OWNER'S MANUAL
SEWING MACHINE
MODELS 385. 11607 385. 12614
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
Dear Customer: |
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You have just |
invested |
in a |
very |
fine |
zigzag |
sewing machine. |
Before using your new Kenmore |
machine, |
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please |
pause |
for |
a |
moment |
and |
carefully |
read |
this |
booklet |
which contains instructions |
on |
how |
to |
operate |
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and care for your machine. |
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Specific |
instructions |
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are |
given |
on |
threading, |
tension |
adjustments, |
cleaning, |
oiling, |
etc. |
This |
will |
help |
you |
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obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control. |
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Advice on the operation and |
care |
of your |
machine |
is always available at your nearest |
Sears Retail |
Store. |
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Please |
remember, |
if |
you |
have questions |
about |
your |
machine |
or |
need |
parts and |
service, |
always |
mention |
the model number and serial number when you inquire.
Kenmore Sewing Machine
Record |
in |
space |
provided |
below the |
model |
number |
and |
serial |
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number |
of |
this |
appliance. |
The |
model |
number |
and |
serial |
number |
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are located |
on |
the |
nomenclature |
plate, |
as identified |
on |
Page |
4 of |
this booklet. |
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Model No. 385._ |
Serial No.. |
Retain these numbers for future reference. |
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THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.
IMPORTANT SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS
Your sewing machine is |
designed and constructed only for HOUSEHOLD use. |
Read all instruction before using this sewing machine. |
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DANGER |
■ To reduce the risk of electric shock: |
1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
2.Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts.
3.Do not reach for the appliance that has fallen into water. Unplug immediately.
4.Do not place or store appliance where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink. Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid.
WARNING |
■To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock. |
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or injury to persons. |
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1.Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this appliance is used by or near children.
2. |
Use |
this |
appliance |
only for |
its |
intended |
use |
as described in |
this |
manual. |
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Use only |
attachments |
recommended |
by |
the |
manufacturer |
as |
contained |
in |
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this manual. |
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3. |
Never |
operate |
this |
appliance |
if it |
has a damaged cord or |
plug, |
if |
it is |
not |
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working |
properly, if |
it |
has |
been |
dropped |
or |
damaged, |
or |
dropped |
into |
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water. |
Return |
the |
appliance |
to |
the |
nearest |
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authorized |
dealer |
or |
service |
center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. |
Never |
operate |
the |
appliance |
with |
any |
air |
opening |
blocked. |
Keep |
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ventilation openings of the sewing machine and |
foot controller free |
from |
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accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth. |
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5.Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6.Do not use outdoors.
7. |
Do not operate where aerosol |
(spray) |
products |
are |
being |
used or where |
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oxygen is being administered. |
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8. |
To |
disconnect, |
turn |
all |
controls to |
the off |
(“O") |
position, |
then |
remove |
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plug from outlet. |
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9. |
Do |
not |
unplug |
by |
pulling |
on |
cord. |
To |
unplug, grasp |
the |
plug, |
not |
the |
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cord. |
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10. |
Keep |
fingers |
away |
from |
all |
moving |
parts. |
Special |
care |
is |
required |
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around the sewing machine needle. |
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11. |
Always |
use the proper |
needle |
plate. |
The wrong |
plate |
can |
cause |
the |
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needle to break. |
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12.Do not use bent needles.
13.Do not pull or push fabric while stitching.
It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14. |
Switch the sewing machine |
off |
("O") |
when |
making |
any |
adjustment in |
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the needle |
area, |
such |
as |
threading |
needle, |
changing |
needle, threading |
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bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like. |
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15. |
Always |
unplug |
the |
sewing |
machine |
from |
the |
electrical |
outlet when |
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removing |
covers, |
lubricating, |
or |
when |
making |
any |
other |
adjustments |
mentioned in the instruction manual.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION 1. |
KNOW THE MACHINE |
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A Portable Case or Cabinet is Avaialble............................................................. |
3 |
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Locate and Identify the Parts........................................................................ |
3~4 |
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Identify the Accessories........................................................................................ |
4 |
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SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING |
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Set Up the Machine.......................................................................................... |
5~7 |
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» Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power ............................................... |
5 |
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• |
Foot Control Use.......................................................................................... |
5 |
• |
Setting Spool Pins.......................................................................................... |
6 |
• Adjust the Presser Foot Lever...................................................................... |
6 |
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• |
Thread Cutter ................................................................................................. |
6 |
• Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table |
... 7 |
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® Accessories Storage Box.................................................................................. |
7 |
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» Change the Presser Foot................................................................................. |
7 |
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Choose the Needle and Thread ...................................................................... |
7~8 |
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® To Change the Needle...................................................................................... |
7 |
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• |
Check the Needle........................................................................................... |
8 |
® Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart............................................ |
8 |
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Prepare the Bobbin......................................................................................... |
9~10 |
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® To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine ........................................... |
9 |
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e Wind the Bobbin ......................................................................................... |
9~10 |
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® Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case....................................................... |
10 |
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Prepare the Top Thread................................................................................ |
11~12 |
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» Thread the Needle ......................................................................................... |
11 |
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® Pick Up the Bobbin Thread ......................................................................... |
12 |
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Adjust the Top Thread Tension..................................................................... |
13~14 |
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Reverse Stitch Control........................................................................................ |
14 |
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Stitch Selector................................................................................................... |
15 |
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Stitch Length Control.......................................................................................... |
16 |
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Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance (Model |
12614 only) ... 16 |
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Starting To Sew................................................................................................. |
17 |
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SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES |
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Straight Stitches............................................................................................. |
18~22 |
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Straight Stitch............................................................................................. |
18 |
® Use the Seam Guides.................................................................................... |
18 |
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® Turn a Square Corner.................................................................................. |
18 |
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® Topstitching..................................................................................................... |
19 |
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® Left Needle Position ................................................................................. |
. 19 |
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® Sew in a Zipper .................................................................................... |
20~21 |
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Use the Darning Plate.................................................................................. |
22 |
* |
Darning ........................................................................................................ |
22 |
Zigzag Stitches.............................................................................................. |
23~30 |
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Basic Zigzag................................................................................................. |
23 |
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Satin Stitch.................................................................................................... |
24 |
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Applique....................................................................................................... |
25 |
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Bar Tacking................................................................................................... |
25 |
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Sew a Button................................................................................................. |
26 |
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Overcasting Stitch......................................................................................... |
27 |
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Three-Step Zigzag........................................................................................ |
28 |
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Lace Work..................................................................................................... |
28 |
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Blind Hemming ............................................................................................ |
29 |
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Shell Stitching............................................................................................... |
30 |
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Box Stitching................................................................................................. |
30 |
Stretch Stitches (Model 12614 only) ............................................................. |
31~33 |
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Straight Stretch............................................................................................ |
31 |
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Rick-Ruck Stretch ....................................................................................... |
31 |
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Smocking...................................................................................................... |
32 |
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Overcast Stretch Stitching ........................................................................... |
32 |
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Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching......................................................... |
33 |
» |
Elastic Stretch Stitch.................................................................................... |
33 |
Buttonholes.................................................................................................... |
34~35 |
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SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART |
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What to Do When |
36-37 |
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SECTION 5. CARE FOR THE MACHINE |
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Replacing the Light Bulb..................................................................................... |
38 |
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Cleaning the Machine ................................................................................. |
38—39 |
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• Clean the Feed Dogs........................................................................................ |
38 |
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® Clean the Shuttle Race .................................................................................. |
39 |
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Oiling the Machine.............................................................................................. |
40 |
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» Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and Under |
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Arm Cover Plate............................................................................................ |
40 |
® Oil the Underside............................................................................................. |
40 |
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PARTS LIST.................................................................................................................... |
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INDEX ................................................................................................................ |
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42 |
2
A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available
A |
full |
line of |
sewing cabinets |
is |
available at your |
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nearest |
Sears |
retail |
store or |
through |
our |
general |
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catalog. |
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Another |
option . |
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buy a Carrying Case . . . then |
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your |
Kenmore |
goes |
anywhere, |
can |
be |
stored |
any |
where.
SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE
Locate and Identify the Parts
Take-up Lever |
Upper Thread Guide |
Thread Spool Pins |
SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE
Identify the Accessories
Arm Cover Plate |
Carrying Handle |
Bobbin
Needle set
Buttonhole opener
Large screw driver
Sliding buttonhole foot
Zipper foot
Straight stitch foot
Small screw driver
Satin stitch foot
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine
• Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power |
® Foot Control Use |
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SAFETY FEATURE: |
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Your machine will |
not |
operate |
unless |
the |
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machine, |
be |
sure |
the |
power |
switch |
light/power |
switch |
is |
turned |
on. |
If |
you |
are |
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is |
or |
stop |
sewing, |
turn |
off |
the |
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OFF. |
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interrupted |
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light/power |
switch |
to |
prevent |
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injury |
to |
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1. |
Check |
your outlet to |
be sure it |
is |
a |
110 |
to |
children. |
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120 |
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Volt AC outlet, |
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2. |
Insert |
the |
machine plug |
into |
the |
three-prong |
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plug connector, |
as |
shown. |
It |
will |
only |
fit |
one |
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way. |
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which you sew. |
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To |
increase |
speed, |
gently |
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press |
down |
with |
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the ball of your foot. |
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To |
decrease |
speed, |
release |
your |
foot |
pres |
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sure slightly. |
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NOTE: |
The foot control is sensitive and |
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will |
increase |
or |
decrease |
your |
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sewing |
speed |
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immediately. |
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Practice on a scrap of |
fabric to |
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regulate |
your |
sewing |
speed |
to |
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your taste and needs. |
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3.Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
» Setting Spool Pin |
» Adjust the Presser Foot Lever |
• Thread Cutter |
The |
spool |
pins |
are |
used |
for |
holding |
the |
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spools of |
thread |
when feeding thread to the |
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machine. |
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To |
use, |
pull |
up |
the |
spool |
pins. |
Push |
down |
for storage.
NOTE: Model 11607 has one spool pin.
The |
Presser |
Foot |
Lever |
raises |
and |
lowers |
your |
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presser foot. |
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You |
can |
raise |
it about 1 |
/4" higher than |
the |
normal |
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up |
position for |
easy removal of the presser |
foot |
or |
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to |
help |
you |
place |
heavy |
fabrics |
under |
the |
presser |
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foot. |
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You don't need a pair |
of scissors to |
cut |
the |
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thread |
after you |
finish |
sewing. |
Just |
use |
the |
handy thread cutter. |
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Pull |
the threads |
to |
lengthen |
several |
inches |
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before starting the next seam. |
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SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine (Continued) |
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Choose the Needle and Thread |
• Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable |
• Accessory Storage Box |
■ Change the Presser Foot |
• To Change the Needle |
Extension Table |
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(for free-arm sewing)
1.Grip the table with your index finger and thumb, as shown.
2.Pull gently to the left. The extension table will snap out.
To Attach the Extension Table
(for flat-bed sewing)
1.Insert the tab and the pin into their catches.
2.With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in.
box lifts open toward you.
Sewing |
accessories |
are |
conveni |
ently located in the box. |
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the stitch you wish to sew.
To change the various presser
feet, raise the presser bar to its
highest |
position |
by |
lifting |
the |
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presser foot lever. |
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Loosen |
the |
presser |
foot |
thumb |
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screw, |
choose |
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the |
proper |
foot, |
insert from the bottom. |
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Tighten |
the |
screw |
using |
the |
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large |
screw |
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driver |
to |
make |
certain the foot is secure.
NOTE: |
Raise |
the |
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needle |
bar to |
its |
highest |
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position |
by |
turning |
the |
hand |
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wheel |
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toward you. |
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1. |
Loosen |
the |
needle |
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clamp |
screw |
by |
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turning it toward you. |
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2. |
Remove |
the |
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needle |
by |
pulling it |
down |
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ward. |
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3. |
Insert |
the |
new needle |
into |
the |
needle |
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clamp with the flat side away from you. |
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4.Push the needle up as far as it will go.
5. |
Tighten |
the needle clamp |
screw |
firmly |
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with |
the |
large |
screwdriver |
from |
the |
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accessory box. |
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SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are |
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sewing. |
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In the needle envelope, you will find the following color-coded |
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needles: |
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Blue (11) ....................................... |
for stretch fabrics. |
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Orange (11)................................... |
for lightweight fabrics. |
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Red (14)........................................ |
for |
medium or medium-heavy |
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weight fabrics. |
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Purple (16).................................... |
for |
medium-heavy weight fabrics |
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and |
decorative topstitching on these |
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fabrics. |
(This |
needle has |
a |
larger |
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thread |
hole |
for |
thicker |
topstitching |
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thread.) |
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Green (18) |
....................................for |
heavy weight fabrics and |
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decorative |
top-stitching |
on |
these |
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fabrics. |
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Replacement Kenmore needles are available at your nearest Sears store.
•Check the Needle
1.Look for barbed or blunt point.
2.A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics.
Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness.
® Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart
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NEEDLE |
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RECOMMENDED |
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FABRIC |
SIZE AND |
THREAD SIZE |
STITCH LENGTH |
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COLOR |
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SETTING |
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Lightweight: |
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Polyester Core/Cotton |
2 |
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Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, |
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Wrap |
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Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, |
11-ORANGE |
(12 stitches per |
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Fine Mercerized Cotton |
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Crepe, Taffeta, Voile, |
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inch) |
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Silk A |
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Organdy |
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Medium Weight: |
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Cotton, Cotton Blend, |
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50 Mercerized Cotton |
2-2.5 |
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Percale, Gingham, |
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Polyester Core/Cotton |
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Shantung, Pique, |
14-RED |
(10-12 stitches |
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Wrap |
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Seersucker, Satin, Knit, |
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per inch) |
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Silk A |
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Suitings, Linen, |
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Wool Crepe, Leather |
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Medium Heavy Weight: |
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50 Mercerized Cotton |
2-3 |
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Corduroy, Denim, Wool, |
14-RED |
Mercerized Heavy-Duty |
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Sailcloth, Wool Flannel, |
or |
Polyester Core/Cotton |
(8-10 stitches |
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Gabardine, Velvet, |
16-PURPLE |
Wrap |
per inch) |
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Leather |
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Silk A |
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Heavy Weight: |
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Heavy Duty Mercerized |
3 |
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Cotton |
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Coating, Upholstery |
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18-GREEN |
Polyester Core/Cotton |
(8 stitches per |
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Cotton Duck, Heavy |
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Wrap |
inch) |
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Twills, Canvas |
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Silk A |
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Decorative top-stitching |
16-PURPLE |
Buttonhole Twist |
3-4 |
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(6-8 stitches |
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on all types of fabric |
18-GREEN |
(Use as top thread only) |
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per inch) |
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Stretch Fabric: |
11-BLUE |
Polyester Core/Cotton |
2-2.5 |
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Polyester Double Knit, |
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(STRETCH |
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Nylon Tricot, Jersey, |
Wrap |
(10-12 stitches |
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FABRIC |
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Stretch Terry, Spandex, |
50 Mercerized Cotton |
per inch) |
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NEEDLE) |
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Ciré Tricot |
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8
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
Prepare the Bobbin
• To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine |
Wind the Bobbin |
moving |
while you wind the |
bobbin. |
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the machine |
by |
pulling |
it |
to |
the tie, pull open latch of bobbin case. |
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left. |
Open |
the |
shuttle |
cover |
by |
Pull bobbin case straight out of |
||
pulling |
down |
the |
embossed |
part |
on |
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shuttle. |
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the left side of the cover. |
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|
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Raise |
needle |
to |
its highest |
position |
|
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by rotating hand wheel toward you. |
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|
|
NOTE: The |
bobbin |
winder |
stopper can |
be |
adjusted |
for the amount |
of |
thread needed |
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on |
the |
bobbin |
(example |
1/ |
2 |
full |
or |
full etc.). To make |
the |
adjustment |
use |
|||||
your |
large |
screw driver |
and |
loosen |
the |
screw |
one turn |
or |
less. |
This |
will |
allow |
||||
you |
to |
adjust |
the |
position |
of |
bobbin |
winder |
stopper. |
Do |
not |
take |
screw |
all |
the wayout.
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
• Wind the Bobbin (Continued)
bobbin winding tension disc as shown. bobbin as shown. |
spindle |
with |
end |
of |
thread |
coming |
Push |
bobbin |
winding |
spindle to the |
||||
|
from |
the |
top |
of |
the |
bobbin. |
Push |
left |
and clip |
thread. |
Remove |
bobbin. |
||
|
bobbin |
winding |
spindle |
to |
the |
right |
Turn |
clutch |
knob |
away |
from |
you |
||
|
until |
it |
clicks. |
Holding |
onto |
end of |
while |
holding |
hand |
wheel |
for |
normal |
||
|
thread, |
start machine. When bobbin is |
sewing operation. |
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|
|
|
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|
slightly filled, snip off end of thread. |
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|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case r
Place |
bobbin |
in |
bobbin |
case |
Pull thread through slot of case |
Pull thread under tension |
making |
sure |
thread |
feeds |
clock |
as shown. |
spring and through the opening |
wise |
and |
is |
coming |
from |
|
as shown above. Pull 3 to 4 |
bobbin as shown.
Holding |
latch |
open, |
position |
Case |
should |
lock |
into |
place |
case into |
shuttle |
and |
release |
when latch is released. |
|
|
||
latch. |
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|
|
|
|
|
|
|
10
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
Prepare the Top Thread
• Thread the Needle
The |
numbered |
steps |
above |
follow |
the |
numbers |
on the illustrations. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Dotted |
lines |
show |
places |
where |
the |
thread |
loops and then is pulled tight. |
|
|
|
2.While holding thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension area and then around the check spring holder.
3.Firmly draw thread up and through take-up lever from right to left.
4.Draw thread down and slip it into left side needle bar thread guide.
5.Thread needle from front to back.
NOTE: You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading.
11
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
• Pick Up the Bobbin Thread
handwheel toward you one complete turn.
If you cannot pick up bobbin thread by following steps given above, then check;
1.Is needle threaded from front to back?
2.Is thread tangled around needle?
3.Are 3 to 4 inches of thread coming from the shuttle?
4.Is thread from shuttle tangled?
5.Is bobbin properly installed in the bobbin case?
6.Is the machine threaded according to the instructions?
back of the presser foot, leaving 4
to 6 inches of thread clear.
12