Volkswagen GOLF Service Manual

VW Golf & Jetta

Service and Repair Manual

Models covered

VW Golf & Jetta Mk 2 models with petrol engines, including fuel injection, catalytic converter, Formel E, 16-valve and special/limited edition models 1043 cc, 1272 cc, 1595 cc & 1781 cc

Covers mechanical features of Van. Does not cover Convertible, Rallye, Caddy, diesel engine, 4 -wheel drive, Mk 1 models or new Golf range introduced in February 1992

I M Coomber and Christopher Rogers

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 282 7

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset

BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes Publishing

Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

Editions Haynes S.A.

147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

Fyrisborgsgatan 5, 754 50 Uppsala, Sverige

(1081 - 344 - 1AA11)

ABCDE FGHIJ KLMNO PQRST

1 2 3

LIVING WITH YOUR VOLKSWAGEN GOLF OR JETTA

Introduction Page 0•4 Safety First! Page 0•5

Roadside Repairs

Introduction Page 0•6 If your car won’t start Page 0•6 Jump starting Page 0•7 Wheel changing Page 0•8 Identifying leaks Page 0•9 Towing Page 0•9

Weekly Checks

Introduction Page 0•10 Underbonnet check points Page 0•10 Engine oil level Page 0•11 Coolant level Page 0•11 Brake fluid level Page 0•12 Power steering fluid level Page 0•12 Screen/headlamp washer fluid level Page 0•13 Wiper blades Page 0•13 Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•14 Battery Page 0•15 Electrical systems Page 0•15

Lubricants and fluids Page 0•16 Capacities and tyre pressures Page 0•17

MAINTENANCE

Routine Maintenance and Servicing

Servicing specifications Page 1•2 Maintenance schedule:

Vehicles manufactured before August 1985 Page 1•5

Vehicles manufactured after August 1985 Page 1•6 Maintenance - component location Page 1•7 Maintenance procedures Page 1•10

Contents

REPAIRS & OVERHAUL

Engine and Associated Systems

Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre - pre August 1985 Page 2A•1 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre - post August 1985 Page 2B•1 Engine repair procedures - 1.6 and 1.8 litre 8 valve Page 2C•1 Engine repair procedures - 1.8 litre 16 valve Page 2D•1 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Page 3•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models Page 4A•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - K-Jetronic fuel injection - 8 valve engines Page 4B•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - K-Jetronic fuel injection - 16 valve engines Page 4C•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - Mono Jetronic fuel injection Page 4D•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - Digijet fuel injection Page 4E•1 Fuel and exhaust systems - Digifant fuel injection Page 4F•1 Ignition system - contact breaker type Page 5A•1 Ignition system - transistorised type Page 5B•1 Ignition system - fully electronic type Page 5C•1 Starting and charging systems Page 5D•1

Transmission

Clutch Page 6•1 Manual gearbox Page 7A•1 Automatic transmission Page 7B•1 Driveshafts Page 8•1

Brakes and Suspension

Braking system Page 9•1 Suspension and steering Page 10•1

Body Equipment

Bodywork and fittings Page 11•1 Body electrical systems Page 12•1

Wiring Diagrams Page 12•17

REFERENCE

Dimensions and Weights Page REF•1 Conversion Factors Page REF•2 Buying Spare Parts and Vehicle Identification Page REF•3 General Repair Procedures Page REF•4 Jacking and Vehicle Support Page REF•5 Tools and Working Facilities Page REF•6 MOT test checks Page REF•8 Fault Finding Page REF•12 Glossary of Technical Terms Page REF•20

Index Page REF•25

Contents

The Mk. II Volkswagen Golf and Jetta range of models was introduced in March 1984, revised body and trim features being the main visual difference to the earlier range of models.

The engine/transmission is mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle, drive being to the front wheels. Detailed improvements have been made throughout the years of manufacture to improve power output and economy. These include the introduction of hydraulic

bucket tappets, the Digifant, Digijet and Mono-Jetronic fuel injection systems, the 16-valve engine fitted to the GTi variant, the fully electronic ignition system (FEI), the 085 5-speed gearbox and several other minor modifications and revisions.

As with earlier models the new range is proving popular, giving economy, reliability, comfort and, if previous models can be used as a yardstick, long life.

0•4 Introduction

Your Volkswagen Golf and Jetta Manual

The aim of this Manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the Manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.

The Manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence.

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions, to Duckhams Oils, who provided lubrication data and also to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who supplied some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this Manual.

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this Manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from the information given.

The VW Golf & Jetta Team

Haynes manuals are produced by dedicated and enthusiastic people working in close co-operation. The team responsible for the creation of this book included:

Authors Ian Coomber

Cristopher Rogers

Sub-editors Carole Turk

Sophie Yar Editor & Page Make-up Steve Churchill Workshop manager Paul Buckland Photo Scans John Martin

Paul Tanswell

Steve Tanswell

Cover illustration & Line Art Roger Healing

We hope the book will help you to get the maximum enjoyment from your car. By carrying out routine maintenance as described you will ensure your car’s reliability and preserve its resale value.

VW Golf

VW Jetta

Safety first! 0•5

Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Scalding

• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot.

• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing

• When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps.

Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack.

• Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive.

• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.

• Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools).

• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit.

• Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.

• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock

• Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication

• Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut.

• Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice.

• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket.

• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Asbestos

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Special hazards

Hydrofluoric acid

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400

C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed,

the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned.

• When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery.

• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags

• Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body

to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember...

• Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle – especially the electrical system.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

A few tips

DON’T

• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability – get assistance.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

0•6 Roadside repairs

The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won’t start and the starter motor doesn’t turn

M If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the

selector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’.

M Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals

are clean and tight.

M Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the

headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend’s car.

If your car won’t start even though the starter motor turns as normal

M Is there fuel in the tank? M Is there moisture on electrical components under the

bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector and HT leads.

Check that the HT lead connections at the distributor are clean and make sure they are secure by pushing them onto

the cap.

Check that the HT lead connections at the spark plugs are secure by pushing them onto the plugs.

Check that the LT lead connections are clean and secure.

Check the security and condition of the battery connections.

Wiring plugs may cause problems if dirty or not connected properly.

Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water dispersant spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

Roadside repairs 0•7

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

4 Before connecting the booster

battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.

4 Ensure that all electrical equipment

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

4 Make sure that the booster battery is

the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

4 If the battery is being jump-started

from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

4 Make sure that the transmission is in

neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by

leaving the lights on.

The charging system is not working

properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).

The battery itself is at fault

(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started.

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.

Jump starting

0•8 Roadside repairs

The spare wheels and tools are stored in the luggage compartment. Release the retaining strap and lift out the jack and

tools from the centre of the wheel.

Finally...

M Remove the wheel chocks. M Stow the jack and tools in the correct locations in the car.

Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure.

M Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible.

Locate the jack below the reinforced point on the sill and on firm ground. Turn the jack handle to raise the car until the

wheel is clear of the ground.

Unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the wheel. Fit the spare wheel and screw in

the wheel bolts. Lightly tighten them using the wheelbrace, then lower the car to the ground.

Once the car is on the ground, tighten the wheel bolts securely in a diagonal pattern

using the wheelbrace. At the earliest possible opportunity, have the wheel bolts slackened and then tightened to the correct torque wrench setting.

Remove the wheel trim/hub cap from the

wheel (some trims have retaining screws

which must be undone first). Slacken each wheel bolt by half a turn.

Unscrew the retaining nut and lift the wheel out of the vehicle.

1 2 3

4 5 6

Preparation

M When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as

it is safe to do so.

M Park on firm level ground, if possible,

and well out of the way of other traffic.

M Use hazard warning lights if necessary.

M If you have one, use a warning triangle to

alert other drivers of your presence.

M Apply the handbrake and engage first or

reverse gear (or Park on models with automatic transmission.

M Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the

one being removed – a couple of large stones will do for this.

M If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of

wood to spread the load under the jack.

Changing the wheel

Wheel changing

Some of the details shown here will vary according to model. For instance, the location of the spare wheel and jack is not the same on all cars. However, the basic principles apply to all vehicles.

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by another vehicle. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.

Roadside repairs 0•9

When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home – or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: M Use a proper tow-rope – they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window. M Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so

that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work. M Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided. M Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. M Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. M On models with power steering, greaterthan-usual steering effort will also be required.

M The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. M Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. M Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions. M On models with automatic transmission, special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not tow, or transmission damage may result.

Towing

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

Identifying leaks

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking. Some

fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak.

Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil Gearbox oil

Brake fluid Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

0•10 Weekly checks

There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense.

These "Weekly checks" require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example;

M Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life.

Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of

these.

M If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don't work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem.

M If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Introduction

All models

(typical)

Engine oil level

dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant expansion

tank

Brake fluid reservoir

Power steering fluid

reservoir

Screen washer fluid

reservoir

Battery

Underbonnet check points

Weekly checks 0•11

Engine oil level

Before you start

4 Make sure that your car is on level ground. 4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,

or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.

The correct oil

Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used (See “Lubricants, fluids and capacities”).

Car Care

l If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil

(see “Fault Finding”).

l Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3). If the level is too low severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will

remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick!

The dipstick is located at the right-hand end of the engine (see “Underbonnet check points” on page 0•10 for exact

location). Withdraw the dipstick.

Using a clean rag or paper towel remove all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go,

then withdraw it again.

Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, which should be between the

upper ("MAX") mark and lower ("MIN") mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level from the lower mark to the upper mark.

Oil is added through the filler cap. Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a

funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick often. Don’t overfill (see “Car Care” left).

1 2

3 4

Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant

about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

l With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.

l It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top-up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become too diluted.

Coolant level

The coolant level varies with the temperature of the engine. When the

engine is cold, the coolant level should be between the MAX and MIN marks on the side of the expansion tank. When the engine is hot, the level may rise slightly.

If topping up is necessary, wait until the engine is cold. Slowly unscrew the

expansion tank cap, to release any pressure present in the cooling system, and remove it.

Add the recommended mixture of water and antifreeze through the expansion

tank filler neck, until the coolant is up to the MAX level mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far as it will go until it is secure.

2 3

0•12 Weekly checks

Brake fluid level

Warning: l Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it. l Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Safety First!

l If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately.

l If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.

• Make sure that your car is on level ground.

• The fluid level in the

reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down, but the fluid level must never be allowed to drop below the “MIN” mark.

The “MAX” and “MIN” marks are indicated on the front of the reservoir. The fluid level must be kept between the marks at all times.

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe clean the area around the filler cap to prevent dirt entering the hydraulic system.

Unscrew the reservoir cap and carefully lift it out of position, taking care not to

damage the level switch float. Inspect the reservoir, if the fluid is dirty the hydraulic system should be drained and refilled (see Chapter 1).

Carefully add fluid, taking care not to spill it onto the surrounding components. Use

only the specified fluid; mixing different types can cause damage to the system. After topping-up to the correct level, securely refit the cap and wipe off any spilt fluid.

Power steering fluid level

Before you start:

4 Park the vehicle on level ground. 4 Set the steering wheel straight-ahead. 4 The engine should be turned off.

Safety First!

l The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated immediately.

For the check to be accurate, the steering must not be turned once the engine has been stopped.

The fluid reservoir is mounted next to the battery in the engine compartment.

“MAX” and “MIN” level marks are indicated on the side of the reservoir. The fluid level should be maintained between these marks at all times.

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag

before removing the cap. When adding fluid, pour it carefully into the reservoir to avoid spillage. Be sure to use only the specified fluid.

After filling the reservoir to the proper level, make sure that the cap is refitted securely to avoid leaks and the entry of foreign matter into the reservoir.

Weekly checks 0•13

Screenwash additives not only keep the winscreen clean during foul weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold

weather - which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top up using plain water as the screenwash will become too diluted, and will

freeze during cold weather. On no account use

coolant antifreeze in the washer system this could discolour or damage paintwork.

Screen/headlamp washer fluid level

When topping-up the reservoir(s) a screenwash additive should be added in the quantities recommended on the

bottle.

The reservoir for the windscreen and headlamp washer systems is located on the

left-hand side of the engine compartment, forward of the suspension turret. The rear screen washer system reservoir is located on the right-hand side rear corner of the luggage compartment. Later systems have a single reservoir located in the engine compartment.

Check the operation of both screen and headlamp washers. Adjust the nozzles using a pin if necessary, aiming the spray to a point slightly above the centre of the swept area.

a = 345 mm b = 420 mm c = 320 mm d = 300 mm

Wiper blades

Check the condition of the wiper blades; if they are cracked or show any signs of

deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. Wiper blades should be renewed annually.

To remove a windscreen wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from the screen until it

locks. Swivel the blade through 90°, press the locking tab with your fingers and slide the blade out of the arm’s hooked end.

Don’t forget to check the tailgate wiper blade as well. To remove the blade, depress the retaining tab and slide the

blade out of the hooked end of the arm.

0•14 Weekly checks

Tyre condition and pressure

It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by "kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.

New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car, the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.

Tread Depth - visual check

The original tyres have tread wear safety bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

Tread Depth - manual check

Alternatively, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.

Tyre Pressure Check

Check the tyre pressures regularly with the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately after the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result.

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)

Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension parts

Hard cornering

Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation

Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.

Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.

Incorrect camber or castor

Repair or renew suspension parts

Malfunctioning suspension

Repair or renew suspension parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

Weekly checks 0•15

Battery

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read the precautions given in "Safety first" at the start of this manual.

4 Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition, and that the clamp is tight. Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted. 4 Periodically (approximately every three months), check the charge condition of the battery as described in Chapter 5A. 4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jump start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.

The battery is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment. The

exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for damage such as a cracked case or cover.

Check the tightness of battery clamps (A) to ensure good electrical connections.

You should not be able to move them. Also check each cable (B) for cracks and frayed conductors.

Battery corrosion can be kept to a minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly to the clamps and terminals after they are reconnected.

If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is evident, remove the cables from the

battery terminals, clean them with a small wire brush, then refit them. Automotive stores sell a tool for cleaning the battery post . . .

. . . as well as the battery cable clamps

Electrical systems

4 Check all external lights and the horn. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for details if any of the circuits are found to be inoperative.

4 Visually check all accessible wiring connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for security, and for signs of chafing or damage.

If you need to check your brake lights and indicators unaided, back up to a wall or

garage door and operate the lights. The reflected light should show if they are working properly.

If a single indicator light, stop-light or headlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb

has blown and will need to be replaced. Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both stoplights have failed, it is possible that the switch has failed.

If more than one indicator light or tail light has failed it is likely that either a fuse has

blown or that there is a fault in the circuit (see Chapter 12). The fuses are located under the facia panel, on the right-hand side, behind a removable cover.

To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it out and fit a new fuse of the correct rating

(see Chapter 12). If the fuse blows again, it is important that you find out why - a complete checking procedure is given in Chapter 12.

0•16 Lubricants and fluids

Lubricants and fluids

Component or system Lubricant or fluid

Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil to viscosity SAE 15W/50 or 20W/50

Duckhams QXR, QS, Hypergrade Plus or Hypergrade

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethylene-glycol based antifreeze with corrosion inhibitors.

Duckhams Antifreeze & Summer Coolant. Mixture 50% by volume

Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80

Duckhams Hypoid 80 or Hypoid 75W/90S

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron type ATF

Duckhams Uni-Matic

Final drive:

Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80

Duckhams Hypoid 80 or Hypoid 75W/90S

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear oil, viscosity SAE 90EP

Duckhams Hypoid 90S or Hypoid 75W/90S

Brake hydraulic system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic fluid to FMVSS 11 6 DOT 4

Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid

Power steering system:

pre-April 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron type ATF

Duckhams Uni-Matic

post-April 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . VW oil G 002 000

No Duckhams equivalent

Oils perform vital tasks in all engines. The higher the engine’s performance, the greater the demand on lubricants to minimise wear as well as optimise power and economy. Duckhams tailors lubricants to the highest technical standards, meeting and exceeding the demands of all modern engines.

HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS

• Beating friction

Without oil, the surfaces inside your engine which rub together will heat, fuse and quickly cause engine seizure. Oil, and its special additives, forms a molecular barrier between moving parts, to stop wear and minimise heat build-up.

• Cooling hot spots

Oil cools parts that the engine’s water-based coolant cannot reach, bathing the combustion chamber and pistons, where temperatures may exceed 1000°C. The oil assists in

transferring the heat to the engine cooling system. Heat in the oil is also lost by air flow over the sump, and via any auxiliary oil cooler.

• Cleaning the inner engine

Oil washes away combustion by-products (mainly carbon) on pistons and cylinders, transporting them to the oil filter, and holding the smallest particles in suspension until they are flushed out by an oil change. Duckhams oils undergo extensive tests in the laboratory, and on the road.

Engine oil types

Mineral oils are the “traditional” oils, generally suited to older engines and cars not used in harsh conditions. Duckhams Hypergrade Plus and Hypergrade are well suited for use in most popular family cars. Diesel oils such as Duckhams Diesel are specially formulated for Diesel engines, including turbocharged models and 4x4s. Synthetic oils are the state-of-the-art in lubricants, offering ultimate protection, but at a fairly high price. One such is Duckhams QS, for use in ultra-high performance engines. Semi-synthetic oils offer high performance engine protection, but at less cost than full synthetic oils. Duckhams QXR is an ideal choice for hot hatches and hard-driven cars.

For help with technical queries on lubricants, call Duckhams Oils on 0181 290 8207

Choosing your engine oil

Note: It is antisocial and illegal to dump oil down the drain. To find the location of your local oil recycling bank, call this number free.

Capacities and tyre pressures 0•17

Component or system Capacity

Engine:

1.05 & 1.3 litre:

rocker-finger type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.0 litres with filter change

2.5 litres without filter change

hydraulic tappet type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litres with filter change

3.0 litres without filter change

1.6 & 1.8 litre:

pre-August 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litres with filter change

3.0 litres without filter change

post-August 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 litres with filter change

3.5 litres without filter change

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.3 litres

Manual gearbox:

084 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 litres

085 type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.1 litres

020 4-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 litres

020 5-speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litres

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 litres from dry

3.0 litres service drain & fill

Final drive:

Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Included in gearbox capacity

Automatic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.75 litre

Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55.0 litres

Tyre pressures (tyres cold)

Capacities

Front Rear

1.05 & 1.3 litre models:

Half load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2) 1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2)

Full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 bar (26 lbf/in

) 2.4 bar (35 lbf/in2)

1.6 & 1.8 litre models:

Half load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar (29 lbf/in2) 1.8 bar (26 lbf/in2)

Full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar (29 lbf/in

) 2.4 bar (35 lbf/in2)

0•18

Notes

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Air conditioning system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Alternator, power steering pump and air conditioner compressor

drivebelt(s) check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Antifreeze concentration check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Automatic transmission and final drive fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Battery electrolyte level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

Brake pad and rear shoe lining check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Clutch operation check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Contact breaker point renewal and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Contact breaker point check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

CV joint and boot check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Fluid leakage and engine electrical system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Fuel and brake line, hose and union check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Fuel system control linkage check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Gearbox oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Headlight beam alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Hinge and catch lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Ignition timing check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Light, direction indicator and horn check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Lock, hinge and latch mechanism check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Slow running adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Steering gear check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Sunroof guide rails cleaning and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

Valve clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Vehicle underbody check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

1•1

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

Chapter 2 Part B:

Engine repair procedures -

1.05 and 1.3 litre post August 1985

The following information is a revision of, or supplementary to, that contained in Part A of this Chapter

General

Code:

1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HZ

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MH

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . NZ

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2G

Cylinder head

Minimum dimension after machining (skimming) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135.6 mm

Camshaft

Maximum run-out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.01 mm

Maximum radial play . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 mm

Valves

Maximum seat width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 mm

Head diameter:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36.0 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29.0 mm

Valve length:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98.9 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99.1 mm

Hydraulic tappets

Maximum free travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 mm

Valve timing

Nil valve clearance at 1.0 mm valve lift MH/NZ/2G HZ

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12°ATDC 5°ATDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28°ABDC 29°ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25°BBDC 33°BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9°BTDC 9°BTDC

Camshaft - examination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Camshaft - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Camshaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Camshaft oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Cylinder head - dismantling and overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Cylinder head - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Cylinder head - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Engine - adjustments after major overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Hydraulic bucket tappets - checking free travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Oil pump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Oil pump - removal and examination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Timing belt and sprockets - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

2B•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Lubrication system

Pump gear teeth backlash:

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.05 mm

Wear limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 mm

Pump gear teeth axial play (wear limit) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm

Pump chain drive deflection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 to 2.5 mm

Torque wrench settings Nm Ibf ft

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59.0

Timing belt cover:

Upper bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7.3

Lower bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 14.7

Camshaft bearing cap nuts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4.4

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten by further 90°

Number 5 cap screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7.3

Cylinder head bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 29.5

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44.3

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten by further 180°

Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 14.7

Stay bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7.3

Strainer assembly to pump body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7.3

Socket-headed screws in sump (new) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 5.9

Crankshaft sprocket bolt (oiled) - 1986-on:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 66

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten by further 180°

Flywheel bolt (with shoulder) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 74

1 General information

The 1.05 and 1.3 litre engines produced since August 1985 have a redesigned cylinder head which incorporates hydraulic “bucket” type tappets in place of the previously fitted “rocker finger” tappets.

The oil pump has also been changed from the previously fitted crescent type to a gear type which is driven by chain from the crankshaft.

Additionally, different ancillary components are fitted such as the carburettor and distributor.

Unless otherwise given in the following Sections, all servicing procedures are as given in Part A of this Chapter for the pre-August 1985 1.05 and 1.3 litre engines.

2 Cylinder head - removal

The procedure for removing the cylinder head is basically the same as described in Part A of this Chapter but note the following:

a) The valve cover is different, being held in

place by three bolts

(see illustration)

b) There is a plastic oil shield located at the

distributor end of the engine (see

illustration)

c) The fuel and coolant pipes differ,

depending on model

d) Spring type re-usable hose clips may be

fitted. These are removed by pinching the ends together to expand the clip and then sliding it down the hose

e) The clips on the fuel hoses are designed

to be used only once, so obtain new ones or replace them with screw type clips

3 Camshaft oil seal - renewal

1 This is a straightforward task if the camshaft is removed but it is possible to renew the oil seal without removing the camshaft.

2 A VW special tool exists for this job (see illustration) but if it is not available, the old

seal will have to be removed by securing self-tapping screws into it and pulling it out with pliers. Note which way round it is fitted. 3 Whichever method is used, the timing cover and camshaft sprocket will have to be removed. Slacken the coolant pump bolts to release the tension in the timing belt. 4 Lightly oil the new seal and slide onto the camshaft. Use a suitable socket and a bolt in the end of the shaft to press the new seal home. Push it in as far as it will go.

2B•2 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre post August 1985

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

2.1a Valve cover 2.1b Plastic oil shield 3.2 Renewing camshaft oil seal using VW tool 2085

4 Camshaft - removal

1 Unscrew the nuts and bolts from the valve cover and remove the cover together with the gasket and reinforcement strips. 2 Turn the engine until the indentation in the camshaft sprocket appears in the TDC hole in the timing cover and the notch in the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the TDC pointer on the front of the oil pump. Now turn the crankshaft one quarter of a turn anti-clockwise so that none of the pistons are at TDC. 3 Unbolt and remove the timing cover, noting that the dipstick tube and earth lead are fitted to the upper bolts. On some later 1.3 litre models, it is necessary to remove the crankshaft pulley to remove the lower timing belt cover.

4 Loosen the coolant pump retaining bolts, then turn the pump body clockwise to release the tension from the timing belt. Remove the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket. 5 Devise a method to prevent the camshaft turning and remove the sprocket bolt (see illustration). Remove the camshaft sprocket and where applicable, the Woodruff key. 6 The camshaft bearing caps must be refitted in their original locations and the same way round. They are usually numbered but mark them if necessary, to ensure correct refitting. 7 Remove bearing caps Nos 5, 1 and 3, in that order. Now undo the nuts holding 2 and 4 in a diagonal pattern and the camshaft will lift them up as the pressure of the valve springs is exerted. When they are free, lift the caps off. 8 If the caps are stuck, give them a sharp tap with a soft-faced mallet to loosen them. Do not try to lever them off with a screwdriver. 9 Lift out the camshaft complete with the oil seal.

5 Cylinder head - dismantling

and overhaul

Caution: If new tappets are fitted, the engine must not be started after fitting for approximately 30 minutes, or the valves will strike the pistons.

Cylinder head

1 If the valve seats are badly pitted or eroded they can be reworked but this is a specialist

job best left to a VW dealer or engine overhaul specialist. 2 Similarly, if the head is warped, its surfaces can be skimmed, again by specialist engineers. 3 If it is found that there are cracks from the valve seats or valve seat inserts to the spark plug threads, the cylinder head may still be serviceable. Consult your VW dealer for advice.

Hydraulic bucket tappets

4 With the camshaft removed, lift out the tappets one by one, ensuring that they are kept in their correct order and can be returned to their original bores (see illustration). 5 Place them, cam contact surface down, on a clean sheet of paper as they are removed. 6 Inspect the tappets for wear (indicated by ridging on the clean surface), pitting and cracks. 7 Tappets cannot be repaired and if worn, must be renewed. 8 Before fitting the tappets, lubricate all parts liberally with clean engine oil and slip each tappet back into its original bore.

Valves

9 With the camshaft and tappets removed, use a valve spring compressor with a deep reach to compress the valve springs. Remove the two cotters and release the compressor and springs.

10 Lift out the upper spring seat (see illustration). 11 Remove the outer and inner valve springs (see illustrations). 12 Lift out the valve (see illustration). 13 The valves should be inspected as

described in Part A of this Chapter, Section

11. 14 Valves must be renewed if they are worn and be ground in the normal manner. 15 If possible, check the valve spring lengths against new ones. Renew the whole set if any are too short. 16 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Valve stem oil seals

17 The valve stem oil seals should be renewed whenever the valves are removed, by prising them from the ends of the valve guides (see illustration).

Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre post August 1985 2B•3

4.5 Two lengths of metal used to lock camshaft sprocket

5.4 Removing an hydraulic bucket tappet 5.10 Removing valve spring upper seat

5.11a Removing an outer valve spring 5.11b Removing an inner valve spring 5.12 Removing a valve

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

18 With the seals removed, the lower spring seats can also be lifted out for cleaning. Press the new seals onto the ends of the valve guides.

6 Timing belt and sprockets -

removal

As from August 1986, the crankshaft sprocket incorporates a lug for engagement with the groove in the crankshaft, replacing the Woodruff key arrangement described in Part A if this Chapter.

When tightening the crankshaft sprocket bolt, observe the specified stages.

7 Oil pump - removal and

examination

Note: The oil pump can be removed with the engine still in the vehicle

1 Drain the engine oil. 2 Disconnect the exhaust downpipe and the

inboard end of the right-hand driveshaft to permit sump removal.

3 Remove the sump. 4 If it is only desired to check backlash in the

pump gears, this can be done by removing the cover and strainer assembly from the back of the pump (see illustration).

5 Check backlash and axial play against the specified tolerances (see illustrations). 6 If the tolerances are exceeded then the oil pump must be renewed. 7 To remove the pump, first remove the following components:

a) Camshaft drivebelt (timing belt) b) Alternator drivebelt c) Crankshaft pulley d) Lower timing belt cover e) Front cover and TDC setting bracket

8 If they are still in position, remove the bolts holding the rear stay bracket. 9 Remove the two bolts holding the pump to the cylinder block. 10 This will release the tension on the chain and allow the pump to be removed. 11 If sufficient slack in the chain cannot be achieved by this method, then slide the pump, chain and crankshaft drive sprocket forward together.

12 Check the chain and teeth of the drive sprockets and renew any parts which are worn. 13 If a new pump is being fitted, renew all associated parts at the same time.

8 Camshaft - examination

1 Clean the camshaft in solvent, then inspect its journals and cam peaks for pitting, scoring, cracking and wear. 2 The camshaft bearings are machined directly into the cylinder head and the bearing caps. 3 Radial play in the bearings can be measured using the Plastigage method. Compare the results with the specified dimension.

4 If wear is evident, consult your VW dealer. 5 To check camshaft endfloat, refit the

camshaft using only number 3 bearing cap. 6 Set up a dial test indicator or use feeler blades to measure the endfloat (see illustration). If the endfloat is greater than that specified, consult your VW dealer.

2B•4 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre post August 1985

5.17 A valve stem oil seal

7.5a Checking oil pump backlash 7.5b Checking oil pump axial play 8.6 Measuring camshaft endfloat

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

7.4 Oil pump components

1 Oil pump 2 Chain 3 Gasket

4 Cover 5 Oil seal 6 TDC bracket

9 Oil pump - refitting

Refitting is a reversal of removal, but bear in

mind the following points:

a) Use new gaskets on all components. b) Lubricate all new parts liberally with clean

engine oil.

c) If the small plug in the front cover is at all

damaged, renew it.

d) Fit a new crankshaft oil seal to the cover.

The oil seal can be prised out and a new one pressed fully home.

e) The chain is tensioned by moving the

pump housing against its mounting bolts.

f) With light finger pressure exerted on the

chain, deflection should be as specified (see illustration).

g) Whenever the sump is removed with the

engine in situ, the two hexagon screws in the sealing flange at the flywheel end should be replaced by socket-headed screws and spring washers, and tightened to the specified torque setting.

10 Camshaft - refitting

1 Lubricate the bucket tappets, the camshaft journals and the camshaft liberally with clean engine oil. 2 Place the camshaft in position on the cylinder head (see illustration).

3 Fit a new camshaft oil seal (see illustration). 4 Refit the bearing caps, ensuring that they

are the right way and in their correct position (they should be numbered 1 to 5, readable from the exhaust manifold side of the head). 5 Thread on the cap retaining nuts loosely, then tighten the nuts on Nos. 2 and 4 caps in a diagonal sequence to the Stage 1 torque figure specified (see illustration). 6 Tighten the nuts on caps 1, 3 and 5 to the Stage 1 torque. 7 Once all nuts have been tightened to the Stage 1 torque, tighten all nuts a further 90° (Stage 2). Fit and tighten No. 5 cap screws to the correct torque.

8 Refit the Woodruff key into its slot in the camshaft, where applicable. Fit the camshaft sprocket and tighten the bolt to the specified torque (see illustration). 9 If the work is being carried out in the engine compartment, follow the procedure given in Part A of this Chapter, Section 35, paragraphs 9 to 18. 10 Ignore any reference to the oil spray tube and be sure to refit the oil shield at the distributor end of the camshaft before the valve cover is refitted. 11 If the cylinder head is out of the vehicle, it will obviously have to be refitted before the timing belt can be reconnected.

11 Cylinder head - refitting

1 Clean all traces of old gasket from the cylinder block and cylinder head faces, taking great care not to mark the gasket surfaces.

2 Using a new gasket, fit the inlet manifold (see illustrations).

Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre post August 1985 2B•5

10.3 Camshaft oil seal 10.5 Tightening a camshaft bearing cap nut

10.8 Fitting the camshaft sprocket bolt

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

9.1 Checking oil pump drive chain tension

10.2 Refitting the camshaft

3 If they have been removed, refit the oil

pressure switches, using new copper sealing washers (see illustration). 4 Refit the thermostat housing, using a new O-ring (see illustration).

5 Refit the coolant hoses, ensuring that they are connected up in the correct position (see

illustration). 6 Lubricate the fuel pump plunger with clean

engine oil and slip it into its housing in the

cylinder head (see illustration). 7 Refit the fuel pump and fit and tighten the bolts, not forgetting the engine lifting eye (see

illustrations). 8 Slide the distributor into position and ensure that it goes fully home (see illustration). Hand-tighten the retaining bolts. 9 Fit the distributor rotor arm (see illustration). 10 Fit the distributor cap and connect up the earth lead (see illustration). 11 Check the timing marks on the cylinder

head and camshaft sprocket are lined up. 12 Note that none of the pistons should be at TDC when refitting the cylinder head. 13 Position a new cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block (see illustration). 14 Lower the cylinder head gently into position. Special guides are used by the manufacturer both to line up the gasket and

2B•6 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre post August 1985

11.2a Fitting a new inlet manifold gasket 11.2b Fitting inlet manifold complete with carburettor

11.3 Refitting oil pressure switch

11.8 Refitting ignition distributor 11.9 Fitting rotor arm 11.10 Fitting distributor cap and earth lead

11.6 Fitting fuel pump plunger (arrowed) 11.7a Fitting fuel pump

11.4 O-ring (arrowed) in thermostat housing

11.5 Coolant hoses in position

11.7b Location of engine lifting eye

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

guide the cylinder head into position but this can be done using suitable sized rods inserted in two cylinder head bolt holes. 15 Install the cylinder head bolts. Refer to Part A of this Chapter for the tightening sequence but use the torque figures and stages given in the Specifications of this Chapter. 16 It is not necessary to retighten the bolts after a period of service, as is normally the case.

17 Refit the plastic oil shield (see illustration). 18 Using a new rubber sealing gasket

properly located over the dowels, refit the valve cover (see illustration).

19 Fit a new gasket to the exhaust manifold (see illustration). 20 Fit the exhaust manifold, tightening its nuts securely, then fit the hot air shroud (see illustration).

21 Connect up the exhaust downpipe and

any other exhaust brackets loosened during removal. 22 Refit all remaining hoses of the cooling system and fuel system, referring to the relevant Chapter where necessary. 23 Refit all electrical connections disturbed during dismantling (distributor, carburettor, oil pressure and coolant temperature switches, inlet manifold preheater, etc.) (see illustrations). Do not forget the earth lead under the inlet manifold nut.

24 Refit the distributor vacuum hose. 25 With reference to Part A of this Chapter,

Section 37, refit the timing belt and covers.

26 Refit the throttle cable. 27 Refit the spark plugs, air cleaner and

associated pipework and electrical leads. 28 Check oil and coolant levels, replenishing as necessary, then adjust the ignition timing.

12 Hydraulic bucket tappets -

checking free travel

1 Start the engine and run it until the radiator cooling fan has switched on once. 2 Increase engine speed to about 2500 rpm for about two minutes. 3 Irregular noises are normal when starting but should become quiet after a few minutes running. 4 If the valves are still noisy, carry out the following check to identify worn tappets. 5 Stop the engine and remove the valve cover from the cylinder head. 6 Turn the crankshaft clockwise by using a wrench on the crankshaft pulley securing bolt, until the cam of the tappet to be checked is facing upward and is not exerting any pressure on the tappet.

Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre post August 1985 2B•7

11.13 Cylinder head gasket in position 11.17 Plastic oil shield correctly located 11.18 Locating dowel for valve cover gasket (arrowed)

11.23b Coolant temperature

switch/sender electrical connection

11.23c Oil pressure switch electrical connection

11.23d Earth lead under inlet manifold bolt head

11.19 Fitting a new exhaust manifold gasket

11.20 Fitting hot air shroud 11.23a Ignition distributor electrical connection

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

7 Press the tappet down using a wooden or plastic wedge (see illustration). 8 If free travel of the tappet exceeds that specified, the tappet must be renewed.

13 Engine - adjustments after

major overhaul

If the valve tappets have been renewed, it is essential that no attempt to restart the engine is made for a minimum period of 30 minutes after installation. Failure to observe this precaution may result in engine damage caused by the valves contacting the pistons.

2B•8 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre post August 1985

12.7 Checking hydraulic tappet free travel

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

Chapter 2 Part A:

Engine repair procedures -

1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985

General

Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder in-line, water cooled, overhead camshaft

Code:

1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . GN

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HK

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 at camshaft sprocket end)

Displacement:

1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1043 cc

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1272 cc

Bore:

1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.0 mm

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.0 mm

Stroke:

1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59.0 mm

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72.0 mm

Compression ratio:

1.05 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5 to 1

1.3 litre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5 to 1

Compression pressure:

New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 10 bar

Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 bar

Maximum permissible difference between any two cylinders . . . . . . 3.0 bar

Camshaft - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Camshaft - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

Camshaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Crankshaft and bearings - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . 21

Crankshaft and main bearings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Crankshaft and main bearings - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Cylinder block/crankcase - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . 22

Cylinder head - dismantling and overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Cylinder head - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Cylinder head - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

Cylinder head - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Engine dismantling - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Engine reassembly - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Engine - adjustments after major overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

Engine ancillary components - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Engine ancillary components and gearbox - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

Engine - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

Engine - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Engine/gearbox - separation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Examination and renovation - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Flywheel - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Flywheel - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Flywheel - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Major operation only possible after removal of engine from vehicle . . 3

Major operations possible with engine in vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Method of engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Oil filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Oil pump - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Oil pump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Oil pump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Pistons and connecting rods - examination and renovation . . . . . . . 23

Pistons and connecting rods - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Pistons and connecting rods - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Sump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Sump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..15

Timing belt and sprockets - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . 26

Timing belt and sprockets - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

Timing belt and sprockets - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

2A•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Crankshaft

Main journal:

Standard diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54.0 mm

Undersizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53.75, 53.50 and 53.25 mm

Crankpin:

Standard diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 mm

Journal undersizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.75, 41.50 and 41.25 mm

Endfloat:

Maximum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 mm

Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.07 mm

Main bearing maximum running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.17 mm

Connecting rods

Big-end:

Maximum running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.095 mm

Maximum endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.40 mm

Pistons

Clearance in bore:

Maximum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.07 mm

Minimum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.03 mm

Diameter:

Standard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.98 mm

Oversize:

1st oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.23 mm

2nd oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.48 mm

3rd oversize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75.98 mm

Wear limit (10 mm from base/ right angles to pin) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.04 mm

Piston rings

Maximum clearance in groove. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm

End gap:

Compression rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.45 mm

Oil scraper ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.40 mm

Gudgeon pin

Fit in piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Push fit at 60°C

Cylinder head

Maximum allowable face distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 mm

Camshaft

Run-out at centre bearing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.02 mm

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm

Valves

Seat angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45°

Head diameter:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34.0 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.1 mm

Stem diameter:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.97 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.95 mm

Standard overall length:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110.5 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110.5 mm

Valve guides

Maximum valve rock (stem flush with guide):

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3 mm

Valve timing

Nil valve clearance at 1.0 mm valve lift

1.05 litre:

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9° ATDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13° ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15° BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11° BTDC

2A•2 Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

1.3 litre:

Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3° BTDC

Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38° ABDC

Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41° BBDC

Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3° BTDC

Valve clearances

Warm:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 to 0.20 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.25 to 0.30 mm

Cold:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.10 to 0.15 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.20 to 0.25 mm

Lubrication

System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wet sump, pressure feed, full flow filter

Lubricant type/specification/capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to

“Lubricants, fluids and capacities”

Filter type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C101/C160

Pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Eccentric gear driven by crankshaft

Pressure (2000 rpm with oil temperature 80°C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bar minimum

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Engine to gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 41

Exhaust pipe to manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 55

Clutch bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Sump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 48

Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Connecting rod big-end cap nuts (oiled):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

Stage 2* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten further 1/4 turn (90°)

Oil suction pipe to pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Oil relief valve plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Oil pressure sender switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

Timing cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Valve cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59

Crankshaft sprocket/pulley nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59

Coolant pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Distributor flange bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15

Cylinder head bolts (engine cold):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten further 1/2 turn (180°)

Engine mountings (with oiled threads):

Refer to illustrations 40.1a and 40.1b

(a) M8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18

(a) M10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33

(b) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26

(d) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37

(e) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 44

(f) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 52

(g) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 59

* When checking the connecting rod-to-crankshaft journal radial clearance using Plastigage, tighten only to 30Nm (22 lbf ft).

Engine repair procedures - 1.05 and 1.3 litre pre August 1985 2A•3

1081 VW Golf & Jeta

1 General information

The 1.05 and 1.3 litre engines are of four-cylinder, in-line, overhead camshaft type, mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle. The transmission is attached to the left-hand side of the engine.

The crankshaft is of five bearing type and separate thrustwashers are fitted to the central main bearing to control crankshaft endfloat.

The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt which also drives the coolant pump. The toothed belt is tensioned by moving the coolant pump in its eccentric mounting. The valves are operated from the camshaft by rocker fingers which pivot on ball-head studs. The distributor

is driven by the camshaft and is located on the left-hand end of the cylinder head.

The oil pump is of the eccentric gear type

driven from the end of the crankshaft.

The cylinder head is of crossflow design, with the inlet manifold at the rear and the exhaust manifold at the front.

The crankcase ventilation system is of the positive type and consists of an oil separator on the rear (coolant pipe side) of the cylinder

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