Top Flite A0305 INSTRUCTION BOOK Part 2

BUILD

THE

BOTTOMOFTHE

FUSELAGE

Cut a45degree angle at the aft end of two

1/4"x3/8"x36

you can

Pin the stringers over their location on the

plan

outside of the fuselage. The front end of the stringers should align with the the front and extend past the firewall by plenty of T conform to the curvature of the plan.

splice

the

stepped balsa

them onto another stringer later.

step

is on the bottom and faces the

side stringers

TEP"

dashed lines

pins to hold the stringers down sothey

1/8".

near

Use

Position but do not glue formers F1through

F11

on the side stringers sothe embossed names

on the formers face forward.

Are your

3/76

pushrod holes drilled?

Glue formers F2through stringers, holding them vertical with a triangle. Don't be concerned about formers that are slightly warped or twisted be able to straighten these formers when you glue

3/16

the

stringers to them.

F11

to the side

degree

that is normal. You will

Test fit, then glue the die-cut

fuse side doublers

and to the side stringers. to the firewall until the next step. You may have to reposition some of your T interfere with the side doublers. Use your triangle to hold the formers vertical while you glue the doublers to them.

Glue the fu e side doublers to the firewall with

minute epoxy using the firewall angle gauge to make sure the firewall is set at the correct angle. Use a large C hold the doublers to the firewall until the epoxy fully cures. Cut one 3

1/2"

on both the left and right sides behind the firewall. Glue them in place with 30

balsa tri stock pieces. Shape the pieces

they fit between the firewall and the fuse sides

to formersF2throughF6only

clamp or masking tape tosecurely

long piece from each of the

minute epoxy.

1/8"

not

glue the doublers

pinssothey do not

plywood

(2)

1/4"

3/8"

3. Cut another

side stringer in half. Bevel one end of both stringers

x 36"stepped balsa

to match the angles you cut on the stringers already pinned to the plan.

the plan and glue them to the front stringers with thin CA. Trim the ends

F11

by approximately

the following photo.

Pin the stringers to

they extend past former

1/8".

You can see the

splice

Glue the firewall to the side stringers using

the die

cut

1/8"

hold the firewall at the correct angle.

plywood

firewall angle gauge

-37-

Locate two of the the outside of the tubes them through the holes in formers

they extend forward of formerF6by Do not

glue the pushrod tubes in place until instructed to

so.

pushrod tubes. Sand

glue will stick. Slide

through

F10

Refertothese photos for the next four steps.

10. Glue the 3/16"x 1/2"x9-7/8" balsa bottom

fuse sheeting support

even with the fuse side doublers. Cut and fit, but

do not glue,

seven 3/16 notches of the formers as shown on the plan and in the photo. Save the leftover pieces. The three bottom stringers extend You can see the stringers in the photo at step

page 38.

11. Glue the fronts of the three bottom stringers to the sheeting support, then use your 90 degree triangle

and glue the bottom stringers

12. Glue the 3/16"x 3/16"side stringers and

pushrod guide tubes

13. Cut the bottom

formers where shown on the plan from two 1/2" 36"balsa triangle sticks. Glue the corner stringers in place.

Disregard the servos.

in position. Sand the ends

the aft bottom fuse stringers from

x 3/16

"x36"balsa sticks to fit in the

the sheeting support.

hold each former at the correct angle

the formers.

corner stringers

fit on the

MOUNT THE SERVOS

Optional:

out the back of the fuselage, cut a third 3/16 pushrod guide tube (not included)

. Roughen the outside of the tube with coarse

21 sandpaper through the holes in the bottom of the formers until the front extends past former F7 by approximately

1/2". Glue the tube to the formers (this tube is

visible in the photo at step

2. Test fit your servos in the

(or

ruddervator/elevator

they fit. Glue a servo tray

front

the

3. Cut an 36"basswood stick tofit between the fuse sides approximately 1-7/8" aft of former F5 where shown on the plan. It will be helpful if you cut the rail length that will provide a fuse side doublers position without using glue. Position the aft servo tray rail between the fuse sides.

4. Position your servos into the servo trays and

place the trays on the rail and former Temporarily thread two nylon clevises just a few turns onto two 36

Install the pushrods into the pushrod guide tubes

and connect the clevises

your servos.

For routing your receiver antenna

(so

glue will stick) and slide the tube

5).

aft servo trays

doubler

from a 1/4"x3/8"

friction fit

servo arms on

of both trays.

aft

servo tray rail

servo trays) to make sure

it will temporarily stay in

one-end threaded pushrods.

toalength of

the bottom of

outer

between the

F5.

Position the rail and the servo trays sothe servo arms align with the pushrods. Glue the rail and servo trays this position. Drill 1/16 mount the servos with the screws that came with your radio.

former F5 and the fuse sides in

holes in the servo trays and

FINISH FRAMING THE FUSE

1. Refertothe photo in the following step and test fit a die on the right side of the fuse. The front edge of the

forward fuse doubler should align with the front

edge surface of the doubler and glue it in place. Be sure

that former F2 remains square and flat.

side of the fuselage. Use

leftover from the aft bottom stringers

forward bottom stringers

the firewall and

cut 1/8" balsa

the fuse side doubler. Wet the outer

Gluetheotherforwardfusedoublertotheleft

F2.

forward fuse doubler

3/16

3/16"balsa sticks

that fit in the notches of

Glue the stringers in place.

make the

Sand the stringers even with the formers.

Sand the fronts of the triangle corner stringers

they blend to the ply side doublers and the bottom sheeting support.

STEP

....

One at a time, remove the T-pins in the main side stringers aft of former angle from the outside

F6.

Replace them at an

they will not interfere with

the side sheeting.

late in

1950

military was evaluating the

at the age

as a trainer.

53.

During this time the

YT-34

prototypes for use

SHEET THE FUSELAGE SIDES

Glue

two

3/32

"x3

together to make a

6"x

48"fuse

the glue is dry, sand the sheets even and smooth.

3/32

SIDE

balsa sheets

side

sheet.

they are flat,

SHEET

After

Note:

The side sheet will not reach all the way

back to the end of the fuselage. We will instruct you

3/32

to add a piece of leftover

balsatothe

rear later.

Reposition the side sheet on the fuse. Mark and trim the front bottom of the side sheet above the bottom of the balsa front fuse doubler.

Test fit the side sheet and make any further

adjustments necessary for a good fit.

A little section at a time, carefully pry the fuse side from the fuse side doubler and apply thin or medium CA between the two. Quickly press them together. thoroughly glued

Glue the fuse side tothe side stringers with

this until the fuse side is

the side doubler.

thin CA and hold them together until the CA cures.

You

can really see how the bottom half of the fuse

will remain straight, true and flat

(as

flat as your building board) when you remove it from your building board!

Return to step 1and glue another side sheet

the left fuse side the same way.

MAIN

FUSE

STRINGER

True one edge of the fuse side Hold the side sheet on the right fuse side and mark the wing saddle and corner stringer on the sheet. Trim

3/16

the sheet about

outside of the lines.

Apply a bead of medium CA to the

ledge

portion of the side stringer from the to former

F6.

Working quickly, position the side sheet onthe ledge oftheside stringer and press it into position where you have applied the glue. After the CA dries apply thin CA sheet aft of former CA applicator tip, such as the Pacer Z

the side stringer and side

from inside the fuse. A long

Ends"with a Teflon@ tube, helps you apply the CA just where you need it.

Add pieces of leftover

the side sheets

photo at step

10.

Remove the T-pins and lift the fuselage from

the end of the fuselage. See the

11.

3/32

balsatoextend

your building board. Reinforce glue joints you couldn't reach earlier or those that don't look strong.

11. Trim, then sand the fuselage side sheeting and stringers that extend aft of former F11 are flush.

they

2. True the edges of both tail cone halves with coarse sandpaper and a bar sander. Thoroughly sand the mating surfaces

Carefully glue the tail cone halves together with

thin CA. Use just a few drops at a time.

Note:

Do not use CA accelerator on any of the ABS plastic. Accelerator may cause the plastic to develop cracks over time and prevent some types

of paint from sticking.

glue will stick.

you are building the straight tail, Skip to

the Sfraight Tail Stab and Fin

on page

Mount

45.

MOUNT THE V-TAIL STAB

Note:

Build accurately during the next few steps. The stab saddle and the aft formers align the stab and set the incidence, which will greatly affect the way your model flies.

GLUE THE TAIL CONE TOGETHER

1. Cut both formed ABS the cutlines. The cutlines can be most easily seen from the inside. We highly recommend a pair of curved Kyosho Lexan Scissors because you can cut straight lines or small tight curves easily and accurately. You could also use a small pair of regular scissors or score the plastic along the cutlines with a hobby knife and flex the plastic until the excess breaks free.

tail cone halves

along

3. Trim the clear plastic of the tail cone. Do not glue the tail lens in place until after you paint the tail cone.

If you are installing a tail navigation light, make an leftover ABS plastic and glue it to the rear of the tail cone. Drill a 5/32 for the tail light lens included with the lighting kit. Test fit the tail light.

aft tail cone former

tail lens

hole in the rear of the tail cone

to fit on the end

from a piece of

Refer to this photo for the following three steps.

V1. Glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood

former F11AV

sure F11AV

V2. Glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood

saddles

F11AV. The angle of the aft edge of the stab

saddle sets the angle of F11AV (which is 90').

V3. Glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood former to the top of F10 and the front edge of the stab saddles. F1OAV may be slightly aft of F10.

V4. Test fit the stab halves on the fuse by sliding them onto the joiner portion of former FlOAV.

Bevel the ends of the stabs as necessary all the way onto former F1OAV. Bevel the top, inner edge of the stab saddles to match the angle of the stabs but The ends of former F11AV should contact the

inboard ends of the stab

to the aft bottom former F11. Make

accurately

to the top of the main side stringers and

do not change the incidence angle.

aligns with F11

aft upper

V-tail stab

FIOAV

they fit

V5. Remove the stab halves. Temporarily

position the die

doubler

on the front of former FlOAV and test fit

the stab again. Make adjustments if necessary

cut 1/16"plywood

V-tail

the stab aligns the same as it did in the previous

#64

step. Use stabs to F11

V6. InsertaT-pin in the

rubber bands to temporarily hold the

AV.

center

of the top of the

firewall.

V8.

Glue the 1/16"plywood V-tailLEdoubler to

the front of former F1OAV with 30

minute epoxy.

Study the next three steps before you proceed.

Then work quickly and carefully.

V9. Mix enough 30-minute epoxy to thoroughly

joiners

coat both sides of the

on former F1OAV and the insides of the stab halves where they contact the

joiners.

Fiberglass to the epoxy

You may add some Great Planes Milled

thicken it and add

strength.

V11.Turn the fuselage over and inspect the glue

joints that hold the stab in place. If necessary, add

minute epoxy to joints that may not have

30 received enough.

V12. After the epoxy fully cures, sand the joiner portion of flush with the top and bottom of the stabs. Add balsa filler

it is smooth and matches the contour of the stab

needed. Sand the filler

sheeting.

Beech

Fact:

Magazine,

100

the

In the April, 1959 issue

the Beechcraft Bonanza was included in

best designs list.

The

only

other aircraft

Fortune

included in the list was another world famous airplane

the

Douglas DC-3.

V7.

Tie a loop on one endofa

string and connect it to the T

pin in the top of the

piece of

firewall. Put a piece of masking tape with an arrow

on it near the other end of the string. Slide the tape along the string and align the arrow with the corner of one of the stab halves. Swing the tape over to other corner on the other stab half. Shift the stab halves and slide the tape along the string until the arrow aligns with the corners on both stab halves. Once you have confirmed that the stabs will align, remove them from the fuselage.

V10.

Coat both sides of the forward V-tail

doublers, the front of the rear joiners, the tops of the saddles, the insides of the stab halves where they contact the joiners and the TE of the stabs where they contact the joiners with epoxy. Slide the

stab halves into position and use rubber bands to hold them in place. Use the pin and string to align the stab halves and,

necessary, use T-pins or masking tape to hold them in position. Apply a fillet of epoxy where both stab halves meet. Wipe away excess epoxy before it cures and do not disturb the model until the epoxy is fully cured.

-41-

BUILD THE TURTLE DECK

V1.

Glue formers

of their respective formers.

F7A, F8A

and

F9A

to the tops

V3.

Sand the stringers and formers sothat they

will blend.

V4.

balsa sheets-one sheet on the of the turtle deck and one sheet on the side of the turtle deck. Examine the four x aside to be used for the tops.

the skin for the bottom of the left turtle deck side from one of the the bottom. Use the bottom turtle deck sheet pattern on the plan approximate shape.

How to use the patterns to make the turtle

deck skins

Cut the pattern from the plan. Spray the back of

the pattern and one of the sheets with

Repositionable Spray Adhesive. Press the sheets

together and press the pattern onto one of the sheets. Cut the skins along the lines with a sharp

#11

The turtle deck is sheeted with four

balsa sheets and set the

V5.

Follow the Hot Tip that follows and make

1/16

balsa sheets you selected for

blade.

bottom

two

cut the sheet tothe

softest sheets

1/16

of each side

fop

of each

1/16

V7.

stringers, formers and stab.

Glue the bottom turtle deck sheet to the

V8.

bottom turtle deck sheet and the fuse side with a leftover piece of

other side the same way.

side of the turtle deck with the top turtle deck pattern on the plan and one of the soft

the turtle deck and trim where needed.

Fill in the small

/16"

V9.

Sheet the bottom of the turtle deck on the

V1O

Makeatopturtledecksheetfortheleft

balsa sheets you set aside. Test fit the sheet to

balsa.

wedge

between

/16"

the

V2.

Cut the turtle deck stringers from six

3/16

"x3/16

"x36

of the stringers that contact the stab

sheeting. Glue the stringers into the notches of the formers as shown on the fuselage plan and in the photo. Note the arrangement of the stringers at F9A. Important: Align the formers with a straightedge as you glue them

balsa sticks. Trim the aft edge

the stringers.

they fit the

V6.

trim where needed. The top edge of the sheet in the center of the third stringer. Ifnecessary, wet the sheet with a

Hint: The best way to accurately cut the sheet your model is with careful test fitting, close observation, and removing only small amounts of material at a time. When done this way, you will be rewarded with a great looking model even

before

favorite part!

Test fit the bottom turtle deck sheet and

50/50

solutionofalcohol and water

it will bend easier.

you cover it. Then, sheeting will be your

-42-

ends

fit

V11

turtle deck. Use a paint brush

50/50

(especially from the leading edge of the stab to the end of the sheet). Be patient, bend the sheet a little at a time, and keep applying water and alcohol.

. Gluethe

mixture of alcohol and water tothe sheet

top

turtledecksheettothe

liberally apply a

IMPORTANT NOTE:

sandasthey build

very end. to

even the turtle deck sheeting with the fuse

sides, you may do

thin

ABS fitted and must match the sheeting.

you prefertodo a little sanding now

the 1/16"turtle deck sheeting because the

tail cone

Some modelers prefer

instead of waiting until the

but

do not excessively

and ABS

cabin

have yettobe

V12. Sheet the other sideofthe turtle deck the same way. Fill in the space between the two turtle deck sheets on top near former F7A with a leftover piece of 1/16 balsa.

V13. Apply hobby filler where needed. Use masking tape isn't needed.

soitis

sheeting at the front should be even with F7A where it meets the

keep filler off the sheeting where it

not build up a fillet.

V14. Trim, then sand the turtle deck sheeting

flush with former F7A and The

step

on the side stringer.

It's beginning to look like a Bonanza, isn't it !

HOOKUPTHE RUDDERVATORS

V1.

Cut the remaining of the stabilizers. Test fit the ruddervators stab with the hinges.

V2. Tap threads into both nylon

with a 6 onto one of the bottom of the swivel is 7/16 torque rod. Thread the other swivel horn onto the other ruddervator torque rod the same amount.

Compare the swivels are threaded on

32 tap. Thread one of the swivel horns

two

hinge

slots

the TE

swivel

horns

ruddervator torque rods

from the end of the

torque rods and make sure both

the same amount.

-43-

the

V3. Use a straightedge and aballpoint pen

extend

the centerlines on the stab TE until they meet in the center of FIlA. Position the torque rods on the centerlines apart. Accurately mark the location of the portion of the torque rods (that fit into the ruddervators) on the TE of the stab.

V4.

ruddervators the marks

Remove the torque rods and fit the

the stab with the hinges. Transfer

theLEof the ruddervators.

V5. Drill a hole in the edge of the ruddervators at the marks you made. Cut a groove in the torque rods. Test fit the ruddervators with the torque rods.

Hint:

Use a brass tube sharpened at one end

cut the grooves for the torque rods.

the swivels are 3/16

center

LE's

accommodate the

of the leading

arm

the stab

V6.

Cut away former F1IAVsothe torque rods can move back and forth. Reposition the ruddervators with the torque rods and make sure they do not interfere with former look something like the photo when you're done.

V7.

Cut 7"frOm the non-threaded end of a

pushrod wire.

wire with a cloth dampened with alcohol or other

solvent. Cut six inner pushrod tube, then slide the bushings evenly spaced onto the wire. Make sure the bushings at the ends of the wire will not protrude from the guide tube or the control could become stuck during

If the bushings slide onto the wire easily, hold

flight.

them

place with a drop of thin CA. Make sure the CA cures before you proceed inadvertently glue the pushrods into the guide tubes! Slide a silicone and thread the clevis onto the wire about 15full turns. Make a second pushrod the same way.

Clean residual oil from the

1/4"

long

retainer

F11

bushings

onto a nylon

AV.

It should

,074''

from the white

you do not

clevis

V8.

Install the pushrods in the guide tubes. Temporarily connect the clevises to the torque rods and fit the ruddervators to the stab. Place a servo arm on your ruddervator servos.

1-1'4"

V9. ruddervators neutral, use a felt tip pen to mark the pushrods exactly arms. Remove the pushrods from the fuselage. Cut

them at the marks you made.

wire pushrod. Reinsert the pushrods into the fuselage and thread Temporarily connect the pushrods to the servos and ruddervators. Adjust the length necessary by turning the clevises in or out.

(FllTC)

material as needed to clear the torque rods and pushrods.

With the servos centered and the

1-1/4

from the holes in the servo

V10.

Silver solder a

FIT

V1.

Glue the die-cut balsa tail

on the end of the fuselage. Remove

threaded coupler

nylon clevis onto the couplers.

the pushrods

THE

TAIL

CONE

-44-

onto each

cone former

V2.

Glue the die-cut plywood tail

mounts

notches in the torque rods. Fit the tail cone on the aft end of the fuse and fasten it to the mounts with four screws.

the tail cone former. Cut U-shaped

top

of the tail conetoclear the

Make

sure the screws donot interfere

with the ruddervator torque rods.

V3.

After you have fitted the tail cone, skip to

Sheet the

bottom

of the fuserage

on page

Beech

Fact:

confusing Bonanzas. This is because there were versions built. The F33 produced in 1970 was the

short

long cabin (and is the subjectofour

Edition straight tail). The additional cabin on the formerly available additional new as six place seating and a larger cargo door, were available. Price

The F33A, it turns out, is one of the most

cabin and the produced in 1971 was the

Top Flite Gold

33A

matched the baggage space

only

the

33A

was

found cabin space other options, such

the V-tail. With this

$41,600

cone

#2x3/8"

50.

two

inches of the

(back then).

MOUNT THE STAB AND FIN

CENTER THE STAB

ST1. Glue the die-cut 118" balsa

F11A

former

to former F11

aft upper

ST2. Securely glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood

straight tail stab saddles

the top of the main

fuse side stringer and F11A.

ST3. Glue the die-c ut 118" plywood upper former

FlOA

to the top of former F10. Glue the front of the

stab saddles

ST4. Use a bar sander with 80

F 1OA.

grit sandpaper

sand the front of the stab sothe TE will align with F11A.

ST6.

TE. Use the die

Mark the

rod drill guide

center

cut 1/8" plywood

of the stab 1 / 8 from the

rudder torque

to drill a 3/16"hole through the center of the stab at the mark. Make sure you drill from the

top

of the stab.

Hint:

A6"piece of 3/16

brass tube sharDened at one end cuts a clean hole.

TOROUE

ROD

CUT

OFF

...

. .

ST7. Cut the threaded end of the

rod

the threads extend 5/8" as in the sketch.

Tap threads in the ,nylon

5/8"

rudder torque

swivel horn

with a 6-32 tap. Thread it onto the rudder torque rod until it is even with the end.

ST8. Insert the rudder torque rod through the

You'll

hole from the bottom of the stab.

have to

force it a little because of the bend in the wire.

ST1.

Cut

,074"

x36"

from the non-threaded end of a

pushrod wire.

Clean residual oil from the wire with a cloth dampened with alcohol or other solvent. Cut six 1/4" long

bushings

from the white inner pushrod tube, then slide the bushings evenly spaced onto the wire. Make sure the bushings at the ends of the wire will not protrude from the guide tube or the control could become

stuck during flight.

the bushings slide onto the wire easily, hold them in place with a drop of thin CA. Make sure the CA cures before you proceed

you do not inadvertently glue the pushrods into the guide tubes! Slide a silicone nylon

clevis

and thread the clevis onto the wire

retainer

onto a

about 15 full turns. Make a second pushrod the same way.

ST2. Connect one of the pushrods tothe nylon swivel horn on the rudder torque rod and slide the pushrod into the rudder pushrod guide tube in the fuselage. Position the stab on the stab saddle. Place a weight on top of the stab to hold it in place.

ST5.

sanding drum

Use a hobby knife or a Multi-Pro with a

cut F11Atoclear the horn on the

elevator joiner wire and the rudder torque rod.

Beech

Quote:

The

Beechcraft Bonanza is a

masterpiece of engineering; it's an airplane that

constitutes a modern miracle

aeronautical design; and in our opinion, marks a new milestone in the progress

aviation.

-45-

WalterH.Beech

August

1946

ST3.

former saddles.

Align the TE of the stab with the center of

1. Mark the TE of the stab above the stab

ST4. Insert a T-pin in the center of the top of the

firewall.

ST5. Tiealoop on one end of a54" string and connect it firewall. Put a piece of masking tape with an arrow on it near the other end of the string. Slide the tape

along the string and align the arrow with the corner

of one of the stab halves. Swing the tape over the other corner on the other side of the stab. Shift the stab and slide the tape along the string until the

arrow aligns with both corners of the stab.

ST6. Mark the

former F1

OA.

the T-pin in the top of the

of the stab where it aligns with

piece of

ALIGN THE STAB HORIZONTALLY

STl. Place two clothespins on the top offormer

F4 and rest a straightedge on the top

sides, propped up against the clothespins. See the

following photo.

ST2. Stand behind the fuselage and view the

stab and the straightedge

necessary, carefully sand one side of the stab

saddle

the stab will align with the straightedge.

ST3. Move the rudder pushrod wire back and

forth

to interfere with the. fuse sides and the rudder torque rod can move freely. pushrod wire or the saddle.

binding here.

the saddle. Place the stab on the saddle sothe marks you made earlier align. Before the epoxy cures, confirm alignment once more using the

and

epoxy has fully cured.

make sure the clevis and horn do

There must not be any possibility of

ST4.

Use 30-minute epoxy toglue the stab

string

technique.Donot proceed until the

seeifthey align.

necessary, adjust the

clearance

slot

in the stab

the fuse

not

-46-

MOUNT THE FIN

STI. Trim the sheeting on the bottom of the fin

until it matches the top of the stab. Make sure you trim both sides evenly the fin sheeting in front of former F1OA with fin rib R1 as shown in the photo. R1 of the fin should rest on former F10 and the rear of the stab.

the fin sits vertical. Trim

ST2.

basswood fin post on the front of F1

up into the fin until it hits the

position and remove the fin. Mark the location of

the fin post. Apply 30

and FlOA. Clamp the fin post to FlOA aligned with

the marks you made.

vertical and is centered on former

post aligns the front of the fin with the fuselage.

With the fin on the stab, place the

LE.

Hold the fin post in

minute epoxy to the fin post

Be certain the fin post i s

and slide it

FlOA.

it is even

The fin

BUILD

THE

TURTLE

DECK

A=A

ST3. After the epoxy cures, position the fin on the fin post and confirm that the fin remains vertical. Make adjustments if necessary. Use the

pin and

distance between the tip of the fin and the stab tips.

the fin with 30 or microballoons to and fin sheeting to the stab with 30 Make sure the former F11 the stab and the fin sheeting. Use masking tape

string

technique or a ruler tomeasure the

ST4. Glue the top of the fin post to the inside of

the bottom of the fin). Glue the base of the fin

minute epoxy and milled fiberglass

(so

all the epoxy won't run down

of the fin is

minute epoxy.

centered

. Apply a small fillet of epoxy between

hold the fin until the epoxy is fully cured.

over

Test

fit

temporarily hook up the pushrods. Make sure you can move the controls without any interference or binding. Make adjustments if necessary.

engine Model 18was being produced for the military in a variety of configurations. But as unpatriotic as it may have seemed at the time,

postwar years. The twin would certainly continue but the Model mark

the biplane was on its way out. The trend was

continuing toward all metal, light planes (started by

Luscombe as early as

workona

overtime basis. After much careful study

find

out

design, wind tunnel and static testing,onDecember

22,

1945, the first Bonanza was on its maiden voyage

test pilot Vern Carstens.

ilown

the rudder and eleva

one

hadtothink ahead

Staggerwing was a question

1934).

new

model wastobe done on a voluntary,

what typeofplanetobuild, and after hours

Beechcraft, design

itor and

The

the market

twin

-47-

ST1. Glue formers

their respective formers.

tops

ST2.

Cut

the seven 3/16 stringers into the notches of the formers as shown on the fuselage plan and in the photo. Note the arrangement of the stringers at F9A.

Important:

you glue the stringers

blend together.

1/16 each side of the turtle deck and one sheet on the

top of each side of the turtle deck. Examine the

four 1/16 softest sheets aside

"x3/16

Align the formers with a straightedge as

ST3. Sand the stringers and formers sothey

ST4. The turtle deck is sheeted with four

balsa sheets-one sheet on the bottom of

x3x24balsa sheets and set the two

F7A, F8A

turtle deck stringers

"x30"balsa sticks. Glue the

them.

be used for the top.

and

F9A

the

from

+ 25 hidden pages

Top Flite A0305 INSTRUCTION BOOK Part 2

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual