Top Flite A0305 INSTRUCTION BOOK Part 2

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Page 1

BUILD

THE

BOTTOMOFTHE

FUSELAGE

Cut a45degree angle at the aft end of two

1/4"x3/8"x36

you can

Pin the stringers over their location on the

plan

outside of the fuselage. The front end of the stringers should align with the the front and extend past the firewall by plenty of T conform to the curvature of the plan.

splice

the

stepped balsa

them onto another stringer later.

step

is on the bottom and faces the

side stringers

TEP"

dashed lines

pins to hold the stringers down sothey

1/8".

near

Use

Position but do not glue formers F1through

F11

on the side stringers sothe embossed names

on the formers face forward.

Are your

3/76

pushrod holes drilled?

Glue formers F2through stringers, holding them vertical with a triangle. Don't be concerned about formers that are slightly warped or twisted be able to straighten these formers when you glue

3/16

the

stringers to them.

F11

to the side

degree

that is normal. You will

Test fit, then glue the die-cut

fuse side doublers

and to the side stringers. to the firewall until the next step. You may have to reposition some of your T interfere with the side doublers. Use your triangle to hold the formers vertical while you glue the doublers to them.

Glue the fu e side doublers to the firewall with

minute epoxy using the firewall angle gauge to make sure the firewall is set at the correct angle. Use a large C hold the doublers to the firewall until the epoxy fully cures. Cut one 3

1/2"

on both the left and right sides behind the firewall. Glue them in place with 30

balsa tri stock pieces. Shape the pieces

they fit between the firewall and the fuse sides

to formersF2throughF6only

clamp or masking tape tosecurely

long piece from each of the

minute epoxy.

1/8"

not

glue the doublers

pinssothey do not

plywood

(2)

1/4"

3/8"

3. Cut another

side stringer in half. Bevel one end of both stringers

x 36"stepped balsa

to match the angles you cut on the stringers already pinned to the plan.

the plan and glue them to the front stringers with thin CA. Trim the ends

F11

by approximately

the following photo.

Pin the stringers to

they extend past former

1/8".

You can see the

splice

Glue the firewall to the side stringers using

the die

cut

1/8"

hold the firewall at the correct angle.

plywood

firewall angle gauge

-37-

Locate two of the the outside of the tubes them through the holes in formers

they extend forward of formerF6by Do not

glue the pushrod tubes in place until instructed to

so.

pushrod tubes. Sand

glue will stick. Slide

through

F10

Page 2

Refertothese photos for the next four steps.

10. Glue the 3/16"x 1/2"x9-7/8" balsa bottom

fuse sheeting support

even with the fuse side doublers. Cut and fit, but

do not glue,

seven 3/16 notches of the formers as shown on the plan and in the photo. Save the leftover pieces. The three bottom stringers extend You can see the stringers in the photo at step

page 38.

11. Glue the fronts of the three bottom stringers to the sheeting support, then use your 90 degree triangle

and glue the bottom stringers

12. Glue the 3/16"x 3/16"side stringers and

pushrod guide tubes

13. Cut the bottom

formers where shown on the plan from two 1/2" 36"balsa triangle sticks. Glue the corner stringers in place.

Disregard the servos.

in position. Sand the ends

the aft bottom fuse stringers from

x 3/16

"x36"balsa sticks to fit in the

the sheeting support.

hold each former at the correct angle

the formers.

corner stringers

fit on the

MOUNT THE SERVOS

Optional:

out the back of the fuselage, cut a third 3/16 pushrod guide tube (not included)

. Roughen the outside of the tube with coarse

21 sandpaper through the holes in the bottom of the formers until the front extends past former F7 by approximately

1/2". Glue the tube to the formers (this tube is

visible in the photo at step

2. Test fit your servos in the

(or

ruddervator/elevator

they fit. Glue a servo tray

front

the

3. Cut an 36"basswood stick tofit between the fuse sides approximately 1-7/8" aft of former F5 where shown on the plan. It will be helpful if you cut the rail length that will provide a fuse side doublers position without using glue. Position the aft servo tray rail between the fuse sides.

4. Position your servos into the servo trays and

place the trays on the rail and former Temporarily thread two nylon clevises just a few turns onto two 36

Install the pushrods into the pushrod guide tubes

and connect the clevises

your servos.

For routing your receiver antenna

(so

glue will stick) and slide the tube

5).

aft servo trays

doubler

from a 1/4"x3/8"

friction fit

servo arms on

of both trays.

aft

servo tray rail

servo trays) to make sure

it will temporarily stay in

one-end threaded pushrods.

toalength of

the bottom of

outer

between the

F5.

Position the rail and the servo trays sothe servo arms align with the pushrods. Glue the rail and servo trays this position. Drill 1/16 mount the servos with the screws that came with your radio.

former F5 and the fuse sides in

holes in the servo trays and

FINISH FRAMING THE FUSE

1. Refertothe photo in the following step and test fit a die on the right side of the fuse. The front edge of the

forward fuse doubler should align with the front

edge surface of the doubler and glue it in place. Be sure

that former F2 remains square and flat.

side of the fuselage. Use

leftover from the aft bottom stringers

forward bottom stringers

the firewall and

cut 1/8" balsa

the fuse side doubler. Wet the outer

Gluetheotherforwardfusedoublertotheleft

F2.

forward fuse doubler

3/16

3/16"balsa sticks

that fit in the notches of

Glue the stringers in place.

make the

Page 3

Sand the stringers even with the formers.

Sand the fronts of the triangle corner stringers

they blend to the ply side doublers and the bottom sheeting support.

STEP

....

One at a time, remove the T-pins in the main side stringers aft of former angle from the outside

F6.

Replace them at an

they will not interfere with

the side sheeting.

late in

1950

military was evaluating the

at the age

as a trainer.

53.

During this time the

YT-34

prototypes for use

SHEET THE FUSELAGE SIDES

Glue

two

3/32

"x3

together to make a

6"x

48"fuse

the glue is dry, sand the sheets even and smooth.

3/32

SIDE

balsa sheets

side

sheet.

they are flat,

SHEET

After

Note:

The side sheet will not reach all the way

back to the end of the fuselage. We will instruct you

3/32

to add a piece of leftover

balsatothe

rear later.

Reposition the side sheet on the fuse. Mark and trim the front bottom of the side sheet above the bottom of the balsa front fuse doubler.

Test fit the side sheet and make any further

adjustments necessary for a good fit.

A little section at a time, carefully pry the fuse side from the fuse side doubler and apply thin or medium CA between the two. Quickly press them together. thoroughly glued

Glue the fuse side tothe side stringers with

this until the fuse side is

the side doubler.

thin CA and hold them together until the CA cures.

You

can really see how the bottom half of the fuse

will remain straight, true and flat

(as

flat as your building board) when you remove it from your building board!

Return to step 1and glue another side sheet

the left fuse side the same way.

MAIN

FUSE

STRINGER

True one edge of the fuse side Hold the side sheet on the right fuse side and mark the wing saddle and corner stringer on the sheet. Trim

3/16

the sheet about

outside of the lines.

Apply a bead of medium CA to the

ledge

portion of the side stringer from the to former

F6.

Working quickly, position the side sheet onthe ledge oftheside stringer and press it into position where you have applied the glue. After the CA dries apply thin CA sheet aft of former CA applicator tip, such as the Pacer Z

the side stringer and side

from inside the fuse. A long

Ends"with a Teflon@ tube, helps you apply the CA just where you need it.

Add pieces of leftover

the side sheets

photo at step

10.

Remove the T-pins and lift the fuselage from

the end of the fuselage. See the

11.

3/32

balsatoextend

your building board. Reinforce glue joints you couldn't reach earlier or those that don't look strong.

Page 4

11. Trim, then sand the fuselage side sheeting and stringers that extend aft of former F11 are flush.

they

2. True the edges of both tail cone halves with coarse sandpaper and a bar sander. Thoroughly sand the mating surfaces

Carefully glue the tail cone halves together with

thin CA. Use just a few drops at a time.

Note:

Do not use CA accelerator on any of the ABS plastic. Accelerator may cause the plastic to develop cracks over time and prevent some types

of paint from sticking.

glue will stick.

you are building the straight tail, Skip to

the Sfraight Tail Stab and Fin

on page

Mount

45.

MOUNT THE V-TAIL STAB

Note:

Build accurately during the next few steps. The stab saddle and the aft formers align the stab and set the incidence, which will greatly affect the way your model flies.

GLUE THE TAIL CONE TOGETHER

1. Cut both formed ABS the cutlines. The cutlines can be most easily seen from the inside. We highly recommend a pair of curved Kyosho Lexan Scissors because you can cut straight lines or small tight curves easily and accurately. You could also use a small pair of regular scissors or score the plastic along the cutlines with a hobby knife and flex the plastic until the excess breaks free.

tail cone halves

along

3. Trim the clear plastic of the tail cone. Do not glue the tail lens in place until after you paint the tail cone.

If you are installing a tail navigation light, make an leftover ABS plastic and glue it to the rear of the tail cone. Drill a 5/32 for the tail light lens included with the lighting kit. Test fit the tail light.

aft tail cone former

tail lens

hole in the rear of the tail cone

to fit on the end

from a piece of

Refer to this photo for the following three steps.

V1. Glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood

former F11AV

sure F11AV

V2. Glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood

saddles

F11AV. The angle of the aft edge of the stab

saddle sets the angle of F11AV (which is 90').

V3. Glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood former to the top of F10 and the front edge of the stab saddles. F1OAV may be slightly aft of F10.

V4. Test fit the stab halves on the fuse by sliding them onto the joiner portion of former FlOAV.

Bevel the ends of the stabs as necessary all the way onto former F1OAV. Bevel the top, inner edge of the stab saddles to match the angle of the stabs but The ends of former F11AV should contact the

inboard ends of the stab

to the aft bottom former F11. Make

accurately

to the top of the main side stringers and

do not change the incidence angle.

aligns with F11

aft upper

V-tail stab

FIOAV

they fit

Page 5

V5. Remove the stab halves. Temporarily

position the die

doubler

on the front of former FlOAV and test fit

the stab again. Make adjustments if necessary

cut 1/16"plywood

V-tail

the stab aligns the same as it did in the previous

#64

step. Use stabs to F11

V6. InsertaT-pin in the

rubber bands to temporarily hold the

AV.

center

of the top of the

firewall.

V8.

Glue the 1/16"plywood V-tailLEdoubler to

the front of former F1OAV with 30

minute epoxy.

Study the next three steps before you proceed.

Then work quickly and carefully.

V9. Mix enough 30-minute epoxy to thoroughly

joiners

coat both sides of the

on former F1OAV and the insides of the stab halves where they contact the

joiners.

Fiberglass to the epoxy

You may add some Great Planes Milled

thicken it and add

strength.

V11.Turn the fuselage over and inspect the glue

joints that hold the stab in place. If necessary, add

minute epoxy to joints that may not have

30 received enough.

V12. After the epoxy fully cures, sand the joiner portion of flush with the top and bottom of the stabs. Add balsa filler

it is smooth and matches the contour of the stab

needed. Sand the filler

sheeting.

Beech

Fact:

Magazine,

100

the

In the April, 1959 issue

the Beechcraft Bonanza was included in

best designs list.

The

only

other aircraft

Fortune

included in the list was another world famous airplane

the

Douglas DC-3.

V7.

Tie a loop on one endofa

string and connect it to the T

pin in the top of the

piece of

firewall. Put a piece of masking tape with an arrow

on it near the other end of the string. Slide the tape along the string and align the arrow with the corner of one of the stab halves. Swing the tape over to other corner on the other stab half. Shift the stab halves and slide the tape along the string until the arrow aligns with the corners on both stab halves. Once you have confirmed that the stabs will align, remove them from the fuselage.

V10.

Coat both sides of the forward V-tail

doublers, the front of the rear joiners, the tops of the saddles, the insides of the stab halves where they contact the joiners and the TE of the stabs where they contact the joiners with epoxy. Slide the

stab halves into position and use rubber bands to hold them in place. Use the pin and string to align the stab halves and,

necessary, use T-pins or masking tape to hold them in position. Apply a fillet of epoxy where both stab halves meet. Wipe away excess epoxy before it cures and do not disturb the model until the epoxy is fully cured.

-41-

Page 6

BUILD THE TURTLE DECK

V1.

Glue formers

of their respective formers.

F7A, F8A

and

F9A

to the tops

V3.

Sand the stringers and formers sothat they

will blend.

V4.

balsa sheets-one sheet on the of the turtle deck and one sheet on the side of the turtle deck. Examine the four x aside to be used for the tops.

the skin for the bottom of the left turtle deck side from one of the the bottom. Use the bottom turtle deck sheet pattern on the plan approximate shape.

How to use the patterns to make the turtle

deck skins

Cut the pattern from the plan. Spray the back of

the pattern and one of the sheets with

Repositionable Spray Adhesive. Press the sheets

together and press the pattern onto one of the sheets. Cut the skins along the lines with a sharp

#11

The turtle deck is sheeted with four

balsa sheets and set the

V5.

Follow the Hot Tip that follows and make

1/16

balsa sheets you selected for

blade.

bottom

two

cut the sheet tothe

softest sheets

1/16

of each side

fop

of each

1/16

V7.

stringers, formers and stab.

Glue the bottom turtle deck sheet to the

V8.

bottom turtle deck sheet and the fuse side with a leftover piece of

other side the same way.

side of the turtle deck with the top turtle deck pattern on the plan and one of the soft

the turtle deck and trim where needed.

Fill in the small

/16"

V9.

Sheet the bottom of the turtle deck on the

V1O

Makeatopturtledecksheetfortheleft

balsa sheets you set aside. Test fit the sheet to

balsa.

wedge

between

/16"

the

V2.

Cut the turtle deck stringers from six

3/16

"x3/16

"x36

of the stringers that contact the stab

sheeting. Glue the stringers into the notches of the formers as shown on the fuselage plan and in the photo. Note the arrangement of the stringers at F9A. Important: Align the formers with a straightedge as you glue them

balsa sticks. Trim the aft edge

the stringers.

they fit the

V6.

trim where needed. The top edge of the sheet in the center of the third stringer. Ifnecessary, wet the sheet with a

Hint: The best way to accurately cut the sheet your model is with careful test fitting, close observation, and removing only small amounts of material at a time. When done this way, you will be rewarded with a great looking model even

before

favorite part!

Test fit the bottom turtle deck sheet and

50/50

solutionofalcohol and water

it will bend easier.

you cover it. Then, sheeting will be your

-42-

ends

fit

V11

turtle deck. Use a paint brush

50/50

(especially from the leading edge of the stab to the end of the sheet). Be patient, bend the sheet a little at a time, and keep applying water and alcohol.

. Gluethe

mixture of alcohol and water tothe sheet

top

turtledecksheettothe

liberally apply a

Page 7

IMPORTANT NOTE:

sandasthey build

very end. to

even the turtle deck sheeting with the fuse

sides, you may do

thin

ABS fitted and must match the sheeting.

you prefertodo a little sanding now

the 1/16"turtle deck sheeting because the

tail cone

Some modelers prefer

instead of waiting until the

but

do not excessively

and ABS

cabin

have yettobe

V12. Sheet the other sideofthe turtle deck the same way. Fill in the space between the two turtle deck sheets on top near former F7A with a leftover piece of 1/16 balsa.

V13. Apply hobby filler where needed. Use masking tape isn't needed.

soitis

sheeting at the front should be even with F7A where it meets the

keep filler off the sheeting where it

not build up a fillet.

V14. Trim, then sand the turtle deck sheeting

flush with former F7A and The

step

on the side stringer.

It's beginning to look like a Bonanza, isn't it !

HOOKUPTHE RUDDERVATORS

V1.

Cut the remaining of the stabilizers. Test fit the ruddervators stab with the hinges.

V2. Tap threads into both nylon

with a 6 onto one of the bottom of the swivel is 7/16 torque rod. Thread the other swivel horn onto the other ruddervator torque rod the same amount.

Compare the swivels are threaded on

32 tap. Thread one of the swivel horns

two

hinge

slots

the TE

swivel

horns

ruddervator torque rods

from the end of the

torque rods and make sure both

the same amount.

-43-

the

V3. Use a straightedge and aballpoint pen

extend

the centerlines on the stab TE until they meet in the center of FIlA. Position the torque rods on the centerlines apart. Accurately mark the location of the portion of the torque rods (that fit into the ruddervators) on the TE of the stab.

V4.

ruddervators the marks

Remove the torque rods and fit the

the stab with the hinges. Transfer

theLEof the ruddervators.

V5. Drill a hole in the edge of the ruddervators at the marks you made. Cut a groove in the torque rods. Test fit the ruddervators with the torque rods.

Hint:

Use a brass tube sharpened at one end

cut the grooves for the torque rods.

the swivels are 3/16

center

LE's

accommodate the

of the leading

arm

the stab

Page 8

V6.

Cut away former F1IAVsothe torque rods can move back and forth. Reposition the ruddervators with the torque rods and make sure they do not interfere with former look something like the photo when you're done.

V7.

Cut 7"frOm the non-threaded end of a

pushrod wire.

wire with a cloth dampened with alcohol or other

solvent. Cut six inner pushrod tube, then slide the bushings evenly spaced onto the wire. Make sure the bushings at the ends of the wire will not protrude from the guide tube or the control could become stuck during

If the bushings slide onto the wire easily, hold

flight.

them

place with a drop of thin CA. Make sure the CA cures before you proceed inadvertently glue the pushrods into the guide tubes! Slide a silicone and thread the clevis onto the wire about 15full turns. Make a second pushrod the same way.

Clean residual oil from the

1/4"

long

retainer

F11

bushings

onto a nylon

AV.

It should

,074''

from the white

you do not

clevis

V8.

Install the pushrods in the guide tubes. Temporarily connect the clevises to the torque rods and fit the ruddervators to the stab. Place a servo arm on your ruddervator servos.

1-1'4"

V9. ruddervators neutral, use a felt tip pen to mark the pushrods exactly arms. Remove the pushrods from the fuselage. Cut

them at the marks you made.

wire pushrod. Reinsert the pushrods into the fuselage and thread Temporarily connect the pushrods to the servos and ruddervators. Adjust the length necessary by turning the clevises in or out.

(FllTC)

material as needed to clear the torque rods and pushrods.

With the servos centered and the

1-1/4

from the holes in the servo

V10.

Silver solder a

FIT

V1.

Glue the die-cut balsa tail

on the end of the fuselage. Remove

threaded coupler

nylon clevis onto the couplers.

the pushrods

THE

TAIL

CONE

-44-

onto each

cone former

V2.

Glue the die-cut plywood tail

mounts

notches in the torque rods. Fit the tail cone on the aft end of the fuse and fasten it to the mounts with four screws.

the tail cone former. Cut U-shaped

top

of the tail conetoclear the

Make

sure the screws donot interfere

with the ruddervator torque rods.

V3.

After you have fitted the tail cone, skip to

Sheet the

bottom

of the fuserage

on page

Beech

Fact:

confusing Bonanzas. This is because there were versions built. The F33 produced in 1970 was the

short

long cabin (and is the subjectofour

Edition straight tail). The additional cabin on the formerly available additional new as six place seating and a larger cargo door, were available. Price

The F33A, it turns out, is one of the most

cabin and the produced in 1971 was the

Top Flite Gold

33A

matched the baggage space

only

the

33A

was

found cabin space other options, such

the V-tail. With this

$41,600

cone

#2x3/8"

50.

two

inches of the

(back then).

Page 9

MOUNT THE STAB AND FIN

CENTER THE STAB

ST1. Glue the die-cut 118" balsa

F11A

former

to former F11

aft upper

ST2. Securely glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood

straight tail stab saddles

the top of the main

fuse side stringer and F11A.

ST3. Glue the die-c ut 118" plywood upper former

FlOA

to the top of former F10. Glue the front of the

stab saddles

ST4. Use a bar sander with 80

F 1OA.

grit sandpaper

sand the front of the stab sothe TE will align with F11A.

ST6.

TE. Use the die

Mark the

rod drill guide

center

cut 1/8" plywood

of the stab 1 / 8 from the

rudder torque

to drill a 3/16"hole through the center of the stab at the mark. Make sure you drill from the

top

of the stab.

Hint:

A6"piece of 3/16

brass tube sharDened at one end cuts a clean hole.

TOROUE

ROD

CUT

OFF

...

. .

ST7. Cut the threaded end of the

rod

the threads extend 5/8" as in the sketch.

Tap threads in the ,nylon

5/8"

rudder torque

swivel horn

with a 6-32 tap. Thread it onto the rudder torque rod until it is even with the end.

ST8. Insert the rudder torque rod through the

You'll

hole from the bottom of the stab.

have to

force it a little because of the bend in the wire.

ST1.

Cut

,074"

x36"

from the non-threaded end of a

pushrod wire.

Clean residual oil from the wire with a cloth dampened with alcohol or other solvent. Cut six 1/4" long

bushings

from the white inner pushrod tube, then slide the bushings evenly spaced onto the wire. Make sure the bushings at the ends of the wire will not protrude from the guide tube or the control could become

stuck during flight.

the bushings slide onto the wire easily, hold them in place with a drop of thin CA. Make sure the CA cures before you proceed

you do not inadvertently glue the pushrods into the guide tubes! Slide a silicone nylon

clevis

and thread the clevis onto the wire

retainer

onto a

about 15 full turns. Make a second pushrod the same way.

ST2. Connect one of the pushrods tothe nylon swivel horn on the rudder torque rod and slide the pushrod into the rudder pushrod guide tube in the fuselage. Position the stab on the stab saddle. Place a weight on top of the stab to hold it in place.

ST5.

sanding drum

Use a hobby knife or a Multi-Pro with a

cut F11Atoclear the horn on the

elevator joiner wire and the rudder torque rod.

Beech

Quote:

The

Beechcraft Bonanza is a

masterpiece of engineering; it's an airplane that

constitutes a modern miracle

aeronautical design; and in our opinion, marks a new milestone in the progress

aviation.

-45-

WalterH.Beech

August

1946

ST3.

former saddles.

Align the TE of the stab with the center of

1. Mark the TE of the stab above the stab

Page 10

ST4. Insert a T-pin in the center of the top of the

firewall.

ST5. Tiealoop on one end of a54" string and connect it firewall. Put a piece of masking tape with an arrow on it near the other end of the string. Slide the tape

along the string and align the arrow with the corner

of one of the stab halves. Swing the tape over the other corner on the other side of the stab. Shift the stab and slide the tape along the string until the

arrow aligns with both corners of the stab.

ST6. Mark the

former F1

OA.

the T-pin in the top of the

of the stab where it aligns with

piece of

ALIGN THE STAB HORIZONTALLY

STl. Place two clothespins on the top offormer

F4 and rest a straightedge on the top

sides, propped up against the clothespins. See the

following photo.

ST2. Stand behind the fuselage and view the

stab and the straightedge

necessary, carefully sand one side of the stab

saddle

the stab will align with the straightedge.

ST3. Move the rudder pushrod wire back and

forth

to interfere with the. fuse sides and the rudder torque rod can move freely. pushrod wire or the saddle.

binding here.

the saddle. Place the stab on the saddle sothe marks you made earlier align. Before the epoxy cures, confirm alignment once more using the

and

epoxy has fully cured.

make sure the clevis and horn do

There must not be any possibility of

ST4.

Use 30-minute epoxy toglue the stab

string

technique.Donot proceed until the

seeifthey align.

necessary, adjust the

clearance

slot

in the stab

the fuse

not

-46-

MOUNT THE FIN

STI. Trim the sheeting on the bottom of the fin

until it matches the top of the stab. Make sure you trim both sides evenly the fin sheeting in front of former F1OA with fin rib R1 as shown in the photo. R1 of the fin should rest on former F10 and the rear of the stab.

the fin sits vertical. Trim

ST2.

basswood fin post on the front of F1

up into the fin until it hits the

position and remove the fin. Mark the location of

the fin post. Apply 30

and FlOA. Clamp the fin post to FlOA aligned with

the marks you made.

vertical and is centered on former

post aligns the front of the fin with the fuselage.

With the fin on the stab, place the

LE.

Hold the fin post in

minute epoxy to the fin post

Be certain the fin post i s

and slide it

FlOA.

it is even

The fin

Page 11

BUILD

THE

TURTLE

DECK

A=A

ST3. After the epoxy cures, position the fin on the fin post and confirm that the fin remains vertical. Make adjustments if necessary. Use the

pin and

distance between the tip of the fin and the stab tips.

the fin with 30 or microballoons to and fin sheeting to the stab with 30 Make sure the former F11 the stab and the fin sheeting. Use masking tape

string

technique or a ruler tomeasure the

ST4. Glue the top of the fin post to the inside of

the bottom of the fin). Glue the base of the fin

minute epoxy and milled fiberglass

(so

all the epoxy won't run down

of the fin is

minute epoxy.

centered

. Apply a small fillet of epoxy between

hold the fin until the epoxy is fully cured.

over

Test

fit

temporarily hook up the pushrods. Make sure you can move the controls without any interference or binding. Make adjustments if necessary.

engine Model 18was being produced for the military in a variety of configurations. But as unpatriotic as it may have seemed at the time,

postwar years. The twin would certainly continue but the Model mark

the biplane was on its way out. The trend was

continuing toward all metal, light planes (started by

Luscombe as early as

workona

overtime basis. After much careful study

find

out

design, wind tunnel and static testing,onDecember

22,

1945, the first Bonanza was on its maiden voyage

test pilot Vern Carstens.

ilown

the rudder and eleva

one

hadtothink ahead

Staggerwing was a question

1934).

new

model wastobe done on a voluntary,

what typeofplanetobuild, and after hours

Beechcraft, design

itor and

The

the market

twin

-47-

ST1. Glue formers

their respective formers.

tops

ST2.

Cut

the seven 3/16 stringers into the notches of the formers as shown on the fuselage plan and in the photo. Note the arrangement of the stringers at F9A.

Important:

you glue the stringers

blend together.

1/16 each side of the turtle deck and one sheet on the

top of each side of the turtle deck. Examine the

four 1/16 softest sheets aside

"x3/16

Align the formers with a straightedge as

ST3. Sand the stringers and formers sothey

ST4. The turtle deck is sheeted with four

balsa sheets-one sheet on the bottom of

x3x24balsa sheets and set the two

F7A, F8A

turtle deck stringers

"x30"balsa sticks. Glue the

them.

be used for the top.

and

F9A

the

from

Page 12

ST5.

to a length of 21-1/2". Position the sheet side of the turtle deck bottom of the stab and is parallel stringer from the bottom as shown in the photo.

Cut one of the bottom turtle deck sheets

the top edge contacts the

the left

the third

ST7. Reposition the sheet. Mark and cut it

along the line.

matches the bottom of the stab.

ST8. deck side sheet and the fuse side with piece of 1/16

this until the sheet accurately

Fill in the small

balsa. See the following photo.

wedge

between the turtle

stab

leftover

STI

and the stab with a leftover piece of 1/16"balsa.

same way. Add the the stab.

1. Fill most of the space between the fin

ST12. Sheet the right side of the turtle deck the

partial fillet

between the fin and

ST6. Use a ballpoint pen tomark the bottom

the stab onto the sheet. Remove the sheet and

cut along the line you marked.

ST9. Trim the top of the sheet so it

the center of the third stringer. Trim the bottom of the sheet

Glue the sheet in position.

sheet and the top, sheet Glue the sheet in position. Make

1/16 leftover piece of balsa to fit between the

turtle deck sheets in the front.

it matches the topofthe fuse side.

ST10.

Trim another 1/16

to fit between the bottom turtle deck sheet

center

stringer. Trim the aft end of the

"x3

so it fits the fin and ends at former FlOA.

-48-

wedge

ends

balsa

from a

two

ST13. Trim, then sand the turtle deck sheeting

it is flush with former F7A and sheeting at the front should be even with F7A where it meets the

ledge

on the side stringer.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Some modelers prefer to

sand as

very end.

sides, you may do

1/16 turtle deck sheeting because the ABS

cone

must match the sheeting.

they

build

insteadofwaiting until the

If you prefer to do a little sanding now

even the turtle deck sheeting with the fuse

and ABS

but

not over-thin

cabin

have yet to be fitted and

A. The

the

tail

Page 13

HOOK

THE

RUDDER AND

ELEVATO

Note: As on the full size Beechcraft, the elevators and rudder can touch, set

that this does not happen during flight.

but

the rudder throw

will

BUILD

ST1. Use the pattern on the plantomake the dorsal fin base from leftover 1/16 dorsal fin base sure the front of the base is centered on the fuse centerline.

THE

DORSAL FIN

the top of the turtle deck. Make

balsa. Glue the

ST1. Install the pushrods in the guide tubes. Temporarily connect the clevises to the rudder control horn place.

ST2. Place a servo arm on your rudder and elevator servos. With the servos centered and the rudder and elevators neutral, use a felt mark the pushrods exactly 1 the servo arms. Remove the pushrods from the fuselage. Cut them at the marks you made.

ST3. Silver solder a threaded coupler onto each wire pushrod. Reinsert the pushrods into the fuselage and thread a nylon clevis onto the couplers. Temporarily connect the pushrods servos and rudder and elevator. Adjust the length

of the pushrods in or out.

and

fit the rudder and elevator

-1/4"

necessary by turning the clevises

tip pen to

from the holes in

the

1/16

...

ST2.

Cut the 15" tapered balsa dorsal tin

the shape shown on the plan. Glue the dorsal fin

to the fin LE and the dorsal fin brace.

ST3.

Make

two

1/16

balsa sheeting and pattern on the plan. Test fit and glue one of the sheets dorsal fin base. Wet the sheet and glue it dorsal

fin

LE.

off

fin Glue the other dorsal fin sheet in position.

to one side when you glue the sheet to it.

dorsal fin sheets from leftover

Make sure you do not pull the dorsal

-49-

1/2"

the turtle deck and

the

ST4.

the dorsal fin and fin.

Glue the

ST5. fin filler to blend them front of the dorsal fin to complete the taper and

each layer to fully dry before you apply the next.

Apply Hobbylite filler to the dorsal fin and

blend it to the turtle deck. in one application but build up thin layers, allowing

1/16

die-cut plywood fin filler

the fin. Apply fillertothe

not apply all the filler

ST6. Sand the fillet, blending the dorsal fin, fin

filler and fin into one smooth contour.

Page 14

FIT THE TAIL CONE

SHEET THE BOTTOMOFTHE

FUSELAGE

1.Ifyou are going tohook up working lights, now is a convenient time to route the wire for the light in the tail. Route the wire through the formers. Glue the wire to the formers with rubber cement or a drop of CA enough wire to extend past former F11 extend about 2

they don't rattle around. Allow

past the back of the tail cone.

it will

MOUNT THE ENGINE

ST1. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa tail cone

former (F11TC) on the end of the fuselage.

Remove material as needed to clear the torque rods and pushrods. There must be of

binding

ST2. Refer to the photo at stepV2on page shows the V Glue the die the tail cone former. Cut round notches in the tail cone to clear the joiner wire. Fit the tail cone on the aft end of the fuse and fasten it to the mounts with four

not

Mount the tail cone to the fuselage.

tail cone and the TE of the rudder with leftover

balsa. Use lightweight hobby filler to blend the fin to

the stab and the tail cone to the fin.

here.

tail but the straight tail is the same.

cut

1/8"

plywood tail cone mounts to

3/8" screws. Make sure the screws

interfere with the elevator torque

ST3. Remove the elevators and joiner wire.

ST4.

Fill

the small space between the top of the

possibility

rod.

44.

2. Cut a of 28. True both edges of the sheet with a hobby knife and a straightedge. Pin the sheet to the bottom of the fuselage in the 'center butts against the front edge of the tail cone.

3. True both edges ofanother 3/32"x 3 balsa sheet. Position the sheet on the bottom of the fuselage next to the center sheet. Use a ballpoint pen Cut the sheet along the line you drew. with the remainder of the sheet on the other side of the fuselage.

the glue dries, sand the fuselage bottom sheet

is flat and the edges are even. Sand the bottom at the formers and stringers flat. Glue the fuselage bottom sheet to the bottom

of the fuselage.

5. Shape the bottom shown in the cross sections on the plan blend with the tail cone at the rear.

3/32

x 3

"x30"balsa sheet to a length

mark the side of the fuselage onto the sheet.

Glue the three bottom sheets together. After

that they are even and

corners

of the fuselage as

-50-

the end

the same

"x30

they

Glue the die-cut 1/8"plywood servo tray doublers to the bottom of both die plywood forward servo trays. Mount your throttle servo to one tray and your nose wheel steering servo to the other tray.

Cut a 8-3/4"

36"basswood stick to fit between the

3/8" fuselage sides behind former F2. Test fit, then glue the servo rail to the fuse sides and former F2 1-7/8"

below the top edge

3. Cut a 8-13/16 the fuselage side doublers servo rail. Place the throttle and nose wheel

steering servo and tray between the rails. Adjust the position of the aft rail to fit your servos. Glue the aft servo rail in place. Do not glue the servo trays in place until instructed to do

Glue the FlT/FlDT assembly to the top of the firewall. Use a straightedge to make sure they align.

forward

servo

rail from a

F2.

aft

servo rail tofit between

7/8

aft of the forward

so.

cut 118

1/4"

Page 15

Glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood

doubler

to the back of the firewall, centered on the

firewall

engine mount punch marks, 1/8" below the notch in the center of F1DT as shown on the plan.

FIXED LANDING GEAR RETRACT LANDING GEAR

(VIEWED

FROM THE FRONT)

7/32

IVIEWED FROM THE FRONT)

7/32

6. Drill the correct size holes through the punch marks on the front of the firewall as shown in the sketches above. Tightly hold a on the back

the drill does not split the wood

thick

block of wood

when it comes through.

Press four 8-32 blind nuts into the holes on

the back of the firewall. Use an 8

32x1-1/2"

socket head cap screw with some large washers to

draw

the blind nuts into the wood. Wick thin CA around the back of the blind nuts to permanently hold them in place.

Temporarily clamp the die-cut

tank

floor

to the forward servo rail so it is centered

1/8"

plywood

on the back of the firewall doubler. Turn the fuselage over and push the tank floor up until it contacts the edge of the bottom blind nuts. Glue a

"x3/16

3/16 firewall under the tank floor to serve as a

tank floor

"x3"balsa stick to the back of the

forward

ledge.Donot glue the tank floor to the

ledge until instructed to do so.

9.Ifyou have not already done

fuselage side doublers and fuselage sides

so,

sand the

they

are flush with the front of the firewall.

10. Cut the

halves and trim off any

spacer bar

off both

engine mount

flashingsothey easily fit

together. Loosely bolt your engine mount to the

firewall with four 8/32

screws,

lock washers and flat washers. Adjust

1-1/4" socket head cap

the mount so your engine will fit. Tighten the

screws to securely hold the mount to the firewall. Use small clamps

hold your engine to the mount

so the front of the drive washer (or the back plate

of your spinner) is 6

1/4 from the firewall. Mount a flat wood stick or the back plate of your spinner to the engine so you can measure the distance.

Beech Fact: Inaddition to the aforementioned

benefits the V manufacturing costs through fewer parts, fewer parts

for

Beech dealers to stock, reduced damage from debris thrown from the prop and wheels, and spin recovery superior to that of an airplane with a conventional tail.

tail offers, others include lower

11. Mark the engine mounting bolt holes on the

Hint:

mount.

Mark the holes with a wire rod

sharpened at one end. Heat the tip of the rod with a

center

torch to dimple the engine mount in the

the holes.

12. Remove the engine from the mount and the

mount from the firewall. Use a drill press,

you have access to one, or use a hand drill to drill the holes with a #29 or 9/64 drill bit for 8 Tap 8

32 threads into the mount. Screw the mount

32 screws.

back onto the firewall. Screw the engine to the

mount with 8

32x1"screws to see how it fits.

Page 16

MOUNT THE NOSE LANDING GEAR

Continue with these instructions ifyou are

installing fixed landing gear.

installing retracts, skip to

53.

page

Fixed

gear

F1.

Draw a line connecting the punch marks on

both die

braces.

die

plan. Mark the location of the gear rails onto the braces.

cut

1/8"

Cut the braces off at the line. Glue the two

cut

/8"

F2.

Place the braces over their locationonthe

F3. Remove the engine mount from the firewall.

plywood nose

plywood

Retractable

nose gear plates

1/4"

you are

gear

landing gear

together.

plywood landing

F4.

Cut a bevel on the end of the

plywood

on the end

right side of the firewall and in the notch in former F2. Position the right brace and align the front of

the rail with the front of the brace. Mark the rail

aftofformer F2.

the mark. Mark the other rail in the same manner.

F5.

the rails to the firewall and former

braces front of the rails are even with the front of the braces.

F6.

nose gear plate. Press four holes in the plate, and secure them with thin CA.

landing gear

the braces. Test fit a rail through the

Use 30-minute epoxy to simultaneously glue

the rails and the firewall. Make sure the

Drill

1/8"

holes through the punch marks in the

rails

Remove the rail and cut it at

4-40

1/4"x9/16

to match the angle

1/8"

F2,

and the rail

blind nuts into the

-52-

F7.

Position the nose gear plate on the front of

the braces. Trim the rails

interfere. Use 30 gear plate to the rails and rail braces. Hold the plate in position with masking tape until the epoxy is fully cured. Add balsa triangle on the plan cut from leftover fuse corner stringers. See the photo at step

F8. Mount the nylon

nose plate with four

the holes in the nose gear bearing for the nose

gear strut with a numbered drill set, an

F9. Enlarge the outer hole in the black, nylon

steering arm

Mount the heavy duty the steering arm with the Mount the 3/16 bearing with a and the steering arm and a 6-32 cap screws as shown on the plan. Notice that the steering arm is slightly off center when the nose gear is centered.

FIO. Temporarily fit your nose steering servo

and tray on the forward servo rails. Fit a servo arm

your servo.

#10

with a

nose gear wire

3/16

minute epoxytoglue the nose

the blind nuts do not

braces

11.

nose gear bearing

4-40

1/2"

screws. Enlarge

drill bit

(if

11/64

you don't have a

drill bit will work too).

drill bit or a hobby knife.

Screw-Lock connector

one-way star washer.

wheel collar

to the nose gear

1/4"

as shown

and

set screw

socket head

to the

Page 17

Beech Fact:

been manufactured and over

cousins have been manufactured.

percentage are still flying today. Experts

factors contributing to the Bonanza's success

including Walter Beeches' reputation,

built to last forever Class-A

production^

Nearly

10,000

V-tail Bonanzas have

1,800

its

straight tailed

very

tooling ordered before the Bonanza

design and appearance, new

and its all-around performance.

the

large

cite

many

Bonanza's

went

into

MARK

1/8"

SPACER

NOSE GEAR RAIL

F11.

Thread a 4-40

metal

clevis

pushrod.

the other end of the pushrod to the Screw connector in the steering arm. Cut the pushrod about 1/4" past the connector. Make a slight bend in the pushrod near the Screw aligns with the hole in the connector. Temporarily secure the pushrod to the connector with a

set screw.

F12. Securely glue the nose steering servo tray

the servo rails. Make sure your servo is centered, and tighten up the 4 clevis with a drop of thread lock for extra security.

small

File

securely hold the set screws.

That was easy wasn't it? Now hook up the throttle.

It's just

55.

page

onto a

Connect the clevis to the servo. Connect

flat spots in the nose gear strut to

easy! Skip to

hex nu

.095

followed by a 4-40

nose steering

Lock connector soit

40 jam nut on the

Hook

The

Lock

Throttle

Retractable nose gear

Note:

While there are other retractable nose gear units that may work in the Top Flite Gold Edition Beechcraft, the Robart 631isshowninthis manual because it rotates 105 forthismodel. mounting position would have to be raised and the rails would have to be slanted upward toward the frontofthe model in ordertoachieve the scale appearance of the full size Beechcraft. These modifications are up

RI.Ifyou're using the Robart 631 nose gear

retract, mark a line 7-7/8" from one end of both 1/4"

9/16"x

position the pivot point of the 631 nose gear 7-7/8" from the aft edge of F2.

plywood

andisdesigned specifically

A 90 unit would work but the

you.

landing gear rails.

This will

R2. Glue one 114x9/16x2-1/ 4 plywood

and one 1/8"x9/16

spacer

on the end of both rails that you made the

spacer

mark on, but on the other side of the rail.

"x2-1/4" plywood

Bottom

R3. Temporarily place the landing gear rails

R4. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the rails to the

firewall and former F2 and the die

landing gear braces

to the rails and the firewall.

cut 1/8" plywood

rail rail

Page 18

R5.

Use small clamps to hold the nose gear to the rails aligns with the marks you made on the top of the rails. Mark the locations of the mounting holes on the landing gear rails.

holes at the marks you made. Temporarily mount your landing gear with nuts (not included).

interfere with the wheel and strut. Use a Dremel

Tool or a razor saw

accommodate the strut. Retract the nose gear and make sure it does not interferewith the firewall.

Note:

nose wheel is centered on the strut. On the Robart 631

wheel and the strut to center the wheel. The nose

wheel between the rails when retracted.

the pivot point (on the Robart

R6.

Remove the landing gear and drill

6-32

x 3/4

screws and blind

R7.

Remove the two

Adjust the

the nose wheel is neutral and make sure the

strut we inserted two#8washers between the

centering spring

mustbeneutral

3/16"stringers that

cut the firewall to

on your retracts

and

centered

631's)

5/32

to fit

Hint:

File or sand a slight bevel to the bottom

edges of the rails to guide the nose wheel, in case

R8. If disconnects handy, temporarily connect them to your nose gear air cylinder and actuate the nose gear with the air pump. This will give you a good

indication of any problem areas that you can

you have your air pump and some quick

correct now.

R9.

Cut plywood nose steering servo to the servo tray shaft is on the on the plan. See the photo at step the servo is

valve in the same location as in our prototype, drill a

1/2"

steering servo tray mount

3/16"off the aft edge of the die-cut

nose steering servo tray.

left

side of the servo tray as shown

offset

toward the aft edge of the servo

R10.

you would like to mount your air control

hole in the die-cut

118"

plywood

at the punch mark.

R11.

-54-

1/8"

Mount your

the output

Note that

right nose

R11.

Test fit the servo tray (with the servo) in the

die

cut

1/8" assembly in the servo rails. Position the mounts and the tray centered between the the servo tray and the mounts in this position.

R12. steering cable inner pushrod guide tube and slide the pieces through the holes in the firewall and former

plywood

Cut

F2.

Glue the tubes to the firewall and

servo tray mounts

the output shaft of the servo is

1/8"

holes in former

two

4-5/8"

pieces from the white nose

and fit the

F2.

Glue

F2.

CONNECT THE NOSE

STEERING

Several pull-pull steering cable systems are available that will work in your Bonanza. We selected the Sonictronics System.

R1.

Enlarge the hole in two Screw-Lock pushrod

connectors with a

lock connectors to a large servo arm and

screw fasten each with a nylon retainer. Connect one end

a14"

included with the pull

long pull-pull cable to a threaded rod

PULL-PULL

#121

Pro-Control

#46or5/64"drill bit. Mount the

pull steering set using the

Cable

Page 19

swage

to secure the cable. Fit the threaded rod into

one of the Screw

lock it down with a Connect another piece of cable to the other Screw

Lock connector the same way, then thread the cable through the guide tubes toward the nose gear strut.

R2.

Install a 0-80 threaded ball link ball (not included) onto the arm on both sides of the nose wheel strut with a 0 of both cables to the threaded ball links with the swages. Tighten the loop in the cable just enough

will not come Temporarily hook up the steering servo to your radio system and test the movement. Adjust the tension on the cables or make other adjustments

needed.

Note:

If your nose gear steering arms did not come

bent

90"

Lock connectors and temporarily

4-40

118" socket head screw.

80 nut. Connect the other end

off

the ball. Crimp the swages.

as shown, dosonow.

FINISH CONSTRUCTION

HOOKUPTHE THROTTLE

1. Mount your engine mount and engine to the

firewall. Mount your muffler

throttle pushrod will not interfere.

to make sure your

iteeringservo

This is the throttle servo location for fixed gear,

This is the throttle servo location for retractable gear.

Place your throttle servo tray with the servo in the rails. Connect the to your servo with a small, brass

connector.

pushrod

a 0 thread lock on the nut. Glue the throttle servo tray to the rails.

Connect the other end of the throttle

to the engine with a nylon

threaded ball

,074"

x 12"

and 0-80

throttle pushrod

ball socket

nut.

Use a drop of

Screw-Lock

and

MOUNT THE WING TO THE FUSE

Remember the wing? Goget it

the fuse.

Bevel the end ofboth

wingboltblocks

cut

1/8"

die

Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the wing bolt blocks and holders in the fuse where shown on the plan. See the photo at step

3. Place the wing in the wing saddle on the fuse. Observe sides that prevent the wing from fitting. Remove the wing and sand the high spots the fuse as accurately as possible. ply fuse side doublers.

used to align the stab? Get your string out and stick a T just ahead of the tail cone.

with the fuse the same way you did the stab.

weights over the center section

shifting during the next few steps. Keep your string handy

you proceed.

high spots

Remember the

pin in the center of the bottom, middle stringer

Use the arrow on the tape to align the wing

Once you have the wing aligned, place

plywood

you can recheck alignment as

theymatchtheangleofthe

wing bolt block holder.

in the saddle of the

1/2"

pin and

you

can mount it

2-1/4"

balsa

the wing matches

not sand the

string

method

keep it from

maple

fuse

you

Page 20

12. Spread a thin film of 30-minute epoxy on one

side of both wing dowel plates and fit them over the

dowels protruding through former F2D inside the fuse. Accurately mark the location of the plates on F2D.

crutch. Glue F1A Remove the crutch.

Cut the stringers from pieces of leftover 3/16

3/16"balsatofit from F1Atothe firewall. Glue the stringers in position while using triangle

stringers.

hold F IA perpendiculartothe top of the

to the side stringers only.

degree

7. Drill through top sheeting the wing with perpendicular to the wing bolt plate as you drill the head of the wing bolt will rest flat.

wing

in the wing bolt plate and the top sheeting with round file or a 17/64 drill. Replace the wing on the fuselage and bolt it down with the one 1/4" nylon wing bolt.

steps

10. Bolt the wing to your fuselage and leave the

wing bolts barely snug. Realign the wing.

11. Drill 1/4" holes through the 1/8" x 1"x2 plywood holes with a round file or a piece of sandpaper wrapped around something round such as

piece of brass tube. This will allow you toplug the

wing into the fuselage without too much resistance.

and

Remove the wing and tap threads into the

bolt

block witha1/4-20 tap. Enlarge the hole

Replace the #7

6, 7 and 8.

wing dowel plates. Slightly

only one

the wing bolt block on one side of

#7 drill. Keep the drill bit

drill

wing bolt plate, the

bit in your drill.

enlarge the

Repeat

pen or

13. Remove the wing. Clamp the wing dowel

plates

from the holes

F2D with C-clamps. Wipe excess epoxy

any is present.

SHEET THE FORWARD DECK AND

BOTTOM

1. Assemble your fuel tank. Position the tank

floor and the tank in the fuselage and determine

where holes with

drill the holes for the fuel lines. Drill the

1 / 4 drill (or 15/64"drill for abetter fit).

2. Remove the tank and tank floor. Position the

die

cut 1/8" plywood main side stringers F7A. Position the die on the fuse main side stringer soit contacts the

cabin crutch

the aft edge contacts former

cut

1/8"

plywood former

-56-

the fuse

FIA

4. Place 1/4" foam rubber on the tank floor. Test fit your fuel tank with with this kit. time,

year.

5. Sheet the forward

3/32

sand the front even with the firewall. Sand the back

even with FlA, but do not sand the rest of the sheeting until you fit the cabin.

Note:

you should replace them at least once

balsa. After you glue the sheeting in position,

#32

rubber bands

Rubber bands deteriorate over

fuse

deck with leftover

included

Page 21

6.Ifyou're installing retracts, turn the fuselage over and build a small balsa to support the sheeting around the nose wheel cutout.

7. Use leftover 1/16"balsa sheeting to seal the area around the nose gear between This will prevent fuel and exhaust residue from entering the fuselage.

framework

from leftover

and F2.

FIT

THE

1. Bevel one end offour 1/2"x1/2" basswood blocks sothey fit between the fuse main side stringers and formers F3 and F6 where shown on the plan. Glue the blocks in position.

2.Ifyour fuel tank is in the fuse, remove it for now.

TOP

5/8"

the edges, and screw it back onto the fuse. A little

at a time, mark, then trim the crutch until it accurately fits the fuse main side stringers.

Use scissors to cut the molded ABS

along the cutlines (which are most visible from

top

inside the cabin top). The cabin top will be slightly oversize to allow you to trim it for an exact fit to your model. Use a felt tip pen to mark the moldedin center marks at the front and aft edges of the cabin top

instructed to do

sheeting over former F2A (over the center stringer). Mark the center of the turtle deck sheeting over former F7A (over the center stringer).

not trim the cabin top to fit your fuse until

7. Lightly mark the center ofthe front fuse

they will be easier to see while fitting.

so.

cabin

Use leftover 3/32"balsa to sheet the bottom forward fuse, aft of the cowl. the nose wheel and strut

retracts.

Remove the tank and foam rubber. Coat the

inside of the fuselage between the firewall and former F2 including the back of the firewall with fuel proof paint, epoxy or finishing resin.

Cut

the wheel well for

you are installing

3. Place the die-cut on the fuselagesoit is centered and the edges slightly extend past the side stringers. Use masking tape to hold the cabin crutch to the fuselage.

1/8

plywood

cabin crutch

Drill four 1/16"holes through the crutch into

the center

you drill each hole, temporarily hold the crutch to

the fuse with a #2

crutch that need to be sanded for a perfect fit to the fuse main side stringers. Remove the crutch, sand

the blocks you glued to the fuse. After

1/2" screw.

Use a ballpoint pen to mark areas of the

-57-

Position the die-cut

former

former F7A. Lightly sand the edges of F7B is approximately a and F7A to accommodate the cabin top.

forward cabin former

same way.

crutch. Place a piece

F7B

on top of the crutchsoit contacts

Test fit and shape the die-cut

10. Reposition the aft cabin former on top of the

1/8"

plywood

/16" difference between F7B

F2B

to former F2A the

thin cardboard between the

aft cabin

1/8"

plywood

there

Page 22

aft cabin former and F7A. The thickness of the cardboard should be approximately 1/64 This is toprovide a little clearance for painting and covering. Trace the outline of F7A onto the piece of cardboard. Cut approximately 1/4" outside of the

line you drew. Reposition the cardboard shim and glue the aft cabin former in place.

11.

Make a shim and glue the front cabin former

to the crutch the same way.

12.

Temporarily position some balsa sticks between the front and aft cabin formers to make sure they and the shims tightly contact the fuse. You are going the more accurately they fit the fuse, the more accurately your cabin top will fit the fuse.

the crutch with the shim

fit the cabin top tothe shims

"or.015".

centerline on the cabin top aligns with the centerline on the fuse. Use a lead pencil areas of the front of the cabin top that need to be sanded for a perfect fit. the areas you marked, erase the pencil marks, and

reposition the cabin top. Continue to mark, sand

and fit the cabin top until the front fits well.

14. Perform the same procedure to the aft edge of the rear of the cabin top until it fits the rear cardboard shim and the cabin top drops into place.

15.

With the cabin top on the fuse, make your pencil marks where the bottom needs to be trimmed. Sand the bottom edges of the cabin top until it fits.

16.

Thoroughly roughen the entire inside of the cabin top with 220 will stick.

Carefully

grit sandpaper soglue and paint

and

lightly

mark

sand

This will allow you to accurately fit the windows later, but do not enlarge the openings yet roughlycut them along the cutlines for now.

just

MOUNT THE CABIN TOP

Remove the screws that temporarily hold the crutch 3/4" the holes. Using the holes in the crutch as a guide, drill 1/16

just

fuse with the screws.

the hole through the crutch and the blocks in the fuse with a temporarily insert a 4 to hold the crutch in alignment as you drill the rest of the holes.

the fuse. Glue four pieces of

3/4" leftover

holes up through the

glued on. Temporarily screw the crutch to the

One at a time, remove a screw, and enlarge

1/8"

plywood to the crutch over

1/8"

ply pieces you

1/8"

drill. After you drill each hole

40x3/4" Phillips head screw

13.

Position the cabin

front contacts the cardboard shim and the

top

on the fuse sothe

17.

Use a Dremel tool with a carbide cutter or a similar type of rotary tool, or small scissors to cut the window openings along the cutlines inside the cabin top. The window outlines in the cabin top are about

smaller than the windows themselves.

58-

3. Remove the crutch from the fuse and press

40 blind nuts into the holes in the top of the

crutch. Glue them with a little thin CA.

Lightly

crutch formers Place the crutch on the fuse with the cardboard shims. Slip a piece of wax paper between the shim and crutch formers at the back and front of the crutch. Fasten the crutch to the fuse sides with four

spray the edges of the crutch and

F7B

and

F2B

with CA accelerator.

Page 23

4-40

3/4"

from inside the bottom of the fuse (we use a long Great Planes

GPMR8002). Position the cabin top on the crutch.

Tape the cabin top to the fuse sides.

5. medium CA bottle. simultaneously press the side of the cabin top down and to the side and glue the cabin top to the crutch with a small fillet of medium CA. small section at a time, making sure the crutch is pressed down to the fuse main side stringer as you glue. You should be able to reach all areas of the crutch through the window cutouts. Since you pre-

primed the crutch with CA accelerator, you should

have to hold the parts together for only a few seconds. Glue both sides the crutch.

Note:

the top not to glue the cabin sides or the crutch to the fuse main side stringer. This should not be a problem you do not use too much CA.

cap screws and washers accessible

3/32"Hexdriver Ball Wrench,

Make sure you have aCAapplicator on your

not build up a large fillet of CA between

the crutch and the cabin sides. Be careful

little section at a time,

the cabin top to

only a

Glue the cabin top to the front and aft cabin formers. Hint: It will be easier to glue the cabin formers to the cabin top fuselage on its nose and on its tail cone.

Remove the cabin top and add medium CA areas you couldn't reach before. Fasten the cabin top to the fuse and lightly sand the fuse to match the cabin top.

Cut

accommodate the fuel tank.

the front cabin former and the crutch

you carefully place the

-59-

FIT

THE

WIND0

Note: The windows are individually cut and glued

to the inside of the cabin top.

Cut each of the molded clear plastic windows along the cutlines which are approximately 1/8" outside of the raised edges. Sand the edges smooth and even with 220 care not to scratch the windows.

Fit the bottomofoneofthe windows in the bottom of the matching window opening in the cabin top. Observe how much the top, front and aft edges of the window openings must be trimmed

Remove the window and use a rotary tool with a sanding drum dowel to enlarge only the top, front and aft edges

fits. cutouts

the window will fit the rest of the way in.

sandpaper wrapped around a

the window opening until the window accurately

not trim the bottom edge of the window

the windows remain in line.

Fit the rest of the windows the same way.

Beech

Fact:

first met at the Kansas based Travel Air 1920's. was the office manager. They married in

1932,

Olive formed the Beech Aircraft

into production was the Model

wing biplane which later became known as the Beech

Staggerwing.

WalterH.Beech and Olive Ann Mellor

Thete, Walter served as president and Olive

with

two

other business associates, Walter and

grit sandpaper. Use

Co.,

whose first plane

17R

negative-stagger

Co.inthe

1930.

late

Page 24

SHEET THE BOTTOM

THE WING CENTER SECTION

1. Install your servo extension cords,

connectors and air linesifyou are installing

retracts. The servo extension cords don't have to be connected have to be connected to the retracts but they should be installed Plan this carefully. Be certain you have connected both aileron extension cords into the same "Y" connector and both flap extension cords into the same "Y" connector. Give yourself plenty of slack on the wires and air lines connect everything after you cover your model.

the servos and the air lines don't

you can finish the sheeting.

you will be able

MAKE THE BELLY PAN

1. Bolt the wing tothe fuselage. Place the diecut 1/8" plywood front of the wing

F2. Trim the bottom of F2W

the bottom fuselage sheeting

belly pan sheeting). Carefully glue

the wing.

belly pan former

it is resting against fuse former

(to

pan

F2W

it sits 3/32"below

accommodate the

F2Wtoonly

on the

4. With the wing off the fuse, sand one of the 1

1-3/4" x 2

curvature of the right side of the fuse at the leading

edge of the wing. Bolt the wing

the side and rear of the wing fairing block

between the wing and the fuse as shown in

the photo. Glue the wing fairing block

wing only.

wing fairing blocks

to match the

the fuse. Sand

it fits

to the

2. Sheet the bottom of the wing center section with two 3/32 3/32

" that goes over the wing bolts, first cut two lengths from the 9/16"diameterx8

tube.

tubes. Glue the cardboard tubes and wing bolt plates. After the glue dries, cut and sand the tubes flush with the sheeting.

Hint:

the ends of the bottom aft sheet correct spacing at the ends of the flaps.

"x3

balsaifneeded. Before you glue the sheet

Glue that sheet in position with the cardboard

Temporarily fit the flaps to the wing and cut

"x30"balsa sheets and leftover

cardboard

the sheeting

provide the

2. From a 3/16 6-1/2" piece, two 4-3/4" pieces and two 2-1/4" pieces to make the end of the stringers of the bottom of the wing. Glue them in position.

Hint:

Place a piece of sandpaper on the bottom of the wing and move the stringers back and forth, sanding them to the correct shape.

3. Sheet the belly pan with leftover 3/32"balsa sheeting. filler. After the filler dries, remove the wing and sand the belly pan

"x3/16

"x30"balsa stick, cut one

belly pan stringers.

they conform to the shape

Feather

the edges with lightweight hobby

blend with the fuse.

Sand one

-60-

Remove the wing and sand the wing fairing block to match the shape of the The fairing block extends below the bottom sheeting, bottom of the wing with filler. Shape and fit the other fairing block the same way.

pan to the wing and sand it smooth after it dries.

blend it tothe belly pan and the

6. Use lightweight hobby fillertoblend the belly

top

of the wing.

Page 25

BUILD AND FIT THE COWL TO THE

FUSELAGE

3. Tape the cowl together with masking tape. Test fit the cowl thin CA.

the fuse. Glue the seams with

Note:

the head of the engine, the needle valve or carburetor interferes with the cowl, remove them for the time being.

Cut the molded

side, and front along the cutlines (seen from the

inside). Cut a notch in the top of the right cowl half and the bottom do not interfere. On the left cowl sides, cut about 1/8" aft of the cutlines. This gives you a little extra material to work with you can accurately fit the cowl to the fuse. Cut the openings in the front of the cowl. use a rotary hand tool with a cutting burr followed by a sanding drum. Sand the edges straight and even.

2. Thoroughly sand all areas that are to be

glued, including a 1/2" strip along the inside edges

the cowl, so the fiberglass reinforcement tape

will stick.

ABS

cowl

left side, right

the left cowl halfsothe lap joints

aft

edgesofthe right and

you have one,

they are

Test fit the die-cut on the firewall. cowl rings balsa fuselage sides approximately 1/16 cowl rings to the firewall.

With

fuselage. Mark the high spots on the aft edge of the

cowl where you need to remove material

accurately fits the fuselage and aligns with the

backplate of your spinner. At first the cowl will be

too long but as you zero

backplate of your spinner on your engine to help you align the front of the cowl. This is a cut procedure that takes a little time, but it's one of those areas where you can really show your craftsmanship. Take your time and remove small amounts of material at a time.

they are inset from the edges of the

the engine mounted, fit the cowl to the

1/8"

necessary, sand the edges of the

plywood

cowl

rings

. Glue the

in on the fit, place the

and-fit

6. Test fit eight 1/2"

mount

blocks

Sand the blocks cowl. Glue them in place. Mark the center cowl mount block on the fuselage. Test fit the cowl to the fuselage interferes with the cowl.

Securely tape the cowl to the fuselage. Using the marks as a guide, drill cowl and the cowl mount blocks

aft edge of the cowl. Hint: After you drill each hole, screw in a #2 accurately aligned as you proceed.

8. Remove the cowl and enlarge the holes

the

cowl

only

with a 3/32"drill bit.

Test fit the cowl to see how it fits. Use #2 x

3/8" screws to hold it in place.

in the notches in the cowl ring.

1/2"x5/8"

they match the shape of the

make sure none of the blocks

1/16

holes through the

1/4"

in front of the

3/8" screw to keep the cowl

maple

cowl

each

Page 26

10.

If the bottom of the cowl to clear the landing gear wire. whatever material is necessary nose strut and steering arm will clear the cowl.

you have fixed landing gear, cutaslot in

you have retractable landing gear, remove

11.

Remove the cowl and make a template out

thin cardboard to locate the needle valve.

the retractable

13. Remove the cowl and cut the hole for the

needle valve. Start with a small hole. Mount the

cowl to the fuselage and check your accuracy.

Enlarge the hole while you simultaneously change its position if necessary.

14. Use the same template method to make holes for the glow plug, exhaust, fueling system and engine head fuel filler valve and retract fill valve are up to you, but we have provided die

mounting brackets

the SuperTigre one area, portion of the fins without any

necessary. The location for the

cut

1/8"

for these items. The head on

.75 barely

we just ground away that small

contacted the cowl in

ill

effect.

plywood

16. Fill the seams in the cowl with Bondo filler. There are other fillers that you can use, but we have found that Bondo works the best. Squadron Green or White putty also works well but it takes

longer putty for smaller parts like the tail cone.

Here are some tips for applying the Bondo to your

cowl:

with 150

Bondo.

2. Mix the Bondo as much time as possible to apply it.

enough to fill one seam at a time.

dry and shrinks. You could use Squadron

Thoroughly

Bondo cures withinafew minutes,somix only

roughen all seams and other areas

grit sandpaper where you will apply

thoroughly

but

rapidly

to allow

15.

Make sure you have thoroughly sanded the

inside seams of the fuselage. Use 30

wide

to glue inside the cowl. Add inside of the cowl over the holes for the cowl mount screws. Redrill the holes after the epoxy cures.

fiberglass cloth

squares of glass cloth

minute epoxy

over all the seams

-62-

4. Use an expired credit card or a piece

spatula

as build up a slight moundover the seam.

5. Apply only enough Bondo to fill the seams and uneven edges. It's easier to apply

than it is to sand

to apply Bondo. Bend your spatula to

gobs

of it off.

plastic

second coat

Page 27

Wet-sanding is best. Start with 150-grit sandpaper. Transition to finer grits as you proceed and finish with 400 done, your cowl should look something like the one in the photo spots near the seams.

Note:

Refer to the the fuse plan. cutout in the bottom of the cowl for the nose wheel will be large enough for cooling the engine. In this case the cowl flaps are optional.

have to build either the allow adequate air exit. The aft cowl flaps are cut in the bottom of the fuse and are in the scale location.

you add the aft cowl flaps you will have to cut

holes in the firewall to allow the air to exit through the aft cowl flaps. The forward cowl flaps are cut in the cowl and are not in the scale location, but are

easier to build.

You've come a long way. This is the end of the construction portion of the model more woodwork. It's all just details and other last minute stuff before your Bonanza will be ready to paint and cover!

grit sandpaper. When you're

just enough Bondo left to

cowl flaps

you are installing retracts, the

allow an adequate air exit

you are installing fixed gear you will

aftorforward

fill

in the low

on the side view of

cowl flaps to

there's no

FINISHING

FUELPROOFING

You may fuelproof your model before or after you cover it. Fuelproof all areas that may be exposed to fuel or engine exhaust such as the wheel wells, wing bolt recesses in the wing, the firewall, fuel tank compartment, the front of the belly pan and former F2 in the fuse, etc. Use thinned 30 epoxy, finishing resin or fuelproof model paint.

Note:

Fuelproof the wheel wells and flap wells

before

you cover the wing. Otherwise, the paint may soak through the balsa and add blemishes to your covering.

CABIN DETAILS

you have decided toinstall the Top Flite

Beechcraft Bonanza Scale Interior Kit, you may do

at any time, but some required cover and paint your model. It is not necessary to permanently install the interior kit at this time, but you should at least fit it and prepare it for painting.

Refer

the Scale Interior Kit.

perform this step. full Cabin Interior, glue the die

instrument panel

the plan. Use the to make the as a manila folder. Lightly spray the glareshield with CA accelerator. Glue it and the cabin top. Add whatever other details you

we recommend you install it before you

the installation instructions included with

Make sure your windows are fitted

glareshield

fitting and maneuvering

you're not going to install the

the crutch where shown on

glareshield template

cut

from thin cardboard such

the instrument panel

minute

before

1/8"

plywood

on the plan

you

would like to the cockpit and mount your pilots piece of leftover fuselage sides.

1/8"

plywood glued between the

SCALE DETAILS

Antennas

This is the fun part

rushing to get your model finished for competition).

There are many scale details you can add

Bonanza that will really bring it to life. We added

the antennas and the air scoop as shown on the

plans. The air scoop is the only one of these that is included with your kit and is molded in two halves. Build the air scoop the same as the cowl and tail cone. The antenna then primed and painted white. Use maple, basswood, or a similar dense grain hardwood. Drill

1/16

a tubes. When your scale details are finished, mount them

We recommend that you do not the antennas to your model, so you can replace or repair them in case of hanger rash.

hole for antennas made from

1/16

your model with double-sided tape, or

double-sided foam tape, or rubber cement.

(if

you're not staying up late

bases

were carved from wood,

permanently

Cowl

The

louvers

the louvers out or just paint them black.

Scale Lighting

We've provided details for how tomount your wing tip lights while you were building the wing. The rest

of the wire routing and hookups are easy because everything else is open and accessible. Fit the rest

are molded into the cowl. You can cut

1/16

your

brass

mount

-63-

Page 28

of the wiring and lights. circuit boards and the battery holders, relocate them in case you need to adjust the C.G. Follow the instructions that come with the lighting kit to hook up and operate your lights.

Temporarily

mount the

you can

FINAL SANDING

Nearly all imperfections in your wood structure will show through the covering. Make one last check of the entire structure. Repair dings or scratches with filler. Sand all surfaces with progressively finer grits of sandpaper.

When you cover smaller parts with square edges

such as the elevators and ailerons, cover the ends

with separate pieces first. Then all you have to do

is wrap the covering around the top and bottom and iron it down.

When you cover sharp junctions like where the stab meets the fuse, cut narrow strips of covering (3/8” to 1/2" and apply them in the corners you cover the major surfaces. The larger pieces of covering will overlap the smaller pieces. This technique also eliminates the need to cut the covering after it has been applied.

before

PAINTING

COVER YOUR MODEL WITH

MONOKOTE FILM

is assumed that you are an intermediate to advanced modeler, details on covering techniques, but here are some tips you should consider:

Most importantly,

DIRECTLY ON THE SHEETING.

depends greatly upon the sheeting for its strength.

Modelers who do this tend to cut into the sheeting and this will weaken the structure.

2. Remove all dust from the structure with a vacuum with a brush attachment, compressed air or a Top Flite Tack Cloth.

3. Use a Top Flite Hot Sock to minimize dents in the wood from the iron.

4. Some modelers have three irons going at once: one on high heat without a Hot Sock for stretching the covering around curves like wingtips; one on

medium heat with a Hot Sock for bonding the covering to large sheeted areas like the wing and stab; and a Trim Iron for small areas.

When you cover large sheeted surfaces such as the wing, bond the covering in the middle and work outward pushing out air as you proceed.

move the iron in a circular motion but move it span-

wise with the grain of the wood.

we won’t go into many

NEVER

CUT

THE COVERING

The Bonanza

not

Recommended Covering Sequence:

Fuselage

Tail junction strips as described above

Stab bottoms, then tops

3. Fin

(if

straight tail) right, then left side Fuse bottomaft, then front Fuse sides Turtle deck (may be done in one or two pieces) Front deck aft of cowl

Wing

Hidden areas and flap and aileron area

2. Bottom of center section

3. Bottom including the wing tips

Top of the center section

Top of one, then the other outer panel including the wing tips

corners

one, then the other outer panel

such the TE in the

Control Surfaces

Ends, bottoms, then tops of elevators, flaps and

ailerons

2. End and bottom of tip, then one side, then the other side of the rudder (if straight tail)

3. Flap and aileron servo hatch covers

At this stage all your plastic pieces should have the seams filled with Bondo or putty. Spray all the molded plastic parts and scale accessories with at least one coat of primer. We used Top Flite LustreKote on just about everything that needed

be painted. Wet-sand between coats with 400grit sandpaper. Use Great Planes 1/8” EZ Flexible Masking Tape (GPMRI fine lines, Kyosho Masking Cover Sheet (KYOR1040) for quickly masking large areas, a Top Flite Tack Cloth (TOPR2185) just before paining, and LustreKote paint for a MonoKote matching finish.

For painting the pilots we recommend acrylic water base paints such as the types found in craft stores.

This type of paint looks great on a pilot because it

is not glossy, and best of all, it cleans up with

water.

We recommend gluing the clear plastic wing tip

lenses We used strips of Top Flite MonoKote Trim Sheets to cover the clear wing tip lenses. Part of the wing tips are to remain clear.

your wing before you cover or paint them.

000)

Mask

for masking

remove dust

Page 29

JOIN THE CONTROL SURFACES

(HINGING)

These instructions mention the V-tail which uses two torque rods instead of a single joiner wire as used on the straight straight tail, follow these instructions except where the torque rods are mentioned.

AWAY

FROM THE

Start with the stab and elevators. Remove a small strip of covering from the hinge slots. For the V

tail, remove a small strip of covering where the

plastic bearingtubes contact the TE.

THE

CA WICKS

ALONG THE"TUNNELS

TO THE ENTIRE

HINGE

Q2.

Drill a 3/32"hole

hinge slots on the stab and elevators. A high speed

Tool@

Dremel

withacutting burr works best for this,

but you can use a drill or a sharpened brass tube

instead.

tail.Ifyou're building the

SLOT

ASSEMBLE, THEN APPLY6DROPS

THIN CA TO CENTER

HINGE, ON BOTH SIDES

SURFACE

1/2"

deep in the center of the

__I

3.Ifyou are building the V-tail, use coarse sandpaper to roughen the part of the torque rods that will be inserted into the ruddervators and the plastic bearing tubes. straight

tail, roughen the joiner wire. Use a

you are building the

toothpick to dab a small amount of petroleum jelly on the ends of the V

tail plastic bearing tubes to

keep epoxy out.

Fit the hinges in only the stab or elevators

(without glue). Fill the torque rod holes in the

elevators with 30

minute epoxy. Install the torque

rods in the elevators. Wipe away excess epoxy

with a cloth dampened with alcohol.

Join the elevators to the stab with the hinges.

necessary, insert a pin in the center of the hinges

to keep them centered in the elevator and stab.

1/64

Make sure there is approximately a between the elevators and the stab

gap

you do not

glue them together.

6. Cut a paper towel into 2"squares. Add six

drops of thin CA to the center of the hinges on

both the top and bottom.

Use the paper towel squares to absorb excess CA from the hinge gap before it cures.

not useCAaccelerator on any of the hinges

and do not glue the hinges with anything but

CA.

thin

not attempt to glue one half of the hinge at a time. The hinges will not be properly secured and could come out while the model is

in flight.

-65-

Glue the bearing tubes tothe TE with a dab of

minute epoxy.

Use the same hinging method to join the rudder to the fin (if building the straight tail) and the ailerons to the wing.

coarse sandpaper. Mix enough 30

Thoroughly roughen the flap hinges with

minute epoxy to do one flap at a time. Use a piece of leftover wire to thoroughly coat the holes in one of the flaps and the holes in the wing with the epoxy. Coat one side of the flap hinges with epoxy and insert them into the wing. Coat the other side of the hinges with epoxy and join the flap. Wipe away excess epoxy before it cures.

10.

Position the flap and the hinges sothe flap is centered and fits the wing. Tape the flap in place until the epoxy is fully cured.

11.

Join the other flap to the wing the same way.

12.

Reinstall any pushrods you may have

disconnected while covering, and mount the control

horns to the ailerons.

GLUE IN THE WINDOWS

Use a special canopy glue such as

Products

RC/56

(JOZR5007)to glue the windows

to the cabin top. This kind of glue is formulated for

plastic and dries clear. Wipe away excess glue with

tissue dampened with water before it dries. Use masking tape to hold the windows to the inside of the cabin top until the glue is dry.

use CA, use medium CA (not thin). Use it

sparingly

and

do not

use accelerator.

you decide to

Page 30

Trim the clear plastic

cone.

tail lens

fit

the tail

MAKE DOOR AND HATCH OUTLINES

Use a Top Flite Panel Line Pen to draw the door and baggage compartment hatch outlines or use a Smart Stripe Film and iron them on. Pen, use a straightedge with a few pieces of masking tape stuck to the underside of the straightedge to keep the ink from underneath it. Use the Top Flite Scale Template for rivets, hatches, fuel caps and other details. Some cleaners will remove the ink lines cleaner before you spray it on your model. You can remove mistakes with alcohol. You'll need to touch up some of the lines from time to time because they fade with lots of handling and fuel spillage.

to cut narrow strips of MonoKote

you use the Panel Line

wicking

test your

APPLY THE DECALS

The decal sheet does not give you everything you need to completely trim your model, but it does provide most

of the intricate detailing and difficult items.

Study your documentation package and the photos on the box to decide where to place the decals.

2. Thoroughly clean your airplane before applying decals.

Cut out the decals and carefully apply them to your model. You can by first applying soapy water (just a teaspoon of dish detergent to a quart of water) to the model's surface. piece of soft balsa or a credit card wrapped with a tissue. Blot the surface dry and let the decal cure for at least 12 hours before running the engine.

Squeegy

float

the decals into position

out

the water and soap with a

GET YOUR MODEL

READY

BALANCE YOUR MODEL

NOTE: This section is VERY important and must NOT be omitted! properly balanced will be unstable and possibly unflyable.

FLY

model that is not

6-3/8"

(162

mm) back from the leading edge at

the wing root

plans. This is the balance point at which your

model should be balanced for your first flights. Later, you may experiment by shifting the balance up to 1/2" forward or 1/4" back to change the flying

characteristics.

forward

tracking, but your Bonanza may then require more speed for takeoff and become more difficult to slow down for landing. If you move the balance

may make the Bonanza more agile with a lighter

feel

and allow you to slow the model more for

landing. In any case,

we recommend and do not at any time balance your model outside the recommended range.

How to mark the balance point.

point is measured from the Since the center section of the wing is not visible when the wing is on the fuse, you need to mark the balance point outward a few inches can see where to lift the wing when it's bolted to the fuse. To do this, mark the balance point with

tip pen or tape on

a felt section. Place a straightedge across the marks. Mark the balance point along the straightedge further out on the wing. Mount the wing to the fuselage.

as shown in the sketch and on the

it may improve the smoothness and

you move the balance point

aft

please start at the location

center leading edge.

both ends

The balance

you

of the center

Use the plans to make templates of the doors and the luggage hatch from a clear butyrate plastic sheet. Sand the edges of the templates with 320 sandpaper. Stick a few layers of masking tape to the bottom of the templates near the edges to raise it off the surface. This will prevent the ink from underneath. Cut

you can tape them in position without the tape extending over the edges. Position the templates on the fuse. Trace the outlines with a Top Flite Panel Line Pen.

hole in the center of the templates

grit

wicking

1. See the

mark the balance point on the both sides of the fuselage. The balance point is shown on the plan

Hot Tip

that follows to accurately

top

of the wing on

(CG),

and is located

2. Temporarily place your receiver and battery pack inside the fuselage where you plan to mount them, or lay them on the fuselage over the location you plan to mount them. This is the mounting location of the battery pack or

receiver to change the C.G. without adding any additional nose or tail weight. You can do the same with lighting system components as well (if you are

installing the lighting package). Otherwise, all other components should be in the model and it should

be in a ready

empty.

-to-

fly condition with the fuel tank

you can change

Page 31

3. With the wing attached to the fuselage, lift the model at the balance point. We use the Great Planes C.G. Machine

this. If the tail drops, the model is tail heavy and

must shift your battery pack or other

you components forward or add weight to the nose. the nose drops, it is nose heavy and you must shift your battery pack or other components aft or add weight to the tail. In order to save weight, relocate

your battery pack and/or receiver or other components before you add additional weight to arrive at the correct C.G. You may easily install nose weight by using a spinner weight or gluing lead weights to the firewall. You may add tail weight by sticking on Great Planes (GPMQ4485) stick

on lead weights on the bottom of the fuselage

under the tail. Later, if the balance proves to be

OK,

you can open the fuse bottom and glue these in permanently. Never stick weights to the cowl because it is not designed to support weight.

(shown in the sketch) for

BALANCE THE AIRPLANE

LATERALLY

INSTALL YOUR RECEIVER, BATERY

PACK AND RETRACT COMPONENTS

The location of your receiver and battery pack may

be determined by the C.G. On our prototypes we

mounted the battery pack and receiver nearly as far forward as possible. With this arrangement, no additional ballast was required to achieve the

recommended C.G. If this is where you wish to

mount your battery pack and receiver, you may use

mounting plates

the

fashion your own method to secure your battery

pack and receiver.

Securely

back

the die-cut

plate.

provided with this kit or

glueadie-cut

1/8"

plywood

radio mounting

plate

Secure your battery pack to the mounting

plate with rubber in between. Test fit the battery pack and

mounting plate in the front of the fuse as shown in the photo. fuse side doubler.

your receiver antenna through the antenna tube.

Note:

reinstall your receiver or battery pack, first hook the

rubber bands to the tabs on the mounting plate.

Next, stretch the rubber bands and slide your

battery pack and receiver underneath.

few rubber bands and

Securely

Install your receiver the same way. Route

in the future you have to remove, then

glue the mounting plate to the

1/4"

thick foam

Mount your wing.

With the wing level, model by the engine propeller shaft and the fin or tail cone (this may require two people). this several times.

one wing always drops when you lift the

3. model, that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by gluing weight inside the other wing tip.

airplane that has been laterally balanced

carefully

lift the

will

track better in loops and other maneuvers.

Cut the two 3/4". Glue the dowels into the holes you drilled in the bottom of former servo trays Temporarily strap the air tank in place using two

rubber bands.

1/8"

dowels to a length of

F6.

they are even with the servo rails.

Cut the aft edges of the

Page 32

CHANNEL RADIO SETUP

(STANDARD

MODE2,V-TAIL

SETUP)

12. Adjust your pushrod hookups and set up your radio to provide the control surface movements as follows.

Mount your air control

valve

and servo. On our prototype we mounted the air control valve to the right nose steering servo tray. Mount yours the same way or find an alternate location. Mount the

before

1/4"

3/8"

you mount

servo to two rails made from leftover basswood.

Note:

It will be easier to connect your air lines to the air control valve the air control valve in the airplane.

6. Mount your on/off switch and charge jack in a location where it will not get covered with engine exhaust residue.

Connect your battery pack, receiver, switch and

servos. Connect the air lines to your air tank with a

"T"

fitting connected to your air fill valve. If you are

installing the Cabin Interior, route the air lines and

servo cords through notches in the formers.

Recheck the C.G.

9.Ifyou haven't already centered your servos, take the servo arms off all the servos and turn on your transmitter and receiver (this is most important for the flaps). Center the trims and put the servo arms back on your servos and secure them with the screw.

10. While you're at it, double-check all the

servos and make the servo arms are secured and

make sure all the clevises have a

silicone

retainers.

11. Make sure the control surfaces move in the proper direction as illustrated in the following sketches.

LEFT RUDDERVATOR MOVES UP RIGHT RUDDERVATOR MOVES UP

RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN

LEFT RUDDERVATOR MOVES UP RIGHT RUDDERVATOR MOVES DOWN

NOSE WHEEL TURNS RIGHT

CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN

4-CHANNEL RADIO

(STANDARD

MODE

ELEVATOR MOVES UP

RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP LEFT AILERON MOVES

RUDDER MOVES RIGHT NOSE WHEEL TURNS RIGHT

CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN

SETUP

V-TAIL

These control surface throws are for the

CONTROL SURFACE THROWS

V-tail

model only. We recommend the following control surface throws:

NOTE:

Throws are measured at the

widest part

of the control surface.

High Rate Low Rate

ELEVATOR:

15/16"up 518" u p 15/16"down 5/8" down

AILERONS:

3/4" u p 1/2" u p 3/4" down 1/2" down

FLAPS: Takeoff Landing

1" down 2"down

Right Left Elevator Elevator

RIGHT RUDDER:*

LEFT RUDDER:*

*This is the amount

1/4" down 1/4" up

3/4"up

elevator throw with ruddet

1/2" down

input only.

Caution:

your Bonanza at the flying field.

lay the fuselage upside down resting

Use care when you assemble

NOT

on the cabin top, as this could cause the windows to loosen.

Page 33

STRAIGHT TAIL CONTROL SURFACE

THROWS:

These control surface throws are for the

model only. We recommend the following

tail

:ontrol surface throws:

NOTE:

Throws are measured at the

the control surface.

ELEVATOR:

RUDDER:

AILERONS:

FLAPS: Takeoff

NOTE: This applies to both the V-tail and straight tail.

TRIM MIXING:

Elevator mixing, we recommend mixing

down

elevator at half flaps and 1/16"of elevator at full flaps. This will keep the nose level when the flaps are deployed.

The surface throws and balance point listed in this manual are the ones at which the

Bonanza flies best. Set up your aircraft to those specifications. you would like to adjust the throws to suit your tastes, that is fine. The Bonanza has large elevators and does not require much

throw. Too much throw can force it into a

stall,

High Rate

11/16"up 1 1 /16" down

1"right

left

3/4"

314"

down

1"down

your transmitter has flap to

remember...

Low Rate

9/16"up 9/16

3/4"

314"

1/2" up 112" down

Landing

If,

after a few flights,

is not better.

widest part

down

right left

down

straight

1/32

down

PREFLIGHT

CHARGE YOUR BATTERIES

Follow the battery charging procedures in your radio instruction manual. You should charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the night before you go flying, and at other times as recommended by the radio manufacturer.

BALANCE YOUR PROPELLERS

Carefully balance your propellers before you fly. An unbalanced prop is the single most significant cause of vibration that can damage your model.

Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen, possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may also damage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration can also cause your fuel

will, in turn, cause your engine

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop

Balancer' a Great Planes Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.

(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep

run hot or quit.

FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY

The best place to fly your modelisan AMA chartered R/C club flying field. Contact the AMA (their address is on page dealer for the club in your area and join it. Club fields are intended for R/C flying, making your outing safer and more enjoyable. The AMA also provides insurance in case of a flying accident. an RIC flying field is not available, find a large,

or your hobby shop

always

foam, which

grassy area at least six miles from buildings,

streets, and other RIC activities. A schoolyard is usually not an acceptable area because of people, power lines and possible radio interference.

GROUND CHECK YOUR MODEL

If you are not thoroughly familiar with the operation of R/C models, ask an experienced modeler control surface set

manufacturer's instructions to break engine.

inspect your model closely remain tight and your pushrods and connectors are secure.

inspect your radio installation and

After you run the engine on your model,

up.

Follow the engine

make sure all screws

in your

RANGE CHECK YOUR RADIO

Ground check the range of your radio before the

first flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able the model and still have control. Have an assistant stand by your model and, while you work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are doing.

Repeat this test

various speeds with an assistant holding the

model, using hand signals happening. correctly, first.

Look

wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors,

poor solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell in your battery pack, or a damaged

receiver crystal from a previous crash.

walk at least 100 feet away from

with the engine running

the control surfaces do not respond

do not fly!

for loose servo connections or broken

Find and correct the problem

show you what is

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

NOTE: Failure to follow these safety

precautions may result in severe injury to

yourself and others.

Store model fuel in a safe place away from high heat, sparks or flames. engine or fuel as it is very flammable. Engine

not smoke near the

Page 34

exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly carbon

monoxide

so do not run the engine in a closed

room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when you

learn to operate engines.

Use safety glasses when you operate model

engines.

not run the engine near loose gravel or sand; the propeller may throw loose material in your face or eyes.

When you start and run the engine, keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from the plane of rotation of the propeller.

Always be

movements and be

and very

deliberate

conscious

of hand

in your reach for the

aware

needle valve, glow plug clip, or other items near a

spinning propeller.

Keep loose clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs,

long hair or loose objects away from the prop. Be conscious of pencils, screw drivers or other objects that may fall out of your shirt or jacket pockets.

Use a

chicken stick

or electric starter and follow

the instructions to start your engine.

Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is

secure

that it will not pop off or get into the

running propeller.

Ask an assistant to hold the model from the rear

while you start the engine and operate the controls.

Make all engine adjustments from

behind

the

rotating propeller.

The engine gets hot!

not touch the engine

during or immediately after you operate it. Make

sure fuel lines are in good condition

fuel will not

leak onto a hot engine and cause a fire.

To stop the engine, close the carburetor barrel

(rotor) or pinch the fuel line to discontinue the fuel flow.

not use your (or any body ekes') hands, fingers or any body part to stop the engine. Never throw anything into the prop of a running engine.

FLYING

The Top Flite Beechcraft Bonanza is a great flying sport scale airplane that flies smoothly and

predictably, yet is highly maneuverable. Compared to other scale models, its flight characteristics are docile and forgiving. The Bonanza also has excellent slow speed flight characteristics. It does

not, however, have the self

of a primary

R/C

trainer; therefore, you must either

have mastered the basics of R/C flying or obtained the assistance of a competent R/C pilot to help you

until you are able to safely and competently pilot the model by yourself.

FUEL MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT

A fully cowled engine may run at a higher temperature than an un-cowled engine. For this

reason, the fuel mixture should be richened

engine runs at about

By running the engine slightly rich, you will help

prevent dead stick landings caused by overheating.

you have dual rates on your transmitter, set the

switches to taking off in a crosswind. Although this model has good low speed characteristics, you should always

build up as much speed as your runway will permit

before lifting off. This will give you a safety margin

in case of a

available runway as possible and practical. When the plane has sufficient flying speed, lift off by

smoothly applying up elevator (don't

a steep climb!), and climb out gradually.

high rate"for takeoff, especially when

flame-out."Use as much of the

recovery characteristics

200

rpm below peak speed.

TAKEOFF

"jerk" it off into

the

not use

flaps for your initial takeoff. After you have the feel of the Bonanza, takeoffs may be made with the flaps set at

Never use

100%

flaps for takeoff

50%.

,ecause of the high drag.

1.20

4-STROKE NOTE:

stroke engine, you must manage the throttle on takeoff and throughout the flight! Use slightly more than half throttle for your first few takeoffs and be ready to apply right rudder to counteract torque as you increase power. Add power gradually until you become familiar with the Bonanza's flight characteristics.

If you have installed a

1.20

FLIGHT

We recommend that you take it easy with your

Bonanza for the first several flights, gradually

getting acquainted

engine gets fully broken maneuver at a time, learning how she behaves in each. For ultra maneuvers, we recommend using the low rate settings as listed on page elevator may be required for crisp snap rolls and spins. With a scoots along,

when performing high

as split

esses and loops.

CAUTION

If, while flying, you notice any unusual sounds, such as a low surface components of your airplane, any time you detect flutter you must immediately cut the throttle and land the airplane! Check all servo grommets for deterioration (this may indicate which surface fluttered), and make sure all pushrod linkages are secure and free of play. once, it probably will flutter again under similar circumstances unless you can eliminate the free or flexing in the linkages. Here are some things which can result in flutter: Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting control horns solidly; Poor fit of clevis pin in horn; Side tight bends;

Insufficient glue used when gluing in the elevator joiner wire; Excessive and Insecure servo mounting.

(THIS APPLIES

pitched"buzz,"this may indicate control

flutter.

with this realistic model as your

in. Add and practice one

smooth flying and normal

68&69.

1.20

engine the Bonanza really

you should manage the throttle

"G"

diving maneuvers such

ALL

Because flutter can quickly destroy

the control surface fluttered

play of pushrod in guide tube caused by

Poor fit of Z

bend in servo arm;

playorbacklash

High rate

R/C

AIRPLANES):

in servo gears;

play

-70-

Page 35

When it's time to land, fly a normal landing pattern and approach. The Bonanza may bleed off airspeed more rapidly than the sport planes you

are used to, but it still tends

ground effect.

a little power during approach and touchdown. For your first landings, plan to land slightly faster than stall speed and flare a few inches off the runway onto the main wheels.

NDlNG

float

For this reason, be preparedtoadd

once it enters

THIS MODEL BELONGS TO:

NAME

you enjoyed building the Top Flite Beechcraft

Bonanza, try one of these other outstanding

size Gold Edition kits as your next project:

.60

Full flaps make the Bonanza very steady in the

FLAPS

landing pattern. Just carry a little extra power to make up for the increased drag. This drag allows

make shorter, steeper approaches. Touch

you down with a slightly nose letting the nose gear contact the runway first. You can execute touch full flaps, but be ready elevator. You should use only off and climbing because the plane will accelerate and climb much better than it would with full flaps.

If you have priority should be to smoothly apply power and establish a steady climb. After you reach a safe altitude, reduce flaps, and then make your turn get back into the landing pattern.

attempt ago-

Have a ball! But always stay in control

fly

in a safe manner.

and

GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!

high attitude to avoid

and-go's and slow flyby's with

use a little more

half

flaps for taking

around,

your first

ADDRESS

CITY

Cut this placard out, fill it out and place it inside your model.

STATE ZIP

PHONE #

AMA # SFA

Cessna 182 Skylane (TOPA0300)

81"Wingspan, 10-1 2 Lbs.

F4U Corsair (TOPA01

62"Wingspan,7-

9.5

00)

Lbs.

P-47D Thunderbolt (TOPA0135)

63"Wingspan, 8.5-10.5 Lbs.

Page 36

TWO-VIEW

DRAWING

Use this layout for planning

your

trim

scheme.