90 Power consumption : 90 W Rated voltage: 220 - 240 V ~, 50Hz Protection class: II

Tweezers

Brush with integrated unstitcher

Fig. 1

The sound intensity level under normal operating conditions amounts to 78dB(A).

Foot pedal

Use only the foot pedal originally supplied with this sewing machine:

- ELECTRONIC FDM Speed Controller

- Type KD - 2902

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Description of the appliance

On the front fold-out page:

1 Thread tree 2 Spool support 3 Thread roll centerer 4 Sewing foot lever 5 Adjustment wheel for stitch length 6 Handwheel 7 Connection Footpedal/Power supply 8 Power switch (On/Off switch) 9 Differential transport lever 0 Front flap q Support plate of the seam width finger w Free arm e Stitch plate r Thread tension selector (left needle) t Thread tension selector (right needle) z Thread tension selector (upper looper) u Thread tension selector (lower looper)

Bringing the upper blade into a rest position

To make certain types of seam, or to more easily operate the adjustment wheel for cutting width f, you must bring the upper blade i into a rest position. For this, press the upper blade i to the right and rotate it a little, so that it is firmly seated (Fig. 2 and 3).

On the rear fold-out page:

i movable upper blade (Upper blade) o Upper looper p Lower looper a Sewing foot s Fixed lower blade d Seam width switch f Seam width adjustment knob

Fig. 2

Needle Information

This machine uses standard commercial flat-shaft needles for sewing machines. These prevent the incorrect insertion of the needle. You can purchase these needles in any specialist shop.

You can use needles of the sizes 11 and 14 in this machine.

The adjoining table gives you a brief overview of the differences when using a needle (for detailed information, see "Setting the seam width).

Upper looper element

For some kinds of stitches you will need to use the upper looper element. When you need to insert it is described in the individual stitches. Insert the small wire from behind in the eyelet of the upper looper o and the plastic bolt, on the other end and from the front, in the hole in the upper looper o (Fig. 4a). You can store the upper looper ready for use in the slot behind the front flap 0 (Fig. 4b).

Fig. 3

Seam width 3.5 mm 5.7 mm

Employed needle right needle left needle

Thread tension selector green blue

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Fig.4a

Fig.4b

Opening the front flap

Attention!

Always switch the machine off with the power switch 8 when you open the front flap 0. Risk of Injury!

• Slide the front flap 0 to the right (A) and then pull it towards you (B) (Fig. 5).You will see the upper looper behind the front flap 0.

Note:

While sewing, the front flap 0 must be kept closed!

Preparation

Place the overlock sewing machine on a stable and level surface. Ensure there is sufficient illumination at your workplace.

Connecting the foot pedal

• Insert the plug of the foot pedal into the socket for the foot pedal 7.

• Insert the plug into a power socket.

To switch the machine on, press the power switch 8.

Fig. 5

Attention!

During absences from the machine or when doing maintenance work, always remove the plug from the mains power socket. Risk of Injury!

Controlling the sewing speed

The sewing speed is controlled by means of the footpedal. The sewing speed is changed by applying more or less pressure to the footpedal.

Safety switch

This machine is fitted with a micro safety switch. You cannot start the machine if the front flap 0 is open. Close the front flap 0 before you start to sew.

Fitting the waste container

The waste container collects remnants during sewing, so that your workplace stays tidy.

• First push the two restraints (A) into the receiving holes (B) (Fig. 6).

• Then guide the two restraints (C) into the receiving holes (D) (Fig. 7).

Fig. 6

• To remove the waste container, pull it forward and then tilt it slightly (Fig. 8).

Fig. 7

Fig. 8

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Removing needle(s)

Attention!

Before exchanging the needles, remove the power plug. This prevents an unintended starting of the machine. If you do not, you run a risk of serious injury!

TTiipp!! An exchange of the needles is easier if you first remove the free arm cover (Fig. 9a)!

1. Turn the handwheel 6 towards yourself until the needles are in the highest position (Fig. 9b)

2. Loosen the needle retaining screws with the small screwdriver until the needles are free (Fig. 10).

3. Remove the needles.

Inserting needle(s)

Attention!

Before exchanging the needles, remove the power plug. This prevents an unintended starting of the machine. If you do not, you run a risk of serious injury!

1. Hold the needle with the flattened side to the rear.

2. Push the needle as far as it will go into the needle holder.

3. Firmly tighten the needle screws with the small screwdriver (Fig. 10).

Fig.9a

Fig.9b

Operating the handwheel

Note:

Always turn the handwheel 6 only towards yourself (Fig. 9b).

Adjusting the thread tree

• Completely remove the thread tree 1 before threading (Fig. 11).

• Turn the thread tree 1 so that the thread guides stand exactly above the spool supports 2.

• In the correct position, the two jointed parts of the thread tree 1 snap audibly into position.

• Place the thread rolls on the thread roll centrings. If you do not use industrial coils, remove the thread roll centrings. Slide a spool cap onto each of the thread rolls (Fig. 12). This will hold them in place when sewing.

Fig.10

Fig. 11

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Fig. 12

Threading

143 2

Note:

On delivery, all 4 threads are already threaded. You can begin sewing immediately. Should you wish to change the thread, and all 4 threads are still threaded, then proceed as described in the chapter "Changing threads (binding together)“. Should you need to rethread all threads from scratch, then proceed as described in this chapter, "Threading“.

General instructions for threading

Attention!

Before threading, ALWAYS place the power switch 8 at "O" (Off) and remove the plug from the mains power socket. This prevents an unintended starting of the machine. If you do not, you run a risk of serious injury!

Correct threading is important, so that the stitches are not irregular and that the yarn does not break. Behind the front flap 0 there is a diagram with instructions for threading. Additionally, the thread guides are marked in various colours.

In the accessory box you will find tweezers, the use of which helps make threading easier.

Threading is done in this order (Fig. 13/14):

1. First step: Upper looper (red)

2. Second step: Lower looper (yellow)

3. Third step: Thread for the right needle (green)

4. Fourth step: Thread for the left needle (blue)

Note:

When all threads are threaded, and the lower looper thread loosens itself, proceed as follows:

• Unthread the two threads of the needles.

• Then thread the lower looper thread.

• First then rethread the threads of the two needles again.

The needles must always be the last to be threaded!

For simplification, the individual steps are numbered on the drawings.

Fig. 13

Fig. 14

Threading the upper looper thread (red)

Attention!

Always use the accompanying drawings for assistance.

Figure 15 shows the thread path of the upper looper thread. The individual threading positions are numbered and described in detail in the following.

1. Open the front flap 0.

2. Guide the yarn from back to front through the thread tree 1 (1).

Fig. 15

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3. Thread the yarn into the thread guide in that you pull the thread down until it slips under the thread guide (2) (Fig. 16).

Fig. 16

4. Firmly hold the yarn with your fingers, guide it between and through the discs of the thread tension selector z and then pull it down (3) (Fig. 17).

Note:

The yarn must lie correctly between the two discs of the thread tension selector z.

5. Thread the yarn in the looper area as per the red markings (Fig. 18).

6. Pull the thread from back to front through the upper looper o.

7. Pull around 10 cm of thread through the looper and place it behind the stitch plate e.

Fig. 17

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Fig. 18

Threading the lower looper thread (yellow)

Attention!

Figure 19 shows the thread path of the lower looper thread. The individual threading positions are numbered and described in detail in the following.

1. Guide the yarn from back to front through the thread tree 1 (1).

2. Thread the yarn into the thread guide in that you pull the thread down until it slips under the thread guide (2) (Fig. 20).

3. Firmly hold the yarn with your fingers, guide it between and through the discs of the thread tension selector u and then pull it down (3) (Fig. 21).

Fig. 19

Fig. 20

Note:

The yarn must lie correctly between the two discs of the thread tension selector u.

4. Turn the handwheel 6 to yourself until the lower looper p is at the far right.

Fig. 21

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+ 26 hidden pages