830
Table of contents
Loading...
BERNINA 830
Dear BERNINA 830 customer,
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
Congratulations! With the purchase of the BERNINA
830, you have acquired the ultimate sewing and
embroidery system available in today’s market. By
purchasing this system, you have established that you
are a creative person who is looking for the opportunity
to explore and expand the unlimited world of creativity.
The use of modern, future-oriented technologies in the
computerized sewing and embroidery field coupled with
the tradition of BERNINA quality and reliability offer you
the best of the future and the best of the past. With the
BERNINA 830 system you will be able to sew faster,
smarter, longer, and more creatively- and with more
enjoyment. We have put all the dreams that our
customers have shared with us into this product.
BERNINA wants you to fully enjoy the enormous
possibilities that the BERNINA 830 sewing system
offers you. To do so, you must learn all the wonderful
features of the product. Therefore, don’t hesitate to
frequent your local BERNINA dealer and tap into the
knowledge of the BERNINA educators.
I wish you much happiness and great satisfaction while
enjoying your creative pastime.
H.P. Ueltschi
President
BERNINA International AG
CH-8266 Steckborn
www.bernina.com
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following:
Read all instructions before using this sewing-/embroidery
computer.
When the sewing-/embroidery computer is not in use,
it should be disconnected from the electricity supply
by removing the plug from the outlet.
DANGER!
To reduce the risk of electrical shock:
1 An appliance should never be left unattended
when plugged in.
2 Always unplug this sewing-/embroidery computer
from the electrical outlet immediately after using
and before cleaning.
3 LED Radiation – Do not view directly with optical
instruments. Class 1M LED product.
Safety Instructions
WARNING!
To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury to
persons:
1 Use this sewing-/embroidery computer only for its
intended use as outlined in this manual. Use only
attachments, accessories and parts recommended
by the manufacturer.
2 Do not use the sewing-/embroidery computer as a
toy. Caution is advised when the sewing-/embroidery
computer is used by children, or near children. The
sewing-/embroidery computer is not intended for use
by persons (including children) with reduced
physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of
experience and knowledge, unless they have been
given supervision or instruction concerning use of
the sewing -/embroidery computer by a person
responsible for their safety. To ensure children do
not play with the sewing-/embroidery computer they
must be supervised.
3 Never operate this sewing-/embroidery computer if:
► the cord or plug are damaged
► it is not working properly
► it has been dropped or damaged
► it has fallen into water
Return the sewing-/embroidery computer to your
local authorized BERNINA dealer for examination or
repair.
4 Never operate the sewing-/embroidery computer
with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation
openings of the sewing-/embroidery computer and
foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust
and loose cloth.
5 Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special
care is required around the sewing needle.
6 Never drop or insert any objects into any openings
on the sewing-/embroidery computer.
7 Do not use the sewing-/embroidery computer
outdoors.
8 Do not operate the sewing-/embroidery computer
where aerosol products (sprays) or oxygen are being
used or where oxygen is being administered.
9 Do not pull or push fabric while stitching - this may
cause the needle to break.
10 Do not use bent needles.
11 Always use a proper BERNINA stitch plate. The
wrong plate can cause needle breakage.
12 To disconnect, turn all controls to the OFF («0»)
position, then remove the plug from the outlet. To
unplug, pull the plug not the cord.
13 Turn all controls OFF (to the «0» position) when
making any adjustments in the needle area - such as
changing or threading the needle, presser foot etc.
14 Always unplug the sewing-/embroidery computer
from the electrical outlet when removing covers,
lubricating, or when making other user servicing
adjustments mentioned in this instruction manual.
15 This sewing-/embroidery computer is provided with
double insulation (except USA and Canada). Use
only identical replacement parts. See instructions for
servicing of double-insulated products.
SERVICING DOUBLE
INSULATED PRODUCTS
In a double-insulated product two systems of insulation are
provided instead of grounding. No grounding means is
provided on a doubleinsulated product, nor should a
means for grounding be added to the product. Servicing a
doubleinsulated product requires extreme care and
knowledge of the system and should be done only by qualified service personnel. Replacement parts for a doubleinsulated product must be identical to those parts in the
product. A double-insulated product is marked with the
words «DOUBLE INSULATION» or «DOUBLE INSULATED».
The symbol
may also be marked on the product.
DISCLAIMER
No liability will be assumed for any possible damage which
arises from misuse of this sewing-/embroidery computer.
This sewing-/embroidery computer is intended for
household use only.
SAVE THESE
INSTRUCTIONS!
2
Sewing
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
Accessory & Preparation
Functions & Settings
Main Stitch Categories
BERNINA World
Maintenance/Troubleshooting
Stitch & Motif Overview
Index
Very important!
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
Risk of damage!
Helpful tips!
Text
Gayle Hillert, Herbert Stolz, Joanna Wild
Sewing & Embroidering Projects
Colette Cogley, Jeanne Delpit, Susan Fears, Claudia Giesser,
Gayle Hillert, Nina McVeigh, Pia Welsch, Joanna Wild
Screen Design & Drawings
sculpt.ch, CH-Steckborn
Photographs
Sterling Rice Group, USA
Patrice Heilmann, CH-Winterthur
Manual Design & Concept
Erika Vollenweider-Czibulya
Typesetting, Layout, DTP
Susanne Ribi, Erika Vollenweider-Czibulya
Copyright
2008 BERNINA International AG, CH-Steckborn
All rights reserved
For technical and product improvement reasons, the sewing computer‘s features, parts and accessory are subject to unannounced
changes and alterations at any time. The accessory included can differ from country to country.
Accessory & Preparation
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
Accessory 6
Your Delivery 6
Sewing computer cover 6
Accessory 6
In plastic bag 6
Presser Feet 7
BERNINA Specialty presser feet 7
Accessory Box 8
Free Standing 8
Lay-out 9
Sewing Computer 10
Details 10
Preparation 12
Battery 12
Power Switch/Power Cable 12
Free-Hand-System (FHS)
Presser Foot Lifter 12
Changing the Presser Foot 22
Stitch plates 23
Feed-Dog and Fabric Feed 23
Sewing with the Height Compensation Tool 24
Sewing Corners 24
Thread Tension 25
Upper Thread Tension 25
Lower Thread Tension 25
Altering the Tension 25
Needles 26
Important facts about
Thread and Needles 26
Thread 26
Needle, Thread and Fabric 26
Needle/Thread 26
Guidelines 27
Overview 28
Foot Control 13
LED Sewing Light 13
Pivotable Triple Spool Holder 14
Bobbin 14
Winding the Bobbin 15
Interrupting the winding process 15
Removing/Inserting the Bobbin 16
Threading Lower Thread 16
Slide-on Table 17
Thread Cutter 17
Threading the Upper Thread 18
Double/Triple Needle 19
Thread-Guide-and-Lubricating Unit 20
As a thread-guide eyelet (Fig. 1) 20
As a thread lubricator (Fig. 2) 20
Assembly 20
Radial Thread Guide 21
Various Options of Application 21
Changing the Needle 22
Your Delivery
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
Accessory
Sewing computer cover
► protects from dust and dirt
Accessory
► foot control
► power cable
► warranty card
► FHS presser foot lifter (Free Hand System)
► slide-on table
► seam guide for slide-on table
► Instructional DVD
► sewing computer cover
► accessory box
► thread lubricater
7
6
6
9
10
8
5
2
11
13
14
34
1
16
17
12
15
19
18
20
In plastic bag
1 4 bobbins
2 adjustable guides
3 wire threader for threading cording for bobbin play
4 tweezers
5 2 nets
6 cording attachment
7 magnifying glass adapter
8 small screwdriver, gray
9 touch pen
10 seam ripper
11 lint brush
12 multifunction tool
13 manual threader
14 spool disc small
15 holder for king-size spools, cone holder
16 height compensating tool
17 needle pack 130/705H
18 lubricator
19 monitoring mirror
20 hook cleaning tool
Presser Feet
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
1C Reverse pattern foot 1D Reverse pattern foot 2A Overlock foot
3C Buttonhole foot 4D Zipper foot 5 Blindstitch foot
3A Automatic buttonhole
foot with slide
Accessory
18 Button sew-on foot
20C Open embroidery foot 40C Sideways motion foot 42 BSR foot
BERNINA Specialty presser feet
8 Jeans foot 50 Walking foot
It is recommended that BERNINA specialty
presser feet be used for specific sewing tasks
such as quilting, heirloom sewing, home
decorating, tailoring etc.
All the presser feet are shown in the
enclosed accessory catalog.
They are available at your BERNINA dealer.
7
Accessory Box
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
Free Standing
► on the back of the box, pull both
extensions out until they click into
place
Accessory
8
Lay-out
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
Accessory
The box is equipped as standard with
one small A and one large B drawer
as well as a compartment for bobbin
holders C and presser feet D.
► to remove a bobbin, press the
compartment holder E lightly
D
C
G
E
F
A
B
► buttonhole foot with slide no. 3A
can be stored in the left compartment F
► store the needle range supplied in
the special compartment G
9
Details
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
8
Sewing Computer
10
13
7
6
2
1
5
4
3
20
9
11
12
19
21
15
17
14
16
18
23
24
25
32
31
26
27
28
33
30
22
29
17
16
34
35
36
38 39
37
10
33
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
41
40
1 Bobbin cover
2 Stitch plate
3 Attachment base for special accessories
4 Presser foot
5 Needle clamp
6 Thread guide
7 Screen
8 Carrying handle
9 System Settings
‣ Setup button
‣ Tutorial button
‣ Creative Consultant button
‣ Help button
‣ Eco button
‣ Sewing-/Embroidery mode button
‣ «clr» clear button
10 Stitch width knob
11 Stitch length knob
12 Needle position buttons
13 Bobbin winder
14 Thread cutter for bobbin winder
15 Threading slit
16 Triple spool pin
17 Telescope
18 Bobbin pre-tension
19 Slide-on table socket
20 Darning hoop connection
21 FHS (Free Hand System) connection
22 Slide speed control
23 Automatic needle threader
24 Needle stop up/down button
25 Presser foot up/down button
26 Securing button
27 Pattern end button
28 Automatic thread cutter
29 Start/stop button
30 Quick reverse button
31 Special-accessories port
32 BSR connection
33 BERNINA Dual Feed
34 Handwheel
35 USB connection
36 PC connection
37 Foot control socket
38 Power switch on/off («I», «0»)
39 Power plug socket
40 Connection for Magnifying glass
(optional accessory)
41 Thread cutter on head frame
42 Embroidery module connection
Sewing Computer
42
11
Battery
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
Power Switch/Power Cable
Please remove the protective sticker of the battery
before taking the sewing computer in use.
A Power Switch
The sewing computer is switched on («I») and off («0»)
with the power switch.
Preparation
E
D
A B
C
(USA/Canada only):
The sewing computer has a polarized
plug (one blade wider than the other). To
reduce the risk of electrical shock, this
plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet
only one way. If the plug does not fit fully
in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still
does not fit, contact a qualified electrician
to install the proper outlet. Do not modify
the plug in any way!
Free-Hand-System (FHS) Presser Foot Lifter
I the sewing computer is switched on
0 the sewing computer is switched off
B Power connection
C Foot control connection
D PC connection
E USB stick connection
If the sewing computer is kept in a cold room,
place it in a warm room for 1 hour before use.
12
The FHS is used to raise and lower the Presser Foot.
Attaching the Free Hand System
► insert into the opening; you should be able to operate
the FHS with your knee in your normal sitting position
Raising and Lowering the Presser Foot
► with knee push FHS to the right
► the presser foot is raised and the feed-dog is lowered
simultaneously. Tension is released
► the feed-dog is raised as soon as the first stitch is sewn
Your dealer can adjust the FHS if necessary.
Foot Control
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
A
Sewing Speed
► sewing speed is controlled by pressure on the foot
control
Raise or Lower the Needle
► entire foot rests comfortably on Foot Pedal
► tap the Foot Control with your heel to raise or lower the
needle
Cable tidy
B
► wind the cable around the reel
► insert the cable end (plug) into A
When sewing
► unwind the cable to the desired length and slip into B
or C
C
Preparation
(USA/Canada only):
Use only foot controller type LV1 or WFC1
with sewing computer model 830.
LED Sewing Light
The LED sewing light illuminates the sewing area with no
shadows and has a very long service life.
A defective sewing light must only be
replaced by a technician.
Take the sewing-/embroidery computer
to your BERNINA dealer.
13
Pivotable Triple Spool Holder
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
A
► remove spool-pin cover vertically upwards
► pull out the telescopic rod and ensure that all the parts
snap into place
► swing spool pin to the right until it is engaged. This
ensures a good overall view and access to the spool
pins
► eyelet A is used when winding a bobbin
Preparation
Bobbin
The 830 bobbin, exclusive to BERNINA, supplies till 40%
more lower thread. If the bobbin is not inserted correctly,
an error message is displayed.
You can preselect a bobbin fill of 25%, 50%
or 100%.
Treat the bobbins with care. Keep the
white sensor surfaces free of scratches or
stains to ensure correct functioning of the
lower thread indicator. Store the bobbins
in the respective compartment of the
accessories box.
14
Winding the Bobbin
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
1
4
5
2
3
Preparation
► turn power switch on (to «I»)
► place empty bobbin on Pin, white mark in front
► the bobbin winding screen appears
► the amount of bobbin fill is recognized by the system
and displayed by bar below the selectable bobbin fill
► place thread spool on the front spool pin and thread the
respective guides 1 on the telescope
Winding the Bobbin
► hold thread with both hands, guide the thread in the
thread guide on the swivel plate 2 in the direction of the
arrows and around the bobbin pre-tension 3
► wind the thread one to two times around the empty
bobbin 4 following the direction of the arrows and pull
any excess thread in the direction of the arrows, cut off
on the thread cutter 5
► select the bobbin filling, standard = 100%
► «Start» field = touch bobbin symbol
► adjust the winding speed with the «+» or «-» icon or with
the stitch width knob
► winding process stops as soon as the selected fill
percentage is reached
► remove the bobbin and pull the thread over the thread
cutter
► the screen is closed
Manual Winding Mode
► touch «man»
► the winder will run as long as the «bobbin» icon is
pressed
Preparation
Interrupting the winding process
► the winding process can be interrupted by touching
«Start»-(bobbin) icon, and the screen closed by
touching
► Continuing the winding process
‣ touch «bobbin» icon (it appears in the place of the
clock) = the winding screen opens
‣ touch «Start»-to start winding process
It is possible to wind the bobbin while
embroidering.
We recommend, however, to reduce the
winding speed.
15
Removing/Inserting the Bobbin
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
Removing the Bobbin
► open bobbin cover, the hook system swings to the front
► push the latch in the center of the bobbin to the left, the
bobbin pops out and can be removed
Inserting the Bobbin
► with bobbin markings facing the front, place the bobbin
into the hook and push until it clicks into place
Threading Lower Thread
► pull the thread to the right into slit A, then left under the
spring
► pull thread over thread cutter B and cut
► close the bobbin cover slowly, the hook swings back to
the rear
Preparation
B
A
The bobbin thread does not have to be
brought up as the loose end is just the right
length to start sewing.
Only remove the bobbin if the hook is at
the end position (threading position).
Check the threading path
After threading the hook, hold the mirror under the
swung-out hook unit as shown in the pictures below.
► Position of bobbin thread when threaded for sewing
16
Slide-on Table
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
The slide-on table increases the sewing surface.
Attaching the Table
► raise the needle and presser foot
► from the left, push table to the right over the free-arm
and push firmly so that it engages over the fixing cam
Removing the Table
► raise needle and presser foot
► press the button down and remove to the left
Remove the slide-on table only when
bobbin cover is closed.
Seam Guide
► press the release button and insert into the groove
(underside of table) from left or right
► can be moved over the entire table length
Preparation
Thread Cutter
Scale
► «0» corresponds to the center needle position
on Head Frame
► pull both threads from back to front over the cutter
► threads release automatically as soon as the first stitch
is sewn
at bobbin winder
► after winding bobbin, pull thread in direction of arrow
over thread cutter
17
Threading the Upper Thread
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
Automatic threading
► place thread spool on the rear or center spool pin
► thread the corresponding guide on the telescopic rod,
hold with both hands and guide into the threading
opening of the sewing computer, taking it up to the
thread guide in the needle clamp A and B and pull from
back to front over the thread cutter C
► touch the automatic threader button, a message and an
animation appear
► during threading the start-stop button is illuminated red
► if the thread has not been threaded correctly, an error
message appears
► close the message with and start again
► if the thread has been threaded correctly the start-stop
button is illuminated green
Manual threading
► follow the two first steps as described above
► touch «Manual threading» icon on screen
► press «Automatic threading» button, then thread the
needle by hand
Preparation
► when using unruly threads, slip the net over
the upper thread spool
► large net for large spools, small net for
small spools
► this prevents the upper thread from slipping
and gives an even thread feed
► place the thread(s) under the presser foot
and to the back before starting to sew
Do not start the threaded sewing-/
embroidery computer if there is no fabric
on the stitch plate.
The sewing-/embroidery computer must
be switched ON for threading.
C
18
B
A
Double/Triple Needle
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
Double Needle
A
► touch the «Security Program» icon
► touch the appropriate needle icon (double needle) in the
Security Program screen
► place a thread spool on the center spool pin and one on
the rear spool pin and thread the corresponding guides
on the telescopic rod
► insert the two threads together into the threading slit,
guiding the thread of the rear spool pin behind the
thread-tension disc A while guiding the thread of the
center spool pin in front of the tension disc A. Then
guide the two threads through the thread guide at the
needle clamp
► touch the icon «Manual Threading» on the threading
animation screen. Next touch the illuminated automatic
threading button
► using the manual threader in your accessory kit,
manually thread the left needle and then the right
needle
Triple Needle
► in the Security Program select triple needle
► place a thread spool on each spool pin and thread the
respective guides on the telescopic rod
► thread as usual, guiding the thread from the rear and
center spool pin in the threading slit to the rear of
thread tension disc A and the thread from the front
spool pin in front of the tension disc A
Preparation
A
Changing the thread
► cut the spool thread before the pre-tension and pull out
of the sewing computer to front near the needle
19
Thread-Guide-and-Lubricating Unit
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
As a thread-guide eyelet (Fig. 1)
Use the unit without lubricator for a controlled guiding of the thread into the pretensioner, e.g. when using lively thread
types.
As a thread lubricator (Fig. 2)
Using the lubricator is advisable when using e.g. threads with high function values, metallic threads, loosely twisted
thread types etc. The silicone fluid improves the threads‘ gliding properties considerably and therefore helps to produce
flawless stitching results.
Assembly
► insert the unit into the spool-holder cover fixture and
push down entirely (Fig. 1)
► insert the lubricator into the holder on the left side of the
unit, taking care to place the lubricator in such way that
the openings for the thread are in line with the thread
flow or thread direction (Fig. 2)
► moisten the felt, add a few drops of silicone fluid
1
2
► place the thread spool onto the middle or rear spool pin
as usual. Then guide the thread through the respective
eyelet of the telescopic rod and the eyelet of the
thread-guide-and-lubricating unit
Preparation
3
4
► hold the thread with both hands, pull it in to the slit of the
felt, pulling it down as far as it goes so that it‘ll stay in
the felt during machine operation (Fig. 3)
► continue and complete threading the sewing computer
as normal
► take care that the felt remains moistened. It mustn‘t dry
out. Apply some drops of silicone fluid once in a while to
keep it moist
► during the initial threading of the sewing computer and
when the radial thread release is used it is advisable to
pull an extra inch of thread from the spool before the
threader button is pushed (Fig. 4)
The silicone fluid must ONLY be used
for thread lubrication. Never use it to
lubricate the hook system!
When using the Thread-Guide-and-Lubrification Unit and
depending on the type of thread used it might be necessary to reduce the upper-thread tension slightly to achieve
perfect stitching results,
► to remove the Thread-Guide-and-Lubrification Unit,
push the entire unit up
20
Reattach the Thread-Guide-and-Lubrification Unit. Thread
the sewing computer as usual, including the eyelet of the
unit (Fig. 2).
Various Options of Application
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
► Vertical thread unwinding (with or without lubricator)
from normal spool pin or optional multiple spool holder
(Fig. 1-3)
1
3
2
4
Radial Thread Guide
► Radial thread unwinding (with or without lubricator)
(Fig. 4)
► during the initial threading of the sewing computer and
when the radial thread release is used it is advisable to
pull an extra inch of thread from the spool before the
threader button is pushed (Fig. 5)
Preparation
How to use the thread guide
► it is preferable to replace the standard foam disc with
the foam rotary disc (with white plastic inner part) on
the rear spool pin
The extra thread guide ensures the consistent thread
release, when using threads i.e. metallic, lively or even
wounded thread spools.
► place thread spool on spool pin and guide thread
through thread guide. Then run thread via middle eyelet
of telescopic rod. Continue threading the sewing
computer as normal
► during the initial threading of the sewing computer and
when the radial thread release is used it is advisable to
pull an extra inch of thread from the spool before the
threader button is pushed
5
Any of the two spool pins (see arrow markings) can be
used. However, it is best to use the rear pin due to its more
favourable unwinding angle. Refrain from using the pin of
the winder.
In order to achieve perfect stitching results, it might be
necessary to reduce the upper-thread tension slightly when
using the radial thread unwinding and depending on the
thread used.
It is absolutely essential to use the
correct foam disc under the thread spool.
21
Changing the Needle
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
Preparation
► raise the needle
► lower the presser foot and turn the power switch to «0»
Removing the Needle
► loosen the clamp screw with the gray screwdriver and
pull needle down
Turn the handwheel to lower the needle in
order to get better access to the fastening
screw.
Inserting the Needle
► flat side of needle to the back
► insert the needle with the mulitfunction tool as far as it
will go
► tighten needle clamp screw
Changing the Presser Foot
22
► raise the needle and presser foot
► turn power switch to «0» (off)
Releasing the Presser Foot
► raise the clamping lever
► remove presser foot
Attaching the Presser Foot
► guide the presser foot upwards over the cone
► touch the clamping lever down
Stitch plates
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
9mm
Stitch Plate Markings
► the stitch plates are marked horizontally, vertically and
B
A
diagonaly in mm and inches
► markings help with sewing e.g. precise seaming and top
stitching
► horizontal markings are helpful for sewing corners and
buttonholes etc.
► diagonal markings are helpful for Quilt piecing
► the vertical markings refer to the distance from the
needle to the marking
► needle insertion point is position «0» (= center needle
position)
► measurements are marked to the right and to the left of
center needle position
Removing the Stitch Plate
► raise the presser foot and needle
► turn power switch to «0» (off)
► press the stitch plate down at the right back corner B
until it flips up
► remove stitch plate
Straight Stitch Plate
Feed-Dog and Fabric Feed
Replacing the Stitch Plate
► place the stitch plate over the opening A and press
down until it clicks into place
Changing the Stitch Plate
On attaching the straight-stitch plate or
the 5.5-mm stitch plate, it is imperative to
adjust the settings in Security Program
accordingly (see p. 35).
With each stitch the feed-dog moves forward one step. The
length of this step is determined by the stitch length
selected.
With a very short stitch length the steps are very short. The
fabric moves relatively slowly under the presser foot, even
at full sewing speed, e.g. buttonholes and satin stitch and
decorative stitches are sewn with a very short stitch length.
Preparation
Let the fabric feed fabric
evenly.
Pulling, pushing or holding
back the fabric will result in
uneven stitches.
23
Sewing with the Height Compensation Tool
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
Preparation
The feed-dog works accurately if the presser foot is level.
If the presser foot is at an angle when sewing over a thick
seam, the feed-dog cannot grip. The fabric may jam.
To level the presser foot as required, place one, two or
three height-compensating plates behind the needle under
the presser foot.
To level the front of the foot, place one or more plates
under the right of the presser foot close to the needle.
Sew until the presser foot has passed the thick area and
remove the plates.
Sewing Corners
Due to the width of the stitch plate hole the outer feed-dog
rows are relatively far apart.
When sewing corners the fabric does not feed well, since
only a part of the fabric is on the feed-dog.
Correct this by placing one or more plates close to the
edge of the fabric.
24
Thread Tension
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
Upper Thread Tension
Higher upper thread tension = the upper
thread is tightened, which pulls the lower
thread up to the topside of fabric.
Lower upper thread tension = the upper
thread is loosened, which enables it to be
pulled to the backside of the fabric.
If the thread tension is set to a value below
1 for embroidery, there is a higher risk of
unwanted loop occurrence. A warning
message will appear.
Basic settings are applied automatically when a stitch
pattern or program is selected.
Optimal upper thread tension is set in the factory. For this,
Metrosene threads 100/2 weight (Mettler, Switzerland) are
used in the bobbin and also in the upper thread.
When using decorative thread, tension adjustments may
be neccessary to receive optimal stitching results.
Altering the Tension
► touch the icon and the optimal stitch formation (stitch
formation in the fabric) is displayed
► the red bar on the scale shows the basic value
► turn the stitch width or stitch length knob to the left or
the right = the thread tension is loosened or tightened
► the tension alteration is indicated on the right side of the
thread tension scale
► the tension alteration only affects the stitch selected
► the alteration is shown on the scale (red) and in the
function icon
► the basic setting remains visible (gray) when a change
is made
► the settings are saved by touching
► touch «Reset» to return to basic settings
► touch , settings do not change
► delete: with «clr», «Reset», also when turning off the
sewing computer
Preparation
Lower Thread Tension
► hold bobbin case firmly with your left hand; with your
right hand, turn the hand wheel clockwise until the
setting tool can be slid over the lug at the slider
► basic value:
‣ lug of the slider matches with the marking of the
bobbin carrier, or
‣ lug is shifted 1-2 points to the right, or
‣ lug is shifted 1-2 points to the left
► turn lug to the left with the setting tool = thread tension
becomes looser
► turn lug to the right with the setting tool = thread tension
becomes tighter
► change per point = 4 g
► bring hook into the position shown in the illustration by
turning the handwheel clockwise in order to be able to
thread it properly
25
Important facts about Thread and Needles
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
Thread
The thread is chosen according to its intended use. For a perfect sewing result,
thread and fabric quality play an important role. Use of quality brands is
recommended.
Cotton Thread
► cotton thread has the advantage of being a natural fiber and is therefore
particularly suited for sewing cotton fabrics
► mercerized cotton thread has a slight sheen and is preshrunk
Polyester Thread
► polyester thread has a high tensile strength and is particularly colorfast
► polyester thread is more resiliant than cotton thread and is recommended
where a strong and elastic seam is required
Needle, Thread and Fabric
Care should be taken when matching the needle and thread.
The correct needle size does not just depend on the thread selected but also
on the fabric to be used. The fabric weight and type determines which thread
weight, needle size and needle tip to use.
Needles
Needle/Thread
Checking Needle Condition
The condition of the sewing needle should be
checked and the needle replaced regularly.
A defective needle does not just damage the
fabric but also the sewing computer.
As a guide:
Replace the needle before starting a new
sewing project.
Correct Combination
To sew optimally, the thread should travel smoothly down the long groove on
the front of the needle.
Thread Too Thin or Needle Too Thick
The thread has too much clearance in the groove; there may be skipped
stitches or damage to the thread.
Thread Too Thick or Needle Too Thin
The thread rubs on the edges of the groove and can get jammed. This can
break the thread.
26
Guidelines
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
Fabric/Thread Needle size
Fine fabrics:
Fine thread (darning thread,
embroidery thread) 70–75
Medium weight fabrics:
Normal thread 80–90
Heavy weight fabrics: 100, 110, 120
130/705 H - S / 70
130 Shank length
705 Flat shank
H Needle scarf
S Needle point (here e.g. medium ball point)
Needle
70 Needle size (shank diameter)
27
Overview
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
Needle
Universal
130/705 H/60 –100
Normal point,
slightly rounded
For nearly all natural and synthetic
fabrics (woven and knitted)
Jersey/Stretch
130/705 H-S, H-SES, H-SUK/70–90
Ball point
Jersey, stretch fabrics
Leather
130/705 H-LL, H-LR/90–100
With cutting point
All types of leather, synthetic leather,
plastic, sheeting
Metafil
130/705 H-MET/75-90 or H-SUK/90-100
Large eye
Sewing with metallic threads
Cordonnet (Topstitching)
130/705 H-N/80–100
Small ball point, long eye
Topstitching with thick thread
Wing needle (hemstitch needle)
130/705 HO/100–120
Wide needle (wing)
Hemstitching
Jeans
130/705 H-J/80–110
Very fine sharp point
Heavy weight fabrics such as jeans,
canvas, overalls
Microtex
130/705 H-M/60–90
Especially fine sharp point
Micro fiber fabrics and silk
Quilting
130/705 H-Q/75–90
Fine sharp point
Straight and topstitching
Embroidery
130/705 H-SUK/70–90
Double wing needle
130/705 H-ZWI-HO/100
For special effects with hemstitch
embroidery
Double needle
130/705 H-ZWI/70–100
Needle distance: 1.0/1.6/2.0/
2.5/3.0/4.0/6.0/8.0
Visible hems in stretch fabrics, pin tucks,
decorative sewing
Triple needle
130/705 H-DRI/80
28
Large eye, slight ball point
Embroidery on all natural and synthetic
fabrics
Needle distance: 3.0
For decorative sewing
Functions & Settings
032299.53.04_1204_B830_EN
Overview 30
Function Buttons 30
Display 32
Functions 34
Sewing 34
Setup Program 36
Entry Screen 36
Display 37
Wallpaper 37
Sewing 38
Securing stitches on/off 38
Embroidery 40
Adjusting Embroidery Settings 40
Fabric Thickness 40
Calibrating the Hoop 40
Screen Calibration 41
Monitoring 42
Information 43
Version 44
Service Data 44
Update 44
Cleaning the sewing/embroidery computer 45
Cleaning 45
Cleaning the needle threading mechanism 45
Lubricating the hook 45
Packing position 46
Calibrating buttonhole foot no. 3A 46
Reset/Delete User Data 47
Creative Consultant 49
General 49
Help Program 50
General 50
Stitch Pattern 50
Functions 50
Balance 51
Balance Description 51
Practical and Decorative Stitches 51
Corrections 51
Sideways Motion Stitches 51
BERNINA Dual Feed 52
Balance/Presser Foot Pressure 52
Presser Foot Pressure Settings 52
ECO 53
ECO Description 53
Tutorial 48
Overview of Topics 48
Loading...