Top Flite A0400 INSTRUCTION BOOK

WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both

material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts
damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite‘s liability exceed the original cost of the
purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no
liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final
user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all
resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the
buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

Top Flite Models

P.O. Box 788

Urbana, Il 61803

Technical Assistance - Call [phone]

P51GP05 V1.0

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

Entire Contents © Copyright 1997

™

A

M

USA

IN

E

D

TABLE OF CONTENTS

AND BUILDING SEQUENCE

INTRODUCTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

ENGINE SELECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

RADIO SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS . . . . . . . . 3

LANDING GEAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

SCALE COCKPIT INTERIOR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

COMPETITION-MINDED MODELERS. . . . . . . . 4

DOCUMENTATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

BUILDING SUPPLIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

TOOLS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

OPTIONAL TOOLS & SUPPLIES . . . . . . . . . . 5

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

DIE-CUT PATTERNS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 & 7

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

TYPES OF WOOD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

METRIC CONVERSIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

GET READY TO BUILD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

BUILD THE STABILIZER. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

BUILD THE FIN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

BUILD THE RUDDER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

BUILD THE WING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

BUILD THE MAIN STRUCTURE . . . . . . . . . . 13

JOIN THE WING PANELS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

SHEET THE BOTTOM OF THE WING . . . . . 20

SHEET THE TOP OF THE WING . . . . . . . . . 22

BUILD THE AILERONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

INSTALL THE WING TIPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

BUILD THE FLAPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

BUILD THE FUSELAGE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

BUILD THE FUSE SIDES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

INSTALL THE RADIATOR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

INSTALL THE FIREWALL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

MOUNT THE WING TO THE FUSELAGE . . 32

ATTACH THE STAB AND FIN. . . . . . . . . . . . 33

BUILD THE ELEVATORS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

ENGINE INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

FUSELAGE COMPLETION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

INSTALL THE DORSAL FIN . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

MAKE THE TOP COWL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

ASSEMBLE THE COWL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

BUILD THE WING FILLETS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43

INSTALL THE FORWARD WING FAIRING . 44

FIT THE SCOOP. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

HINGING THE CONTROL SURFACES . . . . . . 45

INSTALL THE AILERON & FLAP SERVOS . . 46

INSTALL THE RUDDER PUSHROD . . . . . . . . 48

INSTALL THE THROTTLE PUSHROD . . . . . . 48

RETRACT INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49

FINISHING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49

SURFACE PREPARATION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49

BALANCE THE MODEL LATERALLY. . . . . . 50

COVERING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

APPLY TRIM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

EXHAUST STACKS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

PAINTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

APPLY DECALS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

FINAL HOOKUPS AND CHECKS . . . . . . . . . . 52

INSTALL THE HINGES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

INSTALL THE HARDWARE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

ATTACH THE CANOPY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

SET THE CONTROL THROWS . . . . . . . . . . 53

BALANCE YOUR MODEL. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

PREFLIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

CHARGE THE BATTERIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

BALANCE THE PROPELLER . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY . . . . . . . . . . . 55

GROUND CHECK THE MODEL . . . . . . . . . . 55

RANGE CHECK YOUR RADIO. . . . . . . . . . . 55

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . 55

AMA SAFETY CODE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55

FLYING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . back cover

FUEL MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS . . back cover

TAKE OFF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . back cover

FLIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . back cover

LANDING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . back cover

Your Giant P-51D is not a toy, but a sophisticated
working model that functions very much like an
actual airplane.

Because of its realistic performance and size, if
you do not assemble and operate your P-51
correctly, you could possibly injure yourself or
spectators and damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience totally
enjoyable, get assistance with assembly and
your first flights from an experienced,
knowledgeable modeler. You’ll learn faster and

avoid risking your model before you’re truly ready
to solo. Your local hobby shop has information
about flying clubs in your area whose membership
includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,300
chartered clubs across the United States. We
recommend you join the AMA which will insure you
at AMA club sites and events. AMA membership is
required at chartered club fields where qualified
flight instructors are available.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below:

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. [phone]

Fax [phone]

or via the internet at : http://www.modelaircraft.org

PROTECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF & OTHERS

FOLLOW THIS IMPORTANT

SAFETY PRECAUTION

- 2 -

INTRODUCTION

Thank you for purchasing the Top Flite Giant
Scale Gold Edition P-51D Mustang. Since this is

a scale model with lots of detail, you’ll find it takes
a little longer to complete than the sport models
you’ve built before. But since this is a Top Flite
Gold Edition kit, it isn’t more difficult to build than
those sport models. The Top Flite Giant Mustang
uses the same materials and standard construction
techniques you’ve already become accustomed to.
You won’t have to learn anything new to end up
with a first-class scale model! Most of the trim
schemes you’ll find of the full-size Mustangs should
be easy to duplicate with Top Flite MonoKote film.
The Top Flite Giant Mustang is an excellent
Sportsman or Expert Scale subject. Its large size
and accurate scale outline afford you the
opportunity to go all-out with as many extra details
as you like.

The Top Flite P-51D is an excellent sport scale
model that is just as “at home” with sport flying as it
is in competition. Because of its 84-1/2" wingspan,
the Top Flite P-51D is eligible for IMAA events. The
IMAA (International Miniature Aircraft Association)
is an organization that promotes non-competitive
flying of giant scale models.

IMAA

205 S. Hilldale Road

Salina, KS 67401

Please inspect all parts carefully before starting
to build! If any parts are missing, broken or
defective, or if you have any questions about
building or flying this model, please call us at
[phone] and we’ll be glad to help. If you
are calling for replacement parts, please look up
the part numbers and the kit identification
number (stamped on the end of the carton) and
have them ready when calling.

PRECAUTIONS

1. You must build the plane according to the plan
and instructions. Do not alter or modify the

model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or
unflyable model. In a few cases the plan and

instructions may differ slightly from the photos.
In those instances you should assume the plan
and written instructions are correct.

2. You must take time to build straight, true
and strong.

3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first
class condition, the correct sized engine and
correct components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.)
throughout your building process.

4. You must properly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates properly
on the ground and in the air.

5. You must test the operation of the model before
every flight to insure that all equipment is operating

and you must make certain that the model has
remained structurally sound.

6. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot,
you must fly the model only with the help of a
competent, experienced R/C pilot.

ENGINE SELECTION

Recommended engine size:
30 - 45cc displacement Glow Engine
30 - 60cc displacement Gasoline Engine

We strongly recommend the use of a soft engine
mount of some kind, to relieve the stresses on the
airframe and radio system and to make your
aircraft quieter. J-Tec, Soundmaster and others
produce soft mounts for large engines.

Note: If you are using a gasoline engine, you will
need to make sure that your fuel lines and tank are
made specifically to handle gasoline.

RADIO SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS:

The Top Flite Giant P-51D requires a minimum of 10
servos. Due to the large scale of this aircraft, the
Giant P-51D requires high torque servos with a
minimum of 45 inch/ounces of torque to control the
split elevator (2 required), rudder (1 required) and
ailerons (2 required). Two 1/4- scale servos may be
used in place of the three servos used for the
elevator and rudder. If 1/4-scale servos are used you
will need to make an elevator joiner (not included)
and may need to route the pushrods differently.

On our prototypes we used Y-connectors to connect
the elevator servos. We also used Y-connectors to
connect the flap servos.

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you

with a top quality kit and great instructions, but
ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished
model depends on how you build it; therefore, we
cannot in any way guarantee the performance of
your completed model, and no representations
are expressed or implied as to the performance
or safety of your completed model.

Your Top Flite Gold Edition Giant P-51D is
intended for scale and general sport flying
including mild aerobatics such as loops, stall
turns, rolls, etc. Its structure is designed to
withstand such stresses. If you intend to use
your P-51D for more abusive types of flying,
such as racing or aggressive aerobatics, it is
your responsibility to reinforce areas of the
model that will be subjected to the resulting
unusually high stresses.

- 3 -

LANDING GEAR

The Top Flite Giant P-51 is designed for the Robart
#622-5 retracts. Robart # will work great if you
prefer to use fixed main landing gear.

SCALE COCKPIT INTERIOR

Your model won’t be complete without the Top Flite
Giant P-51D Cockpit Kit (TOPQ8406). It includes
the floor, side panels, full instrument panel and
seat. The Cockpit Kit can easily be installed after
the fuselage is completed. The servos and
pushrods are located so the cockpit can be
installed without any modification.

COMPETITION-MINDED

MODELERS

The Giant P-51D was enlarged from the .60 size
Top Flite Gold Edition P-51D. The .60 size P-51D
was finished with Top Flite Super MonoKote ®.
The MonoKote-covered prototype was good
enough to finish 2ndin Expert at the very
competitive 1992 Blue Grass Scale Classic in
Kentucky. It scored quite well in static due to its
excellent outline and posted the highest flight
scores in the expert category.

If you plan to enter your Giant P-51D in scale
competition (it’s lots of fun and the runways are
almost always paved), this kit qualifies for Fun
Scale and the

Sportsman

and

Expert

classes in
Sport Scale. Fun Scale and Sport Scale have the
same flight requirements where you must perform
ten maneuvers of which five are mandatory. If you
have never competed in a scale contest, you could
start out in Fun Scale. In Fun Scale, the only
documentation you need for static judging is any
proof that a full-size aircraft of this type, in the
paint/markings scheme on your model, did exist. A
single photo, kit box cover, even a painting is

sufficient proof! If you’re interested, contact the AMA
for a rule book which will tell you everything you
need to know. Look in the back of the AMA
magazine

Model Aviation

for a schedule of events.

The trim scheme of the P-51D on your kit box was
inspired by the full scale “OLD BOY” with only slight
modifications. The decal set included with the kit will
allow you to quickly and easily duplicate the
markings. If you prefer a different trim scheme,

Scale Model Research

offers many documentation

packages as a guide.

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED

These are additional items you will need to complete
your P-51D that are not included with your kit. Order
numbers are in parentheses (GPMQ4161). Our
exclusive brand is listed where possible: TOP is the
Top Flite brand, GPM is the Great Planes brand and
HCA is the Hobbico brand.

❏ 6 to 7-channel radio with 10 servos (5 standard

and 5 with a minimum of 45 inch/ounces of torque
We recommend a 6-volt 1200mAh receiver battery

❏ (2) 24" Servo extensions for ailerons
❏ (3) “Y” Harnesses for elevator, rudder/tail wheel

steering and flaps

❏ Main retracts (Robart # 622-5) (ROBQ1635)
❏ Tailwheel retract (Robart # 160LWC)

(ROBQ2225)

❏ Air control kit
❏ (2) 5" Main wheels

❏ 1-3/4" Tail wheel
❏ 16-24 oz. Fuel tank
❏ 5" Spinner
❏ 36" Gas or glow fuel tubing depending on type

of fuel used

❏ 1/2" R/C foam rubber padding (HCAQ1050)
❏ 1/4 to 1/5 Scale pilot figure
❏ (5) Heavy-duty control horns
❏ (26) Heavy-duty hinge points
❏ Pull - pull cable system for steerable tail wheel
❏ Easy Fueler

™

Fuel Fill Valve for gas

(GPMQ4161) or glow (GPMQ4160)

❏ Switch & Charge Jack Mounting Set

(GPMM1000)

❏ Fuelproof paint (Top Flite

®

LustreKote™paint)

❏ Air tank
❏ (16) #6 x 1/2" sheet metal screws for mounting

the retracts

❏ Engine mount (Isolation mount recommended)
❏ Propellers,

see

the engine instructions

❏ 4-5 rolls Top Flite Super MonoKote covering

BUILDING SUPPLIES

The following is a list of building supplies that are
required. We recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA
and Epoxy.

❏ 4 oz. Thin CA (GPMR6003)
❏ 4 oz. Medium CA+ (GPMR6009)
❏ 2 oz. Thick CA- (GPMR6015)
❏ CA Accelerator (GPMR6035)
❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ 6-Minute epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ 30-Minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ 4 oz. Pro wood glue (GPMR6161)
❏ Canopy glue
❏ Microballoons (TOPR1090)
❏ Milled fiberglass (GPMR6165)
❏ Lightweight hobby filler (Balsa Color,

HCAR3401)

❏ Auto body filler (Bondo® or similar)
❏ Isopropyl alcohol
❏ 3M #75 or #77 spray adhesive

DOCUMENTATION

Three view drawings and photo packs of many
full size P-51s are available from:

Scale Model Research

3114 Yukon Ave, Costa Mesa, CA 92626

[phone]

- 4 -

TOOLS

❏ Sealing iron (TOPR2100)
❏ Heat gun (TOPR2000)
❏ Hobby saw, hobby knife (HCAR0100),

#11 Blades (HCAR0211)

❏ Razor plane (Master Airscrew®)
❏ Pliers (common and needle nose)
❏ Screw drivers (Phillips and flat tip)
❏ T-pins (HCAR5150)
❏ 60" Retractable Fabric Tape Measure

(HCAR0478)

❏ Straightedge with scale (HCAR0475)
❏ Masking tape (TOPR8018)
❏ Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)
❏ Easy-Touch

™

Bar Sander (or similar)

❏ Plan Protector (GPMR6167)
❏ Tack cloth (TOPR2185)
❏ 1/4-20 Tap (GPMR8105) and tap wrench

(GPMR8120)

❏ 90Þ Building square
❏ Builders triangle set (HCAR0480)
❏ .050 Long handle ball driver (GPMR8000)
❏ Hand or electric drill
❏ Drill bits: 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 7/64", 1/8", 9/64",

5/32", 3/16", 13/64", 1/4", 17/64", 5/16", 3/8"

❏ Epoxy mixing sticks (GPMR8055)

OPTIONAL SUPPLIES AND TOOLS

❏ CA Applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❏ Epoxy brushes (GPMR8060)
❏ Hot Sock™ (TOPR2175)
❏ Single-edge razor blades (HCAR0312)
❏ Curved-tip canopy scissors (HCAR0667)

EASY-TOUCH BAR SANDER

On our workbench, we have three 11" Great
Planes Easy-Touch Bar Sanders, equipped with

#80, #150 and #220-grit sandpaper. This setup is
all that is required for almost any sanding task. We
also keep some #320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper
handy for finish sanding before covering.

Great Planes Easy-Touch Bar Sanders are made
from lightweight extruded aluminum and can be
found at most hobby shops. They are available in
five sizes :

5-1/2" (GPMR6169) 33" (GPMR6174)

11" (GPMR6170) 44" (GPMR6176)
22" (GPMR6172)

The Easy-Touch Adhesive-Backed Sandpaper
comes in 2" x 12’ rolls:

80-grit (GPMR6180)
150-grit (GPMR6183)
220-grit (GPMR6185)

Assortment of 5-1/2" long strips (GPMR6189)

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

There are two types of screws used in this kit.
Sheet metal screws are designated by a number
and a length.

For example #6 x 3/4"

Machine screws are designated by a number,
threads per inch and a length.

For example 4-40 x 3/4"

To prevent some of the die-cut parts from falling
out of the die sheets, the parts may not be
completely cut out. Do not force the parts from the
sheets. Use a sharp hobby knife to carefully finish
cutting the parts out.

When you see the term “test fit” in the
instructions, it means you should first position the
part on the assembly without using any glue and
then slightly modify or sand the part as necessary
for the best fit.

Whenever the instructions tell you to glue pieces
together, CA or epoxy may be used. When a
specific type of glue is required, the instructions will
state the type of glue that is highly recommended.
When 30-minute epoxy is specified, it is highly
recommended that you use only 30-minute (or
slower) epoxy because you will need either the
working time and/or the additional strength.

To avoid irreversible mistakes, read each step

completely through to the end before you begin.

Photos and sketches are placed ahead of the

step they refer to. Frequently you can study photos
in following steps to get another view of the
same parts.

- 5 -

- 6 -

- 7 -

GET READY TO BUILD

1. Unroll the plan sheets. Reroll the plan sheets

inside out to make them lie flat. Wax paper or
Great Planes Plan Protector placed over the plan
will prevent glue from sticking to the plan.

2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do,
determine the name of each part by comparing it
with the plan and the parts list included with this
kit. Using a pencil or ballpoint pen, lightly write the
part name or size on each piece to avoid
confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns shown on
pages 6 and 7 to identify the die-cut parts and
mark them before removing them from the sheet.
Save all scraps. If any of the die-cut parts are
difficult to remove, do not force them! Instead, cut
around the parts. Use your Easy-Touch Bar
Sander or sanding block to lightly sand the edges
to remove any die-cutting irregularities.

3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate
them into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing,
fin, stab (stabilizer) and hardware. Zipper-top food
storage bags are handy to store parts in as
you sort, identify and separate them into
subassemblies.

- 8 -

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

Deg = degrees Elev = elevator

Fuse = fuselage " = inches

LE = leading edge Ply = plywood

Stab = stabilizer TE = trailing edge

TYPES OF WOOD

BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD

1/64" = .4mm
1/32" = .8mm
1/16" = 1.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm

1/8" = 3.2mm
5/32" = 4mm
3/16" = 4.8mm

1/4" = 6.4mm

3/8" = 9.5mm

1/2" = 12.7mm

5/8" = 15.9mm

3/4" = 19mm

1" = 25.4mm
2" = 50.8mm
3" = 76.2mm

6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm
15" = 381mm
18" = 457.2mm
21" = 533.4mm
24" = 609.6mm
30" = 762mm
36" = 914.4mm

METRIC CONVERSION

1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor)

Metric Scale

0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6" 7"

Inch Scale

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES

BUILD THE STABILIZER

❏ 1. Lay the plan of the stab on a flat work surface

and cover it with wax paper or Plan Protector.

❏ 2. Locate and lightly sand any imperfections on

the die-cut 1/8" balsa stab ribs S-1 through S-6.
You may need to finish cutting the notch in the
forward portion of S-1 for the die-cut 1/8" birch ply
stab joiner (SJ). Mark the extensions of the
bottom edge of the ribs across the fore and aft jig
tabs. These will help centering the LE and TE.

❏ 3. Glue together two die-cut 3/16" balsa stab

TE’s to make two pairs of 3/8" thick stab TE’s.

Since some crushing may occur during die-cutting
wood of this thickness, the TE’s are supplied
slightly long and can be trimmed.

❏ 4. The stab and fin LE’s are made from 3/8" x

3/8" x 30" balsa sticks. Cut two pieces about 1/4"
longer than the length shown on the stab plan.

❏ 5. Starting with the right half of the stab, pin ribs

S-2 and S-6 perpendicular to the building board
over their locations on the plan.

❏ 6. Use a sanding bar to sand an angle on the

LE of the ribs so that the 3/8" x 3/8" LE fits flush
on the LE of the ribs. Glue the LE, centered
vertically, onto the front edge of ribs S-2 and S-6.

❏ 7. Glue the TE centered vertically on the aft

edge of ribs S-2 and S-6.

❏ 8. Glue ribs S-3, S-4 and S-5 in their places.

Check that the jig tabs are contacting the
building surface.

❏ 9. Trim the LE and TE so they end exactly over

the stab centerline.

❏ 10. Repeat steps 5 through 8 to build the left half

of the stab. The left half of the stab is built next to the
right half with the two halves butt glued together.

❏ 11. Trim the 3/8" x 17/32" x 5-3/8" basswood

TE joiner, if necessary, to fit between the S-2 ribs.
Use 6-minute epoxy to glue it centered vertically
on the TE’s and the ribs.

❏ 12. Check the fit of the die-cut 1/8" plywood

stab joiner (ST) between the S-2 ribs and trim if
necessary. Place the stab joiner into the slots in

- 9 -

the die-cut 1/8" balsa S-1 ribs and insert the
assembly into position to check the fit. Use
6-minute epoxy to glue the assembly into position,
making sure all parts are properly aligned and the
S-1 jig tabs contact the work surface.

❏ 13. Using medium CA, reinforce any glue joints

that do not look strong.

❏ 14. Carefully remove the stab from the building

board without damaging the jig tabs.

❏ 15. Use a razor plane and a sanding bar to

blend the LE and TE to the top of the ribs.

❏ 16. Make four stab skins from four 3/32" x 3" x

30" balsa sheets. Cut each sheet in half and edge
glue two sheets together to make four skins 6" x
15". Trim the corner from the skin and glue the
corner to the opposite end of the skin. See the
sketch for the proper layout of the sheets.

❏ 17. Pin the stab back down on the building

surface. Test fit the skins on the top of the stab.
You will need to trim the skins at the root end,
making sure the skins butt against each other with
no gap at the root end.

❏ 18. Apply an even bead of medium or thick CA

to the right top edges of the stab. Place the right
stab skin in position and press it firmly down until
the glue has set. Repeat the process to install the
left stab skin.

❏ 2. Test fit the sheets together to make sure

they match well. Tightly tape the sheets together
with masking tape placed every 4" along the
seam. The sheets may not lay flat because they
are tightly taped together.

❏ 3. Place wax paper on your workbench. Flip

the sheets over and apply a bead of aliphatic
resin (

wood workers glue

such as Great Planes
Pro™) between the seams. Immediately proceed
to the next step.

❏ 4. Use a credit card or a piece of thin plywood

to simultaneously press the sheets flat as you
squeegee the excess glue from the seam. Wipe
the glue off your squeegee with a paper towel.
Immediately proceed to the next step.

❏ 5. Press the joining edges of the sheets down

with your fingers so they are flat and even.
Place weights on top of the sheets to hold them
flat until the glue dries.

❏ 6. After sheeting the structure, save any

excess sheeting for possible use in later steps.

D. To make skins the following steps are
suggested:

❏ 1. True up the edges of the sheets with a

metal straightedge and a sharp knife or a long
bar sander.

HOW TO MAKE THE SKINS

A. Whenever possible, pre-join the balsa sheets

to make a “skin” before attaching them to
the structure.

B. Many modelers like to sort the wood to put
the best wood with the most even grain structure
on the top of the wing and stab.

C. Make your skin larger than needed to allow
for misalignment. On a large surface like the
wing, 3/8" extra is suggested.

- 10 -

❏ 19. Remove the stab from the building surface.

Trim off the jig tabs with a sharp knife. Trim and
blend the LE and TE to the top of the ribs as you
did before in step 15. Check all glue joints, adding
glue as necessary.

❏ 20. If you want to modify the stab for the scale

balance tabs, now is the time to add the appropriate
structure. Refer to the plan for the locations and
sizes of the balance tabs (parts not included).

❏ 21. From the 3/4" x 3/4" x 30" balsa stick, cut

3/4" long hinge point backups. Glue the backups
in position as shown on the plan. Sand the
backups flush with the top of the stab ribs.

❏ 22. It is important to get a good glue bond

between the stab structure and the bottom stab
skins. Apply a heavy bead of medium or thick CA to
all of the bottom edges of the right side of the stab
structure. Place a skin on the structure and hold it in
place with your hands until the glue sets. Repeat
this procedure for the left stab skin. Be careful not to
bend or twist the stab during this step.

❏ 23. Sand the ends of the stab skins, LE and TE

flush with the sides of the S-6 ribs. Round the LE of
the stab to match the stab cross section shown on
the plan.

❏ 24. Glue the shaped 3/4" balsa stab tips onto

both ends of the stab. Use a razor plane and
sanding bar to shape the stab tips to match the
contour of the stab.

❏ 25. If you are building the stab with notches for

balance tabs, trim the openings at this time.

BUILD THE FIN

❏ 1. From a 3/8" x 3/8" x 30" balsa stick make the

fin LE.

❏ 2. Glue the die-cut 1/4" balsa fin forward TE (F)

and aft TE (A) together. Lightly sand the edges of
the TE’s to blend them together.

❏ 3. Locate the die-cut 1/8" balsa fin ribs V-1

through V-6. Pin the ribs to your building surface
over their proper locations. Center the LE on the
front of the ribs and glue in place. Note: The fin LE
protrudes through the stab and into former F-11.

❏ 4. Center the fin TE on the aft edge of the ribs

and glue in place.

❏ 5. Apply medium CA to any joints that do not

appear to be well glued.

- 11 -

❏ 6. Sand the LE to match the ribs on the upward

facing side (left side). Sand the ends of the TE
flush with the ribs.

❏ 7. Make a fin skin for each side of the fin using

two 3/32" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets. Cut each sheet
into two 12" pieces. Edge glue the two pieces
together and trim the corner of one piece as shown
in the sketch.

❏ 8. With the structure flat on the building surface,

apply medium CA to the top of the ribs, the LE up
to rib V-1 and the TE up to the notch just after rib
V-1. Place the fin skin on the structure with the
bottom edge overhanging V-1 by at least 1/2" and
hold in place until the glue sets.

Important: Make sure to remove the pins holding the
ribs to the building surface before gluing the skin on.

❏ 9. Trim off the jig tabs and blend the LE and TE

to the ribs on the right side of the fin.

❏ 10. If you want to modify the fin for the scale

balance tab, now is the time to add the appropriate
structure. Refer to the plan for the location and
size of the balance tab (parts not included).

❏ 11. From the 3/4" x 3/4" x 30" balsa stick cut

3/4" long hinge point backups. Glue the backups
in position as shown on the plan and sand them
flush with the top of the stab ribs.

❏ 12. Glue the right fin skin in position with the

bottom edge overhanging V-1 by at least 1/2" .

❏ 13. Trim the skins flush with the LE, TE and top

of the fin. Shape the LE to match the cross-section
on the fin plan.

❏ 14. Glue the shaped 7/8" balsa fin tip to the top

of the fin. Use a razor plane and sanding bar to do
the initial shaping. The final shaping will be done
after the rudder is taped to the fin.

❏ 15. If you are building the fin with an opening

for the balance tab, trim the opening at this time.

BUILD THE RUDDER

❏ 1. Glue the two die-cut 1/4" balsa rudder LE’s

together. Even up the edges with a sanding bar,
but save any tapering for later.

❏ 2. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa forward (RPF)

and aft (RPR) rudder plates together.

❏ 3. Draw a centerline on the aft surface of the

rudder LE. Draw two parallel lines 1/16" on both
sides of the centerline.

- 12 -

❏ 4. Align the rudder plate over the plan and mark

the “rib” locations on both sides of the rudder plate.
(See the photo in step 5).

❏ 5. Glue the rudder plate, centered, on the

rudder LE. Make sure the rudder plate is
perpendicular to the rudder LE.

❏ 6. Glue the two shaped 1/2" balsa rudder tips

and the two shaped 3/4" balsa rudder bases to
both sides of the rudder plate.

❏ 7. Cut “ribs” from the 1/8" x 5/8" x 30" balsa

sticks. Glue the ribs to the rudder at the previously
marked rib locations.

❏ 8. Refer to the photos and the cross section on

the plan to obtain the shape of the rudder. Use a
razor plane and sanding bar to “rough in” the
shape of the rudder. Final shaping will be done
after the rudder is attached to the fuse. Tape the
rudder to the fin and shape the rudder and fin tips.

❏ 9. From the 3/4" x 3/4" x 30" balsa stick, cut

3/4" long hinge point backups. Glue the backups in
position as shown on the plan and sand them flush
with the ribs.

❏ 10. If you want to modify the rudder for the

scale balance tab, now is the time to add the
appropriate structure. We made our balance tab
from leftover 3/32" balsa sheeting and leftover 1/8"
balsa from the die sheets.

BUILD THE WING

NOTE: The wing panels are built “upside-down”

on the plan. The jig tabs are attached to what is, in
the end, the top of the wing.

IMPORTANT: Since it is standard to show the
top of the wing on the plan and the wing panels
are built upside-down, the left wing panel is built
over the right wing top view and vice-versa. This
does not present any problems. Just be sure to
build a left and right wing panel.

BUILD THE MAIN STRUCTURE

❏❏1. Place the wing plan on your building

surface and cover it with wax paper or Plan
Protector.

❏❏2. Hold the 3/8" x 1/2" x 42" basswood spars

over the wing plan. Cut the spars about 1/2" longer
than required.

- 13 -

❏ 3. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8"

plywood wing ribs W-5 between the lazer-cut 1/8"
birch ply rib doublers W-5W and W-5Z. Use
30-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood
wing ribs W-4 between the lazer-cut 1/8" birch ply
rib doublers W-4W and W-4Z. Take extra care to
not get epoxy in the slots for the main spars and
the retract rails.

IMPORTANT: Be sure to make a left and right
rib assembly.

❏❏4. Glue a die-cut 1/4" balsa aft aileron TE

(A) centered on a die-cut 1/4" balsa forward

aileron TE (F). Use a sanding bar to taper the

two pieces slightly as shown in the wing
cross-section drawing on the plan. These pieces
are die-cut slightly long to allow you to trim off
any imperfections.

❏❏5. Pin a 3/8" x 1/2" x 42" basswood main

spar to the building surface using the

cross-pinning technique shown in the sketch. Allow
the main spar to overhang the plan at the root end.

❏❏6. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa ribs W-2, W-3

and W-6 through W-12 to the main spar. These
should be perpendicular to the building surface
and aligned over their appropriate locations. Pin
the jig tabs located at the aft end of the ribs to the
building surface.

❏❏7. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the

pre-assembled ribs W-4 and W-5 to the main spar.
Make sure the W-4W and W-5W face each other.

❏❏8. Glue the aileron wing TE assembly to the

aft edge of ribs W-8 through W-12. The upward
facing edges of the ribs and the TE assembly
should be flush. Make sure the jig tabs on the ribs
are touching the building surface.

NOTE: The inboard end of the aileron TE extends
approximately 1-1/8" inboard of rib W-8.

- 14 -

❏❏9. Glue the lower 1/4" x 1/4" x 30" balsa TE

spar as far forward as possible in the slots in ribs

W-2 through W-8.

❏❏10. Glue the lower 1/4" x 1/4" x 30" balsa

flap LE into the aft portion of the slots in ribs W-2
through W-7, extending to but not glued to the
aileron wing TE. There should be a 1/16" gap
between the TE spar and the flap LE.

❏❏11. Repeat steps 9 and 10 for the slot in the

upper side of the ribs.

❏❏12. Check the fit of the upper main spar in

the wing ribs. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the main
spar to ribs W-4 and W-5. Use CA to glue it to the
remaining ribs.

❏❏13. Use a razor saw to put a V-notch in the

shaped balsa leading edge to allow it to “bend” at
W-4. Use the LE detail drawing on the wing plan
for reference.

❏❏14. Glue the shaped LE centered vertically

on the front edge of the ribs.

❏❏15. Cut a 17" long piece from four of the

3/32" x 3" x 24" balsa sheets. The 17" long sheet
will be used as the aileron skins. The remaining 7"
sheets are used to make shear webs to fit on the
front of the main spar from rib W-3 to W-9 and the
back of the main spar from W-3 to W-12. The grain
of the shear webs run perpendicular to the spars
and the shear webs must be glued securely to the
spars. Make the remaining shear webs from the
3/32" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets.

- 15 -

❏❏16. Sight down the wing TE to make sure it

is still straight. Shim any low jig tabs if required.
From the 3/32" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets, make aft
shear webs to fit on the front of the TE spars from
rib W-2 to W-8. The shear webs must be glued
securely to the TE spars.

❏❏17. From the 1/4" x 1/2" x 32" basswood,

make hatch blocks to fit in the notches from ribs
W-2 to W-3 and W-8 to W- 9. Use 6-minute epoxy
to glue the hatch blocks to the ribs.

❏❏18. Use the die-cut 1/8" plywood 93Þ tool (93)

as shown to mark the ends of the spars and TE’s.

NOTE: When marking the spars, the corner of the
tool is on the wing centerline. When marking the
TE spars and flap LE’s, the corner of the tool is
positioned where the TE spars end on the plan.

❏❏19. Glue together two of the die-cut 1/8"

plywood flap horn bases (FH). Glue the flap horn
base in place between ribs W-2 and W-3. The
base should be flush with the upward facing edge
of the ribs and flap LE.

❏❏20. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa flap root rib

(FL1) flush to the flap LE and flap horn base.

❏❏21. Cut a spacer from the leftover 3/32" and

1/16" die sheets. Place the spacers between the
flap root rib (FL1) and the die-cut 1/8" balsa flap
root rib (FL2). Glue the flap root rib (FL2) to the
flap LE making sure that the upward facing edge of
FL2 is flush with the upward facing edges of FL1
and rib W-2. Glue a piece of leftover balsa
between rib W-2 and FL2. This will keep FL2
properly spaced from rib W-2.

- 16 -

❏❏22. Cut eleven 1-1/4" long pieces from the

3/4" x 3/4" x 30" balsa stick to make hinge point
backups. Glue the backups at the flap and aileron

locations shown on the plan and sand them flush
with the edges of the ribs.

❏❏23. Cut the 1/4" x 1/2" x 12" maple stick to

make the retract rails. Test fit the rails in the slots
in W-4 and W-5. The edge of the W-5 rail should
be flush with the side of rib W-5Z. Test fit the
retract in the wing and trim the ribs and rails as

needed. The rails will need to be glued into the
slots in the ribs at a slight angle so that the retract
mounting flanges sit flat. You will need to trim the
ribs appropriately.

❏❏24. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the rails

into the slots. Wipe off any excess epoxy that may
squeeze out under the retract rails. Place the
retracts on the rails so that the rails are glued in at
the correct angle. Allow the epoxy to cure before
removing the wing panel from the building surface.

❏❏25. From the 1/4" x 1/4" x 6" hardwood stick

make retract rail doublers. The doublers fit under
the retract rail in rib W-4 between the hole for the
air cylinder.

NOTE: Try to store your wing panel on a flat
surface with some weights on top of it until the
wing panels are joined and sheeted, to prevent
warping.

Repeat steps 1 through 25 to build the other
wing panel.

A. Cut a piece of paper slightly longer than the

length needed to reach from the aileron servo
bay to the wing root.

B. Roll the paper into a tube slightly smaller than
the holes in the wing ribs. Use a couple of
pieces of tape to hold the tube together.

C. Insert the tube into the holes in the ribs. Tack
glue the tube to the ribs with CA.

HOW TO MAKE SERVO LEAD TUBES

When the aileron servos are mounted out in the
wing, it can be difficult to run the servo wires
through the ribs to the wing root. An easy
solution is to make servo wire tubes.

- 17 -

JOIN THE WING PANELS

❏ 1. Trim and sand the ends of the spars, LE’s and

TE’s of both wing panels flush with the tip rib W-12.
Excess overhang will affect the dihedral angle.

❏ 2. Draw a centerline on both W-2 ribs.

❏ 3. Trim all the spars at the wing root as they

were previously marked with the 93Þ tool.

❏ 4. Trim off all the jig tabs except those on W-2

and W-12. Use a small sanding block to “clean up”
the area around the tabs. Also, sand all hinge point
backups flush with the wing ribs.

❏ 5. Place the two 3/8" x 2" x 10" balsa dihedral

jig blocks under the two W-2 ribs. Place the wing

halves together upside-down. The spars at W-2
and the W-2 jig tabs should rest on the jig blocks.
The tip ends of the spars and the W-12 jig tabs
should rest on the building surface. ( See the
following photo).

❏ 6. Test fit the wing panels on the jig blocks with

the two die-cut 1/8" birch plywood dihedral
braces in place. Insert the die-cut 1/8" birch

plywood aft cross brace (CB) between the W-2
ribs. Adjust the parts until the panels meet at the
spars. If the aft cross brace requires trimming,
remove equal amounts from both ends.

❏ 7. Make two equal length sticks from leftover

balsa to act as spacers between the two W-2 ribs.
These should be positioned on the W-2 centerline.
The length of these sticks will vary slightly,
depending on how your spars are trimmed, but
7-1/4" is a good starting point (see the following
photo). These two sticks will make sure the W-2
ribs are parallel.

❏ 8. Test fit the aft cross brace and the sticks

between the two W-2 ribs and adjust both sticks
equally if adjustment is required. You may notice
that the spars sweep forward slightly. This is normal.

❏ 9. When the wing fits on the jig blocks with the

aft cross brace (CB) and the two equal length
sticks in place, it is time to glue the wing panels
together. Coat the mating surfaces of the spars
and dihedral braces with 30-minute epoxy.
Assemble the wing on the jig blocks. Use CA to
tack glue the two equal length sticks into place.
Apply 30-minute epoxy on the ends of the aft cross
brace and insert into position. Use masking tape or
adjustable clamps to hold the assembly together.

❏ 10. Glue 3/32" balsa shear webs to the dihedral

braces between ribs W-2 and W-3.

❏ 11. Align and glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood

radiator frames RC-1 to the die-cut plywood sub
frames RC-2. Be sure to make a left and right

❏ 12. Insert the die-cut 1/8" plywood center tray

between the two RC-2’s. Make sure the front
edges are aligned. Use a 90Þ triangle to hold each
RC assembly vertical while you glue it to the
center tray.

- 18 -