All information in this publication is based on the latest product information available at the time of
approval for printing. Honda Motor Co., Ltd. reserves the right to make changes at any time without
notice and without incurring any obligation.
No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission.
By selecting a Honda motocross CRF450R as your new
motorcycle, you have placed yourself in a distinguished
family of motorcycle owners and riders.
WARNING
•
The CRF is a high performance racing motorcycle
utilizing the latest motocross technology. This mo-
torcycle is intended for competition use by experienced riders only.
This new motocross model was desighed to be as
competitive as possible. But motocross is a physically
demanding sport that requires more than just a fine
motorcycle.To do well, you must be in excellent
physical condition and be a skillful rider. For the best
possible results, work diligently on your physical conditioning and practice frequently.
The purpose of this Owner’s Manual is to help ensure
that you obtain the greatest possible satisfaction from
your new CRF motocrosser – satisfaction with the
performance of the motorcycle, and through success
in competition.
The Service Manual for your CRF is available from your
authorized Honda dealer. It is the same manual your
dealer uses. If you plan to do any service on your CRF
beyond the standard maintenance procedures included
in this Owner’s Manual, you will find the Service
Manual an effective and worthwhile tool. If your dealer
does not have the Service Manual for your particular
year and model in stock, he can order it.
Read this WARNING LABEL before you ride.
PROTECTIVE APPAREL
1. Most motorcycle accident fatalities are due to head
injuries: ALWAYS wear an approved motorcycle helmet. You should also wear a face shield or goggles,
boots, gloves, and protective clothing.
2. The exhaust system becomes very hot during operation, and it remains hot after operation. Never
touch any part of the hot exhaust system. Wear
clothing that fully covers your legs.
3. Do not wear loose clothing which could catch on
the control levers, kickstarter, footpegs, drive chain,
or wheels.
MODIFICATIONS
WARNING
Modification of the motorcycle, or removal of
•
original equipment may render the vehicle unsafe
or illegal. Obey all federal, state, and local equipment regulations.
Fuel tank capacity: 2.0 US gal (7.4 liter, 1.6 lmp gal)
To open the fuel fill cap, pull the breather tube out of the
steering stem nut. Then turn the fuel fill cap
counterclockwise.
• Use automobile gasoline with a pump octane number of 92 or higher. If “knocking” or “pinging” occurs, try a different brand of gasoline or a higher
octane grade.
WARNING
Gasoline is extremely flammable and is explo-
•
sive under certain conditions. Perform this operation in a well-ventilated area with the engine
stopped. Do not smoke or allow flames or sparks in
the area where gasoline is drained or stored and
where the fuel tank is refueled.
(1) FUEL FILL CAP (2) BREATHER TUBE
BASIC OPERATION
Starting The Engine
WARNING
•
Never run the engine in an enclosed area. The exhaust contains poisonous carbon monoxide gas that
can cause loss of consciousness and lead to death.
•
Attempting to start the engine with the transmission in gear and clutch engaged may result in injury or damage.
NOTE:
• This motorcycle can be kickstarted with the transmission in gear by disengaging the clutch before
operating the kickstarter.
Check the engine oil, transmission oil and coolant levels before starting the engine (page 21, 23, 24).
Cold Engine Starting:
1. Turn the fuel valve ON.
2. Shift the transmission into neutral.
3. If the temperature is 35°C (95°F) or below, pull the
choke knob fully out.
4. If the temperature is below 0°C (32°F), open the
throttle two or three times. (The engine requires a
richer mixture for starting in cold weather. When
the throttle is so opened, the accelerator pump will
feed extra fuel to the cylinder, thereby facilitating
starting in cold weather.)
5. With the throttle closed, operate the kickstarter starting from the top of the kickstarter stroke, kick through
to the bottom with a rapid, continuous motion.
(Do not open the throttle, As the carburetor is
equipped with an accelerator pump, excessive fuel
will be charged into the engine, and the spark plug
will be fouled if the throttle is opened and closed
repeatedly. Excessive fuel in the engine makes kickstarting difficult.)
6. About a minute after the engine starts, push the
choke knob back all the way to fully OFF.
If idling is unstable, open the throttle slightly.
(1) FUEL VALVE(2) CHOKE KNOB
Warm Engine Starting:
1. Turn the fuel valve ON.
2. Shift the transmission into neutral.
3. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine. (Do
not open the throttle.)
4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start
lever.
1
(1) HOT START LEVER
2
Starting the engine after a stall during riding or after a
fall:
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine. (Do
not open the throttle.)
3. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start
lever.
Starting the engine excessively charged with fuel by
throttle blipping or other reasons:
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. With the throttle fully opened, repeat kickstarter operation approximately 10 times very slowly to discharge excessive fuel from the engine.
3. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine (Do
not open the throttle.)
4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start
lever.
Stopping The Engine
1. Shift the transmission into neutral.
2. Turn the fuel valve OFF.
3. Lightly open the throttle 2 – 3 times, and then close
it.
4. Depress and hold the engine stop button until the
engine stops completely.
NOTE:
• Failure to close the fuel valve may cause the carburetor to overflow.
(1) THROTTLE GRIP(2) ENGINE STOP BUTTON
Break-In Procedure
Help assure your CRF’s future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you ride during the first operating day or 15 miles (25 km).
During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and rapid
acceleration.
This same procedure should be followed each time
when:
• Piston is replaced
• Rings are replaced
• Cylinder is replaced
• Crankshaft or crank bearing are replaced
3
1.OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
CONTROLS
HOT START LEVER
CLUTCH LEVER
ENGINE STOP BUTTON
CHOKE KNOB
FRONT BRAKE LEVER
THROTTLE GRIP
FUEL FILL CAP
KICKSTARTER
FUEL VALVESHIFT LEVER
REAR BRAKE PEDAL
4
CONTROL ADJUSTMENT
Clutch Lever Position
CAUTION:
•
Make sure to adjust the clutch lever free play after
the clutch lever position adjustment or clutch cable
disconnected.
1. The clutch lever position can be adjusted by looseing
the lock nut and turning the adjuster.
Turning the adjuster counterclockwise moves the
clutch lever farther away from the grip; turning the
adjuster clockwise moves the clutch lever closer to
grip. Tighten the lock nut securely.
3. Loosen the lock nut and turn the integral cable adjuster to adjust the clutch lever free play 3/8 – 3/4 in
(10 – 20 mm) at the tip of lever. Tighten the lock nut.
2
D
1
C
Clutch Lever Free Play
1. The normal clutch lever free play is 3/8 – 3/4 in
(10 – 20 mm) at the tip of the lever.
1
2
2
1
(1) ADJUSTER(2) LOCK NUT
2. Turn the cable end adjuster in direction A until it
seats lightly and then turn it out 5 turns.
4. Adjust the cable end adjuster for minor adjustment.
F
E
1
(1) CABLE END ADJUSTER
(E) INCREASE
(F) DECREASE
(1) CLUTCH LEVER(2) DUST COVER
2. Minor adjustments can be made with the cable end
adjuster.
Turning the adjuster in direction A will increase free
play and turning it in direction B will decrease free
play.
If the adjuster is threaded out near its limit or the
correct free play cannot be reached, turn the adjuster
all the way in and back out one turn and make the
adjustment with the integral cable adjuster.
5
1. OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
B
A
1
(1) CABLE END ADJUSTER
(A) INCREASE (B) DECREASE
3. Major adjustments can be made at the integral
cable adjuster.
Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster. Turning
the adjuster in direction C will increase free play and
turning it in direction D will decrease free play.
Tighten the lock nut after adjusting.
4. Test ride to be sure the clutch operates properly
without slipping or dragging.
NOTE :
• If proper adjustment still cannot be obtained or the
clutch does not operate correctly, see pages 28 – 30,
refer to the Honda Service Manual, or see your authorized Honda dealer for clutch disassembly and
wear inspection.
Hot Start
1. The normal hot start lever free play is 1/16 – 1/8 in
(2 – 3 mm) at the tip of the lever.
21
(1) HOT START LEVER
(2) DUST COVER
2. Adjustments can be made with the cable end adjuster.
Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster Turning
the adjuster in direction A will increase free play and
turning in direction B will decrease free play. After
adjustment, tighten the lock nut.
1
Throttle Grip
Standard throttle grip free play is approximately
1/8 – 3/16 in (3 – 5 mm) of grip rotation.
1. Minor adjustment is made with the upper adjuster.
Remove the dust cover and loosen the lock nut.
Turning the adjuster in direction A will increase free
play and turning it in direction B will decrease free
play. Tighten the lock nut and reinstall the dust cover
after adjustment.
If the adjuster is threaded out near its limit or the
correct free play cannot be reached, turn the adjuster
all the way in and back out one turn.
Tighten the lock nut, install the dust cover and make
the adjustment with the carburetor top adjuster.
3. To make major adjustments, loosen the lock nut.
Turn the adjuster in direction C to increase free play,
and in direction D to decrease free play.
Tighten the lock nut.
4. Install the fuel tank (page 18).
5. Operate the throttle grip to ensure that it functions
smoothly and returns completely.
Front Brake Lever
The front brake lever position can be adjusted by
Ioosening the lock nut and turning the adjuster. Turning the adjuster clockwise moves the brake lever farther away from the grip; turning the adjuster
counterclockwise moves the brake lever closer to the
grip.
Tighten the lock nut securely.
If the brake lever free play exceeds 0.8 in (20 mm), there
is probably air in the brake system and it must be bled.
Refer to the Honda Service Manual or see your authorized Honda dealer for brake bleeding.
CAUTION:
•
Apply grease to the contacting faces of the adjuster
and piston.
Brake Pedal Height
The brake pedal height should be approximately level
with the right footpeg.
To adjust the rear brake pedal height:
1. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjusting bolt in
direction A to raise the pedal, or in direction B to
lower it.
2. Tighten the lock nut at the desired pedal height.
(1) LOCK NUT(2) ADJUSTER
(C) INCREASE(D) DECREASE
(1) REAR BRAKE PEDAL (2) LOCK NUT
(3) ADJUSTING BOLT
(A) RAISE THE PEDAL HEIGHT
(B) LOWER THE PEDAL HEIGHT
(1) ADJUSTER(2) LOCK NUT(3) PISTON
7
1. OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
ADJUSTMENT FOR PERSONAL FIT
Control Positioning
• Position the control levers so that control use is
comfortable when both seated and standing.
• Adjust control lever mounting bolt torque so that
the levers will rotate on the handlebar in a fall,
rather than bending or breaking. Apply Honda
Thread Lock or an equivalent to the threads of these
bolts prior to adjustment to help ensure the correct
torque is retained. Tighten the top bolts first.
1
1
(1) CONTROL LEVER MOUNT BOLTS
Handlebar Position, Width & Shape
• Position the handlebar so that both gripping the bar
and operating the controls are comfortable while
both seated and standing, while riding straight
ahead and turning. Tighten the forward bolts first.
• The handlebar position may be moved rearward
either 3 mm (using optional handlebar lower holders) or 6 mm (by rotating the standard holders 180
degrees). Refer to the Service Manual for installation instructions. Be sure to check the control cable
and wiring harness routing after adjustment.
• Handlebar width can be trimmed with a hacksaw to
better suit your particular shouIder width and riding
preference. Think this through carefully and cut off
just a small amount at a time from both sides equally.
It is obviously much easier to make the handlebar
narrower than it is to add material.
Additional Individualized Adjustments
• Initial suspension adjustments should be performed
after a minimum of two hours of easy break-in time.
Complete information on suspension adjustment is
given in the Suspension Adjustment section.
• Optional front and rear suspension springs (front:
stiffer and softer, rear: stiffer and softer) are available to tailor your CRF specifically for your weight,
riding style and course conditions. Follow the instructions given in the rear suspension sag setting
section of Suspension Adjustment to determine if
your combined rider and sprung machine weight
(rider fuIIy dressed for competition and machine
coolant, oil and fuel levels ready for competition)
requires an optional stiffer or softer rear spring. The
use of the stiffer rear spring may need to be balanced by the use of the stiffer front spring.
• In order to further fine tune your CRF for specific
course terrain and conditions, there is a choice of
both higher and lower final drive ratios with two
optional aluminum driven sprockets. For muddy or
sandy courses, there is a more durable steel driven
sprocket with the standard number of teeth. Like the
optional springs, these sprockets are listed in the
optional parts section of this manual.
• Position the shifter and brake pedal so that they are
close to your boot for rapid access, but not so close
that either is depressed when sitting or standing
comfortably on the bike.
8
NOTE:
•Chamfer the edges to remove burrs and other
irregularities or roughness after sawing the handlebar.
•An alternate handlebar shape, through varying rise
or rearward sweep dimensions, will provide further
adjustment to riding position and may better suit
your particular body size or riding style. Each of the
ergonomic dimensions of the machine were determined to suit the greatest possible number of riders based on an average size rider.
FCR00C
Main jet (standard)
Jet needle (standard)
Needle clip position
(standard)
4th groove
Slow jet (standard)
3
Pilot screw opening
Float level
1–1/2 turns out
0.31in
96.0 x 62.1
# 165
NCYR
# 42
Metric
mm
660 cm
690 cm
850 cm
590 cm
670 cm
8.0mm
ItemEnglishMetric
Drive train
Clutch type
Transmission
Primary reduction
Gear ratio I
3
Gear ratio II
Gear ratio III
Gear ratio IV
3
3
3
Gear ratio V
Final reduction
Gear shift pattern
Electrical
Ignition
Starting system
3
Spark plug :
Standard
3
For extended high
speed riding
Wet, multi-plate type
5-speed, constant mesh
2.739
1.800
1.470
1.235
1.050
0.909
3.692
Left foot-operated return
system 1-N-2-3-4-5
CDl
Kickstarter
NGK
IFR8H11
DENSO
VK24PRZ11
NGK
IFR9H11
DENSO
VK27PRZ11
9
3. OPTIONAL PARTS
OPTIONAL PARTS LIST
These parts and tools may be ordered from your au-
thorized Honda dealer.
CARBURETORRemarks
Main jet
(Standard: #165)
Slow jet
(Standard: #42)
Jet Needles
Standard needle: NCYR
Straight diameter: ø2.755 mm
Jet needle number
(standard series)
#155 – #175 (in increments of
2 or 3)
165
#38 – #48
(in increments of 2 or 3)
Jet needle number
(1/2 clip position
richer than
standard series.
richer only at 1/8
to 3/4 throttle)
78.700 mm
78.250 mm
59.41 mm58.96 mm
FRAMERemarks
Driven sprocket
Standard
Optional
Handlebar
lower holder
Standard3 mm offset
Optional
Front wheel
Standard
Optional
< >: Drive chain links
48 Teeth, Aluminum.
<114>
47 Teeth, Aluminum
<112>
49 Teeth, Aluminum
<114>
no offset
21 inch
Fork height: 0.3 in (7.0 mm)
(align the index groove with the
top of the upper clamp)
20 inch
• wheel assembly
(except brake disk)
• tire tube
• tire flap
• rim lock (bead stopper)
• front tire
(90/100-20, 90/100-20 M/C)
Fork height: 0 in (0 mm)
(align the top of the fork tube
with the top of the upper clamp)
FRAMERemarks
Shock spring
Standard
Optional
Softer
Stiffer
Fork spring
Standard
308.0 lbf/in(5.50kgf/mm)
or
296.8 lbf/in(5.30kgf/mm)
319.2 lbf/in (5.70kgf/mm)
330.4 lbf/in (5.90kgf/mm)
26.32 lbf/in (0.47kgf/mm)
No mark(factory products)
Red
Redpaint(aftermarket parts)
NCYP
Ø2.735 mm
NCYQ
Ø2.745 mm
(standard needle)
NCYR
Ø2.755 mm
NCYS
Ø2.765 mm
(at 1/16 to 1/4 throttle)
Leaner Richer
General flow characteristics
NCYT
Ø2.775 mm
10
NCVP
Ø2.735 mm
NCVQ
Ø2.745 mm
NCVR
Ø2.755 mm
NCVS
Ø2.765 mm
NCVT
Ø2.775 mm
TOOLSRemarks
Pin spanner A
Workstand
Air gauge
To adjust spring preload.
(two spanners required)
For maintenance
For checking tire air pressure.
Optional
Softer
Stiffer
The standard fork spring and shock spring mounted
on the motorcycle when it leaves the factory are not
marked. Before replacing the springs, be sure to
mark them so they can be distinguished from other
optional springs.
25.20 lbf/in (0.45kgf/mm)
27.44 lbf/in (0.49kgf/mm)
4. SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
PRE-RIDE INSPECTION CHECK LIST
Pre-ride Inspection
WARNING
•
If the Pre-ride and Pre-race inspection are not
performed, severe personal injury or vehicle damage may result.
Perform the Pre-ride Inspection at each scheduled maintenance period.
l: Inspect and Clean, Adjust, Lubricate or Replace if necessary. C: Clean. R: Replace. L: Lubricate.
FREQUENCY
ITEMS
THROTTLE OPERATION
HOT START SYSTEM
AIR FILTER
CRANKCASE BREATHER
SPARK PLUG
RADIATOR COOLANT
VALVE CLEARANCE / DECOMPRESSOR SYSTEM
ENGINE OIL
ENGINE OIL FILTER
ENGINE IDLE SPEED
PISTON AND PISTON RINGS
PISTON PIN
TRANSMISSION OIL
COOLING SYSTEM
DRIVE CHAIN
DRIVE CHAIN SLIDER
DRIVE CHAIN ROLLER
DRIVE SPROCKET
DRIVEN SPROCKET
BRAKE FLUID
BRAKE PADS WEAR
BRAKE SYSTEM
CLUTCH SYSTEM
CONTROL CABLES
EXHAUST PIPE/MUFFLER
SUSPENSION
SWINGARM/SHOCK LINKAGE
FORK OIL
NUTS, BOLTS, FASTENERS
WHEELS/TIRES
STEERING HEAD BEARINGS
FORK TUBE/SLIDER
DAMPER
Each race
NOTERef. Page
(NOTE 1)
(NOTE 2)
(NOTE 4)
(NOTE 3)
(NOTE 3)
(NOTE 2)
(NOTE 3)
or about
2.5 hours
I
I
C
I
I
I
I
I
I,L
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I,L
I
I
I
I
Every 3
races
or about
7.5 hours
R
L
R
Every 6
races
or about
15.0 hours
I
R
R
R
R
Every 9
races
or about
22.5 hours
R
I
Every 12
races
or about
30.0 hours
6
6
27
27
25
24
30
21
21
26
39
R
39
23
24
52
54
54
53
53, 55
51
52
7
5, 28
57
55
49, 50
16, 50
75
83
58
49
47
This maintenance schedule is based upon average riding condition. Machine subjected to severe use require more frequent
servicing.
NOTE: 1.Clean after every moto for dusty riding condition.
2.Replace every 2 years. Replacement requires mechanical skill.
3.Replace after the first break-in ride.
4.Inspect after the first break-in ride.
11
4. SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
GENERAL SERVICE INFORMATION
• Perform maintenance on firm, level ground using
the optional workstand or equivalent support.
• Always install new gaskets, O-rings, cotter pins,
piston pin clips, snap rings, etc. when reassembling.
• When tightening bolts, nuts or screws, start with
the larger diameter or inner fasteners, and tighten
them to the specified torque using a crisscross
pattern.
• Use genuine Honda parts or their equivalent when
servicing your CRF.
• Clean parts in non-flammable cleaning solvent when
disassembling. Lubricate any sliding surface, Orings. and seals before reassembling.
WARNING
Gasoline or low flash point solvents are highly flam-
•
mable or explosive and must never be used for
cleaning parts or the air filter element. Fire or explosion could result.
• After reassembling, check all parts for proper installation and operation.
• Grease parts by coating or filling where specified.
NOTE :
• Specifications are listed on page 9.
BETWEEN MOTO/BETWEEN PRACTICE AND MOTO
MAINTENANCE
• Dirt = wear and weight. Clean accumulated dirt from
under fenders and off of wheels, suspension, grips,
controls and footpegs. A stiff, nylon parts cleaning
brush works well.
• Check tire air pressure.
• Check spoke tension and rim lock nut security.
• Check sprocket bolt and nut security.
• Clean chain with a stiff, nylon parts cleaning brush;
lubricate and adjust as necessary.
WARNING
Do not perform maintenance while engine is run-
•
ning. Injury to your lingers or hands may result.
•After adjustment, check that the chain adjuster index marks are in the same position on each side to
be sure the rear wheel is in proper alignment. This
is especially important for best performance from
the rear disc brake and to extend pad wear.
• Release the built-up pressure in the fork tubes (in
excess of normal atmospheric pressure: 0 psi)
caused by normal fork action while riding. The front
wheel should be suspended above ground for this
operation.
( I ) PRESSURE RELEASE SCREWS
12
(1) CHAIN ADJUSTER INDEX MARKS
AFTER RACE MAINTENANCE
It is important to the long term performance of your
CRF to properly maintain your racebike at all times. If
you envision the maintenance cycle ending as the
machine is fully prepared for practice at the next event
and beginning again after that practice, there is clearly
work to do in between. After the race is a good place
to begin your routine maintenance.
After Race Lubrication
Apply a light coating of rust-inhibiting oil to the drive
chain, drive sprocket and any steel portions of the
chassis or engine where the paint has worn away and
the exposed metal can begin to rust. Apply this
rustinhibiting oil more heavily if the event was particularly wet or muddy.
WARNING
Take care to prevent catching your fingers be-
•
tween the chain and sprocket.
A variety of reasonably priced cleaning brushes are
available from variety, drug, food and hardware stores
that are extremely useful in removing dirt from the
many tight contours of your machine.
Pressurized Spray Washers
CAUTION:
•
There are some areas on your CRF that you should
never directly aim the nozzle of a high pressure
spray washer. It is tempting to let the pressure of
the water remove all the dirt that has accumulated,
but control yourself. The force of the water under
this extreme pressure can penetrate the dust seals
of the suspension pivot points and steering head
bearings–driving dirt inside and needed lubrication
out. Avoid spraying water under the seat and fuel
tank and into the airbox as well.
1
After Cleaning Lubrication
Although you can basically follow the suggestions
given in the Maintenance section under General Maintenance (pages 14 –16), there are some things you
should do just after washing your CRF to help prevent
rust and corrosion.
Once your CRF is clean and dry, you should protect
any bare steel from rusting by applying a light coating
of a rust-inhibitor. Lubricate the drive chain and drive
sprocket after removing and thoroughly cleaning in
solvent. Be sure the chain is wiped clean and is dry
before applying the chain lube.
Follow the suggestions given in the pages of this
manual for lubricating items such as the brake and
clutch lever pivot points and footpeg pivot pins.
Routine Cleaning
If the machine is only slightly dirty, it is best to clean it
by hand with the aid of a stiff bristled nylon brush and
some clean rags. There is no reason to introduce
unnecessary moisture.
WARNING
Take care to prevent catching your fingers between
•
the chain and sprocket.
Allow enough time to completely clean and dry your
CRF to reduce the possibility of corrosion or rust.
Accumulated dirt should be loosened with a shower of
water; then brushed away with suitable brushes, soap
and water; then the machine rinsed with clean water
and wiped completely dry.
2
(1) STEERING HEAD BEARINGS
(2) SUSPENSION PIVOT POINTS
Condensation Control
Some condensation can form within the transmission
cavity as well. This is natural and just one more reason
you should change the transmission oil often.
13
4. SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
GENERAL MAINTENANCE
• Spark Plugs: Some non-resistor plugs may cause
ignition problems. Refer to the recommendations
elsewhere in this manual for specific types so you
will be sure to use the proper reach and heat range.
Replace periodically as specified in the Maintenance
Schedule. (pages 11, 25)
• Spark Plug Cap: Install a small plastic tie-wrap
around the spark plug cap to reduce any possibility
of it loosening or of water penetration.
• Engine Oil and Filter: Drain and replace engine oil
often to ensure the greatest service life of the piston, cylinder and crankshaft.
Also replace engine oil filter often to ensure the
greatest service life. Frequent changes will also assure consistent performance of power and response.
(page 21).
• Air Cleaner: Clean and oil your air cleaner regularly
because the volume of air able to pass through it
has a great effect on performance. Both engine performance and long term durability may be affected
by an air cleaner that has deteriorated and allows
dirt to pass. Inspect the air cleaner closely each time
it's serviced for evidence of small tears or seam separation. Keep a spare air cleaner oiled and ready to
install, sealed in a plastic bag. Riding in dusty conditions may require servicing the air cleaner or replacing it with a pre-serviced air cleaner between
motos. Be careful not to over oil the air cleaner. While
it is important to oil the air cleaner thoroughly, over
oiling will cause an overall rich running condition,
probably more noticeable off idle and in low rpm
performance. Follow the servicing instructions in the
Maintenance section. Use Pro Honda Foam Filter Oil
or an equivalent. Be sure to grease the air cleaner
flange where it contacts the air cleaner housing.
Honda White Lithium Grease, or an equivalent, is
handy for this because any dirt that penetrates this
sealing area will show up clearly. (page 27)
Use the Honda genuine air cleaner or an equivalent
air cleaner specified for your model.
Using the wrong Honda air cleaner or a non-Honda
air cleaner which is not of equivalent quality may
cause premature engine wear or performance problems.
14
• Transmission Oil: Drain and replace transmission oil
often to ensure the greatest service life of the transmission and clutch. Frequent changes will also assure consistent performance of both shifting and
clutch action.(page 23)
• Air Box Sealing: Remove and reseal the air cleaner
housing boot where it connects to the air cleaner
housing with silicone sealer if there is any doubt to
its sealing integrity. Use Hondalock or an equivalent on the attaching studs. Inspect the air cleaner
and air intake tract regularly for signs of deterioration or dirt penetration.
• Handgrips: Always use Honda Hand Grip Cement
(U.S.A. only) or Honda Bond A when replacing
handgrips.
Throttle grip: Align the index mark on the throttle
grip with the index mark of the throttle cable guide.
Left handlebar grip: Align the " △ " mark on the left
handlebar grip with the paint mark on the handlebar.
Refer to the Service Manual for installation instructions.
For added security, you may choose to safety wire
the hand grips to the handlebar and throttle to prevent the possibility of them loosening. Position the
twisted wire ends away from your palms and be sure
to bend the wire ends well into the grip rubber so
they will not snag your glove.
• Fuel Filter: Periodically drain the fuel from the tank,
remove and clean the fuel filter. Replace the fuel filter O-ring if there are any signs of damage or deterioration. (page 48)
• Fuel Contamination: Periodically drain the float bowl
and inspect the carburetor for contamination from
dirt. (page 62)
• Gaskets: Always use new gaskets when reassembling components.
• Cylinder Removal: Put a little grease on the cylinder mounting dowels to prevent corrosion from
dissimilar metals. The tolerances are quite tight, so
it's important to keep these dowels absolutely clean.
• Throttle Control: Remove the throttle control every
few rides, clean the inside of the drum and the
handlebar thoroughly, and apply a light coating of
silicone lubricant. Inspect the cable carefully for
kinks or other damage that may restrict throttle control in anyway. Move the handlebar from lock to lock
to be sure there is no cable interference. Check to
be sure the top of the carburetor is screwed on tight.
Make certain the throttle operation is perfect after
servicing and inspecting.
• Electrical Connectors: Clean electrical connectors
and wrap them with electrical tape to reduce the
possibility of unwanted disconnections, water
shorts or corrosion. Additional corrosion protection is offered by using Honda Dielectric Grease on
all electrical connections.
• Engine Mounting Bolts: Make sure the engine
mounting bolts are tightened to the proper torque
specification. For added peace of mind, remove the
nuts, clean the threads, and apply Honda Thread
Lock or an equivalent prior to torquing the nuts.
15
4. SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
• Suspension Linkage Lubrication: Disassemble,
clean, inspect and lubricate all pivot bearings after
each 7.5 hours of running time in order to maintain
proper suspension performance and minimize
component wear. Use Honda Moly 60 Paste (U.S.A.
only) or molybdenum disulfide paste (containing
more than 40% molybdenum disulfide additive).
• Swingarm Pivot Lubrication: Clean, inspect and lubricate when servicing suspension linkage pivots.
Be sure all of the suspension pivot seals are in good
condition. Use Honda Moly 60 Paste (U.S.A. only)
or molybdenum disulfide paste (containing more
than 40% molybdenum disulfide additive).
• Swingarm: Do not attempt to weld or otherwise repair a damaged swingarm. Welding will weaken the
swingarm.
• Footpegs: Worn footpeg teeth can be repaired by
filing the grooves between the teeth with a triangular-shaped file. Be aware that filing them too
sharp will reduce boot sole lifespan. Sharpen only
the points of the teeth. Filing the grooves deeper
will weaken the footpegs. Be sure the pegs are free
to pivot freely and that the pivot pin retaining cotter pins are in good condition.
• Brake Fluid Replacement: Replace the hydraulic fluid
in the brake system every two years.
• Water Pump Inspection Hole: After every race, check
the inspection hole, located just below the water
pump cover on the right crankcase cover. Clean away
any clogged dirt or sand, if necessary. Look for coolant or oil leakage. Leaking coolant indicates a worn
or damaged water seal. Leaking oil indicates a bad
transmission oil seal. If replacement is necessary,
both seals should be replaced.
• Brake Caliper Inspection: Be sure both front and rear
calipers are able to move freely on the caliper bracket
pins. Check pad thickness periodically and replace
when minimum thickness is reached.
• Steering Head Bearings: Periodically clean, inspect
and regrease the steering head bearings―especially
if wet, muddy or extremely dusty courses are encountered often.
• Fork Oil/Performance: Disassemble, clean and inspect the fork and replace the oil regularly. Contamination due to the tiny metal particles produced from
the normal action of the fork, as well as normal oil
breakdown, will deteriorate the performance of the
suspension. Refer to the Honda Service Manual. Use
only Pro Honda HP Fork Oil 5W or equivalent which
contains special additives to assure maximum performance of your CRF's front suspension.
Frame: Because your CRF is a high-performance machine, the frame should not be overlooked as part
of your overall competition maintenance program.
Periodically inspect the frame closely for possible
cracking or other damage. It makes good racing
sense.
• Spokes: Check spoke tension frequently between the
first few rides. As the spokes, nipples and rim contact points seat-in, the spokes may need to be retightened. Once past this initial seating-in period,
the spokes should hold their tension. Still, be sure
your race maintenance program includes checking
spoke tension and overall wheel condition on a regular basis. (page 49)
• Nuts, Bolts, Etc.: Application of a thread locking
agent to essential fasteners offers added assurance
and security. Remove the nuts, clean the threads of
both the nuts and bolts, apply Honda Thread Lock
or an equivalent and tighten to the specified torque.
16
MAINTENANCE PREPARATIONS
SEAT
Seat Removal
1. Remove the seat bolts and collars.
2. Slide the seat back.
Seat Installation
1. Slide the seat front prong onto the seat bracket and
the seat rear prongs onto the tabs by pushing down
and forward on the seat in each of these areas.
2. Install the collars and tighten the seat bolts.
TORQUE: 20 lbf・ft (26 N・m, 2.7 kgf・m)
FUEL TANK
Fuel Tank Removal
1. Turn the fuel valve OFF.
2. Remove the seat (this page).
3. Remove the shroud A bolts and collars.
4. Remove the shroud B bolts, collars and shrouds.
(1) SHROUD A BOLTS/COLLARS
(2) SHROUD B BOLTS/COLLARS
(3) SHROUD
5. Pull the breather tube out of the steering stem nut.
6. Unhook and remove the fuel tank band.
7. Remove the fuel tank bolt.
(1) BREATHER TUBE
(2) FUEL TANK BAND
(3) FUEL TANK BOLT
17
4. SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
8. Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel valve.
The fuel line leading to the carburetor must be disconnected, not the fuel line leading to the fuel tank.
9. Remove the fuel valve bolt and fuel valve.
10. Remove the fuel tank.
WARNING
Gasoline is extremely flammable and is explosive
•
under certain conditions. Perform this operation in
a well-ventilated area with the engine stopped. Do
not smoke or allow flames or sparks in the area
where gasoline is drained or stored and where the
fuel tank is refueled.
(1) FUEL LINE(2) FUEL VALVE
(3) FUEL VALVE BOLT
Fuel Tank Installation
1. Install the fuel tank on the frame.
2. Install the fuel valve and fuel valve bolt.
3. Connect the fuel line.
(1) FUEL VALVE(2) FUEL VALVE BOLT
(3) FUEL LINE
4. Install the fuel tank bolt.
5. Hook the fuel tank band.
6. Put the breather tube in the steering stem nut.
(1) BREATHER TUBE
7. Install the shrouds, collars and shroud B bolts.
8. Install the collars and shroud A bolts.
18
(1) FUEL TANK BOLT
(2) FUEL TANK BAND
(1) SHROUD
(2) SHROUD B BOLTS/COLLARS
(3) SHROUD A BOLTS/COLLARS
9. Install the seat (page 17)
SUBFRAME
Subframe Removal
1. Remove the seat (page 17).
2. Remove the side cover bolts, collars and side covers.
(1) SEAT
(2) SIDE COVER BOLTS/COLLARS
(3) SIDE COVER
3. Loosen the muffler clamp bolt.
4. Remove the muffler A bolt, muffler B bolt/washer
and muffler.
5. Disconnect the crankcase breather tube.
6. Loosen the screw on the air cleaner connecting tube
clamp.
7. Remove the subframe mounting A bolts and
subframe mounting B bolt. Then remove the
subframe by pulling it straight backward.
Subframe Installation
1. Loosely attach the upper and lower ends of the
subframe to the mainframe while connecting the
air cleaner connecting tube to the carburetor. Then
align the subframe with the rear wheel and tighten
the subframe mounting B bolt and subframe mounting A bolts.
TORQUE:
B bolt: 22 lbf・ft (30 N・m, 3.1 kgf・m)
A bolt: 36 lbf・ft (49 N・m, 5.0 kgf・m)
(1) SUBFRAME
(2) SUBFRAME MOUNTING B BOLT
(3) SUBFRAME MOUNTING A BOLTS
(1) MUFFLER CLAMP BOLT
(2) MUFFLER A BOLT
(3) MUFFLER B BOLT/WASHER
(4) MUFFLER
(1) SUBFRAME MOUNTING A BOLTS
(2) SUBFRAME MOUNTING B BOLT
(3) SUBFRAME
19
4. SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
2. Tighten the screw on the air cleaner connecting tube
clamp.
5. Install the muffler clamp and new gasket to exhaust
pipe.
6. Install the muffler.
7. Install the muffler clamp by aligning the tab of the
muffler clamp with the cut-out of the muffler.
1
4
3
2
(1) MUFFLER(2) MUFFLER CLAMP
(3) TAB(4) CUT–OUT
8. Tighten the muffler B bolt and muffler A bolt.
TORQUE: 16 lbf・ft (22 N・m, 2.2 kgf・m)
9. Tighten the muffler clamp bolt.
10. Install the side covers, side cover bolts and collars.
11. Install the seat (page 17).
(1) SIDE COVER
(2) SIDE COVER BOLTS/COLLARS
(3) SEAT
(1) MUFFLER CLAMP(2) GASKET
20
TORQUE: 15 lbf・ft (21 N・m, 2.1 kgf・m)
(1) MUFFLER
(2) MUFFLER B BOLT
(3) MUFFLER A BOLT
(4) MUFFLER CLAMP BOLT
MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES
ENGINE OIL
Inspecting and Adding Engine Oil
1. Run the engine at idling for a few minutes, then shut
it off.
2. Wait three minutes after shutting off the engine to
allow the oil to properly distribute itself in the engine.
3. Support the CRF in an upright position on a level
surface.
4. Check that the oil level is between the upper and
lower level marks in the inspection window.
• If the oil is at or near the upper level mark, you
do not have to add oil.
• If the oil is below or near the lower level mark,
remove the engine oil filler cap and add the recommended oil until it reaches the upper level
mark. (Do not overfill)
Reinstall the engine oil filler cap.
Repeat steps 1–4.
5. Check for oil leaks.
Replacing Engine Oil and Filter
1. Run the engine at idling for a few minutes, then shut
it off.
2. Support the CRF in an upright position on a level
surface.
3. Remove the engine oil filler cap from the left crankcase cover.
4. Place an oil drain pan under the engine to catch the
oil. Then remove the engine oil drain bolt and sealing washer.
5. With the engine stop button pushed, repeat
kickstarter operation approximately 5 times to drain
the engine oil completely.
6. After the oil has drained, install the engine oil drain
bolt with a new sealing washer.
TORQUE: 12 lbf・ft (16 N・m, 1.6 kgf・m)
8. Remove the left engine guard bolt and left engine
guard.
(1) LEFT ENGINE GUARD BOLT
(2) LEFT ENGINE GUARD
9. Remove the oil filter cover bolts and oil filter cover.
10. Remove the oil filter from the cover.
11. Check that the oil filter cover O-ring is in good condition.
3
4
(1) UPPER LEVEL MARK
(2) LOWER LEVEL MARK
(3) INSPECTION WINDOW
(4) ENGINE OIL FILLER CAP
7. It is recommended to replace the oil and filter every
6 races or about every 15.0 hours. However, if you
replace only the oil before the recommended
interval, see step 15 (page 22).
13. Position the spring against the engine crankcase and
install a new oil filter with the rubber seal facing
out, away from the engine. You should see the ”OUTSIDE” mark on the filter body, near the seal.
Use a new genuine Honda oil filter or a filter of equal
quality specified for your model.
CAUTION:
•
If the oil filter is not installed properly, it will cause
serious engine damage.
14. Install the oil filter cover, then tighten the oil filter
cover bolts.
TORQUE: 7 lbf・ft (10 N・m, 1.0 kgf・m)
1
2
3
6
4
5
16. Fill the crankcase with the recommended oil.
capacity: 0.73 US qt (0.69 liter, 0.61 Imp qt)
17. Install the engine oil filler cap.
18. Check the engine oil level by following the steps in
Inspecting and Adding Engine Oil (page 21).
Recommended Engine Oil
Use Pro Honda GN4, HP4 (without molybdenum additives) or HP4M (with molybdenum additives) 4-stroke
oill, or an equivalent.*
API
classification
viscosity
(weight)
JASO T 903
* Suggested oils are equal in performance to SJ oils
that are not labeled as energy conserving on the circular API service label.
• Your CRF does not need oil additives. Use recom-
mended oil.
• Do not use API SH or higher oils displaying a circular
API ”energy conserving” label on the container. They
may affect lubrication.
at oil and filter change
0.70 US qt (0.66 liter, 0.58 Imp qt)
at oil change
SG or higher except oils labeled as
energy conserving on the circular
API service label
SAE 10W-40
MA or MB
Other viscosities shown in the chart below may be used
when the average temperature in your riding area is
within the indicated range.
JASO T 903 standard
The JASO T 903 standard is an index to choose engine
oils for 4-stroke motorcycle engines.
There are two classes: MA and MB.
Oil conforming to the standard has the following classification on the oil container.
7
(1) SPRING
(2) OIL FILTER
(3) RUBBER SEAL
(4) OUT-SIDE MARK
(5) O-RING
(6) OIL FILTER COVER
(7) OIL FILTER COVER BOLTS
15. Install the left engine guard and left engine guard
bolt.
22
NOT RECOMMENDEDOK
CAUTION:
•
Oil is a major factor affecting the performance and
service life of the engine.
Nondetergent, vegetable, or castor based racing oils
are not recommended.
(1) CODE NUMBER OF THE SALES COMPANY OF THE
OIL
(2) OIL CLASSIFICATION
TRANSMISSION OIL
API
classification
4-stroke oil performance
SG or higher except oils labeled as
energy conserving on the circular
API service label
SAE 10W-40
MA
viscosity
(weight)
without friction modifiers as
molybdenum additives
others
JASO T 903
Inspecting and Adding Transmission Oil
1. Run the engine at idling for a few minutes, then shut
it off.
2. Wait three minutes after shutting off the engine to
allow the oil to properly distribute itself in the clutch
and transmission.
3. Support the CRF in an upright position on a level
surface.
4. Remove the transmission oil filler cap and oil check
bolt from the right crankcase cover. A small amount
of oil should flow out of the oil check bolt hole. Allow any excess oil to flow out of the oil check bolt
hole.
If no oil flows out of the oil check bolt hole, add oil
slowly through the transmission oil filler hole until
oil start to flow out of the oil check bolt hole.
Install the oil check bolt and transmission oil filler
cap. Repeat step 1–4.
5. After inspection the oil level or adding oil, tighten
the oil check bolt and transmission oil filler cap securely.
1. Run the engine for three minutes, then shut if off.
2. Support the CRF in an upright position on a level
surface.
3. Remove the transmission oil filler cap from the right
crankcase cover
4. Place an oil drain pan under the engine to catch the
oil. Then remove the transmission oil drain bolt and
sealing washer.
5. After the oil has drained, install the transmission oil
drain bolt with a new sealing washer.
TORQUE: 16 lbf・ft (22 N・m, 2.2 kgf・m)
6. Fill the crankcase with recommended oil.
capacity: 0.62 US qt (0.59 liter, 0.52 Imp qt)
at oil change
7. Check the transmission oil level by following the
steps in Inspecting and Adding Transmission Oil (this
page).
Recommended Transmission Oil
Use Pro Honda HP Trans Oil, Pro Honda GN4 or HP4
(without molybdenum additives) 4-stroke oil, or an
equivalent.*
* Suggested oils are equal in performance to SJ oils
that are not labeled as energy conserving on the circular API service label.
• Your CRF does not need oil additives. Use recommended oil.
• Do not use oils with graphite or molybdenum additives. They may adversely affect clutch operation.
• Do not use API SH or higher oils displaying a circular
API ”energy conserving” label on the container. They
may affect lubrication and clutch performance.
(1) TRANSMISSION OIL FILLER CAP
(2) OIL CHECK BOLT
Oil is a major factor affecting the performance and
service life of the transmission and clutch.
Nondetergent, vegetable, or castor based racing oils
are not recommended.
23
4. SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Other viscosities shown in the chart below may be used
when the average temperature in your riding area is
with in the indicated range.
JASO T 903 standard
The JASO T 903 standard is an index to choose engine
oils for 4-stroke motorcycle engines.
There are two classes: MA and MB.
Oil conforming to the standard has the following classification on the oil container.
1
2
(1) CODE NUMBER OF THE SALES COMPANY OF THE
OIL
(2) OIL CLASSIFICATION
COOLANT
Coolant Recommendation
Use Pro Honda HP coolant or an equivalent high quality ethylene glycol based anti-freeze containing corrosion protection inhibitors specifically recommended for
use in aluminum engines (See anti-freeze container label).
CAUTION:
•
Hard water or salt water is harmful to aluminum.
The factory provides a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and
water in your CRF. This mixture is recommended
for most operating temperatures and provides good
corrosion protection. A higher concentration of antifreeze decreases the cooling system performance
and is recommended only when additional protection against freezing is needed. Using less than 40%
anti-freeze will not provide proper cooling or corrosion protection.
•
Using coolant with silicate inhibitors may cause premature wear of water pump seals or blockage of
radiator passages. Using tap water may cause engine damage.
Coolant Level
WARNING
•
Never remove the radiator cap when the engine is
hot. The coolant is under pressure and severe scalding could result.
1. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap and
check coolant level. The coolant level is correct when
it is at the bottom of the radiator filler neck.
2. Add coolant up to the filler neck if the level is low.
NOTE :
• Inspect the coolant level before each outing. A
coolant loss of 0.7 – 2.0 US oz (20 – 60 cm
Imp, oz) through the over flow tube is normal. If
coolant loss is more than this, inspect the cooling
system .
Capacity: 1.18 US qt (1.12 Iiter, 0.99 Imp qt)
at disassembly
1.09 US qt (1.03 Iiter, 0.91 Imp qt)
at coolant change
3. Install the radiator cap securely.
3
, 0.7 – 2.1
CAUTION:
•
If the radiator cap is not installed properly, it will
cause excessive coolant loss and may result in overheating and engine damage.
Cooling System Inspection
1. Check the cooling system for leaks (see the Honda
Service Manual for troubleshooting of leaks).
2. Check water hoses for cracks, deterioration, and
clamp bands for looseness.
3. Check the radiator mount for looseness.
4. Make sure the overflow tube is connected and not
clogged.
5. Check the radiator fins for clogging.
6. Check the water leakage check hole below the water pump for leakage. Make sure the hole remains
open. If water leaks through the check hole, the water
pump seal is damaged. If oil leaks through the check
hole, the transmission oil seal is damaged. See the
Honda Service Manual or consult your authorized
Honda dealer for replacing the water pump seal or
the transmission oil seal. Both seals should be replaced at the same time.
24
(1) RADIATOR CAP
2
1
SPARK PLUG
Standard:
(NGK) IFR8H11
(DENSO) VK24PRZ11
For extended high
speed riding:
(NGK) IFR9H11
(DENSO) VK27PRZ11
If replacing with any other brand of spark plug, be certain to select the correct reach and heat range. Before
removing the spark plug, clean the spark plug area thoroughly to prevent dirt from entering the cylinder.
1. Remove the fuel tank (page 17).
2. Disconnect the spark plug cap.
3. Remove the spark plug.
2
CAUTION:
•
The use of a spark plug of the incorrect reach or
heat range can cause engine damage. The use of a
non-resistor spark plug may cause ignition problems.
2
This motorcycle uses spark plug that have an iridium
tip in center electrode and a platinum tip in side electrode .
Be sure to observe the following when servicing the
spark plug.
• Do not clean the spark plug. If an electrode is con-
taminated with accumulated objects or dirt, replace
the spark plug with a new one.
• Use only a “wire-type feeler gauge” to check the
spark plug if necessary. To prevent damaging the
iridium tip of the center electrode and platinum tip
of the side electrode, never use a leaf-type feeler
gauge.
(1) SPARK PLUG CAP
(2) SPARK PLUG
4. Check the electrode for wear or deposits, the gasket
for damage, and the insulator for cracks. Replace if
you detect them.
5. Check the spark plug gap, using a wire-type feeler
gauge. If the gap is out of specifications, replace the
plug with a new one.
The recommended spark plug gap is:
0.039 – 0.043 in (1.0 – 1.1 mm)
(1) OVERFLOW TUBE
(2) WATER HOSE
(3) WATER PUMP COVER
(4) WATER LEAKAGE CHECK HOLE
(1) SPARK PLUG GAP
(2) SEALING GASKET
25
4. SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
6. To obtain accurate spark plug readings, accelerate
up to speed on a straightaway. Push the engine stop
button and disengage the clutch by pulling the lever in.
Coast to a stop, then remove and inspect the spark
plug. The porcelain insulator around the center electrode should appear tan or medium gray.
NOTE:
• If you're using a new plug, ride for at least ten minutes before taking a plug reading; a brand-new plug
will not color initially.
If the electrodes appear burnt, or the insulator is white
or light gray (lean) or the electrodes and insulator are
black or fouled (rich), there is a problem elsewhere (page
70).
Check the carburetor, fuel system and ignition timing.
7. Install the spark plug by hand until finger tight, then
tighten with a wrench until the sealing gasket is compressed ( 1/2 turn to compress a new spark plug gasket, 1/8 – 1/4 turn to compress a spark plug with a
used gasket).
8. Connect the spark plug cap.
9. Install the fuel tank (page 18)
IGNITION
A CDI (Capacitive Discharge Ignition ) system is used
on your CRF; consequently, routine ignition timing adjustment is unnecessary. If you want to check the ignition timing, refer to the Honda Service Manual.
ENGINE IDLE SPEED
Adjustment Procedure
1. Turn the pilot screw in until it is lightly seated and
record the number of turns. Turn the pilot screw out
the same number of turns.
(1) PILOT SCREW
2. If the engine is cold, start it and warm it up 3 minutes. Then shut it off.
3. Connect a tachometer to the engine.
4. Shift into neutral. Start the engine.
5. Keep the motorcycle in an upright position.
6. Adjust idle speed with the throttle stop screw.
Idle speed:
1,700 ± 100 rpm
26
(1) THROTTLE STOP SCREW
CRANKCASE BREATHER
Service more frequently if your motorcycle is ridden in
the rain or often at full throttle.
Service the breather if you can see deposits in the transparent section of the drain tube.
1. Remove the crankcase breather tube plug from the
tube and drain deposits.
2. Reinstall the crankcase breather tube plug.
AIR CLEANER
The air cleaner uses polyurethane inner and outer pieces
which cannot be separated.
A dirty air cleaner will reduce engine power.
To clean the air cleaner:
1. Remove the seat (page 17).
2. Loosen the air cleaner retaining bolt.
3. Align the two access top tabs of the air cleaner and
”Δ” mark of the air cleaner housing by rotating the
air cleaner counterclockwise.
5. Remove the air cleaner from the air cleaner holder.
56
2
3
4
(1) CRANKCASE BREATHER TUBE PLUG
(2) TUBE
4
3
(1) AIR CLEANER
(2) AIR CLEANER RETAINING BOLT
(3) TWO ACCESS TOP TABS
(4) ”Δ” MARK
4. Remove the air cleaner with the retaining bolt, keeping the two access top tabs up.
2
1
1
(1) AIR CLEANER HOLDER(2) AIR CLEANER
(3) AIR CLEANER RETAINING BOLT
(4) HOLE
(5) HOLDER TAB (6) AIR CLEANER TAB
6. Wash the air cleaner in clean non-flammable cleaning solvent. Then wash in hot, soapy water, rinse
well, and allow to dry thoroughly.
7. Clean the inside of the air cleaner housing.
WARNING
•
Never use gasoline or low flash point solvents for
cleaning the air cleaner. A fire or explosion could
result.
NOTE :
• The air cleaner is made in two pieces: inner and
outer, which cannot be separated.
8. Allow the air cleaner to dry thoroughly. After drying, soak the air cleaner in clean Pro Honda Foam
Filter Oil or an equivalent air cleaner oil.
Apply air cleaner oil to the entire surface, inner and
outer, and rub it with both hands to saturate the air
cleaner with oil. Squeeze out excess oil.
9. Apply a thin coat of white lithium grease to the sealing surface.
10. Assemble the air cleaner and holder.
Install the tab of the holder in the hole of the air
cleaner tab, and the air cleaner retaining bolt through
the assembly.
27
4. SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
11. Install the assembly into the air cleaner housing
keeping the two access top tabs up.
12. Carefully position the sealing flange of the element
to prevent dirt intrusion.
13. Align the set tab of the air cleaner with the ”Δ” mark
of the air cleaner housing by rotating the air cleaner
clockwise. Tighten the retaining bolt securely.
CAUTION:
•
If the air cleaner assembly is not installed correctly,
dirt and dust may enter the engine resulting in rapid
wear of the piston rings and cylinder.
53
2
41
(1) AIR CLEANER(2) SET TAB
(3) ”Δ” MARK(4) RETAINING BOLT
(5) TWO ACCESS TOP TABS
CLUTCH
Operation
1. Check for smooth clutch lever operation.
Lubricate the clutch lever pivot or clutch cable if operation is not smooth.
2. Check the clutch cable for deterioration, kinks or
damage.
Clutch Disc/Plate Removal
Drain the transmission oil (page 23).
Remove the rear brake pedal by removing its pivot bolt.
(1) REAR BRAKE PEDAL(2) PIVOT BOLT
Remove the six clutch cover bolts and cover.
Remove the six clutch spring bolts and clutch springs.
NOTE:
• Loosen the bolts in a crisscross pattern in 2 or 3
progressive steps.
Remove the clutch pressure plate.
(1) CLUTCH SPRING BOLT
(2) CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE
Remove the clutch lifter and clutch lifter rod.
Remove the eight clutch discs and seven clutch plates.
NOTE:
• Turn the lifter bearing plate of the clutch lifter bearing with your finger. The bearing plate should turn
smoothly and quietly. Discard the clutch lifter if the
bearing plate does not turn smoothly.
28
(1) CLUTCH COVER BOLTS
(2) CLUTCH COVER
(1) CLUTCH LIFTER(3) CLUTCH PLATES AND
(2) CLUTCH LIFTER RODDISCS
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