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Artista 180
User Manual
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Bernina Artista 180 User Manual

MASTERING
YOUR
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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180
MASTERING YOUR
BERNINA
artista 170 QPE/180
®
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®1/10/02 artista 170 QPE/180/1
MASTERING
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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180
Table of Contents
SECTION A Pages 3-16
Care and Feeding of Your Machine
SECTION B Pages 17-36 Let’s Start WIth The Basics
SECTION C Pages 37-59
On The Edge
SECTION D Pages 60-74
Gather It Up and Tuck It Down
SECTION E Pages 75-91
Miscellaneous Magic
SECTION F Pages 92-99
Creative Sewing
SECTION G Pages 100-111
Programming Pizzazz
SECTION H Pages 112-121
Fabulous Features
SECTION G Pages 122-131
Decorative Directions (180 only)
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MASTERING YOUR
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BERNINA
artista 170 QPE/180
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
Section A
Care and Feeding of Your Machine
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Care and Feeding of Your Machine
Machine Set Up
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Cover/Storage of foot control, FHS bar, etc.
• Accessory storage – how box slides on & opens
• Attach foot control; note storage of cords
• Power switch – Owner’s manual pg____
• Light - on/off function (in setup) – Owner’s manual pg____
• Extension table + sliding guide
• Presser foot lifter
- acts as a “third hand”
- extra 2mm of presser foot lift
- drops feed dog to give extra space between
presser foot and feed dog
- speeds sewing by 20%
- alternate size available for use with a sewing
machine cabinet
Presser Feet
Owner’s manual pgs.____
• Importance of using the correct foot
• On-screen indicator
• Overview of included presser feet
Feed Dog
Owner’s manual pg. ____
Threads
Owner’s manual pg. ____
• Types of thread
• Uses for each type of thread
Needles
Owner’s manual pg.____
Bobbins
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Removing the bobbin case
• Winding a bobbin
• Use bobbin thread cutter
• Quick start bobbin – use thread cutter located in the bobbin area
• Clip the thread close to the case before removing the bobbin
SECTION A
Threading the Upper Thread
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Spool pins and discs – Owner’s manual pg.____
- vertical spool pin for stacked and decorative threads
- horizontal spool pin for crosswound threads
- use disc closest to diameter of the spool
• Optional supplementary thread guide
• Optional BERNINA
• Thread machine with the presser foot up until ready to thread the needle
Threading the Needle
• Needle threader – Owner’s manual pg.____
• Side thread cutter – Owner’s manual pg.____
• After the needle is threaded, put the thread under the presser foot
• Lower the presser foot
• Insert the thread into the cutter; it is cut to the proper length to begin sewing
Needle Stop Adjustment
• With the foot control – Owner’s manual pg.___
• With the Needle Stop Up/Down function – Owner’s manual pg.___
Needle Positions
Owner’s manual pg. ____
• Eleven positions
Practical/Decorative Stitches
Owner’s manual pgs.____
• Stitches programmed in the machine
• Stitches available from CPS software
• Uses for the stitches – Owner’s manual pgs.____
• How to select stitches – Owner’s manual pgs.____
- touch screen
- scroll arrows
- selection by stitch number
- external buttons for stitch groups
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thread stand
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Straight Stitching
• Seam measuring – stitch plate marks – Owner’s manual pg.____
- the following measurements are indicated on the stitch plate: ¼”, 3/8”, ½”, 5/8”, ¾”, and 1”
- the line just behind the needle is 4mm
- the horizontal lines to the far back and the line in front of the needle are
• Quilting/seam guide is included with the machine
• Left seam guide and seam guides with rulers are available as optional accessories
• Straight stitch throat plate available
• 5.5mm throat plate available for 180
Basting
Owner’s manual pgs.____
• Loosening the top tension helps in the removal of stitches.
• Using the maximum stitch length gives a 1” stitch.
Topstitching/Edgestitching
Owner’s manual pgs.____
• Machine sews every second stitch when the Long Stitch function is activated; stitch length is 10mm when using the maximum stitch length.
Securing Stitches
Owner’s manual pgs.____
• Options
• Stitch
• Functions
Satin Stitches
• Tension adjustments
- Function icon - must be placed on the function bars (artista 180 only)
- TTC button (artista 180 only)
- Creative Consultant (artista 180 only)
- Setup function (artista 180 only)
- Thread bobbin case finger to adjust tension (artista 170 QPE only)
• Can taper while sewing
• Stabilizer – important to the success of stitches
Altering Stitches
Owner’s manual pg.____
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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180
5
/8” from needle
Restoring Basic Settings
Owner’s manual pg.____
Presser Foot Pressure
Owner’s manual pg.____
Speed Controls
• Three ways to control – Owner’s manual pg.___
- function box in Setup
- function box on the screen
- ½ stitch at a time by tapping the back of the foot control
Changing the Light Bulb
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Use only 12V 5W. W 2.1 x 9.5d bulbs
Cleaning the Feed Dog
• Periodically remove thread fluff and fabric fuzz which collects under the stitch plate. Refer to manual for step-by-step instructions (pg.___).
Cleaning and Lubricating the Hook
• Low mass hook system does not require lubrication
• See Owner’s manual page ____ for step-by-step cleaning instructions
Cleaning the Screen
• Wipe only with a damp cloth
Cleaning the Outside of the Machine
• Wipe with damp cloth. If needed, use a solution of water and a few drops of liquid soap.
IMPORTANT: Never use oil, alcohol, or solvents of any kind on any part of the external surface of the machine.
Here’s an idea...
Use your birthday month as a
reminder to have your BERNINA
machine serviced. Take it to an
authorized BERNINA® technician during the month of your birthday
and you’ll never have to remember
when it was last serviced.
®
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THREADS
Poor quality or the wrong type of thread can cause poor stitches on any machine. Thread passes through the eye of the needle approximately 37 times in a “see-saw” action before it forms a single stitch. Poor quality thread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered seams, frayed thread, and/or needle breakage. To achieve quality stitches, a sewing machine needs three things: correct thread, correct size needle, and properly adjusted thread tensions.
Several factors such as the fiber, twist, ply, finish, and size of thread must be considered for use with today’s fabrics for fine stitches.
Staple – refers to the length of fibers used to twist together to form a single ply. Domestic thread fiber lengths are usually 1½” to 2½” long while European threads use 5½” to 6½” lengths.
Ply – the number of single strands twisted together to make a single thread. Roll – the tendency of thread to roll to the right or left during stitching, causing the stitch to
appearslightly crooked. Poor quality threads are more likely to roll. Twist – the crimping of fibers which causes them to interlock firmly into a single ply. Thread should
not untwist during stitching. This will cause skipped stitches, thread breakage, crooked stitches, and weak spots in seams.
Right twist – most American threads are twisted to the right, causing some rolling. This gives average stitch quality.
Left twist – Most commercial and imported threads are twisted to the left, giving better than average stitch quality. Left twist resists rolling and makes a larger loop for the hook point to enter, reducing skipped stitches.
Wearable art embellishment has necessitated the creation and marketing of many new thread types, such as Sulky’s rayons and metallics. Made in West Germany, these are left twist threads; Mettler and Isacord threads are also left twist. To test the twist of a thread: while holding the spool in the left hand, roll the strand of thread towards you with one thumb. Left twist will tighten, right twist will loosen.
Fiber – refers to the typ eof material used to produce the thread. Some commonly used threads:
• Polyester 2 ply – such as Metrosene 100. Good for clothing construction on man-made, natural or blended fabrics. Will tolerate heat up to 450° Fahrenheit. Also Isacord embroidery thread – excellent for embroidery, very abrasion resistant.
• Polyester 3 ply cordonnet – topstitching or buttonhole twist – such as Mettler 30/3.
• Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 60/2 – excellent for French Machine Sewing, delicate machine embroidery, and darning.
• Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 30/2 – loose twist for a soft, shiny look in machine embroidery, applique, and buttonholes.
• Cotton 3 ply – such as Mettler 50/3 – excellent for clothing construction on natural fibers. Tighter twist than embroidery cotton thread and less puckering on problem fabrics. Cotton thread stretches less than polyester.
• Rayon – a lustrous embroidery thread. Weaker than cotton, it is used for decorative work only.
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NEEDLES
Along with thread, needles are very important to stitch formation. Many “mechanical” problems and damage to fabrics can be traced to a bent, damages, or incorrect size or type needle. Approximately 60% of all needles made are discarded at some stage of production. When selecting the correct needle for any sewing project, three things must be considered:
Needle system – 130/705H Needle point – to assure stitch formation and avoid fabric damage Needle size – small size for lightweight fabrics; larger needle for heavier fabrics
If the needle is:
Too small – the thread can’t stay in the groove to form a loop to be picked up by the hook point Bent – thread loop forms too far away from hook point; hook can’t enter loop to form stitch Blunt – needle won’t pierce fabric so no thread loop forms to make a stitch
Need To Know
• Needle should be changed every 4-6 hours of sewing. The needle is the most inexpensive part in your sewing machine but is one of the most crucial for getting good results and keeping your machine running well. Don’t let false economy keep you from doing what is best for your sewing projects and your machine.
• European needles are chrome-plated to glide in and out of fabric easily.
• The selected thread should fit in the groove on the front of the needle. If it isn’t protected by the groove, a needle with a larger groove should be used.
• Always make sure the needle is fully inserted as high as possible when installing a new one.
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Ball Point
Stretch
Stretch Double
Universal
Double Universal
Triple (Drilling)
Jeans
Jeans Double
70-90
70-90
2.5/75
4.0/75
60-110
1.6/70-
8.0/100
3.0/90
70-90
4.0/100
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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180
SEWING MACHINE NEEDLES
Has a rounder point. 70 for lingerie, nylon, jersey; 80 for T-shirt; 90 for sweatshirt fleece.
A stretch needle has a more rounded point and a blue anti­cling coating which helps to prevent skipped stitches in knits and elastic. Sometimes used on Ultrasuede
Two ballpoint needles on one shank; each needle has a large scarf. Used for hemming and for stitching on knit fabric.
A compromise between a sharp and a ballpoint needle; can be used on both wovens and knits. 60 – very fine batiste 70 – broadcloth 80 – trigger and gabardine 90 – denim and twill 100 & 1 10 – canvas
Two needles attached to one shank. Used for pintucks, hems, and decorative work. Note: The
170 QPE can use up to a 4.0mm and a 180 can use up to an
8.0mm.
Three needles attached to one shank. Used to create mock smocking and other decorative effects.
Has a sharp point and a shaft that is less prone to flex. The sharpness of the needles makes it better for use on denim and woven fabrics where a clean stitch is desired.
Two Jeans needles attached to one shank. For topstitching on denim with heavy thread; can also be used for decorative
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, vinyl, and plastic.
Microtex Sharp (Schmetz)
Microfiber (Lammertz)
Quilting
Topstitch
Embroidery (Schmetz)
Metafil (Lammertz)
Metafil Double
Wing
Double Wing
Leather
60-90
assort’d (75 &
90)
80-100
75-90
3.0/75
100­120
100
80-90
stitching with metallic thread. A sharp point with a thin shaft. 60-90 corresponds to the weight of the fabric; as the fabric gets heavier, the number is higher.
The thin, tapers point of this needle causes less damage to fabric when seaming and cross seaming.
A sharp point with a large eye and deep groove. For use with heavier fabrics – the large groove cradles heavier threads.
Sharp needle with a large eye and groove; also has a coating and a larger scarf. For use with embroidery thread – prevents shredding of rayon or metallic threads. Two threads may be used through the eye of an 80 or 90 needle.
Two Metafil needles attached to one shaft; for double needle work with embroidery threads.
Sharp pointed needle with a non­cutting wedge of metal on each side. Needle makes a hole in the fabric without cutting the threads of the fabric. Used for decorative and heirloom work, such as hemstitching. Works best on natural fibers or on the bias.
One regular needle and one wing needle attached to a single shaft. Use the same as a Wing; makes one large and one regular hole.
Point is a sharp cutting wedge. Used for sewing leather only. Not for vinyl or simulated leathers.
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NEEDLE POSITIONS
Fabric: Firmly woven fabric, 4” x 6” Needle: 90/14 Embroidery Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery
Contrasting color
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
Owner’s manual pg.____
• The 170 QPE/180 has 11 fixed needle positions.
• Fold fabric in half to 2” x 6”.
• Select Straight Stitch. The basic settings are displayed on the screen. The needle position indicator is just below the stitch width scale; the needle should be in center position.
• Position the fold of the fabric on the 1” mark on the right side of the stitch plate.
• Select Pattern End 3x; sew until the machine stops.
• Move the needle one position to the left.
• Sew until the machine stops.
• Repeat until all six positions have been sewn.
• Leaving the fabric under the foot – move the needle position back to center.
• Sew until the machine stops.
• Move the needle one position to the right.
• Sew until the machine stops.
• Move the needle one more position to the right – sew until the machine stops.
• Repeat until all six positions have been sewn.
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SEAMING
Fabric: Firm fabric – 2 pieces, 4” x 6” each Needle: 90/14 Embroidery Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery
Contrasting color
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Find the 5/8” guide line on the stitch plate.
• Place fabric pieces right sides together and align them with the guide line.
• Sew a 5/8” seam on one 6” edge.
• Attach the Quilting/Seam Guide to the foot and sew a 2” seam on the other side.
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Basting Stitch #21 Preprogrammed settings
BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180
Basting Stitch #21 - 5mm length
Long Stitch function engaged
BASTING
Fabric: Firm fabric – 2 pieces, 4” x 6” each Needle: 90/14 Embroidery Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery
Contrasting color
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Place fabric pieces right sides together.
• Using Basting Stitch #21 with the preprogrammed length, baste a
• Using the same stitch with a 5.5mm stitch length, engage the Long Stitch function and baste another 5/8” seam along the opposite edge.
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5
/8” seam along one side of the fabric.
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TOPSTITCHING/EDGESTITCHING
Fabric: Firm fabric – 4” x 6” Needle: 90/14 Embroidery Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery
Contrasting color
Presser Foot: Edgestitch Foot #10/10C (optional accessory)
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Cut fabric in half to create 2 pieces each 2” x 6”.
• Sew two pieces together with a
• Press the seam open.
• From the right side, position the blade of the foot in the ditch of the seam.
• Select Triple Straight Stitch #6.
• Move the needle position 3 places to the left.
• Sew the length of the seam.
• Select the Long Stitch function.
• Move the needle position 4 places to the right.
• Start at the top of the seam as before.
• Sew down the length of the seam again.
5
/8” seam on the 6” sides.
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SECURING STITCHES
Fabric: Firm fabric – 3 pieces, 3” x 6” each Needle: 90/14 Embroidery Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Fold each fabric piece in half to 1½” x 6”.
• Find the
• The BERNINA® 170 QPE/180 secures in three ways:
5
/8” seam line on the guide plate.
1 – Select stitch #3 and sew a few stitches. Press the Quick Reverse button located on the front of the sewing machine and the machine will sew in reverse until the button is released. Continue stitching the seam and secure the end in the same manner. 2 – Select stitch #5 and stitch. The machine will automatically reverse after five stitches, then continue in a forward motion. Stitch to the end of the seam, then press and release the Quick Reverse button. The machine will stitch backward five stitches, and then continue forward again five stitches and stop. 3 – Select stitch #332. Engage the Securing function to put a securing stitch at the beginning and the end of each pattern repeat. In regular sewing, turn the Securing function off after the first stitch and back on again after the last stitch is taken.
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SATIN STITCH
Fabric: Firm fabric – 3 pieces, 3” x 6” each Needle: 90/14 Embroidery Thread: 30 wt. Cotton Embroidery Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Fold fabric in half to 3” x 6”. Use stabilizer as needed.
• Select Stitch #2. Change the stitch length to satin stitch and the stitch width to the maximum setting.
• Thread the bobbin thread through the hole in the finger of the bobbin case (170 QPE only).
• Move the needle position all the way to the left.
• Position the raw edge of the fabric on the 3/8” line (on the right side of the stitch plate).
• Sew down this edge about 1”. While continuing to sew, turn the stitch width knob to taper the stitch to 0mm. Then widen the stitch back to maximum. Repeat until the stitching reaches the end of the fabric.
• Position the fold of the fabric on the 3/8” line (on the left side of the stitch plate).
• Move the needle position all the way to the right and stitch along the right side of the fabric, tapering and widening the stitching while sewing.
• Move the needle position to the center and stitch down the center of the fabric, tapering and widening the satin stitch while sewing.
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ALTERED MEMORY
Fabric: Firm fabric – 6” x 6” Needle: 90/14 Embroidery Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Fold fabric to 3” x 6”.
• Select stitch #407.
• Sew a row of stitching as programmed down the center of the sample.
• Alter stitch length to 1mm and sew a 2nd row on one side of the first row.
• Touch CLR - this clears alterations made to the selected stitch only.
• Select stitch #2 - (the one used for satin stitching in the previous exercise). Notice the computer remembered all the changes made to the stitch.
• Select stitch #407 again.
• Alter stitch width to 3.5mm (170 QPE) or stitch 6mm (180) and sew a 3rd row on the other side of the first row.
• Touch CLR ALL- notice the alterations made are gone.
• Select stitch #2 again - notice the changes made to it are gone also. CLR ALL returns
• The computer will remember any and all stitches you alter, as long as the clear buttons are not used and as long as the machine is not turned off.
all stitch alterations back to default settings.
RETURNING TO BASIC SETTINGS
• Three options: 1. Press the external CLR button
2. Touch the CLR ALL function.
3. Manually set changes back to the basic mark
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Feet-ures Edgestitch Foot #10/10C Additional bobbin holders for accessory cabinet Additional presser foot holders for accessory cabinet Stabilizers – Sampler Pack or type __________
Thread – Assortment or size ____ and type ____ Needles – Assortment or size ____ and type ____
Needle Threader Bobbins – Baker’s dozen Spool Bobbin Holders Magnetic Pin Cushion Magnetic Bobbin Holder Straight Stitch Plate Seam Sealant Extra Thread Stand Scissors - 6” or 7” Dressmaker’s shears ____
Left guide (matches right guide included with machine)____ Seam Guide with Rulers (right and left) ____ Set of Magnifying Glasses
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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180
WISH LIST
Care and Feeding of Your Machine
type __________ size ____ and type ____ size ____ and type ____
size ____ and type ____ size ____ and type ____
4” or 5” Trimming scissors ____ Thread nips ____
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OWNER’S WORKBOOK
Section B
Let’s Start With The Basics
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Let’ s Start With The Basics
Seams
Triple Straight Stitch – SL 2-3mm
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Jeans Foot #8 prevents needle deflection
• Non-Stick Straight Stitch Foot #53
• This stitch sews strong seams on heavy fabrics
Zigzag – SL1mm SW1.5mm
Owner’s manual pgs.____
Stretch – SL1mm SW2mm
Owner’s manual pg. ____
Super Stretch – as programmed
Owner’s manual pg. ____
• use to seam curved edges that receive a lot of stress such as the crotch area of pants.
Vari-Overlock – SL1mm SW4mm NP right
Owner’s manual pg. ____
• Can be used with double needle for a decorative hem on knits
• Overlock Foot #2 (optional for 170 QPE) or #2A (included with 180) prevents the seam from rolling as it is being sewn
• Engage the Needle Down function
SECTION B
Reinforced Overlock – SL2mm SW5mm
Owner’s manual pg. ____
• The artista has several seaming stitches from which to choose, depending on the type of fabric being used. With the Creative Consultant, you can specify the type of fabric you want to use, and the computer will suggest the appropriate stitch.
Stitching Corners
• Utilize the FHS system to raise and lower the presser foot when turning corners.
• Use the 5/8” markings on stitch plate
• Engage the Needle Down function
• Press heel on foot control to lower needle
Oversewing Edges
Blind Hem – Owner’s manual pg.____
• The Blind Hem Foot #5, along with the blindstitch, produces a superior blind hem. The zigzag part of the stitch is formed over the guide on the foot, causing the stitch to be slightly loose, so that the blind hem will not pucker and does not form a tuck in the fabric.
Hand Picked – Feet-ures, Unit B pg.____
Double Overlock – SL2mm SW5mm
Owner’s manual pg. ____
Knit Overlock – as programmed
Owner’s manual pg. ____
• Use Overlock Foot #2 (optional for 170 QPE) or #2A (included with 180)
Stretch Overlock – SL2mm SW4mm
Owner’s manual pg. ____
Flat Joining – SL2mm SW4mm
Owner’s manual pg. ____
• Good for thick fabrics such as terry cloth which would be stretched by a straight stitch
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Triple Zigzag – Feet-ures, Unit A pg.____
• This stitch is used for strong, visible hems on firm, coarse fabrics such as denim and canvas.
Double Needle – Feet-ures, Units A and K, pgs__ Neckline Hem – Owner’s manual pg.____ Jeans – Feet-ures, Unit B pg.____
• Height Compensation Tool
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TRIPLE STRAIGHT STITCH
Fabric: Denim, 4” x 6” Needle: 90/14 Jeans Thread: All-purpose Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
Edgestitch Foot #10/10C (optional accessory)
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Cut the fabric in half lengthwise forming two pieces, 2” x 6” each.
• Select the Triple Straight Stitch #6.
• Sew the two pieces together with a
• Press the seam open.
• Change to Edgestitch Foot #10/10C and adjust the needle position to stitch through the seam allowance.
• Adjust the stitch length to 3.5mm.
• With the guide of the foot in the ditch of the seam, topstitch the length of the seam on both sides.
5
/8” seam allowance using Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C.
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ZIGZAG SEAM
Fabric: Firm knit – 4” x 6” Needle: 80/12 Universal Thread: All-purpose Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Cut the fabric piece in half lengthwise, creating two pieces, 2” x 6” each.
• Select the Zigzag Stitch #2 – SW 1mm and SL 0.5mm.
• Position the fabric to produce a
• Stitch the seam.
• Clip one seam allowance in the middle.
• Press one part of the seam open and leave the other half closed, so the stitch is visible.
• Trim and mount the sample.
5
/8” seam down one side.
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Owner’s manual pg.___
• Cut fabric in half lengthwise creating two pieces, 2” x 6” each.
• Select stitch #11.
• Position the fabric to produce a
• Stitch the seam; lighten the presser foot presure if fabric stretches.
• Clip one seam allowance in the middle and press one part of the seam open.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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SUPER STRETCH SEAM
Fabric: Heavy Double Knit, 4” x 6” Needle: 80/12 Universal Thread: All-purpose Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
5
/8” seam down one side.
Note: This stitch is good for an open seam on all knit fabrics; works well for sportswear.
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V ARI-OVERLOCK SEAM
Fabric: Cotton Interlock, 4” x 6”
Ribbing, 2” x 4”
Needle: 80/12 Univeral Thread: All-purpose Presser Foot: Overlock Foot #2 (optional accessory) /2A
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Cut an inside curve in one corner of the fabric to simulate a neckline.
• Select the Vari-Overlock Stitch #3.
• Engage the Needle Down function.
• Place folded ribbing along the curved edge of the fabric (ribbing and fabric, right sides together).
• Guide the raw edges of the fabric under the pin of the foot and stitch; stitch length and width can be adjusted, if needed.
• Trim the sample and mount with the ribbing pressed to the finished position.
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Owner’s manual pg.___
• Cut the fabric in half lengthwise, creating two pieces, 2” x 6’ each.
• Select the Double Overlock Stitch #10.
• Guide the raw edge along the pin of the Overlock Foot.
• The right swing of the needle should go off the fabric edge.
• Trim the sample and mount.
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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180
DOUBLE OVERLOCK SEAM
Fabric: Single Knit – 4” x 6” Needle: 80/12 Universal Thread: All-purpose Presser Foot: Overlock Foot #2 (optional accessory) /2A
Note: This is a good overlock seam for loosely knit fabrics and for cross
seams in other knits and jerseys.
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Owner’s manual pg.___
• Cut the fabric in half lengthwise, creating 2 pieces 2” x 6” each.
• Select the Stretch Overlock stitch #20.
• Guide the fabric so the right swing of the needle goes off the edge of the seam; lighten presser foot pressure if seam stretches.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180
KNIT OVERLOCK SEAM
Fabric: Sweater knit fabric, 4”x 6” Needle: 80/12 Universal Thread: Regular sewing Presser Foot: Overlock Foot #2 (optional accessory) /2A
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Owner’s manual pg.___
• Cut the fabric in half lengthwise, creating 2 pieces 2” x 6” each.
• Select the Stretch Overlock stitch #13.
• Guide the fabric so the right swing of the needle goes off the edge of the seam; lighten presser foot pressure if seam stretches.
• Trim and mount the sample.
®
BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180
STRETCH OVERLOCK SEAM
Fabric: Loosely knit fabric, 4”x 6” Needle: 80/12 Universal Thread: Regular sewing Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180
FLAT JOINING SEAM
Fabric: Terry cloth - 2 pieces, 2” x 6” each Needle: 90/14 Universal Thread: Regular sewing thread to match fabric Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Select the Stretch Overlock stitch #13.
• Cut a 5/8” seam allowance off one piece of fabric along the long edge.
• Mark a line on the other piece of fabric, 5/8” from one long edge. This will be the right-hand piece of fabric.
• Overlap the fabric edges left over right, aligning the left raw edge with the drawn line on the right-hand piece.
• Stitch along the raw edge. Turn the fabric over and stitch along the remaining
raw edge.
NOTE: This is a great seam technique to use on bulky fabrics such as terry cloth.
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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180
REINFORCED OVERLOCK SEAM
Fabric: Bulky knit fabric, 4”x 6” Needle: 80/12 Universal Thread: Regular sewing Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Cut the fabric in half lengthwise, creating 2 pieces 2” x 6” each.
• Select the Reinforced Overlock stitch #19.
• Guide the fabric along the 15mm line for a
• Trim excess seam allowance and mount the sample.
5
/8” seam; lighten presser foot pressure if seam stretches.
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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180
STITCHING CORNERS
Fabric: Firm fabric – 2 pieces, 5” x 5” each Needle: 80/12 Universal Thread: All-purpose Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Select the Straight Stitch #1.
• Place fabric pieces right sides together.
• Place the fabric under the foot with the top edge even with the horizontal line behind the foot.
• The right edge should be even with the 5/8” seam line.
• Engage the Needle Down function.
• Sew until the bottom edge touches the horizontal line in front of the needle; stop.
• Pivot and continue sewing until you come to the next corner and do the same thing.
• Stitch only three sides of this sample.
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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180
OVERSEWING EDGES
Fabric: Heavy Flannel – 3” x 6” Needle: 80/12 Universal Thread: All-purpose Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Select the Zigzag Stitch #2.
• Finish one 6” edge using the following steps.
• Guide edge of fabric under the middle of the presser foot.
• The needle should go into the fabric on one stroke of the needle and over the edge on the next stroke.
• Do not use too long a stitch or too wide a stitch; the edge should lie flat, not roll.
• Match the weight of the thread to the weight of the fabric.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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BERNINA® artista 170 QPE/180
BLIND HEM
Fabric: Heavy Flannel – 6” x 7” Needle: 80/12 Universal Thread: All-purpose Presser Foot: Reverse pattern Foot #1/1C and
Blind Hem Foot #5
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Finish one 6” edge of the fabric following the steps of the previous exercise.
• Fold a 2” hem to the wrong side of the fabric and press.
• Select Basting Stitch #21 and attach Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C.
• Baste the hem in place, sewing about ¼” from the raw edge.
• Select the Blindstitch #9 and attach Blind Hem Foot #5.
• Fold hem back to the right side over the basting line.
• Sew on the extended hem allowance, keeping the folded edge next to the guide on the foot.
• Adjust the stitch width if needed so that the needle barely stitches into the fold.
• Mount the sample with the edges folded back as shown in the drawing.
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