Top Flite A0310 INSTRUCTION BOOK

WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does

not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite‘s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves
the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed
nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all
resulting liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in new and

unused condition to the place of purchase.

Top Flite Models P.O. Box 788 Urbana, Il 61803 Technical Assistance Call [phone] [e-mail]

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

STNGP03 V1.0

Entire Contents © Copyright 1999

Wingspan: 100.5" [2553mm]
Wing Area: 1487 sq. in. [95.9 sq. dm]
Weight: 16 - 25 Lbs. [7258 - 11340g]
Wing Loading: 24.8 - 38.7 oz./sq. ft.

[75.7 - 118.1 g/sq. dm]

Fuselage Length: 67.8 in. [1722mm]

ADE IN

SA

TABLE OF CONTENTS

PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Flaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Hinges & Pull-Pull System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Cockpit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Covering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

COMPETITION-MINDED MODELERS . . . . . . . .4

Scale documentation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

DESIGNER'S NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

BUILDING SUPPLIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Adhesives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . .7

DIE-CUT PATTERNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 & 9

METRIC CONVERSIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

GET READY TO BUILD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Build the stabilizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Build the elevators . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Hinge the elevators . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Build the fin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Build the rudder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

BUILD THE WING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Preliminary assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Frame the panel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Build the aileron . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Build the flap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Mount the wing servos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Hook up the controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

BUILD THE FUSELAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Build the formers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Build the bottom of the fuse . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Add the tops of the formers . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Add the stab saddles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Build the front of the fuse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Mount the landing gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

FINAL CONSTRUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Mount the engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Mount the stab and fin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Mount the wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Mount the servos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Sheet the bottom of the fuselage . . . . . . . . . .39

Sheet the top of the fuselage . . . . . . . . . . . . .40

Make the windows and doors . . . . . . . . . . . .40

Build the landing gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

Mount the cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43

Finish the front cabin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

Make the pushrod exit covers . . . . . . . . . . . .48

Assemble the wheel pants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

Mount the stab struts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49

Mount the landing gear fairings & wing struts .49

Prepare the model for covering . . . . . . . . . . .51

Balance the airplane laterally . . . . . . . . . . . . .51

FINISHING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51

Painting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51

Covering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51

Final assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52

GET YOUR MODEL READY TO FLY . . . . . . . .53

Balance your model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53

Final hookups and checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53

Control surface throws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53

PREFLIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54

Identify your model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54

Charge your batteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54

Balance your propellers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54

Find a safe place to fly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54

Ground check your model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54

Range check your radio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54

Check list . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . .55

AMA SAFETY CODE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55

FLYING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .back cover

Takeoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .back cover

Flight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .back cover

Landing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .back cover

Your Stinson is not a toy, but a sophisticated working
model that functions very much like an actual
airplane. Because of its realistic performance, if you
do not assemble and operate your Stinson correctly,
you could possibly injure yourself or spectators and
damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience totally
enjoyable, get assistance with assembly and
your first flights from an experienced,
knowledgeable modeler. You’ll learn faster and

avoid risking your model before you’re truly ready to
solo. Your local hobby shop has information about
flying clubs in your area whose membership includes
qualified instructors.

You can also contact the Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,500
chartered clubs across the countr y. We recommend
you join the AMA which will insure you at AMA club
sites and events. AMA Membership is required at
chartered club fields where qualified flight instructors
are available.

Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

[phone]

Fax [phone]

or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

PROTECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF & OTHERS

FOLLOW THESE IMPORTANT

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you

with a top quality kit and great instructions, but
ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished
model depends on how you build it;therefore, we
cannot in any way guarantee the performance of
your completed model, and no representations
are expressed or implied as to the performance or
safety of your completed model.

- 2 -

1. You must build the plane according to the plan and
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as
doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In

a few cases the plan and instructions may differ
slightly from the photos. In those instances the
plan and written instructions are correct.

2. Y ou must tak e time to buildstraight, true and strong.

3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first
class condition, the correct sized engine and correct
components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout
your building process.

4. You must properly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates properly on
the ground and in the air.

5. You must test the operation of the model before
every flight to insure that all equipment is operating
and you must make certain that the model has
remained structurally sound.

6. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot,
you must fly the model only with the help of a
competent, experienced R/C pilot.

Please inspect all parts carefully before you start
to build! If any parts are missing, broken or
defective, or if you have any questions about
building or flying this model, please call us at:

[phone] or e-mail us at

[e-mail]

We’ll be glad to help. If you are calling for
replacement parts, please look up the part
numbers and the kit identification number
(stamped on the end of the carton) and have
them ready when you call.

Remember: Take your time and follow
instructions to end up with a well-built model
that is straight and true.

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Top
Flite

Gold Edition

Stinson SR-9. Due to the large
quantity of details and accessories on the full size
subject (cowl blisters, windows & doors, step ladder,
landing gear covers, etc.), the Stinson makes an ideal
project for experienced scale modelers. However, due
to the familiar building techniques and all wood
construction, this

Gold Edition

kit is also an ideal
project for moderately experienced builders who have
not yet ventured into the realm of scale craftsmanship.
Those who wish to go all out can even cover their
“Reliant” with a fabric and paint system and add rib
stitching. That’s the beauty of this Gold Edition kit—
since we’ve done all the engineering you’ll end up with
an impressively detailed scale model.Another benefit of
choosing the Stinson as a scale subject is its relaxing
flight characteristics.The Stinson’ s large, high wing and
long tail moment yield an “honest” craft that instills
confidence. Working flaps are the icing on the cake!
This is one bird among your squadron that is sure to
make many appearances at your local flying field.

Though the Stinson requires a little more skill to build
than some of the other models in the Gold Edition
lineup, complete instructions (right down to the
airfoiled landing gear covers and opening doors)
leave little or nothing up to the imagination. Highly
experienced scale builders may venture off in areas
of scale detail and apply their own techniques, but
should refrain from making modifications to the main
structure. Less experienced modelers need only to
follow the instructions while building such details.

One last note before you continue: We highly
recommend that you get photos or a book about the
Stinson Reliant, or send for a documentation package
as soon as possible (see Scale Documentation on
page 4). This way, you can study the drawings and
photos while you’re building to get a feel for how your
SR-9 should look when you’ re done.This will also help
you figure out what scale details to add and decide on
a trim scheme (you can also dream about how cool
your SR-9 is going to look when it’s done!).

ENGINE

Recommended engine size:

1.08 to 1.99 cu. in. [17.7 to 32.6cc] 2-stroke

1.2 to 1.6 cu. in. [19.7 to 26.2cc] 4-stroke
25 to 35cc ignition

The Top Flite Gold Edition Stinson will perform well
with any of the engines within the recommended
range, but you m ust base y our engine selection upon
how much your finished model will weigh. This is
greatly determined by the level of scale detail you
plan to achieve and the method of covering. Refer to
the

Designer’s Notes

section for further details on

engine selection.
We highly recommend the O.S.®FT-160 Twin

Cylinder glow engine featured in the instructions. It
has ample power for even a 22 lb. model with scale
appearance and sound!

FLAPS (Optional)

Your SR-9 is designed to incor porate working flaps;
however, flaps are optional and not required for an
excellent flying experience.Without flaps, the takeoff
roll is a bit longer and the landing speed is a bit
faster. If you do not wish to build working flaps,
simply glue them into position.You can wait until you
are well into wing construction until deciding whether
or not to build working flaps. For flaps, you will need
these additional items:

Hinges of your choice
Two servos
Y-connector
Servo extension cords (if the Y-connector is
not long enough)

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

- 3 -

HINGES & PULL-PULL SYSTEM

Due to the variety of hinges available, and the
preferences some modelers have for certain types,
this kit does not include hinges. Our preference is
Robart®#310 Super Hinge Points (24 required,
ROBQ2510), but other hinges may be used as long
as they are suitable for giant-scale use.

Similarly , a pull-pull cab le system for rudder control is
not supplied with the kit. We used the Sullivan No.
520 Pull-Pull Cable Kit, but other systems will work,
provided they are suitable for use in giant models.

COCKPIT

Since the Top Flite Stinson features scale opening
doors, a complete scale cockpit interior is virtually a
“must.” While you could just “black out” the cabin with
fuel proof paint, a highly detailed scale interior is easy
to achieve with Top Flite’s Stinson Reliant Scale
Interior Kit (TOPQ8409).The kit features front and rear
seats, a laser-cut wood instrument panel and other
accessories.The interior may be installed at any time,
but will be easier to fit during fuse construction.

COVERING

Of the many different types of model airplane
coverings available, a “fabric” type of covering is
most preferable due to its scale appearance. The
prototype on the box was covered with 21st Century
Super Coverite, then primed and painted with Stits
paint. If you prefer not to use a covering which
requires painting, you could use 21st Century®Fabric
which is available in a wide variety of colors and
closely simulates painted cloth.

COMPETITION-MINDED MODELERS

The Top Flite Gold Edition Stinson SR-9 was
designed from scale three-view drawings supplied b y
Scale Model Research (address follows) and photos
of various full-size Stinsons. The scale of this kit is
1:5, or one-fifth scale.

If you plan to enter your SR-9 in scale competition
(it’s lots of fun, and the runways are usually paved!),
this kit qualifies for Fun Scale, Sportsman Scale and
Expert Scale. All the scale classes have the same
flight requirements in which you must perform ten
maneuvers, five of which are mandatory. The other
five are up to you—easy stuff like a slow, low
“inspection pass” with flaps extended, or maybe a
touch-and-go.If you have never competed in a scale
contest, you could start out in Fun Scale. In Fun
Scale, the only documentation you need for static
judging is any proof that a full-size aircraft of this
type, in the paint/markings scheme on your model,
did exist.A single photo, a kit bo x cov er from a plastic
model, or even a painting is sufficient proof! If you’re
interested, contact the AMA for a rule book that will
tell you everything you need to know. Look in the
back of the AMA magazine (Model Aviation) for a
schedule of events.

The trim scheme we selected for the prototype
featured on the kit box cover is a variation of a trim
scheme taken from an SR-9 produced in 1937, NC­17154—which was still flying when this was written.
If you are not concerned with a 100% accurate trim
scheme you can make a variation of the one on the
box, or design your own. If you plan to compete in
scale competition, use the photos in your
documentation package as a guide.

One last note for those interested in scale
competition: Strive to build your model to reflect your
documentation. Whatever lines and features appear
on the full-size plane should also appear on your
model. There seems to be much variation of the
Stinson restorations in existence, so refer to the
photos and documentation of the Stinson you are
using for your model.

SCALE DOCUMENTATION

Three-view drawings and photo pac ks of full size SR­9’s are available from:

Scale Model Research

3114 Yukon Ave, Costa Mesa, CA 92626

[phone]

Fax:[phone]

DESIGNER’S NOTES

For several years I’ve been hearing modelers say, “It’s time
for something different.”

Well,this is it - The Top Flite Stinson Reliant,Gold Edition, for
the scale craftsman. We have tried hard to design a
‘traditional’ stick model with Gold Edition engineering. This
model is a departure from what we normally do,so if you like
it, please let us know.

The Top Flite Stinson Reliant is a LARGE model that requires
strong craftsmanship and modeling skills. Be prepared for a
richly rewarding project that requires dedication to a
sometimes challenging project. Do not be intimidated by the
Gull Wing of the Reliant. The wing is relatively easy to build on
a flat building board with the included die-cut jigs. DO be mildly
intimidated by the traditional mostly stick-built fuselage.

The Top Flite Stinson Reliant is a sport scale model of the
model SR-9 Reliant, manufactured by Stinson in the late
1930’s. With some modifications, it can also be built as a

Your Top Flite Gold Edition Stinson Reliant is
intended for scale and general sport flying
including mild aerobatics such as chandelles
and stall turns. Its structure is designed to
withstand such stresses. If you intend to use
your Stinson for more rigorous types of flying
such as aggressive aerobatics or flying from
rough fields, it is your responsibility to reinforce
areas of the model that will be subjected to the
resulting unusually high stresses.

- 4 -

model SR-10. The most recognizable features of the aircraft
are the gull wing and the 18 blisters on the engine cowl for
the engine valve assemblies.

The gull wing at first looks difficult to build,but, it is actually
comparatively easy to build using the die-cut trailing edge
jigs. The most difficult part of the wing construction is the
extensive cap stripping needed to duplicate the fabric
covered appearance of the full-size aircraft. There are 132
feet of cap stripping material included in this kit, but you
won’t need all if it. You should end up with at least two feet
of scrap!

With its eighteen blisters, the cowl looks, and is,
intimidating! We like to call it our easy-to-build
20-piece cowl. It sure does look nice on the model though. If
you aren’t up to it, leave the blisters off and tell everyone
your model is the SR-10-2. The plans show where to modify
the top fuselage formers to the outline of the SR-10.

Speaking of the fuselage,it’s pretty much your typical stick­built structure. We have worked hard to engineer a structure
that is easier to build than most stick type structures and to
assure a straight, square structure. We have even die-cut
some of the sticks where precision is required (die-cut
sticks; now that’s unique). As the full-scale aircraft is very
big, so is this 1/5 scale model. Its very size makes it easier
to incorporate some impressive scale details. To gain access
to the wing hold-in bolts you must build at least one
functional door. Once you build one, the second won’t take
nearly as long.

Just keep one thing in mind as you build this model: “You
never finish a scale model; you eventually come to a point
where you stop working on it and fly.” While this is a
moderately difficult project, it is also richly rewarding.

SCALE ACCURACY

The Top Flite Stinson Reliant SR-9 is a faithful reproduction
of the full-size aircraft, with a few exceptions:

1. The horizontal stab/elevator area has been increased b y 9%
to improve pitch stability. To make the stab closer to scale,
move the stab leading edge 1/2" aft. Then re-contour the
ribs and stab tip.

2. The wing strut attaches directly to the side of the fuselage
to simplify construction. This is close to the location of the
SR-10 but is noticeably different than the SR-9. If desired,
you could move the mounting location to the scale
location.

3. The windscreen shown is for the SR-9. With some balsa
blocks you could make one that looks like the SR-10. This
is one area where your craftsmanship will allow you to
make the windscreen as scale-like as you desire.

This is one model that can be made very true
to scale.

POWER

DO NOT overpower this model. The power plant needed for
your model will largely depend on how you finish it and
whether you use a gas or glow engine. If you cover the model
with fabric and then paint it, you could easily add four or
more pounds to the finished weight of the model. A gas
engine will also add a pound or two. This model can easily
handle the weight, however, as it has a large wing area and
high-lift airfoil.

The weight of the model does affect the power required to fly
it, however. If you are careful to build the model as light as
possible and cover if with film instead of fabric, the flying
weight will be closer to 16 lbs. At this weight a strong 1.20­size four-stroke engine will be ample power. But if you build
heavy and cover the model with fabric and paint, the model
will weigh closer to 25 lbs.,requiring a more powerful engine.

Our prototype model was covered with Super Coverite Fabric
and then painted with the Stits paint system. It was detailed
with pinking tape, rib stitching and other detailing. It had a
flying weight of 23 lbs. and was powered by an O.S. FT-160
twin-cylinder engine. This proved to be a near perfect
combination. The engine produced a static thrust of 13 lbs.,
8 oz. with a Zinger 18 x 6-10 prop. A strong 1.20-size engine,
such as the O.S. FS-120 III or the YS-120 NC,will produce a
static thrust of 13 lbs. on a 16 x 6-10 prop. This would be
ample thrust for a model that weighs less than 20 lbs.

You should also bare in mind that this is a high-drag aircraft.
Weight is not the only factor you need to consider when
selecting an engine. Normally, a 1.20-size engine would be
adequate power for a 16 lb. model - and is for the Stinson as
well. But,due to the higher drag of the Stinson,a tired 1.20 size
engine will not give the performance you would expect during
slow speed maneuvers,such as a go-around during a landing.
That is why we recommend only powerful 1.20 engines.

It is important that you do not overpower this model as well.
This is a fabric-covered aircraft which means the tail surfaces
and wings will not have the rigidity you are used to with other
models. Too much power will result in higher airspeeds,which
could cause flutter. While a 35cc gas engine is within the
recommended power range,a high performance,powerful 3W
type of engine should not be used. Our 23 lb prototype model
flew in a convincing, scale like manner on an OS FT-160
engine producing 13 lbs., 8 oz of thrust.

If you do install an engine at the upper end of the power
range,you should sheet the tail surfaces with 1/16" balsa to
increase their rigidity.

If you cover the model with fabric and paint,be careful not to
allow excess weight to accumulate by applying too much
filler and paint. This is a large model and paint can quickly
increase its weight if not properly applied.

WHAT’S INCLUDED IN THE KIT

This is a very complete kit for a model of its size and type.
However, there are a few items that are not included. We
have not included an engine mount and mounting hardware
because of the wide variety and type of engines that could
be used on this model. We do not feel it fair to increase the
cost of the kit by including a mount that most modelers
won’t use anyway. Similarly, we have not included control
surface hinges or the rudder pull-pull linkage system. It has
been our experience that many modelers building this type
of kit are likely to have strong preferences for these
components. (If you have no preference, we recommend
Robart #310 Super Hinge Points (24 total) (2-ROBQ2510) and
the Sullivan No. 520 steel Pull-Pull Cable Kit.)

- 5 -

FLIGHT CHARACTERISTICS

Our prototype model had no bad habits or other areas to be
concerned about. Its ground handling was excellent for a tail
dragger and it was easy to takeoff and land from a grass
field. It showed little tendency to ground loop, even on a
smooth hard surface runway. It has a thick airfoil, and its
fuselage cross section is large,so the model has a great deal
of drag. This limits the top speed of the model and allows it
to slow quickly for landing. With full flaps, steep approaches
can be accomplished, just as in the full-scale aircraft.
Because of the high drag, be prepared to carry more power
for landing than you are accustomed to with other models.

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED

These are additional items you will need to complete
your Stinson that are not included with your kit.Order
numbers are in parentheses (GPMQ4130). Our
exclusive brand is listed where possible: TOP is the
Top Flite®brand, GPM is the Great Planes®brand,
and HCA is the Hobbico®brand.

❏ 4 to 5 Channel radio with 5 high-torque servos

for ailerons, elevator and rudder, and standard
servos for flaps (2) and throttle (1)

❏ Y-connectors for aileron, elevator and flap servos
❏ (2) 24" Servo extensions for aileron servos
❏ (4) 24" Servo extensions for battery, rudder,

elevator servos (for gasolineengine installation, in
which these components are installed in the tail)

❏ Pull-Pull cable kit for rudder steering (SULQ3120)
❏ (2) 5" Main Wheels (DUBQ0800)
❏ 2" Tail wheel (DUBQ0755)
❏ 16 oz. Fuel tank (GPMQ4107) (for glow engines)
❏ Silicone fuel tubing (GPMQ4131) (for glow engines)
❏ 24 oz. Fuel tank (GPMQ4112) (for gas engines)
❏ Gasoline fuel tubing (for gas engines)
❏ Fuel filler valve (GPMQ4160) (for glow engine)
❏ 1/2" (HCAQ1050) or 1/4" (HCAQ1000) R/C

Foam rubber padding

❏ 1/5 Scale replica radial engine (TOPQ7903)
❏ Covering
❏ Paint
❏ Large capacity Rx battery pack suitable for giant

scale models

BUILDING SUPPLIES

Here’s a list of supplies you should have on hand
while you’re building. Some of these are optional.
Use your own experience to decide what you need.
We recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy.

ADHESIVES

❏ 4 oz. Thin CA (GPMR6004)
❏ 4 oz. Medium CA+ (GPMR6010)
❏ 2 oz. Thick CA- (GPMR6015)
❏ CA Accelerator (GPMR6035)
❏ CA Debonder (GMPR6039)
❏ CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
❏ 30-minute Epoxy (GPMR6047)

or

45-minute Epoxy (GPMR6048)

❏ 6-minute Epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ Pro Wood Glue (GPMR6161)
❏ Microballoons (TOPR1090)
❏ Milled Fiberglass (GPMR6165)
❏ Lightweight Hobby Filler (Balsa Color,

HCAR3401)

❏ Auto body filler (Bondo

®

or similar)

❏ Isopropyl Alcohol (to clean up excess epoxy)

TOOLS

❏ #11 Blades (HCAR0311, 100 qty.)
❏ Single-Edge Razor Blades (HCAR0312, 100 qty.)
❏ Razor Plane (MASR1510)
❏ Hobbico Builder’s Triangle (HCAR0480)
❏ T-Pins (HCAR5100 (S), HCAR5150 (M),

HCAR5200 (L)

❏ Drill Bits: 1/16", #48 (or 5/64"), 3/32", #36 (or

7/64") and 6-32 tap, 1/8", 9/64" (or 5/32"), 5/32",
7/32", 1/4"

❏ Curved-Tip Scissors (HCAR0667)

❏ Long handle 7/64" ball end hex wrench

(GPMR8003)

❏ Silver Solder w/flux (GPMR8070)
❏ Great Planes Plan Protector (GPMR6167) or

wax paper

❏ Masking Tape
❏ Easy–Touch

™

Bar Sanders

❏ Dremel

®

#178 cutting bit (for countersinking

screws in the servo hatch covers)

Note: In several instances the manual suggests
using brass tubing sharpened on one end to cut
accurate, clean holes in balsa.Use a rotar y tool with
a cut-off wheel to sharpen the outside edge of the
tube, and a hobby knif e to sharpen the inside edge of
the tube. The sizes of tubing used are 3/16", 7/32"
and 3/8".

RECOMMENDED COVERING

TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES

❏ Top Flite Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
❏ Top Flite Trim Seal Tool (TOPR2200)

-and-

❏ Top Flite Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
❏ Top Flite Hot Sock (TOPR2175)

-or-

❏ 21st Century Sealing Iron (COVR2700)
❏ 21st Century Cover Sock (COVR2702)

- 6 -

EASY-TOUCH BAR SANDER

A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a necessity
for building a well finished model.Great Planes makes a
complete range of patented Easy-Touch Bar Sanders
and replaceable Easy-Touch Adhesive-backed
Sandpaper. While building the Stinson we used two
5-1/2" Bar Sanders and two 11" Bar Sanders equipped
with 80-grit and 150-grit Adhesive-backed Sandpaper.

Here’s the complete list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders
and Adhesive Backed Sandpaper:

5-1/2" Bar Sander (GPMR6169)
11" Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172)
33" Bar Sander (GPMR6174)
44" Bar Sander (GPMR6176)
11" Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190)

12’ roll of Adhesive-backed sandpaper

80-grit (GPMR6180)
150-grit (GPMR6183)
180-grit (GPMR6184)
220-grit (GPMR6185)

Assortment pack of 5-1/2" strips (GPMR6189)

We also use Top Flite 320-grit (TOPR8030, 4 sheets)
and 400-grit (TOPR8032, 4 sheets) wet-or-dry
sandpaper for finish sanding.

There are two types of screws used in this kit:
Sheet metal screws are designated by a number

and a length.

For example #6 x 3/4" [1.91mm]

Machine screws are designated by a number,
threads per inch, and a length.

For example 4-40 x 3/4" [1.91mm]

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

•

When you see the term

test fit

in the instructions,
it means that you should first position the part on
the assembly without using any glue, then
slightly modify or

custom fit

the part as necessar y

for the best fit.

•

Whenever the term

glue

is used you should rely
upon your experience to decide what type of glue
to use. When a specific type of adhesive works
best for that step we will tell you what type of glue
to use.

•

Whenever just

epoxy

is specified you may use

either

30-minute epoxy or6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly
recommended that you use only 30-minute (or
45-minute) epoxy because you will need the
working time and/or the additional strength.

•

Occasionally we refer to the

top

or

bottom

of the

model or upor

down

. To avoid confusion, the

top

or

bottom

of the model is as it would be when the
airplane is right side up and will be referred to as
the top even if the model is upside-down during
that step,

i.e.

the top main spar is always the top

main spar even if the wing is upside-down when
you are working on it. Similar ly,

move the former

up

means move the former toward the top of the
fuselage even if the fuselage is upside-do wn when
you are working on it.

•

When you get to each step, read that step
completely through to the end before you begin.
Frequently there is important information or a note
at the end of the step that you need to know before
you start.

•

Photos and sketches are placed before the step
they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in
following steps to get another view of the same parts.

•

Note that there are four plan sheets.Two of them
must be cut along the dashed lines and joined with
tape.The other two plans are used separately.

(Continued on page 10)

- 7 -

- 8 -

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

- 9 -

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

Deg = degrees Elev = elevator

Fuse = fuselage " = inches

LE = leading edge Ply = plywood

Stab = stabilizer TE = trailing edge

LG = landing gear mm = millimeters

TYPES OF WOOD

BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD

GET READY TO BUILD

1.Unroll the plan sheets.Roll them inside out so they lie
flat. Cut the two fuselage plan sheets where indicated
along the dashed lines and join them with tape.

2. Remove all the parts from the box.Use a ballpoint
pen (not a felt tip pen) to lightly write the name or
size on each piece so you can identify it later. Use
the

die-cut patterns

on page 8 & 9 to identify and
mark the die-cut parts before you remove them from
their die sheets. Many of the parts already have
numbers stamped on them, but in some cases the
numbers are located alongside the parts or only on
the die drawings in the manual.You may remove all
the die-cut parts from their die sheets now or wait
until you need them. If a par t is difficult to remove,
don’t force it out but cut around it with a hobby knife
and a #11 blade. After you remove the parts from
their die sheets, lightly sand the edges to remove
slivers or die-cutting irregularities. Save some of the
larger scraps of wood.

3. Separate the parts into groups such as stab, fin,
wing, and fuse. Store smaller parts in zipper-top
food storage bags.

1/64" = .4mm
1/32" = .8mm
1/16" = 1.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm

1/8" = 3.2mm
5/32" = 4mm
3/16" = 4.8mm

1/4" = 6.4mm

3/8" = 9.5mm

1/2" = 12.7mm

5/8" = 15.9mm

3/4" = 19mm

1" = 25.4mm
2" = 50.8mm
3" = 76.2mm

6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm
15" = 381mm
18" = 457.2mm
21" = 533.4mm
24" = 609.6mm
30" = 762mm
36" = 914.4mm

METRIC CONVERSION

1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor)

- 10 -

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES

Build the stabilizer

❏ 1. Place the stab plan over your building board

(you may cut it from the fuse plan) and cover it with
Great Planes Plan Protector or waxed paper.

❏ 2.Without using any glue, position the die-cut 1/8"

balsa stab spar on the die-cut 1/8" balsa stab TE.
Note that the stab spar is centered height-wise on
the stab TE to accommodate the cap strips and is
centered lengthwise to accommodate rib S7 at both
tips. Glue the stab spar to the stab TE as described.
From now on, this assembly will be referred to as the
stab TE.

❏ 3.Make the 1/4" stab TE brace by gluing together

both die-cut 1/8" balsa stab TE braces so the
notches align.

❏ 4.Glue the stab TE brace to the stab TE.Note that

the notches in the stab TE brace are opposite the
notches in the stab TE.

Now that the preliminary stuff is done, let’s start
framing this baby up!

❏ 5. Without using any glue, insert the die-cut 3/32"

balsa stab ribs S1 - S6 into the notches of the stab
TE. Position the assembly over the plan. Do not
install S1A at this time.

❏ 6. Cut rib jigs from four 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" balsa

sticks.The r ib jigs extend from the forward jig tabs to
the aft jig tabs on all the ribs. Use the rib jigs and T­pins to hold the ribs over their location on the plan.
After all the ribs are in position, use a small square
to align the TE over the plan.

❏ 7. Use thin CA to glue the ribs to the TE. As you

proceed, be certain the jig tabs of all the ribs are
contacting the plan.

❏ 8. Test fit both die-cut 3/32" balsa ribs S1A and

the die-cut 1/8" balsa stab LE brace to the
assembly. Make adjustments where required for a
good fit, then glue the pieces into position.

❏ 9. Use a hobby knife or a bar sander to bevel the

leading edge of the ribs to match the aft sweeping

Some modelers prefer to vent the air that gets
trapped inside the control surfaces (stab, elevators,
fin, rudder, ailerons, flaps) while covering. Trapped
air expands and prevents the covering from fully
shrinking. To avoid this, drill or cut holes in the ribs
before you begin building. Later, drill a hole in an
inconspicuous spot near the tip of the leading edge
of the control surfaces and in the trailing edge of the
stab and fin.This is most important on smaller parts
like the elevators and rudder

(though they’re not so

small on this model!)

.

- 11 -

angle of the LE. Cut two shaped 15" balsa stab LE’s
to match the plan, then glue them centered, as
shown in the sketch, to the fronts of the ribs and the
LE brace.

❏ 10. Cut the stab cross-bracing as shown on the

plan from two 3/16" x 3/16" x 36" balsa sticks.Glue
the bracing into position (you may have to
reposition some of your T-pins if they interfere with
the cross-bracing).

❏ 11. Glue together the three die-cut 1/8" balsa stab

tip LE’s to make a stab tip LE. The larger piece is
“sandwiched” between the two smaller pieces. Build
the left stab tip using the stab tip LE you just made,
the die-cut 1/8" balsa stab tip gussets, the die-cut
3/32" balsa stab rib S7 and an additional 3/16" x
3/16" cross-brace.Trim the TE even with tip rib S7.

❏ 12. Build the right stab tip the same way.
❏ 13. Cut ten 1" long stab hinge blocks from a 1/4"

x 7/16" x 24" balsa stick, then glue them to the stab
TE where shown on the plan. The hinge blocks
should be vertically centered on the TE.

❏ 14. Sheet the top of the center section across ribs

S1A with a 1/16" x 3" x 24" balsa sheet.
Important: If you are using a large engine, sheet the
entire stab with 1/16" balsa (not included).

❏ 15. Of the 1/16" x 1/4" x 36" balsa sticks supplied

with this kit, select four of the harder sticks.Use two
of the sticks you selected to make the cap strips
extending from the LE to the TE on ribs S2 to S6 on

both sides of the stab. Glue the cap str ips to the top
of the ribs. Carefully and lightly sand the LE and TE,
blending them to the cap strips, but do not round the
LE until instructed to do so.

❏ 16. Remove the stab from your building board.

Save the rib jigs for use on the fin.

❏ 17. Use a hobby knife to carefully trim the jig tabs

from the bottom of the stab ribs. Follow up with a bar
sander to make a smooth transition as though the jig
tabs never were there.
Note: If you are sheeting the entire stab, perform
step 19 before step 18.

❏ 18. Sheet the bottom of the center section using

the remainder of the 1/16" sheeting you used for the
top (

aren’t you glad you’ve already cut them?

). Make
the cap strips for the bottom of the ribs using the two
remaining harder 1/16" x 1/4" x 36" balsa sticks you
set aside earlier and glue them into position. Sand
the bottom of the stab to blend the LE and TE to the
cap strips and the sheeting.

❏ 19. Drill a 9/64" (or 5/32") hole through both die-

cut 1/8" plywood strut mount plates. Glue a 4-40
blind nut in both plates.Trim the cap strips between
ribs S4 and S5 to accommodate the plates, then glue
them to the bottom of the stab between the ribs as
shown. Fill the space between the aft edge of the
mount plate and the TE with leftover balsa.

- 12 -

Build the elevators

❏

1. Make both elevator cores by gluing together
the two die-cut 3/32" balsa pieces as shown in the
photo and on the plan.

❏ 2. Make two 1/4" elevator leading edges by

gluing together two sets of die-cut 1/8" balsa
elevator leading edges (ELE). Lightly sand the
edges to align them and to remove excess glue.

❏ 3. Use a ballpoint pen and a straightedge to mark

a centerline on both elevator LE’s. Use T-pins to hold
the straightedge on center while you mark the line.
Using the centerline as a guide, mark an additional
guideline close to the centerline (3/64" from the

centerline to be exact) to make certain the elevator
core will remain true and on center when it’s time to
glue it to the elevator LE.

Build the left elevator first.

❏❏4. Glue one of the elevator cores to one of the

elevator LE’s using the guidelines you drew to keep
the core on center and straight. Use a small square
to hold the core perpendicular to the LE as you
proceed. Note that the LE extends beyond the root
end of the core by 1/8".

❏❏5. Glue the die-cut 3/32" balsa elevator tip

core to the elevator LE. Hint: Place both cores on

pieces of 1/2" balsa or something similar to assure
correct alignment.Trim the tip of the ele v ator LE e v en
with the tip core and elevator core.

❏❏6. Glue two die-cut 3/32" balsa elevator S7A

ribs together.Refer to the following photo, then clamp
the glued-together ribs to S7 on the end of the stab
with a 1/16" spacer in between. Use your bar sander
to sand the end of the ribs even with the trailing
edge.Leave the ribs temporarily clamped to the stab
until instructed to remove the clamps.

Note: The following steps are intended to assure
accurate alignment of the elevator, the elevator tip
and the stab. When the elevator is neutral or
centered, the elevator tip must also be centered to
align with the stab—especially at the leading edge
where even a slight misalignment will be easily seen.
Keep this in mind while you proceed.

❏❏7.Tempor arily, but securely pin the ele v ator LE

to the stab TE and S7 ribs to the stab. Be certain
the elevator core and elevator tip core are centered
and neutral, then glue the elevator tip core to the
S7A tip ribs.

❏❏8. Remove the clamps. Use a bar sander to

carefully sand the elevator LE and elevator tip ribs to
match the stab.

- 13 -

Use this photo and the sketch below for the

following four steps.

❏❏9. Use 3/32" x 5/8" x 24" balsa sticks to make

the elevator ribs that align with stab ribs 2, 3, 4, 5
and 6 for both sides of the elevator. Notice that the
ribs should be 1/16" below the elevator LE and taper
to a point at the TE to accommodate the cap strips.
Glue the ribs to the elevator.

❏❏10. Cut the cap strips for both sides of the

elevator ribs from a 1/16" x 1/4" x 36" balsa stick and
glue them in place. Sand the ends of the cap strips
even with the elevator core.

❏❏11. Of the remaining 1/16" x 1/4" x 36" sticks

supplied, select four of the softest sticks for the
elevator edging. Glue one of the sticks to the edge
of the elevator as shown on the plan. This is easily
done if you begin at the tip (at ribs S7A), use thin CA
to glue just a couple of inches at a time and keep the
edging centered as you proceed toward the root.
When you near the curve at the root, use a fine razor
saw to lightly cut part way through the inside of the
edging to assist in bending around the curve. Trim
the edging to the correct length, bend it around the
curve and glue it in place.

❏❏12. Bend an additional 1/16" x 1/4" x 36" stick

around the first layer of edging and glue it in place
with medium CA.

❏❏13.Make the last rib for the end of the elevator

from one of the 1/4" x 1/4" rib jigs you used when
framing the stab.Sand the rib to blend with the rest
of the structure, then carefully sand the elevator
edging and the elevator cap strips, blending them
as well. Round the leading edge of the stab as
shown in the cross section of the plan and finish
sanding the elevator and stab, carefully blending all
surfaces together.

❏❏14. Remove the elevator from the stab. Make

the elevator control horn mounting block for the
bottom of the elevator from the 5/8" x 5/8" x 22"

basswood stick and glue it to the bottom of the
elevator. Make the elevator ribs for the end of the
elevator from leftover 1/8" balsa and glue them in
position, then blend the ribs, elevator LE and control
horn block by sanding.

Set the first elevator aside , take a break, clean off y our
workbench and return to step four and build the right
elevator.We’ll see you when you get back to here!

Hinge the elevators

❏

1. Make the elevator hinge blocks from leftover
3/16" balsa and 1/4" x 7/16" balsa. Glue them in
place on both sides of the elevator. Notice that the
hinge blocks should slide under the cap strips and
next to the elevator ribs so they will rest below the
covering when it is applied.

❏ 2. See the Hot Tip that follows, then drill holes or

cut slots for your hinges (not supplied) in both
elevators and the stab.

- 14 -

❏ 3. Bevel the LE of both elevators for control throw.

Make certain you can achieve 1" of up and down
control throw as measured at the widest part of
the elevators.

Build the Fin

❏

1. Place the fin plan over your building board (you
may cut it from the fuse plan) and cover it with Great
Planes Plan Protector or waxed paper.

❏ 2. Glue both die-cut 1/8" balsa fin TE’s together

so the notches align. Use a straightedge and a
ballpoint pen to draw a centerline on the back of the
fin TE.

❏ 3. Without using any glue, join the die-cut 3/32"

balsa fin ribs to the fin TE and place the assembly
over the fin plan.Use leftover 1/4" x 1/4" rib jigs from
the stab to hold the fin ribs to the plan.

❏ 4. Use a small builder’s square to align the fin TE

with the plan and to make sure it is perpendicular to
your building board. Measure the distance between
the centerline you drew and your building board to
make sure the fin TE is true and level.Glue the TE to
the ribs.

❏ 5. Bevel the front of the fin ribs to the same angle

as the LE. Cut a shaped 15" balsa fin LE to the
length shown on the plan, then glue it into position.
The LE is centered on the fin ribs the same as it was
on the stab ribs.

❏ 6. Use the 3/16" x 3/16" sticks leftover from the

stab bracing to make the fin bracing between the
ribs where shown on the plan. Glue the fin bracing
into position.

❏ 7. Use a 1/16" x 3" x 24" balsa sheet to sheet the

LE of the fin as shown in the photo and on the plan.

❏ 8. Using the bottom fin sheeting pattern on the

plan, make the bottom fin sheeting from the
remainder of the 1/16" x 3" x 24" balsa sheet you
used in the previous step. Note: When using the
patterns provided, always cut the pieces larger than
the pattern to allow for positioning, trimming and
variances between individual models. Glue the
bottom fin sheeting to the fin.

NOTE: In the following two photos, disregard the
sheeting on the right side of the fin and the fact
that the fin is no longer on the building board.Your
fin should still be pinned to your building board at
this stage.

A. Inser t T-pins through the center of the elevator

LE near both ends.Position a straightedge along
the T-pins and mark a centerline with a fine-point
ballpoint pen.

B. Do the same for the other elevator and the TE of

the stab.

How to accurately mark the centerlines of the
control surfaces for hinging.

- 15 -

❏ 9. Remove the fin from your building board.Turn it

over and cut off the jig tabs.

❏ 10. Make the three fin hinge blocks from a 1/4" x

7/16" balsa stick and glue them to the fin TE where
shown on the plan.

❏11.Sheet the right side of the fin with an additional

1/16" x 3" x 24" balsa sheet the same way you
sheeted the left side.

❏12.Use two 1/16" x 1/4" x 36" balsa sticks to make

the cap strips for the TE and ribs V3, 4 and 5. Sand
the fin, blending the sheeting, cap strips and LE
together.Set the fin aside for now.

Build the Rudder

❏

1. Working over the rudder plan, glue the six

die-cut 3/32" balsa rudder core pieces together to

make the rudder core.

(It’s kind of like a puzzle; can

you figure it out?)

Sand both sides of the rudder core

flat and even.

❏ 2. Glue both die-cut 1/8" balsa rudder LE’s

together. Glue the rudder core, on center, to the
rudder LE the same way you did the stab cores.

❏ 3. The same way you did the elevators, securely

but temporarily T-pin the rudder LE, accurately
aligned and on center, to the fin.Note: The top of the
rudder core and the rudder LE should extend above
the top of the fin by 1/16".Carefully sand the sides of
the rudder LE to match the fin TE.

❏ 4. The same as you did for the elevator ribs, cut

the rudder ribs from 3/32" x 5/8" x 24" balsa sticks
and glue them to the rudder core where shown on
the plan. Note that the rudder r ibs should be 1/16"
below the rudder LE to accommodate the cap
strips (just the same as the elevators were).

❏ 5. Use leftover 3/32" and 1/4" balsa to make the

rudder hinge blocks and glue them to both sides of
the rudder core where shown on the plan.

❏ 6. The same way you did for the elevators, make

the rudder cap strips from 1/16" x 1/4" x 36" balsa
sticks and glue them to the rudder ribs. Sand the
ends of the cap strips flush with the rudder core and
glue the rudder edging around the TE.

❏ 7. Using leftover 3/32" balsa, make the small

gusset as shown on the plan for the top of the fin.
Glue the gusset to the LE and rib V6.

❏ 8.Test fit the 3/8" x 1" x 5-5/8" balsa rudder tip to

the top of the rudder. Carefully align the r udder tip
with the fin, then glue it to the rudder.

- 16 -

❏ 9. Insert a 1/16" balsa spacer between the rudder

tip and fin rib V6.Hold the rudder tip to the fin with a
T-pin. Shape the rudder tip as shown on the plan to
match the rudder and fin.

Now you may separate the rudder from the fin.

❏ 10. Make the rudder control horn blocks for

both sides of the rudder from the remainder of the
5/8" x 5/8" basswood stick.Make the rudder base for
both sides of the rudder from the 3/8" x 1/2" x 12"
balsa stick.Trim the bottom cap strip and the rudder
edging to accommodate the rudder base, then glue
the rudder bases to the rudder. Tr im, then sand the
rudder control horn blocks and the rudder bases to
blend with the rudder, b ut do not round or final shape
until instructed to do so (when it’s time to match the
rudder to the bottom of the fuse).

❏ 11. Hinge the r udder and fin the same as you did

the stab and elevators. Bevel the leading edge of the
rudder to allow for control throw. Be certain you can
achieve 2" control throw in both directions.

BUILD THE WING

Preliminary assembly

❏❏1. When removing ribs from die-cut sheets,

save the 1-1/8" round plug from both rib 10’s.

Build the left wing panel first so yours matches
the photos.

❏❏2.Glue together two die-cut 1/8" balsa inner TE

spars with the notches in alignment. Securely, but
temporarily, tack-glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa inner
TE spar jig to the bottom of the inner TE spar along

the aft edge.The jig will suppor t the inner TE during
construction, but will be removed after the wing panel
is removed from the building board.

❏❏3. Cut along the partially die-cut line of one die-

cut 1/8" balsa outer TE spars and remove the jig.
Glue that outer TE spar to the front of another outer
TE spar that has the jig still attached.

❏❏4. Working over Great Planes Plan Protector,

glue together the die-cut 3/32" balsa pieces that
make up ribs W4, 5, 6 and 7. Note: Be certain to
leave a 1/4" gap between W7B M and W7B R.

❏❏5. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa rib doublers to ribs

4 and 6 and the die-cut 1/8" plywood rib doublers to
ribs 1, 2, 3, 5 and 7. Refer to the plan to see which side
of the ribs the respective doublers are glued to (the
doublers go on the outside of all ribs except rib 7).

- 17 -

❏❏6. Cut four 17" joiner box rails from two 1/4" x

3/8" x 36" basswood sticks. Refer to the note at the
end of this step

(you’re reading the steps all the way

through before proceeding, aren’t you?)

, then use
epoxy to glue two of the rails to the 1/8" x 1-11/16" x
14" ply joiner box top. Use the die-cut 1/8" balsa
and ply rail spacers to maintain the correct spacing
of the rails.Use C-clamps or weights to hold the rails
to the joiner top until the epoxy is fully cured. From
now on this assembly will be referred to as the joiner
box top. Note: The root end of the rails extend
beyond the 1/8" ply joiner box top by 3/32".

❏❏7. After the epoxy has fully cured, remove the

spacers and sand the edges of the rails and ply box
top even. Use a ballpoint pen to write “top”
somewhere on the joiner box top.

❏❏8. Make an identical assembly the same way.

Mark it as the “bottom.”

❏❏9. One r ib at a time, test fit the joiner box top

through the slot in the top of ribs 2 thru 7. Make

adjustments to the slots in the ribs as necessary so
the joiner box top can slide all the way through. Hint:
The joiner box top passes through the ribs at an
angle. A thin sanding tool such as a Perma-Grit
(F-102) makes sanding the angle in the slots easy.

❏❏10.T est fit the joiner box bottom through the slot

in the bottom of ribs 2 thru 7 the same way.

❏❏11. Cut the bottom outer main spar from a

1/4" x 3/8" x 36" basswood stick to the length shown
on the plan (between ribs 15 and 5).

❏❏12. Following the dimensions in the sketch, cut

the bottom inner main spar that fits between rib 5
and rib 2 from a 1/4" x 3/8" x 36" basswood stick (or
use the remainder of the same stick you used for this
step if you are building the second (right) wing panel).

❏❏13. As you can see by observing the wing plan,

the spar web, outer TE spar, top main spar and
bottom main spar join the ribs at an angle. However,
the notches in the ribs for the spars can only be die-

cut straight through. Therefore, you must bevel the
notches in ribs 4 thru 15 to allow the spars to pass at
the required angle. Use a single-edge razor blade, a
sharp hobby knife or a Perma-Grit sander to bevel
the notches in the ribs. Study the ribs and the spars
for the wing panel you are building to be cer tain you
are cutting the bevel in the correct direction.

❏❏14. Bevel the notches of the die-cut 1/8" balsa

spar web and the outer TE spar the same way.

❏❏15. Bevel the aft edge of the outer TE spar to

the angle at which it will meet the inner TE spar 1"
from the end.

Clean all the balsa dust and wood chips off your
workbench and put away the CA.We still have more
work to do before it’s time to start gluing (but at least
we’re finally going to start fitting parts together!).

Frame the panel

❏❏

1. Without using any glue until instructed to do
so, fit ribs W5 through W15 on the spar web, then
add the bottom outer main spar and the outer TE
spar.Cut the top outer main spar from a 1/4" x 3/8"
x 36" basswood stick and add it to the assembly.

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