Top Flite A0305 INSTRUCTION BOOK Part 1

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Before beginning construction ofyour Bonanza you should

Fuselage Plan The correct site of the rudder/fintip block

57,

Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page Page

step 7-ChangeF2to F1

57,

step

Change F2toF1A.

58,

step

Change

58,

step

Change ".. Phillips head

60,

step

Change1"x 1-3/4"X2"

62,

step

Change Fuselage to "cowl

64,

step (wing)l-Add"as"after the word"such

68,

step10-

69,

control throw chart-Trim mixing section change references to

Ad d sure"after the word "make

.along the cut lines .

-3/8'x1-3/8'

."to".

Socket Head Cap Screw. ."

x 1-1/2'

make

these following corrections:

(BON9S08)

.about

is: 5/8" x

l/l6"

inside the cut lines.

Down

7/8'

x 6-1/4'

"Up"

WARRANTY.

materials and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right

In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no

liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final

assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all

user resulting liability.

the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the useofthis product, the

buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION

....

TOP

Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both

Flite's liability exceed the original cost of the

change or modify this warranty without notice.

BOOK

FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONSAND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USEOFTHIS MODEL.

purchase.

Top

Flite Models

P.O.

Box

788

Urbana,

61803

Technical Assistance-Call

(217) 398-8970

Entire Contents -Copyright

1997 30051

BON9P03

INTRODUCTION

PRECAUTIONS

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

Tail configuration Engine selection Exhaust system Retractable landing gear

...............................................................

Flaps

TOP FLITE SCALE ACCESSORIES

Operational lighting Scale cockpit interior

NOTES FOR COMPETITION MINDED MODELERS

DOCUMENTATION

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED

Accessories Building supplies

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

TYPES OF WOOD

METRIC CONVERSIONS

NOTES FROM THE DESIGNER

DIE-CUT PATTERNS

GET READY TO BUILD

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES

Make the skins for the tail surfaces Build the stab and elevators (straight Build the fin and rudder (straight Build the stab and ruddervators (V Make the stab tips

BUILD THE WING

Make the wing skins Preparations Build the outer wing panels

Sheet the top of the wing panels

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tail)

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tail)

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tail)

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TABLE

4 4 4 4 4

5 5

5 6

10 11 15 17 20

21 21 22 23

Finish the outer wing panels Build the center section Sheet the top of the center section

Prepare the bottom of the wing for sheeting.28 Sheet the bottom of the wing panels Cut out the wheel wells

Build the wing tips

Build the flaps

Build the ailerons

Mount the flap and aileron servos Join the wing panels

BUILD THE FUSELAGE

Preparation

Build the bottom of the fuselage

Mount the servos

Finish framing the fuse Sheet the fuselage sides Glue the tail cone together

MOUNT THE V-TAIL STAB

Build the turtle deck (V

Hook up the ruddervators

Fit the tail cone

MOUNT THE STRAIGHT-TAIL STAB AND FI N

Center the stab Align the stab horizontally

Mount the fin

Build the turtle deck (straight

Hook

up the rudder and elevator Build the dorsal fin Fit the tail cone

MOUNT THE ENGINE

MOUNT THE NOSE LANDING GEAR

Fixed gear Retractable gear

FINISH CONSTRUCTION

Hook

up the throttle Sheet the forward deck and bottom Fit the cabin top Mount the cabin top Fit the windows Mount the wing to the fuse

CONTENTS

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tail)

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tail)

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24 27 28

30 31 31 32 34 34 35

36 37 38 38 39 40

42 43 44

45 46 47 47 49 49 50

52 53

55 56 57

58 59 55

Sheet the bottom of the wing center section 60 Make the belly pan Build and fit the cowl to the fuselage

FINISHING

Fuel proofing Cabin details Scale details Final sanding Cover Top Flite MonoKotefilm Painting Join the control surfaces Glue in the windows Make door and hatch outlines Apply the decals

GET YOUR MODEL READY TO FLY

Balance your model Balance the airplane laterally Install your receiver and battery pack Control surface throws

PREFLIGHT

Charge your batteries Balance your propellers Find a safe place to fly Ground check your model Range check your radio Engine safety precautions

FLYING

Fuel mixture adjustment Takeoff Flying Landing

Flaps

TWO-VIEW DRAWING

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Back Cover

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68&69

60 61

63 63 63 63 64 64 65 65 66 66

66 67 67

69 69 69 69 69 69

70 70 70 71 71

-2-

PROTECT YOUR MODEL,

YOURSELF

OTHERS-FOLLOW

THIS IMPORTANT SAFETY

PRECAUTION

Your Beechcraft Bonanza is not a toy, but a sophisticated working model that functions very much like an actual airplane.

Because of its realistic performance,

not assemble and operate your Bonanza correctly, you could possibly injure yourself or spectators and damage property.

make your totally enjoyable, get assistance with assembly and your first flights from an experienced,

knowledgeable modeler.

avoid risking your model before you’re truly ready

solo.

about flying clubs in your area whose membership

includes qualified instructors.

Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,300 chartered clubs across the United States. We recommend you join the AMA which will insure you at AMA club sites and events. AMA Membership is required at chartered club fields where qualified flight instructors are available.

phone number below:

Your local hobby shop has information

You can also contact the Academy of Model

Contact the AMA at the address or toll

R/C

SINCE

modeling experience

You’ll learn faster and

1936

AcademyofModel Aeronautics

51 51 East Memorial Drive

Fax (765) 741

Muncie,

(800)

47302

435-9262

0057

you do

free

Your Top Flite Gold Edition Beechcraft Bonanza is intended for scale and general sport flying including stall turns, rolls, etc. Its structure is designed to withstand such stresses. your Bonanza for more abusive types of flying such as racing, aggressive aerobatics, or flying from rough fields, it is your responsibility to reinforce areas of the model that will be subjected to the resulting unusually high stresses.

Thank you for purchasing the

Edition Beechcraft Bonanza.

From this kit you can build either the V35B

V-tail (1 970, 1971

1971). be intimidated. Actually, the V

to build than the straight tail because it has fewer

parts! See page 7 for more comments on the differences between the V

Since this is a scale model with lots of detail, you’ll find it takes a little longer to complete than the sport models you’ve built before. But since this is a Top Flite Gold Edition kit, it isn’t more difficult to build than those sport models. The Top Flite

Bonanza uses the same materials and standard construction techniques you’ve already become accustomed to. You won’t have to learn anything new to end up with a first class scale model! Not only that, nearly all of the trim schemes you’ll find on full size Bonanzas are quite simple and should be easy to duplicate with Top Flite The Top Flite Beechcraft Bonanza is an excellent

Sportsman or Expert Scale subject. Its large size and accurate scale outline afford you the opportunity to go a ll out with as many extra details

as you like. And with the abundance of Bonanzas

at airports around the country, finding a full scale

plane to model shouldn’t be a problem. The option

of building either a V

up the possibilities even more!

mild

aerobatics such as loops,

you intend to use

NTRODU

)

you like the looks of the V-tail best, don’t

CTl

Top Flite Gold

or the F33A straight tail (1970,

tail is a little easier

tail and the straight tail.

MonoKote film!

tail or conventional tail opens

-3-

Anyone who has mastered a low wing sport model should be able to fly the Bonanza without difficulty. It handles very much like a full size Bonanza

Beechcraft Bonanza is eligible for IMAA* events. In order to be IMAA legal some of the control components and hardware may need to be replaced to conform to Giant Scale rules even though this model does not require heavy duty hookups.

the Top Flite Bonanza are available separately including a full cabin interior, in system, and a complete lighting kit. See the Scale Accessories section on page

information.

*IMAA (International Miniature Aircraft Association)

is an organization that promotes non

flying of giant scale models.

starting to build! broken or defective, or if you have any questions about building or flying this model,

please call us at (217) 398 glad to help. parts, please look up the part numbers and the

kit

of the carton) and have them ready when calling.

smoothandpredictable.

Because of its 81” wingspan, the Top Flite

Several scale accessories specially designed for

cowl exhaust

for more

competitive

International Miniature Aircraft Association

Please inspect all parts carefully before

identification number (stamped on the end

IMAA

205

Hilldale Road

Salina, KS 67401

any parts are missing,

you are calling for replacement

8970 and we’ll be

PRECAUTIONS

You must build the plane

plans and instructions.

model, as doing

unflyable model.

instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those instances you should assume the plans and written instructions are correct.

You must take time to

and

strong.

You must use a proper RIC class condition, the correct sized correct throughout your building process.

4. components on the ground and in the air.

every flight operating, and you must make certain that the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check external nylon clevises often and replace

them

you must competent, experienced

directions to end up with a well

components

You must properly

You must

they show signs of wear.

you are not already an experienced

NOTE:

We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you with a top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished model depends on how therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model, and no representations are expressed or implied as to the performance or safety completed model.

Remember: Take your time and follow

is straight and true.

may result in an unsafe or

In a few cases the plans and

that the model operates properly

test

the operation of the model before

insure that all equipment is

fly

the model

according to the

not alter or modify the

build straight, true

radio

that is in first

(fuel tank, wheels, etc.)

install

only with the help

R/C

pilot.

engine

all R/C and other

you

built model that

R/C

build

and

pilot of a

it;

your

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

TAIL CONFIGURATION

You

may build your Bonanza as a

or a

V-tail.

both. The main differences in construction are building the tail surfaces themselves, the way they mount to the fuse, and the turtle deck sheeting.

ruddewators

you will need a computer radio with V or a servo mixer such as the Ace MixMaster

(ACEM2510). However, the Bonanza will fly just

fine with elevators only and no rudder input.

not be intimidated by the V-Tail configuration. It flies beautifully and is as easy straight tail.

Complete instructions are provided for

you wish to utilize the elevators as

(elevators and rudder) on the V-tail,

ENGINE SELECTION

.60

The Bonanza will fly

recommended engines. The 4

and most

prop at lower RPM’s. This is often desirable for

scale realism. Many

produce about as much horsepower as the

popular

the Bonanza well.

ball bearing, Schnuerle-ported engine is highly

recommended. Our prototype Bonanza weighed

13 pounds with all of the options, including flaps,

scale cockpit interior and operational lighting,

and was flown with a SuperTigre

a Top Flite Power Point 12x8 prop at 9,600 RPM.

This engine provided excellent performance

and more than enough power, even in gusty

winds.

power this model, the extra horsepower is

not

hold a range of engines from

through 1.20 4

Recommended engine size:

.91

cu.

in.

2-stroke

-or-

.90to,120 cu.

well

.75

2-stroke engines will turn a larger

.60

2-stroke engines

.75

or .90 2-stroke engines and will fly

you use a

Although larger engines can be used to

needed.

The included adjustable engine mount will

stroke.

straight

tail

tail mixing

handle as the

in.

4-stroke

with any of the

stroke engines

.60

2-stroke,

G-75.

It turned

.60

2-stroke

EXHAUST SYSTEM

A Top Flite header and muffler are available that will fit inside your cowl. They are designed for 2

stroke engines mounted horizontally, as

used on the model and shown in the instructions.

For part numbers see the accessory list on page 6.

RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR

You may build the Bonanza either with fixed or retractable landing gear. Of course, fixed gear will be much easier to install than retracts; but we provide detailed instructions on retract installation chose the Robart #BZA80 retracts because they are specially designed for this model. This

landing gear is a special adaptation of the Robart #640 systems may work as well but it is up to you to

make modificationsto fit them into the model.

you should have no trouble. We

mains and the #631 nose gear. Other

FLAPS

This model was designed to incorporate scale

flaps; however,flaps are optional are not

necessary

Without flaps, the takeoff roll is longer and the

landing speed is faster.

The flaps are not difficult to build, but they do require good craftsmanship to nicely scale appearance while causing no bad effects. Only slight trim correction is needed when they are used with the recommended throws. They are a highly recommended who wish to install them. More information on the use of the flaps may be found in the “Flying” section.

For part numbers see the accessory list on page

for an excellent flying experience.

fit

the model’s flight characteristics and

well. Flaps add

fun

option

for those

-4-

Operational lighting

ROTATING BEACON

ING

NAVIGATION

(GREEN

An operational lighting system (TOPQ7912) has been developed specially for the Top Flite Bonanza and was installed in our prototypes. Guidelines are provided in this manual for building the wiring into the wing and building brackets to hold the wing tip and tail navigation lights. You can install the lights in the fuse at any time. The instructions included with the lighting kit provide information on how to hook everything up. The lighting kit includes one rotating beacon for the top

the fuselage, one landing light for the front of the cowl, and three navigation or wing tips and tail cone (green in the right wing tip, red in the left wing tip, and white in the tail cone). you would like toadd the strobe lights in the wing tips, order RAM #RAM01 (RAMQ2301) and purchase additional clear lenses directly from RAM.

LIGHTS

RIGHT, RED-LEFT)

STROBE LIGHT

position

lights for the

Scale cockpit interior

Your model won't be complete without the Top Flite Beechcraft Bonanza Scale Cabin Interior (TOPQ8402). It includes the floor, side panels, full instrument panel and six seats! You can install the Cabin Interior at any time because the cabin top is removable but it's easiest the model while it's under construction. The servos

pushrods are located

and be installed without any modification.

build the cockpit into

the Cabin Interior can

NOTES

FOR

COMPETITION

MINDED MODELERS

We designed our model from Beechcraft's own

view drawings and from measurements

1969 3 taken from a V35B at a local airport. The model scale is 1 5 .

you plan to enter your Bonanza in scale competition (it's lots of fun, and the runways are almost always paved!), this kit qualifies for

Scale

and the

Sport Scale.

same flight requirements where you must perform ten maneuvers of which five are mandatory. have never competed in a scale contest, you could start out in Fun Scale. In Fun Scale, the only documentation you need for static judging is any proof that a full size aircraft of this type, in the

painffmarkings scheme on your model, did exist. single photo, kit box cover, even a painting is sufficient proof! AMA for a rule book which will tell you everything you need

magazine

The trim scheme of the Bonanza on your kit box

was

inspired

taken from one particular plane.

concerned with an exact scale trim scheme you

can duplicate the one on the kit box, make a variation of the one on the box, or design your own trim scheme.

competition use the photos in your documentation

package as a guide for your trim scheme.

Sportsman

Fun Scale and Sport Scale have the

know. Look in the back of the AMA

Model Aviation

by several trim schemes and is not

you are goingtocompete in scale

and

Expert

you're interested, contact the

for a schedule of events.

you are not too

Fun

classes in

you

DOCUMENTATION

three view drawings and photo packs of full size Beechcraft Bonanzas are available from:

Scale Model Research,

31 14 Yukon Ave, Costa Mesa, CA 92626

(714) 979

8058

OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED

Accessories

These are additional items you will need to complete your Bonanza that are your kit. Order numbers are in parentheses

(GPMQ4130). Our exclusive brand is listed

where possible:

is the Great Planes brand, and HCA is the Hobbico brand.

4-to 6-channel radio with 6to 9 servos (2) 24"extension for ailerons (2) 12"extension for elevator and rudder servo (1)"Y 3-1/2" Main Wheels (ROBQI51 2-3" Nose Wheel (ROBQI513)

(6)

3/16 Wheel Collars (GPMQ4309)

14 oz. Fuel Tank (GPMQ4106) 2-3/4" White Spinner (GPMQ4525) 36"Medium Silicone Fuel Tubing (GPMQ4131)

1 / 2 R/C Foam Rubber Padding (HCAQ1050)

1/5 Scale Pilot Figures (WBRQ2485)

Fuel Filler Valve (GPMQ4160)

Exhaust Deflector (HCAP2175)

3-4 rolls Top Flite Super MonoKote covering,

see

Paint, see

Propellers,

TOP

is the Top Flite brand,

Harness for ailerons

Finishing

on page 64

Finishing

see

the engine instructions

on page 64

Items for V-tail with elevator only:

(1)"Y

Harness for elevator servos

tail with elevator only)

For Flaps, the following additional items will be

required:

(1)

"YHarness

(2) 9"Servo Extensions (1) Dual Servo Extension

Robart #309 Super Hinge Points (ROBQ2509)

Two standard servos

not included

(if

building

with

GPM

-5-

For an In Cowl Muffler setup, the following items will be required:

O.S

.61SF&FX Top Flite Header (TOPQ7920) SuperTigre .61-.90KTop Flite Header (TOPQ7925) SuperTigre .75-.9OG Top Flite Header (TOPQ7926)

.61-.75

Bonanza In CowlMuffler (TOPQ7917)

BUILDING

SUPPLIES

Here's a checklist of supplies you should have on hand while you're building.

Planes Pro

and

We recommend Great

Epoxy.

Glue/Filler

4 oz. Thin CA (GPMR6003) 4 oz. Medium CA+ (GPMR6009) 2 oz. Thick CA-(GPMR6015) CA Accelerator (GPMR6035) CA Debonder (GMPR6039) CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)

minute epoxy (GPMR6047)

minute epoxy (GPMR6045)

Pro Wood Glue (GPMR6161)

Products

RC/56

canopy glue (JOZR5007) Microballoons (TOPR1090) Milled Fiberglass (GPMR6165) Lightweight Hobby Filler (Balsa Color, HCAR3401)

Auto body filler (Bondo@or similar) 3M #75 Spray Adhesive (MMMR1900)

Denatured or lsopropyl Alcohol

Tools

#11 Blades (HCAR0311, 100 qty.)

Single Edge Razor Blades (HCARO312, 100 qty.) Razor Plane (MASRl510) X-Acto@Building Square (XACR7726) X-Act0 Building Triangle (XACR7725)

Pins (HCAR5100-small, HCAR5150

medium, HCAR5200-large)

Drill Bits:

1/16

3/32

17/64

9/32 1/8 5/16 5/32

9/64" or #29

" " "

Q 3/16" u11/64"or#10

1 / 4 13/64

or #7

Tools

(Cont.)

1/4-20 Tap and drill set (GPMR8105)

8-32 Tap and drill set (GPMR8103)

Kyosho"

LexarP

Curved Scissors (KYORl 01

Long handle 9/64 ball driver (GPMR8004)

Long handle 3/32

ball driver (GPMR8002) Silver Solder (GPMR8070w/flux) Masking Tape Wax Paper Easy-Touch'"Bar Sanders* Heat Gun (TOPR2000) Trim Seal

Tool

(TOPR2200) Hot Sock (TOPR2175) Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)

EASY-TOUCH

HAND SANDER

*A flat, durable, easytohandle sanding necessity for building a well finished model. Great Planes makes a complete range of

Sanders Easy-Touch adhesive-backed sandpaper.

building the Bonanza we used two 5-1/2" Bar Sanders and two

Here's the complete list and adhesive backed sandpaper:

5 11 22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172)

12' roll of Adhesive

80 150 220

Assortment pack

We also use 3M 320 sandpaper

(patent pending) and replaceable

11"

grit and 150-grit adhesive-backed sandpaper.

1/ 2 Bar Sander (GPMR6169)

Bar

Sander (GPMR6170)

grit (GPMR6180)

grit (GPMR6183)

grit (GPMR6185)

for

Bar Sanders equipped with

Easy-Touch Bar Sanders

backed sandpaper

5-1/ 2 strips (GPMR6189)

finish sanding.

grit or 400-grit wet-or-dry

tool

Easy-Touch Bar

While

is a

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

There are

number and a length.

threads per inch, and a length.

For example 4

instructions, it means that you should first position the part on the assembly without using any glue, then slightly modify or necessary for the best fit.

should rely upon your experience to decide what type of glue to use. When a specific type of adhesive works best for that step we will tell you what type of glue to use.

either30-

30 recommended that you use only 30 because you will need the working time and/or the additional strength.

model or or airplane is right side up and will be referred the top even that step, main spar even if the wing is upside down when you are working on it. Similarly,

fuselage even you are working on it.

angles and down thrust angles shown on the fuselage side view are in reference to the stepped main fuselage stringer (the stepped stringer), which is set at thrust shown on the bottom view is in reference to the centerline of the fuselage. Remember, this is

two

types of screws used i\n this kit:

Sheet metal screws are designated by a

For example #4 x 5/8":

Machine screws are designated by a number,

40 x 3/4":

When you see the term

Whenever the term

Whenever

just

glue

epoxy

is specified you may use

test fit

custom fit

in the

the part as

is used this means you

minute epoxyor6-minute epoxy. When

minute epoxy is specified it is highly

Occasionally we refer to the

down.

bottom

of the model is as it would be when the

i.e.

To avoid confusion, the

the model is upside down during

the top main spar is always the top

minute epoxy

toporbottom

move the former

of the

top

means move the former toward the top of the

the fuselageisupside down when

Incidence and Thrust Angles: The incidence

3/8"x36

1/4"

0".

The right

-6-

the

bottom view

right thrust is viewed as an

offset to the left from the bottom.

When you get to each step, read that step

completely through to the

end

before you begin. Frequently there is important information or a note at the end of the step that you need to know before you start.

Photos

and

step they refer to. Frequently

sketches

are placed

you

can study photos

ahead

of the

in following steps to get another view of the same parts.

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN

BOOK

THIS

.,......_....

...

Balsa Basswood

Inch Scale

Metric Scale

AND ON THE PLANS:

Deg=Degrees Ply

Plywood

Fuselage

Fuse LE

Leading Edge (front)

Landing Gear

Left

Right

Rt Stab

Stabilizer

Trailing Edge (rear)

Inches

Elevator

Elev

TYPES

WOOD:

40 50

Plywood

INCHES

Scale Accuracy:

view drawings from Beechcraft dated 1969. In addition,

measurements of all aircraft components were taken from a V35B Bonanza at a local airport.

Wing Design:

Beam"type of wing spar rather than the more traditional "DTube called an approximately wing was designed with an absolute minimum number of seams that must be sanded on the finished wing. The result is a very smooth wing.

Flaps:

approaches and slower landing speeds. They do exactly the same on this model. The improvement in performance is well worth the effort.

Landing Gear:

that the strut extends instead of the end. This allows landing stresses distributed across three ply reinforced ribs, rather than being concentrated at the end of the rail.

install retractable landing gear,Ihighly recommend the Robart units especially designed for the Bonanza. They are

very robust and include shock absorbing struts. One of our

prototype models was built with Robart a #607 nose unit. Though adequate, they required a lot of maintenance and occasional repair. Gear doors would look great on this model but you will have modifications

25.4

(CONVERSION FACTOR)

1/64

"=.4 mm 3/4"=19.0 mm

1/32

"=.8 mm

1/16

1.6rnm

3/32

"=2.4

118"

5/32 3/16 114"=6.4 3/8

1/2"

5/8

type construction. Actually, the design could be

3.2

rnrn

"=4.0

rnrn

4.8

mrn

mrn 21"=533.4 mm

9.5rnm

12.7rnrn 30"=762.0 mm

15.9

rnrn 36"

NOTES

FROM

The Bonanza was designed using three

The TF Bonanza was designed with an

"I-

Tube". This simplifies construction and is

50%

Flaps on the full scale aircraft allow steeper

If you are installing fixed gear you will note

you want to install then. The mounting rails

100

110

25.4 mm

50.8 mm

"=76.2 mm 6=152.4 mm 12

"=304.8 mm

18=457.2 mm

609.6 mm

= 914.4 mm

THE

DESIGNER

stronger than D-Tube designs. The

out

from the center of the groved rail

#606HD

120

130

140

-7-

you plan

mains and

do some

150

160

are designedtominimize damage in the event of hard landings or contact with obstacles.

Fuselage Design:

conventional. The cabin top is a LARGE ABS piece and drove many of the other design elements -such as how get it into the box! But itdoes simplify construction and

looks great. concerned with access can be permanently glued in place, allowing the seams be filled in. We found that ifyou choose your trim design carefully, the seams are pretty well hidden.

The cabin area is reinforced with more than strong enough,

reinforce the area with some basswood rails along the bottom of formers F2, F4 and F6 across the width fuselage. We have included ample extra 1/4" x 3/8"

basswood material for this purpose.

"1-

V-Tailvsstraight tail:

not a Bonanza if it isn't a V

rumors about V

you shouldn't be. The V

easy

V-Tail!

structure and pushrods and showing

found intimidating.

will simplify radio installation and allow full utilization of the

ruddervators but it is in no way required. Simply connect the ruddervator servos together with a Y elevators. Or use one of the many mixers available

obtain V-Tail mixing. Incidentally, this model duplicates

virtually all of the flight characteristics of the full size aircraft.

The rudders are somewhat ineffective and it has the

characteristic Bonanza tail wiggle. The differential throw when rudder is applied having more up throw than down. This compensates for a nose down tendency otherwise. Try use a computer radio. We used a Futaba radio and did get the required compensation as you will note in the recommended control throws section.

Will It Really FlyOna

scale like as well. Our test flying was done with a new Super Tigre .75 with a TF in winter and it was cold so we weren't able

engine very well. at 9,600 RPM and we never felt a need for more power. flew in a very scale like manner.

Good luck and good flying.

flying your Bonanza as much as

fly.

Just

kidding.Itwas designing the model tobe either

Tail or straight tail, using the same basic mounting

You Need a Computer Radio?

The fuselage design is fairly

is designedtobe removable but ifyou are not

the fuel tank and cabin interior it

1/8

would recommend that you

personally feel that a Bonanza is

Tails being hard tobuild or difficulttofly,

the other hand, was intimidated by the

Tail.Ifyou are intimidated by

Tail is easier to build and

.60

Size Engine?

was turningaTF 12-8 Power Point prop

lite ply. While it is

all on the plans that

NO!!

A computer radio

cable and use them as

full

duplicate this ifyou

cowl muffler.Itwas during

hope you enjoy building and

did designing it.

just

size aircraft has

the ruddervator

YES!! And very

dial in the

the

GET

READY

BUILD

BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES

1. Unroll the plan sheets, then roll them inside

out

they lie flat.

Remove all the parts from the box. Use a

ballpoint pen (not a felt

name or size on each piece

later. Use the identify and mark the die remove them from their die parts already have numbers stamped on them, but in some cases the number is located alongside the parts. You may remove all the die their die sheets now or wait until you need them. If a part is difficult to remove, don't force it out but cut around it with a parts from their die sheets, lightly sand the edges to remove slivers or die

some of the larger scraps of wood.

Note: If you are going to install retracts, don't

punch out the round

3/32

apply thin CA around the lightening hole to glue it

in place.

die-cut patterns

DO NOT PUNCH OUT THE

ROUND LIGHTENING HOLE

balsa wing ribs W4, W5 and W6. Instead,

tip pen) to lightly write the

you can identify it

on pages

cut parts before you

cut sheets. Many of the

cut parts from

#I1

blade. After you remove the

cutting irregularities. Save

W4, W5,

lightening hole

in the die-cut

Make the skins

1. See the Hot Tip that follows and use six

1/16

1/16"x the straight

finlrudder skin from three more 1/16

balsa sheets.

tail, make a third

for

the tail surfaces

30"balsa sheets to make two

stab skin

planks.

If you're building

plank

for the

Hey, if you're building the V-tail it

looks as if you are going to have three sheets

1/16

balsa leftover!

HOW TO MAKE THE SKINS

A. Use a straightedge and a sharp true the joining edges of the sheets. When you trim them, do not cut all the way through the first time but make wood instead of splitting it.

several passes so

#I1

you

blade to

slice

the

C. Place wax paper on your workbench. Flip the sheets over and apply a bead of aliphatic resin

(wood workers glue

between the seams. Immediately proceed next steD.

such as Great Planes Pro"")

to the

Separate the parts into groups such as stab,

fin, wing

Store smaller parts in zipper-top food storage bags.

and fuse.

Tightly tape the sheets together with masking tape placed about every sheets will not lay flat because they are tightly taped together.

along the seams. The

-10-

D. Use a credit card or thin peice of plywood to squeegee the excess glue from the seam. Wipe the glue off your squeegee with a paper towel or a

stick of wood. Immediately proceed to the next step.

INCORRECT: SHEETS NOT FLAT AND EVEN

....

LE Grain

Stab

you're buildingthe V-tail, skip to"Build the

stabilizer and ruddervators

" on page

17.

CORRECT SHEETS ARE

FLAT AND EVEN

....

E. Press the joining edges of the sheets down

with your fingers

they are flat and even. Place

weights on top of the sheets to hold them flat.

F. Squeegee the glue, press the seams flat, and place weights along the other glue joint. Let the glue dry.

Use the same procedure to make the wing

skins when you build the wing.

After the glue is dry, peel off the masking tape and decide which side of the planks will be the outside. Use a bar sander or a large, flat sanding block and 150

grit sandpaper to sand the planks

they are flat, even and smooth. The idea is to do

before

the sanding

you glue the skins to the

structure.

Cut the

sheets in half, making four (or

six for the straight tail)

planks.

Elevator (Ruddervater)

Cut the

stab and elevator skin templates

from the plan. Use a straightedge and a ballpoint

pen to mark their outline onto the

(do not use a felt

tip pen). The templates are

planks

slightly oversize to allow for slight variances in

construction. Note the

stab and elevator skins

grain direction.

Cut the

from the planks.Ifyou're

building the straight tail do the same for the fin and

Note:

rudder skin.

The template shown on the plans for the elevator (ruddervator) is larger than needed. You will need to trim this to the correct size when you fit the skin into place.

Beech Fact:

(that's A through V including the very first Bonanza are

Debonairs

Fact).

Bonanzas, as well as the very last Bonanzas produced: the 36 and A36. But designations didn't necessarily proceed from A, to C, etc. There were variations of some of the models such as the V35, V35TC. V35A, V35A-TC and Or, the F33, F33A and F33C. But, th e

designation rule

impress your friends!

Let's get it straight. All Bonanza 35's

the35are V-tails. Models 33 through 33C

(more on the

Models 33E throughGare straight tail

still applies. Now you can really

Debonair

in a later

it's

not that simple. The

Beech

on.

number

BUILD THE STABILIZER AND ELEVATORS

Build the right and left stab halves simultaneously. The left half of the stab plan shows the straight tail stab with dashed lines indicating the V

The right half of the stab plan shows the V

with dotted lines indicating the straight tail stab.

STI. Position the plansothe stab is over your flat building board (or cut the stab from the wing plan) and tape it down and cover it with wax paper.

s1s

ST2.

Glue

LE braces

S1S

ribs

ST3.

S2S

1/8"

Test fit the die-cut

through

balsa

both die-cut

together and both die-cut

together.

S7S

stabTEspars

118"

balsa

3/32

in the notches of both die-cut

assemblies over the plan and add the LE brace. See the photo at step ST4.

straight tail

balsa

Place both

tail stab.

tail stab

3/32

stab ribs

balsa

ST4. spar at rib location on the plan with a T

and pin the rest of the ribs on both sides of the stab to your building board over the plan.

board over the plan.

spars

contacting your building board. Glue the stab TE spar and elevator LE spar to the ribs with medium CA. Don't use large amounts of CA or build up fillets of glue. Later we will instruct you to reinforce glue joints that don't

Use a small square to align the stab

S2S

over the plan. Pin rib

the TE spar.

ST5.

Use the same method to align theTEspar

ST6.

Pin the fronts of the ribs to your building

ST7

Add

botn

(S8)

ST8.

Make sure all the jig tabsofall the ribs are

de-cut

the assembly.

pin about in front

balsa

look

strong.

S2S

elevator

over its

ST10.

Glue the die-cut

TE doubler

tail

the one with straight edges).

STI1.Add the center rib

position.

ST12.

sweep of the leading edge. Cut two shaped

15"balsa 13-314" plan. Glue them to the ribs and the LE joiner

topiseven

extend below the ribs but will be sanded flush later.

Sand the fronts of the ribs to match the aft

stab/fin leading edges

and bevel the joining ends to match the

with the

1/16

the front

top

of the ribs. The bottom will

-12-

plywood

of theTEbrace (it's

S1Sand glue it into

to a length of

straight

5/16"x

ST13.

Cut a

1/16

the LE brace. Test fit the die

straight tail LEdoubler

notch as necessary even with the top of rib the LE brace and glue rib

ST14.

embossed line and set those little pieces aside.

They will b e used later to glue the aft end

into position. Fit the to the elevator LE

the

spars, pin them the elevator LE spars.

Cut the end

notch in center rib

the plan, and then glue them to

cut

in the notch. Deepen the

the top of the doubler is

SIS.

Glue the doubler

the doubler.

off

both

SlAS

S1S

behind

1/16"plywood

ribs at the

ST15. Sand the top of the leading edges, stab

and elevator spars, and the TE brace

match the contour of the ribs.

shape of the airfoil by sanding too much.

THIS STEPISVERY

ST16. Arrange the T-pins so with one pin near the front and one pin near the

rear and make sure all the pins go into the jig tabs

at the same angle.

the stab off your building board by lifting it up and to one side after the top sheeting is glued in place

pins are concealed).

(the T

ST17. Use your favorite method to glue the stab

skin to the stab. We recommend using aliphatic

resin to glue the skin to the ribs and TE spar, and CA for only the leading edge. Apply glue to the stab structure. Working quickly, position the stab skin

and hold the leading edge down until the CA

hardens. When the CA is hardened, wet the front of the skin with a

press it to the rest of the frame, holding it down

with weights until the glue dries.

Note:

you choose to use CA for the entire job, be aware that residual accelerator you may have used earlier can make the CA you use for this step cure quickly. You'll have to work rapidly.

every other rib

This will allow you to

50/50

mix of alcohol and water and

not change the

they

IMPORTANT!

is held down

finagle

ST19. After the glue has thoroughly dried, remove all the T the stab (with the elevators) from your building board. Trim the jig tabs from the ribs and take out

the rest

ST20. Use a razor plane or a#I1

the

bottom

front of the ribs and matches the airfoil shape.

ST21. Sand the bottoms of the ribs, leading

edges, stab spars, elevator spars and the TE brace

they smoothly blend.

pins you can reach.

the T-pins.

of the LEsoit is the same size as the

Carefully

blade to trim

lift

ST22. Glue the little tips you cut

the

S1ASribs to the sheeting andS1AS.

off

the end of

ST23. Use a bar sander and 150-grit sandpaper to bevel the trailing edge of the top elevator skin it will accommodate the bottom skin. While you sand, apply pressure only to the sheeting and use the ribs to set your sander at the correct angle. not bevel the trailing edge to a

leave about 1/32 TE with the edge of your workbench or a platform while you sand.

squared off.

sharp edge

Hint:

Support the

but

ST I8. Glue the elevator skin to the elevator. You can use CA for this step since the skin is small and easy to position. Make sure the trailing edge contacts the ribs S7S and S2S.

stoppers

on the top of the jig tabs on

BEVEL THE TE TO MATCH THE RIBS

TOP

SHEETING'ON

TOP SHEETING

ELEVATOR

THE BOTTOM SKIN WILL FIT LIKE THIS

-13-

cut

1/8"

balsa

ST24. Glue four die

torque rod blocks

and S2AS.

ST25. Cut twelve 1-7/8" long

the

1/4

spaced to the stab TE spar and the elevator LE spar where shown on the plan. Glue the die

1/8" balsa S7S as shown on the plan. Position the gusset is even with the bottom of the hinge block do not break it when you cut the hinge slot. Align the grain as shown on the plan.

3/8" x 3 6 balsa stick. Glue them evenly

between both sets of ribsSlAS

stab gusset

to the hinge block and rib

hinge blocks

elevator

from

cut

you

ST26. Trim the elevator torque rod blocks and

any protruding hinge blocks

they are even with

the bottoms of the ribs.

ST27. Reinforce any glue joints that do not

look strong.

ST33. Sand the stab TE's and the elevator LE's

they are even with the ends of the stab and

elevators. Sand the stab TE and elevator

they blend with the tips and skins.

LE's

ST39. Skip ahead to

page

to make the tip blocks (the straight tail and

tail tips are shaped the same way). When you're

done, return to step ST40.

Make the stab tips

ST28. Glue the elevator skins to the bottom of

the elevators

ST29. Glue the stab skins

stab.

the trailing edges align.

the bottom ofthe

you have not used any accelerator on the stab you may glue the skins on with thick or medium CA. Otherwise, use aliphatic resin. Work over a flat work surface and be careful not to add any twist into the stab as you press the skins to the stab frame.

straight tail stab cradles

Optional:

Use the die-cut

S2T

and

S7T

1/8"

balsa

to hold the stab flat on your workbench while you glue the bottom skins on. Use the stab cradles the same as

the wing cradles shown in steps

1-5

on page 30.

ST30. After the glue dries, use a bar sander with

150

grit sandpaper to sand the sheeting even with

the ends of the stab and elevators.

ST31.

Cut the ribs and separate the elevator from the stab. Sand the excess sheeting and rib stubs from the TE of the stab and the LE of the elevator. Sand the elevator sheeting even with rib SIAS.

ST34. Use

two

T-pins, placed in the

center

the leading edge of one of the elevators near the ends, to align a straightedge and draw a centerline with a ballpoint pen.

ST35. Mark the other elevator and the TE of the

stab the same way.

ST36. Cut the hinge slots on the centerlines of the elevators and the stab where shown on the plan.

'3/4'

ST37. Cut six

strip

as shown in the sketch. Snip the corners off

the hinges

hinges

from the 2

they go into the slots easier.

"x9

hinge

Temporarily join both elevators to the stab with the

hinges.

necessary, adjust the hinge slots sothe

elevators and stab align.

ST40. Using the plan, accurately mark the

location of the

1/8"

elevator joiner

(from now on referred to as just the

joiner)

on the elevators.

ST41.

Drill

center of both

a 9/64"hole and cut a groove in the

LE's

for the joiner. Test fit the

elevator joiner in the elevators.

Hint:

Use a

1/8"

brass tube sharpened at one end

to cut the grooves.

wire

and horn

elevator

ST32. Glue a die-cut 1/8" balsa

the TE

balsa

both stab halves. Glue a die-cut

elevatorLE(also

elevators.

stab

S10)

to theLEof both

(S10)

1/8"

ST38. Locate the 3/4" shaped balsa

blocks.

The tip blocks match the

use the plan to reshape them to fit your straight

V-tail

stab tip

stab tips,

tail stab.

-14-

Cut a small groove in the TE of the stab

the

horn

on the elevator joiner will not bind

against the stab when the elevator deflects downward. Test fit the elevators to the stab, with the elevator joiner in place, and make adjustments

necessary.

Beech Fact:

remarkable airplane and held many world records. In

1949

light

planes flying 4,957

from

Honolulu

Odon.In1958itheld

miles

Pendleton, Oregon

The

Bonanza was (and

held

the

world record non-stop distance

miles

New Jersey piloted by Capt.

in45hours,

the

43 minutes from Manila

flown

by Capt.

same

36 hours,

record

Pat

Boling.

still

flying

is)

for

all

minutes

Bill

7090

BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER

ST1. Place the fin plan over your building board

and cover it with wax paper.

BEVEL THE NOTCHES IN THE

RIBS

FIN

THE ANGLE ON THE PLANS

ST2. Test fit the die-cut 3/32"balsa

through

finTEspar

the assembly over the plan. the notches of the fin spar, remove the ribs and bevel the notches in the spars and the ribs as shown in the sketch.

AND SPARS TO MATCH

ORIGINAL NOTCHES

fin ribs

in the notches of the die-cut 1/8" balsa

(R7)

and

rudderLEspar

the ribs fit tightly into

spar and the rudder LE

(R8).

Place

ST3. Use a small square to position the fin TE

sparover the plan near rib R2. Align rib R2 over

the

plan and pin it to your building board. Use one

pin near the front of the jig tab and one T

!ar the rear of the jig tab.

ST4. Use the same method to align the fin TE spar over the plan at each rib. Pin the rib to your building board. Glue the ribs to the spars with medium CA. Use small drops of CA and do not buildup fillets. Later, we will remind you to reinforce the glue joints.

Refertothis photo for the next three steps

ST5. Cut rib R1 apart between the spar notches.

Add fin rib

them

and rudder rib

the plan and glue them in position.

R1A

to the spars. Pin

ST6. Sand the fronts of the ribs to match the aft

sweep of the leading edge. Cut a shaped 5/16

x15"balsa

12-1/2". Glue it to the frontofthe ribssothe

the LE is

bottom of the

stab/fin leading edge

even

with the

will extend below the bottom of

top

of the ribs. The

to a length

top

th e ribs but will be sanded flush later.

-15-

ST7.

leading edge and the sub spars

Sand the upward facing edges of the

contour of the ribs. airfoil by sanding

not change the shape of the

too

much.

they match the

ST8. Arrange the T-pinssothey all go into the

jig tabs at the same angle. This will allow you to

finagle the fin and rudder off your building board by

lifting it up and to one side after the top sheeting is

glued in place (the T

ST9.

Glue

pins are concealed).

the fin and rudder skin to the

structure. The bottom of the fin skin should extend

below rib R1 by approximately 1/4"-1/2" trim it later. Make sure the trailing edge

you can

the

rudder meets the stoppers on the top of the jig tabs

Note:

on ribs R6 and

The rudder skin was cut

wider than needed, to allow enough material to trim

size now.

ST10. After the glue has thoroughly dried,

remove all the T

pins you can reach. Carefully lift the fin (with the rudder) from your building board. Trim the jig tabs from the ribs and take out the rest

of the T

pins.

ST11. Use a razor plane or a #11 blade to trim

the right side of the

it is the same size as the

front of the ribs and matches the airfoil shape.

ST12. Sand the bottoms ofthe ribs, leading edges, fin spar, rudder spar and trailing edges so that they blend.

ST13. Bevel the trailing edge of the left rudder skin the same way you did the stab.

ST14. Glue the four die-cut1/8"balsa rudder

torque rod blocks betweenR1Aand

the rudder.

ST15.Cut six 1-718" long hinge blocks from the 1/4" x 3 / 8 hinge blocks, evenly spaced,

36" balsa stick. Test fit, then glue the

the fin TE spar and

the rudder LE spar where shown on the plan.

ST16. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa fin gusset to

the hinge block and rib R6. The gusset should be

raised and rib R6

it is even with the left side of the fin TE

(so

it does not interfere with the

hinge slot).

ST17. Trim the elevator torque rod blocks and

any hinge blocks

ST18. Cut a5"

basswood stick. Bevel one endsoit matches

the plan. Bevel the sides

they are even with the ribs.

BEVEL

FIN

POST

FRONT

long fin

SIDE

post

froma114

to accommodate the

"x318

sheeting. Set the fin post aside for now.

ST19. Reinforce glue joints that don't

look strong.

ST20. Glue the other rudder and fin skin to the

right side of the rudder and fin.

cut 1/8" balsa finlstab cradles

die

hold the fin and rudder flat on your workbench

Optional: Use the

RlC

while you glue the right skins on.

ST21. Sand the tip of the fin and rudder sheeting

flush with rib R6.

ST22. Cut the ribs and separate the rudder from the fin. Sand the excess sheeting and rib from the TE ofthe fin and the LE of the rudder. Sand the bottom of the rudder even with rib

ST23. Glue a die-cut 118" balsa fin trailing edge

(R9)

to the fin TE spar and a die-cut 1/8" balsa

rudder leading edge

Sand the fin TE and rudder LE

(R9)tothe rudder LE spar.

they blend with

the tips and skins.

ST24. Use the

straightedge and pin

draw a centerline on the LE of the rudder and the TE of the fin.

ST25. Cut the hinge slots on the centerline of

the fin and rudder where shown on the plan.

ST26. Cut three more hinges from the hinge strip and temporarily join the rudder to the fin. If necessary, adjust the hinge slots

rudder align.

ST27. Securely tape the rudder to the fin with masking tape on both sides. Sand the ends of the

fin and rudder

ST28. Draw a centerline on the top and bottom

of t he 518" x 718"

they are even.

6-1/4" balsa fin tip block. Cut

the block into two pieces as shown on the plan.

Sand the edges you just cut

they are smooth

and match the angle on the plan.

-16-

and

R6C

stubs

technique to

the fin and

ST29. Use thick or medium CA to glue the

rudder tip block

only to the rudder. Use the

centerline on the rudder tip block as a guide to make sure it is centered on the rudder and fin.

ST30. Glue the fin tip to the fin, making sure there is a 1/16" gap between the fin tip and the rudder tip.

ST31. Use a razor plane or a hobby carving knife followed by sanding to carefully shape the fin and rudder tip blocks. Inspect your progress frequently and use the centerlines as a guide.

Hint: Stick a T

pin through the top of the rudder tip into the fin. This will hold the rudder tip while you shape it.

ST32. Shape the LE of the fin as you did with

the stab.

ST33. Separate the rudder from the fin.

ST34. Shape the leading edge of the rudder to a

"V"

as you did with the elevators. Use the

centerline on the leading edge as a guide. Make

"V"

sure the angle of the

will allow the throws

indicated in the back of this manual.

ST35. Rejoin the rudder to the fin with the

hinges. Shift the rudder upward

there is approximately a 1/32" gap between the rudder tip and the fin.

Pin the rear of the jig tab on S2V to the plan. Use

the same procedure to pin the rear of the jig tabs

on the rest of the ribs to the plan.

ST36. Sand the topofthe rudder tipsoit matches the fin tip (since you raised the rudder slightly).

What a ni9pie

and fin in a safe place, clean

vacuum the floor, read the following then skip to page21and build the wing.

Beech

Fact:

tail configuration. The original straight tail

in the V Beech, introduced in 1959, was named the It was intended to be a less expensive, model in the Beechcraft lineup to compete with Piper's Comanche and Cessna's soon However, after many upgrades and changes, the Debonair evolved into what was basically a straight tail Bonanza. Debonair name and called both the

Bonanza. Neat-O!

workmanship! Put the stab

off

your workbench,

Beech Fact,

At first, the

in 1968 Beech decided to drop the

Bonanza

model existed only

bare essentials

-to-be-

released 21

and the

Debonair.

35,

the

BUILD

THE

STABILIZER AND

RUDDERVATORS

The right half of the stab plan shows the V-tail stab

with a dashed line indicating the straight tail stab.

The left half of the stab plan shows the straight tail

stab with dashed lines indicating the V

Build the

progress matches the photos.

right

side of the stab firstsoyour

V1. Position the plan so the stab is over your flat building board (or cut the stab from the wing plan) and tape it down and cover it with wax paper.

V2. Test fit.the die-cut 3/32"balsa

through

S7V

S2V

balsa

spar

stab

(S8).

in the notches of the die-cut

spar

(S9)

and the

Place the assembly over the plan.

V3. Use a small square to help align the

ruddervator LE spar S8 over the plan at rib S2V.

17-

tail stab.

stab ribs

ruddervator LE

1/8"

V4. One atatime, align the fronts of the ribs

over the plan and pin the jig tabs down

your

building board.

V5. Still without using glue, join

rib

SIV

the

assembly and pin it to your building board.

....

V6. Glue two die-cut 1/8'' balsaV-

braces

together. Place them in the notches of ribs

tail

S1Vand S2V as shown on the plan.

V7. Make sure all the jig tabs of all the ribs are contacting your building board, then glue the stab

spar, ruddervator LE spar and the V-tail

bracetothe ribs with medium CA. Don't use large

amounts of CA or build up fillets of glue. Later we will instruct you to reinforce glue joints that don't

look

strong.

V8. Bevel the fronts of the ribs to match the aft sweep of the leading edge. Cut a shaped balsa

stab/fin leading edge toa length of

Glue it to the fronts of the ribs the

top

of the ribs. The bottom of theLEwill extend

the

top

5/16

"x15"

even

with

below the ribs but will be sanded flush later.

V9. Check the fit of the

cut notches of the ribs SIV, S2V and S3V.

die

sub spar (S11)

in the

Make any adjustments needed.

VIO. Test fit, then glue the sub spar in

position. Use a 90" triangle to insure that the sub

spar is vertical.

V14. Use your favorite method toglue the stab skin to the stab. We recommend using aliphatic resin

glue the skin to the ribs and

TE spar, and CA for only the leading edge. Apply the glue. Working quickly, position the stab skin and hold the leading edge down until the CA cures. When the CA is cured, wet the front of the skin with

50/50

mix of alcohol and water and press it to the rest of the frame, holding it down with weights until the glue dries.

Note:

you choose to use CA for the entire job, be aware that residual accelerator you may have used earlier can make the CA you use for this step cure

quickly. You'll have

work rapidly.

V19. Glue the little tip you cut

rib SlAV to the sheeting and SIAV.

For

clarity

we've drawn a /ine indlcating

BEVEL THE TETOMATCH THE RIBS

TOP

SHEETING

ELEVATOR

THE BOTTOM SKIN WILL FIT LIKE THIS

off

the end of

the bevel

V11. Cut the end off rib SlAV at the embossed line and set that little piece aside. Glue SlAV to the ruddervator

spar over its location

on the plan.

V12. Sand the top of the leading edge, sub

spar, elevator TE spar and the ruddervator

they match the contour of the ribs. Don't change

spar

the shape of the airfoil by sanding too much.

V13.

THIS

STEP

VERY

Arrange the T

pins

every other rib

IMPORTANT!

is held down with one pin near the front and one pin near the rear and make sure all the pins go into the jig tabs

at the same angle.

This will allow you to

finagle

the stab off your building board by lifting it up and to one side after the top sheeting is glued in place

pins are concealed).

(the T

V15. Glue the ruddervator skin to the ruddervator. You can use CA for this step since the skin is small and easy to posidon. Make sure the

trailing edge contacts the

stoppers

on the top of the

jig tabs on ribs S7V and S2V.

V16. After all the glue has dried, remove all

pins you can reach. Carefully lift the stab

the T (with the ruddervator) from your building board.

Trim the jig tabs from the ribs and take out

pins.

of the T

the rest

V17. Use a razor plane or a#I1 blade totrim

the

bottom

of the

it is the same size as the

front of the ribs and matches the airfoil shape.

V18. Sand the bottoms of the ribs, leading

edges, stab, ruddervator spars and trailing edges

they blend together.

-18-

TOP SHEETING

V20. Use a bar sander and 150-grit

sandpaper ruddervator skin

bevel the trailing edge ofthe top

it will accommodate the bottom skin. While you sand, apply pressure only to the sheeting and use the ribs to set your sander at the correct angle. Do not bevel the trailing edge to a

sharp edge

Hint:

but leave about 1/64

squared off.

Support theTEwith the edge of your

workbench or a platform while you sand.

V21. Glue four die-cut 1/8" balsa

torque rod blocks

between ribs SlAV and

ruddervator

SS2AV You can see the torque rod blocks in the following photo.

V22. between the LEbrace and the sub spar. Now you should have a slot in rib photo below. until instructed to dosolater.

Remove a small section of rib

S2V

NOT

cut the slot shown in rib S1

like the one in the

S2v

V23.

Cut six

2-118"

1/4"x3/8"x36"balsa stick. Glue the hinge

the blocks evenly spaced to the stab TE spar and the ruddervator Glue the die hinge block and rib

Position the gusset the hinge hinge slot. Align the grain as shown on the plan.

spar where shown on the plan.

cut 1/8" balsa stab gusset to the

you do not break it when you cut the

long hinge blocks from

S7V

as shown on the plan.

it is not on the centerline of

V25.

strong.

skins to the bottom of the stab and ruddervator. Work over a flat surface and be careful not to add any twist into the stab as you press the skins onto the stab frame. Make sure the ruddervator skins align. Optional: Use the die

1/8" balsa V hold the stab flat on your workbench while you glue the bottom skins on. Use the stab saddles the same as the wing saddles shown in stepsl pages

to sand the sheeting even with rib

ruddervator from the stab. Sand the excess sheeting and rib the

ruddervator sheeting flush with rib SIAV.

Reinforce glue joints that don't look

V26.

Glue the bottom stab and ruddervator

tail stab cradles S2V and S7V to

30.

V27.

Use a bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper

V28.

Cut the ribs and separate the

stubs

of the ruddervator. Sand the root of the

from the TEof the stab and

S7V.

of the

cut

5on

V31. LE of the ruddervator and sand it the skins and tips.

center of the leading edge of the ruddervator near the ends, to align a straightedge and draw a centerline with a ballpoint pen.

same way.

the ruddervator and the stab where shown on the plan. the root until instructed to do

Glue a ruddervatorLE(also

V32.

Use

two large T-

V33.

Mark the trailing edge of the stab the

V34.

Cut the hinge slots on the centerline

not cut the hinge slot in the stab nearest

pins,

so.

S10)

it blends with

placed in the

to the

V24. and any protruding hinge blocks with the bottoms

Trim the ruddervator torque rod block

the ribs.

they are even

V29.

cut

1/8"

balsa stab the stab of rib

stab and tip.

S3V

V30.

Cut

4-3/8"

off the

small

end

(S10).

the root end aligns with the inner edge

as shown on the plan.

Shape the stab

-19-

Glue the stab TEto

TEsoit blends with the

the die-

V35.

Cut three hinges as shown in the sketch

from the off the hinges

V36.

stab with

the ruddervator and stab align.

slots

they go into the slots easier.

Temporarily join the ruddervator to the

two

hinges.Ifnecessary, adjust the hinge

hinge

strip.

Snip the corners

MAKE THE STAB

1. Securely tape the ruddervator (or elevator you're building the straight tail) to the stab with masking tape on both sides. Sand the ends of the stab and ruddervator

they are even.

TIPS

Note:

When you shape the left stab tip, in addition to the plan, use the finished tip on the right stab as a guide to shape the left stab tip. This way you can make sure both of the stab tips are identical.

RUDDERVATOR

Shape the stab LE as shown on the plan.

Separate the ruddervator from the stab.

Shape the leading edge of the ruddervator

to a

"V"

on the leading edge as a guide. Make sure that the angle of the the back of the manual.

as shown on the plan. Use the centerline

"V"

will allow the throws indicated in

Draw a centerline all the way around a

shaped balsa

the plan. Mark where the ruddervator tip meets the stab tip on both sides of the block.

True the edges you just cut with a bar sander.

stab tip block.

Place the stab tip block over its location on

4. Cut the stab tip from the ruddervator tip.

3/4"

pointofthe stab tip should align with the TE of the

stab. Glue the

(as shown in the sketch).

followed by sanding to ruddervator and stab tip. Inspect your progress frequently. Use the centerlines as a guide and the plan as a reference the tip should look like.

Hint:

the stab. This will hold the ruddervator tip while you shape it.

Glue the

it is 1/8" aftofthe LE and aligns with the stab tip

Use a razor plane or a hobby carving knife,

Stick a T-pin through the ruddervator tip into

stab tip

ruddervator tip

the stab. The sharp

to the ruddervator

carefully

you know what the curve of

shape the

'.*'

-_I

Straight tail builders, make the other stab tip

ST40

the same way; then, return to step page

14.

V10. Starting at rib S1V,remove a 1 -3/8" strip

top

sheeting between the V-tail LE brace and the sub spar. Remove a 1-1/4" strip of sheeting between the V-tail LE brace and the sub spar. See the following photo.

Vll.

between the LE brace and the sub spar. Now you should have a slot in the stab like the one in the photo.

What a nice piece of workmanship! Put the right stab in a safe place. Clean off your workbench, vacuum the floor, and build the

Remove the small section of rib S1V

left

stab the same way.

bottom

BUILD

THE

WING

MAKE THE WING SKINS

AFT

WING

SKIN CUT-OFF

Have you purchased your retracts yet? Ifyou have (or as soon as you do), take the neoprene air lines out of the package and hang them from a hook somewhere in your shop letting them dangle under their own weight. This will get all the kinks out and make them easier to work with when it's time to install them.

14. Remove the shaded area of balsa shown in e previous two photos after the epoxv is fullv ured.

SLOT

FOR

SERVO CORDS

3/16

HOLES

WING TIP LIGHTS

FOR

LINES

1. Glue together to make an from the aft wing skin. Glue it back onto the skin as shown in the sketch.

2. Glue sheets together to make the

skin.

Note:

and five wing skins will be cut into four pieces to make the forward skins now in an assembly line fashion or make them as needed.

3. After the glue dries, remove the masking tape and mark the best side of each skin as the top. Sand the bottoms of both wing skins flat (or almost flat). Sand the tops of the skins they are flat andsmooth.

three

3/32"x3

two

3/32

You will need a total of four

forward wing skins

inner

skins). You can make all the wing

"x36"balsa sheets

aft

wing skin.

"x3

"x30

forward outer wing

(one of the forward

Trim a wedge

(not

36")

aft wing skins

they are

balsa

PREPARATIONS

Unroll the wing plan. lie flat. Cut the section from the wing plan. Position it on your building board and cover the plan with wax paper.

Perform steps 2through6if retractable landing gear.

right

Roll

it inside out soit will

wing panel with the center

you

are installing

flat

Prepare a set of

minute epoxytoglue the die-cut 1/16

plywood

W4R, W5R

ribs

photo. Make sure the doublers are on the side of the ribs as shown in the photo and on the right wing plan.

but

the doublers to the correct side of the ribs.

retract landing gear rib doublers

and

W4, W5

3. Prepare a set of

use the photo above

andW6exactly

right

wing ribs by using

W6R

to the die-cut 3/32"balsa

left

as shown in the

wing ribs the same way

to make sure you glue

Drill 5/32"holes and cut slots at the locations suggested in the sketch in both sets of ribs W2, W3 and W4 for the retract air lines and

servo cords. Make the slots large enough connectors on the ends of your servo cords will

pass through. wing, drill 3/16 through W14 in the approximate location shown in the sketch. tube sharpened at one end cuts very clean holes.

6. Use a ballpoint pen to extend the die-cut wheel well cutout in both W3 ribs. Cut partway through the rib along the line easier to remove later.

Beech Fact:

announced his all new, revolutionary, single

engine entry in the postwar market. He named

the Bonanza, descriptive of an extra value

offered in the way of economy, performance and pleasure to the owner.

you will be installing lights in the

holes through wing ribs W3

Hint:

An appropriate size brass

Extend lines

well cutout

the cutout will be

In 1946 Walter H. Beech

the

Perform steps7through9only if you are installing fixed landing gear,

Fit the ribs and spar web to the bottom spar

the ribs accurately align with the plan.

BEVEL THE NOTCHES IN THE

RIBS AND SPARS TO MATCH THE ANGLE ON THE PLANS

Prepare a set of

minute epoxy to glue the die-cut

fixed landing gear rib doublers and

W6G

to the die-cut

andW6exactly

right

wing ribs by using

1/8"

balsa

W4G, W5G

ribs

3/32

30-

plywood

W4, W5

as shown in the photo. Make sure the doublers are on the side of the ribs as shown in the photo.

Prepare a set of

use the photo above

but

left

wing ribs the same way

to make sure you glue

the doublers to the correct side of the ribs.

Remove the shaded area of balsa shown the previous two photos after the epoxy fully cured.

Note:

Details for fixed landing gear are shown or

the

left

wing plan.

11.

mark a vertical line the spar notches in both hobby knife to

straightedge and a ballpoint pen to

Use

1/16

from the front and back of

lightly

cut halfway through the balsa

ribs.

along the lines. You will remove this section of balsa to accommodate the spar joiners when it is time to join the wing.

BUILD THE OUTER WING PANELS

For clarity, some of the photos show the wing off

the building board without the plan, but of course you should build your wing over the plan the same as we do.

right

Build the matches the photos.

1/4"x3/8"x36

location on the plan the dashed line by about through the spar at an angle

interfere with the spar web when you position it in

the next step.

wing panel first soyour progress

not use any glue until step

balsa

bottom spar

the root end extends past

1/8".

Use a sharp

Pin a

over its

Stick the pins

they will not

ORIGINAL NOTCHES

Test fit the die-cut

1/8"

balsa

aft inner spar

10.

you will be installing lights in the wing, drill

3/16

holes through wing ribs W3through

W14

the approximate location shown in the sketch on

page

step

21.

Test

fit

ribsW2through

spar web

(in

the ribs or in the spar web)sothe

1/8"

balsa

the notches

ribs fit all the way into the spar web.

(W15).

-22-

W14

to the die-cut

necessary, deepen

Test fit the die-cut

(W16)

and the die-cut

(W17)

into the notches of ribs through

118"

1/8"

balsa

aft outer spar

aileron spar

W14.

necessary, bevel the notches in the spars and ribs the same way you did in the previous step.

6. Temporarily remove rib W2from the

assembly.

One at a time, accurately align the jig tabs of all the ribs with the plan and pin them building board. In addition to T

pins, place weights

on top of the ribs and the aft spars to insure that

your

all

the jig tabs are contacting your building board.

Inspect all joints and make sure everything aligns with the plan. The spar web must fully contact the bottom spar. A die

gauge

is supplied in the kit to help you keep the

cut 1/8" plywood

degree

ribs vertical as you glue them.

8. Use medium or thin CAtoglue all the joints. Use the CA sparingly at this stage of construction and do not build up fillets. This will allow you you from gluing the jig tabs to the ribs.

realign parts ifnecessary and keep

will

remind you to reinforce all glue joints later.

10.

spar in the notches of the ribs

Test fit a

spar aligns with rib

1/4"x3/8"x36"balsa upper

W2.

Glue the spar to the ribs

the end of the

and the spar web with thick or medium CA.

Remember, don't use too much glue.

ALIGN THE LE W TH THE TOP

11.

Cut a

to a length of

edge

through

W14sothe top aligns with the tops of the

EACH

RIB

1/4"x36"shaped balsa

29-1/2".

Glue the LE to ribs

leading

ribs (the same as on the stab).

Beech Fact:

some include variations of the stagger several versions of the 18A which is a twin engine, low

wing mono

a light, single engine model named the Musketeer; a sort

Debonaic

of course, several versions of the ever engine

Among other famous Beechcraft models,

plane (distinguishable by its twin rudders);

bare-bones

the

Baron.

straight tail Bonanza called the

T-34

(which is a

US.

Navy trainer); and

wing biplane;

popular twin

SHEET THE TOPOFTHE WlNGPANELS

Use a large sanding block or a bar sander

with 150

spar, aft spars, LE and ribs

grit sandpaper to sand the tops of the top

they all smoothly blend together. Make sure the tops of the aft spars match the tapering angle of the ribs but sand the

ribs lightly

you maintain the designed

airfoil shape.

and replace them

Remove the T-pins from the bottom spar

they are all sticking in from the front. This way you will be able to remove them when the aft top sheet is in position. Remove the T

pins from the aft jig tabs and replace them in every other jig tab board at the same angle Remove the weights from the top of the wing

they all go into the building

(you

know

the

drill).

(if

you

used them).

Place ribW2back onto the assembly. Align

with the dashed line depicting where it contacts

the plan. Use the die

to setW2at the correct angle. Glue it to the

gauge

bottom spar and the spar web. Glue

cut 1/8" plywood

dihedral

to the aft inner spar using the dihedral gauge to set it at the correct angle.

12.

6-1/2" leading edge

wing when you position it on ribs

it in position. Glue

Hint:

the dihedral gauge to make sure

Bevel the endofthe remaining piece of

it matches the LE on the

W4,3and2.Glue

rib

W4A

the side of rib

Glue the LE to ribW2lastsoyou can use

correct angle.

NOTE:

Use a long straightedge along the length of

to insure that it is flat along it's length (from the

LE to the TE).

-23-

W4.

is at the

Note:

you observe that the wing panel remains

flat and all the jig tabs are contacting your building

board when you remove the T the T

pins out of the jig tabs. In this case the

pins, you may leave

weights that will be used to hold the sheeting to the

ribs will be enough to hold the wing flat to your building board.

FORWARD INNER SKIN

FORWARD OUTER SKIN

NOTE GRAIN DIRECTION

-\AFT

SKIN

5. The weights on the aft sheeting will hold your wing flat.

the wing. The the aft skin (in the center of the spar) and the edge of the skin should extend past the leading

edge of the wing by approximately 1/4". The end of the sheet should accurately align with the

glue joint between W4 and W4

sheet should extend past W14 by about 1/16.

Note:

runs

50/50

easier. Glue it to the wing using weights or T

Remove the T-pins from the bottom spar.

Trim the forward

aft

The grain direction of the forward outer skin

parallel to the leading edge

7. Wet the top of the forward outer skin with a mix of alcohol and watersoit will bend

hold it down.

outer

edge of the skin should contact

wing skinsoit fits

A and the

tip

of the wing.

front

root

of the

pins

10.

your workbenchsothey won't leave dents in your beautiful wing sheeting. Turn the wing over and

carefully cut the jig tabs off the ribs.

strong. It is particularly important that the joint between the spar web and both spars are securely glued.

board and cover it with wax paper. Return to step 1 on page 22, and repeat the steps to build the left wing panel.

Start with the matches the photos.

Clean the glue blobs and wood chips

11.

Reinforce all glue joints that don't look

12. Position the

FINISH THE OUTER

left wing plan

on your building

WING

right

wing panelsoyour progress

PANELS

off

Use this photo and the sketch

This photo shows a few weights on top of the wing, but in actuality we used enough weights to fully cover the skins. weights too. T skins are securely bonded to the top spar.

The

stopper

The

the top spar. The ends should extend past W2 and

W14 equally.

wing skin to the wing. We recommend using aliphatic resin because it gives you plenty of time to align the skin and position your weights or T Hold the wing skin in position with magazines or weights made from plastic bags filled with lead shot or to the wing, wing skin indicating the location of the ribs underneath.

glue fully cures.

Trim the aft wing skinsoit fits the wing.

TE should be straight and true and contact the

portion of the jig tabs on ribs W14 and W3.

front

of the sheet should

4. Use your favorite method toglue the

BBs.

If you choose touse T-pins to hold the skin

You

pins in the front ensure that the

lightly

not disturb the wing until the

for

the next few steps

can use magazines for

end

in the center of

aft

pins.

mark lines on the top of the

8. If you haven't already done

more 3/32

forward inner skin.

that fits between ribs W2 and W4 and glue on a third piece cut from leftover 3/32" balsa to rest of the space. Note that the grain direction is parallel to the leading edge between ribs W2 and W4. Trim the sheet to fit the wing. Glue it in position.

remove the T off your building board.

x3x

30" balsa sheets together for the

From that sheet, cut a piece

9. After the glue on all the sheeting is dry,

pins you can reach and lift the wing

so,

glue

fill

two

up the

-24-

ribW2where shown on the plan. The

and wing where shown on the plan. Note that W8A and W9A are perpendicular

Glue a die-cut 3/32" balsa sub-rib

provides additional gluing area when the sheeting is installled. Use the W2A that does not have a notch cut in it for the flap spar.

Glue the die-cut 3/32" balsa

W8A

and

aileron ribs

W9A

and

the aileron spar W17.

W2A

sub

flap ribs

W14A

rib

W2A

to the

Hint:

Temporarily place a leftover plywood between the ribs for perfect alignment.

3. Stick a pin through the wing sheeting in a few places along the space between W8A and W9A, along the space between W2A and W2A, and along the space between W14A and W14. These pin points will indicate where to cut the sheeting to separate the ends of the flap and aileron from each other and the wing.

3/32

4. Cut a shaped 18" balsa between flap ribs W2A and W8A. Test fit, then glue the flap spar in the notches of the flap ribs.

sanding block or your bar sander, sand the

the bottoms of the aft spars and the aileron spar to the contour of the ribs.

Starting with 80-grit sandpaper on a large

remainder of the jig tabs from the ribs and blend

shim

made from 1/16

3-3/16

11/32

flap spar

to fit

APPROXIMATELY

1/32

BEVEL

6. Use a bar sander and 150-grit sandpaper to bevel the trailing edge of the top wing skin will accommodate the bottom skin. While you sand, apply pressure only to the sheeting and use the

set your sander at the correct angle. Donot

ribs bevel the trailing edge to a about 1/32 the edge of your workbench or a platform while you sand.

squared off.

Hint:

sharp edge

Support the TEwith

but leave

Perform steps retractable landing gear.

basswood 1/8". Test fit and glue the rail in position with 30 minute epoxy

sheeting).

plywood with 30 the next step before the epoxy cures.

cut a piece that is 1-1/2" long. Glue this

gear rail brace

bottom of the forward landing gear rail with 30

minute epoxy.

but not the wheel.

clearance holes in the ribs and doublers

cylinder and the strut do not interfere with the ribs.

rib W3 for the wheel cutout and

section of balsa for the wheel.

strut. Place your retract unit on the landing gear

rails in the location shown on the plan (by the way, the wheel by hand to check the operation and make

sure your retract is mounted in the correct

location.

Cut the 1/2"x3/4"x6-3/4" grooved

forward landing gear rail

minute epoxy. Immediately proceed to

8. From a 1/4"x3/8"x24"basswood stick,

Test fit your retract unit with only the strut

10. Cut along the line you started earlier on

11.

oleo scissors

Now is the time toplan your installation

7-13

you

are installing

rail brace

aft landing gear rail

(with the groove facing the top

Test fit, then glue the 1/4"x1/2" x 9

to rib doubler W5R and the

necessary, enlarge the

Mount a wheel to your landing gear

face

to a length of 6

forward).

in position

landing

the air

remove the

Retract the

and make sure everything fits. It will be more

difficult

make corrections after the bottom

sheeting is in place.

12. landing gear. Use the screws included with your landing gear. landing gear for

air line routing. drill or cut holesinthe ribs to guide the air lines.

Drill holes in the rails and mount your

Hint:

Countersink the holes in the

#6x1/2"

13.

Now isaconvenient time to plan your

5/32"brass tube sharpened at one end makes

great drillto cut holes through the ribs.

flat head screws.

you haven't already done

so,

Perform landing gear.

steps

14-16

you

are installing fixed

14.

314"x6-3/4"

in the notches of the ribs and rib doublers with the groove visible, as shown in the photo. At the same time, glue the to rib doubler W4G and the top of the landing gear

rail. The fixed landing gear rail and rib doublers

are shown on the

servo hatch forward rail

Glue it into the notches of ribsW6and

fully cured, drill a

gear rail and the torque block. The center of the

hole should be

W4G. Make sure you hold the drill perpendicular

to the bottom of the landing gear rail.

Use 30-minute epoxy toglue the

grooved hardwood

3/4"x3/4"x1"maple

left

wing plan.

15.

Cut the

16.

After the epoxy on the landing gear has

1/4x1/2"

31/6"hole through the landing

3/32"from the plywood rib doubler

landing gear rail

to a length of3-

1/2"

torque block

plywood

flap

1/16".

W7.

18.

Cut three 3-

from the

rails

same stick you used for the landing gear rail support if you are building retracts). Glue the rails in the notches of the ribs where shown on the plan.

19.

from the shaped ends of the hinge blocks glue them in the location shown on the plan.

the cross section

know the position of the blocks.

froma1/2"x1/2"

long hinge block from the

stick. The long hinge block is the one closest to the

root end of the aileron and is the

aileron control horn.

Cut three

20.

Cut five 1"

1/16"long

1/4"x3/8"x24"basswood stick (the

1-1/2"

5/8"

on the wing plan to be sure you

long

servo hatch cover

long

flap hinge blocks

balsa stock. Bevel the

they fit the ribs, then

aileron hinge blocks

balsa stick. Cut one

5/8"x1/2"x6"balsa

base

See

2-7/8"

for the

17. off the two paper tube strips along the dashed lines. Roll They are used to allow easy routing of the servo wires and their extensions. For fixed gear the tubes go from R2toR9. retract installation, the wires can easily be fished through the small holes in

Optional:

these strips and cut them tothe lengths needed.

From the right side of the plan cut

For retracts they go fromR7to

R4, R5

and

R6.

R9.

For

21. blocks plan. Bevel the

the aileron

Glue the hinge blocks in the wing and aileron.

Bevel the ends ofall the aileron hinge

they fit against the ribs as shown on the

tops

of the hinge blocks that fit in

they match the angle of the ribs.

22.

to sand the sheeting, spars and

Use a bar sander and 80-grit sandpaper

flush with root rib

23.

Mark the locations of the aileron hinge

and tip rib

slots on the outer wing TE and the aileron

W14.

so they are

LE,

so you will know where to cut the hinge slots after the wing and aileron are sheeted. Mark the location of the flap hinge blocks the same way.

24.

Return to step1on page24and finish the

left wing panel.

BUILD

Position the center section wing plan (which is

attached

THE CENTER SECTION

the right wing plan) over your building

board and cover the plan with wax paper.

Use thick or mediumCAto glue two die-cut

118"

plywood

bolt plate rib doubler

118"

cut

dowel rib doublers

W1D

and one

to the sides of the die-

balsa ribs W1as shown on the plan. Pay careful attention to which sides of the ribs the doublers are glued.

Glue two sets of

bolt plates

doubler leading edge

together to make two

Glue the

(W21)

1/8"

die-cut plywood

to the die-cut

(W21A)

die-cut plywood

114"

plates.

leading edge

1/8"

plywood

the

bottoms

wing

center

of the

notches

top and bottom edges will be offset

align.

W21A

is narrower than

Test fit the wing bolt plate in the notches of

W21

1/16".

so the

the ribs where shown on the plans. Adjust the

notches

necessary so the bolt plates fit.

Remove the balsa from bothW1ribs between

the notches of the dowel doublers.

With a straightedge and a ballpoint pen mark

two vertical lines

spar notches on the

that have only the

1/16

ahead of and behind the

outside

W1P

of both of theW1ribs,

doublers glued to them. Use a sharp hobby knife to cut halfway through the balsa along the lines. This section of balsa will be removed to accommodate the spar joiners when it is time to join the wing.

Cut

one

11"

spar

and one

long piece for the

9-1/4"

long piece for the

-27-

bottom center

top center

spar

from a

only the ends

1/4x3/8"x24

of the

your building board over its location on the plan.

basswood stick. Pin

bottom center spar to

not stick the T-pins through the basswood spar but insert them in a crossed fashion over the spar to

hold it to your building board.

Now

for

the

fun

part.

. .

Fit the ribs onto the die-cut

center spar web

W19.

Make sure the ribs go all

1/8"

plywood

the way down in the center spar web. Deepen the

notches (in the ribs or the spar web)

necessary.

Fit the assembly onto the bottom spar.

10.

Join the die-cut

W20,

the center leading edge assembly

W21A),

the

1/8"

plywood

aft center spar

(W21

and

top spar, and the wing bolt plates to

the ribs. Make sure the ribs align with the plan.

11.

Pin small blocks of leftover balsa to the plan

next to the

ribs, aligning them over the plan, and place weights on top of the ribs and spars to hold the jig tabs to the building board. Use a small square to make sure the

12.

Use medium or thinCAto glue all joints

excepting the top spar.

and do not build up large fillets. This

will make it easier

assembly. You will be reminded

ribs are vertical.

Do not use large amounts

join other parts to the

reinforce all glue

joints later.

13.

Remove the top spar. Glue it back in place.

SHEET THE TOP CENTER SECTION

Sand the top of the leading edge, spars and

ribs

they blend together. You may remove the center section from your building board necessary, but pin it back down after you're done sanding.

Make sure the center section accurately aligns with the plan. balsa blocks to the building board near the fronts of the ribs.

Use

two

one

and one

Trim the forward skin the center of the top spar and the front extends past the necessary, wet the top of the forward top skin first, before gluing it to the center section of the wing.

You're an expert at sheeting now,

easy.

5. forward skin and the aft edge extends past the ends of the ribs skin approximately

3/32

forward top center section wing skin

11"

Sand the sheetssothey are flat and smooth.

by approximately

Trim the aft skin sothe front edge joins the

it extends past the

necessary, pin two more

"x3

"x30

balsa sheets to make

aft top center section wing skin.

the aft edge aligns with

1/8".

you find it

this should

1/2".

Trim the ends of the aft top

1/16

to allow for sanding later.

ribs by

Glue the aft skin tothe center section.

After the glue dries, remove the center section

from the plan. Trim, then sand the bottom spar and

the top sheeting flush with the end ribs.

sand off the tabs on the ends of the aft spar

They will key into ribsW2and align the outer

panels with the center section.

Remove the jig tabs and sand the bottoms of the ribs and spars the trailing edge of the top sheeting the same way

you did for the outer panels.

Drill section Slightly round one end of both

dowels.

center section with 30

strong. dihedral braces will be fitted.

(W21A)

Test fit, then glue the wing dowels into the

10.

Reinforce all glue joints that don't look

Beech Fact:

designated Model Bonanza. Although Walter Beech did experiment with

tail for military purposes, he thought that the

the V conservative military would prefer the conventional straight tail which

named the

PREPARE THE

they all blend together. Bevel

1/8"

1/4"

HOLES

1/4"

holes through the LEof the center

where shown on the sketch.

1/4"x2-1/2"

minute epoxy.

not build up any glue fillets where the

The T-34 evolved from the Beech

which began as a converted A35

what emerged for the final design.

Mentor.

BOTTOM

W21

THE

not

W20.

wing

WING FOR SHEETING

you are installing retracts, build a partition on both wing panels from leftover seal the wing aft of the wheel well compartment. Fuelproof the nooks and crannies of the wheel well inside the wing that you will not be able to reach after the bottom sheeting is in place. You can see the partitions in the following photo.

3/32

balsa

-28-

Remember where you cut

ribs

behind the spar notches? Use a hobby knife or a

fine razor saw

within the area you cut.

between the spars on the right side of the

section

braces braces

chamfer the corners of the braces to accommodate small glue fillets in the wing. you fit the braces right side up the same as the dihedral of wing.

on both wing panels

on the right wing panel and remove the balsa

the same way.

Test fit the die-cut

W23

W22

cut the rest of the way through rib

Cut away the portion of balsa on rib

and the die-cut

in the outer wing panel. Ifnecessary

1/16

1/8"

partway

1/16

plywood

Note:

through

ahead of and

center

dihedral dihedral

Make certain

5. right wing panel with the dihedral braces to make sure everything fits. Make adjustments where needed panel. Separate the wing sections and remove the dihedral braces.

Read the following five steps before you actually use any glue can gather the items

Spread a film everywhere it contacts the dihedral braces. Spread a film of epoxy on the braces

section

right wing panel.

rjght side

Temporarily join the center section to the

the center section fully contacts the right

you understand the procedure and

you

will need.

Mix a batch of

45-

epoxy in the outer wing panel

or 30-minute epoxy.

1/8"

and

1/16

ply dihedral

except where they will contact the center

wing panel. Fit the dihedral braces into the

Make certain you fit the braces

up.

wax paper between the dihedral braces where they protrude from the right panel, then insert a piece of

1/8"

Clamp the outer

inner

paper towel to wipe away all excess epoxy

not interfere with the center section when it is time

to join it to the right wing panel.

1/16

braces in the left wing panel.

Insert two approximately

balsa between the two pieces of wax paper.

1/8

10.

Use small balsa sticks and small pieces of

11.

dihedral braces.

12.

Returntostep2and glue the dihedral

1/16

ply dihedral braces.

After the epoxy cures, glue

ply dihedral braces to the

2"x2"

pieces of

it will

the

14.

Cut holes and slots in the

of the center section

servo cords and retract air lines in the

outer panels. Cut the holes slightly oversize just in case they don't align perfectly.

We've temporarily joined the wing panels and installed the air lines and servo cords in the right wing panel to mock an idea of how to route them later. If you wish, you could test your installation now to make sure your setup will work.

up the installation to give

Wl's

match the holes for the

on the ends

W2's

of the

you

Remove excess epoxy from the parts of the

dihedral braces that will contact the

center

section.

joining the center section to the right wing panel. Clamp the dihedral braces

only.

away excess epoxy with a paper towel.

Set the dihedral braces by

to the right wing panel

Carefully remove the center section and wipe

temporarily

13.

you're installing retracts, glue leftover

1/4"

balsa to the front of the forward landing gear rail and between the rails to support the sheeting. Use a ballpoint pen or a pencil (not a felt tip pen) to trace the outline of the landing gear onto the rails you glue on the bottom sheeting. Later, the sheeting over this area will be removed accommodate the landing gear mounts.

you know where

not

apply glue when

3/16

-29-

15.

Glue a piece of leftover center section sheeting aft of the spar (note the grain direction). Cut a sheeting at this location for the servo cords and air

exit the wing into the fuse.

lines

3/32

3/4"

hole through the

balsa to the

16.Ifyou will be adding the optional lighting kit, route the wiring through the holes you drilled in the ribs. The red

green purchased the strobe lights in addition to the Top

Flite Lighting Kit, route those wires too. Cut a hole in the center section sheeting ahead of the main

spar for the wires and connectors

17. Separate the wing panels and remove the

servo cords and air lines but leave the tip light

wires in both outer wing panels.

18. Sand the bottom of the outer wing panels

with a bar sander and 150

spars, landing gear and servo rails blend to the shape of the ribs.

light

cover

goes in the left tip, and the

goes in the right tip.Ifyou have

exit the wing.

grit sandpaper sothe

cradles. Apply one drop of thick or medium CA near the front and rear of each cradle and tack glue them

locations. You only need enough glue to hold the cradles to the wing turn it upside down.

Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa

the top wing sheeting in their proper

they won't fall off when you

feet

to the

8. Use the remainder of the 3/32

balsa sheet you used for the forward

to make a forward inner bottom skin. Test fit, then

glue the skin to the wing panel.

After the glue dries remove any T-pins you may have used and take the weights off the wing panel. Trim all the sheeting and root ribs and the leading and trailing edges of the wing.

10.Ifyou are installing fixed landing gear, use the plans as a guide to poke holes through the wing skin with a pin until you locate the groove in the landing gear rail. Remove a strip of balsa from the groove just long enough to accept the landing gear wire. Use the mark holes in the sheeting for the #2 Drill 1/16 landing gear to the wing with the straps and screws as shown on the plan. Remove the landing gear.

Note:

balsa skin

basswood landing rail.

holes at the marks and Test fit the

The nylon straps should be inset into the

that they are secured to the

nylon straps

inner

it is even with the tip

as a template to

x 30

top skin

3/8" screws.

Sheet the bottomofthe

1.Ifyou have not already done forward and aft bottom wing skins the same way you made the top wing skins on page 21.

2. Use a ballpoint pen to mark the top sheeting over ribs and trailing edges.

3. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" balsa

W14C, W9C and W4C

aligning them with the marks you made. Sand away any slivers or slight die until the cradles match the contour of the wing.

W14,

wing

panels

so,

make the

andW4at the leading

wing cradles

on the top of the wing,

cutting irregularities

resting on the cradles. Trim the

cradles

aligns with the trailing edge of the top sheeting and the front edge of the sheeting the spar (the same way as the top sheeting).

glue dries.

because this may bow the wing.

skin to the wing panel. Just the same as the top

forward outer skin, the wood grain should be

parallel to the

Place the wing on your workbench

stoppers

the trailing edge of the bottom sheeting

ends

at the center of

6. Glue the aft bottom skin to the wing. Use

pins or weights to hold the skin in place until the

Caution:

7. Test fit, trim, then glue the forward

not add too much weight

leading edge

of the wing panel.

on the

outer

11. Set the right wing panel aside and sheet the

bottom

the left wing panel the same way.

Beech

Fact:

including the 400A/400T Beechjet (their production turbo fan, purchased from Mitsubishi in

1986

fuel capacity); and a few turboprops including the

Model

1900C; and of course, the Model 2000/2000A featuring a canard front wing, pusher turboprop engines and composite construction.

Beech also manufactures jet aircraft

and fitted with a new Beech interior and larger

1300

Airliner, Model

1900D

only

and the Model

Starship

Perform these steps only if you are installing retracts.

CUT

OUT

THE WHEEL WELLS

enough sheeting to mount the landing gear to the rails.

Start by cutting and removing just

BUILD THE WING TIPS

Cut the molded clear plastic

along the cutlines. If you are installing the

lens

optional lighting kit, drill holes in the die

balsa

tip lens rib

pass through.

Align with lens are flush with the wing sheeting. Glue W14 in this position.

for the lighting wires to

right wing tip

the edges of the

cut

4. Read the note below and roughly carve the wing tip block to fit the wing tip. Glue it to the wing tip and sand it to the final shape. When you near the final shape the wing tip and shape the tip block to match the

lens. To avoid scratching the lens with your sandpaper, cover it with masking tape.

the tip block, tape the tip lens to

curved

Bottom

2. Retract the gear to the wing and draw a

rough outline of the wheel onto the sheeting. Cut

the sheeting within the outline. Retract the wheel

again and draw a more accurate outline. Cut the sheeting until the wheel fully retracts into the

wheel well, leaving at least

between the wheel and the sheeting (in case you

tweak

your landing gear on oneofthose

bumpy landings).

clearance

Top of wing

WT1 to the aft edge of WT14 Position the 1 1/2"

21/8x

trace the outline of the wing onto the block.

Glue the die-cut 1/8 balsa

balsa wing tip block on the wing tip and

aft lens rib

Note:

The same width as the trailing edge of the wing and does not taper. This means that the shape tip block

concave appearance. your work frequently as you final shape.

shown on the cross section on the wing plan and blend it to the wing tip lens.

trailing edge

changes

where it is

curved.

Shape the leading edgeofthe wing as

of the tip block isthe

from the TE where it is

This gives the wing tip a

Proceed slowly

and inspect

zero-in

the

flat

on the

Perform this step only if

tip lighting.

you are installing wing

BUILD

Skip this section if you are not building flaps.

THE

FLAPS

Use the templates make the balsa. Drill a small hole th braces that hold the lenses they paint the pieces. Glue the as shown on the plan. Paini wing tip lens to match the color chosen. On our prototype we white. Tape the wing tip lens the lights while you work on t

reflector bracket

snap

in. Do not fit the

on the wing plan to

rough the part

in your lighting kit lenses until after you

brackets

everything inside the

to the wing to protect

he rest of the wing.

from leftover 1/16

scheme you have

painted the insides

the wing tip

the

1. Use a fine razor saw to cut only the

the flap from the wing along the holes you poked

in the top sheeting.

REMOVE

ends

CUT THE TOP SHEETING

IN THIS AREA

Use a razor saw to cut through the ribs and

top sheeting as shown in the sketch.

FLAP SPAR

BOTTOM SHEETING

Returntostep1on page 31and build the

wing tip on the left wing panel plan.

on the bottom of the wing as shown in the sketch.

Remove the 3/8 strip of sheeting from the bottom. This will expose the ribs them to separate the flap from the wing.

Useaballpoint pen tolightly mark the flap

you know where to cut

TOP

SHEETING

D4.

Trim the TE of the wing in the flap area and

of the flap as shown in the sketch.

the dowel wrapped with 150-grit sandpaper can be used to round

out

the rib stubs.

Cut a hole in the inner wingTEfor the flap horn at the location shown on the plan. The hole should be

biased

toward the top of the wing.

6. Place the flap over the plan and mark the location of the die do not glue the flap horn into the flap. flap has a different location for the flap horn make sure you use the correct wing plan for the flap you are working on.

into two pieces that fit on both sides of the flap horn. Cut a 1/16 accommodate the flap horn. Glue the LE to the flap

glue

of thick or medium CA. Sand the ends of the flap

the top and bottom of the flap LE flush with the top and bottom of the flap.

Cut the 5/8"x1-318"

the top edge is flush with the top of the flap.

Remove the flap horn.

the short flap LEtothe flap with

they are even with the ends of the flap. Sand

cut 1/16"ply

flap horn.

Note:

18"

balsa

notch in the longer LE to

Temporarily tack

a few drops

Fit but

Each

flap

from the plan. Glue them to the ends of the flap

Cut the flap

with rubber cement or spray adhesive. Use the templates as a guide razor plane or a hobby carving knife followed by a bar sander.

10. Drill a 1/16"hole through the punch mark in the front of the flap horn for the clevis. Add a few drops of thin CA to the hole. After the CA hardens redrill the hole. Remove the flap LE you tack glued on. Insert the flap horn into the flap and securely glue it in place. Permanently glue the flap LE to the flap.

root and tip end templates

shape the flap LE with a

-33-

11.

hinge drill guides

shown. tubing (3/16" your drill even better.

Assemble the die-cut 1/8" plywood

by gluing the pieces together as

Optional:

I.D.)

to the hinge drill guides to guide

Glue a piece of 7/32"brass

flap

---

12. Position the the wing over each hinge block (you marked them before you sheeted the bottom of the wing) and drill 3/16

holes for the Hinge Points.

using a drill bit, use a piece of 3/16 sharpened at one end to drill holes with clean edges.

13. Insert three #309 Robart Super Hinge

Points into the holes in the wing but do not glue them in. Fit the flap to the wing and mark the

locations of the hinge points on the flap.

wing

flap hinge drill guide on

Hint:

Instead of

brass tube

14. Use the

in the flap the same way you did for the wing.

flap

hinge drill guide to drill holes

BUILD THE AILERONS

1. If you have built flaps remove them from the right wing panel. Use a razor saw to separate the aileron from the wing by cutting between the LE

of the aileron and the TE of the wing. Refer to the plans to find the location of this gap and poke a pin through the sheeting to verify you have found the gap. Use the razor saw to cut the ends of the

aileron from the wing along the holes you poked in

the top sheeting.

6. Replace the flap onto the wing. Adjust the

root of the aileron and the tip of the flap approximately a 3/32" gap between them.

there is

15.

hinge point that fits into the flap. Test fit the flaps to the wing with the hinge points. Adjust the position (depth) of the hinges until the flap aligns with the

wing the same way it was before you cut it loose.

Make adjustments until the flap fits the wing and freely moves about its range of motion. Strive for a good fit where the top of the flap meets the top of the wing.

other flap to the wing the same way.

Cut 1/4" off the end of the outermost

16. Return to step 1 page 32 and mount the

2. Sand the sheeting and the rib stubs on the

wing even with the 3/32" balsa to the wing tip rib. Sand it to the shape of the wing.

3. Sand the sheeting and the rib stubs on the

aileron even with the LE and the tips. Glue the

cut

1/8"

die the front of the aileron. Sand the leading edge flush with the ends and top and bottom of the aileron sheeting.

to mark a centerline on the wing TE and the aileron

LE. Cut the hinge slots where shown on the plan. Test fit the aileron to the wing with the hinges. Adjust any hinge slots and wing align. Sand the tip of the aileron is about a 1 /16" gap between the end of the aileron and the wing tip.

"Vusing the centerline as a guide. The bevel must permit the full amount of aileron throw as specified on page 68, plus a bit extra to prevent servo binding.

balsa

4. Use the Straightedge and T

Bevel the leading edge of the aileron to a

TE.

Glue a piece of leftover

aileron leading edge

pin technique

necessarysothe aileron

(W17A)

there

Return to the first step and build the aileron

on the left wing panel the same way.

MOUNT THE FLAP AND AILERON

SERVOS

1. Cut the openings in the bottom of the wing

sheeting for the die

flap servo hatch covers

Start by cutting a smaller opening at the location indicated on the plan. Carefully enlarge the hatch openings using a fresh #11 blade and a straightedge until the hatch covers fit.

zero-in on the final shape of the hatch openings,

use the hatch covers themselves as a template to cut the openings.

2. Drill 1/16" holes through the punch marks in the servo hatch covers. Place the hatch covers on the rails in the hatches and drill 1/16" holes through the hatch covers into the rails.

cut

1/16

plywood

(if

you're building flaps).

aileron and

Hint:

you

only with a

the

other pointed tool. Test fit the hatch covers to the rails with the screws. hatch covers and sand the sides of the hatch covers Note: Though the hatch covers are the wing sheeting is 3/32 sand the wing sheeting smooth it will be the same height as the hatch covers. hatch covers by placing thin shims made from

1/64plywood or thin cardstock on top of the rails.

3/4"x7/8" servo mount blocks to the servo hatch covers as shown on the plan.

Note: You can increase the strength of this joint by drilling a few shallow 1/16

mount blocks. This will create epoxy pins that

extend into the blocks.

Enlarge the holes i n the hatch covers

3/32

x 3 / 8 flat head screws with a countersink or

4. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the 5/16

drill bit. Countersink the holes for

necessary, remove the

they align with the edges of the hatch.

1/16

thick, by the time you

not, you can raise the

holes into the servo

thick and

6. Returntothe first step and mount the flap and

aileron servos in the other wing panel.

7. Glue leftover 1/16"balsa sheeting to the

inside of the bottom sheeting around the wheel well cutout with the grain direction opposite that of the wing sheeting. This will reinforce the sheeting

around the wheel well cutout.

8. Brush another coat of fuelproof paint inside the wheel wells while they are still easy to reach with a paint brush.

JOIN THE WING PANELS

Remove the flaps. Test fit both outer panels to the center section. Make small adjustments necessary to minimize any gaps you see. Test your clamps to make sure you have enough of them and to make sure you know where you are going to place the clamps when you actually glue the wing together.

2. Optional: The dihedral braces and the preset angle of the root ribs on the outer panels will determine the dihedral in the wing. But

to check the dihedral before you permanently glue the wings together, clamp the wing together, raise

the center section off your workbench with balsa sticks of equal size the clamps) and measure the height of both wing tips. The height of bottom of the spar at tip rib W14) should be 3 (not including the balsa sticks).Ifthe measured dihedral of both wing tips is within a range of 3-3/8" to 3-3/4", the dihedral is okay.

3. Mix a batch of 45 or 30-minute epoxytojoin the wing panels to the center section. Apply epoxy to all the mating surfaces of the end ribs, spars and dihedral braces. the wing tip lighting, pull the wires through the root ribs

you can route them into the center section. Join the outer panels to the center section and position your clamps. Wipe away excess epoxy with a paper towel before it cures and do not disturb the wing until the epoxy cures.

(so

the wing is not resting on

both

tips (measured under the

you have installed the wires for

MAKE THE FLAP AND AILERON

PUSHRODS

fit

you wish

9/16

Mount

your

screws included with your servos. Test fit the servo

servos to the blocks with

hatches in the wing and screw them down with the hatch cover screws.

'k,,u

BALSA

STICKS

3-9/16

Cut a 1/8" deep notch in the aileron for the

die

cut 1/8" plywood aileron where shown on the plan. Glue the horn mounting plate to the aileron and sand it to match the leading edge.

horn

mounting

plate

2. Make the aileron pushrods from a

.074" x

and

threaded end rod

solder clevis.

for the solder clevis. Drill 1/16 horn mounting plate and add a few drops of thin CA to the holes and allow to harden. Mount a

control horn

screws and hook up the servo with the pushrod.

We recommend silver solder

to the aileron with two #2x3/8"

with a

nylon clevis

holes in the aileron

5. Connect the other aileron and flap pushrod the same way. Make final adjustments to the lengths of the pushrods when you set up your radio.

This is as far as we cangowith the wing until it is fitted to the fuse. But first, we need a fuse,

so..

build the

fuse!

BUILD

THE

FUSELAGE

PREPARATION

Note:

The die-cut 1/8" plywood formers are

stamped with only the necessaly portion of their

name. For example,

die

cut parts are 1/8" plywood unless they are

otherwise noted.

1. Position the bottom view of the fuselage plan

over your flat building board. Cover it with wax paper. You may cut the bottom view from the rest of the plan.

F-2B

is stamped

28.

All

3. Drill 1/16"holes through the punch marks in

F2D

andF2that are closest to the bottom of the formers. Glue F2D to the front of F2 with the holes aligned. After the glue dries, drill 5/16 through the punch marks. 5/16

drill bit you can start with a 1/4" hole and enlarge it to approximately 5/16 or a round wood file. These holes do not have to be

exactly

5/16"or perfectly round.

4.Ifyou're installing retracts, drill 1/8" holes

through the punch marks in the bottom of

air tank dowels and through the punch marks in F2

for the pull/pull nose steering cable guide tubes.

5. Drill 3/16"holes through the punch marks in

cut 1/8" plywood formers F6through

the die When you drill the holes press down on each former to prevent the wood from splitting when the drill bit goes through.

TYPICAL HOLES AND SLOTS

FOR

AIR TUBES AND WIRES

you do not have a

with a hobby knife

holes

for the

Fll.

3. Thread another nylon clevis onto the end of

.074

another the wire to the length shown on the wing plan for the

right

flap servo arms with a hobby knife (or a #48 drill for

perfection) and connect the flap pushrod to the servo arm using a nylon servo arm to the hatch cover (with the flap servo and pushrod connected) over the flap hatch and guide the pushrod out of the hole in the TE.

4. Temporarily connect the clevis to the flap horn to see correct length.

4"threaded end rod. Bend and cut

flap pushrod. Enlarge the holes in your

FasLink".

down

position and set the flap

the pushrod is approximately the

Rotate the flap

Use 30-minute epoxy to glue two die-cut 1/8"

plywood

F1DT

only one is used). Clamp the assemblies table or board or lay weights on them with wax

paper underneath. Inspect the parts closely before the epoxy cures to make sure they remain aligned. Wipe away excess epoxy before it cures. From

now on the F1B assembly will be referred to as the

FlB's

(there are two F1

firewall.

together and

DT's

F1T

to the front of

included in the kit but

a flat

FOR

SLOT

1/8"

AIR

TUBE HOLE

6.Ifyou plan to install the Top Flite Beechcraft Bonanza Scale Interior Kit drill holes and cut slots in the formers for routing the air lines and servo wires between the fuse sides and the cockpit interior in formers F3, F4 and F5.

SERVO WIRES

Top Flite A0305 INSTRUCTION BOOK Part 1

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual