Bernina Bernette 48 operation manual

Instruction Manual

TABLE OF CONTENTS

NAME OF PARTS

Details of machine 7

ACCESSORIES

Standard 9

Needle Information 9

HOW TO OPEN LOOPER COVER

Principal Parts behind the Looper Cover 10

Threading Diagram Overlock and Chainstitches 21

Threading Diagram Coverstitches 21

Threading the Upper Looper (Blue) 22

Threading the Lower Looper (Red) 23

Threading the Chainstitch/ Coverstitch Looper (Violet) 25

Threading the Overlock Right Needle (Green) 27

Threading the Overlock Left Needle (Yellow) 28

Threading the Coverstitch Needles 30

PREPARATION TO SEWING

Power Switch 10

Foot Controller 10

Cut-offs Bin 11

PREPARATION FOR THREADING

Setting up the Retractable thread stand 12

Spool net 12

Spool Cap 12

HOW TO DISENGAGE UPPER KNIFE

UPPER LOOPER CONVERTER (ULC)

Use the upper looper converter 14

Disengage to upper looper 14

STANDARD OVERLOCK AND ROLLED HEM STITCHING

Sew Standard Overlock 14

Sew Rolled Hem 15

HOW TO CHANGE THREADS

Tie on method 35

HOW TO ADJUST THE STITCH LENGTH

Stitch lenght dial 36

HOW TO ADJUST THE SEAM WIDTH

Width adjustment by changing needle position 36

Cutting cutting width dial 36

HOW TO ADJUST THE PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE

Presser foot pressure wheel 37

DIFFERENTIAL FEED

Gathered Overlock (1–2.0) 38

Stretch Overlock (1–0.6) 39

CHAINING OFF AND TEST SEWING

Information 40

HOW TO REMOVE AND INSERT NEEDLES

Needle Position 15

To Remove Needle(s) 16

To Insert Needle(s) 16

SELECTION OF STITCHES

THREADING THE MACHINE

List of abbreviations 19

Threading Chart Summary 20

Threading Diagram Overlock Stitches 21

HOW TO SEW A Chainstitch

2-Thread Chainstitch 41

Machine set up 42

HOW TO SEW A OVERLOCK STITCH

2-Thread Wrapped Overlock 43

2-Thread Overlock 44

2-Thread Flatlock 45

3-Thread Overlock 46

3-Thread Flatlock 47

3-Thread Super Stretch 48

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4-Thread Overlock with integrated safety seam 49

2-Thread Overlock & Chain 50

3-Thread Overlock & Chain 51

HOW TO SEW A Coverstitch

Machine set up 52

Additional Information about Coverstitch 53

3-Thread Coverstitch 54

4-Thread Coverstitch 55

Securing the seam end 56

HOW TO SEW A ROLLED HEM

Machine set up 57

Additional information about rolled hemming 58

3-Thread Narrow Seam 59

3-Thread Rolled Hem 59

2-Thread Rolled Hem 60

STITCH VARIATIONS AND SEWING TECHNIQUES

How To Sew A Flatlock Decorative Seam 61

How to sew an Overlock Blind Hem 63

How to sew Pin Tucks 63

How to turning Square Corners 64

How to Reinforce a Seam 66

SPECIFICATION

Technical Summary 74

MACHINE MAINTENANCE

Cleaning The Machine 67

Oiling The Machine 67

Replace the Upper Knife 68

OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES

Snap-On Type Presser Foot 69

Optional Overlock Presser Foot 70

Optional Cover Presser Foot 71

TROUBLESHOOTING

Overview 72

FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE CHART

Overview 73

IMPORTANT

Precautions should always be followed, including the following:

Read all the instructions before using this machine.

In general when the machine is not in use, it should be disconnected from the electricity supply.

DANGER!

As a protection against electrical shock:

1. The machine should never be left unattended when plugged in.

2. Always unplug this machine from the electrical outlet after using and before cleaning.

3. LED Radiation. Do not view directly with optical instruments. Class 1M LED product.

WARNING!

As a protection against burns, ﬁre, electric shock or injury to persons:

1. Use this machine only for purposes as described in this manual. Use only attachments, accessories and parts recommended by the manufacturer.

2. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this machine is used by or near children. The machine is not intended for use by persons (and children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge. Unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the machine by a person responsible for their safety. To ensure children do not play with

the machine they must be supervised.

Never operate this machine if:

⦁

the cord or the plug are damaged,

⦁

it is not working properly,

⦁

it has been dropped or damaged,

⦁

it has fallen into water.

3. Return the machine to your local authorized BERNINA dealer for examination or repair.

4. Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine free from the accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.

5. Keep ﬁngers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing needle and the knife.

6. Never insert any objects into any openings on the machine.

7. Do not use the machine outdoors.

8. Do not operate the machine where

aerosol products (sprays) or oxygen are being used.

9. Do not pull or push the fabric while stitching. This can result in needle breakage.

10. Switch the machine off «0» when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading the needle, changing the needle, threading the looper, or changing the presser foot.

11. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, when covers are opened to raise the knife or thread the loopers, when lubricating or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

12. Do not use bent needles.

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13. Always use the original BERNINA stitch plate. The wrong stitch plate can cause needle breakage.

14. This machine is provided with double insulation (except for USA and Canada). Use only original spare parts. See instructions for servicing of double-insulated products.

15. Use only foot controller provided with this machine. (Type 4C-316B for USA & CANADA only).

WARNING:

This machine is intended for household use only. If used intensively or commercially, regular cleaning and especially attentive care is required.

Signs of wear and tear owing to intensive or commercial use are not covered automatically, even if they occur within the warranty period. The decision on how to deal with any such cases rests with the local authorised servicing staff.

For technical and product improvement reasons, the machine‘s features, parts and accessory are subject to unannounced changes and alterations at any time. The accessory included can differ from country to country.

SERVICING OF DOUBLE–INSULATED PRODUCTS

In a double–insulated product two systems of insulation are provided instead of grounding. No grounding means is provided on a double–insulated product, nor should a means for grounding be added to the product. Servicing a double– insulated product requires extreme care and knowledge of the system and should be done only by qualiﬁed service personnel. Replacement parts for a double–insulated product must be identical to the original parts in the product. A double–insulated product is marked with the words: «Double insulation» or «Double insulated».

The symbol may also mark such a product.

PLEASE NOTE:

If the machine is stored in a cold room, it should be brought to a warm room about one hour before use.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS!

Europe only: This appliance may only be used by children over eight and by persons with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or by persons who lack experience and knowledge of how to operate the machine under supervision, after instruction on how to use the equipment safely and once they have understood the potential dangers. Children shall not play with the appliance. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made by children without supervision.

Outside of Europe (except for the USA and Canada): This appliance may only be used by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or by persons who lack experience and knowledge of how to operate the machine under supervision and after instruction on how to use the equipment safely by a person responsible for their safety. Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.

NAME OF PARTS

Details of machine

Retractable thread stand

Carrying handle

Left needle thread tension lever (yellow)

Right needle thread tension dial (green)

Upper looper thread tension dial (blue)

Lower looper thread tension dial (red)

Chainstitch looper thread tension dial (violet)

Stitch plate

Sewing table

Looper cover

Power / Light switch

Stitch length dial

Handwheel

Thread stand

Spool stabilizer

Spool pin

Cut-offs Bin

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Presser foot lifter

Differential feed dial

Cutting width dial

Presser foot pressure wheel

Standard presser foot Overlock/Coverstitch

ACCESSORIES

Standard

Screw driver (large size)

Oiler

Spool net (5x)

Spare upper knife

Spool cap (5x)

Brush

Needle set (ELx705)

Needle Threader / inserter

Allen screw driver (small)

Tweezers

Upper looper converter (ULC)

Spool stabilizer (5x)

Dust cover

Cut-offs Bin

Cover-/Chainstitch Insert

Needle Information

This overlock uses a ﬂat shank industrial needle (ELx705).

Do not attempt to use a standard household sewing machine needle of any size or type in this overlock.

Needle ELx705 size 80/12 is furnished with the machine.

Only use needles of system ELx705 sizes 70/10

- 90/14 .

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OFF

HOW TO OPEN LOOPER COVER

CAUTION:

Be sure to turn off power switch.

1. Push the cover to the right as far as it will go.

2. Pull cover down toward you.

CAUTION:

Be sure looper cover is closed when sewing.

Principal Parts behind the Looper Cover

(1) Upper looper (2) Upper knife (moveable) (3) Standard presser foot Overlock/Coverstitch (4) Fixed position lower knife (5) Lower looper (6) Chain/Cover looper (7) Rolled Hem lever (8) Upper looper clutch

PREPARATION TO SEWING

Power Switch

– Connect the controller/electric plug to the

machine receptacle.

– Plug power line into electric outlet.

– Push " l " mark side to turn "ON"

– Push "O" mark side to turn "OFF"

Foot Controller

– To run the machine and control the speed,

press the controller.

– The harder you press, the faster the machine

will sew.

– To stop the machine from sewing, remove your

foot from the controller

CAUTION:

Use only foot controller provided with this machine. (Type 4C-316B for USA & CANADA only). Be sure to make reference to “Warning” on following Page.

• Polarized plug information

(FOR USA & CANADA ONLY)

This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to ﬁt in a polarized outlet only way. If the plug does not ﬁt fully in the outlet, reverse the plug.

If it still does not ﬁt contact a qualiﬁed electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

CAUTION:

– Be sure that the electrical voltage of the

electric outlet (wall receptacle) is the same as the rated voltage of the motor.

– Handle the foot controller with care and avoid

dropping it on the ﬂoor. Be sure not to place anything on top of it when not in use.

– Disconnect the power line plug from the

electric outlet when changing needles, presser feet or when leaving the machine unattended. This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine by accidentally pressing the controller.

Cut-os Bin

• To attach

– Insert the Cut-offs Bin (1) in the looper cover. – Be sure to press the Cut-offs Bin downward (2). – Be sure the left side of Cut-offs Bin (3) is

mounted near the cutter where the scraps drop.

• Removal

– Pull the Cut-offs Bin upward as the instruction

(4).

– To remove (5), hold the Cut-offs Bin as shown

and pull it outward.

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PREPARATION FOR

THREADING

Setting up the Retractable thread stand

– Take out the retractable thread stand from the

top of Styrofoam, and insert it as shown on the left illustration.

– This machine is shipped with the retractable

thread stand on the top of styrofoam.

– Fully extend the retractable thread stand.

– The two joints on the telescope will click into

place when they are correctly positioned.

– Center the retractable thread stand above the

spool pins.

– Place thread over the cone adapters on the

spool pins.

Spool net

When using synthetic threads that easily spill off the cone, slip the spool net (1) furnished with the machine over the thread from the bottom of the cone leaving the thread end hanging free at the top the spool net.

Spool Cap

When using a regular thread spool, ﬁt the spool cap

(2) supplied with the machine onto the thread spool (3).

HOW TO DISENGAGE UPPER

KNIFE

CAUTION:

Be sure to turn off power switch.

• To place upper knife in nonworking position

– Open looper cover (refer page 10).

– Pull the upper knife holder (1) to the right as far

as it will go.

– Turn the holder (2) toward counter clockwise

until the knife clicks into a lock position.

• To place upper knife in working position

– Open looper cover.

– Pull the upper knife holder (1) to the right as far

as it will go.

– Turn the holder (2) clockwise until the knife

clicks into the working position.

CAUTION:

Always close looper cover before operating machine.

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UPPER LOOPER CONVERTER

(ULC)

CAUTION:

Be sure to turn off power switch.

When not threading the upper looper, the upper looper converter must be engaged into the upper looper eye.

Attach the Upper Looper Converter

– To engage the upper looper converter, insert

the sharp part (1) into the eye of upper looper.

– A raised point located in the trough of upper

looper converter must be inserted and ﬁxed (2) in the eye of the upper looper converter.

Remove the Upper Looper Converter

When using the upper looper, the upper looper converter must be disengaged.

– To disengage the upper looper converter, raise

the handle (3) of upper looper according to picture.

STANDARD OVERLOCK AND ROLLED HEM STITCHING

Sew Standard Overlock

Set seam width ﬁnger knob to "N" to move seam width ﬁnger to standard overlock sewing position.

PLEASE NOTE:

Be sure to push seam width ﬁnger knob as far as it will go in the direction of setting "N".

Sew Rolled Hem

Set seam width ﬁnger knob to "R" to retract the seam width ﬁnger and set it for rolled hem.

PLEASE NOTE:

Be sure to push seam width ﬁnger knob as far as it will go in the direction of setting "R".

HOW TO REMOVE AND INSERT NEEDLES

Needle Position

– With this machines, ﬁve needles can be inserted

to the needle holder as shown. Only one or two or three needles are to be used for sewing.

– Do not attempt to use four or ﬁve needles.

– The Stitch overview refers to different needle

positions by illustrating the needle holder.

PLEASE NOTE:

When both the left and right overlock needles are inserted, the left needle will be slightly higher than the right. When all coverstitch needles are inserted, the left needle will be slightly higher than the others.

(A) Left Needle (LN) (B) Right Needle (RN) (C) Left Coverstitch Needle (LC) (D) Center Coverstitch Needle (CC) (E) Right Coverstitch Needle (RC)

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To Remove Needle(s)

CAUTION:

Be sure to disconnect the machine from the electric outlet before removing needle(s).

– Turn the hand wheel counterclockwise until the

needles are at their highest position.

– Hold the needle to be removed with the needle

holder (stored in the looper cover).

– Loosen the setscrew and remove the needle.

(A) Left needle (LN) (B) Right needle (RN) (C) Left Coverstitch Needle (LC) (D) Center Coverstitch Needle (CC) (E) Right Coverstitch Needle (RC)

To Insert Needle(s)

– Hold the needle with the ﬂat surface (1) to the

back.

– Insert the needle into the needle socket as far

as it will go.

– When inserting a needle, if you ﬁrst lower it

down into the hole in the stitch plate it will line up with the needle socket. Then direct it upwards.

This machine uses ELx705 needles. Do not use Standard Household Needles.

PLEASE NOTE:

When inserting needles into the (A,B) or (C, D,

E) sockets it is necessary to loosen (3) all Allen

Screws. After inserting the needles equally tighten all Screws (2).

STITCH OVERVIEW

This machine is capable of producing various types of stitches according to the combination of needle positions, threading methods, tension adjustment and the use of upper looper converter ULC.

Stitch Type Use

4–Thread Overlock with integrated

safety seam

3–Thread Super Stretch

3–Thread Overlock wide

3–Thread Overlock narrow

3–Thread Flatlock wide

3–Thread Flatlock narrow

3–Thread Narrow Seam

3–Thread Rolled Hem

2–Thread Wrapped Overlock wide

2–Thread Wrapped Overlock narrow

2–Thread Flatlock wide

2–Thread Flatlock narrow

2–needle 4–Thread stitch that is ideal for medium to heavyweight stretchy fabrics such as double knits and swim wear.

2–needle 3–Thread stitch that is ideal for light weight, extremely stretchy fabrics such as tricot and spandex.

1–needle 3–Thread stitch is used for overedging and seaming on common fabrics.

A 4 mm and 6 mm overlock seam width can be obtained by changing the needle position.

1–needle 3–Thread stitch is used for butted or lapped seams and ornamental stitching with decorative thread.

Also a 4 mm and 6 mm ﬂatlock width can be obtained by changing the needle position.

1–needle 3–thread stitch is for edging light weight fabrics.

1–needle 2–thread stitch is used for sewing narrow rolled hems.

For a beautiful rolled hem, thread the upper looper with decorative thread and the needle and lower looper with light weight regular thread.

1–needle 2–Thread stitch is used for seaming light weight or stretch fabrics.

A 4 mm and 6 mm overlock seam width can be obtained by changing the needle position.

1–needle 2–Thread stitch is used for butted or lapped seams and ornamental stitching with decorative thread.

Also a 4 mm and 6 mm ﬂatlock width can be obtained by changing the needle position.

Page

2–Thread Rolled Hem

2–Thread Overlock wide

2–Thread Overlock narrow

2-Thread Chainstitch

1–needle 2–thread stitch is used for ﬁne rolled hems.

1–needle 2–Thread stitch is used for overedging common fabrics.

A 4 mm and 6 mm overlock seam width can be obtained by changing the needle position.

1-needle 2-Thread straight stitch is used for construction or decorative stitching.

Seams also can be sewn at desired distance from edge of fabric by disengaging the upper looper and movable knife.

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Stitch Type Use

The 5-Thread stitch is a safety stitch made up of combined 3-Thread overlock and double

3-Thread Overlock & Chain wide

17 18

3-Thread Overlock & Chain narrow

2-Thread Overlock & Chain wide

2-Thread Overlock & Chain narrow

4-Thread Coverstitch

3-Thread Coverstitch wide

3-Thread Coverstitch narrow

chainstitch.

A wide seam is formed by using left needle.

Overlock and seaming can be done in one operation on non-stretch fabrics.

The 4-Thread stitch is a safety stitch made up of combined 2-Thread overlock and double chainstitch.

A wide seam is formed by using left needle.

Overlock and seaming can be done in one operation on non-stretch fabrics.

3-needle, 4-Thread coverstitch is suitable for stretchy fabrics such as knits, etc.

A triple seam is formed by using left, middle, and right needles.

2-needle, 3-Thread cover stitch is suitable for stretchy fabrics such as knits, etc.

A wide seam is formed by using left and right needles.

A narrow seam is formed by using left and center needles.

Page

Depending on the needle positions used, this machine can sew 2-/3- and 4-Thread Overlock Stitches at a width of 4mm and 6 mm.

Also, for overedging heavyweight fabrics, the seam width can be increased still more by turning the cutting width dial. (Refer page 36)

Overlock width 4.0 mm 6.0 mm

Needle used Overlock right needle Overlock left needle

Needle tread tension dial Green Yell ow

The thread tension becomes tighter as the dials are tumed to higher numbers. The tension settings shown on this page as well as throughout the Instruction book are suggested guides. Adjust thread tensions to suit the fabric and size of thread of thread used. For best results make tension adjustments in small increments of no greater than half a number at a time.

– When sewing chainstitches, set stitch length to

over 2 mm.

– When sewing coverstitches, set stitch length to

over "•" (2.5 mm).

Machine Setting

SL = Stitchlength DF = Differential Dial CW = Cutting Width KG = Knife Guard (for Overlock Stitches) CSI = Cover/Chainstitch Inserter (for Cover-/Chainstitches) RHP = Rollhemlever Position

Thread Tension Color Code

yellow = (LN, LC, CC) green = (RN, LN) blue = (UL, RC) red = (LL) violet = (CL)

THREADING THE MACHINE

List of abbreviations

Needles and Loopers

LN = Left Needle RN = Right Needle

LC = Left Coverstitch Needle for CS CC = Center Coverstitch Needle for CS RC = Right Coverstitch Needle for CS CS = Chain-/Coverstitches

UL = Upper Looper

ULC = Upper Looper Converter LL = Lower Looper CL = Cover-/Chainstitch Looper

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Threading Chart Summary

Stitch Type

SL DF KG/CSI CW RHP NP Yellow Green Blue Red Violet

Machine Settings Thread Tension

4-Thread Overlock with integrated

safety seam

3-Thread Super Stretch

3-Thread Overlock wide

3-Thread Overlock narrow

3-Thread Flatlock wide

3-Thread Flatlock narrow

3-Thread Narrow Seam

3-Thread Rolled Hem

2-Thread Wrapped Overlock wide

2-Thread Wrapped Overlock narrow

2-Thread Flatlock wide

2-Thread Flatlock narrow

2-Thread Rolled Hem

2-Thread Overlock wide

2.5 1 KG

1.5 1 KG

1 1 KG

2.5 1 KG

1 1 KG

2.5 1 KG

N 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0

N 4.0 4.0 3.5

N 3.0 4.5 3.5

N 4.5 4.5 4.0

N 0.0 4.5 7. 0

N 0.0 4.5 6.5

R 4.0 5.0 4.0

R 4.0 4.0 6.0

N 2.5 3.0

N 4.5 3.5

N 0.0 4.0

N 0.0 4.5

R 4.5 4.0

N 0.0 4.0

2-Thread Overlock narrow

2-Thread Chainstitch

3-Thread Overlock & Chainstitch

wide

3-Thread Overlock & Chainstitch

narrow

2-Thread Overlock & Chainstitch

wide

2-Thread Overlock & Chainstitch

narrow

4-Thread Coverstitch

3-Thread Coverstitch wide

3-Thread Coverstitch narrow

2.5 1 KG

3 1 CSI

2.5 1 KG

3 1 CSI

Machine Setting

SL = Stitchlength DF = Differential Dial CW = Cutting Width KG = Knife Guard (for Overlock Stitches) CSI = Cover/Chainstitch Insert (for Cover-/Chainstitches) RHP = Rollhemlever Position

N 0.0 4.5

R 4.5 5.5

N 2.0 5.5 4.5 3.5 5.5

N 2.0 4.5 4.5 4.0 5.5

N 2.0 0.0 4.5 5.5

N 2.0 0.0 5.0 5.5

R 3.0 6.0 6.5 4.0

R 3.0 6.5 4.0

R 3.0 6.0 4.0

Thread Tension Color Code

yellow = (LN, LC, CC) green = (RN, LN) blue = (UL, RC) red = (LL) violet = (CL)

Threading Diagram Overlock

2143

32145

2143

32145

1234

2 3

5 6

Stitches

– A color coded threading diagram is located

inside the looper cover for quick reference.

– Thread the machine in the order (1)–(4).

PLEASE NOTE:

Threads go through the take-up lever cover for Overlock as shown.

• Tension color code Overlock Stitches

(1) Upper looper thread (Blue)

(2) Lower looper thread (Red)

(3) Left needle thread (Yellow)

(4) Right needle thread (Green)

(5) Topside of fabric

(6) Underside of fabric

Threading Diagram Overlock and Chainstitches

– A color coded threading diagram is located

inside the looper cover for quick reference.

– Thread the machine in the order (1)–(5).

PLEASE NOTE:

Threads go through the take-up lever cover for Overlock as shown.

• Tension color code Overlock and Safety Stitch

(1) Upper looper thread (Blue)

(2) Lower looper thread (Red)

(3) Chain looper thread (Violet)

(4) Right needle thread (Green)

(5) Left needle thread (Yellow)

(6) Topside of fabric

(7) Underside of fabric

– A color coded threading diagram is located

inside the looper cover for quick reference.

– Thread the machine in the order (1)–(4).

• Tension color code Coverstitch

(1) Coverstitch looper thread (Violet)

(2) Cover Right needle thread (Blue)

(3) Cover/Chain Center needle thread (Green)

(4) Cover Left needle thread (Yellow)

(5) Topside of fabric

(6) Underside of fabric

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Threading Diagram Coverstitches

Threading the Upper Looper (Blue)

CAUTION:

Be sure to turn off power switch.

– Raise the presser foot to open the tension

discs.

– Thread the upper looper as indicated (1)–(8).

– Pass thread from back to the front through the

thread guide (1).

– Thread the pre-tension guide by pulling the

thread towards the right until it slips under guide

(2). Then pull thread along the right side of pre-

tension as illustrated.

– While holding thread with ﬁngers, pass it

between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs (3).

– Thread the looper area of the machine following

10cm

(4")

10cm

(4")

10cm

(4")

the blue color coded thread guides (4)–(8).

– Thread the hole in the upper looper from front

to back (8).

PLEASE NOTE:

Make sure thread passes behind lower looper. Use of tweezers in the looper cover will make needle eye threading easy.

Threading the Lower Looper (Red)

– Raise the presser foot to open the tension

discs.

– Thread the lower looper as indicated (1)–(9).

– Pass thread from back to the front through the

thread guide (1).

– Thread the pre-tension guide by pulling the

thread towards the right until it slips under guide

(2). Then pull thread along the right side of pre-

tension as illustrated.

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