Bernina 830 User Manual

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BERNINA 830

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Dear BERNINA 830 customer,

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Congratulations! With the purchase of the BERNINA 830, you have acquired the ultimate sewing and embroidery system available in today’s market. By purchasing this system, you have established that you are a creative person who is looking for the opportunity to explore and expand the unlimited world of creativity.

The use of modern, future-oriented technologies in the computerized sewing and embroidery field coupled with the tradition of BERNINA quality and reliability offer you the best of the future and the best of the past. With the BERNINA 830 system you will be able to sew faster, smarter, longer, and more creatively- and with more enjoyment. We have put all the dreams that our customers have shared with us into this product.

BERNINA wants you to fully enjoy the enormous possibilities that the BERNINA 830 sewing system offers you. To do so, you must learn all the wonderful features of the product. Therefore, don’t hesitate to frequent your local BERNINA dealer and tap into the knowledge of the BERNINA educators.

I wish you much happiness and great satisfaction while enjoying your creative pastime.

H.P. Ueltschi President BERNINA International AG CH-8266 Steckborn www.bernina.com

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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

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When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following:

Read all instructions before using this sewing-/embroidery computer.

When the sewing-/embroidery computer is not in use, it should be disconnected from the electricity supply by removing the plug from the outlet.

DANGER!

To reduce the risk of electrical shock:

1 An appliance should never be left unattended

when plugged in.

2 Always unplug this sewing-/embroidery computer

from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

3 LED Radiation – Do not view directly with optical

instruments. Class 1M LED product.

Safety Instructions

WARNING!

To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury to persons:

1 Use this sewing-/embroidery computer only for its

intended use as outlined in this manual. Use only attachments, accessories and parts recommended by the manufacturer.

2 Do not use the sewing-/embroidery computer as a

toy. Caution is advised when the sewing-/embroidery computer is used by children, or near children. The sewing-/embroidery computer is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the sewing -/embroidery computer by a person responsible for their safety. To ensure children do not play with the sewing-/embroidery computer they must be supervised.

3 Never operate this sewing-/embroidery computer if:

► the cord or plug are damaged ► it is not working properly ► it has been dropped or damaged ► it has fallen into water

Return the sewing-/embroidery computer to your local authorized BERNINA dealer for examination or repair.

4 Never operate the sewing-/embroidery computer

with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing-/embroidery computer and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.

5 Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special

care is required around the sewing needle.

6 Never drop or insert any objects into any openings

on the sewing-/embroidery computer.

7 Do not use the sewing-/embroidery computer

outdoors.

8 Do not operate the sewing-/embroidery computer

where aerosol products (sprays) or oxygen are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

9 Do not pull or push fabric while stitching - this may

cause the needle to break.

10 Do not use bent needles. 11 Always use a proper BERNINA stitch plate. The

wrong plate can cause needle breakage.

12 To disconnect, turn all controls to the OFF («0»)

position, then remove the plug from the outlet. To unplug, pull the plug not the cord.

13 Turn all controls OFF (to the «0» position) when

making any adjustments in the needle area - such as changing or threading the needle, presser foot etc.

14 Always unplug the sewing-/embroidery computer

from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making other user servicing adjustments mentioned in this instruction manual.

15 This sewing-/embroidery computer is provided with

double insulation (except USA and Canada). Use only identical replacement parts. See instructions for servicing of double-insulated products.

SERVICING DOUBLE INSULATED PRODUCTS

In a double-insulated product two systems of insulation are provided instead of grounding. No grounding means is provided on a doubleinsulated product, nor should a means for grounding be added to the product. Servicing a doubleinsulated product requires extreme care and knowledge of the system and should be done only by qualified service personnel. Replacement parts for a doubleinsulated product must be identical to those parts in the product. A double-insulated product is marked with the words «DOUBLE INSULATION» or «DOUBLE INSULATED».

The symbol

may also be marked on the product.

DISCLAIMER

No liability will be assumed for any possible damage which arises from misuse of this sewing-/embroidery computer.

This sewing-/embroidery computer is intended for household use only.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS!

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Sewing

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Accessory & Preparation

Functions & Settings

Main Stitch Categories

BERNINA World

Maintenance/Troubleshooting

Stitch & Motif Overview

Index

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Very important!

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Risk of damage!

Helpful tips!

Text

Gayle Hillert, Herbert Stolz, Joanna Wild

Sewing & Embroidering Projects

Colette Cogley, Jeanne Delpit, Susan Fears, Claudia Giesser, Gayle Hillert, Nina McVeigh, Pia Welsch, Joanna Wild

Screen Design & Drawings

sculpt.ch, CH-Steckborn

Photographs

Sterling Rice Group, USA Patrice Heilmann, CH-Winterthur

Manual Design & Concept

Erika Vollenweider-Czibulya

Typesetting, Layout, DTP

Susanne Ribi, Erika Vollenweider-Czibulya

2008 BERNINA International AG, CH-Steckborn

For technical and product improvement reasons, the sewing computer‘s features, parts and accessory are subject to unannounced changes and alterations at any time. The accessory included can differ from country to country.

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Accessory & Preparation

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Accessory 6

Your Delivery 6

Sewing computer cover 6 Accessory 6 In plastic bag 6

Presser Feet 7

BERNINA Specialty presser feet 7

Accessory Box 8

Free Standing 8 Lay-out 9

Sewing Computer 10

Details 10

Preparation 12

Battery 12

Power Switch/Power Cable 12

Free-Hand-System (FHS) Presser Foot Lifter 12

Changing the Presser Foot 22

Stitch plates 23

Feed-Dog and Fabric Feed 23

Sewing with the Height Compensation Tool 24 Sewing Corners 24

Thread Tension 25

Upper Thread Tension 25 Lower Thread Tension 25 Altering the Tension 25

Needles 26

Important facts about Thread and Needles 26

Thread 26 Needle, Thread and Fabric 26 Needle/Thread 26

Guidelines 27

Overview 28

Foot Control 13

LED Sewing Light 13

Pivotable Triple Spool Holder 14

Bobbin 14

Winding the Bobbin 15 Interrupting the winding process 15 Removing/Inserting the Bobbin 16 Threading Lower Thread 16

Slide-on Table 17

Thread Cutter 17

Threading the Upper Thread 18

Double/Triple Needle 19

Thread-Guide-and-Lubricating Unit 20

As a thread-guide eyelet (Fig. 1) 20 As a thread lubricator (Fig. 2) 20 Assembly 20

Radial Thread Guide 21

Various Options of Application 21

Changing the Needle 22

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Your Delivery

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Accessory

Sewing computer cover

► protects from dust and dirt

Accessory

► foot control ► power cable ► warranty card ► FHS presser foot lifter (Free Hand System) ► slide-on table ► seam guide for slide-on table ► Instructional DVD ► sewing computer cover ► accessory box ► thread lubricater

In plastic bag

1 4 bobbins 2 adjustable guides 3 wire threader for threading cording for bobbin play 4 tweezers 5 2 nets 6 cording attachment 7 magnifying glass adapter 8 small screwdriver, gray 9 touch pen 10 seam ripper 11 lint brush 12 multifunction tool 13 manual threader 14 spool disc small 15 holder for king-size spools, cone holder 16 height compensating tool 17 needle pack 130/705H 18 lubricator 19 monitoring mirror 20 hook cleaning tool

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Presser Feet

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1C Reverse pattern foot 1D Reverse pattern foot 2A Overlock foot

3C Buttonhole foot 4D Zipper foot 5 Blindstitch foot

3A Automatic buttonhole

foot with slide

Accessory

18 Button sew-on foot

20C Open embroidery foot 40C Sideways motion foot 42 BSR foot

BERNINA Specialty presser feet

8 Jeans foot 50 Walking foot

It is recommended that BERNINA specialty presser feet be used for specific sewing tasks such as quilting, heirloom sewing, home decorating, tailoring etc. All the presser feet are shown in the enclosed accessory catalog. They are available at your BERNINA dealer.

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Accessory Box

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Free Standing

► on the back of the box, pull both

extensions out until they click into place

Accessory

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Lay-out

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Accessory

The box is equipped as standard with one small A and one large B drawer as well as a compartment for bobbin holders C and presser feet D.

► to remove a bobbin, press the

compartment holder E lightly

► buttonhole foot with slide no. 3A

can be stored in the left compartment F

► store the needle range supplied in

the special compartment G

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Details

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Sewing Computer

38 39

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1 Bobbin cover 2 Stitch plate 3 Attachment base for special accessories 4 Presser foot 5 Needle clamp 6 Thread guide 7 Screen 8 Carrying handle 9 System Settings

‣ Setup button ‣ Tutorial button ‣ Creative Consultant button ‣ Help button ‣ Eco button ‣ Sewing-/Embroidery mode button ‣ «clr» clear button

10 Stitch width knob 11 Stitch length knob 12 Needle position buttons 13 Bobbin winder 14 Thread cutter for bobbin winder 15 Threading slit 16 Triple spool pin 17 Telescope 18 Bobbin pre-tension 19 Slide-on table socket 20 Darning hoop connection 21 FHS (Free Hand System) connection 22 Slide speed control 23 Automatic needle threader 24 Needle stop up/down button 25 Presser foot up/down button 26 Securing button 27 Pattern end button 28 Automatic thread cutter 29 Start/stop button 30 Quick reverse button 31 Special-accessories port 32 BSR connection 33 BERNINA Dual Feed 34 Handwheel 35 USB connection 36 PC connection 37 Foot control socket 38 Power switch on/off («I», «0») 39 Power plug socket 40 Connection for Magnifying glass

(optional accessory)

41 Thread cutter on head frame 42 Embroidery module connection

Sewing Computer

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Battery

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Power Switch/Power Cable

Please remove the protective sticker of the battery before taking the sewing computer in use.

A Power Switch

The sewing computer is switched on («I») and off («0») with the power switch.

Preparation

A B

(USA/Canada only): The sewing computer has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way!

Free-Hand-System (FHS) Presser Foot Lifter

I the sewing computer is switched on 0 the sewing computer is switched off

B Power connection C Foot control connection D PC connection E USB stick connection

If the sewing computer is kept in a cold room, place it in a warm room for 1 hour before use.

The FHS is used to raise and lower the Presser Foot.

Attaching the Free Hand System

► insert into the opening; you should be able to operate

the FHS with your knee in your normal sitting position

Raising and Lowering the Presser Foot

► with knee push FHS to the right ► the presser foot is raised and the feed-dog is lowered

simultaneously. Tension is released

► the feed-dog is raised as soon as the first stitch is sewn

Your dealer can adjust the FHS if necessary.

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Foot Control

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Sewing Speed

► sewing speed is controlled by pressure on the foot

control

Raise or Lower the Needle

► entire foot rests comfortably on Foot Pedal ► tap the Foot Control with your heel to raise or lower the

needle

Cable tidy

► wind the cable around the reel ► insert the cable end (plug) into A

When sewing

► unwind the cable to the desired length and slip into B

or C

Preparation

(USA/Canada only): Use only foot controller type LV1 or WFC1 with sewing computer model 830.

LED Sewing Light

The LED sewing light illuminates the sewing area with no shadows and has a very long service life.

A defective sewing light must only be replaced by a technician.

Take the sewing-/embroidery computer to your BERNINA dealer.

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Pivotable Triple Spool Holder

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► remove spool-pin cover vertically upwards ► pull out the telescopic rod and ensure that all the parts

snap into place

► swing spool pin to the right until it is engaged. This

ensures a good overall view and access to the spool pins

► eyelet A is used when winding a bobbin

Preparation

Bobbin

The 830 bobbin, exclusive to BERNINA, supplies till 40% more lower thread. If the bobbin is not inserted correctly, an error message is displayed.

You can preselect a bobbin fill of 25%, 50% or 100%.

Treat the bobbins with care. Keep the white sensor surfaces free of scratches or stains to ensure correct functioning of the lower thread indicator. Store the bobbins in the respective compartment of the accessories box.

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Winding the Bobbin

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Preparation

► turn power switch on (to «I») ► place empty bobbin on Pin, white mark in front ► the bobbin winding screen appears ► the amount of bobbin fill is recognized by the system

and displayed by bar below the selectable bobbin fill

► place thread spool on the front spool pin and thread the

respective guides 1 on the telescope

Winding the Bobbin

► hold thread with both hands, guide the thread in the

thread guide on the swivel plate 2 in the direction of the arrows and around the bobbin pre-tension 3

► wind the thread one to two times around the empty

bobbin 4 following the direction of the arrows and pull any excess thread in the direction of the arrows, cut off

on the thread cutter 5

► select the bobbin filling, standard = 100% ► «Start» field = touch bobbin symbol ► adjust the winding speed with the «+» or «-» icon or with

the stitch width knob

► winding process stops as soon as the selected fill

percentage is reached

► remove the bobbin and pull the thread over the thread

cutter

► the screen is closed

Manual Winding Mode

► touch «man» ► the winder will run as long as the «bobbin» icon is

pressed

Preparation

Interrupting the winding process

► the winding process can be interrupted by touching

«Start»-(bobbin) icon, and the screen closed by

touching

► Continuing the winding process

‣ touch «bobbin» icon (it appears in the place of the

clock) = the winding screen opens

‣ touch «Start»-to start winding process

It is possible to wind the bobbin while embroidering. We recommend, however, to reduce the winding speed.

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Removing/Inserting the Bobbin

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Removing the Bobbin

► open bobbin cover, the hook system swings to the front ► push the latch in the center of the bobbin to the left, the

bobbin pops out and can be removed

Inserting the Bobbin

► with bobbin markings facing the front, place the bobbin

into the hook and push until it clicks into place

Threading Lower Thread

► pull the thread to the right into slit A, then left under the

spring

► pull thread over thread cutter B and cut ► close the bobbin cover slowly, the hook swings back to

the rear

Preparation

The bobbin thread does not have to be brought up as the loose end is just the right length to start sewing.

Only remove the bobbin if the hook is at the end position (threading position).

Check the threading path

After threading the hook, hold the mirror under the swung-out hook unit as shown in the pictures below.

► Position of bobbin thread when threaded for sewing

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Slide-on Table

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The slide-on table increases the sewing surface.

Attaching the Table

► raise the needle and presser foot ► from the left, push table to the right over the free-arm

and push firmly so that it engages over the fixing cam

Removing the Table

► raise needle and presser foot ► press the button down and remove to the left

Remove the slide-on table only when bobbin cover is closed.

Seam Guide

► press the release button and insert into the groove

(underside of table) from left or right

► can be moved over the entire table length

Preparation

Thread Cutter

Scale

► «0» corresponds to the center needle position

on Head Frame

► pull both threads from back to front over the cutter ► threads release automatically as soon as the first stitch

is sewn

at bobbin winder

► after winding bobbin, pull thread in direction of arrow

over thread cutter

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Threading the Upper Thread

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Automatic threading

► place thread spool on the rear or center spool pin ► thread the corresponding guide on the telescopic rod,

hold with both hands and guide into the threading

opening of the sewing computer, taking it up to the

thread guide in the needle clamp A and B and pull from

back to front over the thread cutter C

► touch the automatic threader button, a message and an

animation appear

► during threading the start-stop button is illuminated red ► if the thread has not been threaded correctly, an error

message appears

► close the message with and start again ► if the thread has been threaded correctly the start-stop

button is illuminated green

Manual threading

► follow the two first steps as described above ► touch «Manual threading» icon on screen ► press «Automatic threading» button, then thread the

needle by hand

Preparation

► when using unruly threads, slip the net over

the upper thread spool

► large net for large spools, small net for

small spools

► this prevents the upper thread from slipping

and gives an even thread feed

► place the thread(s) under the presser foot

and to the back before starting to sew

Do not start the threaded sewing-/ embroidery computer if there is no fabric on the stitch plate.

The sewing-/embroidery computer must be switched ON for threading.

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Double/Triple Needle

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Double Needle

► touch the «Security Program» icon ► touch the appropriate needle icon (double needle) in the

Security Program screen

► place a thread spool on the center spool pin and one on

the rear spool pin and thread the corresponding guides on the telescopic rod

► insert the two threads together into the threading slit,

guiding the thread of the rear spool pin behind the thread-tension disc A while guiding the thread of the center spool pin in front of the tension disc A. Then guide the two threads through the thread guide at the needle clamp

► touch the icon «Manual Threading» on the threading

animation screen. Next touch the illuminated automatic threading button

► using the manual threader in your accessory kit,

manually thread the left needle and then the right needle

Triple Needle

► in the Security Program select triple needle ► place a thread spool on each spool pin and thread the

respective guides on the telescopic rod

► thread as usual, guiding the thread from the rear and

center spool pin in the threading slit to the rear of thread tension disc A and the thread from the front spool pin in front of the tension disc A

Preparation

Changing the thread

► cut the spool thread before the pre-tension and pull out

of the sewing computer to front near the needle

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Thread-Guide-and-Lubricating Unit

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As a thread-guide eyelet (Fig. 1)

Use the unit without lubricator for a controlled guiding of the thread into the pretensioner, e.g. when using lively thread types.

As a thread lubricator (Fig. 2)

Using the lubricator is advisable when using e.g. threads with high function values, metallic threads, loosely twisted thread types etc. The silicone fluid improves the threads‘ gliding properties considerably and therefore helps to produce flawless stitching results.

Assembly

► insert the unit into the spool-holder cover fixture and

push down entirely (Fig. 1)

► insert the lubricator into the holder on the left side of the

unit, taking care to place the lubricator in such way that

the openings for the thread are in line with the thread

flow or thread direction (Fig. 2)

► moisten the felt, add a few drops of silicone fluid

► place the thread spool onto the middle or rear spool pin

as usual. Then guide the thread through the respective

eyelet of the telescopic rod and the eyelet of the

thread-guide-and-lubricating unit

Preparation

► hold the thread with both hands, pull it in to the slit of the

felt, pulling it down as far as it goes so that it‘ll stay in

the felt during machine operation (Fig. 3)

► continue and complete threading the sewing computer

as normal

► take care that the felt remains moistened. It mustn‘t dry

out. Apply some drops of silicone fluid once in a while to

keep it moist

► during the initial threading of the sewing computer and

when the radial thread release is used it is advisable to

pull an extra inch of thread from the spool before the

threader button is pushed (Fig. 4)

The silicone fluid must ONLY be used for thread lubrication. Never use it to lubricate the hook system!

When using the Thread-Guide-and-Lubrification Unit and depending on the type of thread used it might be necessary to reduce the upper-thread tension slightly to achieve perfect stitching results,

► to remove the Thread-Guide-and-Lubrification Unit,

push the entire unit up

Reattach the Thread-Guide-and-Lubrification Unit. Thread the sewing computer as usual, including the eyelet of the unit (Fig. 2).

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Various Options of Application

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► Vertical thread unwinding (with or without lubricator)

from normal spool pin or optional multiple spool holder (Fig. 1-3)

Radial Thread Guide

► Radial thread unwinding (with or without lubricator)

(Fig. 4)

► during the initial threading of the sewing computer and

when the radial thread release is used it is advisable to pull an extra inch of thread from the spool before the threader button is pushed (Fig. 5)

Preparation

How to use the thread guide

► it is preferable to replace the standard foam disc with

the foam rotary disc (with white plastic inner part) on the rear spool pin

The extra thread guide ensures the consistent thread release, when using threads i.e. metallic, lively or even wounded thread spools.

► place thread spool on spool pin and guide thread

through thread guide. Then run thread via middle eyelet of telescopic rod. Continue threading the sewing computer as normal

► during the initial threading of the sewing computer and

when the radial thread release is used it is advisable to pull an extra inch of thread from the spool before the threader button is pushed

Any of the two spool pins (see arrow markings) can be used. However, it is best to use the rear pin due to its more favourable unwinding angle. Refrain from using the pin of the winder.

In order to achieve perfect stitching results, it might be necessary to reduce the upper-thread tension slightly when using the radial thread unwinding and depending on the thread used.

It is absolutely essential to use the correct foam disc under the thread spool.

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Changing the Needle

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Preparation

► raise the needle ► lower the presser foot and turn the power switch to «0»

Removing the Needle

► loosen the clamp screw with the gray screwdriver and

pull needle down

Turn the handwheel to lower the needle in order to get better access to the fastening screw.

Inserting the Needle

► flat side of needle to the back ► insert the needle with the mulitfunction tool as far as it

will go

► tighten needle clamp screw

Changing the Presser Foot

► raise the needle and presser foot ► turn power switch to «0» (off)

Releasing the Presser Foot

► raise the clamping lever ► remove presser foot

Attaching the Presser Foot

► guide the presser foot upwards over the cone ► touch the clamping lever down

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Stitch plates

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9mm

Stitch Plate Markings

► the stitch plates are marked horizontally, vertically and

diagonaly in mm and inches

► markings help with sewing e.g. precise seaming and top

stitching

► horizontal markings are helpful for sewing corners and

buttonholes etc.

► diagonal markings are helpful for Quilt piecing ► the vertical markings refer to the distance from the

needle to the marking

► needle insertion point is position «0» (= center needle

position)

► measurements are marked to the right and to the left of

center needle position

Removing the Stitch Plate

► raise the presser foot and needle ► turn power switch to «0» (off) ► press the stitch plate down at the right back corner B

until it flips up

► remove stitch plate

Straight Stitch Plate

Feed-Dog and Fabric Feed

Replacing the Stitch Plate

► place the stitch plate over the opening A and press

down until it clicks into place

Changing the Stitch Plate On attaching the straight-stitch plate or the 5.5-mm stitch plate, it is imperative to adjust the settings in Security Program accordingly (see p. 35).

With each stitch the feed-dog moves forward one step. The length of this step is determined by the stitch length selected.

With a very short stitch length the steps are very short. The fabric moves relatively slowly under the presser foot, even at full sewing speed, e.g. buttonholes and satin stitch and decorative stitches are sewn with a very short stitch length.

Preparation

Let the fabric feed fabric evenly.

Pulling, pushing or holding back the fabric will result in uneven stitches.

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Sewing with the Height Compensation Tool

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Preparation

The feed-dog works accurately if the presser foot is level.

If the presser foot is at an angle when sewing over a thick seam, the feed-dog cannot grip. The fabric may jam.

To level the presser foot as required, place one, two or three height-compensating plates behind the needle under the presser foot.

To level the front of the foot, place one or more plates under the right of the presser foot close to the needle. Sew until the presser foot has passed the thick area and remove the plates.

Sewing Corners

Due to the width of the stitch plate hole the outer feed-dog rows are relatively far apart. When sewing corners the fabric does not feed well, since only a part of the fabric is on the feed-dog.

Correct this by placing one or more plates close to the edge of the fabric.

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Thread Tension

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Upper Thread Tension

Higher upper thread tension = the upper thread is tightened, which pulls the lower thread up to the topside of fabric.

Lower upper thread tension = the upper thread is loosened, which enables it to be pulled to the backside of the fabric.

If the thread tension is set to a value below 1 for embroidery, there is a higher risk of unwanted loop occurrence. A warning message will appear.

Basic settings are applied automatically when a stitch pattern or program is selected.

Optimal upper thread tension is set in the factory. For this, Metrosene threads 100/2 weight (Mettler, Switzerland) are used in the bobbin and also in the upper thread.

When using decorative thread, tension adjustments may be neccessary to receive optimal stitching results.

Altering the Tension

► touch the icon and the optimal stitch formation (stitch

formation in the fabric) is displayed

► the red bar on the scale shows the basic value ► turn the stitch width or stitch length knob to the left or

the right = the thread tension is loosened or tightened

► the tension alteration is indicated on the right side of the

thread tension scale

► the tension alteration only affects the stitch selected ► the alteration is shown on the scale (red) and in the

function icon

► the basic setting remains visible (gray) when a change

is made

► the settings are saved by touching ► touch «Reset» to return to basic settings ► touch , settings do not change ► delete: with «clr», «Reset», also when turning off the

sewing computer

Preparation

Lower Thread Tension

► hold bobbin case firmly with your left hand; with your

right hand, turn the hand wheel clockwise until the

setting tool can be slid over the lug at the slider

► basic value:

‣ lug of the slider matches with the marking of the

bobbin carrier, or

‣ lug is shifted 1-2 points to the right, or ‣ lug is shifted 1-2 points to the left

► turn lug to the left with the setting tool = thread tension

becomes looser

► turn lug to the right with the setting tool = thread tension

becomes tighter

► change per point = 4 g

► bring hook into the position shown in the illustration by

turning the handwheel clockwise in order to be able to thread it properly

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Important facts about Thread and Needles

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Thread

The thread is chosen according to its intended use. For a perfect sewing result, thread and fabric quality play an important role. Use of quality brands is recommended.

Cotton Thread

► cotton thread has the advantage of being a natural fiber and is therefore

particularly suited for sewing cotton fabrics

► mercerized cotton thread has a slight sheen and is preshrunk

Polyester Thread

► polyester thread has a high tensile strength and is particularly colorfast ► polyester thread is more resiliant than cotton thread and is recommended

where a strong and elastic seam is required

Needle, Thread and Fabric

Care should be taken when matching the needle and thread.

The correct needle size does not just depend on the thread selected but also on the fabric to be used. The fabric weight and type determines which thread weight, needle size and needle tip to use.

Needles

Needle/Thread

Checking Needle Condition

The condition of the sewing needle should be checked and the needle replaced regularly. A defective needle does not just damage the fabric but also the sewing computer.

As a guide:

Replace the needle before starting a new sewing project.

Correct Combination

To sew optimally, the thread should travel smoothly down the long groove on the front of the needle.

Thread Too Thin or Needle Too Thick

The thread has too much clearance in the groove; there may be skipped stitches or damage to the thread.

Thread Too Thick or Needle Too Thin

The thread rubs on the edges of the groove and can get jammed. This can break the thread.

Page 28

Guidelines

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Fabric/Thread Needle size

Fine fabrics: Fine thread (darning thread, embroidery thread) 70–75

Medium weight fabrics: Normal thread 80–90

Heavy weight fabrics: 100, 110, 120

130/705 H - S / 70

130 Shank length

705 Flat shank

H Needle scarf

S Needle point (here e.g. medium ball point)

Needle

70 Needle size (shank diameter)

Page 29

Overview

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Needle

Universal

130/705 H/60 –100

Normal point, slightly rounded

For nearly all natural and synthetic fabrics (woven and knitted)

Jersey/Stretch

130/705 H-S, H-SES, H-SUK/70–90

Ball point

Jersey, stretch fabrics

Leather

130/705 H-LL, H-LR/90–100

With cutting point

All types of leather, synthetic leather, plastic, sheeting

Metafil

130/705 H-MET/75-90 or H-SUK/90-100

Large eye

Sewing with metallic threads

Cordonnet (Topstitching)

130/705 H-N/80–100

Small ball point, long eye

Topstitching with thick thread

Wing needle (hemstitch needle)

130/705 HO/100–120

Wide needle (wing)

Hemstitching

Jeans

130/705 H-J/80–110

Very fine sharp point

Heavy weight fabrics such as jeans, canvas, overalls

Microtex

130/705 H-M/60–90

Especially fine sharp point

Micro fiber fabrics and silk

Quilting

130/705 H-Q/75–90

Fine sharp point

Straight and topstitching

Embroidery

130/705 H-SUK/70–90

Double wing needle

130/705 H-ZWI-HO/100

For special effects with hemstitch embroidery

Double needle

130/705 H-ZWI/70–100

Needle distance: 1.0/1.6/2.0/

2.5/3.0/4.0/6.0/8.0

Visible hems in stretch fabrics, pin tucks, decorative sewing

Triple needle

130/705 H-DRI/80

Large eye, slight ball point

Embroidery on all natural and synthetic fabrics

Needle distance: 3.0

For decorative sewing

Page 30

Functions & Settings

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Overview 30

Function Buttons 30

Display 32

Functions 34

Sewing 34

Setup Program 36

Entry Screen 36

Display 37 Wallpaper 37 Sewing 38 Securing stitches on/off 38 Embroidery 40 Adjusting Embroidery Settings 40 Fabric Thickness 40 Calibrating the Hoop 40 Screen Calibration 41 Monitoring 42 Information 43 Version 44 Service Data 44 Update 44 Cleaning the sewing/embroidery computer 45 Cleaning 45 Cleaning the needle threading mechanism 45 Lubricating the hook 45 Packing position 46 Calibrating buttonhole foot no. 3A 46 Reset/Delete User Data 47

Creative Consultant 49

General 49

Help Program 50

General 50

Stitch Pattern 50 Functions 50

Balance 51

Balance Description 51

Practical and Decorative Stitches 51 Corrections 51 Sideways Motion Stitches 51 BERNINA Dual Feed 52

Balance/Presser Foot Pressure 52

Presser Foot Pressure Settings 52

ECO 53

ECO Description 53

Tutorial 48

Overview of Topics 48

Page 31

Function Buttons

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Overview

Start/Stop Button

► starts and stops the sewing computer when

operating it without foot control

► slightly raise the presser foot when turning or

moving the project while sewing - hover position

Quick Reverse Button/Backstepping

► secures the seam beginning and end: sews in

reverse as long as the button is pressed

► used to program the buttonhole length ► used to program the darning length ► used to determine end of stitching in straight

stitch Securing stitch no. 5

► used for securing in Quilters Securing

Program no. 1324

► switching for accurate stitch-by-stitch back-

stepping (exact retracing of the last 200

needle penetrations)

Pattern End

► a stop symbol which appears during sewing

indicates that the function is activated

► sewing computer stops at the end of the active

single pattern or the active pattern of a

combination

Automatic Thread Cutter

► upper and lower threads are cut automatically ► 2-6 securing stitches can be programmed in

the setup program - these are sewn before the

thread is cut

When using metallic or cordonnet thread, use the thread cutter on the head frame only.

Automatic Needle Threader

► touch button = completes the threading

process and threads the needle

Double, triple and wing needles require manual threading after the button has been pressed. Use the automatic needle threader for needle sizes 70 - 120. Metallic threads, thick threads like cordonnet and difficult to work with threads should be threaded by hand.

The automatic threader mustn‘t be activated with one of these presser feet attached: nos. 50, 55, 80, 85 and 86.

Needle Stop Up/Down

In the default setting the needle symbol is displayed above the presser foot indicator.

► touch the button briefly:

‣ the needle is raised or lowered (as when

tapping the foot control with your heel)

► touch the button longer:

‣ the needle is lowered, the needle symbol is

displayed below

‣ the sewing computer stops with the needle

down

‣ this becomes your default setting

► touch the button longer again:

‣ the needle is raised, the needle symbol is

displayed above

‣ the sewing computer stops with the needle

Page 32

Overview

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Presser Foot Position

► touch the button = the presser foot is lowered

and raised slightly again so the fabric can be easily positioned. When sewing starts the foot is lowered on to the material

► touch the button again = the presser foot is

raised and the Feed-dog is simultaneously lowered

Automatic Securing Program

► touch the button before the sewing starts or

during sewing = single patterns are secured at the end, with the selected number of stitches programmed

► touch the button before starting a combination

= the first pattern is secured at the end, with the number of stitches programmed

► touch the button while stitching a combination

= the active pattern is secured at the end, with the number of stitches programmed

► the sewing computer stops automatically after

all securing variations

► the number and type of the securing stitches

can be programmed in the setup program

Slide Speed Control

► the motor speed is infinitely

variable with the slide

Altering Needle Positions

► touch left button – the needle

moves to the left

► touch right button – the needle

moves to the right

► quick change – hold the button

down

► total of 11 needle positions

(5 left, 5 right, 1 center)

Stitch Width/Length (Multifunction) Knobs

► to adjust stitch width or length ► to alter thread tension ► to alter presser foot pressure ► to adjust the sewing direction when

in «directional sewing»

► to adjust button size or the slit size

of the buttonhole

► to adjust the balance

Page 33

Display

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Menu Selection

A Practical stitches B Decorative stitches C Alphabets D Buttonholes E Quilt stitches F Personal Program G History

Overview

H Setup Program I Tutorial J Creative Consultant K Help L ECO M Embroidery/Sewing

mode

N clr - Delete

Stitch Display

O Stitch Pattern

selections

System Settings

Page 34

Selection

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P Single/Combi mode

Q Scroll up/down

Stitch Altering Area

R Display of the stitch

pattern selected

Overview

Functions

S Balance T Thread tension U Pressure foot

pressure

V Multi-Directional

sewing W Securing function X Pattern repeat Y Security program Z Lower Feed Dog Za Stitch selection by

number

S T U V

Zb Time/Alarm

W X Y Z ZbZa

Page 35

Sewing

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Active functions are highlighted in blue, inactive functions are gray. The multifunction keys are switched off by keeping them pressed a few seconds.

Functions

Confirm Selection

► activate or confirm change/selection

Leave Active Screen

► close application ► return to the last active screen

Long stitch

► the sewing computer sews every second

stitch (max. stitch length 12mm)

► can be used for practical and decorative

stitches

► exception: buttonholes and sideways motion

stitches

Mirror Image (Up/Down)

► the sewing computer sews the selected stitch

pattern in vertical Mirror Image (up/down – determined by the sewing direction)

Mirror Image (Left/Right)

► the sewing computer sews the selected stitch

pattern in horizontally Mirror Image (left/right – determined by the sewing direction)

Stitch Counter

► when the desired length is achieved (e.g. first

buttonhole bead or straight stitch), touch the Quick Reverse Button

► the display changes to «auto» (for the

buttonhole, only after length of second bead is determined by pressing the Quick Reverse Button)

► the stitch pattern selected is temporarily

programmed

Pattern Extend 2-5x

► touch the icon one or more times, the

numbers 2-5 appear

► stitch integrity is maintained ► stitch pattern is extended

Pattern begin

► the needle moves to the beginning of a stitch

pattern or program

Buttonhole Length Direct Entry

► enter buttonhole length via stitch width or

stitch length knob. Number in mm

Pattern repeat 1-9x

► touch the icon several times, the numbers 1-9

appear

► number 1: the sewing computer stops at the

end of an individual stitch or stitch combina-

tion

► numbers 2-9: the sewing computer stops at

the end of a stitch or stitch combination after

the number of repeats selected

Moving single stitch patterns

► move single stitch patterns of combinations

horizontally, vertically or diagonally

Moving multiple stitch patterns

► move parts of stitch patterns combinations

horizontally, vertically or diagonally

Retrieve

► switches between the stitches combined ► active stitch is shown in color and can be

moved

Manual Buttonhole

► special screen appears ► sew manual buttonhole in 5 or 7 steps

(depending on buttonhole type)

Programming Buttonhole Length

► icon is automatically highlighted in blue when

a buttonhole is selected

► set the buttonhole length with the Quick

Reverse Button or directly program the length displayed by pressing the icon

► function turns inactive after programming the

length

► if a new length is to be programmed, touch

icon again

Feed-dog position

► touch the icon «lower feed-dog» = feed-dog is

lowered

► the lowered feed-dog is shown by the red,

flashing symbol

Buttonhole Slit Width

► set the buttonhole slit width to between 0.1mm

and 2.0mm using the Stitch Width or the Stitch Length Knob

► the standard width is 0.6mm

Securing

► touch icon before sewing starts = single

pattern is secured at the start with 4 securing stitches

► touch icon during sewing individual stitches =

individual stitches will be secured at the end, the sewing computer stops

► program the function within a pattern combina-

tion = each individual pattern of the combination can be secured at the start or the end

Multi-function button

► only active in combination mode ► when selected, a screen with further functions

appears

Lettering size in alphabets

► when alphabet is selected, the lettering size is

9mm

► when the function is selected, «2» is activated

and the alphabet is sewn with 6mm lettering size

Page 36

Lettering size in monograms

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► when monogram is selected, the lettering size

is 30mm

► touch the icon several times ► the blue area shows the lettering size:

1 = 30mm (standard) 2 = 20mm 3 = 15mm

Thread tension

► change upper thread tension ► the respective value is visible in the icon

Presser foot pressure

► increase or decrease the presser foot pressure

using the multifunction knobs

► the respective value is visible in the icon

Connecting Stitches

► opens the screen to add connecting stitches

Combination subdivider (1)

► each combination or memory folder can be

subdivided into several parts

► only those parts where the cursor is located

will be sewn

► to sew another part, the cursor must be

placed in this part

Combination subdivider (2)

► each combination can be subdivided as

desired

► after stopping, the needle moves to the next

part to be sewn

Presser foot indicator

► number of presser foot recommended is

shown for the stitch pattern selected

► if the presser foot is raised it is indicated with

an animation

► touch the icon ► screen is opened with further presser foot

options

Back Stepping

► the last 200 needle penetrations of a stitch

pattern are retraced, i.e. sewn backwards

(see p. 80 on how to select the function)

Save

► save stitch pattern combinations and lettering

Delete

► e.g. single stitch pattern, pattern combina-

tions, memory bank contents, stitch pattern in

personal program etc.

Balance

► balance forward and reverse stitches ► balance sideways motion stitches ► balance dual feed

Stitch selection by numbers

► select individual stitch pattern by inputting the

stitch pattern number

Time/Alarm

► set the current time (hh:mm) in the upper part

of the screen using the «+» and «-» icons

► touch the alarm button in the lower part of the

display

► set the alarm time using the «+» and «-» or

the multifunction knobs. A personal message can be input using the keyboard

► the current time now appears in red numbers

Multi-Directional Sewing

► use the stitch width knob to rotate the stitch

pattern or combination in 0.5° steps, the stitch length knob for 1° steps or the direct-selection buttons for rotating in 45° steps into the desired direction

► the sewing direction is shown in the left part of

the display

► the start is marked with a green dot and the

end with a red cross

► the function only appears if the selected stitch

can be sewn in multiple directions

Test-sew first on a piece of the fabric you intend to use for the sewing project.

Security Program

► when selecting the respective needle icon the

stitch width will be limited automatically

► this prevents the inserted special needle

(double needle etc.) from hitting the presser foot or stitch plate = avoiding needle breakage

► the numbers on the needles represent the

distance in mm between the needles

► by selecting the standard needle icon the

standard needle is active again and the stitch width limitation is switched off

► by selecting the corresponding stitch plate the

stitch width is automatically limited, so the inserted standard needle cannot hit the stitch plate

► the function remains active even when the

sewing computer is turned off and on

Functions

Permanent reverse sewing

Upper/Lower Case

File Drawers

► the sewing computer sews backwards

permanently (see p. 80 on how to select the

function)

► switch from upper case to lower case lettering

► saved stitches are visible

Single Mode

► the Single Mode is always active (blue) when

turning on the sewing computer and only the selected stitch can be sewn

Combi Mode

► touch the button ► the Combi Mode is active (blue) and stitch

combinations can be programmed

Page 37

Entry Screen

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The Setup Program enables you to personalize the touch screen according to your own requirements and preferences. After setting the sewing computer to your personal requirements, all changes made in the Setup Program are saved, even when the sewing computer is switched off. Exceptions from this rule are outlined within the description of the function concerned in each case.

Setup Program

Selection Menu

1 Display (screen) settings 2 Sewing settings 3 Embroidery settings 4 Display (screen) calibration 5 Monitoring settings 6 Information 7 Update sewing computer 8 Cleaning the sewing/embroidery computer 9 Reset basic settings

Customized alterations are saved even when the sewing computer is switched off. Alterations can be re-programmed at any time.

The System Settings can be changed using the stitch width and stitch length knobs and the «+/-» icons. «Reset» button resets to the basic System Settings.

Page 38

Display

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Brightness

► turn stitch width knob or touch the «+» or «-» icon the

brightness 1 of the screen is altered

► alterations are indicated by the number in the bar and

the blue background of the «+» or «-» icons

► the basic settings are indicated by a dark bar

Sewing Light

► when icon 2 is active, the sewing light is on ► when the icon is inactive, the sewing light is off ► the brightness can be set with the stitch length knob or

the «+» or «-» icon

Welcome Text

► create or change Welcome Text 3 ► space bar is at the bottom of the letter keys ► welcome text 4 appears in the text icon above the letter

keys

► touch the text icon = text entered is completely deleted

► text entered is deleted from right to left

► «ABC» all in upper case (standard) ► «abc» all in lower case ► «1,2,3» numbers and mathematical

character

► «Ä À Á», «ä à á» and

«@ #» upper and lower special characters

Setup Program

Wallpaper

Select desired screen wallpaper.

► choose from different images ► default image = edelweiss

Page 39

Sewing

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Motor Speed

► alter maximum sewing speed 1 ► the number in the bar is the stitches per minute; the

basic value is indicated by a dark bar

Setup Program

The tension alteration affects all stitches and stitch patterns and is saved even when the sewing-/embroidery computer is switched off.

5 6

Thread Tension

► alter the basic setting (0) of the upper thread tension 2

by plus or minus 20%

0 = basic settings

Securing stitches on/off

► function 3 is active = standard ► if the automatic thread cutter is used to cut the threads,

4 securing stitches will be stitched when resuming sewing

► function is inactive = no securing stitches will be stitched

Automatic Securing Program

► the number and type of the securing stitches can be

programmed

► standard = four securing stitches in the same place ► select function 4 for forward securing stitches ► 3-6 securing stitches can be programmed

Automatic Thread Cutter

► if function 5 is activated, the upper and lower thread are

automatically cut after sewing

Raise Presser Foot

► if function is activated 6 the presser foot is raised after

securing

► if function is not activated, the presser foot stays down

Page 40

Needle Stop Adjustment

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► if the automatic thread cutter and the «raise presser

foot» function are switched off when securing, the

needle stop position 7 can be selected

► standard = sewing computer stops with the needle up

while the presser foot stays down after securing

► touch «Needle down» icon ► the sewing computer stops with the needle down after

securing

Automatic Thread Cutter and Securing Stitches

► the number and type of securing stitches before the

thread is cut can be programmed

► touch function 8 for securing stitches in place or function

9 for forward securing stitches

► two to six securing stitches can be programmed ► standard = no securing stitches programmed

Setup Program

1 2 3

Presser foot position when needle stop down

► with activated icon 1, the presser foot remains down

when the sewing computer stops

► with activated icon 2, the presser foot is raised enough

to pivot the fabric (hover position)

► with activated icon 3, the presser foot is raised into its

highest position

Hover position of presser foot

► the stitch width and stitch length multi-function knobs

can be used to set the clearance from 0mm to 7mm in

maximum (standard clearance is 2 mm)

► the set value, i.e. the clearance between the fabric and

the presser foot, is displayed in icon 4

Page 41

Embroidery

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Setup Program

Adjusting Embroidery Settings

► the motor speed and thread tension can be adjusted the

same way as in sewing mode, and the automatic thread cutter activated or deactivated (will cut the threads at color changes if activated)

2 3

Fabric Thickness

► if the fabric 1 is more than 4mm thick, e.g. toweling,

select the 7.5mm or 10mm icon

► this ensures that the embroidery hoop is only moved

when the needle is no longer in the material

Thread-Cutting After Start of Embroidering

► with active field 2, the embroidery computer will stop

after approx. 7 stitches and the thread ends can be cut

► with inactive field, the embroidery computer won‘t stop

Securing Stitches

► function 3 is active = standard securing ► i.e. selecting a embroidery motif, threading or cutting the

threads using the automatic thread cutter will trigger the stitching of 3 securing stitches

► function is inactive = no securing stitches will be

stitched, i.e. the lower thread must be taken up either manually (handwheel) or by «back heel kicking» the foot control. The threads must be held when starting to embroider

To calibrate the hoop, select «Next Page».

Calibrating the Hoop

«Adjust Reference Position» calibrates the needle to the center of the hoop. Adjustments can only be done if the embroidery module is attached.

► select the required hoop and follow the instructions on

the screen

Page 42

Screen Calibration

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► place embroidery template into the embroidery hoop ► the hoop position is detected and the needle positioned

in the center

► if the needle is not positioned exactly in the center of the

embroidery template, use the arrow icons to position it

accurately

► touch until the selection menu appears ► the adjustment is saved

The calibration screen can also be opened this way:

► switch sewing-/embroidery computer off

(to «0»)

► touch the two needle positioning buttons

on the front panel and keep them pressed

► switch sewing-/embroidery computer on

(to «I») and as soon as the calibration screen is opened, release the two buttons

Setup Program

► touch the calibration icon ► another screen appears

► with touch pen touch the center of the cross. The cross

moves to the next position

► repeat this until all three positions shown are calibrated ► touch

to save settings

Page 43

Monitoring

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Setup Program

Audio System

► sounds can be activated or deactivated 1

Selecting Stitch Pattern/Function/BSR

► stitch patterns and function selection 2 can be confirmed

acoustically

► touch the speaker icon until you hear the desired sound ► there are six different sounds to choose from ► this icon is blue and the sound is indicated by a number

(1-6)

► the sounds for functions (center) and the sound for

quilting with BSR (bottom) can be activated or deactiva-

ted in the same way

► deactivation is the last option shown when scrolling

through the different sounds

Monitoring Functions

The following monitoring functions can be activated or deactivated:

Upper thread indicator Lower thread indicator Optimum interlocking of upper and lower thread Sewing without thread

► blue with open eye = function active ► gray with closed eye = function inactive ► the sound type for the monitoring functions is set in the

audio settings for function

Sewing without thread

► don‘t thread the sewing computer with upper thread

(or remove it entirely)

► press the large field on the left ► sewing without thread is activated ► the other three monitoring functions are deactivated and

disappear

► the automatic thread cutter is deactivated ► selecting another presser foot or switching the sewing

computer off deactivates the function

Page 44

Information

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Needle Chart

► select the needle inserted ► when the sewing computer is switched on, the needle

selected will be displayed

► touch the arrow icon to scroll through to the needle

types

Setup Program

Language

► scroll through the languages by touching the arrow

icons and select the language required

Dealer Details

► by pressing the respective gray bar the following

information about your BERNINA dealer can be entered:

‣ store name ‣ last name, first name ‣ telephone number ‣ website or e-mail address

Page 45

Setup Program

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Version

► the current versions of the sewing computer and the

embroidery module (must be connected to the sewing

computer) can be seen

► the total number of stitches and the number of stitches

sewn since the last servicing by the BERNINA dealer

are displayed

Service Data

Service data of the actual condition of your sewing computer can be saved on a USB stick and sent to your authorized BERNINA dealer:

► insert the USB stick into your sewing-/embroidery

computer

► touch «LOG» ► after the data is saved remove the USB stick

Update

Updating

► insert BERNINA USB stick with the new software

version

► touch «Update» ► touch «Update» again to start the process ► it is then determined if:

‣ a BERNINA USB stick is inserted ‣ there is enough free space available (at least 10 MB)

‣ the correct software version is on the stick ► the data and settings are accepted ► if the update was successful, a message appears and

the sewing computer is ready to sew again

► if the update cannot be started or if there are problems

during the update process, an error message appears

Do not remove the BERNINA USB stick until there is a message which indicates the end of the update.

Page 46

Cleaning the sewing/embroidery computer

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Cleaning

► clean the sewing-/embroidery computer according to the

instructions

► touch field 1 ► the thread catcher of the automatic thread cutter moves

to the right

► carefully remove any thread remnants with the tweezers ► touch field 3 ► the automatic thread cutter is re-initialized and then

ready for operation

Setup Program

Cleaning the needle threading mechanism

► clean the needle threading mechanism according to the

instructions and animation

Lubricating the hook

► lubricating the hook according to the instructions and

animation

Page 47

Setup Program

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Packing position

Do not move the embroidery arm of the embroidery module by hand. Follow the on-screen instructions to fit the embroidery module back into its original packaging.

Calibrating buttonhole foot no. 3A

► attach buttonhole foot no. 3A ► press the Start-/Stop button (green) on the head frame ► the buttonhole foot will move forward and backward ► buttonhole foot will calibrate and sewing computer will

indicate that the calibration has been successful

► the buttonhole foot is now set for this particular sewing

computer, and should only be used with this one

Page 48

Reset/Delete User Data

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Choose from the following options by pressing the Reset button:

A B C

1 Reset Settings 2 Delete User Data

Setup Program

Reset Settings

Choose from the following options by pressing bar 1:

A Reset Sewing B Reset Embroidery C Reset All

► touch the bar whose settings are to be returned to the

basic settings

► confirm with ► the previous screen appears ► touch until the selection menu appears

Delete User Data

Choose from the following options by pressing bar 2:

D Sewing «Personal Program» E Embroidery «My Designs» F Embroidery «Memory Stick» (the Memory Stick

must be inserted in the sewing computer)

► touch the bar that the settings are to be deleted ► confirm with ► the data is deleted and the previous screen appears ► touch

until the selection menu appears

Page 49

Overview of Topics

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The Tutorial provides information and explanations about the different areas of sewing and embroidering.

Tutorial

1 Threading 2 Needles 3 Presser foot 4 BERNINA Stitch Regulator (BSR) 5 Troubleshooting

6 Freehand system FHS 7 Miscellaneous 8 Embroidery 9 Buttonholes 10 Quilting 11 Techniques

► select desired topic, e.g. presser foot ► topic overview about the presser foot appears ► select desired topic, e.g. changing the presser foot

► information on the desired topic is shown ► use the stitch width or stitch length knob, the finger or the

touchscreen pen to scroll through the text in the screen

► animations can be stopped or replayed by touching the

icon in the bottom right corner

► touch the animation with your finger or the touchscreen

pen and travel to the right or left

► the playing of the animation is controlled manually now ► touch the animation again to switch back to automatic

playing mode

► use these two icons to go to the previous or next page ► touch to close the Tutorial screen ► the last active screen appears

Page 50

General

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The Creative Consultant provides information and help with various sewing techniques. After selecting the fabric and the desired sewing technique suggestions for suitable needles, presser feet etc. are displayed. Presser foot pressure and upper thread tension are set automatically.

Fabric Types

► the most commonly used fabric types are listed in three

Main Stitch Categories

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Stitch Patterns 56

Selection 56

via Screen 56 by Stitch Number 56 Selecting a Presser Foot 56

Customizing Stitch Patterns 57

Altering Stitch Width and Stitch Length 57 Altering Needle Position 57 Securing with Quick Reverse Button on Head Frame 57 Temporary Altered Stitch Memory 57 For All Stitch Types and Materials 57 Resetting to the Factory Setting 57

Practical Stitches 58

Practical Stitches Description 58

Decorative Stitches 60

Decorative Stitches Description 60

Tapering 61

Setting 61

Combining with Functions 62

Mirroring Decorative Stitches 62 Long Stitch Function 62 Pattern Extend 62 Pattern Extend with Long Stitch 63 Double, Triple or Wing Needle 63

Automatic 72

Direct Entry Length 72 Button Measurement 72

Programming 73

Automatic Buttonhole 73 Standard and Stretch Buttonhole 73 Round and keyhole buttonholes 73 Hand-look buttonhole 74 Stitch Counter Buttonhole 74 All Buttonhole Types 74

In Long-Term Memory 75

Button Sew-On Program 75

Eyelet Program 76

Sewing Eyelets 76 Punching Eyelets 76

Quilt Stitches 77

Quilt Stitches Description 77

Personal Program 78

Creating a Customized Stitch Menu 78

Preparing Stitch Patterns 78

Personal Screen 78

Altering Stitch Patterns 79

Combi Mode 64

Combining Practical and Decorative Stitches 64

Alphabets 65

Alphabets Description 65

Lettering 65

Perfect Stitch Formation 65

Combining Lettering 66

Alphabets 66 Correcting Combinations 66

Combining Lettering and Functions 67

Select Lower Case 67 Change Size 67

Monograms 68

Monogram Sizes 68 Balance 68

Buttonholes 69

Buttonholes Description 69

Combining with Functions 70

Manual 5- or 7-Step Buttonhole 70

Balance 71

Deleting Stitch Patterns 80

Special Screen 80

History 81

History Description 81

Long Term Memory 82

Long Term Memory Description 82

Creating Stitch Combinations 82

Programming and Saving 82

Deleting Stitch Patterns 83

Deleting patterns in steps 83 Deleting a Combination 83 Opening Empty File Drawers 83

Drawer Content at a Glance 84

Opening a Saved Stitch Combination 84

Correcting a Stitch Combination 85

Inserting Stitch Patterns 85 Altering a Stitch Combination 85 Mirroring Entire Combinations 85 Combination Subdivider 1 86 Combination Subdivider 2 86 Connecting Stitches 86

Deleting a Stitch Combination 87

Overwriting 87 Deleting 87

Page 57

Selection

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via Screen

by Stitch Number

Stitch Patterns

2 3

► select from main categories A - G

A Practical stitches B Decorative stitches C Alphabets D Buttonholes

E Quilt stitches F Personal Program

G History

► the available stitch patterns appear in display section H ► select desired stitch pattern

► scroll I to view all other stitch patterns of the category

Input

► select stitch pattern by entering the number after

touching the icon J

► number keys 1 appear in display section H ► the selected stitch number appears 2 ► 3 to delete the previously entered number ► the entire number is deleted if you touch 2 ► confirm entry 4

Selecting a Presser Foot

4 5

Cancel

► back to the previous screen without selecting stitch

pattern 5

An invalid stitch number will be indicated in bar 2 with 3 question marks.

► any selected stitch pattern appears together with the

optimum presser foot in the stitch altering area

► attach the recommended presser foot ► touch the «Presser Foot Selection» icon top left in the

screen

► in the opened presser foot category, select the icon that

shows the attached presser foot, and confirm . As an

alternative, attach one of the options shown in the lower

portion of the screen, select the respective presser foot

icon and confirm

► the attached presser foot appears in the «Presser Foot

Selection» icon

► depending on the presser foot attached, the presser

foot category may change

It is IMPORTANT to select the attached presser foot in the respective presser foot category to enable the sewing computer to recognize it and to activate the respective safety settings.

Page 58

Customizing Stitch Patterns

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A stitch pattern can be individually altered according to the fabric and the application. The adjustments described here are applicable for all practical and many decorative stitches.

Altering Stitch Width and Stitch Length

Altering Needle Position

► alter stitch width and stitch length using the knobs ► stitch width and stitch length can be altered while

sewing

► touch the relevant button to move the needle position.

To move quickly hold the button down

► 11 needle positions in total (5 left, 5 right, 1 center) ► can be altered while sewing

Stitch Patterns

Securing with Quick Reverse Button on Head Frame

► secures the beginning and end of the seam ► touch the Quick Reverse button = sewing computer

sews in reverse (backstepping)

► release the Quick Reverse button = sewing computer

sews forwards

Temporary Altered Stitch Memory

For All Stitch Types and Materials

► altered stitch length, stitch width and needle position are

automatically saved as well as functions like mirror

image

► sew an altered stitch (e.g. zigzag stitch) ► select another stitch and sew (e.g. straight stitch) ► when retrieving the individually altered zigzag stitch, the

alterations are retained

► the temporary altered stitch memory can contain any

number of stitch patterns

The altered stitch memory can hold as many stitch alterations as needed:

► Stitch length ► Stitch width ► Needle position ► Pattern extend ► Mirror images ► Long stitch function ► Thread tension ► Balance ► Pattern repeat 1 - 9x

Resetting to the Factory Setting

► option 1: touch «clr» button ► option 2: restore stitch width and stitch length by

touching the stitch width/stitch length bar (or manually

by turning the knob); reset other functions manually

► option 3: switch off sewing computer

Page 59

Practical Stitches Description

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► touch the «Practical stitches» icon ► 15 practical stitches are visible in the display ► further practical stitches are visible by scrolling

Straight stitch

For non-elastic fabric; all straight stitch work, such as seams, topstitching, sewing in a zipper

Zigzag

Zigzag work such as overcasting edges,

Practical Stitches

attaching elastic and lace

Vari-Overlock

For fine jerseys, stretch overlock seams, hems and stretch seams

Running Stitch

Most types of fabric. Mending, patching, reinforcing seams, sewing over decorative threads

Securing Program

For all fabrics; secures the beginning and end of seams by straight stitching

Double Overlock

For all types of knit; overlock stitch, finished edge

Super Stretch Stitch

For highly elastic fabrics. Highly elastic open seam for all types of clothing

Gathering Stitch

For most fabrics. Gathering with shirring elastic. Butted seams (edge-to-edge) and decorative stitches

Stretch Overlock

For medium weight knits, toweling and firm wovens; overlock seam, flat joining seams

Jersey Stitch

For jersey fabrics; visible seams in lingerie, sweaters; mending jerseys

Triple Straight Stitch

Reinforced seams in firm fabrics, visible hems and seams

Triple Zig-Zag

Reinforced seams in firm fabrics, visible hems and seams, couching, decorative stitching

Honeycomb Stitch

Most types of interlock and smooth fabrics, visible seams, hems, linens and some types of mending

Blindstitch

For most types of fabric; blind hems; shell edging in soft jerseys and fine fabrics; decorative seams

Universal Stitch

For firmer fabrics such as felt and leather; flat joining seam, visible seam, attaching elastic, decorative seam

Sewn-out Zig-Zag

Oversewing woven fabrics, reinforcing edges, decorative seam

Lycra Stitch

For lycra fabrics, flat joining seams, hems, reinforcing seams on underwear

Stretch Stitch

For highly elastic fabrics, open seam for sportswear

Page 60

Reinforced Overlock

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For medium-weight knit fabrics and jerseys, overlock seam, flat joining seam

Blindstitch narrow

Blind hems on fine fabrics

Knit Overlock

For knit fabrics, machine and hand-made items, overlock seam: sewing and finishing in one step

Basting Stitch

Basting seams, hems, etc. temporarily

Darning Program

Automatic darning of fine to medium weight fabrics

Reinforced Darning Program

Automatic darning of firm fabrics

Bartack Program

Reinforcing pocket openings, belt loops etc.

Triple Straight Stitch with Long Stitch

Reinforced seams in heavy fabrics, visible seams and topstitching

Single Straight Stitch

As a connecting stitch between two individual decorative stitch patterns. Typically used in Combi-Mode

Three Single Straight Stitches

As a connecting stitch between two individual decorative stitch patterns in a combination

Darning Stitch

Use for darning in conjunction with the Permanent Reverse function

Practical Stitches

Bartack Program

Reinforcing pocket openings, belt loops, securing zippers and seam ends

Large Fly Stitch

For medium to heavy weight fabrics; reinforcing pocket openings, zippers and slits

Small fly stitch

For fine to medium weight fabrics; reinforcing pocket openings, zippers and slits

Page 61

Decorative Stitches Description

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Cat. 100 = Florals Cat. 200 = Florals sideways

Decorative Stitches

motion Cat. 300 = Cross stitches Cat. 400 = Satin stitches Cat. 500 = Satin stitches Sideways motion Cat. 600 = Ornamental stitches Cat. 700 = Heirloom stitches Cat. 800 = Heirloom stitches Sideways motion Cat. 900 = Novelty Cat. 1000 = Novelty Sideways motion Cat. 1100 = Tassel stitches Cat. 1200 = Filigree stitches Sideways motions Cat. 1400 = Tapering stitches Cat. 1500 = Skyline stitches

► touch the «Decorative stitch» button ► an overview of the categories appears in the display ► touch a button and the desired category is activated ► select a stitch pattern

For sideways motion stitches the fabric is fed forwards and backwards in addition to being fed sideways

► sideways motion stitch patterns are displayed together

with a «4-arrow» icon and the size in mm that appear in the top left corner of the stitch altering area

Application

Depending on the type of the fabric, simple or more complex decorative stitches should be selected to best suit the fabric

► simple decorative stitches in straight stitch design

formation are particularly appropriate for light weight materials (e.g. decorative stitch no. 101)

► simple to more complex decorative stitches - program-

med with triple straight stitch or with a few satin stitches

- are particularly suitable for medium weight fabrics (e.g. decorative stitch no. 107)

► more complex decorative stitches - programmed with

satin stitches - are well suited to heavy weight fabrics (e.g. decorative stitch no. 401)

Perfect Stitch Formation

► use the same thread weight for upper and

lower threads

► for a perfect stitch formation reinforce the

fabric piece on the wrong side using stabilizer

► use an additional, water-soluble stabilizer

on the right side of pile or longfiber fabrics (e.g. wool, velvet etc.) which can be easily removed after sewing

Page 62

Tapering

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Setting

► tapering is a technique in which the stitch patterns come

to a point at the beginning and end

► four different angles are pre-programmed; you can set

the angle yourself on the fifth page

► select stitch no. 1401

► the tapering screen appears ► the first segment (1) is active ► segment (1) and (3) have a programmed length; you

can set the length of section (2) yourself

Programming the Length of Section 2

► field is blue (active) when a tapering pattern is

selected

► sew the first section ► use the Quick Reverse button on the head

frame to set the length of section 2

► once the length is programmed, the field is

turned off (inactive, gray)

► after the second section is programmed, the

third section is automatically sewn and the

sewing computer stops

► to program a new length, reselect the field

Programming the Length of Section 2 by Entering mm

► touch the icon ► program the length with the stitch width or

stitch length knob

► sew the stitch pattern ► all three sections are automatically sewn and

the sewing computer stops

► to program a new length, reselect the field

Decorative Stitches

► use the top «+» and «-» buttons to move the tips of the

pattern from -1.00 (far left) to 1.00 (far right)

► standard setting = -1.00 ► touch the active field in the center to place the tips in the

center of the pattern (0.00)

► use the bottom «+» and «-» buttons to set the angle of

the tips between 0.00° and 90.00°

► standard setting = 60.00° ► touch the active field in the center to set the angle to

45.00°

Manually Setting the Length of Section 2

► touch the icon ► sew first section ► use the Quick Reverse button on the head

frame to set the length of section 2

► the third section is automatically sewn and the

sewing computer stops

► the length is not programmed, and must be

reset each time a new tapered pattern is started

Selecting the Tapering Angle

► touch the symbols to select another angle

Closing the Tapering Screen

► touch the icon ► the tapering screen is closed and the tapering

patterns appear

Page 63

Combining with Functions

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Mirroring Decorative Stitches

Long Stitch Function

Decorative Stitches

Amazing effects can be created by combining decorative stitches and functions.

► touch Mirror Image (left/right) function ► the stitch pattern is mirrored left/right

► touch Mirror Image (up/down) function ► the stitch pattern is mirrored in the sewing direction, up/

down

► touch both mirror functions simultaneously ► the stitch pattern is mirrored vertically and horizontally

► touch Long Stitch function ► the sewing computer sews every second stitch in the

stitch sequence

Pattern Extend

► touch the Pattern Extend function once or several

times

► the stitch pattern selected is extended (i.e. stretched)

2 – 5 times, while retaining the consistency of the stitch

► some stitch patterns have a limited extension capability

and cannot be extended 3 – 5 times

Page 64

Pattern Extend with Long Stitch

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Double, Triple or Wing Needle

► touch Pattern extend function one or more times ► additionally touch the Long Stitch function

► after inserting the special needle, activate the needle

limitation in the Security Program

► when selecting the stitch pattern, the stitch width is

automatically limited to match the needle selected

► the best effects are achieved with simple stitch

patterns

Decorative Stitches

Security Program

► icon must be manually reset to deactivate ► security remains engaged after sewing

computer is turned off

Page 65

Combi Mode

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► select Combi Mode ► Combi Mode is opened, allowing you to create pattern combinations

Combining Practical and Decorative Stitches

► select desired stitch ► the stitch appears in the Stitch Altering Area ► select next stitch ► continue in this manner until the desired combination is

complete

► correcting in a combination, see page 85 ► saving a combination, see page 82

Most of the practical and decorative stitches can be combined. With the exception of these special programs:

Securing programs

► No. 5, No. 1324

Complete combination mirrored sideways

► touch the «Multifunction» icon

Decorative Stitches

► touch the «Mirror image (left/right)» icon,

and the entire combination is mirrored sideways

Add the Securing function

There are various options for securing stitch patterns automatically:

► touch securing function before starting to

sew = pattern combination is secured at the beginning

► to program the securing function within a

pattern combination = the stitch patterns are secured accordingly

Basting stitch

► No. 21

Darning programs

► No. 22, No. 23

Bartacks

► No. 24, No. 25

Fly stitches

► No. 26, No. 27

Stitch programs in the buttonhole category:

► No. 51-63

Example of a Stitch Pattern Combination

► touch stitch pattern no. 407 once ► touch stitch pattern no. 607 once ► touch stitch pattern no. 446 once ► sew combination, the patterns alternate continuously

Example of a Stitch Pattern and Function Combination

► touch stitch pattern no. 427 once ► touch stitch pattern no. 402 once and activate «left/right

Mirror Image» function

► sew the combination, the patterns alternate, original

and mirrored

Page 66

Alphabets Description

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Lettering

► 10 different alphabets are available

‣ Block ‣ Double Block ‣ Script (Italics) ‣ Quilting Text ‣ Comic Sans ‣ Monograms 30/20/15mm ‣ Kyrillic ‣ Hiragana ‣ Katakana ‣ Kanji

► each of these alphabets can be sewn in two different

sizes and in lower case (except for monograms) (except Kyrillic, Hiragana, Katakana and Kanji)

► all capital letters, numbers, punctuation marks and

special characters can be viewed using the arrow icons

Perfect Stitch Formation

Alphabets

► use the same thread color for upper and lower threads ► use stabilizer on the wrong side of the fabric to reinforce

sewing project

► use additional, water-soluble stabilizer on the right side

of pile or longfibre fabrics (e.g. wool, velvet etc.)

► for lightweight fabrics more simple lettering types are

suitable (programmed with straight stitches) such as double block letters. For heavyweight fabrics letter types with satin stitches can be used (such as monograms)

Page 67

Combining Lettering

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Alphabets

► individual letters and rows of the same letter of the

same alphabet are sewn in Single Mode

► letters for names, addresses, words, etc. are combined

and sewn in Combi Mode

Combinig Letters

► open Combi Mode ► select desired letter ► letter appears in Stitch Altering Area and on bar above

Alphabet menu

► cursor is below the letter

► select next letter by touching required button ► second letter appears in Stitch Altering Area, etc.

Correcting Combinations

Inserting Letters

► a letter is always inserted above the cursor ► cursor must be scrolled up (arrow) to insert an additional

letter at the beginning of lettering

► activate desired place by selecting required letter in

Stitch Altering Area or scroll to it

► select new letter ► letter is inserted above cursor

Deleting Letters

► a letter is always deleted above the cursor ► activate desired place by selecting required letter in

Stitch Altering Area, or scroll to it

► touch «Delete» ► letter is deleted

► saving and deleting combinations see pages 82 – 87

Page 68

Combining Lettering and Functions

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Select Lower Case

Change Size

► touch the «Upper Case/Lower Case» icon ► the lower case «a» is highlighted in black, the lower

case is activated

► touch the «Upper Case/Lower Case» icon again, the

capital «A» is in black

► upper case is activated again

► touch the «Alphabet Size» icon; number 2 is highlighted

blue

► the letter is reduced to approx. 6 mm ► touch «Alphabet Size» again; larger size is activated

again (number 1 is highlighted blue)

Alphabets

More functions are described in the chapter «Combining Decorative Stitches with Functions», pages 62 – 63.

Creating Combinations, see page 82.

Page 69

Monograms

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Monogram Sizes

► the monograms are symbolized with four arrows and the

size in mm in the upper left corner in the Stitch Altering

Area

► the monograms are stitched in sideways motion ► start (green dot) and end (red cross) are visible in the

Stitch Altering Area

► lettering size 1 = 30mm ► at the start of the monogram program size 1 is activated ► monograms in size 1 are individual letters = the sewing

computer sews and stops automatically

Alphabets

Sideways-Motion Stitch Patterns, e.g. Sewing Monograms

► use the slide-on table to increase the

sewing surface

► when sewing Sideways Motion stitches

make sure that the fabric is fed evenly and lightly, ensuring that it cannot push against or catch on anything

► it is important to let the sewing computer

sew, without pulling, pushing or holding back the fabric

► use the presser foot no. 40C

► lettering size 2 = 20mm ► touch «Alphabet Size»; number 2 is highlighted ► monograms in size 2 are continuously sewn in a

horizontal line

► lettering size 3 = 15mm ► touch «Alphabet Size»; number 3 is blue ► monograms in size 3 are continuously sewn in a

horizontal line

Sewing a test sample with the threads, the actual fabric and stabilizer you intend to use is recommended.

Balance

► stitch patterns may differ from the original shape

depending on the fabric, stabilizer and thread quality

► with the Balance function it is possible to adjust the

stitch pattern to suit the fabric used

Page 70

Buttonholes Description

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Buttonholes are practical closures which can also be used for decorative purposes. All buttonholes can be sewn and programmed in different ways.

► touch the «Buttonhole» button ► an overview of the buttonholes and eyelets appears in

the display

► select the desired buttonhole

Standard Buttonhole

For light- to mediumweight fabrics: blouses, dresses, bed linen, etc.

Narrow Buttonhole

For light- to medium weight fabrics: blouses, dresses, children’s and baby clothes, crafts

Stretch Buttonhole

For all highly elastic jersey materials made from cotton, wool, silk and synthetic fibers

Round Buttonhole with Normal Bartack

For medium- to heavy weight fabrics of all types: dresses, jackets, coats, rainwear

Round Buttonhole with Horizontal Bartack

For medium- to heavy weight fabrics of all types: dresses, jackets, coats, rainwear

Straight Stitch Buttonhole

Program for staystitching buttonholes, for pocket openings, reinforcing buttonholes; especially for buttonholes in leather and imitation leather

Button Sew-on Program

Sewing on buttons with 2 and 4 holes

Buttonholes

Eyelet with Small Zig-zag

Opening for cords and narrow ribbons/bands and decorative work

Straight Stitch Eyelet

Opening for cords and narrow ribbons/bands and decorative work

Keyhole Buttonhole with Normal Bartack

For heavy weight, non-stretch fabrics: jackets, coats, leisure wear

Keyhole Buttonhole with Pointed Bartack

For firmer, non-stretch fabrics: jackets, coats, leisure wear

Keyhole Buttonhole with Horizontal Bartack

For firm, non-stretch fabrics: jackets, coats, leisure wear

Heirloom Buttonhole

For light- to medium weight woven fabrics: blouses, dresses, leisure wear, bed linen

Page 71

Combining with Functions

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Manual 5- or 7-Step Buttonhole

► attach foot no. 3C

Buttonholes

► select desired buttonhole type ► touch the «man» icon = manual

Sewing 5-Step Buttonhole

► the length of the beads is determined manually while

sewing

► bartack, eye and securing stitches are pre-programmed ► individual steps can also be selected by pressing the

Quick Reverse button

► step «1» is activated for the beginning of the buttonhole ► at the beginning of sewing, step «2» is activated ► sew first bead ► stop sewing at the desired bead length ► touch «3» ► sewing computer sews the eye or the keyhole ► touch «4» ► sewing computer sews 2nd bead in reverse ► stop sewing at the first stitch ► touch «5» ► sewing computer sews the top bartack and secures

stitches automatically

Sewing 7-Step Buttonhole

► step «1» is activated for the beginning of the buttonhole ► at the beginning of sewing, step «2» is activated ► sew first bead ► stop sewing at the desired bead length ► touch «3» ► sewing computer sews straight stitches in reverse ► stop sewing computer at the 1st stitch of the first bead ► touch «4» ► the sewing computer sews top bartack and stops

automatically

► touch «5» ► sewing computer sews the second bead ► stop sewing ► touch «6» ► the sewing computer sews bottom bartack and stops

automatically

► touch «7» ► sewing computer secures stitches and stops automati-

cally

Leave Program

► touch or «man» ► screen reverts to original Buttonhole screen

Buttonhole Stitch Counter

► select buttonhole ► touch the «Stitch Counter» icon ► when the desired length is achieved

(first bead) press the Quick Reverse button

► after the length of the second bead has

manually been set using the Quick Reverse

button, the display changes to «auto»

► the selected buttonhole is programmed ► for making very large repeatable buttonholes

Buttonhole Slit Width

► select buttonhole ► touch «Buttonhole Slit Width» icon ► set the cutting space width using the stitch

width or stitch length knobs (0.1 - 2mm)

► larger slit width will result in narrower beads

Programming Buttonhole Length

► the icon is automatically highlighted in blue

(= active) when a buttonhole is selected

► buttonhole length can be set with the Quick

Reverse button or the length can be programmed directly by touching the icon

► if the buttonhole is programmed the icon is

inactive, gray

► if a new length is to be programmed, touch the

icon again

Page 72

Balance

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Balance for Direct Entry Length Standard Buttonhole

► balance alterations have the same effect on both beads

Balance for Manual Keyhole or Round Buttonhole

Balance alterations affect the two beads differently: If left bead too dense (picture A):

‣ turn the stitch length knob counterclockwise = left bead will be longer, right bead

gets shorter

If left bead not dense enough (picture B):

‣ turn stitch length knob clockwise = left bead will be shorter, right bead will be longer ‣ the keyhole or eye is balanced as follows:

If keyhole is distorted to the right (picture C):

‣ turn the stitch length knob clockwise

If keyhole is distorted to the left (picture D):

‣ turn the stitch length knob counterclockwise

Balance for Manual Standard Buttonhole

► balance alterations have the same effect on both beads

Balance for Direct Entry Length Keyhole or Round Buttonhole

► balance alterations have the same effect on both beads ► the keyhole or eye is balanced as follows: ► straight stitch until the sewing computer changes to the keyhole or eye, then stop

sewing

► touch the «Balance» icon and adjust the picture in the right portion of the Balance

screen with the stitch length knob to match the sewn buttonhole

C D

If keyhole is distorted to the right (picture C):

‣ turn stitch length knob counterclockwise

If keyhole is distorted to the left (picture D):

‣ turn stitch length knob clockwise ‣ touch and complete buttonhole

Balance for Stitch Counter Buttonhole

► balance alterations have a different effect on both beads (see picture for manual

buttonhole)

► re-program the buttonhole after each alteration in balance

In all Direct Entry length and manual buttonholes each individual buttonhole sequence can be balanced separately. In stitch counter buttonholes the balance affects both beads differently (left and right): when altering the bead the keyhole or eye are automatically altered accordingly.

Buttonholes

Clear Balance

► touch the «Reset» icon in the special Balance screen or

press the «clr» button («clr» also deletes the programmed buttonhole!)

Recommendation

► sew a test buttonhole on a piece of the original fabric

Page 73

Automatic

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Direct Entry Length

Entering Buttonhole Length or Button Measuring

Buttonholes can be sewn to a specific length with the Automatic Buttonhole Foot with Slide No. 3A. Buttonhole length = cutting length in mm

► select type of buttonhole ► touch the «Direct Entry Length» function

Determining Buttonhole Length

► enter the buttonhole length using the multifunction

knobs (stitch width or stitch length knob)

► the length entered appears below the buttonhole ► the number above the button is the exact button size ► confirm the desired length with ; the screen changes

automatically

► «auto» and the programmed length in mm appear on

the screen

Back to Buttonhole Menu

► touch to return to the buttonhole menu; the original

settings remain

Buttonholes

Button Measurement

Determining Button Size

► the sewing computer calculates the length of the

buttonhole directly from the diameter of the button

► 2 mm are automatically entered for the button thickness ► hold the button against the left side of the screen ► using the multifunction knobs, place the vertical black

line flush on the right side of the button

► the button size in mm is visible above the button,

between two arrows (e.g. 14mm)

► remove the button from the screen ► confirm the correct size with the

automatically changes

icon, the screen

Corrections for Thick Buttons

► match buttonhole length to buttonhole thickness (raised

buttons, etc.) e.g. buttonhole length + 1cm (incl. 2mm) if

button height is 1cm

► allow the button to pass through the buttonhole easily

Important in the event of an Error in Manipulation

► touch the «Pattern begin» icon ► the sewing computer sets the program to the start of the

buttonhole again

Deleting Saved Buttonholes

► press the «clr» button or touch «recording» ► «auto» disappears and «recording» appears ► a new buttonhole length can be programmed

Page 74

Programming

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Automatic Buttonhole

Standard and Stretch Buttonhole

► the length of the buttonhole is automatically measured

with the buttonhole foot with slide no. 3A. The sewing computer automatically switches to the next sewing stage after reaching the maximum length

► for buttonholes of 4-31mm, depending on the buttonhole

type

Both beads are sewn in the same direction.

No. 51, 52, 53

Sewing First Bead

► the stitching sequence is displayed in the Stitch Altering

Area

► sew the first bead forwards and stop at the required

length

Buttonholes

Round and keyhole buttonholes

Programming the Buttonhole

► press the Quick Reverse button, continue sewing ► «auto» and the programmed length (in mm) appears in

the display = buttonhole length is programmed

Auto Buttonhole

The sewing computer sews automatically:

► straight stitches in reverse ► first bartack ► 2nd bead forwards ► 2nd bartack ► secures stitches, stops and automatically goes to the

beginning of the buttonhole All additional buttonholes are now automatically sewn in the same length in one step.

No. 54 - 58

Sewing Straight Stitches

► sew straight stitches forwards, stop at required length

Programming the Buttonhole

► programming is done as for the other buttonholes

Auto Buttonhole

The sewing computer sews automatically:

► round or eye part of buttonhole ► first bead in reverse ► straight stitch forwards ► second bead in reverse ► bartack ► secures stitches, stops and automatically goes to the

beginning of the buttonhole

Page 75

Hand-look buttonhole

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Double sewn keyhole buttonholes

► keyhole buttonholes can be sewn twice on

thick fabrics – the first lap is stitched with a longer stitch length than the second

Buttonholes

► do not move the fabric after sewing the first

buttonhole; just tap the foot control once to sew buttonhole again

No. 63

Sewing the first bead

► sew first bead forwards, stop at required length

Programming the Buttonhole

► programming is done as for the other buttonholes

Auto Buttonhole

The sewing computer sews automatically:

► round part of buttonhole ► second bead in reverse ► bartack and securing stitches, stops and automatically

goes to the beginning of the buttonhole

Stitch Counter Buttonhole

► attach foot no. 3C

► the first bead (left) is sewn forwards, the

second bead (right) is sewn in reverse

► the stitch counter buttonhole cannot be

saved in the long term Memory

All Buttonhole Types

Sewing the first bead

► sew first bead forwards, stop at required length

► press the Quick Reverse button on head frame

Bartack, Second Bead in Reverse

► bottom bartack and second bead are sewn in reverse ► stop sewing computer at the first stitch ► press Quick Reverse button on head frame

Bartack, Securing Stitches

► the sewing computer sews the top bartack, secures

stitches and stops automatically

► «auto 1,2,3» appear on the screen ► the buttonhole is saved

Each subsequent buttonhole will be sewn identically.

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In Long-Term Memory

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Long-term saving of buttonhole programs is only possible for buttonholes originally stitched as «auto» length buttonholes.

Saving Buttonhole

► touch the displayed buttonhole in the Stitch Altering

Area

► touch the «Save» function – the buttonhole is saved in

the Long Term Memory

Recalling Saved Buttonhole

► select the desired buttonhole type ► the length of the buttonhole appears in the «Direct Entry

Length» icon

► «auto» and the length in mm appear on the screen

Changing Saved Buttonhole

► select the desired buttonhole type ► touch the «Direct Entry Length» icon ► alter the length of the saved buttonhole; confirm with ► save buttonhole as described above ► the new buttonhole length overrides the existing one

Buttonholes

Button Sew-On Program

Deleting Saved Buttonhole

► select desired buttonhole type ► touch the «Direct Entry Length» icon and program a

new length or touch the buttonhole displayed in the

Stitch Altering Area

► touch «Reset» = the saved buttonhole is deleted ► a new buttonhole length can be programmed

Sewing on a 2-Hole Button

► check the distance between the holes by turning the

handwheel and adjust the stitch width if necessary

► hold the threads when starting to sew ► sew on the button ► the sewing computer automatically stops when program

is completed and is immediately ready for the next

button

If the stitch width is reduced too sharply (gray area), the sewing computer cannot be started. An animation appears.

► attach foot no. 18

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Buttonholes

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Sewing on a 4-Hole Button

► sew the front holes first ► carefully move the button forward ► sew the back holes with the same program

Start and End Threads

► the threads have already been secured and can be

trimmed

For Secure Results

► pull both lower threads until the ends of the upper

threads are visible on the wrong side (knot if required)

► trim threads

Sewing on Buttons

A real time-saver for projects where several buttons of the same type must be sewn on (e.g. blouse, bed linen etc.). For work which is subject to heavy wear or washing, sew buttons on using button sew-on program twice.

Eyelet Program

2- and 4-hole-buttons can be attached. The thread shank (distance between the button and the fabric) can be set as required using foot no 18. Buttons for decorative purposes are just sewn on, without the thread shank.

► select desired eyelet: ► no. 61 = zig-zag eyelet ► no. 62 = straight stitch eyelet

Sewing Eyelets

► position fabric under the presser foot and sew ► the sewing computer stops automatically when finished

and is immediately ready for the next eyelet

Punching Eyelets

► use an awl or punch to cut open the eyelet

Page 78

Quilt Stitches Description

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Various stitch patterns are available which are used especially in quilting, for patchwork or for appliqué:

Quilters securing program

Quilting straight stitch

Piecing stitch/Straight stitch

Stippling stitch

Handlook quilt stitch

Feather Stitch Variations

1333 - 1338

Decorative quilt stitches

1339 - 1345, 1351

Quilt stitch/Handlook quilt stitch variations

1347, 1348, 1350

Blanket stitch (dual)

Double blanket stitch (dual)

Quilt Stitches

Blanket stitch

Double blanket stitch

Blind stitch

Feather stitch

Satin stitch

Page 79

Creating a Customized Stitch Menu

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Use the Personal Program to create a file with stitches you use most for a special project.

The following alterations can be saved:

► Stitch width ► Stitch length ► Needle position ► Thread tension ► Mirror Image

Personal Program

► Pattern extend ► Long stitch ► Balance ► Pattern repeat 1–9x

Personal Screen

► the programmed stitch patterns are shown with pattern

numbers

► when more than 15 stitches are programmed, use arrow

to scroll for viewing additional stitches

► the programmed stitch patterns in this screen can be

altered in the usual way

If the memory has already been filled with embroidery motifs and stitch pattern combinations, no further stitch patterns can be saved in the Personal Program. The content in the memory must first be deleted to ensure there is sufficient free space.

Preparing Stitch Patterns

Programming of first Stitch Pattern

► select in the practical stitch screen, e.g. zigzag stitch ► make alterations ► touch the Stitch Altering Area 1 (light blue)

► the following screen appears ► touch the «Add» icon 2

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► a screen with four files appears

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► select the file where the stitch pattern is to be saved,

e.g. 1

► each file can accommodate 100 stitch patterns in

maximum

Altering Stitch Patterns

► touch the flashing «Save» Icon 3 ► the altered zigzag stitch is saved and the screen closes

► the file can be named by pressing the large gray icon 4

and the name can be typed in using the keyboard

provided

► touch the «Return» icon to return to the file summary

Personal Program

Selecting Stitch Pattern

► alter stitch width and stitch length using the knobs ► the alterations and the basic settings are visible ► touch the Stitch Altering Area (light blue) 1

► touch the «Save Settings» bar 2 ► all alterations are saved; the special screen closes

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Deleting Stitch Patterns

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Selecting Stitch Pattern

► touch the «Personal Program» icon ► the screen appears with the four files ► select the file where the stitch pattern is to be deleted,

e.g. 1

► touch the Stitch Altering Area (light blue) ► touch the «Add» icon (as for programming)

► the content of the file selected is shown ► select the stitch pattern to be deleted ► the stitch pattern is deleted; all the remaining patterns

are moved by one position

► close the screen with

Personal Program

Special Screen

4 5

1 All alterations (stitch lengths, stitch widths, etc.) of the

stitch pattern selected are saved

2 All alterations of the stitch pattern selected are reset

to the original basic setting

3 Add a selected stitch pattern to your Personal

Program (with possible alterations)

4 The sewing computer sews continuously in reverse 5 The stitch pattern is sewn in reverse, retracing the

previously sewn stitches by the stitch

6 Close the screen

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History Description

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► touch the ≪History≫ icon ► the last maximum 15 sewn stitches appear ► a stitch already contained in the History screen will be

overwritten when sewing restarts

History

Page 83

Long Term Memory Description

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The sewing-/embroidery computer has a memory system where both, the sewing and embroidery memories are saved.

In the sewing memory stitch patterns, lettering and numbers can be combined and saved. In the embroidery memory personal embroidery designs can be saved.

In the sewing memory each «Drawer» can store a maximum of 70 stitch patterns as long as there is sufficient free space (capacity) available. If the storage space (but not all drawers) is full, there may be too many embroidery designs in the memory.

The memory is long-term, i.e. contents are kept until they are deleted. A power cut or switching off the sewing-/embroidery computer does not have any effect on the stored contents.

Creating Stitch Combinations

Long Term Memory

Programming and Saving

► select Combi Mode ► the Stitch Altering Area and the respective function

fields appear

► select the desired stitch pattern directly or type in the

number

► make any necessary changes such as stitch length,

stitch width, needle position and add functions such as

mirroring, etc.

► select further stitch patterns

► touch the flashing «File Drawers» icon ► the «Save» icon is activated ► the System Memory Capacity is shown in percent (%) in

a bar in the top right

► select the Drawer where you wish to save the stitch

combination

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Deleting Stitch Patterns

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Deleting patterns in steps

► the stitch pattern above the cursor is deleted ► touch «Delete» as many times as required until the

Stitch Altering Area is empty

Deleting a Combination

► touch the «Multifunction» icon ► touch «Delete» ► confirm with

Opening Empty File Drawers

► touch the «File Drawers» icon ► Drawers screen appears ► touch «Open» in the top row ► select an empty Drawer

Long Term Memory

Page 85

Drawer Content at a Glance

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► touch the «Multifunction» icon ► in the screen the following is displayed:

1 the complete stitch combination 2 the entire length of the stitch combination can be

viewed

3 turning Multifunction knobs 4 Mirror Combination 5 Combination Sub-Divider

6 Connecting stitch 7 Multi-Directional 8 Delete Combination 9 Backstepping 10 display of combination as a single motif 11 Scroll arrow 12

icon

► scroll through the combination with the arrow icons ► each stitch pattern can be directly selected e.g. for

alterations

► select stitch pattern and make the alterations directly in

the Stitch Altering Area

► close the screen with

Long Term Memory

Opening a Saved Stitch Combination

► touch the «File Drawers» icon ► a summary of the saved combinations appears ► scroll to the desired Drawer if necessary ► touch the desired Drawer ► the saved combination appears in the Stitch Altering

Area

Page 86

Correcting a Stitch Combination

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Inserting Stitch Patterns

► select the desired position in the combination ► select a new stitch pattern ► the new stitch pattern will be added after the selected

stitch pattern

► to add a pattern at the beginning of a combination, the

cursor must be positioned above the first pattern

Altering a Stitch Combination

► select desired stitch in the combination ► select desired function e.g. Mirroring

The alterations always affect the Stitch above the cursor that is active or light blue.

Saved stitch combinations can be altered or corrected in the same way. To make corrections and alterations permanent, the combination must be saved again afterwards.

Mirroring Entire Combinations

► touch the «Multifunction» Icon ► the screen changes ► touch the «Mirror image» icon

Long Term Memory

Page 87

Long Term Memory

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Combination Subdivider 1

► a combination can be subdivided into several sections

with the «Subdivider 1» function

► only the section where the cursor is positioned is sewn ► to sew the next section, the cursor must be placed in the

respective section

Combination Subdivider 2

► touch the «Multifunction» icon ► a combination can be split into various sections using

the «Combination Subdivider 2» function

► sew the first section, the sewing-/embroidery computer

stops automatically when it reaches the programmed

function

► reposition the fabric, press the foot control = the next

section is sewn etc.

Connecting Stitches

Move single Stitch Pattern in a Combination

► touch the «Multifunction» icon ► touch «Move» icon ► touch the «Stitch selection» icon until the desired

pattern is activated

► using the stitch width and stitch length knobs, the touch

pen or a finger the individual stitch pattern in a combina-

tion can be moved horizontally, diagonally or vertically

Move multiple stitch pattern of a Combination

► proceed as described in steps 1-3 above ► touch the «Move multiple stitch patterns» icon ► the active and any further stitch patterns are moved with

the stitch width and stitch length knobs, the touch pen or

a finger

Test-sew first on a piece of the fabric you intend to use for the sewing project.

Page 88

Deleting a Stitch Combination

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Overwriting

► program a new stitch combination ► touch the «File Drawers» icon ► select the Drawer which you want to overwrite ► confirm with

Deleting

► touch the «File Drawers» icon ► a summary of the saved combinations appears ► touch the «Delete» icon ► select the Drawers to be deleted ► confirm with ; deleting will be stopped by touching ► touch the icon – File Drawers summary closes

Long Term Memory

Page 89

Impressions

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Page 90

BERNINA Sewing World

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Practical Applications 90

Practical Stitches 90

Straight Stitch no. 1 90 Basting Stitch no. 21 90 Triple Straight Stitch no. 6 91 Securing Stitch no. 5 91

Patchwork, Appliqué, Quilting 92

Optimal Stitch Patterns 93

Edge Finishing 94

Narrow Edgestitching 94 Wide Edgestitching 94 Overcasting 95

Darning 96

Manual - Straight Stitch no. 1 96 Automatic - Simple Darning Program no. 22 97 Reinforced Darning Program no. 23 97 Reinforced Darning Program no. 34 97

Knits Neatening 98

With Double Overlock no. 10 98

Hem 99

Visible 99 Jersey Stitch no. 14 99 Blind 100

Flat Joining Seam 100

Stretch Overlock no. 13 100

Zippers 101

Inserting 101 With Straight Stitch no. 1 101

Decorative Applications 106

Cross Stitches 106

Bobbin-Play Sewing 107

Free Motion Sewing 107 Decorative Stitches 107

Sideways-Motion Stitches 108

Monogram 108 Decorative Stitches with Connection Stitches 109

Tapering 110

Skyline 111

Sewing in Different Directions 112

Sewing Pin Tucks 112

Quilt Techniques 113

Quilt Labels 113 Free Motion Quilting 113

BSR 114

BSR Description 114

Preparation 115

Functions in the BSR mode 116

Needle Stop Down (Default)/Up 116 Raise or Lower the Needle 116 Securing With the Start-Stop-Button (only Mode 1) 116 Securing Function (only Mode 2) 116 Free Motion Quilting (only Mode 2) 116 Free Motion Quilting without BSR activation 116

Buttonhole 102

Important Information 102

Preparation 102

Thread Tension 102 Test Sewing 102 Corrections 102 Manual Buttonholes 102 Automatic Buttonholes 102

Stabilizers and Interfacings 103

Corded Buttonholes 103

Keyhole Buttonholes 103 Automatic Buttonholes 103 Corded Buttonholes With Presser Foot no. 3C 104 Corded Buttonholes With Buttonhole Foot no. 3A 104 Cutting Open the Buttonhole 105 Securing the Cord 105

Beeper (Acoustic Signal) Deactivation/ Activation 117

Activating the BSR Sewing Function: 118 Deactivating the BSR Sewing Function by using the Start - Stop - Button 118 Holding the Work 118 BSR Function Deactivation 118

BERNINA Dual Feed 119

BERNINA Dual Feed Description 119

Fabrics 120 Application 120

Page 91

Practical Stitches

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Straight Stitch no. 1

Straight Stitch

► after turning the sewing computer on, the Practical

Stitch screen with the activated straight stitch appears

► for specialty work, program the seam length using the

stitch counter function, see page 34

Application

► suitable presser foot to be selected according to the

technique, e.g. manual darning

► suitable for all fabrics

Adjust the stitch length to suit the fabric

For example, use a longer stitch length (approximately 3 - 4mm) with denim, a shorter length (2 - 2.5mm) with batiste.

Adjust the stitch length to suit the thread

Practical Applications

For example, use a longer stitch length (approximately 3 - 5mm) when using cordonnet thread for topstitching.

Activate Needle Stop Down

Prevents the fabric from slipping when you stop to adjust or pivot project.

Basting Stitch no. 21

► Reverse pattern foot no. 1C/1D

Basting Stitch

► straight stitch, sews out every fourth stitch, i.e. longest

stitch possible is 24mm when the stitch length is set at

6mm. Recommended stitch length is 3.5 - 6mm

► for all work where a very long stitch is required ► quick and easy basting of seams, hems, quilts, etc. ► easy to remove

Securing/fixing the thread

► sew a few basting stitches at the beginning

and end of a seam

Basting

► use a fine darning thread for basting as it is

easier to remove

Preparation

► pin work horizontally to basting direction to prevent the

layers slipping

► Reverse pattern foot no. 1C/1D

Page 92

Triple Straight Stitch no. 6

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For heavy layers or very densely woven fabrics:

A Jeans needle and Jeans foot no. 8 will help when sewing very heavy fabrics such as denim or canvas.

Open Seam

► durable seam for firm and densely woven fabrics such

as denim and corduroy

► reinforced seam subjected to hard wear ► durable seam for high stress areas such as children‘s

clothing

► Reverse pattern foot no. 1C ► Jeans foot no. 8

Decorative top stitch

Lengthen stitch and use as a decorative top stitch with denim.

Securing Stitch no. 5

Seaming or sewing long seams

► quicker securing at beginning and end of

seam

► even securing by defined stitch count

Practical Applications

Straight Stitch With Securing

► for all fabrics ► secures beginning and end of seam

Beginning the Seam

► the sewing computer secures the seam automatically

(5 stitches forward, 5 stitches reverse)

► the sewing computer continues straight stitching

forwards

Ending the Seam

► when coming to the end of the seam, press and release

the Quick Reverse button on head frame. The sewing

computer will then secure the seam automatically

(5 stitches reverse, 5 stitches forward)

► sewing computer stops automatically when securing is

completed

► Reverse pattern foot no. 1C

Page 93

Patchwork, Appliqué, Quilting

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Accuracy is essential when sewing patches together. The side edges of the Patchwork foot are exactly 1/4“ (6mm) from the center needle position. The center indents on either side of the foot indicate the needle insertion point and the two additional indents are 1/4” (6mm) in front of and behind the needle. When sewing at a foot’s width, the seam allowances will always be the exact width and it is easy to turn the work while maintaining the same width.

► Patchwork foot no. 37/37D (optional acces-

sory)

► Patchwork foot no. 57/57D (optional acces-

sory)

► Reverse pattern foot no. 1C

Practical Applications

Page 94

Optimal Stitch Patterns

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for patchwork no. 37D/57D

► no. 1 Straight stitch (stitch length 1.5 - 2mm) ► no. 1326 Straight stitch

It is not necessary to secure the stitches for these relatively short seam lengths. Attach the slide-on table for precise and easier work.

for appliqué no. 1C/20C

► no. 1354 Satin stitch ► no. 1329, 1330, 1352, 1353 Blanket stitch ► no. 1331 Blind stitch

for quilting no. 1C

► no. 1324 Quilters securing program ► no. 1325 Quilting/straight stitch ► no. 1328, 1347 – 1350 Quilt stitch/hand-look quilt stitch ► no. 1327, 1331 – 1345, 1351 Decorative quilt stitch ► Free Motion quilting with or without BSR

Practical Applications

Page 95

Edge Finishing

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Narrow Edgestitching

Practical Applications

Outer Edges

► place edge of fold against the guide on the Blindstitch

foot

► select needle position at desired distance from the

folded edge

► foot no. 5:

use any left or far right needle position

► foot no. 1C and no. 10/10C/10D:

any needle position is possible

Hem Edges

► place edge of fold against the guide on the Blindstitch

foot (inside upper edge of hem)

► select needle position to the right to sew along the

upper edge

► Reverse pattern foot no. 1C ► Blindstitch foot no. 5 ► Edge stitch foot no. 10/10C/10D (optional

accessory)

Wide Edgestitching

There are three options for wide edge stitching

► guide the folded edge along the edge of the presser foot ► guide the folded edge along the marks on the stitch

plate (for stitching 3/8” to 1” from the edge (1 to 2.5cm)

► insert the adjustable seam guide into the hole on the

back of the presser foot shaft

► adjust as desired ► tighten the screw ► guide the folded edge along the seam guide ► to sew parallel wider lines, guide the seam guide along

a previously sewn line of stitches

Page 96

Overcasting

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With Zig-Zag Stitch no. 2

► guide edge of fabric into the center of the presser foot ► do not select too wide a width or too long a stitch – the

edge should lie flat and not roll

► needle goes into fabric on one side and over the edge

into the air on the other side

► use a fine darning thread for lightweight fabric

Satin Stitch

► dense stitch used for appliqué, embroidery, etc. ► shorten stitch length, satin stitch setting will be indicated

by parallel lines on stitch length bar

► Reverse pattern foot no. 1C

If edges roll:

► use the Vari-overlock stitch and foot

no. 2A

The sewing computer has a programmed satin stitch: no. 1354

Practical Applications

Page 97

Darning

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Manual - Straight Stitch no. 1

Darning Holes or Worn Areas

Preparation

► lower the feed-dog ► attach the Slide-on table ► hoop the fabric into the darning hoop (optional acces-

sory). The darning area stays evenly taut and cannot be

distorted

Sewing

► work from left to right without using pressure ► when changing direction on top and on bottom, move in

curves (avoid points as this prevents holes and thread

breakage)

► work in different lengths so that the thread is better

spread over the fabric

► Darning foot no. 9

Practical Applications

Stitch Over the Hole 1

► sew the first rows to cover the hole (not too close, sewing beyond the worn area) ► work the rows in irregular lengths ► turn work by a quarter turn - 90°

Cover the First Rows 2

► sew over the first rows - not too close for a soft finish ► turn work by a half turn - 180°

Complete Darning 3

► sew loosely and in same direction as 2nd rows

Poor stitch formation

► if the thread is lying on the right side of the

fabric, the hoop is being moved too quickly

► if there are knots on the wrong side of the

fabric, the hoop is being moved too slowly

Thread breaks

If thread breakage is a problem, it could be that the hoop is not being moved smoothly.

Page 98

Automatic - Simple Darning Program no. 22

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If the darning becomes distorted

Correct with the Balance function see page 51.

Reinforced Darning Program no. 23

Replaces threads along the lengthwise grain in all fabrics.

Preparation

► place a piece of lightweight stabilizer under the worn

area before darning if necessary

Sewing

► sew the first row and stop ► press and release the Quick Reverse button at the

desired length; this programs the first length

► continue sewing; the sewing computer stops automati-

cally

► Reverse pattern foot no. 1C ► Automatic buttonhole foot no. 3A

Practical Applications

Replaces threads along the lengthwise and crosswise grains in all fabrics.

If the darning does not cover the whole worn or damaged area

Reposition the work under the foot to continue covering the worn or damaged area. Begin sewing; the program will repeat as often as desired (the length is saved).

Reinforced Darning Program no. 34

Preparation

► place a piece of lightweight stabilizer under the worn

area before darning if necessary

Sewing

► insert the needle in the top left of the worn area ► sew the first vertical row ► press and release the Quick Reverse button at the

desired length; this programs the length needed

► continue sewing; the sewing computer stops automati-

cally when finished

► Automatic buttonhole foot no. 3A

The Darning Program no. 34 is particularly useful for mending heavy weight or durable garments, such as jeans and overalls.

► Reverse pattern foot no. 1C

Page 99

Knits Neatening

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With Double Overlock no. 10

Closed Seam

► overlock seam in loose knits and cross seams in knits

and jerseys

Sewing

► sew the overlock seam along the raw edge

► Reverse pattern foot no. 1C ► Overlock foot no. 2A

Practical Applications

Knits and jersey

► use a new ball point needle to prevent

damaging the loops

Sewing stretch fabrics

► if necessary use a stretch needle

(130/705H-S) = needle point slides between the fibers

Page 100

Hem

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Visible

Jersey Stitch no. 14

Stretch Hem

► for all types of cotton, wool, synthetic and mixed fiber

jerseys

Preparation

► fold hem, pin if necessary

Sewing

► sew hem at preferred depth on the right side of fabric ► trim excess fabric (wrong side)

► Reverse pattern foot no. 1C/1D

Practical Applications

Bernina 830 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual

Sewing

Accessory & Preparation

Functions & Settings

Main Stitch Categories

BERNINA Sewing World