Top Flite Gold Edition Giant F4U Corsair Instruction Book

WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does

not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite‘s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves
the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user
accepts all resulting liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in

new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

Top Flite Models, Champaign, Il

Phone: [phone], Ext. 5 [e-mail]

CRSGP05 V1.1

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

© 2010 Hobbico®, Inc.

USA

MADE IN

™

- 2 -

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

ENGINE SELECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

RADIO SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . 3

LANDING GEAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

SCALE COCKPIT INTERIOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

COMPETITION MINDED MODELERS . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

DOCUMENTATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

BUILDING SUPPLIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

TYPES OF WOOD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

METRIC CONVERSIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

INCH-TO-MILLIMETER WOOD CHART . . . . . . . . . . . 5

DIE-CUT PATTERNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

GET READY TO BUILD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

BUILD THE STABILIZER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

BUILD THE FIN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

BUILD THE ELEVATORS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

BUILD THE RUDDER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

BUILD THE WING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

BUILD THE WING CENTER SECTION. . . . . . . . 14

BUILD THE WING TIP PANELS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

JOIN THE WING PANELS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

SHEET THE WING PANELS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

SHEET THE BOTTOM CENTER SECTION . . . . 21

BUILD THE FUSELAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

BUILD THE UPPER FUSE SIDES . . . . . . . . . . . 22

SHEET THE FUSE TOP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

BUILD THE FUSE BOTTOM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

INSTALL THE FIREWALL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

SHEET THE BOTTOM OF THE FUSE . . . . . . . . 33

MOUNT THE WING ON THE FUSE . . . . . . . . . . 34

FINISH THE WING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

INSTALL THE OIL COOLERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

RETRACT INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

BUILD THE AILERONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

BUILD THE OUTBOARD FLAPS . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

BUILD THE INBOARD FLAPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

BUILD THE MIDDLE FLAPS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

INSTALL THE FLAP CONTROLS . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

FINISH THE FUSELAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

MOUNT THE STABILIZER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

FINISH THE FUSE AFT END . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

FIT THE RETRACTABLE TAILGEAR. . . . . . . . . . 47

INSTALL THE ENGINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

ASSEMBLE THE COWL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

FINISHING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

BALANCE THE MODEL LATERALLY . . . . . . . . . 50

SURFACE PREPARATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

COVERING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

PAINTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

APPLY DECALS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

FINAL HOOKUPS AND CHECKS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

INSTALL THE HINGES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

INSTALL THE HARDWARE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

INSTALL THE RETRACTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

ATTACH THE CANOPY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

COOLING NOTES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

NON-FUNCTIONAL LANDING GEAR DOORS . 53

SET THE CONTROL THROWS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

BALANCE YOUR MODEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

PREFLIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

CHARGE THE BATTERIES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

BALANCE THE PROPELLER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

GROUND CHECK THE MODEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

RANGE CHECK YOUR RADIO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS. . . . . . . . . . . 55

AMA SAFETY CODE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55

IMAA SAFETY CODE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55

FLYING. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56

FUEL MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS. . . . . . . . . . . . 56

TAKE OFF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56

FLIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57

LANDING. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57

3-VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Back Cover

PROTECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF & OTHERS

FOLLOW THIS IMPORTANT

SAFETY PRECAUTION

Your Giant F4U Corsair is not a toy, but a sophisticated
working model that functions very much like a full scale
airplane. Because of its realistic performance and size, if
you do not assemble and operate your Corsair correctly,
you could possibly injure yourself or spectators and
damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience totally

enjoyable, get assistance with assembly and your first
flights from an experienced, knowledgeable modeler.

You’ll learn faster and avoid risking your model before
you’re truly ready to solo. Your local hobby shop has
information about flying clubs in your area whose
membership includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the Academy of Model Aeronautics
(AMA), which has more than 2,500 chartered clubs across
the country. We recommend you join the AMA which will
insure you at AMA club sites and events. AMA
Membership is required at chartered club fields where
qualified flight instructors are available.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone number
below.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

[phone]

Fax [phone]

or via the Internet at: modelaircraft.org

Your Top Flite Gold Edition Giant F4U Corsair is intended
for scale and general sport flying including mild
aerobatics such as loops, stall turns, rolls, etc. Its
structure is designed to withstand such stresses. If you
intend to use your Corsair for more abusive types of flying
such as racing or aggressive aerobatics it is your
responsibility to reinforce areas of the model that will be
subjected to the resulting unusually high stresses.

- 3 -

INTRODUCTION

Thank you for purchasing the Top Flite Gold Edition
Giant F4U Corsair. Since this is a scale model with lots of

detail, you’ll find it takes a little longer to complete than
the sport models you’ve built before. But since this is a
Top Flite Gold Edition kit, it is as easy to build as most
sport models. The Top Flite Giant Corsair uses the same
materials and standard construction techniques you’ve
already become accustomed to. You won’t have to learn
anything new to end up with a first class scale model!
Most of the trim schemes you’ll find of the full size Corsair
should be easy to duplicate with Top Flite MonoKote

®

film.
The Top Flite Giant Corsair is an excellent Sportsman
Scale subject. Its large size and accurate scale outline
afford you the opportunity to go all out with as many extra
details as you like.

The Top Flite Corsair is an excellent sport scale model
that is equally “at home” with sport flying as it is in
competition. Because of its 86.5" wingspan, the Top Flite
Corsair is eligible for IMAA events. The IMAA
(International Miniature Aircraft Association) is an
organization that promotes non-competitive flying of giant
scale models. For more information contact:

IMAA

205 S. Hilldale Road

Salina, KS 67401

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a

top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the
quality and flyability of your finished model depends on
how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to
the performance or safety of your completed model.

Please inspect all parts carefully before you start to
build! If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or
if you have any questions about building or flying this
model, please call us at [phone] or e-mail us at
[e-mail] and we’ll be glad
to help. If you are calling for replacement parts,
please look up the part numbers and the kit
identification number (stamped on the end of the
carton) and have them ready when you call.

PRECAUTIONS

1. You must build the plane according to the plan and
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing
so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few
cases the plan and instructions may differ slightly
from the photos. In those instances you should
assume the plan and written instructions are correct.

2. You must take time to build straight, true
and strong.

3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first class
condition, the correct sized engine and correct
components (fuel tanks, wheels, etc.) throughout your
building process.

4. You must properly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates properly on the ground and in
the air.

5. You must test the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and you
must make certain that the model has remained
structurally sound.

6. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot, you
must fly the model only with the help of a competent,
experienced R/C pilot.

Remember: Take your time and follow instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

ENGINE SELECTION

Recommended engine size:

60cc displacement Glow Engine

41 - 70cc displacement Gasoline Engine

We strongly recommend the use of a soft engine mount
of some type, to relieve the stresses on the airframe
and radio system and to make your aircraft quieter.
Great Planes, J-Tec, Soundmaster and others produce
soft mounts for large engines.

Note: If you are using a gasoline engine, you will need
to make sure that your fuel lines and tank are made
specifically to handle gasoline.

RADIO SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS

The Top Flite Giant Corsair requires a minimum of 10
standard size servos. Due to the large scale of this
aircraft the Giant Corsair requires high torque servos to
control the split elevator (2 required), rudder [1
required), aileron (2 required) and flaps (2 required).
Standard servos may be used for the throttle, retract
valve and tail wheel steering.

On our prototypes we used Y-connectors to connect the
elevator servos, flap servos, rudder/tail wheel steering
and aileron servos.

LANDING GEAR

The Top Flite Giant Corsair is designed for Robart
main retracts #148 (ROBQ1655) and Robart tail wheel
retracts #160WC (ROBQ2230).

SCALE COCKPIT INTERIOR

Your Corsair just wouldn’t be complete without the Top
Flite Giant Corsair Cockpit Kit (TOPQ8407). It includes
the floor, side panels, full laser cut instrument panel and
seat. The Cockpit Kit easily installs after the fuselage is
completed. The servos and pushrods are located so the
cockpit can be installed without any modification.

COMPETITION-MINDED MODELERS

If you plan to enter your Giant Corsair in scale competition
(it’s lots of fun and the runways are often paved), this kit
qualifies for Fun Scale and the Sportsman and Expert
classes in Sport Scale. Fun Scale and Sport Scale have
the same flight requirements where you must perform ten
maneuvers of which five are mandatory. If you have never
competed in a scale contest, you could start out in Fun
Scale. In Fun Scale, the only documentation you need for
static judging is any proof that a full size aircraft of this
type, in the paint/markings scheme on your model, did
exist. A single photo, kit box cover, even a painting is
sufficient proof! If you’re interested, contact the AMA for a
rule book which will tell you everything you need to know.
Look in the back of the AMA magazine Model Aviation
for a schedule of events.

- 4 -

The trim scheme of the Corsair on your kit box was
inspired by the full scale “Bayou Baby”. The decal set
included with the kit will allow you to quickly and easily
duplicate the markings. If you prefer a different trim
scheme Scale Model Research offers many
documentation packages as a guide.

DOCUMENTATION

Three view drawings and photo packs of full size F4U
Corsairs are available from:

Scale Model Research

3114 Yukon Ave, Costa Mesa, CA 92626

[phone]

Fax: [phone]

Other sources of scale documentation include Squadron
Signal Publication’s book number 1145 F4U in Action and
numbers 8255 and 8256 F4U Corsair.

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED

These are additional items you will need to complete your F4U
Corsair that are not included with your kit. Order numbers are
in parentheses (GPMQ4161). Our exclusive brand is listed
where possible: TOP is the Top Flite brand, GPM is the Great
Planes® brand and HCA is the Hobbico® brand.

❏ 6 to 7-channel radio with 10 servos (3 standard and

7 high torque)

❏ (2) 24" Servo Extensions for ailerons (HCAM2721)
❏ (4) “Y” Harness for elevator, rudder/tail wheel steering,

ailerons and flaps (HCAM2751)

❏ 4-1/2" Main Wheels (DUBQ0846)
❏ 1-3/4" Tail Wheel (DUBQ0954)
❏ 16 to 24 oz. Fuel Tank (Gas or Glow)
❏ 36" Gas or Glow Fuel Tubing depending on type of

fuel used

❏ 1/2" R/C Foam Rubber Padding (HCAQ1050)
❏ 1/4 to 1/5 Scale Pilot Figure
❏ (29) Heavy-Duty Hinge Points (ROBQ2510)
❏ Pull–Pull Cable System for steerable tailwheel

(DUBQ1418)

Throttle Linkage:

❏ Screw-Lock Pushrod Connector (GPMQ3870)
❏ Ball Link (GPMQ3840)

❏ Accu-Glide

™

Nylon Pushrod (GPMQ3710)

❏ 2-56 x 12" Threaded Pushrod (GPMQ3750)
❏ Easy Fueler™ fuel fill valve for gas (GPMQ4161) or

glow (GPMQ4160)

❏ Switch and Charge Jack (GPMM1000)
❏ Fuelproof Paint (Top Flite® LustreKote® paint)

❏ Main Retracts (ROBQ1655)

❏ Tailwheel Retract (ROBQ2230)
❏ Air Control Kit with Giant air tank (ROBQ2305)
❏ (12) #6 x 1/2" Sheet metal screws for retract mounting
❏ Engine Mount (GPMG2000) (Isolation mount is

recommended for gas engine installation)

❏ Propellers (see the engine instructions)
❏ 4-5 rolls Top Flite Super MonoKote Covering

Optional:

❏ Replica Radial Engine (TOPQ7903)
❏ Cockpit Kit (TOPQ8407)

BUILDING SUPPLIES

The following is a list of building supplies that are required.
We recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy glue.

❏ 4 oz. Thin CA (GPMR6003)
❏ 4 oz. Medium CA+ (GPMR6009)
❏ 2 oz. Thick CA- (GPMR6015)
❏ CA Accelerator (GPMR6035)
❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ 6-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ 30-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ 4 oz. Pro Wood Glue (TITR2010)
❏ Canopy Glue (PAAR3300)
❏ Milled Fiberglass (GPMR6165)
❏ Lightweight Hobby Filler (Balsa Color, HCAR3401)
❏ Auto Body Filler (Bondo® or similar)
❏ Isopropyl Alcohol
❏ 3M #75 Spray Adhesive (MMMR1900)
❏ Bright Colored Chalk (for fitting sheeting)

Tools

❏ Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
❏ Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
❏ Hobby Saw
❏ Hobby Knife (RMXR6907)
❏ #11 Blades (RMXR6930)
❏ Razor Plane (MASR1510)
❏ Pliers (Common and Needle Nose)
❏ Screwdrivers (Phillips and Flat tip)

❏ T-pins (HCAR5150)

❏ Clothes Pins or Hobby Clamps
❏ 60" Retractable Tape Measure (HCAR0478)
❏ Straightedge with Scale (HCAR0475)
❏ Masking Tape (GPMR1010)
❏ Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)*

❏ Easy-Touch

™

Bar Sander (or similar)

❏ Plan Protector (GPMR6167)
❏ Tack Cloth (TESR1654)
❏ 1/4-20 Tap (GPMR8105) and Tap Wrench

(GPMR8120)

❏ Builders Triangle Set (HCAR0480)
❏ .050 Long Handle Ball Driver (GPMR8000)
❏ Hand or Electric Drill
❏ Drill Bits:

1/16" 1/8" 3/8"
5/64" 9/64" 13/64"
3/32" 5/32" 1/4"
7/64" 3/16" 5/16"

Optional Supplies and Tools

❏ CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
❏ Epoxy Brushes (GPMR8060)
❏ Epoxy Mixing Sticks (GPMR8055)
❏ Hot Sock™ (TOPR2175)
❏ Single Edge Razor Blades (HCAR0312)
❏ Curved Tip Canopy Scissors (HCAR0667)
❏ Pin Vise with drill bits (HCAR0696)
❏ Dremel® #178 High Speed Cutter (to countersink

holes for flat head screws)

❏ Dremel Drum Sander

EASY-TOUCH™ BAR SANDER

*A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a necessity

for building a well finished model. Great Planes makes a
complete range of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders (patented)

- 5 -

and replaceable Easy-Touch Adhesive-backed
Sandpaper. While building the Giant F4U Corsair we
used two 5-1/2" Bar Sanders and two 11" Bar Sanders
equipped with 80-grit and 150-grit Adhesive-backed
Sandpaper. Here’s the complete list of Easy-Touch Bar
Sanders and Adhesive Backed Sandpaper.

5-1/2" Bar Sander (GPMR6169)
11" Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172)
33" Bar Sander (GPMR6174)
44" Bar Sander (GPMR6176)
11" Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190)

12' rolls of Adhesive-backed sandpaper:

80-grit (GPMR6180)
150-grit (GPMR6183)
180-grit (GPMR6184)
220-grit (GPMR6185)

Assortment pack of 5-1/2" strips (GPMR6189)

We also use 320-grit (MMMR1204) and 400-grit
(MMMR1202) wet-or-dry sandpaper for finish sanding.

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

•

There are two types of screws used in this kit.

Sheet metal screws are designated by a number

and a length.

For example #6 x 3/4" [19.1mm]

Machine screws are designated by a number,

threads per inch and a length.

For example 4-40 x 3/4" [19.1mm]

• When you see the term test fit in the instructions, it

means that you should first position the part on the
assembly without using any glue, then slightly modify
or custom fit the part as necessary for the best fit.

• Whenever the term glue is used you should rely upon

your experience to decide what type of glue to use.
When a specific type of adhesive works best for that
step we will tell you what type of glue to use.

• Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use either

30-minute epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When 30-minute
epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that you
use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.

• Occasionally we refer to the top or bottom of the model

or up or down. To avoid confusion, the top or bottom of
the model is as it would be when the airplane is right
side up and will be referred to as the top even if the
model is upside down during that step, i.e. the top main
spar is always the top main spar even if the wing is
upside down when you are working on it. Similarly,
move the former up means move the former toward the
top of the fuselage even if the fuselage is upside down
when you are working on it.

• When you get to each step, read that step completely

through to the end before you begin. Frequently there
is important information or a note at the end of the step
that you need to know before you start.

• Photos and sketches are placed ahead of the step

they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in

following steps to get another view of the same parts.

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

Deg = degrees Elev = elevator
Fuse = fuselage “ = inches
LE = leading edge Ply = plywood
Stab = stabilizer TE = trailing edge
LG = landing gear mm = millimeters

TYPES OF WOOD

METRIC CONVERSION

1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor)

1/64" = .4mm
1/32" = .8mm
1/16" = 1.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm
1/8" = 3.2mm
5/32" = 4mm
3/16" = 4.8mm
1/4" = 6.4mm
3/8" = 9.5mm
1/2" = 12.7mm
5/8" = 15.9mm
3/4" = 19mm

1" = 25.4mm
2" = 50.8mm
3" = 76.2mm
6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm
15" = 381mm
18" = 457.2mm
21" = 533.4mm
24" = 609.6mm
30" = 762mm
36" = 914.4mm

INCH-TO-MILLIMETER WOOD

Sheet Size Sheet Size
in inches in millimeters

1/64" x 2" x 24" = .4mm x 50.8mm x 609.6mm
3/32" x 3" x 18" = 2.4mm x 76.2mm x 457.2mm
3/32" x 3" x 24" = 2.4mm x 76.2mm x 609.6mm
3/32" x 3" x 30" = 2.4mm x 76.2mm x 762.0mm
3/32" x 3" x 36" = 2.4mm x 76.2mm x 914.4mm
1/8" x 3" x 24" = 3.2mm x 76.2mm x 609.6mm
1/8" x 3" x 30" = 3.2mm x 76.2mm x 762.0mm
1/8" x 3" x 36" = 3.2mm x 76.2mm x 914.4mm
1/4" x 1" x 24" = 6.4mm x 25.4mm x 609.6mm

Stick Size Stick Size

in inches in millimeters

1/8" x 1/4" x 36" = 3.2mm x 6.4mm x 914.4mm
1/8" x 9/32" x 30" = 3.2mm x 7.1mm x 762.0mm
1/8" x 1/2" x 30" = 3.2mm x 12.7mm x 762.0mm
1/8" x 1" x 30" = 3.2mm x 25.4mm x 762.0mm
1/4" x 3/8" x 18" = 6.4mm x 9.5mm x 457.2mm
1/4" x 1/4" x 30" = 6.4mm x 6.4mm x 762.0mm
1/4" x 1/4" x 36" = 6.4mm x 6.4mm x 914.4mm
3/8" x 1/2" x 30" = 9.5mm x 12.7mm x 762.0mm
3/8" x 3/4" x 8" = 9.5mm x 19.0mm x 203.2mm
3/8" x 1-1/4" x 4" = 9.5mm x 31.8mm x 101.6mm
1/2" x 1/2" x 30" = 12.7mm x 12.7mm x 762.0mm
1/2" x 7/8" x 24" = 12.7mm x 22.2mm x 609.6mm

(Continued on page 8)

- 6 -

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

- 7 -

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

- 8 -

(Continued from page 5.)

1/2" x 15/16" x 18" = 12.7mm x 23.8mm x 457.2mm
1/2" x 1" x 3" = 12.7mm x 25.4mm x 76.2mm
1/2" x 1-1/4" x 30" = 12.7mm x 31.8mm x 762.0mm
5/8" x 3/4" x 6" = 15.9mm x 19.0mm x 152.4mm
11/16" x 11/16" x 18" = 17.5mm x 17.5mm x 457.2mm

Block Size Block Size

in inches in millimeters

5/16" x 3/4" x 7/8" = 7.9mm x 19.0mm x 22.2mm
3/8" x 2" x 6" = 9.5mm x 50.8mm x 152.4mm
1/2" x 3" x 12" = 12.7mm x 76.2mm x 304.8mm
9/16" x 2" x 12" = 14.3mm x 50.8mm x 304.8mm
9/16" x 2-1/2" x 24" = 14.3mm x 63.5mm x 609.6mm
3/4" x 3/4" x 1" = 19.0mm x 19.0mm x 25.4mm
7/8" x 1-1/4" x 9-1/2" = 22.2mm x 31.8mm x 241.3mm
1-1/4" x 1-1/2" x 8" = 31.8mm x 38.1mm x 200.0mm
1-1/4" x 2" x 2-3/4" = 31.8mm x 50.8mm x 69.9mm

GET READY TO BUILD

1. Unroll the plan sheets. Re-roll the plans inside out to
make them lie flat. Wax paper or Great Planes Plan
Protector placed over the plan will prevent glue from
sticking to the plan.

2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, determine
the name of each part by comparing it with the plans and
the parts list included with this kit. Using a pencil or
ballpoint pen, lightly write the part name or size on each
piece to avoid confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns
shown on pages 6 & 7 to identify the die-cut parts and
mark them before removing them from the sheet. Save all
leftovers. If any of the die-cut parts are difficult to remove,
do not force them! Instead, cut around the parts. Use your
Easy-Touch Bar Sander or sanding block to lightly sand
the edges to remove any die-cutting irregularities.

3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them into
groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, stab
(stabilizer) and hardware. Zipper-top food storage bags
are handy to store parts in as you sort, identify and
separate them into subassemblies.

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES

BUILD THE STABILIZER

❏ 1. Make a top and a bottom stabilizer skin using your
own method or the Hot Tip that follows to glue four 3/32" x
3" x 36" balsa sheets together to make two 6" x 36" sheets.

Top Flite selects balsa that is intended for sheeting,
though occasionally a few of these sheets may have a
small nick or split near the ends. If your kit contains a
few of these sheets, arrange them and glue them
together so the defects will not interfere with the final
shape of the skin.

HOW TO MAKE THE STAB SKINS

❏ A. Use a straightedge and a sharp #11 blade to true
one edge of both sheets. Do not cut all the way through
the first time but make several passes with your knife to
prevent the wood from splitting.

❏ B. Tightly tape the trued edges of the sheets together
with masking tape.

❏ C. Place a sheet of Plan Protector or wax paper on
your workbench. Turn the taped-together sheets over and
apply aliphatic resin (wood workers glue) to the seams.

❏ D. Use a credit card or something similar to
simultaneously press the sheets flat as you squeegee
the excess glue from the seam. Wipe the glue off your
squeegee so it’s ready for the next time. Immediately
proceed to the next step.

- 9 -

❏ E. Inspect the seam and press the sheets together
where they do not align.

❏ F. Place weights on top of the sheets to hold them
down. We prefer plastic bags filled with lead shot, but
anything similar will do the job.

❏ G. After the glue dries, remove the weights and
masking tape. Sand the sheet flat with your bar sander
and 150-grit sandpaper. The idea is to sand the
sheeting before you glue it to the structure. This
eliminates low spots that can occur over the ribs from
excessive sanding.

This is the same procedure we recommend when it is
time to make the wing and fuse skins.

❏ 2. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the two die-cut 1/8"
[3.2mm] plywood stab centers (SC) between the two 1/8"
[3.2mm] balsa stab centers. To ensure that the lamination
stays flat, clamp it to a flat table until the epoxy cures.

❏ 3. Use epoxy to glue the two shaped 1/4" [6.4mm]
plywood leading edge doublers together.

❏ 4. Place the stab plan on a flat building board (you may
wish to cut out the stab section) and cover the stab plan
with plan protector or wax paper. Pin the ply LE doubler
over the plan and glue the stab center to its aft edge.

❏ 5. From the 1/2" x 7/8" x 24" balsa sticks, cut and
glue stab LE’s to the LE doubler. Pin the LE’s to the
building board.

❏ 6. From the remaining 1/2" x 7/8" balsa stick, cut and
glue the stab tips to the LE.

❏ 7. Cut the 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" balsa stab TE to length. Pin
and glue the TE in position at the aft edge of the stab center.

❏ 8. From the 1/8" x 1/2" x 30" balsa sticks, cut and glue
stab ribs between the LE and TE. Note: Sand a bevel on
the LE of the ribs to fit the angle of the stab LE.

❏ 9. Remove the stab from your building board. Inspect all
the glue joints and add CA to any joints that don’t appear
strong. Trim and sand the LE and stab tips to match the
shape on the stab plan. Use a bar sander to sand the
entire top and bottom surface until it is flat and even. Be
careful that you don’t sand any area of the stab too thin.

- 10 -

❏ 10. Place one of the stab skins on your building board.
Apply an even bead of medium or thick CA to one side of
the stab framework. Place the framework on the stab skin
and press it down firmly until the glue has set.

❏ 11. From the 1/2" x 1/2" x 30" balsa stick, cut and glue
1" [25.4mm ) long hinge blocks to the trailing edge of the
stab and stab skin at the locations shown on the stab
plan. Sand the hinge blocks flush with the TE.

❏ 12. Glue the second stab skin to the stab framework.

❏ 13. Trim the top and bottom stab skins flush with the LE,

TE and stab tips.

❏ 14. Draw a centerline around the stab LE and tips to
help you maintain symmetry during sanding. Rough shape
the LE and the tips to the approximate cross-section
shown on the plan.

BUILD THE FIN

❏ 1. Make a left and right fin skin by cutting two 3/32" x
3" x 24" balsa sheets in half. Edge glue two sheets
together to make two 6" x 12" sheets.

❏ 2. Place the fin plan on a flat building board. Cover the
fin plan with plan protector or wax paper.

❏ 3. From a 1/2" x 7/8" x 24" balsa stick, cut a fin LE to
shape and pin it to the building board. From a 3/8" x 1/2" x
30" balsa stick, cut a fin TE and pin it to the building board.

❏ 4. From the 1/8" x 1/2" x 30" balsa sticks, cut and glue
fin ribs between the LE and TE.

❏ 5. From the remaining 1/2" x 1/2" balsa stick, cut and
glue 1" [25.4mm ) long hinge blocks to the trailing edge of
the fin at the locations shown on the stab plan.

❏ 6. Remove the fin from your building board. Inspect all
the glue joints and add CA to any joints that don’t appear
strong. Use a bar sander to sand the entire top and
bottom surface until it is flat and even. Be careful that you
don’t sand any area of the fin too thin.

❏ 7. Position the fin over the fin plan. Mark the location of
the top of formers F-8 and F-9 on both sides of the fin, .

❏ 8. Place one of the fin skins on your building board.
Apply an even bead of medium or thick CA to one side of
the fin framework. Place the framework on the fin skin,

aligning the end of the skin with the marks for the
formers. Press the skin down firmly until the glue has set.

❏ 9. Trim the fin skin flush with the LE, TE and the
balance tab opening at the top of the fin.

❏ 10. Glue the second fin skin to the framework aligning
the edge of the fin skin with the marks for the formers.

❏ 11. Trim the second skin flush with the framework. Draw
a centerline around the fin to help you maintain symmetry
during sanding. Sand a radius on the LE to the
approximate cross-section shown on the plan.

- 11 -

BUILD THE ELEVATORS

❏ ❏ 1. Place the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa elevator
base over the plan. Mark the locations of the “ribs” on
both sides of the base.

❏ ❏ 2. From the grooved 11/16" x 11/16" x 18" balsa

control surface LE, cut a piece to the length shown on
the plan.

❏ ❏ 3. Glue the elevator base into the slot in the control
surface LE, perpendicular to the slot. Hint: An easy
method of accomplishing this is by inserting the aft edge
of the elevator base in a remaining piece of LE (do not
glue it to the elevator base) and holding both pieces of
LE against your building board while gluing.

❏ ❏ 4. Position the elevator with the LE hanging over the
edge of the table. Use the 1/8" x 9/32" x 30" balsa sticks
to make the elevator ribs gluing them to the elevator at
the marks you made previously.

❏ ❏ 5. Cut and glue the elevator ribs to the other side of
the elevator base.

❏ ❏ 6. From the 1/8" x 1" x 30" balsa stick, cut and glue
the balance tab base, centered on the LE of the elevator,
at the location shown on the plan.

❏ ❏ 7. Sand the end of the elevator base, LE and balance
tab base even. Cut the elevator tip from a 5/8" x 3/4" x 6"
balsa stick and glue it to the elevator outboard end, centered
on the end of the elevator base, LE and balance tab.

❏ ❏ 8. Sand the front of the balance tab base and
elevator tip even. Cut a 3" [76.2mm] long balance tab LE
from a 3/8" x 3/4" x 12" balsa stick. Glue the LE to the
front edge of the balance tab and elevator tip.

❏ ❏ 9. Cut a balance tab root cap rib from the remaining
1/8" x 1" balsa stick. Glue it to the root end of the balance
tab. Glue a 1/8" x 9/32" rib to both sides of the balance tab
at the location shown on the plan.

❏ ❏ 10. From the 3/8" x 1-1/4" x 6" balsa block, cut a
torque rod block to fit the opening in the elevator base.
Glue the block, centered on the LE, elevator base and ribs.

❏ ❏ 11. Sand the root end of the elevator even. Cut a root
doubler rib from the remaining 1/8" x 1" balsa stick. Glue

the doubler to the root end of the elevator.

Note: We used Robart Large Hinge Points #310 to hinge
the elevators to the stab. If you are using large hinge
points, glue balsa hinge blocks to the elevator at the hinge
locations.

❏ ❏ 12. Sand the tip of the elevator to match the outline
on the plan.

- 12 -

❏ ❏ 13. Use a razor plane and bar sander to shape the
ribs to match the typical elevator cross-section shown on
the plan. Note that there is some outward curvature of the
ribs to provide the scale ribbed appearance.

❏ 14. Return to step 1 and build the second elevator the
same way.

❏ 15. Use thick or medium CA to tack glue the elevators
to the stab — just a drop in three or four places. Make
sure to leave a 1/16" gap between the stab and the
balance tab root rib. Also, make sure the elevators are
centered vertically on the stab.

❏ 16. Use a razor plane and your sanding bar to sand the
elevator and stab tips flush. Avoid sanding the stab skin.
Proceed slowly, removing small amounts of material at
a time.

❏ 17. Mark each elevator and stab so they can be
reinstalled correctly later. Carefully “break” both elevators
free from the stab and sand off any glue bumps left from
the CA you used to tack glue the elevators to the stab.

❏ 18. Position the elevators over the elevator plan and
mark the hinge locations. Tape the elevators to the stab
and transfer the hinge locations from the elevator to
the stab.

❏ 19. Mark a centerline on the LE of the elevators. Install
your heavy duty hinges (not included) at each hinge
location on the centerline of the elevator LE. Do not glue
the hinges in until after the stab and elevator are covered.

❏ 20. Test fit the hinges in the elevators and stab and
adjust as necessary to get a close fit between the LE of
the elevator and TE of the stab.

BUILD THE RUDDER

❏ 1. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa forward, aft and
balance tab bases together.

❏ 2. Place the rudder base over the plan and mark the
locations of the “ribs” on both sides of the base.

❏ 3. Use the plan to measure and cut a control surface
leading edge from the remaining shaped stick. Glue the
rudder base into the slot in the control surface LE,
perpendicular to the slot in the LE.

❏ 4. Position the rudder with the LE hanging over the
edge of the table. Use the 1/8" x 9/32" x 30" balsa sticks
to make the rudder ribs, gluing them to the rudder at the
marks you made previously.

❏ 5. Cut and glue the rudder ribs to the other side of the
rudder base.

- 13 -

❏ 6. Sand the LE of the balance tab base and ribs even.
Cut a 3-1/2" long balance tab LE from the remaining 3/8"
x 3/4" balsa stick. Glue the LE, centered on the front edge
of the balance tab base and ribs.

❏ 7. Sand the bottom of the rudder even. Cut a root rib
from the remaining 1/8" x 1" balsa stick and glue it,
centered on the bottom of the rudder.

❏ 8. From the remaining 3/8" x 1-1/4" balsa block, cut a
torque rod block to fit the opening in the rudder base.
Glue the block, centered on the LE, rudder base and ribs.
Note: If large pin point hinges are used to hinge the
rudder to the fin, glue balsa hinge blocks to the rudder at
the hinge locations.

❏ 9. Sand the balance tab LE to match the outline on the
plan.

❏ 10. Use a razor plane and bar sander to shape the ribs
to match the typical rudder cross-section shown on the
plan. Note that there is some outward curvature of the ribs
to provide the scale ribbed appearance.

❏ 11. Use thick or medium CA to tack glue the rudder to
the fin — remember, just a drop in two or three places.
With the rudder centered on the fin TE, leave a 1/16" gap
between the fin and the balance tab.

❏ 12. Use a razor plane and your sanding bar to sand the
rudder and fin flush. Avoid sanding the fin skin. Proceed
slowly, removing small amounts of material at a time.

❏ 13. Position the rudder over the fuselage plan and mark
the hinge locations. Tape the rudder to the fin and transfer
the hinge locations from the rudder to the fin.

❏ 14. Mark a centerline on the LE of the rudder. Install
heavy duty hinges (not included) at each hinge location on
the centerline of the rudder LE. Do not glue the hinges in
until after the finish has been applied.

❏ 15. Mark “bevel to” lines on the sides of the rudder LE.
Shape the LE to a “V” as shown on the rudder cross­section.

❏ 16. Test fit the hinges in the elevators and stab and
adjust as necessary to get a close fit between the LE of
the elevator and TE of the stab.

- 14 -

BUILD THE WING

BUILD THE WING CENTER SECTION

NOTE: The wing root ribs are stamped only with a
number (2 is R-2), the wing tip ribs are stamped with a T
and a number (T4 is T-4).

❏ 1. The center section main spar is made of two
die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] lite plywood pieces (two halves)
glued to the back of four die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] birch
plywood pieces (four halves).

❏ 2. Lightly sand the surfaces of the six pieces that make
up the center main spar.

Die-Cut 1/8" [3.2mm] Birch Plywood

Center Main Spar

Die-Cut 1/8" [3.2mm] Lite Plywood

Center Main Spar

❏ 3. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the six center spar
pieces together. Make sure the joints of the birch plywood
spars are opposite each other. The joint of the lite plywood
spar, that is glued to the back, should match the front
birch plywood spar. Use the template on the wing plan to
assure proper alignment. Use weights to hold the
assembly flat on your building table while the epoxy cures.

❏ 4. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]
lite ply ribs R-1 between the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] birch ply
sub ribs R-1C and R-1D. Also, epoxy the die-cut 1/8"
[3.2mm] lite ply ribs R-2 between the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]
birch ply sub ribs R-2C and R-2D. Remove any excess
epoxy using a paper towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol.

Be sure to make a left and a right of each assembly.

❏ 5. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm]
plywood sub ribs R-6A to the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa
ribs R-6. Remove any excess epoxy with a paper towel
dampened with isopropyl alcohol. Be sure to make a left

and a right of each assembly.

❏ 6. Join the die-cut 1/4" [6.4mm] balsa aft center
leading edge pieces at the center, over the template

provided on the plan. Use the plan as a guide to mark the

rib locations on the aft LE. Glue the die-cut 1/4" [6.4mm]
balsa forward center leading edge pieces together at
the center. With the joints opposite each other, glue the aft
LE, centered, on the forward LE. Do not apply glue to

the forward LE between the embossed lines.

Note: On some of the die-cut 1/4" [6.4mm] balsa pieces

the edges may be slightly deformed. This will not affect
the appearance of the wing since the edges will be
sanded to shape later in the building sequence.

❏ 7. Join the die-cut 1/4" [6.4mm] balsa forward center
trailing edge pieces at the center. Glue the die-cut 1/4"

[6.4mm] balsa aft center trailing edge pieces together at
the center. The forward TE is slightly wider than the aft TE.
Use the plan as a guide to mark the rib locations on the
forward TE. With the joints opposite each other, glue the
aft TE, centered, on the forward TE.

❏ 8. After the glue has cured, use a razor saw to cut loose
and remove the area of the forward LE between the
embossed lines.

❏ 9. Position the center main spar over the template on
the wing plan and mark the rib locations on both sides of
the spar.

- 15 -

❏ 10. Use epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] birch ply
forward spar doublers (FSD) to the forward center main
spar (the 1/8" birch ply main spar), aligning the doubler
with the slot for the landing gear strut and the top and
bottom of the center main spar.

❏ 11. Use epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] birch ply
aft spar doublers (ASD) to the aft center main spar (the
1/8" lite ply main spar), aligning the doubler with the slot
for the landing gear strut and the top and bottom of the
center main spar.

❏ 12. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the forward rib R-1 and
R-2 assemblies perpendicular to the center main spar
and forward spar doublers. Be sure to align the slot for the
landing gear rail, in the ribs, with the slot in the spar

doubler. Remove any excess epoxy from the landing gear
rail slots before the epoxy cures.

❏ 13. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa forward ribs R-3
through R-5 in their respective locations, perpendicular to
the center main spar.

❏ 14. Test fit the two die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood wing
dowel plates (WDP) in the slots in the sub ribs R-6A.

Check the alignment of the assembly with the marks on
the center main spar. When satisfied with the fit, use
epoxy to glue the dowel plates to the ribs and the ribs to
the main spar, making sure the ribs are perpendicular to
the main spar.

❏ 15. Support the ends of the center main spar. Glue the
die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa aft ribs R-3 through R-6,
perpendicular to the aft side of the center main spar, flush
with the top and bottom edge.

❏ 16. Use epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood
aft ribs R-1A and R-2A, perpendicular to the aft side of
the center main spar and the aft spar doubler.

❏ 17. From the remaining 1/2" x 7/8" balsa stick, make
two 7/8" tall blocks to support the aft ends of ribs R-1A
and to prevent the center section from twisting. Tack glue
the blocks to the ribs. Pin the blocks to your building board
and weight down the center section.

❏ 18. Glue the balsa TE assembly, centered on the aft
end of the ribs.

❏ 19. Center the LE assembly on the forward end of the
ribs. Glue the LE to ribs R-1 and R-2.

❏ 20. Insert the die-cut 1/4" balsa LE triplers from the
bottom, between ribs R-2 and R-5 and glue in place. Glue
ribs R-3, R-4, R-5 and R-6 to the LE.

- 16 -

❏ 21. Insert a T-pin from the back of the LE, through the
center of the 5/16" [7.9mm] holes in the wing dowel plate.
Keep the T-pins perpendicular to the LE as you push them
through. Remove the T-pins and drill a 3/16" [4.8mm] pilot
hole, through the balsa LE, at the pin hole locations. Enlarge
the holes to 5/16" [7.9mm] making sure that the holes in the
forward dowel plate align with the holes in the aft dowel plate.

❏ 22. From the 1/4" x 3/8" x 18" basswood stick, cut four
3" [76.2mm] long hatch rails. Use epoxy to glue the hatch
rails in the notches in ribs R-4B and R-5B.

❏ 23. From the 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" basswood stick, cut four
4-1/2" [114.3mm] long landing gear rails. Insert the rails
in the notches in ribs R-1 and R-2. Position the landing
gear on the rails, checking that the rails are parallel and
even. When satisfied with the fit, use 30-minute epoxy to
glue the rails in position.

BUILD THE WING TIP PANELS

NOTE: The tip panels are built “UPSIDE-DOWN” on the
wing plan (the jig tabs on the ribs are attached to
what is, in the end, the TOP surface of the wing.)

❏ ❏ 1. Place the wing tip panel plan on a flat building
board. Cover the plan with plan protector or wax paper.

T-Pin

Spar

❏ ❏ 2. Pin the 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" basswood main spar in
position over the plan.

❏ ❏ 3. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa ribs T-1
through T-7, perpendicular to the spar. Make sure the jig
tabs at the TE are flat against the building board.

Cut a V-Notch in the Spar

T- 6

❏ ❏ 4. Cut a V-notch in the 3/8" x 1/2" x 30" basswood
bottom spar so it can bend at rib T-6. Insert the bottom
spar into place. Do not glue the bottom spar to the ribs.

❏ ❏ 5. Notch the root end of the shaped 30" [762mm] balsa
LE and the 1/2" x 1" x 30" balsa TE to match the plan.

❏ ❏ 6. Glue the TE centered on the aft end of the ribs.
Note: Rib T-7 is glued flush with the top edge (plan side)
of the TE.

❏ ❏ 7. With the wing weighted down so the entire top spar
and all the jig tabs rest on the building board, apply glue
to all the rib and bottom spar joints. Make sure the bottom
spar is securely glued at T-6 where it is notched.

❏ ❏ 8. Glue the shaped LE, centered on the front of all
the ribs, except T-7 which will be off-center.

- 17 -

❏ ❏ 9. Use a straightedge to draw lines on the LE and TE,
from the bottom edge of rib T-6 to the bottom edge of rib
T-7. Use a razor plane and sanding bar to taper the LE
and TE.

❏ ❏ 10. Cut two 4-3/4" [120.65mm] long aileron hatch
rails from a 1/4" x 3/8" x 18" basswood stick. Use 6-minute

epoxy to glue the rails in the notches of ribs T-4 and T-5.

❏ ❏ 11. From the remaining 1/2" x 1/2" balsa stick, cut
and glue 3/4" [19mm] long hinge blocks, centered on the
trailing edge of the wing tip panel at the locations shown
on the wing plan.

HOW TO MAKE SERVO LEAD TUBES

When the aileron servos are mounted near the wing
tips, it can be difficult to route the servo wires through
the ribs to the wing root. An easy solution is to make
servo wire tubes.

❏ ❏ A. Cut a piece of paper 6" wide and slightly longer
than the length needed to reach from the aileron servo
bay to the wing root.

❏ ❏ B. Roll the paper into a tube slightly smaller than
the holes in the wing ribs. Use a couple of pieces of
tape to hold the tube together.

❏ ❏ C. Insert the tube into the holes in the ribs and tack
glue the tube to the ribs with CA.

❏ 12. Remove the wing tip panel from your building board.
Return to step 1 of the BUILD THE WING TIP PANELS
and build the other wing tip panel. Be sure to build a left
and right wing tip panel.

JOIN THE WING PANELS

❏ 1. Sand the center section LE to the approximate shape
of the wing tip panels LE. Avoid altering the shape of the
ribs during this process. A piece of masking tape on the
edge of each rib can be used to protect them. The final
shaping of the LE will be done after the wing is joined.

❏ ❏ 2. Trim off all the wing tip panel jig tabs, except on
ribs T- 7 .

❏ ❏ 3. Draw a line on rib T-1 connecting the forward and
aft edges of the spars. Using a sharp hobby knife, remove
the wood from between the lines.

- 18 -

15/16"
[23.8mm]

15/16"
[23.8mm]

Rib T-1

Top Spar

Bottom Spar

❏ ❏ 4. On the wing tip panel, trim both the top and bottom
spar 15/16" [23.8mm] from rib T-1.

❏ ❏ 5. With the embossed “tip” away from the rib, position
the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood wing spacer, next to
the center main spar, against the center section rib R-1.
Slide the wing tip panel onto the center main spar. You
want the wing tip panel and wing center section to both fit
against the spacer. You will need to notch the LE and TE
of the wing center section to fit into the notches in the
wing tip panel LE and TE. The spar in the tip panel may
also need to be trimmed slightly. Sight down the tip panel
spar checking for alignment with the center main spar. If it
is not aligned, trim the LE or TE notches slightly, checking
the alignment often. Important: Remove only small
amounts of wood when trimming. If you remove too much,
it’s impossible to put it back.

❏ 6. Return to step 2 and fit the other wing tip panel to the
wing center section.

❏ 7. Place the wing upside down on your building table
with the 7/8" x 1-1/4" x 9-1/2" balsa dihedral jig block
under the center section, so that the center section is 7/8"
from the building board.

❏ 8. Apply weights to the wing tips so that the T-7 jig tabs
and spar tips are against the building table. Align the LE
and TE joints trimming if needed to relieve any stresses.
Make sure the center main spar and tip panel spars are
aligned.

❏ 9. Tack glue the TE and spar joints with CA.

❏ 10. Remove the wing tip weights and look at the entire

wing. Make sure there are no twists in the wing. If there
are any problems, pop loose the wing joints and realign
them.

❏ 11. Pop the tacked glue joints loose and apply
30-minute epoxy to all the joints between the wing center
section and wing tip panels. Use clamps to hold the joints
tight at the spar and T-pins to hold the LE and TE together.

❏ 12. Install the 1/2" x 1/2" balsa hinge point
reinforcement blocks at the locations shown on the wing
plan. The hinge blocks should be flush with the bottom of
the TE along the flaps.

❏ 13. Mark the hinge block locations on the aft edge of
the TE to make it easier finding them after the wing
is sheeted.

❏ 14. Sand the top and bottom of the wing even. Any high
spots will cause you to sand through the wing skins after
they are applied. It is important to have an even structure
if you want a smooth skin. Important: Do not remove the
jig tab on rib T-7 until after the bottom of the wing tip panel
is skinned.

❏ 15. Sand the center section LE and TE to blend with the
outer wing panels.

❏ 16. Sand the LE and TE’s to blend them into the ribs.

- 19 -

SHEET THE WING PANELS

❏ 1. Sort through the 3/32" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets,
separating the best wood with the most uniform grain for
the top wing skins. Use the remaining sheets for the
bottom skins.

30" [762mm]

3"
[76.2mm]

❏ 2. Make four outer wing panel skins using the method
described for making the stab skins. Cut two 3/32" x 3" x
30" balsa sheets in half diagonally. Edge glue one of
these sheets to four full 3/32" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets, that
have also been edge glued together.

6" [152.4mm]

1-1/2" [38.1mm]

7-1/2"

[190.5mm]

3" [76.2mm]

❏ 3. Make four forward top LE skins by cutting ten
5-7/8" [149.2mm] long pieces from two 3/32" x 3" x 30"
balsa sheets. Cut two of the pieces in half lengthwise.
Edge glue two 3" x 5-7/8" pieces and one 1-1/2" x 5-7/8"
piece together to make four 3/32" x 5-7/8" x 7-1/2" forward
top LE skins.

7" [177.8mm]

3-1/2" [88.9mm]

1-1/2" [38.1mm]

12" [304.8mm]

14" [355.6mm]

❏ 4. Make two top TE skins by cutting two 14" [355.6mm]
long pieces from a 3/32" x 3" x 30" balsa sheet, four 12"
[304.8mm] long pieces from two 3/32" x 3" x 30" balsa
sheets and four 7" [177.8mm] long pieces from a fourth
3/32" x 3" x 30" balsa sheet. Edge glue a 3" x 12" piece
centered on each side of a 3" x 14" piece. Then, edge
glue a 3" x 7" piece, centered on each 12" piece. After the
glue dries, trim the top TE skin following the sketch above.

❏ ❏ 5. Hold an outer wing panel skin over the bottom of
the outer wing panel. The wood grain of the skin runs
parallel to the main spar. Mark the shape of the wing on
the skin, allowing about 3/16" [4.8mm] extra on all sides.
Cut the wing skin along the marks. On the wing bottom,
the outer wing panel is sheeted from rib T-6 to the center
of R-1. We suggest adding a piece of left over balsa, from
the rib dies, to each side of R-1A, aft of the center spar.
This will provide a larger gluing surface for the wing skin.
Save the excess skin for use later.

❏ ❏ 6. Place the wing center section on the dihedral block
and the wing tips against the building table. Check the fit of
the wing skin on the outer wing panel and make any

adjustments necessary for a good fit. Use thick CA to glue
the wing skin to the LE first. Use masking tape to hold it in
position until the CA cures. Next, wet the outside of the
sheeting with warm water. This will soften the sheeting and
allow it to bend around the LE. Apply thick CA to all the
structure that will contact the bottom of the wing tip
sheeting, from the main spar forward. Carefully press the
wing skin onto the structure and hold it in place until the
glue cures. Finally, carefully lift the aft edge of the wing tip
sheeting and apply thick CA to the remaining structure and
press the sheeting against the structure until the CA cures.
From a 3/32" x 3" x 30" balsa sheet, cut a piece to finish the
sheeting at the TE. Note: Aliphatic resin glue may be
substituted for thick CA when sheeting the wing. Use pins or
weights to hold the sheeting in position while the clue cures.

❏ ❏ 7. Do any trimming necessary to fit the outer wing
panel skin piece cut off in step 5, over ribs T-6 and T-7 and
glue it in place.

Repeat steps 5, 6 and 7 for the other wing tip panel.

❏ 8. Remove the weight from the wing tips and turn the
wing over. Remove the jig tab on rib T-7. With the wing
resting on the building table, position the die-cut 1/8"