outside of the fuselage. The front end of the
stringers should align with the
the front and extend past the firewall by
plenty of T
conform to the curvature of the plan.
"
splice
the
stepped balsa
them onto another stringer later.
step
is on the bottom and faces the
side stringers
"
S
TEP"
.
dashed lines
-
pins to hold the stringers down sothey
1/8".
so
near
Use
4.
Position but do not glue formers F1through
F11
on the side stringers sothe embossed names
on the formers face forward.
Are your
3/76
pushrod holes drilled?
5.
Glue formers F2through
stringers, holding them vertical with a
triangle. Don't be concerned about formers that are
slightly warped or twisted
be able to straighten these formers when you glue
3/16
"
the
stringers to them.
F11
to the side
90
degree
-
that is normal. You will
I
"
7.
Test fit, then glue the die-cut
fuse side doublers
and to the side stringers.
to the firewall until the next step. You may have to
reposition some of your T
interfere with the side doublers. Use your
triangle to hold the formers vertical while you glue
the doublers to them.
8.
Glue the fu e side doublers to the firewall with
30
-
minute epoxy using the firewall angle gauge to
make sure the firewall is set at the correct angle.
Use a large C
hold the doublers to the firewall until the epoxy fully
cures. Cut one 3
1/2"
x
36
"
so
on both the left and right sides behind the firewall.
Glue them in place with 30
balsa tri stock pieces. Shape the pieces
they fit between the firewall and the fuse sides
to formersF2throughF6only
Do
-
-
clamp or masking tape tosecurely
"
long piece from each of the
-
minute epoxy.
1/8"
not
glue the doublers
pinssothey do not
plywood
90
(2)
"
1/4"
x
3/8"
3. Cut another
side stringer in half. Bevel one end of both stringers
x 36"stepped balsa
to match the angles you cut on the stringers
already pinned to the plan.
the plan and glue them to the front stringers with
thin CA. Trim the ends
F11
by approximately
in
the following photo.
Pin the stringers to
so
they extend past former
1/8".
You can see the
splice
6.
Glue the firewall to the side stringers using
the die
-
cut
1/8"
hold the firewall at the correct angle.
plywood
firewall angle gauge
-37-
9.
Locate two of the
the outside of the tubes
them through the holes in formers
so
to
they extend forward of formerF6byDo not
glue the pushrod tubes in place until instructed to
so.
do
24
"
pushrod tubes. Sand
so
glue will stick. Slide
F6
through
F10
Page 2
-
..
Refertothese photos for the next four steps.
10. Glue the 3/16"x 1/2"x9-7/8" balsa bottom
fuse sheeting support
even with the fuse side doublers. Cut and fit, but
do not glue,
seven 3/16
notches of the formers as shown on the plan and in
the photo. Save the leftover pieces. The three
bottom stringers extend
You can see the stringers in the photo at step
page 38.
11. Glue the fronts of the three bottom stringers
to the sheeting support, then use your 90 degree
triangle
and glue the bottom stringers
12. Glue the 3/16"x 3/16"side stringers and
pushrod guide tubes
13. Cut the bottom
formers where shown on the plan from two 1/2"
36"balsa triangle sticks. Glue the corner stringers
in place.
Disregard the servos.
in position. Sand the ends
the aft bottom fuse stringers from
"
x 3/16
"x36"balsa sticks to fit in the
to
the sheeting support.
to
hold each former at the correct angle
to
to
the formers.
the formers.
corner stringers
to
fit on the
MOUNT THE SERVOS
1.
Optional:
out the back of the fuselage, cut a third 3/16
pushrod guide tube (not included)
"
. Roughen the outside of the tube with coarse
21
sandpaper
through the holes in the bottom of the formers until
the front extends past former F7 by approximately
1/2". Glue the tube to the formers (this tube is
visible in the photo at step
2. Test fit your servos in the
(or
ruddervator/elevator
they fit. Glue a servo tray
front
the
3. Cut an
36"basswood stick tofit between the fuse sides
approximately 1-7/8" aft of former F5 where shown
on the plan. It will be helpful if you cut the rail
length that will provide a
fuse side doublers
position without using glue. Position the aft servo
tray rail between the fuse sides.
5
4. Position your servos into the servo trays and
place the trays on the rail and former
Temporarily thread two nylon clevises just a few
turns onto two 36
Install the pushrods into the pushrod guide tubes
and connect the clevises
x
your servos.
For routing your receiver antenna
(so
glue will stick) and slide the tube
5).
aft servo trays
doubler
to
from a 1/4"x3/8"
friction fit
to
servo arms on
of both trays.
aft
servo tray rail
"
servo trays) to make sure
so
it will temporarily stay in
one-end threaded pushrods.
-
38
toalength of
the bottom of
"
outer
between the
to
F5.
5.
Position the rail and the servo trays sothe
servo arms align with the pushrods. Glue the rail
and servo trays
this position. Drill 1/16
mount the servos with the screws that came with
your radio.
to
former F5 and the fuse sides in
"
holes in the servo trays and
FINISH FRAMING THE FUSE
1. Refertothe photo in the following step and
test fit a die
on the right side of the fuse. The front edge of the
x
forward fuse doubler should align with the front
edge
surface of the doubler and glue it in place. Be sure
a
that former F2 remains square and flat.
2.
side of the fuselage. Use
leftover from the aft bottom stringers
forward bottom stringers
the firewall and
-
cut 1/8" balsa
of
the fuse side doubler. Wet the outer
Gluetheotherforwardfusedoublertotheleft
F2.
forward fuse doubler
3/16
"
x
3/16"balsa sticks
that fit in the notches of
Glue the stringers in place.
to
make the
1
Page 3
3.
Sand the stringers even with the formers.
Sand the fronts of the triangle corner stringers
so
they blend to the ply side doublers and the bottom
sheeting support.
"
STEP
"
....
....
.
4.
One at a time, remove the T-pins in the main
side stringers aft of former
angle from the outside
F6.
Replace them at an
so
they will not interfere with
the side sheeting.
late in
1950
military was evaluating the
at the age
as a trainer.
of
53.
During this time the
YT-34
prototypes for use
SHEET THE FUSELAGE SIDES
1.
Glue
two
3/32
"x3
"
x
48
"
together to make a
6"x
48"fuse
the glue is dry, sand the sheets
even and smooth.
3/32
"
SIDE
balsa sheets
side
sheet.
so
they are flat,
SHEET
After
Note:
The side sheet will not reach all the way
back to the end of the fuselage. We will instruct you
3/32
"
to add a piece of leftover
balsatothe
rear later.
3.
Reposition the side sheet on the fuse. Mark
and trim the front bottom of the side sheet
above the bottom of the balsa front fuse doubler.
4.
Test fit the side sheet and make any further
adjustments necessary for a good fit.
6.
A little section at a time, carefully pry the
fuse side from the fuse side doubler and apply thin
or medium CA between the two. Quickly press
them together.
thoroughly glued
7.
Glue the fuse side tothe side stringers with
Do
this until the fuse side is
to
the side doubler.
thin CA and hold them together until the CA cures.
You
can really see how the bottom half of the fuse
will remain straight, true and flat
(as
flat as your
building board) when you remove it from your
building board!
8.
Return to step 1and glue another side sheet
to
the left fuse side the same way.
'
MAIN
FUSE
STRINGER
True one edge of the fuse side Hold
the side sheet on the right fuse side and mark the
wing saddle and corner stringer on the sheet. Trim
3/16
"
the sheet about
outside of the lines.
5.
Apply a bead of medium CA to the
ledge
portion of the side stringer from theto
former
F6.
Working quickly, position the side sheet
onthe ledge oftheside stringer and press it into
position where you have applied the glue. After the
CA dries apply thin CA
sheet aft of former
CA applicator tip, such as the Pacer Z
to
the side stringer and side
F6
from inside the fuse. A long
-
Ends"with a
Teflon@ tube, helps you apply the CA just where
you need it.
39
9.
Add pieces of leftover
the side sheets
photo at step
10.
Remove the T-pins and lift the fuselage from
to
the end of the fuselage. See the
11.
3/32
"
balsatoextend
your building board. Reinforce glue joints you
couldn't reach earlier or those that don't
look strong.
Page 4
11. Trim, then sand the fuselage side sheeting
and stringers that extend aft of former F11
are flush.
so
they
2. True the edges of both tail cone halves with
coarse sandpaper and a bar sander. Thoroughly
sand the mating surfaces
Carefully glue the tail cone halves together with
thin CA. Use just a few drops at a time.
Note:
Do not use CA accelerator on any of the
ABS plastic. Accelerator may cause the plastic to
develop cracks over time and prevent some types
of paint from sticking.
so
glue will stick.
If
you are building the straight tail, Skip to
the Sfraight Tail Stab and Fin
on page
Mount
45.
MOUNT THE V-TAIL STAB
Note:
Build accurately during the next few steps.
The stab saddle and the aft formers align the stab
and set the incidence, which will greatly affect the
way your model flies.
GLUE THE TAIL CONE TOGETHER
1. Cut both formed ABS
the cutlines. The cutlines can be most easily seen
from the inside. We highly recommend a pair of
curved Kyosho Lexan Scissors because you can
cut straight lines or small tight curves easily and
accurately. You could also use a small pair of
regular scissors or score the plastic along the
cutlines with a hobby knife and flex the plastic until
the excess breaks free.
tail cone halves
along
3. Trim the clear plastic
of the tail cone. Do not glue the tail lens in place
until after you paint the tail cone.
4.
If you are installing a tail navigation light,
make an
leftover ABS plastic and glue it to the rear of the tail
cone. Drill a 5/32
for the tail light lens included with the lighting kit.
Test fit the tail light.
aft tail cone former
"
tail lens
er
hole in the rear of the tail cone
-
40
-
to fit on the end
from a piece of
Refer to this photo for the following three steps.
V1. Glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood
former F11AV
sure F11AV
V2. Glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood
saddles
F11AV. The angle of the aft edge of the stab
saddle sets the angle of F11AV (which is 90').
V3. Glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood former
to the top of F10 and the front edge of the stab
saddles. F1OAV may be slightly aft of F10.
V4. Test fit the stab halves on the fuse by sliding
them onto the joiner portion of former FlOAV.
Bevel the ends of the stabs as necessary
all the way onto former F1OAV. Bevel the top, inner
edge of the stab saddles to match the angle of the
stabs but
The ends of former F11AV should contact the
inboard ends of the stab
to the aft bottom former F11. Make
accurately
to the top of the main side stringers and
do not change the incidence angle.
aligns with F11
aft upper
.
V-tail stab
FIOAV
so
they fit
Page 5
V5. Remove the stab halves. Temporarily
position the die
doubler
on the front of former FlOAV and test fit
the stab again. Make adjustments if necessary
-
cut 1/16"plywood
V-tail
LE
so
the stab aligns the same as it did in the previous
#64
step. Use
stabs to F11
V6. InsertaT-pin in the
rubber bands to temporarily hold the
AV.
center
of the top of the
firewall.
\
V8.
Glue the 1/16"plywood V-tailLEdoubler to
the front of former F1OAV with 30
-
minute epoxy.
Study the next three steps before you proceed.
Then work quickly and carefully.
V9. Mix enough 30-minute epoxy to thoroughly
joiners
coat both sides of the
on former F1OAV and
the insides of the stab halves where they contact
the
joiners.
Fiberglass to the epoxy
You may add some Great Planes Milled
to
thicken it and add
strength.
V11.Turn the fuselage over and inspect the glue
joints that hold the stab in place. If necessary, add
-
minute epoxy to joints that may not have
30
received enough.
V12. After the epoxy fully cures, sand the joiner
portion offlush with the top and bottom of
the stabs. Add balsa filler
so
it is smooth and matches the contour of the stab
if
needed. Sand the filler
sheeting.
Beech
Fact:
Magazine,
100
the
In the April, 1959 issue
the Beechcraft Bonanza was included in
best designs list.
The
only
other aircraft
of
Fortune
included in the list was another world famous airplane
the
Douglas DC-3.
V7.
Tie a loop on one endofa
string and connect it to the T
54
"
-
pin in the top of the
piece of
firewall. Put a piece of masking tape with an arrow
on it near the other end of the string. Slide the tape
along the string and align the arrow with the corner
of one of the stab halves. Swing the tape over to
other corner on the other stab half. Shift the stab
halves and slide the tape along the string until the
arrow aligns with the corners on both stab halves.
Once you have confirmed that the stabs will align,
remove them from the fuselage.
V10.
Coat both sides of the forward V-tail
LE
doublers, the front of the rear joiners, the tops of
the saddles, the insides of the stab halves where
they contact the joiners and the TE of the stabs
where they contact the joiners with epoxy. Slide the
stab halves into position and use rubber bands to
hold them in place. Use the pin and string to align
the stab halves and,
if
necessary, use T-pins or
masking tape to hold them in position. Apply a fillet
of epoxy where both stab halves meet. Wipe away
excess epoxy before it cures and do not disturb the
model until the epoxy is fully cured.
-41-
Page 6
BUILD THE TURTLE DECK
V1.
Glue formers
of their respective formers.
F7A, F8A
and
F9A
to the tops
V3.
Sand the stringers and formers sothat they
will blend.
V4.
balsa sheets-one sheet on the
of the turtle deck and one sheet on the
side of the turtle deck. Examine the four
x
aside to be used for the tops.
the skin for the bottom of the left turtle deck side
from one of the
the bottom. Use the bottom turtle deck sheet pattern on the plan
approximate shape.
How to use the patterns to make the turtle
deck skins
Cut the pattern from the plan. Spray the back of
the pattern and one of the sheets with
Repositionable Spray Adhesive. Press the sheets
together and press the pattern onto one of the
sheets. Cut the skins along the lines with a sharp
#11
The turtle deck is sheeted with four
24
"
balsa sheets and set the
V5.
Follow the Hot Tip that follows and make
1/16
"
balsa sheets you selected for
blade.
bottom
two
to
cut the sheet tothe
softest sheets
1/16
of each side
fop
of each
1/16
x
3M
75
3
V7.
stringers, formers and stab.
Glue the bottom turtle deck sheet to the
"
"
V8.
bottom turtle deck sheet and the fuse side with a
leftover piece of
other side the same way.
side of the turtle deck with the top turtle deckpattern on the plan and one of the soft
24
"
the turtle deck and trim where needed.
Fill in the small
1
/16"
V9.
Sheet the bottom of the turtle deck on the
V1O
.
Makeatopturtledecksheetfortheleft
balsa sheets you set aside. Test fit the sheet to
balsa.
wedge
between
1
/16"
the
x
3
"
x
V2.
Cut the turtle deck stringers from six
3/16
"x3/16
"x36
"
of the stringers that contact the stab
sheeting. Glue the stringers into the notches of the
formers as shown on the fuselage plan and in the
photo. Note the arrangement of the stringers at
F9A. Important: Align the formers with a
straightedge as you glue them
balsa sticks. Trim the aft edge
so
to
the stringers.
they fit the
V6.
trim where needed. The top edge of the sheet
in the center of the third stringer. Ifnecessary, wet
the sheet with a
so
Hint: The best way to accurately cut the sheet
your model is with careful test fitting, close
observation, and removing only small amounts of
material at a time. When done this way, you will
be rewarded with a great looking model even
before
favorite part!
Test fit the bottom turtle deck sheet and
50/50
solutionofalcohol and water
it will bend easier.
you cover it. Then, sheeting will be your
-42-
ends
to
fit
V11
turtle deck. Use a paint brush
50/50
(especially from the leading edge of the stab to the
end of the sheet). Be patient, bend the sheet a little
at a time, and keep applying water and alcohol.
. Gluethe
mixture of alcohol and water tothe sheet
top
turtledecksheettothe
to
liberally apply a
Page 7
IMPORTANT NOTE:
sandasthey build
If
very end.
to
even the turtle deck sheeting with the fuse
sides, you may do
thin
ABS
fitted and must match the sheeting.
you prefertodo a little sanding now
the 1/16"turtle deck sheeting because the
tail cone
Some modelers prefer
instead of waiting until the
so
but
do not excessively
and ABS
cabin
have yettobe
to
V12. Sheet the other sideofthe turtle deck
the same way. Fill in the space between the two
turtle deck sheets on top near former F7A with a
leftover piece of 1/16 balsa.
V13. Apply hobby filler where needed. Use
masking tape
isn't needed.
soitis
sheeting at the front should be even with F7A
where it meets the
to
keep filler off the sheeting where it
Do
not build up a fillet.
V14. Trim, then sand the turtle deck sheeting
flush with former F7A andThe
step
on the side stringer.
It's beginning to look like a Bonanza, isn't it !
HOOKUPTHE RUDDERVATORS
V1.
Cut the remaining
of the stabilizers. Test fit the ruddervators
stab with the hinges.
V2. Tap threads into both nylon
-
with a 6
onto one of the
bottom of the swivel is 7/16
torque rod. Thread the other swivel horn onto the
other ruddervator torque rod the same amount.
Compare the
swivels are threaded on
32 tap. Thread one of the swivel horns
two
two
hinge
slots
on
the TE
to
swivel
horns
ruddervator torque rods
"
from the end of the
torque rods and make sure both
so
the same amount.
-43-
the
the
V3. Use a straightedge and aballpoint pen
extend
the centerlines on the stab TE until they
meet in the center of FIlA. Position the torque
rods on the centerlines
apart. Accurately mark the location of the
portion of the torque rods (that fit into the
ruddervators) on the TE of the stab.
V4.
ruddervators
the marks
Remove the torque rods and fit the
to
the stab with the hinges. Transfer
to
theLEof the ruddervators.
V5. Drill ahole in the
edge of the ruddervators at the marks you made.
Cut a groove in the
torque rods. Test fit the ruddervators
with the torque rods.
Hint:
Use abrass tube sharpened at one end
to
cut the grooves for the torque rods.
so
the swivels are 3/16
center
LE's
to
accommodate the
of the leading
to
to
arm
the stab
"
Page 8
V6.
Cut away former F1IAVsothe torque rods
can move back and forth. Reposition the
ruddervators with the torque rods and make sure
they do not interfere with former
look something like the photo when you're done.
V7.
Cut 7"frOm the non-threaded end of a
x
36
"
pushrod wire.
wire with a cloth dampened with alcohol or other
solvent. Cut six
inner pushrod tube, then slide the bushings evenly
spaced onto the wire. Make sure the bushings at
the ends of the wire will not protrude from the guide
tube or the control could become stuck during
If the bushings slide onto the wire easily, hold
flight.
them
in
place with a drop of thin CA. Make sure the
CA cures before you proceed
inadvertently glue the pushrods into the guide
tubes! Slide a silicone
and thread the clevis onto the wire about 15full
turns. Make a second pushrod the same way.
Clean residual oil from the
1/4"
long
retainer
F11
bushings
onto a nylon
AV.
It should
,074''
from the white
so
you do not
clevis
V8.
Install the pushrods in the guide tubes.
Temporarily connect the clevises to the torque rods
and fit the ruddervators to the stab. Place a servo
arm on your ruddervator servos.
1-1'4"
V9.
ruddervators neutral, use a felt tip pen to mark the
pushrods exactly
arms. Remove the pushrods from the fuselage. Cut
them at the marks you made.
wire pushrod. Reinsert the pushrods into the
fuselage and thread
Temporarily connect the pushrods to the servos and
ruddervators. Adjust the length
necessary by turning the clevises in or out.
(FllTC)
material as needed to clear the torque rods
and pushrods.
With the servos centered and the
1-1/4
from the holes in the servo
V10.
Silver solder a
FIT
V1.
Glue the die-cutbalsa tail
on the end of the fuselage. Remove
threaded coupler
a
nylon clevis onto the couplers.
of
the pushrods
THE
TAIL
CONE
-44-
onto each
cone former
V2.
Glue the die-cutplywood tail
to
mounts
notches in the
torque rods. Fit the tail cone on the aft end of the
fuse and fasten it to the mounts with four
screws.
the tail cone former. Cut U-shaped
top
of the tail conetoclear the
Make
sure the screws donot interfere
with the ruddervator torque rods.
V3.
After you have fitted the tail cone, skip to
Sheet the
bottom
of the fuserage
on page
if
Beech
Fact:
confusing Bonanzas. This is because there were
versions built. The F33 produced in 1970 was the
short
long cabin (and is the subjectofour
Edition straight tail). The additional
cabin on the
formerly available
additional new
as six place seating and a larger cargo door, were
available. Price
The F33A, it turns out, is one of the most
cabin and theproduced in 1971 was the
Top Flite Gold
33A
matched the baggage space
only
the
33A
on
was
-
found cabin space other options, such
of
19
the V-tail. With this
$41,600
cone
#2x3/8"
50.
two
inches of the
(back then).
Page 9
MOUNT THE STAB AND FIN
CENTER THE STAB
ST1. Glue the die-cut 118" balsa
F11A
former
to former F11
.
aft upper
ST2. Securely glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood
straight tail stab saddles
to
the top of the main
fuse side stringer and F11A.
ST3. Glue the die-c ut 118" plywood upper former
FlOA
to the top of former F10. Glue the front of the
stab saddles
ST4. Use a bar sander with 80
to
F 1OA.
-
grit sandpaper
to
sand the front of the stab sothe TE will align with
F11A.
ST6.
TE. Use the die
Mark the
rod drill guide
center
-
cut 1/8" plywood
of the stab 1 / 8 from the
rudder torque
to drill a 3/16"hole through the
center of the stab at the mark. Make sure you drill
from the
top
of the stab.
Hint:
A6"piece of 3/16
brass tube sharDened at one end cuts a clean hole.
TOROUE
ROD
CUT
OFF
...
. .
.
ST7. Cut the threaded end of the
rod
so
the threads extend 5/8" as in the sketch.
Tap threads in the ,nylon
5/8"
rudder torque
swivel horn
with a 6-32
tap. Thread it onto the rudder torque rod until it is
even with the end.
ST8. Insert the rudder torque rod through the
You'll
hole from the bottom of the stab.
have to
force it a little because of the bend in the wire.
ST1.
Cut
7
"
,074"
x36"
from the non-threaded end of a
pushrod wire.
Clean residual oil from
the wire with a cloth dampened with alcohol or
other solvent. Cut six 1/4" long
bushings
from the
white inner pushrod tube, then slide the bushings
evenly spaced onto the wire. Make sure the
bushings at the ends of the wire will not protrude
from the guide tube or the control could become
If
stuck during flight.
the bushings slide onto the
wire easily, hold them in place with a drop of thin
CA. Make sure the CA cures before you proceed
so
you do not inadvertently glue the pushrods into
the guide tubes! Slide a silicone
nylon
clevis
and thread the clevis onto the wire
retainer
onto a
about 15 full turns. Make a second pushrod the
same way.
ST2. Connect one of the pushrods tothe nylon
swivel horn on the rudder torque rod and slide the
pushrod into the rudder pushrod guide tube in the
fuselage. Position the stab on the stab saddle.
Place a weight on top of the stab to hold it in place.
ST5.
sanding drum
Use a hobby knife or a Multi-Pro with a
to
cut F11Atoclear the horn on the
elevator joiner wire and the rudder torque rod.
Beech
Quote:
"
The
Beechcraft Bonanza is a
masterpiece of engineering; it's an airplane that
of
constitutes a modern miracle
aeronautical design;
and in our opinion, marks a new milestone in the
progress
of
aviation.
"
-45-
-
WalterH.Beech
August
1,
1946
I
ST3.
former
saddles.
Align the TE of the stab with the center of
F1
1. Mark the TE of the stab above the stab
Page 10
ST4. Insert a T-pin in the center of the top of the
firewall.
I
ST5. Tiealoop on one end of a54"
string and connect it
firewall. Put a piece of masking tape with an arrow
on it near the other end of the string. Slide the tape
along the string and align the arrow with the corner
of one of the stab halves. Swing the tape over
the other corner on the other side of the stab. Shift
the stab and slide the tape along the string until the
arrow aligns with both corners of the stab.
ST6. Mark the
former F1
OA.
to
the T-pin in the top of the
LE
of the stab where it aligns with
piece of
to
ALIGN THE STAB HORIZONTALLY
STl. Place two clothespins on the top offormer
F4 and rest a straightedge on the top
sides, propped up against the clothespins. See the
following photo.
I
ST2. Stand behind the fuselage and view the
stab and the straightedge
necessary, carefully sand one side of the stab
saddle
so
the stab will align with the straightedge.
ST3. Move the rudder pushrod wire back and
forth
to
interfere with the. fuse sides and the rudder torque
rod can move freely.
pushrod wire or the
saddle.
binding here.
the saddle. Place the stab on the saddle sothe
marks you made earlier align. Before the epoxy
cures, confirm alignment once more using the
and
epoxy has fully cured.
make sure the clevis and horn do
There must not be any possibility of
ST4.
Use 30-minute epoxy toglue the stab
string
technique.Donot proceed until the
to
seeifthey align.
If
necessary, adjust the
clearance
of
slot
in the stab
the fuse
not
pin
-46-
MOUNT THE FIN
STI. Trim the sheeting on the bottom of the fin
until it matches the top of the stab. Make sure you
trim both sides evenly
the fin sheeting in front of former F1OA
with fin rib R1 as shown in the photo. R1 of the fin
should rest on former F10 and the rear of the stab.
so
the fin sits vertical. Trim
1
If
ST2.
basswood fin post on the front of F1
up into the fin until it hits the
position and remove the fin. Mark the location of
to
the fin post. Apply 30
and FlOA. Clamp the fin post to FlOA aligned with
the marks you made.
vertical and is centered on former
post aligns the front of the fin with the fuselage.
With the fin on the stab, place the
LE.
Hold the fin post in
-
minute epoxy to the fin post
Be certain the fin post i s
so
OA
and slide it
FlOA.
it is even
The fin
Page 11
BUILD
THE
TURTLE
DECK
A=A
ST3. After the epoxy cures, position the fin on
the fin post and confirm that the fin remains
vertical. Make adjustments if necessary. Use the
pin and
distance between the tip of the fin and the stab tips.
the fin with 30
or microballoons
to
and fin sheeting to the stab with 30
Make sure the
former F11
the stab and the fin sheeting. Use masking tape
string
technique or a ruler tomeasure the
ST4. Glue the top of the fin post to the inside of
the bottom of the fin). Glue the base of the fin
-
minute epoxy and milled fiberglass
(so
all the epoxy won't run down
-
TE
of the fin is
minute epoxy.
centered
. Apply a small fillet of epoxy between
hold the fin until the epoxy is fully cured.
over
to
Test
fit
temporarily hook up the pushrods. Make sure you
can move the controls without any interference or
binding. Make adjustments if necessary.
engine Model 18was being produced for the military
in a variety of configurations. But as unpatriotic as it
may have seemed at the time,
to
postwar years. The twin would certainly continue
but the Model
mark
-
the biplane was on its way out. The trend was
continuing toward all metal, light planes (started by
Luscombe as early as
workona
overtime basis. After much careful study
to
find
out
of
design, wind tunnel and static testing,onDecember
22,
1945, the first Bonanza was on its maiden voyage
by
test pilot Vern Carstens.
ilown
the rudder and eleva
one
hadtothink ahead
17
Staggerwing was a question
1934).
At
new
model wastobe done on a voluntary,
what typeofplanetobuild, and after hours
Beechcraft, design
itor and
The
of
the market
twin
-47-
ST1. Glue formers
of
their respective formers.
tops
ST2.
Cut
the
seven 3/16
stringers into the notches of the formers as shown
on the fuselage plan and in the photo. Note the
arrangement of the stringers at F9A.
Important:
you glue the stringers
blend together.
1/16
each side of the turtle deck and one sheet on the
top of each side of the turtle deck. Examine the
four 1/16
softest sheets aside
"x3/16
Align the formers with a straightedge as
ST3. Sand the stringers and formers sothey
ST4. The turtle deck is sheeted with four
"
balsa sheets-one sheet on the bottom of
"
x3x24balsa sheets and set the two
F7A, F8A
turtle deck stringers
"x30"balsa sticks. Glue the
to
them.
to
be used for the top.
and
F9A
to
the
from
Page 12
ST5.
to a length of 21-1/2". Position the sheet
side of the turtle deck
bottom of the stab and is parallel
stringer from the bottom as shown in the photo.
Cut one of the bottom turtle deck sheets
so
the top edge contacts the
on
the left
to
the third
ST7. Reposition the sheet. Mark and cut it
along the line.
matches the bottom of the stab.
ST8.
deck side sheet and the fuse side with
piece of 1/16
Do
this until the sheet accurately
Fill in the small
"
balsa. See the following photo.
wedge
between the turtle
stab
a
leftover
STI
and the stab with a leftover piece of 1/16"balsa.
same way. Add the
the stab.
1. Fill most of the space between the fin
ST12. Sheet the right side of the turtle deck the
partial fillet
between the fin and
ST6. Use a ballpoint pen tomark the bottom
of
the stab onto the sheet. Remove the sheet and
cut along the line you marked.
ST9. Trim the top of the sheet so it
the center of the third stringer. Trim the bottom of
the sheet
Glue the sheet in position.
I
sheet
and the top,
sheet
Glue the sheet in position. Make
1/16 leftover piece of balsa to fit between the
turtle deck sheets in the front.
so
it matches the topofthe fuse side.
ST10.
Trim another 1/16
to fit between the bottom turtle deck sheet
center
stringer. Trim the aft end of the
"x3
so it fits the fin and ends at former FlOA.
a
-48-
"
x
24
wedge
ends
"
balsa
from a
two
in
ST13. Trim, then sand the turtle deck sheeting
so
it is flush with former F7A and
sheeting at the front should be even with F7A
where it meets the
ledge
on the side stringer.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Some modelers prefer to
sand as
very end.
to
sides, you may do
1/16 turtle deck sheeting because the ABS
cone
must match the sheeting.
they
build
insteadofwaiting until the
If you prefer to do a little sanding now
even the turtle deck sheeting with the fuse
and ABS
so
but
do
not over-thin
cabin
have yet to be fitted and
A. The
the
tail
Page 13
HOOK
UP
THE
RUDDER AND
ELEVATO
Note: As on the full size Beechcraft, the elevators
and rudder can touch,
set
so
that this does not happen during flight.
R
but
the rudder throw
will
be
BUILD
ST1. Use the pattern on the plantomake the
dorsal fin base from leftover 1/16
dorsal fin base
sure the front of the base is centered on the fuse
centerline.
THE
DORSAL FIN
"
to
the top of the turtle deck. Make
balsa. Glue the
ST1. Install the pushrods in the guide tubes.
Temporarily connect the clevises to the rudder
control horn
place.
ST2. Place a servo arm on your rudder and
elevator servos. With the servos centered and the
rudder and elevators neutral, use a felt
mark the pushrods exactly 1
the servo arms. Remove the pushrods from the
fuselage. Cut them at the marks you made.
ST3. Silver solder a threaded coupler onto
each wire pushrod. Reinsert the pushrods into the
fuselage and thread a nylon clevis onto the
couplers. Temporarily connect the pushrods
servos and rudder and elevator. Adjust the length
of the pushrods
in or out.
and
fit the rudder and elevator
-
-1/4"
if
necessary by turning the clevises
tip pen to
from the holes in
in
to
the
1/16
"
...
ST2.
Cut the 15" tapered balsa dorsal tin
the shape shown on the plan. Glue the dorsal fin
LE
to the fin LE and the dorsal fin brace.
ST3.
Make
two
1/16
"
balsa sheeting and pattern on the plan. Test
fit and glue one of the sheets
dorsal fin base. Wet the sheet and glue it
dorsal
fin
LE.
LE
off
fin
Glue the other dorsal fin sheet in position.
to one side when you glue the sheet to it.
dorsal fin sheets from leftover
Make sure you do not pull the dorsal
-49-
1/2"
to
the turtle deck and
to
LE
the
ST4.
the dorsal fin and fin.
to
Glue the
ST5.
fin filler to blend them
front of the dorsal fin to complete the taper and
each layer to fully dry before you apply the next.
Apply Hobbylite filler to the dorsal fin and
blend it to the turtle deck.
in one application but build up thin layers, allowing
1/16
"
die-cut plywood fin filler
to
the fin. Apply fillertothe
Do
not apply all the filler
,
ST6. Sand the fillet, blending the dorsal fin, fin
filler and fin into one smooth contour.
to
Page 14
FIT THE TAIL CONE
SHEET THE BOTTOMOFTHE
FUSELAGE
1.Ifyou are going tohook up working lights,
now is a convenient time to route the wire for the
light in the tail. Route the wire through the formers.
Glue the wire to the formers with rubber cement or
a drop of CA
enough wire to extend past former F11
extend about 2
so
they don't rattle around. Allow
so
"
past the back of the tail cone.
it will
MOUNT THE ENGINE
ST1. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa tail cone
former (F11TC) on the end of the fuselage.
Remove material as needed to clear the torque
rods and pushrods. There must be
of
binding
ST2. Refer to the photo at stepV2on page
shows the V
Glue the die
the tail cone former. Cut round notches in the tail
cone to clear the joiner wire. Fit the tail cone on the
aft end of the fuse and fasten it to the mounts with
four
not
Mount the tail cone to the fuselage.
tail cone and the TE of the rudder with leftover
balsa. Use lightweight hobby filler to blend the fin to
the stab and the tail cone to the fin.
here.
-
tail but the straight tail is the same.
-
cut
1/8"
plywood tail cone mounts to
#2
x
3/8" screws. Make sure the screws
interfere with the elevator torque
ST3. Remove the elevators and joiner wire.
ST4.
Fill
the small space between the top of the
no
possibility
rod.
44.
do
2. Cut a
of 28. True both edges of the sheet with a hobby
knife and a straightedge. Pin the sheet to the
bottom of the fuselage in the 'center
butts against the front edge of the tail cone.
It
3. True both edges ofanother 3/32"x 3
balsa sheet. Position the sheet on the bottom of the
fuselage next to the center sheet. Use a ballpoint
pen
Cut the sheet along the line you drew.
with the remainder of the sheet on the other side of
the fuselage.
4.
the glue dries, sand the fuselage bottom sheet
is flat and the edges are even. Sand the bottom at
the formers and stringers
flat. Glue the fuselage bottom sheet to the bottom
of the fuselage.
5. Shape the bottom
shown in the cross sections on the plan
blend with the tail cone at the rear.
3/32
"
x 3
"x30"balsa sheet to a length
to
mark the side of the fuselage onto the sheet.
Glue the three bottom sheets together. After
so
that they are even and
corners
of the fuselage as
-50-
so
the end
Do
the same
"x30
so
so
they
1.
Glue the die-cut 1/8"plywood servo tray
doublers to the bottom of both die
plywood forward servo trays. Mount your throttle
servo to one tray and your nose wheel steering
servo to the other tray.
2.
Cut a 8-3/4"
x
36"basswood stick to fit between the
3/8"
fuselage sides behind former F2. Test fit, then glue
the servo rail to the fuse sides and former F2 1-7/8"
below the top edge
"
3. Cut a 8-13/16
the fuselage side doublers
servo rail. Place the throttle and nose wheel
it
steering servo and tray between the rails. Adjust
the position of the aft rail to fit your servos. Glue
the aft servo rail in place. Do not glue the servo
trays in place until instructed to do
4.
Glue the FlT/FlDT assembly to the top of the
firewall. Use a straightedge to make sure
they align.
forward
servo
rail from a
of
F2.
"
aft
servo rail tofit between
7/8
"
aft of the forward
so.
-
cut 118
1/4"
"
x
Page 15
5.
Glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood
doubler
to the back of the firewall, centered on the
firewall
engine mount punch marks, 1/8" below the notch in
the center of F1DT as shown on the plan.
FIXED LANDING GEAR RETRACT LANDING GEAR
(VIEWED
FROM THE FRONT)
7/32
"
IVIEWED FROM THE FRONT)
7/32
"
6. Drill the correct size holes through the punch
marks on the front of the firewall as shown in the
sketches above. Tightly hold a
on the back
so
the drill does not split the wood
thick
block of wood
when it comes through.
7.
Press four 8-32 blind nuts into the holes on
the back of the firewall. Use an 8
-
32x1-1/2"
socket head cap screw with some large washers to
draw
the blind nuts into the wood. Wick thin CA
around the back of the blind nuts to permanently
hold them in place.
8.
Temporarily clamp the die-cut
tank
floor
to the forward servo rail so it is centered
1/8"
plywood
on the back of the firewall doubler. Turn the
fuselage over and push the tank floor up until it
contacts the edge of the bottom blind nuts. Glue a
"x3/16
3/16
firewall under the tank floor to serve as a
tank floor
"x3"balsa stick to the back of the
forward
ledge.Donot glue the tank floor to the
ledge until instructed to do so.
9.Ifyou have not already done
fuselage side doublers and fuselage sides
so,
sand the
so
they
are flush with the front of the firewall.
10. Cut the
halves and trim off any
spacer bar
off both
engine mount
flashingsothey easily fit
together. Loosely bolt your engine mount to the
x
firewall with four 8/32
screws,
#8
lock washers and flat washers. Adjust
1-1/4" socket head cap
the mount so your engine will fit. Tighten the
screws to securely hold the mount to the firewall.
Use small clamps
to
hold your engine to the mount
so the front of the drive washer (or the back plate
-
of your spinner) is 6
1/4 from the firewall. Mount a
flat wood stick or the back plate of your spinner to
the engine so you can measure the distance.
Beech Fact: Inaddition to the aforementioned
benefits the V
manufacturing costs through fewer parts, fewer parts
for
Beech dealers to stock, reduced damage from
debris thrown from the prop and wheels, and spin
recovery superior to that of an airplane with a
conventional tail.
-
tail offers, others include lower
-
51
-
11. Mark the engine mounting bolt holes on the
Hint:
mount.
Mark the holes with a wire rod
sharpened at one end. Heat the tip of the rod with a
center
torch to dimple the engine mount in the
of
the holes.
12. Remove the engine from the mount and the
if
mount from the firewall. Use a drill press,
you
have access to one, or use a hand drill to drill the
holes with a #29 or 9/64 drill bit for 8
Tap 8
-
32 threads into the mount. Screw the mount
-
32 screws.
back onto the firewall. Screw the engine to the
-
mount with 8
32x1"screws to see how it fits.
Page 16
MOUNT THE NOSE LANDING GEAR
Continue with these instructions ifyou are
If
installing fixed landing gear.
installing retracts, skip to
53.
page
Fixed
gear
I
F1.
Draw a line connecting the punch marks on
both die
braces.
die
plan. Mark the location of the
gear rails onto the braces.
-
cut
1/8"
Cut the braces off at the line. Glue the two
-
cut
1
/8"
F2.
Place the braces over their locationonthe
F3. Remove the engine mount from the firewall.
plywood nose
plywood
Retractable
nose gear plates
1/4"
you are
gear
on
landing gear
together.
plywood landing
F4.
Cut a bevel on the end of the
9
"
plywood
on the end
right side of the firewall and in the notch in former
F2. Position the right brace and align the front of
the rail with the front of the brace. Mark the rail
aftofformer F2.
the mark. Mark the other rail in the same manner.
F5.
the rails to the firewall and former
braces
front of the rails are even with the front of
the braces.
F6.
nose gear plate. Press four
holes in the plate, and secure them with thin CA.
landing gear
of
the braces. Test fit a rail through the
Use 30-minute epoxy to simultaneously glue
to
the rails and the firewall. Make sure the
Drill
1/8"
holes through the punch marks in the
rails
Remove the rail and cut it at
4-40
1/4"x9/16
to match the angle
1/8"
F2,
and the rail
blind nuts into the
-52-
F7.
"
x
Position the nose gear plate on the front of
the braces. Trim the rails
interfere. Use 30
gear plate to the rails and rail braces. Hold the
plate in position with masking tape until the epoxy
is fully cured. Add balsa triangle
on the plan cut from leftover fuse corner stringers.
See the photo at step
F8. Mount the nylon
nose plate with four
the holes in the nose gear bearing for the nose
gear strut with a
numbered drill set, an
F9. Enlarge the outer hole in the black, nylon
steering arm
Mount the heavy duty
the steering arm with the
Mount the 3/16
bearing with a
and the steering arm and a 6-32
cap screws as shown on the plan. Notice that the
steering arm is slightly off center when the nose
gear is centered.
FIO. Temporarily fit your nose steering servo
and tray on the forward servo rails. Fit a servo arm
to
your servo.
-
#10
with a
nose gear wire
3/16
so
minute epoxytoglue the nose
the blind nuts do not
braces
11.
nose gear bearing
4-40
x
1/2"
screws. Enlarge
drill bit
(if
11/64
#
41
you don't have a
"
drill bit will work too).
drill bit or a hobby knife.
Screw-Lock connector
one-way star washer.
"
wheel collar
to the nose gear
x
1/4"
as shown
and
set screw
socket head
to the
to
Page 17
Beech Fact:
been manufactured and over
cousins have been manufactured.
percentage are still flying today. Experts
factors contributing to the Bonanza's success
including Walter Beeches' reputation,
built to last forever
Class-A
production^
Nearly
10,000
V-tail Bonanzas have
1,800
of
its
straight tailed
A
very
tooling ordered before the Bonanza
design and appearance, new
and its all-around performance.
the
large
cite
many
Bonanza's
went
into
MARK
1/8"
SPACER
NOSE GEAR RAIL
F11.
Thread a 4-40
metal
clevis
pushrod.
the other end of the pushrod to the Screw
connector in the steering arm. Cut the pushrod
about 1/4" past the connector. Make a slight bend
in the pushrod near the Screw
aligns with the hole in the connector. Temporarily
secure the pushrod to the connector with a
set screw.
F12. Securely glue the nose steering servo tray
to
the servo rails. Make sure your servo is
centered, and tighten up the 4
clevis with a drop of thread lock for extra security.
small
File
securely hold the set screws.
That was easy wasn't it? Now hook up the throttle.
It's just
55.
page
onto a
Connect the clevis to the servo. Connect
flat spots in the nose gear strut to
as
easy! Skip to
hex nu
.095
followed by a 4-40
x
12
"
nose steering
-
Lock connector soit
-
40 jam nut on the
Hook
Up
The
-
Lock
Throttle
on
Retractable nose gear
Note:
While there are other retractable nose gear
units that may work in the Top Flite Gold Edition
Beechcraft, the Robart 631isshowninthis manual
because it rotates 105
forthismodel.
mounting position would have to be raised and the
rails would have to be slanted upward toward the
frontofthe model in ordertoachieve the scale
appearance of the full size Beechcraft. These
modifications are up
RI.Ifyou're using the Robart 631 nose gear
retract, mark a line 7-7/8" from one end of both 1/4"
x
9/16"x
9
"
position the pivot point of the 631 nose gear 7-7/8"
from the aft edge of F2.
plywood
andisdesigned specifically
A 90 unit would work but the
to
you.
landing gear rails.
-
53
-
This will
R2. Glue one 114x9/16x2-1/ 4 plywood
and one 1/8"x9/16
spacer
on the end of both rails that you made the
spacer
mark on, but on the other side of the rail.
"x2-1/4" plywood
Bottom
\
R3. Temporarily place the landing gear rails
R4. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the rails to the
firewall and former F2 and the die
landing gear braces
to the rails and the firewall.
-
cut 1/8" plywood
rail
rail
Page 18
R5.
Use small clamps to hold the nose gear to
the rails
aligns with the marks you made on the top of the
rails. Mark the locations of the mounting holes on
the landing gear rails.
holes at the marks you made. Temporarily mount
your landing gear with
nuts (not included).
interfere with the wheel and strut. Use a Dremel
Tool or a razor saw
accommodate the strut. Retract the nose gear and
make sure it does not interferewith the firewall.
Note:
so
nose wheel is centered on the strut. On the Robart
631
wheel and the strut to center the wheel. The nose
wheel
between the rails when retracted.
so
the pivot point (on the Robart
R6.
Remove the landing gear and drill
6-32
x 3/4
screws and blind
R7.
Remove the two
Adjust the
the nose wheel is neutral and make sure the
strut we inserted two#8washers between the
centering spring
mustbeneutral
3/16"stringers that
to
cut the firewall to
on your retracts
and
centered
631's)
5/32
to fit
Hint:
File or sand a slight bevel to the bottom
edges of the rails to guide the nose wheel, in case
"
R8. If
disconnects handy, temporarily connect them to
your nose gear air cylinder and actuate the nose
gear with the air pump. This will give you a good
indication of any problem areas that you can
you have your air pump and some quick
correct now.
U
R9.
Cut
plywood
nose steering servo to the servo tray
shaft is on the
on the plan. See the photo at step
the servo is
u
valve in the same location as in our prototype, drill
a
1/2"
steering servo tray mount
3/16"off the aft edge of the die-cut
nose steering servo tray.
left
side of the servo tray as shown
offset
toward the aft edge of the servo
R10.
If
you would like to mount your air control
hole in the die-cut
118"
plywood
at the punch mark.
so
R11.
-54-
1/8"
Mount your
the output
Note that
right nose
R11.
Test fit the servo tray (with the servo) in the
die
-
cut
1/8"
assembly in the servo rails. Position the mounts
and the tray
centered between the
the servo tray and the mounts in this position.
R12.
steering cable inner pushrod guide tube and slide
the pieces through the holes in the firewall and
former
plywood
Cut
F2.
Glue the tubes to the firewall and
servo tray mounts
so
the output shaft of the servo is
1/8"
holes in former
two
4-5/8"
pieces from the white nose
and fit the
F2.
Glue
F2.
CONNECT THE NOSE
STEERING
Several pull-pull steering cable systems are
available that will work in your Bonanza. We
selected the Sonictronics
System.
R1.
Enlarge the hole in two Screw-Lock pushrod
connectors with a
-
lock connectors to a large servo arm and
screw
fasten each with a nylon retainer. Connect one end
of
a14"
included with the pull
long pull-pull cable to a threaded rod
PULL-PULL
#121
Pro-Control
#46or5/64"drill bit. Mount the
-
pull steering set using the
Cable
Page 19
swage
to secure the cable. Fit the threaded rod into
one of the Screw
lock it down with a
Connect another piece of cable to the other
Screw
-
Lock connector the same way, then thread
the cable through the guide tubes toward the nose
gear strut.
R2.
Install a 0-80 threaded ball link ball (not
included) onto the arm on both sides of the nose
wheel strut with a 0
of both cables to the threaded ball links with the
swages. Tighten the loop in the cable just enough
so
it
will not come
Temporarily hook up the steering servo to your
radio system and test the movement. Adjust the
tension on the cables or make other adjustments
needed.
Note:
If your nose gear steering arms did not come
bent
90"
-
Lock connectors and temporarily
4-40
x
118" socket head screw.
-
80 nut. Connect the other end
off
the ball. Crimp the swages.
as shown, dosonow.
FINISH CONSTRUCTION
HOOKUPTHE THROTTLE
1. Mount your engine mount and engine to the
firewall. Mount your muffler
throttle pushrod will not interfere.
to make sure your
iteeringservo
This is the throttle servo location for fixed gear,
if
This is the throttle servo location for retractable gear.
2.
Place your throttle servo tray with the servo in
the rails. Connect the
to your servo with a small, brass
connector.
pushrod
-
a 0
thread lock on the nut. Glue the throttle servo tray
to the rails.
Connect the other end of the throttle
to the engine with a nylon
80
threaded ball
,074"
x 12"
and 0-80
-
55
-
throttle pushrod
ball socket
nut.
Use a drop of
-
Screw-Lock
and
MOUNT THE WING TO THE FUSE
Remember the wing? Goget it
to
the fuse.
Bevel the end ofboth
wingboltblocks
-
cut
1/8"
die
2.
Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the wing bolt
blocks and holders in the fuse where shown on the
plan. See the photo at step
3. Place the wing in the wing saddle on the fuse.
Observe
sides that prevent the wing from fitting. Remove the
wing and sand the high spots
the fuse as accurately as possible.
ply fuse side doublers.
used to align the stab? Get your string out and stick
a T
just ahead of the tail cone.
with the fuse the same way you did the stab.
weights over the center section
shifting during the next few steps. Keep your string
handy
you proceed.
high spots
4.
Remember the
-
pin in the center of the bottom, middle stringer
5.
Use the arrow on the tape to align the wing
6.
Once you have the wing aligned, place
so
so
plywood
you can recheck alignment as
theymatchtheangleofthe
wing bolt block holder.
in the saddle of the
1/2"
8.
pin and
so
you
can mount it
x
1"
x
2-1/4"
balsa
so
the wing matches
Do
not sand the
string
method
to
keep it from
maple
fuse
you
Page 20
12. Spread a thin film of 30-minute epoxy on one
side of both wing dowel plates and fit them over the
dowels protruding through former F2D inside the
fuse. Accurately mark the location of the plates
on F2D.
crutch. Glue F1A
Remove the crutch.
3.
Cut the stringers from pieces of leftover 3/16
x
3/16"balsatofit from F1Atothe firewall. Glue
the stringers in position while using
triangle
to
stringers.
hold F IA perpendiculartothe top of the
to the side stringers only.
a
90
degree
"
7. Drill through
top sheeting
the wing with
perpendicular to the wing bolt plate as you drill
the head of the wing bolt will rest flat.
wing
in the wing bolt plate and the top sheeting with
round file or a 17/64 drill. Replace the wing on the
fuselage and bolt it down with the one 1/4" nylon
wing bolt.
9.
steps
10. Bolt the wing to your fuselage and leave the
wing bolts barely snug. Realign the wing.
11. Drill 1/4" holes through the 1/8" x 1"x2
plywood
holes with a round file or a piece of sandpaper
wrapped around something round such as
a
piece of brass tube. This will allow you toplug the
wing into the fuselage without too much resistance.
and
8.
Remove the wing and tap threads into the
bolt
block witha1/4-20 tap. Enlarge the hole
Replace the #7
5,
6, 7 and 8.
wing dowel plates. Slightly
only one
the wing bolt block on one side of
a
#7 drill. Keep the drill bit
drill
wing bolt plate, the
bit in your drill.
enlarge the
Repeat
a
pen or
so
13. Remove the wing. Clamp the wing dowel
to
plates
from the holes
F2D with C-clamps. Wipe excess epoxy
if
any is present.
SHEET THE FORWARD DECK AND
BOTTOM
1. Assemble your fuel tank. Position the tank
floor and the tank in the fuselage and determine
to
where
holes with
a
drill the holes for the fuel lines. Drill the
a
1 / 4 drill (or 15/64"drill for abetter fit).
6
"
2. Remove the tank and tank floor. Position the
die
-
cut 1/8" plywood
main side stringers
F7A. Position the die
on the fuse main side stringer soit contacts the
cabin crutch
so
the aft edge contacts former
-
cut
1/8"
plywood former
-56-
on
the fuse
1
FIA
4. Place 1/4" foam rubber on the tank floor. Test
fit your fuel tank with
with this kit.
time,
year.
5. Sheet the forward
3/32
"
sand the front even with the firewall. Sand the back
even with FlA, but do not sand the rest of the
sheeting until you fit the cabin.
Note:
so
you should replace them at least once
balsa. After you glue the sheeting in position,
#32
rubber bands
Rubber bands deteriorate over
fuse
deck with leftover
included
a
Page 21
-
El
6.Ifyou're installing retracts, turn the fuselage
over and build a small
balsa to support the sheeting around the nose
wheel cutout.
7. Use leftover 1/16"balsa sheeting to seal the
area around the nose gear between
This will prevent fuel and exhaust residue from
entering the fuselage.
-
framework
from leftover
and F2.
FIT
THE
1. Bevel one end offour 1/2"x1/2"
basswood blocks sothey fit between the fuse main
side stringers and formers F3 and F6 where shown
on the plan. Glue the blocks in position.
2.Ifyour fuel tank is in the fuse, remove it for now.
TOP
x
5/8"
the edges, and screw it back onto the fuse. A little
at a time, mark, then trim the crutch until it
accurately fits the fuse main side stringers.
6.
Use scissors to cut the molded ABS
along the cutlines (which are most visible from
top
inside the cabin top). The cabin top will be slightly
oversize to allow you to trim it for an exact fit to
your model. Use a felt tip pen to mark the moldedin center marks at the front and aft edges of the
cabin top
Do
instructed to do
sheeting over former F2A (over the center stringer).
Mark the center of the turtle deck sheeting over
former F7A (over the center stringer).
so
not trim the cabin top to fit your fuse until
7. Lightly mark the center ofthe front fuse
they will be easier to see while fitting.
so.
cabin
U
8.
Use leftover 3/32"balsa to sheet the bottom
forward fuse, aft of the cowl.
the nose wheel and strut
retracts.
9.
Remove the tank and foam rubber. Coat the
inside of the fuselage between the firewall and
former F2 including the back of the firewall with fuel
proof paint, epoxy or finishing resin.
Cut
the wheel well for
if
you are installing
3. Place the die-cut
on the fuselagesoit is centered and the edges
slightly extend past the side stringers. Use masking
tape to hold the cabin crutch to the fuselage.
1/8
plywood
cabin crutch
I
4.
Drill four 1/16"holes through the crutch into
the center
you drill each hole, temporarily hold the crutch to
the fuse with a #2
crutch that need to be sanded for a perfect fit to the
fuse main side stringers. Remove the crutch, sand
of
the blocks you glued to the fuse. After
x
1/2" screw.
5.
Use a ballpoint pen to mark areas of the
-57-
8.
Position the die-cut
former
former F7A. Lightly sand the edges of F7B
is approximately a
and F7A to accommodate the cabin top.
forward cabin former
same way.
crutch. Place a piece
F7B
on top of the crutchsoit contacts
9.
Test fit and shape the die-cut
10. Reposition the aft cabin former on top of the
1/8"
plywood
1
/16" difference between F7B
F2B
to former F2A the
of
thin cardboard between the
aft cabin
so
1/8"
plywood
there
Page 22
aft cabin former and F7A. The thickness of the
cardboard should be approximately 1/64
This is toprovide a little clearance for painting and
covering. Trace the outline of F7A onto the piece of
cardboard. Cut approximately 1/4" outside of the
line you drew. Reposition the cardboard shim and
glue the aft cabin former
in place.
11.
Make a shim and glue the front cabin former
to the crutch the same way.
12.
Temporarily position some balsa sticks
between the front and aft cabin formers to make
sure they and the shims tightly contact the fuse.
You are going
the more accurately they fit the fuse, the more
accurately your cabin top will fit the fuse.
to
to
the crutch with the shim
fit the cabin top tothe shims
"or.015".
so
centerline on the cabin top aligns with the
centerline on the fuse. Use a lead pencil
areas of the front of the cabin top that need to be
sanded for a perfect fit.
the areas you marked, erase the pencil marks, and
reposition the cabin top. Continue to mark, sand
and fit the cabin top until the front fits well.
14. Perform the same procedure to the aft edge
of the rear of the cabin top until it fits the rear
cardboard shim and the cabin top drops into place.
15.
With the cabin top on the fuse, make your
pencil marks where the bottom needs to be
trimmed. Sand the bottom edges of the cabin top
until it fits.
16.
Thoroughly roughen the entire inside of the
cabin top with 220
will stick.
Carefully
-
grit sandpaper soglue and paint
and
to
lightly
mark
sand
This will allow you to accurately fit the windows
later, but do not enlarge the openings yet
roughlycut them along the cutlines for now.
-
just
MOUNT THE CABIN TOP
1.
Remove the screws that temporarily hold the
crutch
3/4"
the holes. Using the holes in the crutch as a guide,
drill 1/16
just
fuse with the screws.
the hole through the crutch and the blocks in the
fuse with a
temporarily insert a 4
to hold the crutch in alignment as you drill the rest
of the holes.
to
the fuse. Glue four pieces of
x
3/4" leftover
"
holes up through the
glued on. Temporarily screw the crutch to the
2.
One at a time, remove a screw, and enlarge
1/8"
plywood to the crutch over
1/8"
ply pieces you
1/8"
drill. After you drill each hole
-
40x3/4" Phillips head screw
13.
Position the cabin
front contacts the cardboard shim and the
top
on the fuse sothe
17.
Use a Dremel tool with a carbide cutter or a
similar type of rotary tool, or small scissors to cut
the window openings along the cutlines inside the
cabin top. The window outlines in the cabin top are
about
1
/1
6
smaller than the windows themselves.
58-
3. Remove the crutch from the fuse and press
4
-
40 blind nuts into the holes in the top of the
crutch. Glue them with a little thin CA.
4.
Lightly
crutch formers
Place the crutch on the fuse with the cardboard
shims. Slip a piece of wax paper between the shim
and crutch formers at the back and front of the
crutch. Fasten the crutch to the fuse sides with four
spray the edges of the crutch and
F7B
and
F2B
with CA accelerator.
Page 23
4-40
x
3/4"
from inside the bottom of the fuse (we use a long
Great Planes
GPMR8002). Position the cabin top on the crutch.
Tape the cabin top to the fuse sides.
5.
medium CA bottle.
simultaneously press the side of the cabin top
down and to the side and glue the cabin top to the
crutch with a small fillet of medium CA.
small section at a time, making sure the crutch is
pressed down to the fuse main side stringer as you
glue. You should be able to reach all areas of the
crutch through the window cutouts. Since you pre-
primed the crutch with CA accelerator, you should
have to hold the parts together for only a few
seconds. Glue both sides
the crutch.
Note:
the top
not to glue the cabin sides or the crutch to the fuse
main side stringer. This should not be a problem
you do not use too much CA.
cap screws and washers accessible
3/32"Hexdriver Ball Wrench,
Make sure you have aCAapplicator on your
Do
not build up a large fillet of CA between
of
the crutch and the cabin sides. Be careful
A
little section at a time,
Do
of
the cabin top to
only a
6.
Glue the cabin top to the front and aft cabin
formers. Hint: It will be easier to glue the cabin
formers to the cabin top
fuselage on its nose and on its tail cone.
7.
Remove the cabin top and add medium CA
areas you couldn't reach before. Fasten the cabin
top to the fuse and lightly sand the fuse to match
the cabin top.
8.
Cut
if
accommodate the fuel tank.
the front cabin former and the crutch
if
you carefully place the
-59-
FIT
THE
WIND0
Note: The windows are individually cut and glued
to the inside of the cabin top.
1.
Cut each of the molded clear plastic windows
along the cutlines which are approximately 1/8"
outside of the raised edges. Sand the edges
smooth and even with 220
care not to scratch the windows.
2.
to
to
Fit the bottomofoneofthe windows in the
bottom of the matching window opening in the
cabin top. Observe how much the top, front and aft edges of the window openings must be
trimmed
Remove the window and use a rotary tool with a
sanding drum
dowel to enlarge only the top, front and aft edges
of
fits.
cutouts
so
the window will fit the rest of the way in.
or
sandpaper wrapped around a
the window opening until the window accurately
Do
not trim the bottom edge of the window
so
the windows remain in line.
3.
Fit the rest of the windows the same way.
Beech
Fact:
first met at the Kansas based Travel Air
1920's.
was the office manager. They married in
1932,
Olive formed the Beech Aircraft
into production was the Model
wing biplane which later became known as the Beech
Staggerwing.
WalterH.Beech and Olive Ann Mellor
Thete, Walter served as president and Olive
with
two
other business associates, Walter and
WS
-
grit sandpaper. Use
Co.,
whose first plane
17R
negative-stagger
Co.inthe
1930.
late
In
Page 24
SHEET THE BOTTOM
OF
THE WING CENTER SECTION
1. Install your servo extension cords,
connectors and air linesifyou are installing
retracts. The servo extension cords don't have to
be connected
have to be connected to the retracts but they
should be installed
Plan this carefully. Be certain you have connected
both aileron extension cords into the same "Y"
connector and both flap extension cords into the
same "Y" connector. Give yourself plenty of slack
on the wires and air lines
connect everything after you cover your model.
to
the servos and the air lines don't
so
you can finish the sheeting.
so
you will be able
"
Y"
MAKE THE BELLY PAN
1. Bolt the wing tothe fuselage. Place the diecut 1/8" plywood
front of the wing
F2. Trim the bottom of F2W
the bottom fuselage sheeting
belly pan sheeting). Carefully glue
the wing.
belly pan former
so
it is resting against fuse former
so
(to
pan
F2W
it sits 3/32"below
accommodate the
F2Wtoonly
on the
4. With the wing off the fuse, sand one of the 1
x
1-3/4" x 2
curvature of the right side of the fuse at the leading
edge of the wing. Bolt the wing
the side and rear of the wing fairing block
between the wing and the fuse as shown in
the photo. Glue the wing fairing block
wing only.
"
wing fairing blocks
to match the
to
the fuse. Sand
so
it fits
to the
"
2. Sheet the bottom of the wing center section
with two 3/32
3/32
"
that goes over the wing bolts, first cut two
lengths from the 9/16"diameterx8
tube.
tubes. Glue the cardboard tubes
and wing bolt plates. After the glue dries, cut and
sand the tubes flush with the sheeting.
Hint:
the ends of the bottom aft sheet
correct spacing at the ends of the flaps.
"x3
balsaifneeded. Before you glue the sheet
Glue that sheet in position with the cardboard
Temporarily fit the flaps to the wing and cut
"x30"balsa sheets and leftover
"
cardboard
to
the sheeting
to
provide the
1"
2. From a 3/16
6-1/2" piece, two 4-3/4" pieces and two 2-1/4"
pieces to make the
end of the stringers
of the bottom of the wing. Glue them in position.
Hint:
Place a piece of sandpaper on the bottom of
the wing and move the stringers back and forth,
sanding them to the correct shape.
3. Sheet the belly pan with leftover 3/32"balsa
sheeting.
filler. After the filler dries, remove the wing and
sand the belly pan
"x3/16
"x30"balsa stick, cut one
belly pan stringers.
so
they conform to the shape
Feather
the edges with lightweight hobby
to
blend with the fuse.
Sand one
-60-
5.
Remove the wing and sand the wing fairing
block to match the shape of the
The fairing block extends below the bottom
sheeting,
bottom of the wing with filler. Shape and fit the
other fairing block the same way.
pan to the wing and sand it smooth after it dries.
so
blend it tothe belly pan and the
6. Use lightweight hobby fillertoblend the belly
top
of the wing.
Page 25
BUILD AND FIT THE COWL TO THE
FUSELAGE
3. Tape the cowl together with masking tape.
Test fit the cowl
thin CA.
to
the fuse. Glue the seams with
-
-
t
Note:
If
the head of the engine, the needle valve or
carburetor interferes with the cowl, remove them
for the time being.
I
1.
Cut the molded
side, and front along the cutlines (seen from the
inside). Cut a notch in the top of the right cowl half
and the bottom
do not interfere. On the
left cowl sides, cut about 1/8" aft of the cutlines.
This gives you a little extra material to work with
you can accurately fit the cowl to the fuse. Cut the
openings in the front of the cowl.
use a rotary hand tool with a cutting burr followed
by a sanding drum. Sand the edges
straight and even.
2. Thoroughly sand all areas that are to be
glued, including a 1/2" strip along the inside edges
of
the cowl, so the fiberglass reinforcement tape
will stick.
ABS
cowl
left side, right
of
the left cowl halfsothe lap joints
aft
edgesofthe right and
If
you have one,
so
they are
so
4.
Test fit the die-cut
on the firewall.
cowl rings
balsa fuselage sides approximately 1/16
cowl rings to the firewall.
5.
With
fuselage. Mark the high spots on the aft edge of the
cowl where you need to remove material
accurately fits the fuselage and aligns with the
backplate of your spinner. At first the cowl will be
too long but as you zero
backplate of your spinner on your engine to help
you align the front of the cowl. This is a cut
procedure that takes a little time, but it's one of
those areas where you can really show your
craftsmanship. Take your time and remove small
amounts of material at a time.
If
so
they are inset from the edges of the
the engine mounted, fit the cowl to the
1/8"
necessary, sand the edges of the
plywood
cowl
rings
"
. Glue the
so
-
in on the fit, place the
-
and-fit
-
61
-
6. Test fit eight 1/2"
mount
blocks
Sand the blocks
cowl. Glue them in place. Mark the center
cowl mount block on the fuselage. Test fit the cowl
to the fuselage
interferes with the cowl.
Ll
7.
Securely tape the cowl to the fuselage. Using
the marks as a guide, drill
cowl and the cowl mount blocks
it
aft edge of the cowl. Hint: After you drill each hole,
screw in a #2
accurately aligned as you proceed.
8. Remove the cowl and enlarge the holes
the
cowl
only
with a 3/32"drill bit.
9.
Test fit the cowl to see how it fits. Use #2 x
3/8" screws to hold it in place.
x
in the notches in the cowl ring.
so
to
x
1/2"x5/8"
they match the shape of the
make sure none of the blocks
1/16
"
holes through the
1/4"
in front of the
3/8" screw to keep the cowl
maple
of
cowl
each
in
Page 26
10.
If
the bottom of the cowl to clear the landing gear
wire.
whatever material is necessary
nose strut and steering arm will clear the cowl.
of
you have fixed landing gear, cutaslot in
If
you have retractable landing gear, remove
11.
Remove the cowl and make a template out
thin cardboard to locate the needle valve.
so
the retractable
13. Remove the cowl and cut the hole for the
needle valve. Start with a small hole. Mount the
cowl to the fuselage and check your accuracy.
Enlarge the hole while you simultaneously change
its position if necessary.
14. Use the same template method to make
holes for the glow plug, exhaust, fueling system
and engine head
fuel filler valve and retract fill valve are up to you,
but we have provided die
mounting brackets
the SuperTigre
one area,
portion of the fins without any
if
necessary. The location for the
-
cut
1/8"
for these items. The head on
.75 barely
so
we just ground away that small
contacted the cowl in
ill
effect.
plywood
16. Fill the seams in the cowl with Bondo filler.
There are other fillers that you can use, but we
have found that Bondo works the best. Squadron
Green or White putty also works well but it takes
to
longer
putty for smaller parts like the tail cone.
Here are some tips for applying the Bondo to your
cowl:
1.
with 150
Bondo.
2. Mix the Bondo
as much time as possible to apply it.
3.
enough to fill one seam at a time.
dry and shrinks. You could use Squadron
Thoroughly
Bondo cures withinafew minutes,somix only
roughen all seams and other areas
-
grit sandpaper where you will apply
thoroughly
but
rapidly
to allow
15.
Make sure you have thoroughly sanded the
inside seams of the fuselage. Use 30
1
"
wide
to glue
inside the cowl. Add
inside of the cowl over the holes for the cowl mount
screws. Redrill the holes after the epoxy cures.
fiberglass cloth
1
"
squares of glass cloth
-
minute epoxy
over all the seams
-62-
4. Use an expired credit card or a piece
a
spatula
as
build up a slight moundover the seam.
5. Apply only enough Bondo to fill the seams and
uneven edges. It's easier to apply
than it is to sand
to apply Bondo. Bend your spatula to
gobs
of it off.
of
plastic
a
second coat
Page 27
6.
Wet-sanding is best. Start with 150-grit
sandpaper. Transition to finer grits as you proceed
and finish with 400
done, your cowl should look something like the one
in the photo
spots near the seams.
Note:
Refer to the
the fuse plan.
cutout in the bottom of the cowl for the nose wheel
will be large enough
for cooling the engine. In this case the cowl flaps
are optional.
have to build either the
allow adequate air exit. The aft cowl flaps are cut in
the bottom of the fuse and are in the scale location.
If
you add the aft cowl flaps you will have to cut
holes in the firewall to allow the air to exit through
the aft cowl flaps. The forward cowl flaps are cut in
the cowl and are not in the scale location, but are
easier to build.
You've come a long way. This is the end of the
construction portion of the model
more woodwork. It's all just details and other last
minute stuff before your Bonanza will be ready to
paint and cover!
-
grit sandpaper. When you're
-
just enough Bondo left to
cowl flaps
If
you are installing retracts, the
to
allow an adequate air exit
If
you are installing fixed gear you will
aftorforward
fill
in the low
on the side view of
cowl flaps to
so
there's no
FINISHING
FUELPROOFING
You may fuelproof your model before or after you
cover it. Fuelproof all areas that may be exposed to
fuel or engine exhaust such as the wheel wells,
wing bolt recesses in the wing, the firewall, fuel
tank compartment, the front of the belly pan and
former F2 in the fuse, etc. Use thinned 30
epoxy, finishing resin or fuelproof model paint.
Note:
Fuelproof the wheel wells and flap wells
before
you cover the wing. Otherwise, the paint
may soak through the balsa and add blemishes to
your covering.
CABIN DETAILS
1.
If
you have decided toinstall the Top Flite
Beechcraft Bonanza Scale Interior Kit, you may do
so
at any time, but some
required
cover and paint your model. It is not necessary to
permanently install the interior kit at this time, but
you should at least fit it and prepare it for painting.
Refer
the Scale Interior Kit.
perform this step.
full Cabin Interior, glue the die
instrument panel
the plan. Use the
to make the
as a manila folder. Lightly spray the glareshield
with CA accelerator. Glue it
and the cabin top. Add whatever other details you
so
we recommend you install it before you
to
the installation instructions included with
2.
Make sure your windows are fitted
glareshield
fitting and maneuvering
If
you're not going to install the
to
the crutch where shown on
glareshield template
-
cut
from thin cardboard such
to
the instrument panel
-
minute
before
1/8"
plywood
on the plan
you
would like to the cockpit and mount your pilots
piece of leftover
fuselage sides.
1/8"
plywood glued between the
SCALE DETAILS
Antennas
This is the fun part
rushing to get your model finished for competition).
There are many scale details you can add
is
Bonanza that will really bring it to life. We added
the antennas and the air scoop as shown on the
plans. The air scoop is the only one of these that is
included with your kit and is molded in two halves.
Build the air scoop the same as the cowl and tail
cone. The antenna
then primed and painted white. Use maple,
basswood, or a similar dense grain hardwood. Drill
1/16
"
a
tubes. When your scale details are finished, mount
them
We recommend that you do not
the antennas to your model, so you can replace or
repair them in case of hanger rash.
hole for antennas made from
to
1/16
your model with double-sided tape, or
"
double-sided foam tape, or rubber cement.
(if
you're not staying up late
bases
were carved from wood,
permanently
Cowl
The
louvers
the louvers out or just paint them black.
Scale Lighting
We've provided details for how tomount your wing
tip lights while you were building the wing. The rest
of the wire routing and hookups are easy because
everything else is open and accessible. Fit the rest
are molded into the cowl. You can cut
1/16
to
to
your
"
brass
mount
a
-63-
Page 28
of the wiring and lights.
circuit boards and the battery holders,
relocate them in case you need to adjust the C.G.
Follow the instructions that come with the lighting
kit to hook up and operate your lights.
Temporarily
mount the
so
you can
FINAL SANDING
Nearly all imperfections in your wood structure will
show through the covering. Make one last check of
the entire structure. Repair dings or scratches with
filler. Sand all surfaces with progressively finer grits
of sandpaper.
6.
When you cover smaller parts with square edges
such as the elevators and ailerons, cover the ends
with separate pieces first. Then all you have to do
is wrap the covering around the top and bottom
and iron it down.
7.
When you cover sharp junctions like where the
stab meets the fuse, cut narrow strips of covering
(3/8” to 1/2" and apply them in the corners
you cover the major surfaces. The larger pieces of
covering will overlap the smaller pieces. This
technique also eliminates the need to cut the
covering after it has been applied.
before
PAINTING
COVER YOUR MODEL WITH
MONOKOTE FILM
It
is assumed that you are an intermediate to
advanced modeler,
details on covering techniques, but here are some
tips you should consider:
1.
Most importantly,
DIRECTLY ON THE SHEETING.
depends greatly upon the sheeting for its strength.
Modelers who do this tend to cut into the sheeting
and this will weaken the structure.
2. Remove all dust from the structure with a
vacuum with a brush attachment, compressed air
or a Top Flite Tack Cloth.
3. Use a Top Flite Hot Sock to minimize dents in
the wood from the iron.
4. Some modelers have three irons going at once:
one on high heat without a Hot Sock for stretching
the covering around curves like wingtips; one on
medium heat with a Hot Sock for bonding the
covering to large sheeted areas like the wing and
stab; and a Trim Iron for small areas.
5.
When you cover large sheeted surfaces such as
the wing, bond the covering in the middle and work
outward pushing out air as you proceed.
move the iron in a circular motion but move it span-
wise with the grain of the wood.
so
we won’t go into many
NEVER
CUT
THE COVERING
The Bonanza
Do
not
Recommended Covering Sequence:
Fuselage
1.
Tail junction strips as described above
2.
Stab bottoms, then tops
3. Fin
(if
4.
5.
6.
7.
straight tail) right, then left side
Fuse bottomaft, then front
Fuse sides
Turtle deck (may be done in one or two pieces)
Front deck aft of cowl
Wing
1.
Hidden areas and
flap and aileron area
2. Bottom of center section
3. Bottom
including the wing tips
4.
Top of the center section
5.
Top of one, then the other outer panel including
the wing tips
of
corners
one, then the other outer panel
such the TE in the
Control Surfaces
1.
Ends, bottoms, then tops of elevators, flaps and
ailerons
2. End and bottom of tip, then one side, then the
other side of the rudder (if straight tail)
3. Flap and aileron servo hatch covers
-
64
At this stage all your plastic pieces should have the
seams filled with Bondo or putty. Spray all the
molded plastic parts and scale accessories with at
least one coat of primer. We used Top Flite
LustreKote on just about everything that needed
to
be painted. Wet-sand between coats with 400grit sandpaper. Use Great Planes 1/8” EZ
Flexible Masking Tape (GPMRI
fine lines, Kyosho Masking Cover Sheet
(KYOR1040) for quickly masking large areas, a
Top Flite Tack Cloth (TOPR2185)
just before paining, and LustreKote paint for a
MonoKote matching finish.
For painting the pilots we recommend acrylic water
base paints such as the types found in craft stores.
This type of paint looks great on a pilot because it
is not glossy, and best of all, it cleans up with
water.
We recommend gluing the clear plastic wing tip
to
lenses
We used strips of Top Flite MonoKote Trim Sheets
to cover the clear wing tip lenses. Part of the wing
tips are to remain clear.
your wing before you cover or paint them.
000)
to
-
Mask
for masking
remove dust
Page 29
JOIN THE CONTROL SURFACES
(HINGING)
These instructions mention the V-tail which uses
two torque rods instead of a single joiner wire as
used on the straight
straight tail, follow these instructions except where
the torque rods are mentioned.
AWAY
FROM THE
1.
Start with the stab and elevators. Remove a
small strip of covering from the hinge slots. For the
V
-
tail, remove a small strip of covering where the
plastic bearingtubes contact the TE.
THE
CA WICKS
ALONG THE"TUNNELS
TO THE ENTIRE
HINGE
Q2.
Drill a 3/32"hole
hinge slots on the stab and elevators. A high speed
Tool@
Dremel
withacutting burr works best for this,
but you can use a drill or a sharpened brass tube
instead.
-
tail.Ifyou're building the
SLOT
ASSEMBLE, THEN APPLY6DROPS
OF
THIN CA TO CENTER
OF
HINGE, ON BOTH SIDES
"
SURFACE
1/2"
deep in the center of the
__I
__
3.Ifyou are building the V-tail, use coarse
sandpaper to roughen the part of the torque rods
that will be inserted into the ruddervators and the
plastic bearing tubes.
straight
-
tail, roughen the joiner wire. Use a
If
you are building the
toothpick to dab a small amount of petroleum jelly
on the ends of the V
-
tail plastic bearing tubes to
keep epoxy out.
4.
Fit the hinges in only the stab or elevators
(without glue). Fill the torque rod holes in the
-
elevators with 30
minute epoxy. Install the torque
rods in the elevators. Wipe away excess epoxy
with a cloth dampened with alcohol.
5.
Join the elevators to the stab with the hinges.
If
necessary, insert a pin in the center of the hinges
to keep them centered in the elevator and stab.
1/64
"
Make sure there is approximately a
between the elevators and the stab
so
gap
you do not
glue them together.
6. Cut a paper towel into 2"squares. Add six
drops of thin CA to the center of the hinges on
both the top and bottom.
Use the paper towel
squares to absorb excess CA from the hinge gap
before it cures.
Do
not useCAaccelerator on any of the hinges
and do not glue the hinges with anything but
CA.
Do
thin
not attempt to glue one half of the
hinge at a time. The hinges will not be properly
secured and could come out while the model is
in flight.
-65-
Glue the bearing tubes tothe TE with a dab of
30
-
minute epoxy.
8.
Use the same hinging method to join the
rudder to the fin (if building the straight tail) and the
ailerons to the wing.
9.
coarse sandpaper. Mix enough 30
Thoroughly roughen the flap hinges with
-
minute epoxy to
do one flap at a time. Use a piece of leftover wire to
thoroughly coat the holes in one of the flaps and
the holes in the wing with the epoxy. Coat one side
of the flap hinges with epoxy and insert them into
the wing. Coat the other side of the hinges with
epoxy and join the flap. Wipe away excess epoxy
before it cures.
10.
Position the flap and the hinges sothe
flap is centered and fits the wing. Tape the flap in
place until the epoxy is fully cured.
11.
Join the other flap to the wing the same way.
12.
Reinstall any pushrods you may have
disconnected while covering, and mount the control
horns to the ailerons.
GLUE IN THE WINDOWS
1.
Use a special canopy glue such as
Products
Z
RC/56
(JOZR5007)to glue the windows
to the cabin top. This kind of glue is formulated for
plastic and dries clear. Wipe away excess glue with
a
tissue dampened with water before it dries. Use
masking tape to hold the windows to the inside of
the cabin top until the glue is dry.
If
use CA, use medium CA (not thin). Use it
sparingly
and
do not
use accelerator.
J
&
Z
you decide to
Page 30
2.
Trim the clear plastic
cone.
tail lens
to
fit
the tail
MAKE DOOR AND HATCH OUTLINES
Use a Top Flite Panel Line Pen to draw the door
and baggage compartment hatch outlines or use a
Smart Stripe
Film and iron them on.
Pen, use a straightedge with a few pieces of
masking tape stuck to the underside of the
straightedge to keep the ink from
underneath it. Use the Top Flite Scale Template for
rivets, hatches, fuel caps and other details. Some
cleaners will remove the ink lines
cleaner before you spray it on your model. You can
remove mistakes with alcohol. You'll need to touch
up some of the lines from time to time because
they fade with lots of handling and fuel spillage.
TM
to cut narrow strips of MonoKote
If
you use the Panel Line
wicking
so
test your
APPLY THE DECALS
The decal sheet does not give you everything you need
to completely trim your model, but it does provide most
of the intricate detailing and difficult items.
1.
Study your documentation package and the
photos on the box to decide where to place
the decals.
2. Thoroughly clean your airplane before applying
decals.
3.
Cut out the decals and carefully apply them to
your model. You can
by first applying soapy water (just a teaspoon of
dish detergent to a quart of water) to the model's
surface.
piece of soft balsa or a credit card wrapped with a
tissue. Blot the surface dry and let the decal cure
for at least 12 hours before running the engine.
Squeegy
float
the decals into position
out
the water and soap with a
GET YOUR MODEL
READY
BALANCE YOUR MODEL
NOTE: This section is VERY important and
must NOT be omitted!
properly balanced will be unstable and possibly
unflyable.
TO
FLY
A
model that is not
6-3/8"
(162
mm) back from the leading edge at
the wing root
plans. This is the balance point at which your
model should be balanced for your first flights.
Later, you may experiment by shifting the balance
up to 1/2" forward or 1/4" back to change the flying
characteristics.
forward
tracking, but your Bonanza may then require more
speed for takeoff and become more difficult to slow
down for landing. If you move the balance
may make the Bonanza more agile with a lighter
feel
and allow you to slow the model more for
landing. In any case,
we recommend and do not at any time balance
your model outside the recommended range.
How to mark the balance point.
point is measured from the
Since the center section of the wing is not visible
when the wing is on the fuse, you need to mark
the balance point outward a few inches
can see where to lift the wing when it's bolted to
the fuse. To do this, mark the balance point with
-
tip pen or tape on
a felt
section. Place a straightedge across the marks.
Mark the balance point along the straightedge
further out on the wing. Mount the wing to the
fuselage.
as shown in the sketch and on the
If
it may improve the smoothness and
you move the balance point
aft
please start at the location
center leading edge.
both ends
The balance
so
you
of the center
it
Use the plans to make templates of the doors and the
luggage hatch from a clear butyrate plastic sheet.
Sand the edges of the templates with 320
sandpaper. Stick a few layers of masking tape to the
bottom of the templates near the edges to raise it off
the surface. This will prevent the ink from
underneath. Cut
so
you can tape them in position without the tape
extending over the edges. Position the templates on
the fuse. Trace the outlines with a Top Flite Panel
Line Pen.
a
hole in the center of the templates
-
grit
wicking
1. See the
mark the balance point on the
both sides of the fuselage. The balance point is
shown on the plan
Hot Tip
that follows to accurately
top
of the wing on
(CG),
and is located
-
66
-
2. Temporarily place your receiver and battery
pack inside the fuselage where you plan to mount
them, or lay them on the fuselage over the location
you plan to mount them. This is
the mounting location of the battery pack or
receiver to change the C.G. without adding any
additional nose or tail weight. You can do the same
with lighting system components as well (if you are
installing the lighting package). Otherwise, all other
components should be in the model and it should
be in a ready
empty.
-to-
fly condition with the fuel tank
so
you can change
Page 31
3. With the wing attached to the fuselage, lift the
model at the balance point. We use the Great
Planes C.G. Machine
this. If the tail drops, the model is tail heavy and
must shift your battery pack or other
you
components forward or add weight to the nose.
the nose drops, it is nose heavy and you must shift
your battery pack or other components aft or add
weight to the tail. In order to save weight, relocate
your battery pack and/or receiver or other
components before you add additional weight to
arrive at the correct C.G. You may easily install
nose weight by using a spinner weight or gluing
lead weights to the firewall. You may add tail
weight by sticking on Great Planes (GPMQ4485)
stick
-
on lead weights on the bottom of the fuselage
under the tail. Later, if the balance proves to be
OK,
you can open the fuse bottom and glue these
in permanently. Never stick weights to the cowl
because it is not designed to support weight.
T
M
(shown in the sketch) for
BALANCE THE AIRPLANE
LATERALLY
INSTALL YOUR RECEIVER, BATERY
PACK AND RETRACT COMPONENTS
The location of your receiver and battery pack may
If
be determined by the C.G. On our prototypes we
mounted the battery pack and receiver nearly as
far forward as possible. With this arrangement, no
additional ballast was required to achieve the
recommended C.G. If this is where you wish to
mount your battery pack and receiver, you may use
mounting plates
the
fashion your own method to secure your battery
pack and receiver.
1.
Securely
to
back
the die-cut
plate.
provided with this kit or
glueadie-cut
1/8"
1/8"
plywood
plywood
radio mounting
plate
2.
Secure your battery pack to the mounting
a
plate with
rubber in between. Test fit the battery pack and
mounting plate in the front of the fuse as shown in
the photo.
fuse side doubler.
3.
your receiver antenna through the antenna tube.
Note:
reinstall your receiver or battery pack, first hook the
rubber bands to the tabs on the mounting plate.
Next, stretch the rubber bands and slide your
battery pack and receiver underneath.
few rubber bands and
Securely
Install your receiver the same way. Route
If
in the future you have to remove, then
glue the mounting plate to the
1/4"
thick foam
1.
Mount your wing.
2.
With the wing level,
model by the engine propeller shaft and the fin
or tail cone (this may require two people).
this several times.
If
one wing always drops when you lift the
3.
model, that side is heavy. Balance the airplane
by gluing weight inside the other wing tip.
airplane that has been laterally balanced
carefully
lift the
Do
An
will
track better in loops and other maneuvers.
4.
Cut the two
3/4". Glue the dowels into the holes you drilled in
the bottom of former
servo trays
Temporarily strap the air tank in place using two
rubber bands.
-
67
-
1/8"
x
1
"
dowels to a length of
F6.
so
they are even with the servo rails.
Cut the aft edges of the
Page 32
4
-
CHANNEL RADIO SETUP
(STANDARD
MODE2,V-TAIL
SETUP)
12. Adjust your pushrod hookups and set up
your radio to provide the control surface
movements as follows.
5.
Mount your air control
valve
and servo. On
our prototype we mounted the air control valve to
the right nose steering servo tray. Mount yours the
same way or find an alternate location. Mount the
before
1/4"
x
3/8"
you mount
servo to two rails made from leftover
basswood.
Note:
It will be easier to connect your
air lines to the air control valve
the air control valve in the airplane.
6. Mount your on/off switch and charge jack in a
location where it will not get covered with engine
exhaust residue.
7.
Connect your battery pack, receiver, switch and
servos. Connect the air lines to your air tank with a
"T"
fitting connected to your air fill valve. If you are
installing the Cabin Interior, route the air lines and
servo cords through notches in the formers.
Recheck the C.G.
9.Ifyou haven't already centered your servos,
take the servo arms off all the servos and turn on
your transmitter and receiver (this is most important
for the flaps). Center the trims and put the servo
arms back on your servos and secure them with
the screw.
10. While you're at it, double-check all the
servos and make the servo arms are secured and
make sure all the clevises have a
silicone
retainers.
11. Make sure the control surfaces move in the
proper direction as illustrated in the following
sketches.
LEFT RUDDERVATOR MOVES UP
RIGHT RUDDERVATOR MOVES UP
RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN
LEFT RUDDERVATOR MOVES UP
RIGHT RUDDERVATOR MOVES DOWN
NOSE WHEEL TURNS RIGHT
CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN
4-CHANNEL RADIO
(STANDARD
MODE
ELEVATOR MOVES UP
RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON MOVES
RUDDER MOVES RIGHT
NOSE WHEEL TURNS RIGHT
CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN
68
-
SETUP
2)
V-TAIL
These control surface throws are for the
CONTROL SURFACE THROWS
V-tail
model only. We recommend the following control
surface throws:
NOTE:
Throws are measured at the
widest part
of the control surface.
High Rate Low Rate
ELEVATOR:
15/16"up518" u p
15/16"down5/8" down
AILERONS:
3/4" u p1/2" u p
3/4" down1/2" down
FLAPS:TakeoffLanding
1" down2"down
Right Left
Elevator Elevator
RIGHT RUDDER:*
LEFT RUDDER:*
*This is the amount
1/4" down1/4" up
3/4"up
of
elevator throw with ruddet
1/2" down
input only.
Caution:
your Bonanza at the flying field.
lay the fuselage upside down resting
Use care when you assemble
DO
NOT
on
the cabin top, as this could cause the
windows to loosen.
Page 33
STRAIGHT TAIL CONTROL SURFACE
THROWS:
These control surface throws are for the
model only. We recommend the following
tail
:ontrol surface throws:
NOTE:
Throws are measured at the
Df
the control surface.
ELEVATOR:
RUDDER:
AILERONS:
FLAPS:Takeoff
NOTE: This applies to both the V-tail and
straight tail.
TRIM MIXING:
Elevator mixing, we recommend mixing
down
elevator at half flaps and 1/16"of
elevator at full flaps. This will keep the nose level
when the flaps are deployed.
The surface throws and balance point listed
in this manual are the ones at which the
Bonanza flies best. Set up your aircraft to
those specifications.
you would like to adjust the throws to suit
your tastes, that is fine. The Bonanza has
large elevators and does not require much
throw. Too much throw can force it into a
so
stall,
High Rate
11/16"up
1 1 /16" down
1"right
"
left
1
3/4"
up
314"
down
1"down
If
your transmitter has flap to
remember...
Low Rate
9/16"up
9/16
3/4"
314"
1/2" up
112" down
Landing
2
If,
after a few flights,
More
is not better.
widest part
"
down
right
left
"
down
straight
1/32
"
down
of
PREFLIGHT
CHARGE YOUR BATTERIES
Follow the battery charging procedures in your
radio instruction manual. You should
charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the
night before you go flying, and at other times as
recommended by the radio manufacturer.
BALANCE YOUR PROPELLERS
Carefully balance your propellers before you fly.
An unbalanced prop is the single most significant
cause of vibration that can damage your model.
Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts
loosen, possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration
may also damage your radio receiver and battery.
Vibration can also cause your fuel
will, in turn, cause your engine
We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop
"
Balancer'
a Great Planes Fingertip Prop Balancer
(GPMQ5000) in our flight box.
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep
to
run hot or quit.
FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY
The best place to fly your modelisan AMA
chartered R/C club flying field. Contact the AMA
(their address is on page
dealer for the club in your area and join it. Club
fields are intended for R/C flying, making your
outing safer and more enjoyable. The AMA also
provides insurance in case of a flying accident.
an RIC flying field is not available, find a large,
3)
or your hobby shop
always
to
foam, which
If
grassy area at least six miles from buildings,
streets, and other RIC activities. A schoolyard is
usually not an acceptable area because of people,
power lines and possible radio interference.
GROUND CHECK YOUR MODEL
If you are not thoroughly familiar with the
operation of R/C models, ask an experienced
modeler
control surface set
manufacturer's instructions to break
engine.
inspect your model closely
remain tight and your pushrods and connectors are
secure.
to
inspect your radio installation and
After you run the engine on your model,
-
up.
Follow the engine
to
make sure all screws
-
in your
RANGE CHECK YOUR RADIO
Ground check the range of your radio before the
first flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna
collapsed and the receiver and transmitter on, you
should be able
the model and still have control. Have an assistant
stand by your model and, while you work the
controls, tell you what the control surfaces
are doing.
Repeat this test
various speeds with an assistant holding the
model, using hand signals
happening.
correctly,
first.
Look
wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors,
poor solder joints in your battery pack or a
defective cell in your battery pack, or a damaged
receiver crystal from a previous crash.
to
walk at least 100 feet away from
with the engine running
to
If
the control surfaces do not respond
do not fly!
for loose servo connections or broken
Find and correct the problem
show you what is
at
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
NOTE: Failure to follow these safety
precautions may result in severe injury to
yourself and others.
Store model fuel in a safe place away from high
heat, sparks or flames.
engine or fuel as it is very flammable. Engine
Do
not smoke near the
-
69
-
Page 34
exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly carbon
monoxide
so do not run the engine in a closed
room or garage.
Get help from an experienced pilot when you
learn to operate engines.
Use safety glasses when you operate model
engines.
Do
not run the engine near loose gravel or sand;
the propeller may throw loose material in your face
or eyes.
When you start and run the engine, keep your
face and body as well as all spectators away from
the plane of rotation of the propeller.
Always be
movements and be
and very
deliberate
conscious
of hand
in your reach for the
aware
needle valve, glow plug clip, or other items near a
spinning propeller.
Keep loose clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs,
long hair or loose objects away from the prop. Be
conscious of pencils, screw drivers or other objects
that may fall out of your shirt or jacket pockets.
Use a
chicken stick
or electric starter and follow
the instructions to start your engine.
Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is
so
secure
that it will not pop off or get into the
running propeller.
Ask an assistant to hold the model from the rear
while you start the engine and operate the controls.
Make all engine adjustments from
behind
the
rotating propeller.
The engine gets hot!
Do
not touch the engine
during or immediately after you operate it. Make
so
sure fuel lines are in good condition
fuel will not
leak onto a hot engine and cause a fire.
To stop the engine, close the carburetor barrel
(rotor) or pinch the fuel line to discontinue the fuel
flow.
Do
not use your (or any body ekes') hands,
fingers or any body part to stop the engine. Never
throw anything into the prop of a running engine.
FLYING
The Top Flite Beechcraft Bonanza is a great flying
sport scale airplane that flies smoothly and
predictably, yet is highly maneuverable. Compared
to other scale models, its flight characteristics are
docile and forgiving. The Bonanza also has
excellent slow speed flight characteristics. It does
not, however, have the self
of a primary
R/C
trainer; therefore, you must either
have mastered the basics of R/C flying or obtained
the assistance of a competent R/C pilot to help you
until you are able to safely and competently pilot
the model by yourself.
FUEL MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT
A fully cowled engine may run at a higher
temperature than an un-cowled engine. For this
reason, the fuel mixture should be richened
engine runs at about
By running the engine slightly rich, you will help
prevent dead stick landings caused by overheating.
If
you have dual rates on your transmitter, set the
switches to
taking off in a crosswind. Although this model has
good low speed characteristics, you should always
build up as much speed as your runway will permit
before lifting off. This will give you a safety margin
in case of a
available runway as possible and practical. When
the plane has sufficient flying speed, lift off by
smoothly applying up elevator (don't
a steep climb!), and climb out gradually.
"
high rate"for takeoff, especially when
"
flame-out."Use as much of the
-
recovery characteristics
200
rpm below peak speed.
TAKEOFF
"jerk" it off into
Do
so
the
not use
flaps for your initial takeoff. After you have the feel
of the Bonanza, takeoffs may be made with the
flaps set at
Never use
100%
flaps for takeoff
50%.
,ecause of the high drag.
1.20
4-STROKE NOTE:
stroke engine, you must manage the throttle on takeoff
and throughout the flight! Use slightly more than half
throttle for your first few takeoffs and be ready to apply
right rudder to counteract torque as you increase
power. Add power gradually until you become familiar
with the Bonanza's flight characteristics.
If you have installed a
1.20
4-
FLIGHT
We recommend that you take it easy with your
Bonanza for the first several flights, gradually
getting acquainted
engine gets fully broken
maneuver at a time, learning how she behaves in
each. For ultra
maneuvers, we recommend using the low rate
settings as listed on page
elevator may be required for crisp snap rolls and
spins. With a
scoots along,
when performing high
as split
-
esses and loops.
CAUTION
If, while flying, you notice any unusual sounds, such
as a low
surface
components of your airplane, any time you detect
flutter you must immediately cut the throttle and land
the airplane! Check all servo grommets for
deterioration (this may indicate which surface
fluttered), and make sure all pushrod linkages are
secure and free of play.
once, it probably will flutter again under similar
circumstances unless you can eliminate the free
or flexing in the linkages. Here are some things which
can result in flutter: Excessive hinge gap; Not
mounting control horns solidly; Poor fit of clevis pin in
horn; Side
tight bends;
Insufficient glue used when gluing in the elevator
joiner wire; Excessive
and Insecure servo mounting.
(THIS APPLIES
-
pitched"buzz,"this may indicate control
flutter.
-
with this realistic model as your
-
in. Add and practice one
-
smooth flying and normal
68&69.
1.20
engine the Bonanza really
so
you should manage the throttle
"G"
diving maneuvers such
TO
ALL
Because flutter can quickly destroy
If
the control surface fluttered
play of pushrod in guide tube caused by
Poor fit of Z
-
bend in servo arm;
playorbacklash
High rate
R/C
AIRPLANES):
in servo gears;
-
play
-70-
Page 35
LA
When it's time to land, fly a normal landing pattern
and approach. The Bonanza may bleed off
airspeed more rapidly than the sport planes you
are used to, but it still tends
ground effect.
a little power during approach and touchdown. For
your first landings, plan to land slightly faster than
stall speed and flare a few inches off the runway
onto the main wheels.
NDlNG
to
float
For this reason, be preparedtoadd
once it enters
THIS MODEL BELONGS TO:
NAME
If
you enjoyed building the Top Flite Beechcraft
Bonanza, try one of these other outstanding
size Gold Edition kits as your next project:
.60
Full flaps make the Bonanza very steady in the
FLAPS
landing pattern. Just carry a little extra power to
make up for the increased drag. This drag allows
to
make shorter, steeper approaches. Touch
you
down with a slightly nose
letting the nose gear contact the runway first. You
can execute touch
full flaps, but be ready
elevator. You should use only
off and climbing because the plane will accelerate
and climb much better than it would with full flaps.
If you have
priority should be to smoothly apply power and
establish a steady climb. After you reach a safe
altitude, reduce flaps, and then make your turn
get back into the landing pattern.
to
attempt ago-
Have a ball! But always stay in control
fly
in a safe manner.
and
GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
-
high attitude to avoid
-
and-go's and slow flyby's with
to
use a little more
half
flaps for taking
around,
your first
up
to
ADDRESS
CITY
Cut this placard out, fill it out and place it
inside your model.
STATEZIP
PHONE #
AMA # SFA
#
Cessna 182 Skylane (TOPA0300)
81"Wingspan, 10-1 2 Lbs.
F4U Corsair (TOPA01
62"Wingspan,7-
9.5
00)
Lbs.
P-47D Thunderbolt (TOPA0135)
63"Wingspan, 8.5-10.5 Lbs.
-
71
Page 36
TWO-VIEW
DRAWING
Use this layout for planning
your
trim
scheme.
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